68 files changed, 12990 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/36084-0.txt b/36084-0.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c6caa00
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-0.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,5862 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cities of the Dawn, by J. Ewing Ritchie
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Cities of the Dawn
+
+
+Author: J. Ewing Ritchie
+
+
+
+Release Date: May 11, 2011  [eBook #36084]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1897 T. Fisher Unwin edition by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+                             [Picture: Cover]
+
+                   [Picture: Dawn on the Great Sphinx]
+
+
+
+
+
+                                   THE
+                           CITIES OF THE DAWN:
+
+
+                 _NAPLES—ATHENS—POMPEII—CONSTANTINOPLE—_
+                   _SMYRNA—JAFFA—JERUSALEM—ALEXANDRIA—_
+                       _CAIRO—MARSEILLES—AVIGNON—_
+                              _LYONS—DIJON_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                    BY
+                             J. EWING RITCHIE
+                         (‘CHRISTOPHER CRAYON’),
+       AUTHOR OF ‘CRYING FOR THE LIGHT,’ ‘EAST ANGLIA,’ ETC., ETC.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+    ‘Ye glittering towns with wealth and splendour crown’d;
+    Ye fields where summer spreads profusion round;
+    Ye lakes whose vessels catch the busy gale;
+    Ye bending swains that dress the flowery vale;
+    For me your tributary stores combine;
+    Creation’s heir, the world—the world is mine.’
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                     _WITH THIRTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS_
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 LONDON:
+                             T. FISHER UNWIN,
+                           PATERNOSTER SQUARE.
+                      NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS.
+                                  1897.
+
+                                    To
+                         F. W. WARMINGTON, ESQ.,
+                     TO WHOSE PRACTICAL PHILANTHROPY
+                  MANY OF THE YOUNG PEOPLE OF BOTH SEXES
+                  ARE INDEBTED FOR HAPPY HOLIDAY-TIMES,
+                                THIS BOOK
+                        IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
+                                    BY
+                                THE AUTHOR
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In this new publication, consisting chiefly of articles which appeared in
+the _Christian World_, the _Echo_, and the _East Anglian Daily Times_,
+the author makes no pretence to original information, or to have acted
+the part of an antiquarian explorer.  He has simply gone over ground
+familiar to many, and to which all holiday-makers will turn in increasing
+numbers, partly for pleasure, and partly on account of the absorbing
+interest attaching to the route here briefly described.  To such he
+offers his services as guide, philosopher and friend, trusting also that
+many who stay at home may be interested in the story here told.
+
+With regard to the illustrations, the author acknowledges the kindness of
+Dr. Lunn and Messrs. Cassell in allowing him the use of them, and
+especially is grateful to Miss Pollard, the daughter of the author of
+that valuable work, ‘The Land of the Monuments,’ for permission to use
+her sketch ‘Dawn on the Great Sphinx,’ which he has utilized for his
+frontispiece.
+
+CLACTON-ON-SEA.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+CHAPTER                                              PAGE
+         I.  A RUN ACROSS FRANCE                        1
+        II.  OFF TO NAPLES                              7
+       III.  NAPLES OF TO-DAY                          13
+        IV.  POMPEII AND VESUVIUS                      23
+         V.  THE ISLES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN            33
+        VI.  ABOUT ATHENS                              41
+       VII.  CONSTANTINOPLE                            54
+      VIII.  SMYRNA                                    71
+        IX.  JAFFA TO JERUSALEM                        77
+         X.  THE HOLY CITY                             84
+        XI.  BETHLEHEM                                103
+       XII.  THE JEW IN JERUSALEM                     110
+      XIII.  ALEXANDRIA                               124
+       XIV.  IN CAIRO                                 135
+        XV.  THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX              153
+       XVI.  THE RIVER NILE                           164
+      XVII.  THE RETURN TO MARSEILLES                 172
+     XVIII.  AVIGNON                                  186
+       XIX.  THE GREAT CITY OF LYONS                  194
+        XX.  DIJON, OR THE WINE COUNTRY               206
+       XXI.  BOOKS OF REFERENCE                       214
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                                          PAGE
+DAWN ON THE GREAT SPHINX                                        _Frontispiece_
+TWO-BERTH CABIN, ‘MIDNIGHT SUN’                                              4
+THE BAY OF NAPLES                                                           19
+TEMPLE OF VENUS, POMPEII                                                    27
+THE CORINTH CANAL                                                           38
+TEMPLE OF VICTORY                                                           47
+THE PARTHENON                                                               49
+A BUSY STREET IN CONSTANTINOPLE                                             56
+A MOSQUE ON THE BOSPHORUS                                                   58
+THE QUAY, CONSTANTINOPLE                                                    60
+GALATA BRIDGE, CONSTANTINOPLE                                               65
+AN OLD STREET, CONSTANTINOPLE                                               67
+THE GATE OF PERSECUTION, NEAR EPHESUS                                       73
+JERUSALEM: VIA DOLOROSA AND PONTIUS PILATE’S HOUSE                          79
+VIEW FROM ST. STEPHEN’S GATE, WITH RUSSIAN CHURCH AND                       81
+GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE
+GENERAL VIEW OF JERUSALEM FROM THE CONVENT OF THE SISTERS                   93
+OF ZION
+THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE                                            95
+BETHLEHEM                                                                  105
+POMPEY’S PILLAR, ALEXANDRIA                                                126
+GENERAL VIEW OF CAIRO                                                      136
+A STREET IN CAIRO                                                          137
+TOMB OF THE CALIPHS OF CAIRO                                               139
+DONKEY-BOY, CAIRO                                                          142
+COLOSSAL STATUE OF RAMESES II.                                             154
+PYRAMID AND SPHINX                                                         156
+THE GREAT SPHINX                                                           157
+A TOURIST STEAMER—COOK’S NILE FLOTILLA                                     169
+THE NEW HARBOUR, MARSEILLES                                                173
+MARSEILLES                                                                 175
+THE CASTLE OF THE POPES, AVIGNON                                           189
+THE PLACE BELLECOUR, LYONS                                                 197
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+A RUN ACROSS FRANCE.
+
+To leave London one day and to arrive in Marseilles the next would have
+been deemed impossible—the dream of a madman—in the age in which I was
+born, when steamships and railways were unknown.  Yet it is a fact, to
+the truth of which I can testify.  Half a century has elapsed since the
+fair fields, leafy woodlands, and breezy chalk downs of Kent were invaded
+by a band of navvies, who, under the skilful direction of the late Sir
+William Cubitt, built up the main line of the South-Eastern Railway.  The
+next thing was to connect France and Europe, which was done by means of
+steamers running between Calais and Dover, and thence by rail to all the
+chief Continental cities and health resorts.
+
+I leave London by the Continental express at eight in the morning one
+cold day in October; in eight hours I am in Paris, passing Calais and
+Abbeville, both of which places, especially the former, are, I believe,
+pretty well known in these days of universal restlessness and travel.  It
+is little we see of Paris, the gay and beautiful.  We have to dine—for
+man must dine, if possible, once a day—and to Paris we turn for its cooks
+and cookery.  It is there that the art of dining is carried to
+perfection.  ‘Unquiet meals make ill digestions.’  There is no fear of
+that as I sit down to my well-prepared repast at the handsome buffet
+attached to the French Northern Railway, and yet there my troubles begin.
+As a barbarous Englander, I ask why in Paris, the centre, as it deems
+itself, of civilization and refinement, I am compelled to help myself to
+salt by putting my knife into the saltcellar.  Then, again, it seems
+curious to me, and what I am not accustomed to, to eat my fish without a
+fitting knife and fork.  Surely one may expect to find in Paris the
+refinement one is accustomed to in one’s native land!  As to being
+cheated with one’s eyes open, one does not complain—you expect it, and it
+is not worth while losing your temper merely for the sake of a few paltry
+centimes; and yet I felt that I had been done unfairly when, on asking a
+waiter for a cup of coffee _noir_, and giving him an English shilling,
+and particularly calling his attention to the value of the coin, he
+coolly treats it as a franc, and gives me change accordingly.  That was
+rather a dear cup of coffee, I calculate; but, then, the fault was mine,
+and mine alone.  I ought to have provided myself with French money before
+I started.
+
+I am going on what Dr. Lunn calls an educational tour on the Continent.
+It seems to me I shall get a good deal of education of some kind or other
+before I return to my native land again.  There are about 112 on board
+from London and the provinces.  As we are bound for Jerusalem, we have,
+as was to be expected, a large proportion of the clerical element.
+Ladies are not so numerous as one would expect from what one knows of the
+curiosity and fondness for adventure of lovely woman.  The worst part of
+the trip is the long, wearying ride from Paris to Marseilles, where we
+found peace and plenty on board the _Midnight Sun_.  We saw but little of
+the country on leaving Paris; but when we reached Lyons, where we were
+refreshed with delicious coffee and bread-and-butter, and were provided
+with a handsome lunch, to be eaten in the course of our journey,
+consisting of a bottle of claret, beef and fowl, bread-and-butter, and
+cheese and fruit—a handsome meal, to which we all did justice—the day
+broke on us clear and fine.
+
+But I pause to make another little grumble.  In barbarous England the
+lunch would have been neatly packed away in a basket specially provided
+for the purpose, and a knife and fork would have been included.  On the
+Lyons railway a brown paper bag was deemed all that was necessary, and
+instead of a knife and fork we had to use our fingers.  As there was no
+convenience for washing—at any rate, as regards second-class passengers,
+_quorum pars fui_; I recommend the traveller to go first-class on such a
+long ride—you can imagine our disgusting state.  It seems to me that the
+rule that they do things better in France is one to which there are
+several exceptions.  But in some respects France beats us.  It will be
+hard to find anywhere in England a prettier ride than that we enjoyed
+from Lyons to Marseilles.  The white houses, with their green blinds and
+red tiles, nestling in and among the trees, always make a French
+landscape bright and gay.  Their great industrial and manufacturing
+centres also always [Picture: Two-berth cabin, ‘Midnight Sun’] look
+cleaner and less forbidding in their dreariness than ours at home; and if
+the little narrow plots you see suggest peasant farming, rather than the
+high and costly farming patronized at home, you feel that the peasant of
+gay and sunny France—for such France undoubtedly is—has a happier lot
+than with us.  But as you travel you have no time to think of such
+things.  It is all one can do to watch the fairy panorama of rock and
+river, of waving woods and smiling plains, as you glide by.  At all times
+the Loire is a grand river, but to-day it is flooded, and seems to be
+made up of lakes and seas, in which struggle haystacks, farmhouses,
+barns, the everlasting poplars, and, what is worse, the poor man’s
+garden, and I think, in one or two cases that met my pitying eye, his
+vinefields as well.
+
+One word before I have done with the _Midnight Sun_.  ‘In the new
+yachting,’ writes Sir Morell Mackenzie, ‘there is no unpleasantness as to
+the change of places to be visited, nor are carefully-arranged plans to
+be disarranged at the last moment by the thoughtlessness or unpunctuality
+of friends.  You have the pleasure of companionship, without any of the
+responsibilities of a host or the obligations of a guest.  You can enjoy
+the sea and the air charged with ozone, which is the champagne of the
+lungs, and free from any taint of animal or vegetable corruption, just as
+freely as if you were an Alexander Selkirk on a floating island; and you
+have many comforts which cannot be had even on the largest and
+best-appointed yachts.’  Such were the results of the great physician’s
+experience on board one of the fine excursion steamers of the Orient
+line.  ‘I felt,’ he writes, ‘like Faust after his great transformation
+scene from age to youth.’
+
+I am not on an Orient steamer, but I am on the _Midnight Sun_, and to
+that Sir Morell Mackenzie’s testimony is equally applicable.  The
+_Midnight Sun_ is a grand steamer of 3,178 tons, and she was especially
+fitted out for yachting purposes.  She may be said to be the best of the
+class.  For instance, take the sleeping cabins.  They contain no upper
+sleeping berths—a boon most acceptable to passengers who have had to pass
+many nights, as I have done, in cabins overcrowded with passengers and
+luggage.  An idea of the magnificent proportions of the _Midnight Sun_
+may be gathered from the fact that seven times round her deck is equal to
+one mile.  The upper deck forms a promenade over the entire length of the
+ship, with uninterrupted views on either side.  She has been engaged by
+Dr. Lunn for his co-operative educational cruises, which become more
+popular every year.  I note especially the smoking-room on the upper
+deck, capable of accommodating nearly 100 persons.  There is a crew of
+110 on board for the purpose of ensuring our safety and supplying our
+comforts and wants.  Truly, if one cannot enjoy himself on such a trip,
+and with such a company of gentlemen and ladies as Dr. Lunn succeeds in
+drawing around him, he must be hard to please.  Dr. Lunn, who is not on
+board, is in himself a host, and so is his popular brother, who supplies
+his place.  We are now approaching Corsica.  I will spare you my feelings
+as I gaze on the land that gave birth to a Napoleon Bonaparte, and that
+sheltered Seneca in his dreary exile, but which in modern times Lady
+Burdett Coutts finds to be a very beneficial health resort.  They are all
+that should inspire the virtuous emotions of a true-born Englishman.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+OFF TO NAPLES.
+
+I left off my last letter opposite Corsica.  Since then—and this is the
+charm of coming to Naples in the _Midnight Sun_—we have passed quite a
+cluster of isles more or less renowned in history—such as Caprera, the
+rocky home of the great Italian, Garibaldi—of which, alas! we see
+nothing.  In old times Caprera derived its name from the wild goats, its
+original inhabitants.  Later on it was colonized by monks.  ‘The whole
+island,’ says a contemporary writer quoted by Gibbon, ‘is filled, or,
+rather, defiled by men, who fly from the light.  They call themselves
+monks, or solitaries, because they choose to live alone, without any
+witnesses of their actions.  They fear the gifts of fortune from the
+apprehension of losing them, and, lest they should be miserable, they
+embrace a life of voluntary wretchedness.’  Elba, however, is visible,
+which the wiseacres whom Providence, for mysterious reasons of its own,
+at one time permitted to rule over European affairs, fixed on as the
+residence of the Corsican adventurer, in the childish belief that he who
+had aimed almost at universal empire, and had in vain attempted to
+grapple with and overthrow the pride and power of England, would be
+content to remain on that puny isle, within a hop, step and jump of
+France, as it were, and almost within speaking distance of the legions
+whom he had led to glory.  Then we sailed past Monte Cristo, the scene of
+Dumas’ celebrated romance of that name.  Mostly, at a distance, the isles
+look bare of life and vegetation, rocks rising out of the blue waves; and
+yet we know it to be otherwise.  At best, however, they must be poor
+places to live in, far from the great battle of life, and out of touch
+with human progress.  We pass Sardinia, but see little of it.  This is
+Sunday, and to-day the Church clergy, who are numerous, seem to have had
+a good innings.  Unfortunately, I came into collision with one of them.
+As I entered the smoking-room after breakfast, I saw there had been held
+there an early Communion, and the implements utilized on such occasions
+were lying about.  In a light and flippant tone I asked whether this was
+High Church or Low Church or Broad Church.  A little oily parson, who was
+apparently guarding the vessels, angrily exclaimed, ‘Sir, it is the
+_Church_!’  ‘Thank you,’ I said; ‘I only wanted to know.  To me it is a
+matter of indifference.’  ‘That was very naughty of you,’ said a mild,
+gentlemanly young man at my side.  Let everyone worship God, or what he
+takes to be God, as best he may.  I scorn not the savage who bows down to
+idols of wood and stone.  To him they represent a Divine presence and
+power.  I claim a similar liberty for the High Churchman, who sees sacred
+emblems in vessels of human device to be bought in the shops, or wrought
+by devout females; but let him give me the same freedom, and not denounce
+me as little better than one of the wicked, as void of Christian faith,
+because I turn from man’s devices to cry out of the aching heart to the
+living God, if haply I may find Him.
+
+But I am digressing; for the fact is that I always see more of
+sacerdotalism afloat than I do on land.  We are getting on pleasantly as
+regards social companionship.  It was very cold in the train to Dover,
+and I felt inclined to take rather a gloomy view of the situation.  It
+was worse on board the Dover and Calais packet, where the whole of the
+deck was set apart for first-class passengers, while we unfortunate
+second-class men were sent down below to see what we could out of the
+cabin windows.  But once in the French second-class carriages, really
+much nicer than our own, reserve was broken, the tongue began to wag, and
+all went merry as a marriage-bell.  I was much pleased with my
+neighbour—a Yorkshireman, I think, who had brought with him a bag of new
+farthings to be utilized for backsheesh.  He offered me some, but I
+refused.  At my time of life I should not like to be caught by a wild
+Arab of the desert to whom I had offered a new farthing for the familiar
+sovereign, the use of which is known from China to Peru.  The pompous
+elderly first-class passenger amuses me.  He has got his English paper,
+and he carries it with him everywhere, in spite of the fact that its news
+is some days old.  One of my fellow-passengers had bought himself at
+Marseilles a small footstool to keep his feet dry—a needless precaution,
+as all the seats are built with a view to protect the passengers from the
+damp of the decks, always rather moist after the early morning scrub and
+scour.  The daily bath is in much request.  The young Englishman must
+have his morning bath—a favourable sign, if it be true that cleanliness
+is next to godliness.  We are rather a miscellaneous lot—there are
+Scotchmen, whose sweet Doric I fail to understand, and Cockneys, who
+ignore the letter _h_; but some of the ladies are charming, and that is
+saying a good deal.
+
+Long before we reach Naples the awnings are put up and we rejoice in all
+the warmth of an English summer; and never did the far-famed bay look
+more beautiful, and the towns and castles and convents that line the
+cliffs in every direction for miles look more bright.  The usual babel of
+sounds reigned in the bay as singers and divers and dealers in fruit and
+other articles of Neapolitan production were clamorous to sell them.  The
+worst feature of the Neapolitan petty dealer is that he is too anxious to
+kill the goose that lays the golden eggs.  I know of many English who
+stay in Rome merely because the people deal fairer with the stranger
+within its gates.  It is quite otherwise in Naples.  The native pays
+fourpence for his two pounds of bread; the Englishman always has to pay
+fivepence.  It is in vain you go to another baker.  For a week he will
+charge you fourpence, and then he raises his price.  One peculiarity of
+the Naples tradesman is that men of the same trade always stick together;
+and he does not spread out his business like the English shopkeeper of
+to-day.  For instance, if he is a baker he does not deal in pastry, and
+the pastrycook does not interfere with him.  But away from the trading
+classes the poverty of the people is really awful.  You see men very
+lightly dressed sleeping on the broad pavement at all hours; and yet they
+adore their King, and are now building him a grand new monument just in
+front of the Royal Palace.  Naples still needs better drainage; and the
+substitution of current money in gold or silver for its copper coinage
+would be a great improvement.  Personally, this time I had no reason to
+find fault with the people.  I found an honest boatman who rowed me to
+the ship for half a franc.
+
+The one redeeming point in Naples is the untiring efforts of the
+Protestant ministers of all denominations—Church, Baptist, Presbyterian,
+and Wesleyan, the latter especially active and doing a good work in the
+way of schools.  I called in at the Sailors’ Rest, an awful climb to get
+to, but a real rest when you get there.  The present missionary is Mr.
+Burrowes, and his wife, the latter a genuine Scotchwoman of the better
+sort.  They deal in the institution and on board ships with other
+peoples, with other religions and political opinions, and the result is
+very satisfactory.  The number of destitute persons who have been
+relieved is as large as ever.  Seamen are relieved and weaned from drink.
+Almost every evening there is something going on bright and cheerful at
+the Rest.  The Sunday evening services have been found especially useful.
+After the evening service of a Sunday a large number of men stop to sing
+their favourite hymns, and the number of interesting temperance and
+religious works circulated is very large.  The English colporteur, Mr.
+Copley, has given away 1,000 copies of the New Testament during the year,
+and he is aided by a band of foreign colporteurs quite as active as
+himself.  It is work that ought to be more liberally supported by
+Christians at home.  The good it does is great; its needs are pressing.
+I hope I may not appeal for the Sailors’ Home of Rest at Naples in vain.
+During the year 1895, 176 persons stayed in the Home, including those
+sent there by the British and foreign consuls, passing travellers from
+ships.  Many stayed only one night, such as seamen from warships.  About
+140 persons got free teas, not including the relief given to destitute
+people.  It is a pity that such a real good work should languish for want
+of popular support amongst the wealthy English residents at Naples and at
+home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+NAPLES OF TO-DAY.
+
+Once more I am in Naples, with its houses rising one over another, in
+front of me, and Vesuvius looking down on me, and across the loveliest
+bay the world has yet seen.  There is little to see in Naples beyond its
+museum, which no one should omit to visit, and Pompeii, to which you are
+conveyed by train, where you come face to face with ancient civilization
+and ancient life.  For the traveller the city is rich in hotels, and at
+one of them—the Hôtel Vesuve, a magnificent structure with stately
+halls—I once spent a happy week.  I had come with money enough to defray
+my two days’ expenses; but, to my horror, I had to stay longer than I
+intended, and you may judge of my delight when the manager, who knew me,
+at the end of the week refused a penny for my board and daily food.  I
+wish I could speak as well of the shopkeepers, who fleece you as much as
+possible, and are prone to give you bad money for good.
+
+The people are industrious, and mostly very poor; but they don’t drink,
+and content themselves with water and a slice of lemon—always on sale in
+the streets.  They are devout Roman Catholics, but, nevertheless, an
+official said to me, ‘Morality is unknown here.’  I met with a man from
+Newcastle, an engineer, who employs a thousand people here, and gave them
+an excellent character.  ‘Do you employ any English?’ I asked.  ‘Not
+one,’ was his reply; ‘they drink too much and are too troublesome.’
+Taxes are awful and Custom dues ditto.  I landed here once with
+twenty-five cigars, a present from one of the gentlemanly captains of the
+Orient line.  I could have put them in my pocket, and no one would have
+been any wiser.  I thought, however, ‘Italy is a poor country, and I
+might as well contribute my mite towards its exhausted exchequer.’  My
+confidence was misplaced; for those cigars I had to pay a duty—incredible
+as it may seem—of three shillings and ninepence!  Only fancy!
+
+What I like best in Naples are its tram-cars, which are cheap, and the
+attendants are civil.  Riding and driving seem to be the principal
+amusements of the people, especially on a Sunday, when the poor horses
+have to rattle along with tremendous loads, which makes one regret that
+in this part of the world there seems to be no society for the prevention
+of cruelty to animals.  Pope Pius IX. did not think one required.
+Artistic manufactures seem to constitute the staple trade.  In every
+hotel there are fine marble busts for sale.  Vesuvius supplies abundant
+lava, which is utilized in a thousand forms.  On many a housetop you may
+see the macaroni spread out to dry, and in many a street you may watch
+through the windows the tortoiseshell manufacturers at work.  To the city
+there appears to be no end, as it stretches away to the right and left,
+and climbs up the hills on which it is built.  It boasts two Gothic
+cathedrals, and numerous churches, and many public buildings of a
+handsome order.  Little of female loveliness, however, is to be seen in
+the streets—not half so much as in Oxford Street at home any day in the
+week.  Miss Cobbe writes: ‘Naples struck me on my first visit—as it has
+done again and again—as presenting the proof that the Beautiful is not by
+itself the root out of which the Good spontaneously grows.’  I quite
+agree with Miss Cobbe.
+
+In the wide and sunny expanse of blue waters that surrounds Naples there
+is much to be seen.  Rocky Capri lies just opposite—the home of artists
+and English residents.  In the bay on our left are Baiæ and Puteoli, the
+latter the port at which St. Paul landed on his way as a prisoner to Rome
+to appeal to Cæsar.  Baiæ was the Brighton of ancient Rome; the remains
+of its temples and baths are scattered freely among the fig-trees and
+olives of the peasant.  Emperors dwelt there.  There Cæsar sought
+retirement, and the warm springs on the side are yet called by his name.
+Behind, Virgil placed the entrance of Avernus, and not far off is his
+reputed tomb.  Between Baiæ and Puteoli was the Lucrine Lake, over which
+coloured sails wafted the small yachts of fashionable visitors, and which
+contained the oyster-beds for the luxurious tables of Rome.  Vitellius
+the beastly, as Gibbon calls him, seems to have been the greatest
+oyster-eater in the ancient world.  He is said to have eaten oysters all
+day long and to have swallowed a thousand at a sitting.  There are no
+oysters in the Lucrine Lake now, for the simple reason that an earthquake
+long ago destroyed the lake.  All that now remains of that famous fishery
+is a small and shallow stream, which is separated from the sea by a
+narrow strip of sand.  Further north is Misenum, where Æneas came to
+land; where the navy of old Rome rode secure; from whence Pliny sailed
+away to get a nearer view of the celebrated eruption of Vesuvius, and
+where he met with his death by the ashes discharged from the burning
+mountain.  On the other side of the bay lie Sorrento and other charming
+spots.  It was here the Greeks sent colonists.  The Greeks were the
+colonizing people of antiquity, as much as the English are colonizing
+people of to-day.  It is pleasant of a night to stand on the deck of the
+steamer to see the gas-lamps on the shore glittering like glow-worms or
+fireflies all along the romantic coast.
+
+If possible, the tourist should find time to have a look at Pæstum.  In
+his diary Rogers the poet thus describes his visit: ‘Country green and
+level.  The temples in a plain shut in on three sides by the mountains,
+on the fourth open to the sea; and the sea itself half shut in them by
+the promontory of Sorrentum, within which are the Isles of the Sirens.  A
+magnificent theatre, worthy of such objects: the columns almost
+bare—broken and of an iron-brown, like iron rust; the floor green with
+moss and herbage; the columns and cornices of the richest tints, and
+climbed by the green lizards that fly into a thousand chinks and crevices
+at your approach; fluted fragments of columns and moulded cornices among
+briars strew the middle space between the temple and the basilica.’  Let
+me add, the temples are all in the same Doric style.  Poseidonia, as its
+inhabitants, the Greek colonists, called it, was founded in the seventh
+century B.C., and, as the name imports, was specially sacred to Poseidon,
+or Neptune.  The principal temple, which was probably that of Neptune,
+was that of the sea god.
+
+Let me remind my readers that in the English burial-place at Naples was
+laid one of the very greatest and best of Englishwomen—the late Mrs.
+Somerville—where a marble monument has been placed over her grave by her
+daughter.  It represents her, heroic size, reclining on a classic chair,
+in somewhat the attitude of the statue of Agrippa in the Vatican.  It is
+a shame that she was not buried in Westminster Abbey.  When asked, Dean
+Stanley assented, as was to be expected, freely to the proposal.  Mrs.
+Somerville’s nephew, Sir William Fraser, promised at once to defray all
+expenses.  There was only one thing further needed, and that was the
+usual formal request from some public body or official persons to the
+Dean and Chapter of Westminster.  Dean Stanley immediately wrote to the
+Astronomer Royal and the President of the Royal Society, as
+representative of the science with which Mrs. Somerville was immediately
+connected, to ask him to authorize the Dean proceeding in the matter.
+But that gentleman refused to do so on the ground that he had never read
+Mrs. Somerville’s books.  ‘Whether he had read,’ writes Miss Cobbe,
+commenting indignantly on the above, ‘one in which she took the opposite
+side from his in the bitter Adam Le Verrier controversy, it is not for me
+to say.’  Any way, jealousy, either scientific or masculine, declined to
+admit Mrs. Somerville’s claim to a place in our national Walhalla, where
+so many men neither intellectually nor morally her equal have been
+received.
+
+In one respect Naples has improved since I was here last.  The drainage
+has been rendered better, and the fearful odours that met you at every
+turn have disappeared.  The poor are indolent, dirty, thriftless, and
+ill-housed; but that does not much matter, as most of their lives are
+passed in the open air.  The convents are suppressed, the schoolmaster is
+abroad, and they may grow better as the years roll by, and Italy, as a
+nation, once more becomes great and renowned.  But a good deal has yet to
+be done.  I heard of things to be seen in Naples of the most disgraceful
+and disgusting character.  At the dawn of the Reformation Naples took the
+lead among the Italian cities in the adoption of its principles.  Then
+came a bitter persecution, and the triumphs of the Pope and the
+Inquisition.  As the result, Naples has been given up for years to the
+most abject superstition, and its people have become the most ignorant
+and demoralized in Europe.  But the city is full of life—far more so than
+is to be found in any other Italian city.  Such talking, shouting, and
+rushing to and fro can hardly be found anywhere else.  Nowhere is there
+more life than is to be seen on the Toledo.  One of the quaintest objects
+is that of the letter-writer, seated at his desk in the open air, with
+his clients waiting to have their letters written—some of business, some
+of love.  The cab-driver is better than he looks, and it is not difficult
+to get along with him.  But you must be on your guard with waiters.  More
+than once one has come to me with a bad franc, which he pretended I had
+given him; but I turned a deaf ear to his complaint, and [Picture: The
+Bay of Naples.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co., Reigate.)] left him
+to do the best he could with his spurious coin.
+
+If you want to visit Vesuvius, apply at Cook’s offices, where you will
+find everything arranged for you in the most agreeable manner, and no
+difficulty of any kind.  His funicular railway is one of the wonders of
+the place.  The ascent of the cone requires two hours’ hard walking in
+deep ashes and on hard rubble lava—an undertaking not very pleasant for
+people affected with delicate hearts and constitutions, or bordering on
+old age.  Get into one of Cook’s railway cars, and you are up in a few
+minutes.  At the lower station there is an excellent restaurant belonging
+to the wonderful John Cook, whose headquarters are the Piazzi del
+Martini.  I dined once at his restaurant at the foot of the cone, and it
+is one of the few dinners in my life to which I look back with pleasure.
+I had a friend with me, of course.  It is never pleasant to travel—at any
+rate, in a foreign country—alone.  We had a good rumpsteak and French
+beans, an omelette, and a bottle of the wine whose praises were sung by
+Horace when the world was much younger and fresher than it is now.  After
+dinner we sat on the terrace, drinking black coffee and smoking cigars.
+Of course, as an Englishman, it gave me pleasure to reflect that our
+beautiful Princess of Wales had been there before me in 1893, with
+Victoria of Wales, the Duke of York, and a distinguished suite.  As I sat
+smoking, it seemed to me as if I was monarch of all I surveyed.  Naples
+was at my feet, far away behind was the green Campagna, with but here and
+there a solitary dwelling, and before me, in all its glory, the bay and
+its islands.  If old Sam Rogers had gone up there to write his ‘Italy,’ I
+think he would have done better than he did—at any rate, I was never so
+near heaven before; and this reminds me that I have said nothing of the
+means of grace available to English Protestants when they come to Naples.
+There is an English Church in the San Pasquale à Chiagia, a Scotch
+Presbyterian opposite Cook’s offices, and a Methodist.
+
+There are many ways of getting to Naples.  I came this time overland by
+Paris and Marseilles, and thence, as I have said, by the _Midnight Sun_.
+If the weather is fine, and the Bay of Biscay in good form, I prefer to
+come by the Orient steamers right away from London.  You have then no
+trouble till you land in Naples.  We leave Black Care behind as we slip
+out of English fog and cold into the region of cloudless skies and starry
+nights.  We smoke, or read, or feed, or walk the deck, or talk in the
+pleasantest manner.  Perhaps we get a glimpse of Finisterre.  Heroic
+memories come to us as we pass the seas where the _Captain_ was lost—it
+is to be feared in consequence of defective seamanship.  All along the
+coast and on those faraway hills the noise of battle rolled, and not in
+vain, for the struggle that ended in Waterloo placed England in the first
+rank among the nations of the earth.
+
+As soon as we cross the bay we think of Corunna and Sir John Moore.  Afar
+off are the memorable heights of Torres Vedras.  Cape St. Vincent, a
+bluff sixty feet high, with a convent and a lighthouse, reminds one of
+the brilliant victory won by Sir John Jervis, with Nelson and Collingwood
+fighting under him; and in a little while we are at Trafalgar, to which
+sailors still look as the greatest sea-fight in the history of our land,
+and as the one that saved the nation; and then you spend a day at
+Gibraltar.  A Yankee friend once said to me, ‘I must go back to America.
+I can’t stay any longer in Europe; I shall get too conceited if I do.’
+I, too, feel conceited as I skirt along that romantic coast, which you
+sight in a few hours after leaving Plymouth.  Englishmen are always
+grumbling.  There is no country like England; and an Englishman who is
+not proud of his native land, and ready to make every sacrifice for her,
+ought to be shot, and would be if I had my way.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+POMPEII AND VESUVIUS.
+
+It is needless to write that no one can go to Naples without paying a
+visit to Pompeii, if he would get a true idea of a Roman city, with its
+streets, and shops, and baths, and forum, and temples; and it is as well
+to read over Bulwer’s ‘Last Days of Pompeii’—that master work of genius,
+compared with which our present popular novels are poor indeed—and then
+let the reader spend an entire day, if he can, among the Pompeiian
+remains, in the museum at Naples, which Garibaldi, when Dictator of
+Naples, handed over to the people.  Pompeii is easy of access by the
+railway, which lands you at the very spot, after a short but pleasant
+trip.  Much can be accomplished there and back for a little more than
+three francs.  On Sundays Pompeii can be visited for nothing; on other
+days the charge is one franc, and when you have paid the guide the franc,
+I think you will agree with me that in no other part of the world can you
+see so much that is truly wonderful at so small an expense.  Close to the
+gate are a hotel—the Hôtel du Diomede—and a restaurant, at either of
+which you can get all the refreshments you require; and if it is too hot
+to walk—and in the summer months Pompeii is a very hot place indeed—there
+are chairs in the grounds in which you can be carried all round and see
+all that is to be seen at very little personal fatigue.
+
+Pompeii is spread out in an elliptical form on the brow of a hill, and
+extends over a space of nearly two miles.  On one side of you is
+Vesuvius, and on the other the blue waters of the bay.  One of the towns
+through which you pass in the train is Portici, the ancient Herculaneum;
+as it is, you are lost in wonder at the awful extent of the catastrophe
+which turned all this smiling land into a scene of desolation and death,
+and which, at any rate, led to the extinction of one philosophic
+career—that of the elder Pliny, a real victim to the pursuit of knowledge
+under difficulties.  At the time of its visitation, Pompeii is reputed to
+have had a population of about 26,000.
+
+Imagination fails to realize the agony of the hour as the swift, black,
+sulphurous death came down on all—the patrician in his marble halls, the
+tradesman in his shop, the miser at his desk, the devotees who cried to
+their gods for safety in vain, the slave, the freedman, the aged, to whom
+life had nothing to give, the tender, the beautiful, the young, to whom
+life seemed an exhaustless dream of joy.  As in the days of the flood,
+there was marrying and giving in marriage.  Here the baker had fled, and
+left his loaves in his oven; there was an eating-house, in which were
+found raisins, olives, and fish cooked in oil.  There stands the tavern,
+indicated by the sign of the chequers, while the amphoræ of wines are
+still marked with the year of the vintage.  An election was going on at
+the time of the catastrophe, and appeals to the free and independent are
+still preserved.  In one place a schoolboy has scratched his Greek
+alphabet.  In his sentry-box a sentinel was discovered, a grisly skeleton
+clasping his rusty sword.  And the streets tell a piteous tale.  In one a
+young man and woman had fallen together; in another part a lady was
+discovered attempting to flee with a bag of gold, and then there was seen
+the skeleton of a mother with her children, whom she was vainly seeking
+to save.  In the house of Diomede, or, rather, in a vaulted cellar
+underneath, eighteen bodies were found of men and women who had evidently
+fled there for shelter.  The probable proprietor of the house was found
+near the garden door, with the key in his hand, while beside him was a
+slave with valuables.  It is evident that the city was a scene of vice
+and dissipation.  Some of the inscriptions are too indecent to reproduce.
+I know not whether for this it becomes us to point the finger of scorn,
+we who read ‘Don Juan,’ who revel in Fielding, who reverence Dean Swift,
+who know what goes on in Paris and London by night, when respectability
+has gone to bed and Exeter Hall is shut up.
+
+Let me turn to the streets—they are very narrow—and to the houses, which
+strike me as generally very small.  In that grand climate the people must
+have mostly lived in the open air.  One of the most elegant houses is
+that of the Tragic Poet.  On the threshold was a dog in mosaic, with the
+inscription ‘Cave canem’—now in the museum at Naples.  I was much
+interested in the public baths, or thermæ, which indicate with how much
+care the ancient Romans attended to cleanliness and health.  They must
+have been on a somewhat extensive scale.  A passage leads to the chamber
+for undressing.  Beyond this is the cold bath.  Thence we make our way to
+the warm bath, or tepidarium.  The baths also possessed an extensive
+colonnade, now converted into a garden, besides several other chambers
+and baths for women, none of which are now open to the public.  But we
+see wonders everywhere, in spite of the fact that all that is best in
+Pompeii has been moved to the museum at Naples, where remains one of the
+finest of the Pompeiian mosaics—that representing a battle between Darius
+and Alexander, which no one who wishes to have a competent idea of
+ancient art should avoid going to see.  Let me add that no visitor should
+go to Pompeii without having first got a clear idea of what he is going
+to see.  The guides are but poor helps, as mostly they speak nothing but
+Italian.  Further, let me say that if you have at Naples only the day
+allowed by the Orient Company, while waiting for the overland mails,
+which generally reach Naples in a little over two days and nights after
+leaving London, your best plan is to get hold of Cook’s agent, who
+reaches the ship in a boat with a flag bearing the well-known name.  He
+will take you off, drive you straight to Pompeii, give you time to ‘do’
+the place and to get a good lunch there, and bring you back in time to
+the ship to pursue the even tenor of your way to Egypt, or Ceylon, or
+Australia, as the case may be.  If you have time, pursue your studies by
+a day in the museum, or more if you can.  It is there you can realize
+best, as you study the grand statues of great men and women and gods and
+goddesses, the Diana of Ephesus being one of them—statues in which the
+
+       ‘Majesty of human passion
+    Is to the life expressed’—
+
+ [Picture: Temple of Venus, Pompeii.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and
+                                 Young.)]
+
+what men the world’s masters were.  Nero has a shocking head; Caligula
+looks an empty-headed fop; but I gazed admiringly on the grand features
+of my guide, philosopher, and friend—Marcus Aurelius.  And I thought of
+Voltaire, as I stood opposite the noble statue of Julius Cæsar, on your
+left just as you enter the museum.  Voltaire tells us men may be divided
+into two classes—hammers and anvils.  Julius Cæsar evidently belonged to
+the former class.  It was there, too, I saw a Venus, radiant in innocence
+and beauty and sweetness and grace, as if new ‘bathed in Paphian
+foam’—the only Venus I ever could have loved.  But I had no guide-book,
+and the day was hot, and all the attendants were fast asleep.
+
+Let me add a caution: Never change money if you can help it.  You are
+sure to get a bad franc if you do.  At Pompeii the guide tried it on with
+me.  Again, while waiting for the train at Pompeii, I was tempted to have
+a deal with a pedlar, who asked me ten francs for souvenirs, which I
+subsequently bought, after a good deal of haggling, for five.
+Unfortunately, I had only a ten-franc note, and he had to give me
+change—not in coppers, as they generally do in Naples, where silver is
+scarce, but in francs; and one of them was bad, as I found out when I
+went to the museum next day.  To my disgust, the civil gentleman who
+takes the money kindly cut it in two.
+
+‘I will call for you at a quarter-past seven,’ said Cook’s agent to me,
+as he left the _Ormuz_.
+
+‘Come at that hour,’ I replied; ‘I will be ready.’
+
+Alas! man proposes—often in vain.  I went to bed early.  I had made
+arrangements for an early meal.  I had agreed to see that a
+fellow-passenger who was to come should be ready; but I could not
+sleep—the heat in the bay was too great, the odour of the tide-less
+waters seemed to possess my soul, and as I lay awake all the chronic
+diseases by which I am borne down reasserted themselves, and I didn’t get
+a wink of sleep till just as it was time to get up.  I have an early
+breakfast, and yet there is no sign of Cook’s agent.  In due time I see
+him, and my friend and I and Cook’s agent are rowed on shore, and we
+drive to Cook’s headquarters.  There we are put into a carriage drawn by
+three horses, and away we go along the crowded streets.  What a display
+we have on every side of the unwashed, as they sit at the shop doors, or
+at the corners of the long narrow alleys in which most of them live!
+There are naked children, hideous old women, and very unlovely young
+ones.  A fat priest passes with his beaver hat and black robes, and a
+young woman rushes at him and kisses his hand.  The priest and the
+militaire are to be seen everywhere.  No wonder the country is poor.
+
+As we proceed the ground begins to rise, and we see pleasant villas with
+decent gardens.  As we rise so does the dust; for mostly we are shut in
+between two walls, over which we see the vine hang heavily, or apricots
+glitter among the green branches on either side.  Here and there is a
+break in the wall, and, seated at rustic tables, peasants and their
+families are enjoying a holiday, looking under their vine arbours across
+the blue bay or pleasant Capri, or glancing upward at the smoking
+mountain above.  At one of these wayside publics our driver stops to
+water horses, which are useful animals, and, in spite of the heat, never
+turn a hair.  We enter the principal room, at one end of which is a big
+bed, while nearer the door is a table with wine and glasses, and fruit,
+and specimens of lava and other matters.  My friend, with the
+recklessness of youth, spends his money.  I refuse to do anything of the
+kind; and again our coachman urges on his wild career.  He pulls up again
+as a woman rushes out of her cabin to offer us drink.  Again we are
+tempted, and in vain.  Then we reach a level of reeds and rushes, where
+resides a venerable and unwashed hermit, who sighs as he turns in and
+thinks of the hardness of our hearts.  We are now nearly out of the
+cultivated land, as we see the gigantic fields of lava on every side;
+where it can all have come from is a mystery.  You can scarcely realize
+how all this lava—stretched on every hand, far and wide—can ever have
+come out of that crater.  There seems more lava than you could get into
+the mountain itself; and how terrible must have been the scene when the
+red-hot lava rushed down the mountain-side, overwhelming green vines, and
+square-roofed huts, and living animals, and smiling babes, and weak and
+helpless old age!  As it cooled, it seems to have wreathed itself into a
+thousand fantastic shapes—and yet the scene is fair and tranquil.  A
+small wreath of smoke at the top only suggests a feeble fire within, and
+down far below the blue Mediterranean sleeps, and gay Naples sparkles,
+and the great Campagna opens up its vast green solitudes, save where,
+here and there, a white-stoned villa varies its monotony.  Around me
+animal life exists not.  The yellow birch blooms in her golden beauty,
+that is all, and the common white butterfly of England has the upper airs
+all to herself.
+
+As we reach the observatory—an oasis in the desert—we meet a couple of
+sportsmen; they have a gun between them, though why I cannot understand,
+as I see nothing to shoot at but lizards, and so we are drawn slowly on
+the dusty road, which zigzags in the most wonderful manner every few
+yards.  We enter through a gateway which, I presume, marks the bounds of
+the Cook territory, as one of his agents takes a look at our tickets.
+With joy our brown-faced coachman points us to a white, flat-roofed
+building, which he declares truly is the hotel, where he intimates we can
+have lunch, and where he intimates he can do the same if we will supply
+the cash—which we do, though he had no right to ask it—and weaned and
+parched we enter the grateful portals of the hotel to feast, and to enjoy
+a refreshing breeze, which we should have sought for in Naples in vain.
+As I rested there, I felt no wish to depart either upwards or downwards.
+
+Of course the summer is the bad time for the crater.  In the season Cook
+has his pilgrims, sometimes to the number of 200 a day.  The cars are
+airy and light.  As one goes up, another descends, and thus the work goes
+on under the care of an able German, who caught a fever in Egypt, and has
+been ordered here for the benefit of his health.  The whole country
+should be called Cooksland.  It is there John Cook reigns supreme.  Just
+as I was leaving London a Leicester gentleman said to me: ‘I wonder Mr.
+Gladstone did not make John Cook a baronet.’  ‘The man who does what Mr.
+Cook does, for all travellers, whatever their nationality, surely
+deserves public recognition,’ says a commercial Dutchman to me as I
+write; ‘I am off to Palermo and Catana and Messina.  I have taken Cook’s
+tickets for all the way.’
+
+I found in my subsequent travels every one of us had more or less to
+enjoy the assistance of Cook’s agents.  In many cases travellers derive
+great pecuniary benefit from doing so.  I remember a friend of mine got
+some money changed for him by Cook’s agent on very much cheaper terms
+than he could anywhere else.
+
+Italy is a poor country; yet it displays a sense of humour highly
+creditable under the circumstances.  The site of the Custom House in
+Naples is locally known as the Immaculate.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+THE ISLES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.
+
+Remember, as the great Dr. Johnson remarks, how life consists not of a
+series of illustrious actions or elegant enjoyments; the greater part of
+our time passes in compliance with necessities in the performance of
+daily duties, in the procurement of petty pleasures; and we are well or
+ill at ease as the main stream of life glides on smoothly, or is ruffled
+by small obstacles and frequent interruptions.  This is emphatically true
+as regards life at sea.  But as we steam along we see much to attract and
+excite in the isles of the Mediterranean, that diversify the travel all
+the way from Marseilles to Jaffa.  It is said that there are eighty ports
+in the Mediterranean, and that into all of them Lord Brassey can take his
+yacht without a pilot.  Alas! I am permitted to tarry at none of them.
+
+As we sail out of the Bay of Naples we pass Capri—a rocky island, where
+there is scarce a yard of level ground—dear to Englishmen and artists.
+The highest point of Capri is about 1,960 feet above the sea.  The
+traveller will find there several hotels.  Roman remains abound, and
+Tiberius, the drunken and dissolute, had twelve palaces there.  There he
+was in no fear of unwelcome intrusion, and gave himself up to shameless
+and unnatural lusts; while his worthy lieutenant, Sejanus, carried on a
+series of persecutions against all who stood in any relation to the
+imperial family, or excited the suspicions of the tyrant by freedom of
+speech, independence of character, or position, or popularity.  The
+famous Blue Grotto of Capri is on the northern side, near the landing.
+In the great war with France, Sir Hudson Lowe—the same General who had
+subsequently charge of Bonaparte at St. Helena—had to surrender the
+island to Murat, after a fortnight’s siege, and had the mortification of
+seeing reinforcements arrive just after the treaty was signed.  Leaving
+Capri, the Gulf of Salerno opens; Pæstum, with its temples, lying on the
+southern bight of the gulf.  Then follows the elevated headland of Cape
+Palinure—named after Palinurus, the pilot of Æneas, whose tomb is marked
+by a tower on the cliff some eight miles northward, thus fulfilling the
+Sibyl’s promise in the ‘Æneid,’
+
+    ‘And Palinurus’ name the place shall bear.’
+
+We next get a peep at the now active volcano of Stromboli, and the Lipari
+Islands to the northward.  On these islands, the Insulæ-Eoliæ, also the
+Vulcaniæ of the ancients, Æolus held the winds enclosed in caverns,
+letting them blow and howl as it seemed good in his sight.  There, too,
+Vulcan forged the bolts of Jove.
+
+From Naples we steer for Sicily, once, though only for a short time,
+prosperous under British rule, when we took possession of it in the name
+of the King of Naples, after he was driven away from Italy by the
+soldiers of France.  Garibaldi handed it over to United Italy.  Sicily is
+a country which is almost unknown to tourists, though in his youth Mr.
+Gladstone visited the island and wrote: ‘After Etna, the temples are the
+great charm and attraction of Sicily.  I do not know whether there is any
+one, if taken alone, which exceeds in interest and beauty that of Neptune
+at Pæstum, but they have the advantage of number and variety as well as
+of interesting position.’  We pass Catania, which had the most celebrated
+University in Italy.  The present town is comparatively new; many of its
+more ancient remains are covered with lava; among them the theatre, from
+which it is probable Alcibiades addressed the people in B.C. 415.  What
+memories rose up before us as we steamed along the Straits of Messina!
+It was from Syracuse that St. Paul sailed away to Reggio, on the coast of
+Italy, and all the parsons on board pull out their Testaments and compare
+notes.  I trow I know more of the Greeks, and Romans, and Carthaginians,
+who shed so much blood, and waged so many desolating wars in these now
+peaceful regions.  The town was founded by the Greeks nearly 3,000 years
+ago.  All the nations seem at one time to have held Sicily—Romans,
+Greeks, Moors, Turks, and Normans.  There are some of us who can yet
+remember how Cicero thundered against Verres for his misgovernment of
+Sicily.  It was to Sicily that Æschylus retired to die after Sophocles
+had borne away the prize from him for his tragedy.  The pet of the
+Athenian mob, the gay and graceful Alcibiades, fought against the
+Sicilians in vain.  At that time they must have been a more intelligent
+people than they are now.  Take, for instance, their appreciation of
+Euripides.  Of all the poets, writes old Plutarch, he was the man with
+whom the Sicilians were most in love.  From every stranger that landed in
+their island they gained every small specimen or portion of his works,
+and communicated it with pleasure to each other.  It is said that on one
+occasion a number of Athenians, upon their return home defeated, went to
+Euripides and thanked him for teaching their masters what they remembered
+of his poems; and others were rewarded when they were wandering about
+after the battle, for singing a few of his verses.  Nor is this to be
+wondered at, since they tell us that when a ship from Cannes, which
+happened to be pursued by pirates, was going to take shelter in one of
+their ports, the Sicilians at first refused to receive her.  Upon asking
+the crew whether they knew any of the verses of Euripides, and being
+answered in the affirmative, they released both them and their vessel.
+We are a cultured people.  The Americans, according to their own ideas,
+are yet more so.  Yet it is evident that the Sicilians were far before us
+in their admiration of poetic genius.  Alas! Pompey the Great, as we
+still call him, gave the Sicilians a different lesson when he summoned
+the people of Messina before him, who refused to obey his summons,
+arguing that they stood excused by an ancient privilege granted them by
+the Romans.  His reply was, and it was worthy of the present Emperor of
+Germany, ‘Will you never have done citing laws and privileges to men who
+wear swords?’  Another lesson Sicily teaches us is how much readier the
+world is to remember its oppressors than its benefactors.  We all have a
+vivid impression of Dionysius, the Tyrant of Syracuse, yet how few of us
+are familiar with the fame of Dion the Patriot, who was the pupil of
+Plato when the philosopher dwelt for a time in Syracuse.  It is to the
+credit of the Sicilians that they were a grateful people.  When Timoleon
+died they gave him a public funeral, and instituted games in his honour,
+‘as the man who destroyed tyrants, subdued barbarians, repeopled great
+cities which lay desolate, and restored the Sicilians their laws and
+privileges.’
+
+Gradually we make our way through the Straits, sailing between Scylla and
+Charybdis, which for the modern traveller has no terrors.  Our last view
+of Sicily gives us a fine glimpse of Etna, with the crater into which
+Empedocles threw himself, 400 B.C.  Men are immortalized as much by their
+follies as by their virtues.  As we onward press we get a glimpse of
+Candia, with the snowy peaks of Mount Ida, and Gavodo, or Goro, supposed
+to be the Clauda of St. Paul’s voyage to the westward.  What associations
+rise as we see Cephalonia, Zante, Corfu!—all looking dry and bare in the
+scorching sun.  We manage to make our way, though with some difficulty,
+through the Canal of Corinth, a work which I fear can never pay, as it is
+not large enough for the big steamers which now plough these waters.
+Everywhere islands, or rather rocks, diversify the scene, and every day
+we have more radiant sunsets and sunrises than you can realize in a
+Northern clime.  To sail on this summer sea is indeed a treat.  No wonder
+old Ulysses loved to wander among these isles, and to leave Penelope to
+do her knitting and to look after her maids at home.  I regret that I
+cannot have a peep at Crete and Cyprus, the most famous islands in the
+Mediterranean, and we pass over the far-famed bay of Salamis almost
+unconsciously.
+
+  [Picture: The Corinth Canal (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)]
+
+It is not my privilege to sail from one of the historic isles of the
+Mediterranean to another, nor do I know that in all cases it would be
+safe.  In many cases besides Corsica and Sicily the traveller has to look
+to his ways.  There are brigands to be met with still and as we travelled
+we heard of a British officer who had just been made captive as he
+wandered about in search of a day’s shooting.  As you may well suppose, I
+gave the brigands a wide berth.  I am quite content with being fleeced by
+guides and hotel-keepers.  When I was in Australia, I was amused to learn
+that the last of the bushrangers had sailed to America to carry on a
+hotel.  I fear that in many parts of the world the two callings have much
+in common.  I believe the British pay no taxes—at any rate, they do not
+in Jerusalem—and this is one reason why we meet with such swarms of shady
+Greeks who claim to be British subjects.  In this part of the world the
+_Civis Romanus sum_ of old Palmerston seems to me in danger of being
+carried a deal too far.  Not that I am a Little Englander; I am, in fact,
+very much the reverse.
+
+Over these waters sailed the hardy mariners of ancient Greece in search
+of the Golden Fleece, and the brave Theseus, as he went to do battle with
+the monster Minos, who demanded a yearly tribute of Athenian maids.  We
+all went on deck to have a look at Patmos, where the Apostle John wrote
+that wondrous dream, the Revelation, and viewed with interest the white
+convent on the island which still bears his name.
+
+In the Sea of Marmora we pass the Princes Islands, four of which are
+inhabited.  In one of them is the grave of Sir Edward Barton, the first
+resident British Ambassador in Turkey.  He was sent by Queen Elizabeth to
+the Sultan Mahommed III., and died in 1507.  Another of them, Plati, was
+purchased by Sir H. Bulwer while Ambassador to Constantinople.  He built
+a castle on it, which is now falling into ruins, and later sold the
+island to the ex-Khedive of Egypt, to whose family it still belongs.
+Steaming south, we pass Alexandria Troas, which was twice visited by St.
+Paul.  On the first occasion he came down from Mysia and went to
+Macedonia; on the second, on his return from Greece, he had an interview
+with a large body of fellow-workers.  It was there he restored Eutychus,
+who had fallen from an upper window in his sleep.
+
+Next we pass the ancient island of Lesbos, one of the most beautiful in
+the Ægean Sea.  Islands are around us everywhere.  There is no end to
+them.  The most thickly populated of them is Chio; another is Cos, of
+which we see the chief town, the birthplace of Hippocrates, the great
+physician.  Then we pass Rhodes, famous for its renowned knights, who did
+battle with the ever-advancing Turk, of whom Luther had such fear, and
+its grand Colossus overthrown and broken in pieces by an earthquake
+fifty-six years after its erection, B.C. 224; and then we leave the
+lovely Mediterranean at Jaffa, where, according to Greek mythology,
+Andromeda was chained to the rock and delivered by Perseus, and where the
+prophet Jonah embarked when he tried to escape the command of God to go
+and warn Nineveh of its impending fate.  Of course I went to the house
+where St. Peter lived, the dwelling of Simon the tanner, a very dreary,
+tumbledown old place, which required a good deal of climbing, rather
+trying in that sultry clime.  And here I leave that wonderful
+Mediterranean over which the navies of all the world in all ages have
+swept.
+
+       ‘Thy shores are empires, changed in all save thee—
+       Assyria, Greece, Rome, Carthage, what are they?
+       Thy waters washed them power while they were free,
+       And many a tyrant since; their shores obey
+       The stranger, slave, or savage; their decay
+       Has dried up realms to deserts: not so thou;
+       Unchangeable save to thy wild waves’ play—
+       Time writes no wrinkles on thine azure brow—
+    Such as Creation’s dawn beheld, thou rollest now.’
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+ABOUT ATHENS.
+
+For the first time in my life, I realize the fact that the Mediterranean
+is a lake—calm and blue as the eyes we love.  What astonishes me is the
+absence of life in these waters.  All is barren as that dreary sail
+across the Indian Ocean from Ceylon to West Australia.  Really, if it
+were not for the photographers, who are always at work on board, we
+should be rather dull.  It is really wonderful the number of amateur
+photographers who have come out in the _Midnight Sun_, and are daily
+having recourse to their art; and sometimes the consequences are
+ludicrous.  For instance, we have a considerable number of respectable
+married people on board.  Amongst them are a young couple whose
+experience of matrimonial felicity has been, I suspect, somewhat of the
+shortest.  One morning they were ‘far from the madding crowd,’ indulging
+in little familiarities, such as leaning on one another’s shoulders—quite
+proper, as we must all admit, but rather suited for private than public
+life.  Well, a photographer had his eye on them, and straightway made
+them his victims.  There they were, large and fully recognisable.  His
+praiseworthy attempt was greeted with a roar of laughter, of which the
+victims, far away (the artist was on the upper deck), had not the
+remotest idea.  Let me add the moral: let me beg the newly-married ones
+to beware of the photographers.  More numerous than the photographers are
+the ladies and gentlemen who spend their mornings in writing their
+diaries—if with a view to publication, a sad look-out.
+
+In due time we reach Attica, and are landed at the Piræus, which is busy
+now as when Themistocles planned the harbour and Pericles planted its
+walls, five miles in length.  The town has quite a modern look; nothing
+of its ancient glory remains.  Its modern history dates from 1834.  A
+modern lighthouse marks the site of the tomb of Themistocles.  A railway,
+made in 1869, now connects the Piræus with Athens, and it grows apace.
+In old times there was rarely to be seen any boat in the harbour.  In
+1871 the population was only 11,000; in 1890 it had grown to 36,000,
+About 6,000 vessels of over two and a half millions of tonnage, one half
+of which is in Greek bottoms, enter the harbour annually.  As a town, it
+consists chiefly of commercial buildings and unpretending private
+residences.  It has, however, an arsenal, a military and naval school,
+several handsome churches for the orthodox members of the Greek Church,
+an interesting museum of antiquities, and a gymnasium.  Trains run to
+Athens through the whole day until midnight.  We land in a homely quarter
+of the town.  ‘It is in the spring,’ writes Edmond About, ‘one sees
+Attica in her glory, when the air is so clear and transparent that it
+seems as if one had only to put forth one’s hand to touch the furthest
+mountains; when it carries sounds so faithfully that one can hear the
+bleating of flocks half a mile away, and the cries of great eagles, which
+are lost to sight in the immensity of the skies.’
+
+I find Athens hot and dusty—a fine white dust, which makes everything
+look desolate.  I get hold of a plan of Athens, showing me how to make
+the most of six days, but as I have not that time to spare, one’s first
+thoughts turn naturally to the Acropolis, a rocky plateau of crystallized
+limestone, rising to about 200 feet.  Romans, Goths, Byzantines, and
+Turks have done their best to make Athens a heap of ruins.  It was well
+that Lord Elgin did so much to preserve some of the choicest relics of
+Athens by bringing them to England and sending them to the British
+Museum.  Had he not done so, they would have been inevitably destroyed by
+the unspeakable Turk, a fact deeply to be deplored.
+
+One night we had an amusing illustration of the qualification of the fair
+sex for the right to rule over man.  There was a concert in the
+smoking-room, the finest apartment in the ship.  Amongst the performers
+were some ladies, and a good many were auditors.  Suddenly a large rat
+made its appearance, when all the ladies, shrieking, fled.  I may not be
+equal to the New Woman—of course she is far above me—but, at any rate, I
+am not afraid to face a rat.  Fancy a rat appearing in the House of
+Commons with a lady speaker on her legs, and a Government of ladies
+seated gracefully and in the loveliest of toilettes!  The result would be
+appalling and disastrous.
+
+The country through which we passed was quite dried up, and quite
+prepared me for the tasteless beef and skinny fowl of which I was to
+partake afterwards at the Hôtel Grand Bretagne, where they charged me two
+francs for a cigar; and where, when I remonstrated, I was told that the
+taxes were so high that they could not afford to let me have one for
+less.  There are a great many trees about, but they have all a dwarfed
+and dried-up appearance.  Far off rises the great Acropolis; you may see
+it from the steps of the hotel, and the ruins on its top.  The life of
+the streets amuses me.  It is incessant and ever varying.  The soldier is
+conspicuous, as he is everywhere on the Continent; priests in black robes
+and peculiar black hats are plentiful, grave and black-bearded, though I
+am told that in reality they have little hold on the people of Athens.  I
+have been in one of the churches, very dark, and with a lot of
+ornamentation; and quite a number of people—very old ones—came and
+crossed themselves, after the Greek fashion, before a picture just inside
+the door.  Ladies are to be seen, few of them with any particular
+personal charm, but all in the latest fashions of Paris; and there come
+the girls with pigtails.  I see one of the French illustrated newspapers
+everywhere.  Among the daily papers published in Athens are the _Ora_
+(Hour), the _Plinghensia_ (Regeneration), _Neai Ideai_ (New Idea), _Aion_
+(Era), _Toia_ (Morning), and _Telegrafui_ (The Telegram).  The most
+curious people you see are the men from the country, with black
+waistcoats, white petticoats—I can give them no other name—dark hose, and
+antique-looking shoes turned up at the toes and decorated—why, I know
+not—with enormous tufts.  The living objects I most pity are the forlorn,
+half-starved donkeys, loaded fore and aft with luggage, while in the
+centre, on his saddle, is seated his hard-hearted proprietor.  Some of
+the shops are fine, but few of the houses are lofty—the most striking
+being modern buildings, built on the plan to admit as much air as
+possible, and to exclude the light.  But you see no beggars in the
+streets, and that is a good sign.  Greece has, as you know, the most
+democratic Government of any.  The King, who is not very popular, reigns,
+but does not govern.  The real power is in the hands of the Legislative
+Chamber—there is no Upper House—consisting of 150 members, all paid for
+their services, and elected by means of universal suffrage and the ballot
+every four years.  The population of Athens is about 160,000, with the
+addition of 3,000 Armenian refugees who have found there a city of
+refuge.  Education is free and compulsory, reaching from the lowest
+strata to the University, so that every lad of talent has a chance.  If
+democracy can make a people happy and content and prosperous, the Greeks
+ought to be content.  There must be a good many wealthy men at Athens,
+however, whom the democracy have wisely spared.  It is not right to kill
+the goose that lays the golden egg, as is desired by some of our
+Socialists.
+
+Modern Greece, with the exception of America, is the most republican
+Government in existence; at any rate, it is ahead of England in this
+respect.  We want, or, rather, some people do, who do not know any
+better, to agitate for payment of members.  I object because I have seen
+the mischief of paid members in all our colonies, and because when I part
+with my scanty cash I like to have value for my money; and as I know the
+average M.P., I think he is dear at any price.  The men in office are
+bitterly opposed by the men who languish in the cold shade of Opposition,
+and that really seems the only line of cleavage.  For instance, if a
+Minister proposes that a certain work should be done by a certain number
+of horses, the Opposition argue that oxen should be used, and so the
+battle rages, for the modern Greek, degenerate though he is, is still as
+fond of talk and windy declamation as any long-winded and ambitious M.P.
+at home.  Ministers, though appointed by the King, are amenable to the
+Chamber, but under this system we do not hear of the great Parliament,
+such as we have at home or in Italy or France.
+
+For administrative purposes Greece is divided into sixteen monarchies,
+governed by municipalities, who alone have the power to levy rates and
+taxes.  These monarchies are divided into eparchies and domarchies, the
+later under the control of the mayor, elected by the people.  Thus in
+Greece alone, in the Old World, we have government of the people and for
+the people.  For purposes of justice there are local courts; five Courts
+of Appeal, and a Supreme Court at Athens.  In matters of education,
+again, Greece is far ahead of us.  We want to connect the people with the
+Universities, so that the poorest lad may have his chance.  In Greece
+this result is obtained.  Ample provision is made for the elementary
+schools, leading from the lowest strata of society up to the
+Universities, free and compulsory—not that the latter provision needs to
+be enforced, as naturally there is a great desire for education all over
+the land.  The Greek Church is the established one, but any undue zeal on
+the part of the priest is held in check both by law and the spirit of
+religious toleration.  Among her subjects Greece reckons as many as
+25,000 Moslems.
+
+ [Picture: Temple Of Victory.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)]
+
+Passing out of the Piræus, to our right we notice a monument to the
+memory of one of the wild heroes of Grecian Independence, whose insolent
+followers were a great trouble to our Lord Byron during his fatal sojourn
+at Missolonghi.  In due time we arrive within sight of the Temple of
+Theseus and the other well known landmarks familiar to the cultivated
+reader.  Nevertheless, the approach to Athens is not very interesting, as
+we enter through one of its most homely quarters.  The principal modern
+institutions are the Polytechnic School, divided into three branches—the
+School of Fine Art, the Industrial School, and the Holiday School, where
+on Sundays and feast-days instruction is given in writing, elementary
+drawing, etc.; there is also a School of Telegraphy.  In the same
+neighbourhood is also to be found the Academy of Science; next to the
+Academy is the University, adorned with statues of the famous men who
+helped to make modern Greece.  The classes at the University are
+practically free, and the number of students attending is generally
+between 3,000 and 4,000.  The library in connection with the University
+has 100,000 volumes.
+
+It is impossible to do justice to the activity of the life in these
+parts; there are many steamers in the harbour—I saw two steam away one
+morning.  Naples seems a very sleepy place compared to the Piræus.
+Little white boats, with leg-of-mutton sails, skim the blue waters of the
+harbour all day long, and the men are lean and dark, and wonderfully
+active, a great contrast to our English sailors.  Once upon a time,
+coming from New York, we called off Portland Bill for a pilot.  It was
+midnight, and dark as Erebus, but we all sat up waiting for the pilot, to
+hear the English news.  Suddenly there climbed up the ship’s side, and
+stood on the deck in the full glare of light, two awful living mountains
+of flesh, as fat as beer and bacon could make them—a couple of English
+pilots.  We had some skinny American ladies on board, and when they saw
+these men they uttered quite an appalling shriek.  They had never seen
+such specimens of humanity before.  I own I felt really ashamed of my
+fellow-countrymen, and asked myself why on earth men should make
+themselves such guys.  Happily, in Australia I lost a couple of stone,
+and I have been mercifully preserved from laying on flesh ever since.
+Flesh is the great source of human depravity.  With Falstaff, I hold the
+more of it the more frailty.
+
+   [Picture: The Parthenon.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)]
+
+And now let me return to Athens, the Acropolis of which I see in all its
+glory, and on which by night lights gleam that you can see in the
+harbour, crowning the belt of bright lamps which by night glorify the
+whole front of the town.  They show you Mars’ Hill, where Paul preached
+the unknown God; the porch of the Erechtheum, sacred to the olive-tree,
+brought to Greece by Athene; and the Parthenon, which still attests the
+genius of Phidias.  Of Athens it may be said:
+
+    ‘Her shores are those whence many a mighty bard
+       Caught inspiration glorious in their beams;
+    Her hills the same that heroes died to guard,
+       Her vales that fostered Art’s divinest dreams.’
+
+Modern Athens is bright and cheerful, the shops gay and lofty, with
+well-known Greek names.  The latter remark also applies to the streets.
+The hotels are magnificent.  The Hôtel d’Angleterre is well spoken of,
+and the dragoman Apostoles will be found an intelligent servant, who will
+arrange for the traveller who is disposed to make an excursion in the
+Morea for food, lodging, mules or horses at a reasonable rate.  The Hôtel
+Grand Bretagne, just opposite the palace—and a far finer building to look
+at—is about as good a hotel as I was ever in.  The rooms seem awfully
+dark as you enter from the glare of the ever-shining sun, but the rooms
+are lofty, well ventilated, and everywhere you have marble floors and
+marble columns, and the feeding is good, considering what a parched-up
+land Greece is, and how dried-up its beef and skinny its poultry.  I have
+seen cheaper hotels in Athens, such as the Hôtel des Iles Ionienic, the
+proprietor of which, a Greek from Corfu, strongly recommended it to me;
+but on the whole, in such a place as Athens, I should think it preferable
+to pay a little more for the comfort of a first-class hotel, even though
+it may make one indifferent to the ‘Laurels’ or the ‘Cedars’ of his own
+native land.
+
+How to live rationally is an art the majority of Englishmen have not yet
+acquired.  I leave Athens with regret; its people are all industrious.
+At any rate, there are no beggars in its streets; and if this be the
+result of its democratic Government, so much the better for the coming
+democracy, which, whether we like it or not, is sure to rule at home.
+Here the Government is popular, and the people are content.  Manufactures
+are almost unknown.  They have a woollen factory at Athens, and a
+cotton-mill in the Piræus, and there must be a busy agricultural
+population, as a good deal of the land between the Piræus and the capital
+is laid out in market-gardens.  I am troubled as I think of our great
+cities, with their vices and slums.  I hold, with the poet, God made the
+country and man the town.
+
+It is a chequered history, that of Athens.  Once it was occupied by the
+Goths.  The Romans fortified it; but the ancient walls, which had been
+strengthened by Sylla, were unequal to its defence, and the barbarians
+became masters of the noble seats of the Muses and the Arts.  Zosimus
+tells us that the walls of Athens were guarded by the goddess Minerva,
+with her formidable ægis, and by the angry phantom of Achilles, and that
+the conqueror was dismayed by the presence of the hostile gods of Greece.
+Yet, nevertheless, Alaric a second time mastered the city by means of his
+barbarian troops.  It is wonderful that any remains of the Athens of its
+prime exist.  As it is, it requires a good deal of enthusiasm to ‘do’ its
+ruins, with which photography has long made the world familiar.  The
+glory of the Parthenon, however, remains.  Gibbon tells us in the sack of
+Athens the Goths had collected all the libraries, and were about to set
+fire to them, when one of the chiefs, of more refined policy than his
+brethren, dissuaded them from the design by the profound observation that
+as long as the Greeks were exercised in the study of books they would
+never apply themselves to the exercise of arms.  But, as Gibbon writes,
+the Gothic arms were less fatal to the schools of Athens than the
+establishment of a new religion, whose masters resolved every question
+into an article of faith, and condemned the infidel to eternal flames.
+For centuries Athens had flourished by means of her schools.  After the
+settlement of the Roman Empire, it was filled with scholars from every
+part of the known world, even including students from Britain.  In the
+suburbs of the city tradition still lingered of the Academy of the
+Platonists, the Lycæum of the Peripatetics, the Portico of the Stoics,
+and the Garden of Epicurus.  The Attic schools of rhetoric and philosophy
+maintained their reputation from the Peloponnesian war to the reign of
+Justinian.  It was he who suppressed the school which had given so many
+sages to mankind, and whose influences have quickened and invigorated the
+human intellect ever since.  The art of oratory may soon be held to be
+almost a doubtful boon—at any rate, so far as senates and parliaments are
+concerned.  It was not so when the eloquence of Demosthenes
+
+             ‘shook the arsenal,
+    And fulmined over Greece.’
+
+Some of my fellow-passengers made their way to Eleusis, but they came
+back disappointed, and covered with dust.  It was enough for me to study
+the life of the streets—full of soldiers and black-robed priests.
+
+The traveller who, remembering the long period of Turkish sway, counts on
+receiving an Oriental impression from the aspect of Athens is doomed to
+disappointment.  Even the national garb is fast disappearing.  It may
+still be worn by a few elderly Athenians.  These, and a peasant here and
+there selling milk or cheese, recall the day when their dress was the
+national one.  The wide blue trousers of the Ægean islanders are not less
+rare, nor is there much chance of seeing them at the Piræus, among the
+craft from the various islands moored along the quays.  The uglier and
+cheaper product of the slop-shop has replaced the picturesque drapery of
+the olden time.
+
+Sooner or later Athens is sure to become a winter resort not less
+favoured than any on the Mediterranean, and the permanent home of many
+foreigners.  The opinion thus confidently expressed is strengthened by
+the fact that few who have lived for some length of time within its gates
+pass out of them without regret, or fail to re-enter them with pleasure.
+At any rate, so writes a learned American.
+
+A gentleman has written explaining that Greece is bankrupt because she is
+so small.  He says that out of 5,000,000 Greeks who rose in 1821 against
+the Turk, less than 1,000,000 were allowed to form part of the Hellenic
+kingdom.  The obvious reply to this is, Why don’t they go and live in
+Greece if they really want to?  Nobody forces them to live elsewhere, and
+they can hardly be waiting till Constantinople, Asia Minor and Cyprus are
+added to King George’s kingdom.  The truth is that in business Greek
+would rather not meet Greek; there is more money in meeting somebody
+else.  The rich Greeks will always be found outside Greece.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+CONSTANTINOPLE.
+
+I am in Constantinople, founded 658 B.C. by Byza, King of Megara, after
+whom it was called Byzantium.  After some hundreds of years it fell into
+the hands of the Romans, who, like the Scotch, kept everything they could
+lay their hands on; and then came Constantine the Great, whose mother,
+some people say, lived in East Anglia, who enlarged and beautified the
+city, built the Hippodrome (one of the wonders of the place), and would
+have made it the capital of his enormous empire.  No one can blame the
+Emperor for preferring Constantinople to Rome.
+
+The city soon became worthy to be the seat of empire.  It commanded from
+its seven hills the opposite shores of Asia and Europe.  The climate was
+healthy, the soil fertile, and the harbour capacious and secure.  The
+Bosphorus and the Hellespont were its two gates, which could always be
+shut against a hostile fleet.  A hundred years after its foundation, a
+writer, quoted by Gibbon, describes it as possessing a school of
+learning, a circus, two theatres, eight public and a hundred and
+fifty-three private baths, fifty-two porticos, five granaries, eight
+aqueducts, four spacious halls for the meetings of the senate and courts
+of justice, fourteen churches, fourteen palaces, and four thousand three
+hundred private houses, which from their size and beauty deserved to be
+distinguished from the multitude of plebeian buildings.  Successive wars
+and invasions impaired the wealth and the magnificence of the city.  Of
+the time of Constantine little remains but the ruins of the Hippodrome.
+The Christian Church of St. Sophia, which he erected to the Eternal
+Wisdom, and from the pulpit of which Gregory of Nazianzen and Chrysostom
+the golden-mouthed thundered, was burnt in the reign of Justinian, and
+his Church of St. Sophia is now a Turkish mosque.  The city was the seat
+and centre of the controversies originated in Alexandria as to the nature
+of the Trinity, and its rival factions, the Greens and the Blues, were
+ever ready to engage in bloody and disastrous conflict.  As a rule, a
+man’s zeal is according to his ignorance, and at Constantinople the
+meanest mechanics spent most of their time in discussing mysteries of
+which the acutest intellects can never even form an adequate idea, and
+which no human creed can properly define and express.  The Crusaders, who
+knew little of these matters, seem to have been quite awestruck when they
+made their way to Constantinople.  ‘That such a city could be in the
+world,’ writes one of the old chroniclers, ‘they had never conceived, and
+they were never weary of staring at the high walls and towers with which
+it was entirely compassed; the rich palaces and lofty churches, of which
+there were so many that no one could have believed it if he had not seen
+with his own eyes that city—the queen of all cities.’
+
+There are few places naturally so picturesque—no city where the suburbs
+are so charming.  One never wearies of Scutari, Gallipoli, washed by the
+splendid waters of the Sea of Marmora, the Bosphorus, or those of that
+magnificent harbour, the Golden Horn, which extends eight miles, and
+affords an anchorage for a fleet of twelve hundred vessels.  Indeed,
+whether viewed from sea or land, or from such a wonderful standpoint as
+the marble tower of the Seraskierat, Constantinople on its seven hills,
+divided as it were between Europe and Asia, presents a marvellous display
+of scenic beauty.  You gaze on stately white palaces, surrounded by
+domes, towers, cupolas, standing amidst tier above tier of many-coloured
+dwellings, surrounded on all sides by graceful masses of dark cypresses
+and sombre pines.  High above all rises the grand marble mosque of St.
+Sophia, resplendent with mosaics, and sending up heavenwards its lofty
+minarets, whence five times a day the cry of the muezzin calls the world
+to prayer.  As you look and admire, you feel, with the poet,
+
+    ‘That every prospect pleases,
+       And only man is vile’—
+
+that is, ever since the Turk has been there.  And thus it appears that
+Constantinople has been, socially and politically, a centre of
+abominations.  It was in 1453 that Mahomet II. took it as his own, and it
+is there that the unspeakable Turk has ever since remained, and mainly in
+consequence of English diplomacy and the prodigal expenditure of English
+treasure and blood.  The climax was reached in the days of Lord Stratford
+de Redcliffe—the Great Elchi, as he was termed.  He insisted on reforms,
+and the Sultan granted them.  He insisted that all religions should be
+equal in the eye of the law, and the precious boon was at once declared.
+[Picture: A busy street in Constantinople.  (From a photograph)] Under
+the pressure of the Great Elchi, the Sultan issued a proclamation,
+stating his desire of renewing and enlarging the numerous improvements
+suggested in his institutions, with a view of making them worthy of the
+place which his empire held among civilized nations.  He was anxious, he
+said, to promote the happiness of his people, who in his sight were all
+equal and equally dear.  ‘Every distinction or designation tending to
+make any class of subjects of my empire inferior to any other class on
+account of their religion, language, or race shall be for ever effaced.’
+No one was to be hindered in future on account of his religious creed; no
+one was to be compelled to change his religion.  Such was the spirit of
+the famous _hatti Humayun_ of 1856.  Then came the Treaty of Paris, to
+destroy the influence of England in the East.  The French cared nothing
+for Turkish reform, and have cared nothing ever since.  Bulgarian
+atrocities, murder and massacre in Cyprus, murder and massacre on a
+larger scale in Armenia or wherever Armenians are gathered together—of
+these things the gay world of Paris takes little heed, except when an
+occasion offers to sneer at John Bull.  What cares La Belle France, so
+long as it has its boulevards and theatres, for the deadly sufferings of
+any nationality?  When did it ever fight for men and women dying by the
+thousand—ay, tens of thousands, under the despotic sway of a Sultan Abdul
+Hamid?  France does not fight; its aim is to sneer at others and to
+glorify itself, to make better people as heartless, as cynical, as
+frivolous as itself.  And are we much better—we, whose people, and
+nobles, and courtiers, and statesmen, and princes, have just done
+throwing themselves under the feet of [Picture: A Mosque on the
+Bosphorus.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co., Reigate)] the Czar?
+Yes, but John Bull can act when he has a mind—that is, when he has his
+inferiors to deal with.  It was beautiful when we brought Greece on her
+knees over the Don Pacifico affair!  How bitterly we made China pay for
+her attack on the _Arrow_!  How we settled the would-be Sultan of
+Zanzibar!  How we have smitten the Dervishes hip and thigh!  When I was
+in Ceylon, I had an interesting interview with Arabi Pasha.  I left him
+hoping, and that is what we all do as regards Turkish affairs—hoping for
+what never comes.
+
+In the Dardanelles we make our first acquaintance with the Turk.  He
+arrives in a small steamer, with a crew of men wearing the red fez, and
+at the stern of his boat floats the red flag of Turkey, bearing the
+crescent.  He gives us permission to pursue our way past the forts on
+either side at the mouth and along the Dardanelles, at the entrance to
+which point are lying off on our right the far-famed plains of windy
+Troy.  I see also a couple of ironclads, but of what nationality I cannot
+exactly make out.  We are soon out of the Dardanelles, and at Gallipoli,
+the last town on the European side, and we enter the Sea of Marmora.  In
+current language, Constantinople includes Stamboul, Galata, and its
+suburbs, which stretch up both sides of the Bosphorus.  Galata, the
+mercantile and shipping quarter, occupies the point and slopes at the
+right-hand side of the Golden Horn.
+
+Constantinople looks best at a distance.  It is true here that distance
+lends enchantment to the view.  Outside it glitters with magnificence.
+Inside it is foul and beastly, with pavements detestable to walk along or
+drive, with ruins at every corner, and with refuse [Picture: The Quay,
+Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)] lying to
+fester in the blazing sun all day long—certainly a remarkable
+illustration of what Lord Palmerston affirmed, that dirt was only matter
+in the wrong place.  If you drive you are choked with dust, and the
+streets are by no means broad enough for the constant business and
+bustle.  Enter the mosques, and you are astonished at their grandeur and
+the air of desolation and neglect all round.  On the waters you miss the
+gay caique, now superseded by the steam-ferries, ever vomiting clouds of
+sulphurous smoke.  In the city you see the tramcar, a very shabby one,
+doing a roaring trade.  Down by the harbour you see the police, well
+armed and in small detachments, carefully guarding the streets.  The men,
+with the exception of the red fez, mostly wear the European costume.  The
+women you see in the streets are old and ugly, and, happily, veiled, so
+that you see nothing of their ugliness but the nose and eyes.  Some of
+the little urchins and girls are very bright-looking, but I fancy they
+are mostly Greeks.  The Turkish boy of the middle class seemed to me very
+heavy, but, however that may be, he develops into a fine man, with a
+grand dark face and powerful nose, and looks especially well when on his
+Arab steed—small, but active and strong, as if he were born to drive
+everyone before him.  Alas! in his little shop he seems very listless and
+apathetic, but the man in the street is very pertinacious, and I have
+just bought an elegant walking-stick for half a crown, after being asked
+four shillings, which I hold to be the cheapest bargain I have made for
+some time.
+
+We are quite mistaken in England as to the safety of walking the streets
+in Constantinople.  I heard of a row last night, but by day the streets
+are quite as secure as they are in London.  One thing that astonishes me
+is the utter ignorance of the people of what is going on outside
+respecting Turkish affairs, and the action, if any, of the diplomatists.
+You never hear a word on the subject.  To sell seems to be the only aim
+of the Turk.  The shops are prodigious.  In London their owners would be
+a great middle class, and form an enlightened public opinion.  Here they
+do nothing of the kind, and there is not a street that has a decent
+pavement nor a corner that is not a dunghill.  There seems to be no
+attempt at improvement.  The dogs—very much like Australian dingoes—bark
+and bite all day and howl all night.  Confusion and decay seem to reign
+paramount.  Now and then you come to an open space—as at the old
+slave-market, the mosques, and the Hippodrome, where a few trees, chiefly
+acacias, manage to live, and then you plunge into Holywell Street as it
+existed half a century back, and all is darkness and dirt again.
+
+Constantinople seems to live chiefly on corn imported from Roumelia and
+Bulgaria; but they say they are going to open up Asia Minor by means of
+railways, and the wheat-grower there will then have his chance.  There
+are few liquor-shops, but many for the sale of lemon-and-water and grapes
+and melons.  In many a shop I see Sunlight Soap and the biscuits of
+Huntley and Palmer and Peek and Frean.  The donkeys and horses have an
+awful time of it as they go along the narrow streets, with panniers on
+each side, which appear to get in everyone’s way.  Then comes a rickety
+waggon, drawn by two big oxen, which seem as if they must grind the
+pedestrian to powder.  Then follows the porter, perspiring and bending
+under his heavy load, and the aged crone, more or less veiled, as if she
+had—which she has not, unhappily—a glimpse of female charm to display.
+Now and then you meet a priest with his red-and-white turban and long
+brown robe, and if you make your way into a mosque—and they are all worth
+visiting—there, in a little wooden recess, seated cross-legged on an
+Indian mat, you will find a priest or devout layman by himself, repeating
+verses of the Koran.  The mosques are grotesque outside, but inspiring
+from their size inside.
+
+Constantinople is not the place to come to on a hot November day, and the
+commercial port is, I hold, utterly unfit for shipping.  We have a good
+deal of diarrhoea on board, nor can you wonder, when you remember that
+into this one spot flows all the filth and sewage of Galata.  It is worse
+than Naples; it is worse than Athens, and that is saying a good deal.
+Coleridge’s Cologne, with its numerous stenches, is nothing to it.  If
+there be any truth in sanitary science, there must be an awful waste of
+life in these parts.  Here we hear not a whisper of the Turkish crisis,
+or of the driving out of the Turk, ‘bag and baggage,’ as Lord Stratford
+de Redcliffe wrote fifty years before Mr. Gladstone adopted the
+celebrated phrase.  Be that as it may, Constantinople gives you an idea
+of a densely-populated city.  It is with real difficulty that you make
+your way anywhere.  The fat official Turk, who dines in some gorgeous
+palace—and the place is full of them—and drives in his brougham and pair,
+may have an easy time of it; but the majority of the inhabitants, in
+their narrow shops and darkened houses, must have a bad time of it.  I
+sigh for the wings of a dove, that I may fly away and be at rest.  Under
+this pestiferous atmosphere and bright, blazing sun, it is impossible to
+do anything but sleep; but that is not easy in one’s small cabin,
+floating on this wide waste of sewage.  There seems nothing to amuse the
+people.  In the course of my peregrinations I met with but one minstrel,
+and he was far away.  Next to the mosques, the coolest place I have yet
+visited is the new museum, with a [Picture: Galata Bridge,
+Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)] fine
+collection of Greek and Roman and Egyptian antiquities; but I am no
+friend to a hurried visit to a museum, which leaves the mind rather
+confused and uninformed.  As yet I have made no attempt to penetrate into
+the mysteries of the harem.  For one thing, I am rather past that sort of
+thing.  But if I may judge from what I have seen outside the harem, there
+can be but little to tempt one to enter within; and with the poet I
+exclaim, ‘Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise.’
+
+I fancy we are most of us tired of Constantinople.  To me it is a place
+where a little sight-seeing goes a long way.  Our gallant captain, on the
+contrary, tells me that he could put in three months here very well.  As
+it is, there are about 2,000 English here, to say nothing of naturalized
+Greeks and Maltese.  I suppose Constantinople is not a bad place for a
+short residence.  The hotels are good, and in some you may have a bedroom
+for four francs a day.  Provisions are not dear, but house-rent is very
+expensive.  The population of the place is dense, at which I wonder, as
+Constantinople seems to me the most unhealthy city I have ever seen.  The
+only nuisances are the guides, who will persist in following you
+everywhere, and whose knowledge of English and of the things you really
+want to know is very limited.  For instance, I passed two obelisks one
+day.  I asked my guide about them.  ‘They come from Egypt,’ was his
+reply.  I could have told him as much myself.
+
+If you need rest, seek it not in Constantinople, with its noisy crowds by
+day and its noisy dogs by night; seek it not in its narrow streets, where
+horses and asses and big bullocks, dragging along the most rickety of
+waggons, are ever to be seen; seek it not as you drive along its uneven
+and disgracefully-paved streets.  The mosques are cool and spacious—there
+you may rest; but if there is a service, you are not permitted to remain
+unless you are a Mohammedan.  One advantage of the mosques is that there
+is generally a large open space attached to them, where people can wash
+themselves and also hold a market.  People seem to [Picture: An old
+street, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)] do
+much as they like, as they talk and smoke and play cards, and indulge in
+coffee or lemon-and-water.  I have never yet seen a drunken man or—what
+is worse—a drunken woman, and yet an English lady, a clergyman’s wife,
+told me that she only went on shore once, and was so shocked that she
+resolved never to set foot in the place again.  The people were so
+degraded; the poor porters were so overburdened; and, then, they were all
+such awful idolaters.  I presume the lady knows nothing of parts of
+London where worse sights are to be seen every day.
+
+The Bosphorus is beautiful beyond description.  It beats the Rhine, it
+beats the American Hudson; indeed, it is the grandest panorama in the
+world.  At its back rise the green wooded hills, and the front is lined
+with pleasant villas and palaces—white or yellow, built in Turkish
+fashion, with innumerable windows everywhere.  There must be great wealth
+in the district to build and support such places.  Everywhere there is a
+great appearance of religion.  Go into a mosque any hour you will, and
+you see a priest or layman sitting in a quiet corner, fenced with a
+wooden rail, cross-legged, repeating the Koran.  One of the oddest sights
+I saw in the grand Mosque of St. Sophia was that of an old-fashioned
+London clock.  One of my troubles as I explored the mosque—the floor of
+which is lined with Indian matting—was to keep on my Turkish slippers.
+An attendant who followed me had to stoop down every minute to put them
+on, that I might not reveal the deck-shoes which I wore inside.  A
+gentleman who had visited the mosque told me that on one occasion, when
+he took off a pair of new boots there which he was wearing, he never saw
+them again.
+
+It is wonderful how cheap provisions are: beef, threepence a pound;
+bread, a halfpenny; grapes, a halfpenny; fowls for sevenpence; and
+mountains of melons everywhere.  There is free education, and an abundant
+supply of schools.  The labouring classes are well employed.  The English
+here are chiefly merchants or agents or engineers.  On our way back we
+pass that favourite resort of the Turkish holiday-makers—the Valley of
+Sweet Waters—and have a good view of the hospital at Scutari, built by
+Florence Nightingale—now utilized as barracks—and of the monuments in
+front of the cemetery in memory of the British officers and soldiers who
+died during the Crimean War.
+
+It is a relief to us all to get back into the Dardanelles and sail over
+the spot where Xerxes built his famous bridge, the narrow strait across
+which Leander swam nightly to visit his lady-love—a feat performed by our
+great poet Byron at a later age—and wander in fancy as we again catch
+sight of the plains of Troy, the spot where the Greek hero Protesilaus
+first struck the Trojan strand, and thus gave occasion to our Wordsworth
+to write his immortal poem—a poem that will be read and admired when all
+the puny poets of the present age are dead and forgotten.  Out in the
+Ægean Sea the weather is almost cool and delightfully refreshing, just
+like a fine morning in spring at home.  The first isle of any importance
+we make is Tenedos, behind which, on the mainland, lies Troas, visited by
+the Apostle Paul.  To the north lies Besika Bay, where once the French
+and English fleets assembled prior to their passage of the Dardanelles,
+and where the British fleet, under Admiral Hornby, lay in 1887–88 during
+the Russo-Turkish War.  Next we reach the ancient Lectum, the most
+westernly point of Asia, and get a glimpse of the beautiful island of
+Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos.  Mitylene, on the east coast, is prettily
+situated, and does a considerable trade.  There are few remains of the
+ancient city.  The island has 115,000 inhabitants, mostly Greeks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+SMYRNA.
+
+I write now from one of the most ancient cities in the world.  There is a
+wonderful lot of ancient history in these parts.  The mind quite staggers
+under the ever-accumulating load of facts and figures and legends.  The
+Æolians, who founded on this site the first Greek city, claimed it as the
+birthplace of Homer.  It was there that his poetry flourished; then,
+under the successors of Alexander, it became celebrated for its schools
+of science and medicine.  Christianity early made its way into Smyrna,
+which has enjoyed the reputation of being one of the Seven Churches of
+Asia alluded to in Revelation.  It was there that Polycarp suffered
+martyrdom, and it is there they still show you, or profess to show you,
+his tomb.  Defended by the Knights of Rhodes, Smyrna fell when Timur, the
+terrible Mogul, appeared before it and put all that breathed to the
+sword.  As it was, I felt satisfied and charmed with modern Smyrna, and
+did not climb the hill behind on which stands the ruins of a castle, and
+where brigands still lie in wait for the unwary traveller.  Nor did I
+take the train to Ephesus, a run of nearly two hours, to wander under the
+hot sun and amidst the rough winds to see what remains, amidst bushes and
+rocks and cornfields, of ancient Ephesus—notwithstanding the fact that
+there Christian synods have been held, and that in a cave adjoining slept
+those marvellous Seven Sleepers; that there stood the temple of the
+goddess Diana, whose worshippers the great Apostle of the Gentiles woke
+up to cry excitedly for the craft by which they lived.  It is a scene of
+desolation, which certainly does not repay the ordinary tourist the
+trouble of a visit.
+
+But I revelled in Smyrna—one of the brightest, cleanest, and most
+prosperous cities under Turkish sway.  Its white houses, chiefly hotels
+and restaurants and theatres, line the bay, with dense shipping in the
+forefront, while the mountains behind, up the slopes of which modern
+Smyrna is gradually planting herself, act as guard and shelter.  At the
+time of my visit there stretched across the bay quite an imposing display
+of ironclads of all nations—American, English, Italian, French—and it
+made me shudder to think of them bombarding this scene of life and gaiety
+and spreading terror amongst its hard-working people.  A tramway runs
+along the whole front of the city for about a couple of miles, and, as
+you stand thinking of the wonders of modern civilization, you hear a bell
+tinkle, and see half a dozen camels laden with sacks of grain striding
+past, generally led by a man on a donkey.  Sometimes the donkey had no
+rider, and yet the patient camel followed all the same.  It was intensely
+amusing: the contrast between the little donkey leading and the big camel
+behind.  It set me thinking of the many parallel passages in modern
+history—of parties, Churches, States, led by donkeys.  Smyrna has an
+enormous bazaar, into which it is easier to find one’s way than to get
+out.  It has fine mosques and handsome Greek churches.  It shelters the
+ships and people of all nations, but my chief delight was to watch the
+string of camels as they ever came and went.  Even in the narrow passages
+of the bazaar there were the camels, and it was all you could do to get
+out of the way of these grand animals, for such they were.
+
+ [Picture: The Gate of Persecution, near Ephesus.  (From a photograph by
+                           Fradelle and Young)]
+
+One place that I visited much interested me.  It was the Sailors’ Rest on
+the quay, a fine room with a library and reading-room, where the sailors
+come and go, and where they are supplied with refreshments of a
+non-intoxicating character, carried on in connection with the Greek
+Evangelical Alliance, founded in Smyrna in 1883.  Depression in business,
+and consequent poverty and other causes, such as the declining number of
+British merchants who come to Smyrna, ousted, I presume, by more
+enterprising rivals, and troubles in the interior, have hindered the
+work, which, however, is successfully carried on.  The average attendance
+last year was: Sunday morning service, 83; afternoon, 59; Tuesday
+prayer-meeting, 41; Gospel service at the Rest, 50.  At the Sunday-school
+the average attendance has been about 60.  Owing to the shifting
+population of Smyrna, many of the church members have become scattered in
+many lands.  The bitterest enemies of the work are the members of the
+Orthodox Greek Church, who have no sympathy with an Evangelical Alliance
+of any kind, and care not a rap for the union of the Churches.  As an
+illustration, take the following: ‘In 1895 it was expected that the
+official permit for the building of a chapel on a site assigned by
+Government would be granted to the Evangelicals.  In fact, in the middle
+of January permission was granted for the opening of the school, but the
+local authorities, desiring to avoid any possible outbreak on the part of
+‘the Orthodox,’ tried to bring about a friendly compromise.  It was all
+in vain, the Orthodox declaring that they would listen to no terms unless
+the Evangelicals were entirely thrust out from the central quarter of the
+town, and that they would never allow the chapel to be built or the site
+prepared for it.  Thus foiled, the Evangelicals opened their school, but
+‘the Orthodox’ attacked the building with stones, defacing it almost
+entirely, and quite destroying all the furniture within.  The result was
+that the Evangelicals had to commence their labours anew elsewhere.
+After two months’ labour the ire of the Orthodox was again aroused; they
+drove out the workmen, pulled down part of the walls, and finally
+remained masters of the situation.  It is true that fifteen of the
+Orthodox were imprisoned, but the Evangelicals were advised to leave the
+situation also, and to remove to some other site more acceptable to their
+opponents.  This advice the Evangelicals refused to accept, and, after a
+long delay, by the personal efforts and goodwill of the new Turkish
+Governor the building was restored.  Orthodoxy seemed to be a sad
+stumbling-block in the way of good work everywhere.  The Sailors’ Rest at
+Smyrna may be much aided by British Christians, both by presents of books
+or by pecuniary contributions.  During the last year it seems that 229
+visits have been paid to ships, 64 bags of books sent out, 20 pledges
+taken.  I fear there is a good deal of drunkenness in Smyrna.  Seven
+thousand six hundred visits have been made in the year by sailors to the
+Rest, 797 have attended the meetings, 676 Bibles, Testaments, and
+portions have been given away, and many were the letters sent home by
+sailors from the Rest.  It seems to me that it might be kept open a
+little later at night with advantage, as I find it is the fashion to keep
+many of the drinking-shops open all night.  The work among the Greeks has
+been reviving, and it is regarded as hopeful.  The meetings are well
+attended, and especially so the Wednesday evening meeting in the Corner
+Room at the Rest.  This meeting is described as the fishing-net of the
+Greek work, as many of those who became regular attendants at the other
+services held in the American Chapel began at the Rest.  At Smyrna our
+American fellow-passengers hear the result of the Presidential contest in
+America, and greatly rejoice.  Their country is saved—at any rate, this
+time.  Local lines of steamers run from Smyrna to Messina and Beirut,
+touching at all the important coast towns and at several of the islands,
+at which we have a peep, such as Cos, the birthplace of Hippocrates;
+Halicarnassus, where Herodotus was born, and where stood the famous
+mausoleum, one of the wonders of the world; and Rhodes, far-famed.  But
+we may not tarry even in order to gratify such a laudable curiosity; no,
+not even at Cyprus, which has prospered so much under English rule.  It
+is enough for us to have explored Smyrna, a city which in every way, as
+regards cleanliness in the streets and the absence of abominable smells,
+is a great improvement on Constantinople.  It has a population of nearly
+half a million, of which less than one-fourth is Moslem, and more than
+half Greek.  There are large Armenian and Jewish colonies, that of the
+Jews, of course, being the most squalid, unhealthy and debased.  The town
+is governed by a municipality.  Europeans are under the jurisdiction of
+their consuls.  Its gas lights beamed on us brilliantly as we steamed out
+in the dark into the open sea.  The one nuisance of Smyrna are the boys,
+who go to learn English at the schools taught by the missionaries, and
+these persistently pester you to be taken on as guides.  The professional
+guides are nuisance enough, but these boys are infinitely worse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.
+
+You see nothing of Jerusalem till you get inside the city, and to enjoy a
+visit requires a greater enthusiasm than any to which I can lay claim.
+We were safely landed at Jaffa, which by this time ought to have a more
+decent landing-place; thence, after a glance at the house where Simon the
+Tanner carried on business, I made my way—along tortuous roads, more or
+less blocked with stones and rubbish, and more or less exposed to a
+burning sun—to the station, whence we were to start for Jerusalem, a hot
+ride of nearly four hours in railway-carriages of very second-rate
+quality.  The land about Jaffa is fertile and well cultivated; fig-trees
+and olive-trees and orange-groves are abundant, and at Jaffa the chief
+business seemed to be packing them in boxes for export.  At one
+particular spot our conductor told us that it was there that Samson set
+the cornfields of the Philistines on fire.  Certainly the ground seemed
+dry and baked up enough.  Then Arithmea was reached.  On our way we got
+our first sight of a native village, built of mud huts, into which it
+seemed difficult to find an entrance.  A Kaffir village is infinitely to
+be preferred.  The scene of desolation was complete.  On the neighbouring
+rocks nothing was to be seen but flocks of goats.  A little fairer scene
+opened on us as we passed the neat German colony that has settled down
+here, almost under the shadow of the walls of Jerusalem.  Then the
+terminus is gained, and we are whirled in a cloud of dust, in rickety
+carriages, driven by their hoarsely-shouting drivers at full gallop, all
+of us white as millers, being clothed with dust.  I wash at Howard’s
+Hotel, swallow a cup of tea, and, as we do not dine till six, make my way
+into Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate.  A little of Jerusalem goes a long way.
+It is dark and stifling, swarming with people and camels and asses, and
+noisy beyond description.  A sort of Rag Fair, only with a few touches of
+the East, such as a veiled woman, or a stately Turk in turban and flowing
+robes, or a black-coated, black-bearded Greek priest, or a low row of
+shopkeepers, sitting patiently in their dark and tiny shops, thrown in.
+You must keep moving, or you will be run over by a donkey or a camel,
+for, as the country round Jerusalem grows nothing, the necessaries of
+life have all to be brought from a distance.  My respected countrymen and
+countrywomen are in a state of gush all the while, not to be wondered at
+when you think of the Jerusalem of David, and Solomon, and Jesus Christ.
+As it is in reality, I own I see very little to gush about.  I reach the
+Via Dolorosa—there is no trace of Christ there; I pass the Church of the
+Sepulchre and the mosque which marks the site where Solomon built his
+Temple.  I think of the royal Psalmist who here poured forth the wailings
+of his heart in language which has formed the penitential chant of all
+the ages.  But if I would see the Christ I must get out of this city, all
+crammed with lies and living upon lies.  I muse by myself in the Garden
+of Gethsemane; I climb the Mount of Olives.  It is outside the city, away
+from [Picture: Jerusalem: via Dolorosa and Pontius Pilate’s House] its
+old and new churches, that I see the living Christ and Calvary, and feel
+how true it is that
+
+    ‘Each soul redeemed from sin and death
+       Must know its Calvary.’
+
+I have had enough of Jerusalem.  My fellow-travellers leave me to go to
+Jericho.  I have no wish to be sent to Jericho, and prefer to remain
+under the grateful shelter of my hotel, just outside the Jaffa Gate.
+What strikes me most is the prosperity of the place.  It is growing fast,
+in spite of Turkish rule.  The people are robbed by the tax-collectors;
+nevertheless, the place gains, and the population outside the city walls
+is quite as great as that within.  One reason, of course, is that wealthy
+Christians in England and America spend large sums of money in keeping up
+proselytizing establishments here, and in erecting fine buildings for the
+same end.  Of course we have a Bishop here, but he is High Church, and
+seems, from all I hear, more inclined to bridge over the gulf between his
+Church and the Greek than to promote general and undenominational
+Christian work.  The number of poor Jews is enormous.  They come here
+from all parts of the world to die in the Sacred City, and have many
+charities established on their behalf.  The Britisher has this
+advantage—that he pays no taxes.  The Jew is not permitted to hold a bit
+of land unless he has been a resident here five years.  The Turk holds
+Jerusalem to be a sacred city only second to Mecca.  No wonder, then,
+that the nations have fought bitterly for the possession of its so-called
+sacred shrines; no wonder that Christians from all parts of the world
+hasten to Jerusalem, and that you meet in the streets and shops and
+hotels such a mixture of men and women—brought by excursion-parties from
+London—as, perhaps, you have never seen before, and, perchance, may wish
+never to see again.  I suppose it has ever been so.  Those old Crusaders
+must have been rather a mixed lot.  As it is, [Picture: View from St.
+Stephen’s Gate, with Russian Church and Garden of Gethsemane] the Russian
+Church seems most in evidence.  It has spent, apparently, a great deal of
+money in building purposes.  Its new church, half-way up the Mount of
+Olives, is one of the finest buildings to be seen outside the walls.  The
+Russian is wily; he knows what he is about—at any rate, better than many
+of his rivals in the race for empire.
+
+I think most of my party are getting tired of Jerusalem—even the clergy,
+of whom we have many.  Exertion of any kind is painful on these dusty
+highways and under this blazing sun.  There has been no rain for six
+months, and the Jews in the synagogue are praying for it daily, and yet
+it seems as far off as ever.  One thing that is really enjoyable is the
+cool splendour of these cloudless skies by night.  I have seen the moon
+rise in many lands, but never—no, not even under the Southern Cross—a
+moon so full, so fair, so bright, as that of Judæa, as it throws its
+silvery light over old walls and peasants’ huts, on hill and dale—I may
+not say ancient ruins, for all is new outside Jerusalem, and as regards
+most of the city a similar remark may be made.  For Saracen and Roman
+have devastated and destroyed entirely the real Jerusalem, which is now
+only being disinterred by the labours of the agents of the Palestine
+Exploration Fund, of whom Dr. Bliss is the chief.
+
+The Jews preponderate everywhere, apparently poor and depressed.  The
+real Turk, sleek and well robed, is an imposing figure, but the
+dragomans—chiefly Greeks, or of the Greek Church—are active and
+intelligent, and very ready to use their English, of which, apparently,
+they have but an imperfect knowledge.  The Jews speak the common dialect
+of the country, but are taught Hebrew in the many schools established for
+their benefit.  The food displayed in their cook-shops is, however, by no
+means tempting, and nowhere, unless it be at such an international hotel
+as that of Chevalier Howard, is the commissariat department very strong.
+But we have clean, cool, delightful bedrooms.  And Mr. Chevalier himself
+is a remarkably intelligent and active man, and offers the traveller
+facilities for excursions such as he can find nowhere else.  When one
+thinks of Palestine and the place it fills in the world’s history, it is
+hard to realize what a small extent of country it contains.  Its length
+is about 200 miles, and its average breadth 75 miles.  On one side is the
+Mediterranean Sea, and on the other the desert plain of Arabia.  A
+mountain range runs through it from north to south.  Its chief rivers are
+the Jordan, the Litany, the Abana, and the Pharpar.  I fancy it is better
+to come here in the spring than in the autumn.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+THE HOLY CITY.
+
+The three principal sights in Jerusalem are the Mosque of Omar, now
+standing on the site of Solomon’s Temple, the Church of the Holy
+Sepulchre, and the Muristan, which is the conglomerate remains of
+numerous edifices raised on the same spot in the course of ages, from
+Charlemagne to Saladin, but named from the madhouse built there by the
+Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.  The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
+should be visited in the sunniest part of the day, as the interior is
+awfully dark.  It may be that it is what it assumes to be.  There are
+people who doubt this, as they do everything; but here countless pilgrims
+in all ages have come to pray and weep, and have kissed every stone and
+shrine to be seen within the sacred precincts.  I have read somewhere how
+a young lady from the country came to town to hear the immortal Siddons,
+then in the zenith of her fame.  As soon as the performance began, the
+young lady began to weep immediately.  ‘If you weep in this way,’ said a
+gentleman to her, ‘you will have no tears to shed when the real Siddons
+appears.’  The same feeling occurs to you in Jerusalem.  One is never
+sure that the people are wailing and weeping at the right place.  People
+seem there so much taken up with the dead Christ that they are actually
+in danger of forgetting the living one, who speaks to us to-day as when
+He lifted up His Divine voice in the crowded streets of Jerusalem or
+beneath the proud pillars of the Temple itself.
+
+The question has long been discussed whether the traditional site on
+which stands the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the true one.  The
+matter turns upon the course of the city walls in the time of Christ.
+All are agreed that wherever the sepulchre was, it was without the gate,
+and not within Jerusalem.  From the Gospels we learn that the tomb was
+rock-hewn, and that it was nigh the place of the Crucifixion.  Major
+Conder’s excavations have almost conclusively proved that the traditional
+site was without the circuit of the city wall, and though the point
+cannot be considered as quite settled, there are very strong grounds for
+believing that the site was elsewhere.  By the common consent of experts,
+the true site has been found a short distance north-east from the
+Damascus gate of the present city on the rocky knoll immediately above
+the Jeremiah Grotto of our Bible map.  Indirectly, the so-called Jeremiah
+Grotto contributes some support to the modern identification.  It is the
+spot where executions by stoning were carried out.  The locality General
+Gordon brought into notice as the Holy Sepulchre seems to be quite
+unfounded.  Major Conder points out that the tomb was no new discovery
+when the General was in Jerusalem—that it is probably not a Jewish tomb
+at all, and may be assigned to the middle ages.
+
+It is a wonderful city, this old Jerusalem.  It was here Solomon built
+his Temple a thousand years before Christ.  This structure was
+subsequently destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, rebuilt by Zorobabel, and
+afterwards by Herod.  Then came Titus and the Romans, who left the city a
+desolation.  Of all its stateliness—the populous streets, the palaces of
+the kings, the fortresses of her warriors—not a ruin remains, except
+three tall towers and part of the western wall, which was left for the
+defence of the Roman camp.  From a Roman point of view, Titus had well
+earned the honour of a triumph.
+
+Of course in this connection one falls back on Gibbon: ‘In the midst of a
+rocky and barren country the walls of Jerusalem inclosed the two
+mountains of Sion and Acra within an oval figure of about three miles.
+Towards the south the upper town and the fortress of David were erected
+on the lofty ascent of Mount Zion; on the north side the buildings of the
+lower town covered the spacious summit of Mount Acra, and a part of the
+hill distinguished by the name of Moriah, and levelled by human industry,
+was crowned with the stately temple of the Jewish nation.  After the
+final destruction of the temple by the arms of Titus and Hadrian a
+ploughshare was drawn over the consecrated ground, as a sign of perpetual
+interdiction.  Sion was deserted, and the vacant space of the lower city
+was filled with the public and private edifices which spread themselves
+over the adjacent hill of Calvary.  The holy places were polluted with
+monuments of idolatry; and, either from design or accident, a chapel was
+dedicated to Venus on the spot which had been sanctified by the death and
+resurrection of Christ.  Almost 300 years after these stupendous events
+the profane chapel of Venus was demolished by the order of Constantine,
+and the removal of the earth and stone revealed the Holy Sepulchre to the
+eyes of mankind.  A magnificent church was erected on that mystic ground
+by the first Christian emperor; and the effects of his pious munificence
+were extended to every spot which had been consecrated by the footsteps
+of patriarchs and prophets and the Son of God.’
+
+Admirably Gibbon puts the case.  Nevertheless, from that praiseworthy
+zeal on the part of Constantine, innumerable woes and awful
+demoralization have ensued.  The history of Jerusalem has been dark and
+dolorous ever since.  The priests reaped a golden harvest, and found a
+believing generation ever ready to accept even the most marvellous of
+their statements, the Empress Helena leading the way.  The clergy made
+the most of these devout pilgrimages, and exhibited their powers of
+invention on an enormous scale.  The more the pilgrims demanded, the
+greater the supply.  The clergy fixed the scene of each memorable event.
+They exhibited the instruments which had been used in the passion of
+Christ: the nails and the lance that had pierced His hands, His feet, and
+His side; the crown of thorns that was planted on His head; the pillar at
+which he was scourged; and, above all, they showed the cross on which He
+had suffered—dug miraculously out of the ground!  It seems to us
+impossible that the credulity of people could ever have been so great;
+but, alas! there are no miracles or traditions which devoted men and
+women are unable to swallow.  Such miracles as seemed necessary found
+ample credence.
+
+‘The custody of the _true cross_, which on Easter Tuesday,’ writes
+Gibbon, ‘was solemnly exposed to the people, was intrusted to the Bishop
+of Jerusalem; and he alone might gratify the curious devotion of the
+pilgrims by the gift of small pieces, which they enchased in gold or
+gems, and carried away in triumph to their respective countries.  But as
+this gainful branch of commerce must soon have been annihilated, it was
+found convenient to suppose that the marvellous wood possessed a secret
+power of vegetation, and that its substance, though continually
+diminished, still remained entire and unimpaired.’  That is enough.  It
+is unnecessary to carry our investigations any further.  The only relics
+in which I could believe were the spurs of that grand old crusader,
+Godfrey of Bouillon.  In that city of pretended sanctity, with its
+doubtful hallowed ground, it does one good to think of Campbell’s
+vigorous lines, never more applicable than now:
+
+    ‘To incantations dost thou trust,
+    And pompous rites in domes august?
+    See, mouldering stone and metal’s rust
+          Belie the vaunt
+    That man can bless one pile of dust
+          With chime or chaunt.’
+
+Be that as it may, all steps in Jerusalem are dogged with doubt.  You
+hear a great deal more than you can believe.  We tread on ruins and know
+what they are,—so far we can believe their testimony.  Yet the city is
+full of surpassing interest.  ‘After Rome,’ writes Dr. Russell Forbes, in
+his valuable little work, ‘The Holy City: its Topography, Walls, and
+Temples,’ ‘there is no city which appeals to the feelings like Jerusalem;
+the sympathy is deeper and stronger than that of Athens, which we place
+third on the list.  As the sympathy towards the Eternal City is derived
+from profane history, so as it were in opposition, one’s feelings toward
+the Holy City owe their origin to sacred history.  These two cities,
+sacred and profane, stand out boldly on the world’s surface like the
+figures in Titian’s celebrated picture—one appealing to the sun, the
+other to the wind.  The sacred is more ancient than the profane, and the
+wind of controversy has swept equally over both, while the spade of
+modern science has in each case confounded the sceptic and established
+the truth of the unbroken records of the past.’  That is putting the case
+rather strongly.  At any rate, in studying the topography of Ancient Rome
+the authorities are many.  In Jerusalem they are few—but the Bible,
+Josephus and the Talmud.  It is only of late that we got at the real
+Jerusalem.  It was not till explorations, surveys, and excavations were
+made that anything beyond tradition, mostly false, was known of the
+ancient city.  It is below its modern level that one has to trace the
+remains of the real Jerusalem.  As Byron wrote of Rome, so we may say of
+the Holy City:
+
+       ‘The Goth, the Christian, time, war, flood, and fire
+       Have dealt upon the seven-hilled city’s pride.
+       She saw her glories star by star expire,
+       And up the steep barbarian monarchs ride,
+       Where the car climbed the Capitol; far and wide,
+       Temple and tower went down, nor left a site:
+       Chaos of ruins! who shall trace the void,
+       O’er the dim fragments cast a lunar light,
+    And say, “Here was, or is,” where all is doubly night?’
+
+It was not till 1868 that the time arrived for cheap excursions to
+Jerusalem.  The credit of the idea is to be given to the late Mr. Thomas
+Cook.  In the time of the Crusades the bands which visited Palestine did
+so under a leader.  At a later date parties travelled in the form of a
+caravan.  Before visiting the lands of the Bible Mr. Cook consulted that
+eminent traveller and at one time popular author and lecturer, Mr. James
+Silk Buckingham, as to the best route,—and collected information from
+every available quarter.  Then he made the trip by himself in 1868.  On
+his return home he advertised a tour in Palestine and the Nile in the
+following spring.  Before a month had elapsed thirty-two ladies and
+gentlemen had taken tickets for the trip to the Nile and Palestine, and
+thirty to Palestine only; and now they come by the hundred at a time, so
+popular is the trip.  From the year 1868 up to 1891, 1,200 persons had
+visited Palestine under Cook’s protection.  Many of these travellers held
+high social positions, such as their Royal Highnesses the Duke of
+Edinburgh, the Duke of Clarence and Avondale, Prince George of Wales;
+their Imperial Highnesses the Grand Duke and Duchess Sergius, the Grand
+Duke Paul of Russia, the King of Servia, and other travellers of
+distinction.  It is a part of the business of the firm much patronized by
+American tourists and the clergy of all denominations.  Up to the time of
+the firm taking up the matter, travellers were at the mercy of savage
+chiefs, who made them pay dearly for the permission which they granted to
+pass through their districts.  These chiefs were as fickle as they were
+avaricious, and as dilatory as they were exacting.  All this vexatious
+delay has vanished.  When you start you are certain of arrival at the day
+indicated, and of being able to return in a similar manner.  Moreover,
+the element of danger has been eliminated.  You are safe in Jerusalem as
+in London—perhaps safer; for as there is always danger in the streets of
+London from hardened criminals and careless drivers of cabs and
+omnibuses, and the ever-increasing multitude of men and women who have
+taken to the bicycle—and ‘rush in where angels fear to tread.’
+
+Finally, after Omar and Saladin, Syria and Palestine were conquered by
+Selim, and since then, with the slight advent of the Crusaders, have
+formed part of the Turkish Empire.  The inhabitants complain a good deal
+of the injustice and corruption of the Turkish tax-gatherers, and I fancy
+not without reason; but that the city is prosperous and flourishing now
+is evident to the most superficial observer, from the number of new
+buildings erected in every direction.  I believe it is a fact that the
+number of people living outside the city is far greater than the
+population within.  It is a fashion to build schools and churches and
+convents everywhere, Russia in this respect standing ahead of the rest.
+I don’t care to go into the city.  What I see there is all fiction,
+hallowed, if you like, by the superstition of ages.  In the daytime all
+is noise and confusion.  The trader sits in his little shop in a narrow
+street, covered from the sun, and there the people collect in every
+variety of costume—some in rags and almost naked; others, like the cavass
+of some consulate, in a dark, showy dress, with a grand sword hanging
+from his thigh; but the prevailing fashion seems to be a brown or blue
+jacket hanging over a print skirt extending down to the feet.  Some are
+almost as black as niggers.
+
+Immense as is the traffic of the city and the noise and tumult by day,
+the silence by night is equally wonderful.  There is no living soul or
+body to be seen in the streets by night—nor a light; not even the bark of
+a dog is heard.  There is scarce a street in which you can walk
+comfortably either inside Jerusalem or outside.  There are stones
+everywhere to throw you down, and then there is the dust.  That deserves
+a chapter in itself.  It is simply awful.  There is a cartload of it
+inside me now.  It is white as snow; it fills the air; you can see
+nothing.  As we got out of the railway-station, and got into carriages to
+drive towards the hotel, we could not see an inch of the way on account
+of the dust.  To make it worse, the drivers all set out at full speed,
+and in the race to get in first it seemed to me that a collision was
+inevitable; however, happily, no casualty occurred.  A poor unfortunate
+donkey was run over—that was all.
+
+As an illustration of what the natives have to suffer under Turkish rule,
+let me give the following account of a gossip with a driver I met with.
+His father had died and left him a little property in the fertile plain
+of Sharon.  The man did all he could to improve it—fenced it with stones,
+dug it over and enriched the soil, planted olive-trees and dates, and
+then, when the crop was nearly ready, the Turkish taxpayer came and
+demanded a third of the estimated value, and got it.  In a fortnight
+after he was visited by the Bedouins, who took another third, and in the
+end the poor man had to give up his little farm.  The Turks are bad, but
+the lawless Bedouins who harry the land are infinitely worse.  For
+instance, one of our party drove down to Jericho by himself.  He got out
+to walk in one part of the road, and got ahead of his driver.
+Immediately he found himself surrounded by a crew of these ruffians.
+Happily, he had with him the American Consul’s cavass, who, seeing the
+position, came up with his [Picture: General view of Jerusalem from the
+Convent of the Sisters of Zion] loaded revolver, at the sight of which
+the gentleman was rescued, as the rascals fled.  There is no taming the
+Bedouin of the desert.  He only owns the rule of his sheikh.  The Turkish
+ruler of the province is afraid of him, and actually pays him a tribute
+to be allowed to send his yearly offering to Mecca.  No wonder the land
+is bare of life.  It is a wonder that there is any cultivation at all.
+The people are forced to live in villages, remote from one another, and
+there they defend themselves against the enemy as best they can.  You see
+nowhere a farmhouse, a cottage, or country house.  For miles and miles
+not a human habitation is visible.
+
+As most of us are sitting half asleep in the smoking-room after our
+mid-day meal, a wailing sound reaches my ears.  I rush to the window and
+see a funeral procession.  Someone has died in one of the houses above
+us, and they are bearing the dead body into the city for burial.  About
+100 men and women follow, wailing as they go, while on each side of the
+coffin—a very unsightly structure borne on a rude bier—walk the
+black-robed priests, evidently of the Greek Church.  The sight is not
+particularly imposing as the procession makes its way, while the world
+goes on selling and buying much as usual.  I pity the poor mourners and
+the priests as they move slowly along.  I know not, but perhaps the
+presence of so many priests may indicate that the deceased was a person
+of some consequence in his community.
+
+I resume my writing, and then a native comes in to rub off the white dust
+which has come in through the open window.  It is impossible to keep out
+the fine white dust, and all day the flies are equally troublesome.  I
+hear of some of the ladies being bitten by the mosquitoes, but the
+latter, happily, leave me alone.  The courteous manners of the dragomans
+who fill the hall of the hotel are amusing.  All of them seem much
+interested as to my health, and anxiously inquire how I slept.  As I
+write, Mr. Howard’s nephew is arranging the papers in the smoking-room; a
+native enters, who kisses the back of his hand with effusion—a [Picture:
+The Church of the Holy Sepulchre] pledge, I learn, of faithful service.
+As to the people in general, they seem to be mere drudges and to have
+little idea of amusement; amusement in the Holy City is not tolerated.
+Now and then you see in the narrow, darkened streets a few sitting round
+a hookah, enjoying a quiet smoke, but the people, dressed out in all the
+colours of the rainbow, plod up and down wearily in a never-ending
+stream, in pursuance of their daily tasks.  A good deal of building is
+going on outside the city walls.  There is no scaffolding, no hodman with
+bricks and mortar; the solid stone walls seem to grow up in the most
+hopeless confusion.  Of course you see no decent carriages.  Around the
+door of the hotel there is a daily collection of donkeys and horses and
+carriages, the last all white with dust and of the most rickety
+character.  One would think they would fall to pieces over the bad roads,
+almost as bad as those of Constantinople; but I hear of no accident,
+though it seems as you watch the flying crowd that one may occur at any
+moment.
+
+As I chat with my dragoman, I ask him if he is married.  His reply is
+that he cannot afford it; it would cost him £60 to get a wife.  Perhaps
+it were as well that the cost of a wife in England were as much; we might
+have fewer marriages of the kind that tend to misery and want.  The
+servants in the hotel seemed remarkably honest.  There was a lock to my
+door, but I could not get it to act, so my room remained unlocked, and I
+missed nothing, even when one morning I left my purse on the table,
+containing all my money, when I went to breakfast.  A breakfast consists
+of hot rolls, good coffee, and delicious honey.  At lunch the first
+course consists of olives, radishes, lemons and vegetables, which are
+supposed to create an appetite.  At dinner we have a wonderful lot of
+stewed flesh, and vegetables are often served up as a separate course.
+In the evening the hall is lighted up with many lamps, and the dealers
+come and turn it into a bazaar.  They are not above making a considerable
+reduction.  But really there is very little manufactured in Jerusalem—the
+Sacred City.  Oh, how I loathe the term as I tread the church of the
+reputed Holy Sepulchre—its stones slippery with the tread of millions of
+pilgrims in all ages, its sacred shrines worn away by the kisses of the
+faithful.  As I sit outside, a cripple comes to a pillar of the door, on
+which a cross has been rudely carved.  He kisses that cross and stands
+there praying.  Those poor devotees—how they kiss, and kneel, and crawl,
+and pray!
+
+The most interesting man I have seen is the Rev. Ben Oliel.  Born in
+Morocco in 1826, a man wonderfully active for his years, you would not
+take him to be more than sixty at the best.  At Tangiers he attended the
+Rabbinical schools, learning Spanish at home, Arabic out of doors, and
+Hebrew and Chaldee at school.  He speaks English with great readiness and
+fluency.  When eighteen years of age he read the New Testament for the
+first time, but his father took it away from him—however, not before a
+spirit of inquiry was raised in his mind.  In 1847, while visiting at
+Gibraltar, he became acquainted with a Christian friend, who gave him the
+‘Pilgrim’s Progress’ and ‘Keith on Prophecy’ to read.  From them he
+learnt that Jesus was the Messiah and the Saviour of men.  He then
+resolved to come to England to prepare to preach the Gospel to the Jews.
+The committee of the Society for the Promotion of Christianity among the
+Jews accepted his services, and sent him to labour in Gibraltar and North
+Africa.  During a visit to England in 1850 he translated the Gospel of
+St. Luke into Hebrew-Spanish, and also a number of tracts into Hebrew and
+Spanish.  In 1852 he was ordained to the ministry in Orange Street
+Chapel, London, by twelve ministers representing Presbyterian,
+Congregational, Baptist, and Lutheran Churches.  Shortly after he was
+recognised by the Presbytery of Edinburgh as a minister, and ordained a
+missionary of that church, and was sent to Thessalonica and Smyrna, where
+he established missions.  Later on his old society—the British—sent him
+to Algiers, when he succeeded in inducing his relatives to become
+Christians, who are now usefully employed in Christian work.  Mr. Ben
+Oliel has been twice married—first to a daughter of Rev. B. Lewis, a
+Baptist minister of London, and then, after a widowerhood of some years,
+to a sister of Mr. Seeley, Vicar of Clacton-on-Sea, and a cousin of
+Professor Seeley, author of ‘Ecce Homo.’
+
+We next find him in Spain.  In Cadiz he laboured with much success,
+sometimes having a congregation of 1,000 hearers.  He opened schools for
+both sexes, where he had as many as 360 children.  His success provoked
+the animosity and opposition of the Romish priests, who started a
+newspaper to put him down.  Thence, for reasons perfectly satisfactory,
+he returned to his old scene of labour in Algeria, and commenced a very
+successful mission at Oran.  From Oran he was sent to Rome to labour
+among the Jews, and then the question was put to him—would he go to
+Jerusalem?  To this question there could be only one, and that an
+affirmative, reply.  In the ancient city he is certainly the right man in
+the right place.  In the first place, he can converse in Hebrew with
+learned Jews and Rabbis, with whom the city is full.  It is a curious
+fact that Hebrew is fast becoming a living tongue in Jerusalem, as is
+evident from the fact that the only newspapers now published in Palestine
+are two weeklies in Jerusalem, both in the Hebrew tongue.  Another
+advantage Mr. Ben Oliel possesses is that he can talk to the Sephardim
+Spanish Jews in their own dialect; and they, it seems, are the most
+ancient in the city and the most easy of access; and then, again, as an
+undenominationalist, he has provided an upper room, where he holds an
+English service on a Sunday, sometimes attended by as many as 100
+English-speaking travellers from all parts of the world.  His work is now
+entirely supported by friends, especially Americans, who sympathize in
+his aim.  He has no great society at his back; he fights on his own
+behalf, in faith that the supplies when needed will come.  In his work he
+is greatly aided by his devoted wife and daughter, who have established
+schools—one of them a sewing-class of girls, to which I paid a visit.
+
+In his schools Mr. Oliel met with great opposition from the Jewish
+Rabbis.  They held a conference on the subject.  The outcome of their
+conference was seen the following Saturday.  Great and solemn warning was
+preached in every synagogue at morning prayer to the Jews not to continue
+going to the Christians, and earnest pleading with them to put an end to
+this sin in Israel.  On the doors of all synagogues, inside and outside
+town, were placards, some of which were handed to individuals.  Here is a
+translation of one:
+
+    ‘Inasmuch as we hear that two schools of the English have been
+    opened, one inside and the other outside the town, and women, sons
+    and daughters of the Israelite people are going to them, and
+    according to the information that reaches us they are stumbling in
+    the sin of idolatry, for above all they are required to believe in
+    their religion, as their conditions, as it is heard; we heard and our
+    bowels trembled, how can it be that because of straits we should
+    forsake our faith, God forbid, and believe in the sin of idolatry,
+    and the end will be that in a short time they will abandon the Holy
+    Law and turn to the law of the Protestants, God forbid, whose whole
+    interest is to tempt and push precious souls of Israel and bring them
+    to their faith, thereupon they are told in the name of the _First in
+    Zion_, and in the name of the exalted Rabbis, even _all the fathers
+    of the House of Judges_, _the righteous_, and in the name of all the
+    Rabbis, that from this day forward, after we have given them to
+    understand the heavy forbidden thing they are doing—certain that
+    Israel are holy—they should withdraw and not go to those places,
+    neither women nor young men, nor girls or little children at all, and
+    let them trust in the Blessed be His Name, who feeds and nourishes
+    all, and to whom is the power and the greatness, and let them not
+    think for a moment of benefit, whose end is bitter like poison of
+    losing their Judaism, God forbid; and no benefit will they derive
+    from those cents, and keep this exhortation before their eyes
+    continually all the days; and in eight days from to-day those schools
+    will be found empty, that no Jew’s foot shall tread in them any more,
+    which we shall hear and rejoice, and if, which God forbid, that time
+    arriving and any still continue to go, let them know assuredly that
+    as they sought to separate themselves from the community of the
+    people of Israel, we also therefore will endeavour with all our
+    strength to separate from them.  If sons are born to them, there will
+    be no one to circumcise them, if any get married, there will be no
+    one to give the nuptial blessings.  If any die, they will not be
+    buried with the Jews.  The women will not be married to Jews.  To
+    young men no Jewesses will be given.  They will be a separate people.
+    We trust that from this day forward they will withdraw from the said
+    schools, and despise them as unclean, and will not go near their
+    doors; and will have trust in God, exalted be His Name, preferring to
+    starve to death as Jews, and not arrive to this measure [of
+    punishment].  And let them not suppose that we shall be silent, but
+    we shall persecute them to the bitter end as far as our hands can
+    reach.
+
+                                             ‘Blessing to those who obey.’
+                                                  Seal of the Chief Rabbi.
+
+    Seal of the Judges.
+
+Considering that the Rabbis have considerable sums of money sent them
+from abroad to distribute among the poor every month, and that many
+houses are given to the worthy penniless free of rent for several years,
+it is no wonder that the parents of the little ones were afraid to
+disobey their tyrannic rulers, and kept their children away from the
+school.
+
+I find the Y.M.C.A. have a branch here, founded by Mr. Hind Smith in
+1890, and are doing useful work, and just outside the Jaffa Gate is a
+depot for the sale of Bibles.  But I have been somewhat astonished at the
+bitter, exclusive spirit displayed in some quarters where I might have
+hoped for better things.  It is difficult for a Jew to make a profession
+of Christianity.  If he does so, he has to leave the place at once.  The
+strong caste spirit among the Jews is also very great.  The high caste
+will not associate with the men of a lower caste.  But where people dare
+not go to the recognised agencies for Jewish conversion, many come to Mr.
+Oliel for a chat, and Turks as well.  Such missionary work as he does
+seems to be of the right stamp and worthy of British support.  An
+increasing interest is being taken in Jerusalem, though, alas! I cannot
+say with the Psalmist, ‘Thy servants take pleasure in her stones and
+favour the dust thereof.’  They are my stumbling-block by night and day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+BETHLEHEM.
+
+The one spot in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem which one must visit is
+Bethlehem, the birthplace of the Christ, the music of whose voice and the
+lustre of whose life have brightened and bettered all the ages, dark and
+dreary as many of them have been, ever since.  It is difficult to visit
+such a place alone; it is impossible to visit it in company with a
+garrulous and credulous crowd.  I had for companions an esteemed
+clergyman from Leeds and an Oxford scholar, a man of infinite learning
+and wit.  There had been rain overnight, and the dust was not so much of
+a nuisance as it generally is, and, besides, we had a refreshing breeze.
+We did the whole trip between breakfast and lunch.  Starting in one of
+the shabby-looking carriages—the only available vehicle in these parts,
+which one expects to break down every minute—drawn by a couple of
+half-starved steeds, it rattled along over the stones at a speed for
+which one was scarcely prepared.  On my way I learned a fact that I may
+not have mentioned before—viz., that at Constantinople the Sultan had
+given special orders for the comfort of the excursionists arriving in the
+_Midnight Sun_ by placing a guard of soldiers around the ship to keep off
+the crowd, and by giving special orders that the party were to be
+everywhere received with courtesy and respect.  As regards myself, seeing
+that not very long since the Sultan had ordered one of my books to be
+burnt, I must own that I felt his conduct in this matter to redound very
+much to his credit.
+
+We leave our hotel by the road running to the right from outside the
+Jaffa Gate, and admire very much the long range of neat almshouses built
+for the poor Jews by the late Sir Moses Montefiore, leaving the Hill of
+Evil Counsel to the left, and the pretty, red-roofed, clean-looking
+village inhabited by the German Templars’ community to the right.  Then
+the road passes by the Valley of Rephaim on the right, where David fought
+twice with the Philistines and conquered them, the signal for the battle
+the second time being given by a ‘going in the tops of the
+mulberry-trees,’ which betokened the presence of the Lord.  A round stone
+on the left denotes the well in which, when quenching their thirst, the
+Wise Men from the East beheld once more reflected in its waters, to their
+‘exceeding great joy,’ the star which led them in search of the new-born
+King of the Jews.  On our left is the convent of Mar Elias, now occupied
+by a brotherhood belonging to the Greek Church.  Far off on our right is
+Giloh, white and glittering in the sun, where dwelt Ahithophel, the
+Gilonite, David’s counsellor.  It is now a village inhabited exclusively
+by Christians.
+
+Again, on our right, we come to Rachel’s Tomb, at a point where the great
+highroad to Hebron is left for the road to Bethlehem.  There is no
+dispute as to the identity of Rachel’s tomb; at any rate, for ages the
+same legend has been connected with the spot.  For hundreds of years the
+site was marked by a pyramid of twelve stones, placed there for the
+twelve tribes of Israel.  The present monument, built by the Moslems, is
+white—as every building is in this part of the world—an oblong erection,
+with a small dome on the top.  One of my learned friends points to the
+whiteness of [Picture: Bethlehem.  (From a Photograph by Fradelle and
+Young)] the limestone which lines all the roads, and which is utilized in
+all the buildings, whether private or public, as an illustration of the
+falsehood of the legend connected with the home of Our Lady of Loretto,
+which, according to monkish legend, flew all the way from Palestine to
+Italy, where yet it remains.  The stone of that building is red, a
+significant proof of the falsehood of the tale.  The next point of
+interest is David’s Well, in commemoration of the incident recorded in
+Samuel, when the Philistines being in possession of the town, and David
+in a hold in or near Cave Adullam, he said: ‘Oh that one would give me
+drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, which is by the gate!  And
+the three mighty men brake through the host of the Philistines, and drew
+water out of the well of Bethlehem, which was by the gate, and took it
+and brought it to David; nevertheless, he would not drink thereof, but
+poured it out unto the Lord.  And he said . . .  Is not this the blood of
+the men that went in jeopardy of their lives?’
+
+And now I am in Bethlehem—not a simple country village, as many imagine,
+but a densely-populated town, with winding, narrow ways, where men and
+women and children, camels, donkeys, and carriages, seem mixed up in wild
+disorder.  On every side we are shut in with habitations—stony, bare of
+windows, built high up, with here and there a shop, but chiefly with a
+simple door on the ground-floor; and then we dash into the market-place,
+and apparently it is market-day, and half of the open space is filled
+with buyers and sellers in many-coloured garments of the East; and down
+on us come the guides and small pedlars, shrieking, ejaculating,
+spluttering in broken English, just as Byron tells us the Assyrian came
+down like the wolf on the fold.
+
+We enter the Church of the Nativity, regarded as the very oldest specimen
+of Christian architecture; and a very ugly building it is.  In one of the
+remote quarters I came to an old stone font, bearing the inscription:
+‘For the memory, repose and forgiveness of sinners, of whom the Lord
+knows the name.’  Here, in 1161, Baldwin was crowned King of Jerusalem.
+Look up at the roof as you pass along, of pure wood and lead, furnished
+in 1482 by Edward IV. of England and Philip of Burgundy.  The
+guardianship of the church is divided among Greeks, Armenians, and
+Latins.  We are supplied with tapers, and go down in the cave where the
+Christ was born.  A little further on is the place of the manger in which
+He was laid.  In another section of the cave, all hewn out of the solid
+rock, Joseph is said to have slept when he was warned by God in a dream
+to take Mary and her child and fly into Egypt.  Again, we are shown the
+spot where the children massacred by King Herod were interred.  Fifteen
+lamps perpetually illuminate the subterranean Church of the Nativity,
+near which is the Altar of the Adoration, which commemorates the visit of
+the Magi.  Amidst darkness visible we make our way to the cave in which
+St. Jerome wrote his great work, the translation of the Hebrew Bible into
+the Vulgate or Latin tongue.  It is a dark and dreary spot, and near by
+we are shown his tomb.  One can scarce credit the story of his having
+done such work in such a corner, or believe that there he lived to reach
+the ripe age of ninety-two.  A year in such a spot would be enough to
+kill an ordinary orthodox Christian in these degenerate days.  I make my
+exit speedily into the upper air.  I have seen enough for one day; no
+lying legend can tempt me further.  The enormous pile of churches built
+up over the sacred sites, and inhabited by priests of rival Churches, who
+hate each other like poison, are too much for me.
+
+Bethlehem is the market-place of the Dead Sea Bedouins, and also of the
+numerous small towns and villages in the vicinity, and has besides some
+nourishing manufactures of its own.  Its inhabitants are almost
+exclusively Christian.  The people are chiefly employed in the production
+of embroidered dresses, and in carving in a beautiful way
+mother-of-pearl.  I hear that they are an intelligent and industrious
+people, and that there are plenty of schools for the children.  The women
+are said to be fair, but I see none such.  On our way back we are shown
+the Field of the Shepherds, sloping up a neighbouring hill.  It was there
+the angel of the Lord appeared to them as they watched their sheep by
+night.  We pass by also the Pools of Solomon—three reservoirs made by the
+great King for supplying the inhabitants of Jerusalem with water.  All
+the country round is a scene of great activity, as is evident from the
+enormous amount of terraces to be seen everywhere planted with the
+universal olive-tree.  But at this time we see nothing but stones, with
+here and there a few black goats climbing the mountain-sides; all life
+seems to have withered up under the scorching sun.  The Wells of Solomon
+contain no water, the hills no sign of vegetation.  They are dry, and so
+are we.
+
+On the whole, after my visit to Bethlehem, I quite agree with an American
+writer—the Rev. Mr. Tompkins—in his remarks on the church built by the
+Empress Helena.  While vast, imposing, and suggestive of past glory, it
+is a fitting monument of that kind of Christianity which, let us hope, is
+relegated to the past.  No instance of an enormous expensive building
+could show more clearly the folly of erecting to God that which has no
+earthly use.  Unless men can see in future ages that Christianity is for
+man, and not for God, I fancy that religion will perish from the earth.
+To-day one stands in this edifice, which in point of size is justly
+comparable with any church in the world, and wonders what rash folly ever
+possessed the Empress to waste so much money.  It is so dreary, so cold,
+so deserted, so utterly the shell of Christianity, that Christianity
+seems a very farce right here where it began.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+THE JEW IN JERUSALEM.
+
+One of the most interesting evenings I spent in Jerusalem was in
+listening to a lecture by Dr. Wheeler, of the English Hospital in the
+city, who is now seeking to build a hospital for the Jews there.  He is
+also, I believe, connected with the London Society which is seeking to
+bring over the Jew to the knowledge of the Messiah, a task by no means
+easy, as the conviction of the Jew—that the promised Messiah is yet to
+come—is not easily to be dispelled.  I came over with a converted Jew—a
+clergyman in London.  His parents, who were wealthy, lived in Jerusalem.
+In order to become a Christian he had to sacrifice all his worldly
+prospects, and aroused such bitter enmity on the part of his relatives
+that, though he had made the journey for the sake of seeing his dying
+mother, he almost despaired of an interview, and had to wait five days
+before his object was achieved.
+
+But to return to Dr. Wheeler.  He has been at work in Jerusalem eleven
+years, and his knowledge of the state of the Jews is profound.  The Jews,
+he told us, in Palestine may be roughly divided into four classes: The
+Ashkenazim, comprising the fair-haired, sallow German Jew, the Russian,
+Polish, American, etc., who speak Yiddish, and enjoy the protection of
+the consuls of the countries to which they belong; the Sephardim, or
+Spanish Jews, many of whom still wear the black turban imposed on them by
+the mad Caliph Halim; the Gemenites, who have only recently come to the
+land—they are dark, and wear their hair in side-curls; and the Karaites,
+a sect which sprang up about the eighth century.  These reject the Talmud
+and deny the authority of the Oral Law; they are few in number, and have
+but one small synagogue; the orthodox religious Jews have no religious
+intercourse with them, and regard them as heretics.  The Ashkenazim adapt
+themselves to any costume.  The Sephardim all wear the dignified and
+beautiful Oriental costume.  All unite in wearing the love-locks.  As to
+the women, they all dress in Oriental costume, and wear their heads
+covered.  On the Sabbath they are all dressed in their best.  Charms are
+worn on the heads and foreheads and necks of young children, and a sprig
+of green is worn also as a charm against the evil eye.  The Rabbis
+generally wear long flowing robes, trimmed with fur, and also a turban.
+
+Specially-appointed Rabbis see that the food is properly prepared, as
+everything must be _kosha_, or legally clean.  Milk must not be taken
+before or after meat.  No Christian food on any account may be consumed;
+even eggs cooked in Christian pots are refused.  Only Jewish wine may be
+drunk, and if a bottle of it is only touched by a Christian it becomes
+unclean.  The social and religious life of the Jew is identical.  The
+birth of a son causes great rejoicing, and improves the social status of
+the mother.  Circumcision on the eighth day, if the child is strong
+enough, is a holy festival.  After eighteen all Jews are expected to
+marry.  Although facilities of divorce are large, they are not often
+resorted to.
+
+One is struck, said Dr. Wheeler, in living among Jews, with the fact that
+religion amongst them is not only a creed or an act of observance, but
+that it pervades every relationship and dominates every phase of life.
+The Sabbath is the pivot round which family life moves.  It is a day of
+real rejoicing, accompanied by a complete suspension of work.  It begins
+with the cup of blessing, of wine mixed with water, of which all partake.
+The Sabbath lamp is lit.  No burial is allowed on that day.  No
+phylacteries are worn while the Cohenites give the Aaronic blessing—‘The
+Lord bless thee and keep thee,’ etc.  Visiting the sick has great merit.
+According to the Talmud, eleven visits to the sick will release a soul
+from Gehenna.  All are enjoined to follow funerals, and to pay honour to
+the remains of the dead.  After death the body is allowed to remain
+awhile unburied.  The creed of the Jew is as ancient as the beginning of
+history.  With it are connected the triumphs and struggles and defeats of
+ages.  What strange and opposite feelings has the name of Jew created!
+What appalling deeds have been perpetrated in connection with his name!
+The Jew is in every sense, as Dr. Wheeler eloquently told us, the marvel
+of history—the wonder of the ages—the anomaly of nations.  So it has been
+for upwards of 4,000 years.  He is Heaven’s great witness on earth of
+earth’s righteous King in heaven.  Nations have risen and fallen.  Mighty
+empires have crumbled to decay.  Assyria, Greece, Carthage, where are
+they?  Yet the Jew—scattered, despised, persecuted, and trampled under
+foot—has never disappeared.  Nay, more, he has risen to be a light and
+guide to the nations; and many are the statesmen and artists and
+philosophers who have had Jewish blood in their veins.  And yet, say
+certain good people, the Jews are under a curse.  Well, perhaps they
+are—when poor.  Poor people, it seems to me, are under a curse all the
+world over.  To the Jews, Jerusalem is the one holy city, and here they
+come to die and be buried in its sacred soil.  Wealthy Jews in all parts
+of the world give freely for charity and for charitable purposes, and it
+is this wealth that brings so many poor Jews to Jerusalem.  By these
+benefactors Jewish children are educated gratuitously.  They have three
+synagogues, all very ancient, and the beautiful pale-green dome of one of
+them is a conspicuous feature in the view of Jerusalem from the Mount of
+Olives.  Jews, because they persecuted the Christ, are not allowed to
+pass before the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  They are also still
+rigorously excluded from the Moslem sanctuary, where it is said stood
+King Solomon’s Temple in all its glory, though Christians have been
+admitted of late years to this jealously-guarded spot, containing as it
+does the Dome of the Rock—a very precious spot in Moslem eyes.  Alas!
+everywhere the Jew in Jerusalem has to come in contact with ‘the pig of a
+Turk,’ as he contemptuously calls him.  I wonder the wealthy Jews do not
+buy Jerusalem or Palestine itself of the Sultan, who, however, does all
+he can to keep the Jews from returning there to live and die.
+Notwithstanding the place it fills in the world’s history, the country is
+a small one.  As it is, the Jews in Jerusalem have the greater part of
+the trade of the city in their hands.  They own the shops and the cabs,
+and their numbers increase every day, very much, as I have said, against
+the wishes of the Sultan himself.
+
+It is an awful history, that of the Jew in Jerusalem, of incessant revolt
+on the part of the people, of incessant conquest and massacre on the part
+of the sanguinary conquerors.  Again and again the Jew seemed on the
+brink of extermination.  Nebuchadnezzar, Antiochus, Titus, Hadrian,
+successively exerted their utmost power to extinguish, not merely the
+political existence of the State, but even the separate being of the
+people.  Hadrian, to annihilate for ever, writes Dean Milman, all hopes
+of the restoration of the Jewish kingdom, accomplished his plan of
+founding a new city on the site of Jerusalem, peopled by a colony of
+foreigners.  The city was called Ælia Capitolina: Ælia after the prænomen
+of the Emperor, Capitolina as dedicated to the Jupiter of the Capitol.
+An edict was published to prevent any Jew from entering the new city
+under pain of death, or approaching its environs even at a distance so as
+to contemplate its sacred height.  More effectually to keep them away,
+the image of a swine was placed over the gate leading to Bethlehem.  The
+more peaceful Christians were permitted to establish themselves within
+the walls, and Ælia became the seat of a flourishing church and
+bishopric.  At a later period Julian the Apostate—as the ecclesiastical
+writers term one of the noblest men who ever wore the imperial
+purple—embraced the extraordinary design of rebuilding the Temple of
+Jerusalem.  In a public epistle to the nation or community of the Jews,
+he pities their misfortunes, condemns their oppressors, praises their
+constancy, declares himself their gracious protector, and hopes, after
+his return from the Persian war, he may be permitted to pay his grateful
+vows to the Almighty in the holy city of Jerusalem.  The Jews from every
+part of the world gave freely to assist this pious enterprise.  According
+to the Christian writers, Heaven interfered, and the Temple was left
+unbuilt.  This glorious deliverance was speedily improved by the pious
+art of the clergy of Jerusalem and the active credulity of the Christian
+world.  It is evident, as Gibbon remarks, the restoration of the Jewish
+Temple was secretly connected with the ruin of the Christian Church, a
+Church for which Julian had little love.  From the confessions of Jerome
+himself, Jerusalem seemed saturated with every form of vice and crime.
+
+They tell me the Jew is blind because he is waiting for the coming
+Messiah, but, I ask, are we not all waiting for a coming Messiah?  And
+the sooner He comes the better for all of us, Jew and Gentile alike.  If
+the Jew is waiting for a coming Messiah, that is surely to his
+credit—that he remains true to the teaching of his fathers—and shows him
+to be no more blind than those of us who piously await the dawn of a
+millennium, which, according to all human appearances, seems as far off
+as ever.  When the Turkish Empire breaks up, it will be no easy matter
+how to settle in whose hands Jerusalem shall be placed.  There may be a
+terrible fight about the Holy City yet.
+
+It is now the fashion for everyone to rush to Jerusalem.  At one time to
+go there required no little expenditure of money, and time, and trouble.
+An excursion-steamer takes you there for a trifle compared with the
+expense of the journey only a few years ago.  You land at Jaffa, take the
+train to Jerusalem, and in due time find yourself outside the Jaffa Gate,
+guarded by Turkish soldiers.  Amidst a dirty, many-coloured mob of
+donkeys, camels, and people, exhausted by the heat, suffocated by the
+dust, and bewildered by the noise, you are at the Holy City, as lying
+superstition terms it.  It certainly is not Jerusalem the golden, but is
+very much the reverse.  Its smells are indescribable, and to drink its
+water is death.  Your first wonder is why David and Solomon should ever
+have made it a royal residence at all.  It is a city set upon a hill, but
+it is dominated by hills all round, where no verdure is seen, and where
+the black goat alone finds a scanty existence.  Climb one of these hills,
+and you look down on the gray, stony city, surrounded by a high wall,
+over which rise minarets, and mosques, and church spires in wild
+confusion.  There is nothing to charm the eye there.  Enter through one
+of the gates, and you are still more disappointed.  You wander in
+hopeless confusion, shut in on all sides by lofty buildings, with no
+windows to speak of, only here and there a door; or you plunge into a
+street with a dark awning, which serves as a bazaar, with shops of all
+kinds around, where so dense is the crowd that it is with difficulty you
+make your way.  Poverty seems to be the prevailing characteristic of the
+place.  Even the shops fail to attract.
+
+Money is the one thing Jerusalem sucks in as a thirsty soul does water
+when it comes, and many well-meaning people find there a living prepared
+for them who would otherwise have to starve.  As to the real state of the
+people you never hear a word.  The Turkish tax-gatherer may grind them
+down.  The wild Bedouin of the desert may come and take what the
+tax-gatherer has left.  But you hear nothing of that, and the daily topic
+of conversation among the European settlers is the repetition of dogma
+and the fulfilment of prophecy.  It is not till you have cleared out,
+taken the rail to Jaffa, and sail along the blue waters of the
+Mediterranean, that you get rid of the nightmare, have done with cant,
+and once more breathe free.
+
+The fact is, the Holy City is one gigantic fraud.  All we know is that
+there Christ lived and laboured and suffered and died.  Not a stone
+remains of the Jerusalem over whose impending fate He shed bitter tears.
+The cunning of an interested priesthood has done all the rest, from the
+discovery of the true cross by the mother of Constantine, to the holy
+fire which is seen at Easter by a panting, perspiring crowd in the Church
+of the Holy Sepulchre.  The town itself covers an area of more than 209
+acres, of which thirty-five are occupied by the Haram-esh-Sherif.  The
+remaining space is occupied by Christians, Mohammedans, and Jews.
+
+The Greek Church is the strongest branch of the Christians in Jerusalem,
+having eighteen monasteries, with schools, churches, a hospital, hospice,
+and a printing press.  The Russian church on the Mount of Olives is the
+grandest ecclesiastical building in the city of the modern type.  The
+Roman Catholics have fine churches, monasteries, and convents.  The
+Armenian Patriarch resides in his convent between the Jaffa and Zion
+gates.  The Latins, Abyssinians, and Copts are also well represented.
+The Knights Templars of the Holy Sepulchre, a Roman Catholic body under
+the patronage of the Emperor of Austria, have a fine convent just outside
+the walls.  Priests, and nuns, and sisters of mercy, and devotees, meet
+you at every turn.
+
+One ought to go to Jerusalem if only to see what priests can build up on
+small foundations, and to what length superstition can be carried, even
+in what are termed days of light and progress.  In this respect the Turk
+is as great a sinner as the Christian, and tells you how at the
+resurrection the risen will have to cross the Valley of Jehosaphat by a
+bridge of the Prophet’s hair, from which the wicked will fall straight to
+Gehenna, while to the righteous heaven, with its houris, will open its
+diamond gates.  You see in Jerusalem what you see nowhere else, a city
+built up by religion, true or false.
+
+In a letter from the Rev. Ben Oliel to a friend, he says:
+
+    ‘You want to know what is (1) the actual population of Jerusalem; (2)
+    the Jewish population in it; and (3) the number of Jews in all
+    Palestine.
+
+    ‘The Turkish Government, like that of other lands, has its
+    statistical “bureau”—office; but whatever may be its success in the
+    European provinces of the empire, here in Asia its computations are
+    believed to be imperfect, unreliable, and mainly guesswork.  The
+    conscription and consequent tax for exemption from military service
+    operate against it.  The heads of the several religious
+    communities—Turkish or Moslem, Jewish, Latin, Greek, Armenian, Copt,
+    Maronite, Melchite, etc.—who co-operate in the census, have powerful
+    motives to frustrate exactitude, for it means a larger annual
+    taxation, for which they are made responsible; and, apart from this,
+    the inhabitants have strong prejudices against being numbered.
+    Therefore, all estimates of population are merely approximate, and
+    nothing more.
+
+    ‘A young Jew of the highest family in this city, who is employed in
+    offices of trust in the Pasha’s court and has access to official
+    records, a convert of this mission, who confessed his faith in the
+    Lord Jesus on October 27, tells me that in official circles the
+    population of Jerusalem, including its suburbs—Bethlehem, Bethany,
+    the Mount of Olives, etc.—is now computed at 100,000, of which 60,000
+    are believed to be Jews; and he declares my estimate of the general
+    population of Jerusalem and its immediate suburbs at from 65,000 to
+    70,000, and the Jewish at about 40,000, to be far too low.  He is
+    custodian of the roll of the Sephardim poor—widows, orphans, blind
+    and decrepit old men and their families—amounting to 7,000 souls,
+    that have to be provided for regularly; and yet the Ashkenazim
+    constitute the majority of the Jewish inhabitants of Jerusalem now,
+    and they have a roll of poor as large proportionately.  He says the
+    Sephardim pay £1,000 annually for exemption from military service,
+    and the Ashkenazim £1,250, which, at the rate of two _medjidis_ per
+    head, represents 5,625 men of the age liable to service.  Jewish
+    families are prolific, and must therefore be calculated at seven
+    rather than five per family, and if one in each family is liable to
+    service, the result is 39,375 souls.  But this has reference to the
+    Jewish _rayahs_—Turkish subjects; whereas there is a large admixture
+    of those under Russian, Austrian, German, etc., protection, who are
+    free from taxation, military or other.  By such a process of
+    reasoning his estimate of 60,000 Jews for Jerusalem is almost proved
+    mathematically.
+
+    ‘I have before me Luncz’s First Hebrew Almanack for the Jewish year
+    1895–96, an interesting compilation; it gives the population of
+    Jerusalem thus: “Number of inhabitants 45,420, of which Jews 28,112
+    (viz., Ashkenazim 15,074, Sephardim 7,900, Mughrabim 2,420, Gurgis
+    670, Bucharis 530, Tamanites 1,288, Persians 230); Moslems 8,560;
+    Christians 8,748 (viz., Armenians 695, Greeks 4,625, Abyssinians 105,
+    Syrians 23, Protestants 645, Catholics or Latins 2,530, Copts 125).”
+    He does not say so, but he can only mean the population _inside the
+    walls_.’
+
+As an illustration of the difficulties awaiting the Jew who is led to
+renounce Judaism, I quote from a convert’s letter a few particulars:
+
+    ‘I will briefly say that I commenced the journey of life in Jerusalem
+    as son of one of the first Jewish families that found their way back
+    to the fatherland.  According to the custom of our people, my dear
+    mother sent me to school when I was only two.  I sat at the feet of
+    our Rabbi school-teachers until I was twelve; then I studied the
+    Rabbis’ commentaries and had an Arab tutor.  At thirteen years of age
+    I entered the Seraya, or Government House of Jerusalem.  I studied to
+    be an Arabic and Turkish scribe, and attended the Jewish school to
+    learn French.
+
+    ‘In the Government House there are three judges appointed to
+    represent respectively the Christian, Jewish, and Moslem citizens.
+    My uncle is the Jewish judge.  At sixteen I became one of the scribes
+    of the Chief Justice, and two years ago his assistant secretary.
+
+    ‘When I used to visit Jaffa I heard about Mr. Ben Oliel from many
+    Jews who frequented his house for discussion and study of God’s Word.
+    In 1890 he came up to Jerusalem, and at last I met him.  The first
+    time that I called upon him I was in company with my father, my uncle
+    the judge, the son of the Chief Rabbi, and another Rabbi, one of the
+    judges of the Jewish Court.
+
+    ‘The Chief Rabbi appoints twelve judges, who each serve a term of
+    three months every year, and every dispute between Jews must first be
+    brought before them, and, if needs be, is referred by them to the
+    Turkish Court.’
+
+In time the writer became a Christian and was baptized.  He adds:
+
+    ‘It was my desire to get the training that would make me a good
+    Christian teacher, but I could not travel without a passport, and
+    could not get this except through the application of my father, who,
+    instead, gave strict orders that no passport should be made for me.
+    After a year of vain endeavour, I was able to persuade a friend who
+    was in the office where they are written, on the score of friendship,
+    to give me a _tishcara_, or local passport, which, however, he did
+    not dare to record; off in the country it served me well.  My plan
+    was to start on a trip through the country and seize any opportunity
+    that might offer of getting to Egypt.  I started from the Damascus
+    Gate, my faithful horse being my only companion.  We travelled first
+    to Nablous, the ancient Sichem, and finding that the Samaritans were
+    soon to keep their passover, I waited to see their celebrated
+    sacrifice.  Each family took a lamb, and they went out and pitched
+    their tents on Mount Gerizim before the tomb of Sichem, the son of
+    Hamor, whom they hold in great reverence, and camped out there for
+    eight days.  On the first day their high-priest sacrificed a lamb for
+    each family, and every day he himself mixed the unleavened cakes.
+    Leaving Nablous, I struck across country till I came to an Arab
+    village on the Jordan, and then followed its course until I came to
+    Tiberias.  Along this part of the country many of the villagers knew
+    me, and wherever I was acquainted they entertained me freely with
+    their proverbial hospitality.  At one Bedouin encampment they
+    insisted on roasting an entire sheep.  This they did in a very
+    primitive fashion.  They dug a ditch in the earth, and made fire
+    within it until it was very hot, and then, removing the fire, they
+    laid the lamb, well seasoned, on the hot ashes, and then buried it
+    for a couple of hours.  It then made a very savoury dish, of which we
+    all partook, dipping into the same dish.
+
+    ‘Tiberias is one of the four sacred cities of the Jews, and there I
+    found a large number residing.  It is also a favourite resort because
+    of its hot springs of healing qualities.  I had left Jerusalem almost
+    ill, and so was very glad to take a course of baths here.
+
+    ‘From Tiberias I journeyed towards Nazareth, and visited the Tomb of
+    Jethro, near the horns of Hassau, where probably our Lord preached
+    His wondrous Sermon on the Mount.  At Nazareth I was hospitably
+    entertained at the Latin Convent, and a priest showed me all the
+    sights of the town.  Next day 400 or 500 French pilgrims arrived, and
+    I shared their entertainment.
+
+    ‘After three days I resumed my journey, with the intention of
+    embarking at Haifa and passing on to Egypt without being seen at
+    Jaffa.’
+
+And in due time the writer made his escape, and was welcomed in America,
+mainly owing to the assistance of Mr. Ben Oliel, who had been the means
+of his conversion.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+ALEXANDRIA.
+
+We left Jaffa on the Monday, and in twenty-four hours after were landed
+at Alexandria.  Alexandria is not a desirable place to land at;
+travellers have to trust generally to native boatmen, who are a race of
+robbers.  For instance, an American gentleman described to me how it
+fared with him on attempting to land a few years since.  He and a friend
+made a bargain with a respectable man to put them ashore.  He called a
+boatman, into whose boat they got with their luggage.  No sooner had the
+man rowed a little way from the ship than he stopped and demanded the
+instant payment of a sum four times the amount that had been agreed upon.
+The travellers said they had made an agreement with his master, and he
+was bound to carry it out.  He replied that he had no master; that the
+boat was his, that the oars were his, and that he would neither take them
+back to the ship nor row them ashore unless they complied with his
+request.  One of the gentlemen had a revolver, which he held at the
+rascal’s head, telling him to prepare for instant death.  The man
+sullenly obeyed, but no sooner had he reached the shore than he landed
+and preferred against the travellers a charge of attempting to murder
+him.  The affair promised to be serious, but it was discovered by the
+judge that the revolver was not loaded, nor ever had been loaded, and the
+travellers were at length allowed to depart in peace.  I heard of another
+case of a Frenchman shooting his boatman, who refused to fulfil his
+contract.  In my case, happily, I landed on the quay, and had no trouble
+with the boatmen at all.
+
+At length I am fairly landed in the land of the Pharaohs—a land whose
+records are engraved in stones, and date thousands of years before the
+birth of Christ.  You see nothing of Alexandria till you approach it, and
+then it spreads out before you in all its charm, from Pharos, the most
+ancient lighthouse in the world, on one side, to Pompey’s Pillar on the
+other.  Soon after I land at the quay, I make my way to the
+railway-station in a carriage and pair, for which I had agreed to pay a
+shilling.  At the station the driver has the impudence to demand two
+shillings, which I refuse to give, whilst a dragoman, who has fastened
+himself on to me, though I have attempted to get rid of him, demands a
+shilling for his unnecessary attendance.  I offer him threepence; he is
+indignant.  ‘I am a dragoman,’ he exclaims in an angry tone.  ‘What do
+you take me for?’  At length I give him sixpence, and he goes away in
+peace.  I smoke my first pipe of excellent Egyptian tobacco, swallow a
+tiny cup of coffee, all sugar and grounds, and survey the scene from the
+outside of the excellent railway-station, which is a credit to the city.
+Every minute a blacking boy begs me to let him clean my boots, but as I
+need not his services they are declined.  On my way I have seen every
+sign of industry and wealth: spacious shops, and a fine square adorned
+with handsome houses, and with a good statue of Ibrahim Pasha—the man to
+whom modern Egypt owes its first dawn of revived prosperity.  The
+municipal authorities of the place have [Picture: Pompey’s Pillar,
+Alexandria] done much to promote its prosperity.  The traveller will find
+it to his advantage to stop here a day or two.  The hotels are excellent,
+and, with one exception, by no means dear.  The harbour is full of
+shipping and steamers, and the number of trains laden with merchandise
+running between Cairo and Alexandria seems incessant.  The
+railway-carriages are an immense improvement on those which take you from
+Jaffa to Jerusalem.  Alexandria has a population of over 300,000, and its
+prosperity has greatly increased of late.  The English reside principally
+at Ramleh, five miles off, to which there is a local train service.  On
+your way you pass the battlefield between the English and the French,
+where our General, Sir Ralph Abercrombie, lost his life in the hour of
+victory.
+
+Commerce seems to have had her birthplace in Egypt.  In the time of
+Joseph, we read, all countries came there to buy corn.  Fifteen hundred
+years before the birth of Christ its merchants brought indigo and muslins
+from India, and porcelain from China, and the fame of its mariners was
+great.  The trade route was down the Persian Gulf, along the Tigris,
+through Palmyra—the Tadmor of old—down to the cities of the
+Mediterranean.  Arab mariners also sailed from India, keeping close to
+the coast till they reached Berenice, in the Red Sea, whence the goods
+were transported to Captos, thence down the Nile to Alexandria.  ‘Under
+such Emperors as the cruel and dissipated Commodus,’ writes Mr. R. W.
+Fraser, in his ‘British India,’ ‘the plundering barbarian, Caracalla, and
+the infamous Heliogabalus, the wealth that came from the East through
+Alexandria to the imperial city of Rome, passed away to Constantinople
+and the rising cities along the Mediterranean.’
+
+The glory of Alexandria in the olden time was the Serapeum, sacred to the
+worship of Serapis, a god originally worshipped in Sinope, and brought to
+Alexandria by the Emperor Ptolemy—worshipped eventually by the Romans as
+the Supreme Being, the beneficent Lord of Life and Death.  It is clear
+the Ptolemies—at one and the same time Egyptian Pharaohs and Greek
+princes—felt the need of a real and presiding deity for the great city,
+with its enormous population, not only from Greece and its colonies, but
+from all the nations and tribes of the Mediterranean and the East.
+
+As the seat of a god-worship became important, so did the deity its
+patron.  When Alexandria became the official and mercantile capital of
+Egypt, Serapis became the chief of all the gods of the land, and there
+his shrine was worshipped for nearly one thousand years.  The worship of
+Serapis was the last to fall before the advancing force of Christianity.
+The philosopher saw in Serapis, writes Macrobius, nothing more than the
+_anima mundi_, the spirit of whom universal nature is the body; so that
+by an easy transition Serapis came to be worshipped as the embodiment of
+the one Supreme whose representative on earth was Christ.  This is clear
+from a letter written by the Emperor Hadrian A.D. 131.  ‘I am now
+become,’ writes Hadrian, ‘fully acquainted with that Egypt which you
+extol so highly.  I have found the people vain, fickle, and shifting with
+every change of opinion.  Those who worship Serapis are, in fact,
+Christians; even those who style themselves the bishops of Christ are
+actually devoted to Serapis.  There is no chief of a Jewish synagogue, no
+Samaritan, no Christian bishop, who is not an astrologer, a
+fortune-teller, or a conjurer.  The very Patriarch of Tiberias is
+compelled, when he comes to Egypt, by one party to adore Serapis, by
+another to worship Christ.’
+
+And this seems to show that some Christians, in order to escape
+persecution, enjoyed their own faith under the cover of the national and
+local worship, which was susceptible of a spiritual interpretation quite
+cognate to their own ideas.  A similar case occurred in Spain, as the
+historical reader may remember, when so many Jews, in fear of the
+Inquisition, nominally became Roman Catholics.  Accordingly, it is clear
+that the tone of the higher, the fashionable society in Alexandria was to
+believe that on some grander or philosophic theory all these religions
+differed in form, but were essentially the same; that all adored one
+Logos or Demiurge under different names, all employed the same arts to
+impose on the vulgar, and all were equally despicable to the real
+philosopher.
+
+The worship of Serapis was abolished in the reign of Justinian, and of
+the former glory of the Serapeum nothing now remains, unless it be
+Pompey’s Pillar, which was said by some to have formed part of the
+Serapeum.  According to Tacitus, sick persons were accustomed to pass a
+night in the Serapeum in order to regain their health.  The colossal
+statue of Serapis was involved in the ruin of his temple and religion.
+It was believed that if an insult were offered to that statue, chaos
+would ensue.  When a Christian soldier aimed his first blow, even the
+Christians trembled for the event.  The victorious soldier, Gibbon tells
+us, repeated his blows; the huge idol was overthrown and broken in
+pieces, and the limbs of Serapis were ignominiously dragged through the
+streets of Alexandria.  His mangled carcase was burnt in the amphitheatre
+amidst the shouts of the people, and many persons attributed their
+conversion to this discovery of the impotence of their great deity.  A
+process something similar, attended with similar results, has more than
+once occurred in the history of missionary enterprise.
+
+Deeply interesting is Alexandria from a historical point of view.  It was
+founded by Alexander the Great more than 300 years before Christ.  King
+Ptolemy, the first of that name, made it the capital of his kingdom, laid
+the foundations of its enormous library, and held out inducements to men
+of learning to come from all parts of the world to settle there.  During
+the siege of the city by the Romans the library was burnt, but Antony
+afterwards gave the library a large collection of manuscripts, which
+formed the nucleus of a second library.  In the early centuries of our
+era the town was torn with religious dissensions about the Jews and
+religious dogma.  It was here the beautiful Hypatia, the fair heroine of
+Kingsley’s celebrated novel, was torn to pieces by an infuriated mob.
+St. Mark is said to have preached the Gospel here.  It was here that
+there arose fierce discussions between Arius and Athanasius and Cyril.
+The Christians were persecuted with great severity by Decius, by
+Valerianus, and Diocletian.  The city then declined in wealth and
+importance.  Its population dwindled away.  All fanatics, Christian or
+pagan, seem to me equally to blame.
+
+It was at one time, as I have said, the headquarters of the worship of
+Serapis.  The temple stood to the east of Alexandria, near Pompey’s
+Pillar.  It is said to have been one of the most remarkable buildings in
+the world, and was filled with excellent statues and other works of art.
+It was destroyed by the Christian fanatic, Theophilus, during the reign
+of Theodosius II.  Gibbon describes the prelate as ‘a bold, bad man, the
+perpetual enemy of peace and virtue, whose hands were alternately
+polluted with gold and blood.’  The library of the Serapeum is said to
+have contained about 400,000 manuscripts; at any rate, when it was burnt
+by the command of the Khalif Omar, the manuscripts were said to have been
+sufficiently numerous to heat the public baths for six months.  Perhaps
+it is as well they were not all preserved.  Of making many books there is
+no end, and many are the books published in this intelligent age, the
+burning of which would be no loss, but a gain, to the reading public.
+Among the famous men who studied in the original library of Alexandria
+were Strabo, Hipparchus, Archimedes, Plato, and Euclid.
+
+Then came the blighting rule of the Turk, and the wise men moved away.
+They are all vanished—gone; in their place have come the Jew banker, the
+tradesman, and the merchant prince.  The people amuse me.  They wear the
+cotton tunic longer, and have a more Arabian cast of feature than the
+Jews.  I see a funeral, with a long line of women following.  I see a
+Turk at his devotions.  He spreads a small carpet before him, then raises
+his arms above his head, muttering something all the while; then he bows
+his body so that the head touches the ground, and so he goes on.
+
+In a little while we are off for Cairo, or Caire, as they call it here.
+On my way I get my first glimpse of one of the branches of the Nile, one
+of the largest, and certainly the most renowned, rivers in the world.  In
+a few days I see more of the Nile, the overflow of which has not yet been
+dried up, and watch the people in the mud, far too soft to admit of
+ploughing, hoeing the land, rich and dark, and casting in the seed which
+is soon to bear an abundant harvest.  On our way to Cairo we pass a
+fertile country, and see crops of sugarcane and rice and maize growing,
+and the blue-clad fellaheen at work.  We pass several big towns, which
+seem thickly populated and full of life.  The houses are everywhere the
+same—white, with flat roofs.
+
+As originally founded, Alexandria was only equalled by Rome itself.  It
+comprehended a circumference of fifteen miles, and was peopled by 300,000
+free inhabitants, besides at least an equal number of slaves.  The
+lucrative trade of Arabia and India flowed through its port to Rome and
+the provinces.  No one lived an idle life.  There was plenty of work for
+all, chiefly in glass-blowing, weaving of linen, and the manufacture of
+papyrus.  The people, a mixture of all nations under the sun, were
+difficult to rule, and always ready for sedition.  A transient scarcity
+of flesh or lentils, the neglect of a public salutation, a mistake of
+precedency in the public baths, or a religious dispute, such as the
+sacrilegious murder of a divine cat, was quite sufficient to create a
+bloody tumult.
+
+Origen was a native of Alexandria.  It was there, after his time, that
+the endless controversy as to the nature of the Three Persons in the
+Trinity originated—a controversy which lasted for centuries, which led to
+wars and massacres, and which finally separated the Churches of Greece
+and Rome.  The Jews, who had settled in Alexandria by the invitation of
+the Ptolemies, carried the teaching of Plato into their religious
+speculations.  In time Arius arose to proclaim his idea of the Logos, and
+Athanasius to oppose and protest, and ultimately triumph.  The
+Homoousians prevailed, and the Homoiousians were branded and persecuted
+as heretics—enemies alike to God and man; yet Athanasius was driven from
+his diocese, and the famous St. George of Cappadocia reigned in his
+stead.  The pagans of Alexandria, who still formed a numerous and
+discontented party, were easily persuaded to desert a Bishop whom they
+feared and esteemed.  At a later time Cyril became the Archbishop, and
+distinguished his orthodox career by the animosity with which he expelled
+the Jews, and opposed the doctrine of Nestorius, who taught that there
+was a Divine and human Christ, and refused to worship the Virgin Mary as
+the mother of God.
+
+‘He was a most expert logician,’ writes Zosimus, ‘but perverted his
+talents to evil powers, and had the audacity to preach what no one before
+him had ever suggested, namely, that the Son of God was made out of that
+which had no prior existence; that there was a period of time in which He
+existed not; that as possessing free will, He was capable of vice; and
+that He was created, not made.’  At the Council of Nicæa, held in the
+reign of Constantine, it was decided that Christ and the Father were of
+one and the same nature, and the doctrine of Arius, that Christ and God
+were only similar in nature, was declared heretical.  Nevertheless, the
+Arians became more numerous than ever under the reign of Valens.  As soon
+as the Christians of the West, writes Gibbon, had extricated themselves
+from the snares of the creed of Rimini, they happily relapsed into the
+slumber of orthodoxy, and the small remains of the Arian party that still
+subsisted in Sirmium or Milan might be considered as objects of contempt
+rather than resentment.  But in the provinces of the East, from the
+Euxine to the extremity of Thebais, the strength and number of the
+hostile factions were equally balanced, and this equality, instead of
+recommending the counsels of peace, served only to perpetuate the horrors
+of religious war.  The monks and bishops supported their arguments by
+invectives, and their invectives were sometimes followed by blows.
+Athanasius still reigned at Alexandria, but the thrones of Constantinople
+and Antioch were occupied by Arian prelates, and every episcopal vacancy
+was the occasion of a popular tumult.  The Homoousians were fortified by
+the reconciliation of fifty-nine Macedonian or semi-Arian bishops, but
+their secret reluctance to embrace the Divinity of the Holy Ghost clouded
+the splendour of their triumph, and the declaration of Valens, who in the
+first years of his reign had imitated the impartial conduct of his
+brother, was an important victory on the side of Arianism.  Well might
+Dr. Arnold write that it was an evil hour for the Church when Constantine
+connected Christianity with the State.  It is really wonderful that real
+Christianity survived that fatal step when the sword of the civil
+magistrate was drawn in its support.  It is hardly yet recognised that
+the religion of Jesus of Nazareth flourishes best when free from State
+patronage and control.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+IN CAIRO.
+
+Covered with dust, parched with thirst, exhausted with hunger, burnt up
+with heat, I am landed at the charming Hôtel du Nil, in the gardens of
+which, filled up with American rocking-chairs, and trees bearing gorgeous
+red flowers and bananas and palms, and eucalyptus and banyan-trees all
+around, I realize as I have never done before something of the splendour
+and the wondrous beauty of the East.  It must have been a fairy palace at
+one time or other, this Hôtel du Nil, with an enchanted garden.  In the
+day it is intolerably hot, but the mornings and evenings are simply
+perfection.  If there be an Elysium on earth, it is this.  I feel
+inclined to pitch my tent here, and for ever bid adieu to my native land.
+The dinners are all that can be desired, the bedrooms large and lofty,
+and the servants, who, with the exception of the German waiters, are
+Soudanese—tall, white-robed, with a girdle round the middle—seem to me to
+be the best and most attentive in the world.  There is nothing they will
+not do for me, and they are honest as the day.  Apparently the dark boys
+have a good deal of the negro in their blood.  I walk out to see the fine
+buildings and palaces which lie between me and the railway-station, but I
+cannot stand the bustle and confusion of the street, and soon beat a
+hasty retreat.  The infirmities of old age follow me into this land of
+perpetual youth.
+
+                     [Picture: General view of Cairo]
+
+I walk outside the narrow and sombre lane which leads to the hotel in the
+quaint and ancient street Mousky.  Let me attempt to describe it, and it
+will give the reader an accurate idea of Oriental life.  The Mousky is
+the busiest street in all Cairo.  Here meet Greek and Syrian,
+Anglo-Saxons, American or English, Armenian and Turk, Maronite and Druse,
+Italians, French, Russians, German, Dutch, and Belgian, and the vast army
+of residents, men, women, and children, of all shades and complexions,
+from the ebony-black Soudanese to the olive-tinted Arab, walk its length,
+penetrate its dark and confusing bazaars, and there [Picture: A street in
+Cairo] is nothing more for you to see.  Donkey drivers, who beset me at
+every step, and the guides on the look-out for their prey, are a
+perpetual nuisance, even though they assure me they like the English and
+are glad to see them here.
+
+Crowded together are nooks and corners where native merchants ply their
+trades, and the gloom of some dark recess is lit by the glowing blue and
+scarlet and purple of Persian rugs, and the glare of polished and
+embossed brass.  In the street the modern descendant of Tubal Cain is
+hard at work, and the tailor plies his needle, and the cigarette-maker
+rolls up his tobacco in its thin wrapper of paper, and the weaver bends
+over his loom, differing in nothing from that used by his forefathers a
+thousand years ago.  Eatables and drinkables of strange flavour and
+colour are exposed for sale, and pedlars meet you at every turn uttering
+hoarse and discordant cries.  There is quite a buzz of conversation, but
+I cannot understand a word.  Why, I ask, did not Leibnitz carry out his
+grand idea and give us a universal language?  It would have saved some of
+us a good deal of trouble.  The pavement is too narrow for anyone to walk
+on, as the shopkeeper sits outside smoking his cigarette, while the
+customers also do the same, and the street is completely blocked.  You
+are obliged to get into the narrow way where carriages and donkey and
+luggage waggons meet you at every step.
+
+Women abound, all clad in black, with a black cloth over their faces,
+leaving only the eyes and nose visible, and a cheek of pallid skin.  The
+nose is covered with a little gilt ornament, I suppose they call it,
+coming from the forehead, so that you really see nothing of it.  Now and
+then you pass a coffee-house where smoking and gambling seem to be going
+on all day.  In the course of my ramblings I came to a street lined with
+scribes on stones writing letters for their clients, and was struck with
+the firm, clear hand in which their letters are written—all in Arabic, of
+course.  Every now and then a swell passes me in his carriage, with a
+running footman to clear the way with a white or black staff.  I expect
+to be knocked down every minute.  To walk the Mousky in peace and safety,
+you require to be as deaf as a post and to have a pair at least of good
+eyes at the back of your head.
+
+                 [Picture: Tomb of the Caliphs of Cairo]
+
+Wearied, I return to the quiet and shady groves of the hotel, a large
+pile of buildings streaked red and yellow, with a grand bit of garden
+ground at the back, and a wooden tower, from which you may see all Cairo
+at a glance.  All the houses are flat-roofed, and many of them look
+unfinished, though not in reality so.  I sink into a rocking-chair, light
+my pipe, and talk of the future of Cairo.  I say I want to visit a Coptic
+Church, the church which was held heretical by the Orthodox Church, as
+they were said to have held imperfect ideas of the dual nature of Christ.
+One gentleman tells me I had better keep away, as the priests will pick
+your pockets in the very church.  He has 300 Copts in his employ, and
+gives them all a very bad character.  I ask as to the Khedive; everyone
+gives him a bad character, though he has discovered one wife is enough
+for any man.  ‘He has the bad blood of his father and grandfather,’ says
+an Englishman to me.  He has a thin veneer of civilization, but he is
+weak and ignorant, eaten up with ambition, and over head and ears in
+debt, though his allowance is £100,000 a year, a sum which should go far
+in a city where the price of labour is from two piastres to five, the
+piastre being valued at twopence halfpenny.
+
+The people live exclusively on maize-corn, certainly not an expensive
+article of diet.  The intelligent people are all in favour of the English
+Government, but, alas! the majority does not in Cairo, as I am told it
+does at home, represent the enlightened opinions of an intelligent
+people.  I hear the shilly-shally policy of the English Government
+bitterly condemned.  We are here, and must remain here.  As it is, the
+people know not what to expect.  There is no progress, but a terrible
+paralysis all over the city.  ‘I like you English,’ said an intelligent
+native; ‘but you are here to-day and may be gone to-morrow, and then we
+who have adhered to England will all have our throats cut.  We are like a
+boat between two shores, and know not whither we are going.  The English
+must either stop or go.’  Our stay is to the lasting advantage of all the
+European nations.
+
+We have wonderfully improved the condition of the fellaheen, who,
+according to all I hear, are not too thankful for the liberty we have
+gained for them.  I met an intelligent old Greek, who deeply resented
+that we had abolished flogging—a little of it now and then, according to
+him, did the natives good.  Manual labour is so cheap that it is used in
+every department.  At the hotel I note that they bring the coals in in
+baskets, and in the railway-station I see a native employed in laying the
+dust, with a skin of water, which he carries on his back, using the neck
+as a water-spout.
+
+Of all the cities I have known—and, like Ulysses, I am ever wandering
+with a hungry heart—I infinitely prefer Cairo, and am not surprised that
+it is becoming more and more the winter residence of the English
+aristocracy.  It was a delight to live when I was there, and as I took my
+breakfast _al fresco_ in the beautiful grounds of the Hôtel du Nil, with
+tropical plants in full flower all round me, a bright sun and unclouded
+blue sky above, the question whether life was worth living seemed to me
+an absurdity.  But, alas! no one can look for perfect happiness—at any
+rate, on earth.  In Cairo there are the flies, not so bad as I have seen
+them in Australia or America, but a terrible infliction nevertheless.
+One of my companions, Mr. Willans, the popular proprietor of the _Leeds
+Daily Mercury_, suffered much from them, and had for a time to give up
+reading and writing, and to wear coloured glasses, but I was let off more
+easily.  In Cairo, for the first time, I realized what a luxury it was to
+have dates to eat.  We at home, who buy dates at the grocer’s, have no
+idea how juicy the date of Cairo is.  [Picture: Donkey Boy, Cairo] Then
+the heat is great, and walking far is out of the question.  But what of
+that?  Directly you turn into the street the donkey-boy comes up to offer
+you a ride; and the Cairo donkey is lively, large, and white, and well
+groomed, sure of foot, swift in speed, and beautiful to look at.  An
+English coster’s moke is not to be named on the same day with the Cairo
+donkey, on which you can have a ride for a trifling sum.
+
+Life and prosperity seem everywhere to prevail, and the station at Cairo
+conducts you at once into a fine city, with broad streets, well watered,
+and shaded by trees, handsome shops, fine hotels, beautiful gardens, and
+the inevitable statue of Mohammed Ali, who did so much to develop modern
+Egypt.  Palaces of all kinds attract the eye, one of the finest of these
+being the residence of Lord Cromer.  Cairo is distinctly a society place,
+though, perhaps, not so much so as Cannes or Nice, and living is dear,
+though cheaper than it used to be.  French seems the language principally
+used, though the guides, who pester you at every corner, and the
+donkey-boys, who are equally persistent, have a confusing smattering of
+English.  The resident English colony is chiefly composed of the
+diplomatic and Consular bodies, or of those connected with the different
+Consular departments, and of officers of the garrison.  You meet many
+English soldiers whose appearance is creditable to the country, and
+amongst the birds of passage are many Americans.  There are two good
+clubs for visitors—the Khediveal and the Turf, the latter chiefly
+supported by army officers.  The theatre, where French plays and Italian
+operas are performed, is a very fine building.  In the same neighbourhood
+is also a _café chantant_ in the gardens.  All day long, under the bright
+blue sky, the scene is very animated.
+
+But the visitors, although a welcome addition, do not entirely make up
+Cairene society.  The gaiety begins and is mainly kept up by the
+residents, especially the British civil and military, who are always most
+hospitable at the winter time of year.  Cairo is no doubt a court and
+capital, the residence of the sovereign to whom diplomatists are
+accredited from all the civilized Powers.  But it is also a British
+military station, and it owes much of its present liveliness to the
+British officers and civil servants.
+
+It was the British garrison that established the Cairo Sporting Club,
+where good polo is played, and very fair cricket, ‘squash’ rackets, and
+lawn-tennis; where there are monthly race-meetings, and officers ride
+steeplechases on their own horses.  The big lunches, the pleasant
+afternoon teas, the dances and flirtations so constantly in progress, are
+essentially British.
+
+Out at Mena, under the shadow of the Sphinx, there is a golf-course, and
+the caddie is an Arab boy in a long blue bed-gown, and you can aim your
+ball from the putting-green straight at the Pyramid of Cheops.  Out at
+Matarieh, just where Mr. Wilfrid Blunt lives the life of an Arab
+patriarch, under tents, surrounded by his flocks and herds, there is a
+training stable, and the British sporting subaltern keeps his ‘tit’
+there, and comes out to give him his gallops at early dawn.
+
+But it is as you get away from the broad streets of new Cairo, and plunge
+into the bazaars and the narrow streets, that you realize what a
+bewildering place old Cairo is.  The city of Cairo covers an area of
+three square miles, and greatly exceeds the limit of the old walls.  On
+the south stands the ancient citadel, on a rock, memorable for the
+massacre of the Mamelukes.  Of the most perfect of the old gateways still
+remaining is the Gate of Victory.  Above the archway is an Arabic
+inscription: ‘There is no god but God, and Mohammed is His Prophet.’  The
+streets are narrow and irregular, and badly paved, while the white
+houses, with their overhanging windows, are, at any rate, picturesque.
+
+The bazaars are of all sorts: the leather-sellers have one, the
+carpet-dealers another, silk-merchants another, and everywhere purchaser
+and buyer seem to spend a great deal of time in smoking cigarettes.  The
+gold bazaar is so narrow that three persons can scarcely pass; there, and
+at the silver bazaar, you see the artificers constantly at work.  Coptic
+churches and mosques you meet everywhere.  There is a good attendance at
+the English Church; there are also a Presbyterian Church, and two Roman
+Catholic churches.  I saw the bishop of one of them, who was to preach,
+driving along in very grand style.  The Wesleyans have also a chapel.
+The howling dervishes have also their sanctum, where they exhibit their
+peculiarly unpleasant powers.  I decline to go and see them, as everyone
+tells me they are a fraud; and if I want to be deceived, there is the
+Egyptian conjuror always ready with his little tricks.  He comes daily to
+the hotel to give a performance; also daily resort there the Egyptian
+minstrels, whose performances we all greatly applaud.
+
+The English have a party paper called the _Sphinx_, which, however, I
+fancy has little influence in the formation of public opinion.  In
+Alexandria a daily English paper is published, which reaches Cairo about
+eight in the evening, but which gives little general news, and is chiefly
+devoted to trade and commerce.  It was with a heavy heart I left Cairo
+and its bright and busy life for the gray skies and bleak winds of my
+native land.  My consolation is that we breed better men than they do in
+southern climes—a fact of which the Roman Cæsars were aware when they
+drew their best troops from Britain or Northern Gaul.
+
+The French complain bitterly of English influence in Egypt—a country for
+which we have done much, and which, if it ever becomes prosperous, will
+owe its prosperity to England alone; and yet it is the fact that the
+Englishman in Egypt lies under peculiar disadvantages, and that as much
+as possible English enterprise is discouraged and destroyed.  It ought
+not to be so.  We who have made Egypt what it is, who have fought its
+battles, developed its resources, improved the condition of its people,
+destroyed its corrupting and enervating influences, put its finances in a
+healthy condition, may be expected to have, at any rate, fair play there.
+
+That this is not so, the case of Mr. Fell, of Leamington, one of the few
+men who have raised themselves from the ranks and become honoured far and
+near, is a notorious illustration.  In 1890 he obtained a concession from
+the Egyptian Government giving him the right to make tramways in the city
+of Cairo.  The particular department of the Egyptian Government which has
+to do with such affairs has at its head a Secretary of State—at that time
+the office was held by Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff—and a financial adviser
+appointed by the Egyptian Government on the recommendation of the English
+Government.  Mr. Fell went to Egypt, had the whole city surveyed, and the
+plans drawn, a difficult task which occupied a considerable amount of
+time.  In August of the same year he bought the steel rails, ordered the
+cars to be built, and did all he could to hasten the fulfilment of his
+contract, and, as a security, deposited with the Egyptian Government
+twenty-two Egyptian bonds of the value of £100 each.  To still further
+strengthen his position, he had a letter from Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff
+to the effect that he was quite satisfied that Mr. Fell had complied with
+legal requirements.
+
+So far all was straight sailing, but in April the Egyptian Government
+confiscated the bonds Mr. Fell had deposited with them, and also declared
+the contract null and void, on the ground that he had failed to comply
+with the conditions under which the contract was made.  Mr. Fell had a
+long correspondence with the Egyptian Government of a very unsatisfactory
+character.  In 1893 he returned to Egypt, and interviewed the
+authorities.  Lord Cromer advised him to go to law.  In his action
+against the Government, he was defeated on the plea that the letters
+written by Sir Scott Moncrieff, as Secretary of State, were not valid.
+In the meanwhile, the Egyptian Government advertised for a new concession
+in July, 1894, for which Mr. Fell again tendered, depositing a thousand
+guineas.  In compliance with a request from the Egyptian Government, Mr.
+Fell again returned to Egypt, but found, on his arrival, that the
+contract had been given to a Belgian firm, who frankly admitted that they
+had paid so much for the concession that it was scarcely worth having.
+‘My loss in consequence,’ said Mr. Fell to me, ‘is at least from £17,000
+to £20,000, and this all through French intriguing.’
+
+Such is a brief outline of a case of hardship, not to an individual, but
+the whole nation.  Practically speaking, there is no British capital
+invested in Egypt except what was there previous to 1882.  In the railway
+department, for instance, of late years all the works have been carried
+on by French and Belgian—to the exclusion of British—contractors.  All
+the contracts for bridges which have recently been let have been let to
+Belgian contractors.  The only companies that thrive in Egypt are French
+companies.  Everything is in their favour.  The law officers of the Crown
+are exclusively foreign, principally Corsicans, and they are able to
+control the native tribunal, notwithstanding the fact that there are
+English judges upon it; and to these Corsican law officers it is due that
+so much anti-English feeling exists in Egypt at this present time.
+Assuredly, Egypt makes us but a poor return for the money and blood we
+have spent in its behalf.  We have a right to expect better treatment.
+If John Bull stands this sort of thing, he must be a poor creature
+indeed.
+
+Anthony Trollope gives us an amusing illustration of the official life of
+Cairo in his time.  He was sent there by the English Post-Office to
+accelerate the mail-service to Suez, and it took him two months to do his
+business.  ‘I found, on my arrival,’ he writes, ‘that I was to
+communicate with an officer of the Pasha, who was then called Nubar Bey.
+I presume him to have been the gentleman who lately dealt with our
+Government as to the Suez Canal shares, and who is now well known as
+Nubar Pasha.  I found him a most courteous gentleman, an Armenian.  I
+never went to his office, nor do I know that he had an office.  Every
+other day he would come to me at my hotel, and bring with him servants
+and pipes and coffee.  I enjoyed his coming greatly, but there was one
+point on which we could not agree,’ and that was as to the rate of speed
+with which the mails should be carried through Egypt.  The Post-Office
+said it must be done in twenty-four hours.  The agent of the Egyptian
+Government contended that it would take forty-eight hours at the least.
+For a long time they could come to no agreement.  Both were equally
+obstinate.  It was impossible, said Nubar, that the mail could be carried
+at such a rate.  It might do for England, but would not do for Egypt.
+The Pasha, his master, he said, would, no doubt, accede to any terms
+demanded by the British Post-Office, so great was his reverence for
+anything British.  In that case, he, Nubar, would at once resign his
+position and retire into private life.  He would be ruined, but the loss
+of life and bloodshed which would follow would not rest on his head.
+Nevertheless, he gave way after many days’ delay and a good deal of
+smoking and coffee-drinking.  The twenty-four hours gained the day.  It
+is to be hoped that official business is done more quickly now.  A two
+months’ stay in Cairo over such an affair may have been pleasant.  It
+certainly was expensive, and someone other than Mr. Trollope had to pay
+the bill.
+
+Lord Cromer’s latest report of the state of matters in Egypt is cheering.
+The finances are better.  The income from railways, customs, and tobacco
+has improved.  A great boon has been conferred on the fellaheen by the
+experimental money advances made by Government to tide them over till
+their cotton-crop is ripe.  Hitherto they have had to borrow from Greeks,
+who, however admirable in the character of liberators, are not so lovely
+as money-lenders.  They charge from 20 to 30 per cent. for their loans,
+and, in addition, always take back an Egyptian pound, equal to £1 0s.
+6d., for the pound sterling.  This is really more than an extra 2½ per
+cent., for the loans are not for a whole year.  There are Mohammedan
+lenders, too.  Their religion forbidding usury, they take it out of the
+fellaheen in cotton.  The Government in their experimental loans have
+charged a half per cent. per month, or 6 per cent. per annum.  The
+experiment was successful.  Of nearly £8,000 lent between February and
+July, all but £20 had been repaid with interest by the end of November.
+The benefit that an agricultural bank would be to the smaller cultivators
+has been in this way realized by Lord Cromer, who suggests that private
+bankers should take the experiment in hand.
+
+The Government has also been checkmating the money-lenders by sending
+them good seed at 58 pounds Turkish an ardeb, payable in three
+instalments, upon finding out that the usurers were advancing inferior
+seed at 70 to 100 pounds Turkish, payable at cropping-time.
+
+The land-tax is now got in with certainty, whereas formerly the
+Government never knew what to estimate for arrears; the post-office
+revenue is improving; exports and imports have gone up by about two
+millions; the cotton-crops are better; the sugar industry is rapidly
+increasing in Upper Egypt; the railway receipts are the highest on
+record; railway extension is going on, and plans and surveys for light
+railways are well advanced; agricultural roads are constructed; there are
+electric tramways and lighting in Cairo.  The light dues will be
+decreased this year.  The only relic of forced labour is a yearly
+diminishing amount for the protection of the Nile banks during the period
+of flood.  Crime is diminishing, and sanitary reform is progressing.
+Education is advancing as far as possible, considering the deficiency of
+funds, and slavery is kept under.
+
+As to the question when our work shall be done, and we English shall
+retire from Cairo, it is impossible, says Sir A. Milner, to give a
+definite answer.  It would be difficult to over-estimate what that work
+owes to the sagacity, patience, and fortitude of the British Ambassador.
+The contrast between the Egypt of to-day and the Egypt as it was when he
+first took it in hand is the best testimony to his efficiency and wisdom.
+All writers on Egypt agree in this.  ‘There is not a native,’ writes Mr.
+Wood, ‘that does not recognise at heart the benefits of the British
+occupation’—a remark which seemed to be to a certain extent true; but not
+quite to the extent Mr. Wood suggests.  ‘It is quite an anachronism,’ Sir
+A. Milner remarks, ‘to suppose that the interest of Egyptian finance
+centres in the debt, and that the financial authorities of the country
+are the mere bailiffs of the bondholders.’  As a matter of fact, now that
+it has been established that the resources of Egypt can bear the interest
+of the debt at its present rate, the last people whom an Egyptian Finance
+Minister need trouble himself about are the bondholders.  Except when an
+occasion presents itself to reduce the interest by the legitimate method
+of conversion, the debt need no longer have a foremost place in his mind.
+‘Even the Commissioners of the Caisse,’ writes Sir A. Milner, ‘who only
+meet to protect the creditors, and who from time to time, to justify
+their existence, get up a little fuss about some supposed danger to
+interests which in their hearts they know to be perfectly secure—even the
+Commissioners of the Caisse, I say, are more occupied now-a-days with
+employing their reserve fund in developing the wealth of the country than
+with needless anxieties about the coupon.’  Sir A. Milner has no doubt
+well weighed his words.  Of all the romances of finance there are few to
+be compared with the borrowings of Ismail, to whom is due the honour of
+having originated the Egyptian National Debt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX.
+
+There are two things in Egypt which amply repay the traveller for his
+trouble.  One is the museum at Gizeh, and the other the pyramids,
+especially the Great Pyramid of Cheops.  I did them both in one day.  It
+is a pleasant ride from Cairo, on a road broad, well watered, and shaded
+all the way by large acacia-trees.  I did the museum first, though it
+will be a matter of regret to me that I had only an hour to visit a
+collection where one might usefully spend weeks, and that our guide
+indulged in an English almost as unintelligible to us as
+
+          ‘The heathen Greek
+    That Helen spoke when Paris wooed.’
+
+The palace which shelters the museum is said to have been built at a cost
+of nearly 5,000,000 sterling.  The edifice is placed in spacious grounds
+close to the river, just opposite the spot on the other side where
+Pharaoh’s daughter is said to have come to bathe when she discovered
+Moses.  It was opened by the Khedive in 1890.  The section devoted to the
+exhibition of papyri is remarkably interesting, but to most of us the gem
+of the collection is the splendid sarcophagus which contains the body of
+Rameses II., the persecutor of the Israelites.  The features of his face
+are well preserved, but his head does not give you any idea of any
+special intellectual capacity; and the face of his father, who lies close
+by, is almost that of a pure negro—that is, as far as I could make it
+out.  On one of the papyri is an inscription, of which I copy a portion,
+in order to [Picture: Colossal Statue of Rameses II] give the reader an
+idea of the piety of the ancient Egyptians:
+
+    ‘When thou makest an offering to God, offer not that which He
+    abominateth.  Dispute not concerning His mysteries.  The God of the
+    world is in the light above the heavens, and His emblems are upon
+    earth.  It is unto these that worship is paid daily.  When thou hast
+    arrived at years of maturity, and art married and hast a house,
+    forget never the pains which thou hast cost thy mother, nor the care
+    which she has bestowed upon thee.  Never give her cause to complain
+    of thee, lest she lift up her hand to God in heaven to complain of
+    thee, and He listen to her complaint.’
+
+It seems to me that we have a good deal to learn of the ancient Egyptians
+yet.
+
+To the Pyramids it is a drive of about five miles.  When we reached them
+it was too hot for most of us to attempt climbing; yet several of our
+party did so, and came back delighted with the view they had thus gained
+over all the country round.  I need not describe the appearance of the
+Great Pyramid, standing as it does on the edge of the Libyan desert—an
+enormous pile of stones, up which it would be impossible to climb were it
+not for the help of the guides, who are remarkably skilful in aiding the
+traveller in the perilous ascent and the far more perilous descent, and
+at the same time remarkably pressing for backsheesh.  There is no
+evidence to show that the Pyramids were built for astronomical purposes,
+and the theory that the Great Pyramid was built as a standard of
+measurement is equally worthless.  Outwardly, they seem nothing but a
+pile of big stones, broad at the base, tapering at the top.  A French
+savant has asserted that the stones of the three Pyramids would make a
+wall round the frontier of France.  The Pyramid of Cheops was built B.C.
+3733.  Its four sides measure in length about 755 feet at the base; its
+height is now 451 feet, but it is said to have been originally about 481
+feet.
+
+Of late, as I have shown, the trip to the Pyramids cannot well be easier
+or more agreeable.  In 1868 Sir Stafford Northcote thus describes his
+experiences: ‘We observed nothing particular till we reached the Nile,
+when the scene of crossing in the ferry-boats afforded us unmixed
+satisfaction.  The usual amount of noise in the streets at Cairo was as
+silence to the noise at the waterside.  Hosts of donkeys were being
+pushed, pulled, beaten, or shouted at, and eventually lifted into the
+boats, and then shoved off with loads [Picture: Pyramid and Sphinx] that
+looked very unmanageable.  We had a boat to ourselves, and our donkeys
+took their places in it like old stagers.  We had a pretty strong breeze
+in our favour, and sailed across easily enough, wondering how we were to
+get back again.  Soon after crossing, we came into the fine new road
+which the Viceroy has made to the Pyramids, and which is perfectly
+luxurious.  It is as wide as the Edgware Road, but not so hard, [Picture:
+The Great Sphinx. (From a photograph taken by Dr. W. Ogle, February,
+1888)] and must be charming for a horse’s foot.  Avenues of acacias are
+planted all along it, and when these have grown to the size of those
+which line the earlier part of the road, the approach will be in
+delicious shade all the way.  Avenues of trees are inferior in dignity to
+avenues of sphinxes, but make pleasanter travelling.  We were seized on
+in the usual way and dragged up the Great Pyramid by the Arabs.  I could
+have got up a great deal better by myself, but it would have been
+contrary to all precedent, and might have led to an _émeute_.  It took me
+twenty minutes to go up, including a good stoppage for breath and another
+for a wrangle between two Arabs.  The view from the top was good, but one
+could not enjoy it much in the presence of such a crowd.  The first thing
+my Bedouin did was to go down on his knees and offer to cut my name,
+which I indignantly forbade.  He then proceeded to tender some coins
+(genuine antique, of course) at a suspiciously low price, and finally he
+urged me to come down quickly, in the hopes, no doubt, of getting hold of
+another victim.’
+
+Sir Stafford adds that he admired the Sphinx, which is, in some respects,
+more interesting than the Pyramids themselves.  Now there is to be a
+tramway to the Pyramids.  But I fear the nuisance of the Arab guides
+shouting and pushing will remain a nuisance still.
+
+As I sit under what little shade I can find on the burning sand, I am
+badgered to death by the dealers in imitation antiques and the donkey
+boys.  The white donkeys of Egypt are beautiful animals, and sometimes
+fetch a hundred pounds.  I have seen a gentleman whose donkey cost him
+that sum.  The value of the common donkey to be met with in the streets
+of Cairo is about seven pounds.  The finest donkeys in the world come
+from Cyprus.  The next best are those to be had at Syene, in Egypt.  I
+could tell much of the artfulness of the donkey-boys.  One of my
+companions was very stout, and did not think it right to gallop, on
+account of his weight.  ‘Me too fat,’ said he to the donkey-boy.  ‘No,’
+replied the latter—‘not too fat; you fine man.’  Again, one of the ladies
+of our party was enjoying a ride, when the boy plaintively remarked:
+‘Fine lady—fine donkey—poor donkey-boy!’  And the boy secured a little
+extra backsheesh.  I could fill a chapter with the smart sayings of the
+donkey-boys.  So far as I can make out, there is no need for the
+donkey-boy to travel to Ireland to kiss the Blarney-Stone.  Alas for him,
+I was deaf to all his flattery, and plunged on in the burning sand till I
+stood in the presence of the world-renowned Sphinx.
+
+At first I was disappointed in the Sphinx, but, like Niagara, the more
+you look, the more you admire.  Poets and literary men have told us how
+it stands in the desert, and has stood for centuries, overlooking the
+eternal sands as nations and dynasties come and go.  In reality its
+position is by no means elevated, and you don’t see it till you are
+actually before it.  And yet one can in time realize something of that
+fine passage in ‘Eothen,’ written half a century ago, which tells how
+this unworldly Sphinx has looked down on ancient kings of Ethiopian and
+Egyptian origin, upon Greek and Roman, upon Arab and Ottoman conquerors,
+upon Napoleon, dreaming of an Eastern empire, upon battle and pestilence,
+and how it will remain watching when Islam will wither away, and the
+Englishman will plant a firm foot on the banks of the Nile.  Originally
+it was crowned with a helmet; the stone cap was only discovered as lately
+as 1896.  Mr. John Cook runs a four-horse coach to the Pyramids and back
+during the season, and thus, at the foot of the Sphinx, the present and
+the past meet and mingle.  The age of the Sphinx is unknown.  All that is
+certain is that it was the work of one of the kings of the ancient
+empire.  A stele discovered of the time of Thothmes, B.C. 1533, records
+that one day, during an after-dinner sleep, Hermachis appeared to
+Thothmes IV., and promised to bestow upon him the crown of Egypt if he
+would dig his image the Sphinx out of the sand.  Another inscription
+recently discovered shows that the Sphinx existed in the time of Cheops.
+The Sphinx is here hewn out of the solid rock, but pieces of stone have
+been added when necessary.  The body is about 150 feet long, the paws are
+50 feet long, the head is 30 feet long, the face is 14 feet wide, and
+from the top of the head to the base of the monument the distance is
+about 70 feet.  Originally there were probably ornaments on the head, the
+whole of which was covered with a limestone covering, and the face was
+coloured red.  Of these decorations scarcely any traces now remain,
+though they were visible towards the end of the last century.  The
+condition in which the monument now appears is due to the savage
+destruction of its features by the Mohammedan rulers of Egypt, some of
+whom caused it to be used for a target.  Around this imposing relic of
+antiquity a number of legends and superstitions have clustered in all
+ages.  A little to the south-east of the Sphinx stands the large granite
+and limestone temple excavated by M. Marriette in 1853.
+
+And now I have done with the East, and my face is turned towards
+Marseilles.  I am once more on board the _Midnight Sun_, the quiet and
+repose of which are infinitely refreshing after the tumult and bustle of
+Egypt.  Long, long will I remember the gorgeous East—its heat, its
+confusion, its noise, its undying charm.  To enjoy Cairo, you must go and
+stop there a winter.  My fellow-passengers seem to have been lavish in
+their expenditure.  One gentleman alone of our party expended as much as
+£60 in the purchase of carpets and gold-embroidered cloths, and for the
+ladies the bazaars seem to have had peculiar charms.  I am sure Dr. Lunn
+deserves the hearty thanks of all our party for organizing what has
+proved to be such a gratifying time.  His brother and his secretary, Mr.
+Wight, have done all in their power to make us comfortable.  There was no
+hitch in any of the arrangements.  Carriages and hotels were all of the
+very best, and the cost of the whole trip was really remarkably small.
+The ordinary traveller, making the trip on his own account, must have had
+to pay a great deal more, and experienced an amount of trouble and
+fatigue, and consequent loss of temper, of which we passengers by the
+_Midnight Sun_ have had no conception.
+
+The Doctor calls his tours educational ones, and provides us with
+lectures.  I did not much profit by the lectures, my hearing being, alas!
+rather defective; yet we all of us got a good deal of education during
+the course of our visit—the education which comes to all of us from the
+use of our eyes and ears, and the gift, or, rather, exercise, of
+common-sense.
+
+I ought to mention that there is a very good hotel on your right just as
+you get to the Pyramids; many gentlemen I met were staying there, and
+spoke well of it.  Some years since a gentleman suffering from
+consumption built a house, and went to live there in the hope that the
+pure air of the desert would restore him to health.  It did not.  As is
+the case with so many consumptive people, the remedy was deferred too
+long.  Many are those who have gone to the desert to recover, but fade
+away and die, to the sorrow of those who loved them, simply because they
+have deferred the remedy too long.  On the decease of the builder of the
+house, it was greatly enlarged, and is now known as the Mena House Hotel.
+Mena is the name of one of the most ancient Egyptian kings.  All round it
+stretches the desert right away to the great Sahara, and there Byron
+might have realized his dream—which, happily, he never realized, nor
+ever, perhaps, wished to—of the desert being his dwelling-place, with
+some fair spirit for his minister,
+
+    ‘Where he might soon forget the human race,
+    And, hating no one, love but only her.’
+
+It was well for the noble poet, whose fame will grow when that of our
+Poet Laureate and his brother rhymesters will have collapsed, that the
+elements did not hear his prayer and accord him his heart’s desire.  But
+a fellow might do worse than put up at the Mena Hotel, of which I, alas!
+only saw the outside.  One ought to stop some time at the Pyramids.  Mr.
+Pollard, who devotes considerable space to them—the last authority on the
+subject—says the rocks upon which they are built, ‘and the stones with
+which they are constructed, abound with small fossil shells, which, from
+their resemblance to money or coins, have caused this limestone to be
+called nummulite.  Other round, small shells, closely resembling lentils,
+are also found; the Arabs say that they were the food of the masons
+turned into stone.  The flora is interesting, though limited: an
+anthromis bearing its strong characteristic scent, but without petals; a
+very pretty small plant of the herbage family; and an umbelliferous plant
+smelling strongly of aniseed, were all much appreciated by the camels and
+snails.’
+
+While I was there I saw no flowers, nor heard of any.  They had all
+withered under the scorching sun.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+THE RIVER NILE.
+
+At length I gaze on the Nile—that marvellous river, the sources of which,
+though many have tried to find them, have only been discovered in our
+day.  The history of Egypt is the oldest known to us.  A large portion of
+its history can be constructed from the native records of the Egyptians,
+and those records are all to be found on the banks of the Nile.  Four
+thousand four hundred years before Christ, Mena, the first King of Egypt
+of whom we have a record, founded Memphis, having turned aside the course
+of the Nile and established a temple service there.  In the reign of
+Ammenehat, 2,300 years before Christ, special attention was paid to the
+rise of the Nile, and canals were made and sluices dug for irrigating the
+country; the rise of the Nile was marked on wells at Semnah, about
+thirty-five miles above the second cataract, and the inscriptions are
+visible to this day.  A thousand years later Seti I. is said to have
+built a canal from the Nile to the Red Sea.  Under the Roman Emperor
+Trajan the Nile and Red Sea Canal was reopened.  Egypt proper terminates
+at Syene: the territory south of that town and each side of the new Nile
+is called Nubia.  All Egypt depends upon the Nile; where the Nile does
+not flow all is barrenness—nothing but sand and rock.
+
+The area of the land in Egypt available for cultivation is about 11,500
+square miles; the Delta contains about 6,500 square miles, and the Nile
+Valley about 5,000.  The country seems to have been taken possession of
+by a people from the East about 5,000 years before Christ.  They found
+there an aboriginal people, with a dark skin and complexion.  The
+Egyptians generally called their land black (Kanit), and the term is
+appropriate, if we consider the dark rich colour of the cultivated land.
+In the Bible Egypt is known as Ham.  All nations have held the land, and
+have sent their people thither.  But it is a curious fact that the
+physical type of the Egyptian fellah is exactly what it was in the
+earliest dynasties.
+
+The river Nile is one of the largest rivers in the world.  It is formed
+by the junction of two great arms, the Blue Nile and the White; one rises
+in Abyssinia, at an elevation of about 10,000 feet above the level of the
+sea; the other, the true Nile, has its fountain-head in the Victoria
+Nyanza, a huge basin far below the level of the country.  The course of
+the Nile has been explored about 3,500 miles.  From Khartoum to Cairo the
+Nile falls about 400 yards; its width in its widest part is about 1,100
+yards.  After entering Egypt, the Nile flows in a steady stream always to
+the north, and deposits the mud which is the life of Egypt.  The breadth
+of the Nile Valley varies from four to ten miles in Nubia, and from
+fifteen to thirty in Egypt.  The width of the area of cultivated land on
+each bank of the river in Egypt is never more than eight or nine miles.
+The inundation caused by the descent of rain on the Abyssinian mountains
+commences at the cataracts in June, and in July makes a great show.  The
+rise of the Nile continues till the end of September when it remains
+stationary about three weeks.  In October it rises again, and attains its
+highest level.  When I saw it in November the waters had subsided, and
+the peasants were hard at work, making the best of their opportunity.
+
+The ground was still too wet for ploughing, but gangs were turning up the
+soil with hoes, and sowing the seed.  It seemed to be simple work, under
+the blue sky and the bright sun.  There was no need for high farming;
+Nature did everything, and the toil of the labourer was richly rewarded.
+It made me think of what Douglas Jerrold said of Australia—that it was a
+country so fertile that ‘if you but tickle her with a hoe she laughs with
+a harvest.’  And the harvest is wonderful.  Commercially, the Nile is a
+fortune to Cairo.  It is estimated that if all the land watered by the
+Nile were thoroughly cultivated, Egypt, for its size, would be one of the
+richest countries in the world.  Till the Cairo Waterworks were
+established, the people of Cairo depended solely on the water of the
+Nile; and in Cairo, as in Jerusalem, the water-carrier is still to be
+seen, bearing on his back a large black goatskin filled with water from
+the river.  At the Cairo railway-station he is always in evidence
+watering the platform and keeping down the dust.  The short legs of the
+goat cut off at the knee stick out in a most grotesque manner when the
+skin is full and round.  The neck forms the spout, and is held firmly in
+the left hand, to enable the carrier to sprinkle the contents where
+desired.  The weight of some of these large skins must be very
+considerable.  The skins used for wine are identical in form with these.
+
+In ancient times there were near Cairo no less than seven branches of the
+Nile; only two now remain.  Very busy are the people who have to do with
+the Nile in the vicinity of Cairo.  A large open space at the end of one
+of the bridges is selected for the collection of the octroi duties levied
+upon all food and produce entering the city.  Here the fellaheen assemble
+daily, with their camels and asses laden with produce, or with droves of
+buffaloes and oxen, and flocks of sheep and goats.  The scene there is
+almost picturesque and animated.  Another bridge carried over a wide
+canal, which forms an important backwater to the hill, connects the
+western shore.  From this point roads radiate north, west, and south,
+each shaded by avenues of the acacia, so common in Egypt.  The Ghizeh
+road is the southern one, following the course of the river, always alive
+with boats with large triangular sails, always redolent of busy life.
+
+Egypt without the Nile would be a desert.  ‘Anyone,’ says old Herodotus,
+the father of history, the truth of whose narrative every day becomes
+more apparent to everyone who sees Egypt, without having heard a word
+about it before, ‘must perceive, if he has only common powers of
+observation, that the Egypt to which the Greeks go in their ships is an
+acquired country, the gift of the Nile.’
+
+The prosperity of the country depends upon its inundation: if it should
+prove excessive, and becomes what is termed a high Nile, towns and
+villages are sometimes swept away; if it should not rise above a certain
+height, it is called a low Nile—a large area will be left uncovered, and
+deficient crops will be the result.  Fortunately, a low Nile is of rare
+occurrence.  At one time, the only way of going up the Nile was by the
+dahabeah, a kind of yacht fitted up for the convenience of travellers, an
+expensive and dilatory mode of conveyance.  Now Mr. John Cook has a line
+of fine steamers, and the Nile and the journey up and down is done as
+safely and expeditiously as the trip by the _Clacton Belle_ steamers up
+and down the Thames.  The voyage to Assouan and back is done in three
+weeks.  Facilities are afforded the traveller for the extension of his
+voyage to the second cataract.
+
+Of course, the ancient Egyptians worshipped the Nile.  Hapi, the god of
+the Nile, is represented wearing a cluster of flowers on his head; he is
+coloured red and green, probably to represent the colours of the water of
+the Nile immediately before and just after the beginning of the
+inundation.  An illustration of this worship occurs upon a wall in
+Thebes, where a priest, in his painted robe, is offering incense, while
+others play on a harp, a guitar, and two reed pipes.  This is the song of
+one of the priests who lived 1,400 years before Christ:
+
+    ‘Adoration to the Nile!  Hail, to thee, O Nile! who manifesteth
+    thyself over this land, and comest to give life to Egypt; mysterious
+    is the coming forth from the darkness, watering the orchards created
+    by Ra (the sun-god), to cause all the cattle to live.  Thou givest
+    the earth to drink, inexhaustible one.  Thou createst the corn; thou
+    bringest forth the barley, causing the temples to keep holiday.  If
+    thou ceasest thy toil and thy work, then all that exists is in
+    anguish. . . .  None [Picture: A Tourist Streamer—Cook’s Nile
+    Flotilla] know the place where he dwells; none discover his retreat
+    by the aid of a written spell.  All is changed by the inundation.  It
+    is a healing balm for all mankind.  A festal song is raised for the
+    harp with the accompaniments of the hand,’ etc.
+
+In a valuable work on the Nile, written by Wallis Budge, Acting Assistant
+Secretary in the department of Egyptian and Assyrian Antiquities, British
+Museum, and published by Thomas Cook and Son, we have a beautiful
+illustration of the practical side of Egyptian theology, written by a
+scribe called Ani, who gives his son advice for behaviour in all the
+varied scenes of life.  It is taken from one of the papyri in the
+Egyptian Museum at Ghizeh:
+
+    ‘If a man cometh to seek thy counsel, let this drive thee to look for
+    information.
+
+    ‘Enter not into the house of another; if a man asks thee into his
+    house, it is an honour for thee.
+
+    ‘Spy not upon the acts of another from thy house.
+
+    ‘Be not the first to enter or leave an assembly, that thy name be not
+    tarnished.
+
+    ‘The sanctuary of God abhorreth noisy declamations.  Pray humbly, and
+    with a loving heart whose words are spoken silently; God will then
+    protect thee, and hear thy petitions, and accept thy offerings.
+
+    ‘Consider what hath been.  Set before thee a correct rule of life as
+    an example to follow.  The messenger of death will come to thee, as
+    to others, to carry thee away; yea, he standeth ready.  Words will
+    profit thee nothing, for he cometh—he is ready.  Say not, “I am a
+    child; wouldst thou in very truth bear me away?”  Thou knowest not
+    how thou wilt die.  Death cometh to meet the babe at his mother’s
+    breast, even as he meeteth the old man who hath finished his course.
+
+    ‘Take heed with all diligence that thou woundest no man with thy
+    words.
+
+    ‘Keep one faithful steward only and watch his deeds, and let thy hand
+    protect the man who hath charge of thy house and property.
+
+    ‘The man who hath received much and giveth little is as one who
+    committeth an injury.
+
+    ‘Be not ungrateful to God, for He giveth thee existence.
+
+    ‘Sit not while another standeth, if he be older than thou or if he is
+    thy superior.
+
+    ‘Whosoever speaketh evil receiveth no good.’
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+THE RETURN TO MARSEILLES.
+
+What memories crowd on me as I step into the tug which is to take me and
+the rest of us, in a confused mass, stowed away amidst the luggage, to
+the Custom House at Marseilles, a fine, handsome building, apparently in
+the very heart of the town, with shipping of many nations all around; for
+has not Marseilles in our time come to be the headquarters of all those
+who, fearing the Bay of Biscay, have a mind to make their way along the
+historic shores, and on the blue waters of the Mediterranean?  As I leave
+the Custom House, a friend says to me: ‘I have soon got out.  You see,
+there is nothing lost by civility.  I took my luggage to one of the
+officers, took off my hat to him, and he came directly and let me go
+through.’  I replied to the effect that I was more successful, as I had
+been out a quarter of an hour before my friend, and I never took off my
+hat, but simply held out my Gladstone, which confirms me in my original
+idea, which, I mention for the benefit of travellers, that the real
+secret of getting one’s examination over is simply to have nothing for
+the Custom House officer to search.  [Picture: The New Harbour,
+Marseilles.  From Cassell’s ‘Cities of the World’] Not that I deprecate
+civility; the more I travel in France, the more I appreciate it.  We
+English are a grand people—there are no better men on the face of the
+earth—but we might be a little more civil to one another.
+
+And now I am in Marseilles, a clean, handsome, flourishing city, with an
+enormous population and an enormous trade; and naturally I think of the
+time—now more than a century ago—when the Marseillais set out for Paris.
+‘The notablest of all the moving phenomena of that time,’ writes Carlyle,
+‘is that of Barbaroux’s “six hundred Marseillais who know how to die.”  A
+black-browed mass, full of grim fire,’ got together no one knows how—from
+the _forçats_, say some.  As they march through Lyons, the people shut
+their shops in fear.  ‘The Thought which works voiceless in this
+black-browed mass, an inspired Tyrtæus, Colonel Rouget de Lille, has
+translated into grim melody and rhythm; into his Hymn or March of the
+Marseillaise: luckiest musical-competition ever promulgated.  The sound
+of which will make the blood tingle in men’s veins; and whole Armies and
+Assemblages will sing it, with eyes weeping and burning, with hearts
+defiant of Death, Despot, and Devil.’
+
+Marseilles is a far nobler city than it appears to the tourist as he
+rushes from the train to catch the steamer waiting to bear him far away.
+High above the city, on a precipitous rock, from which you have a grand
+view of the place, and the harbour, and the far-off Mediterranean, stands
+the old Cathedral of Marseilles—Notre Dame de la Garde—a noble Romanesque
+[Picture: Marseilles] building, with a gilt figure of the Virgin at the
+top, her arms extended as if to protect the city.  You reach it either by
+a winding road or a hydraulic lift, for the use of which you pay a
+trifle.  It was there the ancient inhabitants kept watch over sea and
+land.  In time a chapel was erected on its site, which became a place of
+pilgrimage for mariners and fishermen.  The present magnificent building
+was erected in 1864.  If only for the view, the visitor is well repaid
+for his trouble.  Hardly can you enjoy a more magnificent prospect,
+embracing the fair valley of the Rhone, the white houses of Marseilles
+stretching up the plain, the gray mountains of Spain in the far distance,
+the dazzling blue of the Gulf of Lyons, the dark towers of the fort, with
+the rocky, picturesque islands, with the Château d’If, whence, according
+to Dumas, Monte Cristo made his marvellous escape, beyond.  In the city
+itself, on a hill, whence you have also a fine view, is a grand new
+cathedral of imposing form and structure.  It was Sunday when I visited
+it; but there were not many people in it, though more in the heart of the
+city, where I tried to enter a church, it was so crowded that there
+really was no standing-room.  But even in Marseilles you must be cautious
+when the east wind blows.  It was there Dr. Punshon, the greatest
+Wesleyan orator of our time, caught the cold which laid the foundation of
+the illness that ultimately carried him off.
+
+It has a very ancient history, this noble city of Marseilles.  It owes
+its origin to a tribe of Ionian Greeks, who, about 600 B.C., there
+founded a town that ultimately became the head of a Roman province.  In
+the contest between Pompey and Cæsar, the town wished to remain neutral,
+but Cæsar had need of gold, vessels, and harbours, and scrupled not for a
+moment to lay siege to it, which was maintained against him during the
+whole of his long and severe warfare with Afranius and Petreius in Spain,
+and was not taken till after the capture or dispersion of their legions.
+The treatment of the town was so merciless, that from thenceforward, by
+Strabo’s account, it only preserved vestiges of its former prosperity and
+wealth.  However, Marseilles in time recovered from the blow, and chiefly
+by means of the book trade.  It seems to have become a miniature Athens.
+France was especially distinguished by its aptitude and zeal for Roman
+learning.  At Marseilles there was an institution for Greek education and
+literature, which was visited, even in preference to Athens, by men of
+the highest rank.  A large institution of the same kind existed at Autun,
+and Tacitus calls that city the principal seat of Latin culture.  With
+respect to the book trade of Lyons, we have the testimony of the younger
+Pliny, when he states that he learned, with some surprise, from a friend
+that his own discourses and writings were publicly sold there.
+
+In the time of the Crusades Marseilles became a busy place.  It is now
+wholly given up to trade, and flourishes accordingly.  Since 1850 it has
+become the head packet-station on the Mediterranean, and more and more
+frequented by English passengers, who can stay at gorgeous hotels, or
+more economical ones, according to the state of their finances.  If they
+only stop the day, they cannot do better than dine at the buffet attached
+to the railway-station, unless they wish to partake of the famous
+_bouillabaisse_ of which Thackeray sung, and to which my friend—my
+lamented friend—George Augustus Sala, devoted many a learned paragraph in
+his ‘Table Talk’ in the _Illustrated London News_ and elsewhere.  Woe is
+me!  I quite forgot all about it till just as I had to take the train to
+carry me away.  I shall never cease to regret that forgetfulness on my
+part.  It may be that I may live to repair it!
+
+There was a time when this delicious delicacy could be had in Paris.
+Some of us can still remember Thackeray’s beautiful ballad:
+
+    ‘A street there is in Paris famous,
+       For which no rhyme our language yields;
+    Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is,
+       The New Street of the Little Fields.
+
+    ‘And here’s our wish, not rich and splendid,
+       But still in comfortable ease,
+    The which in youth I oft attended
+       To eat a bowl of _bouillabaise_.’
+
+But Marseilles lives on other things than its _bouillabaisse_—a rich soup
+or stew of all sorts of fish—not to be flippantly eaten, not to be
+lightly forgotten.  Some 2,000 vessels fill its capacious harbour.  In
+its lofty bonded warehouses are stored away the merchandise of many
+climes, and its soap-works and sugar-refineries are on an extensive
+scale.  In short, it is the Liverpool of France; but, alas for the pride
+of the Mersey, how much cleaner, brighter, grander! how much purer the
+smokeless atmosphere! how much lovelier the outlook over sea and land!
+It was there that in 1797 that great French statesman, M. Adolphe Thiers,
+was born.  That acute judge of men and books, Abraham Hayward, who was at
+Paris before Thiers had risen, as he did at a later time, describes him,
+in 1844, as ‘a little, insignificant man, till he gets animated, but
+wonderfully clever.’
+
+The one drawback to Marseilles, the only cloud in its blue sky, is the
+drink; and I am glad to find that there is a good man there, Pastor
+Lenoir, who has taken up temperance work, and has carried it on very
+successfully.  Last year, for a novelty, in Marseilles he got up a
+temperance fête, which was a great success.  During the last twenty years
+drinking has greatly increased, and the drink-shops as well.  In 1876
+there were in Marseilles 2,460 drink-shops; now there are 4,205—far too
+many, when we remember that the town has only 600 bakers’ shops and only
+500 schools.  As a consequence, Dr. Rey shows that insanity has greatly
+increased, and that in the hospital of St. Pierre the proportion of
+insane patients whose disease can be traced to alcohol has increased from
+15 per cent. to 31 per cent. of the patients admitted.  ‘The chief
+factor,’ he writes, ‘of these mental diseases is alcohol, and especially
+when to its intoxicating effects is added that of absinthe, and other
+vegetable substances which produce epilepsy and other similar evils.’  In
+this respect, Marseilles teaches us a lesson which it is well to remember
+at home.
+
+In another way Marseilles is a lesson in favour of temperance work.  In
+the district of Villette the drinking classes chiefly dwell.  It is a
+narrow, dirty court, opening on a series of alleys; in the centre runs an
+open gutter—the only drainage of the place—while on either side are small
+one-storied houses, called _cabanons_, let for about eight shillings a
+month.  They are let to the poorest of the poor, and abound with dirt and
+large families and drunkenness; the three in France, as in England,
+generally go hand in hand.  The air is stifling, the odours
+insupportable; and when the sun pours down in the middle of summer, and
+the hot sirocco-like wind blows, the condition of matters is unbearable.
+As I write I see the people of Marseilles, in fear of the plague, will
+not permit travellers from the East, under any pretence whatever, to land
+there.  They had much better look at home, and reform their own sanitary
+arrangements in such districts as Villette.  It is there the good
+Protestant pastor, connected, I believe, with the McAll Mission in Paris,
+labours unweariedly with a band of fellow labourers as devoted as
+himself.  I give the story of one of his rescued men, as an illustration
+of labour-life in the fair city of Marseilles:
+
+    ‘Thibaut is a strong, muscular man, who worked as a docker, and could
+    carry 140 kilos of wool on his shoulders from six o’clock to twelve
+    o’clock without taking rest.  He was an inveterate drunkard, and had
+    on one occasion swallowed _thirty-five glasses of absinthe_, _raw_,
+    _in a day_.  For thirty years he had never set foot in a church, and
+    his wife had died from the effects of his ill-treatment.  Once, in a
+    fit of drunkenness, he threw all that was left of furniture in their
+    miserable home into the street, including the stove, which was
+    alight, and on which their bit of dinner was cooking.  He dragged his
+    wife when ill from her bed by her hair, and threw her into the
+    street.  The day of her death he was found drunk in a public-house,
+    and he followed the remains to the grave reeling.  He lived in the
+    famous “Grand Salon,” in a miserable hut of planks, the most filthy
+    hovel imaginable.  Thibaut was not over-scrupulous as to how he got
+    the drink, without which he could not exist.  There are many ways in
+    which a docker can steal from the cargoes he discharges without being
+    found out.  For instance, there is a way of letting fall a case of
+    wine or cognac, so as to break one bottle, the contents of which then
+    can be quickly absorbed.  Like most French workmen, he wore trousers
+    very baggy at the top, and tied round the ankles.  Such trousers can
+    be made to hold about four pounds of tea or coffee, or such like, and
+    many a time Thibaut has walked past the searchers at the dock-gates
+    with his stock of groceries, and has never been detected.’
+
+He was nearly falling a victim to his drunken habits more than once.
+They are now rejoicing over him at Marseilles, for he that was dead is
+now alive again.  The lost one is found.
+
+If the traveller has time to spare, let him by all means pay Arles a
+visit, where there is a fine Roman amphitheatre, or rather the remains of
+one.  Very early Arles became distinguished in Church history—I was going
+to say Christian history; but, alas, at that time the bitter disputes and
+dissensions in the Church bore little traces of the teachings or the
+example of Christ.  In A.D. 314, when, as Gibbon writes, Constantine was
+the protector, rather than the proselyte of Christianity, he referred the
+African controversy to the Council of Arles, in which the Bishops of
+York, of Treves, of Milan, and of Carthage, met as friends and brethren
+to debate, in their native tongue, on the common interests of the Latin
+or Western Church.  One ancient writer says there were 600 bishops there,
+but this is probably an exaggerated account of their number.  The
+subject, of course, was the nature of the Trinity, the discussions on
+which, inflamed with passion, had filled the Churches with fury, and
+sedition, and schism—a fury which excites the wonder of the modern less
+heated Christian Church.
+
+It was at Arles, at a later period, Constantine repaired to celebrate in
+its palace, with intemperate luxury, a vain and ostentatious triumph—his
+military success against the Goths.  It was at Arles, the seat at that
+time of government and commerce, A.D. 418, that the Emperor Honorius, in
+a solemn address, filled with the strongest assurances of that paternal
+affection which, as Gibbon writes, sovereigns so often express but rarely
+feel, convened an annual assembly consisting of the Pretorian Prefect of
+the Gauls; of seven provincial governors, one consular and six
+presidents; of the magistrates, and perhaps the bishops, of sixty cities;
+and of an indefinite number of leading landed proprietors.  They were
+empowered to interpret the laws of their sovereign, to expose the wishes
+and grievances of their constituents, to moderate the excessive or
+unequal weight of taxes, and to deliberate on every subject of local and
+national importance that would tend to the restoration of peace and
+prosperity to the seven provinces.  It was a step in the right direction.
+It was a step that might have tended, if universally followed, at any
+rate, to retard the decay and decline of the Roman Empire.  But the
+Emperor found that the people were not ready to accept the proffered
+boon.  A fine of three, or even five, ounces of gold was imposed on the
+absent representatives.  Honorius was in advance of his age—in politics
+as great a blunder as being behind it.  It was not till centuries of
+oppression and misgovernment that the rights of man were practically won
+for France, and that Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity became the
+watchwords of the people.
+
+Arles was very early peopled by a colony from Central Italy, and very
+remarkable is the physique of its inhabitants.  The late Lord Malmesbury,
+Lord Derby’s Minister of Foreign Affairs, writes: ‘The women are
+remarkably handsome, but entirely of the Etruscan type, with magnificent
+dark hair and eyes, good teeth, and fair complexions.  They have
+beautiful round throats, set on fine shoulders and busts, but their legs
+are much too short for their general build.’  I am, of course, not a
+judge of such matters, and I prefer to copy from Lord Malmesbury, who, as
+a Foreign Minister and a frequent guest both at the Courts of England and
+France, and a high-born aristocrat as well, had opportunities for the
+pleasing study of woman far superior to any possessed by an ordinary
+scribe.  He had a good opportunity of seeing the population, as it was a
+fête day when he favoured the city with his presence.  He continues:
+‘There were games in the square, such as climbing a greased pole for a
+leg of mutton placed at the top, which no one succeeded in winning.  The
+women were all in costume, with black veils, worn like the mantilla.  I
+noticed that the men were remarkably plain, sallow, under-sized and
+narrow-chested—in every way a remarkable contrast to the women.’  As
+indeed they are, or ought to be, all the world over.
+
+In the neighbourhood is a hermit’s cell, very curiously contrived in the
+rock, where there was a secret way of escaping to the deeper recesses and
+hiding in case of danger.  There was the stone bed of the hermit who is
+said to have been the first to introduce Christianity into the province.
+His name is held in high esteem and a church is dedicated to his memory.
+It was upon the plains adjoining that Charles Martel gained his final
+victory over the Saracens.  The Roman amphitheatre in Arles is in a fine
+state of preservation, with towers added in the Middle Ages.
+
+Soldiers have a mission hall to themselves in Marseilles, which is full
+of them, and to the hall many come for peace and light.  The aggregate
+attendance is set down at nearly 6,000.  The hall offers them a warm,
+comfortable room, well lighted, with books, games, newspapers, and other
+conveniences.  A lady gives them elementary lessons in French,
+arithmetic, reading, and writing.  When the soldiers sailed to Madagascar
+they took with them, in spite of the priests, 3,000 copies of the New
+Testament.  The labours of the agents of the McAll Mission are numerous
+and persevering.  Last year they held about 500 meetings for adults.
+They have five schools for children, besides two sewing schools for
+girls.  There are three mothers’ meetings, with a fair attendance, and a
+mission choir does good work.
+
+Of more recent formation, and perhaps less well known, is the Society of
+Christian Endeavour.  It has given proof of its existence in various
+ways.  It was the Endeavourers who organized four series of lectures, of
+three each, which were given in the halls of the Grand Chemin de Toulon
+and the Boulevard de Strasbourg.  Friends were much encouraged to see
+each time a large and attentive audience; the lectures had been announced
+by means of handbills distributed in profusion throughout the district.
+The society takes charge also of the visitation of the sick, and the
+distribution of tracts in the suburbs, at the gates of the factories and
+workshops, etc.  Some of the sisters have taken to heart the work among
+fallen women, and in one case, at least, they have been able to snatch
+one of these poor creatures from her life of sin, and place her in a
+neighbouring refuge.  And so good work gets done, quietly and
+unobtrusively.
+
+There were put in circulation last year through the Librairie Evangélique
+12,000 almanacks, 4,500 Bibles and Testaments, 1,000 tracts, 1,000 books
+of various kinds, and 600 copies of the _Relévement_.  Open Bibles and
+Testaments are constantly displayed also in the large shop-window, where
+the passers-by can stop and read at their leisure—a thing which a goodly
+number of them do not fail to do.  Nor are the Italians, of whom there
+are many in the town, overlooked.  But I pass on
+
+    ‘To kinder skies, where gentler manners reign,
+    I turn, and France displays her bright domain;
+    Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease,
+    Pleased with thyself whom all the world can please.’
+
+And pleasant recollections come to us of Oliver Goldsmith, who, as he
+tells us, oft led
+
+                ‘The sportive choir
+    With tuneless pipe beside the murmuring Loire.’
+
+The traveller who does as the writer did—leaves the train at Marseilles,
+and travels home slowly, will find as much pleasure in that little trip
+as in any part of his pilgrimage to the East.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+AVIGNON.
+
+Leaving Marseilles, the place at which I tarried next was Avignon, where
+I had comfortable and cheap quarters at the Hôtel Grillon.  It was there
+I saw the only drunken man that came under my notice in France.  It was
+market-day, and the town was full of country-folk, many of whom came to
+my hotel for the excellent _déjeuner_ provided for guests; amongst then
+was an individual—not a farmer, for he did not wear a blouse—who managed,
+in spite of the fact that he had had quite enough, to consume the quart
+bottle of _vin ordinaire_ which, in French country hotels, every one is
+supposed to take at lunch and drink.  The allowance was too much for me.
+The lunch in every case was so excellent and tempting that I could not
+manage another heavy meal, and was glad to content myself with tea.  One
+thing surprised me at all the country hotels, and that was the
+predominance of the military element.  At every meal there were great
+numbers of officers present, and, so far as I could judge by the way in
+which these sons of Mars did justice to the good things provided, all in
+first-rate physical condition.  Avignon is full of soldiers—we met them
+everywhere.  All round the place the old walls seemed turned into
+barracks.
+
+I stopped at Avignon to see the burial-place of John Stuart Mill.  He was
+fond of Avignon, and spent a great deal of his life there.  I am afraid,
+on the whole, he was rather a hard, cold man.  He had a sister living in
+Paris, but, often as he passed through it, he never went to see her.  I
+suppose he had learnt a good deal from Godwin’s ‘Political Justice,’
+which had a great influence at one time among superior people, I
+remember, when I read it many years ago.  You never see the book now.
+Godwin shows how wrong is the indulgence of social and family affection.
+Perhaps the philosopher’s way of looking at such things is the right one,
+after all.  As I was sitting with a friend, a philosopher, on board the
+_Midnight Sun_, a gentleman, to whom we were neither of us particularly
+attached, passed us.  ‘I think I could save that man’s life,’ I said.
+‘Why should you?’ he asked; ‘ought we not to think of the greatest
+happiness of the greatest number?’  The reply was irresistible, and I
+acquiesced.  ‘Is it not the survival of the fittest,’ I asked myself,
+‘that best accords with Nature’s scheme?  “If,” says Godwin, “you are in
+a boat with your father and a philosopher, and you meet with an accident,
+you are to save the philosopher and leave your father to perish.”’
+
+Mill’s philosophy seems to have been of a similar character.  At any
+rate, his sister’s husband complained much, to an acquaintance of mine,
+of the philosopher’s neglect.  But his worship of Mrs. Taylor, who
+afterwards became his wife, was intense.  They sleep together in the same
+grave in the cemetery, a mile or two out of Avignon.  On the tomb is the
+inscription: ‘John Stuart Mill, born 20 May, 1806, died 4 May, 1873,’ and
+that is all.  On the surface of the tomb—a plain white flat one—is a long
+eulogium of his wife, who had died before him.  Her influence, the
+inscription records, has been felt in many of the greatest improvements
+of the age, and will be felt in time to come.  Following her life, we are
+told, this earth would become the type of heaven.  Her death is described
+as ‘an irreparable loss.’  The grave is separated by an iron rail from
+the rest, and is fringed with a few evergreens.  It is plain and simple,
+and certainly much more in accordance with English taste than the rest.
+
+One should visit the cemetery, if only to see what a French cemetery
+is—all glitter and glass, for many of the flowers placed on the tombs are
+under glass, and the place was quite dazzling in the summer—or, rather,
+the autumn—sun.  The ground is carefully laid out, and well planted with
+trees and flowering shrubs.  It seems to me of considerable extent, and
+people come there every day to place fresh flowers on the graves of those
+they love.  It was early in the morning when I was there, yet a good many
+ladies were engaged in their pious work.  By most of the graves were
+chairs placed for the mourners, who love to repair to such a place.  It
+is evident that family affection is strong in France.
+
+Avignon, I should think, is a pleasant place in which to reside, with its
+mild atmosphere and a nice country all round.  There is a broad promenade
+(if a short one), with a monument to a native worthy, and trees;
+[Picture: The Castle of the Popes, Avignon.  From Cassell’s ‘Cities of
+the World.’] but away in the interior the streets are narrow and
+ill-fashioned.  It boasts a cathedral, a museum, and an Hôtel de Ville,
+and tramcars run backward and forward all day long.  In the early days of
+the French Revolution it was all for union and the ‘Contrat Social’ of
+the worthy Jean Jacques Rousseau; and yet it burst forth with its 15,000
+brave brigands, headed by Jourdain.  In 1789 the French Assembly declared
+that Avignon and the Comtat were incorporated with France, and that His
+Holiness the Pope should say what indemnity was reasonable.
+
+‘Papal Avignon,’ writes Carlyle, in his wonderful ‘French Revolution,’
+‘with its castle rising sheer over the Rhone-stream; beautifullest town,
+with its purple vines and gold-orange groves; why must foolish old
+rhyming Réné, the last sovereign of Provence, bequeath it to the Pope and
+gold tiara—not rather to Louis XI. with the Leaden Virgin in his hatband?
+For good and for evil!  Popes, Antipopes, with their pomp, have dwelt in
+the Castle of Avignon rising sheer over the Rhone-stream; there Laura de
+Sade went to hear Mass; her Petrarch twanging and singing by the Fountain
+of Vaucluse hard by, surely in a most melancholy manner.’
+
+Speaking of Petrarch, naturally one’s thoughts turn to Rienzi, the
+Italian liberator, who fell because the Roman people were not at that
+time prepared for freedom.  ‘When,’ writes Lord Lytton, in his splendid
+novel, ‘Rienzi,’ ‘the capital of the Cæsars witnessed the triumph of
+Petrarch, the scholastic fame of the young Rienzi had attracted the
+friendship of the poet—a friendship that continued, with a slight
+exception, to the last.’
+
+Rienzi was one of the Roman deputies who had been sent to Avignon to
+supplicate Clement VI. to remove the Holy See back to Rome.  It was on
+this mission that Rienzi for the first time gave indication of his
+extraordinary power of eloquence and persuasion.  The pontiff, indeed,
+more desirous of ease than glory, was not convinced by the arguments, but
+he was enchanted with the pleader, and Rienzi returned to Rome laden with
+honours and clothed with the dignity of high and responsible office.  No
+longer the inactive scholar, the gay companion, he rose at once to
+pre-eminence amongst all his fellow-citizens.  Never before had authority
+been borne with so austere an integrity, so uncorrupt a zeal.  He had
+thought to impregnate his colleagues with the same loftiness of
+principle, but in this respect he had failed.  Now, secure in his
+footing, he had begun openly to appeal to the people, and already a new
+spirit seemed to animate the populace of Rome.  According to modern
+historians, Petrarch and Rienzi went to Avignon together, but, says Lord
+Lytton, it was more probable that Rienzi’s mission was posterior to that
+of Petrarch.  However that may be, it was at Avignon that Petrarch and
+Rienzi became most intimate, as Petrarch observes in one of his letters.
+Perhaps it would have been better for Italy and better for the Roman
+Catholic Church had they never returned to Rome.  If the reader doubts
+this, let him read Zola’s ‘Rome.’  It was in 1309 that Clement moved his
+Court thither, and for sixty-eight years, until 1377, Avignon continued
+to be the Papal residence.  The six successors of Clement V., all of them
+Frenchmen, like himself, were regarded by the Italians with feelings of
+dislike and contempt.  They were little more than the ecclesiastical
+agents of the French monarchy.
+
+The climax in the history of Avignon was reached when, in 1309, Clement
+V. removed thither from Rome, and made Avignon the seat of the Roman
+Pontiff and the metropolis of Christendom.  By land, by sea, by the
+Rhone—the position of Avignon, writes Gibbon, was at all times
+accessible—the southern provinces of France do not yield to Italy itself;
+new palaces arose for the accommodation of the Pope and Cardinals, and
+the arts of luxury were soon attracted by the treasures of the Church.  A
+part of the adjoining country had long belonged to the Popes, and the
+sovereignty of Avignon was purchased from the youth and distress of Jane,
+the first Queen of Naples and Countess of Provence.
+
+Under the shadow of the French monarchy, amidst an obedient people, the
+Popes enjoyed a tranquillity to which they had long been strangers.
+Italy deplored their loss, but the Sacred College was filled with French
+Cardinals, who regarded Rome and Italy with abhorrence and contempt.
+What remains of the Papal Palace is now turned into barracks, of which
+you get a good view from the station as you leave for Lyons or Paris.
+Dr. Arnold, who paid it a passing visit, was struck with horror by the
+sight of its dungeons.  From Avignon the Pope prosecuted a bitter
+persecution of his neighbours, the Waldenses.  The King of France was
+alarmed, and sent an officer to inquire into the matter.  The report was
+favourable.  ‘Then,’ said the King, ‘they are much better Christians than
+myself or Catholic subjects, and therefore they shall not be persecuted.’
+He was as good as his word, and the Pope at Avignon had for a time to
+forbear, or Avignon might have had as bloody a record as Rome itself.
+But at Avignon they do not think of these things.  All round the old city
+are the mulberry trees and the silkworms; and the farmers want protection
+for their native industry, and to keep foreign raw silk out of the
+market.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+
+THE GREAT CITY OF LYONS.
+
+In one of the first books which used to be placed in the hands of young
+people when I was a lad—Fox’s ‘Book of Martyrs’—we get rather an
+unpleasant idea of Lyons.  ‘There,’ writes old Fox, ‘the martyrs were
+condemned to sit in iron chains till their flesh broiled.  Some were sewn
+up in nets and thrown on the horns of wild bulls, and the carcases of
+those who died in prison previous to the time of execution were thrown to
+dogs.  Indeed, so far did the malice of pagans proceed that they set
+guards over the bodies while the beasts were devouring them, lest the
+friends of the deceased should get them by stealth, and the offal not
+devoured by the dogs was ordered to be burnt.’  After this we get a
+little indignant as we turn to Gibbon, and read of the mild and
+beneficent spirit of the ancient polytheism, which seems to find such
+favour in his eyes.  To-day all is changed.  Christians, in the shape of
+Roman Catholics, have it all their own way; yet one of the handsomest
+places of worship I saw was that of the Reformed Church.  One of the
+earliest reformers, Waldo, the leader of the Albigenses, was born at
+Lyons.
+
+The McAll Mission is doing a good work at Lyons, though in some districts
+they have to report a falling off.  They seek to get hold of the
+children, but they find in this respect the priests are as active as
+themselves.  By means of the _œuvres de patronage_ founded by the
+Catholics many of the children are drawn away.  In one of the immense
+remote suburbs of Lyons the mothers’ meeting plays an important part in
+the work of evangelization.  In many quarters Bible-readings have been
+found to be very successful, and there is a Y.M.C.A., to which many young
+men belong.  As a rule, French Protestantism is not aggressive, else it
+would not be what it is to-day.  Still, during the last few years the
+churches have waked up wonderfully, and much good has been the result.
+Be this as it may, Lyons is the finest city next to Paris that France can
+boast of.  It has a population of about half a million, and the Rhone
+runs through it, adding much to its picturesqueness, as its banks are
+lined with stately houses and offices and shops.  There are some twenty
+bridges over the river, most of them very handsome.  At night you seem a
+little lonely as you watch the long rows of lamps that glitter along the
+banks.  But by day the picture is reversed: there is busy life
+everywhere, and so clean and handsome are the buildings that you can
+scarcely realize that Lyons is planted with silk-mills, and that, in
+fact, it is the centre of the great silk trade of France.  The trees,
+planted everywhere on the quays, which are used as promenades, make it a
+very charming residence.
+
+Lyons has a very ancient history.  It was adorned by successive Roman
+Emperors, and became the capital of Gaul.  It was the principal mart for
+the Western provinces of the Empire.  Agrippa made it the starting-point
+for four great military roads that traversed Gaul.  Suddenly it
+disappeared.  As Seneca writes: ‘There was but one night between a great
+city and nothing.’  Aided by Nero, however, it speedily rose from its
+ashes.  The city fared badly in the decline and fall of the Roman Empire.
+Alaric, the scourge of God, sacked it.  In 571 the Lombards ravaged it;
+in 715 the Saracens appeared, and left it a heap of ruins.  Under
+Charlemagne it became a city of light and learning.  Towards the end of
+the ninth century it came under the rule of the Archbishops and Chapter
+of St. John.  In 1312 Philip le Bel annexed the city to France.  The
+Lyons of to-day is a stately city, splendidly situated at the junction of
+the Rhone and the Saone—a junction which gave the great Pitt a fine
+passage in one of his finest speeches.
+
+The Lyonnais, says the writer of an excellent account of Lyons in
+Cassell’s ‘Cities of the World,’ think the Place Bellecour the finest
+square in Europe.  It is planted with trees, and ornamented with basins
+and fountains and two elegant pavilions, and is a very favourite
+promenade of the people of Lyons, especially when the military band
+plays.  According to some, the name is derived from _bella curia_, and
+denotes the site of a Roman tribunal.  In the Middle Ages the Place was a
+muddy swamp, often covered by the waters of the Rhone; it was gradually
+drained and improved by the Consulate, and surrounded with fine
+buildings.  After the Peace of Utrecht, a bronze statue of Louis le
+Grand—the King who, by revoking the Edict of Nantes, nearly ruined Lyons,
+to please the Maintenon and her Jesuit [Picture: The Place Belleour,
+Lyons.  (From Cassell’s ‘Cities of the World.’)] friends—was set up in
+the centre.  At the Revolution of 1792 the statue was pulled down and
+broken up.  Some proposed simply to replace the King’s head with a head
+of Brutus, but the multitude would not hear of it.  On this spot perished
+some of the first victims of the fusillade in the terrible siege by the
+Republican army in the following year.  When the siege was over, Couthon
+set his troop of _démolisseurs_ to work, and the beautiful façades of the
+Place Bellecour were soon irretrievably ruined, and the subsequent
+erections have not reproduced the monumental character of the original
+buildings.  The Place was still covered with débris when, in April, 1805,
+the populace of the city, upon their knees, received the blessing of Pope
+Pius VII., who was then in France as the half-guest, half-prisoner, of
+Napoleon.  On March 11, 1815, the Orleans princes hastened from the town
+as the advance guard of Napoleon, returning from Elba, was crossing the
+Pont de la Guillotière.  On the morrow the Emperor reviewed 15,000
+soldiers in the Place Bellecour, amidst the acclamations of the populace.
+But the Empire passed away, and in 1825 the restored King placed a second
+statue of Louis XIV. in the centre of the Place.
+
+Churches abound in Lyons.  One of them, that of St. Nizien, in memory of
+a bishop of that name, is placed on the spot where one of its martyr
+bishops, St. Pothinus, assembled his flock.  It has been rebuilt many
+times, and is interesting not only as the cradle of Christianity in
+Lyons—it was also the cradle of its civil liberty.  Here the growing
+commune met in the days of its resistance to the bishops, and the bell of
+the ancient tower used to call the citizens together to elect their
+magistrate.  Near the Church of Ainay was the ancient Forum, where
+Greeks, Orientals, Africans, Gauls, and Spaniards met to exchange the
+products of their various commerce.  In the Forum was an altar dedicated
+to the Emperor Augustus and Rome, and near it was the Temple of Augustus.
+In the church was sacredly preserved some hair of the Virgin Mary, and
+part of the cradle and some of the swaddling clothes of our Saviour.  In
+the western part of the city, beyond the Saone, are found some very
+interesting churches.  St. Irénée was built by the Bishop St. Patient in
+the fifth century.  In the crypt is a well into which, according to
+tradition, the bodies of 19,000 Christians were thrown when the Emperor
+Severus revenged himself on Lyons for its adherence to the cause of
+Albinus.  Nearer to the river stands the Church of St. Just.  In
+connection with it was a vast monastery, with massive walls and towers.
+In its cloisters many sovereigns found a safe asylum.  Innocent IV. was
+one, another was the Regent Louise, while her son Francis I. was fighting
+in Italy, and here she received the famous letter after the Battle of
+Pavia: ‘All is lost except honour.’
+
+Still nearer to the river stands the Church of St. Jean Baptiste, the
+Cathedral of Lyons.  In one of the chapels attached to the church was
+some wood of the true cross; in another is preserved the heart of St.
+Vincent de Paul.  The Chapter of the Cathedral of Lyons was the most
+important body of clergy in France; they were thirty-two in number, all
+Counts of Lyons, the rank of Premier Canon being held by the reigning
+King of France.  Amongst the remarkable events that have occurred here
+was the Council General of 1245, when Innocent IV. hurled the thunders of
+the Church against Frederick II., and where, for the first time, the
+Cardinals wore the red dress to distinguish them from other prelates.  In
+1274 a Council General held here formed a short-lived union of the Latin
+and Greek Churches.  In this church Henry II., Emperor of Germany,
+performed mass, in one of his efforts to desert his throne and take Holy
+Orders.  And here, in 1600, Henry of Navarre renewed his marriage with
+Marie de Medicis.  Close by is the Archiepiscopal Palace, the magnificent
+apartments of which have accommodated many kings and queens and eminent
+personages.  Napoleon passed a night here on his return from Elba.  On
+that awful St. Bartholomew’s Day, in the courtyard of the Palace, 300
+Protestants were murdered.
+
+Thence you ascend by steep and narrow steps to the Church of Notre Dame,
+on the hill of St. Fourvières.  All round are priestly residences and
+numerous shop for the sale of ecclesiastical millinery.  Higher up are
+the merchants who deal in rosaries, devotional pictures, medals, and wax
+models of different parts of the body, for offerings in the church, when
+the time comes for the multitudes of pilgrims who throng thither to
+obtain pardon of sin and restoration of health.  One would have thought
+that an anachronism in the France of to-day; but we know how credulity
+reigns rampant, in spite of the philosopher, in every nation in the
+world.  It was our Thomas à Becket, who spent part of an exile in Lyons,
+who seems to have suggested a church on this spot.  In 1643 Lyons was
+ravaged by a terrible pest, and the municipality dedicated Lyons to Notre
+Dame in perpetuity, and until the Revolution of 1789 the whole city
+celebrated, on the Feast of the Nativity, the anniversary of the event.
+Pope Pius, in 1805, superintended the rededication of the building to
+Divine worship, and, amidst a grand display of flags, discharge of
+cannon, and ringing of bells from the summit of the hill, blessed the
+city of Lyons, as Innocent had done centuries before.  In December, 1852,
+Lyons was _en fête_ day and night, on the occasion of the planting of a
+colossal statue of the Virgin on the top of the tower.  Like ancient
+Ephesus, it lived on its saints.  Happily, unlike Ephesus, it stuck to
+trade, and became wealthy, and populous, and great.  The Quai de St.
+Clair is the finest in Lyons, and was formerly the rendezvous of
+merchants and foreigners, and the centre of Lyonese trade.  One of the
+many quays in Lyons, that known as Les Etroit, a charming promenade, is
+associated with the memory of Rousseau, in the days of his youthful
+poverty.
+
+Its modern Hôtel de Ville is held to be one of the handsomest in Europe,
+and that is saying a great deal when we think of Brussels or Louvain.
+Its cathedral of St. Jean Baptiste took three centuries to build.  The
+city is one of the Roman Catholic strongholds, and to some of its
+churches resort every year as many as 1,500,000 pilgrims, who obtain
+similar privileges to those accorded to the devotees at Loretto.
+
+Now that Lyons is at peace, it exports to England, America, and Russia,
+manufactured silks to the amount of £18,000,000 yearly.  It is to
+Jacquard that it owes its silk manufacture, and a statue of him properly
+graces the city.  For many years it had been renowned for its
+manufactures, but in 1802, a workman originally, Jacquard lived to
+revolutionize the silk trade, and laid the foundation of its present
+prosperity.  Its workshops for the construction of machinery, its
+manufactories of chemical products and coloured papers, are justly
+celebrated; but it is from the production of its silk fabrics that Lyons
+derives its chief fame.  This industry, in which Lyons has no rival, was
+first brought from Italy.  Florentines, Genoese, and others, driven away
+by revolutions, did for France what in after-times expatriated Frenchmen
+did for other countries to which they were compelled to flee by reason of
+tyranny at home.  By decree of Louis XI., experienced workmen settling at
+Lyons were exempt from taxes levied on other inhabitants.  Twelve
+thousand silk-weavers were busy at work in Lyons by the middle of the
+sixteenth century.  At the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, it seemed
+as if the silk industry was about to be annihilated.  More than
+three-fourths of the looms were silenced; but in the course of a couple
+of generations the industry resumed its former proportions, and steadily
+increased, till Lyons became _par excellence_ the city of beautiful
+silks.  The Lyonnese silk-weavers mostly work in their own dwellings.  A
+man with his family will keep from two to six or eight looms going, often
+employing journeymen.  The silk-merchants of Lyons, about 600 in number,
+supply the patterns and the silk; there are about 40,000 looms at work in
+the city and in the vicinity.  Formerly, the weavers were nearly all
+grouped together in the northern part of the city, but the employers, in
+order to lessen the influence of the close trade organizations, have
+succeeded in distributing the industry throughout the neighbouring
+villages, though La Croix-Rousse still holds the lion’s share.  Its silks
+still maintain their prestige.  The Empress of Germany last year
+purchased at Lyons white silk, with flowers, birds, and foliage in
+relief, at twenty-five pounds a yard, five-sixths of the price being the
+actual value of the raw silk.  She intended to have a dress made of it,
+but it was so beautiful that she used it for a curtain.  This is believed
+to be the highest priced silk goods ever made.  Louis XIV. paid twelve
+pounds a yard for the cloth-of-gold material of which his dressing-gown
+was made.  Lyons has been the birthplace of many distinguished and
+illustrious personages—Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius and Marcus
+Aurelius, the philosopher-king; the ruler who preferred the solitude of
+the student to the splendour of the palace; the soldier who loved the
+arts of peace better than the glory of war; who left to the world his
+‘Meditations,’ which, even at this era of the world’s history, it does us
+good to read.  Another native of Lyons whose works were at one time much
+read in England was J. B. Say, the famous political writer.  Another of
+the modern glories of Lyons was Louise Labé, the Lyons Sappho, surnamed
+La Belle Cordière.  Another was Roland, the great statesman, the husband
+of a yet more illustrious wife.  Irenæus, Bishop of Lyons, was one of the
+victims of what Fox terms the fifth general persecution, and it is
+generally supposed that the account of the persecution in Lyons was
+written by him.  He was beheaded in A.D. 202.
+
+‘Lyons,’ says the Guide-Book, ‘embraced with ardour the cause of the
+Revolution, and it suffered frightfully in consequence; but the Patriots
+knew nothing of the dark days to come, as they formed one bright May
+morning the Federation of Lyons, in which some fifty or sixty thousand of
+its citizens took part.  What a picture Carlyle gives us of the Lyons
+guardsmen meeting at five on the Quai de Rhone, marching thence to the
+Federation Field, amid waving of hats and ladies’ handkerchiefs, great
+shoutings of some two hundred thousand patriot voices and hearts—the
+beautiful and brave! ‘amongst whom, courting no notice, and yet notablest
+of all, what queen-like figure is this, with her escort of house friends
+and Champagneux, the Patriot editor?  Radiant with enthusiasm are those
+dark eyes in that strong Minerva face, looking dignity and earnest
+joy—joy-fullest she where all is joyful!  It is Roland de Platière’s
+wife; that elderly Roland, King’s inspector of manufactures here, and now
+likewise, by popular choice, the strictest of our new Lyons Municipals—a
+man who has gained much, if worth and faculty be gain; but, above all
+things, has gained to wife Philipon, the Paris engraver’s daughter.
+Reader, mark that queen-like burgher woman, beautiful, graceful to the
+eye, much more so to the mind.’
+
+Lyons had a bitter awakening—famine, ruin, and despair; a long siege and
+an awful doom.  The cry in Paris is, ‘Lyons has rebelled against the
+Republic; Lyons is no more.’  The infamous Fouché is there, and the
+hangman follows.  There is no end to the fusillading and filibustering,
+and mangled corpses float down the Rhone.  The picture is too awful; let
+us draw the curtain, and think of Madame Roland, as in her grace and
+glory she helped to give—alas! in vain—freedom to Lyons and to France.  I
+think of her as I take the train, and bid adieu to a city so splendid and
+so replete with associations, some pleasant, others much the reverse.
+Under the Consulate and the Empire Lyons once more rose to life and
+prosperity.  Bonaparte did much for the city in the way of restoration.
+In 1829 General La Fayette, that mild, well-meaning, but mistaken man,
+came there to receive an ovation.  Once more Lyons throbbed with joy.
+But its troubles were not over.  In 1831 the workmen rose in revolution,
+and the Duke of Orleans and Marshal Soult had to come there to put it
+down.  This was followed by a disastrous inundation, and in 1849, and
+again in 1870, it was on the point of and was in connection with the
+Commune of Paris, which had active agents there.  The French _ouvrier_ is
+always discontented, and has no faith in God; yet Lyons is still the
+second city of France, in spite of the fact that not long since the
+President of the French Republic was assassinated there.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+
+DIJON, OR THE WINE COUNTRY.
+
+As an illustration of what a French provincial town is in the way of
+hotels, I would take Dijon, where I stopped a night on my way from Lyons
+to Paris.  From Marseilles to Dijon the country is interesting, giving
+fine views of the valley of the Loire and hills and mountains far away.
+From thence to Paris the ride is uninteresting.  I suppose a great many
+people stop at Dijon, as it abounds in magnificent hotels, all of which
+seem to flourish.  I put up at the Hôtel de Jura, close to the
+railway-station, and I feel as proud as a lord as I enjoy the luxury of
+that well-appointed hotel.  My bedroom is delicious, very unlike that of
+an English hotel.  Everyone in the house seems smiling and civil.  The
+dining-room is large and lofty, the cuisine is excellent, and the
+smoking-room is elegantly furnished, as much so as a drawing-room in
+England.  I feel that I am in France, and that there they manage better
+than they do with us.  I go into the shop, and the shopkeeper and his men
+all wear the blue blouse of the country.  If I buy anything, it is done
+up for me in the most careful manner, and so profuse are the thanks of
+the shopkeeper and his wife that I leave with a feeling that my visit has
+been a real benefit to the town.
+
+There is much to see in Dijon; it is an ancient city, formerly the
+capital of Burgundy, and still the headquarters of its extensive wine
+trade.  Let us hope that the dealers are honest men, as burgundy is much
+in demand in my native land.  What I have at the hotel is excellent and
+cheap, and this is the great difficulty in France in the way of any
+national temperance movement.  Like the Cape, like Australia, the wine
+trade is an important factor in the national life.  It is the Diana of
+the Ephesians.  Try to check it, and everyone is up in arms.  The
+traveller is bound to drink.  At lunch he has a quart bottle of red or
+white wine placed before him, and it is just the same at dinner.  The
+wine is included in the bill, and it is all the same whether you drink it
+or leave it alone.  If there is a family dining or lunching together, the
+bottle goes round, and perhaps a glass or two will suffice; but a
+solitary traveller has his two quart bottles to tackle per day, and what
+are you to do?—one is afraid to drink water when travelling, as there may
+be poison in the pot.  A similar remark applies to milk.  It is sadly
+liable to infection, and it may be that, when you ask for it, it may
+prove no exception to the general rule.  I remember how Sir Russell
+Reynolds, when on a Continental tour, confined himself to milk, and on
+his return to England had a serious illness in consequence.  No wonder,
+then, that as a rule the ordinary traveller sticks to the wine of the
+country, which is little intoxicating, and has a pleasant favour that
+helps much in its consumption.
+
+I fancy the burgundy of Dijon is much purer and pleasanter than that of
+London.  Nevertheless, two quarts of it a day are rather too much.  I got
+rid of the difficulty by sacrificing my dinner and having tea instead.
+Dijon is a very ancient city, and full of very interesting remains.
+Indeed, I fancy it is one of the most interesting cities in France.  In
+an old engraving of it which I have, it is surrounded by a wall, and
+seems a city of church spires, and its ecclesiastical buildings are very
+old and numerous, but the walls are gone, and handsome boulevards have
+taken their place.  Its modern fame depends on its wine, its spiced
+bread, and its mustard.  I buy a mustard-pot—a characteristic specimen of
+French ingenuity.  It is an earthenware pig.  The back is hollow.  You
+take off the top, and there is the place for the mustard and a long
+mustard-spoon, the crooked end of which does duty as a tail.  The animal
+has his nose in a trough, which is divided into two portions, one for
+pepper, the other for salt.  I am proud of that mustard-pot, and only use
+it on state occasions.  At Avignon the mustard-pot was equally a
+combination, but of a less artistic character.  It was simply a blue
+earthenware pot with the mustard in the centre, while just below are two
+little recesses, one for the pepper and one for the salt; and these you
+see at really good hotels in preference to the costlier electroplate
+mustard-pots in use nearer home.  At Thetford they make unbreakable
+earthenware.  I should recommend the company to try a few mustard-pots _à
+la Francaise_.
+
+Dijon, says the guide-book—one of that excellent series in red known as
+_Guide-Ioannes_, to be purchased for a franc, sometimes less, at all
+French railway-stations—is one of the most interesting cities in France,
+containing 63,425 inhabitants.  It is situated at the junction of the
+Ouche and the Suzon, at the foot of the mountains of the Côte d’Or, and
+at the commencement of a fruitful valley which stretches as far as the
+Jura.  It is lovely—when I was there it rained, and I did not see much of
+its loveliness—well built and salubrious.  Its principal attractions are
+the Cathedral of St. Benigne, the Churches of Notre Dame and St. Michel,
+and the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Palace of Justice, the
+museum containing the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy and the remains of
+the Chartreuse de Chamoi.  Wherever you go you meet with old houses and
+architecture of the most interesting character.  It is a place to be
+visited carefully by the artist.  He will find much to interest him at
+every step.  In England we have nothing like it.  In the troubles and
+wars which led, after many ages, to the establishment of a united France
+under one monarch, Dijon became a place of great importance and the seat
+of a legislative assembly.  Originally a second-rate Roman settlement, it
+had become Christianized by the preaching of St. Benigne, who died a
+martyr for his faith, and to whom, as I have already stated, the great
+cathedral was consecrated; yet it did not become the seat of a bishopric
+till 1731.  For ages the Dukes of Burgundy resided there, and at a later
+time it gave to France its grand pulpit orator, Bossuet, and to the
+Church St. Bernard.  In 1477 the French King gained possession of the
+city, and the rule of the Dukes of Burgundy came to an end.
+
+‘The Lord of Craon,’ writes old Philip de Commines—the father of modern
+history, whose memoirs, writes Mr. Hallam, almost make an epoch in
+historical literature—‘when he drew near Burgundy, sent forward the
+Prince of Orange and others to Dijon to use persuasion and require the
+people to render obedience to the King, and they managed the matter so
+adroitly, principally by means of the Prince of Orange, that the city of
+Dijon and all the other towns in the duchy of Burgundy, together with
+many others in the country, gave in their allegiance to the King.’
+Whether the people gained much by the change is not very clear.
+Apparently, Commines did not think Dijon had much cause for thankfulness.
+‘In my opinion,’ he writes, ‘of all the countries in the world with which
+I was ever acquainted, the government is nowhere so well managed, the
+people nowhere less obnoxious to violence and oppression, nor their
+houses less liable to be destroyed by violence or oppression, than in
+England, for these calamities only fall upon the authors of them.’  I
+suppose the people of Dijon were of a similar way of thinking, as the
+writer of the guide-book tells us that ‘_Dijon adopta avec enthousiasme
+les principes de la Révolution_.’  Happily its victims during that reign
+of terror were few.  In the war with France the Germans got hold of
+Dijon; but Garibaldi came to the rescue.  Now Dijon is at peace, and long
+may it so remain, its hotels affording rest and refreshment to the weary
+traveller, and its wine, when taken in moderation, making glad the heart
+of man.  Let me make one remark as a hint to the tourist.  Possibly he
+sees in the Continental Bradshaw an advertisement of a hotel where the
+charges are rather less than those of others.  He goes there, but he
+finds no reduction.  The excuse is that the lower charge is not for the
+hasty traveller, but for the one who comes to stay.
+
+As a recent writer in _Temple Bar_ remarks, the general air of pride and
+prosperity indicates that the capital of the duchy thrives excellently as
+a member of the Republic.  The Rue de Liberté reminds us of some of our
+old English towns.  Step aside into any of the cross-streets, and you
+find yourself in a labyrinth of crooked by-ways and carved doors, by the
+side of low angular bell-towers, which seem to have come straight from
+some old Flemish city, or you come to quaint, quiet, detached squares,
+planted with young trees, with white detached houses all round some of
+them, remnants of feudal hotels.  In the Salle des Gardes of the old
+palace the tombs of the two greatest Dukes may still be seen.  The
+palace, a huge, stately, modernized building, is now a museum, a
+picture-gallery, and the headquarters of all local and departmental
+business.  It is there that the French Protestants of to-day worship.
+The Church of Notre Dame, of which the great Condé declared that it
+should be packed in a jeweller’s box to preserve it, is beautiful outside
+as in.  It is the mother-church, to which the Dijonais cling, where their
+children are baptized and brought on their First Communion.  It is
+crowded of a Sunday.  Nor is St. Michel externally less impressive; but
+the interior is described as dowdy and disappointing.  But, after all, I
+fancy the chief visitors to Dijon are the wine-merchants, and others
+interested in the wine trade.  The railway time-tables are full of
+familiar names of vineyards.  In a journey of thirty miles southwards,
+you meet with, the well-known names of Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune, and
+Meursault, and you think, perhaps, of feasting and gaiety a long time
+ago.  But the country lacks the picturesque.  You may travel far on the
+main line without seeing anything in the shape of pleasant landscape.
+The country around is undulating, but on the whole flat.  There are many
+walks with pleasant memories—one leads to Talant, the ancient palace of
+the Dukes of Burgundy, now the seat of an archaic village with a
+marvellous church, where they show you an ancient picture said to have
+been painted by St. Luke.  From the common at the foot of the hill you
+get a good view of Dijon, with the cathedral towers in the foreground,
+and the cupola of St. Michel standing up above.  In an old château
+near-by was the birthplace of the great St. Bernard.  Far off is the
+rolling expanse of land which stretches away to the frontiers of
+Champagne.  ‘It was among these fields and villages,’ says the writer in
+_Temple Bar_ to whom I have already referred, ‘that the three battles of
+Dijon were fought during the Franco-Prussian War, and here and there, at
+turnings in the road and in wide ploughed land, monuments covered with
+withered wreaths recall the event, and make the sad landscape all the
+sadder; yet France pines for war, and the clang of martial strains
+everywhere makes it little better than an armed camp.  It is the same
+everywhere.  The one great problem of European statesmen seems to be to
+find a sufficiency of soldiers and sailors, as if we still lived in the
+dark ages, when might was right, and the sole arbiter of nations was the
+sword.  It is awful to think of; it is a disgrace alike to Christianity
+and civilization that such should be the case.  It is not now that we can
+sing, as we did in the great Exhibition year, more than forty years ago,
+of the triumph of Captain Pen over Captain Sword.  Still, we can pray
+with Campbell:
+
+    ‘The cause of truth and human weal,
+       O God above!
+    Transfer it from the sword’s appeal
+       To Peace and Love.
+    Peace, Love! the cherubim that join
+    Their spread wings o’er devotion’s shrine;
+    Prayers sound in vain, and temples shine,
+       Where they are not.’
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+
+BOOKS OF REFERENCE.
+
+As possibly some of my readers may wish for a further study of some of
+the cities and places to which I have referred, I have added a few books
+of reference which they may consult with advantage.  They are as follows:
+
+Plutarch’s ‘Lives.’
+
+Gibbon’s ‘Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.’
+
+‘How to Visit the Mediterranean,’ by Dr. Lunn.
+
+Pollard’s ‘Land of the Monuments.’
+
+‘The Holy City,’ by Dr. Russell Forbes.
+
+Murray and Baedeker’s Guide-Books.
+
+Merriwether’s ‘Afloat and Ashore on the Mediterranean.’
+
+‘Climates of the South of France,’ by Dr. Theodore Williams.
+
+‘Cities of South Italy and Sicily,’ by A. J. C. Hare.
+
+Cook’s ‘South Italy.’
+
+‘Jerusalem Illustrated,’ by G. Robinson Lees.
+
+Cook’s ‘Egypt.’
+
+‘Walks in Cairo,’ by Major Plunkett.
+
+‘England in Egypt,’ by Sir A. Milner.
+
+‘From Pharaoh to Fellah,’ by C. F. Moberley Bell.
+
+‘Scenes from Life in Cairo,’ by Miss Whateley.
+
+‘Leaves from my Sketch-Book,’ by E. W. Cooke.
+
+‘Court Life in Egypt,’ by A. J. Butler.
+
+‘Last Letters from Egypt,’ by Lady Duff Gordon.
+
+‘Egypt as It Is,’ by J. C. Moran.
+
+‘Egypt and its Future,’ by Dr. Wylie.
+
+Budge’s ‘Dwellers on the Nile.’
+
+‘The Nile,’ by Wallis Budge.
+
+‘Egypt as a Winter Resort,’ by Dr. Sandwith.
+
+‘Wintering in Egypt,’ by Dr. A. J. Bentley.
+
+‘Monuments of Upper Egypt,’ by Marriette Bey.
+
+‘Pharaoh’s Fellahs and Explorers,’ by A. M. Edwards.
+
+‘Nile Gleanings,’ by H. Villiers Stuart.
+
+‘Sketches from a Nile Steamer,’ by H. M. Tirard.
+
+‘A Tour in Egypt,’ by Rev. Canon Bell.
+
+‘Egyptian Sketches,’ by J. Lynch.
+
+‘Egypt,’ by S. L. Lane.
+
+‘Leaves from an Egyptian Sketch-Book,’ by Canon Isaac Taylor.
+
+‘Cairo,’ by S. Lane Poole.
+
+‘Egypt of To-day,’ by W. Fraser Rae.
+
+‘Land of the Sphinx,’ by G. Montbard.
+
+‘The New Egypt,’ by Francis Adams.
+
+‘Through David’s Realm,’ by Rev. E. T. D. Tompkins.
+
+‘Palestine,’ by Major Conder.
+
+The Works of Flavius Josephus.
+
+‘Mount Vesuvius,’ by J. Logan Lobley.
+
+‘The Bible and Modern Discoveries,’ by Henry A. Harper.
+
+‘Our Inheritance in the Great Pyramid,’ by Piozzi Smith.
+
+‘Palestine under the Moslems,’ by Guy Le Strange.
+
+‘The Women of Turkey,’ by Lucy Garnett.
+
+‘Greek Pictures,’ by Dr. Mahaffy.
+
+‘Mythology and Monuments of Ancient Athens.’
+
+‘With the Bedouins,’ by Gray Hill.
+
+‘Modern Discoveries on the Ancient Site of Ephesus,’ by J. T. Wood.
+
+‘Essays on Christian Greece,’ by Demetrius Bikelos, translated by the
+Marquis of Bute.
+
+‘A History of Greek Sculpture,’ by Dr. A. Murray.
+
+‘Eothen,’ by A. W. Kinglake.
+
+‘Cornhill to Cairo,’ by W. M. Thackeray.
+
+‘The History of Sicily,’ by Dr. Edward A. Freeman.
+
+‘Sicily, Phœnician, Greek and Roman,’ by the late Prof. F. A. Freeman
+(‘Story of the Nations’).
+
+‘Among the Holy Places,’ by Dr. James Kean.
+
+Dean Stanley’s ‘Sinai and Palestine.’
+
+‘Buried Cities and Bible Countries,’ by G. St. Clair.
+
+‘In Christ’s Country,’ by Samuel Rome.
+
+‘The Byzantine Empire,’ by C. W. C. Osman.
+
+‘On the Nile with a Camera,’ by Anthony Wilkin.
+
+‘The Island of Capri,’ by Ferdinand Gregorovius.
+
+‘Diary of an Idle Woman in Constantinople.’
+
+‘Recollections of an Egyptian Princess,’ by Miss Chennelles.
+
+‘Jerusalem, the Holy City,’ by Mrs. Oliphant.
+
+‘The Rulers of the Mediterranean,’ by R. H. Davis.
+
+‘The Historical Geography of the Holy Land,’ by Dr. G. A. Smith.
+
+‘The Holy Land and the Bible,’ by Dr. Geikie.
+
+‘The Ancient Egyptian Doctrine of the Immortality of the Soul,’ by Dr.
+Wisedeman.
+
+‘Manual of Egyptian Archæology,’ by Dr. Maspero.
+
+‘The Bible and the Monuments,’ by W. St. Chaud Boscawen.
+
+‘Letters from Constantinople,’ by Mrs. Max Müller.
+
+‘Egypt under the British,’ by H. F. Wood.
+
+‘Travel Pictures from Palestine,’ by James Wells, D.D.
+
+‘A History of Egypt,’ by W. M. Flinders Petrie.
+
+‘The Forgotten Isles, Balearic Isles, Corsica and Sardinia,’ by Gaston
+Villiers.
+
+‘The Sultan and his People,’ by Richard Davey.
+
+‘The Outgoing Turk,’ by H. G. Thomson.
+
+For invalids merely travelling for health, I would recommend ‘The
+Mediterranean Winter Resorts,’ by E. A. Reynolds Ball, which is now in a
+third edition.  Great prominence has been given to the medical aspect of
+the principal invalid resorts, and special articles dealing with the
+climatic, sanitary, and general hygienic conditions of these resorts have
+been contributed by resident English physicians.  This is the only
+English guide-book published containing authoritative articles on the
+principal winter resorts by medical experts.  Another new feature which
+may be specially mentioned is the introduction of detailed descriptions
+of the newer health resorts, such as Biskra, Luxor, Helouan in North
+Africa; St. Raphael, Grasse, Beaulieu, Ospedaletti on the Riviera; Torre
+del Greco, Castellamare, Amalfi on the South Italian Littoral, which have
+come into favour within the last few years.  In describing the different
+places in this guide-book, a certain uniform order has, as far as
+possible, been preserved in treating of the various subjects.  Routes,
+climatic conditions, society, hotel and villa accommodation, amusements,
+sport, principal attractions, places of interest, and excursions, have
+been dealt with consecutively in the above order, greater or less space
+being accorded to the various subjects according to the special
+characteristics of each resort.  The author has attempted to give rather
+fuller information about the newer and less known winter resorts,
+concerning which little has been written in the standard works of Murray
+and Baedeker, than he has done when describing the popular and well-known
+Riviera resorts, which possess a whole library of guide-book and travel
+literature of their own.
+
+Dealing with the delicate question of hotel accommodation for visitors,
+Mr. Reynolds Ball has not shrunk from the invidious task of occasional
+recommendation, based either on personal experience, or on trustworthy
+reports of friends or residents.  Most of the information in this
+handbook has been derived at first-hand.  He has visited nearly all the
+places described, and with regard to others he has availed himself of the
+help of travelled friends or residents possessing knowledge gained on the
+spot.
+
+Magazine articles in connection with the countries and cities here
+referred to are numerous.  Social life at Naples is well described in an
+article in the _National Review_ for February, 1892.  A readable account
+of the sanitary and meteorological conditions of Cairo will be found in
+an article in the _Lancet_, November, 1889, entitled ‘The Winter Climate
+of the Nile.’  An interesting description of Corfu appeared in the
+_Sunday Magazine_ for May, 1893, by Professor Mahaffy; the reader will
+find also a good deal of useful information in Cassell’s ‘Picturesque
+Mediterranean,’ 1891.  For Corsica the reader had better refer to Mr.
+Freshfield’s interesting account of climbing experiences in the island,
+which appeared in the _Alpine Journal_, 1880.
+
+When one thinks of the enormous number of works published in connection
+with Egypt, it is worth noting that when Edward William Lane wrote his
+account of the ‘Manners and Customs of Modern Egypt,’ of which an
+excellent reprint has been published in the Minerva Library, when he
+returned to England with a complete description of Egypt as it then was,
+and a hundred excellent drawings, Egypt was not known or appreciated in
+England, and no publisher would incur the expense of publishing the work
+and reproducing the drawings, though they were universally praised by all
+who saw them.  In this respect the change is simply marvellous.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                 THE END.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                  BILLING AND SONS, PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.
+
+
+
+
+Advertisements
+
+
+       _Just Published_.  _One Vol._, _crown_ 8_vo._, _price_ 6_s._
+
+
+
+CRYING FOR THE LIGHT;
+Or, Fifty Years Ago.
+
+
+                           By J. EWING RITCHIE
+                          (CHRISTOPHER CRAYON).
+
+                         _NOTICES OF THE PRESS_.
+
+‘On the pressing social problems of the day he has much to say that is
+well worth listening to.  There is a force of characterization in Mr.
+Ritchie’s sketches and a passion for human sympathy pervading his whole
+work.’—_The New Age_.
+
+‘A thoroughly interesting romance.’—_Publishers’ Circular_.
+
+‘The story is refreshing and powerful, and the characters well drawn and
+carefully studied.  The heroine is a charming, clever, and popular
+actress, and with commendable courage the author endows her with a still
+higher attribute—that of true, earnest Christianity.  Wentworth, preacher
+and journalist, is another attractive and lifelike character.  The scenes
+through which Mr. Ritchie guides his characters are many and varied, and
+whether we take him in his description of theatrical life, press life, in
+his graphically depicted election scenes of fifty years ago, or in the
+strong and painful realism of his “low life,” he shows the same master
+hand.’—_Belfast Northern Whig_.
+
+‘There is much that is interesting, and may be read with profit.’
+
+                                                  _Weekly Times and Echo_.
+
+‘It is interesting reading, and exhibits this popular writer’s facility
+and graphic power.’—_Inquirer_.
+
+‘It is quite refreshing to read Mr. Ritchie’s new book.’—_Bookseller_.
+
+‘Among the lower walks of journalism he treads upon comparatively new
+ground, and this picture has the witness of truth upon it.  This, after
+all, is what we ask from the novelist—a true picture of real
+life.’—_Literary World_.
+
+‘Free from the suspicion of dulness—always readable and often racy.’
+
+                                                    _Eastern Daily Press_.
+
+‘There is some bright writing in the story.’—_Standard_.
+
+‘The style of the writer is bright and sparkling.’—_Suffolk Chronicle_.
+
+‘One may tolerate the least popular views of an author who writes so
+genially and good-naturedly.’—_Scotsman_.
+
+‘A delightfully light and pleasant work.’—_Sheffield Daily Telegraph_.
+
+‘There is not a single page which does not bear the stamp of Mr.
+Ritchie’s widely read and acutely observant mind.’—_Liverpool Daily
+Post_.
+
+‘The heroine is a charming woman—a clever actress and a real Christian.’
+
+                                                        _Christian World_.
+
+‘We shall rejoice to hear that the work has a large circulation.’
+
+                                                         _Christian Life_.
+
+‘Amongst the cleverest portions of the book is the account of the
+Parliamentary election at Sloville—in which the electioneering tactics of
+fifty years ago are unsparingly exposed.’—_East Anglian Daily Times_.
+
+‘Marked by a good deal of animation, and a vigorous and wholesome tone.’
+
+                                                    _Essex County Herald_.
+
+‘The work is in Mr. Ritchie’s best style.’—_Isle of Man Examiner_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+              JARROLD & SONS, WARWICK LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW.
+
+
+
+TRAINING SHIPS ‘ARETHUSA’ & ‘CHICHESTER.’
+
+
+        _Also Eight Homes on Shore for Educating and Maintaining_
+                     _nearly_ 1,000 _Boys and Girls_.
+
+          President: The Right Hon. the EARL of JERSEY, G.C.M.G.
+
+               SUPPORTED WHOLLY BY VOLUNTARY CONTRIBUTIONS.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+These times of mercantile depression have made sore gaps in the usual
+gifts, and we now earnestly appeal for new subscribers to support this
+long-established Charity.  Over 14,000 Boys and Girls have been rescued
+and trained since the foundation in 1843 by the late William Williams,
+Esq.
+
+CONTRIBUTIONS ARE EARNESTLY SOLICITED and will be very thankfully
+received by the London and Westminster Bank, 214, High Holborn, W.C.; by
+
+H. BRISTOW WALLEN, Secretary.
+
+HENRY G. COPELAND, Finance and Deputation Secretary.
+
+National Refuges for Homeless and Destitute Children, and ‘Arethusa’ and
+‘Chichester’ Training Ships.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+London Office: 104, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                     _FOUNDED 1870_.  _REBUILT 1892_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+THE HOUSE-BOY BRIGADE.
+
+
+     (_For Training Orphan and Destitute Boys for Domestic Service_.)
+
+                       146 & 148, MARYLEBONE ROAD,
+                                   AND
+              22 & 23, ALLSOP ST., UPPER BAKER ST., LONDON.
+
+          President:                       Treasurer:
+        LADY WOLVERTON.                  LORD WOLVERTON.
+                        Hon. Secretary:
+                      E. H. M. DENNY, Esq.
+
+This Institution was founded in 1870 by the late Lady Wolverton, for the
+purpose of receiving Orphan and Destitute Boys, and by employing them in
+the houses of the gentry, in domestic work, training them for indoor
+servants.
+
+A boy must have passed the Fourth Government Standard of Education, be
+twelve to fifteen years of age, and in good health.  The boys work in the
+morning, and attend school in the afternoon.  This is tested by yearly
+examinations, which are presented to the Committee and published in their
+Report.
+
+The entrance fee is £5.  As this is the only payment asked during the
+period of three years or more that the boy remains in the Society—indeed,
+started in life and looked after for a period of years—£5 thus expended
+in helping a boy is an excellent investment.
+
+Further particulars and forms of admission can be obtained from Mr. C. H.
+CHEVENS, _Secretary_, by applying to the Office, 148, Marylebone Road,
+London, N.W.
+
+
+
+Orphanage for Little Girls,
+CLACTON-ON-SEA.
+
+
+      (_Connected with the London Flower Girls’ Christian Mission_.)
+
+                       FOUNDER: MR. JOHN A. GROOM.
+
+Contributions earnestly SOLICITED on behalf of the above Orphanage, now
+sheltering, caring for and training over 120 Orphan Destitute Girls—some
+of whom are infants only a few months old.  They are admitted
+irrespective of creed, nationality or physical infirmity, and remain till
+they are 16 years of age and are trained for domestic service.  There are
+no elections, votes, canvassing or expense connected with admission; the
+most urgent and needy cases are admitted by the Selection Committee.  The
+homes are conducted upon the cottage principle, each home offering
+accommodation for 20 children, and under the care of a Foster Mother.
+The Institution is quite unsectarian, and is entirely dependent upon the
+generous offerings of the benevolent.  Visitors are earnestly invited to
+visit the homes between 2 and 5 o’clock any day except Saturday and
+Sunday.
+
+Reports and Audited Accounts may be had, post free, on application to
+JOHN A. GROOM, Secretary, 8, Sekforde Street, Clerkenwell, London, E.C.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+The Ragged School Union & Shaftesbury Society
+
+
+Is a Christian Organization designed to bring brotherly sympathy and
+uplifting ministries to the street child and its parents.  The methods
+and agencies cover body, mind, and heart.
+
+The HOLIDAY HOMES FUND dealt last summer with 6,673 children.
+
+The CRIPPLE DEPARTMENT visits and ministers various comforts to about
+6,000 cripples.
+
+The POOR CHILDREN’S AID BRANCH supplies Boots and Garments.
+
+The BENEVOLENT FUND aids acute distress; also helps with Soup Kitchen,
+Children’s Breakfasts and Dinners.
+
+The DRIFT CHILDREN’S BRANCH gathers the outside children to Missions and
+Schools who might drift away from all good influences.
+
+The RAGGED CHURCH UNION, the BAREFOOT MISSION, and the SEA SHELL AND
+CHILDREN’S SCRAP-BOOK MISSION, now form part of the R.S.U.
+
+There are 192 affiliated Mission Buildings located in the poorest
+districts of London attended by over 50,000 children, 232 Bible Classes,
+131 Mothers’ Meetings, 171 Bands of Hope, 106 Week-night Schools and
+Industrial Classes, 97 Libraries, 70 Penny Banks, 198 Religious Meetings.
+There are nearly 6,000 Voluntary Workers.
+
+‘Deserving of support.’—BISHOP OF BEDFORD (Dr. Billing), in Westminster
+Abbey.
+
+‘The noblest of many noble charities.’—MARQUESS OF LORNE, Southend.
+
+‘The most conspicuous illustration of the new philanthropy.’—SIR WALTER
+BESANT on the R.S.U.  Jubilee in _The Contemporary Review_.
+
+‘I would rather be President of the Ragged School Union than Prime
+Minister of England.’—SEVENTH EARL OF SHAFTESBURY.
+
+                    CONTRIBUTIONS EARNESTLY SOLICITED.
+
+OFFICES: 37, NORFOLK STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.  JOHN KIRK, SECRETARY.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                            ESTABLISHED 1851.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+BIRKBECK BANK,
+
+
+                          Southampton Buildings,
+                       CHANCERY LAME, LONDON, W.C.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                        INVESTED FUNDS—£8,000,000.
+                     _Number of Accounts_, _75,061_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+TWO-AND-A-HALF per CENT. INTEREST allowed on DEPOSITS, repayable on
+demand.
+
+TWO per CENT. on CURRENT ACCOUNTS, on the minimum monthly balances, when
+not drawn below £100.
+
+     STOCKS, SHARES, and ANNUITIES purchased and sold for customers.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                           Savings Department.
+
+      Small Deposits received, and Interest allowed monthly on each
+                              completed £1.
+
+         The BIRKBECK ALMANACK, with full particulars, post free.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+_Telephone No. 65005_.
+
+_Telegraphic Address_: ‘_BIRKBECK_, _LONDON_.’
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                     FRANCIS RAVENSCROFT, _Manager_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+               _Second Edition_.  _Price_ 7_s._ 6_d._ {225}
+
+
+
+EAST ANGLIA:
+
+
+           Personal Recollections and Historical Associations.
+
+               By J. EWING RITCHIE (‘CHRISTOPHER CRAYON’).
+
+‘“East Anglia” has the merit of not being a compilation, which is more
+than can be said of the great majority of books produced in these days to
+satisfy the revived taste for topographical gossip.  Mr. Ritchie is a
+Suffolk man—the son of a Nonconformist minister of Wrentham in that
+county—and he looks back to the old neighbourhood and the old times with
+an affection which is likely to communicate itself to his readers.
+Altogether we can with confidence recommend this book, not only to East
+Anglians, but to all readers who have any affinity for works of its
+class.’—_Daily News_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                LONDON: JARROLD & SONS, WARWICK LANE, E.C.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+BRIGHTER SOUTH AFRICA.
+
+
+                           By J. EWING RITCHIE.
+
+‘The South African journalist gets a trifle wearied with the commonplace
+descriptions of his country usually affected by the ordinary
+globe-trotter, and so he will welcome a work like this all the more
+warmly.  For trite remarks, we have original and critical analysis of
+affairs as Mr. Ritchie found them.’—_South Africa_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                          LONDON: FISHER UNWIN.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+
+
+AN AUSTRALIAN RAMBLE.
+
+
+                           By J. EWING RITCHIE.
+
+‘The reader who desires a clear bird’s-eye view of the country and a
+pleasant sketch of its many interests will do well to follow Christopher
+Crayon’s summer journey to Australia and back again.’—_Literary World_.
+
+                                * * * * *
+
+                          LONDON: FISHER UNWIN.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes:
+
+
+{225}  In the book this page is unnumbered and at the start of the book.
+It has been moved to the end to make the whole more readable.—DP.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 36084-0.txt or 36084-0.zip *******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/6/0/8/36084
+
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://www.gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
diff --git a/36084-0.zip b/36084-0.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0f89906
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-0.zip
diff --git a/36084-h.zip b/36084-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8a904fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h.zip
diff --git a/36084-h/36084-h.htm b/36084-h/36084-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fbb9ad5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/36084-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,7112 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html
+     PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+     "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
+<title>Cities of the Dawn, by J. Ewing Ritchie</title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
+<!--
+    P {  margin-top: .75em;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
+         }
+    P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;}
+    P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; }
+    H1, H2 {
+         text-align: center;
+		margin-top: 2em;
+		margin-bottom: 2em;
+         }
+    H3, H4, H5 {
+	text-align: center;
+	margin-top: 1em;
+	margin-bottom: 1em;
+	}
+    BODY{margin-left: 10%;
+         margin-right: 10%;
+        }
+ table { border-collapse: collapse; }
+table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;}
+    td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;}
+    td p { margin: 0.2em; }
+    .blkquot  {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */
+
+    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
+
+    .pagenum {position: absolute;
+               left: 92%;
+               font-size: small;
+               text-align: right;
+		font-weight: normal;
+               color: gray;
+               }
+    img { border: none; }
+    img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; }
+    div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; }
+    div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 30%; }
+    div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%;
+                  margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid;
+                  border-bottom: 1px solid; }
+    div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%;
+                  margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid;
+                  border-bottom: 1px solid;}
+    div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%;
+		  border-top: 1px solid; }
+    .citation {vertical-align: super;
+               font-size: .8em;
+               text-decoration: none;}
+    img.floatleft { float: left;
+			margin-right: 1em;
+			margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; }
+    img.floatright { float: right;
+			margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em;
+			margin-bottom: 0.5em; }
+    img.clearcenter {display: block;
+			margin-left: auto;
+			margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em;
+			margin-bottom: 0.5em}
+    -->
+    /* XML end  ]]>*/
+    </style>
+</head>
+<body>
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cities of the Dawn, by J. Ewing Ritchie
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Cities of the Dawn
+
+
+Author: J. Ewing Ritchie
+
+
+
+Release Date: May 11, 2011  [eBook #36084]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN***
+</pre>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1897 T. Fisher Unwin edition by David
+Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/cover.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Cover"
+title=
+"Cover"
+src="images/cover.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p0.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Dawn on the Great Sphinx"
+title=
+"Dawn on the Great Sphinx"
+src="images/p0.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h1><span class="smcap">the</span><br />
+CITIES OF THE DAWN:</h1>
+<p style="text-align:
+center"><i>NAPLES&mdash;ATHENS&mdash;POMPEII&mdash;CONSTANTINOPLE&mdash;</i><br
+/>
+
+<i>SMYRNA&mdash;JAFFA&mdash;JERUSALEM&mdash;ALEXANDRIA&mdash;</i><br
+/>
+<i>CAIRO&mdash;MARSEILLES&mdash;AVIGNON&mdash;</i><br />
+<i>LYONS&mdash;DIJON</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br />
+J. EWING RITCHIE<br />
+(&lsquo;<span class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>&rsquo;),<br
+/>
+<span class="smcap">author of &lsquo;crying for the light,&rsquo;
+&lsquo;east anglia,&rsquo; etc., etc.</span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Ye glittering towns with wealth and
+splendour crown&rsquo;d;<br />
+Ye fields where summer spreads profusion round;<br />
+Ye lakes whose vessels catch the busy gale;<br />
+Ye bending swains that dress the flowery vale;<br />
+For me your tributary stores combine;<br />
+Creation&rsquo;s heir, the world&mdash;the world is
+mine.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap"><i>with
+thirty-one illustrations</i></span></p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="smcap">london</span>:<br />
+<span class="smcap">T. FISHER UNWIN</span>,<br />
+<span class="smcap">paternoster square</span>.<br />
+<span class="smcap">NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM&rsquo;S
+SONS</span>.<br />
+1897.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="pageix"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. ix</span>To<br />
+<span class="smcap">F. W. WARMINGTON, Esq.</span>,<br />
+<span class="smcap">to whose practical philanthropy</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">many of the young people of both
+sexes</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">are indebted for happy
+holiday-times</span>,<br />
+<span class="smcap">this book</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">is respectfully dedicated</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">by</span><br />
+THE AUTHOR</p>
+<h2><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xi</span>PREFACE.</h2>
+<p>In this new publication, consisting chiefly of articles which
+appeared in the <i>Christian World</i>, the <i>Echo</i>, and the
+<i>East Anglian Daily Times</i>, the author makes no pretence to
+original information, or to have acted the part of an antiquarian
+explorer.&nbsp; He has simply gone over ground familiar to many,
+and to which all holiday-makers will turn in increasing numbers,
+partly for pleasure, and partly on account of the absorbing
+interest attaching to the route here briefly described.&nbsp; To
+such he offers his services as guide, philosopher and friend,
+trusting also that many who stay at home may be interested in the
+story here told.</p>
+<p>With regard to the illustrations, the author acknowledges the
+kindness of Dr. Lunn and Messrs. Cassell in allowing him the use
+of them, and especially is grateful to Miss Pollard, the daughter
+of the author of that valuable work, &lsquo;The Land of the
+Monuments,&rsquo; for permission to use her sketch &lsquo;Dawn on
+the Great Sphinx,&rsquo; which he has utilized for his
+frontispiece.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Clacton-on-Sea</span>.</p>
+<h2><a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xiii</span>CONTENTS</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">chapter</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">page</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">i.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">a run across france</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">ii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">off to naples</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">iii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">naples of to-day</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">iv.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">pompeii and vesuvius</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">v.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the isles of the
+mediterranean</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">vi.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">about athens</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">vii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">constantinople</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">viii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">smyrna</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page71">71</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">ix.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">jaffa to jerusalem</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">x.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the holy city</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xi.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">bethlehem</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page103">103</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the jew in jerusalem</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xiii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">alexandria</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xiv.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">in cairo</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page135">135</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xv.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the pyramids and the sphinx</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xvi.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the river nile</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page164">164</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xvii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the return to marseilles</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page172">172</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xviii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">avignon</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page186">186</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xix.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the great city of lyons</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page194">194</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xx.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">dijon, or the wine country</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page206">206</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">xxi.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">books of reference</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page214">214</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xv</span>LIST
+OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="smcap">page</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">dawn on the great sphinx</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Frontispiece</i></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">two-berth cabin, &lsquo;midnight
+sun&rsquo;</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page4">4</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the bay of naples</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">temple of venus, pompeii</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the corinth canal</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">temple of victory</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the parthenon</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">a busy street in
+constantinople</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">a mosque on the bosphorus</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the quay, constantinople</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">galata bridge,
+constantinople</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">an old street,
+constantinople</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the gate of persecution, near
+ephesus</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">jerusalem: via dolorosa and pontius
+pilate&rsquo;s house</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">view from st. stephen&rsquo;s gate,
+with russian church and garden of gethsemane</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">general view of jerusalem from the
+convent of the sisters of zion</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the church of the holy
+sepulchre</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">bethlehem</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">pompey&rsquo;s pillar,
+alexandria</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">general view of cairo</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page136">136</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">a street in cairo</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">tomb of the caliphs of
+cairo</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page139">139</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><a name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+xvi</span><span class="smcap">donkey-boy, cairo</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">colossal statue of rameses
+ii.</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">pyramid and sphinx</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the great sphinx</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">a tourist steamer&mdash;cook&rsquo;s
+nile flotilla</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the new harbour, marseilles</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">marseilles</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page175">175</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the castle of the popes,
+avignon</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page189">189</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p><span class="smcap">the place bellecour, lyons</span></p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page197">197</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>CHAPTER
+I.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">A RUN ACROSS FRANCE.</p>
+<p>To leave London one day and to arrive in Marseilles the next
+would have been deemed impossible&mdash;the dream of a
+madman&mdash;in the age in which I was born, when steamships and
+railways were unknown.&nbsp; Yet it is a fact, to the truth of
+which I can testify.&nbsp; Half a century has elapsed since the
+fair fields, leafy woodlands, and breezy chalk downs of Kent were
+invaded by a band of navvies, who, under the skilful direction of
+the late Sir William Cubitt, built up the main line of the
+South-Eastern Railway.&nbsp; The next thing was to connect France
+and Europe, which was done by means of steamers running between
+Calais and Dover, and thence by rail to all the chief Continental
+cities and health resorts.</p>
+<p>I leave London by the Continental express at eight in the
+morning one cold day in October; in eight hours I am in Paris,
+passing Calais and Abbeville, both of which places, especially
+the former, are, I believe, pretty well known in these days of
+universal restlessness and travel.&nbsp; It is little we see <a
+name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>of Paris, the
+gay and beautiful.&nbsp; We have to dine&mdash;for man must dine,
+if possible, once a day&mdash;and to Paris we turn for its cooks
+and cookery.&nbsp; It is there that the art of dining is carried
+to perfection.&nbsp; &lsquo;Unquiet meals make ill
+digestions.&rsquo;&nbsp; There is no fear of that as I sit down
+to my well-prepared repast at the handsome buffet attached to the
+French Northern Railway, and yet there my troubles begin.&nbsp;
+As a barbarous Englander, I ask why in Paris, the centre, as it
+deems itself, of civilization and refinement, I am compelled to
+help myself to salt by putting my knife into the
+saltcellar.&nbsp; Then, again, it seems curious to me, and what I
+am not accustomed to, to eat my fish without a fitting knife and
+fork.&nbsp; Surely one may expect to find in Paris the refinement
+one is accustomed to in one&rsquo;s native land!&nbsp; As to
+being cheated with one&rsquo;s eyes open, one does not
+complain&mdash;you expect it, and it is not worth while losing
+your temper merely for the sake of a few paltry centimes; and yet
+I felt that I had been done unfairly when, on asking a waiter for
+a cup of coffee <i>noir</i>, and giving him an English shilling,
+and particularly calling his attention to the value of the coin,
+he coolly treats it as a franc, and gives me change
+accordingly.&nbsp; That was rather a dear cup of coffee, I
+calculate; but, then, the fault was mine, and mine alone.&nbsp; I
+ought to have provided myself with French money before I
+started.</p>
+<p>I am going on what Dr. Lunn calls an educational tour on the
+Continent.&nbsp; It seems to me I shall get a good deal of
+education of some kind or other before I return to my native land
+again.&nbsp; There are about 112 on board from London and the
+provinces.&nbsp; As we are bound for Jerusalem, we have, as was
+to be expected, <a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+3</span>a large proportion of the clerical element.&nbsp; Ladies
+are not so numerous as one would expect from what one knows of
+the curiosity and fondness for adventure of lovely woman.&nbsp;
+The worst part of the trip is the long, wearying ride from Paris
+to Marseilles, where we found peace and plenty on board the
+<i>Midnight Sun</i>.&nbsp; We saw but little of the country on
+leaving Paris; but when we reached Lyons, where we were refreshed
+with delicious coffee and bread-and-butter, and were provided
+with a handsome lunch, to be eaten in the course of our journey,
+consisting of a bottle of claret, beef and fowl,
+bread-and-butter, and cheese and fruit&mdash;a handsome meal, to
+which we all did justice&mdash;the day broke on us clear and
+fine.</p>
+<p>But I pause to make another little grumble.&nbsp; In barbarous
+England the lunch would have been neatly packed away in a basket
+specially provided for the purpose, and a knife and fork would
+have been included.&nbsp; On the Lyons railway a brown paper bag
+was deemed all that was necessary, and instead of a knife and
+fork we had to use our fingers.&nbsp; As there was no convenience
+for washing&mdash;at any rate, as regards second-class
+passengers, <i>quorum pars fui</i>; I recommend the traveller to
+go first-class on such a long ride&mdash;you can imagine our
+disgusting state.&nbsp; It seems to me that the rule that they do
+things better in France is one to which there are several
+exceptions.&nbsp; But in some respects France beats us.&nbsp; It
+will be hard to find anywhere in England a prettier ride than
+that we enjoyed from Lyons to Marseilles.&nbsp; The white houses,
+with their green blinds and red tiles, nestling in and among the
+trees, always make a French landscape bright and gay.&nbsp; Their
+great industrial and manufacturing centres also always <a
+name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>
+<a href="images/p4.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Two-berth cabin, &lsquo;Midnight Sun&rsquo;"
+title=
+"Two-berth cabin, &lsquo;Midnight Sun&rsquo;"
+src="images/p4.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>look
+cleaner and less forbidding in their dreariness than ours at
+home; and if the little narrow plots you see suggest peasant
+farming, rather than the high and costly farming patronized at
+home, you feel that the peasant of gay and sunny France&mdash;for
+such France undoubtedly is&mdash;has a happier lot than with
+us.&nbsp; But as you travel you have no time to think of such
+things.&nbsp; It is all one can do to watch the fairy panorama of
+rock and river, of waving woods and smiling plains, as you glide
+by.&nbsp; At all times the Loire is a grand river, but to-day it
+is flooded, and seems to be made up of lakes and seas, in which
+struggle haystacks, farmhouses, barns, the everlasting poplars,
+and, what is worse, the poor man&rsquo;s garden, and I think, in
+one or two cases that met my pitying eye, his vinefields as
+well.</p>
+<p>One word before I have done with the <i>Midnight
+Sun</i>.&nbsp; &lsquo;In the new yachting,&rsquo; writes Sir
+Morell Mackenzie, &lsquo;there is no unpleasantness as to the
+change of places to be visited, nor are carefully-arranged plans
+to be disarranged at the last moment by the thoughtlessness or
+unpunctuality of friends.&nbsp; You have the pleasure of
+companionship, without any of the responsibilities of a host or
+the obligations of a guest.&nbsp; You can enjoy the sea and the
+air charged with ozone, which is the champagne of the lungs, and
+free from any taint of animal or vegetable corruption, just as
+freely as if you were an Alexander Selkirk on a floating island;
+and you have many comforts which cannot be had even on the
+largest and best-appointed yachts.&rsquo;&nbsp; Such were the
+results of the great physician&rsquo;s experience on board one of
+the fine excursion steamers of the Orient line.&nbsp; &lsquo;I
+felt,&rsquo; he writes, &lsquo;like Faust after his great
+transformation scene from age to youth.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>I am not
+on an Orient steamer, but I am on the <i>Midnight Sun</i>, and to
+that Sir Morell Mackenzie&rsquo;s testimony is equally
+applicable.&nbsp; The <i>Midnight Sun</i> is a grand steamer of
+3,178 tons, and she was especially fitted out for yachting
+purposes.&nbsp; She may be said to be the best of the
+class.&nbsp; For instance, take the sleeping cabins.&nbsp; They
+contain no upper sleeping berths&mdash;a boon most acceptable to
+passengers who have had to pass many nights, as I have done, in
+cabins overcrowded with passengers and luggage.&nbsp; An idea of
+the magnificent proportions of the <i>Midnight Sun</i> may be
+gathered from the fact that seven times round her deck is equal
+to one mile.&nbsp; The upper deck forms a promenade over the
+entire length of the ship, with uninterrupted views on either
+side.&nbsp; She has been engaged by Dr. Lunn for his co-operative
+educational cruises, which become more popular every year.&nbsp;
+I note especially the smoking-room on the upper deck, capable of
+accommodating nearly 100 persons.&nbsp; There is a crew of 110 on
+board for the purpose of ensuring our safety and supplying our
+comforts and wants.&nbsp; Truly, if one cannot enjoy himself on
+such a trip, and with such a company of gentlemen and ladies as
+Dr. Lunn succeeds in drawing around him, he must be hard to
+please.&nbsp; Dr. Lunn, who is not on board, is in himself a
+host, and so is his popular brother, who supplies his
+place.&nbsp; We are now approaching Corsica.&nbsp; I will spare
+you my feelings as I gaze on the land that gave birth to a
+Napoleon Bonaparte, and that sheltered Seneca in his dreary
+exile, but which in modern times Lady Burdett Coutts finds to be
+a very beneficial health resort.&nbsp; They are all that should
+inspire the virtuous emotions of a true-born Englishman.</p>
+<h2><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>CHAPTER
+II.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">OFF TO NAPLES.</p>
+<p>I left off my last letter opposite Corsica.&nbsp; Since
+then&mdash;and this is the charm of coming to Naples in the
+<i>Midnight Sun</i>&mdash;we have passed quite a cluster of isles
+more or less renowned in history&mdash;such as Caprera, the rocky
+home of the great Italian, Garibaldi&mdash;of which, alas! we see
+nothing.&nbsp; In old times Caprera derived its name from the
+wild goats, its original inhabitants.&nbsp; Later on it was
+colonized by monks.&nbsp; &lsquo;The whole island,&rsquo; says a
+contemporary writer quoted by Gibbon, &lsquo;is filled, or,
+rather, defiled by men, who fly from the light.&nbsp; They call
+themselves monks, or solitaries, because they choose to live
+alone, without any witnesses of their actions.&nbsp; They fear
+the gifts of fortune from the apprehension of losing them, and,
+lest they should be miserable, they embrace a life of voluntary
+wretchedness.&rsquo;&nbsp; Elba, however, is visible, which the
+wiseacres whom Providence, for mysterious reasons of its own, at
+one time permitted to rule over European affairs, fixed on as the
+residence of the Corsican adventurer, in the childish belief that
+he who had aimed almost at universal empire, and had in vain
+attempted to grapple with and overthrow the pride and power of <a
+name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>England, would
+be content to remain on that puny isle, within a hop, step and
+jump of France, as it were, and almost within speaking distance
+of the legions whom he had led to glory.&nbsp; Then we sailed
+past Monte Cristo, the scene of Dumas&rsquo; celebrated romance
+of that name.&nbsp; Mostly, at a distance, the isles look bare of
+life and vegetation, rocks rising out of the blue waves; and yet
+we know it to be otherwise.&nbsp; At best, however, they must be
+poor places to live in, far from the great battle of life, and
+out of touch with human progress.&nbsp; We pass Sardinia, but see
+little of it.&nbsp; This is Sunday, and to-day the Church clergy,
+who are numerous, seem to have had a good innings.&nbsp;
+Unfortunately, I came into collision with one of them.&nbsp; As I
+entered the smoking-room after breakfast, I saw there had been
+held there an early Communion, and the implements utilized on
+such occasions were lying about.&nbsp; In a light and flippant
+tone I asked whether this was High Church or Low Church or Broad
+Church.&nbsp; A little oily parson, who was apparently guarding
+the vessels, angrily exclaimed, &lsquo;Sir, it is the
+<i>Church</i>!&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;Thank you,&rsquo; I said;
+&lsquo;I only wanted to know.&nbsp; To me it is a matter of
+indifference.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;That was very naughty of
+you,&rsquo; said a mild, gentlemanly young man at my side.&nbsp;
+Let everyone worship God, or what he takes to be God, as best he
+may.&nbsp; I scorn not the savage who bows down to idols of wood
+and stone.&nbsp; To him they represent a Divine presence and
+power.&nbsp; I claim a similar liberty for the High Churchman,
+who sees sacred emblems in vessels of human device to be bought
+in the shops, or wrought by devout females; but let him give me
+the same freedom, and not denounce me as little better than one
+of the wicked, as void of Christian faith, because I turn from <a
+name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>man&rsquo;s
+devices to cry out of the aching heart to the living God, if
+haply I may find Him.</p>
+<p>But I am digressing; for the fact is that I always see more of
+sacerdotalism afloat than I do on land.&nbsp; We are getting on
+pleasantly as regards social companionship.&nbsp; It was very
+cold in the train to Dover, and I felt inclined to take rather a
+gloomy view of the situation.&nbsp; It was worse on board the
+Dover and Calais packet, where the whole of the deck was set
+apart for first-class passengers, while we unfortunate
+second-class men were sent down below to see what we could out of
+the cabin windows.&nbsp; But once in the French second-class
+carriages, really much nicer than our own, reserve was broken,
+the tongue began to wag, and all went merry as a
+marriage-bell.&nbsp; I was much pleased with my neighbour&mdash;a
+Yorkshireman, I think, who had brought with him a bag of new
+farthings to be utilized for backsheesh.&nbsp; He offered me
+some, but I refused.&nbsp; At my time of life I should not like
+to be caught by a wild Arab of the desert to whom I had offered a
+new farthing for the familiar sovereign, the use of which is
+known from China to Peru.&nbsp; The pompous elderly first-class
+passenger amuses me.&nbsp; He has got his English paper, and he
+carries it with him everywhere, in spite of the fact that its
+news is some days old.&nbsp; One of my fellow-passengers had
+bought himself at Marseilles a small footstool to keep his feet
+dry&mdash;a needless precaution, as all the seats are built with
+a view to protect the passengers from the damp of the decks,
+always rather moist after the early morning scrub and
+scour.&nbsp; The daily bath is in much request.&nbsp; The young
+Englishman must have his morning bath&mdash;a favourable sign, if
+it be true that <a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+10</span>cleanliness is next to godliness.&nbsp; We are rather a
+miscellaneous lot&mdash;there are Scotchmen, whose sweet Doric I
+fail to understand, and Cockneys, who ignore the letter <i>h</i>;
+but some of the ladies are charming, and that is saying a good
+deal.</p>
+<p>Long before we reach Naples the awnings are put up and we
+rejoice in all the warmth of an English summer; and never did the
+far-famed bay look more beautiful, and the towns and castles and
+convents that line the cliffs in every direction for miles look
+more bright.&nbsp; The usual babel of sounds reigned in the bay
+as singers and divers and dealers in fruit and other articles of
+Neapolitan production were clamorous to sell them.&nbsp; The
+worst feature of the Neapolitan petty dealer is that he is too
+anxious to kill the goose that lays the golden eggs.&nbsp; I know
+of many English who stay in Rome merely because the people deal
+fairer with the stranger within its gates.&nbsp; It is quite
+otherwise in Naples.&nbsp; The native pays fourpence for his two
+pounds of bread; the Englishman always has to pay
+fivepence.&nbsp; It is in vain you go to another baker.&nbsp; For
+a week he will charge you fourpence, and then he raises his
+price.&nbsp; One peculiarity of the Naples tradesman is that men
+of the same trade always stick together; and he does not spread
+out his business like the English shopkeeper of to-day.&nbsp; For
+instance, if he is a baker he does not deal in pastry, and the
+pastrycook does not interfere with him.&nbsp; But away from the
+trading classes the poverty of the people is really awful.&nbsp;
+You see men very lightly dressed sleeping on the broad pavement
+at all hours; and yet they adore their King, and are now building
+him a grand new monument just in front of the Royal Palace.&nbsp;
+Naples still needs better drainage; and the <a
+name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>substitution
+of current money in gold or silver for its copper coinage would
+be a great improvement.&nbsp; Personally, this time I had no
+reason to find fault with the people.&nbsp; I found an honest
+boatman who rowed me to the ship for half a franc.</p>
+<p>The one redeeming point in Naples is the untiring efforts of
+the Protestant ministers of all denominations&mdash;Church,
+Baptist, Presbyterian, and Wesleyan, the latter especially active
+and doing a good work in the way of schools.&nbsp; I called in at
+the Sailors&rsquo; Rest, an awful climb to get to, but a real
+rest when you get there.&nbsp; The present missionary is Mr.
+Burrowes, and his wife, the latter a genuine Scotchwoman of the
+better sort.&nbsp; They deal in the institution and on board
+ships with other peoples, with other religions and political
+opinions, and the result is very satisfactory.&nbsp; The number
+of destitute persons who have been relieved is as large as
+ever.&nbsp; Seamen are relieved and weaned from drink.&nbsp;
+Almost every evening there is something going on bright and
+cheerful at the Rest.&nbsp; The Sunday evening services have been
+found especially useful.&nbsp; After the evening service of a
+Sunday a large number of men stop to sing their favourite hymns,
+and the number of interesting temperance and religious works
+circulated is very large.&nbsp; The English colporteur, Mr.
+Copley, has given away 1,000 copies of the New Testament during
+the year, and he is aided by a band of foreign colporteurs quite
+as active as himself.&nbsp; It is work that ought to be more
+liberally supported by Christians at home.&nbsp; The good it does
+is great; its needs are pressing.&nbsp; I hope I may not appeal
+for the Sailors&rsquo; Home of Rest at Naples in vain.&nbsp;
+During the year 1895, 176 persons stayed in the Home, including
+those sent there by the British <a name="page12"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 12</span>and foreign consuls, passing
+travellers from ships.&nbsp; Many stayed only one night, such as
+seamen from warships.&nbsp; About 140 persons got free teas, not
+including the relief given to destitute people.&nbsp; It is a
+pity that such a real good work should languish for want of
+popular support amongst the wealthy English residents at Naples
+and at home.</p>
+<h2><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+13</span>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">NAPLES OF TO-DAY.</p>
+<p>Once more I am in Naples, with its houses rising one over
+another, in front of me, and Vesuvius looking down on me, and
+across the loveliest bay the world has yet seen.&nbsp; There is
+little to see in Naples beyond its museum, which no one should
+omit to visit, and Pompeii, to which you are conveyed by train,
+where you come face to face with ancient civilization and ancient
+life.&nbsp; For the traveller the city is rich in hotels, and at
+one of them&mdash;the H&ocirc;tel Vesuve, a magnificent structure
+with stately halls&mdash;I once spent a happy week.&nbsp; I had
+come with money enough to defray my two days&rsquo; expenses;
+but, to my horror, I had to stay longer than I intended, and you
+may judge of my delight when the manager, who knew me, at the end
+of the week refused a penny for my board and daily food.&nbsp; I
+wish I could speak as well of the shopkeepers, who fleece you as
+much as possible, and are prone to give you bad money for
+good.</p>
+<p>The people are industrious, and mostly very poor; but they
+don&rsquo;t drink, and content themselves with water and a slice
+of lemon&mdash;always on sale in the streets.&nbsp; They are
+devout Roman Catholics, but, <a name="page14"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 14</span>nevertheless, an official said to me,
+&lsquo;Morality is unknown here.&rsquo;&nbsp; I met with a man
+from Newcastle, an engineer, who employs a thousand people here,
+and gave them an excellent character.&nbsp; &lsquo;Do you employ
+any English?&rsquo; I asked.&nbsp; &lsquo;Not one,&rsquo; was his
+reply; &lsquo;they drink too much and are too
+troublesome.&rsquo;&nbsp; Taxes are awful and Custom dues
+ditto.&nbsp; I landed here once with twenty-five cigars, a
+present from one of the gentlemanly captains of the Orient
+line.&nbsp; I could have put them in my pocket, and no one would
+have been any wiser.&nbsp; I thought, however, &lsquo;Italy is a
+poor country, and I might as well contribute my mite towards its
+exhausted exchequer.&rsquo;&nbsp; My confidence was misplaced;
+for those cigars I had to pay a duty&mdash;incredible as it may
+seem&mdash;of three shillings and ninepence!&nbsp; Only
+fancy!</p>
+<p>What I like best in Naples are its tram-cars, which are cheap,
+and the attendants are civil.&nbsp; Riding and driving seem to be
+the principal amusements of the people, especially on a Sunday,
+when the poor horses have to rattle along with tremendous loads,
+which makes one regret that in this part of the world there seems
+to be no society for the prevention of cruelty to animals.&nbsp;
+Pope Pius IX. did not think one required.&nbsp; Artistic
+manufactures seem to constitute the staple trade.&nbsp; In every
+hotel there are fine marble busts for sale.&nbsp; Vesuvius
+supplies abundant lava, which is utilized in a thousand
+forms.&nbsp; On many a housetop you may see the macaroni spread
+out to dry, and in many a street you may watch through the
+windows the tortoiseshell manufacturers at work.&nbsp; To the
+city there appears to be no end, as it stretches away to the
+right and left, and climbs up the hills on which it is <a
+name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>built.&nbsp;
+It boasts two Gothic cathedrals, and numerous churches, and many
+public buildings of a handsome order.&nbsp; Little of female
+loveliness, however, is to be seen in the streets&mdash;not half
+so much as in Oxford Street at home any day in the week.&nbsp;
+Miss Cobbe writes: &lsquo;Naples struck me on my first
+visit&mdash;as it has done again and again&mdash;as presenting
+the proof that the Beautiful is not by itself the root out of
+which the Good spontaneously grows.&rsquo;&nbsp; I quite agree
+with Miss Cobbe.</p>
+<p>In the wide and sunny expanse of blue waters that surrounds
+Naples there is much to be seen.&nbsp; Rocky Capri lies just
+opposite&mdash;the home of artists and English residents.&nbsp;
+In the bay on our left are Bai&aelig; and Puteoli, the latter the
+port at which St. Paul landed on his way as a prisoner to Rome to
+appeal to C&aelig;sar.&nbsp; Bai&aelig; was the Brighton of
+ancient Rome; the remains of its temples and baths are scattered
+freely among the fig-trees and olives of the peasant.&nbsp;
+Emperors dwelt there.&nbsp; There C&aelig;sar sought retirement,
+and the warm springs on the side are yet called by his
+name.&nbsp; Behind, Virgil placed the entrance of Avernus, and
+not far off is his reputed tomb.&nbsp; Between Bai&aelig; and
+Puteoli was the Lucrine Lake, over which coloured sails wafted
+the small yachts of fashionable visitors, and which contained the
+oyster-beds for the luxurious tables of Rome.&nbsp; Vitellius the
+beastly, as Gibbon calls him, seems to have been the greatest
+oyster-eater in the ancient world.&nbsp; He is said to have eaten
+oysters all day long and to have swallowed a thousand at a
+sitting.&nbsp; There are no oysters in the Lucrine Lake now, for
+the simple reason that an earthquake long ago destroyed the
+lake.&nbsp; All <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+16</span>that now remains of that famous fishery is a small and
+shallow stream, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip
+of sand.&nbsp; Further north is Misenum, where &AElig;neas came
+to land; where the navy of old Rome rode secure; from whence
+Pliny sailed away to get a nearer view of the celebrated eruption
+of Vesuvius, and where he met with his death by the ashes
+discharged from the burning mountain.&nbsp; On the other side of
+the bay lie Sorrento and other charming spots.&nbsp; It was here
+the Greeks sent colonists.&nbsp; The Greeks were the colonizing
+people of antiquity, as much as the English are colonizing people
+of to-day.&nbsp; It is pleasant of a night to stand on the deck
+of the steamer to see the gas-lamps on the shore glittering like
+glow-worms or fireflies all along the romantic coast.</p>
+<p>If possible, the tourist should find time to have a look at
+P&aelig;stum.&nbsp; In his diary Rogers the poet thus describes
+his visit: &lsquo;Country green and level.&nbsp; The temples in a
+plain shut in on three sides by the mountains, on the fourth open
+to the sea; and the sea itself half shut in them by the
+promontory of Sorrentum, within which are the Isles of the
+Sirens.&nbsp; A magnificent theatre, worthy of such objects: the
+columns almost bare&mdash;broken and of an iron-brown, like iron
+rust; the floor green with moss and herbage; the columns and
+cornices of the richest tints, and climbed by the green lizards
+that fly into a thousand chinks and crevices at your approach;
+fluted fragments of columns and moulded cornices among briars
+strew the middle space between the temple and the
+basilica.&rsquo;&nbsp; Let me add, the temples are all in the
+same Doric style.&nbsp; Poseidonia, as its inhabitants, the Greek
+<a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>colonists,
+called it, was founded in the seventh century <span
+class="smcap">b.c.</span>, and, as the name imports, was
+specially sacred to Poseidon, or Neptune.&nbsp; The principal
+temple, which was probably that of Neptune, was that of the sea
+god.</p>
+<p>Let me remind my readers that in the English burial-place at
+Naples was laid one of the very greatest and best of
+Englishwomen&mdash;the late Mrs. Somerville&mdash;where a marble
+monument has been placed over her grave by her daughter.&nbsp; It
+represents her, heroic size, reclining on a classic chair, in
+somewhat the attitude of the statue of Agrippa in the
+Vatican.&nbsp; It is a shame that she was not buried in
+Westminster Abbey.&nbsp; When asked, Dean Stanley assented, as
+was to be expected, freely to the proposal.&nbsp; Mrs.
+Somerville&rsquo;s nephew, Sir William Fraser, promised at once
+to defray all expenses.&nbsp; There was only one thing further
+needed, and that was the usual formal request from some public
+body or official persons to the Dean and Chapter of
+Westminster.&nbsp; Dean Stanley immediately wrote to the
+Astronomer Royal and the President of the Royal Society, as
+representative of the science with which Mrs. Somerville was
+immediately connected, to ask him to authorize the Dean
+proceeding in the matter.&nbsp; But that gentleman refused to do
+so on the ground that he had never read Mrs. Somerville&rsquo;s
+books.&nbsp; &lsquo;Whether he had read,&rsquo; writes Miss
+Cobbe, commenting indignantly on the above, &lsquo;one in which
+she took the opposite side from his in the bitter Adam Le Verrier
+controversy, it is not for me to say.&rsquo;&nbsp; Any way,
+jealousy, either scientific or masculine, declined to admit Mrs.
+Somerville&rsquo;s claim to a place in our national Walhalla,
+where so many men neither <a name="page18"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 18</span>intellectually nor morally her equal
+have been received.</p>
+<p>In one respect Naples has improved since I was here
+last.&nbsp; The drainage has been rendered better, and the
+fearful odours that met you at every turn have disappeared.&nbsp;
+The poor are indolent, dirty, thriftless, and ill-housed; but
+that does not much matter, as most of their lives are passed in
+the open air.&nbsp; The convents are suppressed, the schoolmaster
+is abroad, and they may grow better as the years roll by, and
+Italy, as a nation, once more becomes great and renowned.&nbsp;
+But a good deal has yet to be done.&nbsp; I heard of things to be
+seen in Naples of the most disgraceful and disgusting
+character.&nbsp; At the dawn of the Reformation Naples took the
+lead among the Italian cities in the adoption of its
+principles.&nbsp; Then came a bitter persecution, and the
+triumphs of the Pope and the Inquisition.&nbsp; As the result,
+Naples has been given up for years to the most abject
+superstition, and its people have become the most ignorant and
+demoralized in Europe.&nbsp; But the city is full of
+life&mdash;far more so than is to be found in any other Italian
+city.&nbsp; Such talking, shouting, and rushing to and fro can
+hardly be found anywhere else.&nbsp; Nowhere is there more life
+than is to be seen on the Toledo.&nbsp; One of the quaintest
+objects is that of the letter-writer, seated at his desk in the
+open air, with his clients waiting to have their letters
+written&mdash;some of business, some of love.&nbsp; The
+cab-driver is better than he looks, and it is not difficult to
+get along with him.&nbsp; But you must be on your guard with
+waiters.&nbsp; More than once one has come to me with a bad
+franc, which he pretended I had given him; but I turned a deaf
+ear to his complaint, and <a name="page19"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 19</span>
+<a href="images/p19b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"The Bay of Naples.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co.,
+Reigate.)"
+title=
+"The Bay of Naples.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co.,
+Reigate.)"
+src="images/p19s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>left
+him to do the best he could with his spurious coin.</p>
+<p>If you want to visit Vesuvius, apply at Cook&rsquo;s offices,
+where you will find everything arranged for you in the most
+agreeable manner, and no difficulty of any kind.&nbsp; His
+funicular railway is one of the wonders of the place.&nbsp; The
+ascent of the cone requires two hours&rsquo; hard walking in deep
+ashes and on hard rubble lava&mdash;an undertaking not very
+pleasant for people affected with delicate hearts and
+constitutions, or bordering on old age.&nbsp; Get into one of
+Cook&rsquo;s railway cars, and you are up in a few minutes.&nbsp;
+At the lower station there is an excellent restaurant belonging
+to the wonderful John Cook, whose headquarters are the Piazzi del
+Martini.&nbsp; I dined once at his restaurant at the foot of the
+cone, and it is one of the few dinners in my life to which I look
+back with pleasure.&nbsp; I had a friend with me, of
+course.&nbsp; It is never pleasant to travel&mdash;at any rate,
+in a foreign country&mdash;alone.&nbsp; We had a good rumpsteak
+and French beans, an omelette, and a bottle of the wine whose
+praises were sung by Horace when the world was much younger and
+fresher than it is now.&nbsp; After dinner we sat on the terrace,
+drinking black coffee and smoking cigars.&nbsp; Of course, as an
+Englishman, it gave me pleasure to reflect that our beautiful
+Princess of Wales had been there before me in 1893, with Victoria
+of Wales, the Duke of York, and a distinguished suite.&nbsp; As I
+sat smoking, it seemed to me as if I was monarch of all I
+surveyed.&nbsp; Naples was at my feet, far away behind was the
+green Campagna, with but here and there a solitary dwelling, and
+before me, in all its glory, the bay and its islands.&nbsp; If
+old Sam Rogers had gone up there to write his <a
+name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+21</span>&lsquo;Italy,&rsquo; I think he would have done better
+than he did&mdash;at any rate, I was never so near heaven before;
+and this reminds me that I have said nothing of the means of
+grace available to English Protestants when they come to
+Naples.&nbsp; There is an English Church in the San Pasquale
+&agrave; Chiagia, a Scotch Presbyterian opposite Cook&rsquo;s
+offices, and a Methodist.</p>
+<p>There are many ways of getting to Naples.&nbsp; I came this
+time overland by Paris and Marseilles, and thence, as I have
+said, by the <i>Midnight Sun</i>.&nbsp; If the weather is fine,
+and the Bay of Biscay in good form, I prefer to come by the
+Orient steamers right away from London.&nbsp; You have then no
+trouble till you land in Naples.&nbsp; We leave Black Care behind
+as we slip out of English fog and cold into the region of
+cloudless skies and starry nights.&nbsp; We smoke, or read, or
+feed, or walk the deck, or talk in the pleasantest manner.&nbsp;
+Perhaps we get a glimpse of Finisterre.&nbsp; Heroic memories
+come to us as we pass the seas where the <i>Captain</i> was
+lost&mdash;it is to be feared in consequence of defective
+seamanship.&nbsp; All along the coast and on those faraway hills
+the noise of battle rolled, and not in vain, for the struggle
+that ended in Waterloo placed England in the first rank among the
+nations of the earth.</p>
+<p>As soon as we cross the bay we think of Corunna and Sir John
+Moore.&nbsp; Afar off are the memorable heights of Torres
+Vedras.&nbsp; Cape St. Vincent, a bluff sixty feet high, with a
+convent and a lighthouse, reminds one of the brilliant victory
+won by Sir John Jervis, with Nelson and Collingwood fighting
+under him; and in a little while we are at Trafalgar, to which
+sailors still look as the greatest sea-fight in the history of
+our land, and as the one that saved the nation; and <a
+name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>then you
+spend a day at Gibraltar.&nbsp; A Yankee friend once said to me,
+&lsquo;I must go back to America.&nbsp; I can&rsquo;t stay any
+longer in Europe; I shall get too conceited if I do.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+I, too, feel conceited as I skirt along that romantic coast,
+which you sight in a few hours after leaving Plymouth.&nbsp;
+Englishmen are always grumbling.&nbsp; There is no country like
+England; and an Englishman who is not proud of his native land,
+and ready to make every sacrifice for her, ought to be shot, and
+would be if I had my way.</p>
+<h2><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+23</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">POMPEII AND VESUVIUS.</p>
+<p>It is needless to write that no one can go to Naples without
+paying a visit to Pompeii, if he would get a true idea of a Roman
+city, with its streets, and shops, and baths, and forum, and
+temples; and it is as well to read over Bulwer&rsquo;s
+&lsquo;Last Days of Pompeii&rsquo;&mdash;that master work of
+genius, compared with which our present popular novels are poor
+indeed&mdash;and then let the reader spend an entire day, if he
+can, among the Pompeiian remains, in the museum at Naples, which
+Garibaldi, when Dictator of Naples, handed over to the
+people.&nbsp; Pompeii is easy of access by the railway, which
+lands you at the very spot, after a short but pleasant
+trip.&nbsp; Much can be accomplished there and back for a little
+more than three francs.&nbsp; On Sundays Pompeii can be visited
+for nothing; on other days the charge is one franc, and when you
+have paid the guide the franc, I think you will agree with me
+that in no other part of the world can you see so much that is
+truly wonderful at so small an expense.&nbsp; Close to the gate
+are a hotel&mdash;the H&ocirc;tel du Diomede&mdash;and a
+restaurant, at either of which you can get all the refreshments
+you require; and if it is too hot to walk&mdash;and in the summer
+months Pompeii is a very hot <a name="page24"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 24</span>place indeed&mdash;there are chairs
+in the grounds in which you can be carried all round and see all
+that is to be seen at very little personal fatigue.</p>
+<p>Pompeii is spread out in an elliptical form on the brow of a
+hill, and extends over a space of nearly two miles.&nbsp; On one
+side of you is Vesuvius, and on the other the blue waters of the
+bay.&nbsp; One of the towns through which you pass in the train
+is Portici, the ancient Herculaneum; as it is, you are lost in
+wonder at the awful extent of the catastrophe which turned all
+this smiling land into a scene of desolation and death, and
+which, at any rate, led to the extinction of one philosophic
+career&mdash;that of the elder Pliny, a real victim to the
+pursuit of knowledge under difficulties.&nbsp; At the time of its
+visitation, Pompeii is reputed to have had a population of about
+26,000.</p>
+<p>Imagination fails to realize the agony of the hour as the
+swift, black, sulphurous death came down on all&mdash;the
+patrician in his marble halls, the tradesman in his shop, the
+miser at his desk, the devotees who cried to their gods for
+safety in vain, the slave, the freedman, the aged, to whom life
+had nothing to give, the tender, the beautiful, the young, to
+whom life seemed an exhaustless dream of joy.&nbsp; As in the
+days of the flood, there was marrying and giving in
+marriage.&nbsp; Here the baker had fled, and left his loaves in
+his oven; there was an eating-house, in which were found raisins,
+olives, and fish cooked in oil.&nbsp; There stands the tavern,
+indicated by the sign of the chequers, while the amphor&aelig; of
+wines are still marked with the year of the vintage.&nbsp; An
+election was going on at the time of the catastrophe, and appeals
+to the free and independent are still preserved.&nbsp; In one
+place a schoolboy has <a name="page25"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 25</span>scratched his Greek alphabet.&nbsp;
+In his sentry-box a sentinel was discovered, a grisly skeleton
+clasping his rusty sword.&nbsp; And the streets tell a piteous
+tale.&nbsp; In one a young man and woman had fallen together; in
+another part a lady was discovered attempting to flee with a bag
+of gold, and then there was seen the skeleton of a mother with
+her children, whom she was vainly seeking to save.&nbsp; In the
+house of Diomede, or, rather, in a vaulted cellar underneath,
+eighteen bodies were found of men and women who had evidently
+fled there for shelter.&nbsp; The probable proprietor of the
+house was found near the garden door, with the key in his hand,
+while beside him was a slave with valuables.&nbsp; It is evident
+that the city was a scene of vice and dissipation.&nbsp; Some of
+the inscriptions are too indecent to reproduce.&nbsp; I know not
+whether for this it becomes us to point the finger of scorn, we
+who read &lsquo;Don Juan,&rsquo; who revel in Fielding, who
+reverence Dean Swift, who know what goes on in Paris and London
+by night, when respectability has gone to bed and Exeter Hall is
+shut up.</p>
+<p>Let me turn to the streets&mdash;they are very
+narrow&mdash;and to the houses, which strike me as generally very
+small.&nbsp; In that grand climate the people must have mostly
+lived in the open air.&nbsp; One of the most elegant houses is
+that of the Tragic Poet.&nbsp; On the threshold was a dog in
+mosaic, with the inscription &lsquo;Cave canem&rsquo;&mdash;now
+in the museum at Naples.&nbsp; I was much interested in the
+public baths, or therm&aelig;, which indicate with how much care
+the ancient Romans attended to cleanliness and health.&nbsp; They
+must have been on a somewhat extensive scale.&nbsp; A passage
+leads to the chamber for undressing.&nbsp; Beyond this is the
+cold bath.&nbsp; <a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+26</span>Thence we make our way to the warm bath, or
+tepidarium.&nbsp; The baths also possessed an extensive
+colonnade, now converted into a garden, besides several other
+chambers and baths for women, none of which are now open to the
+public.&nbsp; But we see wonders everywhere, in spite of the fact
+that all that is best in Pompeii has been moved to the museum at
+Naples, where remains one of the finest of the Pompeiian
+mosaics&mdash;that representing a battle between Darius and
+Alexander, which no one who wishes to have a competent idea of
+ancient art should avoid going to see.&nbsp; Let me add that no
+visitor should go to Pompeii without having first got a clear
+idea of what he is going to see.&nbsp; The guides are but poor
+helps, as mostly they speak nothing but Italian.&nbsp; Further,
+let me say that if you have at Naples only the day allowed by the
+Orient Company, while waiting for the overland mails, which
+generally reach Naples in a little over two days and nights after
+leaving London, your best plan is to get hold of Cook&rsquo;s
+agent, who reaches the ship in a boat with a flag bearing the
+well-known name.&nbsp; He will take you off, drive you straight
+to Pompeii, give you time to &lsquo;do&rsquo; the place and to
+get a good lunch there, and bring you back in time to the ship to
+pursue the even tenor of your way to Egypt, or Ceylon, or
+Australia, as the case may be.&nbsp; If you have time, pursue
+your studies by a day in the museum, or more if you can.&nbsp; It
+is there you can realize best, as you study the grand statues of
+great men and women and gods and goddesses, the Diana of Ephesus
+being one of them&mdash;statues in which the</p>
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;Majesty of human
+passion<br />
+Is to the life expressed&rsquo;&mdash;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page27"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 27</span>
+<a href="images/p27b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Temple of Venus, Pompeii.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and
+Young.)"
+title=
+"Temple of Venus, Pompeii.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and
+Young.)"
+src="images/p27s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>what
+men the world&rsquo;s masters were.&nbsp; Nero has a shocking
+head; Caligula looks an empty-headed fop; but I gazed admiringly
+on the grand features of my guide, philosopher, and
+friend&mdash;Marcus Aurelius.&nbsp; And I thought of Voltaire, as
+I stood opposite the noble statue of Julius C&aelig;sar, on your
+left just as you enter the museum.&nbsp; Voltaire tells us men
+may be divided into two classes&mdash;hammers and anvils.&nbsp;
+Julius C&aelig;sar evidently belonged to the former class.&nbsp;
+It was there, too, I saw a Venus, radiant in innocence and beauty
+and sweetness and grace, as if new &lsquo;bathed in Paphian
+foam&rsquo;&mdash;the only Venus I ever could have loved.&nbsp;
+But I had no guide-book, and the day was hot, and all the
+attendants were fast asleep.</p>
+<p>Let me add a caution: Never change money if you can help
+it.&nbsp; You are sure to get a bad franc if you do.&nbsp; At
+Pompeii the guide tried it on with me.&nbsp; Again, while waiting
+for the train at Pompeii, I was tempted to have a deal with a
+pedlar, who asked me ten francs for souvenirs, which I
+subsequently bought, after a good deal of haggling, for
+five.&nbsp; Unfortunately, I had only a ten-franc note, and he
+had to give me change&mdash;not in coppers, as they generally do
+in Naples, where silver is scarce, but in francs; and one of them
+was bad, as I found out when I went to the museum next day.&nbsp;
+To my disgust, the civil gentleman who takes the money kindly cut
+it in two.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;I will call for you at a quarter-past seven,&rsquo;
+said Cook&rsquo;s agent to me, as he left the <i>Ormuz</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Come at that hour,&rsquo; I replied; &lsquo;I will be
+ready.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Alas! man proposes&mdash;often in vain.&nbsp; I went to bed
+early.&nbsp; I had made arrangements for an early meal.&nbsp; I
+had agreed to see that a fellow-passenger who was <a
+name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>to come
+should be ready; but I could not sleep&mdash;the heat in the bay
+was too great, the odour of the tide-less waters seemed to
+possess my soul, and as I lay awake all the chronic diseases by
+which I am borne down reasserted themselves, and I didn&rsquo;t
+get a wink of sleep till just as it was time to get up.&nbsp; I
+have an early breakfast, and yet there is no sign of Cook&rsquo;s
+agent.&nbsp; In due time I see him, and my friend and I and
+Cook&rsquo;s agent are rowed on shore, and we drive to
+Cook&rsquo;s headquarters.&nbsp; There we are put into a carriage
+drawn by three horses, and away we go along the crowded
+streets.&nbsp; What a display we have on every side of the
+unwashed, as they sit at the shop doors, or at the corners of the
+long narrow alleys in which most of them live!&nbsp; There are
+naked children, hideous old women, and very unlovely young
+ones.&nbsp; A fat priest passes with his beaver hat and black
+robes, and a young woman rushes at him and kisses his hand.&nbsp;
+The priest and the militaire are to be seen everywhere.&nbsp; No
+wonder the country is poor.</p>
+<p>As we proceed the ground begins to rise, and we see pleasant
+villas with decent gardens.&nbsp; As we rise so does the dust;
+for mostly we are shut in between two walls, over which we see
+the vine hang heavily, or apricots glitter among the green
+branches on either side.&nbsp; Here and there is a break in the
+wall, and, seated at rustic tables, peasants and their families
+are enjoying a holiday, looking under their vine arbours across
+the blue bay or pleasant Capri, or glancing upward at the smoking
+mountain above.&nbsp; At one of these wayside publics our driver
+stops to water horses, which are useful animals, and, in spite of
+the heat, never turn a hair.&nbsp; We enter the principal room,
+at <a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>one end
+of which is a big bed, while nearer the door is a table with wine
+and glasses, and fruit, and specimens of lava and other
+matters.&nbsp; My friend, with the recklessness of youth, spends
+his money.&nbsp; I refuse to do anything of the kind; and again
+our coachman urges on his wild career.&nbsp; He pulls up again as
+a woman rushes out of her cabin to offer us drink.&nbsp; Again we
+are tempted, and in vain.&nbsp; Then we reach a level of reeds
+and rushes, where resides a venerable and unwashed hermit, who
+sighs as he turns in and thinks of the hardness of our
+hearts.&nbsp; We are now nearly out of the cultivated land, as we
+see the gigantic fields of lava on every side; where it can all
+have come from is a mystery.&nbsp; You can scarcely realize how
+all this lava&mdash;stretched on every hand, far and
+wide&mdash;can ever have come out of that crater.&nbsp; There
+seems more lava than you could get into the mountain itself; and
+how terrible must have been the scene when the red-hot lava
+rushed down the mountain-side, overwhelming green vines, and
+square-roofed huts, and living animals, and smiling babes, and
+weak and helpless old age!&nbsp; As it cooled, it seems to have
+wreathed itself into a thousand fantastic shapes&mdash;and yet
+the scene is fair and tranquil.&nbsp; A small wreath of smoke at
+the top only suggests a feeble fire within, and down far below
+the blue Mediterranean sleeps, and gay Naples sparkles, and the
+great Campagna opens up its vast green solitudes, save where,
+here and there, a white-stoned villa varies its monotony.&nbsp;
+Around me animal life exists not.&nbsp; The yellow birch blooms
+in her golden beauty, that is all, and the common white butterfly
+of England has the upper airs all to herself.</p>
+<p>As we reach the observatory&mdash;an oasis in the
+desert&mdash;<a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+31</span>we meet a couple of sportsmen; they have a gun between
+them, though why I cannot understand, as I see nothing to shoot
+at but lizards, and so we are drawn slowly on the dusty road,
+which zigzags in the most wonderful manner every few yards.&nbsp;
+We enter through a gateway which, I presume, marks the bounds of
+the Cook territory, as one of his agents takes a look at our
+tickets.&nbsp; With joy our brown-faced coachman points us to a
+white, flat-roofed building, which he declares truly is the
+hotel, where he intimates we can have lunch, and where he
+intimates he can do the same if we will supply the
+cash&mdash;which we do, though he had no right to ask
+it&mdash;and weaned and parched we enter the grateful portals of
+the hotel to feast, and to enjoy a refreshing breeze, which we
+should have sought for in Naples in vain.&nbsp; As I rested
+there, I felt no wish to depart either upwards or downwards.</p>
+<p>Of course the summer is the bad time for the crater.&nbsp; In
+the season Cook has his pilgrims, sometimes to the number of 200
+a day.&nbsp; The cars are airy and light.&nbsp; As one goes up,
+another descends, and thus the work goes on under the care of an
+able German, who caught a fever in Egypt, and has been ordered
+here for the benefit of his health.&nbsp; The whole country
+should be called Cooksland.&nbsp; It is there John Cook reigns
+supreme.&nbsp; Just as I was leaving London a Leicester gentleman
+said to me: &lsquo;I wonder Mr. Gladstone did not make John Cook
+a baronet.&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;The man who does what Mr. Cook
+does, for all travellers, whatever their nationality, surely
+deserves public recognition,&rsquo; says a commercial Dutchman to
+me as I write; &lsquo;I am off to Palermo and Catana and
+Messina.&nbsp; I have taken Cook&rsquo;s tickets for all the
+way.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>I found
+in my subsequent travels every one of us had more or less to
+enjoy the assistance of Cook&rsquo;s agents.&nbsp; In many cases
+travellers derive great pecuniary benefit from doing so.&nbsp; I
+remember a friend of mine got some money changed for him by
+Cook&rsquo;s agent on very much cheaper terms than he could
+anywhere else.</p>
+<p>Italy is a poor country; yet it displays a sense of humour
+highly creditable under the circumstances.&nbsp; The site of the
+Custom House in Naples is locally known as the Immaculate.</p>
+<h2><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+33</span>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE ISLES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.</p>
+<p>Remember, as the great Dr. Johnson remarks, how life consists
+not of a series of illustrious actions or elegant enjoyments; the
+greater part of our time passes in compliance with necessities in
+the performance of daily duties, in the procurement of petty
+pleasures; and we are well or ill at ease as the main stream of
+life glides on smoothly, or is ruffled by small obstacles and
+frequent interruptions.&nbsp; This is emphatically true as
+regards life at sea.&nbsp; But as we steam along we see much to
+attract and excite in the isles of the Mediterranean, that
+diversify the travel all the way from Marseilles to Jaffa.&nbsp;
+It is said that there are eighty ports in the Mediterranean, and
+that into all of them Lord Brassey can take his yacht without a
+pilot.&nbsp; Alas! I am permitted to tarry at none of them.</p>
+<p>As we sail out of the Bay of Naples we pass Capri&mdash;a
+rocky island, where there is scarce a yard of level
+ground&mdash;dear to Englishmen and artists.&nbsp; The highest
+point of Capri is about 1,960 feet above the sea.&nbsp; The
+traveller will find there several hotels.&nbsp; Roman remains
+abound, and Tiberius, the drunken and dissolute, had twelve
+palaces there.&nbsp; There he was in no fear of unwelcome <a
+name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>intrusion,
+and gave himself up to shameless and unnatural lusts; while his
+worthy lieutenant, Sejanus, carried on a series of persecutions
+against all who stood in any relation to the imperial family, or
+excited the suspicions of the tyrant by freedom of speech,
+independence of character, or position, or popularity.&nbsp; The
+famous Blue Grotto of Capri is on the northern side, near the
+landing.&nbsp; In the great war with France, Sir Hudson
+Lowe&mdash;the same General who had subsequently charge of
+Bonaparte at St. Helena&mdash;had to surrender the island to
+Murat, after a fortnight&rsquo;s siege, and had the mortification
+of seeing reinforcements arrive just after the treaty was
+signed.&nbsp; Leaving Capri, the Gulf of Salerno opens;
+P&aelig;stum, with its temples, lying on the southern bight of
+the gulf.&nbsp; Then follows the elevated headland of Cape
+Palinure&mdash;named after Palinurus, the pilot of &AElig;neas,
+whose tomb is marked by a tower on the cliff some eight miles
+northward, thus fulfilling the Sibyl&rsquo;s promise in the
+&lsquo;&AElig;neid,&rsquo;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;And Palinurus&rsquo; name the place shall
+bear.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We next get a peep at the now active volcano of Stromboli, and
+the Lipari Islands to the northward.&nbsp; On these islands, the
+Insul&aelig;-Eoli&aelig;, also the Vulcani&aelig; of the
+ancients, &AElig;olus held the winds enclosed in caverns, letting
+them blow and howl as it seemed good in his sight.&nbsp; There,
+too, Vulcan forged the bolts of Jove.</p>
+<p>From Naples we steer for Sicily, once, though only for a short
+time, prosperous under British rule, when we took possession of
+it in the name of the King of Naples, after he was driven away
+from Italy by the <a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+35</span>soldiers of France.&nbsp; Garibaldi handed it over to
+United Italy.&nbsp; Sicily is a country which is almost unknown
+to tourists, though in his youth Mr. Gladstone visited the island
+and wrote: &lsquo;After Etna, the temples are the great charm and
+attraction of Sicily.&nbsp; I do not know whether there is any
+one, if taken alone, which exceeds in interest and beauty that of
+Neptune at P&aelig;stum, but they have the advantage of number
+and variety as well as of interesting position.&rsquo;&nbsp; We
+pass Catania, which had the most celebrated University in
+Italy.&nbsp; The present town is comparatively new; many of its
+more ancient remains are covered with lava; among them the
+theatre, from which it is probable Alcibiades addressed the
+people in <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 415.&nbsp; What
+memories rose up before us as we steamed along the Straits of
+Messina!&nbsp; It was from Syracuse that St. Paul sailed away to
+Reggio, on the coast of Italy, and all the parsons on board pull
+out their Testaments and compare notes.&nbsp; I trow I know more
+of the Greeks, and Romans, and Carthaginians, who shed so much
+blood, and waged so many desolating wars in these now peaceful
+regions.&nbsp; The town was founded by the Greeks nearly 3,000
+years ago.&nbsp; All the nations seem at one time to have held
+Sicily&mdash;Romans, Greeks, Moors, Turks, and Normans.&nbsp;
+There are some of us who can yet remember how Cicero thundered
+against Verres for his misgovernment of Sicily.&nbsp; It was to
+Sicily that &AElig;schylus retired to die after Sophocles had
+borne away the prize from him for his tragedy.&nbsp; The pet of
+the Athenian mob, the gay and graceful Alcibiades, fought against
+the Sicilians in vain.&nbsp; At that time they must have been a
+more intelligent people than they are now.&nbsp; Take, for
+instance, their appreciation of <a name="page36"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 36</span>Euripides.&nbsp; Of all the poets,
+writes old Plutarch, he was the man with whom the Sicilians were
+most in love.&nbsp; From every stranger that landed in their
+island they gained every small specimen or portion of his works,
+and communicated it with pleasure to each other.&nbsp; It is said
+that on one occasion a number of Athenians, upon their return
+home defeated, went to Euripides and thanked him for teaching
+their masters what they remembered of his poems; and others were
+rewarded when they were wandering about after the battle, for
+singing a few of his verses.&nbsp; Nor is this to be wondered at,
+since they tell us that when a ship from Cannes, which happened
+to be pursued by pirates, was going to take shelter in one of
+their ports, the Sicilians at first refused to receive her.&nbsp;
+Upon asking the crew whether they knew any of the verses of
+Euripides, and being answered in the affirmative, they released
+both them and their vessel.&nbsp; We are a cultured people.&nbsp;
+The Americans, according to their own ideas, are yet more
+so.&nbsp; Yet it is evident that the Sicilians were far before us
+in their admiration of poetic genius.&nbsp; Alas! Pompey the
+Great, as we still call him, gave the Sicilians a different
+lesson when he summoned the people of Messina before him, who
+refused to obey his summons, arguing that they stood excused by
+an ancient privilege granted them by the Romans.&nbsp; His reply
+was, and it was worthy of the present Emperor of Germany,
+&lsquo;Will you never have done citing laws and privileges to men
+who wear swords?&rsquo;&nbsp; Another lesson Sicily teaches us is
+how much readier the world is to remember its oppressors than its
+benefactors.&nbsp; We all have a vivid impression of Dionysius,
+the Tyrant of Syracuse, yet how few of us <a
+name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>are familiar
+with the fame of Dion the Patriot, who was the pupil of Plato
+when the philosopher dwelt for a time in Syracuse.&nbsp; It is to
+the credit of the Sicilians that they were a grateful
+people.&nbsp; When Timoleon died they gave him a public funeral,
+and instituted games in his honour, &lsquo;as the man who
+destroyed tyrants, subdued barbarians, repeopled great cities
+which lay desolate, and restored the Sicilians their laws and
+privileges.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Gradually we make our way through the Straits, sailing between
+Scylla and Charybdis, which for the modern traveller has no
+terrors.&nbsp; Our last view of Sicily gives us a fine glimpse of
+Etna, with the crater into which Empedocles threw himself, 400
+<span class="smcap">b.c.</span>&nbsp; Men are immortalized as
+much by their follies as by their virtues.&nbsp; As we onward
+press we get a glimpse of Candia, with the snowy peaks of Mount
+Ida, and Gavodo, or Goro, supposed to be the Clauda of St.
+Paul&rsquo;s voyage to the westward.&nbsp; What associations rise
+as we see Cephalonia, Zante, Corfu!&mdash;all looking dry and
+bare in the scorching sun.&nbsp; We manage to make our way,
+though with some difficulty, through the Canal of Corinth, a work
+which I fear can never pay, as it is not large enough for the big
+steamers which now plough these waters.&nbsp; Everywhere islands,
+or rather rocks, diversify the scene, and every day we have more
+radiant sunsets and sunrises than you can realize in a Northern
+clime.&nbsp; To sail on this summer sea is indeed a treat.&nbsp;
+No wonder old Ulysses loved to wander among these isles, and to
+leave Penelope to do her knitting and to look after her maids at
+home.&nbsp; I regret that I cannot have a peep at Crete and
+Cyprus, the most famous islands <a name="page38"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 38</span>in the Mediterranean, and we pass
+over the far-famed bay of Salamis almost unconsciously.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p38b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Corinth Canal (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+title=
+"The Corinth Canal (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+src="images/p38s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>It is not my privilege to sail from one of the historic isles
+of the Mediterranean to another, nor do I know that in all cases
+it would be safe.&nbsp; In many cases besides Corsica and Sicily
+the traveller has to look to his ways.&nbsp; There are brigands
+to be met with still and as we travelled we heard of a British
+officer who had just been made captive as he wandered about in
+search of a day&rsquo;s shooting.&nbsp; As you may well suppose,
+I gave the brigands a wide berth.&nbsp; I am quite content with
+being fleeced by guides and hotel-keepers.&nbsp; When I was in
+Australia, I was amused to learn that <a name="page39"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 39</span>the last of the bushrangers had
+sailed to America to carry on a hotel.&nbsp; I fear that in many
+parts of the world the two callings have much in common.&nbsp; I
+believe the British pay no taxes&mdash;at any rate, they do not
+in Jerusalem&mdash;and this is one reason why we meet with such
+swarms of shady Greeks who claim to be British subjects.&nbsp; In
+this part of the world the <i>Civis Romanus sum</i> of old
+Palmerston seems to me in danger of being carried a deal too
+far.&nbsp; Not that I am a Little Englander; I am, in fact, very
+much the reverse.</p>
+<p>Over these waters sailed the hardy mariners of ancient Greece
+in search of the Golden Fleece, and the brave Theseus, as he went
+to do battle with the monster Minos, who demanded a yearly
+tribute of Athenian maids.&nbsp; We all went on deck to have a
+look at Patmos, where the Apostle John wrote that wondrous dream,
+the Revelation, and viewed with interest the white convent on the
+island which still bears his name.</p>
+<p>In the Sea of Marmora we pass the Princes Islands, four of
+which are inhabited.&nbsp; In one of them is the grave of Sir
+Edward Barton, the first resident British Ambassador in
+Turkey.&nbsp; He was sent by Queen Elizabeth to the Sultan
+Mahommed III., and died in 1507.&nbsp; Another of them, Plati,
+was purchased by Sir H. Bulwer while Ambassador to
+Constantinople.&nbsp; He built a castle on it, which is now
+falling into ruins, and later sold the island to the ex-Khedive
+of Egypt, to whose family it still belongs.&nbsp; Steaming south,
+we pass Alexandria Troas, which was twice visited by St.
+Paul.&nbsp; On the first occasion he came down from Mysia and
+went to Macedonia; on the second, on his return from Greece, he
+had an interview with a large <a name="page40"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 40</span>body of fellow-workers.&nbsp; It was
+there he restored Eutychus, who had fallen from an upper window
+in his sleep.</p>
+<p>Next we pass the ancient island of Lesbos, one of the most
+beautiful in the &AElig;gean Sea.&nbsp; Islands are around us
+everywhere.&nbsp; There is no end to them.&nbsp; The most thickly
+populated of them is Chio; another is Cos, of which we see the
+chief town, the birthplace of Hippocrates, the great
+physician.&nbsp; Then we pass Rhodes, famous for its renowned
+knights, who did battle with the ever-advancing Turk, of whom
+Luther had such fear, and its grand Colossus overthrown and
+broken in pieces by an earthquake fifty-six years after its
+erection, <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 224; and then we leave
+the lovely Mediterranean at Jaffa, where, according to Greek
+mythology, Andromeda was chained to the rock and delivered by
+Perseus, and where the prophet Jonah embarked when he tried to
+escape the command of God to go and warn Nineveh of its impending
+fate.&nbsp; Of course I went to the house where St. Peter lived,
+the dwelling of Simon the tanner, a very dreary, tumbledown old
+place, which required a good deal of climbing, rather trying in
+that sultry clime.&nbsp; And here I leave that wonderful
+Mediterranean over which the navies of all the world in all ages
+have swept.</p>
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;Thy shores are empires,
+changed in all save thee&mdash;<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Assyria, Greece, Rome, Carthage, what are they?<br
+/>
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Thy waters washed them power while they were
+free,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And many a tyrant since; their shores obey<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The stranger, slave, or savage; their decay<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Has dried up realms to deserts: not so thou;<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Unchangeable save to thy wild waves&rsquo;
+play&mdash;<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Time writes no wrinkles on thine azure
+brow&mdash;<br />
+Such as Creation&rsquo;s dawn beheld, thou rollest
+now.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h2><a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+41</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">ABOUT ATHENS.</p>
+<p>For the first time in my life, I realize the fact that the
+Mediterranean is a lake&mdash;calm and blue as the eyes we
+love.&nbsp; What astonishes me is the absence of life in these
+waters.&nbsp; All is barren as that dreary sail across the Indian
+Ocean from Ceylon to West Australia.&nbsp; Really, if it were not
+for the photographers, who are always at work on board, we should
+be rather dull.&nbsp; It is really wonderful the number of
+amateur photographers who have come out in the <i>Midnight
+Sun</i>, and are daily having recourse to their art; and
+sometimes the consequences are ludicrous.&nbsp; For instance, we
+have a considerable number of respectable married people on
+board.&nbsp; Amongst them are a young couple whose experience of
+matrimonial felicity has been, I suspect, somewhat of the
+shortest.&nbsp; One morning they were &lsquo;far from the madding
+crowd,&rsquo; indulging in little familiarities, such as leaning
+on one another&rsquo;s shoulders&mdash;quite proper, as we must
+all admit, but rather suited for private than public life.&nbsp;
+Well, a photographer had his eye on them, and straightway made
+them his victims.&nbsp; There they were, large and fully
+recognisable.&nbsp; His praiseworthy <a name="page42"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 42</span>attempt was greeted with a roar of
+laughter, of which the victims, far away (the artist was on the
+upper deck), had not the remotest idea.&nbsp; Let me add the
+moral: let me beg the newly-married ones to beware of the
+photographers.&nbsp; More numerous than the photographers are the
+ladies and gentlemen who spend their mornings in writing their
+diaries&mdash;if with a view to publication, a sad look-out.</p>
+<p>In due time we reach Attica, and are landed at the
+Pir&aelig;us, which is busy now as when Themistocles planned the
+harbour and Pericles planted its walls, five miles in
+length.&nbsp; The town has quite a modern look; nothing of its
+ancient glory remains.&nbsp; Its modern history dates from
+1834.&nbsp; A modern lighthouse marks the site of the tomb of
+Themistocles.&nbsp; A railway, made in 1869, now connects the
+Pir&aelig;us with Athens, and it grows apace.&nbsp; In old times
+there was rarely to be seen any boat in the harbour.&nbsp; In
+1871 the population was only 11,000; in 1890 it had grown to
+36,000, About 6,000 vessels of over two and a half millions of
+tonnage, one half of which is in Greek bottoms, enter the harbour
+annually.&nbsp; As a town, it consists chiefly of commercial
+buildings and unpretending private residences.&nbsp; It has,
+however, an arsenal, a military and naval school, several
+handsome churches for the orthodox members of the Greek Church,
+an interesting museum of antiquities, and a gymnasium.&nbsp;
+Trains run to Athens through the whole day until midnight.&nbsp;
+We land in a homely quarter of the town.&nbsp; &lsquo;It is in
+the spring,&rsquo; writes Edmond About, &lsquo;one sees Attica in
+her glory, when the air is so clear and transparent that it seems
+as if one had only to put forth one&rsquo;s hand to touch the
+furthest mountains; when <a name="page43"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 43</span>it carries sounds so faithfully that
+one can hear the bleating of flocks half a mile away, and the
+cries of great eagles, which are lost to sight in the immensity
+of the skies.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>I find Athens hot and dusty&mdash;a fine white dust, which
+makes everything look desolate.&nbsp; I get hold of a plan of
+Athens, showing me how to make the most of six days, but as I
+have not that time to spare, one&rsquo;s first thoughts turn
+naturally to the Acropolis, a rocky plateau of crystallized
+limestone, rising to about 200 feet.&nbsp; Romans, Goths,
+Byzantines, and Turks have done their best to make Athens a heap
+of ruins.&nbsp; It was well that Lord Elgin did so much to
+preserve some of the choicest relics of Athens by bringing them
+to England and sending them to the British Museum.&nbsp; Had he
+not done so, they would have been inevitably destroyed by the
+unspeakable Turk, a fact deeply to be deplored.</p>
+<p>One night we had an amusing illustration of the qualification
+of the fair sex for the right to rule over man.&nbsp; There was a
+concert in the smoking-room, the finest apartment in the
+ship.&nbsp; Amongst the performers were some ladies, and a good
+many were auditors.&nbsp; Suddenly a large rat made its
+appearance, when all the ladies, shrieking, fled.&nbsp; I may not
+be equal to the New Woman&mdash;of course she is far above
+me&mdash;but, at any rate, I am not afraid to face a rat.&nbsp;
+Fancy a rat appearing in the House of Commons with a lady speaker
+on her legs, and a Government of ladies seated gracefully and in
+the loveliest of toilettes!&nbsp; The result would be appalling
+and disastrous.</p>
+<p>The country through which we passed was quite dried up, and
+quite prepared me for the tasteless beef <a
+name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>and skinny
+fowl of which I was to partake afterwards at the H&ocirc;tel
+Grand Bretagne, where they charged me two francs for a cigar; and
+where, when I remonstrated, I was told that the taxes were so
+high that they could not afford to let me have one for
+less.&nbsp; There are a great many trees about, but they have all
+a dwarfed and dried-up appearance.&nbsp; Far off rises the great
+Acropolis; you may see it from the steps of the hotel, and the
+ruins on its top.&nbsp; The life of the streets amuses me.&nbsp;
+It is incessant and ever varying.&nbsp; The soldier is
+conspicuous, as he is everywhere on the Continent; priests in
+black robes and peculiar black hats are plentiful, grave and
+black-bearded, though I am told that in reality they have little
+hold on the people of Athens.&nbsp; I have been in one of the
+churches, very dark, and with a lot of ornamentation; and quite a
+number of people&mdash;very old ones&mdash;came and crossed
+themselves, after the Greek fashion, before a picture just inside
+the door.&nbsp; Ladies are to be seen, few of them with any
+particular personal charm, but all in the latest fashions of
+Paris; and there come the girls with pigtails.&nbsp; I see one of
+the French illustrated newspapers everywhere.&nbsp; Among the
+daily papers published in Athens are the <i>Ora</i> (Hour), the
+<i>Plinghensia</i> (Regeneration), <i>Neai Ideai</i> (New Idea),
+<i>Aion</i> (Era), <i>Toia</i> (Morning), and <i>Telegrafui</i>
+(The Telegram).&nbsp; The most curious people you see are the men
+from the country, with black waistcoats, white petticoats&mdash;I
+can give them no other name&mdash;dark hose, and antique-looking
+shoes turned up at the toes and decorated&mdash;why, I know
+not&mdash;with enormous tufts.&nbsp; The living objects I most
+pity are the forlorn, half-starved donkeys, loaded fore and aft
+<a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>with
+luggage, while in the centre, on his saddle, is seated his
+hard-hearted proprietor.&nbsp; Some of the shops are fine, but
+few of the houses are lofty&mdash;the most striking being modern
+buildings, built on the plan to admit as much air as possible,
+and to exclude the light.&nbsp; But you see no beggars in the
+streets, and that is a good sign.&nbsp; Greece has, as you know,
+the most democratic Government of any.&nbsp; The King, who is not
+very popular, reigns, but does not govern.&nbsp; The real power
+is in the hands of the Legislative Chamber&mdash;there is no
+Upper House&mdash;consisting of 150 members, all paid for their
+services, and elected by means of universal suffrage and the
+ballot every four years.&nbsp; The population of Athens is about
+160,000, with the addition of 3,000 Armenian refugees who have
+found there a city of refuge.&nbsp; Education is free and
+compulsory, reaching from the lowest strata to the University, so
+that every lad of talent has a chance.&nbsp; If democracy can
+make a people happy and content and prosperous, the Greeks ought
+to be content.&nbsp; There must be a good many wealthy men at
+Athens, however, whom the democracy have wisely spared.&nbsp; It
+is not right to kill the goose that lays the golden egg, as is
+desired by some of our Socialists.</p>
+<p>Modern Greece, with the exception of America, is the most
+republican Government in existence; at any rate, it is ahead of
+England in this respect.&nbsp; We want, or, rather, some people
+do, who do not know any better, to agitate for payment of
+members.&nbsp; I object because I have seen the mischief of paid
+members in all our colonies, and because when I part with my
+scanty cash I like to have value for my money; and as I know the
+average M.P., I think he is dear at any price.&nbsp; The men <a
+name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>in office are
+bitterly opposed by the men who languish in the cold shade of
+Opposition, and that really seems the only line of
+cleavage.&nbsp; For instance, if a Minister proposes that a
+certain work should be done by a certain number of horses, the
+Opposition argue that oxen should be used, and so the battle
+rages, for the modern Greek, degenerate though he is, is still as
+fond of talk and windy declamation as any long-winded and
+ambitious M.P. at home.&nbsp; Ministers, though appointed by the
+King, are amenable to the Chamber, but under this system we do
+not hear of the great Parliament, such as we have at home or in
+Italy or France.</p>
+<p>For administrative purposes Greece is divided into sixteen
+monarchies, governed by municipalities, who alone have the power
+to levy rates and taxes.&nbsp; These monarchies are divided into
+eparchies and domarchies, the later under the control of the
+mayor, elected by the people.&nbsp; Thus in Greece alone, in the
+Old World, we have government of the people and for the
+people.&nbsp; For purposes of justice there are local courts;
+five Courts of Appeal, and a Supreme Court at Athens.&nbsp; In
+matters of education, again, Greece is far ahead of us.&nbsp; We
+want to connect the people with the Universities, so that the
+poorest lad may have his chance.&nbsp; In Greece this result is
+obtained.&nbsp; Ample provision is made for the elementary
+schools, leading from the lowest strata of society up to the
+Universities, free and compulsory&mdash;not that the latter
+provision needs to be enforced, as naturally there is a great
+desire for education all over the land.&nbsp; The Greek Church is
+the established one, but any undue zeal on the part of the priest
+is held in check both by law and the spirit of <a
+name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>religious
+toleration.&nbsp; Among her subjects Greece reckons as many as
+25,000 Moslems.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p47.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Temple Of Victory.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+title=
+"Temple Of Victory.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+src="images/p47.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Passing out of the Pir&aelig;us, to our right we notice a
+monument to the memory of one of the wild heroes of Grecian
+Independence, whose insolent followers were a great trouble to
+our Lord Byron during his fatal sojourn at Missolonghi.&nbsp; In
+due time we arrive within sight of the Temple of Theseus and the
+other well <a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+48</span>known landmarks familiar to the cultivated reader.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, the approach to Athens is not very interesting, as
+we enter through one of its most homely quarters.&nbsp; The
+principal modern institutions are the Polytechnic School, divided
+into three branches&mdash;the School of Fine Art, the Industrial
+School, and the Holiday School, where on Sundays and feast-days
+instruction is given in writing, elementary drawing, etc.; there
+is also a School of Telegraphy.&nbsp; In the same neighbourhood
+is also to be found the Academy of Science; next to the Academy
+is the University, adorned with statues of the famous men who
+helped to make modern Greece.&nbsp; The classes at the University
+are practically free, and the number of students attending is
+generally between 3,000 and 4,000.&nbsp; The library in
+connection with the University has 100,000 volumes.</p>
+<p>It is impossible to do justice to the activity of the life in
+these parts; there are many steamers in the harbour&mdash;I saw
+two steam away one morning.&nbsp; Naples seems a very sleepy
+place compared to the Pir&aelig;us.&nbsp; Little white boats,
+with leg-of-mutton sails, skim the blue waters of the harbour all
+day long, and the men are lean and dark, and wonderfully active,
+a great contrast to our English sailors.&nbsp; Once upon a time,
+coming from New York, we called off Portland Bill for a
+pilot.&nbsp; It was midnight, and dark as Erebus, but we all sat
+up waiting for the pilot, to hear the English news.&nbsp;
+Suddenly there climbed up the ship&rsquo;s side, and stood on the
+deck in the full glare of light, two awful living mountains of
+flesh, as fat as beer and bacon could make them&mdash;a couple of
+English pilots.&nbsp; We had some skinny American ladies on
+board, and when they saw these men they uttered quite an
+appalling shriek.&nbsp; <a name="page49"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 49</span>They had never seen such specimens of
+humanity before.&nbsp; I own I felt really ashamed of my
+fellow-countrymen, and asked myself why on earth men should make
+themselves such guys.&nbsp; Happily, in Australia I lost a couple
+of stone, and I have been mercifully preserved from laying on
+flesh ever since.&nbsp; Flesh is the great source of human
+depravity.&nbsp; With Falstaff, I hold the more of it the more
+frailty.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p49b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Parthenon.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+title=
+"The Parthenon.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+src="images/p49s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>And now let me return to Athens, the Acropolis of which I see
+in all its glory, and on which by night lights gleam that you can
+see in the harbour, crowning the belt of bright lamps which by
+night glorify the whole front of the town.&nbsp; They show you
+Mars&rsquo; Hill, <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+50</span>where Paul preached the unknown God; the porch of the
+Erechtheum, sacred to the olive-tree, brought to Greece by
+Athene; and the Parthenon, which still attests the genius of
+Phidias.&nbsp; Of Athens it may be said:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Her shores are those whence many a mighty
+bard<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Caught inspiration glorious in their beams;<br />
+Her hills the same that heroes died to guard,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Her vales that fostered Art&rsquo;s divinest
+dreams.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Modern Athens is bright and cheerful, the shops gay and lofty,
+with well-known Greek names.&nbsp; The latter remark also applies
+to the streets.&nbsp; The hotels are magnificent.&nbsp; The
+H&ocirc;tel d&rsquo;Angleterre is well spoken of, and the
+dragoman Apostoles will be found an intelligent servant, who will
+arrange for the traveller who is disposed to make an excursion in
+the Morea for food, lodging, mules or horses at a reasonable
+rate.&nbsp; The H&ocirc;tel Grand Bretagne, just opposite the
+palace&mdash;and a far finer building to look at&mdash;is about
+as good a hotel as I was ever in.&nbsp; The rooms seem awfully
+dark as you enter from the glare of the ever-shining sun, but the
+rooms are lofty, well ventilated, and everywhere you have marble
+floors and marble columns, and the feeding is good, considering
+what a parched-up land Greece is, and how dried-up its beef and
+skinny its poultry.&nbsp; I have seen cheaper hotels in Athens,
+such as the H&ocirc;tel des Iles Ionienic, the proprietor of
+which, a Greek from Corfu, strongly recommended it to me; but on
+the whole, in such a place as Athens, I should think it
+preferable to pay a little more for the comfort of a first-class
+hotel, even though it may make one indifferent to the
+&lsquo;Laurels&rsquo; or the &lsquo;Cedars&rsquo; of his own
+native land.</p>
+<p><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>How to
+live rationally is an art the majority of Englishmen have not yet
+acquired.&nbsp; I leave Athens with regret; its people are all
+industrious.&nbsp; At any rate, there are no beggars in its
+streets; and if this be the result of its democratic Government,
+so much the better for the coming democracy, which, whether we
+like it or not, is sure to rule at home.&nbsp; Here the
+Government is popular, and the people are content.&nbsp;
+Manufactures are almost unknown.&nbsp; They have a woollen
+factory at Athens, and a cotton-mill in the Pir&aelig;us, and
+there must be a busy agricultural population, as a good deal of
+the land between the Pir&aelig;us and the capital is laid out in
+market-gardens.&nbsp; I am troubled as I think of our great
+cities, with their vices and slums.&nbsp; I hold, with the poet,
+God made the country and man the town.</p>
+<p>It is a chequered history, that of Athens.&nbsp; Once it was
+occupied by the Goths.&nbsp; The Romans fortified it; but the
+ancient walls, which had been strengthened by Sylla, were unequal
+to its defence, and the barbarians became masters of the noble
+seats of the Muses and the Arts.&nbsp; Zosimus tells us that the
+walls of Athens were guarded by the goddess Minerva, with her
+formidable &aelig;gis, and by the angry phantom of Achilles, and
+that the conqueror was dismayed by the presence of the hostile
+gods of Greece.&nbsp; Yet, nevertheless, Alaric a second time
+mastered the city by means of his barbarian troops.&nbsp; It is
+wonderful that any remains of the Athens of its prime
+exist.&nbsp; As it is, it requires a good deal of enthusiasm to
+&lsquo;do&rsquo; its ruins, with which photography has long made
+the world familiar.&nbsp; The glory of the Parthenon, however,
+remains.&nbsp; Gibbon tells us in the sack of Athens the Goths
+had collected <a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+52</span>all the libraries, and were about to set fire to them,
+when one of the chiefs, of more refined policy than his brethren,
+dissuaded them from the design by the profound observation that
+as long as the Greeks were exercised in the study of books they
+would never apply themselves to the exercise of arms.&nbsp; But,
+as Gibbon writes, the Gothic arms were less fatal to the schools
+of Athens than the establishment of a new religion, whose masters
+resolved every question into an article of faith, and condemned
+the infidel to eternal flames.&nbsp; For centuries Athens had
+flourished by means of her schools.&nbsp; After the settlement of
+the Roman Empire, it was filled with scholars from every part of
+the known world, even including students from Britain.&nbsp; In
+the suburbs of the city tradition still lingered of the Academy
+of the Platonists, the Lyc&aelig;um of the Peripatetics, the
+Portico of the Stoics, and the Garden of Epicurus.&nbsp; The
+Attic schools of rhetoric and philosophy maintained their
+reputation from the Peloponnesian war to the reign of
+Justinian.&nbsp; It was he who suppressed the school which had
+given so many sages to mankind, and whose influences have
+quickened and invigorated the human intellect ever since.&nbsp;
+The art of oratory may soon be held to be almost a doubtful
+boon&mdash;at any rate, so far as senates and parliaments are
+concerned.&nbsp; It was not so when the eloquence of
+Demosthenes</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;shook
+the arsenal,<br />
+And fulmined over Greece.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Some of my fellow-passengers made their way to Eleusis, but
+they came back disappointed, and covered with dust.&nbsp; It was
+enough for me to study the life of the streets&mdash;full of
+soldiers and black-robed priests.</p>
+<p><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>The
+traveller who, remembering the long period of Turkish sway,
+counts on receiving an Oriental impression from the aspect of
+Athens is doomed to disappointment.&nbsp; Even the national garb
+is fast disappearing.&nbsp; It may still be worn by a few elderly
+Athenians.&nbsp; These, and a peasant here and there selling milk
+or cheese, recall the day when their dress was the national
+one.&nbsp; The wide blue trousers of the &AElig;gean islanders
+are not less rare, nor is there much chance of seeing them at the
+Pir&aelig;us, among the craft from the various islands moored
+along the quays.&nbsp; The uglier and cheaper product of the
+slop-shop has replaced the picturesque drapery of the olden
+time.</p>
+<p>Sooner or later Athens is sure to become a winter resort not
+less favoured than any on the Mediterranean, and the permanent
+home of many foreigners.&nbsp; The opinion thus confidently
+expressed is strengthened by the fact that few who have lived for
+some length of time within its gates pass out of them without
+regret, or fail to re-enter them with pleasure.&nbsp; At any
+rate, so writes a learned American.</p>
+<p>A gentleman has written explaining that Greece is bankrupt
+because she is so small.&nbsp; He says that out of 5,000,000
+Greeks who rose in 1821 against the Turk, less than 1,000,000
+were allowed to form part of the Hellenic kingdom.&nbsp; The
+obvious reply to this is, Why don&rsquo;t they go and live in
+Greece if they really want to?&nbsp; Nobody forces them to live
+elsewhere, and they can hardly be waiting till Constantinople,
+Asia Minor and Cyprus are added to King George&rsquo;s
+kingdom.&nbsp; The truth is that in business Greek would rather
+not meet Greek; there is more money in meeting somebody
+else.&nbsp; The rich Greeks will always be found outside
+Greece.</p>
+<h2><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+54</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">CONSTANTINOPLE.</p>
+<p>I am in Constantinople, founded 658 <span
+class="smcap">b.c.</span> by Byza, King of Megara, after whom it
+was called Byzantium.&nbsp; After some hundreds of years it fell
+into the hands of the Romans, who, like the Scotch, kept
+everything they could lay their hands on; and then came
+Constantine the Great, whose mother, some people say, lived in
+East Anglia, who enlarged and beautified the city, built the
+Hippodrome (one of the wonders of the place), and would have made
+it the capital of his enormous empire.&nbsp; No one can blame the
+Emperor for preferring Constantinople to Rome.</p>
+<p>The city soon became worthy to be the seat of empire.&nbsp; It
+commanded from its seven hills the opposite shores of Asia and
+Europe.&nbsp; The climate was healthy, the soil fertile, and the
+harbour capacious and secure.&nbsp; The Bosphorus and the
+Hellespont were its two gates, which could always be shut against
+a hostile fleet.&nbsp; A hundred years after its foundation, a
+writer, quoted by Gibbon, describes it as possessing a school of
+learning, a circus, two theatres, eight public and a hundred and
+fifty-three private baths, fifty-two porticos, five granaries,
+eight aqueducts, four spacious halls for the meetings <a
+name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>of the senate
+and courts of justice, fourteen churches, fourteen palaces, and
+four thousand three hundred private houses, which from their size
+and beauty deserved to be distinguished from the multitude of
+plebeian buildings.&nbsp; Successive wars and invasions impaired
+the wealth and the magnificence of the city.&nbsp; Of the time of
+Constantine little remains but the ruins of the Hippodrome.&nbsp;
+The Christian Church of St. Sophia, which he erected to the
+Eternal Wisdom, and from the pulpit of which Gregory of Nazianzen
+and Chrysostom the golden-mouthed thundered, was burnt in the
+reign of Justinian, and his Church of St. Sophia is now a Turkish
+mosque.&nbsp; The city was the seat and centre of the
+controversies originated in Alexandria as to the nature of the
+Trinity, and its rival factions, the Greens and the Blues, were
+ever ready to engage in bloody and disastrous conflict.&nbsp; As
+a rule, a man&rsquo;s zeal is according to his ignorance, and at
+Constantinople the meanest mechanics spent most of their time in
+discussing mysteries of which the acutest intellects can never
+even form an adequate idea, and which no human creed can properly
+define and express.&nbsp; The Crusaders, who knew little of these
+matters, seem to have been quite awestruck when they made their
+way to Constantinople.&nbsp; &lsquo;That such a city could be in
+the world,&rsquo; writes one of the old chroniclers, &lsquo;they
+had never conceived, and they were never weary of staring at the
+high walls and towers with which it was entirely compassed; the
+rich palaces and lofty churches, of which there were so many that
+no one could have believed it if he had not seen with his own
+eyes that city&mdash;the queen of all cities.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>There are few places naturally so picturesque&mdash;no city <a
+name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>where the
+suburbs are so charming.&nbsp; One never wearies of Scutari,
+Gallipoli, washed by the splendid waters of the Sea of Marmora,
+the Bosphorus, or those of that magnificent harbour, the Golden
+Horn, which extends eight miles, and affords an anchorage for a
+fleet of twelve hundred vessels.&nbsp; Indeed, whether viewed
+from sea or land, or from such a wonderful standpoint as the
+marble tower of the Seraskierat, Constantinople on its seven
+hills, divided as it were between Europe and Asia, presents a
+marvellous display of scenic beauty.&nbsp; You gaze on stately
+white palaces, surrounded by domes, towers, cupolas, standing
+amidst tier above tier of many-coloured dwellings, surrounded on
+all sides by graceful masses of dark cypresses and sombre
+pines.&nbsp; High above all rises the grand marble mosque of St.
+Sophia, resplendent with mosaics, and sending up heavenwards its
+lofty minarets, whence five times a day the cry of the muezzin
+calls the world to prayer.&nbsp; As you look and admire, you
+feel, with the poet,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;That every prospect pleases,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And only man is vile&rsquo;&mdash;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>that is, ever since the Turk has been there.&nbsp; And thus it
+appears that Constantinople has been, socially and politically, a
+centre of abominations.&nbsp; It was in 1453 that Mahomet II.
+took it as his own, and it is there that the unspeakable Turk has
+ever since remained, and mainly in consequence of English
+diplomacy and the prodigal expenditure of English treasure and
+blood.&nbsp; The climax was reached in the days of Lord Stratford
+de Redcliffe&mdash;the Great Elchi, as he was termed.&nbsp; He
+insisted on reforms, and the Sultan granted them.&nbsp; He
+insisted that all religions should be equal in the eye of the
+law, and the precious boon was at once declared.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p57b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"A busy street in Constantinople.  (From a photograph)"
+title=
+"A busy street in Constantinople.  (From a photograph)"
+src="images/p57s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>Under
+the pressure of the Great Elchi, the Sultan issued a
+proclamation, stating his desire of renewing and enlarging the
+numerous improvements suggested in his institutions, with a view
+of making them worthy of the place which his empire held among
+civilized nations.&nbsp; He was anxious, he said, to promote the
+happiness of his people, who in his sight were all equal and
+equally dear.&nbsp; &lsquo;Every distinction or designation
+tending to make any class of subjects of my empire inferior to
+any other class on account of their religion, language, or race
+shall be for ever effaced.&rsquo;&nbsp; No one was to be hindered
+in future on account of his religious creed; no one was to be
+compelled to change his religion.&nbsp; Such was the spirit of
+the famous <i>hatti Humayun</i> of 1856.&nbsp; Then came the
+Treaty of Paris, to destroy the influence of England in the
+East.&nbsp; The French cared nothing for Turkish reform, and have
+cared nothing ever since.&nbsp; Bulgarian atrocities, murder and
+massacre in Cyprus, murder and massacre on a larger scale in
+Armenia or wherever Armenians are gathered together&mdash;of
+these things the gay world of Paris takes little heed, except
+when an occasion offers to sneer at John Bull.&nbsp; What cares
+La Belle France, so long as it has its boulevards and theatres,
+for the deadly sufferings of any nationality?&nbsp; When did it
+ever fight for men and women dying by the thousand&mdash;ay, tens
+of thousands, under the despotic sway of a Sultan Abdul
+Hamid?&nbsp; France does not fight; its aim is to sneer at others
+and to glorify itself, to make better people as heartless, as
+cynical, as frivolous as itself.&nbsp; And are we much
+better&mdash;we, whose people, and nobles, and courtiers, and
+statesmen, and princes, have just done throwing themselves under
+the feet of 
+<a href="images/p59b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"A Mosque on the Bosphorus.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co.,
+Reigate)"
+title=
+"A Mosque on the Bosphorus.  (From a photograph by Frith and Co.,
+Reigate)"
+src="images/p59s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 60</span>the
+Czar?&nbsp; Yes, but John Bull can act when he has a
+mind&mdash;that is, when he has his inferiors to deal with.&nbsp;
+It was beautiful when we brought Greece on her knees over the Don
+Pacifico affair!&nbsp; How bitterly we made China pay for her
+attack on the <i>Arrow</i>!&nbsp; How we settled the would-be
+Sultan of Zanzibar!&nbsp; How we have smitten the Dervishes hip
+and thigh!&nbsp; When I was in Ceylon, I had an interesting
+interview with Arabi Pasha.&nbsp; I left him hoping, and that is
+what we all do as regards Turkish affairs&mdash;hoping for what
+never comes.</p>
+<p>In the Dardanelles we make our first acquaintance with the
+Turk.&nbsp; He arrives in a small steamer, with a crew of men
+wearing the red fez, and at the stern of his boat floats the red
+flag of Turkey, bearing the crescent.&nbsp; He gives us
+permission to pursue our way past the forts on either side at the
+mouth and along the Dardanelles, at the entrance to which point
+are lying off on our right the far-famed plains of windy
+Troy.&nbsp; I see also a couple of ironclads, but of what
+nationality I cannot exactly make out.&nbsp; We are soon out of
+the Dardanelles, and at Gallipoli, the last town on the European
+side, and we enter the Sea of Marmora.&nbsp; In current language,
+Constantinople includes Stamboul, Galata, and its suburbs, which
+stretch up both sides of the Bosphorus.&nbsp; Galata, the
+mercantile and shipping quarter, occupies the point and slopes at
+the right-hand side of the Golden Horn.</p>
+<p>Constantinople looks best at a distance.&nbsp; It is true here
+that distance lends enchantment to the view.&nbsp; Outside it
+glitters with magnificence.&nbsp; Inside it is foul and beastly,
+with pavements detestable to walk along or drive, with ruins at
+every corner, and with refuse 
+<a href="images/p61b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"The Quay, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and
+Young)"
+title=
+"The Quay, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle and
+Young)"
+src="images/p61s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>lying
+to fester in the blazing sun all day long&mdash;certainly a
+remarkable illustration of what Lord Palmerston affirmed, that
+dirt was only matter in the wrong place.&nbsp; If you drive you
+are choked with dust, and the streets are by no means broad
+enough for the constant business and bustle.&nbsp; Enter the
+mosques, and you are astonished at their grandeur and the air of
+desolation and neglect all round.&nbsp; On the waters you miss
+the gay caique, now superseded by the steam-ferries, ever
+vomiting clouds of sulphurous smoke.&nbsp; In the city you see
+the tramcar, a very shabby one, doing a roaring trade.&nbsp; Down
+by the harbour you see the police, well armed and in small
+detachments, carefully guarding the streets.&nbsp; The men, with
+the exception of the red fez, mostly wear the European
+costume.&nbsp; The women you see in the streets are old and ugly,
+and, happily, veiled, so that you see nothing of their ugliness
+but the nose and eyes.&nbsp; Some of the little urchins and girls
+are very bright-looking, but I fancy they are mostly
+Greeks.&nbsp; The Turkish boy of the middle class seemed to me
+very heavy, but, however that may be, he develops into a fine
+man, with a grand dark face and powerful nose, and looks
+especially well when on his Arab steed&mdash;small, but active
+and strong, as if he were born to drive everyone before
+him.&nbsp; Alas! in his little shop he seems very listless and
+apathetic, but the man in the street is very pertinacious, and I
+have just bought an elegant walking-stick for half a crown, after
+being asked four shillings, which I hold to be the cheapest
+bargain I have made for some time.</p>
+<p>We are quite mistaken in England as to the safety of walking
+the streets in Constantinople.&nbsp; I heard of a row last night,
+but by day the streets are quite as <a name="page63"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 63</span>secure as they are in London.&nbsp;
+One thing that astonishes me is the utter ignorance of the people
+of what is going on outside respecting Turkish affairs, and the
+action, if any, of the diplomatists.&nbsp; You never hear a word
+on the subject.&nbsp; To sell seems to be the only aim of the
+Turk.&nbsp; The shops are prodigious.&nbsp; In London their
+owners would be a great middle class, and form an enlightened
+public opinion.&nbsp; Here they do nothing of the kind, and there
+is not a street that has a decent pavement nor a corner that is
+not a dunghill.&nbsp; There seems to be no attempt at
+improvement.&nbsp; The dogs&mdash;very much like Australian
+dingoes&mdash;bark and bite all day and howl all night.&nbsp;
+Confusion and decay seem to reign paramount.&nbsp; Now and then
+you come to an open space&mdash;as at the old slave-market, the
+mosques, and the Hippodrome, where a few trees, chiefly acacias,
+manage to live, and then you plunge into Holywell Street as it
+existed half a century back, and all is darkness and dirt
+again.</p>
+<p>Constantinople seems to live chiefly on corn imported from
+Roumelia and Bulgaria; but they say they are going to open up
+Asia Minor by means of railways, and the wheat-grower there will
+then have his chance.&nbsp; There are few liquor-shops, but many
+for the sale of lemon-and-water and grapes and melons.&nbsp; In
+many a shop I see Sunlight Soap and the biscuits of Huntley and
+Palmer and Peek and Frean.&nbsp; The donkeys and horses have an
+awful time of it as they go along the narrow streets, with
+panniers on each side, which appear to get in everyone&rsquo;s
+way.&nbsp; Then comes a rickety waggon, drawn by two big oxen,
+which seem as if they must grind the pedestrian to powder.&nbsp;
+Then follows the porter, perspiring and bending under his <a
+name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>heavy load,
+and the aged crone, more or less veiled, as if she
+had&mdash;which she has not, unhappily&mdash;a glimpse of female
+charm to display.&nbsp; Now and then you meet a priest with his
+red-and-white turban and long brown robe, and if you make your
+way into a mosque&mdash;and they are all worth
+visiting&mdash;there, in a little wooden recess, seated
+cross-legged on an Indian mat, you will find a priest or devout
+layman by himself, repeating verses of the Koran.&nbsp; The
+mosques are grotesque outside, but inspiring from their size
+inside.</p>
+<p>Constantinople is not the place to come to on a hot November
+day, and the commercial port is, I hold, utterly unfit for
+shipping.&nbsp; We have a good deal of diarrhoea on board, nor
+can you wonder, when you remember that into this one spot flows
+all the filth and sewage of Galata.&nbsp; It is worse than
+Naples; it is worse than Athens, and that is saying a good
+deal.&nbsp; Coleridge&rsquo;s Cologne, with its numerous
+stenches, is nothing to it.&nbsp; If there be any truth in
+sanitary science, there must be an awful waste of life in these
+parts.&nbsp; Here we hear not a whisper of the Turkish crisis, or
+of the driving out of the Turk, &lsquo;bag and baggage,&rsquo; as
+Lord Stratford de Redcliffe wrote fifty years before Mr.
+Gladstone adopted the celebrated phrase.&nbsp; Be that as it may,
+Constantinople gives you an idea of a densely-populated
+city.&nbsp; It is with real difficulty that you make your way
+anywhere.&nbsp; The fat official Turk, who dines in some gorgeous
+palace&mdash;and the place is full of them&mdash;and drives in
+his brougham and pair, may have an easy time of it; but the
+majority of the inhabitants, in their narrow shops and darkened
+houses, must have a bad time of it.&nbsp; I sigh for the wings of
+a dove, that I may fly away and be at rest.&nbsp; Under this
+pestiferous <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+65</span>atmosphere and bright, blazing sun, it is impossible to
+do anything but sleep; but that is not easy in one&rsquo;s small
+cabin, floating on this wide waste of sewage.&nbsp; There seems
+nothing to amuse the people.&nbsp; In the course of my
+peregrinations I met with but one minstrel, and he was far
+away.&nbsp; Next to the mosques, the coolest place I have yet
+visited is the new museum, with a 
+<a href="images/p65b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Galata Bridge, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle
+and Young)"
+title=
+"Galata Bridge, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle
+and Young)"
+src="images/p65s.jpg" />
+</a>fine collection of Greek and Roman and Egyptian antiquities;
+but I am no friend to a hurried visit to a museum, which leaves
+the mind rather confused and uninformed.&nbsp; As yet I have made
+no attempt to penetrate into the mysteries of the harem.&nbsp;
+For one thing, I am rather past that sort of thing.&nbsp; But if
+I may judge from what I have seen outside the harem, there can be
+but little to tempt one to enter within; and <a
+name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>with the poet
+I exclaim, &lsquo;Where ignorance is bliss, &rsquo;tis folly to
+be wise.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>I fancy we are most of us tired of Constantinople.&nbsp; To me
+it is a place where a little sight-seeing goes a long way.&nbsp;
+Our gallant captain, on the contrary, tells me that he could put
+in three months here very well.&nbsp; As it is, there are about
+2,000 English here, to say nothing of naturalized Greeks and
+Maltese.&nbsp; I suppose Constantinople is not a bad place for a
+short residence.&nbsp; The hotels are good, and in some you may
+have a bedroom for four francs a day.&nbsp; Provisions are not
+dear, but house-rent is very expensive.&nbsp; The population of
+the place is dense, at which I wonder, as Constantinople seems to
+me the most unhealthy city I have ever seen.&nbsp; The only
+nuisances are the guides, who will persist in following you
+everywhere, and whose knowledge of English and of the things you
+really want to know is very limited.&nbsp; For instance, I passed
+two obelisks one day.&nbsp; I asked my guide about them.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;They come from Egypt,&rsquo; was his reply.&nbsp; I could
+have told him as much myself.</p>
+<p>If you need rest, seek it not in Constantinople, with its
+noisy crowds by day and its noisy dogs by night; seek it not in
+its narrow streets, where horses and asses and big bullocks,
+dragging along the most rickety of waggons, are ever to be seen;
+seek it not as you drive along its uneven and disgracefully-paved
+streets.&nbsp; The mosques are cool and spacious&mdash;there you
+may rest; but if there is a service, you are not permitted to
+remain unless you are a Mohammedan.&nbsp; One advantage of the
+mosques is that there is generally a large open space attached to
+them, where people can wash themselves and also hold a
+market.&nbsp; People seem to <a name="page67"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 67</span>
+<a href="images/p67b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"An old street, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle
+and Young)"
+title=
+"An old street, Constantinople.  (From a photograph by Fradelle
+and Young)"
+src="images/p67s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>do
+much as they like, as they talk and smoke and play cards, and
+indulge in coffee or lemon-and-water.&nbsp; I have never yet seen
+a drunken man or&mdash;what is worse&mdash;a drunken woman, and
+yet an English lady, a clergyman&rsquo;s wife, told me that she
+only went on shore once, and was so shocked that she resolved
+never to set foot in the place again.&nbsp; The people were so
+degraded; the poor porters were so overburdened; and, then, they
+were all such awful idolaters.&nbsp; I presume the lady knows
+nothing of parts of London where worse sights are to be seen
+every day.</p>
+<p>The Bosphorus is beautiful beyond description.&nbsp; It beats
+the Rhine, it beats the American Hudson; indeed, it is the
+grandest panorama in the world.&nbsp; At its back rise the green
+wooded hills, and the front is lined with pleasant villas and
+palaces&mdash;white or yellow, built in Turkish fashion, with
+innumerable windows everywhere.&nbsp; There must be great wealth
+in the district to build and support such places.&nbsp;
+Everywhere there is a great appearance of religion.&nbsp; Go into
+a mosque any hour you will, and you see a priest or layman
+sitting in a quiet corner, fenced with a wooden rail,
+cross-legged, repeating the Koran.&nbsp; One of the oddest sights
+I saw in the grand Mosque of St. Sophia was that of an
+old-fashioned London clock.&nbsp; One of my troubles as I
+explored the mosque&mdash;the floor of which is lined with Indian
+matting&mdash;was to keep on my Turkish slippers.&nbsp; An
+attendant who followed me had to stoop down every minute to put
+them on, that I might not reveal the deck-shoes which I wore
+inside.&nbsp; A gentleman who had visited the mosque told me that
+on one occasion, when he took off a pair of new boots there which
+he was wearing, he never saw them again.</p>
+<p><a name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>It is
+wonderful how cheap provisions are: beef, threepence a pound;
+bread, a halfpenny; grapes, a halfpenny; fowls for sevenpence;
+and mountains of melons everywhere.&nbsp; There is free
+education, and an abundant supply of schools.&nbsp; The labouring
+classes are well employed.&nbsp; The English here are chiefly
+merchants or agents or engineers.&nbsp; On our way back we pass
+that favourite resort of the Turkish holiday-makers&mdash;the
+Valley of Sweet Waters&mdash;and have a good view of the hospital
+at Scutari, built by Florence Nightingale&mdash;now utilized as
+barracks&mdash;and of the monuments in front of the cemetery in
+memory of the British officers and soldiers who died during the
+Crimean War.</p>
+<p>It is a relief to us all to get back into the Dardanelles and
+sail over the spot where Xerxes built his famous bridge, the
+narrow strait across which Leander swam nightly to visit his
+lady-love&mdash;a feat performed by our great poet Byron at a
+later age&mdash;and wander in fancy as we again catch sight of
+the plains of Troy, the spot where the Greek hero Protesilaus
+first struck the Trojan strand, and thus gave occasion to our
+Wordsworth to write his immortal poem&mdash;a poem that will be
+read and admired when all the puny poets of the present age are
+dead and forgotten.&nbsp; Out in the &AElig;gean Sea the weather
+is almost cool and delightfully refreshing, just like a fine
+morning in spring at home.&nbsp; The first isle of any importance
+we make is Tenedos, behind which, on the mainland, lies Troas,
+visited by the Apostle Paul.&nbsp; To the north lies Besika Bay,
+where once the French and English fleets assembled prior to their
+passage of the Dardanelles, and where the British fleet, under
+Admiral Hornby, lay in 1887&ndash;88 during the Russo-Turkish
+War.&nbsp; Next we reach the <a name="page70"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 70</span>ancient Lectum, the most westernly
+point of Asia, and get a glimpse of the beautiful island of
+Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos.&nbsp; Mitylene, on the east coast,
+is prettily situated, and does a considerable trade.&nbsp; There
+are few remains of the ancient city.&nbsp; The island has 115,000
+inhabitants, mostly Greeks.</p>
+<h2><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+71</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">SMYRNA.</p>
+<p>I write now from one of the most ancient cities in the
+world.&nbsp; There is a wonderful lot of ancient history in these
+parts.&nbsp; The mind quite staggers under the ever-accumulating
+load of facts and figures and legends.&nbsp; The &AElig;olians,
+who founded on this site the first Greek city, claimed it as the
+birthplace of Homer.&nbsp; It was there that his poetry
+flourished; then, under the successors of Alexander, it became
+celebrated for its schools of science and medicine.&nbsp;
+Christianity early made its way into Smyrna, which has enjoyed
+the reputation of being one of the Seven Churches of Asia alluded
+to in Revelation.&nbsp; It was there that Polycarp suffered
+martyrdom, and it is there they still show you, or profess to
+show you, his tomb.&nbsp; Defended by the Knights of Rhodes,
+Smyrna fell when Timur, the terrible Mogul, appeared before it
+and put all that breathed to the sword.&nbsp; As it was, I felt
+satisfied and charmed with modern Smyrna, and did not climb the
+hill behind on which stands the ruins of a castle, and where
+brigands still lie in wait for the unwary traveller.&nbsp; Nor
+did I take the train to Ephesus, a run of nearly two hours, to
+wander under the hot sun and amidst the <a
+name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>rough winds
+to see what remains, amidst bushes and rocks and cornfields, of
+ancient Ephesus&mdash;notwithstanding the fact that there
+Christian synods have been held, and that in a cave adjoining
+slept those marvellous Seven Sleepers; that there stood the
+temple of the goddess Diana, whose worshippers the great Apostle
+of the Gentiles woke up to cry excitedly for the craft by which
+they lived.&nbsp; It is a scene of desolation, which certainly
+does not repay the ordinary tourist the trouble of a visit.</p>
+<p>But I revelled in Smyrna&mdash;one of the brightest, cleanest,
+and most prosperous cities under Turkish sway.&nbsp; Its white
+houses, chiefly hotels and restaurants and theatres, line the
+bay, with dense shipping in the forefront, while the mountains
+behind, up the slopes of which modern Smyrna is gradually
+planting herself, act as guard and shelter.&nbsp; At the time of
+my visit there stretched across the bay quite an imposing display
+of ironclads of all nations&mdash;American, English, Italian,
+French&mdash;and it made me shudder to think of them bombarding
+this scene of life and gaiety and spreading terror amongst its
+hard-working people.&nbsp; A tramway runs along the whole front
+of the city for about a couple of miles, and, as you stand
+thinking of the wonders of modern civilization, you hear a bell
+tinkle, and see half a dozen camels laden with sacks of grain
+striding past, generally led by a man on a donkey.&nbsp;
+Sometimes the donkey had no rider, and yet the patient camel
+followed all the same.&nbsp; It was intensely amusing: the
+contrast between the little donkey leading and the big camel
+behind.&nbsp; It set me thinking of the many parallel passages in
+modern history&mdash;of parties, Churches, States, led by
+donkeys.&nbsp; Smyrna has <a name="page73"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 73</span>an enormous bazaar, into which it is
+easier to find one&rsquo;s way than to get out.&nbsp; It has fine
+mosques and handsome Greek churches.&nbsp; It shelters the ships
+and people of all nations, but my chief delight was to watch the
+string of camels as they ever came and went.&nbsp; Even in the
+narrow passages of the bazaar there were the camels, and it was
+all you could do to get out of the way of these grand animals,
+for such they were.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p73b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"The Gate of Persecution, near Ephesus.  (From a photograph by
+Fradelle and Young)"
+title=
+"The Gate of Persecution, near Ephesus.  (From a photograph by
+Fradelle and Young)"
+src="images/p73s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>One place that I visited much interested me.&nbsp; It was the
+Sailors&rsquo; Rest on the quay, a fine room with a library and
+reading-room, where the sailors come and go, and where they are
+supplied with refreshments of a non-intoxicating character,
+carried on in connection with the Greek Evangelical Alliance,
+founded in Smyrna in 1883.&nbsp; Depression in business, and
+consequent <a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+74</span>poverty and other causes, such as the declining number
+of British merchants who come to Smyrna, ousted, I presume, by
+more enterprising rivals, and troubles in the interior, have
+hindered the work, which, however, is successfully carried
+on.&nbsp; The average attendance last year was: Sunday morning
+service, 83; afternoon, 59; Tuesday prayer-meeting, 41; Gospel
+service at the Rest, 50.&nbsp; At the Sunday-school the average
+attendance has been about 60.&nbsp; Owing to the shifting
+population of Smyrna, many of the church members have become
+scattered in many lands.&nbsp; The bitterest enemies of the work
+are the members of the Orthodox Greek Church, who have no
+sympathy with an Evangelical Alliance of any kind, and care not a
+rap for the union of the Churches.&nbsp; As an illustration, take
+the following: &lsquo;In 1895 it was expected that the official
+permit for the building of a chapel on a site assigned by
+Government would be granted to the Evangelicals.&nbsp; In fact,
+in the middle of January permission was granted for the opening
+of the school, but the local authorities, desiring to avoid any
+possible outbreak on the part of &lsquo;the Orthodox,&rsquo;
+tried to bring about a friendly compromise.&nbsp; It was all in
+vain, the Orthodox declaring that they would listen to no terms
+unless the Evangelicals were entirely thrust out from the central
+quarter of the town, and that they would never allow the chapel
+to be built or the site prepared for it.&nbsp; Thus foiled, the
+Evangelicals opened their school, but &lsquo;the Orthodox&rsquo;
+attacked the building with stones, defacing it almost entirely,
+and quite destroying all the furniture within.&nbsp; The result
+was that the Evangelicals had to commence their labours anew
+elsewhere.&nbsp; After two months&rsquo; labour the ire of the <a
+name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>Orthodox was
+again aroused; they drove out the workmen, pulled down part of
+the walls, and finally remained masters of the situation.&nbsp;
+It is true that fifteen of the Orthodox were imprisoned, but the
+Evangelicals were advised to leave the situation also, and to
+remove to some other site more acceptable to their
+opponents.&nbsp; This advice the Evangelicals refused to accept,
+and, after a long delay, by the personal efforts and goodwill of
+the new Turkish Governor the building was restored.&nbsp;
+Orthodoxy seemed to be a sad stumbling-block in the way of good
+work everywhere.&nbsp; The Sailors&rsquo; Rest at Smyrna may be
+much aided by British Christians, both by presents of books or by
+pecuniary contributions.&nbsp; During the last year it seems that
+229 visits have been paid to ships, 64 bags of books sent out, 20
+pledges taken.&nbsp; I fear there is a good deal of drunkenness
+in Smyrna.&nbsp; Seven thousand six hundred visits have been made
+in the year by sailors to the Rest, 797 have attended the
+meetings, 676 Bibles, Testaments, and portions have been given
+away, and many were the letters sent home by sailors from the
+Rest.&nbsp; It seems to me that it might be kept open a little
+later at night with advantage, as I find it is the fashion to
+keep many of the drinking-shops open all night.&nbsp; The work
+among the Greeks has been reviving, and it is regarded as
+hopeful.&nbsp; The meetings are well attended, and especially so
+the Wednesday evening meeting in the Corner Room at the
+Rest.&nbsp; This meeting is described as the fishing-net of the
+Greek work, as many of those who became regular attendants at the
+other services held in the American Chapel began at the
+Rest.&nbsp; At Smyrna our American fellow-passengers hear the
+result of the Presidential <a name="page76"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 76</span>contest in America, and greatly
+rejoice.&nbsp; Their country is saved&mdash;at any rate, this
+time.&nbsp; Local lines of steamers run from Smyrna to Messina
+and Beirut, touching at all the important coast towns and at
+several of the islands, at which we have a peep, such as Cos, the
+birthplace of Hippocrates; Halicarnassus, where Herodotus was
+born, and where stood the famous mausoleum, one of the wonders of
+the world; and Rhodes, far-famed.&nbsp; But we may not tarry even
+in order to gratify such a laudable curiosity; no, not even at
+Cyprus, which has prospered so much under English rule.&nbsp; It
+is enough for us to have explored Smyrna, a city which in every
+way, as regards cleanliness in the streets and the absence of
+abominable smells, is a great improvement on
+Constantinople.&nbsp; It has a population of nearly half a
+million, of which less than one-fourth is Moslem, and more than
+half Greek.&nbsp; There are large Armenian and Jewish colonies,
+that of the Jews, of course, being the most squalid, unhealthy
+and debased.&nbsp; The town is governed by a municipality.&nbsp;
+Europeans are under the jurisdiction of their consuls.&nbsp; Its
+gas lights beamed on us brilliantly as we steamed out in the dark
+into the open sea.&nbsp; The one nuisance of Smyrna are the boys,
+who go to learn English at the schools taught by the
+missionaries, and these persistently pester you to be taken on as
+guides.&nbsp; The professional guides are nuisance enough, but
+these boys are infinitely worse.</p>
+<h2><a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+77</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.</p>
+<p>You see nothing of Jerusalem till you get inside the city, and
+to enjoy a visit requires a greater enthusiasm than any to which
+I can lay claim.&nbsp; We were safely landed at Jaffa, which by
+this time ought to have a more decent landing-place; thence,
+after a glance at the house where Simon the Tanner carried on
+business, I made my way&mdash;along tortuous roads, more or less
+blocked with stones and rubbish, and more or less exposed to a
+burning sun&mdash;to the station, whence we were to start for
+Jerusalem, a hot ride of nearly four hours in railway-carriages
+of very second-rate quality.&nbsp; The land about Jaffa is
+fertile and well cultivated; fig-trees and olive-trees and
+orange-groves are abundant, and at Jaffa the chief business
+seemed to be packing them in boxes for export.&nbsp; At one
+particular spot our conductor told us that it was there that
+Samson set the cornfields of the Philistines on fire.&nbsp;
+Certainly the ground seemed dry and baked up enough.&nbsp; Then
+Arithmea was reached.&nbsp; On our way we got our first sight of
+a native village, built of mud huts, into which it seemed
+difficult to find an entrance.&nbsp; A Kaffir village is
+infinitely to be preferred.&nbsp; The scene of desolation <a
+name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>was
+complete.&nbsp; On the neighbouring rocks nothing was to be seen
+but flocks of goats.&nbsp; A little fairer scene opened on us as
+we passed the neat German colony that has settled down here,
+almost under the shadow of the walls of Jerusalem.&nbsp; Then the
+terminus is gained, and we are whirled in a cloud of dust, in
+rickety carriages, driven by their hoarsely-shouting drivers at
+full gallop, all of us white as millers, being clothed with
+dust.&nbsp; I wash at Howard&rsquo;s Hotel, swallow a cup of tea,
+and, as we do not dine till six, make my way into Jerusalem by
+the Jaffa Gate.&nbsp; A little of Jerusalem goes a long
+way.&nbsp; It is dark and stifling, swarming with people and
+camels and asses, and noisy beyond description.&nbsp; A sort of
+Rag Fair, only with a few touches of the East, such as a veiled
+woman, or a stately Turk in turban and flowing robes, or a
+black-coated, black-bearded Greek priest, or a low row of
+shopkeepers, sitting patiently in their dark and tiny shops,
+thrown in.&nbsp; You must keep moving, or you will be run over by
+a donkey or a camel, for, as the country round Jerusalem grows
+nothing, the necessaries of life have all to be brought from a
+distance.&nbsp; My respected countrymen and countrywomen are in a
+state of gush all the while, not to be wondered at when you think
+of the Jerusalem of David, and Solomon, and Jesus Christ.&nbsp;
+As it is in reality, I own I see very little to gush about.&nbsp;
+I reach the Via Dolorosa&mdash;there is no trace of Christ there;
+I pass the Church of the Sepulchre and the mosque which marks the
+site where Solomon built his Temple.&nbsp; I think of the royal
+Psalmist who here poured forth the wailings of his heart in
+language which has formed the penitential chant of all the
+ages.&nbsp; But if I would see the Christ I must get out of this
+<a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>city, all
+crammed with lies and living upon lies.&nbsp; I muse by myself in
+the Garden of Gethsemane; I climb the Mount of Olives.&nbsp; It
+is outside the city, away from 
+<a href="images/p79b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Jerusalem: via Dolorosa and Pontius Pilate&rsquo;s House"
+title=
+"Jerusalem: via Dolorosa and Pontius Pilate&rsquo;s House"
+src="images/p79s.jpg" />
+</a>its old and new churches, that I see the living Christ and
+Calvary, and feel how true it is that</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Each soul redeemed from sin and death<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Must know its Calvary.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>I have
+had enough of Jerusalem.&nbsp; My fellow-travellers leave me to
+go to Jericho.&nbsp; I have no wish to be sent to Jericho, and
+prefer to remain under the grateful shelter of my hotel, just
+outside the Jaffa Gate.&nbsp; What strikes me most is the
+prosperity of the place.&nbsp; It is growing fast, in spite of
+Turkish rule.&nbsp; The people are robbed by the tax-collectors;
+nevertheless, the place gains, and the population outside the
+city walls is quite as great as that within.&nbsp; One reason, of
+course, is that wealthy Christians in England and America spend
+large sums of money in keeping up proselytizing establishments
+here, and in erecting fine buildings for the same end.&nbsp; Of
+course we have a Bishop here, but he is High Church, and seems,
+from all I hear, more inclined to bridge over the gulf between
+his Church and the Greek than to promote general and
+undenominational Christian work.&nbsp; The number of poor Jews is
+enormous.&nbsp; They come here from all parts of the world to die
+in the Sacred City, and have many charities established on their
+behalf.&nbsp; The Britisher has this advantage&mdash;that he pays
+no taxes.&nbsp; The Jew is not permitted to hold a bit of land
+unless he has been a resident here five years.&nbsp; The Turk
+holds Jerusalem to be a sacred city only second to Mecca.&nbsp;
+No wonder, then, that the nations have fought bitterly for the
+possession of its so-called sacred shrines; no wonder that
+Christians from all parts of the world hasten to Jerusalem, and
+that you meet in the streets and shops and hotels such a mixture
+of men and women&mdash;brought by excursion-parties from
+London&mdash;as, perhaps, you have never seen before, and,
+perchance, may wish never to see again.&nbsp; I suppose it has
+ever been so.&nbsp; Those old Crusaders must have been rather a
+mixed lot.&nbsp; As it is, <a name="page81"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 81</span>
+<a href="images/p81b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"View from St. Stephen&rsquo;s Gate, with Russian Church and
+Garden of Gethsemane"
+title=
+"View from St. Stephen&rsquo;s Gate, with Russian Church and
+Garden of Gethsemane"
+src="images/p81s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>the
+Russian Church seems most in evidence.&nbsp; It has spent,
+apparently, a great deal of money in building purposes.&nbsp; Its
+new church, half-way up the Mount of Olives, is one of the finest
+buildings to be seen outside the walls.&nbsp; The Russian is
+wily; he knows what he is about&mdash;at any rate, better than
+many of his rivals in the race for empire.</p>
+<p>I think most of my party are getting tired of
+Jerusalem&mdash;even the clergy, of whom we have many.&nbsp;
+Exertion of any kind is painful on these dusty highways and under
+this blazing sun.&nbsp; There has been no rain for six months,
+and the Jews in the synagogue are praying for it daily, and yet
+it seems as far off as ever.&nbsp; One thing that is really
+enjoyable is the cool splendour of these cloudless skies by
+night.&nbsp; I have seen the moon rise in many lands, but
+never&mdash;no, not even under the Southern Cross&mdash;a moon so
+full, so fair, so bright, as that of Jud&aelig;a, as it throws
+its silvery light over old walls and peasants&rsquo; huts, on
+hill and dale&mdash;I may not say ancient ruins, for all is new
+outside Jerusalem, and as regards most of the city a similar
+remark may be made.&nbsp; For Saracen and Roman have devastated
+and destroyed entirely the real Jerusalem, which is now only
+being disinterred by the labours of the agents of the Palestine
+Exploration Fund, of whom Dr. Bliss is the chief.</p>
+<p>The Jews preponderate everywhere, apparently poor and
+depressed.&nbsp; The real Turk, sleek and well robed, is an
+imposing figure, but the dragomans&mdash;chiefly Greeks, or of
+the Greek Church&mdash;are active and intelligent, and very ready
+to use their English, of which, apparently, they have but an
+imperfect knowledge.&nbsp; The Jews speak the common dialect of
+the country, but are <a name="page83"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 83</span>taught Hebrew in the many schools
+established for their benefit.&nbsp; The food displayed in their
+cook-shops is, however, by no means tempting, and nowhere, unless
+it be at such an international hotel as that of Chevalier Howard,
+is the commissariat department very strong.&nbsp; But we have
+clean, cool, delightful bedrooms.&nbsp; And Mr. Chevalier himself
+is a remarkably intelligent and active man, and offers the
+traveller facilities for excursions such as he can find nowhere
+else.&nbsp; When one thinks of Palestine and the place it fills
+in the world&rsquo;s history, it is hard to realize what a small
+extent of country it contains.&nbsp; Its length is about 200
+miles, and its average breadth 75 miles.&nbsp; On one side is the
+Mediterranean Sea, and on the other the desert plain of
+Arabia.&nbsp; A mountain range runs through it from north to
+south.&nbsp; Its chief rivers are the Jordan, the Litany, the
+Abana, and the Pharpar.&nbsp; I fancy it is better to come here
+in the spring than in the autumn.</p>
+<h2><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+84</span>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE HOLY CITY.</p>
+<p>The three principal sights in Jerusalem are the Mosque of
+Omar, now standing on the site of Solomon&rsquo;s Temple, the
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the Muristan, which is the
+conglomerate remains of numerous edifices raised on the same spot
+in the course of ages, from Charlemagne to Saladin, but named
+from the madhouse built there by the Knights of St. John of
+Jerusalem.&nbsp; The Church of the Holy Sepulchre should be
+visited in the sunniest part of the day, as the interior is
+awfully dark.&nbsp; It may be that it is what it assumes to
+be.&nbsp; There are people who doubt this, as they do everything;
+but here countless pilgrims in all ages have come to pray and
+weep, and have kissed every stone and shrine to be seen within
+the sacred precincts.&nbsp; I have read somewhere how a young
+lady from the country came to town to hear the immortal Siddons,
+then in the zenith of her fame.&nbsp; As soon as the performance
+began, the young lady began to weep immediately.&nbsp; &lsquo;If
+you weep in this way,&rsquo; said a gentleman to her, &lsquo;you
+will have no tears to shed when the real Siddons
+appears.&rsquo;&nbsp; The same feeling occurs to you in
+Jerusalem.&nbsp; One is never sure that <a
+name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>the people
+are wailing and weeping at the right place.&nbsp; People seem
+there so much taken up with the dead Christ that they are
+actually in danger of forgetting the living one, who speaks to us
+to-day as when He lifted up His Divine voice in the crowded
+streets of Jerusalem or beneath the proud pillars of the Temple
+itself.</p>
+<p>The question has long been discussed whether the traditional
+site on which stands the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the true
+one.&nbsp; The matter turns upon the course of the city walls in
+the time of Christ.&nbsp; All are agreed that wherever the
+sepulchre was, it was without the gate, and not within
+Jerusalem.&nbsp; From the Gospels we learn that the tomb was
+rock-hewn, and that it was nigh the place of the
+Crucifixion.&nbsp; Major Conder&rsquo;s excavations have almost
+conclusively proved that the traditional site was without the
+circuit of the city wall, and though the point cannot be
+considered as quite settled, there are very strong grounds for
+believing that the site was elsewhere.&nbsp; By the common
+consent of experts, the true site has been found a short distance
+north-east from the Damascus gate of the present city on the
+rocky knoll immediately above the Jeremiah Grotto of our Bible
+map.&nbsp; Indirectly, the so-called Jeremiah Grotto contributes
+some support to the modern identification.&nbsp; It is the spot
+where executions by stoning were carried out.&nbsp; The locality
+General Gordon brought into notice as the Holy Sepulchre seems to
+be quite unfounded.&nbsp; Major Conder points out that the tomb
+was no new discovery when the General was in Jerusalem&mdash;that
+it is probably not a Jewish tomb at all, and may be assigned to
+the middle ages.</p>
+<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>It is a
+wonderful city, this old Jerusalem.&nbsp; It was here Solomon
+built his Temple a thousand years before Christ.&nbsp; This
+structure was subsequently destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, rebuilt
+by Zorobabel, and afterwards by Herod.&nbsp; Then came Titus and
+the Romans, who left the city a desolation.&nbsp; Of all its
+stateliness&mdash;the populous streets, the palaces of the kings,
+the fortresses of her warriors&mdash;not a ruin remains, except
+three tall towers and part of the western wall, which was left
+for the defence of the Roman camp.&nbsp; From a Roman point of
+view, Titus had well earned the honour of a triumph.</p>
+<p>Of course in this connection one falls back on Gibbon:
+&lsquo;In the midst of a rocky and barren country the walls of
+Jerusalem inclosed the two mountains of Sion and Acra within an
+oval figure of about three miles.&nbsp; Towards the south the
+upper town and the fortress of David were erected on the lofty
+ascent of Mount Zion; on the north side the buildings of the
+lower town covered the spacious summit of Mount Acra, and a part
+of the hill distinguished by the name of Moriah, and levelled by
+human industry, was crowned with the stately temple of the Jewish
+nation.&nbsp; After the final destruction of the temple by the
+arms of Titus and Hadrian a ploughshare was drawn over the
+consecrated ground, as a sign of perpetual interdiction.&nbsp;
+Sion was deserted, and the vacant space of the lower city was
+filled with the public and private edifices which spread
+themselves over the adjacent hill of Calvary.&nbsp; The holy
+places were polluted with monuments of idolatry; and, either from
+design or accident, a chapel was dedicated to Venus on the spot
+which had been sanctified by the death and resurrection <a
+name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>of
+Christ.&nbsp; Almost 300 years after these stupendous events the
+profane chapel of Venus was demolished by the order of
+Constantine, and the removal of the earth and stone revealed the
+Holy Sepulchre to the eyes of mankind.&nbsp; A magnificent church
+was erected on that mystic ground by the first Christian emperor;
+and the effects of his pious munificence were extended to every
+spot which had been consecrated by the footsteps of patriarchs
+and prophets and the Son of God.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Admirably Gibbon puts the case.&nbsp; Nevertheless, from that
+praiseworthy zeal on the part of Constantine, innumerable woes
+and awful demoralization have ensued.&nbsp; The history of
+Jerusalem has been dark and dolorous ever since.&nbsp; The
+priests reaped a golden harvest, and found a believing generation
+ever ready to accept even the most marvellous of their
+statements, the Empress Helena leading the way.&nbsp; The clergy
+made the most of these devout pilgrimages, and exhibited their
+powers of invention on an enormous scale.&nbsp; The more the
+pilgrims demanded, the greater the supply.&nbsp; The clergy fixed
+the scene of each memorable event.&nbsp; They exhibited the
+instruments which had been used in the passion of Christ: the
+nails and the lance that had pierced His hands, His feet, and His
+side; the crown of thorns that was planted on His head; the
+pillar at which he was scourged; and, above all, they showed the
+cross on which He had suffered&mdash;dug miraculously out of the
+ground!&nbsp; It seems to us impossible that the credulity of
+people could ever have been so great; but, alas! there are no
+miracles or traditions which devoted men and women are unable to
+swallow.&nbsp; Such miracles as seemed necessary found ample
+credence.</p>
+<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+88</span>&lsquo;The custody of the <i>true cross</i>, which on
+Easter Tuesday,&rsquo; writes Gibbon, &lsquo;was solemnly exposed
+to the people, was intrusted to the Bishop of Jerusalem; and he
+alone might gratify the curious devotion of the pilgrims by the
+gift of small pieces, which they enchased in gold or gems, and
+carried away in triumph to their respective countries.&nbsp; But
+as this gainful branch of commerce must soon have been
+annihilated, it was found convenient to suppose that the
+marvellous wood possessed a secret power of vegetation, and that
+its substance, though continually diminished, still remained
+entire and unimpaired.&rsquo;&nbsp; That is enough.&nbsp; It is
+unnecessary to carry our investigations any further.&nbsp; The
+only relics in which I could believe were the spurs of that grand
+old crusader, Godfrey of Bouillon.&nbsp; In that city of
+pretended sanctity, with its doubtful hallowed ground, it does
+one good to think of Campbell&rsquo;s vigorous lines, never more
+applicable than now:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;To incantations dost thou trust,<br />
+And pompous rites in domes august?<br />
+See, mouldering stone and metal&rsquo;s rust<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Belie the vaunt<br />
+That man can bless one pile of dust<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; With chime or chaunt.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Be that as it may, all steps in Jerusalem are dogged with
+doubt.&nbsp; You hear a great deal more than you can
+believe.&nbsp; We tread on ruins and know what they are,&mdash;so
+far we can believe their testimony.&nbsp; Yet the city is full of
+surpassing interest.&nbsp; &lsquo;After Rome,&rsquo; writes Dr.
+Russell Forbes, in his valuable little work, &lsquo;The Holy
+City: its Topography, Walls, and Temples,&rsquo; &lsquo;there is
+no city which appeals to the feelings like Jerusalem; the
+sympathy is deeper and stronger than that of Athens, which we
+place third on the list.&nbsp; As <a name="page89"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 89</span>the sympathy towards the Eternal City
+is derived from profane history, so as it were in opposition,
+one&rsquo;s feelings toward the Holy City owe their origin to
+sacred history.&nbsp; These two cities, sacred and profane, stand
+out boldly on the world&rsquo;s surface like the figures in
+Titian&rsquo;s celebrated picture&mdash;one appealing to the sun,
+the other to the wind.&nbsp; The sacred is more ancient than the
+profane, and the wind of controversy has swept equally over both,
+while the spade of modern science has in each case confounded the
+sceptic and established the truth of the unbroken records of the
+past.&rsquo;&nbsp; That is putting the case rather
+strongly.&nbsp; At any rate, in studying the topography of
+Ancient Rome the authorities are many.&nbsp; In Jerusalem they
+are few&mdash;but the Bible, Josephus and the Talmud.&nbsp; It is
+only of late that we got at the real Jerusalem.&nbsp; It was not
+till explorations, surveys, and excavations were made that
+anything beyond tradition, mostly false, was known of the ancient
+city.&nbsp; It is below its modern level that one has to trace
+the remains of the real Jerusalem.&nbsp; As Byron wrote of Rome,
+so we may say of the Holy City:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;The Goth, the Christian,
+time, war, flood, and fire<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Have dealt upon the seven-hilled city&rsquo;s
+pride.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; She saw her glories star by star expire,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; And up the steep barbarian monarchs ride,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Where the car climbed the Capitol; far and wide,<br
+/>
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Temple and tower went down, nor left a site:<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Chaos of ruins! who shall trace the void,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; O&rsquo;er the dim fragments cast a lunar light,<br
+/>
+And say, &ldquo;Here was, or is,&rdquo; where all is doubly
+night?&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It was not till 1868 that the time arrived for cheap
+excursions to Jerusalem.&nbsp; The credit of the idea is to be
+given to the late Mr. Thomas Cook.&nbsp; In the time of the
+Crusades the bands which visited Palestine did so <a
+name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>under a
+leader.&nbsp; At a later date parties travelled in the form of a
+caravan.&nbsp; Before visiting the lands of the Bible Mr. Cook
+consulted that eminent traveller and at one time popular author
+and lecturer, Mr. James Silk Buckingham, as to the best
+route,&mdash;and collected information from every available
+quarter.&nbsp; Then he made the trip by himself in 1868.&nbsp; On
+his return home he advertised a tour in Palestine and the Nile in
+the following spring.&nbsp; Before a month had elapsed thirty-two
+ladies and gentlemen had taken tickets for the trip to the Nile
+and Palestine, and thirty to Palestine only; and now they come by
+the hundred at a time, so popular is the trip.&nbsp; From the
+year 1868 up to 1891, 1,200 persons had visited Palestine under
+Cook&rsquo;s protection.&nbsp; Many of these travellers held high
+social positions, such as their Royal Highnesses the Duke of
+Edinburgh, the Duke of Clarence and Avondale, Prince George of
+Wales; their Imperial Highnesses the Grand Duke and Duchess
+Sergius, the Grand Duke Paul of Russia, the King of Servia, and
+other travellers of distinction.&nbsp; It is a part of the
+business of the firm much patronized by American tourists and the
+clergy of all denominations.&nbsp; Up to the time of the firm
+taking up the matter, travellers were at the mercy of savage
+chiefs, who made them pay dearly for the permission which they
+granted to pass through their districts.&nbsp; These chiefs were
+as fickle as they were avaricious, and as dilatory as they were
+exacting.&nbsp; All this vexatious delay has vanished.&nbsp; When
+you start you are certain of arrival at the day indicated, and of
+being able to return in a similar manner.&nbsp; Moreover, the
+element of danger has been eliminated.&nbsp; You are safe in
+Jerusalem as in London&mdash;perhaps safer; for as <a
+name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>there is
+always danger in the streets of London from hardened criminals
+and careless drivers of cabs and omnibuses, and the
+ever-increasing multitude of men and women who have taken to the
+bicycle&mdash;and &lsquo;rush in where angels fear to
+tread.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Finally, after Omar and Saladin, Syria and Palestine were
+conquered by Selim, and since then, with the slight advent of the
+Crusaders, have formed part of the Turkish Empire.&nbsp; The
+inhabitants complain a good deal of the injustice and corruption
+of the Turkish tax-gatherers, and I fancy not without reason; but
+that the city is prosperous and flourishing now is evident to the
+most superficial observer, from the number of new buildings
+erected in every direction.&nbsp; I believe it is a fact that the
+number of people living outside the city is far greater than the
+population within.&nbsp; It is a fashion to build schools and
+churches and convents everywhere, Russia in this respect standing
+ahead of the rest.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t care to go into the
+city.&nbsp; What I see there is all fiction, hallowed, if you
+like, by the superstition of ages.&nbsp; In the daytime all is
+noise and confusion.&nbsp; The trader sits in his little shop in
+a narrow street, covered from the sun, and there the people
+collect in every variety of costume&mdash;some in rags and almost
+naked; others, like the cavass of some consulate, in a dark,
+showy dress, with a grand sword hanging from his thigh; but the
+prevailing fashion seems to be a brown or blue jacket hanging
+over a print skirt extending down to the feet.&nbsp; Some are
+almost as black as niggers.</p>
+<p>Immense as is the traffic of the city and the noise and tumult
+by day, the silence by night is equally wonderful.&nbsp; There is
+no living soul or body to be seen in the streets by
+night&mdash;nor a light; not even the bark <a
+name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>of a dog is
+heard.&nbsp; There is scarce a street in which you can walk
+comfortably either inside Jerusalem or outside.&nbsp; There are
+stones everywhere to throw you down, and then there is the
+dust.&nbsp; That deserves a chapter in itself.&nbsp; It is simply
+awful.&nbsp; There is a cartload of it inside me now.&nbsp; It is
+white as snow; it fills the air; you can see nothing.&nbsp; As we
+got out of the railway-station, and got into carriages to drive
+towards the hotel, we could not see an inch of the way on account
+of the dust.&nbsp; To make it worse, the drivers all set out at
+full speed, and in the race to get in first it seemed to me that
+a collision was inevitable; however, happily, no casualty
+occurred.&nbsp; A poor unfortunate donkey was run over&mdash;that
+was all.</p>
+<p>As an illustration of what the natives have to suffer under
+Turkish rule, let me give the following account of a gossip with
+a driver I met with.&nbsp; His father had died and left him a
+little property in the fertile plain of Sharon.&nbsp; The man did
+all he could to improve it&mdash;fenced it with stones, dug it
+over and enriched the soil, planted olive-trees and dates, and
+then, when the crop was nearly ready, the Turkish taxpayer came
+and demanded a third of the estimated value, and got it.&nbsp; In
+a fortnight after he was visited by the Bedouins, who took
+another third, and in the end the poor man had to give up his
+little farm.&nbsp; The Turks are bad, but the lawless Bedouins
+who harry the land are infinitely worse.&nbsp; For instance, one
+of our party drove down to Jericho by himself.&nbsp; He got out
+to walk in one part of the road, and got ahead of his
+driver.&nbsp; Immediately he found himself surrounded by a crew
+of these ruffians.&nbsp; Happily, he had with him the American
+Consul&rsquo;s cavass, who, seeing the position, came up with his
+<a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>
+<a href="images/p93b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"General view of Jerusalem from the Convent of the Sisters of
+Zion"
+title=
+"General view of Jerusalem from the Convent of the Sisters of
+Zion"
+src="images/p93s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 94</span>loaded
+revolver, at the sight of which the gentleman was rescued, as the
+rascals fled.&nbsp; There is no taming the Bedouin of the
+desert.&nbsp; He only owns the rule of his sheikh.&nbsp; The
+Turkish ruler of the province is afraid of him, and actually pays
+him a tribute to be allowed to send his yearly offering to
+Mecca.&nbsp; No wonder the land is bare of life.&nbsp; It is a
+wonder that there is any cultivation at all.&nbsp; The people are
+forced to live in villages, remote from one another, and there
+they defend themselves against the enemy as best they can.&nbsp;
+You see nowhere a farmhouse, a cottage, or country house.&nbsp;
+For miles and miles not a human habitation is visible.</p>
+<p>As most of us are sitting half asleep in the smoking-room
+after our mid-day meal, a wailing sound reaches my ears.&nbsp; I
+rush to the window and see a funeral procession.&nbsp; Someone
+has died in one of the houses above us, and they are bearing the
+dead body into the city for burial.&nbsp; About 100 men and women
+follow, wailing as they go, while on each side of the
+coffin&mdash;a very unsightly structure borne on a rude
+bier&mdash;walk the black-robed priests, evidently of the Greek
+Church.&nbsp; The sight is not particularly imposing as the
+procession makes its way, while the world goes on selling and
+buying much as usual.&nbsp; I pity the poor mourners and the
+priests as they move slowly along.&nbsp; I know not, but perhaps
+the presence of so many priests may indicate that the deceased
+was a person of some consequence in his community.</p>
+<p>I resume my writing, and then a native comes in to rub off the
+white dust which has come in through the open window.&nbsp; It is
+impossible to keep out the fine white dust, and all day the flies
+are equally troublesome.&nbsp; <a name="page95"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 95</span>I hear of some of the ladies being
+bitten by the mosquitoes, but the latter, happily, leave me
+alone.&nbsp; The courteous manners of the dragomans who fill the
+hall of the hotel are amusing.&nbsp; All of them seem much
+interested as to my health, and anxiously inquire how I
+slept.&nbsp; As I write, Mr. Howard&rsquo;s nephew is arranging
+the papers in the smoking-room; a native enters, who kisses the
+back of his hand with effusion&mdash;a 
+<a href="images/p95b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"The Church of the Holy Sepulchre"
+title=
+"The Church of the Holy Sepulchre"
+src="images/p95s.jpg" />
+</a>pledge, I learn, of faithful service.&nbsp; As to the people
+in general, they seem to be mere drudges and to have little idea
+of amusement; amusement in the Holy City is not tolerated.&nbsp;
+Now and then you see in the narrow, darkened streets a few
+sitting round a hookah, enjoying a quiet smoke, but the people,
+dressed out in all the colours of the rainbow, plod up and down
+wearily in a never-ending stream, in pursuance of their daily <a
+name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>tasks.&nbsp;
+A good deal of building is going on outside the city walls.&nbsp;
+There is no scaffolding, no hodman with bricks and mortar; the
+solid stone walls seem to grow up in the most hopeless
+confusion.&nbsp; Of course you see no decent carriages.&nbsp;
+Around the door of the hotel there is a daily collection of
+donkeys and horses and carriages, the last all white with dust
+and of the most rickety character.&nbsp; One would think they
+would fall to pieces over the bad roads, almost as bad as those
+of Constantinople; but I hear of no accident, though it seems as
+you watch the flying crowd that one may occur at any moment.</p>
+<p>As I chat with my dragoman, I ask him if he is married.&nbsp;
+His reply is that he cannot afford it; it would cost him
+&pound;60 to get a wife.&nbsp; Perhaps it were as well that the
+cost of a wife in England were as much; we might have fewer
+marriages of the kind that tend to misery and want.&nbsp; The
+servants in the hotel seemed remarkably honest.&nbsp; There was a
+lock to my door, but I could not get it to act, so my room
+remained unlocked, and I missed nothing, even when one morning I
+left my purse on the table, containing all my money, when I went
+to breakfast.&nbsp; A breakfast consists of hot rolls, good
+coffee, and delicious honey.&nbsp; At lunch the first course
+consists of olives, radishes, lemons and vegetables, which are
+supposed to create an appetite.&nbsp; At dinner we have a
+wonderful lot of stewed flesh, and vegetables are often served up
+as a separate course.&nbsp; In the evening the hall is lighted up
+with many lamps, and the dealers come and turn it into a
+bazaar.&nbsp; They are not above making a considerable
+reduction.&nbsp; But really there is very little manufactured in
+Jerusalem&mdash;the Sacred City.&nbsp; Oh, how I loathe the term
+as I <a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>tread
+the church of the reputed Holy Sepulchre&mdash;its stones
+slippery with the tread of millions of pilgrims in all ages, its
+sacred shrines worn away by the kisses of the faithful.&nbsp; As
+I sit outside, a cripple comes to a pillar of the door, on which
+a cross has been rudely carved.&nbsp; He kisses that cross and
+stands there praying.&nbsp; Those poor devotees&mdash;how they
+kiss, and kneel, and crawl, and pray!</p>
+<p>The most interesting man I have seen is the Rev. Ben
+Oliel.&nbsp; Born in Morocco in 1826, a man wonderfully active
+for his years, you would not take him to be more than sixty at
+the best.&nbsp; At Tangiers he attended the Rabbinical schools,
+learning Spanish at home, Arabic out of doors, and Hebrew and
+Chaldee at school.&nbsp; He speaks English with great readiness
+and fluency.&nbsp; When eighteen years of age he read the New
+Testament for the first time, but his father took it away from
+him&mdash;however, not before a spirit of inquiry was raised in
+his mind.&nbsp; In 1847, while visiting at Gibraltar, he became
+acquainted with a Christian friend, who gave him the
+&lsquo;Pilgrim&rsquo;s Progress&rsquo; and &lsquo;Keith on
+Prophecy&rsquo; to read.&nbsp; From them he learnt that Jesus was
+the Messiah and the Saviour of men.&nbsp; He then resolved to
+come to England to prepare to preach the Gospel to the
+Jews.&nbsp; The committee of the Society for the Promotion of
+Christianity among the Jews accepted his services, and sent him
+to labour in Gibraltar and North Africa.&nbsp; During a visit to
+England in 1850 he translated the Gospel of St. Luke into
+Hebrew-Spanish, and also a number of tracts into Hebrew and
+Spanish.&nbsp; In 1852 he was ordained to the ministry in Orange
+Street Chapel, London, by twelve ministers representing
+Presbyterian, Congregational, <a name="page98"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 98</span>Baptist, and Lutheran Churches.&nbsp;
+Shortly after he was recognised by the Presbytery of Edinburgh as
+a minister, and ordained a missionary of that church, and was
+sent to Thessalonica and Smyrna, where he established
+missions.&nbsp; Later on his old society&mdash;the
+British&mdash;sent him to Algiers, when he succeeded in inducing
+his relatives to become Christians, who are now usefully employed
+in Christian work.&nbsp; Mr. Ben Oliel has been twice
+married&mdash;first to a daughter of Rev. B. Lewis, a Baptist
+minister of London, and then, after a widowerhood of some years,
+to a sister of Mr. Seeley, Vicar of Clacton-on-Sea, and a cousin
+of Professor Seeley, author of &lsquo;Ecce Homo.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>We next find him in Spain.&nbsp; In Cadiz he laboured with
+much success, sometimes having a congregation of 1,000
+hearers.&nbsp; He opened schools for both sexes, where he had as
+many as 360 children.&nbsp; His success provoked the animosity
+and opposition of the Romish priests, who started a newspaper to
+put him down.&nbsp; Thence, for reasons perfectly satisfactory,
+he returned to his old scene of labour in Algeria, and commenced
+a very successful mission at Oran.&nbsp; From Oran he was sent to
+Rome to labour among the Jews, and then the question was put to
+him&mdash;would he go to Jerusalem?&nbsp; To this question there
+could be only one, and that an affirmative, reply.&nbsp; In the
+ancient city he is certainly the right man in the right
+place.&nbsp; In the first place, he can converse in Hebrew with
+learned Jews and Rabbis, with whom the city is full.&nbsp; It is
+a curious fact that Hebrew is fast becoming a living tongue in
+Jerusalem, as is evident from the fact that the only newspapers
+now published in Palestine are two weeklies in Jerusalem, both in
+the Hebrew tongue.&nbsp; Another <a name="page99"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 99</span>advantage Mr. Ben Oliel possesses is
+that he can talk to the Sephardim Spanish Jews in their own
+dialect; and they, it seems, are the most ancient in the city and
+the most easy of access; and then, again, as an
+undenominationalist, he has provided an upper room, where he
+holds an English service on a Sunday, sometimes attended by as
+many as 100 English-speaking travellers from all parts of the
+world.&nbsp; His work is now entirely supported by friends,
+especially Americans, who sympathize in his aim.&nbsp; He has no
+great society at his back; he fights on his own behalf, in faith
+that the supplies when needed will come.&nbsp; In his work he is
+greatly aided by his devoted wife and daughter, who have
+established schools&mdash;one of them a sewing-class of girls, to
+which I paid a visit.</p>
+<p>In his schools Mr. Oliel met with great opposition from the
+Jewish Rabbis.&nbsp; They held a conference on the subject.&nbsp;
+The outcome of their conference was seen the following
+Saturday.&nbsp; Great and solemn warning was preached in every
+synagogue at morning prayer to the Jews not to continue going to
+the Christians, and earnest pleading with them to put an end to
+this sin in Israel.&nbsp; On the doors of all synagogues, inside
+and outside town, were placards, some of which were handed to
+individuals.&nbsp; Here is a translation of one:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Inasmuch as we hear that two schools of the
+English have been opened, one inside and the other outside the
+town, and women, sons and daughters of the Israelite people are
+going to them, and according to the information that reaches us
+they are stumbling in the sin of idolatry, for above all they are
+required to <a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+100</span>believe in their religion, as their conditions, as it
+is heard; we heard and our bowels trembled, how can it be that
+because of straits we should forsake our faith, God forbid, and
+believe in the sin of idolatry, and the end will be that in a
+short time they will abandon the Holy Law and turn to the law of
+the Protestants, God forbid, whose whole interest is to tempt and
+push precious souls of Israel and bring them to their faith,
+thereupon they are told in the name of the <i>First in Zion</i>,
+and in the name of the exalted Rabbis, even <i>all the fathers of
+the House of Judges</i>, <i>the righteous</i>, and in the name of
+all the Rabbis, that from this day forward, after we have given
+them to understand the heavy forbidden thing they are
+doing&mdash;certain that Israel are holy&mdash;they should
+withdraw and not go to those places, neither women nor young men,
+nor girls or little children at all, and let them trust in the
+Blessed be His Name, who feeds and nourishes all, and to whom is
+the power and the greatness, and let them not think for a moment
+of benefit, whose end is bitter like poison of losing their
+Judaism, God forbid; and no benefit will they derive from those
+cents, and keep this exhortation before their eyes continually
+all the days; and in eight days from to-day those schools will be
+found empty, that no Jew&rsquo;s foot shall tread in them any
+more, which we shall hear and rejoice, and if, which God forbid,
+that time arriving and any still continue to go, let them know
+assuredly that as they sought to separate themselves from the
+community of the people of Israel, we also therefore will
+endeavour with all our strength to separate from them.&nbsp; If
+sons are born to them, there will be no one to circumcise them,
+if any get married, there will be no one to give the nuptial
+blessings.&nbsp; If <a name="page101"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 101</span>any die, they will not be buried
+with the Jews.&nbsp; The women will not be married to Jews.&nbsp;
+To young men no Jewesses will be given.&nbsp; They will be a
+separate people.&nbsp; We trust that from this day forward they
+will withdraw from the said schools, and despise them as unclean,
+and will not go near their doors; and will have trust in God,
+exalted be His Name, preferring to starve to death as Jews, and
+not arrive to this measure [of punishment].&nbsp; And let them
+not suppose that we shall be silent, but we shall persecute them
+to the bitter end as far as our hands can reach.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">&lsquo;Blessing to those who
+obey.&rsquo;<br />
+Seal of the Chief Rabbi.</p>
+<p>Seal of the Judges.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Considering that the Rabbis have considerable sums of money
+sent them from abroad to distribute among the poor every month,
+and that many houses are given to the worthy penniless free of
+rent for several years, it is no wonder that the parents of the
+little ones were afraid to disobey their tyrannic rulers, and
+kept their children away from the school.</p>
+<p>I find the Y.M.C.A. have a branch here, founded by Mr. Hind
+Smith in 1890, and are doing useful work, and just outside the
+Jaffa Gate is a depot for the sale of Bibles.&nbsp; But I have
+been somewhat astonished at the bitter, exclusive spirit
+displayed in some quarters where I might have hoped for better
+things.&nbsp; It is difficult for a Jew to make a profession of
+Christianity.&nbsp; If he does so, he has to leave the place at
+once.&nbsp; The strong caste spirit among the Jews is also very
+great.&nbsp; The high caste will not associate with the men of a
+lower caste.&nbsp; But where people dare not go to the <a
+name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>recognised
+agencies for Jewish conversion, many come to Mr. Oliel for a
+chat, and Turks as well.&nbsp; Such missionary work as he does
+seems to be of the right stamp and worthy of British
+support.&nbsp; An increasing interest is being taken in
+Jerusalem, though, alas! I cannot say with the Psalmist,
+&lsquo;Thy servants take pleasure in her stones and favour the
+dust thereof.&rsquo;&nbsp; They are my stumbling-block by night
+and day.</p>
+<h2><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+103</span>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">BETHLEHEM.</p>
+<p>The one spot in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem which one must
+visit is Bethlehem, the birthplace of the Christ, the music of
+whose voice and the lustre of whose life have brightened and
+bettered all the ages, dark and dreary as many of them have been,
+ever since.&nbsp; It is difficult to visit such a place alone; it
+is impossible to visit it in company with a garrulous and
+credulous crowd.&nbsp; I had for companions an esteemed clergyman
+from Leeds and an Oxford scholar, a man of infinite learning and
+wit.&nbsp; There had been rain overnight, and the dust was not so
+much of a nuisance as it generally is, and, besides, we had a
+refreshing breeze.&nbsp; We did the whole trip between breakfast
+and lunch.&nbsp; Starting in one of the shabby-looking
+carriages&mdash;the only available vehicle in these parts, which
+one expects to break down every minute&mdash;drawn by a couple of
+half-starved steeds, it rattled along over the stones at a speed
+for which one was scarcely prepared.&nbsp; On my way I learned a
+fact that I may not have mentioned before&mdash;viz., that at
+Constantinople the Sultan had given special orders for the
+comfort of the excursionists arriving in the <i>Midnight Sun</i>
+by placing a guard of soldiers around <a name="page104"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 104</span>the ship to keep off the crowd, and
+by giving special orders that the party were to be everywhere
+received with courtesy and respect.&nbsp; As regards myself,
+seeing that not very long since the Sultan had ordered one of my
+books to be burnt, I must own that I felt his conduct in this
+matter to redound very much to his credit.</p>
+<p>We leave our hotel by the road running to the right from
+outside the Jaffa Gate, and admire very much the long range of
+neat almshouses built for the poor Jews by the late Sir Moses
+Montefiore, leaving the Hill of Evil Counsel to the left, and the
+pretty, red-roofed, clean-looking village inhabited by the German
+Templars&rsquo; community to the right.&nbsp; Then the road
+passes by the Valley of Rephaim on the right, where David fought
+twice with the Philistines and conquered them, the signal for the
+battle the second time being given by a &lsquo;going in the tops
+of the mulberry-trees,&rsquo; which betokened the presence of the
+Lord.&nbsp; A round stone on the left denotes the well in which,
+when quenching their thirst, the Wise Men from the East beheld
+once more reflected in its waters, to their &lsquo;exceeding
+great joy,&rsquo; the star which led them in search of the
+new-born King of the Jews.&nbsp; On our left is the convent of
+Mar Elias, now occupied by a brotherhood belonging to the Greek
+Church.&nbsp; Far off on our right is Giloh, white and glittering
+in the sun, where dwelt Ahithophel, the Gilonite, David&rsquo;s
+counsellor.&nbsp; It is now a village inhabited exclusively by
+Christians.</p>
+<p>Again, on our right, we come to Rachel&rsquo;s Tomb, at a
+point where the great highroad to Hebron is left for the road to
+Bethlehem.&nbsp; There is no dispute as to the identity of
+Rachel&rsquo;s tomb; at any rate, for ages the <a
+name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>same legend
+has been connected with the spot.&nbsp; For hundreds of years the
+site was marked by a pyramid of twelve stones, placed there for
+the twelve tribes of Israel.&nbsp; The present monument, built by
+the Moslems, is white&mdash;as every building is in this part of
+the world&mdash;an oblong erection, with a small dome on the
+top.&nbsp; One of my learned friends points to the whiteness of 
+<a href="images/p105b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Bethlehem.  (From a Photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+title=
+"Bethlehem.  (From a Photograph by Fradelle and Young)"
+src="images/p105s.jpg" />
+</a>the limestone which lines all the roads, and which is
+utilized in all the buildings, whether private or public, as an
+illustration of the falsehood of the legend connected with the
+home of Our Lady of Loretto, which, according to monkish legend,
+flew all the way from Palestine to Italy, where yet it
+remains.&nbsp; The stone of that building is red, a significant
+proof of the falsehood of the tale.&nbsp; The next point of
+interest is David&rsquo;s Well, <a name="page106"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 106</span>in commemoration of the incident
+recorded in Samuel, when the Philistines being in possession of
+the town, and David in a hold in or near Cave Adullam, he said:
+&lsquo;Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well
+of Bethlehem, which is by the gate!&nbsp; And the three mighty
+men brake through the host of the Philistines, and drew water out
+of the well of Bethlehem, which was by the gate, and took it and
+brought it to David; nevertheless, he would not drink thereof,
+but poured it out unto the Lord.&nbsp; And he said . . .&nbsp; Is
+not this the blood of the men that went in jeopardy of their
+lives?&rsquo;</p>
+<p>And now I am in Bethlehem&mdash;not a simple country village,
+as many imagine, but a densely-populated town, with winding,
+narrow ways, where men and women and children, camels, donkeys,
+and carriages, seem mixed up in wild disorder.&nbsp; On every
+side we are shut in with habitations&mdash;stony, bare of
+windows, built high up, with here and there a shop, but chiefly
+with a simple door on the ground-floor; and then we dash into the
+market-place, and apparently it is market-day, and half of the
+open space is filled with buyers and sellers in many-coloured
+garments of the East; and down on us come the guides and small
+pedlars, shrieking, ejaculating, spluttering in broken English,
+just as Byron tells us the Assyrian came down like the wolf on
+the fold.</p>
+<p>We enter the Church of the Nativity, regarded as the very
+oldest specimen of Christian architecture; and a very ugly
+building it is.&nbsp; In one of the remote quarters I came to an
+old stone font, bearing the inscription: &lsquo;For the memory,
+repose and forgiveness of sinners, of whom the Lord knows the
+name.&rsquo;&nbsp; Here, <a name="page107"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 107</span>in 1161, Baldwin was crowned King of
+Jerusalem.&nbsp; Look up at the roof as you pass along, of pure
+wood and lead, furnished in 1482 by Edward IV. of England and
+Philip of Burgundy.&nbsp; The guardianship of the church is
+divided among Greeks, Armenians, and Latins.&nbsp; We are
+supplied with tapers, and go down in the cave where the Christ
+was born.&nbsp; A little further on is the place of the manger in
+which He was laid.&nbsp; In another section of the cave, all hewn
+out of the solid rock, Joseph is said to have slept when he was
+warned by God in a dream to take Mary and her child and fly into
+Egypt.&nbsp; Again, we are shown the spot where the children
+massacred by King Herod were interred.&nbsp; Fifteen lamps
+perpetually illuminate the subterranean Church of the Nativity,
+near which is the Altar of the Adoration, which commemorates the
+visit of the Magi.&nbsp; Amidst darkness visible we make our way
+to the cave in which St. Jerome wrote his great work, the
+translation of the Hebrew Bible into the Vulgate or Latin
+tongue.&nbsp; It is a dark and dreary spot, and near by we are
+shown his tomb.&nbsp; One can scarce credit the story of his
+having done such work in such a corner, or believe that there he
+lived to reach the ripe age of ninety-two.&nbsp; A year in such a
+spot would be enough to kill an ordinary orthodox Christian in
+these degenerate days.&nbsp; I make my exit speedily into the
+upper air.&nbsp; I have seen enough for one day; no lying legend
+can tempt me further.&nbsp; The enormous pile of churches built
+up over the sacred sites, and inhabited by priests of rival
+Churches, who hate each other like poison, are too much for
+me.</p>
+<p>Bethlehem is the market-place of the Dead Sea Bedouins, and
+also of the numerous small towns and <a name="page108"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 108</span>villages in the vicinity, and has
+besides some nourishing manufactures of its own.&nbsp; Its
+inhabitants are almost exclusively Christian.&nbsp; The people
+are chiefly employed in the production of embroidered dresses,
+and in carving in a beautiful way mother-of-pearl.&nbsp; I hear
+that they are an intelligent and industrious people, and that
+there are plenty of schools for the children.&nbsp; The women are
+said to be fair, but I see none such.&nbsp; On our way back we
+are shown the Field of the Shepherds, sloping up a neighbouring
+hill.&nbsp; It was there the angel of the Lord appeared to them
+as they watched their sheep by night.&nbsp; We pass by also the
+Pools of Solomon&mdash;three reservoirs made by the great King
+for supplying the inhabitants of Jerusalem with water.&nbsp; All
+the country round is a scene of great activity, as is evident
+from the enormous amount of terraces to be seen everywhere
+planted with the universal olive-tree.&nbsp; But at this time we
+see nothing but stones, with here and there a few black goats
+climbing the mountain-sides; all life seems to have withered up
+under the scorching sun.&nbsp; The Wells of Solomon contain no
+water, the hills no sign of vegetation.&nbsp; They are dry, and
+so are we.</p>
+<p>On the whole, after my visit to Bethlehem, I quite agree with
+an American writer&mdash;the Rev. Mr. Tompkins&mdash;in his
+remarks on the church built by the Empress Helena.&nbsp; While
+vast, imposing, and suggestive of past glory, it is a fitting
+monument of that kind of Christianity which, let us hope, is
+relegated to the past.&nbsp; No instance of an enormous expensive
+building could show more clearly the folly of erecting to God
+that which has no earthly use.&nbsp; Unless men can see in future
+ages that Christianity is for man, and not for <a
+name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>God, I
+fancy that religion will perish from the earth.&nbsp; To-day one
+stands in this edifice, which in point of size is justly
+comparable with any church in the world, and wonders what rash
+folly ever possessed the Empress to waste so much money.&nbsp; It
+is so dreary, so cold, so deserted, so utterly the shell of
+Christianity, that Christianity seems a very farce right here
+where it began.</p>
+<h2><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+110</span>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE JEW IN JERUSALEM.</p>
+<p>One of the most interesting evenings I spent in Jerusalem was
+in listening to a lecture by Dr. Wheeler, of the English Hospital
+in the city, who is now seeking to build a hospital for the Jews
+there.&nbsp; He is also, I believe, connected with the London
+Society which is seeking to bring over the Jew to the knowledge
+of the Messiah, a task by no means easy, as the conviction of the
+Jew&mdash;that the promised Messiah is yet to come&mdash;is not
+easily to be dispelled.&nbsp; I came over with a converted
+Jew&mdash;a clergyman in London.&nbsp; His parents, who were
+wealthy, lived in Jerusalem.&nbsp; In order to become a Christian
+he had to sacrifice all his worldly prospects, and aroused such
+bitter enmity on the part of his relatives that, though he had
+made the journey for the sake of seeing his dying mother, he
+almost despaired of an interview, and had to wait five days
+before his object was achieved.</p>
+<p>But to return to Dr. Wheeler.&nbsp; He has been at work in
+Jerusalem eleven years, and his knowledge of the state of the
+Jews is profound.&nbsp; The Jews, he told us, in Palestine may be
+roughly divided into four classes: The Ashkenazim, comprising the
+fair-haired, sallow <a name="page111"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 111</span>German Jew, the Russian, Polish,
+American, etc., who speak Yiddish, and enjoy the protection of
+the consuls of the countries to which they belong; the Sephardim,
+or Spanish Jews, many of whom still wear the black turban imposed
+on them by the mad Caliph Halim; the Gemenites, who have only
+recently come to the land&mdash;they are dark, and wear their
+hair in side-curls; and the Karaites, a sect which sprang up
+about the eighth century.&nbsp; These reject the Talmud and deny
+the authority of the Oral Law; they are few in number, and have
+but one small synagogue; the orthodox religious Jews have no
+religious intercourse with them, and regard them as
+heretics.&nbsp; The Ashkenazim adapt themselves to any
+costume.&nbsp; The Sephardim all wear the dignified and beautiful
+Oriental costume.&nbsp; All unite in wearing the
+love-locks.&nbsp; As to the women, they all dress in Oriental
+costume, and wear their heads covered.&nbsp; On the Sabbath they
+are all dressed in their best.&nbsp; Charms are worn on the heads
+and foreheads and necks of young children, and a sprig of green
+is worn also as a charm against the evil eye.&nbsp; The Rabbis
+generally wear long flowing robes, trimmed with fur, and also a
+turban.</p>
+<p>Specially-appointed Rabbis see that the food is properly
+prepared, as everything must be <i>kosha</i>, or legally
+clean.&nbsp; Milk must not be taken before or after meat.&nbsp;
+No Christian food on any account may be consumed; even eggs
+cooked in Christian pots are refused.&nbsp; Only Jewish wine may
+be drunk, and if a bottle of it is only touched by a Christian it
+becomes unclean.&nbsp; The social and religious life of the Jew
+is identical.&nbsp; The birth of a son causes great rejoicing,
+and improves <a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+112</span>the social status of the mother.&nbsp; Circumcision on
+the eighth day, if the child is strong enough, is a holy
+festival.&nbsp; After eighteen all Jews are expected to
+marry.&nbsp; Although facilities of divorce are large, they are
+not often resorted to.</p>
+<p>One is struck, said Dr. Wheeler, in living among Jews, with
+the fact that religion amongst them is not only a creed or an act
+of observance, but that it pervades every relationship and
+dominates every phase of life.&nbsp; The Sabbath is the pivot
+round which family life moves.&nbsp; It is a day of real
+rejoicing, accompanied by a complete suspension of work.&nbsp; It
+begins with the cup of blessing, of wine mixed with water, of
+which all partake.&nbsp; The Sabbath lamp is lit.&nbsp; No burial
+is allowed on that day.&nbsp; No phylacteries are worn while the
+Cohenites give the Aaronic blessing&mdash;&lsquo;The Lord bless
+thee and keep thee,&rsquo; etc.&nbsp; Visiting the sick has great
+merit.&nbsp; According to the Talmud, eleven visits to the sick
+will release a soul from Gehenna.&nbsp; All are enjoined to
+follow funerals, and to pay honour to the remains of the
+dead.&nbsp; After death the body is allowed to remain awhile
+unburied.&nbsp; The creed of the Jew is as ancient as the
+beginning of history.&nbsp; With it are connected the triumphs
+and struggles and defeats of ages.&nbsp; What strange and
+opposite feelings has the name of Jew created!&nbsp; What
+appalling deeds have been perpetrated in connection with his
+name!&nbsp; The Jew is in every sense, as Dr. Wheeler eloquently
+told us, the marvel of history&mdash;the wonder of the
+ages&mdash;the anomaly of nations.&nbsp; So it has been for
+upwards of 4,000 years.&nbsp; He is Heaven&rsquo;s great witness
+on earth of earth&rsquo;s righteous King in heaven.&nbsp; Nations
+have risen and fallen.&nbsp; Mighty empires have crumbled <a
+name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>to
+decay.&nbsp; Assyria, Greece, Carthage, where are they?&nbsp; Yet
+the Jew&mdash;scattered, despised, persecuted, and trampled under
+foot&mdash;has never disappeared.&nbsp; Nay, more, he has risen
+to be a light and guide to the nations; and many are the
+statesmen and artists and philosophers who have had Jewish blood
+in their veins.&nbsp; And yet, say certain good people, the Jews
+are under a curse.&nbsp; Well, perhaps they are&mdash;when
+poor.&nbsp; Poor people, it seems to me, are under a curse all
+the world over.&nbsp; To the Jews, Jerusalem is the one holy
+city, and here they come to die and be buried in its sacred
+soil.&nbsp; Wealthy Jews in all parts of the world give freely
+for charity and for charitable purposes, and it is this wealth
+that brings so many poor Jews to Jerusalem.&nbsp; By these
+benefactors Jewish children are educated gratuitously.&nbsp; They
+have three synagogues, all very ancient, and the beautiful
+pale-green dome of one of them is a conspicuous feature in the
+view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.&nbsp; Jews, because
+they persecuted the Christ, are not allowed to pass before the
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre.&nbsp; They are also still
+rigorously excluded from the Moslem sanctuary, where it is said
+stood King Solomon&rsquo;s Temple in all its glory, though
+Christians have been admitted of late years to this
+jealously-guarded spot, containing as it does the Dome of the
+Rock&mdash;a very precious spot in Moslem eyes.&nbsp; Alas!
+everywhere the Jew in Jerusalem has to come in contact with
+&lsquo;the pig of a Turk,&rsquo; as he contemptuously calls
+him.&nbsp; I wonder the wealthy Jews do not buy Jerusalem or
+Palestine itself of the Sultan, who, however, does all he can to
+keep the Jews from returning there to live and die.&nbsp;
+Notwithstanding the place it fills in the world&rsquo;s history,
+the <a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+114</span>country is a small one.&nbsp; As it is, the Jews in
+Jerusalem have the greater part of the trade of the city in their
+hands.&nbsp; They own the shops and the cabs, and their numbers
+increase every day, very much, as I have said, against the wishes
+of the Sultan himself.</p>
+<p>It is an awful history, that of the Jew in Jerusalem, of
+incessant revolt on the part of the people, of incessant conquest
+and massacre on the part of the sanguinary conquerors.&nbsp;
+Again and again the Jew seemed on the brink of
+extermination.&nbsp; Nebuchadnezzar, Antiochus, Titus, Hadrian,
+successively exerted their utmost power to extinguish, not merely
+the political existence of the State, but even the separate being
+of the people.&nbsp; Hadrian, to annihilate for ever, writes Dean
+Milman, all hopes of the restoration of the Jewish kingdom,
+accomplished his plan of founding a new city on the site of
+Jerusalem, peopled by a colony of foreigners.&nbsp; The city was
+called &AElig;lia Capitolina: &AElig;lia after the pr&aelig;nomen
+of the Emperor, Capitolina as dedicated to the Jupiter of the
+Capitol.&nbsp; An edict was published to prevent any Jew from
+entering the new city under pain of death, or approaching its
+environs even at a distance so as to contemplate its sacred
+height.&nbsp; More effectually to keep them away, the image of a
+swine was placed over the gate leading to Bethlehem.&nbsp; The
+more peaceful Christians were permitted to establish themselves
+within the walls, and &AElig;lia became the seat of a flourishing
+church and bishopric.&nbsp; At a later period Julian the
+Apostate&mdash;as the ecclesiastical writers term one of the
+noblest men who ever wore the imperial purple&mdash;embraced the
+extraordinary design of rebuilding the Temple of Jerusalem.&nbsp;
+In a public epistle to the nation or community <a
+name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>of the
+Jews, he pities their misfortunes, condemns their oppressors,
+praises their constancy, declares himself their gracious
+protector, and hopes, after his return from the Persian war, he
+may be permitted to pay his grateful vows to the Almighty in the
+holy city of Jerusalem.&nbsp; The Jews from every part of the
+world gave freely to assist this pious enterprise.&nbsp;
+According to the Christian writers, Heaven interfered, and the
+Temple was left unbuilt.&nbsp; This glorious deliverance was
+speedily improved by the pious art of the clergy of Jerusalem and
+the active credulity of the Christian world.&nbsp; It is evident,
+as Gibbon remarks, the restoration of the Jewish Temple was
+secretly connected with the ruin of the Christian Church, a
+Church for which Julian had little love.&nbsp; From the
+confessions of Jerome himself, Jerusalem seemed saturated with
+every form of vice and crime.</p>
+<p>They tell me the Jew is blind because he is waiting for the
+coming Messiah, but, I ask, are we not all waiting for a coming
+Messiah?&nbsp; And the sooner He comes the better for all of us,
+Jew and Gentile alike.&nbsp; If the Jew is waiting for a coming
+Messiah, that is surely to his credit&mdash;that he remains true
+to the teaching of his fathers&mdash;and shows him to be no more
+blind than those of us who piously await the dawn of a
+millennium, which, according to all human appearances, seems as
+far off as ever.&nbsp; When the Turkish Empire breaks up, it will
+be no easy matter how to settle in whose hands Jerusalem shall be
+placed.&nbsp; There may be a terrible fight about the Holy City
+yet.</p>
+<p>It is now the fashion for everyone to rush to Jerusalem.&nbsp;
+At one time to go there required no little expenditure of money,
+and time, and trouble.&nbsp; An <a name="page116"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 116</span>excursion-steamer takes you there
+for a trifle compared with the expense of the journey only a few
+years ago.&nbsp; You land at Jaffa, take the train to Jerusalem,
+and in due time find yourself outside the Jaffa Gate, guarded by
+Turkish soldiers.&nbsp; Amidst a dirty, many-coloured mob of
+donkeys, camels, and people, exhausted by the heat, suffocated by
+the dust, and bewildered by the noise, you are at the Holy City,
+as lying superstition terms it.&nbsp; It certainly is not
+Jerusalem the golden, but is very much the reverse.&nbsp; Its
+smells are indescribable, and to drink its water is death.&nbsp;
+Your first wonder is why David and Solomon should ever have made
+it a royal residence at all.&nbsp; It is a city set upon a hill,
+but it is dominated by hills all round, where no verdure is seen,
+and where the black goat alone finds a scanty existence.&nbsp;
+Climb one of these hills, and you look down on the gray, stony
+city, surrounded by a high wall, over which rise minarets, and
+mosques, and church spires in wild confusion.&nbsp; There is
+nothing to charm the eye there.&nbsp; Enter through one of the
+gates, and you are still more disappointed.&nbsp; You wander in
+hopeless confusion, shut in on all sides by lofty buildings, with
+no windows to speak of, only here and there a door; or you plunge
+into a street with a dark awning, which serves as a bazaar, with
+shops of all kinds around, where so dense is the crowd that it is
+with difficulty you make your way.&nbsp; Poverty seems to be the
+prevailing characteristic of the place.&nbsp; Even the shops fail
+to attract.</p>
+<p>Money is the one thing Jerusalem sucks in as a thirsty soul
+does water when it comes, and many well-meaning people find there
+a living prepared for them who would otherwise have to
+starve.&nbsp; As to the real <a name="page117"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 117</span>state of the people you never hear a
+word.&nbsp; The Turkish tax-gatherer may grind them down.&nbsp;
+The wild Bedouin of the desert may come and take what the
+tax-gatherer has left.&nbsp; But you hear nothing of that, and
+the daily topic of conversation among the European settlers is
+the repetition of dogma and the fulfilment of prophecy.&nbsp; It
+is not till you have cleared out, taken the rail to Jaffa, and
+sail along the blue waters of the Mediterranean, that you get rid
+of the nightmare, have done with cant, and once more breathe
+free.</p>
+<p>The fact is, the Holy City is one gigantic fraud.&nbsp; All we
+know is that there Christ lived and laboured and suffered and
+died.&nbsp; Not a stone remains of the Jerusalem over whose
+impending fate He shed bitter tears.&nbsp; The cunning of an
+interested priesthood has done all the rest, from the discovery
+of the true cross by the mother of Constantine, to the holy fire
+which is seen at Easter by a panting, perspiring crowd in the
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre.&nbsp; The town itself covers an
+area of more than 209 acres, of which thirty-five are occupied by
+the Haram-esh-Sherif.&nbsp; The remaining space is occupied by
+Christians, Mohammedans, and Jews.</p>
+<p>The Greek Church is the strongest branch of the Christians in
+Jerusalem, having eighteen monasteries, with schools, churches, a
+hospital, hospice, and a printing press.&nbsp; The Russian church
+on the Mount of Olives is the grandest ecclesiastical building in
+the city of the modern type.&nbsp; The Roman Catholics have fine
+churches, monasteries, and convents.&nbsp; The Armenian Patriarch
+resides in his convent between the Jaffa and Zion gates.&nbsp;
+The Latins, Abyssinians, and Copts are also well
+represented.&nbsp; The Knights Templars of the <a
+name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>Holy
+Sepulchre, a Roman Catholic body under the patronage of the
+Emperor of Austria, have a fine convent just outside the
+walls.&nbsp; Priests, and nuns, and sisters of mercy, and
+devotees, meet you at every turn.</p>
+<p>One ought to go to Jerusalem if only to see what priests can
+build up on small foundations, and to what length superstition
+can be carried, even in what are termed days of light and
+progress.&nbsp; In this respect the Turk is as great a sinner as
+the Christian, and tells you how at the resurrection the risen
+will have to cross the Valley of Jehosaphat by a bridge of the
+Prophet&rsquo;s hair, from which the wicked will fall straight to
+Gehenna, while to the righteous heaven, with its houris, will
+open its diamond gates.&nbsp; You see in Jerusalem what you see
+nowhere else, a city built up by religion, true or false.</p>
+<p>In a letter from the Rev. Ben Oliel to a friend, he says:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;You want to know what is (1) the actual
+population of Jerusalem; (2) the Jewish population in it; and (3)
+the number of Jews in all Palestine.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Turkish Government, like that of other lands, has
+its statistical &ldquo;bureau&rdquo;&mdash;office; but whatever
+may be its success in the European provinces of the empire, here
+in Asia its computations are believed to be imperfect,
+unreliable, and mainly guesswork.&nbsp; The conscription and
+consequent tax for exemption from military service operate
+against it.&nbsp; The heads of the several religious
+communities&mdash;Turkish or Moslem, Jewish, Latin, Greek,
+Armenian, Copt, Maronite, Melchite, etc.&mdash;who co-operate in
+the census, have powerful motives to frustrate exactitude, for it
+means a larger annual taxation, for which they are made <a
+name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+119</span>responsible; and, apart from this, the inhabitants have
+strong prejudices against being numbered.&nbsp; Therefore, all
+estimates of population are merely approximate, and nothing
+more.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A young Jew of the highest family in this city, who is
+employed in offices of trust in the Pasha&rsquo;s court and has
+access to official records, a convert of this mission, who
+confessed his faith in the Lord Jesus on October 27, tells me
+that in official circles the population of Jerusalem, including
+its suburbs&mdash;Bethlehem, Bethany, the Mount of Olives,
+etc.&mdash;is now computed at 100,000, of which 60,000 are
+believed to be Jews; and he declares my estimate of the general
+population of Jerusalem and its immediate suburbs at from 65,000
+to 70,000, and the Jewish at about 40,000, to be far too
+low.&nbsp; He is custodian of the roll of the Sephardim
+poor&mdash;widows, orphans, blind and decrepit old men and their
+families&mdash;amounting to 7,000 souls, that have to be provided
+for regularly; and yet the Ashkenazim constitute the majority of
+the Jewish inhabitants of Jerusalem now, and they have a roll of
+poor as large proportionately.&nbsp; He says the Sephardim pay
+&pound;1,000 annually for exemption from military service, and
+the Ashkenazim &pound;1,250, which, at the rate of two
+<i>medjidis</i> per head, represents 5,625 men of the age liable
+to service.&nbsp; Jewish families are prolific, and must
+therefore be calculated at seven rather than five per family, and
+if one in each family is liable to service, the result is 39,375
+souls.&nbsp; But this has reference to the Jewish
+<i>rayahs</i>&mdash;Turkish subjects; whereas there is a large
+admixture of those under Russian, Austrian, German, etc.,
+protection, who are free from taxation, military or other.&nbsp;
+By such a <a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+120</span>process of reasoning his estimate of 60,000 Jews for
+Jerusalem is almost proved mathematically.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;I have before me Luncz&rsquo;s First Hebrew Almanack
+for the Jewish year 1895&ndash;96, an interesting compilation; it
+gives the population of Jerusalem thus: &ldquo;Number of
+inhabitants 45,420, of which Jews 28,112 (viz., Ashkenazim
+15,074, Sephardim 7,900, Mughrabim 2,420, Gurgis 670, Bucharis
+530, Tamanites 1,288, Persians 230); Moslems 8,560; Christians
+8,748 (viz., Armenians 695, Greeks 4,625, Abyssinians 105,
+Syrians 23, Protestants 645, Catholics or Latins 2,530, Copts
+125).&rdquo;&nbsp; He does not say so, but he can only mean the
+population <i>inside the walls</i>.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>As an illustration of the difficulties awaiting the Jew who is
+led to renounce Judaism, I quote from a convert&rsquo;s letter a
+few particulars:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;I will briefly say that I commenced the
+journey of life in Jerusalem as son of one of the first Jewish
+families that found their way back to the fatherland.&nbsp;
+According to the custom of our people, my dear mother sent me to
+school when I was only two.&nbsp; I sat at the feet of our Rabbi
+school-teachers until I was twelve; then I studied the
+Rabbis&rsquo; commentaries and had an Arab tutor.&nbsp; At
+thirteen years of age I entered the Seraya, or Government House
+of Jerusalem.&nbsp; I studied to be an Arabic and Turkish scribe,
+and attended the Jewish school to learn French.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;In the Government House there are three judges
+appointed to represent respectively the Christian, Jewish, and
+Moslem citizens.&nbsp; My uncle is the Jewish judge.&nbsp; At
+sixteen I became one of the scribes of the Chief Justice, and two
+years ago his assistant secretary.</p>
+<p><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+121</span>&lsquo;When I used to visit Jaffa I heard about Mr. Ben
+Oliel from many Jews who frequented his house for discussion and
+study of God&rsquo;s Word.&nbsp; In 1890 he came up to Jerusalem,
+and at last I met him.&nbsp; The first time that I called upon
+him I was in company with my father, my uncle the judge, the son
+of the Chief Rabbi, and another Rabbi, one of the judges of the
+Jewish Court.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Chief Rabbi appoints twelve judges, who each serve
+a term of three months every year, and every dispute between Jews
+must first be brought before them, and, if needs be, is referred
+by them to the Turkish Court.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In time the writer became a Christian and was baptized.&nbsp;
+He adds:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;It was my desire to get the training that
+would make me a good Christian teacher, but I could not travel
+without a passport, and could not get this except through the
+application of my father, who, instead, gave strict orders that
+no passport should be made for me.&nbsp; After a year of vain
+endeavour, I was able to persuade a friend who was in the office
+where they are written, on the score of friendship, to give me a
+<i>tishcara</i>, or local passport, which, however, he did not
+dare to record; off in the country it served me well.&nbsp; My
+plan was to start on a trip through the country and seize any
+opportunity that might offer of getting to Egypt.&nbsp; I started
+from the Damascus Gate, my faithful horse being my only
+companion.&nbsp; We travelled first to Nablous, the ancient
+Sichem, and finding that the Samaritans were soon to keep their
+passover, I waited to see their celebrated <a
+name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+122</span>sacrifice.&nbsp; Each family took a lamb, and they went
+out and pitched their tents on Mount Gerizim before the tomb of
+Sichem, the son of Hamor, whom they hold in great reverence, and
+camped out there for eight days.&nbsp; On the first day their
+high-priest sacrificed a lamb for each family, and every day he
+himself mixed the unleavened cakes.&nbsp; Leaving Nablous, I
+struck across country till I came to an Arab village on the
+Jordan, and then followed its course until I came to
+Tiberias.&nbsp; Along this part of the country many of the
+villagers knew me, and wherever I was acquainted they entertained
+me freely with their proverbial hospitality.&nbsp; At one Bedouin
+encampment they insisted on roasting an entire sheep.&nbsp; This
+they did in a very primitive fashion.&nbsp; They dug a ditch in
+the earth, and made fire within it until it was very hot, and
+then, removing the fire, they laid the lamb, well seasoned, on
+the hot ashes, and then buried it for a couple of hours.&nbsp; It
+then made a very savoury dish, of which we all partook, dipping
+into the same dish.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Tiberias is one of the four sacred cities of the Jews,
+and there I found a large number residing.&nbsp; It is also a
+favourite resort because of its hot springs of healing
+qualities.&nbsp; I had left Jerusalem almost ill, and so was very
+glad to take a course of baths here.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;From Tiberias I journeyed towards Nazareth, and visited
+the Tomb of Jethro, near the horns of Hassau, where probably our
+Lord preached His wondrous Sermon on the Mount.&nbsp; At Nazareth
+I was hospitably entertained at the Latin Convent, and a priest
+showed me all the sights of the town.&nbsp; Next day 400 or 500
+French pilgrims arrived, and I shared their entertainment.</p>
+<p><a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+123</span>&lsquo;After three days I resumed my journey, with the
+intention of embarking at Haifa and passing on to Egypt without
+being seen at Jaffa.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And in due time the writer made his escape, and was welcomed
+in America, mainly owing to the assistance of Mr. Ben Oliel, who
+had been the means of his conversion.</p>
+<h2><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+124</span>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">ALEXANDRIA.</p>
+<p>We left Jaffa on the Monday, and in twenty-four hours after
+were landed at Alexandria.&nbsp; Alexandria is not a desirable
+place to land at; travellers have to trust generally to native
+boatmen, who are a race of robbers.&nbsp; For instance, an
+American gentleman described to me how it fared with him on
+attempting to land a few years since.&nbsp; He and a friend made
+a bargain with a respectable man to put them ashore.&nbsp; He
+called a boatman, into whose boat they got with their
+luggage.&nbsp; No sooner had the man rowed a little way from the
+ship than he stopped and demanded the instant payment of a sum
+four times the amount that had been agreed upon.&nbsp; The
+travellers said they had made an agreement with his master, and
+he was bound to carry it out.&nbsp; He replied that he had no
+master; that the boat was his, that the oars were his, and that
+he would neither take them back to the ship nor row them ashore
+unless they complied with his request.&nbsp; One of the gentlemen
+had a revolver, which he held at the rascal&rsquo;s head, telling
+him to prepare for instant death.&nbsp; The man sullenly obeyed,
+but no sooner had he reached the shore than he <a
+name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>landed and
+preferred against the travellers a charge of attempting to murder
+him.&nbsp; The affair promised to be serious, but it was
+discovered by the judge that the revolver was not loaded, nor
+ever had been loaded, and the travellers were at length allowed
+to depart in peace.&nbsp; I heard of another case of a Frenchman
+shooting his boatman, who refused to fulfil his contract.&nbsp;
+In my case, happily, I landed on the quay, and had no trouble
+with the boatmen at all.</p>
+<p>At length I am fairly landed in the land of the
+Pharaohs&mdash;a land whose records are engraved in stones, and
+date thousands of years before the birth of Christ.&nbsp; You see
+nothing of Alexandria till you approach it, and then it spreads
+out before you in all its charm, from Pharos, the most ancient
+lighthouse in the world, on one side, to Pompey&rsquo;s Pillar on
+the other.&nbsp; Soon after I land at the quay, I make my way to
+the railway-station in a carriage and pair, for which I had
+agreed to pay a shilling.&nbsp; At the station the driver has the
+impudence to demand two shillings, which I refuse to give, whilst
+a dragoman, who has fastened himself on to me, though I have
+attempted to get rid of him, demands a shilling for his
+unnecessary attendance.&nbsp; I offer him threepence; he is
+indignant.&nbsp; &lsquo;I am a dragoman,&rsquo; he exclaims in an
+angry tone.&nbsp; &lsquo;What do you take me for?&rsquo;&nbsp; At
+length I give him sixpence, and he goes away in peace.&nbsp; I
+smoke my first pipe of excellent Egyptian tobacco, swallow a tiny
+cup of coffee, all sugar and grounds, and survey the scene from
+the outside of the excellent railway-station, which is a credit
+to the city.&nbsp; Every minute a blacking boy begs me to let him
+clean my boots, but as I need not his services they are
+declined.&nbsp; On my way I have seen <a name="page126"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 126</span>every sign of industry and wealth:
+spacious shops, and a fine square adorned with handsome houses,
+and with a good statue of Ibrahim Pasha&mdash;the man to whom
+modern Egypt owes its first dawn of revived prosperity.&nbsp; The
+municipal authorities of the place have 
+<a href="images/p126b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Pompey&rsquo;s Pillar, Alexandria"
+title=
+"Pompey&rsquo;s Pillar, Alexandria"
+src="images/p126s.jpg" />
+</a>done much to promote its prosperity.&nbsp; The traveller will
+find it to his advantage to stop here a day or two.&nbsp; The
+hotels are excellent, and, with one exception, by no means
+dear.&nbsp; The harbour is full of shipping and steamers, and the
+number of trains laden with merchandise running between Cairo and
+<a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+127</span>Alexandria seems incessant.&nbsp; The railway-carriages
+are an immense improvement on those which take you from Jaffa to
+Jerusalem.&nbsp; Alexandria has a population of over 300,000, and
+its prosperity has greatly increased of late.&nbsp; The English
+reside principally at Ramleh, five miles off, to which there is a
+local train service.&nbsp; On your way you pass the battlefield
+between the English and the French, where our General, Sir Ralph
+Abercrombie, lost his life in the hour of victory.</p>
+<p>Commerce seems to have had her birthplace in Egypt.&nbsp; In
+the time of Joseph, we read, all countries came there to buy
+corn.&nbsp; Fifteen hundred years before the birth of Christ its
+merchants brought indigo and muslins from India, and porcelain
+from China, and the fame of its mariners was great.&nbsp; The
+trade route was down the Persian Gulf, along the Tigris, through
+Palmyra&mdash;the Tadmor of old&mdash;down to the cities of the
+Mediterranean.&nbsp; Arab mariners also sailed from India,
+keeping close to the coast till they reached Berenice, in the Red
+Sea, whence the goods were transported to Captos, thence down the
+Nile to Alexandria.&nbsp; &lsquo;Under such Emperors as the cruel
+and dissipated Commodus,&rsquo; writes Mr. R. W. Fraser, in his
+&lsquo;British India,&rsquo; &lsquo;the plundering barbarian,
+Caracalla, and the infamous Heliogabalus, the wealth that came
+from the East through Alexandria to the imperial city of Rome,
+passed away to Constantinople and the rising cities along the
+Mediterranean.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>The glory of Alexandria in the olden time was the Serapeum,
+sacred to the worship of Serapis, a god originally worshipped in
+Sinope, and brought to Alexandria by the Emperor
+Ptolemy&mdash;worshipped <a name="page128"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 128</span>eventually by the Romans as the
+Supreme Being, the beneficent Lord of Life and Death.&nbsp; It is
+clear the Ptolemies&mdash;at one and the same time Egyptian
+Pharaohs and Greek princes&mdash;felt the need of a real and
+presiding deity for the great city, with its enormous population,
+not only from Greece and its colonies, but from all the nations
+and tribes of the Mediterranean and the East.</p>
+<p>As the seat of a god-worship became important, so did the
+deity its patron.&nbsp; When Alexandria became the official and
+mercantile capital of Egypt, Serapis became the chief of all the
+gods of the land, and there his shrine was worshipped for nearly
+one thousand years.&nbsp; The worship of Serapis was the last to
+fall before the advancing force of Christianity.&nbsp; The
+philosopher saw in Serapis, writes Macrobius, nothing more than
+the <i>anima mundi</i>, the spirit of whom universal nature is
+the body; so that by an easy transition Serapis came to be
+worshipped as the embodiment of the one Supreme whose
+representative on earth was Christ.&nbsp; This is clear from a
+letter written by the Emperor Hadrian <span
+class="smcap">a.d.</span> 131.&nbsp; &lsquo;I am now
+become,&rsquo; writes Hadrian, &lsquo;fully acquainted with that
+Egypt which you extol so highly.&nbsp; I have found the people
+vain, fickle, and shifting with every change of opinion.&nbsp;
+Those who worship Serapis are, in fact, Christians; even those
+who style themselves the bishops of Christ are actually devoted
+to Serapis.&nbsp; There is no chief of a Jewish synagogue, no
+Samaritan, no Christian bishop, who is not an astrologer, a
+fortune-teller, or a conjurer.&nbsp; The very Patriarch of
+Tiberias is compelled, when he comes to Egypt, by one party to
+adore Serapis, by another to worship Christ.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>And
+this seems to show that some Christians, in order to escape
+persecution, enjoyed their own faith under the cover of the
+national and local worship, which was susceptible of a spiritual
+interpretation quite cognate to their own ideas.&nbsp; A similar
+case occurred in Spain, as the historical reader may remember,
+when so many Jews, in fear of the Inquisition, nominally became
+Roman Catholics.&nbsp; Accordingly, it is clear that the tone of
+the higher, the fashionable society in Alexandria was to believe
+that on some grander or philosophic theory all these religions
+differed in form, but were essentially the same; that all adored
+one Logos or Demiurge under different names, all employed the
+same arts to impose on the vulgar, and all were equally
+despicable to the real philosopher.</p>
+<p>The worship of Serapis was abolished in the reign of
+Justinian, and of the former glory of the Serapeum nothing now
+remains, unless it be Pompey&rsquo;s Pillar, which was said by
+some to have formed part of the Serapeum.&nbsp; According to
+Tacitus, sick persons were accustomed to pass a night in the
+Serapeum in order to regain their health.&nbsp; The colossal
+statue of Serapis was involved in the ruin of his temple and
+religion.&nbsp; It was believed that if an insult were offered to
+that statue, chaos would ensue.&nbsp; When a Christian soldier
+aimed his first blow, even the Christians trembled for the
+event.&nbsp; The victorious soldier, Gibbon tells us, repeated
+his blows; the huge idol was overthrown and broken in pieces, and
+the limbs of Serapis were ignominiously dragged through the
+streets of Alexandria.&nbsp; His mangled carcase was burnt in the
+amphitheatre amidst the shouts of the people, and many persons
+attributed their conversion to this <a name="page130"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 130</span>discovery of the impotence of their
+great deity.&nbsp; A process something similar, attended with
+similar results, has more than once occurred in the history of
+missionary enterprise.</p>
+<p>Deeply interesting is Alexandria from a historical point of
+view.&nbsp; It was founded by Alexander the Great more than 300
+years before Christ.&nbsp; King Ptolemy, the first of that name,
+made it the capital of his kingdom, laid the foundations of its
+enormous library, and held out inducements to men of learning to
+come from all parts of the world to settle there.&nbsp; During
+the siege of the city by the Romans the library was burnt, but
+Antony afterwards gave the library a large collection of
+manuscripts, which formed the nucleus of a second library.&nbsp;
+In the early centuries of our era the town was torn with
+religious dissensions about the Jews and religious dogma.&nbsp;
+It was here the beautiful Hypatia, the fair heroine of
+Kingsley&rsquo;s celebrated novel, was torn to pieces by an
+infuriated mob.&nbsp; St. Mark is said to have preached the
+Gospel here.&nbsp; It was here that there arose fierce
+discussions between Arius and Athanasius and Cyril.&nbsp; The
+Christians were persecuted with great severity by Decius, by
+Valerianus, and Diocletian.&nbsp; The city then declined in
+wealth and importance.&nbsp; Its population dwindled away.&nbsp;
+All fanatics, Christian or pagan, seem to me equally to
+blame.</p>
+<p>It was at one time, as I have said, the headquarters of the
+worship of Serapis.&nbsp; The temple stood to the east of
+Alexandria, near Pompey&rsquo;s Pillar.&nbsp; It is said to have
+been one of the most remarkable buildings in the world, and was
+filled with excellent statues and other works of art.&nbsp; It
+was destroyed by the Christian fanatic, Theophilus, during the
+reign <a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>of
+Theodosius II.&nbsp; Gibbon describes the prelate as &lsquo;a
+bold, bad man, the perpetual enemy of peace and virtue, whose
+hands were alternately polluted with gold and blood.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+The library of the Serapeum is said to have contained about
+400,000 manuscripts; at any rate, when it was burnt by the
+command of the Khalif Omar, the manuscripts were said to have
+been sufficiently numerous to heat the public baths for six
+months.&nbsp; Perhaps it is as well they were not all
+preserved.&nbsp; Of making many books there is no end, and many
+are the books published in this intelligent age, the burning of
+which would be no loss, but a gain, to the reading public.&nbsp;
+Among the famous men who studied in the original library of
+Alexandria were Strabo, Hipparchus, Archimedes, Plato, and
+Euclid.</p>
+<p>Then came the blighting rule of the Turk, and the wise men
+moved away.&nbsp; They are all vanished&mdash;gone; in their
+place have come the Jew banker, the tradesman, and the merchant
+prince.&nbsp; The people amuse me.&nbsp; They wear the cotton
+tunic longer, and have a more Arabian cast of feature than the
+Jews.&nbsp; I see a funeral, with a long line of women
+following.&nbsp; I see a Turk at his devotions.&nbsp; He spreads
+a small carpet before him, then raises his arms above his head,
+muttering something all the while; then he bows his body so that
+the head touches the ground, and so he goes on.</p>
+<p>In a little while we are off for Cairo, or Caire, as they call
+it here.&nbsp; On my way I get my first glimpse of one of the
+branches of the Nile, one of the largest, and certainly the most
+renowned, rivers in the world.&nbsp; In a few days I see more of
+the Nile, the overflow of which has not yet been dried up, and
+watch the people <a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+132</span>in the mud, far too soft to admit of ploughing, hoeing
+the land, rich and dark, and casting in the seed which is soon to
+bear an abundant harvest.&nbsp; On our way to Cairo we pass a
+fertile country, and see crops of sugarcane and rice and maize
+growing, and the blue-clad fellaheen at work.&nbsp; We pass
+several big towns, which seem thickly populated and full of
+life.&nbsp; The houses are everywhere the same&mdash;white, with
+flat roofs.</p>
+<p>As originally founded, Alexandria was only equalled by Rome
+itself.&nbsp; It comprehended a circumference of fifteen miles,
+and was peopled by 300,000 free inhabitants, besides at least an
+equal number of slaves.&nbsp; The lucrative trade of Arabia and
+India flowed through its port to Rome and the provinces.&nbsp; No
+one lived an idle life.&nbsp; There was plenty of work for all,
+chiefly in glass-blowing, weaving of linen, and the manufacture
+of papyrus.&nbsp; The people, a mixture of all nations under the
+sun, were difficult to rule, and always ready for sedition.&nbsp;
+A transient scarcity of flesh or lentils, the neglect of a public
+salutation, a mistake of precedency in the public baths, or a
+religious dispute, such as the sacrilegious murder of a divine
+cat, was quite sufficient to create a bloody tumult.</p>
+<p>Origen was a native of Alexandria.&nbsp; It was there, after
+his time, that the endless controversy as to the nature of the
+Three Persons in the Trinity originated&mdash;a controversy which
+lasted for centuries, which led to wars and massacres, and which
+finally separated the Churches of Greece and Rome.&nbsp; The
+Jews, who had settled in Alexandria by the invitation of the
+Ptolemies, carried the teaching of Plato into their religious
+speculations.&nbsp; In time Arius arose to proclaim his idea of
+the Logos, and Athanasius to oppose and protest, and <a
+name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>ultimately
+triumph.&nbsp; The Homoousians prevailed, and the Homoiousians
+were branded and persecuted as heretics&mdash;enemies alike to
+God and man; yet Athanasius was driven from his diocese, and the
+famous St. George of Cappadocia reigned in his stead.&nbsp; The
+pagans of Alexandria, who still formed a numerous and
+discontented party, were easily persuaded to desert a Bishop whom
+they feared and esteemed.&nbsp; At a later time Cyril became the
+Archbishop, and distinguished his orthodox career by the
+animosity with which he expelled the Jews, and opposed the
+doctrine of Nestorius, who taught that there was a Divine and
+human Christ, and refused to worship the Virgin Mary as the
+mother of God.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;He was a most expert logician,&rsquo; writes Zosimus,
+&lsquo;but perverted his talents to evil powers, and had the
+audacity to preach what no one before him had ever suggested,
+namely, that the Son of God was made out of that which had no
+prior existence; that there was a period of time in which He
+existed not; that as possessing free will, He was capable of
+vice; and that He was created, not made.&rsquo;&nbsp; At the
+Council of Nic&aelig;a, held in the reign of Constantine, it was
+decided that Christ and the Father were of one and the same
+nature, and the doctrine of Arius, that Christ and God were only
+similar in nature, was declared heretical.&nbsp; Nevertheless,
+the Arians became more numerous than ever under the reign of
+Valens.&nbsp; As soon as the Christians of the West, writes
+Gibbon, had extricated themselves from the snares of the creed of
+Rimini, they happily relapsed into the slumber of orthodoxy, and
+the small remains of the Arian party that still subsisted in
+Sirmium or Milan might be considered as <a
+name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>objects of
+contempt rather than resentment.&nbsp; But in the provinces of
+the East, from the Euxine to the extremity of Thebais, the
+strength and number of the hostile factions were equally
+balanced, and this equality, instead of recommending the counsels
+of peace, served only to perpetuate the horrors of religious
+war.&nbsp; The monks and bishops supported their arguments by
+invectives, and their invectives were sometimes followed by
+blows.&nbsp; Athanasius still reigned at Alexandria, but the
+thrones of Constantinople and Antioch were occupied by Arian
+prelates, and every episcopal vacancy was the occasion of a
+popular tumult.&nbsp; The Homoousians were fortified by the
+reconciliation of fifty-nine Macedonian or semi-Arian bishops,
+but their secret reluctance to embrace the Divinity of the Holy
+Ghost clouded the splendour of their triumph, and the declaration
+of Valens, who in the first years of his reign had imitated the
+impartial conduct of his brother, was an important victory on the
+side of Arianism.&nbsp; Well might Dr. Arnold write that it was
+an evil hour for the Church when Constantine connected
+Christianity with the State.&nbsp; It is really wonderful that
+real Christianity survived that fatal step when the sword of the
+civil magistrate was drawn in its support.&nbsp; It is hardly yet
+recognised that the religion of Jesus of Nazareth flourishes best
+when free from State patronage and control.</p>
+<h2><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+135</span>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">IN CAIRO.</p>
+<p>Covered with dust, parched with thirst, exhausted with hunger,
+burnt up with heat, I am landed at the charming H&ocirc;tel du
+Nil, in the gardens of which, filled up with American
+rocking-chairs, and trees bearing gorgeous red flowers and
+bananas and palms, and eucalyptus and banyan-trees all around, I
+realize as I have never done before something of the splendour
+and the wondrous beauty of the East.&nbsp; It must have been a
+fairy palace at one time or other, this H&ocirc;tel du Nil, with
+an enchanted garden.&nbsp; In the day it is intolerably hot, but
+the mornings and evenings are simply perfection.&nbsp; If there
+be an Elysium on earth, it is this.&nbsp; I feel inclined to
+pitch my tent here, and for ever bid adieu to my native
+land.&nbsp; The dinners are all that can be desired, the bedrooms
+large and lofty, and the servants, who, with the exception of the
+German waiters, are Soudanese&mdash;tall, white-robed, with a
+girdle round the middle&mdash;seem to me to be the best and most
+attentive in the world.&nbsp; There is nothing they will not do
+for me, and they are honest as the day.&nbsp; Apparently the dark
+boys have a good deal of the negro in their blood.&nbsp; I walk
+out to see the fine <a name="page136"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 136</span>buildings and palaces which lie
+between me and the railway-station, but I cannot stand the bustle
+and confusion of the street, and soon beat a hasty retreat.&nbsp;
+The infirmities of old age follow me into this land of perpetual
+youth.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p136b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"General view of Cairo"
+title=
+"General view of Cairo"
+src="images/p136s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>I walk outside the narrow and sombre lane which leads to the
+hotel in the quaint and ancient street Mousky.&nbsp; Let me
+attempt to describe it, and it will give the reader an accurate
+idea of Oriental life.&nbsp; The Mousky is the busiest street in
+all Cairo.&nbsp; Here meet Greek and Syrian, Anglo-Saxons,
+American or English, Armenian and Turk, Maronite and Druse,
+Italians, French, Russians, German, Dutch, and Belgian, and the
+vast army of residents, men, women, and children, of all shades
+and complexions, from the ebony-black Soudanese to the
+olive-tinted Arab, walk its length, penetrate its dark and
+confusing bazaars, and there <a name="page137"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 137</span>
+<a href="images/p137b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"A street in Cairo"
+title=
+"A street in Cairo"
+src="images/p137s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>is
+nothing more for you to see.&nbsp; Donkey drivers, who beset me
+at every step, and the guides on the look-out for their prey, are
+a perpetual nuisance, even though they assure me they like the
+English and are glad to see them here.</p>
+<p>Crowded together are nooks and corners where native merchants
+ply their trades, and the gloom of some dark recess is lit by the
+glowing blue and scarlet and purple of Persian rugs, and the
+glare of polished and embossed brass.&nbsp; In the street the
+modern descendant of Tubal Cain is hard at work, and the tailor
+plies his needle, and the cigarette-maker rolls up his tobacco in
+its thin wrapper of paper, and the weaver bends over his loom,
+differing in nothing from that used by his forefathers a thousand
+years ago.&nbsp; Eatables and drinkables of strange flavour and
+colour are exposed for sale, and pedlars meet you at every turn
+uttering hoarse and discordant cries.&nbsp; There is quite a buzz
+of conversation, but I cannot understand a word.&nbsp; Why, I
+ask, did not Leibnitz carry out his grand idea and give us a
+universal language?&nbsp; It would have saved some of us a good
+deal of trouble.&nbsp; The pavement is too narrow for anyone to
+walk on, as the shopkeeper sits outside smoking his cigarette,
+while the customers also do the same, and the street is
+completely blocked.&nbsp; You are obliged to get into the narrow
+way where carriages and donkey and luggage waggons meet you at
+every step.</p>
+<p>Women abound, all clad in black, with a black cloth over their
+faces, leaving only the eyes and nose visible, and a cheek of
+pallid skin.&nbsp; The nose is covered with a little gilt
+ornament, I suppose they call it, coming from the forehead, so
+that you really see nothing of it.&nbsp; <a
+name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>Now and
+then you pass a coffee-house where smoking and gambling seem to
+be going on all day.&nbsp; In the course of my ramblings I came
+to a street lined with scribes on stones writing letters for
+their clients, and was struck with the firm, clear hand in which
+their letters are written&mdash;all in Arabic, of course.&nbsp;
+Every now and then a swell passes me in his carriage, with a
+running footman to clear the way with a white or black
+staff.&nbsp; I expect to be knocked down every minute.&nbsp; To
+walk the Mousky in peace and safety, you require to be as deaf as
+a post and to have a pair at least of good eyes at the back of
+your head.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p139b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Tomb of the Caliphs of Cairo"
+title=
+"Tomb of the Caliphs of Cairo"
+src="images/p139s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Wearied, I return to the quiet and shady groves of the hotel,
+a large pile of buildings streaked red and yellow, with a grand
+bit of garden ground at the back, and a wooden tower, from which
+you may see all Cairo at a glance.&nbsp; All the houses are
+flat-roofed, and many <a name="page140"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 140</span>of them look unfinished, though not
+in reality so.&nbsp; I sink into a rocking-chair, light my pipe,
+and talk of the future of Cairo.&nbsp; I say I want to visit a
+Coptic Church, the church which was held heretical by the
+Orthodox Church, as they were said to have held imperfect ideas
+of the dual nature of Christ.&nbsp; One gentleman tells me I had
+better keep away, as the priests will pick your pockets in the
+very church.&nbsp; He has 300 Copts in his employ, and gives them
+all a very bad character.&nbsp; I ask as to the Khedive; everyone
+gives him a bad character, though he has discovered one wife is
+enough for any man.&nbsp; &lsquo;He has the bad blood of his
+father and grandfather,&rsquo; says an Englishman to me.&nbsp; He
+has a thin veneer of civilization, but he is weak and ignorant,
+eaten up with ambition, and over head and ears in debt, though
+his allowance is &pound;100,000 a year, a sum which should go far
+in a city where the price of labour is from two piastres to five,
+the piastre being valued at twopence halfpenny.</p>
+<p>The people live exclusively on maize-corn, certainly not an
+expensive article of diet.&nbsp; The intelligent people are all
+in favour of the English Government, but, alas! the majority does
+not in Cairo, as I am told it does at home, represent the
+enlightened opinions of an intelligent people.&nbsp; I hear the
+shilly-shally policy of the English Government bitterly
+condemned.&nbsp; We are here, and must remain here.&nbsp; As it
+is, the people know not what to expect.&nbsp; There is no
+progress, but a terrible paralysis all over the city.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;I like you English,&rsquo; said an intelligent native;
+&lsquo;but you are here to-day and may be gone to-morrow, and
+then we who have adhered to England will all have our <a
+name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>throats
+cut.&nbsp; We are like a boat between two shores, and know not
+whither we are going.&nbsp; The English must either stop or
+go.&rsquo;&nbsp; Our stay is to the lasting advantage of all the
+European nations.</p>
+<p>We have wonderfully improved the condition of the fellaheen,
+who, according to all I hear, are not too thankful for the
+liberty we have gained for them.&nbsp; I met an intelligent old
+Greek, who deeply resented that we had abolished flogging&mdash;a
+little of it now and then, according to him, did the natives
+good.&nbsp; Manual labour is so cheap that it is used in every
+department.&nbsp; At the hotel I note that they bring the coals
+in in baskets, and in the railway-station I see a native employed
+in laying the dust, with a skin of water, which he carries on his
+back, using the neck as a water-spout.</p>
+<p>Of all the cities I have known&mdash;and, like Ulysses, I am
+ever wandering with a hungry heart&mdash;I infinitely prefer
+Cairo, and am not surprised that it is becoming more and more the
+winter residence of the English aristocracy.&nbsp; It was a
+delight to live when I was there, and as I took my breakfast
+<i>al fresco</i> in the beautiful grounds of the H&ocirc;tel du
+Nil, with tropical plants in full flower all round me, a bright
+sun and unclouded blue sky above, the question whether life was
+worth living seemed to me an absurdity.&nbsp; But, alas! no one
+can look for perfect happiness&mdash;at any rate, on earth.&nbsp;
+In Cairo there are the flies, not so bad as I have seen them in
+Australia or America, but a terrible infliction
+nevertheless.&nbsp; One of my companions, Mr. Willans, the
+popular proprietor of the <i>Leeds Daily Mercury</i>, suffered
+much from them, and had for a time to give up reading and
+writing, and to wear coloured <a name="page142"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 142</span>glasses, but I was let off more
+easily.&nbsp; In Cairo, for the first time, I realized what a
+luxury it was to have dates to eat.&nbsp; We at home, who buy
+dates at the grocer&rsquo;s, have no idea how juicy the date of
+Cairo is.&nbsp; 
+<a href="images/p142b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Donkey Boy, Cairo"
+title=
+"Donkey Boy, Cairo"
+src="images/p142s.jpg" />
+</a>Then the heat is great, and walking far is out of the
+question.&nbsp; But what of that?&nbsp; Directly you turn into
+the street the donkey-boy comes up to offer you a ride; and the
+Cairo donkey is lively, large, and white, and <a
+name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>well
+groomed, sure of foot, swift in speed, and beautiful to look
+at.&nbsp; An English coster&rsquo;s moke is not to be named on
+the same day with the Cairo donkey, on which you can have a ride
+for a trifling sum.</p>
+<p>Life and prosperity seem everywhere to prevail, and the
+station at Cairo conducts you at once into a fine city, with
+broad streets, well watered, and shaded by trees, handsome shops,
+fine hotels, beautiful gardens, and the inevitable statue of
+Mohammed Ali, who did so much to develop modern Egypt.&nbsp;
+Palaces of all kinds attract the eye, one of the finest of these
+being the residence of Lord Cromer.&nbsp; Cairo is distinctly a
+society place, though, perhaps, not so much so as Cannes or Nice,
+and living is dear, though cheaper than it used to be.&nbsp;
+French seems the language principally used, though the guides,
+who pester you at every corner, and the donkey-boys, who are
+equally persistent, have a confusing smattering of English.&nbsp;
+The resident English colony is chiefly composed of the diplomatic
+and Consular bodies, or of those connected with the different
+Consular departments, and of officers of the garrison.&nbsp; You
+meet many English soldiers whose appearance is creditable to the
+country, and amongst the birds of passage are many
+Americans.&nbsp; There are two good clubs for visitors&mdash;the
+Khediveal and the Turf, the latter chiefly supported by army
+officers.&nbsp; The theatre, where French plays and Italian
+operas are performed, is a very fine building.&nbsp; In the same
+neighbourhood is also a <i>caf&eacute; chantant</i> in the
+gardens.&nbsp; All day long, under the bright blue sky, the scene
+is very animated.</p>
+<p>But the visitors, although a welcome addition, do not entirely
+make up Cairene society.&nbsp; The gaiety <a
+name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>begins and
+is mainly kept up by the residents, especially the British civil
+and military, who are always most hospitable at the winter time
+of year.&nbsp; Cairo is no doubt a court and capital, the
+residence of the sovereign to whom diplomatists are accredited
+from all the civilized Powers.&nbsp; But it is also a British
+military station, and it owes much of its present liveliness to
+the British officers and civil servants.</p>
+<p>It was the British garrison that established the Cairo
+Sporting Club, where good polo is played, and very fair cricket,
+&lsquo;squash&rsquo; rackets, and lawn-tennis; where there are
+monthly race-meetings, and officers ride steeplechases on their
+own horses.&nbsp; The big lunches, the pleasant afternoon teas,
+the dances and flirtations so constantly in progress, are
+essentially British.</p>
+<p>Out at Mena, under the shadow of the Sphinx, there is a
+golf-course, and the caddie is an Arab boy in a long blue
+bed-gown, and you can aim your ball from the putting-green
+straight at the Pyramid of Cheops.&nbsp; Out at Matarieh, just
+where Mr. Wilfrid Blunt lives the life of an Arab patriarch,
+under tents, surrounded by his flocks and herds, there is a
+training stable, and the British sporting subaltern keeps his
+&lsquo;tit&rsquo; there, and comes out to give him his gallops at
+early dawn.</p>
+<p>But it is as you get away from the broad streets of new Cairo,
+and plunge into the bazaars and the narrow streets, that you
+realize what a bewildering place old Cairo is.&nbsp; The city of
+Cairo covers an area of three square miles, and greatly exceeds
+the limit of the old walls.&nbsp; On the south stands the ancient
+citadel, on a rock, memorable for the massacre of the
+Mamelukes.&nbsp; Of the most perfect of the old gateways still <a
+name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>remaining
+is the Gate of Victory.&nbsp; Above the archway is an Arabic
+inscription: &lsquo;There is no god but God, and Mohammed is His
+Prophet.&rsquo;&nbsp; The streets are narrow and irregular, and
+badly paved, while the white houses, with their overhanging
+windows, are, at any rate, picturesque.</p>
+<p>The bazaars are of all sorts: the leather-sellers have one,
+the carpet-dealers another, silk-merchants another, and
+everywhere purchaser and buyer seem to spend a great deal of time
+in smoking cigarettes.&nbsp; The gold bazaar is so narrow that
+three persons can scarcely pass; there, and at the silver bazaar,
+you see the artificers constantly at work.&nbsp; Coptic churches
+and mosques you meet everywhere.&nbsp; There is a good attendance
+at the English Church; there are also a Presbyterian Church, and
+two Roman Catholic churches.&nbsp; I saw the bishop of one of
+them, who was to preach, driving along in very grand style.&nbsp;
+The Wesleyans have also a chapel.&nbsp; The howling dervishes
+have also their sanctum, where they exhibit their peculiarly
+unpleasant powers.&nbsp; I decline to go and see them, as
+everyone tells me they are a fraud; and if I want to be deceived,
+there is the Egyptian conjuror always ready with his little
+tricks.&nbsp; He comes daily to the hotel to give a performance;
+also daily resort there the Egyptian minstrels, whose
+performances we all greatly applaud.</p>
+<p>The English have a party paper called the <i>Sphinx</i>,
+which, however, I fancy has little influence in the formation of
+public opinion.&nbsp; In Alexandria a daily English paper is
+published, which reaches Cairo about eight in the evening, but
+which gives little general news, and is chiefly devoted to trade
+and commerce.&nbsp; <a name="page146"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 146</span>It was with a heavy heart I left
+Cairo and its bright and busy life for the gray skies and bleak
+winds of my native land.&nbsp; My consolation is that we breed
+better men than they do in southern climes&mdash;a fact of which
+the Roman C&aelig;sars were aware when they drew their best
+troops from Britain or Northern Gaul.</p>
+<p>The French complain bitterly of English influence in
+Egypt&mdash;a country for which we have done much, and which, if
+it ever becomes prosperous, will owe its prosperity to England
+alone; and yet it is the fact that the Englishman in Egypt lies
+under peculiar disadvantages, and that as much as possible
+English enterprise is discouraged and destroyed.&nbsp; It ought
+not to be so.&nbsp; We who have made Egypt what it is, who have
+fought its battles, developed its resources, improved the
+condition of its people, destroyed its corrupting and enervating
+influences, put its finances in a healthy condition, may be
+expected to have, at any rate, fair play there.</p>
+<p>That this is not so, the case of Mr. Fell, of Leamington, one
+of the few men who have raised themselves from the ranks and
+become honoured far and near, is a notorious illustration.&nbsp;
+In 1890 he obtained a concession from the Egyptian Government
+giving him the right to make tramways in the city of Cairo.&nbsp;
+The particular department of the Egyptian Government which has to
+do with such affairs has at its head a Secretary of
+State&mdash;at that time the office was held by Sir Colin Scott
+Moncrieff&mdash;and a financial adviser appointed by the Egyptian
+Government on the recommendation of the English Government.&nbsp;
+Mr. Fell went to Egypt, had the whole city surveyed, and the
+plans drawn, a difficult task which occupied a considerable <a
+name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>amount of
+time.&nbsp; In August of the same year he bought the steel rails,
+ordered the cars to be built, and did all he could to hasten the
+fulfilment of his contract, and, as a security, deposited with
+the Egyptian Government twenty-two Egyptian bonds of the value of
+&pound;100 each.&nbsp; To still further strengthen his position,
+he had a letter from Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff to the effect that
+he was quite satisfied that Mr. Fell had complied with legal
+requirements.</p>
+<p>So far all was straight sailing, but in April the Egyptian
+Government confiscated the bonds Mr. Fell had deposited with
+them, and also declared the contract null and void, on the ground
+that he had failed to comply with the conditions under which the
+contract was made.&nbsp; Mr. Fell had a long correspondence with
+the Egyptian Government of a very unsatisfactory character.&nbsp;
+In 1893 he returned to Egypt, and interviewed the
+authorities.&nbsp; Lord Cromer advised him to go to law.&nbsp; In
+his action against the Government, he was defeated on the plea
+that the letters written by Sir Scott Moncrieff, as Secretary of
+State, were not valid.&nbsp; In the meanwhile, the Egyptian
+Government advertised for a new concession in July, 1894, for
+which Mr. Fell again tendered, depositing a thousand
+guineas.&nbsp; In compliance with a request from the Egyptian
+Government, Mr. Fell again returned to Egypt, but found, on his
+arrival, that the contract had been given to a Belgian firm, who
+frankly admitted that they had paid so much for the concession
+that it was scarcely worth having.&nbsp; &lsquo;My loss in
+consequence,&rsquo; said Mr. Fell to me, &lsquo;is at least from
+&pound;17,000 to &pound;20,000, and this all through French
+intriguing.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Such is a brief outline of a case of hardship, not <a
+name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>to an
+individual, but the whole nation.&nbsp; Practically speaking,
+there is no British capital invested in Egypt except what was
+there previous to 1882.&nbsp; In the railway department, for
+instance, of late years all the works have been carried on by
+French and Belgian&mdash;to the exclusion of
+British&mdash;contractors.&nbsp; All the contracts for bridges
+which have recently been let have been let to Belgian
+contractors.&nbsp; The only companies that thrive in Egypt are
+French companies.&nbsp; Everything is in their favour.&nbsp; The
+law officers of the Crown are exclusively foreign, principally
+Corsicans, and they are able to control the native tribunal,
+notwithstanding the fact that there are English judges upon it;
+and to these Corsican law officers it is due that so much
+anti-English feeling exists in Egypt at this present time.&nbsp;
+Assuredly, Egypt makes us but a poor return for the money and
+blood we have spent in its behalf.&nbsp; We have a right to
+expect better treatment.&nbsp; If John Bull stands this sort of
+thing, he must be a poor creature indeed.</p>
+<p>Anthony Trollope gives us an amusing illustration of the
+official life of Cairo in his time.&nbsp; He was sent there by
+the English Post-Office to accelerate the mail-service to Suez,
+and it took him two months to do his business.&nbsp; &lsquo;I
+found, on my arrival,&rsquo; he writes, &lsquo;that I was to
+communicate with an officer of the Pasha, who was then called
+Nubar Bey.&nbsp; I presume him to have been the gentleman who
+lately dealt with our Government as to the Suez Canal shares, and
+who is now well known as Nubar Pasha.&nbsp; I found him a most
+courteous gentleman, an Armenian.&nbsp; I never went to his
+office, nor do I know that he had an office.&nbsp; Every other
+day he would come to me at my hotel, and bring <a
+name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>with him
+servants and pipes and coffee.&nbsp; I enjoyed his coming
+greatly, but there was one point on which we could not
+agree,&rsquo; and that was as to the rate of speed with which the
+mails should be carried through Egypt.&nbsp; The Post-Office said
+it must be done in twenty-four hours.&nbsp; The agent of the
+Egyptian Government contended that it would take forty-eight
+hours at the least.&nbsp; For a long time they could come to no
+agreement.&nbsp; Both were equally obstinate.&nbsp; It was
+impossible, said Nubar, that the mail could be carried at such a
+rate.&nbsp; It might do for England, but would not do for
+Egypt.&nbsp; The Pasha, his master, he said, would, no doubt,
+accede to any terms demanded by the British Post-Office, so great
+was his reverence for anything British.&nbsp; In that case, he,
+Nubar, would at once resign his position and retire into private
+life.&nbsp; He would be ruined, but the loss of life and
+bloodshed which would follow would not rest on his head.&nbsp;
+Nevertheless, he gave way after many days&rsquo; delay and a good
+deal of smoking and coffee-drinking.&nbsp; The twenty-four hours
+gained the day.&nbsp; It is to be hoped that official business is
+done more quickly now.&nbsp; A two months&rsquo; stay in Cairo
+over such an affair may have been pleasant.&nbsp; It certainly
+was expensive, and someone other than Mr. Trollope had to pay the
+bill.</p>
+<p>Lord Cromer&rsquo;s latest report of the state of matters in
+Egypt is cheering.&nbsp; The finances are better.&nbsp; The
+income from railways, customs, and tobacco has improved.&nbsp; A
+great boon has been conferred on the fellaheen by the
+experimental money advances made by Government to tide them over
+till their cotton-crop is ripe.&nbsp; Hitherto they have had to
+borrow from Greeks, who, however admirable in the character of
+liberators, <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+150</span>are not so lovely as money-lenders.&nbsp; They charge
+from 20 to 30 per cent. for their loans, and, in addition, always
+take back an Egyptian pound, equal to &pound;1 0s. 6d., for the
+pound sterling.&nbsp; This is really more than an extra 2&frac12;
+per cent., for the loans are not for a whole year.&nbsp; There
+are Mohammedan lenders, too.&nbsp; Their religion forbidding
+usury, they take it out of the fellaheen in cotton.&nbsp; The
+Government in their experimental loans have charged a half per
+cent. per month, or 6 per cent. per annum.&nbsp; The experiment
+was successful.&nbsp; Of nearly &pound;8,000 lent between
+February and July, all but &pound;20 had been repaid with
+interest by the end of November.&nbsp; The benefit that an
+agricultural bank would be to the smaller cultivators has been in
+this way realized by Lord Cromer, who suggests that private
+bankers should take the experiment in hand.</p>
+<p>The Government has also been checkmating the money-lenders by
+sending them good seed at 58 pounds Turkish an ardeb, payable in
+three instalments, upon finding out that the usurers were
+advancing inferior seed at 70 to 100 pounds Turkish, payable at
+cropping-time.</p>
+<p>The land-tax is now got in with certainty, whereas formerly
+the Government never knew what to estimate for arrears; the
+post-office revenue is improving; exports and imports have gone
+up by about two millions; the cotton-crops are better; the sugar
+industry is rapidly increasing in Upper Egypt; the railway
+receipts are the highest on record; railway extension is going
+on, and plans and surveys for light railways are well advanced;
+agricultural roads are constructed; there are electric tramways
+and lighting in <a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+151</span>Cairo.&nbsp; The light dues will be decreased this
+year.&nbsp; The only relic of forced labour is a yearly
+diminishing amount for the protection of the Nile banks during
+the period of flood.&nbsp; Crime is diminishing, and sanitary
+reform is progressing.&nbsp; Education is advancing as far as
+possible, considering the deficiency of funds, and slavery is
+kept under.</p>
+<p>As to the question when our work shall be done, and we English
+shall retire from Cairo, it is impossible, says Sir A. Milner, to
+give a definite answer.&nbsp; It would be difficult to
+over-estimate what that work owes to the sagacity, patience, and
+fortitude of the British Ambassador.&nbsp; The contrast between
+the Egypt of to-day and the Egypt as it was when he first took it
+in hand is the best testimony to his efficiency and wisdom.&nbsp;
+All writers on Egypt agree in this.&nbsp; &lsquo;There is not a
+native,&rsquo; writes Mr. Wood, &lsquo;that does not recognise at
+heart the benefits of the British occupation&rsquo;&mdash;a
+remark which seemed to be to a certain extent true; but not quite
+to the extent Mr. Wood suggests.&nbsp; &lsquo;It is quite an
+anachronism,&rsquo; Sir A. Milner remarks, &lsquo;to suppose that
+the interest of Egyptian finance centres in the debt, and that
+the financial authorities of the country are the mere bailiffs of
+the bondholders.&rsquo;&nbsp; As a matter of fact, now that it
+has been established that the resources of Egypt can bear the
+interest of the debt at its present rate, the last people whom an
+Egyptian Finance Minister need trouble himself about are the
+bondholders.&nbsp; Except when an occasion presents itself to
+reduce the interest by the legitimate method of conversion, the
+debt need no longer have a foremost place in his mind.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Even the Commissioners of the Caisse,&rsquo; writes Sir A.
+Milner, &lsquo;who only meet to <a name="page152"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 152</span>protect the creditors, and who from
+time to time, to justify their existence, get up a little fuss
+about some supposed danger to interests which in their hearts
+they know to be perfectly secure&mdash;even the Commissioners of
+the Caisse, I say, are more occupied now-a-days with employing
+their reserve fund in developing the wealth of the country than
+with needless anxieties about the coupon.&rsquo;&nbsp; Sir A.
+Milner has no doubt well weighed his words.&nbsp; Of all the
+romances of finance there are few to be compared with the
+borrowings of Ismail, to whom is due the honour of having
+originated the Egyptian National Debt.</p>
+<h2><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+153</span>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX.</p>
+<p>There are two things in Egypt which amply repay the traveller
+for his trouble.&nbsp; One is the museum at Gizeh, and the other
+the pyramids, especially the Great Pyramid of Cheops.&nbsp; I did
+them both in one day.&nbsp; It is a pleasant ride from Cairo, on
+a road broad, well watered, and shaded all the way by large
+acacia-trees.&nbsp; I did the museum first, though it will be a
+matter of regret to me that I had only an hour to visit a
+collection where one might usefully spend weeks, and that our
+guide indulged in an English almost as unintelligible to us
+as</p>
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;The
+heathen Greek<br />
+That Helen spoke when Paris wooed.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The palace which shelters the museum is said to have been
+built at a cost of nearly 5,000,000 sterling.&nbsp; The edifice
+is placed in spacious grounds close to the river, just opposite
+the spot on the other side where Pharaoh&rsquo;s daughter is said
+to have come to bathe when she discovered Moses.&nbsp; It was
+opened by the Khedive in 1890.&nbsp; The section devoted to the
+exhibition of papyri is remarkably interesting, but to most of us
+the gem of the collection is the splendid sarcophagus which <a
+name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>contains
+the body of Rameses II., the persecutor of the Israelites.&nbsp;
+The features of his face are well preserved, but his head does
+not give you any idea of any special intellectual capacity; and
+the face of his father, who lies close by, is almost that of a
+pure negro&mdash;that is, as far as I could make it out.&nbsp; On
+one of the papyri is an inscription, of which I copy a portion,
+in order to 
+<a href="images/p154b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Colossal Statue of Rameses II"
+title=
+"Colossal Statue of Rameses II"
+src="images/p154s.jpg" />
+</a>give the reader an idea of the piety of the ancient
+Egyptians:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;When thou makest an offering to God, offer
+not that which He abominateth.&nbsp; Dispute not concerning His
+mysteries.&nbsp; The God of the world is in the light above the
+heavens, and His emblems are upon earth.&nbsp; It is unto these
+that worship is paid daily.&nbsp; When thou hast arrived at years
+of maturity, and art married and hast a house, forget never the
+pains which thou <a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+155</span>hast cost thy mother, nor the care which she has
+bestowed upon thee.&nbsp; Never give her cause to complain of
+thee, lest she lift up her hand to God in heaven to complain of
+thee, and He listen to her complaint.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It seems to me that we have a good deal to learn of the
+ancient Egyptians yet.</p>
+<p>To the Pyramids it is a drive of about five miles.&nbsp; When
+we reached them it was too hot for most of us to attempt
+climbing; yet several of our party did so, and came back
+delighted with the view they had thus gained over all the country
+round.&nbsp; I need not describe the appearance of the Great
+Pyramid, standing as it does on the edge of the Libyan
+desert&mdash;an enormous pile of stones, up which it would be
+impossible to climb were it not for the help of the guides, who
+are remarkably skilful in aiding the traveller in the perilous
+ascent and the far more perilous descent, and at the same time
+remarkably pressing for backsheesh.&nbsp; There is no evidence to
+show that the Pyramids were built for astronomical purposes, and
+the theory that the Great Pyramid was built as a standard of
+measurement is equally worthless.&nbsp; Outwardly, they seem
+nothing but a pile of big stones, broad at the base, tapering at
+the top.&nbsp; A French savant has asserted that the stones of
+the three Pyramids would make a wall round the frontier of
+France.&nbsp; The Pyramid of Cheops was built <span
+class="smcap">b.c.</span> 3733.&nbsp; Its four sides measure in
+length about 755 feet at the base; its height is now 451 feet,
+but it is said to have been originally about 481 feet.</p>
+<p>Of late, as I have shown, the trip to the Pyramids cannot well
+be easier or more agreeable.&nbsp; In 1868 Sir <a
+name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>Stafford
+Northcote thus describes his experiences: &lsquo;We observed
+nothing particular till we reached the Nile, when the scene of
+crossing in the ferry-boats afforded us unmixed
+satisfaction.&nbsp; The usual amount of noise in the streets at
+Cairo was as silence to the noise at the waterside.&nbsp; Hosts
+of donkeys were being pushed, pulled, beaten, or shouted at, and
+eventually lifted into the boats, and then shoved off with loads 
+<a href="images/p156b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"Pyramid and Sphinx"
+title=
+"Pyramid and Sphinx"
+src="images/p156s.jpg" />
+</a>that looked very unmanageable.&nbsp; We had a boat to
+ourselves, and our donkeys took their places in it like old
+stagers.&nbsp; We had a pretty strong breeze in our favour, and
+sailed across easily enough, wondering how we were to get back
+again.&nbsp; Soon after crossing, we came into the fine new road
+which the Viceroy has made to the Pyramids, and which is
+perfectly luxurious.&nbsp; It is as wide as the Edgware Road, but
+not so hard, <a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+157</span>
+<a href="images/p157b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"The Great Sphinx. (From a photograph taken by Dr. W. Ogle,
+February, 1888)"
+title=
+"The Great Sphinx. (From a photograph taken by Dr. W. Ogle,
+February, 1888)"
+src="images/p157s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>and
+must be charming for a horse&rsquo;s foot.&nbsp; Avenues of
+acacias are planted all along it, and when these have grown to
+the size of those which line the earlier part of the road, the
+approach will be in delicious shade all the way.&nbsp; Avenues of
+trees are inferior in dignity to avenues of sphinxes, but make
+pleasanter travelling.&nbsp; We were seized on in the usual way
+and dragged up the Great Pyramid by the Arabs.&nbsp; I could have
+got up a great deal better by myself, but it would have been
+contrary to all precedent, and might have led to an
+<i>&eacute;meute</i>.&nbsp; It took me twenty minutes to go up,
+including a good stoppage for breath and another for a wrangle
+between two Arabs.&nbsp; The view from the top was good, but one
+could not enjoy it much in the presence of such a crowd.&nbsp;
+The first thing my Bedouin did was to go down on his knees and
+offer to cut my name, which I indignantly forbade.&nbsp; He then
+proceeded to tender some coins (genuine antique, of course) at a
+suspiciously low price, and finally he urged me to come down
+quickly, in the hopes, no doubt, of getting hold of another
+victim.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Sir Stafford adds that he admired the Sphinx, which is, in
+some respects, more interesting than the Pyramids
+themselves.&nbsp; Now there is to be a tramway to the
+Pyramids.&nbsp; But I fear the nuisance of the Arab guides
+shouting and pushing will remain a nuisance still.</p>
+<p>As I sit under what little shade I can find on the burning
+sand, I am badgered to death by the dealers in imitation antiques
+and the donkey boys.&nbsp; The white donkeys of Egypt are
+beautiful animals, and sometimes fetch a hundred pounds.&nbsp; I
+have seen a gentleman whose donkey cost him that sum.&nbsp; The
+value of the common donkey to be met with in the streets of Cairo
+<a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>is about
+seven pounds.&nbsp; The finest donkeys in the world come from
+Cyprus.&nbsp; The next best are those to be had at Syene, in
+Egypt.&nbsp; I could tell much of the artfulness of the
+donkey-boys.&nbsp; One of my companions was very stout, and did
+not think it right to gallop, on account of his weight.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Me too fat,&rsquo; said he to the donkey-boy.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;No,&rsquo; replied the latter&mdash;&lsquo;not too fat;
+you fine man.&rsquo;&nbsp; Again, one of the ladies of our party
+was enjoying a ride, when the boy plaintively remarked:
+&lsquo;Fine lady&mdash;fine donkey&mdash;poor
+donkey-boy!&rsquo;&nbsp; And the boy secured a little extra
+backsheesh.&nbsp; I could fill a chapter with the smart sayings
+of the donkey-boys.&nbsp; So far as I can make out, there is no
+need for the donkey-boy to travel to Ireland to kiss the
+Blarney-Stone.&nbsp; Alas for him, I was deaf to all his
+flattery, and plunged on in the burning sand till I stood in the
+presence of the world-renowned Sphinx.</p>
+<p>At first I was disappointed in the Sphinx, but, like Niagara,
+the more you look, the more you admire.&nbsp; Poets and literary
+men have told us how it stands in the desert, and has stood for
+centuries, overlooking the eternal sands as nations and dynasties
+come and go.&nbsp; In reality its position is by no means
+elevated, and you don&rsquo;t see it till you are actually before
+it.&nbsp; And yet one can in time realize something of that fine
+passage in &lsquo;Eothen,&rsquo; written half a century ago,
+which tells how this unworldly Sphinx has looked down on ancient
+kings of Ethiopian and Egyptian origin, upon Greek and Roman,
+upon Arab and Ottoman conquerors, upon Napoleon, dreaming of an
+Eastern empire, upon battle and pestilence, and how it will
+remain watching when Islam will wither away, and the Englishman
+will plant a firm foot on the banks of <a
+name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 160</span>the
+Nile.&nbsp; Originally it was crowned with a helmet; the stone
+cap was only discovered as lately as 1896.&nbsp; Mr. John Cook
+runs a four-horse coach to the Pyramids and back during the
+season, and thus, at the foot of the Sphinx, the present and the
+past meet and mingle.&nbsp; The age of the Sphinx is
+unknown.&nbsp; All that is certain is that it was the work of one
+of the kings of the ancient empire.&nbsp; A stele discovered of
+the time of Thothmes, <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 1533,
+records that one day, during an after-dinner sleep, Hermachis
+appeared to Thothmes IV., and promised to bestow upon him the
+crown of Egypt if he would dig his image the Sphinx out of the
+sand.&nbsp; Another inscription recently discovered shows that
+the Sphinx existed in the time of Cheops.&nbsp; The Sphinx is
+here hewn out of the solid rock, but pieces of stone have been
+added when necessary.&nbsp; The body is about 150 feet long, the
+paws are 50 feet long, the head is 30 feet long, the face is 14
+feet wide, and from the top of the head to the base of the
+monument the distance is about 70 feet.&nbsp; Originally there
+were probably ornaments on the head, the whole of which was
+covered with a limestone covering, and the face was coloured
+red.&nbsp; Of these decorations scarcely any traces now remain,
+though they were visible towards the end of the last
+century.&nbsp; The condition in which the monument now appears is
+due to the savage destruction of its features by the Mohammedan
+rulers of Egypt, some of whom caused it to be used for a
+target.&nbsp; Around this imposing relic of antiquity a number of
+legends and superstitions have clustered in all ages.&nbsp; A
+little to the south-east of the Sphinx stands the large granite
+and limestone temple excavated by M. Marriette in 1853.</p>
+<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>And
+now I have done with the East, and my face is turned towards
+Marseilles.&nbsp; I am once more on board the <i>Midnight
+Sun</i>, the quiet and repose of which are infinitely refreshing
+after the tumult and bustle of Egypt.&nbsp; Long, long will I
+remember the gorgeous East&mdash;its heat, its confusion, its
+noise, its undying charm.&nbsp; To enjoy Cairo, you must go and
+stop there a winter.&nbsp; My fellow-passengers seem to have been
+lavish in their expenditure.&nbsp; One gentleman alone of our
+party expended as much as &pound;60 in the purchase of carpets
+and gold-embroidered cloths, and for the ladies the bazaars seem
+to have had peculiar charms.&nbsp; I am sure Dr. Lunn deserves
+the hearty thanks of all our party for organizing what has proved
+to be such a gratifying time.&nbsp; His brother and his
+secretary, Mr. Wight, have done all in their power to make us
+comfortable.&nbsp; There was no hitch in any of the
+arrangements.&nbsp; Carriages and hotels were all of the very
+best, and the cost of the whole trip was really remarkably
+small.&nbsp; The ordinary traveller, making the trip on his own
+account, must have had to pay a great deal more, and experienced
+an amount of trouble and fatigue, and consequent loss of temper,
+of which we passengers by the <i>Midnight Sun</i> have had no
+conception.</p>
+<p>The Doctor calls his tours educational ones, and provides us
+with lectures.&nbsp; I did not much profit by the lectures, my
+hearing being, alas! rather defective; yet we all of us got a
+good deal of education during the course of our visit&mdash;the
+education which comes to all of us from the use of our eyes and
+ears, and the gift, or, rather, exercise, of common-sense.</p>
+<p>I ought to mention that there is a very good hotel on your
+right just as you get to the Pyramids; many <a
+name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>gentlemen I
+met were staying there, and spoke well of it.&nbsp; Some years
+since a gentleman suffering from consumption built a house, and
+went to live there in the hope that the pure air of the desert
+would restore him to health.&nbsp; It did not.&nbsp; As is the
+case with so many consumptive people, the remedy was deferred too
+long.&nbsp; Many are those who have gone to the desert to
+recover, but fade away and die, to the sorrow of those who loved
+them, simply because they have deferred the remedy too
+long.&nbsp; On the decease of the builder of the house, it was
+greatly enlarged, and is now known as the Mena House Hotel.&nbsp;
+Mena is the name of one of the most ancient Egyptian kings.&nbsp;
+All round it stretches the desert right away to the great Sahara,
+and there Byron might have realized his dream&mdash;which,
+happily, he never realized, nor ever, perhaps, wished to&mdash;of
+the desert being his dwelling-place, with some fair spirit for
+his minister,</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Where he might soon forget the human
+race,<br />
+And, hating no one, love but only her.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>It was well for the noble poet, whose fame will grow when that
+of our Poet Laureate and his brother rhymesters will have
+collapsed, that the elements did not hear his prayer and accord
+him his heart&rsquo;s desire.&nbsp; But a fellow might do worse
+than put up at the Mena Hotel, of which I, alas! only saw the
+outside.&nbsp; One ought to stop some time at the Pyramids.&nbsp;
+Mr. Pollard, who devotes considerable space to them&mdash;the
+last authority on the subject&mdash;says the rocks upon which
+they are built, &lsquo;and the stones with which they are
+constructed, abound with small fossil shells, which, from their
+resemblance to money or coins, have caused <a
+name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>this
+limestone to be called nummulite.&nbsp; Other round, small
+shells, closely resembling lentils, are also found; the Arabs say
+that they were the food of the masons turned into stone.&nbsp;
+The flora is interesting, though limited: an anthromis bearing
+its strong characteristic scent, but without petals; a very
+pretty small plant of the herbage family; and an umbelliferous
+plant smelling strongly of aniseed, were all much appreciated by
+the camels and snails.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>While I was there I saw no flowers, nor heard of any.&nbsp;
+They had all withered under the scorching sun.</p>
+<h2><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+164</span>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE RIVER NILE.</p>
+<p>At length I gaze on the Nile&mdash;that marvellous river, the
+sources of which, though many have tried to find them, have only
+been discovered in our day.&nbsp; The history of Egypt is the
+oldest known to us.&nbsp; A large portion of its history can be
+constructed from the native records of the Egyptians, and those
+records are all to be found on the banks of the Nile.&nbsp; Four
+thousand four hundred years before Christ, Mena, the first King
+of Egypt of whom we have a record, founded Memphis, having turned
+aside the course of the Nile and established a temple service
+there.&nbsp; In the reign of Ammenehat, 2,300 years before
+Christ, special attention was paid to the rise of the Nile, and
+canals were made and sluices dug for irrigating the country; the
+rise of the Nile was marked on wells at Semnah, about thirty-five
+miles above the second cataract, and the inscriptions are visible
+to this day.&nbsp; A thousand years later Seti I. is said to have
+built a canal from the Nile to the Red Sea.&nbsp; Under the Roman
+Emperor Trajan the Nile and Red Sea Canal was reopened.&nbsp;
+Egypt proper terminates at Syene: the territory south of that
+town and each side of the new Nile is called <a
+name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+165</span>Nubia.&nbsp; All Egypt depends upon the Nile; where the
+Nile does not flow all is barrenness&mdash;nothing but sand and
+rock.</p>
+<p>The area of the land in Egypt available for cultivation is
+about 11,500 square miles; the Delta contains about 6,500 square
+miles, and the Nile Valley about 5,000.&nbsp; The country seems
+to have been taken possession of by a people from the East about
+5,000 years before Christ.&nbsp; They found there an aboriginal
+people, with a dark skin and complexion.&nbsp; The Egyptians
+generally called their land black (Kanit), and the term is
+appropriate, if we consider the dark rich colour of the
+cultivated land.&nbsp; In the Bible Egypt is known as Ham.&nbsp;
+All nations have held the land, and have sent their people
+thither.&nbsp; But it is a curious fact that the physical type of
+the Egyptian fellah is exactly what it was in the earliest
+dynasties.</p>
+<p>The river Nile is one of the largest rivers in the
+world.&nbsp; It is formed by the junction of two great arms, the
+Blue Nile and the White; one rises in Abyssinia, at an elevation
+of about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea; the other, the
+true Nile, has its fountain-head in the Victoria Nyanza, a huge
+basin far below the level of the country.&nbsp; The course of the
+Nile has been explored about 3,500 miles.&nbsp; From Khartoum to
+Cairo the Nile falls about 400 yards; its width in its widest
+part is about 1,100 yards.&nbsp; After entering Egypt, the Nile
+flows in a steady stream always to the north, and deposits the
+mud which is the life of Egypt.&nbsp; The breadth of the Nile
+Valley varies from four to ten miles in Nubia, and from fifteen
+to thirty in Egypt.&nbsp; The width of the area of cultivated
+land on each bank of the river in Egypt is never more than eight
+or nine <a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+166</span>miles.&nbsp; The inundation caused by the descent of
+rain on the Abyssinian mountains commences at the cataracts in
+June, and in July makes a great show.&nbsp; The rise of the Nile
+continues till the end of September when it remains stationary
+about three weeks.&nbsp; In October it rises again, and attains
+its highest level.&nbsp; When I saw it in November the waters had
+subsided, and the peasants were hard at work, making the best of
+their opportunity.</p>
+<p>The ground was still too wet for ploughing, but gangs were
+turning up the soil with hoes, and sowing the seed.&nbsp; It
+seemed to be simple work, under the blue sky and the bright
+sun.&nbsp; There was no need for high farming; Nature did
+everything, and the toil of the labourer was richly
+rewarded.&nbsp; It made me think of what Douglas Jerrold said of
+Australia&mdash;that it was a country so fertile that &lsquo;if
+you but tickle her with a hoe she laughs with a
+harvest.&rsquo;&nbsp; And the harvest is wonderful.&nbsp;
+Commercially, the Nile is a fortune to Cairo.&nbsp; It is
+estimated that if all the land watered by the Nile were
+thoroughly cultivated, Egypt, for its size, would be one of the
+richest countries in the world.&nbsp; Till the Cairo Waterworks
+were established, the people of Cairo depended solely on the
+water of the Nile; and in Cairo, as in Jerusalem, the
+water-carrier is still to be seen, bearing on his back a large
+black goatskin filled with water from the river.&nbsp; At the
+Cairo railway-station he is always in evidence watering the
+platform and keeping down the dust.&nbsp; The short legs of the
+goat cut off at the knee stick out in a most grotesque manner
+when the skin is full and round.&nbsp; The neck forms the spout,
+and is held firmly in the left hand, to enable the carrier to
+sprinkle the contents where <a name="page167"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 167</span>desired.&nbsp; The weight of some of
+these large skins must be very considerable.&nbsp; The skins used
+for wine are identical in form with these.</p>
+<p>In ancient times there were near Cairo no less than seven
+branches of the Nile; only two now remain.&nbsp; Very busy are
+the people who have to do with the Nile in the vicinity of
+Cairo.&nbsp; A large open space at the end of one of the bridges
+is selected for the collection of the octroi duties levied upon
+all food and produce entering the city.&nbsp; Here the fellaheen
+assemble daily, with their camels and asses laden with produce,
+or with droves of buffaloes and oxen, and flocks of sheep and
+goats.&nbsp; The scene there is almost picturesque and
+animated.&nbsp; Another bridge carried over a wide canal, which
+forms an important backwater to the hill, connects the western
+shore.&nbsp; From this point roads radiate north, west, and
+south, each shaded by avenues of the acacia, so common in
+Egypt.&nbsp; The Ghizeh road is the southern one, following the
+course of the river, always alive with boats with large
+triangular sails, always redolent of busy life.</p>
+<p>Egypt without the Nile would be a desert.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Anyone,&rsquo; says old Herodotus, the father of history,
+the truth of whose narrative every day becomes more apparent to
+everyone who sees Egypt, without having heard a word about it
+before, &lsquo;must perceive, if he has only common powers of
+observation, that the Egypt to which the Greeks go in their ships
+is an acquired country, the gift of the Nile.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>The prosperity of the country depends upon its inundation: if
+it should prove excessive, and becomes what is termed a high
+Nile, towns and villages are sometimes swept away; if it should
+not rise above a <a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+168</span>certain height, it is called a low Nile&mdash;a large
+area will be left uncovered, and deficient crops will be the
+result.&nbsp; Fortunately, a low Nile is of rare
+occurrence.&nbsp; At one time, the only way of going up the Nile
+was by the dahabeah, a kind of yacht fitted up for the
+convenience of travellers, an expensive and dilatory mode of
+conveyance.&nbsp; Now Mr. John Cook has a line of fine steamers,
+and the Nile and the journey up and down is done as safely and
+expeditiously as the trip by the <i>Clacton Belle</i> steamers up
+and down the Thames.&nbsp; The voyage to Assouan and back is done
+in three weeks.&nbsp; Facilities are afforded the traveller for
+the extension of his voyage to the second cataract.</p>
+<p>Of course, the ancient Egyptians worshipped the Nile.&nbsp;
+Hapi, the god of the Nile, is represented wearing a cluster of
+flowers on his head; he is coloured red and green, probably to
+represent the colours of the water of the Nile immediately before
+and just after the beginning of the inundation.&nbsp; An
+illustration of this worship occurs upon a wall in Thebes, where
+a priest, in his painted robe, is offering incense, while others
+play on a harp, a guitar, and two reed pipes.&nbsp; This is the
+song of one of the priests who lived 1,400 years before
+Christ:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Adoration to the Nile!&nbsp; Hail, to thee,
+O Nile! who manifesteth thyself over this land, and comest to
+give life to Egypt; mysterious is the coming forth from the
+darkness, watering the orchards created by Ra (the sun-god), to
+cause all the cattle to live.&nbsp; Thou givest the earth to
+drink, inexhaustible one.&nbsp; Thou createst the corn; thou
+bringest forth the barley, causing the temples to keep
+holiday.&nbsp; If thou ceasest thy toil and thy work, then all
+that exists is in anguish. . . .&nbsp; None <a
+name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>
+<a href="images/p169b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"A Tourist Streamer&mdash;Cook&rsquo;s Nile Flotilla"
+title=
+"A Tourist Streamer&mdash;Cook&rsquo;s Nile Flotilla"
+src="images/p169s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>know
+the place where he dwells; none discover his retreat by the aid
+of a written spell.&nbsp; All is changed by the inundation.&nbsp;
+It is a healing balm for all mankind.&nbsp; A festal song is
+raised for the harp with the accompaniments of the hand,&rsquo;
+etc.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In a valuable work on the Nile, written by Wallis Budge,
+Acting Assistant Secretary in the department of Egyptian and
+Assyrian Antiquities, British Museum, and published by Thomas
+Cook and Son, we have a beautiful illustration of the practical
+side of Egyptian theology, written by a scribe called Ani, who
+gives his son advice for behaviour in all the varied scenes of
+life.&nbsp; It is taken from one of the papyri in the Egyptian
+Museum at Ghizeh:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;If a man cometh to seek thy counsel, let
+this drive thee to look for information.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Enter not into the house of another; if a man asks thee
+into his house, it is an honour for thee.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Spy not upon the acts of another from thy house.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Be not the first to enter or leave an assembly, that
+thy name be not tarnished.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The sanctuary of God abhorreth noisy
+declamations.&nbsp; Pray humbly, and with a loving heart whose
+words are spoken silently; God will then protect thee, and hear
+thy petitions, and accept thy offerings.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Consider what hath been.&nbsp; Set before thee a
+correct rule of life as an example to follow.&nbsp; The messenger
+of death will come to thee, as to others, to carry thee away;
+yea, he standeth ready.&nbsp; Words will profit thee nothing, for
+he cometh&mdash;he is ready.&nbsp; Say not, &ldquo;I am a child;
+wouldst thou in very truth bear me away?&rdquo;&nbsp; Thou
+knowest not how thou wilt die.&nbsp; Death cometh to meet the
+babe at his mother&rsquo;s <a name="page171"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 171</span>breast, even as he meeteth the old
+man who hath finished his course.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Take heed with all diligence that thou woundest no man
+with thy words.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Keep one faithful steward only and watch his deeds, and
+let thy hand protect the man who hath charge of thy house and
+property.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The man who hath received much and giveth little is as
+one who committeth an injury.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Be not ungrateful to God, for He giveth thee
+existence.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Sit not while another standeth, if he be older than
+thou or if he is thy superior.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Whosoever speaketh evil receiveth no good.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h2><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+172</span>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE RETURN TO MARSEILLES.</p>
+<p>What memories crowd on me as I step into the tug which is to
+take me and the rest of us, in a confused mass, stowed away
+amidst the luggage, to the Custom House at Marseilles, a fine,
+handsome building, apparently in the very heart of the town, with
+shipping of many nations all around; for has not Marseilles in
+our time come to be the headquarters of all those who, fearing
+the Bay of Biscay, have a mind to make their way along the
+historic shores, and on the blue waters of the
+Mediterranean?&nbsp; As I leave the Custom House, a friend says
+to me: &lsquo;I have soon got out.&nbsp; You see, there is
+nothing lost by civility.&nbsp; I took my luggage to one of the
+officers, took off my hat to him, and he came directly and let me
+go through.&rsquo;&nbsp; I replied to the effect that I was more
+successful, as I had been out a quarter of an hour before my
+friend, and I never took off my hat, but simply held out my
+Gladstone, which confirms me in my original idea, which, I
+mention for the benefit of travellers, that the real secret of
+getting one&rsquo;s examination over is simply to have nothing
+for the Custom House officer to search.&nbsp; <a
+name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>
+<a href="images/p173b.jpg">
+<img class='clearcenter' alt=
+"The New Harbour, Marseilles.  From Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Cities
+of the World&rsquo;"
+title=
+"The New Harbour, Marseilles.  From Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Cities
+of the World&rsquo;"
+src="images/p173s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>Not
+that I deprecate civility; the more I travel in France, the more
+I appreciate it.&nbsp; We English are a grand people&mdash;there
+are no better men on the face of the earth&mdash;but we might be
+a little more civil to one another.</p>
+<p>And now I am in Marseilles, a clean, handsome, flourishing
+city, with an enormous population and an enormous trade; and
+naturally I think of the time&mdash;now more than a century
+ago&mdash;when the Marseillais set out for Paris.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;The notablest of all the moving phenomena of that
+time,&rsquo; writes Carlyle, &lsquo;is that of Barbaroux&rsquo;s
+&ldquo;six hundred Marseillais who know how to die.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+A black-browed mass, full of grim fire,&rsquo; got together no
+one knows how&mdash;from the <i>for&ccedil;ats</i>, say
+some.&nbsp; As they march through Lyons, the people shut their
+shops in fear.&nbsp; &lsquo;The Thought which works voiceless in
+this black-browed mass, an inspired Tyrt&aelig;us, Colonel Rouget
+de Lille, has translated into grim melody and rhythm; into his
+Hymn or March of the Marseillaise: luckiest musical-competition
+ever promulgated.&nbsp; The sound of which will make the blood
+tingle in men&rsquo;s veins; and whole Armies and Assemblages
+will sing it, with eyes weeping and burning, with hearts defiant
+of Death, Despot, and Devil.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Marseilles is a far nobler city than it appears to the tourist
+as he rushes from the train to catch the steamer waiting to bear
+him far away.&nbsp; High above the city, on a precipitous rock,
+from which you have a grand view of the place, and the harbour,
+and the far-off Mediterranean, stands the old Cathedral of
+Marseilles&mdash;Notre Dame de la Garde&mdash;a noble Romanesque
+<a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span>
+<a href="images/p175b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"Marseilles"
+title=
+"Marseilles"
+src="images/p175s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+176</span>building, with a gilt figure of the Virgin at the top,
+her arms extended as if to protect the city.&nbsp; You reach it
+either by a winding road or a hydraulic lift, for the use of
+which you pay a trifle.&nbsp; It was there the ancient
+inhabitants kept watch over sea and land.&nbsp; In time a chapel
+was erected on its site, which became a place of pilgrimage for
+mariners and fishermen.&nbsp; The present magnificent building
+was erected in 1864.&nbsp; If only for the view, the visitor is
+well repaid for his trouble.&nbsp; Hardly can you enjoy a more
+magnificent prospect, embracing the fair valley of the Rhone, the
+white houses of Marseilles stretching up the plain, the gray
+mountains of Spain in the far distance, the dazzling blue of the
+Gulf of Lyons, the dark towers of the fort, with the rocky,
+picturesque islands, with the Ch&acirc;teau d&rsquo;If, whence,
+according to Dumas, Monte Cristo made his marvellous escape,
+beyond.&nbsp; In the city itself, on a hill, whence you have also
+a fine view, is a grand new cathedral of imposing form and
+structure.&nbsp; It was Sunday when I visited it; but there were
+not many people in it, though more in the heart of the city,
+where I tried to enter a church, it was so crowded that there
+really was no standing-room.&nbsp; But even in Marseilles you
+must be cautious when the east wind blows.&nbsp; It was there Dr.
+Punshon, the greatest Wesleyan orator of our time, caught the
+cold which laid the foundation of the illness that ultimately
+carried him off.</p>
+<p>It has a very ancient history, this noble city of
+Marseilles.&nbsp; It owes its origin to a tribe of Ionian Greeks,
+who, about 600 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, there founded a
+town that ultimately became the head of a Roman province.&nbsp;
+In the contest between Pompey and C&aelig;sar, the town <a
+name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>wished to
+remain neutral, but C&aelig;sar had need of gold, vessels, and
+harbours, and scrupled not for a moment to lay siege to it, which
+was maintained against him during the whole of his long and
+severe warfare with Afranius and Petreius in Spain, and was not
+taken till after the capture or dispersion of their
+legions.&nbsp; The treatment of the town was so merciless, that
+from thenceforward, by Strabo&rsquo;s account, it only preserved
+vestiges of its former prosperity and wealth.&nbsp; However,
+Marseilles in time recovered from the blow, and chiefly by means
+of the book trade.&nbsp; It seems to have become a miniature
+Athens.&nbsp; France was especially distinguished by its aptitude
+and zeal for Roman learning.&nbsp; At Marseilles there was an
+institution for Greek education and literature, which was
+visited, even in preference to Athens, by men of the highest
+rank.&nbsp; A large institution of the same kind existed at
+Autun, and Tacitus calls that city the principal seat of Latin
+culture.&nbsp; With respect to the book trade of Lyons, we have
+the testimony of the younger Pliny, when he states that he
+learned, with some surprise, from a friend that his own
+discourses and writings were publicly sold there.</p>
+<p>In the time of the Crusades Marseilles became a busy
+place.&nbsp; It is now wholly given up to trade, and flourishes
+accordingly.&nbsp; Since 1850 it has become the head
+packet-station on the Mediterranean, and more and more frequented
+by English passengers, who can stay at gorgeous hotels, or more
+economical ones, according to the state of their finances.&nbsp;
+If they only stop the day, they cannot do better than dine at the
+buffet attached to the railway-station, unless they wish to
+partake of the famous <i>bouillabaisse</i> of which Thackeray
+sung, and <a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+178</span>to which my friend&mdash;my lamented
+friend&mdash;George Augustus Sala, devoted many a learned
+paragraph in his &lsquo;Table Talk&rsquo; in the <i>Illustrated
+London News</i> and elsewhere.&nbsp; Woe is me!&nbsp; I quite
+forgot all about it till just as I had to take the train to carry
+me away.&nbsp; I shall never cease to regret that forgetfulness
+on my part.&nbsp; It may be that I may live to repair it!</p>
+<p>There was a time when this delicious delicacy could be had in
+Paris.&nbsp; Some of us can still remember Thackeray&rsquo;s
+beautiful ballad:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;A street there is in Paris famous,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; For which no rhyme our language yields;<br />
+Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The New Street of the Little Fields.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;And here&rsquo;s our wish, not rich and splendid,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; But still in comfortable ease,<br />
+The which in youth I oft attended<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; To eat a bowl of <i>bouillabaise</i>.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>But Marseilles lives on other things than its
+<i>bouillabaisse</i>&mdash;a rich soup or stew of all sorts of
+fish&mdash;not to be flippantly eaten, not to be lightly
+forgotten.&nbsp; Some 2,000 vessels fill its capacious
+harbour.&nbsp; In its lofty bonded warehouses are stored away the
+merchandise of many climes, and its soap-works and
+sugar-refineries are on an extensive scale.&nbsp; In short, it is
+the Liverpool of France; but, alas for the pride of the Mersey,
+how much cleaner, brighter, grander! how much purer the smokeless
+atmosphere! how much lovelier the outlook over sea and
+land!&nbsp; It was there that in 1797 that great French
+statesman, M. Adolphe Thiers, was born.&nbsp; That acute judge of
+men and books, Abraham Hayward, who was at Paris before Thiers
+had risen, as he did at a later time, describes him, in <a
+name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>1844, as
+&lsquo;a little, insignificant man, till he gets animated, but
+wonderfully clever.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>The one drawback to Marseilles, the only cloud in its blue
+sky, is the drink; and I am glad to find that there is a good man
+there, Pastor Lenoir, who has taken up temperance work, and has
+carried it on very successfully.&nbsp; Last year, for a novelty,
+in Marseilles he got up a temperance f&ecirc;te, which was a
+great success.&nbsp; During the last twenty years drinking has
+greatly increased, and the drink-shops as well.&nbsp; In 1876
+there were in Marseilles 2,460 drink-shops; now there are
+4,205&mdash;far too many, when we remember that the town has only
+600 bakers&rsquo; shops and only 500 schools.&nbsp; As a
+consequence, Dr. Rey shows that insanity has greatly increased,
+and that in the hospital of St. Pierre the proportion of insane
+patients whose disease can be traced to alcohol has increased
+from 15 per cent. to 31 per cent. of the patients admitted.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;The chief factor,&rsquo; he writes, &lsquo;of these mental
+diseases is alcohol, and especially when to its intoxicating
+effects is added that of absinthe, and other vegetable substances
+which produce epilepsy and other similar evils.&rsquo;&nbsp; In
+this respect, Marseilles teaches us a lesson which it is well to
+remember at home.</p>
+<p>In another way Marseilles is a lesson in favour of temperance
+work.&nbsp; In the district of Villette the drinking classes
+chiefly dwell.&nbsp; It is a narrow, dirty court, opening on a
+series of alleys; in the centre runs an open gutter&mdash;the
+only drainage of the place&mdash;while on either side are small
+one-storied houses, called <i>cabanons</i>, let for about eight
+shillings a month.&nbsp; They are let to the poorest of the poor,
+and abound with dirt and large families and drunkenness; the
+three in <a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+180</span>France, as in England, generally go hand in hand.&nbsp;
+The air is stifling, the odours insupportable; and when the sun
+pours down in the middle of summer, and the hot sirocco-like wind
+blows, the condition of matters is unbearable.&nbsp; As I write I
+see the people of Marseilles, in fear of the plague, will not
+permit travellers from the East, under any pretence whatever, to
+land there.&nbsp; They had much better look at home, and reform
+their own sanitary arrangements in such districts as
+Villette.&nbsp; It is there the good Protestant pastor,
+connected, I believe, with the McAll Mission in Paris, labours
+unweariedly with a band of fellow labourers as devoted as
+himself.&nbsp; I give the story of one of his rescued men, as an
+illustration of labour-life in the fair city of Marseilles:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;Thibaut is a strong, muscular man, who
+worked as a docker, and could carry 140 kilos of wool on his
+shoulders from six o&rsquo;clock to twelve o&rsquo;clock without
+taking rest.&nbsp; He was an inveterate drunkard, and had on one
+occasion swallowed <i>thirty-five glasses of absinthe</i>,
+<i>raw</i>, <i>in a day</i>.&nbsp; For thirty years he had never
+set foot in a church, and his wife had died from the effects of
+his ill-treatment.&nbsp; Once, in a fit of drunkenness, he threw
+all that was left of furniture in their miserable home into the
+street, including the stove, which was alight, and on which their
+bit of dinner was cooking.&nbsp; He dragged his wife when ill
+from her bed by her hair, and threw her into the street.&nbsp;
+The day of her death he was found drunk in a public-house, and he
+followed the remains to the grave reeling.&nbsp; He lived in the
+famous &ldquo;Grand Salon,&rdquo; in a miserable hut of planks,
+the most filthy hovel imaginable.&nbsp; Thibaut was not
+over-scrupulous as to how he got the drink, without <a
+name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>which he
+could not exist.&nbsp; There are many ways in which a docker can
+steal from the cargoes he discharges without being found
+out.&nbsp; For instance, there is a way of letting fall a case of
+wine or cognac, so as to break one bottle, the contents of which
+then can be quickly absorbed.&nbsp; Like most French workmen, he
+wore trousers very baggy at the top, and tied round the
+ankles.&nbsp; Such trousers can be made to hold about four pounds
+of tea or coffee, or such like, and many a time Thibaut has
+walked past the searchers at the dock-gates with his stock of
+groceries, and has never been detected.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>He was nearly falling a victim to his drunken habits more than
+once.&nbsp; They are now rejoicing over him at Marseilles, for he
+that was dead is now alive again.&nbsp; The lost one is
+found.</p>
+<p>If the traveller has time to spare, let him by all means pay
+Arles a visit, where there is a fine Roman amphitheatre, or
+rather the remains of one.&nbsp; Very early Arles became
+distinguished in Church history&mdash;I was going to say
+Christian history; but, alas, at that time the bitter disputes
+and dissensions in the Church bore little traces of the teachings
+or the example of Christ.&nbsp; In <span
+class="smcap">a.d.</span> 314, when, as Gibbon writes,
+Constantine was the protector, rather than the proselyte of
+Christianity, he referred the African controversy to the Council
+of Arles, in which the Bishops of York, of Treves, of Milan, and
+of Carthage, met as friends and brethren to debate, in their
+native tongue, on the common interests of the Latin or Western
+Church.&nbsp; One ancient writer says there were 600 bishops
+there, but this is probably an exaggerated account of their
+number.&nbsp; The subject, of course, was the nature of <a
+name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>the
+Trinity, the discussions on which, inflamed with passion, had
+filled the Churches with fury, and sedition, and schism&mdash;a
+fury which excites the wonder of the modern less heated Christian
+Church.</p>
+<p>It was at Arles, at a later period, Constantine repaired to
+celebrate in its palace, with intemperate luxury, a vain and
+ostentatious triumph&mdash;his military success against the
+Goths.&nbsp; It was at Arles, the seat at that time of government
+and commerce, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 418, that the
+Emperor Honorius, in a solemn address, filled with the strongest
+assurances of that paternal affection which, as Gibbon writes,
+sovereigns so often express but rarely feel, convened an annual
+assembly consisting of the Pretorian Prefect of the Gauls; of
+seven provincial governors, one consular and six presidents; of
+the magistrates, and perhaps the bishops, of sixty cities; and of
+an indefinite number of leading landed proprietors.&nbsp; They
+were empowered to interpret the laws of their sovereign, to
+expose the wishes and grievances of their constituents, to
+moderate the excessive or unequal weight of taxes, and to
+deliberate on every subject of local and national importance that
+would tend to the restoration of peace and prosperity to the
+seven provinces.&nbsp; It was a step in the right
+direction.&nbsp; It was a step that might have tended, if
+universally followed, at any rate, to retard the decay and
+decline of the Roman Empire.&nbsp; But the Emperor found that the
+people were not ready to accept the proffered boon.&nbsp; A fine
+of three, or even five, ounces of gold was imposed on the absent
+representatives.&nbsp; Honorius was in advance of his
+age&mdash;in politics as great a blunder as being behind
+it.&nbsp; It was not till centuries of oppression and
+misgovernment that the rights of man were <a
+name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>practically
+won for France, and that Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity became
+the watchwords of the people.</p>
+<p>Arles was very early peopled by a colony from Central Italy,
+and very remarkable is the physique of its inhabitants.&nbsp; The
+late Lord Malmesbury, Lord Derby&rsquo;s Minister of Foreign
+Affairs, writes: &lsquo;The women are remarkably handsome, but
+entirely of the Etruscan type, with magnificent dark hair and
+eyes, good teeth, and fair complexions.&nbsp; They have beautiful
+round throats, set on fine shoulders and busts, but their legs
+are much too short for their general build.&rsquo;&nbsp; I am, of
+course, not a judge of such matters, and I prefer to copy from
+Lord Malmesbury, who, as a Foreign Minister and a frequent guest
+both at the Courts of England and France, and a high-born
+aristocrat as well, had opportunities for the pleasing study of
+woman far superior to any possessed by an ordinary scribe.&nbsp;
+He had a good opportunity of seeing the population, as it was a
+f&ecirc;te day when he favoured the city with his presence.&nbsp;
+He continues: &lsquo;There were games in the square, such as
+climbing a greased pole for a leg of mutton placed at the top,
+which no one succeeded in winning.&nbsp; The women were all in
+costume, with black veils, worn like the mantilla.&nbsp; I
+noticed that the men were remarkably plain, sallow, under-sized
+and narrow-chested&mdash;in every way a remarkable contrast to
+the women.&rsquo;&nbsp; As indeed they are, or ought to be, all
+the world over.</p>
+<p>In the neighbourhood is a hermit&rsquo;s cell, very curiously
+contrived in the rock, where there was a secret way of escaping
+to the deeper recesses and hiding in case of danger.&nbsp; There
+was the stone bed of the hermit who is said to have been the
+first to introduce Christianity <a name="page184"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 184</span>into the province.&nbsp; His name is
+held in high esteem and a church is dedicated to his
+memory.&nbsp; It was upon the plains adjoining that Charles
+Martel gained his final victory over the Saracens.&nbsp; The
+Roman amphitheatre in Arles is in a fine state of preservation,
+with towers added in the Middle Ages.</p>
+<p>Soldiers have a mission hall to themselves in Marseilles,
+which is full of them, and to the hall many come for peace and
+light.&nbsp; The aggregate attendance is set down at nearly
+6,000.&nbsp; The hall offers them a warm, comfortable room, well
+lighted, with books, games, newspapers, and other
+conveniences.&nbsp; A lady gives them elementary lessons in
+French, arithmetic, reading, and writing.&nbsp; When the soldiers
+sailed to Madagascar they took with them, in spite of the
+priests, 3,000 copies of the New Testament.&nbsp; The labours of
+the agents of the McAll Mission are numerous and
+persevering.&nbsp; Last year they held about 500 meetings for
+adults.&nbsp; They have five schools for children, besides two
+sewing schools for girls.&nbsp; There are three mothers&rsquo;
+meetings, with a fair attendance, and a mission choir does good
+work.</p>
+<p>Of more recent formation, and perhaps less well known, is the
+Society of Christian Endeavour.&nbsp; It has given proof of its
+existence in various ways.&nbsp; It was the Endeavourers who
+organized four series of lectures, of three each, which were
+given in the halls of the Grand Chemin de Toulon and the
+Boulevard de Strasbourg.&nbsp; Friends were much encouraged to
+see each time a large and attentive audience; the lectures had
+been announced by means of handbills distributed in profusion
+throughout the district.&nbsp; The society takes charge also of
+the visitation of the sick, and the <a name="page185"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 185</span>distribution of tracts in the
+suburbs, at the gates of the factories and workshops, etc.&nbsp;
+Some of the sisters have taken to heart the work among fallen
+women, and in one case, at least, they have been able to snatch
+one of these poor creatures from her life of sin, and place her
+in a neighbouring refuge.&nbsp; And so good work gets done,
+quietly and unobtrusively.</p>
+<p>There were put in circulation last year through the Librairie
+Evang&eacute;lique 12,000 almanacks, 4,500 Bibles and Testaments,
+1,000 tracts, 1,000 books of various kinds, and 600 copies of the
+<i>Rel&eacute;vement</i>.&nbsp; Open Bibles and Testaments are
+constantly displayed also in the large shop-window, where the
+passers-by can stop and read at their leisure&mdash;a thing which
+a goodly number of them do not fail to do.&nbsp; Nor are the
+Italians, of whom there are many in the town, overlooked.&nbsp;
+But I pass on</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;To kinder skies, where gentler manners
+reign,<br />
+I turn, and France displays her bright domain;<br />
+Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease,<br />
+Pleased with thyself whom all the world can please.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>And pleasant recollections come to us of Oliver Goldsmith,
+who, as he tells us, oft led</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lsquo;The
+sportive choir<br />
+With tuneless pipe beside the murmuring Loire.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The traveller who does as the writer did&mdash;leaves the
+train at Marseilles, and travels home slowly, will find as much
+pleasure in that little trip as in any part of his pilgrimage to
+the East.</p>
+<h2><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+186</span>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">AVIGNON.</p>
+<p>Leaving Marseilles, the place at which I tarried next was
+Avignon, where I had comfortable and cheap quarters at the
+H&ocirc;tel Grillon.&nbsp; It was there I saw the only drunken
+man that came under my notice in France.&nbsp; It was market-day,
+and the town was full of country-folk, many of whom came to my
+hotel for the excellent <i>d&eacute;jeuner</i> provided for
+guests; amongst then was an individual&mdash;not a farmer, for he
+did not wear a blouse&mdash;who managed, in spite of the fact
+that he had had quite enough, to consume the quart bottle of
+<i>vin ordinaire</i> which, in French country hotels, every one
+is supposed to take at lunch and drink.&nbsp; The allowance was
+too much for me.&nbsp; The lunch in every case was so excellent
+and tempting that I could not manage another heavy meal, and was
+glad to content myself with tea.&nbsp; One thing surprised me at
+all the country hotels, and that was the predominance of the
+military element.&nbsp; At every meal there were great numbers of
+officers present, and, so far as I could judge by the way in
+which these sons of Mars did justice to the good things provided,
+all in first-rate physical condition.&nbsp; <a
+name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>Avignon is
+full of soldiers&mdash;we met them everywhere.&nbsp; All round
+the place the old walls seemed turned into barracks.</p>
+<p>I stopped at Avignon to see the burial-place of John Stuart
+Mill.&nbsp; He was fond of Avignon, and spent a great deal of his
+life there.&nbsp; I am afraid, on the whole, he was rather a
+hard, cold man.&nbsp; He had a sister living in Paris, but, often
+as he passed through it, he never went to see her.&nbsp; I
+suppose he had learnt a good deal from Godwin&rsquo;s
+&lsquo;Political Justice,&rsquo; which had a great influence at
+one time among superior people, I remember, when I read it many
+years ago.&nbsp; You never see the book now.&nbsp; Godwin shows
+how wrong is the indulgence of social and family affection.&nbsp;
+Perhaps the philosopher&rsquo;s way of looking at such things is
+the right one, after all.&nbsp; As I was sitting with a friend, a
+philosopher, on board the <i>Midnight Sun</i>, a gentleman, to
+whom we were neither of us particularly attached, passed
+us.&nbsp; &lsquo;I think I could save that man&rsquo;s
+life,&rsquo; I said.&nbsp; &lsquo;Why should you?&rsquo; he
+asked; &lsquo;ought we not to think of the greatest happiness of
+the greatest number?&rsquo;&nbsp; The reply was irresistible, and
+I acquiesced.&nbsp; &lsquo;Is it not the survival of the
+fittest,&rsquo; I asked myself, &lsquo;that best accords with
+Nature&rsquo;s scheme?&nbsp; &ldquo;If,&rdquo; says Godwin,
+&ldquo;you are in a boat with your father and a philosopher, and
+you meet with an accident, you are to save the philosopher and
+leave your father to perish.&rdquo;&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Mill&rsquo;s philosophy seems to have been of a similar
+character.&nbsp; At any rate, his sister&rsquo;s husband
+complained much, to an acquaintance of mine, of the
+philosopher&rsquo;s neglect.&nbsp; But his worship of Mrs.
+Taylor, who afterwards became his wife, was intense.&nbsp; They
+<a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>sleep
+together in the same grave in the cemetery, a mile or two out of
+Avignon.&nbsp; On the tomb is the inscription: &lsquo;John Stuart
+Mill, born 20 May, 1806, died 4 May, 1873,&rsquo; and that is
+all.&nbsp; On the surface of the tomb&mdash;a plain white flat
+one&mdash;is a long eulogium of his wife, who had died before
+him.&nbsp; Her influence, the inscription records, has been felt
+in many of the greatest improvements of the age, and will be felt
+in time to come.&nbsp; Following her life, we are told, this
+earth would become the type of heaven.&nbsp; Her death is
+described as &lsquo;an irreparable loss.&rsquo;&nbsp; The grave
+is separated by an iron rail from the rest, and is fringed with a
+few evergreens.&nbsp; It is plain and simple, and certainly much
+more in accordance with English taste than the rest.</p>
+<p>One should visit the cemetery, if only to see what a French
+cemetery is&mdash;all glitter and glass, for many of the flowers
+placed on the tombs are under glass, and the place was quite
+dazzling in the summer&mdash;or, rather, the
+autumn&mdash;sun.&nbsp; The ground is carefully laid out, and
+well planted with trees and flowering shrubs.&nbsp; It seems to
+me of considerable extent, and people come there every day to
+place fresh flowers on the graves of those they love.&nbsp; It
+was early in the morning when I was there, yet a good many ladies
+were engaged in their pious work.&nbsp; By most of the graves
+were chairs placed for the mourners, who love to repair to such a
+place.&nbsp; It is evident that family affection is strong in
+France.</p>
+<p>Avignon, I should think, is a pleasant place in which to
+reside, with its mild atmosphere and a nice country all
+round.&nbsp; There is a broad promenade (if a short one), with a
+monument to a native worthy, and trees; <a
+name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>
+<a href="images/p189b.jpg">
+<img class='floatleft' alt=
+"The Castle of the Popes, Avignon.  From Cassell&rsquo;s
+&lsquo;Cities of the World.&rsquo;"
+title=
+"The Castle of the Popes, Avignon.  From Cassell&rsquo;s
+&lsquo;Cities of the World.&rsquo;"
+src="images/p189s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>but
+away in the interior the streets are narrow and
+ill-fashioned.&nbsp; It boasts a cathedral, a museum, and an
+H&ocirc;tel de Ville, and tramcars run backward and forward all
+day long.&nbsp; In the early days of the French Revolution it was
+all for union and the &lsquo;Contrat Social&rsquo; of the worthy
+Jean Jacques Rousseau; and yet it burst forth with its 15,000
+brave brigands, headed by Jourdain.&nbsp; In 1789 the French
+Assembly declared that Avignon and the Comtat were incorporated
+with France, and that His Holiness the Pope should say what
+indemnity was reasonable.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Papal Avignon,&rsquo; writes Carlyle, in his wonderful
+&lsquo;French Revolution,&rsquo; &lsquo;with its castle rising
+sheer over the Rhone-stream; beautifullest town, with its purple
+vines and gold-orange groves; why must foolish old rhyming
+R&eacute;n&eacute;, the last sovereign of Provence, bequeath it
+to the Pope and gold tiara&mdash;not rather to Louis XI. with the
+Leaden Virgin in his hatband?&nbsp; For good and for evil!&nbsp;
+Popes, Antipopes, with their pomp, have dwelt in the Castle of
+Avignon rising sheer over the Rhone-stream; there Laura de Sade
+went to hear Mass; her Petrarch twanging and singing by the
+Fountain of Vaucluse hard by, surely in a most melancholy
+manner.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Speaking of Petrarch, naturally one&rsquo;s thoughts turn to
+Rienzi, the Italian liberator, who fell because the Roman people
+were not at that time prepared for freedom.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;When,&rsquo; writes Lord Lytton, in his splendid novel,
+&lsquo;Rienzi,&rsquo; &lsquo;the capital of the C&aelig;sars
+witnessed the triumph of Petrarch, the scholastic fame of the
+young Rienzi had attracted the friendship of the poet&mdash;a
+friendship that continued, with a slight exception, to the
+last.&rsquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+191</span>Rienzi was one of the Roman deputies who had been sent
+to Avignon to supplicate Clement VI. to remove the Holy See back
+to Rome.&nbsp; It was on this mission that Rienzi for the first
+time gave indication of his extraordinary power of eloquence and
+persuasion.&nbsp; The pontiff, indeed, more desirous of ease than
+glory, was not convinced by the arguments, but he was enchanted
+with the pleader, and Rienzi returned to Rome laden with honours
+and clothed with the dignity of high and responsible
+office.&nbsp; No longer the inactive scholar, the gay companion,
+he rose at once to pre-eminence amongst all his
+fellow-citizens.&nbsp; Never before had authority been borne with
+so austere an integrity, so uncorrupt a zeal.&nbsp; He had
+thought to impregnate his colleagues with the same loftiness of
+principle, but in this respect he had failed.&nbsp; Now, secure
+in his footing, he had begun openly to appeal to the people, and
+already a new spirit seemed to animate the populace of
+Rome.&nbsp; According to modern historians, Petrarch and Rienzi
+went to Avignon together, but, says Lord Lytton, it was more
+probable that Rienzi&rsquo;s mission was posterior to that of
+Petrarch.&nbsp; However that may be, it was at Avignon that
+Petrarch and Rienzi became most intimate, as Petrarch observes in
+one of his letters.&nbsp; Perhaps it would have been better for
+Italy and better for the Roman Catholic Church had they never
+returned to Rome.&nbsp; If the reader doubts this, let him read
+Zola&rsquo;s &lsquo;Rome.&rsquo;&nbsp; It was in 1309 that
+Clement moved his Court thither, and for sixty-eight years, until
+1377, Avignon continued to be the Papal residence.&nbsp; The six
+successors of Clement V., all of them Frenchmen, like himself,
+were regarded by the Italians with feelings of dislike <a
+name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>and
+contempt.&nbsp; They were little more than the ecclesiastical
+agents of the French monarchy.</p>
+<p>The climax in the history of Avignon was reached when, in
+1309, Clement V. removed thither from Rome, and made Avignon the
+seat of the Roman Pontiff and the metropolis of
+Christendom.&nbsp; By land, by sea, by the Rhone&mdash;the
+position of Avignon, writes Gibbon, was at all times
+accessible&mdash;the southern provinces of France do not yield to
+Italy itself; new palaces arose for the accommodation of the Pope
+and Cardinals, and the arts of luxury were soon attracted by the
+treasures of the Church.&nbsp; A part of the adjoining country
+had long belonged to the Popes, and the sovereignty of Avignon
+was purchased from the youth and distress of Jane, the first
+Queen of Naples and Countess of Provence.</p>
+<p>Under the shadow of the French monarchy, amidst an obedient
+people, the Popes enjoyed a tranquillity to which they had long
+been strangers.&nbsp; Italy deplored their loss, but the Sacred
+College was filled with French Cardinals, who regarded Rome and
+Italy with abhorrence and contempt.&nbsp; What remains of the
+Papal Palace is now turned into barracks, of which you get a good
+view from the station as you leave for Lyons or Paris.&nbsp; Dr.
+Arnold, who paid it a passing visit, was struck with horror by
+the sight of its dungeons.&nbsp; From Avignon the Pope prosecuted
+a bitter persecution of his neighbours, the Waldenses.&nbsp; The
+King of France was alarmed, and sent an officer to inquire into
+the matter.&nbsp; The report was favourable.&nbsp;
+&lsquo;Then,&rsquo; said the King, &lsquo;they are much better
+Christians than myself or Catholic subjects, and therefore they
+shall not be persecuted.&rsquo;&nbsp; He was as good as his <a
+name="page193"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 193</span>word, and
+the Pope at Avignon had for a time to forbear, or Avignon might
+have had as bloody a record as Rome itself.&nbsp; But at Avignon
+they do not think of these things.&nbsp; All round the old city
+are the mulberry trees and the silkworms; and the farmers want
+protection for their native industry, and to keep foreign raw
+silk out of the market.</p>
+<h2><a name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+194</span>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">THE GREAT CITY OF LYONS.</p>
+<p>In one of the first books which used to be placed in the hands
+of young people when I was a lad&mdash;Fox&rsquo;s &lsquo;Book of
+Martyrs&rsquo;&mdash;we get rather an unpleasant idea of
+Lyons.&nbsp; &lsquo;There,&rsquo; writes old Fox, &lsquo;the
+martyrs were condemned to sit in iron chains till their flesh
+broiled.&nbsp; Some were sewn up in nets and thrown on the horns
+of wild bulls, and the carcases of those who died in prison
+previous to the time of execution were thrown to dogs.&nbsp;
+Indeed, so far did the malice of pagans proceed that they set
+guards over the bodies while the beasts were devouring them, lest
+the friends of the deceased should get them by stealth, and the
+offal not devoured by the dogs was ordered to be
+burnt.&rsquo;&nbsp; After this we get a little indignant as we
+turn to Gibbon, and read of the mild and beneficent spirit of the
+ancient polytheism, which seems to find such favour in his
+eyes.&nbsp; To-day all is changed.&nbsp; Christians, in the shape
+of Roman Catholics, have it all their own way; yet one of the
+handsomest places of worship I saw was that of the Reformed
+Church.&nbsp; One of the earliest reformers, Waldo, the leader of
+the Albigenses, was born at Lyons.</p>
+<p><a name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 195</span>The
+McAll Mission is doing a good work at Lyons, though in some
+districts they have to report a falling off.&nbsp; They seek to
+get hold of the children, but they find in this respect the
+priests are as active as themselves.&nbsp; By means of the
+<i>&oelig;uvres de patronage</i> founded by the Catholics many of
+the children are drawn away.&nbsp; In one of the immense remote
+suburbs of Lyons the mothers&rsquo; meeting plays an important
+part in the work of evangelization.&nbsp; In many quarters
+Bible-readings have been found to be very successful, and there
+is a Y.M.C.A., to which many young men belong.&nbsp; As a rule,
+French Protestantism is not aggressive, else it would not be what
+it is to-day.&nbsp; Still, during the last few years the churches
+have waked up wonderfully, and much good has been the
+result.&nbsp; Be this as it may, Lyons is the finest city next to
+Paris that France can boast of.&nbsp; It has a population of
+about half a million, and the Rhone runs through it, adding much
+to its picturesqueness, as its banks are lined with stately
+houses and offices and shops.&nbsp; There are some twenty bridges
+over the river, most of them very handsome.&nbsp; At night you
+seem a little lonely as you watch the long rows of lamps that
+glitter along the banks.&nbsp; But by day the picture is
+reversed: there is busy life everywhere, and so clean and
+handsome are the buildings that you can scarcely realize that
+Lyons is planted with silk-mills, and that, in fact, it is the
+centre of the great silk trade of France.&nbsp; The trees,
+planted everywhere on the quays, which are used as promenades,
+make it a very charming residence.</p>
+<p>Lyons has a very ancient history.&nbsp; It was adorned by
+successive Roman Emperors, and became the capital of Gaul.&nbsp;
+It was the principal mart for the <a name="page196"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 196</span>Western provinces of the
+Empire.&nbsp; Agrippa made it the starting-point for four great
+military roads that traversed Gaul.&nbsp; Suddenly it
+disappeared.&nbsp; As Seneca writes: &lsquo;There was but one
+night between a great city and nothing.&rsquo;&nbsp; Aided by
+Nero, however, it speedily rose from its ashes.&nbsp; The city
+fared badly in the decline and fall of the Roman Empire.&nbsp;
+Alaric, the scourge of God, sacked it.&nbsp; In 571 the Lombards
+ravaged it; in 715 the Saracens appeared, and left it a heap of
+ruins.&nbsp; Under Charlemagne it became a city of light and
+learning.&nbsp; Towards the end of the ninth century it came
+under the rule of the Archbishops and Chapter of St. John.&nbsp;
+In 1312 Philip le Bel annexed the city to France.&nbsp; The Lyons
+of to-day is a stately city, splendidly situated at the junction
+of the Rhone and the Saone&mdash;a junction which gave the great
+Pitt a fine passage in one of his finest speeches.</p>
+<p>The Lyonnais, says the writer of an excellent account of Lyons
+in Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Cities of the World,&rsquo; think the
+Place Bellecour the finest square in Europe.&nbsp; It is planted
+with trees, and ornamented with basins and fountains and two
+elegant pavilions, and is a very favourite promenade of the
+people of Lyons, especially when the military band plays.&nbsp;
+According to some, the name is derived from <i>bella curia</i>,
+and denotes the site of a Roman tribunal.&nbsp; In the Middle
+Ages the Place was a muddy swamp, often covered by the waters of
+the Rhone; it was gradually drained and improved by the
+Consulate, and surrounded with fine buildings.&nbsp; After the
+Peace of Utrecht, a bronze statue of Louis le Grand&mdash;the
+King who, by revoking the Edict of Nantes, nearly ruined Lyons,
+to please the Maintenon and her Jesuit <a
+name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span>
+<a href="images/p197b.jpg">
+<img class='floatright' alt=
+"The Place Belleour, Lyons.  (From Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Cities
+of the World.&rsquo;)"
+title=
+"The Place Belleour, Lyons.  (From Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Cities
+of the World.&rsquo;)"
+src="images/p197s.jpg" />
+</a><a name="page198"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+198</span>friends&mdash;was set up in the centre.&nbsp; At the
+Revolution of 1792 the statue was pulled down and broken
+up.&nbsp; Some proposed simply to replace the King&rsquo;s head
+with a head of Brutus, but the multitude would not hear of
+it.&nbsp; On this spot perished some of the first victims of the
+fusillade in the terrible siege by the Republican army in the
+following year.&nbsp; When the siege was over, Couthon set his
+troop of <i>d&eacute;molisseurs</i> to work, and the beautiful
+fa&ccedil;ades of the Place Bellecour were soon irretrievably
+ruined, and the subsequent erections have not reproduced the
+monumental character of the original buildings.&nbsp; The Place
+was still covered with d&eacute;bris when, in April, 1805, the
+populace of the city, upon their knees, received the blessing of
+Pope Pius VII., who was then in France as the half-guest,
+half-prisoner, of Napoleon.&nbsp; On March 11, 1815, the Orleans
+princes hastened from the town as the advance guard of Napoleon,
+returning from Elba, was crossing the Pont de la
+Guilloti&egrave;re.&nbsp; On the morrow the Emperor reviewed
+15,000 soldiers in the Place Bellecour, amidst the acclamations
+of the populace.&nbsp; But the Empire passed away, and in 1825
+the restored King placed a second statue of Louis XIV. in the
+centre of the Place.</p>
+<p>Churches abound in Lyons.&nbsp; One of them, that of St.
+Nizien, in memory of a bishop of that name, is placed on the spot
+where one of its martyr bishops, St. Pothinus, assembled his
+flock.&nbsp; It has been rebuilt many times, and is interesting
+not only as the cradle of Christianity in Lyons&mdash;it was also
+the cradle of its civil liberty.&nbsp; Here the growing commune
+met in the days of its resistance to the bishops, and the bell of
+the ancient tower used to call the citizens together to elect <a
+name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 199</span>their
+magistrate.&nbsp; Near the Church of Ainay was the ancient Forum,
+where Greeks, Orientals, Africans, Gauls, and Spaniards met to
+exchange the products of their various commerce.&nbsp; In the
+Forum was an altar dedicated to the Emperor Augustus and Rome,
+and near it was the Temple of Augustus.&nbsp; In the church was
+sacredly preserved some hair of the Virgin Mary, and part of the
+cradle and some of the swaddling clothes of our Saviour.&nbsp; In
+the western part of the city, beyond the Saone, are found some
+very interesting churches.&nbsp; St. Ir&eacute;n&eacute;e was
+built by the Bishop St. Patient in the fifth century.&nbsp; In
+the crypt is a well into which, according to tradition, the
+bodies of 19,000 Christians were thrown when the Emperor Severus
+revenged himself on Lyons for its adherence to the cause of
+Albinus.&nbsp; Nearer to the river stands the Church of St.
+Just.&nbsp; In connection with it was a vast monastery, with
+massive walls and towers.&nbsp; In its cloisters many sovereigns
+found a safe asylum.&nbsp; Innocent IV. was one, another was the
+Regent Louise, while her son Francis I. was fighting in Italy,
+and here she received the famous letter after the Battle of
+Pavia: &lsquo;All is lost except honour.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Still nearer to the river stands the Church of St. Jean
+Baptiste, the Cathedral of Lyons.&nbsp; In one of the chapels
+attached to the church was some wood of the true cross; in
+another is preserved the heart of St. Vincent de Paul.&nbsp; The
+Chapter of the Cathedral of Lyons was the most important body of
+clergy in France; they were thirty-two in number, all Counts of
+Lyons, the rank of Premier Canon being held by the reigning King
+of France.&nbsp; Amongst the remarkable events that have occurred
+here was the Council <a name="page200"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 200</span>General of 1245, when Innocent IV.
+hurled the thunders of the Church against Frederick II., and
+where, for the first time, the Cardinals wore the red dress to
+distinguish them from other prelates.&nbsp; In 1274 a Council
+General held here formed a short-lived union of the Latin and
+Greek Churches.&nbsp; In this church Henry II., Emperor of
+Germany, performed mass, in one of his efforts to desert his
+throne and take Holy Orders.&nbsp; And here, in 1600, Henry of
+Navarre renewed his marriage with Marie de Medicis.&nbsp; Close
+by is the Archiepiscopal Palace, the magnificent apartments of
+which have accommodated many kings and queens and eminent
+personages.&nbsp; Napoleon passed a night here on his return from
+Elba.&nbsp; On that awful St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s Day, in the
+courtyard of the Palace, 300 Protestants were murdered.</p>
+<p>Thence you ascend by steep and narrow steps to the Church of
+Notre Dame, on the hill of St. Fourvi&egrave;res.&nbsp; All round
+are priestly residences and numerous shop for the sale of
+ecclesiastical millinery.&nbsp; Higher up are the merchants who
+deal in rosaries, devotional pictures, medals, and wax models of
+different parts of the body, for offerings in the church, when
+the time comes for the multitudes of pilgrims who throng thither
+to obtain pardon of sin and restoration of health.&nbsp; One
+would have thought that an anachronism in the France of to-day;
+but we know how credulity reigns rampant, in spite of the
+philosopher, in every nation in the world.&nbsp; It was our
+Thomas &agrave; Becket, who spent part of an exile in Lyons, who
+seems to have suggested a church on this spot.&nbsp; In 1643
+Lyons was ravaged by a terrible pest, and the municipality
+dedicated Lyons to Notre Dame in perpetuity, and until <a
+name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 201</span>the
+Revolution of 1789 the whole city celebrated, on the Feast of the
+Nativity, the anniversary of the event.&nbsp; Pope Pius, in 1805,
+superintended the rededication of the building to Divine worship,
+and, amidst a grand display of flags, discharge of cannon, and
+ringing of bells from the summit of the hill, blessed the city of
+Lyons, as Innocent had done centuries before.&nbsp; In December,
+1852, Lyons was <i>en f&ecirc;te</i> day and night, on the
+occasion of the planting of a colossal statue of the Virgin on
+the top of the tower.&nbsp; Like ancient Ephesus, it lived on its
+saints.&nbsp; Happily, unlike Ephesus, it stuck to trade, and
+became wealthy, and populous, and great.&nbsp; The Quai de St.
+Clair is the finest in Lyons, and was formerly the rendezvous of
+merchants and foreigners, and the centre of Lyonese trade.&nbsp;
+One of the many quays in Lyons, that known as Les Etroit, a
+charming promenade, is associated with the memory of Rousseau, in
+the days of his youthful poverty.</p>
+<p>Its modern H&ocirc;tel de Ville is held to be one of the
+handsomest in Europe, and that is saying a great deal when we
+think of Brussels or Louvain.&nbsp; Its cathedral of St. Jean
+Baptiste took three centuries to build.&nbsp; The city is one of
+the Roman Catholic strongholds, and to some of its churches
+resort every year as many as 1,500,000 pilgrims, who obtain
+similar privileges to those accorded to the devotees at
+Loretto.</p>
+<p>Now that Lyons is at peace, it exports to England, America,
+and Russia, manufactured silks to the amount of &pound;18,000,000
+yearly.&nbsp; It is to Jacquard that it owes its silk
+manufacture, and a statue of him properly graces the city.&nbsp;
+For many years it had been renowned for its manufactures, but in
+1802, a workman originally, Jacquard lived to revolutionize <a
+name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 202</span>the silk
+trade, and laid the foundation of its present prosperity.&nbsp;
+Its workshops for the construction of machinery, its
+manufactories of chemical products and coloured papers, are
+justly celebrated; but it is from the production of its silk
+fabrics that Lyons derives its chief fame.&nbsp; This industry,
+in which Lyons has no rival, was first brought from Italy.&nbsp;
+Florentines, Genoese, and others, driven away by revolutions, did
+for France what in after-times expatriated Frenchmen did for
+other countries to which they were compelled to flee by reason of
+tyranny at home.&nbsp; By decree of Louis XI., experienced
+workmen settling at Lyons were exempt from taxes levied on other
+inhabitants.&nbsp; Twelve thousand silk-weavers were busy at work
+in Lyons by the middle of the sixteenth century.&nbsp; At the
+Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, it seemed as if the silk
+industry was about to be annihilated.&nbsp; More than
+three-fourths of the looms were silenced; but in the course of a
+couple of generations the industry resumed its former
+proportions, and steadily increased, till Lyons became <i>par
+excellence</i> the city of beautiful silks.&nbsp; The Lyonnese
+silk-weavers mostly work in their own dwellings.&nbsp; A man with
+his family will keep from two to six or eight looms going, often
+employing journeymen.&nbsp; The silk-merchants of Lyons, about
+600 in number, supply the patterns and the silk; there are about
+40,000 looms at work in the city and in the vicinity.&nbsp;
+Formerly, the weavers were nearly all grouped together in the
+northern part of the city, but the employers, in order to lessen
+the influence of the close trade organizations, have succeeded in
+distributing the industry throughout the neighbouring villages,
+though La Croix-Rousse <a name="page203"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 203</span>still holds the lion&rsquo;s
+share.&nbsp; Its silks still maintain their prestige.&nbsp; The
+Empress of Germany last year purchased at Lyons white silk, with
+flowers, birds, and foliage in relief, at twenty-five pounds a
+yard, five-sixths of the price being the actual value of the raw
+silk.&nbsp; She intended to have a dress made of it, but it was
+so beautiful that she used it for a curtain.&nbsp; This is
+believed to be the highest priced silk goods ever made.&nbsp;
+Louis XIV. paid twelve pounds a yard for the cloth-of-gold
+material of which his dressing-gown was made.&nbsp; Lyons has
+been the birthplace of many distinguished and illustrious
+personages&mdash;Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius and Marcus
+Aurelius, the philosopher-king; the ruler who preferred the
+solitude of the student to the splendour of the palace; the
+soldier who loved the arts of peace better than the glory of war;
+who left to the world his &lsquo;Meditations,&rsquo; which, even
+at this era of the world&rsquo;s history, it does us good to
+read.&nbsp; Another native of Lyons whose works were at one time
+much read in England was J. B. Say, the famous political
+writer.&nbsp; Another of the modern glories of Lyons was Louise
+Lab&eacute;, the Lyons Sappho, surnamed La Belle
+Cordi&egrave;re.&nbsp; Another was Roland, the great statesman,
+the husband of a yet more illustrious wife.&nbsp; Iren&aelig;us,
+Bishop of Lyons, was one of the victims of what Fox terms the
+fifth general persecution, and it is generally supposed that the
+account of the persecution in Lyons was written by him.&nbsp; He
+was beheaded in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 202.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Lyons,&rsquo; says the Guide-Book, &lsquo;embraced with
+ardour the cause of the Revolution, and it suffered frightfully
+in consequence; but the Patriots knew nothing of the dark days to
+come, as they formed <a name="page204"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 204</span>one bright May morning the
+Federation of Lyons, in which some fifty or sixty thousand of its
+citizens took part.&nbsp; What a picture Carlyle gives us of the
+Lyons guardsmen meeting at five on the Quai de Rhone, marching
+thence to the Federation Field, amid waving of hats and
+ladies&rsquo; handkerchiefs, great shoutings of some two hundred
+thousand patriot voices and hearts&mdash;the beautiful and brave!
+&lsquo;amongst whom, courting no notice, and yet notablest of
+all, what queen-like figure is this, with her escort of house
+friends and Champagneux, the Patriot editor?&nbsp; Radiant with
+enthusiasm are those dark eyes in that strong Minerva face,
+looking dignity and earnest joy&mdash;joy-fullest she where all
+is joyful!&nbsp; It is Roland de Plati&egrave;re&rsquo;s wife;
+that elderly Roland, King&rsquo;s inspector of manufactures here,
+and now likewise, by popular choice, the strictest of our new
+Lyons Municipals&mdash;a man who has gained much, if worth and
+faculty be gain; but, above all things, has gained to wife
+Philipon, the Paris engraver&rsquo;s daughter.&nbsp; Reader, mark
+that queen-like burgher woman, beautiful, graceful to the eye,
+much more so to the mind.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Lyons had a bitter awakening&mdash;famine, ruin, and despair;
+a long siege and an awful doom.&nbsp; The cry in Paris is,
+&lsquo;Lyons has rebelled against the Republic; Lyons is no
+more.&rsquo;&nbsp; The infamous Fouch&eacute; is there, and the
+hangman follows.&nbsp; There is no end to the fusillading and
+filibustering, and mangled corpses float down the Rhone.&nbsp;
+The picture is too awful; let us draw the curtain, and think of
+Madame Roland, as in her grace and glory she helped to
+give&mdash;alas! in vain&mdash;freedom to Lyons and to
+France.&nbsp; I think of her as I take the train, and bid adieu
+to a city so splendid <a name="page205"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 205</span>and so replete with associations,
+some pleasant, others much the reverse.&nbsp; Under the Consulate
+and the Empire Lyons once more rose to life and prosperity.&nbsp;
+Bonaparte did much for the city in the way of restoration.&nbsp;
+In 1829 General La Fayette, that mild, well-meaning, but mistaken
+man, came there to receive an ovation.&nbsp; Once more Lyons
+throbbed with joy.&nbsp; But its troubles were not over.&nbsp; In
+1831 the workmen rose in revolution, and the Duke of Orleans and
+Marshal Soult had to come there to put it down.&nbsp; This was
+followed by a disastrous inundation, and in 1849, and again in
+1870, it was on the point of and was in connection with the
+Commune of Paris, which had active agents there.&nbsp; The French
+<i>ouvrier</i> is always discontented, and has no faith in God;
+yet Lyons is still the second city of France, in spite of the
+fact that not long since the President of the French Republic was
+assassinated there.</p>
+<h2><a name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+206</span>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">DIJON, OR THE WINE COUNTRY.</p>
+<p>As an illustration of what a French provincial town is in the
+way of hotels, I would take Dijon, where I stopped a night on my
+way from Lyons to Paris.&nbsp; From Marseilles to Dijon the
+country is interesting, giving fine views of the valley of the
+Loire and hills and mountains far away.&nbsp; From thence to
+Paris the ride is uninteresting.&nbsp; I suppose a great many
+people stop at Dijon, as it abounds in magnificent hotels, all of
+which seem to flourish.&nbsp; I put up at the H&ocirc;tel de
+Jura, close to the railway-station, and I feel as proud as a lord
+as I enjoy the luxury of that well-appointed hotel.&nbsp; My
+bedroom is delicious, very unlike that of an English hotel.&nbsp;
+Everyone in the house seems smiling and civil.&nbsp; The
+dining-room is large and lofty, the cuisine is excellent, and the
+smoking-room is elegantly furnished, as much so as a drawing-room
+in England.&nbsp; I feel that I am in France, and that there they
+manage better than they do with us.&nbsp; I go into the shop, and
+the shopkeeper and his men all wear the blue blouse of the
+country.&nbsp; If I buy anything, it is done up for me in the
+most careful manner, and so profuse are the thanks of the
+shopkeeper and his wife that I leave with a <a
+name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 207</span>feeling
+that my visit has been a real benefit to the town.</p>
+<p>There is much to see in Dijon; it is an ancient city, formerly
+the capital of Burgundy, and still the headquarters of its
+extensive wine trade.&nbsp; Let us hope that the dealers are
+honest men, as burgundy is much in demand in my native
+land.&nbsp; What I have at the hotel is excellent and cheap, and
+this is the great difficulty in France in the way of any national
+temperance movement.&nbsp; Like the Cape, like Australia, the
+wine trade is an important factor in the national life.&nbsp; It
+is the Diana of the Ephesians.&nbsp; Try to check it, and
+everyone is up in arms.&nbsp; The traveller is bound to
+drink.&nbsp; At lunch he has a quart bottle of red or white wine
+placed before him, and it is just the same at dinner.&nbsp; The
+wine is included in the bill, and it is all the same whether you
+drink it or leave it alone.&nbsp; If there is a family dining or
+lunching together, the bottle goes round, and perhaps a glass or
+two will suffice; but a solitary traveller has his two quart
+bottles to tackle per day, and what are you to do?&mdash;one is
+afraid to drink water when travelling, as there may be poison in
+the pot.&nbsp; A similar remark applies to milk.&nbsp; It is
+sadly liable to infection, and it may be that, when you ask for
+it, it may prove no exception to the general rule.&nbsp; I
+remember how Sir Russell Reynolds, when on a Continental tour,
+confined himself to milk, and on his return to England had a
+serious illness in consequence.&nbsp; No wonder, then, that as a
+rule the ordinary traveller sticks to the wine of the country,
+which is little intoxicating, and has a pleasant favour that
+helps much in its consumption.</p>
+<p>I fancy the burgundy of Dijon is much purer and <a
+name="page208"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 208</span>pleasanter
+than that of London.&nbsp; Nevertheless, two quarts of it a day
+are rather too much.&nbsp; I got rid of the difficulty by
+sacrificing my dinner and having tea instead.&nbsp; Dijon is a
+very ancient city, and full of very interesting remains.&nbsp;
+Indeed, I fancy it is one of the most interesting cities in
+France.&nbsp; In an old engraving of it which I have, it is
+surrounded by a wall, and seems a city of church spires, and its
+ecclesiastical buildings are very old and numerous, but the walls
+are gone, and handsome boulevards have taken their place.&nbsp;
+Its modern fame depends on its wine, its spiced bread, and its
+mustard.&nbsp; I buy a mustard-pot&mdash;a characteristic
+specimen of French ingenuity.&nbsp; It is an earthenware
+pig.&nbsp; The back is hollow.&nbsp; You take off the top, and
+there is the place for the mustard and a long mustard-spoon, the
+crooked end of which does duty as a tail.&nbsp; The animal has
+his nose in a trough, which is divided into two portions, one for
+pepper, the other for salt.&nbsp; I am proud of that mustard-pot,
+and only use it on state occasions.&nbsp; At Avignon the
+mustard-pot was equally a combination, but of a less artistic
+character.&nbsp; It was simply a blue earthenware pot with the
+mustard in the centre, while just below are two little recesses,
+one for the pepper and one for the salt; and these you see at
+really good hotels in preference to the costlier electroplate
+mustard-pots in use nearer home.&nbsp; At Thetford they make
+unbreakable earthenware.&nbsp; I should recommend the company to
+try a few mustard-pots <i>&agrave; la Francaise</i>.</p>
+<p>Dijon, says the guide-book&mdash;one of that excellent series
+in red known as <i>Guide-Ioannes</i>, to be purchased for a
+franc, sometimes less, at all French railway-stations&mdash;is
+one of the most interesting cities in <a name="page209"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 209</span>France, containing 63,425
+inhabitants.&nbsp; It is situated at the junction of the Ouche
+and the Suzon, at the foot of the mountains of the C&ocirc;te
+d&rsquo;Or, and at the commencement of a fruitful valley which
+stretches as far as the Jura.&nbsp; It is lovely&mdash;when I was
+there it rained, and I did not see much of its
+loveliness&mdash;well built and salubrious.&nbsp; Its principal
+attractions are the Cathedral of St. Benigne, the Churches of
+Notre Dame and St. Michel, and the Palace of the Dukes of
+Burgundy, the Palace of Justice, the museum containing the tombs
+of the Dukes of Burgundy and the remains of the Chartreuse de
+Chamoi.&nbsp; Wherever you go you meet with old houses and
+architecture of the most interesting character.&nbsp; It is a
+place to be visited carefully by the artist.&nbsp; He will find
+much to interest him at every step.&nbsp; In England we have
+nothing like it.&nbsp; In the troubles and wars which led, after
+many ages, to the establishment of a united France under one
+monarch, Dijon became a place of great importance and the seat of
+a legislative assembly.&nbsp; Originally a second-rate Roman
+settlement, it had become Christianized by the preaching of St.
+Benigne, who died a martyr for his faith, and to whom, as I have
+already stated, the great cathedral was consecrated; yet it did
+not become the seat of a bishopric till 1731.&nbsp; For ages the
+Dukes of Burgundy resided there, and at a later time it gave to
+France its grand pulpit orator, Bossuet, and to the Church St.
+Bernard.&nbsp; In 1477 the French King gained possession of the
+city, and the rule of the Dukes of Burgundy came to an end.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Lord of Craon,&rsquo; writes old Philip de
+Commines&mdash;the father of modern history, whose memoirs,
+writes Mr. Hallam, almost make an epoch in historical
+literature&mdash;<a name="page210"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+210</span>&lsquo;when he drew near Burgundy, sent forward the
+Prince of Orange and others to Dijon to use persuasion and
+require the people to render obedience to the King, and they
+managed the matter so adroitly, principally by means of the
+Prince of Orange, that the city of Dijon and all the other towns
+in the duchy of Burgundy, together with many others in the
+country, gave in their allegiance to the King.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+Whether the people gained much by the change is not very
+clear.&nbsp; Apparently, Commines did not think Dijon had much
+cause for thankfulness.&nbsp; &lsquo;In my opinion,&rsquo; he
+writes, &lsquo;of all the countries in the world with which I was
+ever acquainted, the government is nowhere so well managed, the
+people nowhere less obnoxious to violence and oppression, nor
+their houses less liable to be destroyed by violence or
+oppression, than in England, for these calamities only fall upon
+the authors of them.&rsquo;&nbsp; I suppose the people of Dijon
+were of a similar way of thinking, as the writer of the
+guide-book tells us that &lsquo;<i>Dijon adopta avec enthousiasme
+les principes de la R&eacute;volution</i>.&rsquo;&nbsp; Happily
+its victims during that reign of terror were few.&nbsp; In the
+war with France the Germans got hold of Dijon; but Garibaldi came
+to the rescue.&nbsp; Now Dijon is at peace, and long may it so
+remain, its hotels affording rest and refreshment to the weary
+traveller, and its wine, when taken in moderation, making glad
+the heart of man.&nbsp; Let me make one remark as a hint to the
+tourist.&nbsp; Possibly he sees in the Continental Bradshaw an
+advertisement of a hotel where the charges are rather less than
+those of others.&nbsp; He goes there, but he finds no
+reduction.&nbsp; The excuse is that the lower charge is not for
+the hasty traveller, but for the one who comes to stay.</p>
+<p><a name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>As a
+recent writer in <i>Temple Bar</i> remarks, the general air of
+pride and prosperity indicates that the capital of the duchy
+thrives excellently as a member of the Republic.&nbsp; The Rue de
+Libert&eacute; reminds us of some of our old English towns.&nbsp;
+Step aside into any of the cross-streets, and you find yourself
+in a labyrinth of crooked by-ways and carved doors, by the side
+of low angular bell-towers, which seem to have come straight from
+some old Flemish city, or you come to quaint, quiet, detached
+squares, planted with young trees, with white detached houses all
+round some of them, remnants of feudal hotels.&nbsp; In the Salle
+des Gardes of the old palace the tombs of the two greatest Dukes
+may still be seen.&nbsp; The palace, a huge, stately, modernized
+building, is now a museum, a picture-gallery, and the
+headquarters of all local and departmental business.&nbsp; It is
+there that the French Protestants of to-day worship.&nbsp; The
+Church of Notre Dame, of which the great Cond&eacute; declared
+that it should be packed in a jeweller&rsquo;s box to preserve
+it, is beautiful outside as in.&nbsp; It is the mother-church, to
+which the Dijonais cling, where their children are baptized and
+brought on their First Communion.&nbsp; It is crowded of a
+Sunday.&nbsp; Nor is St. Michel externally less impressive; but
+the interior is described as dowdy and disappointing.&nbsp; But,
+after all, I fancy the chief visitors to Dijon are the
+wine-merchants, and others interested in the wine trade.&nbsp;
+The railway time-tables are full of familiar names of
+vineyards.&nbsp; In a journey of thirty miles southwards, you
+meet with, the well-known names of Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune,
+and Meursault, and you think, perhaps, of feasting and gaiety a
+long time ago.&nbsp; But the country <a name="page212"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 212</span>lacks the picturesque.&nbsp; You may
+travel far on the main line without seeing anything in the shape
+of pleasant landscape.&nbsp; The country around is undulating,
+but on the whole flat.&nbsp; There are many walks with pleasant
+memories&mdash;one leads to Talant, the ancient palace of the
+Dukes of Burgundy, now the seat of an archaic village with a
+marvellous church, where they show you an ancient picture said to
+have been painted by St. Luke.&nbsp; From the common at the foot
+of the hill you get a good view of Dijon, with the cathedral
+towers in the foreground, and the cupola of St. Michel standing
+up above.&nbsp; In an old ch&acirc;teau near-by was the
+birthplace of the great St. Bernard.&nbsp; Far off is the rolling
+expanse of land which stretches away to the frontiers of
+Champagne.&nbsp; &lsquo;It was among these fields and
+villages,&rsquo; says the writer in <i>Temple Bar</i> to whom I
+have already referred, &lsquo;that the three battles of Dijon
+were fought during the Franco-Prussian War, and here and there,
+at turnings in the road and in wide ploughed land, monuments
+covered with withered wreaths recall the event, and make the sad
+landscape all the sadder; yet France pines for war, and the clang
+of martial strains everywhere makes it little better than an
+armed camp.&nbsp; It is the same everywhere.&nbsp; The one great
+problem of European statesmen seems to be to find a sufficiency
+of soldiers and sailors, as if we still lived in the dark ages,
+when might was right, and the sole arbiter of nations was the
+sword.&nbsp; It is awful to think of; it is a disgrace alike to
+Christianity and civilization that such should be the case.&nbsp;
+It is not now that we can sing, as we did in the great Exhibition
+year, more than forty years ago, of the <a
+name="page213"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 213</span>triumph of
+Captain Pen over Captain Sword.&nbsp; Still, we can pray with
+Campbell:</p>
+<blockquote><p>&lsquo;The cause of truth and human weal,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; O God above!<br />
+Transfer it from the sword&rsquo;s appeal<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; To Peace and Love.<br />
+Peace, Love! the cherubim that join<br />
+Their spread wings o&rsquo;er devotion&rsquo;s shrine;<br />
+Prayers sound in vain, and temples shine,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Where they are not.&rsquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<h2><a name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+214</span>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm">BOOKS OF REFERENCE.</p>
+<p>As possibly some of my readers may wish for a further study of
+some of the cities and places to which I have referred, I have
+added a few books of reference which they may consult with
+advantage.&nbsp; They are as follows:</p>
+<p>Plutarch&rsquo;s &lsquo;Lives.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>Gibbon&rsquo;s &lsquo;Decline and Fall of the Roman
+Empire.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;How to Visit the Mediterranean,&rsquo; by Dr. Lunn.</p>
+<p>Pollard&rsquo;s &lsquo;Land of the Monuments.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Holy City,&rsquo; by Dr. Russell Forbes.</p>
+<p>Murray and Baedeker&rsquo;s Guide-Books.</p>
+<p>Merriwether&rsquo;s &lsquo;Afloat and Ashore on the
+Mediterranean.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Climates of the South of France,&rsquo; by Dr. Theodore
+Williams.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Cities of South Italy and Sicily,&rsquo; by A. J. C.
+Hare.</p>
+<p>Cook&rsquo;s &lsquo;South Italy.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Jerusalem Illustrated,&rsquo; by G. Robinson Lees.</p>
+<p>Cook&rsquo;s &lsquo;Egypt.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Walks in Cairo,&rsquo; by Major Plunkett.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;England in Egypt,&rsquo; by Sir A. Milner.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;From Pharaoh to Fellah,&rsquo; by C. F. Moberley
+Bell.</p>
+<p><a name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+215</span>&lsquo;Scenes from Life in Cairo,&rsquo; by Miss
+Whateley.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Leaves from my Sketch-Book,&rsquo; by E. W. Cooke.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Court Life in Egypt,&rsquo; by A. J. Butler.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Last Letters from Egypt,&rsquo; by Lady Duff
+Gordon.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt as It Is,&rsquo; by J. C. Moran.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt and its Future,&rsquo; by Dr. Wylie.</p>
+<p>Budge&rsquo;s &lsquo;Dwellers on the Nile.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Nile,&rsquo; by Wallis Budge.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt as a Winter Resort,&rsquo; by Dr. Sandwith.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Wintering in Egypt,&rsquo; by Dr. A. J. Bentley.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Monuments of Upper Egypt,&rsquo; by Marriette Bey.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Pharaoh&rsquo;s Fellahs and Explorers,&rsquo; by A. M.
+Edwards.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Nile Gleanings,&rsquo; by H. Villiers Stuart.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Sketches from a Nile Steamer,&rsquo; by H. M.
+Tirard.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A Tour in Egypt,&rsquo; by Rev. Canon Bell.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egyptian Sketches,&rsquo; by J. Lynch.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt,&rsquo; by S. L. Lane.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Leaves from an Egyptian Sketch-Book,&rsquo; by Canon
+Isaac Taylor.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Cairo,&rsquo; by S. Lane Poole.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt of To-day,&rsquo; by W. Fraser Rae.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Land of the Sphinx,&rsquo; by G. Montbard.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The New Egypt,&rsquo; by Francis Adams.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Through David&rsquo;s Realm,&rsquo; by Rev. E. T. D.
+Tompkins.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Palestine,&rsquo; by Major Conder.</p>
+<p>The Works of Flavius Josephus.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Mount Vesuvius,&rsquo; by J. Logan Lobley.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Bible and Modern Discoveries,&rsquo; by Henry A.
+Harper.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Our Inheritance in the Great Pyramid,&rsquo; by Piozzi
+Smith.</p>
+<p><a name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+216</span>&lsquo;Palestine under the Moslems,&rsquo; by Guy Le
+Strange.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Women of Turkey,&rsquo; by Lucy Garnett.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Greek Pictures,&rsquo; by Dr. Mahaffy.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Mythology and Monuments of Ancient Athens.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;With the Bedouins,&rsquo; by Gray Hill.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Modern Discoveries on the Ancient Site of
+Ephesus,&rsquo; by J. T. Wood.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Essays on Christian Greece,&rsquo; by Demetrius
+Bikelos, translated by the Marquis of Bute.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A History of Greek Sculpture,&rsquo; by Dr. A.
+Murray.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Eothen,&rsquo; by A. W. Kinglake.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Cornhill to Cairo,&rsquo; by W. M. Thackeray.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The History of Sicily,&rsquo; by Dr. Edward A.
+Freeman.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Sicily, Ph&oelig;nician, Greek and Roman,&rsquo; by the
+late Prof. F. A. Freeman (&lsquo;Story of the
+Nations&rsquo;).</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Among the Holy Places,&rsquo; by Dr. James Kean.</p>
+<p>Dean Stanley&rsquo;s &lsquo;Sinai and Palestine.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Buried Cities and Bible Countries,&rsquo; by G. St.
+Clair.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;In Christ&rsquo;s Country,&rsquo; by Samuel Rome.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Byzantine Empire,&rsquo; by C. W. C. Osman.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;On the Nile with a Camera,&rsquo; by Anthony
+Wilkin.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Island of Capri,&rsquo; by Ferdinand
+Gregorovius.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Diary of an Idle Woman in Constantinople.&rsquo;</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Recollections of an Egyptian Princess,&rsquo; by Miss
+Chennelles.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Jerusalem, the Holy City,&rsquo; by Mrs. Oliphant.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Rulers of the Mediterranean,&rsquo; by R. H.
+Davis.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Historical Geography of the Holy Land,&rsquo; by
+Dr. G. A. Smith.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Holy Land and the Bible,&rsquo; by Dr. Geikie.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Ancient Egyptian Doctrine of the Immortality of the
+Soul,&rsquo; by Dr. Wisedeman.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Manual of Egyptian Arch&aelig;ology,&rsquo; by Dr.
+Maspero.</p>
+<p><a name="page217"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+217</span>&lsquo;The Bible and the Monuments,&rsquo; by W. St.
+Chaud Boscawen.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Letters from Constantinople,&rsquo; by Mrs. Max
+M&uuml;ller.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Egypt under the British,&rsquo; by H. F. Wood.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Travel Pictures from Palestine,&rsquo; by James Wells,
+D.D.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A History of Egypt,&rsquo; by W. M. Flinders
+Petrie.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Forgotten Isles, Balearic Isles, Corsica and
+Sardinia,&rsquo; by Gaston Villiers.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Sultan and his People,&rsquo; by Richard Davey.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The Outgoing Turk,&rsquo; by H. G. Thomson.</p>
+<p>For invalids merely travelling for health, I would recommend
+&lsquo;The Mediterranean Winter Resorts,&rsquo; by E. A. Reynolds
+Ball, which is now in a third edition.&nbsp; Great prominence has
+been given to the medical aspect of the principal invalid
+resorts, and special articles dealing with the climatic,
+sanitary, and general hygienic conditions of these resorts have
+been contributed by resident English physicians.&nbsp; This is
+the only English guide-book published containing authoritative
+articles on the principal winter resorts by medical
+experts.&nbsp; Another new feature which may be specially
+mentioned is the introduction of detailed descriptions of the
+newer health resorts, such as Biskra, Luxor, Helouan in North
+Africa; St. Raphael, Grasse, Beaulieu, Ospedaletti on the
+Riviera; Torre del Greco, Castellamare, Amalfi on the South
+Italian Littoral, which have come into favour within the last few
+years.&nbsp; In describing the different places in this
+guide-book, a certain uniform order has, as far as possible, been
+preserved in treating of the various subjects.&nbsp; Routes,
+climatic conditions, society, hotel and villa accommodation,
+amusements, sport, principal attractions, places <a
+name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 218</span>of
+interest, and excursions, have been dealt with consecutively in
+the above order, greater or less space being accorded to the
+various subjects according to the special characteristics of each
+resort.&nbsp; The author has attempted to give rather fuller
+information about the newer and less known winter resorts,
+concerning which little has been written in the standard works of
+Murray and Baedeker, than he has done when describing the popular
+and well-known Riviera resorts, which possess a whole library of
+guide-book and travel literature of their own.</p>
+<p>Dealing with the delicate question of hotel accommodation for
+visitors, Mr. Reynolds Ball has not shrunk from the invidious
+task of occasional recommendation, based either on personal
+experience, or on trustworthy reports of friends or
+residents.&nbsp; Most of the information in this handbook has
+been derived at first-hand.&nbsp; He has visited nearly all the
+places described, and with regard to others he has availed
+himself of the help of travelled friends or residents possessing
+knowledge gained on the spot.</p>
+<p>Magazine articles in connection with the countries and cities
+here referred to are numerous.&nbsp; Social life at Naples is
+well described in an article in the <i>National Review</i> for
+February, 1892.&nbsp; A readable account of the sanitary and
+meteorological conditions of Cairo will be found in an article in
+the <i>Lancet</i>, November, 1889, entitled &lsquo;The Winter
+Climate of the Nile.&rsquo;&nbsp; An interesting description of
+Corfu appeared in the <i>Sunday Magazine</i> for May, 1893, by
+Professor Mahaffy; the reader will find also a good deal of
+useful information in Cassell&rsquo;s &lsquo;Picturesque
+Mediterranean,&rsquo; 1891.&nbsp; For Corsica the reader had
+better refer to Mr. Freshfield&rsquo;s interesting <a
+name="page219"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 219</span>account of
+climbing experiences in the island, which appeared in the
+<i>Alpine Journal</i>, 1880.</p>
+<p>When one thinks of the enormous number of works published in
+connection with Egypt, it is worth noting that when Edward
+William Lane wrote his account of the &lsquo;Manners and Customs
+of Modern Egypt,&rsquo; of which an excellent reprint has been
+published in the Minerva Library, when he returned to England
+with a complete description of Egypt as it then was, and a
+hundred excellent drawings, Egypt was not known or appreciated in
+England, and no publisher would incur the expense of publishing
+the work and reproducing the drawings, though they were
+universally praised by all who saw them.&nbsp; In this respect
+the change is simply marvellous.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">the
+end</span>.</p>
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="gapmediumline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">billing and
+sons, printers, guildford</span>.</p>
+<h2><a name="page221"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+221</span>Advertisements</h2>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>Just Published</i>.&nbsp; <i>One
+Vol.</i>, <i>crown</i> 8<i>vo.</i>, <i>price</i> 6<i>s.</i></p>
+<h3>CRYING FOR THE LIGHT;<br />
+Or, Fifty Years Ago.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE<br />
+(<span class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>).</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>NOTICES OF THE PRESS</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;On the pressing social problems of the day he has much
+to say that is well worth listening to.&nbsp; There is a force of
+characterization in Mr. Ritchie&rsquo;s sketches and a passion
+for human sympathy pervading his whole work.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>The
+New Age</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A thoroughly interesting
+romance.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Publishers&rsquo; Circular</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The story is refreshing and powerful, and the
+characters well drawn and carefully studied.&nbsp; The heroine is
+a charming, clever, and popular actress, and with commendable
+courage the author endows her with a still higher
+attribute&mdash;that of true, earnest Christianity.&nbsp;
+Wentworth, preacher and journalist, is another attractive and
+lifelike character.&nbsp; The scenes through which Mr. Ritchie
+guides his characters are many and varied, and whether we take
+him in his description of theatrical life, press life, in his
+graphically depicted election scenes of fifty years ago, or in
+the strong and painful realism of his &ldquo;low life,&rdquo; he
+shows the same master hand.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Belfast Northern
+Whig</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;There is much that is interesting, and may be read with
+profit.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Weekly Times and Echo</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;It is interesting reading, and exhibits this popular
+writer&rsquo;s facility and graphic
+power.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Inquirer</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;It is quite refreshing to read Mr. Ritchie&rsquo;s new
+book.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Bookseller</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Among the lower walks of journalism he treads upon
+comparatively new ground, and this picture has the witness of
+truth upon it.&nbsp; This, after all, is what we ask from the
+novelist&mdash;a true picture of real
+life.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Literary World</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Free from the suspicion of dulness&mdash;always
+readable and often racy.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Eastern Daily Press</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;There is some bright writing in the
+story.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Standard</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The style of the writer is bright and
+sparkling.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Suffolk Chronicle</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;One may tolerate the least popular views of an author
+who writes so genially and
+good-naturedly.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Scotsman</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;A delightfully light and pleasant
+work.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Sheffield Daily Telegraph</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;There is not a single page which does not bear the
+stamp of Mr. Ritchie&rsquo;s widely read and acutely observant
+mind.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Liverpool Daily Post</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The heroine is a charming woman&mdash;a clever actress
+and a real Christian.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Christian World</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;We shall rejoice to hear that the work has a large
+circulation.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Christian Life</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Amongst the cleverest portions of the book is the
+account of the Parliamentary election at Sloville&mdash;in which
+the electioneering tactics of fifty years ago are unsparingly
+exposed.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>East Anglian Daily Times</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Marked by a good deal of animation, and a vigorous and
+wholesome tone.&rsquo;</p>
+<p style="text-align: right"><i>Essex County Herald</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The work is in Mr. Ritchie&rsquo;s best
+style.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Isle of Man Examiner</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapmediumline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">JARROLD &amp; SONS, WARWICK LANE,
+PATERNOSTER ROW.</p>
+<h3><a name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+222</span>TRAINING SHIPS &lsquo;ARETHUSA&rsquo; &amp;
+&lsquo;CHICHESTER.&rsquo;</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>Also Eight Homes on Shore for
+Educating and Maintaining</i><br />
+<i>nearly</i> 1,000 <i>Boys and Girls</i>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">President: The Right Hon. the EARL
+of JERSEY, G.C.M.G.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">SUPPORTED WHOLLY BY VOLUNTARY
+CONTRIBUTIONS.</p>
+<div class="gapmediumline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>These times of mercantile depression have made sore gaps in
+the usual gifts, and we now earnestly appeal for new subscribers
+to support this long-established Charity.&nbsp; Over 14,000 Boys
+and Girls have been rescued and trained since the foundation in
+1843 by the late William Williams, Esq.</p>
+<p>CONTRIBUTIONS ARE EARNESTLY SOLICITED and will be very
+thankfully received by the London and Westminster Bank, 214, High
+Holborn, W.C.; by</p>
+<p>H. BRISTOW WALLEN, Secretary.</p>
+<p>HENRY G. COPELAND, Finance and Deputation Secretary.</p>
+<p>National Refuges for Homeless and Destitute Children, and
+&lsquo;Arethusa&rsquo; and &lsquo;Chichester&rsquo; Training
+Ships.</p>
+<div class="gapmediumline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>London Office: 104, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><i>FOUNDED 1870</i>.&nbsp;
+<i>REBUILT 1892</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>THE HOUSE-BOY BRIGADE.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">(<i>For Training Orphan and
+Destitute Boys for Domestic Service</i>.)</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">146 &amp; 148, MARYLEBONE ROAD,<br
+/>
+<span class="smcap">and</span><br />
+22 &amp; 23, ALLSOP ST., UPPER BAKER ST., LONDON.</p>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p style="text-align: center">President:<br />
+LADY WOLVERTON.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: center">Treasurer:<br />
+LORD WOLVERTON.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">Hon. Secretary:<br
+/>
+E. H. M. DENNY, Esq.</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>This Institution was founded in 1870 by the late Lady
+Wolverton, for the purpose of receiving Orphan and Destitute
+Boys, and by employing them in the houses of the gentry, in
+domestic work, training them for indoor servants.</p>
+<p>A boy must have passed the Fourth Government Standard of
+Education, be twelve to fifteen years of age, and in good
+health.&nbsp; The boys work in the morning, and attend school in
+the afternoon.&nbsp; This is tested by yearly examinations, which
+are presented to the Committee and published in their Report.</p>
+<p>The entrance fee is &pound;5.&nbsp; As this is the only
+payment asked during the period of three years or more that the
+boy remains in the Society&mdash;indeed, started in life and
+looked after for a period of years&mdash;&pound;5 thus expended
+in helping a boy is an excellent investment.</p>
+<p>Further particulars and forms of admission can be obtained
+from Mr. C. H. <span class="smcap">Chevens</span>,
+<i>Secretary</i>, by applying to the Office, 148, Marylebone
+Road, London, N.W.</p>
+<h3><a name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+223</span>Orphanage for Little Girls,<br />
+<span class="smcap">clacton-on-sea</span>.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">(<i>Connected with the London
+Flower Girls&rsquo; Christian Mission</i>.)</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Founder</span>:
+MR. JOHN A. GROOM.</p>
+<p>Contributions earnestly <span class="smcap">Solicited</span>
+on behalf of the above Orphanage, now sheltering, caring for and
+training over 120 Orphan Destitute Girls&mdash;some of whom are
+infants only a few months old.&nbsp; They are admitted
+irrespective of creed, nationality or physical infirmity, and
+remain till they are 16 years of age and are trained for domestic
+service.&nbsp; There are no elections, votes, canvassing or
+expense connected with admission; the most urgent and needy cases
+are admitted by the Selection Committee.&nbsp; The homes are
+conducted upon the cottage principle, each home offering
+accommodation for 20 children, and under the care of a Foster
+Mother.&nbsp; The Institution is quite unsectarian, and is
+entirely dependent upon the generous offerings of the
+benevolent.&nbsp; Visitors are earnestly invited to visit the
+homes between 2 and 5 o&rsquo;clock any day except Saturday and
+Sunday.</p>
+<p>Reports and Audited Accounts may be had, post free, on
+application to <span class="smcap">John A. Groom</span>,
+Secretary, 8, Sekforde Street, Clerkenwell, London, E.C.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>The Ragged School Union &amp; Shaftesbury Society</h3>
+<p>Is a Christian Organization designed to bring brotherly
+sympathy and uplifting ministries to the street child and its
+parents.&nbsp; The methods and agencies cover body, mind, and
+heart.</p>
+<p>The HOLIDAY HOMES FUND dealt last summer with 6,673
+children.</p>
+<p>The CRIPPLE DEPARTMENT visits and ministers various comforts
+to about 6,000 cripples.</p>
+<p>The POOR CHILDREN&rsquo;S AID BRANCH supplies Boots and
+Garments.</p>
+<p>The BENEVOLENT FUND aids acute distress; also helps with Soup
+Kitchen, Children&rsquo;s Breakfasts and Dinners.</p>
+<p>The DRIFT CHILDREN&rsquo;S BRANCH gathers the outside children
+to Missions and Schools who might drift away from all good
+influences.</p>
+<p>The RAGGED CHURCH UNION, the BAREFOOT MISSION, and the SEA
+SHELL AND CHILDREN&rsquo;S SCRAP-BOOK MISSION, now form part of
+the R.S.U.</p>
+<p>There are 192 affiliated Mission Buildings located in the
+poorest districts of London attended by over 50,000 children, 232
+Bible Classes, 131 Mothers&rsquo; Meetings, 171 Bands of Hope,
+106 Week-night Schools and Industrial Classes, 97 Libraries, 70
+Penny Banks, 198 Religious Meetings.&nbsp; There are nearly 6,000
+Voluntary Workers.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;Deserving of support.&rsquo;&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Bishop of Bedford</span> (Dr. Billing), in
+Westminster Abbey.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The noblest of many noble charities.&rsquo;&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Marquess of Lorne</span>, Southend.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The most conspicuous illustration of the new
+philanthropy.&rsquo;&mdash;<span class="smcap">Sir Walter
+Besant</span> on the R.S.U.&nbsp; Jubilee in <i>The Contemporary
+Review</i>.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;I would rather be President of the Ragged School Union
+than Prime Minister of England.&rsquo;&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Seventh Earl of Shaftesbury</span>.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">CONTRIBUTIONS EARNESTLY
+SOLICITED.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Offices: 37, Norfolk Street, Strand,
+London, W.C.&nbsp; JOHN KIRK, Secretary</span>.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page224"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 224</span>ESTABLISHED 1851.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>BIRKBECK BANK,</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">Southampton Buildings,<br />
+CHANCERY LAME, LONDON, W.C.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">INVESTED
+FUNDS&mdash;&pound;8,000,000.<br />
+<i>Number of Accounts</i>, <i>75,061</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p>TWO-AND-A-HALF per CENT. INTEREST allowed on DEPOSITS,
+repayable on demand.</p>
+<p>TWO per CENT. on CURRENT ACCOUNTS, on the minimum monthly
+balances, when not drawn below &pound;100.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">STOCKS, SHARES, and ANNUITIES
+purchased and sold for customers.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">Savings Department.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Small Deposits received, and
+Interest allowed monthly on each<br />
+completed &pound;1.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">The BIRKBECK ALMANACK, with full
+particulars, post free.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p><i>Telephone No. 65005</i>.</p>
+<p><i>Telegraphic Address</i>: &lsquo;<i>BIRKBECK</i>,
+<i>LONDON</i>.&rsquo;</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">FRANCIS RAVENSCROFT,
+<i>Manager</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page225"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 225</span><i>Second Edition</i>.&nbsp;
+<i>Price</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <a name="citation225"></a><a
+href="#footnote225" class="citation">[225]</a></p>
+<h3>EAST ANGLIA:</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">Personal Recollections and
+Historical Associations.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE (&lsquo;<span
+class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>&rsquo;).</p>
+<p>&lsquo;&ldquo;East Anglia&rdquo; has the merit of not being a
+compilation, which is more than can be said of the great majority
+of books produced in these days to satisfy the revived taste for
+topographical gossip.&nbsp; Mr. Ritchie is a Suffolk
+man&mdash;the son of a Nonconformist minister of Wrentham in that
+county&mdash;and he looks back to the old neighbourhood and the
+old times with an affection which is likely to communicate itself
+to his readers.&nbsp; Altogether we can with confidence recommend
+this book, not only to East Anglians, but to all readers who have
+any affinity for works of its class.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Daily
+News</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>:
+JARROLD &amp; SONS, <span class="smcap">Warwick Lane</span>,
+E.C.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>BRIGHTER SOUTH AFRICA.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The South African journalist gets a trifle wearied with
+the commonplace descriptions of his country usually affected by
+the ordinary globe-trotter, and so he will welcome a work like
+this all the more warmly.&nbsp; For trite remarks, we have
+original and critical analysis of affairs as Mr. Ritchie found
+them.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>South Africa</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>:
+FISHER UNWIN.</p>
+<div class="gapline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h3>AN AUSTRALIAN RAMBLE.</h3>
+<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE.</p>
+<p>&lsquo;The reader who desires a clear bird&rsquo;s-eye view of
+the country and a pleasant sketch of its many interests will do
+well to follow Christopher Crayon&rsquo;s summer journey to
+Australia and back again.&rsquo;&mdash;<i>Literary World</i>.</p>
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>:
+FISHER UNWIN.</p>
+<h2>Footnotes:</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote225"></a><a href="#citation225"
+class="footnote">[225]</a>&nbsp; In the book this page is
+unnumbered and at the start of the book.&nbsp; It has been moved
+to the end to make the whole more readable.&mdash;DP.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN***</p>
+<pre>
+
+
+***** This file should be named 36084-h.htm or 36084-h.zip******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/6/0/8/36084
+
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://www.gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+</pre></body>
+</html>
diff --git a/36084-h/images/cover.jpg b/36084-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1150cd8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p0.jpg b/36084-h/images/p0.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fab1a12
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p0.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p105b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p105b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c7d5c67
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p105b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p105s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p105s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b984de7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p105s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p126b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p126b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..69b5d8b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p126b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p126s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p126s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3b19bca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p126s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p136b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p136b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..611dc98
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p136b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p136s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p136s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ba9f381
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p136s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p137b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p137b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..74ef277
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p137b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p137s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p137s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..606642f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p137s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p139b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p139b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..81104f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p139b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p139s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p139s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..44efa68
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p139s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p142b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p142b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a1251ca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p142b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p142s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p142s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5c96f6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p142s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p154b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p154b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d6fb40f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p154b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p154s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p154s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1fef465
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p154s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p156b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p156b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dfa59d0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p156b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p156s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p156s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8a32979
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p156s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p157b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p157b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9aebce9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p157b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p157s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p157s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fae6d6d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p157s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p169b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p169b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0f55934
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p169b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p169s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p169s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ca2bd9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p169s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p173b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p173b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b1b3d66
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p173b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p173s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p173s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c0dae88
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p173s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p175b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p175b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..64d7877
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p175b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p175s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p175s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e7b2a84
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p175s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p189b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p189b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1d111fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p189b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p189s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p189s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..76f79c3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p189s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p197b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p197b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7ff365d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p197b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p197s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p197s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..73ea3fb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p197s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p19b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p19b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d1db455
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p19b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p19s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p19s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..557cafb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p19s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p27b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p27b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..26f1109
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p27b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p27s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p27s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d29f9fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p27s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p37b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p37b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..034b7bf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p37b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p38b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p38b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4c33087
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p38b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p38s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p38s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a6270a8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p38s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p4.jpg b/36084-h/images/p4.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9fefe0b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p4.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p47.jpg b/36084-h/images/p47.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..45f7b10
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p47.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p49b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p49b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c7875ac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p49b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p49s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p49s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e85c931
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p49s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p57b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p57b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d218bd8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p57b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p57s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p57s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d52ebee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p57s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p59b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p59b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c1856a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p59b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p59s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p59s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c4d552b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p59s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p61b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p61b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..994ba74
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p61b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p61s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p61s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c66b15d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p61s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p65b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p65b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..37c108c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p65b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p65s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p65s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eb70a45
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p65s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p67b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p67b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f53626f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p67b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p67s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p67s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..82511e2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p67s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p73b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p73b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1e3c3e7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p73b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p73s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p73s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1abd952
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p73s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p79b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p79b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e04753d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p79b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p79s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p79s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..caf02a7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p79s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p81b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p81b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c1f4898
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p81b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p81s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p81s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..63d9828
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p81s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p93b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p93b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..55022b3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p93b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p93s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p93s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e78ecac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p93s.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p95b.jpg b/36084-h/images/p95b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a1b547e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p95b.jpg
diff --git a/36084-h/images/p95s.jpg b/36084-h/images/p95s.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0069344
--- /dev/null
+++ b/36084-h/images/p95s.jpg
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4275de4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #36084 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/36084)