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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera, by 
+Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera
+
+Author: Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2011 [EBook #36110]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Juliet Sutherland and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+The following typographical errors have been corrected:
+
+    Page 58: "From street to street we pass, viewing the wretched
+      tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling together over a faint
+      spark of fire ..." 'tenements' amended from 'temements'.
+
+    Page 167: "I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force
+      of arms, some of these rare types of strength and beauty, and
+      observing two pretty young girls standing in the doorway of one of
+      the houses, both perfect specimens of physical health, I think this
+      an opportunity not to be neglected." 'two' amended from 'too'.
+
+    Page 290: "A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in the many
+      excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and visionary
+      will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of rare
+      grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen,
+      cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages
+      of legendary lore." 'weird' amended from 'wierd'.
+
+    Page 296: "Just below are Rhöndorf, Honnef, Rheinbreitbach, Unkel,
+      and Erpel ..." 'Rhöndorf' amended from 'Rhondörf'.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE CANAL AT MONNIKENDAM]
+
+
+
+  Odd Bits of Travel
+
+  with
+
+  Brush and Camera
+
+
+  by
+
+  CHARLES M. TAYLOR, JR.
+
+  Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan" and "The British Isles
+  Through an Opera Glass," Etc., Etc.
+
+
+  Profusely Illustrated by the Author
+
+
+  Philadelphia
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103 and 105 South Fifteenth Street
+
+
+
+
+  Copyright, 1900, by
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO
+
+
+  TO MY WIFE
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+In almost every walk of life, even among artists and photographers, we
+find those who are enthusiasts, and who work with such ardor and
+perseverance as to overcome all difficulties; while there are others who
+seem to desire the hard and rough places smoothed down, and the
+obstacles removed from their pathways. In writing this volume, it has
+been my purpose to enlist the attention of both of these classes, and to
+bring before the ardent worker as well as the ease-loving, but no less
+interested, follower of art, places and scenes that afford unusual
+attractions for the brush and camera.
+
+It might truthfully be said that in one's city may be found innumerable
+subjects of interest to both the amateur and professional artist; but
+change of food, scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both mind and
+body, and it is ofttimes wise to pass to new scenes and broader fields
+of observation.
+
+The places described herein are not linked together by proximity of
+location and follow no regular line of travel; but are selected from
+various lands and from among widely differing peoples, for the sole
+purpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable and photographic
+subjects. I have endeavored to select nooks and corners where the artist
+and photographer will have suitable accommodations, and where the
+country with its fresh, pure air, and wholesome food may build up the
+health, while at the same time an opportunity is afforded for filling
+the portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and characteristic figure
+studies. It has also been my aim to tell of countries and places
+comparatively easy of access, and where those of limited means may find
+satisfactory accommodations.
+
+At times I digress in my pictorial descriptions and offer some Bits of
+personal experience that have befallen me upon my journeys, which I
+trust may prove of interest and perhaps be of service to others
+travelling through the same places. It is with these purposes in view
+that the following pages have been written, and my hope is that they may
+serve to guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the attractive
+spots and fascinating views which I have attempted to describe in these
+ODD BITS OF TRAVEL.
+
+  _Philadelphia, 1900._      C. M. T., JR.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  SCENES OF THE PRESENT AND RELICS OF THE PAST
+
+  Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking
+  Photographs--The Landing-Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the
+  Country--Liverpool by Night--Salvationists--Old
+  Taverns--Chester--An English Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The
+  River Dee--Leamington--The River Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old
+  Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh--"The King's
+  Arms"--Nature's Pictures                                            15
+
+  LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF LONDON LIFE
+
+  The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and
+  Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An
+  English Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great
+  Cities by Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old
+  Robin Hood Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side
+  Shows--The Close of the Day                                         57
+
+  SCENES IN THE GAY CAPITAL
+
+  Dover to Calais--Paris---The Gay Capital by
+  Night--Boulevards--Life in the Streets--Champs Élysées--Place de
+  la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place Vendome--Louvre--Opera
+  House--Palais Royal--Church of the Invalides--Versailles--Notre
+  Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The Pantheon--The Banks of
+  the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La Morgue--Pere Lachaise      83
+
+  ANTWERP AND THE CITY OF WINDMILLS
+
+  From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty
+  Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs in Harness--The River--Old
+  Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative Listener--Steen
+  Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living
+  Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A
+  City of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel
+  by Boat--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful
+  Draught Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the
+  Market-Place--The Belle of the Market--Photographs--Wooden
+  Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword
+  of Columbus                                                        101
+
+  A CITY OF MANY ISLANDS
+
+  Amsterdam--The People of Holland--Amstel River--Merry
+  Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the
+  City--Source of Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety
+  Islands--Beams and Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street
+  Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient
+  Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The
+  Great Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The
+  Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music
+  in Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an
+  Artist--Hospitality--A Banquet                                     127
+
+  EXCURSIONS TO BROEK AND THE ISLAND OF MARKEN
+
+  A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The
+  Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein
+  Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch
+  Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull
+  Should Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal
+  Boat--Honesty and Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious
+  People--Farming and Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for
+  an Artist--Dead Cities of Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the
+  Age--City Lamps--Houses and People--The Island of Marken--An
+  Isolated Wonderland--First Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family
+  Doctor--Absence of the Men--The Fishing--Healthy and Industrious
+  Population--The Women of Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be
+  Taken--A Valuable Experience--Photographs                          149
+
+  THE ANCIENT TOWN OF MONNIKENDAM
+
+  Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient
+  Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The
+  Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone
+  Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient
+  Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult
+  Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the
+  Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the
+  Shops--Pantomime--A Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No
+  Candles--We Attract a Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken
+  Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A Stranger to the Rescue             177
+
+  OLD CUSTOMS AND QUAINT PICTURES
+
+  Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Gooden Morgen"--The Zuyder
+  Zee--By Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women
+  and Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and
+  Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the
+  People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug
+  Stores--Horretje--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave
+  their Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught
+  Girl                                                               205
+
+  A DUTCH CHEESE-MAKING DISTRICT
+
+  A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An
+  Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow
+  Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The
+  Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip
+  to Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled
+  Dogs--The Only Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay
+  Decorations--A United People--As a Hen and Her Brood--Their
+  Wealth is Their Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart Men and Sturdy
+  Women--A Higher Type--"I Have Enough"--Fishermen--The
+  Anchorage--A Volendam Suit                                         233
+
+  VOLENDAM SIGHTS, AND THE OLDEST TOWN ON THE RHINE
+
+  Church is Out--The Promenade--"Every Man is a Volume"--An Old
+  Suit--His Sunday Clothes--"Let Him Have It"--An Obedient Son--The
+  Silver Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An
+  Artist's Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient
+  City of Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful
+  Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public
+  Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Brühl                       255
+
+  ALONG THE BANKS OF THE RHINE
+
+  Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous
+  Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs
+  of Honor--Königswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The
+  Castle--The Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated
+  Ruin--The Splendor of the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the
+  Summit--The Students' Chorus--German Life--A German
+  Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and Lofty Mountains--Legends
+  of the Rhine--The Waters of the Rhine--Vineyards                   283
+
+  FROM BINGEN ON THE RHINE TO FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN
+
+  Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German
+  Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Rüdesheim--Niederwald--The
+  Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine
+  Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A
+  Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the
+  Ford--A Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of
+  Bishops--The City Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which
+  Rothschild was Born--Luther                                        313
+
+  A PRUSSIAN CAPITAL AND A FASHIONABLE RESORT
+
+  We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A
+  Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City
+  Streets--The Brandenburg Gate--Potsdam--The Old Palace--Sans
+  Souci--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering-Place--The Promenade--The
+  Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an
+  Artist--The Race-Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame
+  Fortune--The English Channel--A Bureau of
+  Information--Queenstown--An Irish Lass--The Last Stop--The End of
+  the Journey                                                        333
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations.
+
+
+                                                                   PAGE
+  Canal at Monnikendam                            (_Frontispiece_)
+
+  We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune                            17
+
+  She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail                      22
+
+  The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro                  26
+
+  Amongst these are two typical products of the British Isles,       30
+
+  This is a fine field for the student of human nature               35
+
+  Wayside Inn, New Brighton                                          39
+
+  Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs           43
+
+  Suburban residence                                                 48
+
+  White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks                                  65
+
+  A short run of an hour                                             74
+
+  The chalky cliffs of Dover                                         79
+
+  The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands       106
+
+  The place is intersected everywhere by canals                     112
+
+  In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water      117
+
+  The belle of the market                                           123
+
+  The Amstel River                                                  132
+
+  Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian                  141
+
+  The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle                   152
+
+  Most of the houses have a canal at the back                       156
+
+  The blue stream finds its outlet in the river                     161
+
+  All persuasions accomplish naught                                 165
+
+  One old woman is fascinated with the camera                       170
+
+  We walk along the narrow streets                                  176
+
+  Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike
+    scene                                                           182
+
+  Hotel de Posthoorn                                                187
+
+  De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam                                       193
+
+  There is a young man whose walk is all his own                    200
+
+  The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean             204
+
+  The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses  208
+
+  A street auction                                                  213
+
+  At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill          217
+
+  A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town                   221
+
+  Land and water                                                    228
+
+  A good road for the bicycle                                       232
+
+  This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town     241
+
+  The houses are roofed with red tiles                              245
+
+  The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces                        254
+
+  As the congregation draws nearer we halt before the foremost
+    group                                                           258
+
+  Every man is a volume if you know how to read him                 263
+
+  Goeden dag. Tot weerziens                                         267
+
+  Palace of Brühl                                                   276
+
+  Lovely walks, and bowery avenues                                  282
+
+  Not far off stands the statue of the artist                       287
+
+  The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock           293
+
+  How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable
+    fortresses                                                      302
+
+  Every turn of the river presents a different view                 306
+
+  Now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses  311
+
+  Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side    315
+
+  Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this
+    promenade                                                       338
+
+  There are many odd and fantastic sights here                      342
+
+  One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects    346
+
+  Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel              350
+
+  Several small boats are floating at our side                      355
+
+  Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can reach         359
+
+
+
+
+Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past.
+
+
+
+
+_Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past._
+
+  Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking Photographs--The
+  Landing Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the Country--Liverpool by
+  Night--Salvationists--Old Taverns--Chester--An English
+  Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The River Dee--Leamington--The River
+  Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and
+  Stoneleigh--"The King's Arms"--Nature's Pictures.
+
+
+We sight a steamer on our leeward side. A passing vessel is a great
+excitement on an ocean voyage. From the time when she first appears, a
+tiny speck on the distant horizon, every one is on deck watching her as
+she slowly climbs into full view, then draws nearer and nearer to our
+floating palace. How companionable she seems in the vast waste around
+us. We wonder to which line she belongs; what is her name; her speed,
+and whither she is bound: and now that she is within hailing distance,
+we await eagerly the result of the usual interchange of questions and
+answers by means of small flags and a certain code of signals, well
+understood throughout the nautical world. The following are some of the
+questions asked: "To what line do you belong?" "What is your port?"
+"Have you seen any icebergs?" "Met any wrecks?" "Are you a tramp?" and
+so on, until both sides are satisfied, then away she speeds on her
+course, while the passengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one
+another through their glasses until they are lost in the distance. The
+excitement is over, and we all return to our former occupations, or
+stand looking idly out to sea until once more there is a cry: "A sail! A
+sail!" and we begin to hope that she too is coming our way. Straining
+our eyes through the powerful field-glasses, we perceive that she is
+coming toward us, and will probably cross our line. Larger and larger
+she appears as she steadily advances, until she attracts the attention
+of every one on deck. She is now quite close to us, and proves to be a
+Barkentine under full sail. We shout a greeting to the crew, and wave
+our handkerchiefs as she passes, and the sailors smile in return and
+take off their caps.
+
+[Illustration: "We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune." (_See page
+16._)]
+
+The ocean air is delightful and invigorating, the sky a perfect azure,
+and the translucent waves with their foamy edges stretch away in long
+beautiful curves. We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune, as the waters
+plash softly over the steamer's sides, and we speed steadily forward,
+with the rush and swish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild
+sweet melody all its own. To fall asleep on deck amid these charming
+conditions is delightful indeed. But how quickly the scene changes.
+Suddenly a shrill whistle from the Quartermaster summons all hands to
+the deck. Orders are rapidly given in quick sharp tones: "Aloft. Take
+sail in." "Aye, aye, sir," is the swift response, in a twinkling the
+sure-footed sailors are up among the yards, perched in seemingly
+impossible places, reefing the flapping sails in preparation for the
+coming storm. Dark clouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below, and
+heaving billows surround us, uniting with a furious wind that seems bent
+on the destruction of our noble ship. The sailors in the rigging are
+swaying to and fro, and the panic-stricken passengers in the cabins are
+telling each other with pale faces that belie their words that they are
+not afraid, for there is no danger; yet they listen anxiously for every
+sound from above, and will not allow their dear ones to move beyond
+reach of their hands. There is no music now in the rushing of the waves
+or the flapping of the sails. Old Neptune in his angry moods is not a
+desirable companion. But nothing lasts forever, and from storm and night
+and black despair the flower of hope arises, for there comes a lull,
+followed by a furious blinding onslaught, and then the spirit of the
+hurricane calls his followers and flies up, away, somewhere beyond our
+ken: the captain's face relaxes from its tense expression, and he looks
+proudly around his good ship which has come out victor in the struggle
+with the elements. One by one, the passengers appear on deck, the purple
+clouds, after a final frown of disapproval at things in general, break
+into smiles, life on shipboard resumes its everyday attitude, and all
+goes "merry as a marriage bell." Life is full of contrasts. This is a
+picture for which neither brush nor camera is ready. He who would paint
+it must draw it from its recess in his memory, or from some sheltered
+nook on shore, and be cool and calm enough to follow his favorite
+occupation in spite of the consciousness that life and death are
+struggling for mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make him
+famous if he can but truly portray it upon his canvas.
+
+[Illustration: "She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail." (_See
+page 16._)]
+
+But there are many tableaux and picturesque situations here, very
+tempting to the traveller who carries with him his sketch book or
+camera, and I entertain my companions as well as myself by photographing
+many a little group both comical and interesting in the world around us.
+I invite our friends to the lower deck, where I wish to take pictures
+of some of the steerage passengers. Amongst these are two typical
+products of the British Isles--one a robust Irishman of shillalah fame,
+and the other a bonny boy from Scotland. I make known to them my desire
+to have their photographs, whereupon the quick witted Irishman, without
+doubt knowing the quality of his face, which is one of the ugliest I
+have ever seen, begins at once to bargain with me for the privilege of
+transferring it to my camera. It is true I could have stolen a march on
+him by a snap shot, and he been all unconscious of the act, but wishing
+to keep up the comedy I asked at what price he values his face. He
+replies that if I will take up a collection from the passengers around
+us, he will accept that as full pay. My friends of the cabin enter into
+the spirit of the play, and quite a goodly sum finds its way into the
+horny hand of the Hibernian athlete, who now, with a broad smile of
+satisfaction, intimates that he is ready to be "taken."
+
+These pictures too join the gallery of our yesterdays. Swift has truly
+said: "It is the talent of human nature to run from one extreme to
+another." The long voyage is over, and all hearts rejoice in the sight
+of land, and now we are upon the landing stage at Liverpool, amidst the
+throng of excited passengers, all moving hither and thither in search of
+baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the confusion of trunks, porters,
+policemen, drays and ubiquitous small boys. This is a fine field for the
+student of human nature. Here are groups of inexperienced travellers
+looking anxiously about them, wondering how it is possible to extricate
+their belongings from the indistinguishable mass before them, and
+laboring under the dread that when found, a fierce and merciless
+custom-house official will seize upon trunks and boxes, and deaf to all
+protestations, dump the contents, from a shoe to a hat, upon the floor,
+to the everlasting confusion of the owners and the amusement of the
+spectators. The cool indifference of those who have crossed the ocean
+many times is in marked contrast to these panic-stricken, and really
+pitiable creatures.
+
+[Illustration: "The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro." (See
+page 19.)]
+
+Then there is the "happy-go-lucky" youth, who finds all this tumult a
+great joke, and who wanders carelessly about, with the serene confidence
+that "things" will turn out all right; which they generally do. Here is
+the fashionable mother with her pretty daughters who evince a charming
+delight in everything that happens; the fussy mama who is sure that
+her baggage has not come ashore, or that the officers of the
+custom-house are in league against her; children separated from parents
+or nurses, shrieking wildly in their terror, while others, more
+venturesome and curious, are in every one's way. Porters elbow their way
+through the crowd, cabmen shout in stentorian tones, policemen watch the
+masses, and now and then in sharp curt tones call a delinquent to order.
+A placid looking old gentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor
+stands in the midst of a picturesque party of young people, evidently
+his grandchildren. They all look so happy that it seems contagious, for
+the troubled countenances of their neighbors break into sympathetic
+smiles as they glance at this joyous family group. Every shade of human
+expression may be observed in this motley throng, and he who has eyes to
+see will find many a charming tableau, many a pathetic scene or
+diverting situation that would enrich a sketch book, or prove a valuable
+addition to the collection made by the ready camera. The various changes
+of expression are worth studying, for where "luxuriant joy and pleasure
+in excess" appear at one moment, the next may behold an angry frown, and
+a struggle as if for life amid the surging tide of humanity.
+
+  "Now one's the better--then the other best
+   Both tugging to be victor, breast to breast
+   Yet neither conqueror, or is conquered."
+
+Taking a small steamer which plies between Liverpool and New Brighton,
+one may for a few cents, after a half hour's ride, land at an attractive
+and much frequented watering-place upon the bank of the Mersey River,
+opposite Liverpool. This resort is the pleasure-ground of the middle
+classes, and is well worth a visit. Upon a holiday many thousands flock
+to its shores which remind one of Vanity Fair, where numerous phases and
+conditions of life are represented. Here is the indefatigable and
+annoying travelling photographer with his "Four for a shilling. Take you
+in two minutes. Ladies and gentlemen, step in and see the finest
+pictures to be found in this country. Bridal groups a specialty."
+
+[Illustration: "Amongst these are two typical products of the British
+Isles." (_See page 23._)]
+
+Here are games of all kinds, pony and donkey riding, and all the shows
+to be found at the popular seashore resort. The "merry-go-round" is in
+full swing, with a crowd of spectators, among them many wistful
+children, watching the prancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses. The
+music here is quite inspiring, and the numerous small boys and maidens
+who lack the necessary pennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze
+at their more fortunate companions with woe-begone countenances. Strains
+less animated, but more melodious attract us to a fine dancing hall,
+where the older lads and lasses are tripping about in a lively manner.
+The light dresses, colored ribbons and happy faces make a pretty
+picture. Along the beach are beautiful views, worthy of a master hand,
+while out in the country the typical English houses with their massive
+thatched roofs and lovely surroundings of trees, lawns and gardens fair,
+cannot fail to captivate the artist's eyes.
+
+A stroll through the streets and byways of Liverpool at night is a sad
+but interesting experience. Alas for the misery and crime and want that
+exist in all the great cities! Girls, young and pretty, but no longer
+innocent, may be seen in scores in every locality: children with poverty
+and depravity written on their faces boldly address one at the street
+corners: men and women, with sharp, pinched features and misery and
+despair in their voices, beseech one for alms, or with fierce cunning
+lie in wait for the unwary. Sick at heart and with inexpressible pity we
+wend our way from one point to another. Vice, crime, want, suffering
+meet our eyes on every side: and the old hopeless cry: Why must these
+things be? rises up again in our souls. Through the whole night long
+upon the curb stones, at the corners, lounging against the windows and
+doors of closed houses or shops, this lower stratum of life appears with
+its atmosphere of dusky gloom. When the daylight dawns upon the city, it
+seems to shrivel up and shrink into the mouths of the yawning black
+cellars and foul alleys whose very breath is a deadly poison. There are
+dozens of taverns scattered about the city, and within these rooms or
+stalls are partitioned off where sin may be screened from public view,
+for even those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so low that they
+dare not carry on their nefarious operations in the face of their
+everyday companions. These dens are countenanced by the authorities, and
+one may find within them criminals of every grade who prey upon each
+other for their sustenance: but in the long run, it is the proprietor
+who comes out with a substantial bank account.
+
+Beggars, peddlers, musicians, singers of both sexes, and itinerant
+vendors of all kinds jostle each other in these haunts of sin, and great
+caution should be exercised in visiting them, for in certain localities,
+crimes of the most brutal character are of daily, I might say hourly
+occurrence. I would suggest that the tourist should at such times
+depend for safety upon the company of a first-class detective.
+
+Let praise be given where it is due. The Salvationists of Europe have by
+their indefatigable labors reclaimed thousands of these men and women
+from their lives of sin and misery. You will meet these untiring workers
+everywhere, exhorting, praying, pleading with fallen humanity. These
+noble bands of Christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome hovels,
+and, wrestling with filth and disease, in many cases come off
+victorious. They have been known to wash the clothing and cleanse the
+houses of fever-stricken families, and supply wholesome food and care
+for helpless infants, defied at every step by a drunken son or father.
+They fear nothing, knowing that their cause is God's cause, and that in
+the end Almighty Goodness shall win an eternal conquest.
+
+It is customary throughout England to close all the saloons on Sundays
+until noon, after which time they open their doors, and remain open till
+midnight as upon week-days.
+
+Of the many cities whose haunts I have visited at night, I think that
+without exception, unless it be London, Liverpool leads in depravity and
+vice.
+
+The country from Liverpool to Chester abounds in attractive scenery,
+local in character and possessing the additional charm of novelty for
+the American tourist. Along the route are scattered a number of old
+taverns, such as "The Horn," "The Green Tree," and similar names.
+Dismounting from bicycle or trap, the traveller who enters one of these
+ancient landmarks will find everything in "apple pie order": the floor
+clean and shining like a bright new dollar just launched from the mint.
+He will sit at a table within one of the three stalls on either side of
+the little room, and the landlord's wife will bring him a bumper of
+"good auld Al," the effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial,
+if it corresponds with my experience.
+
+[Illustration: "This is a fine field for the student of human nature."
+(_See page 24._)]
+
+Chester, oldest of English cities, is full of quaint residences and
+other ancient buildings. The old wall which surrounds the town is the
+only one in Great Britain which has been preserved entire. It forms a
+continuous ring, although in some places the earth has climbed so far
+above its base, that it appears no higher than a terrace. Its rugged
+outer parapet is still complete, and the wide flagging forms a
+delightful promenade, with a fine view of the surrounding country. The
+earliest date which we find upon the wall is A. D. 61, when it was
+erected by the Romans. Twelve years later, Marius, king of the
+Britons, extended the wall. The Britons were defeated under it in 607,
+and after a lapse of three centuries, it was rebuilt by the daughter of
+Alfred the Great. It has a long and eventful history, and the old
+Cathedral whose edge it skirts, is one of the largest and most ancient
+in England. The sculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn smooth
+by the hand of time. The stained glass windows are marvels of art, the
+groined arches, dreamy cloisters, and antique carving upon seats and
+pews fill one with admiration mingled with awe. There are many fine
+mosaics here, and specimens of wood from the Holy Land. Costly gems
+adorn the choir; here too is a Bible whose cover is inlaid with precious
+stones. The massive Gothic pillars are still in a perfect state of
+preservation, as well as the numerous ancient monuments and relics of
+the past. The vast size of the Cathedral is a perpetual source of wonder
+to the stranger, who, wandering among its curious historic mementos,
+gazing upon its storied nave, transepts and choir, and upon the Bible
+scenes pictured in these glorious windows, feels that he has been
+transported by some magician's hand into an age long buried in the past.
+The Cathedral is said to have been founded in the year 200. Its height
+within, from floor to the lofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows
+is from sixty to one hundred feet. The Church of St. John the Baptist
+rivals the Cathedral in antiquity, but it is now a picturesque ruin
+covered with moss and ivy.
+
+Chester itself contains many antiquities that are to be found nowhere
+else in the world. The houses, dating back to 1500, or even earlier, are
+of every degree of shade and color, with little windows with
+diamond-shaped panes, and gable ends facing the streets whose sidewalks
+are on a level with the second stories. Everything here seems to belong
+to the past, excepting the fine, modern station, ten hundred and fifty
+feet long, with its projecting iron roofed wings for the protection of
+vehicles waiting for passengers from the trains. This station is one of
+the longest in England. The famous Chester Rows are public passages
+running through the second stories of the houses facing the four
+principal streets. These arcades are reached by flights of steps at the
+corners of the streets, and contain some very attractive shops. The old
+timber-built houses of Chester with their curious inscriptions are all
+preserved in their original ancient style, and nowhere in England can
+the artist or photographer find a more interesting spot, or one
+richer in ancient and mediæval relics than this little town.
+
+[Illustration: "Wayside Inn, New Brighton." (_See page 31._)]
+
+The quaint old taverns carry one back, back, to the life of the past.
+Drop in at the Bear & Billet Inn some day, or The Falcon Inn, and yield
+yourself up to the charming mediæval atmosphere of the place. Seat
+yourself at the little table beside the window, and look out upon the
+same scene which your English ancestors looked upon more than two
+hundred years ago. The landlord's wife will bring you a foaming tankard
+of ale. It is the same tankard from which your forefathers quenched
+their thirst, and if you are of a contented, philosophical temperament,
+you will experience the same comfort and enjoyment as they, in this
+truly English beverage. If you are not fired with enthusiasm by this
+old-time picture, wend your way to the banks of the River Dee, where you
+may paint the greens in every variety of light and shade, with one of
+the picturesque old farmhouses which abound here in the foreground, and
+some "blooded" cattle resting quietly beneath the wide-spreading
+branches of the trees. Or here is the single wide arch of Grosvenor
+Bridge crossing the river, with a span of two hundred feet. This is one
+of the largest stone arches in Europe. Or here is a bit of the old wall
+skirting the water, and the charming picture of the Old Bridge, which
+dates back to the thirteenth century; and here too are the vast mills of
+the Dee, associated with the history and traditions of eight hundred
+years. With its surrounding country, and the succession of lovely
+gardens bordering the Dee, surely Chester is one of the choice spots in
+England for the lover of the quaint and beautiful. Within the pretty
+residences of the suburbs may be found all the comforts and recreations
+of a happy prosperous family life, united with genuine English
+hospitality, and a cordial welcome for the stranger. The owner of one of
+these charming homes orders up his cart, and insists upon taking us for
+a drive through this delightful locality, and for miles and miles our
+hearts and eyes are captivated by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits
+of scenery. We wind up with a cup of good hot tea, thinly cut buttered
+bread, and other dainties.
+
+[Illustration: "Typical English houses with their massive thatched
+roofs." (_See page 31._)]
+
+A decided change from the ancient and mediæval associations of Chester
+is the prosperous city of Leamington, a watering-place situated on the
+Leam River, a tributary of the Avon. The natural mineral springs
+discovered here in 1797 have proved the source of great benefit to this
+town, as the springs are highly recommended by physicians, and many
+invalids resort thither. But as health is not our object in coming,
+we do not follow the popular custom, but proceeding to the banks of the
+River Leam, engage one of the many small boats which may be hired, and
+drift leisurely down the stream with the current, revelling in the
+wealth of beauty which surrounds us. Hundreds of lovely nooks disclose
+themselves to our eager eyes--typical English scenes--and as we float
+along life assumes an ideal aspect under the witchery of this
+picturesque river. Here are old farmhouses in the foreground, with their
+richly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds of acres, and here
+are velvet lawns, with their dainty high-bred air, surrounding noble
+homes, stately and silent. Now a group of merry children dance about the
+water side, and a great Newfoundland dog dashes wildly into the stream
+after a ball or stick, swimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize.
+How the children scream and run away as he rushes joyously up to them,
+shaking the spray over their dresses and into their faces. Oh fair River
+Leam! these lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon your waters
+love you, and we too, strangers from a foreign shore, here yield our
+tribute of loving praise for the happy hours we owe to you, lingering
+often, reluctant to leave some especially charming spot where the
+branches of the trees overhang the stream, and touch our faces with
+soft caressing fingers.
+
+  "Nature was here so lavish of her store,
+   That she bestowed until she had no more."
+
+This scene too fades as we board one of the many tram-cars, and in a few
+moments are carried to the very gateway of the world-renowned Warwick
+Castle, which occupies a commanding position, overlooking the Avon. This
+ancient pile is artistically poised, and presents grand effects of
+color, light and shade. Upon the payment of a shilling for each person,
+the massive iron doors which for centuries have guarded this stately and
+historic stronghold, open as if by magic, and a passageway cut through
+the solid rock leads us to an open space, where we have a fine view of
+the magnificent round towers and embattled walls. A visit of two hours
+gives us opportunity to climb to the top of the ancient towers which for
+ages have loomed up as monuments of power and defiance in the face of
+the enemy. We are impressed with the vast size of the castle. The view
+from the towers and the windows is beautiful and romantic. In the
+spacious courtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft velvety
+turf, and the hand of time has colored towers and battlements a rich
+brown hue that blends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and out
+wherever it can find a place.
+
+[Illustration: "Suburban residence." (_See page 42._)]
+
+The gardens slope down to the Avon, from whose banks there is a
+picturesque view of the river front of the castle, and here as well as
+in the park we see some fine old cedars of Lebanon, brought from the
+East by the Warwick Crusaders. In the main castle we enter a number of
+the apartments which are furnished in a style of regal splendor. The
+Great Entrance Hall, sixty two feet long and forty wide, is rich in dark
+old oak wainscoting, and curious ancient armor; and shields and coronets
+of the earls of many generations, as well as the "Bear and Ragged
+Staff," of Robert Dudley's crest are carved upon its Gothic ceiling. The
+Gilt Drawing-room contains a rare collection of the masterpieces of
+great artists. This room is so called from the richly gilded panels
+which cover its walls and ceiling. In the Cedar Drawing-room are
+wonderful antique vases, furniture and other curios, which would well
+repay a much longer inspection than we can give them. But all the rooms
+in this magnificent old feudal castle are filled with the finest
+specimens of works of ancient art in every line. The paintings alone
+fill us with despair, for they line the walls in close succession, and
+the artists' names are Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Sir Peter
+Lely, Guido, Andrea del Sarto, and many others of like celebrity. What
+an opportunity for those who have the time to linger in this atmosphere
+of lofty genius!
+
+Many beautiful old shade trees surround the castle, and the restful
+silence inspires one with the desire to be alone and yield himself up to
+the spirit of the place, hallowed by such wealth of associations and the
+presence of immortal art.
+
+A short distance from the castle, and outside the Warwick enclosure,
+stands an old mill upon the bank of the Avon. This ancient and
+picturesque structure was originally built for the purpose of grinding
+wheat, but the all-observing eye of the artist quickly discovered in it
+a mission of a higher order, and for years it has posed as the central
+figure in the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush of the painter
+or the camera of the photographer.
+
+Taking a drag and driving through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh,
+will give one delightful views of some of the most beautiful portions of
+England. The roads are macadamized, and in good condition. This is a
+fine farming country, and here we see the typical English farmhouses,
+built of brick and stone, surrounded by well-cultivated fields,
+stretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape. The fields are
+separated by green hedges, and the whole scene is one that can hardly be
+surpassed throughout "Merrie England."
+
+From these lovely quiet homes, we pass through roads bordered with wild
+flowers to the ruins of one of the most magnificent castles in Great
+Britain. It is hardly necessary to say that Kenilworth is inseparably
+associated with Sir Walter Scott, and his graphic descriptions of the
+scenes and events that have taken place here in the days of its glory.
+This castle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial ruins in
+England, dates back to about 1120 A. D. It covered an area of seven
+acres, but is now a mass of ivy-covered ruins, from which one can form
+but a faint idea of its appearance in the height of its prosperity. Yet
+the hand of nature has invested it with another kind of beauty, and in
+place of the pomp and majesty of power, the brilliant pageants of the
+court of Queen Elizabeth, we behold the clinging robe of ivy, the
+daylight illuminating the gallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax
+torches which flashed their lights upon the royal cavalcade, and a
+little country road where once a stately avenue led to the tower, and
+listened to the court secrets, lovers' vows and merry badinage uttered
+within its shades. The castle has passed through many changes, and
+experienced stormy days as well as those of prosperity and luxury, but
+the pen of Scott has immortalized it on the summit of its glory, and
+though the ages may cast their blight upon its visible form, it will
+ever live in the soul of the artist, the poet, the lover of beauty, as a
+scene of splendor, of sorrowful tragedy, of magnificent design.
+
+But a few steps beyond the Kenilworth grounds is an old English inn--The
+King's Arms. It is so picturesque and romantic-looking, that I feel like
+rechristening it: "The Entire Royal Family."
+
+Let us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-time atmosphere and
+many curious attractions. Here the artist is in his element, for on
+every side are quaint corners, cozy nooks, and relics for which the
+lover of the antique would give a fortune; while outside the windows the
+beautiful English landscape beams upon one with inviting smiles. The
+landlady, with her cheerful bustling air and broad accent, imparts a
+pleasant thrill of anticipation, which is more than realized upon the
+appearance of the savory chops,--grown on the neighboring hillside,
+whose rich green pasturage is a guarantee for the flavor and quality of
+the meat,--the delicious hot cakes, and the unfailing tankard, or if
+one prefers it, the cup of fragrant tea. And so we sit and refresh the
+inner man, while the soul revels in the world of beauty around us, and
+picture after picture passes before the mental vision, connecting these
+scenes with famous historic characters, or wonderful events of legendary
+lore. So lovely are these views, that one could gaze for hours, and
+never weary of the "living jewels dropp'd unstained from heaven," for
+this picturesque country possesses a peculiar freshness, as though free
+from the touch of care and the hand of time, like the fair maiden who
+has received from the fountain of youth the gift of eternal life and
+beauty.
+
+
+
+
+Lights and Shadows of London Life.
+
+
+
+
+_Lights and Shadows of London Life._
+
+  The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and
+  Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An English
+  Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great Cities by
+  Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old Robin Hood
+  Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side Shows--The Close of
+  the Day.
+
+
+As nature derives much of its charm from the intermingling of light and
+shade, so in life there are many scenes of sharp contrast, and we often
+have a deeper appreciation of its beauties after beholding the reverse
+side of the picture. Some one has said: "In actions of life, who seeth
+not the filthiness of evil, wanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty
+of virtue."
+
+What better opportunity of studying this phase of life can there be,
+than in the faces of those whose existence is passed amid associations
+of suffering, want and crime; who not only witness, but experience all
+these in their different shades and degrees.
+
+Take with me a walk through the worst portions of the greatest
+metropolis in the world, and observe a few of the pictures in the
+localities where humanity is born and nourished in misery, filth and
+sin. Guarded by three of England's best paid detectives, I follow
+closely in their footsteps, not daring to speak lest I rouse in his lair
+the slumbering lion of passion and revenge. From street to street we
+pass, viewing the wretched tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling
+together over a faint spark of fire, or vainly trying to impart to their
+little ones some of the natural warmth which still exists in their
+bodies, in spite of hunger, cold and fatigue. The crumbs from the tables
+of the rich would be a lavish feast to these poor creatures. Clean water
+is as great a stranger to their stomachs as to their bodies; loathsome
+rags cover their emaciated forms, and the destroyer drink has left his
+signet upon their countenances. A little farther on is the vile dance
+house into which the inhabitants of this neighborhood crawl for the
+lowest stage of their degradation. A motley throng is assembled here,
+and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill laughter and drunken
+oaths.
+
+I am guarded so carefully that many times I am hurried away from a scene
+more quickly than I wish, the officers fearing that our presence may
+create a disturbance among these reckless characters. We enter a low
+saloon in a cellar dimly lighted by an old oil lamp: the atmosphere is
+gruesome, and one of the detectives warns me that the men who frequent
+this haunt are desperate fellows who would not hesitate to stab me for
+the sake of my clothing. Old and grizzled habitués line reeking walls,
+with depravity written upon every countenance, and I fully realize that
+my life would not be worth a moment's purchase here should my attendants
+forsake me.
+
+Now we are in a long narrow alley, as black as Erebus, which gives one
+the feeling of being in a subterranean passage upon some mysterious
+mission. In a few minutes a light appears ahead--a dull glimmering
+bluish light, like that which is supposed to hover above graveyards--and
+we pause in front of a small frame house of two stories. A knock upon
+the door brings to the threshold a little dried up, wizened Chinaman,
+made feeble by long dissipation, who in his broken language makes us
+welcome. The place is "Chinese Johnson's" opium den. How can I describe
+the scene that is before me? In this room are many small dirty cots
+filled with unconscious human beings, willing victims of the pernicious
+drug--a loathsome spectacle--and here on a small couch sits the
+proprietor of the establishment. This is his throne of state, and here
+he can smoke with impunity the deadly drug, which has no perceptible
+effect upon his depraved body. We are glad to end this experience and
+banish from our minds the unattractive picture of the Chinaman in his
+elysian fields.
+
+We are not the only ones who have the privilege of viewing these scenes.
+Any one who desires and possesses the necessary courage may invade the
+haunts and dens of the lower world, and be profited by the lessons here
+learned; but he must exercise great caution. The studies are not only
+for the brush and camera: they are food for the thoughtful mind which
+can apply the wisdom thus gained, and seek in these conditions for the
+solution of knotty problems. One can better appreciate, by reason of
+this contrast, the blessings of his own life; of purity, honesty and
+contentment as opposed to ignorance, poverty and vice.
+
+This evening, fatigued in mind and body by my experience in the slums of
+London, I enter the Holborn Restaurant, hoping to enjoy a good dinner,
+and at the same time be entertained by the delightful music of skilled
+musicians. I seat myself at a table on the second floor, and supposing
+myself free from intrusion, yield myself up to the charming melody,
+when a good-looking and well-dressed man approaches, and with many
+apologies asks if the seat opposite me is engaged. I assure him that I
+do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of the Holborn, and that I
+can speak only of the chair upon which I am sitting. Upon this he takes
+the opposite place and gives to the waiter an order for quite an
+extravagant supply of the dainties enumerated on the bill of fare.
+During the time intervening between the giving of the order and its
+delivery, no conversation passes between us, but I have an unpleasant
+consciousness of his presence, and occasionally feel his eyes resting
+upon me. The appearance of the epicurean repast seems to impart the
+confidence he requires, and he addresses me with the remark that I must
+pardon him for staring at me so impolitely, but he is sure he has met me
+before. Am I not an American? to which I assent. "Are you a New Yorker?"
+is the next interrogation from this experienced catechiser. He can
+readily perceive that I am an American by my foreign accent.
+
+To the last question I also respond in the affirmative, and may heaven
+forgive the falsehood. "Ah," he says, "do you frequent the races at
+Sheepshead Bay?" "Yes, generally," I reply. (I have never seen the
+place.) "It is there, then, that I have met you. Were you not there last
+summer?" "Many times." (Another breach of truth.) "Will you kindly give
+me your name?" follows as a matter of course. I reach my hand into my
+pocket and draw out a card upon which is engraved simply my name, and
+extending it toward him, remark: "My name is Charles M. Taylor, Jr., and
+I am associated with Mr. ----, one of the chief detectives at Scotland
+Yard. My present mission is to look up some 'Bunco' men from New York
+who have headquarters in London. Here is my card." But the stranger does
+not take the card. He glances hastily at his watch, and rising
+hurriedly, says: "It is nine o'clock. I did not know it was so late. I
+must be off, as I have an important engagement."
+
+As he pushes back his chair, I quickly call a waiter, and tell him to
+collect the money for this gentleman's order, as I do not wish to be
+held responsible for it. He pays for the meal which he has not touched,
+and in his haste to depart forgets his manners, for he does not wish me
+"good-night."
+
+Did he think I was a tender lamb? This hurts my pride somewhat. I am
+sorry, however, that I was obliged to deceive him so.
+
+One evening while discussing matters in general with an English friend,
+born and bred in the city of London, we touch upon the order and
+unswerving obedience of the soldiers, policemen and good citizens who
+dwell under the dominion of her gracious Majesty, the Queen, in the
+great metropolis; and my friend cites as an example, the guards who
+patrol nightly the White Hall Horse Guards Barracks, as adhering so
+strictly to their line of march that they will not turn out of their way
+one inch for any person or obstacle in their direct course. I accept the
+wager of a dinner at the Holborn to be given by me if I do not succeed
+in inducing one of these guards to move out of his line of march.
+Selecting a dark night for the one in which to make good my assertion, I
+approach the barracks, and espy the guard with bayonet at "Carry arms,"
+making a "bee line" toward me. I walk in his direction with head bent
+low, and come so close that there would be a collision were it not for
+the stern and firmly-uttered "Halt" that comes from his lips. I halt
+face to face with this noble specimen of humanity, standing fully six
+feet one in his boots, and as straight as "Jack's bean pole." "Sir," I
+say, "you are in my way, will you please move out?" He makes no
+response. "Will you please step aside and allow me to pass?" No
+response. "Come, my good fellow," I continue in persuasive tones, "I
+have made a wager that you will move out of line for me, and if you do I
+will share the bet with you." No reply. But I see in the immovable
+countenance an inflexible determination to do his duty which all the
+bribes in Christendom will not be able to change. I feel that death only
+can prevent his obedience to orders. "Well," I conclude, "you are a good
+fellow, and the power you serve, be it queen, emperor, or president, is
+to be envied for having such a faithful subject. I respect your
+obedience to law and order. Good-night." No response. It is needless to
+say that I pay the forfeit willingly, and my friend and I enjoy a good
+dinner at the Holborn.
+
+[Illustration: "White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks." (_See page 63._)]
+
+Strolling one morning about London, with nothing better to do than to
+take in "odd bits" that come in my way, I observe a large crowd of
+citizens assembled opposite the entrance to Parliament, and going up to
+a policeman, I ask what has happened, or is about to happen? But the
+officer looks perfectly blank, and can give me no information whatever.
+I bethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules governing information
+sought from guards, cab-drivers, and omnibus whips in the city of
+London, and straightway putting my hand in my pocket, I produce
+several pennies which I give him for a mug of "Half and Half." A change
+comes over his countenance, his vanished senses quickly return, and with
+a courteous smile he remarks that Gladstone is expected to appear in
+Parliament for the first time after an illness of some weeks. And this
+obliging "cop" not only gives me the desired information, but escorts me
+to a good position in the crowd, just in time to behold the "Grand Old
+Man," who, holding his hat in his hand, bows smilingly in response to
+the enthusiastic greetings which come from every side. He walks briskly
+along, and as he comes close to me, moved by an irresistible impulse, I
+step out from the throng, and extend my hand, saying: "I am an American,
+who wishes to shake the hand of the man who has so bravely fought a hard
+battle." The proud old face looks pleasantly into mine, his hand meets
+mine with a cordial grasp, and replying that he is glad to meet an
+American, Gladstone passes on to the scene of his many conflicts and
+victories.
+
+The tourist who is bent on seeing the various sections of a great city,
+and especially those localities which are best observed by night, should
+be very cautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty: such for
+example as the old Seven Dials of London, as it used to be. I have had
+many unpleasant and untold encounters, and been placed in situations,
+not only trying, but extremely dangerous, while attempting to explore
+these hidden regions unattended and alone. Experience has taught me that
+it is best to go "well heeled," that is accompanied by the best informed
+and most expert detectives, as what they may charge for their services
+is cheap in comparison with a mutilated head or body. One's own ready
+wit and shrewdness are all very well in some cases, but there are times
+when these fail, and the man at the other end, drunken, brutal, and
+excited, will make you wish you had "let sleeping dogs lie."
+
+It is well for travellers and others to visit the slums of large cities
+by night. Here is food for comparison and reflection, and from these may
+perhaps arise a different feeling from that with which we are accustomed
+to regard the poor wretches who have lacked the advantages of birth,
+education and environment.
+
+In company with four detectives, I visited the "Seven Dials" of London,
+and the experience of those nights spent in scenes of horror, vice and
+degradation would fill volumes. Picture to yourself a small narrow
+street, with low wooden houses of two stories on either side. There are
+dim glimmering lights at intervals of about fifty feet. The hour is two
+o'clock in the morning, as one tourist attended by four officers wends
+his way through an atmosphere filled with dread and horror. We enter
+some of the houses which present scenes of indescribable squalor and
+confusion. A perfect bedlam of tongues reigns here. Men and women hurl
+abusive epithets at each other, from windows and doors, as well as from
+one end of the street to the other. The entire neighborhood enters into
+the quarrel, and the transition from words to blows is sudden and
+fierce. The street is filled in an instant with ragged, and almost naked
+beings, whom one can hardly call human, and the battle which ensues with
+clubs, knives and fists is beyond imagination. Cut heads, broken limbs,
+bruised bodies, bleeding countenances appear on every side, and it is
+quite evident that many are scarred for life. The sight is loathsome,
+yet it makes one's heart ache. Such scenes are of frequent occurrence in
+the slums of nearly every large city, where drink and depravity count
+their victims by thousands. In these vile abodes are the haunts of the
+thief, the smuggler, the fallen, and the pictures once seen, are
+indelibly impressed on the memory, with the long train of reflections
+awakened by such sights, and the inevitable query: Why is not something
+done to render such scenes impossible in this age of civilization?
+
+At last the great Derby Day has arrived, and the whole atmosphere is
+filled with the importance of the occasion. The sprinkling rain does not
+dampen the ardor and enthusiasm of the true Englishman, for I am told
+that the races have never been postponed on account of the weather.
+After breakfast we stroll to the street corner where stands our tally-ho
+in readiness for the day's excursion. Having engaged our seats the
+previous day, we take our places and start forth, drawn by four spirited
+horses under the guidance of an experienced driver. The whip is cracked,
+the horn sends forth its musical signal, and away we go amid the cheers
+and applause of numerous spectators. Swiftly we roll over the well paved
+streets, and the high spirits of the company, accompanied by the
+frequent winding of the horn, render the ride extremely pleasant. The
+race-course is about eighteen miles out of London, and our road is
+through a beautiful portion of the country. Every lane and avenue is
+thronged with people, walking, driving, or on bicycles, but all going to
+the Derby. We stop for refreshment at the old Robin Hood Inn, an ancient
+hostelry, established, we are told, in 1409. Here we have a beverage,
+supposed to be soda water or milk, but which is in truth a stronger
+concoction, to brace us for the mental and physical strain of this
+exciting day. "All aboard," cries the coachman, and there is a general
+scramble for places. At last we are all seated, and proceed on our way,
+changing horses when half the distance is covered.
+
+We take the main thoroughfare within three miles of the Epsom grounds,
+and now a wonderful sight bursts upon us. Thousands of pedestrians of
+both sexes and every age are flocking toward the race course: hundreds
+of carriages, vans, dog carts, tally-hos, vehicles of every description
+throng the road. Enormous trains are constantly arriving, bearing their
+thousands to the Downs, now covered with a vast moving mass. London
+empties itself on this all-important day, and proceeds to Epsom by every
+possible means of locomotion. The grand stand, a handsome and commodious
+structure, is quickly filled to overflowing. There are numerous other
+stands. The appearance of the Downs, with the countless booths and the
+waving multitude which cover it as far as the eye can reach, is a
+spectacle that cannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic. No
+other event in England can concentrate such an amount of interest and
+excitement as is found on the scene of the Derby. Every one is in high
+spirits: young and old, men, women and children all seem merry and
+happy, laughing, singing, dancing along on this one great day of the
+year. Behold the party on our right. A large wagon contains ten or more
+men and women, who are singing and laughing in great glee, and who
+invite us to join them. Here a group of a half dozen men with musical
+instruments at their sides are singing to their own accompaniment. The
+dust rises in clouds, and we are covered from head to foot with it as
+with a garment: we all wear veils pinned around our heads to protect our
+eyes.
+
+At last we reach Epsom Hill, and here we pay two guineas for the
+admission of our party and conveyance. We are also entitled to a place
+anywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-course. Our horses are
+picketed after being taken from the wagon, and our two attendants spread
+before us a most sumptuous repast. Coaches of every kind are so thickly
+jumbled together that for a vast distance the hill seems covered with a
+coat of dark paint.
+
+[Illustration: "A short run of an hour." (_See page 83._)]
+
+Thousands and thousands of men, women and children are assembled upon
+this hillside, while tens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the
+race-course. It is estimated that no less than from one hundred
+thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand persons are massed together
+at these races.
+
+The race-course is not like those in the United States, but is a sodded
+strip extending about half a mile in a straight line. The ringing of a
+bell announces the commencement of the races, and the mass of humanity
+surges to and fro in great excitement. Now is the book-maker's time, and
+he passes hither and thither, shouting his offers to the enthusiastic
+multitude, who accept or reject his propositions with eagerness or
+scorn, corresponding with their knowledge or ignorance of the horses
+ventured. Gambling and betting are at their height: vast sums of money
+change hands at the conclusion of the races, and many inexperienced as
+well as reckless ones leave the field at night ruined men. Meanwhile the
+confusion is indescribable.
+
+But these sounds drop away, and silence prevails as five slender
+well-shaped racers appear, ridden by jockeys, but when the wild mad race
+begins in which each endeavors to outdo the others, the excitement and
+tumult know no bounds: shouts, groans, cheers fill the air, and every
+eye is strained along the course: one could readily believe that a
+whole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill the air with
+their hoarse discordant sounds.
+
+As the winning horse reaches the goal, a placard of large dimensions, on
+which his number is conspicuously painted, is raised within full view of
+the swaying crowd. The shouts and cheers burst forth afresh, and jubilee
+and pandemonium mingle their extremes in a scene to be imagined only by
+those who have experienced it.
+
+As the first excitement cools, bets are paid, and accounts squared.
+Again the bell rings: another race, and a repetition of the previous
+scene, and so it continues for several hours.
+
+But the racing is not the sole attraction, as is evidenced by the crowds
+surrounding the refreshment booths and side tents, where for a small fee
+one may see the Fat Woman, the Skeleton Man, or the Double-Headed Boy;
+or listen to the colored minstrels who charm the soul with plantation
+melodies; or have his fortune told in the gypsy tent by a dark-eyed maid
+in gorgeous attire, who will tell of a wonderful future which is "sure
+to come true." Or you may have your photograph taken on the spot, and
+finished while you wait. Here is a phonograph representing a variety
+entertainment, and the little group around it are laughing heartily at
+the jokes of the "funny man," the ventriloquist, and the story-teller.
+Here are fine bands of musicians, and dozens of oddities, and curious
+tricksters: and the whole forms one grand panorama of human life, the
+counterpart of which is to be seen nowhere else in the world.
+
+At five o'clock, the horses are harnessed to our tally-ho, and with
+smiling but dusty and sunburned faces we bid farewell to the scene of
+gayety and start for home. Every road and byway in the surrounding
+country is swarming with people, and the scale of pleasure,
+disappointment, grief, hilarity and fatigue is reflected in the
+countenances of riders and pedestrians. Here is a group, overheated,
+weary, dejected, trudging slowly along the way, interchanging scarcely a
+word with each other: here a merry party, filled with life, singing,
+laughing, recounting the events of the day, as they wander on, arm in
+arm. Now a little lame boy smiles in our faces from the tiny cart which
+his sister pushes cheerily forward, and now a gay belle dashes by in a
+carriage drawn by fast horses, holding the ribbons and whip in correct
+style, while her companion leans back, indolently enjoying the
+situation.
+
+The countenances of the men tell various tales, as the triumphs or
+failures of the day are expressed in their faces. Some few wear a
+stolid, impassive air, while others talk, talk, talk, as though they
+have never had an opportunity till now. As we ride along amid the
+stupendous throngs, many thoughts are aroused, and many a picture is put
+away in the recesses of memory to be brought forth and pondered over on
+a future day.
+
+With the shades of night the curtain falls upon a scene of such
+magnitude that the brain is weary of contemplating it, and is glad to
+find temporary forgetfulness in "tired nature's sweet restorer." And so
+ends the great Derby Day.
+
+[Illustration: "The chalky cliffs of Dover." (_See page 83._)]
+
+
+
+
+Scenes in the Gay Capital.
+
+
+
+
+_Scenes in the Gay Capital._
+
+  Dover to Calais--Paris--The Gay Capital by Night--Boulevards--Life in
+  the Streets--Champs Élysées--Place de la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place
+  Vendome--Louvre--Opera House--Palais Royal--Church of the
+  Invalides--Versailles--Notre Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The
+  Pantheon--The Banks of the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La
+  Morgue--Pere Lachaise.
+
+
+We travel from London to Dover by train, thence by steamer to Calais.
+The chalky cliffs of Dover with their high precipitous sides are a
+pleasant and restful farewell picture of the shores of old England. A
+short run of an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different from
+those of the past few weeks that we feel that the magician's wand has
+again been exercised and the "Presto, change," has transported us to a
+region of maliciously disposed genii, who will not understand us, or
+allow us to comprehend their mysterious utterances; and the
+transformation scene is complete as we enter Paris, the home of the
+light, the gay, the fantastic.
+
+Let the lover of the bright, the gay, the jovial, visit the broad
+boulevards of Paris by night, especially the Avenue des Champs Élysées,
+which seems to be the favorite promenade of the populace. Upon both
+sides are groves of trees, brilliantly illuminated by myriads of colored
+lights, and here amid these bowers is to be found every variety of
+entertainment for the people. Games of chance are played in the gay
+booths, Punch and Judy shows attract crowds of children, wonderful feats
+of horsemanship are performed, singers in aërial costumes draw many to
+the Cafés Chantants, and the lights of innumerable cabs and carriages
+flit to and fro in every direction like will-o'-the-wisps. Here is fine
+military music, as well as exhibitions of skillful playing on almost
+every known instrument.
+
+The wide boulevards are long, straight and marvels of beauty, with their
+lovely gardens, handsome houses, and fine shops.
+
+There are strong contrasts in the lives of those one sees upon these
+streets under the gaslight. I think Dante's three realms are pretty
+clearly represented along the avenues of Paris, beneath the starry dome
+of heaven, and within these gayly decorated booths and cafés. Here may
+be seen the high and the low, the rich and the poor, the grave and the
+gay, the innocent and the hardened in guilt, the adventurer and his
+unsuspecting victim. And this heterogeneous throng, this careless
+pleasure-loving crowd, may be seen drifting from one point to another
+till the cock crows the warning of approaching dawn. The streets of
+Paris by night afford abundant material for the artist, the
+photographer, the poet, author and clergyman; as well as the adventurer.
+Here indeed, if anywhere, one may
+
+                "read the human heart,
+    Its strange, mysterious depths explore.
+  What tongue could tell, or pen impart
+    The riches of its hidden lore?"
+
+The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful square in Paris. From its
+centre are magnificent views of the grand boulevards and many of the
+handsome public buildings, and here are the great bronze fountains
+marking the historic spot upon which stood the guillotine during the
+French Revolution. The lovely walks, the sparkling waters, and the
+statues and monuments, the obelisk, the merry strollers, and picturesque
+tableaux seen at every turn are positively enchanting. Up the broad
+vista of the Champs Élysées the eye rests upon the wonderful Arc
+d'Etoile, one of the most conspicuous monuments in Paris. It stands in
+the Place d'Etoile, one of the most fashionable sections of the city,
+and is surrounded by elegant residences and pleasant gardens. From this
+point radiate twelve of the most beautiful avenues in Paris, and from
+the summit of the arch one can see for miles down these grand
+boulevards. The magnificent arch of triumph, commenced in 1806 by
+Napoleon, was not finished until 1836. It is a vast structure, rising
+one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. The great central arch is
+ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide, and is crossed by a spacious
+transverse arch. Upon the outside of the arch are groups of splendidly
+executed statuary, representing scenes of conquest and allegorical
+figures. A spiral staircase leads to the platform on top, where one
+beholds this superb prospect which well deserves its world-wide
+celebrity.
+
+We come upon the Place Vendome through the Rue de la Paix, and here
+stands the great historic column, erected by the first Napoleon in
+commemoration of his victories over the Russians and Austrians. The
+monument is constructed of twelve hundred pieces of cannon, captured in
+the campaign of 1805. Upon the pedestal and around the shaft which is
+one hundred and thirty-five feet high, are bas-reliefs representing
+warlike implements and the history of the war from the departure of the
+troops from Boulogne to its end on the famous field of Austerlitz.
+
+In front of the central entrance to the court of the Tuileries, in the
+Place du Carrousel, is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, also erected by
+Napoleon I., in 1806, in imitation of the triumphal arch of Severus at
+Rome. In the garden of the Tuileries, with its old-time atmosphere, its
+statues, fountains and pillars, its groves and terraces, its historic
+ruins, its lovely flower-beds, we find a quaint and charming picture of
+a past age; yet when these groves and paths resound with the hum of
+human voices, when the many chairs and benches are filled with joyous
+human beings, the link between the past and present is established, and
+we are in one of the favorite resorts of the Parisians of to-day.
+
+Between the Tuileries and the Louvre is Napoleon's triumphal Arc du
+Carrousel--or rather between the courtyards of the two famous piles,
+which now form one continuous structure of magnificent architectural
+design, whose façade is adorned with Corinthian columns, elaborate
+sculptures and lofty pavilions. Groups of statuary, representing the
+most distinguished men of France, allegorical figures, floral designs
+and other decorations on a vast scale ornament these magnificent
+pavilions. The space enclosed by the old and new Louvres and the
+Tuileries is about sixty acres.
+
+Some of the most beautiful of the architectural designs of the Louvre
+were completed by Napoleon I.,--to whom it owes much of its
+restoration,--from the drawings of Perrault, the famous author of
+Bluebeard, and the Sleeping Beauty.
+
+We cross a square and quickly find ourselves in the garden of the Palais
+Royal, once the Palais Cardinal, and the home of Richelieu. The ground
+floor of the palace is occupied by shops. The garden which is enclosed
+by the four sides of the square, is about a thousand feet long and
+nearly four hundred feet wide. Here is a quadruple row of elms, also
+long flower-beds, shrubbery, a fountain and some statues. A military
+band plays here in the afternoon, but the garden presents the gayest
+scene in the evening, when it is brilliantly illuminated, and the chairs
+under the elms, as well as the long walks are filled with gay
+pleasure-seekers.
+
+There is a magnificent opera house near the Grand Hotel, whose vast
+exterior is ornamented with beautiful statuary, medallions, gilding and
+other rich decorations.
+
+In the Church of the Invalides we find the tomb of Napoleon I., who in
+his will expressed a desire that his ashes might rest on the banks of
+the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom he had loved so well.
+The open circular crypt is beneath the lofty dome, whose light falls
+upon it through colored glass, and with a wonderful effect. The pavement
+of the crypt is a mosaic, representing a great crown of laurels, within
+which are inscribed the names of Napoleon's most important victories;
+and twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests, surround the wreath.
+The sarcophagus rests upon the mosaic pavement within the crypt, which
+is twenty feet in depth. This is an enormous block of red sandstone,
+weighing more than sixty tons, which surmounts another huge block
+supported by a splendid rock of green granite. The scene is solemn and
+grandly impressive, the faint bluish light from above, producing an
+effect wholly indescribable. In the higher of the two cupolas, directly
+over the crypt, is a painting, with figures which appear of life-size
+even at this great distance, of Christ presenting to St. Louis the sword
+with which he vanquished the enemies of Christianity.
+
+Here is Versailles, with its "little park of twelve miles in extent, and
+its great park of forty," with its beautiful fountains and grottos, its
+wonderful groves and flower-beds. Here are velvety lawns adorned with
+fine statuary, green alleys, shrubberies and terraces, in which art and
+nature are so cunningly intermingled that they are often mistaken for
+each other. The fountains are representations of mythological
+characters, and the figures are carried out in their immediate
+surroundings. Apollo is in his grotto, served by seven graceful nymphs:
+while close by the steeds of the sun-god are being watered by tritons.
+Again, the basin of this god appears surrounded by tritons, nymphs and
+dolphins, with Neptune and Amphitrite in the centre, reposing in an
+immense shell.
+
+Latona, Apollo and Diana are represented by a fine group: the goddess is
+imploring Jupiter to punish the Lycian peasants who have refused her a
+draught of water, while all around her, in swift answer to her appeal,
+are the peasants, some partially transformed, others wholly changed into
+huge frogs and tortoises, condemned here to an endless penalty of
+casting jets of water toward the offended deity.
+
+Here is the famous old cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris with which
+Victor Hugo has made the world familiar. This grand Gothic structure was
+commenced in the twelfth century, and finished in the fourteenth. We
+view its exterior from a position facing the fine west façade, with its
+wonderful rose window between the huge square towers. The three
+beautiful portals are ornamented with rich sculptures and imposing
+statuary. These doors form a succession of receding arches, dating from
+the early part of the thirteenth century. The central portion is a fine
+representation of the Last Judgment. The interior is vast and impressive
+with its vaulted arches and long rows of columns. The ancient stained
+glass of Notre Dame is represented by three magnificent rose windows.
+From the summit of the tower there is a glorious view of the Seine and
+its picturesque banks and bridges: indeed one of the loveliest views in
+Paris.
+
+Another famous and beautiful edifice is the Madeleine, or church of St.
+Mary Magdalene, which stands in an open space not far from the Place de
+la Concorde. It is in the form of a Grecian temple, surrounded by
+Corinthian columns, and the flight of twenty-eight steps by which one
+approaches the church, extends across its entire breadth. The great
+bronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments.
+Within, the walls and floors are of marble richly ornamented, and the
+side chapels contain fine statues, and paintings of scenes from the life
+of Mary Magdalene. The high altar is a magnificent marble group
+representing angels bearing Mary Magdalene into Paradise. This whole
+interior is indescribably beautiful, and to enter into its details one
+would require a volume. From this sublime spectacle we pass to the
+Church of St. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of Paris,
+familiarly known as the Pantheon. This also is a magnificent structure,
+with three rows of beautiful Corinthian columns supporting its portico.
+The handsome pediment above this portico contains a splendid group of
+statuary in high relief, representing France in the act of distributing
+garlands to her famous sons. The central figure is fifteen feet in
+height. The edifice is in the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a
+majestic dome, two hundred and eighty feet high.
+
+Within the church the spacious rotunda is encircled by Corinthian
+columns which support a handsome gallery, and he who ascends to the dome
+will have an opportunity of observing closely the wonderful painting,
+covering a space of thirty-seven hundred square feet, which represents
+St. Genevieve receiving homage from Clovis, the first Christian monarch
+of France, Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., while the royal
+martyrs of the French Revolution are pictured in the heavenly regions
+above. In the gloomy vaults below we behold the tombs of a number of
+eminent men, among them those of Rousseau, Voltaire, and Soufflot, the
+architect of the Pantheon. In the middle of the vaults is an astonishing
+echo. The roll of a drum here would sound like the thunder of artillery;
+a board dropped upon the pavement is like the report of a cannon, and
+the reverberations are repeated over and over again as though these
+subterranean spirits are loth to resign the opportunity of speech so
+seldom afforded them.
+
+The tourist in Paris rarely fails to spend at least one evening in the
+Jardin Mabille; that is the male tourist, who is curious to behold life
+in all its phrases, and whom the fame of the garden attracts as the
+candle draws the moth. This is a pretty spot, with bowery paths, gay
+flowers, sparkling fountains, arbors and sheltered corners where lovers
+and others may enjoy tête-à-têtes undisturbed, and refreshments may be
+ordered to suit purses of all dimensions. There is a good orchestra on
+the brilliantly illuminated stand, and here the soubrette is in the
+height of her glory, while the better class of the visitors are as a
+rule, only spectators. There is some pretty gay dancing here, but order
+is preserved. On certain nights fine displays of fireworks attract many
+spectators. But the great feature is the dance, and the proprietors
+generally employ some girls distinguished by peculiar grace, beauty, or
+other characteristics who serve as magnets to the light and
+pleasure-loving throngs.
+
+But why attempt to give even a faint idea of the innumerable attractions
+of the city whose abundant resources bewilder the tourist whose time is
+limited. It teems with life. It is overflowing with beauty, passion and
+love. Wandering along its gay boulevards, whether in the bright
+sunshine, or beneath the starry vault of night, with picturesque
+mansions or gay shops on either side, or amid the bowery paths and
+bewitching avenues, the gardens, statues, music and laughter, one feels
+that he is in an enchanted land, where high and low, rich and poor share
+alike in the universal beauty and happiness.
+
+The charming banks of the Seine offer endless attractions. Here are many
+beautiful bridges, from which one may have picturesque views of the
+lovely gardens and palaces. These bridges are handsomely ornamented with
+statuary, bronzes, and reliefs, and bear interesting inscriptions.
+Floating bathing establishments are to be seen along these banks, and
+swimming schools for both sexes. Here are also large floats or boats
+capable of accommodating at least fifty women, who wash their clothing
+in the Seine. It is quite interesting to watch these robust girls and
+women, as they pat and slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles
+provided for this purpose.
+
+When a death occurs in a family of the middle class in Paris, it is
+customary to drape the whole lower story of the house with black, and
+place the body of the deceased in the front room. Holy water is placed
+at the head, also candles and a crucifix, and any one may enter and view
+the body, or sprinkle it with holy water, and offer a prayer for the
+soul of the departed.
+
+The men who pass a house so distinguished reverently uncover their
+heads: they also take off their hats on the appearance of a funeral, and
+remain so until the procession has passed.
+
+For him who is interested in such sights, the morgue presents a curious
+but sad attraction. Here lie on marble slabs, kept cool by a continuous
+stream of water, the bodies of unknown persons who have met their death
+in the river or by accident. Their clothing is suspended above their
+heads, and any one may enter and view these silent rows. After a certain
+period, if not identified, they are buried at the public expense. I
+behold many pathetic sights here, as broken-hearted relatives find their
+worst fears realized and lost and erring ones are recognized. Sad, sad
+are the pictures to be seen at the morgue. Here is a fair young girl, of
+not more than twenty years, resting peacefully upon her marble bed, her
+troubles in this world over forever. Her body was found yesterday
+floating on the Seine.
+
+  "One more unfortunate
+     Weary of breath,
+   Sadly importunate,
+     Gone to her death.
+
+  "Touch her not scornfully;
+   Think of her mournfully,
+     Gently and humanly;
+   Not of the stains of her,
+   All that remains of her
+     Now is pure womanly.
+
+  "Make no deep scrutiny
+   Into her mutiny
+     Rash and undutiful:
+   Past all dishonor,
+   Death has left on her
+     Only the beautiful."
+
+Pere Lachaise, once an old Jesuit stronghold, is now the largest
+cemetery in Paris. It is said that there are more than eighteen
+thousand monuments here. The older part is much crowded, and we find
+here famous names connected with every age and profession.
+
+Here is a granite pyramid, here one of white marble, and here the love
+of a nation commemorates with flowers the grave of a man whose
+resting-place no lofty monument marks, but who "lives forever in the
+hearts of the French people." Here a monument whose sides exhibit
+bas-reliefs of the fable of the fox and stork, and the wolf and lamb, is
+surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black marble. This is the
+tomb of Lafontaine. The little Gothic chapel yonder is the tomb of
+Abelard, whose effigy lies upon the sarcophagus within, and beside it is
+that of Heloise. This double monument is very lovely, although the signs
+of neglect and decay are plainly visible.
+
+The military chiefs of Napoleon's day sleep in this cemetery, and here
+lie the mortal remains of St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia,
+of the great painter, David, of Pradier, the sculptor, the actress
+Rachel, and hundreds of others with whose names we are all familiar. The
+grounds are picturesque with winding paths, and cypress groves, and
+wreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the loving remembrance in
+which the dead are held by the living. The elevated position of Pere
+Lachaise gives one a fine view of the city. The grounds when first laid
+out in 1804, covered upward of forty acres; they now extend over more
+than two hundred acres, and it is said that $25,000,000 have been
+expended in monuments since this cemetery was opened.
+
+
+
+
+Antwerp and the City of Windmills.
+
+
+
+
+_Antwerp and the City of Windmills._
+
+  From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs
+  in Harness--The River--Old Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative
+  Listener--Steen Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living
+  Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A City
+  of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel by
+  Boats--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful Draught
+  Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the Market-Place--The Belle of
+  the Market--Photographs--Wooden Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the
+  Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword of Columbus.
+
+
+The country between Paris and Antwerp is delightful, and very different
+from the lovely landscapes of England. Farms, towns, villages, all
+present a novel aspect, and the people speak a language very strange to
+our ears. The great fields along the road are not fenced in but are only
+distinguished from one another by the difference in the appearance of
+the crops. In England, as I have said, there are beautiful hedges
+everywhere separating the fields and meadows.
+
+Here are strong men and women working side by side in the fields. Here
+are buxom country lasses, rope in hand, one end of which is attached to
+the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle. These are glowing pictures,
+and the clean farmhouses, fields and roads are abundant evidences of the
+industry and thrift of the people.
+
+Antwerp may well be termed a city of charms and fascinations. It is the
+most attractive and interesting town in Belgium, and at the same time
+one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Our first impression of this
+place is of clean orderly streets, paved with the square Belgian blocks
+which endure so well the wear and tear of constant travel. The houses
+and shops are of a quaint, ancient style of architecture, and very
+picturesque effect. During the middle ages, Antwerp was a very
+important, as well as wealthy city, and its splendid docks, its
+wonderful cathedral, its magnificent paintings all testify that a period
+of exceptional prosperity has been granted to it in the past.
+
+A strange sight are the heavy freight wagons, with their broad wheels
+and various loads, drawn by large powerful dogs. In many cases the dogs,
+of which there are sometimes two or three, are strapped under the body
+of the wagon by a kind of leather harness, or, if the owner be too poor,
+rope is substituted. A man or woman assists in drawing the load, which
+is frequently so massive as to appear disproportioned to the combined
+strength of man and beast. The dogs are bred and trained for their
+peculiar vocation, and are never allowed to shirk their part of the
+burden imposed upon them. Should they attempt to do so, they are quickly
+recalled to their duty by a small whip, hence the maximum result may be
+obtained from their labor. Their muscular limbs show plainly that they
+possess great strength and endurance. Large powerful draught horses with
+well defined muscles are also used. These horses must weigh fully from
+twelve to sixteen hundred pounds, and when four or six are harnessed
+abreast, tons of merchandise may be moved in one load. Antwerp, a city
+of about 260,000 inhabitants, is one of the greatest seaports of Europe,
+having splendid facilities for ships of every size, and huge warehouses
+for the landing and storage of immense quantities of merchandise. It is
+finely situated on the Schelde, which is at this point one third of a
+mile wide and thirty feet deep, and serves as an outlet for the commerce
+of Germany as well as Belgium. The town was founded in the seventh
+century, and has passed through many vicissitudes, attaining the summit
+of its glory under the Emperor Charles V., about the close of the
+fifteenth century. At that period it is said that thousands of vessels
+lay in the Schelde at one time, and a hundred or more arrived and
+departed daily. Its decline began under the Spanish rule, when the
+terrors of the Inquisition banished thousands of its most valuable
+citizens, who sought refuge in other countries, especially in England,
+where they established silk factories, and assisted greatly in
+stimulating the commerce of the country. After scenes of war and
+frightful devastation, varied by brief seasons of prosperity, the tide
+of success once more returned to the old harbors about 1863, and since
+then its commerce has increased in a greater ratio than that of any
+other European city. The Flemish population predominates, and its
+characteristics are those of a German town.
+
+We enjoy many lovely views along the river frontage, where dozens upon
+dozens of ships lining the banks, offer a variety of pictures to the
+lover of water scenes, besides the fine prospect of the town from the
+river.
+
+[Illustration: "The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the
+Netherlands." (_See page 107._)]
+
+That the Cathedral is the first attraction for the tourist goes without
+saying, and those are well repaid who climb far up into its magnificent
+spire, even beyond the great group of bells that captivate the soul with
+their wonderful sweetness and melody. At a height of four hundred feet,
+the vast prospect spread out before one is indescribably beautiful.
+This Cathedral, the largest and handsomest Gothic church in the
+Netherlands, was begun in 1352, but was not completed until about 1616.
+The chimes consist of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is only
+fifteen inches in circumference, while the largest weighs eight tons.
+The chimes are rung every fifteen minutes, a musical reminder that the
+soul of man, no matter what his occupation, should be elevated by
+continual aspiration toward the living God. Oh, these beautiful chimes!
+What wondrous harmony they peal forth, and what a multitude of loving
+thoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very gates of heaven!
+
+A stranger in the town, and a traveller, made the remark to me that
+these bells must be very annoying, ringing at such short intervals, and
+especially at night. "It is worse than a swarm of mosquitoes," he said,
+"for one can escape the attentions of these insects by placing a net
+over his couch, but the piercing sounds of these monstrous bells
+penetrate one like the chill of zero weather." This reminded me of a man
+who shared our compartment in one of the French railway cars, who
+interrupted my enthusiastic remarks on Westminster Abbey, its exquisite
+associations, and the sacred atmosphere which impressed all who came
+within its hallowed walls, by an eager question regarding the luncheon
+to be served an hour later.
+
+The interior of the Cathedral impresses one with its grand simplicity,
+and the long vistas of its six aisles present a fine effect. Here is
+Rubens' famous masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross, and his earlier
+painting, the Elevation of the Cross, both magnificent works, remarkable
+for the easy and natural attitudes of the figures. The high altarpiece
+is an Assumption by Rubens, in which the Virgin is pictured in the
+clouds surrounded by a heavenly choir, with the apostles and other
+figures below.
+
+There are many other paintings here; also stained glass windows, both
+ancient and modern. The tower is an open structure of beautiful and
+elaborate design, from which lovely views may be seen during the journey
+to its summit.
+
+Another interesting landmark is the "Steen" originally forming part of
+the Castle of Antwerp, but in 1549 Charles V. made it over to the
+burghers of Antwerp. It was afterward the seat of the Spanish
+Inquisition. It is now occupied by the Museum van Oudheden, a collection
+of ancient and curious relics from the Roman times till the eighteenth
+century. Within this building one may view the identical instruments of
+torture so mercilessly used by the Spanish inquisitors in the name of
+religion. It would not be difficult to photograph these diabolical
+inventions, for many of them are quite free from the surrounding
+objects, and not encased. In this collection we see also specimens of
+antique furniture, and a variety of ornaments, coins, costumes, tapestry
+curtains, ancient prints and engravings, and many other objects well
+worthy of observation.
+
+In Antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing some exquisite laces and
+embroideries. A visit to one of the many establishments here cannot fail
+to interest the stranger. At one of the shops we are conducted to a room
+in which a dozen girls are at work upon a delicate piece of lace. They
+have been engaged upon this masterpiece for about three months, and the
+proprietor tells us that as much more time will be required to finish
+it. The design is a huge web, in the centre of which is the sly spider
+apparently watching the victims who have strayed beyond the line of
+safety. A number of handsome and rare specimens of this valuable
+handwork are exhibited in the shop window, and one's desire to possess
+them may be satisfied by a moderate expenditure of money.
+
+
+Antwerp is the city of Rubens. We find his tomb in the beautiful church
+of St. Jacques, rich in carvings and noble paintings, not far from the
+fine altarpiece painted by his hand. He lies in the Rubens Chapel, and
+here too are monuments of two of his descendants. The house in which the
+illustrious artist died stands in a street named for him, and in the
+Place Verte, formerly the churchyard of the Cathedral, stands a bronze
+statue of Rubens, thirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet
+high. At the feet of the master lie scrolls and books, also brushes,
+palette and hat; allusions to the talented diplomatist and statesman, as
+well as to the painter.
+
+One need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in this charming old town,
+for comfortable accommodations and good board may be enjoyed at less
+than moderate rates. I love this dear city, not only for its magnificent
+Cathedral, its rare paintings, its picturesque surroundings; but also
+for the remarkable hospitality of its people, their genial manner, their
+smiling faces. Their candor and honesty win the admiration and the heart
+of the tourist, and the stranger is quickly at home, and able to enjoy
+most fully the many attractions which the place affords.
+
+[Illustration: "The place is intersected everywhere by canals." (_See
+page 113._)]
+
+But the time has come to bid it adieu; we take the train and in two
+hours find ourselves in the ever quaint and picturesque town of
+Rotterdam, fitly named the "City of Windmills."
+
+Comfortable quarters may be found here at the Maas Hotel. Rotterdam,
+whose population is something over two hundred thousand, is the second
+city in commercial importance in Holland. Among its numerous attractions
+are art galleries, parks, gardens, the markets, bridges and canals,
+without mentioning the many windmills which wave their arms in blessing
+over the city. The place is intersected everywhere by canals, all deep
+enough for the passage of heavily laden ships, and with such names as
+the Oude Haven, Scheepmakershaven, Leuvehaven, Nieuwe Haven, Wynhaven,
+Blaak, and Haringvliet.
+
+Our hotel is situated upon the bank of the Maas River, and our windows
+overlook this body of water, which is in reality a highway. Instead of
+wagons drawn by strong muscular horses, however, barges, schooners, sail
+boats, and every kind of small craft, overflowing with fruits,
+vegetables and other produce, traverse the river as well as the canals.
+Looking over these watery roads, the mind is confused by the hundreds of
+boats which seem inextricably mingled in one great mass, and appear to
+form a blockade as far as the eye can reach. Rotterdam might fitly add
+to its title of "City of Windmills," that of the "City of Canals."
+Houses, stores and other buildings are built directly upon the banks,
+and in fact, the foundations of these form the sides of the canals. In
+many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water, and passages
+are made beneath, by means of which produce, freight and other articles
+are conveyed to and from the buildings by boats, much as the wagons
+deliver goods in our cities from the streets to the houses.
+
+All these novel sights impress the visitor with the great difference
+between the manners and customs of this nation and our own; the result
+of the peculiar environment of the two countries. A stroll about the
+city affords abundant opportunity for interesting observations. Here one
+sees hundreds of Dutch women in their costly headgear of gold and
+silver, heirlooms of many generations. These head ornaments sometimes
+cover the entire scalp, and have curious filigree additions extending
+over the ears and temples. The head is first covered with a scrupulously
+clean and beautiful lace cap, upon which the gold or silver ornament is
+placed. These heirlooms are valued beyond all price, and I have handled
+some which are two hundred years old, and which are held as sacred
+charges to be transmitted to posterity.
+
+As we traverse the streets of this quaint city, we feel indeed that
+fashion has stood still here for many years. The custom is universal
+throughout Holland for the natives of the different provinces, as
+Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in public, and especially when
+travelling, the costume peculiar to their own province, and it is by no
+means uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed women in close
+proximity to one another, each one representing by some peculiarity, a
+different province or section of the country. For instance; when I see
+the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds, and worn with a jacket of
+striped red and white, and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white
+tape, I know that the wearer is a native of the island of Marken. These
+various costumes, all gay and picturesque, are the source of great
+pleasure to the stranger, and add new life and interest to his travels
+in this country.
+
+Here also we notice the huge, powerful draught horses, with their
+massive hoofs and shaggy legs, drawing strange looking wagons laden with
+curious boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn by the working
+classes also attract our attention and many other novel sights and
+customs give us the impression that we have chartered one of Jules
+Verne's original conveyances and wandered off to a country not located
+on this earthly planet.
+
+Wishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a candy shop and ask the fair
+maid behind the counter to put up a pound of this confection: our
+amazement is great when she replies that this form of sweetmeat is not
+to be found in Rotterdam. "What," I exclaim, "no sweets for the sweet
+girls of Holland?" "No, only chocolate candy." And this indeed is the
+only kind of bonbon to be had in Rotterdam. The sweet chocolate is
+moulded into various shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity and
+flavor that which is made in any other part of the world.
+
+[Illustration: "In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the
+water." (_See page 114._)]
+
+Our guide is very attentive and energetic; and anxious to show us
+everything of interest about the town, he conducts us through the
+numerous market-places. At one of these some amusement is excited by my
+photographs and sketches of the market people and the buyers. The market
+man stands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured face that seems
+to say that the cares and worries of this world affect him not at
+all. The whole scene is like some vividly colored picture, and I think
+as I look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of which we of
+the outside world know nothing. Apparently the people of this country
+possess the rare blessing of contentment with the lot which God has
+bestowed upon them.
+
+An old man and woman are particularly anxious for me to photograph their
+daughter, who they assure me is the belle of the market. This assertion,
+I think, may be true without much compliment to the girl, for a homelier
+set of human beings it would not be easy to find. After some
+preliminaries relating to posing and keeping back the curious country
+people who crowd closely around me and the camera, I finally succeed in
+making a good picture of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her
+father and mother on either side. They are all as proud as Punch of this
+performance, and seem quite "set up" by the occasion.
+
+One day being near to a manufacturer of the wooden shoes worn by the
+peasants, our party of four slips within the shop, and are fitted after
+trying on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent delight of Meinherr.
+It is necessary to wear a heavy woollen stocking to secure comfort in
+these shoes. The ordinary American stocking would soon be rubbed into
+holes by the hard surface of the shoe. Indeed it is quite a feat to be
+able to walk rapidly and gracefully in this clumsy footwear.
+
+Over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges are built, which
+are opened at intervals to allow the streams of boats to pass. The
+incessant blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the tally-ho
+notifies the watchman of the approach of boats. This sound may be heard
+at all hours of the day or night in any part of the city, and is at
+first, especially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger, but like
+other annoyances which are inevitable, the exercise of a little patience
+and endurance will enable one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to
+become as deaf to them as old "Dame Eleanor Spearing."
+
+I know of no place in which the lover of the antique, whether he is a
+collector of ancient coins, jewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after
+rare curios and relics, can experience greater delight than in this old
+city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of shops, whose proprietors devote
+their whole lives to the accumulation of such objects, and it is
+needless to say that their stock is rich and unique, and possesses
+abundant variety. We visit a number of these establishments, and I
+succeed in gathering up a large assortment of old swords which please my
+fancy. One of these is said to have been owned by Christopher
+Columbus(?). The shopkeeper vouches for the truth of the statement, and
+as I am willing to believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary,
+I label it as the sword of the great navigator who added a new
+hemisphere to our globe. The remaining swords have been the personal
+property of lords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and again I
+take comfort in the thought that if the records are not truthful, it is
+a minor consideration when taking into account the moderate prices which
+I have paid for the articles.
+
+The artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of material both for figure
+subjects, and odd and picturesque bits of landscape. Here too are
+wonderful interiors, with all the quaint associations of a bygone age.
+Here are scenes on the canals, the bridges, and the ever changing life
+on the river. By all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original
+studies for your sketch book.
+
+[Illustration: "The belle of the Market." (_See page 119._)]
+
+
+
+
+A City of Many Islands.
+
+
+
+
+_A City of Many Islands._
+
+  Amsterdam--The People of Holland---Amstel River--Merry
+  Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the City--Source of
+  Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety Islands--Beams and
+  Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street
+  Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient
+  Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The Great
+  Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The
+  Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music in
+  Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an Artist--Hospitality--A
+  Banquet.
+
+
+Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Holland, is but a short ride from
+Rotterdam, and like all the other "dam" cities of this region, possesses
+many attractions of its own, besides being the centre or hub from which
+radiate trips to many picturesque towns and other points of interest.
+
+These irreverent sounding terminations do not by any means imply that
+the cities so called are steeped in wickedness and crime. On the
+contrary they are remarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and
+honesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools which bear witness
+to the good and loving aspirations of a conscientious Christian people.
+
+The natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in disposition, and fair
+in their dealings with one another. They are personally very attractive
+on account of the natural simplicity of their everyday lives, and the
+high principle of honor and morality upon which they conduct their
+business transactions. They train their children in accordance with
+these principles, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate their
+virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that he will receive fair
+and courteous treatment from both young and old.
+
+The Amstel River, viewed from the windows of our hotel, presents a
+beautiful picture. Upon the opposite bank are handsome residences, of
+substantial, square and regular architecture, while in slow, calm motion
+on the river may be seen boats of every description, many of them with a
+cargo of human beings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant
+bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance as the boats
+steam or row past our hotel. Merry songs and happy laughter drift back
+to our ears, and it seems as though we have at last reached a land
+exempt from the cares and sorrows of the everyday world.
+
+The Dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied, with a cheerful
+manner, and a cordial and genuine welcome.
+
+Amsterdam is indeed a great city, with numberless points of interest for
+the visitor, without mentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres,
+libraries, churches and other institutions; its botanical garden,
+university, parks and tramways.
+
+The town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of Amstel, who built a
+castle here in 1204, and constructed the dam to which it owes its name.
+In the fourteenth century it began to increase in importance, becoming
+at that time a refuge for the merchants who were banished from Brabant.
+At the close of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was ruined by the
+Spanish war, and many merchants, manufacturers, artists and other men of
+talent and enterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to
+Holland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population, and the conclusion of
+peace in 1609, and the establishment of the East India Company combined
+to raise the town within a short time to the rank of the greatest
+commercial city in Europe. Its population in 1890, excluding the
+suburbs, was 406,300.
+
+Amsterdam is generally at first sight compared with Venice, which it
+certainly resembles in two points. Both cities are intersected by
+numerous canals, and the buildings of both are constructed upon piles;
+but there the similarity ends. There are wide, bustling thoroughfares in
+Amsterdam, traversed by wagons and drays which could have no place in
+the city of gondolas and ancient palaces.
+
+[Illustration: "The Amstel River." (_See page 128._)]
+
+The canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amsterdam in every direction,
+are of various sizes, and divide the city into ninety islands; and these
+are connected by nearly three hundred bridges. There are four principal,
+or grand canals, which are in broad, handsome avenues, bordered with
+trees, and with sidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals intersect
+these and serve to connect one part of the town with another, as short
+streets cross wide highways and main thoroughfares in other places. Rows
+of fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses, and as all
+the buildings are constructed on foundations of piles, the old quotation
+of "a city whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like rooks," is
+not without considerable truth. The quaint old architecture of the
+stores and houses is of itself a source of great interest to the
+visitor. We have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and tiled
+roofs overhanging the windows, that at first one has the impression of
+awakening from a dream to its reality. Remarkable order and
+cleanliness prevail everywhere, adding to this feeling, for the wear and
+tear of daily living do not seem to affect the almost immaculate
+atmosphere of the place. Windows are as clear as crystal, and the
+woodwork of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly scrubbed and
+sanded. Projecting from the attic windows of many buildings may be seen
+a pole or beam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to hoist
+furniture and other heavy or bulky articles from the sidewalk to the
+upper stories. These things are not carried up the winding stairway, as
+with us, scratching and defacing the walls and paint, as well as the
+furniture, and resulting in much vexation and the utterance of unseemly
+swear words. All this is avoided by the methods of the people of
+Holland, and the citizens of America would profit by adopting them, if
+only as a means of avoiding the temptation to express one's feelings in
+violent and irreligious language.
+
+Among the thousand and one attractions of this interesting city, the
+curious-looking old junks, or salesmen and women stationed at various
+points on the streets, are not unworthy the notice of the photographer
+or artist. Their wares consist of old scrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps
+toothless, hammers without handles, nails of every size, files, beds
+and other articles of furniture apparently dating back to scriptural
+ages. Such markets, where odds and ends of every imaginable kind are
+gathered into piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people, seem
+to be sanctioned by the authorities, and sometimes present a very active
+and thriving appearance. They are not unpicturesque in their odd
+combinations of color, attitude and expression.
+
+The great windmills along the canal, with their huge revolving arms, and
+the boats with their loads of merchandise; the peasant women with their
+quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses; the tall Dutch
+houses with their red and yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and
+gables, the beautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten, the vast
+docks, with forests of masts, and countless ships from all parts of the
+world, and products of every country, the wonderful dikes, all form a
+succession of views of charming variety and individual beauty that are
+fascinating to the newcomer.
+
+Many short trips may be taken from here either by boat or train, and he
+who would fill his portfolio with quaint and lovely pictures, will find
+his enthusiasm aroused, no matter in which direction he may venture, or
+whether his expedition be on land or water. Interesting localities are
+always within easy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation and
+accommodation render all points accessible to the traveller whose purse
+is of the most slender dimensions.
+
+Take with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort. Proceeding to the
+Central Railroad Station, we purchase tickets which entitle us to the
+short ride in the usual compartment car. And here one may note the
+difference between railroad travel throughout England and on the
+Continent, and the American system. Instead of having one car into which
+passengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and poor, merchants and
+emigrants crowd as in free America, European trains are divided into
+three sections, viz: first, second and third class. Although the more
+general experience is that the second class compartments are quite as
+comfortable, clean and attractive as the first class compartments, the
+price of the latter is nearly double that of the former, and the fare of
+the second class nearly double that of the third. In many sections of
+England, Scotland and Germany, the third class accommodations are by no
+means unpleasant: but do not take third class tickets when travelling in
+Ireland, for should you do so, it is more than probable that just as you
+are waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic and beautiful
+scenery around you, Paddy with his wife and progeny, several pigs, and
+whatever other small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently
+dragged along, will be planted by your side, or roam about you in such
+unpleasant proximity as to change all your romantic visions into the
+most unromantic prose.
+
+Here we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem, famous in past years for
+its tulips, and now noted for its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well
+as for the curious old houses of brick and stone which are the delight
+of all the visitors to Holland. These lofty steeples and rows of ancient
+and picturesque houses have looked down upon many generations, and
+witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance that have been registered on
+the pages of history; for like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege
+during the war for independence, and stories of the heroism of both men
+and women have come down through the long centuries to tell us of
+experiences of which these ancient structures, stately and silent, give
+no sign. So well cared for are the old buildings, that one can readily
+imagine that they will appear as they do to-day for many centuries to
+come.
+
+How we enjoy this historic old place! The very air we breathe seems
+laden with odors of the past. The flower-beds are wonderfully
+attractive, with their gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole fields
+of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant blooming plants in
+every shade of color are to be seen here, and this town supplies many of
+the largest gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne River winds
+through the town, which possesses the characteristic cleanliness of the
+other cities of Holland.
+
+While driving along the bank of the canal here, our attention is
+attracted by the sound of loud, shrill cries which seem to come from the
+water. "What!" I say, "do the lurking spirits of the slain thus make
+themselves known to the living? Are there still lingering 'pale gliding
+ghosts, with fingers dropping gore'?" Whatever it may be, dead or
+living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and alighting, hasten to
+the edge of the canal. Looking into the dark muddy water, I see a lad of
+about twelve years, just able to keep his head above the stream, and
+screaming lustily for help. A young man reaches the spot at the same
+moment, and plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the boy
+who is too much frightened and exhausted to give any account of himself.
+
+The "Groote" market is in the middle of the town, and here is to be seen
+one of the finest old buildings in this part of the country. This is the
+ancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and stone, and quaint and
+picturesque enough to charm the soul of an artist with an irresistible
+desire to carry it home upon his canvas.
+
+In the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk, an imposing and lofty
+structure, dating back to the end of the fifteenth century, with its
+tower of two hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty to the
+edifice. The interior will more than repay one for the time spent in
+examining it. The old walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time
+and cover the scars, many of which, history tells us, are the results of
+the Spanish siege. Here are odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive
+benches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling alone would convince one
+of the antiquity of this relic of the middle ages. The organ,
+constructed in 1735, was for many years looked upon as the most powerful
+in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in
+existence. It contains four keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five
+thousand pipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in diameter, and
+thirty two feet in length. We endeavor to persuade the rector to allow
+us to play upon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond flattery,
+coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to the rigid rules, which decree
+that recitals shall be held only on certain regular days. How we long to
+hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which has uplifted the soul of
+man, and bidden him look to God in his times of tribulation, or fill
+this lofty dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving in days of
+peace and prosperity. I think of the stories these old walls could tell
+of the cruelties of the Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep
+for paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one could write
+interminably of these old towns with their quaint and glowing pictures.
+At every turn a new and attractive scene presents itself, and we
+reluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied, and proceed to
+Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable resort on the coast of the Noord Zee.
+At the railway stations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne water
+in small glass bottles which is so popular throughout Holland, and which
+is sold much as peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The
+quality is excellent, and the price is so moderate that the use of this
+perfume is really carried to excess by tourists, who find that it not
+only refreshes one after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the
+face from dust and cinders.
+
+We alight at a small unpretentious station, the terminus of this
+railroad, and walk a short distance to the beach. The pure salt air
+seems like a delightful tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping
+gradually to the water which is very deep. With the white sand for a
+carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting our eyes upon the lovely scene
+which at every turn presents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail
+boats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is enhanced by the groups
+of sailors waiting for the tide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged
+faces and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to the artist.
+
+[Illustration: "Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian." (_See
+page 140._)]
+
+The season seems to be either early or late, for the people along the
+shore are scant in number. Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large
+comfortable seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the hotels and
+at the water's edge, and at a trifling cost, offer rest to the weary
+pedestrian, and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the
+embarrassing gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering
+fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with basket suspended from the
+shoulder, pausing before the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with
+importunities to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various other
+dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments,
+who charm us with their delightful melodies. Their music is superior to
+that which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia. In truth, in
+Holland and Germany, one rarely hears anything but good music from these
+bands of itinerant players, and operatic selections of the higher class
+are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries.
+
+A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment, and the quick
+witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune
+telling. We are told that they are always to be found here during the
+summer season, and are quite popular among the young and the credulous,
+who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future, and
+the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued
+southerners. Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed all the
+colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect: and now I discover in
+one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist, with a well covered
+canvas, upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy
+girl, while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background. I enter
+into conversation with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam, and
+is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country. She says: "If
+one will but open his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every
+corner of the province." And it is true. Nature has indeed been lavish
+in her gifts to Holland. Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in
+number, and indescribably attractive.
+
+The citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and hospitable. As an instance
+of their cordiality I mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor by
+a townsman Mr. L----, who says we must not return home without a glimpse
+of the social life of the city. The banquet is held at the largest and
+most popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier), and besides our host
+and his family, a few intimate friends and some young people are
+present. At the appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and handsome
+building, and are conducted to a beautiful apartment with most
+attractive surroundings. The first floor of this hall is elegantly
+furnished, and lit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other
+tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a cordial welcome from
+our host, we are led to the banqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the
+light and beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic effect.
+Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers, plants and fruits are
+picturesquely arranged, and even the electric lights exhibit various
+glowing designs. The feast is prepared under the direction of an
+experienced chef, and here we speedily become aware that the city of
+Amsterdam is not one whit behind the great centres of the world in this
+line of achievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and its people have
+been responded to, the hospitalities are concluded with one to "America
+and its beautiful women," and we take our departure after three hours
+most delightfully spent in social intercourse with our friends. Upon
+this occasion four languages, French, Dutch, German and English are
+fluently spoken.
+
+
+
+
+Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken.
+
+
+
+
+_Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken._
+
+  A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The
+  Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein
+  Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch
+  Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull Should
+  Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal Boat--Honesty and
+  Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious People--Farming and
+  Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for an Artist--Dead Cities of
+  Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the Age--City Lamps--Houses and
+  People--The Island of Marken--An Isolated Wonderland--First
+  Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family Doctor--Absence of the Men--The
+  Fishing--Healthy and Industrious population--The Women of
+  Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be Taken--A Valuable
+  Experience--Photographs.
+
+
+A beautiful trip is that to Broek. We take the small steamer that lies
+in the river a short distance from our hotel, the Amstel, and after a
+sail of three-quarters of an hour, are landed at an insignificant
+station on the opposite shore. Here a little car with bare wooden seats
+running lengthwise, and a queer looking engine waits for passengers from
+the boat. And now we ride through a picturesque farming country, passing
+numerous small stations. This road terminates at Edam, but we do not go
+that far. Our fellow-passengers are most interesting. Many of the women
+wear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroidered caps which are so
+quaint and becoming, and all wear the customary wooden shoes.
+
+The men have rugged brown faces, and sinewy arms: some of them wear the
+heavy wooden shoes, others slippers, while a number are barefooted. How
+they all stare at us, and it is just as impossible for us to withdraw
+our eyes from them. We are novel sights to each other. I wonder what
+they think of our appearance. Their faces are impassive, but ours must
+surely express wonder, admiration and a strong desire on the part of one
+at least, to capture these studies in color and figure that surround us
+on every side.
+
+The children, with their rosy cheeks and round healthy forms, seem merry
+and happy, although none of them are sociable or talkative with us. They
+look at us in amazement. This is a delightful ride over a smooth velvety
+road, with rich pasture land on either side. Now we pass great dikes
+which hold back the waters from these fertile fields; and now short
+canals with their little boats, on which perhaps the Dutch vrow in her
+snowy cap and gold head-dress is seated beside her husband who smokes
+his pipe with a meditative air. The flat landscape is varied by
+innumerable herds of cattle, principally of Holstein breed, with the
+great white bands encircling the bodies, which reminds me of the story
+of the Yankee who used this band for a foundation upon which to paint
+his sign: "The finest milk and cream in the world within. Price two
+cents per quart."
+
+[Illustration: "The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle." (_See
+page 153._)]
+
+Hundreds of windmills may be seen with their long wings gracefully
+moving at the touch of a gentle breeze, in perfect harmony with the
+surrounding landscape. These mills have been used for many centuries in
+Holland, which is their mother country, and serve for draining the land,
+or for manufacturing purposes. They are placed upon a substantial
+foundation of brick or stone, and their enormous sails describe a circle
+of over a hundred feet in diameter: some run saws that cut through logs
+of great thickness, while others are huge grain mills. The smaller
+windmills are made of wood like those seen in some portions of our own
+country. The system of irrigation by means of windmills is very complete
+in Holland, thus it is that we see everywhere such beautiful fertile
+fields. Many of the farms in this locality employ three or four, and
+even more windmills for this purpose.
+
+We see many farmers, with their wives and children, working in the
+fields, and they all stop for an instant as our train passes, to shout a
+merry greeting. Here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes along the road.
+Flocks of sheep stand in the shadow of the trees, and armies of quacking
+ducks emerge from a marshy pool and spread themselves across the green.
+
+The average speed of our antediluvian express is from five to seven
+miles an hour, but it is perfectly satisfactory to these deliberate
+people; and as to ourselves, we are enjoying everything too much to wish
+it shortened by one minute. We arrive, however, at Broek, which is
+celebrated as one of the cleanest towns in the world. It contains about
+sixteen hundred inhabitants, and its narrow streets are paved with
+yellow bricks which are kept scrupulously clean. The small frame houses
+have tiled roofs, and with their flower gardens, present an orderly
+appearance. The whole atmosphere of the place is one of primitive
+simplicity. Some of the buildings are painted white, some green, and
+others of a variety of hues. They all wear an indescribable air of
+repose: and it is said that the front doors are not opened from the
+beginning to the end of the year, except on the occasion of a wedding or
+a funeral. The gardens are veritable curiosities, with their
+old-fashioned flower-beds, and box-bushes cut into various fantastic
+shapes, and all so diminutive that one feels as though he has fallen
+upon an animated edition of the Noah's Ark of his childish days.
+
+[Illustration: "Most of the houses have a canal at the back." (_See page
+157._)]
+
+Most of the houses have a canal or small stream at the back, and close
+by, upon a washing-day, the garments of the family may be seen flying in
+the breeze, displaying to the stranger the prevailing colors of the
+community, which are red, white and blue. Red predominates, however,
+since red flannel is universally worn by the middle and lower classes in
+Holland. I think of the fine bull which we saw but a short time ago,
+grazing so peacefully in the meadow, and wonder what effect this
+exposure of tantalizing color would have upon his equanimity. Should he
+be let loose among the back gardens of Broek upon a washing-day, the
+order of this immaculate village would certainly receive a shock. For
+once in the history of the place, things would be topsy-turvy, and the
+excitement would doubtless surpass anything previously seen in this
+peaceful town.
+
+What beautiful and picturesque combinations are here! The varying shades
+of green and blue, mingled with harmonious tints of yellow, produce a
+scene for the impressionist, while the effect is enhanced by the
+streams and canals which wind in and out with many a turn and twist,
+apparently for the sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this
+quaint and unique locality.
+
+Occasionally we see a canal boat of larger size drawn by a buxom Dutch
+maiden and her brother; or not infrequently it is the old man and his
+wife, and sometimes the entire family all strenuously tugging the stout
+rope which is securely fastened to the bow of the boat, while the
+dilapidated old craft, laden with merchandise or produce creaks slowly
+on its way, breaking the placid surface of the water with a soft musical
+plash.
+
+Honesty and truthfulness are unmistakably impressed upon the faces of
+all whom we meet in this section. The people hereabouts do not possess
+the shrewd business capacity of our Wall Street brokers, but they are
+mild and pleasant, with a wholesome appearance of health and good
+appetite. They are individually as clean and orderly as is their
+village. Water is as cheap here as in America, but in this place there
+seems to be an extravagance in the use of it which far exceeds that of
+the same class in our country.
+
+There are no beggars or idlers here. The people are so thrifty and
+industrious that no portion of the day is wasted. Every one seems to
+have an appointed task, even the small children, whom we see feeding the
+ducks and pigs. All are engaged in some useful occupation.
+
+Farming and cheese-making are the principal industries, although other
+branches of business, such as stock-raising, fishing, boat-making, and
+the manufacture of wooden shoes, are carried on to some extent.
+
+Our visit to the village naturally attracts some attention, as
+foreigners are rarely seen in these out of the way corners.
+
+As evening steals upon us, the scene grows indescribably lovely, for the
+sun in his descent illumines the whole landscape with vivid gleams of
+many colors. The blue stream which finds its outlet in the larger river,
+changes its sombre hue to one of dazzling gold, which throws out rich
+reflections of clouds and foliage. A fairy-like transformation seems to
+have taken place in the streets and houses; and, as we leave the village
+and the shades of night fall about us, my thoughts are with the artist,
+the photographer, the impressionist, who would feel the most exquisite
+delight in such an opportunity; for he who could do justice to this
+landscape either with brush or camera, would produce a picture worthy
+of place among the noblest works of art.
+
+We have heard so much of the "Dead cities of Holland," and especially of
+the secluded life on the island of Marken, that we determine to see for
+ourselves what this term really signifies. On our way thither, we pass
+through the old town of Monnikendam, in which we behold many strange and
+curious sights. People and buildings impress us with the idea that
+"Father Time" has forgotten this place altogether in his rounds of
+cutting down and making place for newcomers. The ancient and picturesque
+houses look as though coeval with Time himself; but in truth they are
+only mediæval; it is the people who have stood still. The present age
+has no place in their lives.
+
+The population of the town numbers about twenty-three hundred, and this
+is largely made up of children, judging from the appearance of the
+streets. The main street is wide and attractive, but the side streets
+are narrow, and all are paved with hard bricks placed edgewise. At night
+the town is lighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts: coal is generally
+used for fuel, but some of the residents use gasoline, which also serves
+for light. The houses are primitive in construction, and the people
+seem odd and inquisitive, but simple and economical in dress and
+habit. As we expect to return in a short time, we direct our course
+without delay to the Island of Marken.
+
+[Illustration: "The blue stream finds its outlet in the river." (_See
+page 159._)]
+
+A good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the Zuyder Zee, beside the banks of
+Monnikendam. The captain is a full-blooded "Markenite," born and bred on
+the island. Having made arrangements with him, we go on board and are
+soon on our way to the strange city: our hearts beat more quickly, and
+all eyes are eagerly strained toward it, when the distant island appears
+in the direction of our yacht's bow. After an hour's sail, we come to
+anchor in the harbor of this secluded wonderland. As we approach the
+town, the view from our boat seems to justify the title which has been
+given to it of "the Dead City." It lies away from everything and
+everybody, and save the deep sea which surrounds it, and which supplies
+its inhabitants with food, the island of Marken has for centuries known
+no association outside its own boundaries.
+
+No news is carried to or from this isolated region. At rare intervals an
+islander, by temperament more adventurous or enterprising than his
+fellows, makes the daring undertaking of a visit to Monnikendam, or the
+bolder flight to Amsterdam, although there are but few instances on
+record of such a reckless proceeding as the last. The place has a
+population of about thirteen hundred souls, and one may form an idea of
+the health of its inhabitants from the fact that one doctor, without an
+assistant, is the family physician for all the people on the island, and
+we are told that calls upon his professional attention are not
+sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from forming on his medicine
+chest.
+
+The Dutch language is spoken here, and it is so rare to find any one who
+understands English, that it is necessary to bring an interpreter as
+well as guide in visiting this secluded spot. The inhabitants look upon
+us as though we have dropped from the clouds, or sprung suddenly out of
+the earth. It is unfortunate that we have come here on Monday, for on
+this day the men of the island go off in their fishing boats, and do not
+return till Saturday night. Only the old and crippled are left with the
+women and children. Sunday is the one day in the week which the men may
+spend with their wives and sweethearts. Fishing is the sole means of
+subsistence here. The native inhabitants are industrious and economical,
+but of a low type of intellect, rarely if ever displaying interest in
+literary attainments. Health and good appetites seem to be their
+chief characteristics, and a more law-abiding, innocent and virtuous
+people it would be difficult to find. The women are large, muscular and
+well shaped, and appear fully able to protect and care for their
+households in the absence of the men.
+
+[Illustration: "All persuasions accomplish naught." (_See page 168._)]
+
+I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force of arms, some of
+these rare types of strength and beauty, and observing two pretty young
+girls standing in the doorway of one of the houses, both perfect
+specimens of physical health, I think this an opportunity not to be
+neglected. What a fine picture they present with their erect forms,
+their firm round arms, rosy cheeks and bright eyes! They are well
+proportioned, and looking at their smiling faces one can readily
+understand that a physician in a locality whose residents are
+represented by such glowing life as that which is now before me, may
+easily find time to be absent from his duties a year or two.
+
+Fired with enthusiasm, I approach the girls who are talking to a couple
+of old women, and am about to make a "snap shot" of the group, when
+suddenly perceiving my intention, they fly into the house like
+frightened deer, to the amusement of the old women, and the grief of the
+writer. Determined not to be outdone, for now this picture beyond all
+others is the desire of my heart, I enter the house and learn that the
+young damsels have sought refuge in the loft, and are hiding, ostrich
+like, with their heads buried in a mass of clothing. All my persuasions,
+aided by those of the older women, accomplish nought, even the liberal
+offer of silver guilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate maids,
+and I am obliged to relinquish my desire. However, I have made a
+valuable discovery, and that is that it is better under some
+circumstances not to ask for the privilege, but to resort to strategy. I
+request one or more of our party to engage the proposed subject in
+conversation, while I retire to a suitable distance with my camera,
+focus the group, then fire away. This plan succeeds admirably, and my
+collection increases steadily and satisfactorily.
+
+[Illustration: "One old woman is fascinated with the camera." (_See page
+171._)]
+
+However, upon better acquaintance with the townspeople and the repeated
+assurances of our skipper, who speaks some English, that our purpose is
+an innocent one, we are allowed to photograph the whole town freely, and
+all its valuable possessions. Occasionally a guilder slipped quietly
+into the hand of one of the older women opens a new vein of good
+fortune, for they insist that "the gentleman shall be allowed to take
+the picture;" whether it be an old-fashioned interior with its quaint
+belongings, or a pretty maid too shy to hold her head up properly. One
+old woman is so fascinated with the camera that she asks me to take
+picture after picture of her homely wrinkled countenance. At first I do
+so to her extreme delight, but finally I only pretend to take her
+picture, and the last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles are all
+wasted upon an unimpressionable plate.
+
+
+
+
+The Ancient Town of Monnikendam.
+
+[Illustration: "We walk along the narrow streets." (_See page 177._)]
+
+
+
+
+_The Ancient Town of Monnikendam._
+
+  Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient
+  Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The
+  Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone
+  Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient
+  Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult
+  Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the
+  Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the Shops--Pantomime--A
+  Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No Candles--We Attract a
+  Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A
+  Stranger to the Rescue.
+
+
+We walk along the narrow streets, some of which are paved with little
+footways, and now and then visit one of the whitewashed frame houses
+with their red tiled roofs. These houses are built after one pattern,
+and resemble each other so closely in their crude architecture, that a
+stranger might easily make a mistake, and enter the wrong door, without
+having previously taken anything stronger than a glass of water. The
+interior consists of four small rooms, which are kept scrupulously clean
+and orderly. One of these is used as a living-room, and one as
+dining-room and kitchen. The beds of the family are simply close, dark
+recesses in the wall, in which there are bunks or shelves, and on these
+the mattresses and bed clothing are placed, the occupants mounting by
+means of wooden steps to this ill-ventilated and most uninviting
+resting-place. We shudder as we glance into these dismal closets, and
+feel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping in one of them.
+
+In every house there seems to be reserved a special apartment, as a
+storage-place for the family heirlooms, and here are preserved articles
+which have been handed down from generation to generation for centuries.
+Dolls of various primitive shapes, broken and torn, with black, dusty
+clothing; clocks long since arrested in their career by age or accident;
+chairs of rude manufacture, with perhaps a broken leg or back; watches
+and jewelry of ancient design; odd furniture and pieces of china,
+besides other relics which would be useful only in an exhibition of the
+antique. All these things are sacred in the eyes of their owners, who
+would as soon think of parting with one of their children as of allowing
+one of these treasures to pass out of the family.
+
+At one of the houses I see stored among the heirlooms a clock, which
+the owner informs me has been in the family for two hundred and fifty
+years. I do not doubt the assertion, for it looks as though the dust of
+a _thousand_ years has silently but steadily accumulated upon its
+venerable face. I am about with my handkerchief to brush off some of
+this precious dust, in order to see the wood and brass in their peculiar
+coloring and design, but am quietly stopped by the hand of my host.
+
+There is a noticeable rivalry between the different families in regard
+to these treasures which are placed carefully away, as if too sacred for
+the light of day, and are shown to the visitor much as the guide
+employed in the mint allows one to touch a piece of gold or silver in
+the early process of coinage. Each family tries to outdo the others in
+its collection, and in the ancient appearance of the hoard. It is
+amusing to watch their faces, when exhibiting the wonders: they seem
+very uneasy if the stranger offers to touch one of the pieces, as though
+in terror lest it should thus lose some of those precious particles
+which enhance its value.
+
+At another house I am allowed, as a great favor, to examine one of the
+dolls, and really the anxiety shown until the owner has placed it once
+more in its place in his collection is ludicrous. The most delicate
+human being, or a piece of frail egg-shell china could not be more
+tenderly handled.
+
+These people are quite as quaint in appearance as in their customs. The
+old-time costume of the island is worn as in other parts of Holland, but
+here there is an intensity of ancientness, if I may use the expression,
+which must be seen in order to be fully appreciated. They really seem
+the remnants of a dead era, and in all their ways display a want of
+experience of the outside world, a lack of that perception which the men
+and women of to-day seem to inhale with the very atmosphere, which is
+truly astonishing. The marriage and betrothal customs are especially
+peculiar. We learn that an engaged couple cannot wed until five years
+have elapsed since the announcement of the betrothal; and should a death
+occur in either family in the meantime, it is considered such an ill
+omen that the engagement is broken off altogether: at the end of a year,
+however, a new engagement may be entered into, and after a second long
+period of waiting the wedding is consummated.
+
+[Illustration: "Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a
+homelike scene." (_See page 185._)]
+
+There are many rigid rules of etiquette connected with these
+engagements; for instance: should the young lover, upon each meeting,
+neglect to impress a kiss upon the cheek of every member of the
+family of his fiancée, the contract is annulled. One can readily believe
+almost any statement regarding these strange people who seem like a
+peculiar race stranded upon a desert island. Still from ocular
+demonstration, we feel very certain that notwithstanding these stringent
+rules, there is no lack of weddings among the young people, for there is
+an overwhelming number of children upon the island.
+
+Marken boasts of a hotel, and the owner and landlord tells us as he
+stands proudly upon its stoop, that this bold enterprise issued from his
+fertile brain, and that he is looking for a rich return for his venture.
+I respond with as much enthusiasm as I can gather upon this occasion,
+but fear he would receive but cold comfort from the true state of my
+mind on the subject. The building consists of six rooms which he
+pronounces quite modern. On the lower floor are a kitchen, ten feet by
+ten, and a dining-room, twelve by fourteen, which also serves as a
+barroom, sitting-room and smoking den, all rolled into one. Here the
+guests are supposed to reach the acme of ease and comfort. A bare wooden
+table and six chairs comprise the furniture of the room, and there is
+nothing else visible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang at the
+windows. Upstairs are three bedrooms, scantily furnished; here too the
+windows are curtained. The freshness of these rooms and their
+surroundings gives us the impression that they have never been occupied
+since the erection of the hotel a year ago, by any one of greater
+importance than the myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in lazy
+groups to the walls and ceilings. My sympathy goes out to these ignorant
+creatures who do not seem to have strength enough to get away, and seek
+their nourishment in other quarters.
+
+We find tolerably comfortable accommodations here, and view things very
+philosophically on account of the curious and interesting life by which
+we are surrounded. The men and women in their odd costumes are rare
+pictures. The clothing worn here is of a style worn hundreds of years
+ago, and there is no consciousness on the part of its wearers that there
+is anything unusual in its appearance. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis
+folly to be wise," and it is more than probable that they will continue
+to wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to come.
+
+Much of the washing is done in the little canal which flows through the
+town, and this is easily accomplished, as linen is not worn to any great
+extent, as in other places, and the coarse homespun garments are
+cleansed by a very simple process.
+
+Sheep, grazing upon many of the green pasture lands, form a homelike,
+peaceful scene which is very attractive. The air is fresh, yet balmy,
+imparting tone and vigor to the sturdy natives.
+
+At last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon the earth's surface,
+wondering if an earthquake or any other startling event will ever happen
+here to rouse it from its lethargy, and compel it to take its place in
+the march of the ages. If not, it will remain as of old, a boon to the
+artist, an infinite source from which he may draw quaint, ideal and most
+original studies of a people and an era whose counterpart has long since
+vanished from our everyday world.
+
+In our travels in the northern portion of Holland, and away from the
+larger cities, as Amsterdam and Rotterdam, which are more visited by
+tourists, we find that our letters of credit extend over an astonishing
+space of time, for a little money goes a long way among these people.
+The regions seem to be too remote for the regular tourist, and as there
+is no great influx of capital from that source, there is no inducement
+for the people to change their simple and primitive mode of living,
+hence honesty, frugality and contentment reign here, and the visitor
+may enjoy to its full extent, the beautiful country and the pure,
+innocent life of its inhabitants.
+
+The quaint and simple town of Monnikendam lies some fifteen or sixteen
+miles north of Amsterdam, and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient
+associations. Eyes, ears and brain are almost bewildered by the
+exquisite strangeness of our surroundings. Here are houses with the date
+of their birth inscribed over the doorways, and the odd designs of
+bygone centuries still clinging to their walls.
+
+These ancient dates and the rich beauty of these aged tenements impress
+us with a feeling of awe, and we walk softly as we pass the hallowed
+ground upon which so many lives have risen, passed their little day,
+then vanished to make place for the next players. Of the two hotels
+which the town supports, we choose the oldest, the Hotel de Posthoorn,
+which derives its name from the fact that at an early date the building
+was used as a post office station. In those days the postman carried a
+horn, which he blew when approaching a station, as a notice to the
+townfolk to have their mail ready for collection, that he might not be
+detained, as his route was long and wearisome.
+
+[Illustration: "Hotel de Posthoorn." (_See page 186._)]
+
+We are conducted to the second floor of the hotel by a steep and narrow
+stairway, which requires much ingenuity in the ascent, as the steps are
+constructed at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult to balance
+one's self upon them. We reach the top as gracefully as possible under
+the circumstances, and find two pleasant communicating rooms overlooking
+the main street. Rooms, beds and all our surroundings are wonderfully
+clean, and filled with an atmosphere of the past, which is very
+charming. The rates charged here are seven dollars a week for each
+person, and this includes meals and attendance: the latter simply a
+pleasant fiction, with no meaning whatever.
+
+The sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen of good quality, but
+emitting such an odor of antiquity, that there is no doubt whatever in
+our minds that they are heirlooms of many generations, and we wish that
+this genuine, ancient and unpleasant smell could be scattered abroad, or
+adulterated in some way, even to the extent of a pair of modern sheets,
+for concentrated age is more attractive in sights than in odors.
+
+Our hotel bears the date 1697 upon a fancifully carved tablet above the
+middle window, but the Stadhuis Tower is still older, dating back to
+1592. The proprietor, his wife and daughter are pleasant, hospitable
+people, who make our stay with them, both comfortable and enjoyable.
+Before supper we stroll about the town, which consists of a main or
+central avenue, with small narrow streets diverging from it. As we walk
+along, a little crowd, composed chiefly of children, follows us closely.
+These young people stare at us, and laugh as though we are a freshly
+imported menagerie. On our return, we sit in front of the hotel where
+some chairs and small tables are placed for the convenience of those who
+wish to rest and sip their glass of beer or genuine Holland gin in the
+open. The favorite beverages in Holland are beer, porter and gin, the
+latter of an excellent quality, and genuinely "old."
+
+We are soon surrounded by a group of children, who watch our motions and
+by words and gestures freely express their wonder and amusement at the
+odd-looking stranger people. They seem greatly surprised that we do not
+understand their language: not even such simple phrases as "Goeden
+avond," (Good-evening), or "Ja," (Yes), and "Nee," (No). When I make
+them understand that in English yes and no are the same as their ja and
+nee, they laugh immoderately, and repeat in their own broad accents,
+yes and no, as if greatly amused.
+
+After supper, which consists of cold fish, coffee, cheese, boiled
+potatoes and tea with a private nip of the real ancient Holland gin, we
+walk out again without a guide, to do some shopping. We have a funny
+experience, as we are compelled to resort to pantomime in making the
+various purchases. Entering a "general" store in search of candles, we
+at first ask for them in English: the good-natured shopwoman smiles and
+shakes her head. I repeat the word "candles," at the same time going
+through the motion of striking a match on the counter, and holding it up
+to the end of my forefinger. This strange proceeding attracts the
+attention of a young man and woman, who draw near the counter, followed
+by several other members of the family, but I cannot make them
+comprehend. We then try the French language, but this also proves a
+failure, so we are obliged to depart without our candles, although I am
+confident they have them somewhere in the store.
+
+Scene after scene of this kind is gone through with in the different
+shops, and now our curious actions have attracted a large crowd of
+people who follow close at our heels, wondering what we will do next,
+and thinking, no doubt, that we are a very good kind of free show. Such
+strange beings rarely visit their isolated town, and they are certainly
+enjoying their opportunity to its full extent. When we stop to look into
+a shop-window, they stop too, and follow our example like very shadows.
+The expression of wonder and merriment depicted on the countenances of
+both young and old is a fine study for an artist.
+
+As we saunter leisurely along, we espy a clothing store, which we enter,
+and find half-a-dozen men lounging about with long clay pipes in their
+mouths, and their hands in the pockets of their baggy trousers. Their
+faces wear a peaceful, contented expression, which changes to a look of
+surprise as we approach them, and they scan our attire, as something
+wholly different from anything to which they are accustomed. The gaping
+throng outside besieges the doorway. As the men still gaze curiously at
+us, I draw near the one who appears to be the proprietor of the
+establishment, and in pantomime, aided by English, interspersed with a
+little French, ask for a Marken suit of clothes. The man laughs and
+looks perplexed; his companions also shake their heads in token that
+they do not understand. With serious countenances and widely-opened
+eyes, they follow the motions of my lips and hands. Uttering slowly
+the words: "Marken suit," I point to my own trousers, coat and vest.
+Their eyes follow my hands, first to my trousers, then to my coat and
+vest. It is a difficult position; but what a treat to watch their
+puzzled countenances, now smiling, now with a look of actual pain in
+their efforts to understand.
+
+[Illustration: "De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam." (_See page 190._)]
+
+At last my perseverance and their attention are rewarded, and the
+storekeeper takes from a shelf a dusty bundle, and carefully unfolds it.
+Within the bundle is a Marken suit: yes, the very kind I wish to
+possess, an entire woman's dress. I am anxious to purchase it at any
+reasonable figure. The garment is passed to us for inspection. We nod in
+indication that it is just what we desire. Now for the tug of war; the
+price. "Combien? Combien?" Finally thirty guilders is named as the price
+set upon the dress. We motion, "Too high," and I point to the ceiling.
+The six weary men all look up in the direction of my finger: they smile,
+and think it is a good joke, and look at me as though saying: "What
+next?" They laugh heartily at my vain endeavors. Alas! How can I make
+them understand? "Fifteen guilders," I say. The proprietor seems to
+understand. "Nee. Nee. Ik kan het niet doen." (No. No. I cannot do it.)
+
+After long deliberation, still holding the cherished suit in his hands,
+he turns to his companions, and seems to ask their opinion. Several
+shake their heads and utter: "Nee. Nee," others say: "Ja. Ja." One
+suggests twenty-five guilders as the price; another twenty guilders. The
+bargaining goes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion, when to
+our relief a gentleman enters the shop who understands the language of
+these people. He has learned from the outsiders that some Americans are
+in the store trying to buy a suit of clothes. Through the kindness of
+this stranger, matters are speedily adjusted, and the sale effected, as
+he speaks both Dutch and English fluently. We purchase the complete suit
+for fifteen guilders, or about six dollars in the currency of the United
+States.
+
+These suits are rarely made for sale, but only when needed for immediate
+use. The natives of the island make them for personal wear, or for each
+other. Every man and woman generally owns two suits: one to wear every
+day, and one for Sundays.
+
+As we move toward the door to take our departure, after spending
+three-quarters of an hour over this transaction, we perceive that the
+throng around the door has increased in numbers. What an assemblage!
+And we are the curiosities. I count them, and find there are thirty men,
+women and children, all full of excitement at the presence of strangers
+in Monnikendam. One young girl is so shy and timid, that as we advance
+toward her on our way out, she starts and runs hurriedly away, and gazes
+at us from a distance of some twenty feet, as though we are dangerous
+animals.
+
+We make several other purchases; partly because we desire the articles,
+but chiefly on account of our enjoyment of this novel mode of shopping.
+
+[Illustration: "There is a young man whose walk is all his own." (_See
+page 211._)]
+
+
+
+
+Old Customs and Quaint Pictures.
+
+[Illustration: "The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean."
+(_See page 211._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Old Customs and Quaint Pictures._
+
+  Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Goeden Morgan"--The Zuyder Zee--By
+  Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women and
+  Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and
+  Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the
+  People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug
+  Stores--"Horretje"--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave their
+  Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught Girl.
+
+
+In Holland, segars and tobacco of very good quality are sold at low
+prices: it is not uncommon to buy two segars for one cent (United States
+currency) and should you be detected smoking an article costing more
+than a penny, you are immediately stamped as a wealthy and extravagant
+personage. This reputation is easily acquired in a town of such thrifty
+habits as Monnikendam, and here my fondness for a good smoke lays me
+open to both charges.
+
+A row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day, if you do your own
+rowing; with a man to row, the charge is forty cents. We find it
+convenient to hire a man, who also serves as guide and interpreter, and
+who rows us to many lovely nooks and out-of-the-way spots, which we
+would otherwise miss seeing.
+
+The inhabitants of the town are kind and hospitable, and we are charmed
+with their good, honest countenances. We are always greeted with a
+pleasant "Goeden morgen," or "Goeden avond," or it may be: "Hoe staat
+het leven?" (How are you?), when we pass them on the street.
+
+The country about here is principally farm land, with rich and abundant
+pasturage. A short distance from us is the placid Zuyder Zee, with its
+shining waters stretching eastward for miles. From its picturesque banks
+may be seen boats of every size and kind, from the tiniest row boat to
+craft of many tons' burden, and it is interesting to observe from this
+point the busy life upon the water, as produce, farm implements and
+merchandise are carried to and fro.
+
+[Illustration: "The whole place is a succession of quaint and
+picturesque houses." (_See page 216._)]
+
+As I sit writing in my room, by the light of a homemade candle, I now
+and then pause in my occupation to look around with an ever increasing
+wonder, at the dark old furniture over which the light casts a ghostly
+gleam. The spirit of the past seems lurking in the corners, with their
+long forgotten history, and around yonder ancient cupboard and brass
+trimmed chest of drawers. I can almost feel upon my shoulder the
+touch of the hand which has carried this quaint old candlestick in those
+olden days, and in imagination, hear the rustle of her gown as she
+stands behind me waiting for her own. It is ten o'clock, and I walk to
+the window and draw aside the curtain, curious to see the life that is
+abroad in the town at this hour. To my astonishment there are no signs
+of life of any kind. The town lies in total darkness. There is not a
+glimmer of light anywhere, save the dim glow from a lantern dangling
+carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who moves slowly and quietly
+along the sidewalk. There is no other evidence of any living thing. Even
+the frogs and crickets, which enliven a night scene at home, are not
+heard here. Dead silence prevails, while
+
+  "Night, sable goddess, from her ebon throne,
+   In rayless majesty now stretches forth
+   Her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world."
+
+Even the stars are slumbering, or their sparkle has been engulfed by
+this all-devouring darkness. The light of my candle seems out of harmony
+with the peaceful repose around me: with a half-guilty feeling I
+extinguish it, and wrapping myself in sheets of Holland linen, am soon
+slumbering with the rest of the world.
+
+In the morning, when seated at the breakfast table, my first question to
+our host is as to the reason for such all-pervading darkness, and the
+absence of the townspeople from the streets at night. He tells me that
+it is so rare for any one to be abroad after nine o'clock in the
+evening, that the street lamps, of which there are but few, are never
+lighted. At ten o'clock every one is supposed to be at home and in bed.
+
+The women and girls of this and the neighboring towns are thrifty and
+industrious. When resting after their daily labors, whether at noon or
+in the evening, they will invariably take from their deep side-pockets a
+ball of thread or yarn, and with the short knitting needle, or the long
+ones of steel, continue their work on an unfinished stocking, cap or
+other article of wearing apparel.
+
+The prevailing foot-covering for men, women and children is a heavy
+woolen stocking; this fits the foot snugly, and protects it from the
+hardness of the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called. These shoes
+are carved from a single block of wood: when they are worn and shabby
+they are painted black, and a strap is placed across the instep. They
+are of all sizes, but only one style or pattern. In the larger cities,
+however, such as Rotterdam, one can obtain from the manufacturers a
+painted wooden shoe, with buttons and stitches carved upon it as
+ornaments. But this variation is found only in men's shoes. In Holland
+the ordinary American slipper is frequently worn by both men and women.
+
+The clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an unpleasant sound,
+especially when several persons are walking together, but the ear soon
+becomes accustomed to it, as to all other odd noises. There is a young
+man in this place, who walks with a peculiar shuffle, all his own. He is
+so strange looking altogether that I snap my camera on him one day as he
+innocently passes by me. The peculiar sound of his walk has taught me to
+know that he is coming long before his figure is visible. I sometimes
+feel like telling him in the words of Byron, that
+
+            "He has no singing education,
+  An ignorant, noteless, timeless, tuneless fellow."
+
+The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean, as the women of
+each household scrub not only their sidewalks, but half-way across the
+street in front of their dwellings. One may thus imagine what a charming
+and inviting place this is for the pedestrian.
+
+In this peaceful town where the golden rule is not simply a precept to
+frame and hang upon the wall, it is not necessary to employ officials
+with such high sounding but meaningless titles as "Street Commissioner,"
+"Director of the Highways," etc., etc. No, here each individual
+possesses sufficient honor and self-respect to accomplish his own share
+of municipal work, to the benefit and comfort of the whole community.
+
+There is one very ancient custom still existing here which interests and
+entertains us greatly. This is the old fashion of employing a town
+crier, who after beating a brass disk which is suspended by a cord from
+his shoulder, calls out in a loud, clear voice, the news of the day,
+events in foreign lands, transfers of property, sales and auctions which
+have already taken place or are to occur in the near future, lost and
+found articles and the like. For instance: he walks a distance of a
+block or two, then stops in the middle of the street, beats the brass
+disk vigorously with a small striker, and casting his head heavenward,
+utters the phrases which have been prepared and given to him in
+stereotyped tones. Thus the town receives its news, and the crier keeps
+those who never stir from their homes as well as the business men of the
+city informed of the most prominent events of their own and other
+countries. What better method could be employed in the absence of
+newspapers? The community is kept in touch with the outside world and
+with its own members by means of this odd and ancient custom.
+
+[Illustration: "A street auction." (_See page 220._)]
+
+I have the pleasure of a personal association with the crier. Our party
+is so much annoyed by the continual staring of the people, who seem
+unable to become accustomed to our appearance in the town, and who
+follow us constantly day and evening when we walk upon the streets, that
+I decide to try some means to stop it. The proprietor of the hotel, at
+my request, adds another sentence to the daily bulletin; it runs as
+follows: "The three Americans now stopping at the Posthoorn Hotel must
+not be annoyed by the good people of this town. It is not good manners
+to stare at them and follow them, and it is unpleasant to these
+strangers."
+
+The day following my request, I listen anxiously for the voice of the
+crier, and his appearance in our neighborhood. Here he comes; and the
+message is rolled forth in sonorous tones. I seek the landlord and ask
+him if the notice is to be circulated throughout the town; and he
+replies in the affirmative. In justice to the inhabitants, I must state
+that they heed the request, and hereafter go on their way without undue
+excitement or comment when we appear among them; much to our own comfort
+and enjoyment.
+
+Few horses are seen upon these streets: wagons are drawn by two, three,
+or four huge draught dogs, trained for this purpose. Men are also
+frequently harnessed to wagons, as well as women, and sometimes a woman
+and dog will appear together drawing a load of merchandise.
+
+Milk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry on their shoulders a
+strong wooden yoke: from the ends of this the milk pails are suspended
+by ropes. Vegetables and other provisions are delivered in the same
+manner. The milkmaid passes from door to door, rapping on each with the
+ancient brass knocker, and serving her customer with the milk as it is
+served with us.
+
+The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses. The
+shapes are various, and the heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a
+charming effect as they stand in rows on either side of the street. Each
+house seems to possess an individual style of its own, and many are so
+old that they lean quite out of the perpendicular.
+
+[Illustration: "At the farthest end of the street stands an old
+windmill." (_See page 223._)]
+
+While travelling in Holland one is constantly confronted with a sign in
+the form of a wooden arm stretched from a doorway, with a brass disk
+suspended from it containing the words:
+
+  Hier scheert en snyd men het haar,
+
+which signifies that here one can be shaved and have his hair cut: in
+other words, it is the sign of a barber, who in America designates his
+calling by the gayly-colored pole. The brass disks in front of these
+places are polished to a high state of brilliancy, and being suspended
+so that they swing loosely in the breeze, they cast dazzling reflections
+in all directions which cannot fail to attract the attention of the
+passer-by. Another advertisement which differs greatly from those in our
+country is that of the drug store. While with us huge glass vases and
+globes of different colors are displayed in the window of the
+apothecary, in Holland a wooden head of a man in great agony, with
+protruding tongue, indicates that here the sufferer can find relief and
+medicine for all his aches and pains. This head is conspicuously placed
+over the entrance to the drug store.
+
+Another odd custom in this strange country is that of placing a large
+screen called a "Horetje" in the front windows of private houses, or on
+the first floors. The screen is sometimes shaped like a fan, sometimes
+it is heart-shaped or oval, and is intended to protect the person
+seated at the door or window from the idle gaze of the pedestrian.
+Indeed it often hides a charming picture of maiden grace and modesty.
+
+One day as I am sitting at the door of the hotel attempting to sketch
+some of the picturesque houses in the neighborhood, with many wondering
+eyes directed toward my canvas, I notice a crowd of people beginning to
+gather a short distance off. I do not see the centre of attraction, but
+seizing my camera, which is my constant companion, together with pencils
+and brushes, which are as close friends as Robinson Crusoe and his man
+Friday, I hasten to the scene of action, feeling that probably something
+is going to happen which will add a new page to my experience. It is
+true: something interesting is about to take place; and that is a street
+auction, a common occurrence in this town. The auctioneer, perched above
+the heads of his audience upon an old wooden box, is calling out his
+sales in Dutch. The articles which he is about to dispose of to the
+highest bidders are dress goods, linen and wearing apparel. Much
+persuasion is necessary before a sale is effected, as the strong desire
+of the customers to obtain bargains is met by an equally strong
+determination on the part of the auctioneer to sell his stock at good
+prices. A funny sort of a seesaw is the result, which is the source of
+much merriment among the spectators. I join in some of these outbursts
+from pure sympathy, as most of the time I do not understand either the
+jokes or allusions. A lively business is frequently carried on at these
+auctions; but whether the purchaser really obtains more for his money
+than by the ordinary method of buying I cannot ascertain. I presume they
+think they have some advantage, or they would not flock to the sales in
+such numbers.
+
+[Illustration: "A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town." (_See
+page 224._)]
+
+An active branch of business here is the sale of curios, antique
+silverware, china, gold, jewels, and bric-a-brac; in fact ancient
+articles of every description.
+
+As we walk down the Main street, admiring the clean highway and lovely
+old houses on either side of us, we observe many pairs of wooden shoes
+lying in front of the different residences near the doorways, and upon
+inquiry learn that when one person goes to call upon another, he leaves
+his heavy wooden shoes outside the door, and enters in his stocking
+feet.
+
+At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill with its huge
+arms moving slowly and regularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which
+blows across the Zuyder Zee. As we draw nearer, we see that it is an
+ancient grist mill, and here is the owner, who invites us in to view the
+interior, and with whom we have a pleasant chat in our own colloquial
+style, adopted since our arrival in this city. Dozens of windmills can
+be seen from this point, and, as I have already said, they are used for
+many different purposes. The foundation story is the home of the family,
+and in a number of these you will find quaint, delightful pictures of
+old Dutch interiors, with their odd chairs and dressers, ancient clocks
+and brass bound chests, old-fashioned china, and tiled fireplaces.
+
+There is a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town, encircling the
+whole city. Large trees here protect Monnikendam from the heavy wind and
+rain storms which come from the Zuyder Zee, when old Neptune rises in
+one of his dreadful tantrums. We enjoy this lovely walk, but what do we
+not enjoy in this town which surely has bound us by some magic spell;
+for the longer we stay here, the more loath we are to leave its borders.
+
+One day we take a boat and direct our course along one of the canals, on
+which there is considerable traffic. Here we behold the pitiable sight
+of two young girls, harnessed like mules, and attached to a lead rope,
+pulling inch by inch, and foot by foot, a large canal-boat filled with
+merchandise.
+
+I can imagine no harder work than this, for the poor creatures are
+exposed to the intense heat of the sun, with no protection against its
+direct rays, and they have a long slow journey before them, ere the
+heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by foot shall reach its
+destination. The toil of the factory girl in America is play when
+compared with that of the draught girl in Holland.
+
+[Illustration: "Land and water." (_See page 224._)]
+
+
+
+
+A Dutch Cheese-making District.
+
+[Illustration: "A good road for the bicycle." (_See page 239._)]
+
+
+
+
+_A Dutch Cheese-making District._
+
+  A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An
+  Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow
+  Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The
+  Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip to
+  Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled Dogs--The Only
+  Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay Decorations--A United People--As
+  a Hen and Her Brood--Their Wealth is Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart
+  Men and Sturdy Women--A Higher Type--"I have enough"--Fishermen--The
+  Anchorage--A Volendam Suit.
+
+
+To-day we take the train for Edam, of world-wide fame as a cheese-making
+centre. This town, situated about five miles north of Monnikendam,
+abounds in beautiful old trees which protect it from the heat of the
+sun, and render it very attractive. All of these towns seem to possess
+individual interest, and the traveller is constantly surprised in this
+region by new and unexpected scenes: but the imprint of truth and
+honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in every town, village and
+settlement in Holland is observed as the common bond of union, and leads
+us to understand the happiness and prosperity for which this region is
+justly celebrated.
+
+It is hardly necessary to say that many cheese factories are scattered
+throughout this section of the country. At one of these factories,
+located on the bank of the canal, we see a large barge being loaded with
+five thousand of the delicious Edam cheeses, intended for foreign
+markets. We stop for rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on the
+way. This house is a fine subject for an artist. The room in which our
+meal is served is in itself a masterpiece. The floor, composed of large
+stone flags, is spotlessly clean, and the walls are covered with odd
+pieces of china, evidently associated with family history: the woodwork
+is as white as soap and sand can make it, and the windows are as clear
+as crystal. In a corner stands the old Dutch clock, with the moon, now
+nearly full, represented above its time-worn face, and on one side is
+the dark dresser, rich in ancient plates, and other quaint old-fashioned
+crockery. The table at which we sit is covered with a snowy cloth of
+homespun linen, and the blue and white dishes with the stories upon them
+which have been thus told for unknown ages almost charm us into
+forgetfulness of our luncheon itself, until a healthy cheerful country
+girl appears, and with deft movements and smiling face places before us
+the appetizing cheese, delicious bread, freshly churned butter, and new
+milk as well as buttermilk. For this but a trifling charge is made, but
+we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old Dutch interior, the sight of
+these brass-bound chests and claw-footed chairs, and the picture of the
+cheerful Holland maid are worth many times the cost of the meal.
+
+We are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty farmer whose home is
+about a mile from Monnikendam. This well-to-do personage owns a large
+dairy farm, and learning that we are interested in this subject, invites
+us to be present at sunrise to witness the process of cheese-making. An
+early hour finds us on the way, and in good time a rap on the door of
+the farmhouse brings us into the presence of a bright middle-aged Dutch
+vrow, who with a cherry "Goeden morgen" bids us enter. We are first
+ushered into the parlor, which is a room of considerable size,
+immaculately clean, with comfortable chairs and sofas placed in various
+corners, and a supply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks that
+fill our hearts with longing. In a few moments we are invited to the
+adjoining room, which we suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room, but
+to our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable, a spacious, well
+lighted apartment, about seventy feet long and fifteen feet wide. A row
+of stalls runs along one side of the room, and here stand as many of the
+genuine, full blooded Holstein cattle. They are handsome creatures,
+looking as sleek and clean as those which take the premiums at the state
+and county fairs at home. Here they stand, patiently awaiting the
+appearance of the milkmaid; not however the milkmaid, "all forlorn" of
+nursery rhyme, but in truth
+
+  The pretty maid with dress so clean,
+  With shining pail and face serene,
+  Who milks the cows with happy smile,
+  And sings her joyous songs the while.
+
+The stalls are as sweet, clean and orderly as is the parlor which we
+have just left, and snowy curtains hang above the windows over them, the
+only apparent difference between the stable and the parlor being that
+the cattle stand upon fresh, fragrant straw, instead of a clean carpet.
+From the stable we are conducted to an adjoining building, which is the
+cheese factory, and to the room in which are assembled the farmer, his
+wife and two servants. Everything is in readiness: the fresh milk is
+poured into a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor, and which
+is capable of holding about twenty gallons: a small quantity of rennet
+is put into the milk, and in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is
+passed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass. These sieves or
+curd-knives have handles by which they are held while the blades are
+drawn from side to side, cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes.
+Then the farmer's wife rolls up her sleeves, exposing to view a pair of
+round, shapely arms which would be the pride of a city belle, and dips
+both hands and arms deep in the floating mass. She presses, and kneads
+and rolls this thickening body until it assumes the consistency of
+dough: the whey is bluish in color, and as thin as water. This is
+drained off, and water is poured over the mass several times, until the
+cheese is thoroughly cleansed of all the floating particles. It is now
+ready to be placed in five pound moulds made of wood: the moulds are put
+into a powerful press which shapes the cheese, and extracts any lurking
+remnants of water. After about eight hours in the press, the cheeses are
+salted and placed on shelves to dry. Now for a month it is necessary to
+turn them every day, and after that, every other day for a month. They
+are also sponged with lukewarm water and dried in the open air, and the
+final process is a thin coat of linseed oil. It is a tedious operation;
+great care is necessary to keep the chamber in which they are shelved
+perfectly clean and dry, and of an even temperature. At last the
+articles are ready for shipment to all parts of the world. This is an
+enormous industry: in North Holland alone, we are informed that
+twenty-six million pounds of cheese are produced per annum.
+
+The portion of the process witnessed by us occupies about an hour and a
+half: these cheeses are worth from the farmer's hands fifty or sixty
+cents apiece.
+
+There is a little boy ten or twelve years of age about here who seems to
+derive great pleasure from our society, although he cannot understand
+one word of English. One day, after sitting quietly for a long time,
+while we are conversing together, he repeats impatiently in his own
+language: "I have listened and listened to your talk, and I cannot
+understand one word. I do not think you are talking sense at all."
+
+Alas, poor child! You are not the only one who has listened and
+listened, trying in vain to find a gleam of intelligence in the
+foreigner's gibberish. Ignorance of the language of a nation causes it
+to appear to one like a vast sealed volume, which he knows only by the
+pictures on the title page.
+
+I have written at length of the Island of Marken, one of the most noted
+of the "Dead cities of Holland," and now, let us take a peep at the
+sister city of Volendam, which lies four miles north of Monnikendam. As
+we do not wish to visit this place when all the men are off on their
+fishing expeditions, we choose for our excursion a clear bright Sunday,
+a day on which the men will surely be at home, and their sea horses at
+anchor in the harbor.
+
+Procuring a large carriage and a powerful horse, a difficult thing to
+obtain at short notice, we direct our driver to jog along slowly that we
+may enjoy the beauty of the surrounding country. We drive over a fine
+road, level and well ballasted; a good road for the bicycle: in fact all
+the roads of Holland, city and country, are kept in perfect condition.
+It is a charming day, and the balmy atmosphere and the refreshing breeze
+which sweeps over the Zuyder Zee have a soothing effect upon mind and
+body. This would be a great country for invalids, and those who seek
+rest and change from the demands of fashion and social life. There is no
+fashion here; only pure air and lovely peaceful beauty everywhere, with
+good wholesome food and kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the
+weary stranger. Added to this is the very moderate cost of a sojourn in
+this delightful region.
+
+Occasionally we pass a small cart or wagon drawn by dogs, the driver a
+young girl who is comfortably seated in the vehicle, now and then
+administering to the animals, by means of a short stick, reminders not
+to lag on the way. These dogs are not the ordinary house dog which is
+seen in our country; but are powerful and muscular creatures, as perhaps
+I have already said, and so cross and savage when roused, that to secure
+the safety of the persons near them they are closely muzzled. Being
+ignorant of their peculiar traits, one day while admiring a couple of
+fine draught dogs which are resting near a wagon, I approach them too
+closely; my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled as one of them springs
+viciously at me, striking me heavily on the chest, and he certainly
+would have chipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body had his
+muzzle not prevented this catastrophe. Hereafter I keep a distance of
+many feet between me and these animals, and others of their species.
+
+[Illustration: "This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the
+town." (_See page 243._)]
+
+After a lovely drive of an hour, we arrive at the old town which is as
+wonderful and interesting as its sister city. It too is built upon the
+banks of the Zuyder Zee. We stand upon the only street in the place,
+which in appearance resembles the back bone of a whale, with small brick
+houses on either side. This strange looking highway runs lengthwise
+through the town. The street is narrow: horses and dogs are never seen
+upon it, but there are hundreds of children, who gather in great throngs
+around our horse, wondering at the strange animal, and declaring him to
+be a huge dog, for many of them have never seen a horse before. Our
+appearance is also a great event to them, and the visit creates as much
+excitement on one side as the other. It is a "red letter day" for both
+the townspeople and ourselves.
+
+The houses are roofed with red tiles, which exhibit many different
+shapes and styles, and we perceive numerous flags floating from the
+windows, and decorations of gay bunting. Upon asking the reason of this
+festive appearance in the isolated and usually quiet city, we are
+informed that they are in honor of a wedding which is to take place
+within a few days. A wedding in this town is an occasion of great
+rejoicing, and every household enters into the spirit of the
+entertainment with enthusiasm, as the whole community resembles one
+large family, and from the least to the greatest, they are all well
+known to each other. The affairs of one are the affairs of all, hence a
+single marriage becomes the festive occasion of the entire population.
+This is not strange when one recollects that the people have no other
+means of entertainment, such as theatres, concert halls or libraries,
+whist or euchre parties. They have nothing save the individual
+happenings in the domestic lives of the different families.
+
+A woman whose children are sitting quietly upon the curb stone near us,
+looks hurriedly around the door of her house, and seeing the commotion
+which our arrival excites, calls anxiously for her "kids" to come to her
+protecting arms, in mortal fear lest one of her brood should be carried
+off by these strange and unexpected visitors. As I look around, and
+behold the robust and muscular physiques of both men and women, I think
+any one would be daring indeed who would attempt to carry off a child or
+any other possession from these people in opposition to their wills.
+
+[Illustration: "The houses are roofed with red tiles." (_See page
+243._)]
+
+The women and children here are richly endowed with the blessings of
+health and strength. The whole population of thirteen hundred people
+employ but one doctor, who has time to grow rusty in his profession, so
+few are the demands upon his skill. I suggest to him on the occasion
+of a meeting, that he adopt the Chinese plan of remuneration, that is
+that the people pay him an annuity as long as they are well, and that
+when they are sick, they be entitled to his services gratis.
+
+The natives of Holland are not inclined to excesses of any kind, and
+they thus enjoy the full benefit of naturally sound constitutions, and
+are able to transmit to their children perfect, unimpaired health. As we
+stroll along this backbone of a street without name or pretensions, we
+stop at many of the doorways to talk with the residents, and soon become
+impressed with the hospitality of the people, who are arrayed in all the
+glory of their Sunday finery, and appear at the fronts of their homes
+happy in the consciousness that they as well as all their surroundings
+are in "apple pie order." We are as much interested in them as they are
+in us, and that is saying a great deal.
+
+The great, stalwart fellows with their broad shoulders and rugged faces
+are indeed true types of all that is brave and manly. A loose shirt and
+baggy trousers, with a small cloth cap is the ordinary costume of the
+men, many of whom wear wooden shoes; leather slippers are also worn. The
+women are equally brave and strong in appearance, and as large in
+proportion as the men. Their sturdy forms and healthy faces are rare
+models for the artist's brush. Their dress is of homespun linen,
+generally dyed blue, and is composed of several pieces; sometimes these
+are of various colors combined in a picturesque and effective
+arrangement. The head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becoming:
+indeed many of our fashionable belles might greatly improve their
+appearance by adopting the charming coiffure of these pretty and
+apparently unconscious Holland girls and women. These people represent a
+higher type of humanity than the inhabitants of Marken: their
+intelligence and refinement are more marked, but they have the sunny
+temperaments and contented dispositions characteristic of the
+Hollanders, and though ignorant of the customs of the outside world, and
+limited in their lives to a narrow sphere, they are a happy and
+satisfied people. They seem in that happy state of mind, so rarely
+possessed, in which they can say _I have enough_. Happiness consists not
+in possessing much, but in being content with what we possess. He who
+wants little always has enough.
+
+These men, like those in the neighboring Island of Marken, obtain their
+livelihood by fishing. They leave their homes in small boats or yachts
+every Monday morning, and do not return until late Saturday night,
+allowing them but one day in the week, Sunday, to spend in their homes.
+Close by us is the anchorage, so called from the fact that dozens of
+fishing boats anchor within its harbor. I suppose that fully a hundred
+of these yachts are lying there now, and, shifting from side to side as
+the wind stirs the waters of the Zuyder Zee, present the appearance of a
+city of masts in a hurricane.
+
+As we wander about it occurs to me that I should like to become the
+possessor of one of the odd and picturesque suits of clothing worn here;
+especially one of the better kind of the men's suits, for I know that
+this quaint and ancient dress would be interesting to a number of
+friends far away in dear America. Filled with the idea, I stop many of
+the natives, and through our good and genial friend Mr. L---- inquire if
+it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit of clothing, and
+suggest that if they have none themselves to sell, perhaps one of their
+comrades would part with a suit in exchange for my bright guilders. We
+talk to a great many men, but receive the same answer from all: that is
+that each possesses but two suits; a best or Sunday suit, and a week-day
+or fishing suit, neither of which it is possible to sell for any price
+that I may offer. I ask again if there is not some one else among the
+men who may be willing to oblige me, and learn that most of the men and
+women are in church, but that if we will wait until the service is over,
+we can talk with them, and may succeed in our quest.
+
+
+
+
+Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine.
+
+[Illustration: "The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces." (_See page
+256._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine._
+
+  Church is out--The Promenade--Every man is a Volume--An Old Suit--His
+  Sunday Clothes--"Let him have it"--An Obedient Son--The Silver
+  Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An Artist's
+  Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient City of
+  Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful
+  Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public
+  Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Brühl.
+
+
+Within a short time we perceive a large number of people slowly
+advancing in our direction. Church is over, and it is customary after
+the service for every one to promenade up and down this street. Here
+friends and relatives greet each other, exchange items of local interest
+and have their little gossips over family affairs. The sight is one long
+to be remembered. The round weather-beaten faces of the men, as they
+roll along in true sailor fashion, the merry chattering women and girls
+in their picturesque costume, the children running hither and thither,
+and the gayly decorated houses that line the long street are worthy the
+brush of an artist.
+
+Truly these people seem to practice the Golden Rule, for no one appears
+to be thinking of himself, but every one cares for the comfort and
+happiness of his family, friends or neighbors. The delicate lace caps of
+the women frame smiling faces, and the maidens in their quaint homespun
+gowns look as though they are a part of a play at one of our theatres.
+As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the foremost group, and
+having attracted their attention by our novel appearance, ask through
+our friend Mr. L----, the oft-repeated question about the suit of
+Volendam clothes, which we are anxious to carry home to show our friends
+in America. In an instant they all shake their heads in the negative,
+looking very serious at the idea of such a proposition. Their manly and
+straightforward manner charms me. I look into the open countenances, in
+which there is much individuality, and say to myself: it is as true here
+as in the great cities of the world that _Every man is a volume if you
+know how to read him._ There is a story in the heart of each one of
+these sturdy fishermen, whether it has seen the light of day or not, and
+many a noble deed and heroic action that in another town would receive a
+medal of honor, or at least the applause of the public, passes here as a
+common incident of everyday life. These people do not live for show:
+the only medals which they wear, and which they transmit to their
+children are the records of pure, honest lives which are proudly handed
+down from one generation to another.
+
+[Illustration: "As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the
+foremost group." (_See page 256._)]
+
+Meanwhile I stand before them watching the varying expressions and
+wondering if there is any prospect of obtaining my desire. At last one
+man says hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home that he no longer
+wears, and if we will accompany him to his house, a few doors away, he
+will show it to us. We turn and follow him, and a score or more of the
+people follow us. What must an old suit look like in this thrifty
+community where the men and women never discard anything until it is
+utterly hopeless as regards service?
+
+A suit which one of these is willing to dispose of must indeed be a
+peculiar object. I wonder if it has that "ancient and fish-like smell,"
+described by Shakespeare. The fates forbid! Perhaps it is a relic of a
+beloved father or grandfather, handed down as a family heirloom. We
+enter the house, still surrounded by curious spectators, and our
+obliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-wrapped bundle, which
+upon being opened discloses a worn and aged suit: unfortunately its age
+does not add to its beauty or value as in the cases of old masterpieces
+in art, as a painting by Murillo or Rembrandt. The clothes are old,
+dirty, and faded, and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman, but
+they do not fail to serve their purpose, for while this young athlete
+holds them out, with an expression of pride and pleasure, a sudden
+thought fills me with hope. The suit which this young man wears is of
+the highest type of the Volendam fashion, and is quite new. The flannel
+blouse with its gay undervest showing at the chest, and the baggy brown
+velveteen trousers form an ideal specimen of the costume of these
+people. I must have this suit. No other will answer my purpose. Without
+preliminaries, I boldly propose to him to sell me the suit he wears, and
+put on the old one until he can procure another. His countenance falls,
+and with a look of positive fear, he draws back, shaking his head and
+repeating: "Nee. Nee. Nee."
+
+Then he moves farther away, as though in terror lest I then and there
+strip him of his garments. He cannot sell the suit, he says, especially
+as the wedding festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon to take
+place. In a corner of the room, quietly smoking a clay pipe, sits the
+old father, watching without a word the little drama taking place
+before him. As the boy reiterates his refusal, the man talks to him in
+expostulatory tones, and as we learn, says: "The gentleman from America
+is a good man. Let him have the suit: you shall have another." At this
+advice the son, though looking rather sulky, yields, and withdrawing to
+the adjoining room, exchanges the suit he wears for the old one, and
+returns with the desire of my heart rolled up and wrapped in a clean
+paper. The evidence of good will on the part of the parent, and the
+obedience of the son charm me even more than the possession of the
+coveted garments. The boy is a noble lad. As we are about leaving, I
+suddenly espy the silver coin buttons which are such an ornament to the
+dress, and which are considered a mark of distinction, when worn by old
+or young. They are rare and valuable decorations, being buttons made of
+coins, and held together by a link, as our sleeve-buttons. They are worn
+in the bands of the trousers and shirts, serving the purpose of
+suspenders.
+
+The coins are brilliantly polished and present a striking appearance.
+They are generally heirlooms, and some of them are of very ancient date.
+
+In general they are cherished as treasures beyond price: these worn by
+the boy are exceedingly rare, and are more than a hundred years old,
+having belonged to his great-grandfather. The outer and larger coins are
+three guilder pieces, the smaller ones one guilder.
+
+To ask for these is indeed the "last straw," and when the father
+requests his son to put them in the bundle with the clothing, he bursts
+into tears, and his hands tremble as he gives them to me.
+
+For this final test of obedience I thank him heartily, and bestow upon
+him a liberal reward for the sacrifice, together with much praise. As he
+looks at the guilders with which I have filled his hand, his countenance
+brightens, and the rainfall is changed into radiant sunshine. The
+neighbors look on this scene with surprise, and many of them declare
+that this is a very uncommon occurrence in Volendam, as they have never
+known any one heretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a foreigner.
+It is unnecessary to say that I also value the coins beyond price, and
+treasure them for their association, and the interesting picture which
+they never fail to bring before me.
+
+[Illustration: "Every man is a volume if you know how to read him."
+(_See page 256._)]
+
+There is but one hotel in the place, and thither we resort. It is a
+small building without pretensions, containing about ten rooms, of no
+great size, but clean and comfortable. We learn that board and
+accommodations may be had here for four guilders (one dollar) a day.
+This hotel has entertained artists from all parts of the world. The
+good-natured landlord will do everything in his power to make his guests
+comfortable. In the general sitting-room or parlor, there is abundant
+evidence that these efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful
+paintings presented to him by some of the most famous artists of our
+day. He is a loyal upholder of art and artists. His daughter, a fresh
+looking maiden, is so much pleased when I say that I too, am an artist
+and photographer, that she insists upon taking me up to the third floor
+to see the fine view from the windows which overlook the Zuyder Zee. She
+also shows me a room which was fitted up for a lady artist from New
+York. Here is an unfinished picture upon the easel, of an old Volendam
+woman, in her fancy cap and bright colored homespun costume.
+
+This secluded spot offers many attractions for both brush and camera in
+interesting studies of figures and landscape, as well as charming water
+scenes. We would gladly spend a longer time amid these delightful
+pictures, but it is impossible, so we take our departure amid a hundred
+good wishes, and as we drive away, the inhabitants who have gathered
+from all parts of the town to see the queer Americans, call after us:
+"Goeden dag," and "Tot weerziens," (Until we meet again). A dozen or
+more children run by the side of the carriage shouting and laughing for
+a considerable distance. And so we bid farewell to a hearty and
+attractive people and their quaint surroundings.
+
+Let us take a somewhat hasty glance at Cologne, the oldest city on the
+Rhine, and one of the largest towns in the Rhenish Province of Prussia.
+We cannot afford to miss this town, were it only on account of the great
+Cathedral whose lofty towers rise heavenward to a height of five hundred
+and twelve feet. How one longs to find himself within these sacred
+walls, to stand and gaze upon the wondrous arches, pillars, and dome,
+the stained glass and statues, the frescoes and carving, the work of an
+endless succession of artists and artisans. Next to St. Peter's at Rome,
+this Cathedral is the largest church in the world. It stands upon the
+old Roman camping ground, and more than six centuries have passed since
+its foundations were laid. The name of its architect is unknown, and
+even the original designs have been forgotten. Its interior is four
+hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred and forty feet broad.
+The portion appropriated to divine service covers an area of seventy
+thousand square feet. It is useless to attempt to describe this vast
+structure whose buttresses, turrets, gargoyles, canopies and tracery are
+innumerable and bewildering. The Gothic arches and countless pillars
+form a grand perspective. There are seven chapels which present a wealth
+of paintings, and relics. In the Chapel of the Three Magi is a
+marvellous casket of crystal, whose cover is set with precious stones,
+which is said to contain the skulls of Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar,
+the three Wise Men from the East who followed the star to the cradle of
+the infant Christ.
+
+[Illustration: "Goeden dag. Tot weerziens." (_See page 266._)]
+
+In the great treasury of the Cathedral are untold treasures. Here are
+silver censers, paintings set in diamonds, shrines of silver, and rare
+and priceless relics of every description, besides gold and silver
+chalices, fonts, and other church vessels, and a collection of
+magnificent vestments.
+
+Many are the vicissitudes through which this wonderful structure has
+passed, since its commencement in 1248. At times it seemed abandoned to
+ruin, then again the work was taken up and vast sums of money
+contributed, and the masterpiece of Gothic architecture was carried on
+toward completion, until once more the money was exhausted. It seems as
+though the old legend of the architect who sold his soul to the devil in
+exchange for the plan of the edifice must have some foundation, for
+tradition relates that Satan was finally outwitted by the architect, and
+in revenge vowed that the Cathedral should never be finished, and the
+architect's name be forgotten. Immense fortunes have been expended upon
+it by monarchs and others of the faithful. The great southern portal
+alone cost half a million dollars: the bells in the south tower, the
+largest of which was cast in 1874, from the metal of French guns, weighs
+twenty-five tons. The combined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are
+required to set it in motion. The next two in point of size, cast in
+1447 and 1448, weigh respectively eleven and six tons. The magnificent
+stained glass windows were contributed by famous and royal donors, such
+as the Emperor Frederick III., Archbishop Von Daun, Archbishop Von
+Hessen, King Lewis I. of Bavaria, Emperor William I., and many others. A
+number of these were executed as far back as 1508.
+
+Few structures can compete with this in beauty, grace and elegance of
+form. How solemn is the atmosphere within these ancient walls! How
+impressive the picture of this apparently boundless interior! In one of
+the great pillars is a flight of one hundred steps, which leads to a
+gallery extending across the transept, and still nearly forty steps
+higher one reaches the gallery which makes the tour of the whole
+Cathedral, and upon this one has a beautiful view of the city of
+Cologne, the Rhine and the surrounding country. Within the church there
+is a corresponding gallery, from which the visitor may observe the
+interior decorations, and from the loftiest gallery of all, there is a
+vast and delightful panorama which includes river and country as far as
+the eye can see. What can be more beautiful than this scene? Where can
+one find a grander, more solemn atmosphere than within these walls where
+the spirits and the hands of men have worked for ages? Where can he
+experience more lofty aspirations toward
+
+  "The glorious Author of the universe
+   Who reins the minds, gives the vast ocean bounds,
+   And circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds"?
+
+The city of Cologne was founded by the Ubii at the time when they were
+compelled by Agrippa to migrate from the right to the left bank of the
+Rhine, (B. C. 38). In A. D. 51, Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus, and
+mother of Nero, founded here a colony of Roman veterans which at first
+was called Colonia Agrippinensis, and afterward Colonia Claudia
+Agrippina. In 308 Constantine the Great began a stone bridge over the
+Rhine to Deutz. From the end of the fifth century Cologne belonged to
+the Franks and was long occupied by the Ripuarian kings. Charlemagne
+raised the bishopric which had been founded here in the fourth century
+to an archbishopric, the first archbishop being the imperial chaplain
+Hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church, and presented to it a
+valuable library which still exists.
+
+"The noble city has passed through many vicissitudes, and it was not
+until after 1815 under Prussian rule that it began to enjoy a degree of
+permanent prosperity. The rapid progress of its steamboat and railway
+systems, and the enterprise of the citizens, many of whom possess great
+wealth, have combined to make Cologne the centre of the Rhenish trade,
+and one of the most considerable commercial cities in Germany."
+
+The town is built with long narrow streets curving in semicircles toward
+the river. Its sidewalks have the peculiarity of frequently dwindling
+away until only a few feet in width. The great Cathedral tower may be
+seen for miles, reaching far above the surrounding buildings. Cologne is
+a city of legends and relics: old and historic buildings dating back
+many centuries are scattered in all directions, and here the visionary,
+the lover of myth and legend, can find abundant food for his
+imagination. The great and valued possessions of the city are the bones
+of the eleven thousand virgins. This is the legend: Fourteen hundred
+years ago, St. Ursula and eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage
+to Rome, and returning were all slain by the Huns. Their bones were
+gathered together and brought to Cologne, where they were buried, and
+later the church of St. Ursula, now nearly nine hundred years old, was
+built over their tomb. Within this church the bones of the virgins are
+enclosed in stone caskets, with apertures through which they may be
+seen. The skulls are covered with needlework and ornamented with pearls
+and precious stones.
+
+Among other relics, is also to be found here the alabaster vase or
+rather one of the vases, in which the Saviour turned the water into wine
+at the marriage in Cana. The vase or jar is evidently a very ancient
+article: it is much cracked, and one handle is broken off. There are
+many points of interest in this old city, for here are museums, gardens,
+galleries and churches, and always the picturesque river with its
+countless views and pleasure trips.
+
+If one is weary of these legendary stories, or even of sightseeing
+itself, let him rest with me in one of the many public gardens,
+listening to the charming music of a good orchestra.
+
+There are skilled musicians in these gardens, and their selections are
+always well rendered. No loud or idle conversation is indulged in during
+these recitals. Should any such breach of good manners occur, the
+transgressors are requested to observe the rule of the garden, and if
+the offence is repeated, they are ejected from the premises. The
+Germans, being such lovers of good music, tolerate no other in their
+gardens. There is no admission fee, but the expenses are supposed to be
+met by the sale of beer, wine, pretzels and Frankfurt sausages.
+
+Before leaving Cologne I must not forget to mention the refreshing
+perfume which has made this city famous all over the world. The
+celebrated Eau de Cologne is said to have been invented by Jean Antoine
+Marie Farina of Domodossola in the year 1709. One could almost bathe in
+the perfume here for the money it would cost to filter our muddy
+Philadelphia water. There is an enormous quantity of it manufactured,
+and almost every store seems to have it for sale.
+
+[Illustration: "Palace of Brühl." (_See page 277._)]
+
+A short distance from Cologne, or Köln as the Germans call it, is the
+almost forsaken station of Brühl. I would advise the tourist to alight
+here, and take a close view of the imperial palace known as the Palace
+of Brühl, a handsome building erected about the year 1725. As we advance
+toward the beautiful and spacious grounds, it is not difficult to
+imagine the magnificent structure looming up in the distance as the home
+of royalty. The approach to the palace is studded with marble statues,
+and the palace itself is a classic example of the French and German
+rococo style of architecture; from it radiate many lovely walks and
+bowery avenues which are adorned with fine statuary. Here too are velvet
+lawns, noble trees and glowing flower beds, and should one wish to view
+the interior of this elegant palace, he will find that some of the rooms
+are open to visitors.
+
+Our stay within is necessarily brief. Retracing our steps to the
+station, we take the train, and are carried swiftly toward the old town
+of Bonn.
+
+
+
+
+Along the Banks of the Rhine.
+
+[Illustration: "Lovely walks and bowery avenues." (_See page 277._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Along the Banks of the Rhine._
+
+  Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous
+  Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs of
+  Honor--Königswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The Castle--The
+  Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated Ruin--The Splendor of
+  the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the Summit--The Students'
+  Chorus--German Life--A German Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and
+  Lofty Mountains--Legends of the Rhine--The Waters of the
+  Rhine--Vineyards.
+
+
+This town like its sister cities is of ancient foundation, having been
+one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine. It is the seat of a
+university which attracts students from all parts of the world. It is a
+prosperous looking place with pleasant villas on the river banks, and
+ancient picturesque houses. There are lovely shaded walks in the public
+gardens, and a fine view from the Alte Zoll, but the chief interest of
+the town for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace of Beethoven.
+In a small unpretentious house the great musician was born in 1770, and
+here were composed many of those wonderful harmonies which have thrilled
+the souls of lovers of music all over the world. The room in which this
+noble genius first saw the light of day is in the top of the house, a
+garret ten feet by twelve in size, and contains no furniture whatever:
+nor is it necessary to remind those who enter it, by aught save the
+wreath of green which lies peacefully upon the floor, that the spirit
+whose earthly tabernacle dwelt here breathed forth the fire of heaven.
+
+  "Creative genius. From thy hand
+     What shapes of order, beauty rise,
+   Where waves thy potent, mystic wand,
+     To people ocean, earth and skies."
+
+In an adjoining room are stored some pieces of furniture which belonged
+to Beethoven, and the piano used by him in the composition of some of
+his most famous sonatas. Some of the ladies of our party are permitted
+to play upon this sacred instrument. Do they hope to be inspired by the
+magic spell of the master's touch still lingering among the keys? The
+dwelling has been purchased by lovers of the celebrated composer, and
+fitted up as a Beethoven Museum. Not far off stands the statue of the
+artist and the monument dedicated to him.
+
+Before leaving Bonn, we visit the famous restaurant which is the nightly
+resort of the students during the college term. The spacious rooms
+composing this café communicate with each other by a wide and lofty
+doorway. The furniture consists of bare wooden tables, a long counter,
+and dozens of shabby chairs which look as if they have seen hard
+service. The corpulent and jovial proprietor informs us that these rooms
+are filled to overflowing with both gay and serious students every night
+in the week, and that here, notwithstanding the ofttimes boisterous
+merriment, questions of grave import are often discussed, together with
+all the current topics of interest; and that speeches are made brilliant
+enough for publication in the daily papers. Here the young orator first
+tests his powers, and in all his future career, he will find no more
+critical audience than this composed of his fellow-students. Here too
+are nights given up to fun and jollity, to college songs and wild and
+reckless mirth, when there is not a serious countenance among the crowd.
+
+  "He cannot try to speak with gravity,
+   But one perceives he wags an idle tongue;
+   He cannot try to look demure, but spite
+   Of all he does he shows a laugher's cheek;
+   He cannot e'en essay to walk sedate,
+   But in his very gait one sees a jest
+   That's ready to break out in spite of all
+   His seeming."
+
+Hundreds of voices make the roof ring with tuneful harmony: choruses,
+glees and comic ballads follow each other, interspersed with jokes and
+puffs at pipes and sips of beer, for the German student is a
+
+  "Rare compound of oddity, frolic and fun,
+   To relish a joke and rejoice at a pun."
+
+Pounds of poor tobacco are smoked, and gallons of good beer consumed at
+these gatherings, and the landlord is always on the side of the boys
+when there is any trouble, and rejoices in all their collegiate honors
+and their success in every other line.
+
+Upon the shelves above the tables are long rows of individual beer mugs,
+with the owners' names or crests conspicuously painted in gay colors
+upon them. These mugs vary in capacity from a pint to two quarts, and
+the host assures me gravely that many of the students drain even the
+largest ones nine or ten times in the course of an evening. I ponder, as
+he speaks, upon the wonderful power of expansion of the human stomach
+which performs this feat.
+
+[Illustration: "Not far off stands the statue of the artist." (_See page
+284._)]
+
+As a natural consequence of this enormous appetite for beer, one sees in
+the restaurants in many of the German cities an especial table
+constructed with a deep semicircular curve in the side, which allows
+the corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage in comfortable
+proximity to the bottle. Such as these must have been in Shakespeare's
+mind, when he wrote: "He was a man of an unbounded stomach."
+
+The deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many of the students, are
+matters of great pride with them, as evidences of the number of "affairs
+of honor" in which they have been engaged. They look with scorn upon the
+fellow collegian whose countenance does not display one or more of these
+signs of bloody combat, and are always ready to seize an occasion of
+this kind for the exhibition of their bravery or their skill at arms.
+Sometimes these duels are a result of the silliest arguments, at others
+they are sought by deliberate insult given by the one who wishes to
+fight. A glance is sometimes sufficient for a sanguinary meeting.
+
+Will they ever learn that no stain can ever be washed out with blood, no
+honor redeemed by the sword, no moral bravery displayed by an encounter
+of this kind? It is falling to the level of the brute, with perhaps a
+little more skill evinced in the choice of the weapons of warfare. It
+cannot but detract from the dignity of the human being, and this is true
+to a far greater extent in the case of those who entertain themselves
+by witnessing such unnatural sports as prize fights, cock fights, and
+most degrading of all, but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized
+countries, the bull fight;--all relics of barbarism.
+
+Let us leave this unpleasant subject, however, and allow ourselves to be
+spirited away to a veritable fairy land of beauty, and quaint legendary
+associations. The little town of Königswinter nestles at the foot of the
+Seven Mountains, from which there are innumerable views of the Rhine and
+the surrounding country. A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in
+the many excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and
+visionary will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of
+rare grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen,
+cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages of
+legendary lore. The town is a thriving, modern looking place of about
+thirty-five hundred inhabitants, excluding the floating population of
+tourists who throng the hotels and scatter themselves among the private
+families.
+
+We arrive here early in the afternoon, and establish ourselves in a
+comfortable and attractive hotel. The day is clear and pleasant, and
+desiring to make good use of the hours of daylight before us, we
+determine to make the ascent of the Drachenfels. There are a number of
+different routes or paths, by which one may reach the summit of this
+mountain on foot; or, should the tourist prefer to ride, he can use the
+Mountain Railway which approaches the top in a line almost straight.
+Protected by stout shoes, carrying wraps, and armed with long and strong
+wooden staffs, we walk slowly along the mountain road, pausing at
+intervals to gaze upon the beautiful scenes which surround us in every
+direction. The great peak known as the Drachenfels or Dragon rock, in
+which from the river a vast cavern may be seen, owes its name to the
+numerous legends which are connected with it. In the cave, it is said,
+lived a terrible monster who daily demanded of the people the sacrifice
+of a young maiden, who was bound and decorated with flowers, and placed
+near the entrance to his lair. Siegfried slew the dragon and by bathing
+in his blood, became invulnerable. The maiden whose life he thus saved
+was Hildegarde, the beautiful daughter of the Lord of Drachenfels, whom
+he afterward married and bore to the castle whose crumbling and
+picturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag, fifteen hundred feet
+above the Rhine. This castle was once a mighty stronghold of the robber
+chieftains; its foundation is associated with Arnold, Archbishop of
+Cologne at the beginning of the twelfth century, who in 1149 bestowed it
+upon the Cassius Monastery at Bonn. It was held as a fief by the counts
+of the castle.
+
+Henry, Count of Drachenfels, furnished the chapter of the Cathedral of
+Cologne with the stone for its construction from a quarry which from
+this fact still bears the name of Dombruch, or cathedral quarry. In the
+Thirty Years' War the half-ruined castle was occupied by the Swedes, but
+was besieged and taken from them by Duke Ferdinand of Bavaria, Elector
+of Cologne, who completed its destruction.
+
+The cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new castle, the Drachenburg,
+built in 1883 for the Baron von Sarter. It is in the Gothic style, and
+is elaborately decorated with frescoes and stained glass. The upper part
+of the mountain is covered with trees below the cliff, the lower part
+with grapevines, while along the banks of the Rhine at its foot are
+picturesque cottages, nestling among trees and vines. The Drachenfels is
+the loftiest of the Seven Mountains, and its summit commands one of the
+finest prospects on the Rhine. In the ruins of the old castle, ingenious
+and progressive man has seen fit to ignore sentiment, and thrust a
+modern restaurant, where in spite of his shocked sensibilities, the
+weary traveller may in return for German marks, rest and refresh himself
+with sparkling wine which is famous for its fine quality and flavor,
+while the cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited brain.
+
+[Illustration: "The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon
+Rock." (_See page 291._)]
+
+One lingers long, dazzled by the splendor of this superb view. Mountains
+and valley, river and islands unite in a glorious picture which
+entrances the soul, and thrills the heart with gladness; while the pure,
+bracing mountain air, laden with the perfume of the grape, fills the
+lungs with "a perpetual feast of nectar's sweets."
+
+Many tourists surround us, and we hear a perfect babel of tongues:
+French, English, German and other languages greet our ears, assuring us
+that visitors from all parts of the world are enjoying this magnificent
+panorama with us.
+
+What a pity the camera will not encompass the wonderful scene.
+
+  "The castled crag of Drachenfels
+     Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
+   Whose breast of waters broadly swells
+     Between the banks which bear the vine;
+   And hills all riched with blossom'd trees,
+     And fields which promise corn and wine;
+   And scatter'd cities crowning these,
+     Whose fair white walls along them shine,
+   Have strew'd a scene which I should see,
+   With double joy wert thou with me."
+
+Several of the Siebengebirge are visible toward the east, the basaltic
+heights sloping toward the Rhine. Just below are Rhöndorf, Honnef,
+Rheinbreitbach, Unkel, and Erpel; on the left bank of the river are
+Remagen and the Gothic church on the Apollinarisberg, with the heights
+of the Eifel and the ruin of Olbrück Castle on a height of 1,550 feet.
+In the neighborhood are Oberwinter, the islands of Grafenwerth and
+Nonnenworth and the beautiful ruins of Rolandseck with its surrounding
+villas and gardens. To the right, one may behold Kreuzberg, Bonn and
+even the city of Cologne in the distance.
+
+It seems as though one could gaze upon this scene of grandeur and beauty
+forever. As twilight falls, the picture receives a new and entrancing
+sublimity. "The weary sun hath made a golden set," and silently the
+sparkling stars appear, one by one, while the deepening shadows blend
+the scene into a vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the soul up
+to the very threshold of heaven.
+
+We descend the mountain rather silently, unwilling to break the
+impression made by our journey, and slowly through the gloom make our
+way back to the hotel.
+
+While sitting upon the porch in the evening, surrounded by the majestic
+watch towers of the Rhine, and expatiating on the pleasures of the day,
+we suddenly hear a rich full chorus, harmoniously sung by at least one
+hundred male and female voices. The singers are invisible, and the notes
+seem to float out from one of the neighboring mountain caves. We all
+listen with delight to the sounds, which now approaching nearer,
+convince us that the singers are not the denizens of another world, but
+are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves. In the distance we can
+discern a procession of gay and jovial students with their sweethearts
+at their sides. The young men are carrying lighted torches and lanterns
+which illuminate them and the road, and are merrily singing the popular
+glees and college songs as they wend their way to the boat landing close
+by.
+
+The party is returning from a German students' picnic, and as they board
+the little steamer, which immediately leaves her moorings, the air is
+rent by cheer after cheer, and we hear the gay laughter and happy voices
+long after the boat has disappeared from our eyes down the silent
+flowing river. Such is the German student life, and such is the
+character of the German people: not averse to pleasure, sociable,
+jovial, kind and happy.
+
+We rise early this morning, and partake of a good German breakfast; and
+of what do you suppose a good German breakfast consists? Dishes of
+greasy sausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy, kale or saurkraut,
+onions and hot sauces, potatoes soaked in lard; black bread which has
+also been soaked in lard to save the expense of butter: and all this
+washed down with innumerable mugs of beer or Rhine wine, with a "thank
+heaven" when the unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes or
+olfactories? No, my dear friend; our breakfast is a most agreeable
+contrast to the picture just drawn. We are served with deliciously
+cooked steak and chops, and the connoisseur of any nationality would not
+disdain these meats or the daintily prepared chicken, coffee and fresh
+rolls. The eggs are fresh and not underdone: one can find no fault with
+the butter or the sweet new milk, and it is with a feeling of great
+satisfaction that we rise from the table at the close of the meal, and
+exclaim that we have had a breakfast "fit for a king."
+
+A small steamer with an upper deck waits at the landing to convey
+passengers and a limited amount of freight from Königswinter to Bingen.
+It is ten o'clock when we step on this attractive little boat with our
+numerous wraps and parcels. We are well laden, for the camera occupies
+one hand, and is always ready for an unexpected shot at some picturesque
+figure, group, building or landscape. And I will here say to the tourist
+who wishes to illustrate his notes, that it is best to keep camera and
+sketch book handy, for you little know what fine opportunities are
+missed while you are stopping to unstrap your needed friend. Let your
+sketching outfit hang over your shoulder, and as to the camera, have one
+which will respond to your touch within five seconds, or you will lose
+many a scene of beauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of
+friends at home. We are much amused at the bulky apparatus of a friend,
+which is always carried neatly strapped in its box, while mine hangs
+over my shoulder, ready to snap instantly to a demand upon it. The
+difference in the result of the two methods is that I have a collection
+of many valuable pictures, while our friend spends most of his time
+strapping and unstrapping his camera. The day is chilly and threatening,
+and as we leave the landing, we find ourselves in a heavy fog, much to
+my disappointment, for I have anticipated great pleasure in seeing and
+photographing the many beautiful ruins of old castles and the landscape
+along our route. However as the mist lightens now and then, I "shoot"
+away here and there with as much ardor as the circumstances will allow:
+not idly or carelessly, as the enthusiastic amateur, reckless of plates
+and results, but at unquestionably fine points, such as lofty castles
+and picturesque mountains, half fearing sometimes that in spite of my
+precautions the longed-for view will prove but a blur upon my plate. It
+is bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime pictures with such
+faulty exposures.
+
+The country around Königswinter is extremely beautiful. Upon both sides
+of the Rhine rise the lofty peaks of the wooded mountains, with in
+almost every case a ruined castle upon the summit. How noble and defiant
+is the appearance of these venerable fortresses with their eventful
+histories and wonderful legends. Here near Remagen within full view of
+the river is the church dedicated to St. Apollinaris, at one time a
+great resort for pilgrims. It is said to be beautifully decorated with
+ancient and modern works of art; the view from the church tower so
+charmed the artist who first ornamented it that he painted his portrait
+upon the tower that his eyes might forever look upon the mountains and
+valleys and follow the winding course of the glistening river. Near
+the church, at the foot of the mountain, is the celebrated Apollinaris
+fountain, whose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the world
+for their medicinal properties.
+
+[Illustration: "How noble and defiant is the appearance of these
+venerable fortresses." (_See page 300._)]
+
+At times the blue breaks through the clouds, and then the pictures are
+surpassingly lovely. The castles in their sorrowful majesty are very
+imposing: they are generally built of stone, are of fine architectural
+design, and are frequently the centre of charming old gardens, or are
+embowered in trees and shrubbery. Here they stand year after year,
+looking down upon the ever youthful river. Some of them are occupied,
+while others are desolate ruins.
+
+  "High towers, fair temples,
+   Strong walls, rich porches, princely palaces,
+   All these (oh pity), now are turned to dust,
+   And overgrown with black oblivion's rust."
+
+One can hardly realize the grandeur of this scenery. Every turn of the
+river presents a different view: it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of
+natural beauty. Now we behold the mountains with their masses of foliage
+reaching to the very summits; now the charming village amid its
+vineyards, with its odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame
+houses with plain roofs and quaint gables. While sitting silently on
+deck gazing upon the old castles and ever changing scenes which border
+this beautiful body of water, I hear solemn tones proceeding from the
+belfry of an old church, and behold a little procession of mourners
+slowly following the hearse which is bearing the remains of some loved
+relative or friend to their final resting-place;--a pathetic little
+group walking sadly along through the drenching rain from the church to
+the burying ground.
+
+One is compelled to notice here the numerous signs with huge letters
+emblazoned upon them, informing the passers-by that here are bottled
+popular waters of medicinal qualities. The tottering establishments are,
+I observe, close to the water's edge, and whether or not the Rhine
+contributes the greater part in the composition of these famous waters
+is an open question. However it may be, the waters, or mineral springs,
+of genuine virtue or otherwise, are the source of a considerable profit
+in this region. Water as a beverage is seldom used by the Germans, for
+the light Rhine wines are to be had in perfection at a trifling cost.
+
+[Illustration: "Every turn of the river presents a different view."
+(_See page 303._)]
+
+We glide along, passing island and vineyard, and castle crowned height,
+with now and then a wide curve in the river, which looks with its
+smiling face to-day much as it did centuries ago when the old
+strongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal splendor, and
+noble retinues defiled down the narrow mountain paths to the water's
+edge.
+
+  "Thou, unchanged from year to year
+   Gayly shalt play and glitter here;
+   Amid young flowers and tender grass,
+   Thine endless infancy shalt pass;
+   And, singing down thy narrow glen,
+   Shall mock the fading race of men."
+
+
+
+
+From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main.
+
+[Illustration: "Now we behold the little church surrounded by
+picturesque houses." (_See page 303._)]
+
+
+
+
+_From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main._
+
+  Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German
+  Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Rüdesheim--Niederwald--The
+  Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine
+  Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A
+  Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the Ford--A
+  Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of Bishops--The
+  City--Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which Rothschild was
+  Born--Luther.
+
+
+After leaving Königswinter, we pass vast vineyards on both sides of the
+Rhine, and as we approach Bingen we see them covering the whole
+mountain-side. Among the vines may be seen what seem like steps
+encircling the mountain to its very summit, but which in reality are
+roads or paths through the vineyard. The sturdy and prolific vines grow
+close to these walks. In this section of the country the greatest care
+is given to grape culture, hence in Bingen is to be found the finest
+wine made in the country. In this region are located great breweries and
+wine vaults extending into the mountain-sides for hundreds of feet. On
+arriving at Bingen we proceed at once to the Victoria Hotel, a quiet
+house situated at a convenient distance from both railroad station and
+steamboat landing. The charges are moderate, and the accommodations
+good.
+
+Upon entering our sleeping apartment, I observe upon the beds huge
+fluffy quilts stuffed with soft feathers, and forming a pile at least
+two feet in thickness, which covers the entire surface from bolster to
+footboard. This ominous appearance fills me with strange forebodings and
+wondering thoughts. I say to myself: "God made the country, and man made
+the town, but who on earth has manufactured these monstrous
+counterpanes, and for what purpose?" Surely not for ornament, for they
+are the most unsightly objects I have ever beheld in the line of
+needlework, and look as if intended to smother hydrophobia patients. But
+as few dogs are seen hereabout, this does not seem probable. The
+appearance of a smiling innocent-faced chambermaid interrupts my
+meditations. She informs me that these great masses of feathers are used
+to keep the body warm at night. I conclude from this that the Germans
+are a cold-blooded people, since such a slaughter of the "feathery
+tribe" is necessary to maintain their normal temperature when in a
+state of repose. As night advances, I summon up courage to crawl under
+this fluffy mountain, and in a few moments feel as if a great loaf of
+freshly-baked bread is lying upon me. The heat is intense, and makes me
+think of "Eternal torments, baths of boiling sulphur, vicissitudes of
+fires." I cast it off, and as the nights are chilly, soon find myself
+too cool. But I will not allow the enemy to return and overpower me, for
+there is much to be seen hereabout on the morrow, and I know that
+overgrown spread would absorb all the strength reserved for the
+occasion. Placing my steamer rug upon the bed, I am soon oblivious to
+all surroundings and happy in a land of pleasant dreams.
+
+[Illustration: "Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the
+mountain side." (_See page 313._)]
+
+This house is indeed delightfully located in the midst of a beautiful
+country. Bingen is a lovely town at the entrance of the romantic Nahe
+valley, looking out upon mountain, glen and river on every side, upon
+lofty castles and vine-embowered cottages. Quaint narrow streets and
+ancient buildings, whose history is buried in the distant centuries,
+tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger in this neighborhood. The
+place was known to the Romans, who erected a castle here, which was
+destroyed by the French in 1689, but which has been restored and
+extended. There is a beautiful view from the tower, and footpaths
+ascend to it both from the Nahe and the Rhine.
+
+Here are old historic taverns, whose floors are composed of large slabs
+of stone. The primitive chairs and tables are of rude workmanship, and
+devoid of paint or style, but heavy and strong enough to support the
+weary travellers who resort thither.
+
+We wander about, revelling in nature's enchanting pictures, and
+rejoicing in the mysterious atmosphere of the dense forests, which form
+the background. The smiling river, with its silver sheen beneath the
+moon, or its golden reflections of the setting sun, is ever an
+inspiration and a suggestion for some new trip or point of vantage. Yes,
+here are scenes for the artist, and pictures ready for the camera. Here
+too, on a quartz rock in the middle of the Rhine is the Mouse Tower
+which is said to owe its name to the well-known legend of the cruel
+Archbishop Hatto of Mayence.
+
+In the year 914, a protracted rain ruined the harvest in this region,
+and a terrible famine ensued among the poor people, who in their
+distress finally applied to the archbishop, as his granaries were
+overflowing with the harvests of former years. But the hard-hearted
+prelate would not listen to them. At last they wearied him so with their
+importunities, that he bade them assemble in an empty barn, promising
+to meet them on a certain day and quiet their demands.
+
+Delighted with the prospect of relief, the people gathered on the
+appointed day in such numbers that the barn was soon filled. The
+archbishop ordered his servants to fasten all the doors and windows so
+that none could escape, and then set fire to the building, declaring
+that they were as troublesome as rats, and should perish in the same
+way.
+
+The following day, when the bishop entered his dining-room, he found
+that the rats had gnawed his recently finished portrait from the frame,
+and it lay in a heap of fragments on the floor. While he stood gazing at
+it a messenger burst into the room with the news that a great army of
+fierce looking rats were coming toward the castle. Without a moment's
+delay the archbishop flung himself on a horse and rode rapidly away
+followed by thousands of rats all animated by the revengeful spirits of
+the starving population he had burned. He had scarcely dismounted and
+entered a small boat on the Rhine, when the rats fell upon his horse and
+devoured it. Rowing to his tower in the middle of the Rhine, he locked
+himself in, thinking he had escaped his voracious foes; but the rats
+boldly swam across the Bingerloch, and gnawed thousands of holes in the
+tower, through which they rushed to their victim. Southey in his ballad,
+thus describes their entrance into the tower:
+
+  "And in at the windows, and in at the door,
+   And through the walls, helter-skelter they pour,
+   And down from the ceiling, and up from the floor,
+   From the right and the left, from behind and before,
+   From within and without, from above and below,
+   And all at once to the bishop they go.
+
+  "They have whetted their teeth against the stones,
+   And now they pick the bishop's bones;
+   They knawed the flesh from every limb,
+   For they were sent to do judgment on him."
+
+This is the old legend; but now comes the searcher after truth with the
+information that the tower was in reality erected in the middle ages as
+a watch tower, and the name is derived from the old German "musen," to
+spy. These ruins were again converted into a station for signalling
+steamers, which in descending the Rhine are required to slacken speed
+here when other vessels are coming up the river.
+
+Taking one of the small steamboats which run from Bingen to the opposite
+bank, we land at the little town of Rüdesheim which lies at the base of
+the mountain. This old town is one of the most famous on the river, not
+only for its wines but for the legend of the beautiful Gisela, who was
+commanded by her father to become a nun in fulfillment of his vow made
+in Palestine during the crusade against the Saracens. The maiden had a
+lover, and finding that no entreaties could save her from her fate,
+Gisela leaped from a tower into the river, and the fishermen declare
+that her spirit still lingers about the Bingerloch, and her voice is
+often heard amid the rushing torrent.
+
+The first vineyards here are said to have been planted by Charlemagne,
+who observed that the snow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the
+town than from other regions in the neighborhood. The Rüdesheimer Berg
+is covered with walls and arches, and terrace rises above terrace, to
+prevent the falling of the soil.
+
+We drive to the top of this charming hill whose sunny slopes are clothed
+with vineyards. Upon the summit, as on most of the others in the
+neighborhood, there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out, and here
+one may remain and enjoy the pure air and enchanting views, for a day, a
+week, or for the whole season.
+
+Here, too, is the National Monument, in describing which I will copy
+the words of my guide book:
+
+"The National Monument on the Niederwald, erected in commemoration of
+the unanimous rising of the people and the foundation of the new German
+Empire in 1870-71, stands upon a projecting spur of the hill (980 feet
+above the sea level; 740 feet above the Rhine), opposite Bingen, and is
+conspicuous far and wide. It was begun in 1877 from the designs of
+Professor Schilling of Dresden, and was inaugurated in 1883 in presence
+of Emperor William I. and numerous other German princes. The huge
+architectural basis is seventy-eight feet high, while the noble figure
+of Germania, with the imperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword, an
+emblem of the unity and strength of the empire, is thirty-three feet in
+height. The principal relief on the side of the pedestal facing the
+river, symbolizes the 'Wacht am Rhein.' It contains portraits of King
+William of Prussia and other German princes and generals, together with
+representatives of the troops from the different parts of Germany, with
+the text of the famous song below; to the right and left are allegorical
+figures of Peace and War, while below are Rhenus and Mosella, the latter
+as the future guardian of the western frontier of the empire. The fine
+reliefs on the sides of the pedestal represent the departure and the
+return of the troops."
+
+We visit many of the most noted breweries and wine vaults in the
+neighborhood. Those of Herr J. Hufnagel are the largest in this section
+of the country. They are cut in the base of the mountain, and extend
+inward many hundred feet. Here the choice wines are stored, many of the
+enormous casks containing upwards of twenty thousand quarts. Hundreds of
+barrels and hogsheads are seen; in fact every nook and corner of the
+vault is filled, and so extensive is this subterranean apartment, that
+avenues are made from one part to another, and along these we walk, the
+guide bearing a lamp to light the way.
+
+After visiting these great storerooms, we are invited to the hotel of
+the proprietor, which is close by, and on the porch we are served with
+an enjoyable lunch flavored with choice German wine.
+
+There is a beautiful drive along the river bank, and if one is tired, he
+may stop at one of the inviting restaurants in this neighborhood, and
+while resting and refreshing himself, look out at the tourists and
+others passing along the wide airy street, or as is a common custom, he
+may have his luncheon served upon the porch, from which there is a
+delightful and extended view of the Rhine. With plenty of shade and
+comfortable chairs, and the beautiful river before us, how swiftly the
+time passes! Sometimes, in consequence of our ignorance of the language,
+laughable mistakes are made in the ordering of our meals, which seem to
+increase the jollity of both the waiters and our party. On one of these
+occasions, while eating our luncheon in the open air, a band of eight or
+ten street musicians station themselves upon the porch but a few feet
+from us. They are healthy, hearty-looking men, but contrary to our
+previous experience in this country, they play the most inharmonious
+airs. We endure this for a short time, then as the discordant sounds
+become more and more annoying, we bestow upon the leader a number of
+small coins, and entreat them to begone. They evidently misunderstand
+us, and think, from our liberal contribution, that we appreciate their
+efforts, for they continue their playing with increased vigor
+and--discord. We do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters, so resign
+ourselves to the situation. After repeating their repertoire, which
+seems endless, with profuse smiling bows and thanks they leave us at
+last to the peaceful enjoyment of the day.
+
+The Niederberg is a massive rectangular castle whose three vaulted
+stories, belonging to the twelfth century, were joined to the remains of
+a structure of earlier date. It was originally the seat of the Knights
+of Rüdesheim, who were compelled to become vassals of the Archbishop of
+Mayence for brigandage.
+
+At Rüdesheim begins the Rheingau, which is the very "vineyard" of this
+country. Here every foot of ground is cultivated, and the grape is the
+monarch of the land. All the hillsides are covered with the vines, and
+here in the midst of the verdure appears the picturesque villa of the
+planter or wine merchant. It is a rich and beautiful region.
+
+From Bingen and Rüdesheim we go to Frankfort-on-the-Main. This town
+which has witnessed the coronation of many of the German emperors, is
+noted for its ancient legends, and to one of these it is said it owes
+its name. This is the story: Charlemagne, having penetrated into the
+forests to wage war against the Saxons, was once compelled to retreat
+with his brave Franks. A heavy fog lay over the country which was
+unknown to him. Fearing that his little army would be cut to pieces if
+he lingered, and unable to see more than a few feet ahead of him,
+Charlemagne prayed to the Lord for help and guidance. The next moment
+the heavy fog parted, and the emperor saw a doe leading her young
+through the stream. He instantly called to his men, and they forded the
+river in safety. The fog closed behind them and hid them from the
+pursuing enemy.
+
+In commemoration of his deliverance, Charlemagne called the place
+Frankford (the ford of the Franks), and the city which grew up shortly
+afterward retained the name.
+
+This, one of the important cities of Germany, is said to have been a
+small Roman military station in the first century, A. D.
+
+It is first mentioned as Franconoford and the seat of the royal
+residence in 793; and the following year Charlemagne held a convocation
+of bishops and dignitaries of the empire here. The town attained such a
+degree of prosperity that in 876, at the death of Lewis the German, it
+was looked upon as the capital of the east Franconian Empire. On the
+dissolution of the empire in 1806, Frankfort was made over to the
+Primate of the Rhenish Confederation, and in 1810 it became the capital
+of the grand-duchy of Frankfort.
+
+It was one of the four free cities of the German Confederation, and the
+seat of the Diet from 1815 to 1866, in which year it passed to Prussia.
+To-day we find it a handsome city of two hundred and twenty-nine
+thousand inhabitants, with beautiful streets, stately houses surrounded
+by lovely gardens, and fine stores, parks, monuments and many
+attractions for the tourist. Here are churches, theatres, libraries and
+museums, and an opera house which will accommodate two thousand
+spectators.
+
+In the Rossmarkt stands the monument of Gutenberg, which consists of
+three figures, Gutenberg in the centre with Fust and Schoffer on either
+side, upon a large sandstone pedestal. On the frieze are portrait heads
+of celebrated printers, and in the niches beneath are the arms of the
+four towns where printing was first practiced: Mayence, Frankfort,
+Venice and Strassburg. Around the base are figures representing
+Theology, Poetry, Natural Science and Industry. This monument was
+erected in 1858.
+
+This is the birthplace of Goethe, and here is the house in which the
+poet was born, with its inscription recording that event, (August 28,
+1749). The handsome monument of Goethe, erected in 1844, twelve years
+after his death adorns the Goethe-Platz. The pedestal of the monument
+bears allegorical figures in relief in front, while on the sides are
+figures from the poems of the great writer.
+
+There are twenty-three thousand Jews in Frankfort, and in the quarter to
+which these people are limited, we are shown the house in which the
+Senior Rothschild was born. It is an unassuming brick building of three
+stories, in good repair. As I gaze upon this modest dwelling, I think of
+the man who from such unpromising beginning, became the founder of the
+greatest financial firm the world has known.
+
+There is a stone effigy of Luther not far from the Cathedral, in memory
+of a tradition that the great reformer preached a sermon here on his
+journey to Worms. It is true that these associations are to be found in
+almost every European town; but none the less are we impressed as we
+stand before the monuments of the great ones of the earth--the men who
+have left their indelible marks--"footprints on the sands of time
+"--which the years have no power to efface. These men must have truly
+lived.
+
+                  "He most lives
+  Who thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best."
+
+The Cathedral of Frankford is a conspicuous edifice towering above the
+other buildings, quaint and picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in
+many of its details. From the platform of the tower, one may have a
+beautiful view of the city, with its thick border of trees, and of the
+fields and meadows beyond along the shining waters of the Main. This
+Church of St. Bartholomew was founded by Lewis the German in 852, and
+was rebuilt in the Gothic style 1235-39. The different portions
+represent various periods. The tower, left unfinished in 1512, now three
+hundred and twelve feet high, was completed from the designs of the
+architect which were discovered in the municipal archives.
+
+
+
+
+A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort.
+
+
+
+
+_A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort._
+
+  We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A
+  Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City
+  Streets--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering Place--The Promenade--The
+  Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an Artist--The
+  Race Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame Fortune--The
+  English Channel--A Bureau of Information--Queenstown--An Irish
+  Lass--The Last Stop--The End of the Journey.
+
+
+The journey from Frankfort to Berlin is through a pleasant and
+interesting country. For many miles we look from the car windows upon an
+undulating landscape: hills and valleys follow each other in rapid
+succession as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a minute. Now
+and then we pass men and women in the fields; and now young girls with
+bare feet and short skirts busily raking the hay,--true pictures of
+"Maud Muller on a summer day." And here is a whole group of "nut brown
+maids" laughing merrily at their work, while over in a corner of the
+field is the belle of the countryside listening shyly to the stalwart
+young harvester who stands on the border of the adjoining meadow.
+
+  "Her tresses loose behind
+   Play on her neck and wanton with the wind;
+   The rising blushes which her cheeks o'erspread
+   Are opening roses in the lily's bed."
+
+Now we pass the harvesters at rest, sitting under the green trees and
+hedges with their dinner pails beside them. It is a pleasant, peaceful
+picture. Here is a picturesque village with quaint looking houses, and a
+little gurgling brook in the foreground. An echo from the distant
+mountain answers the shrill whistle of our engine and we can see the
+silvery cloud of smoke that follows us wander off to the right, then
+fade away in misty fragments. In many of these settlements, there are
+shaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed, and here the villagers
+are sipping their beer, in happy social converse.
+
+The young people wave their hands and caps to us as we pass, and with
+their bright costumes animate the lovely scenes which, although so close
+to each other, are of such different character. At last we reach Berlin,
+and our great iron horse stands puffing in the station, defying man to
+detect upon him any sign of exhaustion.
+
+In this large city entertainment can be found for people of every kind
+and taste. The street known throughout the world as Unter-den-Linden is
+a splendid avenue, one hundred and sixty-five feet in width, and takes
+its name from the double row of linden trees with which it is
+ornamented. It is the busiest portion of the city, contains handsome
+hotels, beautiful palaces, large shops, and many fine statues of
+celebrated men.
+
+The first day or two after your arrival in the city, engage a carriage
+and take in the general appearance of the city, its parks and suburbs;
+then visit the art galleries, museums, palaces and churches until the
+brain becomes accustomed to the bewildering array of subjects which
+demand attention. Stroll quietly along Unter-den-Linden stopping now and
+then at one of the many stores which line this beautiful avenue. At one
+end of this thoroughfare is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a sort of
+triumphal arch. It is a fine structure, two hundred feet wide and
+seventy-five feet high, supported by Doric columns. There are five
+entrances, the central one being reserved for the passage of members of
+the royal family.
+
+The Kroll Theatre and Gardens are a popular resort for the people of
+Berlin. These gardens are illuminated every evening by thousands of
+electric lights, arranged in various designs, as flowers, harps and
+other graceful forms, and this illuminated scene is the centre of a gay
+throng of pleasure seekers, who promenade the paths, or sit about in
+groups listening to the music of the fine orchestras stationed at each
+end of the spacious grounds. The entertainment is not over until a very
+late hour.
+
+There are a number of these gardens throughout the city, which are not,
+as may be supposed, frequented by the lower classes of the people, but
+by persons of every rank in society. One can hardly appreciate this
+scene without having passed an evening amid its light-hearted crowds.
+Here may be seen officers of many honors, with conspicuous gold and
+silver badges, mingling with the groups gathered around the tables, or
+sauntering up and down the garden walks, as well as the private soldier
+in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer with his sweetheart by his
+side. Title and rank here as well as elsewhere throughout Germany, are
+honored and respected by all classes, and the salute is gracefully made
+whenever one of the army or navy men meets his superior officer.
+
+[Illustration: "Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this
+promenade." (_See page 343._)]
+
+Berlin with its life and gayety, its grandeur and simplicity, its
+hospitality and good cheer, captivates our hearts, and we enter
+joyously into the many diversions it offers; as we sit among the honest
+and kind-hearted people, we feel the charm of their social atmosphere
+and wonder why other nations do not allow themselves more time for
+relaxation and the simple pleasures which abound here.
+
+The Friedrichs-Strasse is the longest street in the city: it is well
+laid out, and contains many handsome stores. Wilhelms-Strasse is a
+beautiful avenue, and is considered the most aristocratic street in
+Berlin, as it contains the palaces of princes, ministers and other
+distinguished personages. A handsome square opens from this avenue,
+ornamented with flower-beds and fine statuary.
+
+The museums here are called the Old Museum and the New Museum; they are
+connected by a passage gallery. The entrance to the Old Museum is
+adorned by handsome statuary, and the grand portico is beautifully
+painted with allegorical and mythological subjects: within, the walls
+are decorated with frescoes representing barbarous and civilized life,
+and in the great rotunda are ancient statues of gods and goddesses. From
+this one passes to the Gallery of Gods and Heroes, the Grecian cabinet,
+the Hall of the Emperors, and that of Greek, Roman and Assyrian
+sculptures. But it is vain to attempt a description of this vast
+collection of paintings, and other works of art in the short space I
+have to devote to the subject. To appreciate a collection of this kind,
+one should visit it in person.
+
+The Thiergarten is a great park, two miles long, beautifully laid out,
+and containing many splendid old trees, rustic paths, and artificial
+ponds and streams. The grounds are ornamented with statuary, and the
+fine zoölogical collection is in good condition and well arranged. But
+we must leave fascinating Berlin, and pass on to other scenes.
+
+Now we reach Ostend on the coast of Belgium, one of the most fashionable
+watering-places of Europe. During the season it attracts thousands of
+visitors, especially from Belgium and Holland. It was originally a
+fishing station, but was enlarged by Philip the Good, and fortified by
+the Prince of Orange in 1583. In the early part of the seventeenth
+century it sustained one of the most remarkable sieges on record,
+holding out against the Spanish for a period of three years, and finally
+surrendering only at the command of the States General.
+
+[Illustration: "There are many odd and fantastic sights here." (_See
+page 347._)]
+
+To-day promenades take the places of the old fortifications, and
+handsome residences stand where the simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt
+in their cottages. The tide of fashion rolls where a simple people
+lived their daily life of care and toil. Here congregate people of every
+nation, the old and the young; and the cosmopolitan character of the
+promenade is a source of great entertainment to the stranger. As we
+approach the Digue or chief promenade, which is elevated fully a hundred
+feet above the beach, we are struck with the beauty of this grand
+esplanade, a hundred feet wide and extending miles along the shore. On
+the city side are many handsome buildings; residences, hotels, cafés and
+some stores. These buildings occupy a space fully a mile in length, but
+the promenade with its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many miles.
+Chairs and benches are placed at convenient intervals for the use of the
+public, and every day, especially in the afternoon, thousands of
+fashionably dressed people appear upon this walk, rejoicing in the
+opportunity to display elaborate gowns; some by strolling to and fro
+before the benches and chairs, and others by more ostentatiously driving
+by in handsome equipages, with coachmen and footmen in appropriate
+livery.
+
+Yet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening, listening to the
+harmonious melody of the sea, as it mingles its voice with the strains
+of a fine orchestra, and watching the merry throng passing and
+repassing. The silent night afar out on the glistening waters seems like
+a brooding spirit.
+
+  "Thou boundless, shining, glorious sea,
+   With ecstasy I gaze on thee;
+   And as I gaze, thy billowy roll
+   Wakes the deep feelings of my soul."
+
+We extend our walk and take in the Kursaal, a handsome structure of
+marble and iron built upon the side of the promenade. It covers a large
+area, and within its walls, the sounds of choice music are constantly
+heard. Dances, concerts and many other forms of entertainment keep this
+fashionable resort in a whirl both day and night. On many of these
+occasions the dressing is the most important feature of the affair. The
+people who resort thither are families of considerable wealth, and can,
+when they choose, run to extremes in paying court to Dame Fashion.
+
+[Illustration: "One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting
+subjects." (_See page 347._)]
+
+Let us descend about noon, by the long low steps, from the promenade to
+the beach below, and here we will find a long unbroken line of wagons
+facing the sea. These wagons have large numbers painted conspicuously on
+their backs: upon one side is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn,
+and a pair of strong shafts is attached to each vehicle. The stranger
+will wonder what on earth these unsightly things are designed for, and
+why they thus mar the beauty of the beach. Have patience; inexperienced
+stranger, and you will see these inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks
+and now one, now another be hauled rapidly forward, some to the water's
+edge, others into the ocean up to the hubs. In explanation of this I
+would state that when the bathing hour arrives, a horse is attached to
+each wagon, and the occupant or occupants, when it reaches the water's
+edge, open the door and spring forth a nymph and her companions, in
+their scant bathing robes, ready for the plunge. The costumes of both
+men and women are not such as find favor with fastidious mortals, and
+many of the scenes witnessed on this beach would not be tolerated at any
+of our American watering-places.
+
+It is quite common for men, women and children to remove their shoes and
+stockings and wade ankle deep in the surf.
+
+However, there are many odd and fantastic sights here, and many pretty
+tableaux on the beach which would delight the eyes of an artist, and I
+often think that one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting
+subjects.
+
+As the races are to be held this afternoon at the Course, a mile beyond
+the Kursaal, and just off the promenade, we wend our way thither. The
+race-course is similar to those in England and France. As the appointed
+hour approaches, a throng of fashionable people seat themselves upon the
+grand stand, until every place is filled, and even the aisles are
+crowded with the élite of Ostend.
+
+I forgot to mention the fact that the day is Sunday, but this seems to
+make little difference to these gayety-loving people.
+
+The horses start, and now betting and excitement go hand in hand.
+
+  "Some play for gain: to pass time, others play
+       For nothing; both do play the fool."
+
+I have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion, of predicting the
+winning horse a number of consecutive times in my conversation with one
+of our party who sits beside me. These lucky guesses attract the
+attention of a stranger who is on my other side, and considering them as
+so many evidences of remarkable judgment or knowledge, he resolves to
+profit thereby. Accordingly before the next running, as the horses walk
+slowly before the spectators and the judges' stand, the man quietly asks
+me to name the winner in the next race. I quickly make a choice and
+mention the horse's name. The stranger bids me good-day and hastens away
+to place his "pile" with some bookmaker on the identical horse which I
+have named.
+
+[Illustration: "Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel."
+(_See page 353._)]
+
+With a rush of spirit and courage the noble animals fly over the course,
+and every jockey seated in a saddle looks determined to win. Faster and
+faster they urge the flying steeds with spur and voice, and the animals
+themselves, with distended nostrils and steaming breath dash past the
+judges' stand in frenzied effort. The merry jingle of the bell proclaims
+that the goal is reached: the great sign-board with the winner's name
+upon it is visible to all. What has become of my luck? And what has
+become of the stranger who relied on my judgment a few moments ago? My
+horse has lost. Goodness! I feel as though I have committed a crime, and
+I am very sure that Dame Fortune receives from me in private a score of
+epithets, not the most complimentary in the world for her unprincipled
+desertion. I feel sure that if I had my instantaneous camera, or pencil
+handy, this disappointed man's face would make a foreground in the
+picture that would surely be a "_winner_."
+
+We leave Ostend on the steamer La Flandre. The schedule time is 10:40 A.
+M. We go on board amid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on
+shore. As it is a clear bright day with a delightful salt breeze, there
+is much pleasure in sitting on deck and enjoying the view. The English
+Channel is generally a turbulent body of water, noted for its many
+victories over the unfortunates who trust themselves in its power, but
+to-day it is mild and calm, probably plotting mischief to the next boat
+load of passengers that shall come its way.
+
+Indescribable confusion reigns in our hotel, at Liverpool, for more than
+a hundred of its guests are on the point of sailing for America.
+Innumerable packages, grips, umbrellas and walking sticks line the
+corridors. Every one is moving to and fro in hot haste. One lady asks me
+if I know at what hour the steamer on which she has taken passage will
+sail: another wants information in regard to her steamer: a man with
+perspiration trickling down his face begs me to tell him how to send his
+five trunks and other baggage to the landing stage. These and many more
+annoying and importunate people make life a burden to me. I do not know
+why they choose me to share in their misery. Do I look like a walking
+bureau of information, I wonder! If I do, I shall learn how to change my
+expression. But in truth the faces of these bewildered people are a
+study, and I am genuinely sorry for them.
+
+The steamer cuts loose from her moorings, and moves gracefully out into
+the great ocean. As we approach Queenstown, we observe the small farms
+and dwellings close to the edge of the water. Then the lighthouse and
+the forts which guard the entrance to the harbor come into view, and now
+we drop anchor and wait for passengers and the mails. A little steam tug
+becomes visible, and as she draws nearer, we learn that she is bearing
+the mails and passengers to our ship. At last she is close beside us,
+and when made fast, the transfer takes place. Now is the time for the
+camera or sketch book, for many typical Irish characters come aboard our
+vessel, with strange, half-frightened faces, and their worldly
+belongings carried on their backs, or clutched tightly in their hands.
+Among the group I notice a middle-aged woman with a young pig nestling
+peacefully under her arm. Whether it is a pet, or simply a piece of live
+stock to begin housekeeping with in the new country, I cannot say, but
+with a contented expression on both faces, Bridget and her pig disappear
+into the special quarters which are reserved for the emigrants. This
+whole scene is very interesting. The old-fashioned black glazed
+oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspicuous part in the picture, and here
+and there are seen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs and
+carried on the end of a stick, which is slung over the shoulder, while
+the corduroy knee breeches, woollen stockings, heavy shoes and
+pea-jackets with caps to match give us a fine representation of the
+Irishman on his native heath.
+
+Several small boats are floating at our side: from one of these a rope
+is thrown to a sailor on our deck, and a bright and comely Irish girl
+climbs nimbly up, hand over hand, and stands among the cabin passengers.
+With quick, deft movements she pulls up a basket filled with Irish
+knickknacks, such as pipes, crosses, pigs, spoons and forks made of
+bog-wood; these, with knit shawls and similar articles, she displays on
+deck, and it would be difficult to find a prettier, wittier, more
+attractive specimen of old Ireland's lasses than this. By means of her
+ready tongue she disposes of all her wares, and when the whistle warns
+all hands to leave the deck, she glides gracefully down the rope, and
+settling herself in her little boat, pulls for the shore.
+
+[Illustration: "Several small boats are floating at our side." (_See
+page 354._)]
+
+This is our last stop until we reach New York. The anchor is pulled up,
+and away we go steaming on our homeward voyage. The little steam tug
+runs along beside us for a time, then the whistles of both vessels
+blow a farewell to each other, and our little comrade gradually fades
+from our sight.
+
+Suddenly a heavy fog comes up, and the incessant blowing of the fog-horn
+is a tiresome sound: but the wind follows up the mist and scatters it
+far and wide, and now we have the boundless prospect of the ocean before
+us.
+
+  "Strongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows,
+   Nothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the ocean."
+
+As we gaze upon it day after day, its beauty and grandeur grow upon us
+more and more. I can think of no better words than those of Childe
+Harold which so beautifully express the thoughts the scene inspires.
+
+  "Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll.
+     Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain;
+   Man marks the earth with ruin--his control
+     Stops with the shore; upon the watery plain
+     The wrecks are all thy deeds, nor doth remain
+   A shadow of man's ravage, save his own,
+     When, for a moment, like a drop of rain,
+   He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,
+   Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined and unknown."
+
+Then, as if by magic, the huge waves lessen in their angry murmurs, the
+surface becomes quiet and calm; evening creeps on, and the glow from a
+descending sun illuminates the scene. As I look upon this beautiful and
+restful picture, I think how true the words:
+
+  "Beyond is all abyss,
+   Eternity, whose end no eye can reach."
+
+
+
+
+_The reading of this book has no doubt been a pleasure and a profit to
+you. Then why not recommend it to your friends? You will find cards on
+the inside of the back cover to assist you._
+
+[Illustration: "Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can
+reach." (_See page 358._)]
+
+
+
+
+  BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS
+
+  British Isles through an Opera Glass
+  By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.
+
+  Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan." With 48 full-page
+  illustrations, principally from photographs. Crown 8vo, about 350
+  pages, deckle edge paper, cloth jacket, in box, $2.00.
+
+
+What is said of "The British Isles"
+
+Mr. Taylor has the knack of making the story of his journeyings
+entertaining to the public. The usual descriptions of time-worn scenes
+give place to charming personal narrative, and a wealth of incident and
+episode gives to the book an exceptional interest. The fine half-tones
+of English scenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance
+its charm.--_The Philadelphia Call._
+
+It is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of
+travel, not only in England, but in Scotland and Ireland. The author
+takes little from the guide books and their familiar histories, but
+notes many interesting details that attracted his own attention.
+Furthermore he has illustrated his book with a large number of
+photographs, both of places and people, that are quite out of the common
+run, and the pictures alone would suffice to give the volume
+distinction.--_The Philadelphia Times._
+
+The book is all the eye could wish, and as we turn the pages quickly
+from one to another of the forty-eight beautiful photographic
+illustrations a veritable panorama passes before us. The author is
+enthusiastic over what he saw in the British Isles, and he is evidently
+desirous of sharing his pleasure with those who have not been privileged
+to see for themselves.--_The Philadelphia American._
+
+It is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who
+knows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love
+travel would like to be.--_The Bookseller._
+
+Mr. Taylor traveled through the British Isles with an observing eye, a
+ready note-book, and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence.
+The narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote, while the
+personal point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy. The
+volume is beautifully made, and the photographs, about fifty in number,
+are particularly well reproduced in half-tones--_The Philadelphia
+Press._
+
+For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price
+by the publishers
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103-105 South Fifteenth Street         Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+  BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS
+
+  Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan
+  By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.
+
+  With over 100 half-tone illustrations, principally from photographs.
+  Crown 8vo. 361 pages, gilt top, uncut edges. With unique cover design.
+  Price, $2.00.
+
+
+What is said of "Vacation Days"
+
+Mr. Taylor is a keen observer, who penetrated beyond the beaten track of
+the usual tourist, and his sketches of Home Life, Natural Beauties and
+Every-day scenes, have individuality and charm.--_Literary News._
+
+The narrative is written in a clear, easy style, with an aptitude for
+giving just that kind of information concerning everyday life which
+people miss too often in books of travel.--_Philadelphia Press._
+
+A very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from
+photographs taken by the author of "Japanese people," men, women and
+children, engaged at their ordinary vocations, also pictures of Japanese
+scenery, shops, living rooms and temples. These illustrations are
+remarkable for their realism.--_Indianapolis Journal._
+
+The book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through Hawaii and
+Japan. The special value of the narrative is that it covers points of
+interest in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded
+in the guide books and ordinary books of travel.---_The Philadelphia
+Call._
+
+A four months' trip through Hawaii and Japan is narrated in this compact
+and entertaining volume. Mr. Taylor applies systematic methods to his
+sight-seeing. He is an appreciative observer as well. He was not content
+with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear, picturesque and
+fresh.--_The Philadelphia Ledger._
+
+Two conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average in
+its class; it describes new grounds and scenes, and the narrative
+ripples along with the ease and liveliness of a brook. Without
+professing to be specially instructive, Mr. Taylor conveys a great
+amount of information such as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant
+way, blending the matter of fact with the entertaining.--_The
+Philadelphia American._
+
+For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price
+by the publishers
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103-105 South Fifteenth Street         Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and
+Camera, by Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH ***
+
+***** This file should be named 36110-8.txt or 36110-8.zip *****
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera, by 
+Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera
+
+Author: Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2011 [EBook #36110]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Juliet Sutherland and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #dcdcdc; color: #696969; " summary="Transcriber's note">
+<tr>
+<td style="width:25%; vertical-align:top">
+Transcriber&rsquo;s note:
+</td>
+<td class="norm">
+A few typographical errors have been corrected. They
+appear in the text <span class="correction" title="explanation will pop up">like this</span>, and the
+explanation will appear when the mouse pointer is moved over the marked
+passage.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:588px; height:700px" src="images/img_cover.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption"></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:515px; height:700px" src="images/img001.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">THE CANAL AT MONNIKENDAM</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center" style="color: #c11B17; font-size: 250%;">Odd Bits of Travel<br />
+
+<span style="font-size: 50%;">with</span><br />
+
+Brush and Camera</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center f90">by</p>
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center f150">CHARLES M. TAYLOR, <span class="sc">Jr.</span></p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center f80">Author of &ldquo;Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan&rdquo;<br />
+and &ldquo;The British Isles Through an<br />
+Opera Glass,&rdquo; Etc., Etc.</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center">Profusely Illustrated by the Author</p>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center">Philadelphia</p>
+
+<p class="center" style="font-size: 110%; letter-spacing: 0.2em;">GEORGE W. JACOBS &amp; CO.</p>
+
+<p class="center" style="letter-spacing: 0.2em;">103 and 105 South Fifteenth Street</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center f80">Copyright, 1900, by<br />
+<span class="sc">George W. Jacobs &amp; Co</span></p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center">TO MY WIFE</p>
+
+<p class="pt2">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page3" id="page3"></a>3</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Preface.</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 100px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:52px; height:90px" src="images/img_i.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">
+N almost every walk of life, even among artists
+and photographers, we find those who are
+enthusiasts, and who work with such ardor
+and perseverance as to overcome all difficulties;
+while there are others who seem to desire
+the hard and rough places smoothed down, and the
+obstacles removed from their pathways. In writing
+this volume, it has been my purpose to enlist the attention
+of both of these classes, and to bring before
+the ardent worker as well as the ease-loving, but no
+less interested, follower of art, places and scenes
+that afford unusual attractions for the brush and
+camera.</p>
+
+<p>It might truthfully be said that in one&rsquo;s city may
+be found innumerable subjects of interest to both
+the amateur and professional artist; but change of
+food, scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both
+mind and body, and it is ofttimes wise to pass to
+new scenes and broader fields of observation.</p>
+
+<p>The places described herein are not linked together
+by proximity of location and follow no regular line
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page4" id="page4"></a>4</span>
+of travel; but are selected from various lands and
+from among widely differing peoples, for the sole
+purpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable
+and photographic subjects. I have endeavored to
+select nooks and corners where the artist and photographer
+will have suitable accommodations, and
+where the country with its fresh, pure air, and
+wholesome food may build up the health, while at
+the same time an opportunity is afforded for filling
+the portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and
+characteristic figure studies. It has also been my
+aim to tell of countries and places comparatively
+easy of access, and where those of limited means
+may find satisfactory accommodations.</p>
+
+<p>At times I digress in my pictorial descriptions and
+offer some Bits of personal experience that have befallen
+me upon my journeys, which I trust may
+prove of interest and perhaps be of service to others
+travelling through the same places. It is with these
+purposes in view that the following pages have
+been written, and my hope is that they may serve
+to guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the
+attractive spots and fascinating views which I have
+attempted to describe in these <span class="sc">Odd Bits of Travel</span>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Philadelphia, 1900.</i></p>
+<p style="text-align: right; padding-right: 2em;">C. M. T., <span class="sc">Jr</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page5" id="page5"></a>5</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center"><i>CONTENTS</i></p>
+
+<table class="reg" style="width: 90%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcr f80" colspan="2">PAGE</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Passing Vessels&mdash;The Ocean&mdash;Sudden Changes&mdash;Taking Photographs&mdash;The
+Landing-Stage at Liverpool&mdash;New Brighton&mdash;In
+the Country&mdash;Liverpool by Night&mdash;Salvationists&mdash;Old
+Taverns&mdash;Chester&mdash;An English Home&mdash;Relics&mdash;The
+Cathedral&mdash;The River Dee&mdash;Leamington&mdash;The River
+Leam&mdash;Warwick Castle&mdash;An Old Mill&mdash;Through Kenilworth,
+Coventry and Stoneleigh&mdash;&ldquo;The King&rsquo;s Arms&rdquo;&mdash;Nature&rsquo;s
+Pictures</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page15">15</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Lights and Shadows of London Life</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The Shadow Side&mdash;The Slums&mdash;The City by Night&mdash;Vice and
+Misery&mdash;&ldquo;Chinese Johnson&rsquo;s&rdquo; Opium Den&mdash;The &ldquo;Bunco&rdquo;
+Man&mdash;An English Guard&mdash;&ldquo;The Grand Old Man&rdquo;&mdash;Caution
+to Tourists&mdash;Great Cities by Night&mdash;The Seven
+Dials&mdash;Derby Day&mdash;The Tally-Ho&mdash;Old Robin Hood
+Inn&mdash;Epsom Hill&mdash;The Races&mdash;Exciting Scenes&mdash;Side
+Shows&mdash;The Close of the Day</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page57">57</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Scenes in the Gay Capital</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Dover to Calais&mdash;Paris&mdash;-The Gay Capital by Night&mdash;Boulevards&mdash;Life
+in the Streets&mdash;Champs Élysées&mdash;Place de
+la Concorde&mdash;Arc d&rsquo;Etoile&mdash;Place Vendome&mdash;Louvre&mdash;Opera
+House&mdash;Palais Royal&mdash;Church of the Invalides&mdash;Versailles&mdash;Notre
+Dame&mdash;Jardin Mabille&mdash;The Madeleine&mdash;The
+Pantheon&mdash;The Banks of the Seine&mdash;French
+Funeral Ceremonies&mdash;La Morgue&mdash;Pere Lachaise</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page83">83</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page6" id="page6"></a>6</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Antwerp and the City of Windmills</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">From Paris to Antwerp&mdash;Along the Route&mdash;Thrifty Farmers&mdash;Antwerp&mdash;Dogs
+in Harness&mdash;The River&mdash;Old Churches&mdash;Chimes&mdash;An
+Inappreciative Listener&mdash;Steen Museum&mdash;Instruments
+of Torture&mdash;Lace Industry&mdash;Living Expenses&mdash;Hospitality&mdash;The
+City of Windmills&mdash;Watery
+Highways&mdash;A City of Canals&mdash;The Maas River&mdash;The
+Houses on the Canals&mdash;Travel by Boat&mdash;Novel Scenes&mdash;Costly
+Headgear&mdash;Dutch Costumes&mdash;Powerful Draught
+Horses&mdash;No Bonbons&mdash;Chocolate Candy&mdash;In the Market-Place&mdash;The
+Belle of the Market&mdash;Photographs&mdash;Wooden
+Shoes&mdash;Drawbridges&mdash;Blowing the Horn&mdash;Ancient Relics&mdash;The
+Sword of Columbus</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page101">101</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">A City of Many Islands</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Amsterdam&mdash;The People of Holland&mdash;Amstel River&mdash;Merry
+Excursionists&mdash;Interesting Institutions&mdash;Origin of the
+City&mdash;Source of Prosperity&mdash;A Cousin to Venice&mdash;Ninety
+Islands&mdash;Beams and Gables&mdash;Block and Tackle&mdash;Old
+Salesmen&mdash;Street Markets&mdash;Haarlem&mdash;Railway Travel
+at Home and Abroad&mdash;Ancient Buildings&mdash;Historic Associations&mdash;In
+the Canal&mdash;Groote Kerk&mdash;The Great
+Organ&mdash;Picturesque Subjects&mdash;Zandvoort&mdash;Eau de Cologne&mdash;The
+Beach&mdash;Dutch Sail Boats&mdash;Seamen&mdash;Hooded
+Chairs&mdash;Peddlers&mdash;Music in Holland and Germany&mdash;Gypsies&mdash;We
+Meet an Artist&mdash;Hospitality&mdash;A Banquet</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page127">127</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Excursions To Broek and the Island of Marken</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A Charming Journey&mdash;Fellow-Passengers&mdash;National Costumes&mdash;The
+Children&mdash;A Lovely Landscape&mdash;Holstein Cattle&mdash;Windmills&mdash;Irrigation&mdash;Farmers&mdash;A
+Typical Dutch
+Village&mdash;Washing-Day&mdash;The Red, White and Blue&mdash;Suppose
+a Bull Should Appear&mdash;A Brilliant Picture&mdash;Drawing
+the Canal Boat&mdash;Honesty and Cleanliness&mdash;A
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page7" id="page7"></a>7</span>
+Thrifty and Industrious People&mdash;Farming and Cheese-making&mdash;As
+Evening Falls&mdash;Scenes for an Artist&mdash;Dead
+Cities of Holland&mdash;Monnikendam&mdash;Behind the Age&mdash;City
+Lamps&mdash;Houses and People&mdash;The Island of Marken&mdash;An
+Isolated Wonderland&mdash;First Impressions&mdash;Rare Holidays&mdash;The
+Family Doctor&mdash;Absence of the Men&mdash;The Fishing&mdash;Healthy
+and Industrious Population&mdash;The Women of
+Marken&mdash;Pretty Girls&mdash;They Will not be Taken&mdash;A Valuable
+Experience&mdash;Photographs</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page149">149</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">The Ancient Town of Monnikendam</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Marken Homes&mdash;Beds in the Wall&mdash;Family Heirlooms&mdash;An
+Ancient Clock&mdash;Precious Treasures&mdash;Quaint Customs&mdash;Betrothed
+Couples&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;Its Interior&mdash;A Lack of
+Patrons&mdash;Costumes of a By-gone Age&mdash;Farewell to Marken&mdash;Remote
+Districts&mdash;Monnikendam&mdash;Ancient Houses&mdash;Hotel
+de Posthoorn&mdash;The Postman of the Past&mdash;A
+Difficult Stairway&mdash;We Stroll about the Town&mdash;Our Retinue&mdash;In
+Front of the Hotel&mdash;Such Curious Children&mdash;Supper&mdash;We
+Visit the Shops&mdash;Pantomime&mdash;A Novel Experience&mdash;They
+Cannot Understand&mdash;No Candles&mdash;We
+Attract a Crowd&mdash;The Clothing Store&mdash;A Marken Suit&mdash;&ldquo;Too
+High&rdquo;&mdash;Bargaining&mdash;A Stranger to the Rescue</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page177">177</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Old Customs and Quaint Pictures</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Segars and Tobacco&mdash;Row Boats&mdash;&ldquo;Gooden Morgen&rdquo;&mdash;The
+Zuyder Zee&mdash;By Candle Light&mdash;Total Darkness&mdash;The
+Town by Night&mdash;Women and Girls&mdash;Shoes and Stockings&mdash;The
+Shuffling Man&mdash;Streets and Sidewalks&mdash;The Town
+Crier&mdash;The Daily News&mdash;A Message to the People&mdash;Draught
+Dogs&mdash;Milkmaids&mdash;The Barber Shop&mdash;Drug
+Stores&mdash;Horretje&mdash;A Street Auction&mdash;Selling Curios&mdash;They
+Leave their Shoes at the Door&mdash;An Old Grist Mill&mdash;The
+Holland Draught Girl</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page205">205</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page8" id="page8"></a>8</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">A Dutch Cheese-making District</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A Cheese-making Country&mdash;Edam Cheese&mdash;A Picturesque Inn&mdash;An
+Interesting Interior&mdash;A Thrifty Farmer&mdash;At Sunrise&mdash;In
+the Cow Stable&mdash;The Pretty Maid&mdash;Stall and
+Parlor&mdash;The Cheese Room&mdash;The Process of Making
+Cheese&mdash;&ldquo;I Have Listened and Listened&rdquo;&mdash;A Trip to
+Volendam&mdash;A Fine Country Road&mdash;A Charming Day&mdash;Muzzled
+Dogs&mdash;The Only Street&mdash;A Multitude of Children&mdash;Gay
+Decorations&mdash;A United People&mdash;As a Hen
+and Her Brood&mdash;Their Wealth is Their Health&mdash;In Sunday
+Dress&mdash;Stalwart Men and Sturdy Women&mdash;A Higher
+Type&mdash;&ldquo;I Have Enough&rdquo;&mdash;Fishermen&mdash;The Anchorage&mdash;A
+Volendam Suit</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page233">233</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Volendam Sights, and the Oldest Town on the Rhine</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Church is Out&mdash;The Promenade&mdash;&ldquo;Every Man is a Volume&rdquo;&mdash;An
+Old Suit&mdash;His Sunday Clothes&mdash;&ldquo;Let Him Have
+It&rdquo;&mdash;An Obedient Son&mdash;The Silver Buttons&mdash;The Last
+Straw&mdash;An Uncommon Action&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;An Artist&rsquo;s
+Resort&mdash;An Unfinished Painting&mdash;Good-bye&mdash;The Ancient
+City of Cologne&mdash;The Cathedral&mdash;Within the
+&ldquo;Dom&rdquo;&mdash;A Wonderful Collection&mdash;Foundation of the
+Town&mdash;History&mdash;Vicissitudes&mdash;Public Gardens&mdash;Eau de
+Cologne&mdash;The Palace of Brühl</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page255">255</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">Along the Banks of the Rhine</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Bonn&mdash;The Birthplace of Beethoven&mdash;The Museum&mdash;Monument&mdash;A
+Famous Restaurant&mdash;College Students&mdash;Beer
+Mugs&mdash;Special Tables&mdash;Affairs of Honor&mdash;Königswinter&mdash;Magnificent
+Views&mdash;Drachenfels&mdash;The Castle&mdash;The
+Dombruch&mdash;Siegfried and the Dragon&mdash;A Desecrated
+Ruin&mdash;The Splendor of the Mountains&mdash;Many Visitors&mdash;View
+from the Summit&mdash;The Students&rsquo; Chorus&mdash;German
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" id="page9"></a>9</span>
+Life&mdash;A German Breakfast&mdash;The Camera&mdash;Old Castles
+and Lofty Mountains&mdash;Legends of the Rhine&mdash;The Waters
+of the Rhine&mdash;Vineyards</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page283">283</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">From Bingen on the Rhine To Frankfort-on-the-Main</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Vast Vineyards&mdash;Bingen&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;The Down Quilt&mdash;A
+German Maid&mdash;Taverns&mdash;The Mouse Tower&mdash;Rüdesheim&mdash;Niederwald&mdash;The
+Rheingau&mdash;The National Monument&mdash;The
+Castle of Niederburg&mdash;Wine Vaults&mdash;The River&mdash;Street
+Musicians&mdash;A Misunderstanding&mdash;Frankfort-on-the-Main&mdash;The
+Crossing of the Ford&mdash;A Free City&mdash;Monument
+of Goethe&mdash;History&mdash;A Convocation of Bishops&mdash;The
+City Monument of Gutenberg&mdash;The House in which
+Rothschild was Born&mdash;Luther</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page313">313</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcc pt1 sc" colspan="2">A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">We Start for Berlin&mdash;Mountain and Valley&mdash;Harvesters&mdash;Villages&mdash;A
+Great City&mdash;Unter den Linden&mdash;Kroll
+Theatre and Garden&mdash;The City Streets&mdash;The Brandenburg
+Gate&mdash;Potsdam&mdash;The Old Palace&mdash;Sans Souci&mdash;Ostend&mdash;A
+Fashionable Watering-Place&mdash;The Promenade&mdash;The
+Kursaal&mdash;On the Beach&mdash;Bathing Machines&mdash;Studies
+for an Artist&mdash;The Race-Course&mdash;Sunday&mdash;The
+Winning Horse&mdash;Fickle Dame Fortune&mdash;The
+English Channel&mdash;A Bureau of Information&mdash;Queenstown&mdash;An
+Irish Lass&mdash;The Last Stop&mdash;The End of the
+Journey</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page333">333</a></td></tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page10" id="page10"></a>10</span></p>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" id="page11"></a>11</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">List of Illustrations.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" style="width: 70%;" summary="Contents">
+<tr><td class="tcr f80" colspan="2">PAGE</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Canal at Monnikendam</td> <td class="tcrb">(<i>Frontispiece</i>)</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page17">17</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page22">22</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page26">26</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Amongst these are two typical products of the British Isles</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page30">30</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">This is a fine field for the student of human nature</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page35">35</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Wayside Inn, New Brighton</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page39">39</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page43">43</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Suburban residence</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page48">48</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">White Hall Horse Guards&rsquo; Barracks</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page65">65</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A short run of an hour</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page74">74</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The chalky cliffs of Dover</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page79">79</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page106">106</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The place is intersected everywhere by canals</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page112">112</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page117">117</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The belle of the market</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page123">123</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The Amstel River</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page132">132</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page141">141</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page152">152</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Most of the houses have a canal at the back</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page156">156</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The blue stream finds its outlet in the river</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page161">161</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">All persuasions accomplish naught</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page165">165</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">One old woman is fascinated with the camera</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page170">170</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">We walk along the narrow streets</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page176">176</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike scene</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page182">182</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Hotel de Posthoorn</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page187">187</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page193">193</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" id="page12"></a>12</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">There is a young man whose walk is all his own</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page200">200</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page204">204</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page208">208</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A street auction</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page213">213</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page217">217</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page221">221</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Land and water</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page228">228</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">A good road for the bicycle</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page232">232</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page241">241</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The houses are roofed with red tiles</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page245">245</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page254">254</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">As the congregation draws nearer we halt before the foremost group</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page258">258</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Every man is a volume if you know how to read him</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page263">263</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Goeden dag. Tot weerziens</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page267">267</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Palace of Brühl</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page276">276</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Lovely walks, and bowery avenues</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page282">282</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Not far off stands the statue of the artist</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page287">287</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page293">293</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page302">302</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Every turn of the river presents a different view</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page306">306</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page311">311</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page315">315</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this promenade</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page338">338</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">There are many odd and fantastic sights here</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page342">342</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">One&rsquo;s portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page346">346</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page350">350</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Several small boats are floating at our side</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page355">355</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="tcl">Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can reach</td> <td class="tcrb"><a href="#page359">359</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" id="page13"></a>13</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" id="page14"></a>14</span></p>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" id="page15"></a>15</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Passing Vessels&mdash;The Ocean&mdash;Sudden Changes&mdash;Taking Photographs&mdash;The
+Landing Stage at Liverpool&mdash;New Brighton&mdash;In
+the Country&mdash;Liverpool by Night&mdash;Salvationists&mdash;Old
+Taverns&mdash;Chester&mdash;An English Home&mdash;Relics&mdash;The Cathedral&mdash;The
+River Dee&mdash;Leamington&mdash;The River Leam&mdash;Warwick
+Castle&mdash;An Old Mill&mdash;Through Kenilworth, Coventry
+and Stoneleigh&mdash;&ldquo;The King&rsquo;s Arms&rdquo;&mdash;Nature&rsquo;s Pictures.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 140px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:92px; height:90px" src="images/img_w.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">E sight a steamer on our leeward side. A
+passing vessel is a great excitement on
+an ocean voyage. From the time when
+she first appears, a tiny speck on the
+distant horizon, every one is on deck watching her
+as she slowly climbs into full view, then draws
+nearer and nearer to our floating palace. How
+companionable she seems in the vast waste around
+us. We wonder to which line she belongs; what
+is her name; her speed, and whither she is bound:
+and now that she is within hailing distance, we
+await eagerly the result of the usual interchange of
+questions and answers by means of small flags and
+a certain code of signals, well understood throughout
+the nautical world. The following are some of
+the questions asked: &ldquo;To what line do you belong?&rdquo;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" id="page16"></a>16</span>
+&ldquo;What is your port?&rdquo; &ldquo;Have you seen
+any icebergs?&rdquo; &ldquo;Met any wrecks?&rdquo; &ldquo;Are you
+a tramp?&rdquo; and so on, until both sides are satisfied,
+then away she speeds on her course, while the
+passengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one
+another through their glasses until they are lost in
+the distance. The excitement is over, and we all
+return to our former occupations, or stand looking
+idly out to sea until once more there is a cry: &ldquo;A
+sail! A sail!&rdquo; and we begin to hope that she too
+is coming our way. Straining our eyes through the
+powerful field-glasses, we perceive that she is coming
+toward us, and will probably cross our line.
+Larger and larger she appears as she steadily advances,
+until she attracts the attention of every one
+on deck. She is now quite close to us, and proves
+to be a Barkentine under full sail. We shout a
+greeting to the crew, and wave our handkerchiefs
+as she passes, and the sailors smile in return and
+take off their caps.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" id="page17"></a>17</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:460px" src="images/img020.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 16.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" id="page18"></a>18</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" id="page19"></a>19</span></p>
+
+<p>The ocean air is delightful and invigorating, the
+sky a perfect azure, and the translucent waves with
+their foamy edges stretch away in long beautiful
+curves. We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune,
+as the waters plash softly over the steamer&rsquo;s sides,
+and we speed steadily forward, with the rush and
+swish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild
+sweet melody all its own. To fall asleep on deck
+amid these charming conditions is delightful indeed.
+But how quickly the scene changes. Suddenly a
+shrill whistle from the Quartermaster summons all
+hands to the deck. Orders are rapidly given in
+quick sharp tones: &ldquo;Aloft. Take sail in.&rdquo; &ldquo;Aye,
+aye, sir,&rdquo; is the swift response, in a twinkling the
+sure-footed sailors are up among the yards, perched
+in seemingly impossible places, reefing the flapping
+sails in preparation for the coming storm. Dark
+clouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below,
+and heaving billows surround us, uniting with a
+furious wind that seems bent on the destruction of
+our noble ship. The sailors in the rigging are swaying
+to and fro, and the panic-stricken passengers in
+the cabins are telling each other with pale faces that
+belie their words that they are not afraid, for there
+is no danger; yet they listen anxiously for every
+sound from above, and will not allow their dear
+ones to move beyond reach of their hands. There
+is no music now in the rushing of the waves or the
+flapping of the sails. Old Neptune in his angry
+moods is not a desirable companion. But nothing
+lasts forever, and from storm and night and black
+despair the flower of hope arises, for there comes a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" id="page20"></a>20</span>
+lull, followed by a furious blinding onslaught, and
+then the spirit of the hurricane calls his followers
+and flies up, away, somewhere beyond our ken:
+the captain&rsquo;s face relaxes from its tense expression,
+and he looks proudly around his good ship which
+has come out victor in the struggle with the
+elements. One by one, the passengers appear on
+deck, the purple clouds, after a final frown of disapproval
+at things in general, break into smiles, life
+on shipboard resumes its everyday attitude, and all
+goes &ldquo;merry as a marriage bell.&rdquo; Life is full of
+contrasts. This is a picture for which neither
+brush nor camera is ready. He who would paint it
+must draw it from its recess in his memory, or from
+some sheltered nook on shore, and be cool and calm
+enough to follow his favorite occupation in spite of
+the consciousness that life and death are struggling
+for mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make
+him famous if he can but truly portray it upon his
+canvas.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" id="page21"></a>21</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:458px" src="images/img024.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 16.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" id="page22"></a>22</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" id="page23"></a>23</span></p>
+
+<p>But there are many tableaux and picturesque
+situations here, very tempting to the traveller who
+carries with him his sketch book or camera, and I
+entertain my companions as well as myself by
+photographing many a little group both comical and
+interesting in the world around us. I invite our
+friends to the lower deck, where I wish to take
+pictures of some of the steerage passengers.
+Amongst these are two typical products of the
+British Isles&mdash;one a robust Irishman of shillalah
+fame, and the other a bonny boy from Scotland. I
+make known to them my desire to have their photographs,
+whereupon the quick witted Irishman,
+without doubt knowing the quality of his face,
+which is one of the ugliest I have ever seen, begins
+at once to bargain with me for the privilege of
+transferring it to my camera. It is true I could have
+stolen a march on him by a snap shot, and he been
+all unconscious of the act, but wishing to keep up
+the comedy I asked at what price he values his face.
+He replies that if I will take up a collection from the
+passengers around us, he will accept that as full
+pay. My friends of the cabin enter into the spirit
+of the play, and quite a goodly sum finds its way
+into the horny hand of the Hibernian athlete, who
+now, with a broad smile of satisfaction, intimates
+that he is ready to be &ldquo;taken.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>These pictures too join the gallery of our yesterdays.
+Swift has truly said: &ldquo;It is the talent of
+human nature to run from one extreme to another.&rdquo;
+The long voyage is over, and all hearts rejoice in the
+sight of land, and now we are upon the landing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page24" id="page24"></a>24</span>
+stage at Liverpool, amidst the throng of excited
+passengers, all moving hither and thither in search
+of baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the confusion
+of trunks, porters, policemen, drays and
+ubiquitous small boys. This is a fine field for the
+student of human nature. Here are groups of inexperienced
+travellers looking anxiously about them,
+wondering how it is possible to extricate their belongings
+from the indistinguishable mass before
+them, and laboring under the dread that when found,
+a fierce and merciless custom-house official will
+seize upon trunks and boxes, and deaf to all protestations,
+dump the contents, from a shoe to a
+hat, upon the floor, to the everlasting confusion
+of the owners and the amusement of the spectators.
+The cool indifference of those who have
+crossed the ocean many times is in marked contrast
+to these panic-stricken, and really pitiable
+creatures.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page25" id="page25"></a>25</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:464px" src="images/img028.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro.&rdquo; (See page 19.)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page26" id="page26"></a>26</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page27" id="page27"></a>27</span></p>
+
+<p>Then there is the &ldquo;happy-go-lucky&rdquo; youth, who
+finds all this tumult a great joke, and who wanders
+carelessly about, with the serene confidence that
+&ldquo;things&rdquo; will turn out all right; which they generally
+do. Here is the fashionable mother with her
+pretty daughters who evince a charming delight in
+everything that happens; the fussy mama who is
+sure that her baggage has not come ashore, or that
+the officers of the custom-house are in league
+against her; children separated from parents or
+nurses, shrieking wildly in their terror, while others,
+more venturesome and curious, are in every one&rsquo;s
+way. Porters elbow their way through the crowd,
+cabmen shout in stentorian tones, policemen watch
+the masses, and now and then in sharp curt tones
+call a delinquent to order. A placid looking old
+gentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor
+stands in the midst of a picturesque party of young
+people, evidently his grandchildren. They all look
+so happy that it seems contagious, for the troubled
+countenances of their neighbors break into sympathetic
+smiles as they glance at this joyous family
+group. Every shade of human expression may be
+observed in this motley throng, and he who has
+eyes to see will find many a charming tableau, many
+a pathetic scene or diverting situation that would
+enrich a sketch book, or prove a valuable addition
+to the collection made by the ready camera. The
+various changes of expression are worth studying,
+for where &ldquo;luxuriant joy and pleasure in excess&rdquo;
+appear at one moment, the next may behold an
+angry frown, and a struggle as if for life amid the
+surging tide of humanity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page28" id="page28"></a>28</span></p>
+
+<table class="reg f90" summary="poem"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Now one&rsquo;s the better&mdash;then the other best</p>
+<p class="i05">Both tugging to be victor, breast to breast</p>
+<p class="i05">Yet neither conqueror, or is conquered.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Taking a small steamer which plies between
+Liverpool and New Brighton, one may for a few
+cents, after a half hour&rsquo;s ride, land at an attractive
+and much frequented watering-place upon the bank
+of the Mersey River, opposite Liverpool. This resort
+is the pleasure-ground of the middle classes,
+and is well worth a visit. Upon a holiday many
+thousands flock to its shores which remind one of
+Vanity Fair, where numerous phases and conditions
+of life are represented. Here is the indefatigable
+and annoying travelling photographer with his
+&ldquo;Four for a shilling. Take you in two minutes.
+Ladies and gentlemen, step in and see the finest
+pictures to be found in this country. Bridal groups
+a specialty.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page29" id="page29"></a>29</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:461px" src="images/img032.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Amongst these are two typical products of the British Isles.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 23.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page30" id="page30"></a>30</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page31" id="page31"></a>31</span></p>
+
+<p>Here are games of all kinds, pony and donkey
+riding, and all the shows to be found at the
+popular seashore resort. The &ldquo;merry-go-round&rdquo;
+is in full swing, with a crowd of spectators,
+among them many wistful children, watching the
+prancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses. The
+music here is quite inspiring, and the numerous
+small boys and maidens who lack the necessary
+pennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze at
+their more fortunate companions with woe-begone
+countenances. Strains less animated, but more
+melodious attract us to a fine dancing hall, where
+the older lads and lasses are tripping about in a
+lively manner. The light dresses, colored ribbons
+and happy faces make a pretty picture. Along the
+beach are beautiful views, worthy of a master hand,
+while out in the country the typical English houses
+with their massive thatched roofs and lovely surroundings
+of trees, lawns and gardens fair, cannot
+fail to captivate the artist&rsquo;s eyes.</p>
+
+<p>A stroll through the streets and byways of Liverpool
+at night is a sad but interesting experience.
+Alas for the misery and crime and want that exist
+in all the great cities! Girls, young and pretty, but
+no longer innocent, may be seen in scores in every
+locality: children with poverty and depravity written
+on their faces boldly address one at the street
+corners: men and women, with sharp, pinched features
+and misery and despair in their voices, beseech
+one for alms, or with fierce cunning lie in
+wait for the unwary. Sick at heart and with inexpressible
+pity we wend our way from one point to
+another. Vice, crime, want, suffering meet our
+eyes on every side: and the old hopeless cry: Why
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page32" id="page32"></a>32</span>
+must these things be? rises up again in our souls.
+Through the whole night long upon the curb stones,
+at the corners, lounging against the windows and
+doors of closed houses or shops, this lower
+stratum of life appears with its atmosphere of
+dusky gloom. When the daylight dawns upon the
+city, it seems to shrivel up and shrink into the
+mouths of the yawning black cellars and foul alleys
+whose very breath is a deadly poison. There are
+dozens of taverns scattered about the city, and
+within these rooms or stalls are partitioned off
+where sin may be screened from public view, for
+even those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so
+low that they dare not carry on their nefarious
+operations in the face of their everyday companions.
+These dens are countenanced by the authorities,
+and one may find within them criminals of
+every grade who prey upon each other for their
+sustenance: but in the long run, it is the proprietor
+who comes out with a substantial bank account.</p>
+
+<p>Beggars, peddlers, musicians, singers of both
+sexes, and itinerant vendors of all kinds jostle each
+other in these haunts of sin, and great caution
+should be exercised in visiting them, for in certain
+localities, crimes of the most brutal character are of
+daily, I might say hourly occurrence. I would suggest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page33" id="page33"></a>33</span>
+that the tourist should at such times depend
+for safety upon the company of a first-class detective.</p>
+
+<p>Let praise be given where it is due. The Salvationists
+of Europe have by their indefatigable labors
+reclaimed thousands of these men and women from
+their lives of sin and misery. You will meet these
+untiring workers everywhere, exhorting, praying,
+pleading with fallen humanity. These noble bands
+of Christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome
+hovels, and, wrestling with filth and disease, in
+many cases come off victorious. They have been
+known to wash the clothing and cleanse the houses of
+fever-stricken families, and supply wholesome food
+and care for helpless infants, defied at every step
+by a drunken son or father. They fear nothing,
+knowing that their cause is God&rsquo;s cause, and that in
+the end Almighty Goodness shall win an eternal
+conquest.</p>
+
+<p>It is customary throughout England to close all
+the saloons on Sundays until noon, after which
+time they open their doors, and remain open till
+midnight as upon week-days.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many cities whose haunts I have visited at
+night, I think that without exception, unless it be
+London, Liverpool leads in depravity and vice.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page34" id="page34"></a>34</span></p>
+
+<p>The country from Liverpool to Chester abounds
+in attractive scenery, local in character and possessing
+the additional charm of novelty for the American
+tourist. Along the route are scattered a number
+of old taverns, such as &ldquo;The Horn,&rdquo; &ldquo;The
+Green Tree,&rdquo; and similar names. Dismounting
+from bicycle or trap, the traveller who enters one
+of these ancient landmarks will find everything in
+&ldquo;apple pie order&rdquo;: the floor clean and shining like
+a bright new dollar just launched from the mint.
+He will sit at a table within one of the three stalls
+on either side of the little room, and the landlord&rsquo;s
+wife will bring him a bumper of &ldquo;good auld Al,&rdquo;
+the effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial,
+if it corresponds with my experience.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page35" id="page35"></a>35</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:458px; height:700px" src="images/img038.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;This is a fine field for the student of human nature.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 24.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page36" id="page36"></a>36</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page37" id="page37"></a>37</span></p>
+
+<p>Chester, oldest of English cities, is full of quaint
+residences and other ancient buildings. The old
+wall which surrounds the town is the only one in
+Great Britain which has been preserved entire. It
+forms a continuous ring, although in some places
+the earth has climbed so far above its base, that it
+appears no higher than a terrace. Its rugged outer
+parapet is still complete, and the wide flagging
+forms a delightful promenade, with a fine view of
+the surrounding country. The earliest date which
+we find upon the wall is <span class="scs">A. D.</span> 61, when it was
+erected by the Romans. Twelve years later, Marius,
+king of the Britons, extended the wall. The Britons
+were defeated under it in 607, and after a lapse of
+three centuries, it was rebuilt by the daughter of
+Alfred the Great. It has a long and eventful history,
+and the old Cathedral whose edge it skirts, is one of
+the largest and most ancient in England. The
+sculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn
+smooth by the hand of time. The stained glass
+windows are marvels of art, the groined arches,
+dreamy cloisters, and antique carving upon seats
+and pews fill one with admiration mingled with
+awe. There are many fine mosaics here, and specimens
+of wood from the Holy Land. Costly gems
+adorn the choir; here too is a Bible whose cover is
+inlaid with precious stones. The massive Gothic
+pillars are still in a perfect state of preservation, as
+well as the numerous ancient monuments and relics
+of the past. The vast size of the Cathedral is a perpetual
+source of wonder to the stranger, who,
+wandering among its curious historic mementos,
+gazing upon its storied nave, transepts and choir,
+and upon the Bible scenes pictured in these glorious
+windows, feels that he has been transported by
+some magician&rsquo;s hand into an age long buried in the
+past. The Cathedral is said to have been founded in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page38" id="page38"></a>38</span>
+the year 200. Its height within, from floor to the
+lofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows is
+from sixty to one hundred feet. The Church of St.
+John the Baptist rivals the Cathedral in antiquity,
+but it is now a picturesque ruin covered with moss
+and ivy.</p>
+
+<p>Chester itself contains many antiquities that are to
+be found nowhere else in the world. The houses,
+dating back to 1500, or even earlier, are of every degree
+of shade and color, with little windows with
+diamond-shaped panes, and gable ends facing the
+streets whose sidewalks are on a level with the second
+stories. Everything here seems to belong to
+the past, excepting the fine, modern station, ten
+hundred and fifty feet long, with its projecting iron
+roofed wings for the protection of vehicles waiting
+for passengers from the trains. This station is one
+of the longest in England. The famous Chester
+Rows are public passages running through the second
+stories of the houses facing the four principal
+streets. These arcades are reached by flights of
+steps at the corners of the streets, and contain some
+very attractive shops. The old timber-built houses
+of Chester with their curious inscriptions are all
+preserved in their original ancient style, and nowhere
+in England can the artist or photographer find
+a more interesting spot, or one richer in ancient
+and mediæval relics than this little town.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page39" id="page39"></a>39</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:466px" src="images/img042.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Wayside Inn, New Brighton.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 31.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page40" id="page40"></a>40</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page41" id="page41"></a>41</span></p>
+
+<p>The quaint old taverns carry one back, back, to
+the life of the past. Drop in at the Bear &amp; Billet
+Inn some day, or The Falcon Inn, and yield yourself
+up to the charming mediæval atmosphere of the
+place. Seat yourself at the little table beside the
+window, and look out upon the same scene which
+your English ancestors looked upon more than two
+hundred years ago. The landlord&rsquo;s wife will bring
+you a foaming tankard of ale. It is the same tankard
+from which your forefathers quenched their thirst,
+and if you are of a contented, philosophical temperament,
+you will experience the same comfort and
+enjoyment as they, in this truly English beverage.
+If you are not fired with enthusiasm by this old-time
+picture, wend your way to the banks of the River
+Dee, where you may paint the greens in every variety
+of light and shade, with one of the picturesque
+old farmhouses which abound here in the foreground,
+and some &ldquo;blooded&rdquo; cattle resting quietly
+beneath the wide-spreading branches of the trees.
+Or here is the single wide arch of Grosvenor Bridge
+crossing the river, with a span of two hundred feet.
+This is one of the largest stone arches in Europe.
+Or here is a bit of the old wall skirting the water,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page42" id="page42"></a>42</span>
+and the charming picture of the Old Bridge, which
+dates back to the thirteenth century; and here too
+are the vast mills of the Dee, associated with the
+history and traditions of eight hundred years. With
+its surrounding country, and the succession of lovely
+gardens bordering the Dee, surely Chester is one of
+the choice spots in England for the lover of the
+quaint and beautiful. Within the pretty residences
+of the suburbs may be found all the comforts and
+recreations of a happy prosperous family life, united
+with genuine English hospitality, and a cordial welcome
+for the stranger. The owner of one of these
+charming homes orders up his cart, and insists upon
+taking us for a drive through this delightful locality,
+and for miles and miles our hearts and eyes are captivated
+by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits of
+scenery. We wind up with a cup of good hot tea,
+thinly cut buttered bread, and other dainties.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page43" id="page43"></a>43</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img046.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 31.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page44" id="page44"></a>44</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page45" id="page45"></a>45</span></p>
+
+<p>A decided change from the ancient and mediæval
+associations of Chester is the prosperous city of
+Leamington, a watering-place situated on the Leam
+River, a tributary of the Avon. The natural mineral
+springs discovered here in 1797 have proved the
+source of great benefit to this town, as the springs
+are highly recommended by physicians, and many
+invalids resort thither. But as health is not our object
+in coming, we do not follow the popular custom,
+but proceeding to the banks of the River Leam, engage
+one of the many small boats which may be
+hired, and drift leisurely down the stream with the
+current, revelling in the wealth of beauty which
+surrounds us. Hundreds of lovely nooks disclose
+themselves to our eager eyes&mdash;typical English scenes&mdash;and
+as we float along life assumes an ideal aspect
+under the witchery of this picturesque river. Here
+are old farmhouses in the foreground, with their
+richly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds
+of acres, and here are velvet lawns, with their dainty
+high-bred air, surrounding noble homes, stately and
+silent. Now a group of merry children dance about
+the water side, and a great Newfoundland dog
+dashes wildly into the stream after a ball or stick,
+swimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize.
+How the children scream and run away as he rushes
+joyously up to them, shaking the spray over their
+dresses and into their faces. Oh fair River Leam!
+these lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon
+your waters love you, and we too, strangers from
+a foreign shore, here yield our tribute of loving
+praise for the happy hours we owe to you, lingering
+often, reluctant to leave some especially charming
+spot where the branches of the trees overhang
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page46" id="page46"></a>46</span>
+the stream, and touch our faces with soft caressing
+fingers.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Nature was here so lavish of her store,</p>
+<p class="i05">That she bestowed until she had no more.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>This scene too fades as we board one of the many
+tram-cars, and in a few moments are carried to the
+very gateway of the world-renowned Warwick
+Castle, which occupies a commanding position,
+overlooking the Avon. This ancient pile is artistically
+poised, and presents grand effects of color,
+light and shade. Upon the payment of a shilling
+for each person, the massive iron doors which for
+centuries have guarded this stately and historic
+stronghold, open as if by magic, and a passageway
+cut through the solid rock leads us to an open space,
+where we have a fine view of the magnificent round
+towers and embattled walls. A visit of two hours
+gives us opportunity to climb to the top of the ancient
+towers which for ages have loomed up as
+monuments of power and defiance in the face of the
+enemy. We are impressed with the vast size of
+the castle. The view from the towers and the
+windows is beautiful and romantic. In the spacious
+courtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft
+velvety turf, and the hand of time has colored
+towers and battlements a rich brown hue that
+blends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and
+out wherever it can find a place.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page47" id="page47"></a>47</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:467px" src="images/img050.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Suburban residence.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 42.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page48" id="page48"></a>48</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page49" id="page49"></a>49</span></p>
+
+<p>The gardens slope down to the Avon, from
+whose banks there is a picturesque view of the
+river front of the castle, and here as well as in
+the park we see some fine old cedars of Lebanon,
+brought from the East by the Warwick
+Crusaders. In the main castle we enter a number
+of the apartments which are furnished in a style
+of regal splendor. The Great Entrance Hall, sixty
+two feet long and forty wide, is rich in dark old
+oak wainscoting, and curious ancient armor; and
+shields and coronets of the earls of many generations,
+as well as the &ldquo;Bear and Ragged Staff,&rdquo; of Robert
+Dudley&rsquo;s crest are carved upon its Gothic ceiling.
+The Gilt Drawing-room contains a rare collection of
+the masterpieces of great artists. This room is so
+called from the richly gilded panels which cover its
+walls and ceiling. In the Cedar Drawing-room are
+wonderful antique vases, furniture and other curios,
+which would well repay a much longer inspection
+than we can give them. But all the rooms in this
+magnificent old feudal castle are filled with the finest
+specimens of works of ancient art in every line.
+The paintings alone fill us with despair, for they
+line the walls in close succession, and the artists&rsquo;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page50" id="page50"></a>50</span>
+names are Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke,
+Sir Peter Lely, Guido, Andrea del Sarto, and many
+others of like celebrity. What an opportunity for
+those who have the time to linger in this atmosphere
+of lofty genius!</p>
+
+<p>Many beautiful old shade trees surround the
+castle, and the restful silence inspires one with the
+desire to be alone and yield himself up to the spirit
+of the place, hallowed by such wealth of associations
+and the presence of immortal art.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance from the castle, and outside the
+Warwick enclosure, stands an old mill upon the
+bank of the Avon. This ancient and picturesque
+structure was originally built for the purpose of
+grinding wheat, but the all-observing eye of the
+artist quickly discovered in it a mission of a higher
+order, and for years it has posed as the central figure
+in the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush
+of the painter or the camera of the photographer.</p>
+
+<p>Taking a drag and driving through Kenilworth,
+Coventry and Stoneleigh, will give one delightful
+views of some of the most beautiful portions of
+England. The roads are macadamized, and in good
+condition. This is a fine farming country, and here
+we see the typical English farmhouses, built of
+brick and stone, surrounded by well-cultivated fields,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page51" id="page51"></a>51</span>
+stretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape.
+The fields are separated by green hedges, and the
+whole scene is one that can hardly be surpassed
+throughout &ldquo;Merrie England.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>From these lovely quiet homes, we pass through
+roads bordered with wild flowers to the ruins of
+one of the most magnificent castles in Great Britain.
+It is hardly necessary to say that Kenilworth is inseparably
+associated with Sir Walter Scott, and his
+graphic descriptions of the scenes and events that
+have taken place here in the days of its glory. This
+castle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial
+ruins in England, dates back to about 1120 <span class="scs">A. D.</span> It
+covered an area of seven acres, but is now a mass
+of ivy-covered ruins, from which one can form but
+a faint idea of its appearance in the height of its
+prosperity. Yet the hand of nature has invested it
+with another kind of beauty, and in place of the
+pomp and majesty of power, the brilliant pageants
+of the court of Queen Elizabeth, we behold the
+clinging robe of ivy, the daylight illuminating the
+gallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax
+torches which flashed their lights upon the royal cavalcade,
+and a little country road where once a stately
+avenue led to the tower, and listened to the court
+secrets, lovers&rsquo; vows and merry badinage uttered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page52" id="page52"></a>52</span>
+within its shades. The castle has passed through
+many changes, and experienced stormy days as
+well as those of prosperity and luxury, but the pen
+of Scott has immortalized it on the summit of its
+glory, and though the ages may cast their blight
+upon its visible form, it will ever live in the soul of
+the artist, the poet, the lover of beauty, as a scene
+of splendor, of sorrowful tragedy, of magnificent
+design.</p>
+
+<p>But a few steps beyond the Kenilworth grounds
+is an old English inn&mdash;The King&rsquo;s Arms. It is so
+picturesque and romantic-looking, that I feel like rechristening
+it: &ldquo;The Entire Royal Family.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Let us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-time
+atmosphere and many curious attractions.
+Here the artist is in his element, for on every side
+are quaint corners, cozy nooks, and relics for which
+the lover of the antique would give a fortune;
+while outside the windows the beautiful English
+landscape beams upon one with inviting smiles.
+The landlady, with her cheerful bustling air and
+broad accent, imparts a pleasant thrill of anticipation,
+which is more than realized upon the appearance
+of the savory chops,&mdash;grown on the neighboring
+hillside, whose rich green pasturage is a
+guarantee for the flavor and quality of the meat,&mdash;the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page53" id="page53"></a>53</span>
+delicious hot cakes, and the unfailing tankard,
+or if one prefers it, the cup of fragrant tea. And so
+we sit and refresh the inner man, while the soul
+revels in the world of beauty around us, and picture
+after picture passes before the mental vision, connecting
+these scenes with famous historic characters,
+or wonderful events of legendary lore. So
+lovely are these views, that one could gaze for
+hours, and never weary of the &ldquo;living jewels
+dropp&rsquo;d unstained from heaven,&rdquo; for this picturesque
+country possesses a peculiar freshness, as
+though free from the touch of care and the hand of
+time, like the fair maiden who has received from the
+fountain of youth the gift of eternal life and beauty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page54" id="page54"></a>54</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page55" id="page55"></a>55</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Lights and Shadows
+of London Life.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page57" id="page57"></a>57</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><b><i>Lights and Shadows of London Life.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>The Shadow Side&mdash;The Slums&mdash;The City by Night&mdash;Vice and
+Misery&mdash;&ldquo;Chinese Johnson&rsquo;s&rdquo; Opium Den&mdash;The &ldquo;Bunco&rdquo;
+Man&mdash;An English Guard&mdash;&ldquo;The Grand Old Man&rdquo;&mdash;Caution
+to Tourists&mdash;Great Cities by Night&mdash;The Seven Dials&mdash;Derby
+Day&mdash;The Tally-Ho&mdash;Old Robin Hood Inn&mdash;Epsom Hill&mdash;The
+Races&mdash;Exciting Scenes&mdash;Side Shows&mdash;The Close of the
+Day.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:72px; height:90px" src="images/img_a.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">S nature derives much of its charm from the
+intermingling of light and shade, so in
+life there are many scenes of sharp contrast,
+and we often have a deeper appreciation
+of its beauties after beholding the reverse
+side of the picture. Some one has said: &ldquo;In actions
+of life, who seeth not the filthiness of evil,
+wanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty of
+virtue.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>What better opportunity of studying this phase
+of life can there be, than in the faces of those whose
+existence is passed amid associations of suffering,
+want and crime; who not only witness, but experience
+all these in their different shades and degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Take with me a walk through the worst portions
+of the greatest metropolis in the world, and observe
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page58" id="page58"></a>58</span>
+a few of the pictures in the localities where humanity
+is born and nourished in misery, filth and sin.
+Guarded by three of England&rsquo;s best paid detectives,
+I follow closely in their footsteps, not daring to
+speak lest I rouse in his lair the slumbering lion of
+passion and revenge. From street to street we
+pass, viewing the wretched <span class="correction" title="amended from temements">tenements</span>tenements, and more
+wretched inmates huddling together over a faint
+spark of fire, or vainly trying to impart to their
+little ones some of the natural warmth which still
+exists in their bodies, in spite of hunger, cold and
+fatigue. The crumbs from the tables of the rich
+would be a lavish feast to these poor creatures.
+Clean water is as great a stranger to their stomachs
+as to their bodies; loathsome rags cover their emaciated
+forms, and the destroyer drink has left his
+signet upon their countenances. A little farther on
+is the vile dance house into which the inhabitants
+of this neighborhood crawl for the lowest stage of
+their degradation. A motley throng is assembled
+here, and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill
+laughter and drunken oaths.</p>
+
+<p>I am guarded so carefully that many times I am
+hurried away from a scene more quickly than I
+wish, the officers fearing that our presence may
+create a disturbance among these reckless characters.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page59" id="page59"></a>59</span>
+We enter a low saloon in a cellar dimly
+lighted by an old oil lamp: the atmosphere is gruesome,
+and one of the detectives warns me that the
+men who frequent this haunt are desperate fellows
+who would not hesitate to stab me for the sake of
+my clothing. Old and grizzled habitués line reeking
+walls, with depravity written upon every countenance,
+and I fully realize that my life would not
+be worth a moment&rsquo;s purchase here should my attendants
+forsake me.</p>
+
+<p>Now we are in a long narrow alley, as black as
+Erebus, which gives one the feeling of being in a
+subterranean passage upon some mysterious mission.
+In a few minutes a light appears ahead&mdash;a
+dull glimmering bluish light, like that which is
+supposed to hover above graveyards&mdash;and we
+pause in front of a small frame house of two
+stories. A knock upon the door brings to the
+threshold a little dried up, wizened Chinaman, made
+feeble by long dissipation, who in his broken language
+makes us welcome. The place is &ldquo;Chinese
+Johnson&rsquo;s&rdquo; opium den. How can I describe the
+scene that is before me? In this room are many
+small dirty cots filled with unconscious human beings,
+willing victims of the pernicious drug&mdash;a
+loathsome spectacle&mdash;and here on a small couch
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page60" id="page60"></a>60</span>
+sits the proprietor of the establishment. This is
+his throne of state, and here he can smoke with
+impunity the deadly drug, which has no perceptible
+effect upon his depraved body. We are glad to
+end this experience and banish from our minds the
+unattractive picture of the Chinaman in his elysian
+fields.</p>
+
+<p>We are not the only ones who have the privilege
+of viewing these scenes. Any one who desires and
+possesses the necessary courage may invade the
+haunts and dens of the lower world, and be profited
+by the lessons here learned; but he must exercise
+great caution. The studies are not only for
+the brush and camera: they are food for the
+thoughtful mind which can apply the wisdom thus
+gained, and seek in these conditions for the solution
+of knotty problems. One can better appreciate,
+by reason of this contrast, the blessings of his
+own life; of purity, honesty and contentment as
+opposed to ignorance, poverty and vice.</p>
+
+<p>This evening, fatigued in mind and body by my
+experience in the slums of London, I enter the Holborn
+Restaurant, hoping to enjoy a good dinner,
+and at the same time be entertained by the delightful
+music of skilled musicians. I seat myself at a
+table on the second floor, and supposing myself
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page61" id="page61"></a>61</span>
+free from intrusion, yield myself up to the charming
+melody, when a good-looking and well-dressed
+man approaches, and with many apologies asks if
+the seat opposite me is engaged. I assure him that
+I do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of
+the Holborn, and that I can speak only of the chair
+upon which I am sitting. Upon this he takes the
+opposite place and gives to the waiter an order for
+quite an extravagant supply of the dainties enumerated
+on the bill of fare. During the time intervening
+between the giving of the order and its delivery,
+no conversation passes between us, but I have an
+unpleasant consciousness of his presence, and occasionally
+feel his eyes resting upon me. The appearance
+of the epicurean repast seems to impart the
+confidence he requires, and he addresses me with
+the remark that I must pardon him for staring at me
+so impolitely, but he is sure he has met me before.
+Am I not an American? to which I assent. &ldquo;Are
+you a New Yorker?&rdquo; is the next interrogation from
+this experienced catechiser. He can readily perceive
+that I am an American by my foreign accent.</p>
+
+<p>To the last question I also respond in the affirmative,
+and may heaven forgive the falsehood. &ldquo;Ah,&rdquo;
+he says, &ldquo;do you frequent the races at Sheepshead
+Bay?&rdquo; &ldquo;Yes, generally,&rdquo; I reply. (I have never
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page62" id="page62"></a>62</span>
+seen the place.) &ldquo;It is there, then, that I have met
+you. Were you not there last summer?&rdquo; &ldquo;Many
+times.&rdquo; (Another breach of truth.) &ldquo;Will you
+kindly give me your name?&rdquo; follows as a matter of
+course. I reach my hand into my pocket and draw
+out a card upon which is engraved simply my name,
+and extending it toward him, remark: &ldquo;My name
+is Charles M. Taylor, Jr., and I am associated with
+Mr. &mdash;&mdash;, one of the chief detectives at Scotland
+Yard. My present mission is to look up some
+&rsquo;Bunco&rsquo; men from New York who have headquarters
+in London. Here is my card.&rdquo; But the
+stranger does not take the card. He glances hastily
+at his watch, and rising hurriedly, says: &ldquo;It is nine
+o&rsquo;clock. I did not know it was so late. I must be
+off, as I have an important engagement.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>As he pushes back his chair, I quickly call a
+waiter, and tell him to collect the money for this
+gentleman&rsquo;s order, as I do not wish to be held responsible
+for it. He pays for the meal which he
+has not touched, and in his haste to depart forgets
+his manners, for he does not wish me &ldquo;good-night.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Did he think I was a tender lamb? This hurts
+my pride somewhat. I am sorry, however, that I
+was obliged to deceive him so.</p>
+
+<p>One evening while discussing matters in general
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page63" id="page63"></a>63</span>
+with an English friend, born and bred in the city of
+London, we touch upon the order and unswerving
+obedience of the soldiers, policemen and good citizens
+who dwell under the dominion of her gracious
+Majesty, the Queen, in the great metropolis; and
+my friend cites as an example, the guards who
+patrol nightly the White Hall Horse Guards Barracks,
+as adhering so strictly to their line of march
+that they will not turn out of their way one inch for
+any person or obstacle in their direct course. I accept
+the wager of a dinner at the Holborn to be
+given by me if I do not succeed in inducing one of
+these guards to move out of his line of march.
+Selecting a dark night for the one in which to make
+good my assertion, I approach the barracks, and
+espy the guard with bayonet at &ldquo;Carry arms,&rdquo;
+making a &ldquo;bee line&rdquo; toward me. I walk in his
+direction with head bent low, and come so close
+that there would be a collision were it not for the
+stern and firmly-uttered &ldquo;Halt&rdquo; that comes from
+his lips. I halt face to face with this noble specimen
+of humanity, standing fully six feet one in his boots,
+and as straight as &ldquo;Jack&rsquo;s bean pole.&rdquo; &ldquo;Sir,&rdquo; I
+say, &ldquo;you are in my way, will you please move
+out?&rdquo; He makes no response. &ldquo;Will you please
+step aside and allow me to pass?&rdquo; No response.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page64" id="page64"></a>64</span>
+&ldquo;Come, my good fellow,&rdquo; I continue in persuasive
+tones, &ldquo;I have made a wager that you will move
+out of line for me, and if you do I will share the bet
+with you.&rdquo; No reply. But I see in the immovable
+countenance an inflexible determination to do his
+duty which all the bribes in Christendom will not
+be able to change. I feel that death only can prevent
+his obedience to orders. &ldquo;Well,&rdquo; I conclude,
+&ldquo;you are a good fellow, and the power you serve,
+be it queen, emperor, or president, is to be envied
+for having such a faithful subject. I respect your
+obedience to law and order. Good-night.&rdquo; No
+response. It is needless to say that I pay the forfeit
+willingly, and my friend and I enjoy a good dinner
+at the Holborn.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page65" id="page65"></a>65</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:461px; height:700px" src="images/img068.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;White Hall Horse Guards&rsquo; Barracks.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 63.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page66" id="page66"></a>66</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page67" id="page67"></a>67</span></p>
+
+<p>Strolling one morning about London, with nothing
+better to do than to take in &ldquo;odd bits&rdquo; that come
+in my way, I observe a large crowd of citizens assembled
+opposite the entrance to Parliament, and
+going up to a policeman, I ask what has happened,
+or is about to happen? But the officer looks perfectly
+blank, and can give me no information whatever. I
+bethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules
+governing information sought from guards, cab-drivers,
+and omnibus whips in the city of London,
+and straightway putting my hand in my pocket, I
+produce several pennies which I give him for a mug
+of &ldquo;Half and Half.&rdquo; A change comes over his
+countenance, his vanished senses quickly return,
+and with a courteous smile he remarks that Gladstone
+is expected to appear in Parliament for the
+first time after an illness of some weeks. And this
+obliging &ldquo;cop&rdquo; not only gives me the desired information,
+but escorts me to a good position in the
+crowd, just in time to behold the &ldquo;Grand Old
+Man,&rdquo; who, holding his hat in his hand, bows smilingly
+in response to the enthusiastic greetings which
+come from every side. He walks briskly along, and
+as he comes close to me, moved by an irresistible
+impulse, I step out from the throng, and extend my
+hand, saying: &ldquo;I am an American, who wishes to
+shake the hand of the man who has so bravely
+fought a hard battle.&rdquo; The proud old face looks
+pleasantly into mine, his hand meets mine with a
+cordial grasp, and replying that he is glad to meet
+an American, Gladstone passes on to the scene of
+his many conflicts and victories.</p>
+
+<p>The tourist who is bent on seeing the various
+sections of a great city, and especially those localities
+which are best observed by night, should be very
+cautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty:
+such for example as the old Seven Dials of London,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page68" id="page68"></a>68</span>
+as it used to be. I have had many unpleasant and
+untold encounters, and been placed in situations,
+not only trying, but extremely dangerous, while attempting
+to explore these hidden regions unattended
+and alone. Experience has taught me that it is best
+to go &ldquo;well heeled,&rdquo; that is accompanied by the
+best informed and most expert detectives, as what
+they may charge for their services is cheap in comparison
+with a mutilated head or body. One&rsquo;s own
+ready wit and shrewdness are all very well in some
+cases, but there are times when these fail, and the
+man at the other end, drunken, brutal, and excited,
+will make you wish you had &ldquo;let sleeping dogs lie.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>It is well for travellers and others to visit the slums
+of large cities by night. Here is food for comparison
+and reflection, and from these may perhaps arise a
+different feeling from that with which we are accustomed
+to regard the poor wretches who have
+lacked the advantages of birth, education and environment.</p>
+
+<p>In company with four detectives, I visited the
+&ldquo;Seven Dials&rdquo; of London, and the experience of
+those nights spent in scenes of horror, vice and
+degradation would fill volumes. Picture to yourself
+a small narrow street, with low wooden houses of
+two stories on either side. There are dim glimmering
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page69" id="page69"></a>69</span>
+lights at intervals of about fifty feet. The
+hour is two o&rsquo;clock in the morning, as one tourist
+attended by four officers wends his way through an
+atmosphere filled with dread and horror. We enter
+some of the houses which present scenes of indescribable
+squalor and confusion. A perfect bedlam
+of tongues reigns here. Men and women hurl
+abusive epithets at each other, from windows and
+doors, as well as from one end of the street to the
+other. The entire neighborhood enters into the
+quarrel, and the transition from words to blows is
+sudden and fierce. The street is filled in an instant
+with ragged, and almost naked beings, whom one
+can hardly call human, and the battle which ensues
+with clubs, knives and fists is beyond imagination.
+Cut heads, broken limbs, bruised bodies, bleeding
+countenances appear on every side, and it is quite
+evident that many are scarred for life. The sight is
+loathsome, yet it makes one&rsquo;s heart ache. Such
+scenes are of frequent occurrence in the slums of
+nearly every large city, where drink and depravity
+count their victims by thousands. In these vile
+abodes are the haunts of the thief, the smuggler, the
+fallen, and the pictures once seen, are indelibly impressed
+on the memory, with the long train of reflections
+awakened by such sights, and the inevitable
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page70" id="page70"></a>70</span>
+query: Why is not something done to render such
+scenes impossible in this age of civilization?</p>
+
+<p>At last the great Derby Day has arrived, and the
+whole atmosphere is filled with the importance of
+the occasion. The sprinkling rain does not dampen
+the ardor and enthusiasm of the true Englishman,
+for I am told that the races have never been postponed
+on account of the weather. After breakfast
+we stroll to the street corner where stands our
+tally-ho in readiness for the day&rsquo;s excursion. Having
+engaged our seats the previous day, we take our
+places and start forth, drawn by four spirited horses
+under the guidance of an experienced driver. The
+whip is cracked, the horn sends forth its musical
+signal, and away we go amid the cheers and applause
+of numerous spectators. Swiftly we roll
+over the well paved streets, and the high spirits of
+the company, accompanied by the frequent winding
+of the horn, render the ride extremely pleasant.
+The race-course is about eighteen miles out of
+London, and our road is through a beautiful portion
+of the country. Every lane and avenue is thronged
+with people, walking, driving, or on bicycles, but
+all going to the Derby. We stop for refreshment
+at the old Robin Hood Inn, an ancient hostelry, established,
+we are told, in 1409. Here we have a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page71" id="page71"></a>71</span>
+beverage, supposed to be soda water or milk, but
+which is in truth a stronger concoction, to brace us
+for the mental and physical strain of this exciting
+day. &ldquo;All aboard,&rdquo; cries the coachman, and there
+is a general scramble for places. At last we are all
+seated, and proceed on our way, changing horses
+when half the distance is covered.</p>
+
+<p>We take the main thoroughfare within three miles
+of the Epsom grounds, and now a wonderful sight
+bursts upon us. Thousands of pedestrians of both
+sexes and every age are flocking toward the race
+course: hundreds of carriages, vans, dog carts, tally-hos,
+vehicles of every description throng the road.
+Enormous trains are constantly arriving, bearing
+their thousands to the Downs, now covered with a
+vast moving mass. London empties itself on this
+all-important day, and proceeds to Epsom by every
+possible means of locomotion. The grand stand, a
+handsome and commodious structure, is quickly
+filled to overflowing. There are numerous other
+stands. The appearance of the Downs, with the
+countless booths and the waving multitude which
+cover it as far as the eye can reach, is a spectacle that
+cannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic.
+No other event in England can concentrate such an
+amount of interest and excitement as is found on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page72" id="page72"></a>72</span>
+the scene of the Derby. Every one is in high spirits:
+young and old, men, women and children all seem
+merry and happy, laughing, singing, dancing along
+on this one great day of the year. Behold the party
+on our right. A large wagon contains ten or more
+men and women, who are singing and laughing
+in great glee, and who invite us to join them. Here
+a group of a half dozen men with musical instruments
+at their sides are singing to their own accompaniment.
+The dust rises in clouds, and we are
+covered from head to foot with it as with a garment:
+we all wear veils pinned around our heads to protect
+our eyes.</p>
+
+<p>At last we reach Epsom Hill, and here we
+pay two guineas for the admission of our party
+and conveyance. We are also entitled to a place
+anywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-course.
+Our horses are picketed after being taken
+from the wagon, and our two attendants spread before
+us a most sumptuous repast. Coaches of every
+kind are so thickly jumbled together that for a vast
+distance the hill seems covered with a coat of dark
+paint.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page73" id="page73"></a>73</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img076.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;A short run of an hour.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 83.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page74" id="page74"></a>74</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page75" id="page75"></a>75</span></p>
+
+<p>Thousands and thousands of men, women and
+children are assembled upon this hillside, while
+tens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the
+race-course. It is estimated that no less than from
+one hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty
+thousand persons are massed together at these races.</p>
+
+<p>The race-course is not like those in the United
+States, but is a sodded strip extending about half
+a mile in a straight line. The ringing of a bell announces
+the commencement of the races, and the
+mass of humanity surges to and fro in great excitement.
+Now is the book-maker&rsquo;s time, and he
+passes hither and thither, shouting his offers to the
+enthusiastic multitude, who accept or reject his
+propositions with eagerness or scorn, corresponding
+with their knowledge or ignorance of the horses
+ventured. Gambling and betting are at their
+height: vast sums of money change hands at the
+conclusion of the races, and many inexperienced
+as well as reckless ones leave the field at night
+ruined men. Meanwhile the confusion is indescribable.</p>
+
+<p>But these sounds drop away, and silence prevails
+as five slender well-shaped racers appear, ridden by
+jockeys, but when the wild mad race begins in
+which each endeavors to outdo the others, the excitement
+and tumult know no bounds: shouts,
+groans, cheers fill the air, and every eye is strained
+along the course: one could readily believe that a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page76" id="page76"></a>76</span>
+whole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill
+the air with their hoarse discordant sounds.</p>
+
+<p>As the winning horse reaches the goal, a placard
+of large dimensions, on which his number is conspicuously
+painted, is raised within full view of the
+swaying crowd. The shouts and cheers burst forth
+afresh, and jubilee and pandemonium mingle their
+extremes in a scene to be imagined only by those
+who have experienced it.</p>
+
+<p>As the first excitement cools, bets are paid, and
+accounts squared. Again the bell rings: another
+race, and a repetition of the previous scene, and so
+it continues for several hours.</p>
+
+<p>But the racing is not the sole attraction, as is
+evidenced by the crowds surrounding the refreshment
+booths and side tents, where for a small fee
+one may see the Fat Woman, the Skeleton Man, or
+the Double-Headed Boy; or listen to the colored
+minstrels who charm the soul with plantation
+melodies; or have his fortune told in the gypsy
+tent by a dark-eyed maid in gorgeous attire, who
+will tell of a wonderful future which is &ldquo;sure to
+come true.&rdquo; Or you may have your photograph
+taken on the spot, and finished while you wait.
+Here is a phonograph representing a variety entertainment,
+and the little group around it are laughing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page77" id="page77"></a>77</span>
+heartily at the jokes of the &ldquo;funny man,&rdquo; the ventriloquist,
+and the story-teller. Here are fine bands
+of musicians, and dozens of oddities, and curious
+tricksters: and the whole forms one grand panorama
+of human life, the counterpart of which is to be seen
+nowhere else in the world.</p>
+
+<p>At five o&rsquo;clock, the horses are harnessed to our
+tally-ho, and with smiling but dusty and sunburned
+faces we bid farewell to the scene of gayety and
+start for home. Every road and byway in the surrounding
+country is swarming with people, and the
+scale of pleasure, disappointment, grief, hilarity and
+fatigue is reflected in the countenances of riders and
+pedestrians. Here is a group, overheated, weary,
+dejected, trudging slowly along the way, interchanging
+scarcely a word with each other: here a
+merry party, filled with life, singing, laughing, recounting
+the events of the day, as they wander on,
+arm in arm. Now a little lame boy smiles in our
+faces from the tiny cart which his sister pushes
+cheerily forward, and now a gay belle dashes by in
+a carriage drawn by fast horses, holding the ribbons
+and whip in correct style, while her companion
+leans back, indolently enjoying the situation.</p>
+
+<p>The countenances of the men tell various tales, as
+the triumphs or failures of the day are expressed in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page78" id="page78"></a>78</span>
+their faces. Some few wear a stolid, impassive
+air, while others talk, talk, talk, as though they
+have never had an opportunity till now. As we
+ride along amid the stupendous throngs, many
+thoughts are aroused, and many a picture is put
+away in the recesses of memory to be brought forth
+and pondered over on a future day.</p>
+
+<p>With the shades of night the curtain falls upon a
+scene of such magnitude that the brain is weary of
+contemplating it, and is glad to find temporary forgetfulness
+in &ldquo;tired nature&rsquo;s sweet restorer.&rdquo; And
+so ends the great Derby Day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page79" id="page79"></a>79</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img082.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The chalky cliffs of Dover.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 83.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page80" id="page80"></a>80</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page81" id="page81"></a>81</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Scenes in the Gay Capital.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page82" id="page82"></a>82</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page83" id="page83"></a>83</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Scenes in the Gay Capital.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Dover to Calais&mdash;Paris&mdash;The Gay Capital by Night&mdash;Boulevards&mdash;Life
+in the Streets&mdash;Champs Élysées&mdash;Place de la Concorde&mdash;Arc
+d&rsquo;Etoile&mdash;Place Vendome&mdash;Louvre&mdash;Opera House&mdash;Palais
+Royal&mdash;Church of the Invalides&mdash;Versailles&mdash;Notre
+Dame&mdash;Jardin Mabille&mdash;The Madeleine&mdash;The Pantheon&mdash;The
+Banks of the Seine&mdash;French Funeral Ceremonies&mdash;La
+Morgue&mdash;Pere Lachaise.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 140px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:92px; height:90px" src="images/img_w.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">E travel from London to Dover by train,
+thence by steamer to Calais. The chalky
+cliffs of Dover with their high precipitous
+sides are a pleasant and restful farewell
+picture of the shores of old England. A short run
+of an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different
+from those of the past few weeks that we feel that
+the magician&rsquo;s wand has again been exercised and
+the &ldquo;Presto, change,&rdquo; has transported us to a region
+of maliciously disposed genii, who will not understand
+us, or allow us to comprehend their mysterious
+utterances; and the transformation scene is complete
+as we enter Paris, the home of the light, the gay,
+the fantastic.</p>
+
+<p>Let the lover of the bright, the gay, the jovial,
+visit the broad boulevards of Paris by night, especially
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page84" id="page84"></a>84</span>
+the Avenue des Champs Élysées, which
+seems to be the favorite promenade of the populace.
+Upon both sides are groves of trees, brilliantly illuminated
+by myriads of colored lights, and here amid
+these bowers is to be found every variety of entertainment
+for the people. Games of chance are
+played in the gay booths, Punch and Judy shows
+attract crowds of children, wonderful feats of horsemanship
+are performed, singers in aërial costumes
+draw many to the Cafés Chantants, and the lights
+of innumerable cabs and carriages flit to and fro in
+every direction like will-o&rsquo;-the-wisps. Here is fine
+military music, as well as exhibitions of skillful playing
+on almost every known instrument.</p>
+
+<p>The wide boulevards are long, straight and marvels
+of beauty, with their lovely gardens, handsome
+houses, and fine shops.</p>
+
+<p>There are strong contrasts in the lives of those
+one sees upon these streets under the gaslight. I
+think Dante&rsquo;s three realms are pretty clearly represented
+along the avenues of Paris, beneath the
+starry dome of heaven, and within these gayly decorated
+booths and cafés. Here may be seen the
+high and the low, the rich and the poor, the grave
+and the gay, the innocent and the hardened in
+guilt, the adventurer and his unsuspecting victim.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page85" id="page85"></a>85</span>
+And this heterogeneous throng, this careless pleasure-loving
+crowd, may be seen drifting from one
+point to another till the cock crows the warning of
+approaching dawn. The streets of Paris by night
+afford abundant material for the artist, the photographer,
+the poet, author and clergyman; as well
+as the adventurer. Here indeed, if anywhere, one
+may</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+              <p class="i5">&ldquo;read the human heart,</p>
+  <p class="i05">Its strange, mysterious depths explore.</p>
+<p>What tongue could tell, or pen impart</p>
+  <p class="i05">The riches of its hidden lore?&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful
+square in Paris. From its centre are magnificent
+views of the grand boulevards and many of the
+handsome public buildings, and here are the great
+bronze fountains marking the historic spot upon
+which stood the guillotine during the French Revolution.
+The lovely walks, the sparkling waters,
+and the statues and monuments, the obelisk, the
+merry strollers, and picturesque tableaux seen at
+every turn are positively enchanting. Up the broad
+vista of the Champs Élysées the eye rests upon the
+wonderful Arc d&rsquo;Etoile, one of the most conspicuous
+monuments in Paris. It stands in the Place
+d&rsquo;Etoile, one of the most fashionable sections of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page86" id="page86"></a>86</span>
+city, and is surrounded by elegant residences and
+pleasant gardens. From this point radiate twelve of
+the most beautiful avenues in Paris, and from the
+summit of the arch one can see for miles down these
+grand boulevards. The magnificent arch of triumph,
+commenced in 1806 by Napoleon, was not finished
+until 1836. It is a vast structure, rising one hundred
+and fifty feet from the ground. The great
+central arch is ninety feet high and forty-five feet
+wide, and is crossed by a spacious transverse arch.
+Upon the outside of the arch are groups of splendidly
+executed statuary, representing scenes of conquest
+and allegorical figures. A spiral staircase
+leads to the platform on top, where one beholds
+this superb prospect which well deserves its world-wide
+celebrity.</p>
+
+<p>We come upon the Place Vendome through the
+Rue de la Paix, and here stands the great historic
+column, erected by the first Napoleon in commemoration
+of his victories over the Russians and Austrians.
+The monument is constructed of twelve
+hundred pieces of cannon, captured in the campaign
+of 1805. Upon the pedestal and around the
+shaft which is one hundred and thirty-five feet
+high, are bas-reliefs representing warlike implements
+and the history of the war from the departure
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page87" id="page87"></a>87</span>
+of the troops from Boulogne to its end on the
+famous field of Austerlitz.</p>
+
+<p>In front of the central entrance to the court of
+the Tuileries, in the Place du Carrousel, is the Arc
+de Triomphe du Carrousel, also erected by Napoleon
+I., in 1806, in imitation of the triumphal arch
+of Severus at Rome. In the garden of the Tuileries,
+with its old-time atmosphere, its statues, fountains
+and pillars, its groves and terraces, its historic
+ruins, its lovely flower-beds, we find a quaint and
+charming picture of a past age; yet when these
+groves and paths resound with the hum of human
+voices, when the many chairs and benches are filled
+with joyous human beings, the link between the
+past and present is established, and we are in one
+of the favorite resorts of the Parisians of to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Between the Tuileries and the Louvre is Napoleon&rsquo;s
+triumphal Arc du Carrousel&mdash;or rather between the
+courtyards of the two famous piles, which now
+form one continuous structure of magnificent architectural
+design, whose façade is adorned with Corinthian
+columns, elaborate sculptures and lofty pavilions.
+Groups of statuary, representing the most
+distinguished men of France, allegorical figures,
+floral designs and other decorations on a vast scale
+ornament these magnificent pavilions. The space
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page88" id="page88"></a>88</span>
+enclosed by the old and new Louvres and the
+Tuileries is about sixty acres.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the most beautiful of the architectural
+designs of the Louvre were completed by Napoleon
+I.,&mdash;to whom it owes much of its restoration,&mdash;from
+the drawings of Perrault, the famous author
+of Bluebeard, and the Sleeping Beauty.</p>
+
+<p>We cross a square and quickly find ourselves in
+the garden of the Palais Royal, once the Palais Cardinal,
+and the home of Richelieu. The ground
+floor of the palace is occupied by shops. The garden
+which is enclosed by the four sides of the square,
+is about a thousand feet long and nearly four hundred
+feet wide. Here is a quadruple row of elms,
+also long flower-beds, shrubbery, a fountain and
+some statues. A military band plays here in the
+afternoon, but the garden presents the gayest scene
+in the evening, when it is brilliantly illuminated,
+and the chairs under the elms, as well as the long
+walks are filled with gay pleasure-seekers.</p>
+
+<p>There is a magnificent opera house near the
+Grand Hotel, whose vast exterior is ornamented
+with beautiful statuary, medallions, gilding and
+other rich decorations.</p>
+
+<p>In the Church of the Invalides we find the tomb
+of Napoleon I., who in his will expressed a desire
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page89" id="page89"></a>89</span>
+that his ashes might rest on the banks of the Seine,
+in the midst of the French people whom he had
+loved so well. The open circular crypt is beneath
+the lofty dome, whose light falls upon it through
+colored glass, and with a wonderful effect. The
+pavement of the crypt is a mosaic, representing a
+great crown of laurels, within which are inscribed
+the names of Napoleon&rsquo;s most important victories;
+and twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests,
+surround the wreath. The sarcophagus rests upon
+the mosaic pavement within the crypt, which is
+twenty feet in depth. This is an enormous block
+of red sandstone, weighing more than sixty tons,
+which surmounts another huge block supported by
+a splendid rock of green granite. The scene is
+solemn and grandly impressive, the faint bluish
+light from above, producing an effect wholly indescribable.
+In the higher of the two cupolas, directly
+over the crypt, is a painting, with figures
+which appear of life-size even at this great distance,
+of Christ presenting to St. Louis the sword with
+which he vanquished the enemies of Christianity.</p>
+
+<p>Here is Versailles, with its &ldquo;little park of twelve
+miles in extent, and its great park of forty,&rdquo; with
+its beautiful fountains and grottos, its wonderful
+groves and flower-beds. Here are velvety lawns
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page90" id="page90"></a>90</span>
+adorned with fine statuary, green alleys, shrubberies
+and terraces, in which art and nature are so cunningly
+intermingled that they are often mistaken
+for each other. The fountains are representations
+of mythological characters, and the figures are carried
+out in their immediate surroundings. Apollo
+is in his grotto, served by seven graceful nymphs:
+while close by the steeds of the sun-god are being
+watered by tritons. Again, the basin of this god
+appears surrounded by tritons, nymphs and dolphins,
+with Neptune and Amphitrite in the centre,
+reposing in an immense shell.</p>
+
+<p>Latona, Apollo and Diana are represented by a
+fine group: the goddess is imploring Jupiter to punish
+the Lycian peasants who have refused her a
+draught of water, while all around her, in swift answer
+to her appeal, are the peasants, some partially
+transformed, others wholly changed into huge frogs
+and tortoises, condemned here to an endless penalty
+of casting jets of water toward the offended
+deity.</p>
+
+<p>Here is the famous old cathedral of Notre Dame
+de Paris with which Victor Hugo has made the
+world familiar. This grand Gothic structure was
+commenced in the twelfth century, and finished in
+the fourteenth. We view its exterior from a position
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page91" id="page91"></a>91</span>
+facing the fine west façade, with its wonderful
+rose window between the huge square towers.
+The three beautiful portals are ornamented with
+rich sculptures and imposing statuary. These
+doors form a succession of receding arches, dating
+from the early part of the thirteenth century. The
+central portion is a fine representation of the Last
+Judgment. The interior is vast and impressive with
+its vaulted arches and long rows of columns. The
+ancient stained glass of Notre Dame is represented
+by three magnificent rose windows. From the
+summit of the tower there is a glorious view of the
+Seine and its picturesque banks and bridges: indeed
+one of the loveliest views in Paris.</p>
+
+<p>Another famous and beautiful edifice is the Madeleine,
+or church of St. Mary Magdalene, which
+stands in an open space not far from the Place de
+la Concorde. It is in the form of a Grecian temple,
+surrounded by Corinthian columns, and the flight of
+twenty-eight steps by which one approaches the
+church, extends across its entire breadth. The great
+bronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the
+ten commandments. Within, the walls and floors
+are of marble richly ornamented, and the side
+chapels contain fine statues, and paintings of
+scenes from the life of Mary Magdalene. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page92" id="page92"></a>92</span>
+high altar is a magnificent marble group representing
+angels bearing Mary Magdalene into Paradise.
+This whole interior is indescribably beautiful, and
+to enter into its details one would require a volume.
+From this sublime spectacle we pass to the Church
+of St. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of
+Paris, familiarly known as the Pantheon. This
+also is a magnificent structure, with three rows of
+beautiful Corinthian columns supporting its portico.
+The handsome pediment above this portico contains
+a splendid group of statuary in high relief, representing
+France in the act of distributing garlands to
+her famous sons. The central figure is fifteen feet
+in height. The edifice is in the form of a Greek
+cross, surmounted by a majestic dome, two hundred
+and eighty feet high.</p>
+
+<p>Within the church the spacious rotunda is encircled
+by Corinthian columns which support a
+handsome gallery, and he who ascends to the
+dome will have an opportunity of observing
+closely the wonderful painting, covering a space
+of thirty-seven hundred square feet, which represents
+St. Genevieve receiving homage from
+Clovis, the first Christian monarch of France, Charlemagne,
+St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., while the
+royal martyrs of the French Revolution are pictured
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page93" id="page93"></a>93</span>
+in the heavenly regions above. In the gloomy
+vaults below we behold the tombs of a number
+of eminent men, among them those of Rousseau,
+Voltaire, and Soufflot, the architect of the Pantheon.
+In the middle of the vaults is an astonishing echo.
+The roll of a drum here would sound like the thunder
+of artillery; a board dropped upon the pavement
+is like the report of a cannon, and the reverberations
+are repeated over and over again as
+though these subterranean spirits are loth to resign
+the opportunity of speech so seldom afforded them.</p>
+
+<p>The tourist in Paris rarely fails to spend at least
+one evening in the Jardin Mabille; that is the male
+tourist, who is curious to behold life in all its
+phrases, and whom the fame of the garden attracts
+as the candle draws the moth. This is a pretty
+spot, with bowery paths, gay flowers, sparkling
+fountains, arbors and sheltered corners where lovers
+and others may enjoy tête-à-têtes undisturbed, and
+refreshments may be ordered to suit purses of all
+dimensions. There is a good orchestra on the brilliantly
+illuminated stand, and here the soubrette is in
+the height of her glory, while the better class of the
+visitors are as a rule, only spectators. There is
+some pretty gay dancing here, but order is preserved.
+On certain nights fine displays of fireworks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page94" id="page94"></a>94</span>
+attract many spectators. But the great feature
+is the dance, and the proprietors generally employ
+some girls distinguished by peculiar grace,
+beauty, or other characteristics who serve as magnets
+to the light and pleasure-loving throngs.</p>
+
+<p>But why attempt to give even a faint idea of the
+innumerable attractions of the city whose abundant
+resources bewilder the tourist whose time is limited.
+It teems with life. It is overflowing with
+beauty, passion and love. Wandering along its
+gay boulevards, whether in the bright sunshine, or
+beneath the starry vault of night, with picturesque
+mansions or gay shops on either side, or amid the
+bowery paths and bewitching avenues, the gardens,
+statues, music and laughter, one feels that he is in
+an enchanted land, where high and low, rich and
+poor share alike in the universal beauty and happiness.</p>
+
+<p>The charming banks of the Seine offer endless
+attractions. Here are many beautiful bridges, from
+which one may have picturesque views of the
+lovely gardens and palaces. These bridges are
+handsomely ornamented with statuary, bronzes,
+and reliefs, and bear interesting inscriptions. Floating
+bathing establishments are to be seen along
+these banks, and swimming schools for both sexes.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page95" id="page95"></a>95</span>
+Here are also large floats or boats capable of accommodating
+at least fifty women, who wash their
+clothing in the Seine. It is quite interesting to
+watch these robust girls and women, as they pat
+and slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles
+provided for this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>When a death occurs in a family of the middle
+class in Paris, it is customary to drape the whole
+lower story of the house with black, and place the
+body of the deceased in the front room. Holy water
+is placed at the head, also candles and a crucifix,
+and any one may enter and view the body, or
+sprinkle it with holy water, and offer a prayer for
+the soul of the departed.</p>
+
+<p>The men who pass a house so distinguished reverently
+uncover their heads: they also take off their
+hats on the appearance of a funeral, and remain so
+until the procession has passed.</p>
+
+<p>For him who is interested in such sights, the
+morgue presents a curious but sad attraction. Here
+lie on marble slabs, kept cool by a continuous
+stream of water, the bodies of unknown persons
+who have met their death in the river or by accident.
+Their clothing is suspended above their heads,
+and any one may enter and view these silent rows.
+After a certain period, if not identified, they are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page96" id="page96"></a>96</span>
+buried at the public expense. I behold many
+pathetic sights here, as broken-hearted relatives find
+their worst fears realized and lost and erring ones
+are recognized. Sad, sad are the pictures to be
+seen at the morgue. Here is a fair young girl, of
+not more than twenty years, resting peacefully upon
+her marble bed, her troubles in this world over forever.
+Her body was found yesterday floating on
+the Seine.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;One more unfortunate</p>
+  <p class="i1">Weary of breath,</p>
+<p class="i05">Sadly importunate,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Gone to her death.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;Touch her not scornfully;</p>
+<p class="i05">Think of her mournfully,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Gently and humanly;</p>
+<p class="i05">Not of the stains of her,</p>
+<p class="i05">All that remains of her</p>
+  <p class="i1">Now is pure womanly.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;Make no deep scrutiny</p>
+<p class="i05">Into her mutiny</p>
+  <p class="i1">Rash and undutiful:</p>
+<p class="i05">Past all dishonor,</p>
+<p class="i05">Death has left on her</p>
+  <p class="i1">Only the beautiful.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Pere Lachaise, once an old Jesuit stronghold, is
+now the largest cemetery in Paris. It is said that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page97" id="page97"></a>97</span>
+there are more than eighteen thousand monuments
+here. The older part is much crowded, and we
+find here famous names connected with every age
+and profession.</p>
+
+<p>Here is a granite pyramid, here one of white
+marble, and here the love of a nation commemorates
+with flowers the grave of a man whose resting-place
+no lofty monument marks, but who &ldquo;lives
+forever in the hearts of the French people.&rdquo; Here a
+monument whose sides exhibit bas-reliefs of the
+fable of the fox and stork, and the wolf and lamb,
+is surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black
+marble. This is the tomb of Lafontaine. The little
+Gothic chapel yonder is the tomb of Abelard, whose
+effigy lies upon the sarcophagus within, and beside
+it is that of Heloise. This double monument is very
+lovely, although the signs of neglect and decay are
+plainly visible.</p>
+
+<p>The military chiefs of Napoleon&rsquo;s day sleep in this
+cemetery, and here lie the mortal remains of St.
+Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, of the great
+painter, David, of Pradier, the sculptor, the actress
+Rachel, and hundreds of others with whose names
+we are all familiar. The grounds are picturesque
+with winding paths, and cypress groves, and
+wreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the loving
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page98" id="page98"></a>98</span>
+remembrance in which the dead are held by the
+living. The elevated position of Pere Lachaise
+gives one a fine view of the city. The grounds
+when first laid out in 1804, covered upward of
+forty acres; they now extend over more than two
+hundred acres, and it is said that $25,000,000 have
+been expended in monuments since this cemetery
+was opened.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page99" id="page99"></a>99</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Antwerp and the
+City of Windmills.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page100" id="page100"></a>100</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page101" id="page101"></a>101</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Antwerp and the City of Windmills.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>From Paris to Antwerp&mdash;Along the Route&mdash;Thrifty Farmers&mdash;Antwerp&mdash;Dogs
+in Harness&mdash;The River&mdash;Old Churches&mdash;Chimes&mdash;An
+Inappreciative Listener&mdash;Steen Museum&mdash;Instruments
+of Torture&mdash;Lace Industry&mdash;Living Expenses&mdash;Hospitality&mdash;The
+City of Windmills&mdash;Watery Highways&mdash;A City
+of Canals&mdash;The Maas River&mdash;The Houses on the Canals&mdash;Travel
+by Boats&mdash;Novel Scenes&mdash;Costly Headgear&mdash;Dutch
+Costumes&mdash;Powerful Draught Horses&mdash;No Bonbons&mdash;Chocolate
+Candy&mdash;In the Market-Place&mdash;The Belle of the Market&mdash;Photographs&mdash;Wooden
+Shoes&mdash;Drawbridges&mdash;Blowing the
+Horn&mdash;Ancient Relics&mdash;The Sword of Columbus.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:67px; height:90px" src="images/img_t.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">HE country between Paris and Antwerp is
+delightful, and very different from the
+lovely landscapes of England. Farms,
+towns, villages, all present a novel aspect,
+and the people speak a language very strange to
+our ears. The great fields along the road are not
+fenced in but are only distinguished from one another
+by the difference in the appearance of the
+crops. In England, as I have said, there are beautiful
+hedges everywhere separating the fields and
+meadows.</p>
+
+<p>Here are strong men and women working side
+by side in the fields. Here are buxom country
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page102" id="page102"></a>102</span>
+lasses, rope in hand, one end of which is attached
+to the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle. These
+are glowing pictures, and the clean farmhouses,
+fields and roads are abundant evidences of the industry
+and thrift of the people.</p>
+
+<p>Antwerp may well be termed a city of charms
+and fascinations. It is the most attractive and interesting
+town in Belgium, and at the same time one
+of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Our first impression
+of this place is of clean orderly streets,
+paved with the square Belgian blocks which endure
+so well the wear and tear of constant travel. The
+houses and shops are of a quaint, ancient style of
+architecture, and very picturesque effect. During
+the middle ages, Antwerp was a very important, as
+well as wealthy city, and its splendid docks, its
+wonderful cathedral, its magnificent paintings all
+testify that a period of exceptional prosperity has
+been granted to it in the past.</p>
+
+<p>A strange sight are the heavy freight wagons,
+with their broad wheels and various loads, drawn
+by large powerful dogs. In many cases the dogs,
+of which there are sometimes two or three, are
+strapped under the body of the wagon by a kind of
+leather harness, or, if the owner be too poor, rope is
+substituted. A man or woman assists in drawing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page103" id="page103"></a>103</span>
+the load, which is frequently so massive as to appear
+disproportioned to the combined strength of man
+and beast. The dogs are bred and trained for their
+peculiar vocation, and are never allowed to shirk
+their part of the burden imposed upon them. Should
+they attempt to do so, they are quickly recalled to
+their duty by a small whip, hence the maximum result
+may be obtained from their labor. Their muscular
+limbs show plainly that they possess great strength
+and endurance. Large powerful draught horses with
+well defined muscles are also used. These horses
+must weigh fully from twelve to sixteen hundred
+pounds, and when four or six are harnessed abreast,
+tons of merchandise may be moved in one load.
+Antwerp, a city of about 260,000 inhabitants, is one
+of the greatest seaports of Europe, having splendid
+facilities for ships of every size, and huge warehouses
+for the landing and storage of immense quantities
+of merchandise. It is finely situated on the Schelde,
+which is at this point one third of a mile wide and
+thirty feet deep, and serves as an outlet for the commerce
+of Germany as well as Belgium. The town
+was founded in the seventh century, and has passed
+through many vicissitudes, attaining the summit of
+its glory under the Emperor Charles V., about the
+close of the fifteenth century. At that period it is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page104" id="page104"></a>104</span>
+said that thousands of vessels lay in the Schelde at
+one time, and a hundred or more arrived and departed
+daily. Its decline began under the Spanish
+rule, when the terrors of the Inquisition banished
+thousands of its most valuable citizens, who sought
+refuge in other countries, especially in England,
+where they established silk factories, and assisted
+greatly in stimulating the commerce of the country.
+After scenes of war and frightful devastation, varied
+by brief seasons of prosperity, the tide of success
+once more returned to the old harbors about 1863,
+and since then its commerce has increased in a
+greater ratio than that of any other European city.
+The Flemish population predominates, and its
+characteristics are those of a German town.</p>
+
+<p>We enjoy many lovely views along the river
+frontage, where dozens upon dozens of ships lining
+the banks, offer a variety of pictures to the lover of
+water scenes, besides the fine prospect of the town
+from the river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page105" id="page105"></a>105</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:461px; height:700px" src="images/img108.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 107.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page106" id="page106"></a>106</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page107" id="page107"></a>107</span></p>
+
+<p>That the Cathedral is the first attraction for the
+tourist goes without saying, and those are well repaid
+who climb far up into its magnificent spire,
+even beyond the great group of bells that captivate
+the soul with their wonderful sweetness and melody.
+At a height of four hundred feet, the vast prospect
+spread out before one is indescribably beautiful.
+This Cathedral, the largest and handsomest Gothic
+church in the Netherlands, was begun in 1352, but
+was not completed until about 1616. The chimes
+consist of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is
+only fifteen inches in circumference, while the largest
+weighs eight tons. The chimes are rung every fifteen
+minutes, a musical reminder that the soul of man,
+no matter what his occupation, should be elevated
+by continual aspiration toward the living God. Oh,
+these beautiful chimes! What wondrous harmony
+they peal forth, and what a multitude of loving
+thoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very
+gates of heaven!</p>
+
+<p>A stranger in the town, and a traveller, made the
+remark to me that these bells must be very annoying,
+ringing at such short intervals, and especially
+at night. &ldquo;It is worse than a swarm of mosquitoes,&rdquo;
+he said, &ldquo;for one can escape the attentions
+of these insects by placing a net over his couch, but
+the piercing sounds of these monstrous bells penetrate
+one like the chill of zero weather.&rdquo; This reminded
+me of a man who shared our compartment
+in one of the French railway cars, who interrupted
+my enthusiastic remarks on Westminster Abbey, its
+exquisite associations, and the sacred atmosphere
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page108" id="page108"></a>108</span>
+which impressed all who came within its hallowed
+walls, by an eager question regarding the luncheon
+to be served an hour later.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of the Cathedral impresses one with
+its grand simplicity, and the long vistas of its six
+aisles present a fine effect. Here is Rubens&rsquo; famous
+masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross, and his
+earlier painting, the Elevation of the Cross, both
+magnificent works, remarkable for the easy and
+natural attitudes of the figures. The high altarpiece
+is an Assumption by Rubens, in which the Virgin
+is pictured in the clouds surrounded by a heavenly
+choir, with the apostles and other figures below.</p>
+
+<p>There are many other paintings here; also stained
+glass windows, both ancient and modern. The
+tower is an open structure of beautiful and elaborate
+design, from which lovely views may be seen during
+the journey to its summit.</p>
+
+<p>Another interesting landmark is the &ldquo;Steen&rdquo;
+originally forming part of the Castle of Antwerp,
+but in 1549 Charles V. made it over to the burghers
+of Antwerp. It was afterward the seat of the
+Spanish Inquisition. It is now occupied by the
+Museum van Oudheden, a collection of ancient and
+curious relics from the Roman times till the eighteenth
+century. Within this building one may view
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page109" id="page109"></a>109</span>
+the identical instruments of torture so mercilessly
+used by the Spanish inquisitors in the name of religion.
+It would not be difficult to photograph
+these diabolical inventions, for many of them are
+quite free from the surrounding objects, and not encased.
+In this collection we see also specimens of
+antique furniture, and a variety of ornaments, coins,
+costumes, tapestry curtains, ancient prints and engravings,
+and many other objects well worthy of
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>In Antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing
+some exquisite laces and embroideries. A visit to
+one of the many establishments here cannot fail to
+interest the stranger. At one of the shops we are
+conducted to a room in which a dozen girls are at
+work upon a delicate piece of lace. They have been
+engaged upon this masterpiece for about three
+months, and the proprietor tells us that as much
+more time will be required to finish it. The design
+is a huge web, in the centre of which is the sly
+spider apparently watching the victims who have
+strayed beyond the line of safety. A number of
+handsome and rare specimens of this valuable handwork
+are exhibited in the shop window, and one&rsquo;s
+desire to possess them may be satisfied by a
+moderate expenditure of money.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page110" id="page110"></a>110</span></p>
+
+<p>Antwerp is the city of Rubens. We find his
+tomb in the beautiful church of St. Jacques, rich in
+carvings and noble paintings, not far from the fine
+altarpiece painted by his hand. He lies in the
+Rubens Chapel, and here too are monuments of two
+of his descendants. The house in which the illustrious
+artist died stands in a street named for him,
+and in the Place Verte, formerly the churchyard of
+the Cathedral, stands a bronze statue of Rubens,
+thirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet
+high. At the feet of the master lie scrolls and
+books, also brushes, palette and hat; allusions to
+the talented diplomatist and statesman, as well as to
+the painter.</p>
+
+<p>One need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in
+this charming old town, for comfortable accommodations
+and good board may be enjoyed at less than
+moderate rates. I love this dear city, not only for
+its magnificent Cathedral, its rare paintings, its
+picturesque surroundings; but also for the remarkable
+hospitality of its people, their genial
+manner, their smiling faces. Their candor and
+honesty win the admiration and the heart of the
+tourist, and the stranger is quickly at home, and
+able to enjoy most fully the many attractions which
+the place affords.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page111" id="page111"></a>111</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img114.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The place is intersected everywhere by canals.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 113.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page112" id="page112"></a>112</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page113" id="page113"></a>113</span></p>
+
+<p>But the time has come to bid it adieu; we take
+the train and in two hours find ourselves in the ever
+quaint and picturesque town of Rotterdam, fitly
+named the &ldquo;City of Windmills.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Comfortable quarters may be found here at the
+Maas Hotel. Rotterdam, whose population is something
+over two hundred thousand, is the second
+city in commercial importance in Holland. Among
+its numerous attractions are art galleries, parks,
+gardens, the markets, bridges and canals, without
+mentioning the many windmills which wave their
+arms in blessing over the city. The place is intersected
+everywhere by canals, all deep enough for
+the passage of heavily laden ships, and with such
+names as the Oude Haven, Scheepmakershaven,
+Leuvehaven, Nieuwe Haven, Wynhaven, Blaak, and
+Haringvliet.</p>
+
+<p>Our hotel is situated upon the bank of the Maas
+River, and our windows overlook this body of
+water, which is in reality a highway. Instead
+of wagons drawn by strong muscular horses,
+however, barges, schooners, sail boats, and every
+kind of small craft, overflowing with fruits, vegetables
+and other produce, traverse the river as well
+as the canals. Looking over these watery roads,
+the mind is confused by the hundreds of boats
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page114" id="page114"></a>114</span>
+which seem inextricably mingled in one great mass,
+and appear to form a blockade as far as the eye can
+reach. Rotterdam might fitly add to its title of
+&ldquo;City of Windmills,&rdquo; that of the &ldquo;City of Canals.&rdquo;
+Houses, stores and other buildings are built directly
+upon the banks, and in fact, the foundations of
+these form the sides of the canals. In many cases
+the balconies of residences overhang the water, and
+passages are made beneath, by means of which produce,
+freight and other articles are conveyed to and
+from the buildings by boats, much as the wagons
+deliver goods in our cities from the streets to the
+houses.</p>
+
+<p>All these novel sights impress the visitor with the
+great difference between the manners and customs
+of this nation and our own; the result of the peculiar
+environment of the two countries. A stroll
+about the city affords abundant opportunity for interesting
+observations. Here one sees hundreds of
+Dutch women in their costly headgear of gold and
+silver, heirlooms of many generations. These head
+ornaments sometimes cover the entire scalp, and
+have curious filigree additions extending over the
+ears and temples. The head is first covered with a
+scrupulously clean and beautiful lace cap, upon
+which the gold or silver ornament is placed. These
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page115" id="page115"></a>115</span>
+heirlooms are valued beyond all price, and I have
+handled some which are two hundred years old,
+and which are held as sacred charges to be transmitted
+to posterity.</p>
+
+<p>As we traverse the streets of this quaint city, we
+feel indeed that fashion has stood still here for
+many years. The custom is universal throughout
+Holland for the natives of the different provinces,
+as Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in public,
+and especially when travelling, the costume peculiar
+to their own province, and it is by no means
+uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed
+women in close proximity to one another, each one
+representing by some peculiarity, a different province
+or section of the country. For instance; when
+I see the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds,
+and worn with a jacket of striped red and white,
+and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white
+tape, I know that the wearer is a native of the island
+of Marken. These various costumes, all gay
+and picturesque, are the source of great pleasure to
+the stranger, and add new life and interest to his
+travels in this country.</p>
+
+<p>Here also we notice the huge, powerful draught
+horses, with their massive hoofs and shaggy legs,
+drawing strange looking wagons laden with curious
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page116" id="page116"></a>116</span>
+boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn
+by the working classes also attract our attention
+and many other novel sights and customs give us
+the impression that we have chartered one of Jules
+Verne&rsquo;s original conveyances and wandered off to a
+country not located on this earthly planet.</p>
+
+<p>Wishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a
+candy shop and ask the fair maid behind the counter
+to put up a pound of this confection: our amazement
+is great when she replies that this form of
+sweetmeat is not to be found in Rotterdam.
+&ldquo;What,&rdquo; I exclaim, &ldquo;no sweets for the sweet girls
+of Holland?&rdquo; &ldquo;No, only chocolate candy.&rdquo; And
+this indeed is the only kind of bonbon to be had in
+Rotterdam. The sweet chocolate is moulded into
+various shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity
+and flavor that which is made in any other part of
+the world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page117" id="page117"></a>117</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:463px; height:700px" src="images/img120.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 114.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page118" id="page118"></a>118</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page119" id="page119"></a>119</span></p>
+
+<p>Our guide is very attentive and energetic; and
+anxious to show us everything of interest about the
+town, he conducts us through the numerous market-places.
+At one of these some amusement is
+excited by my photographs and sketches of the
+market people and the buyers. The market man
+stands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured
+face that seems to say that the cares and worries of
+this world affect him not at all. The whole scene
+is like some vividly colored picture, and I think as I
+look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of
+which we of the outside world know nothing.
+Apparently the people of this country possess the
+rare blessing of contentment with the lot which
+God has bestowed upon them.</p>
+
+<p>An old man and woman are particularly anxious
+for me to photograph their daughter, who they assure
+me is the belle of the market. This assertion,
+I think, may be true without much compliment to
+the girl, for a homelier set of human beings it
+would not be easy to find. After some preliminaries
+relating to posing and keeping back the curious
+country people who crowd closely around me and
+the camera, I finally succeed in making a good picture
+of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her
+father and mother on either side. They are all as
+proud as Punch of this performance, and seem
+quite &ldquo;set up&rdquo; by the occasion.</p>
+
+<p>One day being near to a manufacturer of the
+wooden shoes worn by the peasants, our party of
+four slips within the shop, and are fitted after trying
+on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent delight
+of Meinherr. It is necessary to wear a heavy
+woollen stocking to secure comfort in these shoes.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page120" id="page120"></a>120</span>
+The ordinary American stocking would soon be
+rubbed into holes by the hard surface of the shoe.
+Indeed it is quite a feat to be able to walk rapidly
+and gracefully in this clumsy footwear.</p>
+
+<p>Over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges
+are built, which are opened at intervals to
+allow the streams of boats to pass. The incessant
+blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the
+tally-ho notifies the watchman of the approach of
+boats. This sound may be heard at all hours of the
+day or night in any part of the city, and is at first,
+especially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger,
+but like other annoyances which are inevitable, the
+exercise of a little patience and endurance will enable
+one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to
+become as deaf to them as old &ldquo;Dame Eleanor
+Spearing.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I know of no place in which the lover of the antique,
+whether he is a collector of ancient coins,
+jewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after rare curios
+and relics, can experience greater delight than in
+this old city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of
+shops, whose proprietors devote their whole lives
+to the accumulation of such objects, and it is needless
+to say that their stock is rich and unique, and
+possesses abundant variety. We visit a number of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page121" id="page121"></a>121</span>
+these establishments, and I succeed in gathering up
+a large assortment of old swords which please my
+fancy. One of these is said to have been owned by
+Christopher Columbus(?). The shopkeeper vouches
+for the truth of the statement, and as I am willing
+to believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary,
+I label it as the sword of the great navigator who
+added a new hemisphere to our globe. The remaining
+swords have been the personal property of
+lords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and
+again I take comfort in the thought that if the records
+are not truthful, it is a minor consideration
+when taking into account the moderate prices
+which I have paid for the articles.</p>
+
+<p>The artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of material
+both for figure subjects, and odd and picturesque
+bits of landscape. Here too are wonderful
+interiors, with all the quaint associations of a bygone
+age. Here are scenes on the canals, the
+bridges, and the ever changing life on the river.
+By all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original
+studies for your sketch book.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page122" id="page122"></a>122</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page123" id="page123"></a>123</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:463px; height:700px" src="images/img126.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The belle of the Market.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 119.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page124" id="page124"></a>124</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page125" id="page125"></a>125</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">A City of Many Islands.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page126" id="page126"></a>126</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page127" id="page127"></a>127</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>A City of Many Islands.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Amsterdam&mdash;The People of Holland&mdash;-Amstel River&mdash;Merry Excursionists&mdash;Interesting
+Institutions&mdash;Origin of the City&mdash;Source
+of Prosperity&mdash;A Cousin to Venice&mdash;Ninety Islands&mdash;Beams
+and Gables&mdash;Block and Tackle&mdash;Old Salesmen&mdash;Street
+Markets&mdash;Haarlem&mdash;Railway Travel at Home and
+Abroad&mdash;Ancient Buildings&mdash;Historic Associations&mdash;In the
+Canal&mdash;Groote Kerk&mdash;The Great Organ&mdash;Picturesque Subjects&mdash;Zandvoort&mdash;Eau
+de Cologne&mdash;The Beach&mdash;Dutch Sail
+Boats&mdash;Seamen&mdash;Hooded Chairs&mdash;Peddlers&mdash;Music in Holland
+and Germany&mdash;Gypsies&mdash;We Meet an Artist&mdash;Hospitality&mdash;A
+Banquet.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:72px; height:90px" src="images/img_a.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">MSTERDAM, the commercial capital of
+Holland, is but a short ride from Rotterdam,
+and like all the other &ldquo;dam&rdquo; cities
+of this region, possesses many attractions
+of its own, besides being the centre or hub from
+which radiate trips to many picturesque towns and
+other points of interest.</p>
+
+<p>These irreverent sounding terminations do not by
+any means imply that the cities so called are steeped in
+wickedness and crime. On the contrary they are remarkable
+as being towns of exceptional purity and
+honesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page128" id="page128"></a>128</span>
+which bear witness to the good and loving aspirations
+of a conscientious Christian people.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in
+disposition, and fair in their dealings with one
+another. They are personally very attractive on
+account of the natural simplicity of their everyday
+lives, and the high principle of honor and morality
+upon which they conduct their business transactions.
+They train their children in accordance with these
+principles, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate
+their virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that
+he will receive fair and courteous treatment from
+both young and old.</p>
+
+<p>The Amstel River, viewed from the windows of
+our hotel, presents a beautiful picture. Upon the opposite
+bank are handsome residences, of substantial,
+square and regular architecture, while in slow, calm
+motion on the river may be seen boats of every description,
+many of them with a cargo of human
+beings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant
+bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance
+as the boats steam or row past our hotel.
+Merry songs and happy laughter drift back to our
+ears, and it seems as though we have at last reached
+a land exempt from the cares and sorrows of the
+everyday world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page129" id="page129"></a>129</span></p>
+
+<p>The Dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied,
+with a cheerful manner, and a cordial and
+genuine welcome.</p>
+
+<p>Amsterdam is indeed a great city, with numberless
+points of interest for the visitor, without
+mentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres,
+libraries, churches and other institutions; its botanical
+garden, university, parks and tramways.</p>
+
+<p>The town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of
+Amstel, who built a castle here in 1204, and constructed
+the dam to which it owes its name. In the
+fourteenth century it began to increase in importance,
+becoming at that time a refuge for the merchants
+who were banished from Brabant. At the
+close of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was
+ruined by the Spanish war, and many merchants,
+manufacturers, artists and other men of talent and
+enterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to
+Holland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population,
+and the conclusion of peace in 1609, and the establishment
+of the East India Company combined to
+raise the town within a short time to the rank of
+the greatest commercial city in Europe. Its population
+in 1890, excluding the suburbs, was 406,300.</p>
+
+<p>Amsterdam is generally at first sight compared
+with Venice, which it certainly resembles in two
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page130" id="page130"></a>130</span>
+points. Both cities are intersected by numerous
+canals, and the buildings of both are constructed
+upon piles; but there the similarity ends. There are
+wide, bustling thoroughfares in Amsterdam, traversed
+by wagons and drays which could have no
+place in the city of gondolas and ancient palaces.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page131" id="page131"></a>131</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:457px; height:700px" src="images/img134.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The Amstel River.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 128.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page132" id="page132"></a>132</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page133" id="page133"></a>133</span></p>
+
+<p>The canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amsterdam
+in every direction, are of various sizes, and divide
+the city into ninety islands; and these are connected
+by nearly three hundred bridges. There are
+four principal, or grand canals, which are in broad,
+handsome avenues, bordered with trees, and with
+sidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals intersect
+these and serve to connect one part of the town
+with another, as short streets cross wide highways
+and main thoroughfares in other places. Rows of
+fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses,
+and as all the buildings are constructed on
+foundations of piles, the old quotation of &ldquo;a city
+whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like
+rooks,&rdquo; is not without considerable truth. The
+quaint old architecture of the stores and houses is of
+itself a source of great interest to the visitor. We
+have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and
+tiled roofs overhanging the windows, that at first
+one has the impression of awakening from a dream
+to its reality. Remarkable order and cleanliness
+prevail everywhere, adding to this feeling, for the
+wear and tear of daily living do not seem to affect
+the almost immaculate atmosphere of the place.
+Windows are as clear as crystal, and the woodwork
+of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly
+scrubbed and sanded. Projecting from the attic
+windows of many buildings may be seen a pole or
+beam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to
+hoist furniture and other heavy or bulky articles
+from the sidewalk to the upper stories. These
+things are not carried up the winding stairway, as
+with us, scratching and defacing the walls and
+paint, as well as the furniture, and resulting in
+much vexation and the utterance of unseemly swear
+words. All this is avoided by the methods of the
+people of Holland, and the citizens of America
+would profit by adopting them, if only as a means
+of avoiding the temptation to express one&rsquo;s feelings
+in violent and irreligious language.</p>
+
+<p>Among the thousand and one attractions of this
+interesting city, the curious-looking old junks, or
+salesmen and women stationed at various points on
+the streets, are not unworthy the notice of the photographer
+or artist. Their wares consist of old
+scrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps toothless, hammers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page134" id="page134"></a>134</span>
+without handles, nails of every size, files, beds and
+other articles of furniture apparently dating back to
+scriptural ages. Such markets, where odds and
+ends of every imaginable kind are gathered into
+piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people,
+seem to be sanctioned by the authorities, and sometimes
+present a very active and thriving appearance.
+They are not unpicturesque in their odd combinations
+of color, attitude and expression.</p>
+
+<p>The great windmills along the canal, with their
+huge revolving arms, and the boats with their loads
+of merchandise; the peasant women with their
+quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses;
+the tall Dutch houses with their red and
+yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and gables, the
+beautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten,
+the vast docks, with forests of masts, and countless
+ships from all parts of the world, and products of
+every country, the wonderful dikes, all form a succession
+of views of charming variety and individual
+beauty that are fascinating to the newcomer.</p>
+
+<p>Many short trips may be taken from here either
+by boat or train, and he who would fill his portfolio
+with quaint and lovely pictures, will find his enthusiasm
+aroused, no matter in which direction he
+may venture, or whether his expedition be on land
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page135" id="page135"></a>135</span>
+or water. Interesting localities are always within
+easy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation
+and accommodation render all points accessible to
+the traveller whose purse is of the most slender
+dimensions.</p>
+
+<p>Take with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort.
+Proceeding to the Central Railroad Station, we purchase
+tickets which entitle us to the short ride in
+the usual compartment car. And here one may
+note the difference between railroad travel throughout
+England and on the Continent, and the American
+system. Instead of having one car into which
+passengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and
+poor, merchants and emigrants crowd as in free
+America, European trains are divided into three sections,
+viz: first, second and third class. Although
+the more general experience is that the second class
+compartments are quite as comfortable, clean and
+attractive as the first class compartments, the price
+of the latter is nearly double that of the former, and
+the fare of the second class nearly double that of
+the third. In many sections of England, Scotland
+and Germany, the third class accommodations are
+by no means unpleasant: but do not take third class
+tickets when travelling in Ireland, for should you do
+so, it is more than probable that just as you are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page136" id="page136"></a>136</span>
+waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic
+and beautiful scenery around you, Paddy with his
+wife and progeny, several pigs, and whatever other
+small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently
+dragged along, will be planted by your side,
+or roam about you in such unpleasant proximity as
+to change all your romantic visions into the most
+unromantic prose.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem,
+famous in past years for its tulips, and now noted
+for its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well as for
+the curious old houses of brick and stone which are
+the delight of all the visitors to Holland. These
+lofty steeples and rows of ancient and picturesque
+houses have looked down upon many generations,
+and witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance
+that have been registered on the pages of history;
+for like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege
+during the war for independence, and stories of the
+heroism of both men and women have come down
+through the long centuries to tell us of experiences
+of which these ancient structures, stately and silent,
+give no sign. So well cared for are the old buildings,
+that one can readily imagine that they will appear
+as they do to-day for many centuries to come.</p>
+
+<p>How we enjoy this historic old place! The very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page137" id="page137"></a>137</span>
+air we breathe seems laden with odors of the past.
+The flower-beds are wonderfully attractive, with
+their gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole
+fields of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant
+blooming plants in every shade of color are to be
+seen here, and this town supplies many of the largest
+gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne
+River winds through the town, which possesses
+the characteristic cleanliness of the other cities of
+Holland.</p>
+
+<p>While driving along the bank of the canal here,
+our attention is attracted by the sound of loud,
+shrill cries which seem to come from the water.
+&ldquo;What!&rdquo; I say, &ldquo;do the lurking spirits of the slain
+thus make themselves known to the living? Are
+there still lingering &lsquo;pale gliding ghosts, with fingers
+dropping gore&rsquo;?&rdquo; Whatever it may be, dead
+or living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and
+alighting, hasten to the edge of the canal. Looking
+into the dark muddy water, I see a lad of about
+twelve years, just able to keep his head above the
+stream, and screaming lustily for help. A young
+man reaches the spot at the same moment, and
+plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the
+boy who is too much frightened and exhausted to
+give any account of himself.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page138" id="page138"></a>138</span></p>
+
+<p>The &ldquo;Groote&rdquo; market is in the middle of the
+town, and here is to be seen one of the finest old
+buildings in this part of the country. This is the
+ancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and
+stone, and quaint and picturesque enough to charm
+the soul of an artist with an irresistible desire to
+carry it home upon his canvas.</p>
+
+<p>In the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk,
+an imposing and lofty structure, dating back to the
+end of the fifteenth century, with its tower of two
+hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty
+to the edifice. The interior will more than repay
+one for the time spent in examining it. The old
+walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time
+and cover the scars, many of which, history tells
+us, are the results of the Spanish siege. Here
+are odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive
+benches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling
+alone would convince one of the antiquity of this
+relic of the middle ages. The organ, constructed
+in 1735, was for many years looked upon as the
+most powerful in the world, and still ranks as one
+of the largest instruments in existence. It contains
+four keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five thousand
+pipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in
+diameter, and thirty two feet in length. We endeavor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page139" id="page139"></a>139</span>
+to persuade the rector to allow us to play
+upon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond
+flattery, coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to
+the rigid rules, which decree that recitals shall be
+held only on certain regular days. How we long
+to hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which
+has uplifted the soul of man, and bidden him look
+to God in his times of tribulation, or fill this lofty
+dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving
+in days of peace and prosperity. I think of the
+stories these old walls could tell of the cruelties of
+the Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep
+for paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one
+could write interminably of these old towns with
+their quaint and glowing pictures. At every turn a
+new and attractive scene presents itself, and we
+reluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied,
+and proceed to Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable
+resort on the coast of the Noord Zee. At the railway
+stations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne
+water in small glass bottles which is so popular
+throughout Holland, and which is sold much as
+peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The
+quality is excellent, and the price is so moderate
+that the use of this perfume is really carried to excess
+by tourists, who find that it not only refreshes
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page140" id="page140"></a>140</span>
+one after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the
+face from dust and cinders.</p>
+
+<p>We alight at a small unpretentious station, the
+terminus of this railroad, and walk a short distance
+to the beach. The pure salt air seems like a delightful
+tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping gradually
+to the water which is very deep. With the white
+sand for a carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting
+our eyes upon the lovely scene which at every turn
+presents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail
+boats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is enhanced
+by the groups of sailors waiting for the
+tide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged faces
+and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to
+the artist.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page141" id="page141"></a>141</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:458px; height:700px" src="images/img144.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 140.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page142" id="page142"></a>142</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page143" id="page143"></a>143</span></p>
+
+<p>The season seems to be either early or late, for
+the people along the shore are scant in number.
+Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large comfortable
+seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the
+hotels and at the water&rsquo;s edge, and at a trifling cost,
+offer rest to the weary pedestrian, and protection to
+the shy lovers who seek to escape the embarrassing
+gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering
+fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with
+basket suspended from the shoulder, pausing before
+the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with importunities
+to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various
+other dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians
+with stringed instruments, who charm us with their
+delightful melodies. Their music is superior to that
+which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia.
+In truth, in Holland and Germany, one rarely hears
+anything but good music from these bands of itinerant
+players, and operatic selections of the higher
+class are frequently heard at the popular beer
+gardens of these countries.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy
+encampment, and the quick witted members of
+these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune telling.
+We are told that they are always to be found
+here during the summer season, and are quite
+popular among the young and the credulous, who
+willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the
+future, and the wonderful predictions of fame and
+fortune made by these glib tongued southerners.
+Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed
+all the colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect:
+and now I discover in one of the great hooded
+chairs a lady artist, with a well covered canvas,
+upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome
+gypsy girl, while the wagons and the sea
+form a beautiful background. I enter into conversation
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page144" id="page144"></a>144</span>
+with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam,
+and is filled with enthusiasm for the charms
+of this country. She says: &ldquo;If one will but open
+his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every
+corner of the province.&rdquo; And it is true. Nature
+has indeed been lavish in her gifts to Holland.
+Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in number,
+and indescribably attractive.</p>
+
+<p>The citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and
+hospitable. As an instance of their cordiality I
+mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor
+by a townsman Mr. L&mdash;&mdash;, who says we must not
+return home without a glimpse of the social life of
+the city. The banquet is held at the largest and
+most popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier),
+and besides our host and his family, a few intimate
+friends and some young people are present. At the
+appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and
+handsome building, and are conducted to a beautiful
+apartment with most attractive surroundings.
+The first floor of this hall is elegantly furnished, and
+lit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other
+tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a
+cordial welcome from our host, we are led to the
+banqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the light
+and beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page145" id="page145"></a>145</span>
+effect. Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers,
+plants and fruits are picturesquely arranged, and
+even the electric lights exhibit various glowing designs.
+The feast is prepared under the direction of
+an experienced chef, and here we speedily become
+aware that the city of Amsterdam is not one whit
+behind the great centres of the world in this line of
+achievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and
+its people have been responded to, the hospitalities
+are concluded with one to &ldquo;America and its beautiful
+women,&rdquo; and we take our departure after three
+hours most delightfully spent in social intercourse
+with our friends. Upon this occasion four languages,
+French, Dutch, German and English are
+fluently spoken.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page146" id="page146"></a>146</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page147" id="page147"></a>147</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Excursions to Broek and
+the Island of Marken.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page148" id="page148"></a>148</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page149" id="page149"></a>149</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>A Charming Journey&mdash;Fellow-Passengers&mdash;National Costumes&mdash;The
+Children&mdash;A Lovely Landscape&mdash;Holstein Cattle&mdash;Windmills&mdash;Irrigation&mdash;Farmers&mdash;A
+Typical Dutch Village&mdash;Washing-Day&mdash;The
+Red, White and Blue&mdash;Suppose a Bull
+Should Appear&mdash;A Brilliant Picture&mdash;Drawing the Canal
+Boat&mdash;Honesty and Cleanliness&mdash;A Thrifty and Industrious
+People&mdash;Farming and Cheese-making&mdash;As Evening Falls&mdash;Scenes
+for an Artist&mdash;Dead Cities of Holland&mdash;Monnikendam&mdash;Behind
+the Age&mdash;City Lamps&mdash;Houses and People&mdash;The
+Island of Marken&mdash;An Isolated Wonderland&mdash;First Impressions&mdash;Rare
+Holidays&mdash;The Family Doctor&mdash;Absence of the
+Men&mdash;The Fishing&mdash;Healthy and Industrious population&mdash;The
+Women of Marken&mdash;Pretty Girls&mdash;They Will not be
+Taken&mdash;A Valuable Experience&mdash;Photographs.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:72px; height:90px" src="images/img_a.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">&ensp;BEAUTIFUL trip is that to Broek. We take
+the small steamer that lies in the river a
+short distance from our hotel, the Amstel,
+and after a sail of three-quarters of an
+hour, are landed at an insignificant station on the
+opposite shore. Here a little car with bare wooden
+seats running lengthwise, and a queer looking engine
+waits for passengers from the boat. And now we
+ride through a picturesque farming country, passing
+numerous small stations. This road terminates at
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page150" id="page150"></a>150</span>
+Edam, but we do not go that far. Our fellow-passengers
+are most interesting. Many of the women
+wear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroidered
+caps which are so quaint and becoming, and
+all wear the customary wooden shoes.</p>
+
+<p>The men have rugged brown faces, and sinewy
+arms: some of them wear the heavy wooden shoes,
+others slippers, while a number are barefooted.
+How they all stare at us, and it is just as impossible
+for us to withdraw our eyes from them. We are
+novel sights to each other. I wonder what they
+think of our appearance. Their faces are impassive,
+but ours must surely express wonder, admiration
+and a strong desire on the part of one at least, to
+capture these studies in color and figure that surround
+us on every side.</p>
+
+<p>The children, with their rosy cheeks and round
+healthy forms, seem merry and happy, although
+none of them are sociable or talkative with us. They
+look at us in amazement. This is a delightful ride
+over a smooth velvety road, with rich pasture land
+on either side. Now we pass great dikes which
+hold back the waters from these fertile fields; and
+now short canals with their little boats, on which
+perhaps the Dutch vrow in her snowy cap and gold
+head-dress is seated beside her husband who smokes
+his pipe with a meditative air. The flat landscape
+is varied by innumerable herds of cattle, principally of
+Holstein breed, with the great white bands encircling
+the bodies, which reminds me of the story of the
+Yankee who used this band for a foundation upon
+which to paint his sign: &ldquo;The finest milk and cream
+in the world within. Price two cents per quart.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page151" id="page151"></a>151</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:458px; height:700px" src="images/img154.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle.&rdquo;  &emsp; (<i>See page 153.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page152" id="page152"></a>152</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page153" id="page153"></a>153</span></p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of windmills may be seen with their
+long wings gracefully moving at the touch of a
+gentle breeze, in perfect harmony with the surrounding
+landscape. These mills have been used
+for many centuries in Holland, which is their mother
+country, and serve for draining the land, or for
+manufacturing purposes. They are placed upon a
+substantial foundation of brick or stone, and their
+enormous sails describe a circle of over a hundred
+feet in diameter: some run saws that cut through
+logs of great thickness, while others are huge grain
+mills. The smaller windmills are made of wood
+like those seen in some portions of our own country.
+The system of irrigation by means of windmills is
+very complete in Holland, thus it is that we see
+everywhere such beautiful fertile fields. Many of
+the farms in this locality employ three or four, and
+even more windmills for this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>We see many farmers, with their wives and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page154" id="page154"></a>154</span>
+children, working in the fields, and they all stop for
+an instant as our train passes, to shout a merry
+greeting. Here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes
+along the road. Flocks of sheep stand in the shadow
+of the trees, and armies of quacking ducks emerge
+from a marshy pool and spread themselves across
+the green.</p>
+
+<p>The average speed of our antediluvian express is
+from five to seven miles an hour, but it is perfectly
+satisfactory to these deliberate people; and as to
+ourselves, we are enjoying everything too much
+to wish it shortened by one minute. We arrive,
+however, at Broek, which is celebrated as one
+of the cleanest towns in the world. It contains
+about sixteen hundred inhabitants, and its narrow
+streets are paved with yellow bricks which are kept
+scrupulously clean. The small frame houses have
+tiled roofs, and with their flower gardens, present
+an orderly appearance. The whole atmosphere of
+the place is one of primitive simplicity. Some of
+the buildings are painted white, some green, and
+others of a variety of hues. They all wear an indescribable
+air of repose: and it is said that the
+front doors are not opened from the beginning to
+the end of the year, except on the occasion of a
+wedding or a funeral. The gardens are veritable
+curiosities, with their old-fashioned flower-beds,
+and box-bushes cut into various fantastic shapes,
+and all so diminutive that one feels as though he has
+fallen upon an animated edition of the Noah&rsquo;s Ark
+of his childish days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page155" id="page155"></a>155</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img158.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Most of the houses have a canal at the back.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 157.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page156" id="page156"></a>156</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page157" id="page157"></a>157</span></p>
+
+<p>Most of the houses have a canal or small stream
+at the back, and close by, upon a washing-day, the
+garments of the family may be seen flying in the
+breeze, displaying to the stranger the prevailing
+colors of the community, which are red, white and
+blue. Red predominates, however, since red flannel
+is universally worn by the middle and lower
+classes in Holland. I think of the fine bull which
+we saw but a short time ago, grazing so peacefully
+in the meadow, and wonder what effect this exposure
+of tantalizing color would have upon his equanimity.
+Should he be let loose among the back
+gardens of Broek upon a washing-day, the order
+of this immaculate village would certainly receive a
+shock. For once in the history of the place, things
+would be topsy-turvy, and the excitement would
+doubtless surpass anything previously seen in this
+peaceful town.</p>
+
+<p>What beautiful and picturesque combinations are
+here! The varying shades of green and blue, mingled
+with harmonious tints of yellow, produce a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page158" id="page158"></a>158</span>
+scene for the impressionist, while the effect is enhanced
+by the streams and canals which wind in
+and out with many a turn and twist, apparently for
+the sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this
+quaint and unique locality.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally we see a canal boat of larger size
+drawn by a buxom Dutch maiden and her brother;
+or not infrequently it is the old man and his wife,
+and sometimes the entire family all strenuously tugging
+the stout rope which is securely fastened to
+the bow of the boat, while the dilapidated old craft,
+laden with merchandise or produce creaks slowly
+on its way, breaking the placid surface of the water
+with a soft musical plash.</p>
+
+<p>Honesty and truthfulness are unmistakably impressed
+upon the faces of all whom we meet in this
+section. The people hereabouts do not possess the
+shrewd business capacity of our Wall Street brokers,
+but they are mild and pleasant, with a wholesome
+appearance of health and good appetite.
+They are individually as clean and orderly as is their
+village. Water is as cheap here as in America, but
+in this place there seems to be an extravagance in
+the use of it which far exceeds that of the same
+class in our country.</p>
+
+<p>There are no beggars or idlers here. The people
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page159" id="page159"></a>159</span>
+are so thrifty and industrious that no portion of the
+day is wasted. Every one seems to have an appointed
+task, even the small children, whom we
+see feeding the ducks and pigs. All are engaged in
+some useful occupation.</p>
+
+<p>Farming and cheese-making are the principal industries,
+although other branches of business, such
+as stock-raising, fishing, boat-making, and the
+manufacture of wooden shoes, are carried on to
+some extent.</p>
+
+<p>Our visit to the village naturally attracts some attention,
+as foreigners are rarely seen in these out of
+the way corners.</p>
+
+<p>As evening steals upon us, the scene grows indescribably
+lovely, for the sun in his descent illumines
+the whole landscape with vivid gleams of many
+colors. The blue stream which finds its outlet in
+the larger river, changes its sombre hue to one of
+dazzling gold, which throws out rich reflections of
+clouds and foliage. A fairy-like transformation
+seems to have taken place in the streets and houses;
+and, as we leave the village and the shades of night
+fall about us, my thoughts are with the artist, the
+photographer, the impressionist, who would feel
+the most exquisite delight in such an opportunity;
+for he who could do justice to this landscape either
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page160" id="page160"></a>160</span>
+with brush or camera, would produce a picture
+worthy of place among the noblest works of art.</p>
+
+<p>We have heard so much of the &ldquo;Dead cities of
+Holland,&rdquo; and especially of the secluded life on the
+island of Marken, that we determine to see for ourselves
+what this term really signifies. On our way
+thither, we pass through the old town of Monnikendam,
+in which we behold many strange and curious
+sights. People and buildings impress us with
+the idea that &ldquo;Father Time&rdquo; has forgotten this
+place altogether in his rounds of cutting down and
+making place for newcomers. The ancient and
+picturesque houses look as though coeval with Time
+himself; but in truth they are only mediæval; it is
+the people who have stood still. The present age
+has no place in their lives.</p>
+
+<p>The population of the town numbers about
+twenty-three hundred, and this is largely made up
+of children, judging from the appearance of the
+streets. The main street is wide and attractive, but
+the side streets are narrow, and all are paved with
+hard bricks placed edgewise. At night the town is
+lighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts: coal is
+generally used for fuel, but some of the residents
+use gasoline, which also serves for light. The
+houses are primitive in construction, and the people
+seem odd and inquisitive, but simple and economical
+in dress and habit. As we expect to return in
+a short time, we direct our course without delay to
+the Island of Marken.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page161" id="page161"></a>161</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:463px; height:700px" src="images/img164.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The blue stream finds its outlet in the river.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 159.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page162" id="page162"></a>162</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page163" id="page163"></a>163</span></p>
+
+<p>A good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the Zuyder Zee,
+beside the banks of Monnikendam. The captain is
+a full-blooded &ldquo;Markenite,&rdquo; born and bred on the
+island. Having made arrangements with him, we
+go on board and are soon on our way to the strange
+city: our hearts beat more quickly, and all eyes are
+eagerly strained toward it, when the distant island
+appears in the direction of our yacht&rsquo;s bow. After
+an hour&rsquo;s sail, we come to anchor in the harbor of
+this secluded wonderland. As we approach the
+town, the view from our boat seems to justify the
+title which has been given to it of &ldquo;the Dead City.&rdquo;
+It lies away from everything and everybody, and
+save the deep sea which surrounds it, and which
+supplies its inhabitants with food, the island of
+Marken has for centuries known no association outside
+its own boundaries.</p>
+
+<p>No news is carried to or from this isolated region.
+At rare intervals an islander, by temperament more
+adventurous or enterprising than his fellows, makes
+the daring undertaking of a visit to Monnikendam,
+or the bolder flight to Amsterdam, although there
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page164" id="page164"></a>164</span>
+are but few instances on record of such a reckless
+proceeding as the last. The place has a population
+of about thirteen hundred souls, and one may form
+an idea of the health of its inhabitants from the fact
+that one doctor, without an assistant, is the family
+physician for all the people on the island, and we
+are told that calls upon his professional attention are
+not sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from
+forming on his medicine chest.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch language is spoken here, and it is so
+rare to find any one who understands English, that
+it is necessary to bring an interpreter as well as
+guide in visiting this secluded spot. The inhabitants
+look upon us as though we have dropped from the
+clouds, or sprung suddenly out of the earth. It is
+unfortunate that we have come here on Monday, for
+on this day the men of the island go off in their
+fishing boats, and do not return till Saturday night.
+Only the old and crippled are left with the women
+and children. Sunday is the one day in the week
+which the men may spend with their wives and
+sweethearts. Fishing is the sole means of subsistence
+here. The native inhabitants are industrious
+and economical, but of a low type of intellect,
+rarely if ever displaying interest in literary attainments.
+Health and good appetites seem to be their
+chief characteristics, and a more law-abiding, innocent
+and virtuous people it would be difficult to
+find. The women are large, muscular and well
+shaped, and appear fully able to protect and care
+for their households in the absence of the men.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page165" id="page165"></a>165</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:466px; height:700px" src="images/img168.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;All persuasions accomplish naught.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 168.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page166" id="page166"></a>166</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page167" id="page167"></a>167</span></p>
+
+<p>I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by
+force of arms, some of these rare types of strength
+and beauty, and observing <span class="correction" title="amended from too">two</span> pretty young girls
+standing in the doorway of one of the houses, both
+perfect specimens of physical health, I think this an
+opportunity not to be neglected. What a fine
+picture they present with their erect forms, their
+firm round arms, rosy cheeks and bright eyes!
+They are well proportioned, and looking at their
+smiling faces one can readily understand that a physician
+in a locality whose residents are represented
+by such glowing life as that which is now before
+me, may easily find time to be absent from his
+duties a year or two.</p>
+
+<p>Fired with enthusiasm, I approach the girls who
+are talking to a couple of old women, and am about
+to make a &ldquo;snap shot&rdquo; of the group, when suddenly
+perceiving my intention, they fly into the
+house like frightened deer, to the amusement of the
+old women, and the grief of the writer. Determined
+not to be outdone, for now this picture beyond
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page168" id="page168"></a>168</span>
+all others is the desire of my heart, I enter the
+house and learn that the young damsels have sought
+refuge in the loft, and are hiding, ostrich like, with
+their heads buried in a mass of clothing. All my
+persuasions, aided by those of the older women,
+accomplish nought, even the liberal offer of silver
+guilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate
+maids, and I am obliged to relinquish my desire.
+However, I have made a valuable discovery, and
+that is that it is better under some circumstances not
+to ask for the privilege, but to resort to strategy. I
+request one or more of our party to engage the proposed
+subject in conversation, while I retire to a
+suitable distance with my camera, focus the group,
+then fire away. This plan succeeds admirably, and
+my collection increases steadily and satisfactorily.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page169" id="page169"></a>169</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img172.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;One old woman is fascinated with the camera.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 171.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page170" id="page170"></a>170</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page171" id="page171"></a>171</span></p>
+
+<p>However, upon better acquaintance with the
+townspeople and the repeated assurances of our
+skipper, who speaks some English, that our purpose
+is an innocent one, we are allowed to photograph
+the whole town freely, and all its valuable
+possessions. Occasionally a guilder slipped quietly
+into the hand of one of the older women opens a
+new vein of good fortune, for they insist that &ldquo;the
+gentleman shall be allowed to take the picture;&rdquo;
+whether it be an old-fashioned interior with its
+quaint belongings, or a pretty maid too shy to hold
+her head up properly. One old woman is so fascinated
+with the camera that she asks me to take
+picture after picture of her homely wrinkled countenance.
+At first I do so to her extreme delight,
+but finally I only pretend to take her picture, and
+the last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles
+are all wasted upon an unimpressionable plate.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page172" id="page172"></a>172</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page173" id="page173"></a>173</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">The Ancient Town
+of Monnikendam.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page174" id="page174"></a>174</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page175" id="page175"></a>175</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:465px; height:700px" src="images/img178.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;We walk along the narrow streets.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 177.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page176" id="page176"></a>176</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page177" id="page177"></a>177</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>The Ancient Town of Monnikendam.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Marken Homes&mdash;Beds in the Wall&mdash;Family Heirlooms&mdash;An Ancient
+Clock&mdash;Precious Treasures&mdash;Quaint Customs&mdash;Betrothed
+Couples&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;Its Interior&mdash;A Lack of Patrons&mdash;Costumes
+of a By-gone Age&mdash;Farewell to Marken&mdash;Remote Districts&mdash;Monnikendam&mdash;Ancient
+Houses&mdash;Hotel de Posthoorn&mdash;The
+Postman of the Past&mdash;A Difficult Stairway&mdash;We Stroll
+about the Town&mdash;Our Retinue&mdash;In Front of the Hotel&mdash;Such
+Curious Children&mdash;Supper&mdash;We Visit the Shops&mdash;Pantomime&mdash;A
+Novel Experience&mdash;They Cannot Understand&mdash;No
+Candles&mdash;We Attract a Crowd&mdash;The Clothing Store&mdash;A
+Marken Suit&mdash;&ldquo;Too High&rdquo;&mdash;Bargaining&mdash;A Stranger to the
+Rescue.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 140px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:92px; height:90px" src="images/img_w.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">E walk along the narrow streets, some of
+which are paved with little footways,
+and now and then visit one of the
+whitewashed frame houses with their
+red tiled roofs. These houses are built after one
+pattern, and resemble each other so closely in their
+crude architecture, that a stranger might easily make
+a mistake, and enter the wrong door, without having
+previously taken anything stronger than a glass
+of water. The interior consists of four small rooms,
+which are kept scrupulously clean and orderly.
+One of these is used as a living-room, and one as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page178" id="page178"></a>178</span>
+dining-room and kitchen. The beds of the family
+are simply close, dark recesses in the wall, in which
+there are bunks or shelves, and on these the mattresses
+and bed clothing are placed, the occupants
+mounting by means of wooden steps to this ill-ventilated
+and most uninviting resting-place. We
+shudder as we glance into these dismal closets, and
+feel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping
+in one of them.</p>
+
+<p>In every house there seems to be reserved a special
+apartment, as a storage-place for the family
+heirlooms, and here are preserved articles which
+have been handed down from generation to generation
+for centuries. Dolls of various primitive shapes,
+broken and torn, with black, dusty clothing; clocks
+long since arrested in their career by age or accident;
+chairs of rude manufacture, with perhaps a
+broken leg or back; watches and jewelry of ancient
+design; odd furniture and pieces of china, besides
+other relics which would be useful only in an exhibition
+of the antique. All these things are sacred
+in the eyes of their owners, who would as soon
+think of parting with one of their children as of
+allowing one of these treasures to pass out of the
+family.</p>
+
+<p>At one of the houses I see stored among the heirlooms
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page179" id="page179"></a>179</span>
+a clock, which the owner informs me has
+been in the family for two hundred and fifty years.
+I do not doubt the assertion, for it looks as though
+the dust of a <i>thousand</i> years has silently but steadily
+accumulated upon its venerable face. I am
+about with my handkerchief to brush off some of
+this precious dust, in order to see the wood and
+brass in their peculiar coloring and design, but am
+quietly stopped by the hand of my host.</p>
+
+<p>There is a noticeable rivalry between the different
+families in regard to these treasures which are
+placed carefully away, as if too sacred for the light
+of day, and are shown to the visitor much as the
+guide employed in the mint allows one to touch a
+piece of gold or silver in the early process of coinage.
+Each family tries to outdo the others in its
+collection, and in the ancient appearance of the
+hoard. It is amusing to watch their faces, when
+exhibiting the wonders: they seem very uneasy if
+the stranger offers to touch one of the pieces, as
+though in terror lest it should thus lose some of
+those precious particles which enhance its value.</p>
+
+<p>At another house I am allowed, as a great favor,
+to examine one of the dolls, and really the anxiety
+shown until the owner has placed it once more in
+its place in his collection is ludicrous. The most
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page180" id="page180"></a>180</span>
+delicate human being, or a piece of frail egg-shell
+china could not be more tenderly handled.</p>
+
+<p>These people are quite as quaint in appearance
+as in their customs. The old-time costume of
+the island is worn as in other parts of Holland,
+but here there is an intensity of ancientness, if I
+may use the expression, which must be seen in
+order to be fully appreciated. They really seem
+the remnants of a dead era, and in all their
+ways display a want of experience of the outside
+world, a lack of that perception which
+the men and women of to-day seem to inhale
+with the very atmosphere, which is truly astonishing.
+The marriage and betrothal customs are especially
+peculiar. We learn that an engaged couple
+cannot wed until five years have elapsed since the
+announcement of the betrothal; and should a death
+occur in either family in the meantime, it is considered
+such an ill omen that the engagement is
+broken off altogether: at the end of a year, however,
+a new engagement may be entered into, and
+after a second long period of waiting the wedding
+is consummated.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page181" id="page181"></a>181</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img184.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike scene.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 185.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page182" id="page182"></a>182</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page183" id="page183"></a>183</span></p>
+
+<p>There are many rigid rules of etiquette connected
+with these engagements; for instance: should the
+young lover, upon each meeting, neglect to impress
+a kiss upon the cheek of every member of the family
+of his fiancée, the contract is annulled. One
+can readily believe almost any statement regarding
+these strange people who seem like a peculiar race
+stranded upon a desert island. Still from ocular
+demonstration, we feel very certain that notwithstanding
+these stringent rules, there is no lack of
+weddings among the young people, for there is an
+overwhelming number of children upon the island.</p>
+
+<p>Marken boasts of a hotel, and the owner and
+landlord tells us as he stands proudly upon its
+stoop, that this bold enterprise issued from his fertile
+brain, and that he is looking for a rich return
+for his venture. I respond with as much enthusiasm
+as I can gather upon this occasion, but fear
+he would receive but cold comfort from the true
+state of my mind on the subject. The building
+consists of six rooms which he pronounces quite
+modern. On the lower floor are a kitchen, ten feet
+by ten, and a dining-room, twelve by fourteen,
+which also serves as a barroom, sitting-room and
+smoking den, all rolled into one. Here the guests
+are supposed to reach the acme of ease and comfort.
+A bare wooden table and six chairs comprise
+the furniture of the room, and there is nothing else
+visible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page184" id="page184"></a>184</span>
+at the windows. Upstairs are three bedrooms,
+scantily furnished; here too the windows are curtained.
+The freshness of these rooms and their
+surroundings gives us the impression that they have
+never been occupied since the erection of the hotel
+a year ago, by any one of greater importance than
+the myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in
+lazy groups to the walls and ceilings. My sympathy
+goes out to these ignorant creatures who do
+not seem to have strength enough to get away, and
+seek their nourishment in other quarters.</p>
+
+<p>We find tolerably comfortable accommodations
+here, and view things very philosophically on account
+of the curious and interesting life by which
+we are surrounded. The men and women in their
+odd costumes are rare pictures. The clothing worn
+here is of a style worn hundreds of years ago, and
+there is no consciousness on the part of its wearers
+that there is anything unusual in its appearance.
+&ldquo;Where ignorance is bliss, &rsquo;tis folly to be wise,&rdquo;
+and it is more than probable that they will continue
+to wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to
+come.</p>
+
+<p>Much of the washing is done in the little canal
+which flows through the town, and this is easily
+accomplished, as linen is not worn to any great extent,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page185" id="page185"></a>185</span>
+as in other places, and the coarse homespun
+garments are cleansed by a very simple process.</p>
+
+<p>Sheep, grazing upon many of the green pasture
+lands, form a homelike, peaceful scene which is very
+attractive. The air is fresh, yet balmy, imparting
+tone and vigor to the sturdy natives.</p>
+
+<p>At last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon
+the earth&rsquo;s surface, wondering if an earthquake or
+any other startling event will ever happen here to
+rouse it from its lethargy, and compel it to take its
+place in the march of the ages. If not, it will remain
+as of old, a boon to the artist, an infinite
+source from which he may draw quaint, ideal and
+most original studies of a people and an era whose
+counterpart has long since vanished from our
+everyday world.</p>
+
+<p>In our travels in the northern portion of Holland,
+and away from the larger cities, as Amsterdam and
+Rotterdam, which are more visited by tourists, we
+find that our letters of credit extend over an astonishing
+space of time, for a little money goes a long
+way among these people. The regions seem to be
+too remote for the regular tourist, and as there is no
+great influx of capital from that source, there is no
+inducement for the people to change their simple
+and primitive mode of living, hence honesty, frugality
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page186" id="page186"></a>186</span>
+and contentment reign here, and the visitor
+may enjoy to its full extent, the beautiful country
+and the pure, innocent life of its inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The quaint and simple town of Monnikendam
+lies some fifteen or sixteen miles north of Amsterdam,
+and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient
+associations. Eyes, ears and brain are almost bewildered
+by the exquisite strangeness of our surroundings.
+Here are houses with the date of their
+birth inscribed over the doorways, and the odd designs
+of bygone centuries still clinging to their
+walls.</p>
+
+<p>These ancient dates and the rich beauty of these
+aged tenements impress us with a feeling of awe,
+and we walk softly as we pass the hallowed ground
+upon which so many lives have risen, passed their
+little day, then vanished to make place for the next
+players. Of the two hotels which the town supports,
+we choose the oldest, the Hotel de Posthoorn,
+which derives its name from the fact that at an
+early date the building was used as a post office
+station. In those days the postman carried a horn,
+which he blew when approaching a station, as a
+notice to the townfolk to have their mail ready for
+collection, that he might not be detained, as his
+route was long and wearisome.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page187" id="page187"></a>187</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:461px; height:700px" src="images/img190.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Hotel de Posthoorn.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 186.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page188" id="page188"></a>188</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page189" id="page189"></a>189</span></p>
+
+<p>We are conducted to the second floor of the hotel
+by a steep and narrow stairway, which requires
+much ingenuity in the ascent, as the steps are constructed
+at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult
+to balance one&rsquo;s self upon them. We reach the top
+as gracefully as possible under the circumstances,
+and find two pleasant communicating rooms overlooking
+the main street. Rooms, beds and all our
+surroundings are wonderfully clean, and filled with
+an atmosphere of the past, which is very charming.
+The rates charged here are seven dollars a week for
+each person, and this includes meals and attendance:
+the latter simply a pleasant fiction, with no
+meaning whatever.</p>
+
+<p>The sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen
+of good quality, but emitting such an odor of antiquity,
+that there is no doubt whatever in our
+minds that they are heirlooms of many generations,
+and we wish that this genuine, ancient and unpleasant
+smell could be scattered abroad, or adulterated
+in some way, even to the extent of a pair of modern
+sheets, for concentrated age is more attractive
+in sights than in odors.</p>
+
+<p>Our hotel bears the date 1697 upon a fancifully
+carved tablet above the middle window, but the
+Stadhuis Tower is still older, dating back to 1592.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page190" id="page190"></a>190</span>
+The proprietor, his wife and daughter are pleasant,
+hospitable people, who make our stay with them,
+both comfortable and enjoyable. Before supper we
+stroll about the town, which consists of a main or
+central avenue, with small narrow streets diverging
+from it. As we walk along, a little crowd, composed
+chiefly of children, follows us closely.
+These young people stare at us, and laugh as
+though we are a freshly imported menagerie. On
+our return, we sit in front of the hotel where
+some chairs and small tables are placed for the convenience
+of those who wish to rest and sip their
+glass of beer or genuine Holland gin in the open.
+The favorite beverages in Holland are beer, porter
+and gin, the latter of an excellent quality, and genuinely
+&ldquo;old.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We are soon surrounded by a group of children,
+who watch our motions and by words and gestures
+freely express their wonder and amusement at the
+odd-looking stranger people. They seem greatly
+surprised that we do not understand their language:
+not even such simple phrases as &ldquo;Goeden avond,&rdquo;
+(Good-evening), or &ldquo;Ja,&rdquo; (Yes), and &ldquo;Nee,&rdquo;
+(No). When I make them understand that in
+English yes and no are the same as their ja and
+nee, they laugh immoderately, and repeat in their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page191" id="page191"></a>191</span>
+own broad accents, yes and no, as if greatly
+amused.</p>
+
+<p>After supper, which consists of cold fish, coffee,
+cheese, boiled potatoes and tea with a private nip
+of the real ancient Holland gin, we walk out again
+without a guide, to do some shopping. We have
+a funny experience, as we are compelled to resort
+to pantomime in making the various purchases.
+Entering a &ldquo;general&rdquo; store in search of candles, we
+at first ask for them in English: the good-natured
+shopwoman smiles and shakes her head. I repeat
+the word &ldquo;candles,&rdquo; at the same time going through
+the motion of striking a match on the counter, and
+holding it up to the end of my forefinger. This
+strange proceeding attracts the attention of a young
+man and woman, who draw near the counter, followed
+by several other members of the family, but
+I cannot make them comprehend. We then try the
+French language, but this also proves a failure, so
+we are obliged to depart without our candles, although
+I am confident they have them somewhere
+in the store.</p>
+
+<p>Scene after scene of this kind is gone through
+with in the different shops, and now our curious
+actions have attracted a large crowd of people who
+follow close at our heels, wondering what we will
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page192" id="page192"></a>192</span>
+do next, and thinking, no doubt, that we are a very
+good kind of free show. Such strange beings rarely
+visit their isolated town, and they are certainly enjoying
+their opportunity to its full extent. When
+we stop to look into a shop-window, they stop too,
+and follow our example like very shadows. The
+expression of wonder and merriment depicted on
+the countenances of both young and old is a fine
+study for an artist.</p>
+
+<p>As we saunter leisurely along, we espy a clothing
+store, which we enter, and find half-a-dozen men
+lounging about with long clay pipes in their mouths,
+and their hands in the pockets of their baggy
+trousers. Their faces wear a peaceful, contented
+expression, which changes to a look of surprise as
+we approach them, and they scan our attire, as
+something wholly different from anything to which
+they are accustomed. The gaping throng outside
+besieges the doorway. As the men still gaze curiously
+at us, I draw near the one who appears to be
+the proprietor of the establishment, and in pantomime,
+aided by English, interspersed with a little
+French, ask for a Marken suit of clothes. The man
+laughs and looks perplexed; his companions also
+shake their heads in token that they do not understand.
+With serious countenances and widely-opened
+eyes, they follow the motions of my lips
+and hands. Uttering slowly the words: &ldquo;Marken
+suit,&rdquo; I point to my own trousers, coat and vest.
+Their eyes follow my hands, first to my trousers,
+then to my coat and vest. It is a difficult position;
+but what a treat to watch their puzzled countenances,
+now smiling, now with a look of actual
+pain in their efforts to understand.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page193" id="page193"></a>193</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:463px; height:700px" src="images/img196.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 190.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page194" id="page194"></a>194</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page195" id="page195"></a>195</span></p>
+
+<p>At last my perseverance and their attention are
+rewarded, and the storekeeper takes from a shelf
+a dusty bundle, and carefully unfolds it. Within
+the bundle is a Marken suit: yes, the very kind I
+wish to possess, an entire woman&rsquo;s dress. I am
+anxious to purchase it at any reasonable figure.
+The garment is passed to us for inspection. We
+nod in indication that it is just what we desire.
+Now for the tug of war; the price. &ldquo;Combien?
+Combien?&rdquo; Finally thirty guilders is named as the
+price set upon the dress. We motion, &ldquo;Too high,&rdquo;
+and I point to the ceiling. The six weary men all
+look up in the direction of my finger: they smile,
+and think it is a good joke, and look at me as
+though saying: &ldquo;What next?&rdquo; They laugh
+heartily at my vain endeavors. Alas! How can
+I make them understand? &ldquo;Fifteen guilders,&rdquo; I
+say. The proprietor seems to understand. &ldquo;Nee.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page196" id="page196"></a>196</span>
+Nee. Ik kan het niet doen.&rdquo; (No. No. I cannot
+do it.)</p>
+
+<p>After long deliberation, still holding the cherished
+suit in his hands, he turns to his companions, and
+seems to ask their opinion. Several shake their
+heads and utter: &ldquo;Nee. Nee,&rdquo; others say: &ldquo;Ja.
+Ja.&rdquo; One suggests twenty-five guilders as the
+price; another twenty guilders. The bargaining
+goes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion,
+when to our relief a gentleman enters the shop who
+understands the language of these people. He has
+learned from the outsiders that some Americans are
+in the store trying to buy a suit of clothes. Through
+the kindness of this stranger, matters are speedily
+adjusted, and the sale effected, as he speaks both
+Dutch and English fluently. We purchase the complete
+suit for fifteen guilders, or about six dollars in
+the currency of the United States.</p>
+
+<p>These suits are rarely made for sale, but only
+when needed for immediate use. The natives of
+the island make them for personal wear, or for each
+other. Every man and woman generally owns two
+suits: one to wear every day, and one for Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>As we move toward the door to take our departure,
+after spending three-quarters of an hour
+over this transaction, we perceive that the throng
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page197" id="page197"></a>197</span>
+around the door has increased in numbers. What
+an assemblage! And we are the curiosities. I
+count them, and find there are thirty men, women
+and children, all full of excitement at the presence
+of strangers in Monnikendam. One young girl is
+so shy and timid, that as we advance toward her on
+our way out, she starts and runs hurriedly away,
+and gazes at us from a distance of some twenty
+feet, as though we are dangerous animals.</p>
+
+<p>We make several other purchases; partly because
+we desire the articles, but chiefly on account of our
+enjoyment of this novel mode of shopping.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page198" id="page198"></a>198</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page199" id="page199"></a>199</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img202.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;There is a young man whose walk is all his own.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 211.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page200" id="page200"></a>200</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page201" id="page201"></a>201</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Old Customs and
+Quaint Pictures.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page202" id="page202"></a>202</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page203" id="page203"></a>203</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:465px; height:700px" src="images/img206.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 211.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page204" id="page204"></a>204</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page205" id="page205"></a>205</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Old Customs and Quaint Pictures.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Segars and Tobacco&mdash;Row Boats&mdash;&ldquo;Goeden Morgan&rdquo;&mdash;The
+Zuyder Zee&mdash;By Candle Light&mdash;Total Darkness&mdash;The Town
+by Night&mdash;Women and Girls&mdash;Shoes and Stockings&mdash;The
+Shuffling Man&mdash;Streets and Sidewalks&mdash;The Town Crier&mdash;The
+Daily News&mdash;A Message to the People&mdash;Draught Dogs&mdash;Milkmaids&mdash;The
+Barber Shop&mdash;Drug Stores&mdash;&ldquo;Horretje&rdquo;&mdash;A
+Street Auction&mdash;Selling Curios&mdash;They Leave their Shoes
+at the Door&mdash;An Old Grist Mill&mdash;The Holland Draught Girl.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 100px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:52px; height:90px" src="images/img_i.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">N Holland, segars and tobacco of very good
+quality are sold at low prices: it is not uncommon
+to buy two segars for one cent
+(United States currency) and should you be
+detected smoking an article costing more than a
+penny, you are immediately stamped as a wealthy
+and extravagant personage. This reputation is
+easily acquired in a town of such thrifty habits as
+Monnikendam, and here my fondness for a good
+smoke lays me open to both charges.</p>
+
+<p>A row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day,
+if you do your own rowing; with a man to row,
+the charge is forty cents. We find it convenient to
+hire a man, who also serves as guide and interpreter,
+and who rows us to many lovely nooks and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page206" id="page206"></a>206</span>
+out-of-the-way spots, which we would otherwise
+miss seeing.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of the town are kind and hospitable,
+and we are charmed with their good,
+honest countenances. We are always greeted with
+a pleasant &ldquo;Goeden morgen,&rdquo; or &ldquo;Goeden avond,&rdquo;
+or it may be: &ldquo;Hoe staat het leven?&rdquo; (How are
+you?), when we pass them on the street.</p>
+
+<p>The country about here is principally farm land,
+with rich and abundant pasturage. A short distance
+from us is the placid Zuyder Zee, with its shining
+waters stretching eastward for miles. From its
+picturesque banks may be seen boats of every size
+and kind, from the tiniest row boat to craft of many
+tons&rsquo; burden, and it is interesting to observe from
+this point the busy life upon the water, as produce,
+farm implements and merchandise are carried to
+and fro.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page207" id="page207"></a>207</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img210.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 216.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page208" id="page208"></a>208</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page209" id="page209"></a>209</span></p>
+
+<p>As I sit writing in my room, by the light of a
+homemade candle, I now and then pause in my
+occupation to look around with an ever increasing
+wonder, at the dark old furniture over which the
+light casts a ghostly gleam. The spirit of the past
+seems lurking in the corners, with their long forgotten
+history, and around yonder ancient cupboard
+and brass trimmed chest of drawers. I can almost
+feel upon my shoulder the touch of the hand which
+has carried this quaint old candlestick in those olden
+days, and in imagination, hear the rustle of her
+gown as she stands behind me waiting for her own.
+It is ten o&rsquo;clock, and I walk to the window and
+draw aside the curtain, curious to see the life that is
+abroad in the town at this hour. To my astonishment
+there are no signs of life of any kind. The
+town lies in total darkness. There is not a glimmer
+of light anywhere, save the dim glow from a lantern
+dangling carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who
+moves slowly and quietly along the sidewalk.
+There is no other evidence of any living thing.
+Even the frogs and crickets, which enliven a night
+scene at home, are not heard here. Dead silence
+prevails, while</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Night, sable goddess, from her ebon throne,</p>
+<p class="i05">In rayless majesty now stretches forth</p>
+<p class="i05">Her leaden sceptre o&rsquo;er a slumbering world.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Even the stars are slumbering, or their sparkle has
+been engulfed by this all-devouring darkness. The
+light of my candle seems out of harmony with the
+peaceful repose around me: with a half-guilty feeling
+I extinguish it, and wrapping myself in sheets
+of Holland linen, am soon slumbering with the rest
+of the world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page210" id="page210"></a>210</span></p>
+
+<p>In the morning, when seated at the breakfast
+table, my first question to our host is as to the reason
+for such all-pervading darkness, and the absence
+of the townspeople from the streets at night.
+He tells me that it is so rare for any one to be abroad
+after nine o&rsquo;clock in the evening, that the street
+lamps, of which there are but few, are never
+lighted. At ten o&rsquo;clock every one is supposed to
+be at home and in bed.</p>
+
+<p>The women and girls of this and the neighboring
+towns are thrifty and industrious. When resting
+after their daily labors, whether at noon or in the
+evening, they will invariably take from their deep
+side-pockets a ball of thread or yarn, and with the
+short knitting needle, or the long ones of steel, continue
+their work on an unfinished stocking, cap or
+other article of wearing apparel.</p>
+
+<p>The prevailing foot-covering for men, women
+and children is a heavy woolen stocking; this fits
+the foot snugly, and protects it from the hardness
+of the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called.
+These shoes are carved from a single block of wood:
+when they are worn and shabby they are painted
+black, and a strap is placed across the instep. They
+are of all sizes, but only one style or pattern. In
+the larger cities, however, such as Rotterdam, one
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page211" id="page211"></a>211</span>
+can obtain from the manufacturers a painted wooden
+shoe, with buttons and stitches carved upon it as
+ornaments. But this variation is found only in
+men&rsquo;s shoes. In Holland the ordinary American
+slipper is frequently worn by both men and women.</p>
+
+<p>The clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an unpleasant
+sound, especially when several persons are
+walking together, but the ear soon becomes accustomed
+to it, as to all other odd noises. There is a
+young man in this place, who walks with a peculiar
+shuffle, all his own. He is so strange looking altogether
+that I snap my camera on him one day as he
+innocently passes by me. The peculiar sound of his
+walk has taught me to know that he is coming long
+before his figure is visible. I sometimes feel like
+telling him in the words of Byron, that</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+  <p class="i4">&ldquo;He has no singing education,</p>
+<p>An ignorant, noteless, timeless, tuneless fellow.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously
+clean, as the women of each household scrub not
+only their sidewalks, but half-way across the street
+in front of their dwellings. One may thus imagine
+what a charming and inviting place this is for the
+pedestrian.</p>
+
+<p>In this peaceful town where the golden rule is not
+simply a precept to frame and hang upon the wall,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page212" id="page212"></a>212</span>
+it is not necessary to employ officials with such high
+sounding but meaningless titles as &ldquo;Street Commissioner,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Director of the Highways,&rdquo; etc., etc.
+No, here each individual possesses sufficient honor
+and self-respect to accomplish his own share of
+municipal work, to the benefit and comfort of the
+whole community.</p>
+
+<p>There is one very ancient custom still existing
+here which interests and entertains us greatly. This
+is the old fashion of employing a town crier, who
+after beating a brass disk which is suspended by a
+cord from his shoulder, calls out in a loud, clear
+voice, the news of the day, events in foreign lands,
+transfers of property, sales and auctions which
+have already taken place or are to occur in the near
+future, lost and found articles and the like. For instance:
+he walks a distance of a block or two, then
+stops in the middle of the street, beats the brass
+disk vigorously with a small striker, and casting his
+head heavenward, utters the phrases which have
+been prepared and given to him in stereotyped
+tones. Thus the town receives its news, and the
+crier keeps those who never stir from their homes
+as well as the business men of the city informed of
+the most prominent events of their own and other
+countries. What better method could be employed
+in the absence of newspapers? The community is
+kept in touch with the outside world and with its
+own members by means of this odd and ancient
+custom.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page213" id="page213"></a>213</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img216.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;A street auction.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 220.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page214" id="page214"></a>214</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page215" id="page215"></a>215</span></p>
+
+<p>I have the pleasure of a personal association with
+the crier. Our party is so much annoyed by the
+continual staring of the people, who seem unable
+to become accustomed to our appearance in the
+town, and who follow us constantly day and evening
+when we walk upon the streets, that I decide
+to try some means to stop it. The proprietor of
+the hotel, at my request, adds another sentence to
+the daily bulletin; it runs as follows: &ldquo;The three
+Americans now stopping at the Posthoorn Hotel
+must not be annoyed by the good people of this
+town. It is not good manners to stare at them
+and follow them, and it is unpleasant to these
+strangers.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The day following my request, I listen anxiously
+for the voice of the crier, and his appearance in our
+neighborhood. Here he comes; and the message
+is rolled forth in sonorous tones. I seek the landlord
+and ask him if the notice is to be circulated
+throughout the town; and he replies in the affirmative.
+In justice to the inhabitants, I must state that
+they heed the request, and hereafter go on their way
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page216" id="page216"></a>216</span>
+without undue excitement or comment when we
+appear among them; much to our own comfort
+and enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>Few horses are seen upon these streets: wagons
+are drawn by two, three, or four huge draught
+dogs, trained for this purpose. Men are also frequently
+harnessed to wagons, as well as women,
+and sometimes a woman and dog will appear together
+drawing a load of merchandise.</p>
+
+<p>Milk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry
+on their shoulders a strong wooden yoke: from the
+ends of this the milk pails are suspended by ropes.
+Vegetables and other provisions are delivered in the
+same manner. The milkmaid passes from door to
+door, rapping on each with the ancient brass
+knocker, and serving her customer with the milk
+as it is served with us.</p>
+
+<p>The whole place is a succession of quaint and
+picturesque houses. The shapes are various, and
+the heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a
+charming effect as they stand in rows on either side
+of the street. Each house seems to possess an individual
+style of its own, and many are so old that
+they lean quite out of the perpendicular.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page217" id="page217"></a>217</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img220.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 223.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page218" id="page218"></a>218</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page219" id="page219"></a>219</span></p>
+
+<p>While travelling in Holland one is constantly confronted
+with a sign in the form of a wooden arm
+stretched from a doorway, with a brass disk suspended
+from it containing the words:</p>
+
+<p class="center f90">Hier scheert en snyd men het haar,</p>
+
+<p class="noind">which signifies that here one can be shaved and
+have his hair cut: in other words, it is the sign of a
+barber, who in America designates his calling by
+the gayly-colored pole. The brass disks in front
+of these places are polished to a high state of
+brilliancy, and being suspended so that they swing
+loosely in the breeze, they cast dazzling reflections
+in all directions which cannot fail to attract
+the attention of the passer-by. Another advertisement
+which differs greatly from those in our country
+is that of the drug store. While with us huge
+glass vases and globes of different colors are displayed
+in the window of the apothecary, in Holland
+a wooden head of a man in great agony, with protruding
+tongue, indicates that here the sufferer can
+find relief and medicine for all his aches and pains.
+This head is conspicuously placed over the entrance
+to the drug store.</p>
+
+<p>Another odd custom in this strange country is
+that of placing a large screen called a &ldquo;Horetje&rdquo; in
+the front windows of private houses, or on the first
+floors. The screen is sometimes shaped like a fan,
+sometimes it is heart-shaped or oval, and is intended
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page220" id="page220"></a>220</span>
+to protect the person seated at the door or window
+from the idle gaze of the pedestrian. Indeed it
+often hides a charming picture of maiden grace and
+modesty.</p>
+
+<p>One day as I am sitting at the door of the hotel
+attempting to sketch some of the picturesque houses
+in the neighborhood, with many wondering eyes
+directed toward my canvas, I notice a crowd of
+people beginning to gather a short distance off. I
+do not see the centre of attraction, but seizing my
+camera, which is my constant companion, together
+with pencils and brushes, which are as close friends
+as Robinson Crusoe and his man Friday, I hasten to
+the scene of action, feeling that probably something
+is going to happen which will add a new page to
+my experience. It is true: something interesting is
+about to take place; and that is a street auction, a
+common occurrence in this town. The auctioneer,
+perched above the heads of his audience upon an
+old wooden box, is calling out his sales in Dutch.
+The articles which he is about to dispose of to the
+highest bidders are dress goods, linen and wearing
+apparel. Much persuasion is necessary before a
+sale is effected, as the strong desire of the customers
+to obtain bargains is met by an equally strong determination
+on the part of the auctioneer to sell his
+stock at good prices. A funny sort of a seesaw is
+the result, which is the source of much merriment
+among the spectators. I join in some of these outbursts
+from pure sympathy, as most of the time I
+do not understand either the jokes or allusions. A
+lively business is frequently carried on at these
+auctions; but whether the purchaser really obtains
+more for his money than by the ordinary method of
+buying I cannot ascertain. I presume they think
+they have some advantage, or they would not flock
+to the sales in such numbers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page221" id="page221"></a>221</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img224.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 224.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page222" id="page222"></a>222</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page223" id="page223"></a>223</span></p>
+
+<p>An active branch of business here is the sale of
+curios, antique silverware, china, gold, jewels, and
+bric-a-brac; in fact ancient articles of every description.</p>
+
+<p>As we walk down the Main street, admiring the
+clean highway and lovely old houses on either side
+of us, we observe many pairs of wooden shoes
+lying in front of the different residences near the
+doorways, and upon inquiry learn that when one
+person goes to call upon another, he leaves his
+heavy wooden shoes outside the door, and enters in
+his stocking feet.</p>
+
+<p>At the farthest end of the street stands an old
+windmill with its huge arms moving slowly and
+regularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page224" id="page224"></a>224</span>
+blows across the Zuyder Zee. As we draw nearer,
+we see that it is an ancient grist mill, and here is the
+owner, who invites us in to view the interior, and
+with whom we have a pleasant chat in our own
+colloquial style, adopted since our arrival in this
+city. Dozens of windmills can be seen from this
+point, and, as I have already said, they are used for
+many different purposes. The foundation story is
+the home of the family, and in a number of these
+you will find quaint, delightful pictures of old
+Dutch interiors, with their odd chairs and dressers,
+ancient clocks and brass bound chests, old-fashioned
+china, and tiled fireplaces.</p>
+
+<p>There is a beautifully shaded walk just outside
+the town, encircling the whole city. Large trees
+here protect Monnikendam from the heavy wind
+and rain storms which come from the Zuyder Zee,
+when old Neptune rises in one of his dreadful
+tantrums. We enjoy this lovely walk, but what
+do we not enjoy in this town which surely has
+bound us by some magic spell; for the longer we
+stay here, the more loath we are to leave its borders.</p>
+
+<p>One day we take a boat and direct our course
+along one of the canals, on which there is considerable
+traffic. Here we behold the pitiable sight of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page225" id="page225"></a>225</span>
+two young girls, harnessed like mules, and attached
+to a lead rope, pulling inch by inch, and foot by
+foot, a large canal-boat filled with merchandise.</p>
+
+<p>I can imagine no harder work than this, for the
+poor creatures are exposed to the intense heat of
+the sun, with no protection against its direct rays,
+and they have a long slow journey before them, ere
+the heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by
+foot shall reach its destination. The toil of the factory
+girl in America is play when compared with
+that of the draught girl in Holland.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page226" id="page226"></a>226</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page227" id="page227"></a>227</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img230.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Land and water.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 224.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page228" id="page228"></a>228</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page229" id="page229"></a>229</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">A Dutch Cheese-making District.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page230" id="page230"></a>230</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page231" id="page231"></a>231</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:459px; height:700px" src="images/img234.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;A good road for the bicycle.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 239.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page232" id="page232"></a>232</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page233" id="page233"></a>233</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>A Dutch Cheese-making District.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>A Cheese-making Country&mdash;Edam Cheese&mdash;A Picturesque Inn&mdash;An
+Interesting Interior&mdash;A Thrifty Farmer&mdash;At Sunrise&mdash;In
+the Cow Stable&mdash;The Pretty Maid&mdash;Stall and Parlor&mdash;The
+Cheese Room&mdash;The Process of Making Cheese&mdash;&ldquo;I Have
+Listened and Listened&rdquo;&mdash;A Trip to Volendam&mdash;A Fine
+Country Road&mdash;A Charming Day&mdash;Muzzled Dogs&mdash;The Only
+Street&mdash;A Multitude of Children&mdash;Gay Decorations&mdash;A United
+People&mdash;As a Hen and Her Brood&mdash;Their Wealth is Health&mdash;In
+Sunday Dress&mdash;Stalwart Men and Sturdy Women&mdash;A
+Higher Type&mdash;&ldquo;I have enough&rdquo;&mdash;Fishermen&mdash;The Anchorage&mdash;A
+Volendam Suit.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:67px; height:90px" src="images/img_t.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">O-DAY we take the train for Edam, of
+world-wide fame as a cheese-making centre.
+This town, situated about five miles
+north of Monnikendam, abounds in beautiful
+old trees which protect it from the heat of the
+sun, and render it very attractive. All of these
+towns seem to possess individual interest, and the
+traveller is constantly surprised in this region by
+new and unexpected scenes: but the imprint of
+truth and honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in
+every town, village and settlement in Holland is observed
+as the common bond of union, and leads us
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page234" id="page234"></a>234</span>
+to understand the happiness and prosperity for
+which this region is justly celebrated.</p>
+
+<p>It is hardly necessary to say that many cheese
+factories are scattered throughout this section of the
+country. At one of these factories, located on the
+bank of the canal, we see a large barge being
+loaded with five thousand of the delicious Edam
+cheeses, intended for foreign markets. We stop
+for rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on
+the way. This house is a fine subject for an artist.
+The room in which our meal is served is in itself a
+masterpiece. The floor, composed of large stone
+flags, is spotlessly clean, and the walls are covered
+with odd pieces of china, evidently associated with
+family history: the woodwork is as white as soap
+and sand can make it, and the windows are as clear
+as crystal. In a corner stands the old Dutch clock,
+with the moon, now nearly full, represented above
+its time-worn face, and on one side is the dark
+dresser, rich in ancient plates, and other quaint old-fashioned
+crockery. The table at which we sit is
+covered with a snowy cloth of homespun linen, and
+the blue and white dishes with the stories upon
+them which have been thus told for unknown ages
+almost charm us into forgetfulness of our luncheon
+itself, until a healthy cheerful country girl appears,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page235" id="page235"></a>235</span>
+and with deft movements and smiling face places
+before us the appetizing cheese, delicious bread,
+freshly churned butter, and new milk as well as
+buttermilk. For this but a trifling charge is made,
+but we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old
+Dutch interior, the sight of these brass-bound chests
+and claw-footed chairs, and the picture of the cheerful
+Holland maid are worth many times the cost of
+the meal.</p>
+
+<p>We are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty
+farmer whose home is about a mile from Monnikendam.
+This well-to-do personage owns a large dairy
+farm, and learning that we are interested in this
+subject, invites us to be present at sunrise to witness
+the process of cheese-making. An early hour
+finds us on the way, and in good time a rap on the
+door of the farmhouse brings us into the presence
+of a bright middle-aged Dutch vrow, who with a
+cherry &ldquo;Goeden morgen&rdquo; bids us enter. We are
+first ushered into the parlor, which is a room of considerable
+size, immaculately clean, with comfortable
+chairs and sofas placed in various corners, and a
+supply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks
+that fill our hearts with longing. In a few moments
+we are invited to the adjoining room, which
+we suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room, but
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page236" id="page236"></a>236</span>
+to our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable, a
+spacious, well lighted apartment, about seventy feet
+long and fifteen feet wide. A row of stalls runs
+along one side of the room, and here stand as many
+of the genuine, full blooded Holstein cattle. They
+are handsome creatures, looking as sleek and clean
+as those which take the premiums at the state and
+county fairs at home. Here they stand, patiently
+awaiting the appearance of the milkmaid; not however
+the milkmaid, &ldquo;all forlorn&rdquo; of nursery rhyme,
+but in truth</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>The pretty maid with dress so clean,</p>
+<p>With shining pail and face serene,</p>
+<p>Who milks the cows with happy smile,</p>
+<p>And sings her joyous songs the while.</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The stalls are as sweet, clean and orderly as is the
+parlor which we have just left, and snowy curtains
+hang above the windows over them, the only apparent
+difference between the stable and the parlor
+being that the cattle stand upon fresh, fragrant
+straw, instead of a clean carpet. From the stable
+we are conducted to an adjoining building, which
+is the cheese factory, and to the room in which are
+assembled the farmer, his wife and two servants.
+Everything is in readiness: the fresh milk is poured
+into a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page237" id="page237"></a>237</span>
+and which is capable of holding about twenty gallons:
+a small quantity of rennet is put into the milk,
+and in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is
+passed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass.
+These sieves or curd-knives have handles by which
+they are held while the blades are drawn from side
+to side, cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes.
+Then the farmer&rsquo;s wife rolls up her sleeves, exposing
+to view a pair of round, shapely arms which
+would be the pride of a city belle, and dips both
+hands and arms deep in the floating mass. She
+presses, and kneads and rolls this thickening body
+until it assumes the consistency of dough: the whey
+is bluish in color, and as thin as water. This is
+drained off, and water is poured over the mass several
+times, until the cheese is thoroughly cleansed
+of all the floating particles. It is now ready to be
+placed in five pound moulds made of wood: the
+moulds are put into a powerful press which shapes
+the cheese, and extracts any lurking remnants of
+water. After about eight hours in the press, the
+cheeses are salted and placed on shelves to dry.
+Now for a month it is necessary to turn them every
+day, and after that, every other day for a month.
+They are also sponged with lukewarm water and
+dried in the open air, and the final process is a thin
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page238" id="page238"></a>238</span>
+coat of linseed oil. It is a tedious operation; great
+care is necessary to keep the chamber in which they
+are shelved perfectly clean and dry, and of an even
+temperature. At last the articles are ready for shipment
+to all parts of the world. This is an enormous
+industry: in North Holland alone, we are informed
+that twenty-six million pounds of cheese are produced
+per annum.</p>
+
+<p>The portion of the process witnessed by us occupies
+about an hour and a half: these cheeses are
+worth from the farmer&rsquo;s hands fifty or sixty cents
+apiece.</p>
+
+<p>There is a little boy ten or twelve years of age
+about here who seems to derive great pleasure from
+our society, although he cannot understand one
+word of English. One day, after sitting quietly for
+a long time, while we are conversing together, he
+repeats impatiently in his own language: &ldquo;I have
+listened and listened to your talk, and I cannot understand
+one word. I do not think you are talking
+sense at all.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Alas, poor child! You are not the only one who
+has listened and listened, trying in vain to find a
+gleam of intelligence in the foreigner&rsquo;s gibberish.
+Ignorance of the language of a nation causes
+it to appear to one like a vast sealed volume,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page239" id="page239"></a>239</span>
+which he knows only by the pictures on the title
+page.</p>
+
+<p>I have written at length of the Island of Marken,
+one of the most noted of the &ldquo;Dead cities of Holland,&rdquo;
+and now, let us take a peep at the sister city
+of Volendam, which lies four miles north of Monnikendam.
+As we do not wish to visit this place
+when all the men are off on their fishing expeditions,
+we choose for our excursion a clear bright
+Sunday, a day on which the men will surely be at
+home, and their sea horses at anchor in the harbor.</p>
+
+<p>Procuring a large carriage and a powerful horse,
+a difficult thing to obtain at short notice, we direct
+our driver to jog along slowly that we may enjoy
+the beauty of the surrounding country. We drive
+over a fine road, level and well ballasted; a good
+road for the bicycle: in fact all the roads of Holland,
+city and country, are kept in perfect condition.
+It is a charming day, and the balmy atmosphere
+and the refreshing breeze which sweeps over
+the Zuyder Zee have a soothing effect upon mind
+and body. This would be a great country for invalids,
+and those who seek rest and change from
+the demands of fashion and social life. There is
+no fashion here; only pure air and lovely peaceful
+beauty everywhere, with good wholesome food
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page240" id="page240"></a>240</span>
+and kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the
+weary stranger. Added to this is the very moderate
+cost of a sojourn in this delightful region.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally we pass a small cart or wagon
+drawn by dogs, the driver a young girl who is
+comfortably seated in the vehicle, now and then
+administering to the animals, by means of a short
+stick, reminders not to lag on the way. These
+dogs are not the ordinary house dog which is seen
+in our country; but are powerful and muscular
+creatures, as perhaps I have already said, and so
+cross and savage when roused, that to secure the
+safety of the persons near them they are closely
+muzzled. Being ignorant of their peculiar traits,
+one day while admiring a couple of fine draught
+dogs which are resting near a wagon, I approach
+them too closely; my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled
+as one of them springs viciously at me, striking me
+heavily on the chest, and he certainly would have
+chipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body
+had his muzzle not prevented this catastrophe.
+Hereafter I keep a distance of many feet between
+me and these animals, and others of their species.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page241" id="page241"></a>241</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:470px; height:700px" src="images/img244.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 243.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page242" id="page242"></a>242</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page243" id="page243"></a>243</span></p>
+
+<p>After a lovely drive of an hour, we arrive at the
+old town which is as wonderful and interesting as
+its sister city. It too is built upon the banks of the
+Zuyder Zee. We stand upon the only street in the
+place, which in appearance resembles the back
+bone of a whale, with small brick houses on either
+side. This strange looking highway runs lengthwise
+through the town. The street is narrow:
+horses and dogs are never seen upon it, but there
+are hundreds of children, who gather in great
+throngs around our horse, wondering at the strange
+animal, and declaring him to be a huge dog, for
+many of them have never seen a horse before. Our
+appearance is also a great event to them, and the
+visit creates as much excitement on one side as the
+other. It is a &ldquo;red letter day&rdquo; for both the townspeople
+and ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The houses are roofed with red tiles, which exhibit
+many different shapes and styles, and we perceive
+numerous flags floating from the windows,
+and decorations of gay bunting. Upon asking the
+reason of this festive appearance in the isolated and
+usually quiet city, we are informed that they are in
+honor of a wedding which is to take place within a
+few days. A wedding in this town is an occasion
+of great rejoicing, and every household enters into
+the spirit of the entertainment with enthusiasm, as
+the whole community resembles one large family,
+and from the least to the greatest, they are all well
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page244" id="page244"></a>244</span>
+known to each other. The affairs of one are the
+affairs of all, hence a single marriage becomes the
+festive occasion of the entire population. This is
+not strange when one recollects that the people
+have no other means of entertainment, such as
+theatres, concert halls or libraries, whist or euchre
+parties. They have nothing save the individual happenings
+in the domestic lives of the different families.</p>
+
+<p>A woman whose children are sitting quietly upon
+the curb stone near us, looks hurriedly around the
+door of her house, and seeing the commotion which
+our arrival excites, calls anxiously for her &ldquo;kids&rdquo;
+to come to her protecting arms, in mortal fear lest
+one of her brood should be carried off by these
+strange and unexpected visitors. As I look around,
+and behold the robust and muscular physiques of
+both men and women, I think any one would be
+daring indeed who would attempt to carry off a
+child or any other possession from these people in
+opposition to their wills.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page245" id="page245"></a>245</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:459px; height:700px" src="images/img248.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The houses are roofed with red tiles.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 243.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page246" id="page246"></a>246</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page247" id="page247"></a>247</span></p>
+
+<p>The women and children here are richly endowed
+with the blessings of health and strength. The
+whole population of thirteen hundred people employ
+but one doctor, who has time to grow rusty in
+his profession, so few are the demands upon his
+skill. I suggest to him on the occasion of a meeting,
+that he adopt the Chinese plan of remuneration,
+that is that the people pay him an annuity as
+long as they are well, and that when they are sick,
+they be entitled to his services gratis.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of Holland are not inclined to excesses
+of any kind, and they thus enjoy the full
+benefit of naturally sound constitutions, and are
+able to transmit to their children perfect, unimpaired
+health. As we stroll along this backbone of
+a street without name or pretensions, we stop at
+many of the doorways to talk with the residents,
+and soon become impressed with the hospitality of
+the people, who are arrayed in all the glory of their
+Sunday finery, and appear at the fronts of their
+homes happy in the consciousness that they as well
+as all their surroundings are in &ldquo;apple pie order.&rdquo;
+We are as much interested in them as they are in
+us, and that is saying a great deal.</p>
+
+<p>The great, stalwart fellows with their broad
+shoulders and rugged faces are indeed true types of
+all that is brave and manly. A loose shirt and
+baggy trousers, with a small cloth cap is the ordinary
+costume of the men, many of whom wear
+wooden shoes; leather slippers are also worn. The
+women are equally brave and strong in appearance,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page248" id="page248"></a>248</span>
+and as large in proportion as the men. Their sturdy
+forms and healthy faces are rare models for the
+artist&rsquo;s brush. Their dress is of homespun linen,
+generally dyed blue, and is composed of several
+pieces; sometimes these are of various colors combined
+in a picturesque and effective arrangement.
+The head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becoming:
+indeed many of our fashionable belles might
+greatly improve their appearance by adopting the
+charming coiffure of these pretty and apparently unconscious
+Holland girls and women. These people
+represent a higher type of humanity than the inhabitants
+of Marken: their intelligence and refinement
+are more marked, but they have the sunny
+temperaments and contented dispositions characteristic
+of the Hollanders, and though ignorant of the
+customs of the outside world, and limited in their
+lives to a narrow sphere, they are a happy and
+satisfied people. They seem in that happy state of
+mind, so rarely possessed, in which they can say
+<i>I have enough</i>. Happiness consists not in possessing
+much, but in being content with what we possess.
+He who wants little always has enough.</p>
+
+<p>These men, like those in the neighboring Island
+of Marken, obtain their livelihood by fishing. They
+leave their homes in small boats or yachts every
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page249" id="page249"></a>249</span>
+Monday morning, and do not return until late
+Saturday night, allowing them but one day in the
+week, Sunday, to spend in their homes. Close by
+us is the anchorage, so called from the fact that
+dozens of fishing boats anchor within its harbor. I
+suppose that fully a hundred of these yachts are
+lying there now, and, shifting from side to side as
+the wind stirs the waters of the Zuyder Zee, present
+the appearance of a city of masts in a hurricane.</p>
+
+<p>As we wander about it occurs to me that I should
+like to become the possessor of one of the odd and
+picturesque suits of clothing worn here; especially
+one of the better kind of the men&rsquo;s suits, for I know
+that this quaint and ancient dress would be interesting
+to a number of friends far away in dear America.
+Filled with the idea, I stop many of the natives, and
+through our good and genial friend Mr. L&mdash;&mdash; inquire
+if it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit
+of clothing, and suggest that if they have none
+themselves to sell, perhaps one of their comrades
+would part with a suit in exchange for my bright
+guilders. We talk to a great many men, but receive
+the same answer from all: that is that each
+possesses but two suits; a best or Sunday suit, and
+a week-day or fishing suit, neither of which it is
+possible to sell for any price that I may offer. I ask
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page250" id="page250"></a>250</span>
+again if there is not some one else among the men
+who may be willing to oblige me, and learn that
+most of the men and women are in church, but that
+if we will wait until the service is over, we can talk
+with them, and may succeed in our quest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page251" id="page251"></a>251</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Volendam Sights and the
+Oldest Town on the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page252" id="page252"></a>252</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page253" id="page253"></a>253</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:459px; height:700px" src="images/img256.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 256.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page254" id="page254"></a>254</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page255" id="page255"></a>255</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on
+the Rhine.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Church is out&mdash;The Promenade&mdash;Every man is a Volume&mdash;An
+Old Suit&mdash;His Sunday Clothes&mdash;&ldquo;Let him have it&rdquo;&mdash;An
+Obedient Son&mdash;The Silver Buttons&mdash;The Last Straw&mdash;An
+Uncommon Action&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;An Artist&rsquo;s Resort&mdash;An Unfinished
+Painting&mdash;Good-bye&mdash;The Ancient City of Cologne&mdash;The
+Cathedral&mdash;Within the &ldquo;Dom&rdquo;&mdash;A Wonderful Collection&mdash;Foundation
+of the Town&mdash;History&mdash;Vicissitudes&mdash;Public
+Gardens&mdash;Eau de Cologne&mdash;The Palace of Brühl.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 140px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:92px; height:90px" src="images/img_w.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">ITHIN a short time we perceive a large
+number of people slowly advancing in
+our direction. Church is over, and it is
+customary after the service for every
+one to promenade up and down this street. Here
+friends and relatives greet each other, exchange
+items of local interest and have their little gossips
+over family affairs. The sight is one long to be remembered.
+The round weather-beaten faces of
+the men, as they roll along in true sailor fashion,
+the merry chattering women and girls in their
+picturesque costume, the children running hither
+and thither, and the gayly decorated houses that line
+the long street are worthy the brush of an artist.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page256" id="page256"></a>256</span></p>
+
+<p>Truly these people seem to practice the Golden
+Rule, for no one appears to be thinking of himself,
+but every one cares for the comfort and happiness
+of his family, friends or neighbors. The delicate
+lace caps of the women frame smiling faces, and
+the maidens in their quaint homespun gowns look
+as though they are a part of a play at one of our
+theatres. As the congregation draws nearer, we
+halt before the foremost group, and having attracted
+their attention by our novel appearance, ask through
+our friend Mr. L&mdash;&mdash;, the oft-repeated question
+about the suit of Volendam clothes, which we are
+anxious to carry home to show our friends in
+America. In an instant they all shake their heads
+in the negative, looking very serious at the idea of
+such a proposition. Their manly and straightforward
+manner charms me. I look into the open
+countenances, in which there is much individuality,
+and say to myself: it is as true here as in the great
+cities of the world that <i>Every man is a volume if
+you know how to read him.</i> There is a story in the
+heart of each one of these sturdy fishermen, whether
+it has seen the light of day or not, and many a noble
+deed and heroic action that in another town
+would receive a medal of honor, or at least the applause
+of the public, passes here as a common incident
+of everyday life. These people do not live
+for show: the only medals which they wear, and
+which they transmit to their children are the records
+of pure, honest lives which are proudly handed
+down from one generation to another.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page257" id="page257"></a>257</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img260.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the foremost group.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 256.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page258" id="page258"></a>258</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page259" id="page259"></a>259</span></p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile I stand before them watching the
+varying expressions and wondering if there is any
+prospect of obtaining my desire. At last one man
+says hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home
+that he no longer wears, and if we will accompany
+him to his house, a few doors away, he will show it
+to us. We turn and follow him, and a score or
+more of the people follow us. What must an old
+suit look like in this thrifty community where the
+men and women never discard anything until it is
+utterly hopeless as regards service?</p>
+
+<p>A suit which one of these is willing to dispose of
+must indeed be a peculiar object. I wonder if it
+has that &ldquo;ancient and fish-like smell,&rdquo; described by
+Shakespeare. The fates forbid! Perhaps it is a
+relic of a beloved father or grandfather, handed
+down as a family heirloom. We enter the house,
+still surrounded by curious spectators, and our
+obliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-wrapped
+bundle, which upon being opened discloses
+a worn and aged suit: unfortunately its age
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page260" id="page260"></a>260</span>
+does not add to its beauty or value as in the cases
+of old masterpieces in art, as a painting by Murillo
+or Rembrandt. The clothes are old, dirty, and
+faded, and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman,
+but they do not fail to serve their purpose, for
+while this young athlete holds them out, with an
+expression of pride and pleasure, a sudden thought
+fills me with hope. The suit which this young
+man wears is of the highest type of the Volendam
+fashion, and is quite new. The flannel blouse with
+its gay undervest showing at the chest, and the
+baggy brown velveteen trousers form an ideal
+specimen of the costume of these people. I must
+have this suit. No other will answer my purpose.
+Without preliminaries, I boldly propose to him to
+sell me the suit he wears, and put on the old one
+until he can procure another. His countenance
+falls, and with a look of positive fear, he draws
+back, shaking his head and repeating: &ldquo;Nee. Nee.
+Nee.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Then he moves farther away, as though in terror
+lest I then and there strip him of his garments. He
+cannot sell the suit, he says, especially as the wedding
+festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon
+to take place. In a corner of the room, quietly
+smoking a clay pipe, sits the old father, watching
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page261" id="page261"></a>261</span>
+without a word the little drama taking place before
+him. As the boy reiterates his refusal, the man
+talks to him in expostulatory tones, and as we
+learn, says: &ldquo;The gentleman from America is a
+good man. Let him have the suit: you shall have
+another.&rdquo; At this advice the son, though looking
+rather sulky, yields, and withdrawing to the adjoining
+room, exchanges the suit he wears for the old
+one, and returns with the desire of my heart rolled
+up and wrapped in a clean paper. The evidence of
+good will on the part of the parent, and the obedience
+of the son charm me even more than the possession
+of the coveted garments. The boy is a
+noble lad. As we are about leaving, I suddenly
+espy the silver coin buttons which are such an ornament
+to the dress, and which are considered a
+mark of distinction, when worn by old or young.
+They are rare and valuable decorations, being buttons
+made of coins, and held together by a link, as
+our sleeve-buttons. They are worn in the bands
+of the trousers and shirts, serving the purpose of
+suspenders.</p>
+
+<p>The coins are brilliantly polished and present a
+striking appearance. They are generally heirlooms,
+and some of them are of very ancient date.</p>
+
+<p>In general they are cherished as treasures beyond
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page262" id="page262"></a>262</span>
+price: these worn by the boy are exceedingly rare,
+and are more than a hundred years old, having belonged
+to his great-grandfather. The outer and
+larger coins are three guilder pieces, the smaller
+ones one guilder.</p>
+
+<p>To ask for these is indeed the &ldquo;last straw,&rdquo; and
+when the father requests his son to put them in the
+bundle with the clothing, he bursts into tears, and
+his hands tremble as he gives them to me.</p>
+
+<p>For this final test of obedience I thank him heartily,
+and bestow upon him a liberal reward for the
+sacrifice, together with much praise. As he looks
+at the guilders with which I have filled his hand,
+his countenance brightens, and the rainfall is
+changed into radiant sunshine. The neighbors
+look on this scene with surprise, and many of them
+declare that this is a very uncommon occurrence in
+Volendam, as they have never known any one
+heretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a foreigner.
+It is unnecessary to say that I also value
+the coins beyond price, and treasure them for their
+association, and the interesting picture which they
+never fail to bring before me.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page263" id="page263"></a>263</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:461px; height:700px" src="images/img266.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Every man is a volume if you know how to read him.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 256.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page264" id="page264"></a>264</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page265" id="page265"></a>265</span></p>
+
+<p>There is but one hotel in the place, and thither
+we resort. It is a small building without pretensions,
+containing about ten rooms, of no great size,
+but clean and comfortable. We learn that board
+and accommodations may be had here for four guilders
+(one dollar) a day. This hotel has entertained
+artists from all parts of the world. The good-natured
+landlord will do everything in his power to
+make his guests comfortable. In the general sitting-room
+or parlor, there is abundant evidence that
+these efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful
+paintings presented to him by some of the most
+famous artists of our day. He is a loyal upholder
+of art and artists. His daughter, a fresh looking
+maiden, is so much pleased when I say that I too,
+am an artist and photographer, that she insists upon
+taking me up to the third floor to see the fine view
+from the windows which overlook the Zuyder Zee.
+She also shows me a room which was fitted up for
+a lady artist from New York. Here is an unfinished
+picture upon the easel, of an old Volendam woman,
+in her fancy cap and bright colored homespun costume.</p>
+
+<p>This secluded spot offers many attractions for
+both brush and camera in interesting studies of
+figures and landscape, as well as charming water
+scenes. We would gladly spend a longer time
+amid these delightful pictures, but it is impossible,
+so we take our departure amid a hundred good
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page266" id="page266"></a>266</span>
+wishes, and as we drive away, the inhabitants who
+have gathered from all parts of the town to see the
+queer Americans, call after us: &ldquo;Goeden dag,&rdquo; and
+&ldquo;Tot weerziens,&rdquo; (Until we meet again). A dozen
+or more children run by the side of the carriage
+shouting and laughing for a considerable distance.
+And so we bid farewell to a hearty and attractive
+people and their quaint surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>Let us take a somewhat hasty glance at Cologne,
+the oldest city on the Rhine, and one of the largest
+towns in the Rhenish Province of Prussia. We
+cannot afford to miss this town, were it only on
+account of the great Cathedral whose lofty towers
+rise heavenward to a height of five hundred and
+twelve feet. How one longs to find himself within
+these sacred walls, to stand and gaze upon the
+wondrous arches, pillars, and dome, the stained
+glass and statues, the frescoes and carving, the work
+of an endless succession of artists and artisans.
+Next to St. Peter&rsquo;s at Rome, this Cathedral is the
+largest church in the world. It stands upon the old
+Roman camping ground, and more than six centuries
+have passed since its foundations were laid. The
+name of its architect is unknown, and even the
+original designs have been forgotten. Its interior is
+four hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred
+and forty feet broad. The portion appropriated to
+divine service covers an area of seventy thousand
+square feet. It is useless to attempt to describe this
+vast structure whose buttresses, turrets, gargoyles,
+canopies and tracery are innumerable and bewildering.
+The Gothic arches and countless pillars form
+a grand perspective. There are seven chapels
+which present a wealth of paintings, and relics.
+In the Chapel of the Three Magi is a marvellous
+casket of crystal, whose cover is set with precious
+stones, which is said to contain the skulls of Caspar,
+Melchior and Balthazar, the three Wise Men from
+the East who followed the star to the cradle of the
+infant Christ.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page267" id="page267"></a>267</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:441px; height:700px" src="images/img270.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Goeden dag. Tot weerziens.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 266.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page268" id="page268"></a>268</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page269" id="page269"></a>269</span></p>
+
+<p>In the great treasury of the Cathedral are untold
+treasures. Here are silver censers, paintings set in
+diamonds, shrines of silver, and rare and priceless
+relics of every description, besides gold and silver
+chalices, fonts, and other church vessels, and a collection
+of magnificent vestments.</p>
+
+<p>Many are the vicissitudes through which this wonderful
+structure has passed, since its commencement
+in 1248. At times it seemed abandoned to ruin,
+then again the work was taken up and vast sums of
+money contributed, and the masterpiece of Gothic
+architecture was carried on toward completion, until
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page270" id="page270"></a>270</span>
+once more the money was exhausted. It seems
+as though the old legend of the architect who sold
+his soul to the devil in exchange for the plan of the
+edifice must have some foundation, for tradition relates
+that Satan was finally outwitted by the architect,
+and in revenge vowed that the Cathedral
+should never be finished, and the architect&rsquo;s name
+be forgotten. Immense fortunes have been expended
+upon it by monarchs and others of the faithful.
+The great southern portal alone cost half a
+million dollars: the bells in the south tower, the
+largest of which was cast in 1874, from the metal
+of French guns, weighs twenty-five tons. The
+combined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are required
+to set it in motion. The next two in point of size,
+cast in 1447 and 1448, weigh respectively eleven
+and six tons. The magnificent stained glass windows
+were contributed by famous and royal donors,
+such as the Emperor Frederick III., Archbishop Von
+Daun, Archbishop Von Hessen, King Lewis I. of
+Bavaria, Emperor William I., and many others. A
+number of these were executed as far back as 1508.</p>
+
+<p>Few structures can compete with this in beauty,
+grace and elegance of form. How solemn is the
+atmosphere within these ancient walls! How impressive
+the picture of this apparently boundless interior!
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page271" id="page271"></a>271</span>
+In one of the great pillars is a flight of one
+hundred steps, which leads to a gallery extending
+across the transept, and still nearly forty steps
+higher one reaches the gallery which makes the
+tour of the whole Cathedral, and upon this one has a
+beautiful view of the city of Cologne, the Rhine and
+the surrounding country. Within the church there
+is a corresponding gallery, from which the visitor
+may observe the interior decorations, and from the
+loftiest gallery of all, there is a vast and delightful
+panorama which includes river and country as far
+as the eye can see. What can be more beautiful
+than this scene? Where can one find a grander,
+more solemn atmosphere than within these walls
+where the spirits and the hands of men have worked
+for ages? Where can he experience more lofty aspirations
+toward</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The glorious Author of the universe</p>
+<p class="i05">Who reins the minds, gives the vast ocean bounds,</p>
+<p class="i05">And circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds&rdquo;?</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The city of Cologne was founded by the Ubii at
+the time when they were compelled by Agrippa to
+migrate from the right to the left bank of the Rhine,
+(<span class="scs">B. C.</span> 38). In <span class="scs">A. D.</span> 51, Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus,
+and mother of Nero, founded here a colony
+of Roman veterans which at first was called Colonia
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page272" id="page272"></a>272</span>
+Agrippinensis, and afterward Colonia Claudia
+Agrippina. In 308 Constantine the Great began a
+stone bridge over the Rhine to Deutz. From the end
+of the fifth century Cologne belonged to the Franks
+and was long occupied by the Ripuarian kings.
+Charlemagne raised the bishopric which had been
+founded here in the fourth century to an archbishopric,
+the first archbishop being the imperial chaplain
+Hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church,
+and presented to it a valuable library which still
+exists.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The noble city has passed through many vicissitudes,
+and it was not until after 1815 under Prussian
+rule that it began to enjoy a degree of permanent
+prosperity. The rapid progress of its steamboat
+and railway systems, and the enterprise of the citizens,
+many of whom possess great wealth, have
+combined to make Cologne the centre of the Rhenish
+trade, and one of the most considerable commercial
+cities in Germany.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The town is built with long narrow streets curving
+in semicircles toward the river. Its sidewalks
+have the peculiarity of frequently dwindling away
+until only a few feet in width. The great Cathedral
+tower may be seen for miles, reaching far above
+the surrounding buildings. Cologne is a city of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page273" id="page273"></a>273</span>
+legends and relics: old and historic buildings dating
+back many centuries are scattered in all directions,
+and here the visionary, the lover of myth and legend,
+can find abundant food for his imagination. The
+great and valued possessions of the city are the
+bones of the eleven thousand virgins. This is the
+legend: Fourteen hundred years ago, St. Ursula
+and eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage
+to Rome, and returning were all slain by the Huns.
+Their bones were gathered together and brought to
+Cologne, where they were buried, and later the
+church of St. Ursula, now nearly nine hundred
+years old, was built over their tomb. Within this
+church the bones of the virgins are enclosed in stone
+caskets, with apertures through which they may
+be seen. The skulls are covered with needlework
+and ornamented with pearls and precious stones.</p>
+
+<p>Among other relics, is also to be found here the
+alabaster vase or rather one of the vases, in which
+the Saviour turned the water into wine at the marriage
+in Cana. The vase or jar is evidently a very
+ancient article: it is much cracked, and one handle
+is broken off. There are many points of interest in
+this old city, for here are museums, gardens, galleries
+and churches, and always the picturesque
+river with its countless views and pleasure trips.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page274" id="page274"></a>274</span></p>
+
+<p>If one is weary of these legendary stories, or even
+of sightseeing itself, let him rest with me in one of
+the many public gardens, listening to the charming
+music of a good orchestra.</p>
+
+<p>There are skilled musicians in these gardens, and
+their selections are always well rendered. No loud
+or idle conversation is indulged in during these recitals.
+Should any such breach of good manners
+occur, the transgressors are requested to observe
+the rule of the garden, and if the offence is repeated,
+they are ejected from the premises. The
+Germans, being such lovers of good music, tolerate
+no other in their gardens. There is no admission
+fee, but the expenses are supposed to be met by the
+sale of beer, wine, pretzels and Frankfurt sausages.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Cologne I must not forget to mention
+the refreshing perfume which has made this
+city famous all over the world. The celebrated
+Eau de Cologne is said to have been invented by
+Jean Antoine Marie Farina of Domodossola in the
+year 1709. One could almost bathe in the perfume
+here for the money it would cost to filter our muddy
+Philadelphia water. There is an enormous quantity
+of it manufactured, and almost every store seems
+to have it for sale.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page275" id="page275"></a>275</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:463px; height:700px" src="images/img278.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Palace of Brühl.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 277.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page276" id="page276"></a>276</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page277" id="page277"></a>277</span></p>
+
+<p>A short distance from Cologne, or Köln as the
+Germans call it, is the almost forsaken station of
+Brühl. I would advise the tourist to alight here,
+and take a close view of the imperial palace
+known as the Palace of Brühl, a handsome building
+erected about the year 1725. As we advance
+toward the beautiful and spacious grounds, it is
+not difficult to imagine the magnificent structure
+looming up in the distance as the home of royalty.
+The approach to the palace is studded with marble
+statues, and the palace itself is a classic example of
+the French and German rococo style of architecture;
+from it radiate many lovely walks and bowery
+avenues which are adorned with fine statuary.
+Here too are velvet lawns, noble trees and glowing
+flower beds, and should one wish to view the interior
+of this elegant palace, he will find that some
+of the rooms are open to visitors.</p>
+
+<p>Our stay within is necessarily brief. Retracing
+our steps to the station, we take the train, and are
+carried swiftly toward the old town of Bonn.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page278" id="page278"></a>278</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page279" id="page279"></a>279</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">Along the Banks of the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page280" id="page280"></a>280</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page281" id="page281"></a>281</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img284.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Lovely walks and bowery avenues.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 277.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page282" id="page282"></a>282</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page283" id="page283"></a>283</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>Along the Banks of the Rhine.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Bonn&mdash;The Birthplace of Beethoven&mdash;The Museum&mdash;Monument&mdash;A
+Famous Restaurant&mdash;College Students&mdash;Beer Mugs&mdash;Special
+Tables&mdash;Affairs of Honor&mdash;Königswinter&mdash;Magnificent
+Views&mdash;Drachenfels&mdash;The Castle&mdash;The Dombruch&mdash;Siegfried
+and the Dragon&mdash;A Desecrated Ruin&mdash;The Splendor
+of the Mountains&mdash;Many Visitors&mdash;View from the Summit&mdash;The
+Students&rsquo; Chorus&mdash;German Life&mdash;A German Breakfast&mdash;The
+Camera&mdash;Old Castles and Lofty Mountains&mdash;Legends of
+the Rhine&mdash;The Waters of the Rhine&mdash;Vineyards.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:67px; height:90px" src="images/img_t.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">HIS town like its sister cities is of ancient
+foundation, having been one of the first
+Roman fortresses on the Rhine. It is the
+seat of a university which attracts students
+from all parts of the world. It is a prosperous
+looking place with pleasant villas on the river banks,
+and ancient picturesque houses. There are lovely
+shaded walks in the public gardens, and a fine view
+from the Alte Zoll, but the chief interest of the
+town for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace
+of Beethoven. In a small unpretentious house the
+great musician was born in 1770, and here were
+composed many of those wonderful harmonies
+which have thrilled the souls of lovers of music all
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page284" id="page284"></a>284</span>
+over the world. The room in which this noble
+genius first saw the light of day is in the top of the
+house, a garret ten feet by twelve in size, and contains
+no furniture whatever: nor is it necessary to
+remind those who enter it, by aught save the
+wreath of green which lies peacefully upon the
+floor, that the spirit whose earthly tabernacle dwelt
+here breathed forth the fire of heaven.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Creative genius. From thy hand</p>
+  <p class="i1">What shapes of order, beauty rise,</p>
+<p class="i05">Where waves thy potent, mystic wand,</p>
+  <p class="i1">To people ocean, earth and skies.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>In an adjoining room are stored some pieces of
+furniture which belonged to Beethoven, and the
+piano used by him in the composition of some of
+his most famous sonatas. Some of the ladies of
+our party are permitted to play upon this sacred instrument.
+Do they hope to be inspired by the
+magic spell of the master&rsquo;s touch still lingering
+among the keys? The dwelling has been purchased
+by lovers of the celebrated composer, and fitted up as
+a Beethoven Museum. Not far off stands the statue
+of the artist and the monument dedicated to him.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Bonn, we visit the famous restaurant
+which is the nightly resort of the students during
+the college term. The spacious rooms composing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page285" id="page285"></a>285</span>
+this café communicate with each other by a
+wide and lofty doorway. The furniture consists
+of bare wooden tables, a long counter, and dozens
+of shabby chairs which look as if they have seen
+hard service. The corpulent and jovial proprietor
+informs us that these rooms are filled to overflowing
+with both gay and serious students every night
+in the week, and that here, notwithstanding the
+ofttimes boisterous merriment, questions of grave
+import are often discussed, together with all the
+current topics of interest; and that speeches are
+made brilliant enough for publication in the daily
+papers. Here the young orator first tests his powers,
+and in all his future career, he will find no more
+critical audience than this composed of his fellow-students.
+Here too are nights given up to fun and
+jollity, to college songs and wild and reckless mirth,
+when there is not a serious countenance among the
+crowd.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;He cannot try to speak with gravity,</p>
+<p class="i05">But one perceives he wags an idle tongue;</p>
+<p class="i05">He cannot try to look demure, but spite</p>
+<p class="i05">Of all he does he shows a laugher&rsquo;s cheek;</p>
+<p class="i05">He cannot e&rsquo;en essay to walk sedate,</p>
+<p class="i05">But in his very gait one sees a jest</p>
+<p class="i05">That&rsquo;s ready to break out in spite of all</p>
+<p class="i05">His seeming.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page286" id="page286"></a>286</span></p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of voices make the roof ring with tuneful
+harmony: choruses, glees and comic ballads
+follow each other, interspersed with jokes and puffs
+at pipes and sips of beer, for the German student
+is a</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Rare compound of oddity, frolic and fun,</p>
+<p class="i05">To relish a joke and rejoice at a pun.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Pounds of poor tobacco are smoked, and gallons
+of good beer consumed at these gatherings, and the
+landlord is always on the side of the boys when
+there is any trouble, and rejoices in all their collegiate
+honors and their success in every other line.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the shelves above the tables are long rows
+of individual beer mugs, with the owners&rsquo; names or
+crests conspicuously painted in gay colors upon
+them. These mugs vary in capacity from a pint to
+two quarts, and the host assures me gravely that
+many of the students drain even the largest ones
+nine or ten times in the course of an evening. I
+ponder, as he speaks, upon the wonderful power
+of expansion of the human stomach which performs
+this feat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page287" id="page287"></a>287</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:472px; height:700px" src="images/img290.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Not far off stands the statue of the artist.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 284.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page288" id="page288"></a>288</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page289" id="page289"></a>289</span></p>
+
+<p>As a natural consequence of this enormous appetite
+for beer, one sees in the restaurants in many of
+the German cities an especial table constructed with
+a deep semicircular curve in the side, which allows
+the corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage
+in comfortable proximity to the bottle. Such as
+these must have been in Shakespeare&rsquo;s mind, when
+he wrote: &ldquo;He was a man of an unbounded
+stomach.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many
+of the students, are matters of great pride with
+them, as evidences of the number of &ldquo;affairs of
+honor&rdquo; in which they have been engaged. They
+look with scorn upon the fellow collegian whose
+countenance does not display one or more of these
+signs of bloody combat, and are always ready to
+seize an occasion of this kind for the exhibition of
+their bravery or their skill at arms. Sometimes
+these duels are a result of the silliest arguments, at
+others they are sought by deliberate insult given by
+the one who wishes to fight. A glance is sometimes
+sufficient for a sanguinary meeting.</p>
+
+<p>Will they ever learn that no stain can ever be
+washed out with blood, no honor redeemed by the
+sword, no moral bravery displayed by an encounter
+of this kind? It is falling to the level of the brute,
+with perhaps a little more skill evinced in the choice
+of the weapons of warfare. It cannot but detract
+from the dignity of the human being, and this is
+true to a far greater extent in the case of those who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page290" id="page290"></a>290</span>
+entertain themselves by witnessing such unnatural
+sports as prize fights, cock fights, and most degrading
+of all, but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized
+countries, the bull fight;&mdash;all relics of barbarism.</p>
+
+<p>Let us leave this unpleasant subject, however, and
+allow ourselves to be spirited away to a veritable
+fairy land of beauty, and quaint legendary associations.
+The little town of Königswinter nestles at
+the foot of the Seven Mountains, from which there
+are innumerable views of the Rhine and the surrounding
+country. A halo of romance surrounds
+this region, and in the many excursions from this
+point, the lover of the <span class="correction" title="amended from wierd">weird</span> and visionary will
+find his every step accompanied by imaginary
+maidens of rare grace and beauty, brave knights,
+crafty priests, wild huntsmen, cruel dragons, super-human
+heroes, and all the wonderful personages of
+legendary lore. The town is a thriving, modern
+looking place of about thirty-five hundred inhabitants,
+excluding the floating population of tourists
+who throng the hotels and scatter themselves
+among the private families.</p>
+
+<p>We arrive here early in the afternoon, and establish
+ourselves in a comfortable and attractive hotel.
+The day is clear and pleasant, and desiring to make
+good use of the hours of daylight before us, we determine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page291" id="page291"></a>291</span>
+to make the ascent of the Drachenfels.
+There are a number of different routes or paths, by
+which one may reach the summit of this mountain
+on foot; or, should the tourist prefer to ride, he can
+use the Mountain Railway which approaches the
+top in a line almost straight. Protected by stout
+shoes, carrying wraps, and armed with long and
+strong wooden staffs, we walk slowly along the
+mountain road, pausing at intervals to gaze upon
+the beautiful scenes which surround us in every
+direction. The great peak known as the Drachenfels
+or Dragon rock, in which from the river a vast
+cavern may be seen, owes its name to the numerous
+legends which are connected with it. In the cave,
+it is said, lived a terrible monster who daily demanded
+of the people the sacrifice of a young
+maiden, who was bound and decorated with flowers,
+and placed near the entrance to his lair. Siegfried
+slew the dragon and by bathing in his blood,
+became invulnerable. The maiden whose life he
+thus saved was Hildegarde, the beautiful daughter
+of the Lord of Drachenfels, whom he afterward
+married and bore to the castle whose crumbling and
+picturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag,
+fifteen hundred feet above the Rhine. This castle
+was once a mighty stronghold of the robber chieftains;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page292" id="page292"></a>292</span>
+its foundation is associated with Arnold,
+Archbishop of Cologne at the beginning of the
+twelfth century, who in 1149 bestowed it upon the
+Cassius Monastery at Bonn. It was held as a fief by
+the counts of the castle.</p>
+
+<p>Henry, Count of Drachenfels, furnished the chapter
+of the Cathedral of Cologne with the stone for
+its construction from a quarry which from this fact
+still bears the name of Dombruch, or cathedral
+quarry. In the Thirty Years&rsquo; War the half-ruined
+castle was occupied by the Swedes, but was besieged
+and taken from them by Duke Ferdinand of
+Bavaria, Elector of Cologne, who completed its destruction.</p>
+
+<p>The cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new
+castle, the Drachenburg, built in 1883 for the Baron
+von Sarter. It is in the Gothic style, and is elaborately
+decorated with frescoes and stained glass.
+The upper part of the mountain is covered with
+trees below the cliff, the lower part with grapevines,
+while along the banks of the Rhine at its
+foot are picturesque cottages, nestling among trees
+and vines. The Drachenfels is the loftiest of the
+Seven Mountains, and its summit commands one of
+the finest prospects on the Rhine. In the ruins of
+the old castle, ingenious and progressive man has
+seen fit to ignore sentiment, and thrust a modern
+restaurant, where in spite of his shocked sensibilities,
+the weary traveller may in return for German
+marks, rest and refresh himself with sparkling wine
+which is famous for its fine quality and flavor, while
+the cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited
+brain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page293" id="page293"></a>293</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img296.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 291.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page294" id="page294"></a>294</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page295" id="page295"></a>295</span></p>
+
+<p>One lingers long, dazzled by the splendor of this
+superb view. Mountains and valley, river and islands
+unite in a glorious picture which entrances the
+soul, and thrills the heart with gladness; while the
+pure, bracing mountain air, laden with the perfume
+of the grape, fills the lungs with &ldquo;a perpetual feast
+of nectar&rsquo;s sweets.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Many tourists surround us, and we hear a perfect
+babel of tongues: French, English, German and
+other languages greet our ears, assuring us that
+visitors from all parts of the world are enjoying
+this magnificent panorama with us.</p>
+
+<p>What a pity the camera will not encompass the
+wonderful scene.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;The castled crag of Drachenfels</p>
+  <p class="i1">Frowns o&rsquo;er the wide and winding Rhine,</p>
+<p class="i05">Whose breast of waters broadly swells</p>
+  <p class="i1">Between the banks which bear the vine;</p>
+<p class="i05">And hills all riched with blossom&rsquo;d trees,</p>
+  <p class="i1">And fields which promise corn and wine;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page296" id="page296"></a>296</span></p>
+<p class="i05">And scatter&rsquo;d cities crowning these,</p>
+  <p class="i1">Whose fair white walls along them shine,</p>
+<p class="i05">Have strew&rsquo;d a scene which I should see,</p>
+<p class="i05">With double joy wert thou with me.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Several of the Siebengebirge are visible toward
+the east, the basaltic heights sloping toward the
+Rhine. Just below are <span class="correction" title="amended from Rhondörf">Rhöndorf</span>, Honnef, Rheinbreitbach,
+Unkel, and Erpel; on the left bank of the
+river are Remagen and the Gothic church on the
+Apollinarisberg, with the heights of the Eifel and
+the ruin of Olbrück Castle on a height of 1,550 feet.
+In the neighborhood are Oberwinter, the islands of
+Grafenwerth and Nonnenworth and the beautiful
+ruins of Rolandseck with its surrounding villas and
+gardens. To the right, one may behold Kreuzberg,
+Bonn and even the city of Cologne in the distance.</p>
+
+<p>It seems as though one could gaze upon this
+scene of grandeur and beauty forever. As twilight
+falls, the picture receives a new and entrancing sublimity.
+&ldquo;The weary sun hath made a golden set,&rdquo;
+and silently the sparkling stars appear, one by one,
+while the deepening shadows blend the scene into
+a vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the
+soul up to the very threshold of heaven.</p>
+
+<p>We descend the mountain rather silently, unwilling
+to break the impression made by our journey,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page297" id="page297"></a>297</span>
+and slowly through the gloom make our way back
+to the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>While sitting upon the porch in the evening, surrounded
+by the majestic watch towers of the Rhine,
+and expatiating on the pleasures of the day, we
+suddenly hear a rich full chorus, harmoniously sung
+by at least one hundred male and female voices.
+The singers are invisible, and the notes seem to
+float out from one of the neighboring mountain
+caves. We all listen with delight to the sounds,
+which now approaching nearer, convince us that
+the singers are not the denizens of another world,
+but are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves. In
+the distance we can discern a procession of gay and
+jovial students with their sweethearts at their sides.
+The young men are carrying lighted torches and
+lanterns which illuminate them and the road, and are
+merrily singing the popular glees and college songs
+as they wend their way to the boat landing close
+by.</p>
+
+<p>The party is returning from a German students&rsquo;
+picnic, and as they board the little steamer, which
+immediately leaves her moorings, the air is rent by
+cheer after cheer, and we hear the gay laughter and
+happy voices long after the boat has disappeared
+from our eyes down the silent flowing river. Such
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page298" id="page298"></a>298</span>
+is the German student life, and such is the character
+of the German people: not averse to pleasure, sociable,
+jovial, kind and happy.</p>
+
+<p>We rise early this morning, and partake of a good
+German breakfast; and of what do you suppose a
+good German breakfast consists? Dishes of greasy
+sausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy, kale
+or saurkraut, onions and hot sauces, potatoes
+soaked in lard; black bread which has also been
+soaked in lard to save the expense of butter: and
+all this washed down with innumerable mugs of
+beer or Rhine wine, with a &ldquo;thank heaven&rdquo; when
+the unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes
+or olfactories? No, my dear friend; our breakfast
+is a most agreeable contrast to the picture just drawn.
+We are served with deliciously cooked steak and
+chops, and the connoisseur of any nationality would
+not disdain these meats or the daintily prepared
+chicken, coffee and fresh rolls. The eggs are fresh
+and not underdone: one can find no fault with the
+butter or the sweet new milk, and it is with a feeling
+of great satisfaction that we rise from the table
+at the close of the meal, and exclaim that we have
+had a breakfast &ldquo;fit for a king.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>A small steamer with an upper deck waits at the
+landing to convey passengers and a limited amount
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page299" id="page299"></a>299</span>
+of freight from Königswinter to Bingen. It is ten
+o&rsquo;clock when we step on this attractive little boat
+with our numerous wraps and parcels. We are
+well laden, for the camera occupies one hand, and is
+always ready for an unexpected shot at some
+picturesque figure, group, building or landscape.
+And I will here say to the tourist who wishes to illustrate
+his notes, that it is best to keep camera and
+sketch book handy, for you little know what fine
+opportunities are missed while you are stopping to
+unstrap your needed friend. Let your sketching
+outfit hang over your shoulder, and as to the camera,
+have one which will respond to your touch within
+five seconds, or you will lose many a scene of
+beauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of
+friends at home. We are much amused at the
+bulky apparatus of a friend, which is always carried
+neatly strapped in its box, while mine hangs over my
+shoulder, ready to snap instantly to a demand upon
+it. The difference in the result of the two methods
+is that I have a collection of many valuable pictures,
+while our friend spends most of his time strapping
+and unstrapping his camera. The day is chilly and
+threatening, and as we leave the landing, we find
+ourselves in a heavy fog, much to my disappointment,
+for I have anticipated great pleasure in seeing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page300" id="page300"></a>300</span>
+and photographing the many beautiful ruins of old
+castles and the landscape along our route. However
+as the mist lightens now and then, I &ldquo;shoot&rdquo;
+away here and there with as much ardor as the circumstances
+will allow: not idly or carelessly, as the
+enthusiastic amateur, reckless of plates and results,
+but at unquestionably fine points, such as lofty
+castles and picturesque mountains, half fearing
+sometimes that in spite of my precautions the longed-for
+view will prove but a blur upon my plate. It
+is bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime
+pictures with such faulty exposures.</p>
+
+<p>The country around Königswinter is extremely
+beautiful. Upon both sides of the Rhine rise the
+lofty peaks of the wooded mountains, with in almost
+every case a ruined castle upon the summit.
+How noble and defiant is the appearance of these
+venerable fortresses with their eventful histories
+and wonderful legends. Here near Remagen within
+full view of the river is the church dedicated to St.
+Apollinaris, at one time a great resort for pilgrims.
+It is said to be beautifully decorated with ancient
+and modern works of art; the view from the church
+tower so charmed the artist who first ornamented
+it that he painted his portrait upon the tower that
+his eyes might forever look upon the mountains and
+valleys and follow the winding course of the glistening
+river. Near the church, at the foot of the
+mountain, is the celebrated Apollinaris fountain,
+whose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the
+world for their medicinal properties.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page301" id="page301"></a>301</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img304.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 300.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page302" id="page302"></a>302</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page303" id="page303"></a>303</span></p>
+
+<p>At times the blue breaks through the clouds, and
+then the pictures are surpassingly lovely. The
+castles in their sorrowful majesty are very imposing:
+they are generally built of stone, are of fine architectural
+design, and are frequently the centre of
+charming old gardens, or are embowered in trees
+and shrubbery. Here they stand year after year,
+looking down upon the ever youthful river. Some
+of them are occupied, while others are desolate
+ruins.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;High towers, fair temples,</p>
+<p class="i05">Strong walls, rich porches, princely palaces,</p>
+<p class="i05">All these (oh pity), now are turned to dust,</p>
+<p class="i05">And overgrown with black oblivion&rsquo;s rust.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>One can hardly realize the grandeur of this scenery.
+Every turn of the river presents a different
+view: it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of natural
+beauty. Now we behold the mountains with their
+masses of foliage reaching to the very summits;
+now the charming village amid its vineyards, with
+its odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page304" id="page304"></a>304</span>
+houses with plain roofs and quaint gables. While
+sitting silently on deck gazing upon the old castles
+and ever changing scenes which border this beautiful
+body of water, I hear solemn tones proceeding
+from the belfry of an old church, and behold a little
+procession of mourners slowly following the hearse
+which is bearing the remains of some loved relative
+or friend to their final resting-place;&mdash;a pathetic little
+group walking sadly along through the drenching
+rain from the church to the burying ground.</p>
+
+<p>One is compelled to notice here the numerous
+signs with huge letters emblazoned upon them, informing
+the passers-by that here are bottled popular
+waters of medicinal qualities. The tottering establishments
+are, I observe, close to the water&rsquo;s edge,
+and whether or not the Rhine contributes the
+greater part in the composition of these famous
+waters is an open question. However it may be,
+the waters, or mineral springs, of genuine virtue or
+otherwise, are the source of a considerable profit in
+this region. Water as a beverage is seldom used
+by the Germans, for the light Rhine wines are to
+be had in perfection at a trifling cost.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page305" id="page305"></a>305</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img308.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Every turn of the river presents a different view.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 303.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page306" id="page306"></a>306</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page307" id="page307"></a>307</span></p>
+
+<p>We glide along, passing island and vineyard, and
+castle crowned height, with now and then a wide
+curve in the river, which looks with its smiling face
+to-day much as it did centuries ago when the old
+strongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal
+splendor, and noble retinues defiled down the narrow
+mountain paths to the water&rsquo;s edge.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Thou, unchanged from year to year</p>
+<p class="i05">Gayly shalt play and glitter here;</p>
+<p class="i05">Amid young flowers and tender grass,</p>
+<p class="i05">Thine endless infancy shalt pass;</p>
+<p class="i05">And, singing down thy narrow glen,</p>
+<p class="i05">Shall mock the fading race of men.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page308" id="page308"></a>308</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page309" id="page309"></a>309</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">From Bingen on the Rhine
+to Frankfort-on-the-Main.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page310" id="page310"></a>310</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page311" id="page311"></a>311</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:460px; height:700px" src="images/img314.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 303.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page312" id="page312"></a>312</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page313" id="page313"></a>313</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>Vast Vineyards&mdash;Bingen&mdash;The Hotel&mdash;The Down Quilt&mdash;A German
+Maid&mdash;Taverns&mdash;The Mouse Tower&mdash;Rüdesheim&mdash;Niederwald&mdash;The
+Rheingau&mdash;The National Monument&mdash;The
+Castle of Niederburg&mdash;Wine Vaults&mdash;The River&mdash;Street
+Musicians&mdash;A Misunderstanding&mdash;Frankfort-on-the-Main&mdash;The
+Crossing of the Ford&mdash;A Free City&mdash;Monument of Goethe&mdash;History&mdash;A
+Convocation of Bishops&mdash;The City&mdash;Monument
+of Gutenberg&mdash;The House in which Rothschild was Born&mdash;Luther.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:72px; height:90px" src="images/img_a.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">FTER leaving Königswinter, we pass vast
+vineyards on both sides of the Rhine, and
+as we approach Bingen we see them covering
+the whole mountain-side. Among
+the vines may be seen what seem like steps encircling
+the mountain to its very summit, but which
+in reality are roads or paths through the vineyard.
+The sturdy and prolific vines grow close to these
+walks. In this section of the country the greatest
+care is given to grape culture, hence in Bingen is to
+be found the finest wine made in the country. In
+this region are located great breweries and wine
+vaults extending into the mountain-sides for hundreds
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page314" id="page314"></a>314</span>
+of feet. On arriving at Bingen we proceed
+at once to the Victoria Hotel, a quiet house situated
+at a convenient distance from both railroad station
+and steamboat landing. The charges are moderate,
+and the accommodations good.</p>
+
+<p>Upon entering our sleeping apartment, I observe
+upon the beds huge fluffy quilts stuffed with soft
+feathers, and forming a pile at least two feet in
+thickness, which covers the entire surface from
+bolster to footboard. This ominous appearance
+fills me with strange forebodings and wondering
+thoughts. I say to myself: &ldquo;God made the country,
+and man made the town, but who on earth has
+manufactured these monstrous counterpanes, and
+for what purpose?&rdquo; Surely not for ornament, for
+they are the most unsightly objects I have ever
+beheld in the line of needlework, and look as if
+intended to smother hydrophobia patients. But as
+few dogs are seen hereabout, this does not seem
+probable. The appearance of a smiling innocent-faced
+chambermaid interrupts my meditations.
+She informs me that these great masses of feathers
+are used to keep the body warm at night. I conclude
+from this that the Germans are a cold-blooded
+people, since such a slaughter of the &ldquo;feathery
+tribe&rdquo; is necessary to maintain their normal temperature
+when in a state of repose. As night advances,
+I summon up courage to crawl under this
+fluffy mountain, and in a few moments feel as if a
+great loaf of freshly-baked bread is lying upon me.
+The heat is intense, and makes me think of &ldquo;Eternal
+torments, baths of boiling sulphur, vicissitudes of
+fires.&rdquo; I cast it off, and as the nights are chilly, soon
+find myself too cool. But I will not allow the enemy
+to return and overpower me, for there is much to
+be seen hereabout on the morrow, and I know that
+overgrown spread would absorb all the strength
+reserved for the occasion. Placing my steamer rug
+upon the bed, I am soon oblivious to all surroundings
+and happy in a land of pleasant dreams.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page315" id="page315"></a>315</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:464px; height:700px" src="images/img318.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 313.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page316" id="page316"></a>316</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page317" id="page317"></a>317</span></p>
+
+<p>This house is indeed delightfully located in the
+midst of a beautiful country. Bingen is a lovely
+town at the entrance of the romantic Nahe valley,
+looking out upon mountain, glen and river on
+every side, upon lofty castles and vine-embowered
+cottages. Quaint narrow streets and ancient buildings,
+whose history is buried in the distant centuries,
+tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger
+in this neighborhood. The place was known to
+the Romans, who erected a castle here, which was
+destroyed by the French in 1689, but which has
+been restored and extended. There is a beautiful
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page318" id="page318"></a>318</span>
+view from the tower, and footpaths ascend to it
+both from the Nahe and the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>Here are old historic taverns, whose floors are
+composed of large slabs of stone. The primitive
+chairs and tables are of rude workmanship, and devoid
+of paint or style, but heavy and strong enough
+to support the weary travellers who resort thither.</p>
+
+<p>We wander about, revelling in nature&rsquo;s enchanting
+pictures, and rejoicing in the mysterious atmosphere
+of the dense forests, which form the background.
+The smiling river, with its silver sheen
+beneath the moon, or its golden reflections of the
+setting sun, is ever an inspiration and a suggestion
+for some new trip or point of vantage. Yes, here
+are scenes for the artist, and pictures ready for the
+camera. Here too, on a quartz rock in the middle
+of the Rhine is the Mouse Tower which is said to
+owe its name to the well-known legend of the
+cruel Archbishop Hatto of Mayence.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 914, a protracted rain ruined the harvest
+in this region, and a terrible famine ensued
+among the poor people, who in their distress finally
+applied to the archbishop, as his granaries were
+overflowing with the harvests of former years.
+But the hard-hearted prelate would not listen to
+them. At last they wearied him so with their importunities,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page319" id="page319"></a>319</span>
+that he bade them assemble in an empty
+barn, promising to meet them on a certain day and
+quiet their demands.</p>
+
+<p>Delighted with the prospect of relief, the people
+gathered on the appointed day in such numbers
+that the barn was soon filled. The archbishop
+ordered his servants to fasten all the doors and
+windows so that none could escape, and then set
+fire to the building, declaring that they were as
+troublesome as rats, and should perish in the same
+way.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, when the bishop entered his
+dining-room, he found that the rats had gnawed his
+recently finished portrait from the frame, and it lay
+in a heap of fragments on the floor. While he
+stood gazing at it a messenger burst into the room
+with the news that a great army of fierce looking
+rats were coming toward the castle. Without a
+moment&rsquo;s delay the archbishop flung himself on a
+horse and rode rapidly away followed by thousands
+of rats all animated by the revengeful spirits of the
+starving population he had burned. He had scarcely
+dismounted and entered a small boat on the Rhine,
+when the rats fell upon his horse and devoured it.
+Rowing to his tower in the middle of the Rhine, he
+locked himself in, thinking he had escaped his voracious
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page320" id="page320"></a>320</span>
+foes; but the rats boldly swam across the
+Bingerloch, and gnawed thousands of holes in the
+tower, through which they rushed to their victim.
+Southey in his ballad, thus describes their entrance
+into the tower:</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;And in at the windows, and in at the door,</p>
+<p class="i05">And through the walls, helter-skelter they pour,</p>
+<p class="i05">And down from the ceiling, and up from the floor,</p>
+<p class="i05">From the right and the left, from behind and before,</p>
+<p class="i05">From within and without, from above and below,</p>
+<p class="i05">And all at once to the bishop they go.</p>
+
+<p class="s">&ldquo;They have whetted their teeth against the stones,</p>
+<p class="i05">And now they pick the bishop&rsquo;s bones;</p>
+<p class="i05">They knawed the flesh from every limb,</p>
+<p class="i05">For they were sent to do judgment on him.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>This is the old legend; but now comes the
+searcher after truth with the information that the
+tower was in reality erected in the middle ages as a
+watch tower, and the name is derived from the old
+German &ldquo;musen,&rdquo; to spy. These ruins were again
+converted into a station for signalling steamers,
+which in descending the Rhine are required to
+slacken speed here when other vessels are coming
+up the river.</p>
+
+<p>Taking one of the small steamboats which run
+from Bingen to the opposite bank, we land at the
+little town of Rüdesheim which lies at the base of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page321" id="page321"></a>321</span>
+the mountain. This old town is one of the most
+famous on the river, not only for its wines but for
+the legend of the beautiful Gisela, who was commanded
+by her father to become a nun in fulfillment
+of his vow made in Palestine during the
+crusade against the Saracens. The maiden had a
+lover, and finding that no entreaties could save her
+from her fate, Gisela leaped from a tower into the
+river, and the fishermen declare that her spirit still
+lingers about the Bingerloch, and her voice is often
+heard amid the rushing torrent.</p>
+
+<p>The first vineyards here are said to have been
+planted by Charlemagne, who observed that the
+snow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the
+town than from other regions in the neighborhood.
+The Rüdesheimer Berg is covered with walls and
+arches, and terrace rises above terrace, to prevent
+the falling of the soil.</p>
+
+<p>We drive to the top of this charming hill whose
+sunny slopes are clothed with vineyards. Upon the
+summit, as on most of the others in the neighborhood,
+there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out,
+and here one may remain and enjoy the pure air
+and enchanting views, for a day, a week, or for the
+whole season.</p>
+
+<p>Here, too, is the National Monument, in describing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page322" id="page322"></a>322</span>
+which I will copy the words of my guide
+book:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The National Monument on the Niederwald,
+erected in commemoration of the unanimous rising
+of the people and the foundation of the new German
+Empire in 1870-71, stands upon a projecting
+spur of the hill (980 feet above the sea level; 740
+feet above the Rhine), opposite Bingen, and is conspicuous
+far and wide. It was begun in 1877 from
+the designs of Professor Schilling of Dresden, and
+was inaugurated in 1883 in presence of Emperor
+William I. and numerous other German princes.
+The huge architectural basis is seventy-eight feet
+high, while the noble figure of Germania, with the
+imperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword, an
+emblem of the unity and strength of the empire, is
+thirty-three feet in height. The principal relief on
+the side of the pedestal facing the river, symbolizes
+the &lsquo;Wacht am Rhein.&rsquo; It contains portraits of
+King William of Prussia and other German princes
+and generals, together with representatives of the
+troops from the different parts of Germany, with
+the text of the famous song below; to the right and
+left are allegorical figures of Peace and War, while
+below are Rhenus and Mosella, the latter as the
+future guardian of the western frontier of the empire.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page323" id="page323"></a>323</span>
+The fine reliefs on the sides of the pedestal
+represent the departure and the return of the
+troops.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We visit many of the most noted breweries and
+wine vaults in the neighborhood. Those of Herr
+J. Hufnagel are the largest in this section of the
+country. They are cut in the base of the mountain,
+and extend inward many hundred feet. Here
+the choice wines are stored, many of the enormous
+casks containing upwards of twenty thousand
+quarts. Hundreds of barrels and hogsheads are
+seen; in fact every nook and corner of the vault is
+filled, and so extensive is this subterranean apartment,
+that avenues are made from one part to another,
+and along these we walk, the guide bearing
+a lamp to light the way.</p>
+
+<p>After visiting these great storerooms, we are invited
+to the hotel of the proprietor, which is close
+by, and on the porch we are served with an enjoyable
+lunch flavored with choice German wine.</p>
+
+<p>There is a beautiful drive along the river bank,
+and if one is tired, he may stop at one of the inviting
+restaurants in this neighborhood, and while
+resting and refreshing himself, look out at the tourists
+and others passing along the wide airy street,
+or as is a common custom, he may have his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page324" id="page324"></a>324</span>
+luncheon served upon the porch, from which there
+is a delightful and extended view of the Rhine.
+With plenty of shade and comfortable chairs, and
+the beautiful river before us, how swiftly the time
+passes! Sometimes, in consequence of our ignorance
+of the language, laughable mistakes are made
+in the ordering of our meals, which seem to increase
+the jollity of both the waiters and our party. On
+one of these occasions, while eating our luncheon
+in the open air, a band of eight or ten street musicians
+station themselves upon the porch but a few
+feet from us. They are healthy, hearty-looking
+men, but contrary to our previous experience in this
+country, they play the most inharmonious airs.
+We endure this for a short time, then as the discordant
+sounds become more and more annoying,
+we bestow upon the leader a number of small coins,
+and entreat them to begone. They evidently misunderstand
+us, and think, from our liberal contribution,
+that we appreciate their efforts, for they continue
+their playing with increased vigor and&mdash;discord.
+We do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters, so
+resign ourselves to the situation. After repeating
+their repertoire, which seems endless, with profuse
+smiling bows and thanks they leave us at last to the
+peaceful enjoyment of the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page325" id="page325"></a>325</span></p>
+
+<p>The Niederberg is a massive rectangular castle
+whose three vaulted stories, belonging to the twelfth
+century, were joined to the remains of a structure
+of earlier date. It was originally the seat of the
+Knights of Rüdesheim, who were compelled to become
+vassals of the Archbishop of Mayence for
+brigandage.</p>
+
+<p>At Rüdesheim begins the Rheingau, which is the
+very &ldquo;vineyard&rdquo; of this country. Here every foot
+of ground is cultivated, and the grape is the monarch
+of the land. All the hillsides are covered with
+the vines, and here in the midst of the verdure appears
+the picturesque villa of the planter or wine
+merchant. It is a rich and beautiful region.</p>
+
+<p>From Bingen and Rüdesheim we go to Frankfort-on-the-Main.
+This town which has witnessed
+the coronation of many of the German emperors, is
+noted for its ancient legends, and to one of these it
+is said it owes its name. This is the story: Charlemagne,
+having penetrated into the forests to wage
+war against the Saxons, was once compelled to retreat
+with his brave Franks. A heavy fog lay over
+the country which was unknown to him. Fearing
+that his little army would be cut to pieces if he lingered,
+and unable to see more than a few feet ahead
+of him, Charlemagne prayed to the Lord for help
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page326" id="page326"></a>326</span>
+and guidance. The next moment the heavy fog
+parted, and the emperor saw a doe leading her
+young through the stream. He instantly called to
+his men, and they forded the river in safety. The
+fog closed behind them and hid them from the pursuing
+enemy.</p>
+
+<p>In commemoration of his deliverance, Charlemagne
+called the place Frankford (the ford of the
+Franks), and the city which grew up shortly afterward
+retained the name.</p>
+
+<p>This, one of the important cities of Germany, is
+said to have been a small Roman military station in
+the first century, <span class="scs">A. D.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is first mentioned as Franconoford and the seat
+of the royal residence in 793; and the following
+year Charlemagne held a convocation of bishops
+and dignitaries of the empire here. The town attained
+such a degree of prosperity that in 876, at
+the death of Lewis the German, it was looked upon
+as the capital of the east Franconian Empire. On
+the dissolution of the empire in 1806, Frankfort
+was made over to the Primate of the Rhenish Confederation,
+and in 1810 it became the capital of the
+grand-duchy of Frankfort.</p>
+
+<p>It was one of the four free cities of the German
+Confederation, and the seat of the Diet from 1815
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page327" id="page327"></a>327</span>
+to 1866, in which year it passed to Prussia. To-day
+we find it a handsome city of two hundred and
+twenty-nine thousand inhabitants, with beautiful
+streets, stately houses surrounded by lovely gardens,
+and fine stores, parks, monuments and many
+attractions for the tourist. Here are churches,
+theatres, libraries and museums, and an opera
+house which will accommodate two thousand
+spectators.</p>
+
+<p>In the Rossmarkt stands the monument of Gutenberg,
+which consists of three figures, Gutenberg in
+the centre with Fust and Schoffer on either side,
+upon a large sandstone pedestal. On the frieze are
+portrait heads of celebrated printers, and in the
+niches beneath are the arms of the four towns
+where printing was first practiced: Mayence,
+Frankfort, Venice and Strassburg. Around the
+base are figures representing Theology, Poetry,
+Natural Science and Industry. This monument
+was erected in 1858.</p>
+
+<p>This is the birthplace of Goethe, and here is the
+house in which the poet was born, with its inscription
+recording that event, (August 28, 1749). The
+handsome monument of Goethe, erected in 1844,
+twelve years after his death adorns the Goethe-Platz.
+The pedestal of the monument bears allegorical
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page328" id="page328"></a>328</span>
+figures in relief in front, while on the sides
+are figures from the poems of the great writer.</p>
+
+<p>There are twenty-three thousand Jews in Frankfort,
+and in the quarter to which these people are
+limited, we are shown the house in which the Senior
+Rothschild was born. It is an unassuming brick
+building of three stories, in good repair. As I gaze
+upon this modest dwelling, I think of the man who
+from such unpromising beginning, became the
+founder of the greatest financial firm the world has
+known.</p>
+
+<p>There is a stone effigy of Luther not far from the
+Cathedral, in memory of a tradition that the great
+reformer preached a sermon here on his journey to
+Worms. It is true that these associations are to be
+found in almost every European town; but none
+the less are we impressed as we stand before the
+monuments of the great ones of the earth&mdash;the men
+who have left their indelible marks&mdash;&ldquo;footprints on
+the sands of time &ldquo;&mdash;which the years have no power
+to efface. These men must have truly lived.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+      <p class="i6">&ldquo;He most lives</p>
+<p>Who thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Frankford is a conspicuous
+edifice towering above the other buildings, quaint
+and picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page329" id="page329"></a>329</span>
+many of its details. From the platform of the
+tower, one may have a beautiful view of the city,
+with its thick border of trees, and of the fields and
+meadows beyond along the shining waters of the
+Main. This Church of St. Bartholomew was
+founded by Lewis the German in 852, and was rebuilt
+in the Gothic style 1235-39. The different portions
+represent various periods. The tower, left
+unfinished in 1512, now three hundred and twelve
+feet high, was completed from the designs of the
+architect which were discovered in the municipal
+archives.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page330" id="page330"></a>330</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page331" id="page331"></a>331</span></p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="chap center">A Prussian Capital and
+a Fashionable Resort.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page332" id="page332"></a>332</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page333" id="page333"></a>333</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><i>A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable
+Resort.</i></b></p>
+
+<div class="list f90">
+<p>We Start for Berlin&mdash;Mountain and Valley&mdash;Harvesters&mdash;Villages&mdash;A
+Great City&mdash;Unter den Linden&mdash;Kroll Theatre and Garden&mdash;The
+City Streets&mdash;Ostend&mdash;A Fashionable Watering Place&mdash;The
+Promenade&mdash;The Kursaal&mdash;On the Beach&mdash;Bathing
+Machines&mdash;Studies for an Artist&mdash;The Race Course&mdash;Sunday&mdash;The
+Winning Horse&mdash;Fickle Dame Fortune&mdash;The English
+Channel&mdash;A Bureau of Information&mdash;Queenstown&mdash;An Irish
+Lass&mdash;The Last Stop&mdash;The End of the Journey.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="flt" style="float: left; width: 120px;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figleft1"><img style="width:67px; height:90px" src="images/img_t.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="noind" style="text-indent: -1em;">HE journey from Frankfort to Berlin is
+through a pleasant and interesting country.
+For many miles we look from the car
+windows upon an undulating landscape:
+hills and valleys follow each other in rapid succession
+as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a
+minute. Now and then we pass men and women
+in the fields; and now young girls with bare feet
+and short skirts busily raking the hay,&mdash;true pictures
+of &ldquo;Maud Muller on a summer day.&rdquo; And here is
+a whole group of &ldquo;nut brown maids&rdquo; laughing
+merrily at their work, while over in a corner of the
+field is the belle of the countryside listening shyly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page334" id="page334"></a>334</span>
+to the stalwart young harvester who stands on the
+border of the adjoining meadow.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Her tresses loose behind</p>
+<p class="i05">Play on her neck and wanton with the wind;</p>
+<p class="i05">The rising blushes which her cheeks o&rsquo;erspread</p>
+<p class="i05">Are opening roses in the lily&rsquo;s bed.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Now we pass the harvesters at rest, sitting under
+the green trees and hedges with their dinner pails
+beside them. It is a pleasant, peaceful picture.
+Here is a picturesque village with quaint looking
+houses, and a little gurgling brook in the foreground.
+An echo from the distant mountain answers
+the shrill whistle of our engine and we can
+see the silvery cloud of smoke that follows us
+wander off to the right, then fade away in misty
+fragments. In many of these settlements, there are
+shaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed,
+and here the villagers are sipping their beer, in
+happy social converse.</p>
+
+<p>The young people wave their hands and caps to
+us as we pass, and with their bright costumes animate
+the lovely scenes which, although so close to
+each other, are of such different character. At last
+we reach Berlin, and our great iron horse stands
+puffing in the station, defying man to detect upon
+him any sign of exhaustion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page335" id="page335"></a>335</span></p>
+
+<p>In this large city entertainment can be found for
+people of every kind and taste. The street known
+throughout the world as Unter-den-Linden is a
+splendid avenue, one hundred and sixty-five feet in
+width, and takes its name from the double row of
+linden trees with which it is ornamented. It is the
+busiest portion of the city, contains handsome
+hotels, beautiful palaces, large shops, and many fine
+statues of celebrated men.</p>
+
+<p>The first day or two after your arrival in the city,
+engage a carriage and take in the general appearance
+of the city, its parks and suburbs; then visit
+the art galleries, museums, palaces and churches
+until the brain becomes accustomed to the bewildering
+array of subjects which demand attention.
+Stroll quietly along Unter-den-Linden stopping
+now and then at one of the many stores which line
+this beautiful avenue. At one end of this thoroughfare
+is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a sort of
+triumphal arch. It is a fine structure, two hundred
+feet wide and seventy-five feet high, supported by
+Doric columns. There are five entrances, the central
+one being reserved for the passage of members of
+the royal family.</p>
+
+<p>The Kroll Theatre and Gardens are a popular resort
+for the people of Berlin. These gardens are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page336" id="page336"></a>336</span>
+illuminated every evening by thousands of electric
+lights, arranged in various designs, as flowers,
+harps and other graceful forms, and this illuminated
+scene is the centre of a gay throng of pleasure seekers,
+who promenade the paths, or sit about in
+groups listening to the music of the fine orchestras
+stationed at each end of the spacious grounds. The
+entertainment is not over until a very late hour.</p>
+
+<p>There are a number of these gardens throughout
+the city, which are not, as may be supposed, frequented
+by the lower classes of the people, but by
+persons of every rank in society. One can hardly
+appreciate this scene without having passed an
+evening amid its light-hearted crowds. Here may
+be seen officers of many honors, with conspicuous
+gold and silver badges, mingling with the groups
+gathered around the tables, or sauntering up and
+down the garden walks, as well as the private soldier
+in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer
+with his sweetheart by his side. Title and rank
+here as well as elsewhere throughout Germany, are
+honored and respected by all classes, and the salute
+is gracefully made whenever one of the army or
+navy men meets his superior officer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page337" id="page337"></a>337</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:458px; height:700px" src="images/img340.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this promenade.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 343.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page338" id="page338"></a>338</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page339" id="page339"></a>339</span></p>
+
+<p>Berlin with its life and gayety, its grandeur and
+simplicity, its hospitality and good cheer, captivates
+our hearts, and we enter joyously into the many
+diversions it offers; as we sit among the honest
+and kind-hearted people, we feel the charm of their
+social atmosphere and wonder why other nations
+do not allow themselves more time for relaxation
+and the simple pleasures which abound here.</p>
+
+<p>The Friedrichs-Strasse is the longest street in the
+city: it is well laid out, and contains many handsome
+stores. Wilhelms-Strasse is a beautiful
+avenue, and is considered the most aristocratic
+street in Berlin, as it contains the palaces of princes,
+ministers and other distinguished personages. A
+handsome square opens from this avenue, ornamented
+with flower-beds and fine statuary.</p>
+
+<p>The museums here are called the Old Museum
+and the New Museum; they are connected by a
+passage gallery. The entrance to the Old Museum
+is adorned by handsome statuary, and the grand
+portico is beautifully painted with allegorical and
+mythological subjects: within, the walls are decorated
+with frescoes representing barbarous and civilized
+life, and in the great rotunda are ancient statues
+of gods and goddesses. From this one passes
+to the Gallery of Gods and Heroes, the Grecian
+cabinet, the Hall of the Emperors, and that of
+Greek, Roman and Assyrian sculptures. But it is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page340" id="page340"></a>340</span>
+vain to attempt a description of this vast collection
+of paintings, and other works of art in the short
+space I have to devote to the subject. To appreciate
+a collection of this kind, one should visit it in
+person.</p>
+
+<p>The Thiergarten is a great park, two miles long,
+beautifully laid out, and containing many splendid
+old trees, rustic paths, and artificial ponds and
+streams. The grounds are ornamented with statuary,
+and the fine zoölogical collection is in good
+condition and well arranged. But we must leave
+fascinating Berlin, and pass on to other scenes.</p>
+
+<p>Now we reach Ostend on the coast of Belgium,
+one of the most fashionable watering-places of
+Europe. During the season it attracts thousands of
+visitors, especially from Belgium and Holland. It
+was originally a fishing station, but was enlarged
+by Philip the Good, and fortified by the Prince of
+Orange in 1583. In the early part of the seventeenth
+century it sustained one of the most remarkable
+sieges on record, holding out against the Spanish
+for a period of three years, and finally surrendering
+only at the command of the States General.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page341" id="page341"></a>341</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img344.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;There are many odd and fantastic sights here.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 347.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page342" id="page342"></a>342</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page343" id="page343"></a>343</span></p>
+
+<p>To-day promenades take the places of the old
+fortifications, and handsome residences stand where
+the simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt in their cottages.
+The tide of fashion rolls where a simple
+people lived their daily life of care and toil. Here
+congregate people of every nation, the old and the
+young; and the cosmopolitan character of the promenade
+is a source of great entertainment to the
+stranger. As we approach the Digue or chief
+promenade, which is elevated fully a hundred feet
+above the beach, we are struck with the beauty of
+this grand esplanade, a hundred feet wide and extending
+miles along the shore. On the city side
+are many handsome buildings; residences, hotels,
+cafés and some stores. These buildings occupy a
+space fully a mile in length, but the promenade
+with its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many
+miles. Chairs and benches are placed at convenient
+intervals for the use of the public, and every day,
+especially in the afternoon, thousands of fashionably
+dressed people appear upon this walk, rejoicing in
+the opportunity to display elaborate gowns; some
+by strolling to and fro before the benches and
+chairs, and others by more ostentatiously driving
+by in handsome equipages, with coachmen and
+footmen in appropriate livery.</p>
+
+<p>Yet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening,
+listening to the harmonious melody of the sea, as it
+mingles its voice with the strains of a fine orchestra,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page344" id="page344"></a>344</span>
+and watching the merry throng passing and repassing.
+The silent night afar out on the glistening
+waters seems like a brooding spirit.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Thou boundless, shining, glorious sea,</p>
+<p class="i05">With ecstasy I gaze on thee;</p>
+<p class="i05">And as I gaze, thy billowy roll</p>
+<p class="i05">Wakes the deep feelings of my soul.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>We extend our walk and take in the Kursaal, a
+handsome structure of marble and iron built upon
+the side of the promenade. It covers a large area,
+and within its walls, the sounds of choice music
+are constantly heard. Dances, concerts and many
+other forms of entertainment keep this fashionable
+resort in a whirl both day and night. On many of
+these occasions the dressing is the most important
+feature of the affair. The people who resort thither
+are families of considerable wealth, and can, when
+they choose, run to extremes in paying court to
+Dame Fashion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page345" id="page345"></a>345</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:465px; height:700px" src="images/img348.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;One&rsquo;s portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects.&rdquo;
+&emsp; (<i>See page 347.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page346" id="page346"></a>346</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page347" id="page347"></a>347</span></p>
+
+<p>Let us descend about noon, by the long low
+steps, from the promenade to the beach below, and
+here we will find a long unbroken line of wagons
+facing the sea. These wagons have large numbers
+painted conspicuously on their backs: upon one
+side is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn,
+and a pair of strong shafts is attached to each vehicle.
+The stranger will wonder what on earth
+these unsightly things are designed for, and why
+they thus mar the beauty of the beach. Have patience;
+inexperienced stranger, and you will see
+these inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks and
+now one, now another be hauled rapidly forward,
+some to the water&rsquo;s edge, others into the ocean up
+to the hubs. In explanation of this I would state
+that when the bathing hour arrives, a horse is attached
+to each wagon, and the occupant or occupants,
+when it reaches the water&rsquo;s edge, open the
+door and spring forth a nymph and her companions,
+in their scant bathing robes, ready for the
+plunge. The costumes of both men and women
+are not such as find favor with fastidious mortals,
+and many of the scenes witnessed on this beach
+would not be tolerated at any of our American
+watering-places.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite common for men, women and children
+to remove their shoes and stockings and wade ankle
+deep in the surf.</p>
+
+<p>However, there are many odd and fantastic sights
+here, and many pretty tableaux on the beach which
+would delight the eyes of an artist, and I often
+think that one&rsquo;s portfolio might soon be filled with
+interesting subjects.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page348" id="page348"></a>348</span></p>
+
+<p>As the races are to be held this afternoon at the
+Course, a mile beyond the Kursaal, and just off the
+promenade, we wend our way thither. The race-course
+is similar to those in England and France.
+As the appointed hour approaches, a throng of fashionable
+people seat themselves upon the grand
+stand, until every place is filled, and even the aisles
+are crowded with the élite of Ostend.</p>
+
+<p>I forgot to mention the fact that the day is Sunday,
+but this seems to make little difference to these
+gayety-loving people.</p>
+
+<p>The horses start, and now betting and excitement
+go hand in hand.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Some play for gain: to pass time, others play</p>
+  <p class="i2">For nothing; both do play the fool.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>I have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion,
+of predicting the winning horse a number of consecutive
+times in my conversation with one of our
+party who sits beside me. These lucky guesses attract
+the attention of a stranger who is on my other
+side, and considering them as so many evidences of
+remarkable judgment or knowledge, he resolves to
+profit thereby. Accordingly before the next running,
+as the horses walk slowly before the spectators
+and the judges&rsquo; stand, the man quietly asks me
+to name the winner in the next race. I quickly
+make a choice and mention the horse&rsquo;s name. The
+stranger bids me good-day and hastens away to
+place his &ldquo;pile&rdquo; with some bookmaker on the
+identical horse which I have named.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page349" id="page349"></a>349</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:461px; height:700px" src="images/img352.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 353.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page350" id="page350"></a>350</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page351" id="page351"></a>351</span></p>
+
+<p>With a rush of spirit and courage the noble animals
+fly over the course, and every jockey seated in
+a saddle looks determined to win. Faster and faster
+they urge the flying steeds with spur and voice, and
+the animals themselves, with distended nostrils and
+steaming breath dash past the judges&rsquo; stand in
+frenzied effort. The merry jingle of the bell proclaims
+that the goal is reached: the great sign-board
+with the winner&rsquo;s name upon it is visible to all.
+What has become of my luck? And what has become
+of the stranger who relied on my judgment a
+few moments ago? My horse has lost. Goodness!
+I feel as though I have committed a crime, and I am
+very sure that Dame Fortune receives from me in
+private a score of epithets, not the most complimentary
+in the world for her unprincipled desertion.
+I feel sure that if I had my instantaneous camera,
+or pencil handy, this disappointed man&rsquo;s face
+would make a foreground in the picture that would
+surely be a &ldquo;<i>winner</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>We leave Ostend on the steamer La Flandre.
+The schedule time is 10:40 A. M. We go on board
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page352" id="page352"></a>352</span>
+amid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on
+shore. As it is a clear bright day with a delightful
+salt breeze, there is much pleasure in sitting on deck
+and enjoying the view. The English Channel is
+generally a turbulent body of water, noted for its
+many victories over the unfortunates who trust
+themselves in its power, but to-day it is mild and
+calm, probably plotting mischief to the next boat
+load of passengers that shall come its way.</p>
+
+<p>Indescribable confusion reigns in our hotel, at
+Liverpool, for more than a hundred of its guests are
+on the point of sailing for America. Innumerable
+packages, grips, umbrellas and walking sticks
+line the corridors. Every one is moving to and
+fro in hot haste. One lady asks me if I know at
+what hour the steamer on which she has taken passage
+will sail: another wants information in regard to
+her steamer: a man with perspiration trickling down
+his face begs me to tell him how to send his five
+trunks and other baggage to the landing stage.
+These and many more annoying and importunate
+people make life a burden to me. I do not know
+why they choose me to share in their misery. Do
+I look like a walking bureau of information, I wonder!
+If I do, I shall learn how to change my expression.
+But in truth the faces of these bewildered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page353" id="page353"></a>353</span>
+people are a study, and I am genuinely sorry for
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer cuts loose from her moorings, and
+moves gracefully out into the great ocean. As we
+approach Queenstown, we observe the small farms
+and dwellings close to the edge of the water.
+Then the lighthouse and the forts which guard the
+entrance to the harbor come into view, and now
+we drop anchor and wait for passengers and the
+mails. A little steam tug becomes visible, and as
+she draws nearer, we learn that she is bearing the
+mails and passengers to our ship. At last she is
+close beside us, and when made fast, the transfer
+takes place. Now is the time for the camera or
+sketch book, for many typical Irish characters come
+aboard our vessel, with strange, half-frightened faces,
+and their worldly belongings carried on their backs,
+or clutched tightly in their hands. Among the
+group I notice a middle-aged woman with a young
+pig nestling peacefully under her arm. Whether it
+is a pet, or simply a piece of live stock to begin
+housekeeping with in the new country, I cannot say,
+but with a contented expression on both faces,
+Bridget and her pig disappear into the special quarters
+which are reserved for the emigrants. This
+whole scene is very interesting. The old-fashioned
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page354" id="page354"></a>354</span>
+black glazed oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspicuous
+part in the picture, and here and there are
+seen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs
+and carried on the end of a stick, which is slung
+over the shoulder, while the corduroy knee breeches,
+woollen stockings, heavy shoes and pea-jackets with
+caps to match give us a fine representation of the
+Irishman on his native heath.</p>
+
+<p>Several small boats are floating at our side: from
+one of these a rope is thrown to a sailor on our
+deck, and a bright and comely Irish girl climbs
+nimbly up, hand over hand, and stands among the
+cabin passengers. With quick, deft movements she
+pulls up a basket filled with Irish knickknacks, such
+as pipes, crosses, pigs, spoons and forks made of
+bog-wood; these, with knit shawls and similar
+articles, she displays on deck, and it would be difficult
+to find a prettier, wittier, more attractive specimen
+of old Ireland&rsquo;s lasses than this. By means of
+her ready tongue she disposes of all her wares, and
+when the whistle warns all hands to leave the deck,
+she glides gracefully down the rope, and settling
+herself in her little boat, pulls for the shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page355" id="page355"></a>355</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:462px; height:700px" src="images/img358.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">&ldquo;Several small boats are floating at our side.&rdquo; &emsp; (<i>See page 354.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page356" id="page356"></a>356</span></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page357" id="page357"></a>357</span></p>
+
+<p>This is our last stop until we reach New York.
+The anchor is pulled up, and away we go steaming
+on our homeward voyage. The little steam tug
+runs along beside us for a time, then the whistles of
+both vessels blow a farewell to each other, and our
+little comrade gradually fades from our sight.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly a heavy fog comes up, and the incessant
+blowing of the fog-horn is a tiresome sound: but
+the wind follows up the mist and scatters it far and
+wide, and now we have the boundless prospect of
+the ocean before us.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Strongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows,</p>
+<p class="i05">Nothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the ocean.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>As we gaze upon it day after day, its beauty and
+grandeur grow upon us more and more. I can think
+of no better words than those of Childe Harold
+which so beautifully express the thoughts the scene
+inspires.</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll.</p>
+  <p class="i1">Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain;</p>
+<p class="i05">Man marks the earth with ruin&mdash;his control</p>
+  <p class="i1">Stops with the shore; upon the watery plain</p>
+  <p class="i1">The wrecks are all thy deeds, nor doth remain</p>
+<p class="i05">A shadow of man&rsquo;s ravage, save his own,</p>
+  <p class="i1">When, for a moment, like a drop of rain,</p>
+<p class="i05">He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,</p>
+<p class="i05">Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined and unknown.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Then, as if by magic, the huge waves lessen in
+their angry murmurs, the surface becomes quiet and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page358" id="page358"></a>358</span>
+calm; evening creeps on, and the glow from a descending
+sun illuminates the scene. As I look upon
+this beautiful and restful picture, I think how true
+the words:</p>
+
+<table class="reg" summary="poem f90"><tr><td> <div class="poemr">
+<p>&ldquo;Beyond is all abyss,</p>
+<p class="i05">Eternity, whose end no eye can reach.&rdquo;</p>
+</div> </td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="condensed">
+<p><i>The reading of this book has no doubt been a
+pleasure and a profit to you. Then why not recommend
+it to your friends? You will find cards on
+the inside of the back cover to assist you.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page359" id="page359"></a>359</span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:458px; height:700px" src="images/img362.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tcl f90">&ldquo;Beyond is all abyss,<br />
+&ensp;Eternity, whose end no eye can reach.&rdquo;  &emsp; (<i>See page 358.</i>)</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="cl">
+<p class="center f150">BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS</p>
+<hr />
+<p class="center f150">The British Isles through an Opera Glass</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.</b></p>
+
+<div class="list">
+<p>Author of &ldquo;Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan.&rdquo; With
+48 full-page illustrations, principally from photographs.
+Crown 8vo, about 350 pages, deckle edge paper, cloth
+jacket, in box, $2.00.</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="center"><b>What is said of &ldquo;The British Isles&rdquo;</b></p>
+
+<div class="condensed1">
+<p>Mr. Taylor has the knack of making the story of his journeyings entertaining
+to the public. The usual descriptions of time-worn scenes give
+place to charming personal narrative, and a wealth of incident and episode
+gives to the book an exceptional interest. The fine half-tones of English
+scenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance its charm.&mdash;<i>The
+Philadelphia Call.</i></p>
+
+<p>It is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of travel,
+not only in England, but in Scotland and Ireland. The author takes little
+from the guide books and their familiar histories, but notes many interesting
+details that attracted his own attention. Furthermore he has illustrated his
+book with a large number of photographs, both of places and people, that
+are quite out of the common run, and the pictures alone would suffice to
+give the volume distinction.&mdash;<i>The Philadelphia Times.</i></p>
+
+<p>The book is all the eye could wish, and as we turn the pages quickly
+from one to another of the forty-eight beautiful photographic illustrations a
+veritable panorama passes before us. The author is enthusiastic over what
+he saw in the British Isles, and he is evidently desirous of sharing his pleasure
+with those who have not been privileged to see for themselves.&mdash;<i>The
+Philadelphia American.</i></p>
+
+<p>It is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who
+knows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love travel
+would like to be.&mdash;<i>The Bookseller.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Taylor traveled through the British Isles with an observing eye,
+a ready note-book, and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence.
+The narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote, while the personal
+point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy. The volume
+is beautifully made, and the photographs, about fifty in number, are particularly
+well reproduced in half-tones&mdash;<i>The Philadelphia Press.</i></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of
+the price by the publishers</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><b>GEORGE W. JACOBS &amp; CO.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center f80"><b>103-105 South Fifteenth Street &emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Philadelphia, Pa.</b></p>
+
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="cl">
+<p class="center f150">BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS</p>
+<hr />
+<p class="center f150">Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.</b></p>
+
+<div class="list">
+<p>With over 100 half-tone illustrations, principally from
+photographs. Crown 8vo. 361 pages, gilt top, uncut
+edges. With unique cover design. Price, $2.00.</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="center"><b>What is said of &ldquo;Vacation Days&rdquo;</b></p>
+
+<div class="condensed1">
+<p>Mr. Taylor is a keen observer, who penetrated beyond the beaten
+track of the usual tourist, and his sketches of Home Life, Natural Beauties
+and Every-day scenes, have individuality and charm.&mdash;<i>Literary News.</i></p>
+
+<p>The narrative is written in a clear, easy style, with an aptitude for
+giving just that kind of information concerning everyday life which people
+miss too often in books of travel.&mdash;<i>Philadelphia Press.</i></p>
+
+<p>A very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from
+photographs taken by the author of &ldquo;Japanese people,&rdquo; men, women and
+children, engaged at their ordinary vocations, also pictures of Japanese
+scenery, shops, living rooms and temples. These illustrations are remarkable
+for their realism.&mdash;<i>Indianapolis Journal.</i></p>
+
+<p>The book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through Hawaii and
+Japan. The special value of the narrative is that it covers points of interest
+in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded in the
+guide books and ordinary books of travel.&mdash;-<i>The Philadelphia Call.</i></p>
+
+<p>A four months&rsquo; trip through Hawaii and Japan is narrated in this compact
+and entertaining volume. Mr. Taylor applies systematic methods to
+his sight-seeing. He is an appreciative observer as well. He was not content
+with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear, picturesque and
+fresh.&mdash;<i>The Philadelphia Ledger.</i></p>
+
+<p>Two conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average
+in its class; it describes new grounds and scenes, and the narrative ripples
+along with the ease and liveliness of a brook. Without professing to be
+specially instructive, Mr. Taylor conveys a great amount of information
+such as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant way, blending the matter
+of fact with the entertaining.&mdash;<i>The Philadelphia American.</i></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of
+the price by the publishers</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><b>GEORGE W. JACOBS &amp; CO.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center f80"><b>103-105 South Fifteenth Street &emsp;&emsp;&emsp; Philadelphia, Pa.</b></p>
+<p class="pt1">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:315px; height:500px" src="images/imgback.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr></table>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and
+Camera, by Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
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+
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+</body>
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+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera, by
+Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera
+
+Author: Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+Release Date: May 15, 2011 [EBook #36110]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marius Masi, Juliet Sutherland and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+The following typographical errors have been corrected:
+
+    Page 58: "From street to street we pass, viewing the wretched
+      tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling together over a faint
+      spark of fire ..." 'tenements' amended from 'temements'.
+
+    Page 167: "I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force
+      of arms, some of these rare types of strength and beauty, and
+      observing two pretty young girls standing in the doorway of one of
+      the houses, both perfect specimens of physical health, I think this
+      an opportunity not to be neglected." 'two' amended from 'too'.
+
+    Page 290: "A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in the many
+      excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and visionary
+      will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of rare
+      grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen,
+      cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages
+      of legendary lore." 'weird' amended from 'wierd'.
+
+    Page 296: "Just below are Rhoendorf, Honnef, Rheinbreitbach, Unkel,
+      and Erpel ..." 'Rhoendorf' amended from 'Rhondoerf'.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE CANAL AT MONNIKENDAM]
+
+
+
+  Odd Bits of Travel
+
+  with
+
+  Brush and Camera
+
+
+  by
+
+  CHARLES M. TAYLOR, JR.
+
+  Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan" and "The British Isles
+  Through an Opera Glass," Etc., Etc.
+
+
+  Profusely Illustrated by the Author
+
+
+  Philadelphia
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103 and 105 South Fifteenth Street
+
+
+
+
+  Copyright, 1900, by
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO
+
+
+  TO MY WIFE
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+In almost every walk of life, even among artists and photographers, we
+find those who are enthusiasts, and who work with such ardor and
+perseverance as to overcome all difficulties; while there are others who
+seem to desire the hard and rough places smoothed down, and the
+obstacles removed from their pathways. In writing this volume, it has
+been my purpose to enlist the attention of both of these classes, and to
+bring before the ardent worker as well as the ease-loving, but no less
+interested, follower of art, places and scenes that afford unusual
+attractions for the brush and camera.
+
+It might truthfully be said that in one's city may be found innumerable
+subjects of interest to both the amateur and professional artist; but
+change of food, scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both mind and
+body, and it is ofttimes wise to pass to new scenes and broader fields
+of observation.
+
+The places described herein are not linked together by proximity of
+location and follow no regular line of travel; but are selected from
+various lands and from among widely differing peoples, for the sole
+purpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable and photographic
+subjects. I have endeavored to select nooks and corners where the artist
+and photographer will have suitable accommodations, and where the
+country with its fresh, pure air, and wholesome food may build up the
+health, while at the same time an opportunity is afforded for filling
+the portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and characteristic figure
+studies. It has also been my aim to tell of countries and places
+comparatively easy of access, and where those of limited means may find
+satisfactory accommodations.
+
+At times I digress in my pictorial descriptions and offer some Bits of
+personal experience that have befallen me upon my journeys, which I
+trust may prove of interest and perhaps be of service to others
+travelling through the same places. It is with these purposes in view
+that the following pages have been written, and my hope is that they may
+serve to guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the attractive
+spots and fascinating views which I have attempted to describe in these
+ODD BITS OF TRAVEL.
+
+  _Philadelphia, 1900._      C. M. T., JR.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  SCENES OF THE PRESENT AND RELICS OF THE PAST
+
+  Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking
+  Photographs--The Landing-Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the
+  Country--Liverpool by Night--Salvationists--Old
+  Taverns--Chester--An English Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The
+  River Dee--Leamington--The River Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old
+  Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh--"The King's
+  Arms"--Nature's Pictures                                            15
+
+  LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF LONDON LIFE
+
+  The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and
+  Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An
+  English Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great
+  Cities by Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old
+  Robin Hood Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side
+  Shows--The Close of the Day                                         57
+
+  SCENES IN THE GAY CAPITAL
+
+  Dover to Calais--Paris---The Gay Capital by
+  Night--Boulevards--Life in the Streets--Champs Elysees--Place de
+  la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place Vendome--Louvre--Opera
+  House--Palais Royal--Church of the Invalides--Versailles--Notre
+  Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The Pantheon--The Banks of
+  the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La Morgue--Pere Lachaise      83
+
+  ANTWERP AND THE CITY OF WINDMILLS
+
+  From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty
+  Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs in Harness--The River--Old
+  Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative Listener--Steen
+  Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living
+  Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A
+  City of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel
+  by Boat--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful
+  Draught Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the
+  Market-Place--The Belle of the Market--Photographs--Wooden
+  Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword
+  of Columbus                                                        101
+
+  A CITY OF MANY ISLANDS
+
+  Amsterdam--The People of Holland--Amstel River--Merry
+  Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the
+  City--Source of Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety
+  Islands--Beams and Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street
+  Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient
+  Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The
+  Great Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The
+  Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music
+  in Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an
+  Artist--Hospitality--A Banquet                                     127
+
+  EXCURSIONS TO BROEK AND THE ISLAND OF MARKEN
+
+  A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The
+  Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein
+  Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch
+  Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull
+  Should Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal
+  Boat--Honesty and Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious
+  People--Farming and Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for
+  an Artist--Dead Cities of Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the
+  Age--City Lamps--Houses and People--The Island of Marken--An
+  Isolated Wonderland--First Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family
+  Doctor--Absence of the Men--The Fishing--Healthy and Industrious
+  Population--The Women of Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be
+  Taken--A Valuable Experience--Photographs                          149
+
+  THE ANCIENT TOWN OF MONNIKENDAM
+
+  Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient
+  Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The
+  Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone
+  Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient
+  Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult
+  Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the
+  Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the
+  Shops--Pantomime--A Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No
+  Candles--We Attract a Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken
+  Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A Stranger to the Rescue             177
+
+  OLD CUSTOMS AND QUAINT PICTURES
+
+  Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Gooden Morgen"--The Zuyder
+  Zee--By Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women
+  and Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and
+  Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the
+  People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug
+  Stores--Horretje--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave
+  their Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught
+  Girl                                                               205
+
+  A DUTCH CHEESE-MAKING DISTRICT
+
+  A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An
+  Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow
+  Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The
+  Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip
+  to Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled
+  Dogs--The Only Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay
+  Decorations--A United People--As a Hen and Her Brood--Their
+  Wealth is Their Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart Men and Sturdy
+  Women--A Higher Type--"I Have Enough"--Fishermen--The
+  Anchorage--A Volendam Suit                                         233
+
+  VOLENDAM SIGHTS, AND THE OLDEST TOWN ON THE RHINE
+
+  Church is Out--The Promenade--"Every Man is a Volume"--An Old
+  Suit--His Sunday Clothes--"Let Him Have It"--An Obedient Son--The
+  Silver Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An
+  Artist's Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient
+  City of Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful
+  Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public
+  Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Bruehl                       255
+
+  ALONG THE BANKS OF THE RHINE
+
+  Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous
+  Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs
+  of Honor--Koenigswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The
+  Castle--The Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated
+  Ruin--The Splendor of the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the
+  Summit--The Students' Chorus--German Life--A German
+  Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and Lofty Mountains--Legends
+  of the Rhine--The Waters of the Rhine--Vineyards                   283
+
+  FROM BINGEN ON THE RHINE TO FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN
+
+  Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German
+  Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Ruedesheim--Niederwald--The
+  Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine
+  Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A
+  Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the
+  Ford--A Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of
+  Bishops--The City Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which
+  Rothschild was Born--Luther                                        313
+
+  A PRUSSIAN CAPITAL AND A FASHIONABLE RESORT
+
+  We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A
+  Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City
+  Streets--The Brandenburg Gate--Potsdam--The Old Palace--Sans
+  Souci--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering-Place--The Promenade--The
+  Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an
+  Artist--The Race-Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame
+  Fortune--The English Channel--A Bureau of
+  Information--Queenstown--An Irish Lass--The Last Stop--The End of
+  the Journey                                                        333
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations.
+
+
+                                                                   PAGE
+  Canal at Monnikendam                            (_Frontispiece_)
+
+  We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune                            17
+
+  She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail                      22
+
+  The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro                  26
+
+  Amongst these are two typical products of the British Isles,       30
+
+  This is a fine field for the student of human nature               35
+
+  Wayside Inn, New Brighton                                          39
+
+  Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs           43
+
+  Suburban residence                                                 48
+
+  White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks                                  65
+
+  A short run of an hour                                             74
+
+  The chalky cliffs of Dover                                         79
+
+  The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands       106
+
+  The place is intersected everywhere by canals                     112
+
+  In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water      117
+
+  The belle of the market                                           123
+
+  The Amstel River                                                  132
+
+  Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian                  141
+
+  The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle                   152
+
+  Most of the houses have a canal at the back                       156
+
+  The blue stream finds its outlet in the river                     161
+
+  All persuasions accomplish naught                                 165
+
+  One old woman is fascinated with the camera                       170
+
+  We walk along the narrow streets                                  176
+
+  Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike
+    scene                                                           182
+
+  Hotel de Posthoorn                                                187
+
+  De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam                                       193
+
+  There is a young man whose walk is all his own                    200
+
+  The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean             204
+
+  The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses  208
+
+  A street auction                                                  213
+
+  At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill          217
+
+  A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town                   221
+
+  Land and water                                                    228
+
+  A good road for the bicycle                                       232
+
+  This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town     241
+
+  The houses are roofed with red tiles                              245
+
+  The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces                        254
+
+  As the congregation draws nearer we halt before the foremost
+    group                                                           258
+
+  Every man is a volume if you know how to read him                 263
+
+  Goeden dag. Tot weerziens                                         267
+
+  Palace of Bruehl                                                   276
+
+  Lovely walks, and bowery avenues                                  282
+
+  Not far off stands the statue of the artist                       287
+
+  The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock           293
+
+  How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable
+    fortresses                                                      302
+
+  Every turn of the river presents a different view                 306
+
+  Now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses  311
+
+  Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side    315
+
+  Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this
+    promenade                                                       338
+
+  There are many odd and fantastic sights here                      342
+
+  One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects    346
+
+  Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel              350
+
+  Several small boats are floating at our side                      355
+
+  Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can reach         359
+
+
+
+
+Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past.
+
+
+
+
+_Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past._
+
+  Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking Photographs--The
+  Landing Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the Country--Liverpool by
+  Night--Salvationists--Old Taverns--Chester--An English
+  Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The River Dee--Leamington--The River
+  Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and
+  Stoneleigh--"The King's Arms"--Nature's Pictures.
+
+
+We sight a steamer on our leeward side. A passing vessel is a great
+excitement on an ocean voyage. From the time when she first appears, a
+tiny speck on the distant horizon, every one is on deck watching her as
+she slowly climbs into full view, then draws nearer and nearer to our
+floating palace. How companionable she seems in the vast waste around
+us. We wonder to which line she belongs; what is her name; her speed,
+and whither she is bound: and now that she is within hailing distance,
+we await eagerly the result of the usual interchange of questions and
+answers by means of small flags and a certain code of signals, well
+understood throughout the nautical world. The following are some of the
+questions asked: "To what line do you belong?" "What is your port?"
+"Have you seen any icebergs?" "Met any wrecks?" "Are you a tramp?" and
+so on, until both sides are satisfied, then away she speeds on her
+course, while the passengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one
+another through their glasses until they are lost in the distance. The
+excitement is over, and we all return to our former occupations, or
+stand looking idly out to sea until once more there is a cry: "A sail! A
+sail!" and we begin to hope that she too is coming our way. Straining
+our eyes through the powerful field-glasses, we perceive that she is
+coming toward us, and will probably cross our line. Larger and larger
+she appears as she steadily advances, until she attracts the attention
+of every one on deck. She is now quite close to us, and proves to be a
+Barkentine under full sail. We shout a greeting to the crew, and wave
+our handkerchiefs as she passes, and the sailors smile in return and
+take off their caps.
+
+[Illustration: "We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune." (_See page
+16._)]
+
+The ocean air is delightful and invigorating, the sky a perfect azure,
+and the translucent waves with their foamy edges stretch away in long
+beautiful curves. We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune, as the waters
+plash softly over the steamer's sides, and we speed steadily forward,
+with the rush and swish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild
+sweet melody all its own. To fall asleep on deck amid these charming
+conditions is delightful indeed. But how quickly the scene changes.
+Suddenly a shrill whistle from the Quartermaster summons all hands to
+the deck. Orders are rapidly given in quick sharp tones: "Aloft. Take
+sail in." "Aye, aye, sir," is the swift response, in a twinkling the
+sure-footed sailors are up among the yards, perched in seemingly
+impossible places, reefing the flapping sails in preparation for the
+coming storm. Dark clouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below, and
+heaving billows surround us, uniting with a furious wind that seems bent
+on the destruction of our noble ship. The sailors in the rigging are
+swaying to and fro, and the panic-stricken passengers in the cabins are
+telling each other with pale faces that belie their words that they are
+not afraid, for there is no danger; yet they listen anxiously for every
+sound from above, and will not allow their dear ones to move beyond
+reach of their hands. There is no music now in the rushing of the waves
+or the flapping of the sails. Old Neptune in his angry moods is not a
+desirable companion. But nothing lasts forever, and from storm and night
+and black despair the flower of hope arises, for there comes a lull,
+followed by a furious blinding onslaught, and then the spirit of the
+hurricane calls his followers and flies up, away, somewhere beyond our
+ken: the captain's face relaxes from its tense expression, and he looks
+proudly around his good ship which has come out victor in the struggle
+with the elements. One by one, the passengers appear on deck, the purple
+clouds, after a final frown of disapproval at things in general, break
+into smiles, life on shipboard resumes its everyday attitude, and all
+goes "merry as a marriage bell." Life is full of contrasts. This is a
+picture for which neither brush nor camera is ready. He who would paint
+it must draw it from its recess in his memory, or from some sheltered
+nook on shore, and be cool and calm enough to follow his favorite
+occupation in spite of the consciousness that life and death are
+struggling for mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make him
+famous if he can but truly portray it upon his canvas.
+
+[Illustration: "She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail." (_See
+page 16._)]
+
+But there are many tableaux and picturesque situations here, very
+tempting to the traveller who carries with him his sketch book or
+camera, and I entertain my companions as well as myself by photographing
+many a little group both comical and interesting in the world around us.
+I invite our friends to the lower deck, where I wish to take pictures
+of some of the steerage passengers. Amongst these are two typical
+products of the British Isles--one a robust Irishman of shillalah fame,
+and the other a bonny boy from Scotland. I make known to them my desire
+to have their photographs, whereupon the quick witted Irishman, without
+doubt knowing the quality of his face, which is one of the ugliest I
+have ever seen, begins at once to bargain with me for the privilege of
+transferring it to my camera. It is true I could have stolen a march on
+him by a snap shot, and he been all unconscious of the act, but wishing
+to keep up the comedy I asked at what price he values his face. He
+replies that if I will take up a collection from the passengers around
+us, he will accept that as full pay. My friends of the cabin enter into
+the spirit of the play, and quite a goodly sum finds its way into the
+horny hand of the Hibernian athlete, who now, with a broad smile of
+satisfaction, intimates that he is ready to be "taken."
+
+These pictures too join the gallery of our yesterdays. Swift has truly
+said: "It is the talent of human nature to run from one extreme to
+another." The long voyage is over, and all hearts rejoice in the sight
+of land, and now we are upon the landing stage at Liverpool, amidst the
+throng of excited passengers, all moving hither and thither in search of
+baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the confusion of trunks, porters,
+policemen, drays and ubiquitous small boys. This is a fine field for the
+student of human nature. Here are groups of inexperienced travellers
+looking anxiously about them, wondering how it is possible to extricate
+their belongings from the indistinguishable mass before them, and
+laboring under the dread that when found, a fierce and merciless
+custom-house official will seize upon trunks and boxes, and deaf to all
+protestations, dump the contents, from a shoe to a hat, upon the floor,
+to the everlasting confusion of the owners and the amusement of the
+spectators. The cool indifference of those who have crossed the ocean
+many times is in marked contrast to these panic-stricken, and really
+pitiable creatures.
+
+[Illustration: "The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro." (See
+page 19.)]
+
+Then there is the "happy-go-lucky" youth, who finds all this tumult a
+great joke, and who wanders carelessly about, with the serene confidence
+that "things" will turn out all right; which they generally do. Here is
+the fashionable mother with her pretty daughters who evince a charming
+delight in everything that happens; the fussy mama who is sure that
+her baggage has not come ashore, or that the officers of the
+custom-house are in league against her; children separated from parents
+or nurses, shrieking wildly in their terror, while others, more
+venturesome and curious, are in every one's way. Porters elbow their way
+through the crowd, cabmen shout in stentorian tones, policemen watch the
+masses, and now and then in sharp curt tones call a delinquent to order.
+A placid looking old gentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor
+stands in the midst of a picturesque party of young people, evidently
+his grandchildren. They all look so happy that it seems contagious, for
+the troubled countenances of their neighbors break into sympathetic
+smiles as they glance at this joyous family group. Every shade of human
+expression may be observed in this motley throng, and he who has eyes to
+see will find many a charming tableau, many a pathetic scene or
+diverting situation that would enrich a sketch book, or prove a valuable
+addition to the collection made by the ready camera. The various changes
+of expression are worth studying, for where "luxuriant joy and pleasure
+in excess" appear at one moment, the next may behold an angry frown, and
+a struggle as if for life amid the surging tide of humanity.
+
+  "Now one's the better--then the other best
+   Both tugging to be victor, breast to breast
+   Yet neither conqueror, or is conquered."
+
+Taking a small steamer which plies between Liverpool and New Brighton,
+one may for a few cents, after a half hour's ride, land at an attractive
+and much frequented watering-place upon the bank of the Mersey River,
+opposite Liverpool. This resort is the pleasure-ground of the middle
+classes, and is well worth a visit. Upon a holiday many thousands flock
+to its shores which remind one of Vanity Fair, where numerous phases and
+conditions of life are represented. Here is the indefatigable and
+annoying travelling photographer with his "Four for a shilling. Take you
+in two minutes. Ladies and gentlemen, step in and see the finest
+pictures to be found in this country. Bridal groups a specialty."
+
+[Illustration: "Amongst these are two typical products of the British
+Isles." (_See page 23._)]
+
+Here are games of all kinds, pony and donkey riding, and all the shows
+to be found at the popular seashore resort. The "merry-go-round" is in
+full swing, with a crowd of spectators, among them many wistful
+children, watching the prancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses. The
+music here is quite inspiring, and the numerous small boys and maidens
+who lack the necessary pennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze
+at their more fortunate companions with woe-begone countenances. Strains
+less animated, but more melodious attract us to a fine dancing hall,
+where the older lads and lasses are tripping about in a lively manner.
+The light dresses, colored ribbons and happy faces make a pretty
+picture. Along the beach are beautiful views, worthy of a master hand,
+while out in the country the typical English houses with their massive
+thatched roofs and lovely surroundings of trees, lawns and gardens fair,
+cannot fail to captivate the artist's eyes.
+
+A stroll through the streets and byways of Liverpool at night is a sad
+but interesting experience. Alas for the misery and crime and want that
+exist in all the great cities! Girls, young and pretty, but no longer
+innocent, may be seen in scores in every locality: children with poverty
+and depravity written on their faces boldly address one at the street
+corners: men and women, with sharp, pinched features and misery and
+despair in their voices, beseech one for alms, or with fierce cunning
+lie in wait for the unwary. Sick at heart and with inexpressible pity we
+wend our way from one point to another. Vice, crime, want, suffering
+meet our eyes on every side: and the old hopeless cry: Why must these
+things be? rises up again in our souls. Through the whole night long
+upon the curb stones, at the corners, lounging against the windows and
+doors of closed houses or shops, this lower stratum of life appears with
+its atmosphere of dusky gloom. When the daylight dawns upon the city, it
+seems to shrivel up and shrink into the mouths of the yawning black
+cellars and foul alleys whose very breath is a deadly poison. There are
+dozens of taverns scattered about the city, and within these rooms or
+stalls are partitioned off where sin may be screened from public view,
+for even those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so low that they
+dare not carry on their nefarious operations in the face of their
+everyday companions. These dens are countenanced by the authorities, and
+one may find within them criminals of every grade who prey upon each
+other for their sustenance: but in the long run, it is the proprietor
+who comes out with a substantial bank account.
+
+Beggars, peddlers, musicians, singers of both sexes, and itinerant
+vendors of all kinds jostle each other in these haunts of sin, and great
+caution should be exercised in visiting them, for in certain localities,
+crimes of the most brutal character are of daily, I might say hourly
+occurrence. I would suggest that the tourist should at such times
+depend for safety upon the company of a first-class detective.
+
+Let praise be given where it is due. The Salvationists of Europe have by
+their indefatigable labors reclaimed thousands of these men and women
+from their lives of sin and misery. You will meet these untiring workers
+everywhere, exhorting, praying, pleading with fallen humanity. These
+noble bands of Christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome hovels,
+and, wrestling with filth and disease, in many cases come off
+victorious. They have been known to wash the clothing and cleanse the
+houses of fever-stricken families, and supply wholesome food and care
+for helpless infants, defied at every step by a drunken son or father.
+They fear nothing, knowing that their cause is God's cause, and that in
+the end Almighty Goodness shall win an eternal conquest.
+
+It is customary throughout England to close all the saloons on Sundays
+until noon, after which time they open their doors, and remain open till
+midnight as upon week-days.
+
+Of the many cities whose haunts I have visited at night, I think that
+without exception, unless it be London, Liverpool leads in depravity and
+vice.
+
+The country from Liverpool to Chester abounds in attractive scenery,
+local in character and possessing the additional charm of novelty for
+the American tourist. Along the route are scattered a number of old
+taverns, such as "The Horn," "The Green Tree," and similar names.
+Dismounting from bicycle or trap, the traveller who enters one of these
+ancient landmarks will find everything in "apple pie order": the floor
+clean and shining like a bright new dollar just launched from the mint.
+He will sit at a table within one of the three stalls on either side of
+the little room, and the landlord's wife will bring him a bumper of
+"good auld Al," the effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial,
+if it corresponds with my experience.
+
+[Illustration: "This is a fine field for the student of human nature."
+(_See page 24._)]
+
+Chester, oldest of English cities, is full of quaint residences and
+other ancient buildings. The old wall which surrounds the town is the
+only one in Great Britain which has been preserved entire. It forms a
+continuous ring, although in some places the earth has climbed so far
+above its base, that it appears no higher than a terrace. Its rugged
+outer parapet is still complete, and the wide flagging forms a
+delightful promenade, with a fine view of the surrounding country. The
+earliest date which we find upon the wall is A. D. 61, when it was
+erected by the Romans. Twelve years later, Marius, king of the
+Britons, extended the wall. The Britons were defeated under it in 607,
+and after a lapse of three centuries, it was rebuilt by the daughter of
+Alfred the Great. It has a long and eventful history, and the old
+Cathedral whose edge it skirts, is one of the largest and most ancient
+in England. The sculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn smooth
+by the hand of time. The stained glass windows are marvels of art, the
+groined arches, dreamy cloisters, and antique carving upon seats and
+pews fill one with admiration mingled with awe. There are many fine
+mosaics here, and specimens of wood from the Holy Land. Costly gems
+adorn the choir; here too is a Bible whose cover is inlaid with precious
+stones. The massive Gothic pillars are still in a perfect state of
+preservation, as well as the numerous ancient monuments and relics of
+the past. The vast size of the Cathedral is a perpetual source of wonder
+to the stranger, who, wandering among its curious historic mementos,
+gazing upon its storied nave, transepts and choir, and upon the Bible
+scenes pictured in these glorious windows, feels that he has been
+transported by some magician's hand into an age long buried in the past.
+The Cathedral is said to have been founded in the year 200. Its height
+within, from floor to the lofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows
+is from sixty to one hundred feet. The Church of St. John the Baptist
+rivals the Cathedral in antiquity, but it is now a picturesque ruin
+covered with moss and ivy.
+
+Chester itself contains many antiquities that are to be found nowhere
+else in the world. The houses, dating back to 1500, or even earlier, are
+of every degree of shade and color, with little windows with
+diamond-shaped panes, and gable ends facing the streets whose sidewalks
+are on a level with the second stories. Everything here seems to belong
+to the past, excepting the fine, modern station, ten hundred and fifty
+feet long, with its projecting iron roofed wings for the protection of
+vehicles waiting for passengers from the trains. This station is one of
+the longest in England. The famous Chester Rows are public passages
+running through the second stories of the houses facing the four
+principal streets. These arcades are reached by flights of steps at the
+corners of the streets, and contain some very attractive shops. The old
+timber-built houses of Chester with their curious inscriptions are all
+preserved in their original ancient style, and nowhere in England can
+the artist or photographer find a more interesting spot, or one
+richer in ancient and mediaeval relics than this little town.
+
+[Illustration: "Wayside Inn, New Brighton." (_See page 31._)]
+
+The quaint old taverns carry one back, back, to the life of the past.
+Drop in at the Bear & Billet Inn some day, or The Falcon Inn, and yield
+yourself up to the charming mediaeval atmosphere of the place. Seat
+yourself at the little table beside the window, and look out upon the
+same scene which your English ancestors looked upon more than two
+hundred years ago. The landlord's wife will bring you a foaming tankard
+of ale. It is the same tankard from which your forefathers quenched
+their thirst, and if you are of a contented, philosophical temperament,
+you will experience the same comfort and enjoyment as they, in this
+truly English beverage. If you are not fired with enthusiasm by this
+old-time picture, wend your way to the banks of the River Dee, where you
+may paint the greens in every variety of light and shade, with one of
+the picturesque old farmhouses which abound here in the foreground, and
+some "blooded" cattle resting quietly beneath the wide-spreading
+branches of the trees. Or here is the single wide arch of Grosvenor
+Bridge crossing the river, with a span of two hundred feet. This is one
+of the largest stone arches in Europe. Or here is a bit of the old wall
+skirting the water, and the charming picture of the Old Bridge, which
+dates back to the thirteenth century; and here too are the vast mills of
+the Dee, associated with the history and traditions of eight hundred
+years. With its surrounding country, and the succession of lovely
+gardens bordering the Dee, surely Chester is one of the choice spots in
+England for the lover of the quaint and beautiful. Within the pretty
+residences of the suburbs may be found all the comforts and recreations
+of a happy prosperous family life, united with genuine English
+hospitality, and a cordial welcome for the stranger. The owner of one of
+these charming homes orders up his cart, and insists upon taking us for
+a drive through this delightful locality, and for miles and miles our
+hearts and eyes are captivated by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits
+of scenery. We wind up with a cup of good hot tea, thinly cut buttered
+bread, and other dainties.
+
+[Illustration: "Typical English houses with their massive thatched
+roofs." (_See page 31._)]
+
+A decided change from the ancient and mediaeval associations of Chester
+is the prosperous city of Leamington, a watering-place situated on the
+Leam River, a tributary of the Avon. The natural mineral springs
+discovered here in 1797 have proved the source of great benefit to this
+town, as the springs are highly recommended by physicians, and many
+invalids resort thither. But as health is not our object in coming,
+we do not follow the popular custom, but proceeding to the banks of the
+River Leam, engage one of the many small boats which may be hired, and
+drift leisurely down the stream with the current, revelling in the
+wealth of beauty which surrounds us. Hundreds of lovely nooks disclose
+themselves to our eager eyes--typical English scenes--and as we float
+along life assumes an ideal aspect under the witchery of this
+picturesque river. Here are old farmhouses in the foreground, with their
+richly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds of acres, and here
+are velvet lawns, with their dainty high-bred air, surrounding noble
+homes, stately and silent. Now a group of merry children dance about the
+water side, and a great Newfoundland dog dashes wildly into the stream
+after a ball or stick, swimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize.
+How the children scream and run away as he rushes joyously up to them,
+shaking the spray over their dresses and into their faces. Oh fair River
+Leam! these lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon your waters
+love you, and we too, strangers from a foreign shore, here yield our
+tribute of loving praise for the happy hours we owe to you, lingering
+often, reluctant to leave some especially charming spot where the
+branches of the trees overhang the stream, and touch our faces with
+soft caressing fingers.
+
+  "Nature was here so lavish of her store,
+   That she bestowed until she had no more."
+
+This scene too fades as we board one of the many tram-cars, and in a few
+moments are carried to the very gateway of the world-renowned Warwick
+Castle, which occupies a commanding position, overlooking the Avon. This
+ancient pile is artistically poised, and presents grand effects of
+color, light and shade. Upon the payment of a shilling for each person,
+the massive iron doors which for centuries have guarded this stately and
+historic stronghold, open as if by magic, and a passageway cut through
+the solid rock leads us to an open space, where we have a fine view of
+the magnificent round towers and embattled walls. A visit of two hours
+gives us opportunity to climb to the top of the ancient towers which for
+ages have loomed up as monuments of power and defiance in the face of
+the enemy. We are impressed with the vast size of the castle. The view
+from the towers and the windows is beautiful and romantic. In the
+spacious courtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft velvety
+turf, and the hand of time has colored towers and battlements a rich
+brown hue that blends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and out
+wherever it can find a place.
+
+[Illustration: "Suburban residence." (_See page 42._)]
+
+The gardens slope down to the Avon, from whose banks there is a
+picturesque view of the river front of the castle, and here as well as
+in the park we see some fine old cedars of Lebanon, brought from the
+East by the Warwick Crusaders. In the main castle we enter a number of
+the apartments which are furnished in a style of regal splendor. The
+Great Entrance Hall, sixty two feet long and forty wide, is rich in dark
+old oak wainscoting, and curious ancient armor; and shields and coronets
+of the earls of many generations, as well as the "Bear and Ragged
+Staff," of Robert Dudley's crest are carved upon its Gothic ceiling. The
+Gilt Drawing-room contains a rare collection of the masterpieces of
+great artists. This room is so called from the richly gilded panels
+which cover its walls and ceiling. In the Cedar Drawing-room are
+wonderful antique vases, furniture and other curios, which would well
+repay a much longer inspection than we can give them. But all the rooms
+in this magnificent old feudal castle are filled with the finest
+specimens of works of ancient art in every line. The paintings alone
+fill us with despair, for they line the walls in close succession, and
+the artists' names are Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Sir Peter
+Lely, Guido, Andrea del Sarto, and many others of like celebrity. What
+an opportunity for those who have the time to linger in this atmosphere
+of lofty genius!
+
+Many beautiful old shade trees surround the castle, and the restful
+silence inspires one with the desire to be alone and yield himself up to
+the spirit of the place, hallowed by such wealth of associations and the
+presence of immortal art.
+
+A short distance from the castle, and outside the Warwick enclosure,
+stands an old mill upon the bank of the Avon. This ancient and
+picturesque structure was originally built for the purpose of grinding
+wheat, but the all-observing eye of the artist quickly discovered in it
+a mission of a higher order, and for years it has posed as the central
+figure in the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush of the painter
+or the camera of the photographer.
+
+Taking a drag and driving through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh,
+will give one delightful views of some of the most beautiful portions of
+England. The roads are macadamized, and in good condition. This is a
+fine farming country, and here we see the typical English farmhouses,
+built of brick and stone, surrounded by well-cultivated fields,
+stretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape. The fields are
+separated by green hedges, and the whole scene is one that can hardly be
+surpassed throughout "Merrie England."
+
+From these lovely quiet homes, we pass through roads bordered with wild
+flowers to the ruins of one of the most magnificent castles in Great
+Britain. It is hardly necessary to say that Kenilworth is inseparably
+associated with Sir Walter Scott, and his graphic descriptions of the
+scenes and events that have taken place here in the days of its glory.
+This castle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial ruins in
+England, dates back to about 1120 A. D. It covered an area of seven
+acres, but is now a mass of ivy-covered ruins, from which one can form
+but a faint idea of its appearance in the height of its prosperity. Yet
+the hand of nature has invested it with another kind of beauty, and in
+place of the pomp and majesty of power, the brilliant pageants of the
+court of Queen Elizabeth, we behold the clinging robe of ivy, the
+daylight illuminating the gallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax
+torches which flashed their lights upon the royal cavalcade, and a
+little country road where once a stately avenue led to the tower, and
+listened to the court secrets, lovers' vows and merry badinage uttered
+within its shades. The castle has passed through many changes, and
+experienced stormy days as well as those of prosperity and luxury, but
+the pen of Scott has immortalized it on the summit of its glory, and
+though the ages may cast their blight upon its visible form, it will
+ever live in the soul of the artist, the poet, the lover of beauty, as a
+scene of splendor, of sorrowful tragedy, of magnificent design.
+
+But a few steps beyond the Kenilworth grounds is an old English inn--The
+King's Arms. It is so picturesque and romantic-looking, that I feel like
+rechristening it: "The Entire Royal Family."
+
+Let us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-time atmosphere and
+many curious attractions. Here the artist is in his element, for on
+every side are quaint corners, cozy nooks, and relics for which the
+lover of the antique would give a fortune; while outside the windows the
+beautiful English landscape beams upon one with inviting smiles. The
+landlady, with her cheerful bustling air and broad accent, imparts a
+pleasant thrill of anticipation, which is more than realized upon the
+appearance of the savory chops,--grown on the neighboring hillside,
+whose rich green pasturage is a guarantee for the flavor and quality of
+the meat,--the delicious hot cakes, and the unfailing tankard, or if
+one prefers it, the cup of fragrant tea. And so we sit and refresh the
+inner man, while the soul revels in the world of beauty around us, and
+picture after picture passes before the mental vision, connecting these
+scenes with famous historic characters, or wonderful events of legendary
+lore. So lovely are these views, that one could gaze for hours, and
+never weary of the "living jewels dropp'd unstained from heaven," for
+this picturesque country possesses a peculiar freshness, as though free
+from the touch of care and the hand of time, like the fair maiden who
+has received from the fountain of youth the gift of eternal life and
+beauty.
+
+
+
+
+Lights and Shadows of London Life.
+
+
+
+
+_Lights and Shadows of London Life._
+
+  The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and
+  Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An English
+  Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great Cities by
+  Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old Robin Hood
+  Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side Shows--The Close of
+  the Day.
+
+
+As nature derives much of its charm from the intermingling of light and
+shade, so in life there are many scenes of sharp contrast, and we often
+have a deeper appreciation of its beauties after beholding the reverse
+side of the picture. Some one has said: "In actions of life, who seeth
+not the filthiness of evil, wanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty
+of virtue."
+
+What better opportunity of studying this phase of life can there be,
+than in the faces of those whose existence is passed amid associations
+of suffering, want and crime; who not only witness, but experience all
+these in their different shades and degrees.
+
+Take with me a walk through the worst portions of the greatest
+metropolis in the world, and observe a few of the pictures in the
+localities where humanity is born and nourished in misery, filth and
+sin. Guarded by three of England's best paid detectives, I follow
+closely in their footsteps, not daring to speak lest I rouse in his lair
+the slumbering lion of passion and revenge. From street to street we
+pass, viewing the wretched tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling
+together over a faint spark of fire, or vainly trying to impart to their
+little ones some of the natural warmth which still exists in their
+bodies, in spite of hunger, cold and fatigue. The crumbs from the tables
+of the rich would be a lavish feast to these poor creatures. Clean water
+is as great a stranger to their stomachs as to their bodies; loathsome
+rags cover their emaciated forms, and the destroyer drink has left his
+signet upon their countenances. A little farther on is the vile dance
+house into which the inhabitants of this neighborhood crawl for the
+lowest stage of their degradation. A motley throng is assembled here,
+and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill laughter and drunken
+oaths.
+
+I am guarded so carefully that many times I am hurried away from a scene
+more quickly than I wish, the officers fearing that our presence may
+create a disturbance among these reckless characters. We enter a low
+saloon in a cellar dimly lighted by an old oil lamp: the atmosphere is
+gruesome, and one of the detectives warns me that the men who frequent
+this haunt are desperate fellows who would not hesitate to stab me for
+the sake of my clothing. Old and grizzled habitues line reeking walls,
+with depravity written upon every countenance, and I fully realize that
+my life would not be worth a moment's purchase here should my attendants
+forsake me.
+
+Now we are in a long narrow alley, as black as Erebus, which gives one
+the feeling of being in a subterranean passage upon some mysterious
+mission. In a few minutes a light appears ahead--a dull glimmering
+bluish light, like that which is supposed to hover above graveyards--and
+we pause in front of a small frame house of two stories. A knock upon
+the door brings to the threshold a little dried up, wizened Chinaman,
+made feeble by long dissipation, who in his broken language makes us
+welcome. The place is "Chinese Johnson's" opium den. How can I describe
+the scene that is before me? In this room are many small dirty cots
+filled with unconscious human beings, willing victims of the pernicious
+drug--a loathsome spectacle--and here on a small couch sits the
+proprietor of the establishment. This is his throne of state, and here
+he can smoke with impunity the deadly drug, which has no perceptible
+effect upon his depraved body. We are glad to end this experience and
+banish from our minds the unattractive picture of the Chinaman in his
+elysian fields.
+
+We are not the only ones who have the privilege of viewing these scenes.
+Any one who desires and possesses the necessary courage may invade the
+haunts and dens of the lower world, and be profited by the lessons here
+learned; but he must exercise great caution. The studies are not only
+for the brush and camera: they are food for the thoughtful mind which
+can apply the wisdom thus gained, and seek in these conditions for the
+solution of knotty problems. One can better appreciate, by reason of
+this contrast, the blessings of his own life; of purity, honesty and
+contentment as opposed to ignorance, poverty and vice.
+
+This evening, fatigued in mind and body by my experience in the slums of
+London, I enter the Holborn Restaurant, hoping to enjoy a good dinner,
+and at the same time be entertained by the delightful music of skilled
+musicians. I seat myself at a table on the second floor, and supposing
+myself free from intrusion, yield myself up to the charming melody,
+when a good-looking and well-dressed man approaches, and with many
+apologies asks if the seat opposite me is engaged. I assure him that I
+do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of the Holborn, and that I
+can speak only of the chair upon which I am sitting. Upon this he takes
+the opposite place and gives to the waiter an order for quite an
+extravagant supply of the dainties enumerated on the bill of fare.
+During the time intervening between the giving of the order and its
+delivery, no conversation passes between us, but I have an unpleasant
+consciousness of his presence, and occasionally feel his eyes resting
+upon me. The appearance of the epicurean repast seems to impart the
+confidence he requires, and he addresses me with the remark that I must
+pardon him for staring at me so impolitely, but he is sure he has met me
+before. Am I not an American? to which I assent. "Are you a New Yorker?"
+is the next interrogation from this experienced catechiser. He can
+readily perceive that I am an American by my foreign accent.
+
+To the last question I also respond in the affirmative, and may heaven
+forgive the falsehood. "Ah," he says, "do you frequent the races at
+Sheepshead Bay?" "Yes, generally," I reply. (I have never seen the
+place.) "It is there, then, that I have met you. Were you not there last
+summer?" "Many times." (Another breach of truth.) "Will you kindly give
+me your name?" follows as a matter of course. I reach my hand into my
+pocket and draw out a card upon which is engraved simply my name, and
+extending it toward him, remark: "My name is Charles M. Taylor, Jr., and
+I am associated with Mr. ----, one of the chief detectives at Scotland
+Yard. My present mission is to look up some 'Bunco' men from New York
+who have headquarters in London. Here is my card." But the stranger does
+not take the card. He glances hastily at his watch, and rising
+hurriedly, says: "It is nine o'clock. I did not know it was so late. I
+must be off, as I have an important engagement."
+
+As he pushes back his chair, I quickly call a waiter, and tell him to
+collect the money for this gentleman's order, as I do not wish to be
+held responsible for it. He pays for the meal which he has not touched,
+and in his haste to depart forgets his manners, for he does not wish me
+"good-night."
+
+Did he think I was a tender lamb? This hurts my pride somewhat. I am
+sorry, however, that I was obliged to deceive him so.
+
+One evening while discussing matters in general with an English friend,
+born and bred in the city of London, we touch upon the order and
+unswerving obedience of the soldiers, policemen and good citizens who
+dwell under the dominion of her gracious Majesty, the Queen, in the
+great metropolis; and my friend cites as an example, the guards who
+patrol nightly the White Hall Horse Guards Barracks, as adhering so
+strictly to their line of march that they will not turn out of their way
+one inch for any person or obstacle in their direct course. I accept the
+wager of a dinner at the Holborn to be given by me if I do not succeed
+in inducing one of these guards to move out of his line of march.
+Selecting a dark night for the one in which to make good my assertion, I
+approach the barracks, and espy the guard with bayonet at "Carry arms,"
+making a "bee line" toward me. I walk in his direction with head bent
+low, and come so close that there would be a collision were it not for
+the stern and firmly-uttered "Halt" that comes from his lips. I halt
+face to face with this noble specimen of humanity, standing fully six
+feet one in his boots, and as straight as "Jack's bean pole." "Sir," I
+say, "you are in my way, will you please move out?" He makes no
+response. "Will you please step aside and allow me to pass?" No
+response. "Come, my good fellow," I continue in persuasive tones, "I
+have made a wager that you will move out of line for me, and if you do I
+will share the bet with you." No reply. But I see in the immovable
+countenance an inflexible determination to do his duty which all the
+bribes in Christendom will not be able to change. I feel that death only
+can prevent his obedience to orders. "Well," I conclude, "you are a good
+fellow, and the power you serve, be it queen, emperor, or president, is
+to be envied for having such a faithful subject. I respect your
+obedience to law and order. Good-night." No response. It is needless to
+say that I pay the forfeit willingly, and my friend and I enjoy a good
+dinner at the Holborn.
+
+[Illustration: "White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks." (_See page 63._)]
+
+Strolling one morning about London, with nothing better to do than to
+take in "odd bits" that come in my way, I observe a large crowd of
+citizens assembled opposite the entrance to Parliament, and going up to
+a policeman, I ask what has happened, or is about to happen? But the
+officer looks perfectly blank, and can give me no information whatever.
+I bethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules governing information
+sought from guards, cab-drivers, and omnibus whips in the city of
+London, and straightway putting my hand in my pocket, I produce
+several pennies which I give him for a mug of "Half and Half." A change
+comes over his countenance, his vanished senses quickly return, and with
+a courteous smile he remarks that Gladstone is expected to appear in
+Parliament for the first time after an illness of some weeks. And this
+obliging "cop" not only gives me the desired information, but escorts me
+to a good position in the crowd, just in time to behold the "Grand Old
+Man," who, holding his hat in his hand, bows smilingly in response to
+the enthusiastic greetings which come from every side. He walks briskly
+along, and as he comes close to me, moved by an irresistible impulse, I
+step out from the throng, and extend my hand, saying: "I am an American,
+who wishes to shake the hand of the man who has so bravely fought a hard
+battle." The proud old face looks pleasantly into mine, his hand meets
+mine with a cordial grasp, and replying that he is glad to meet an
+American, Gladstone passes on to the scene of his many conflicts and
+victories.
+
+The tourist who is bent on seeing the various sections of a great city,
+and especially those localities which are best observed by night, should
+be very cautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty: such for
+example as the old Seven Dials of London, as it used to be. I have had
+many unpleasant and untold encounters, and been placed in situations,
+not only trying, but extremely dangerous, while attempting to explore
+these hidden regions unattended and alone. Experience has taught me that
+it is best to go "well heeled," that is accompanied by the best informed
+and most expert detectives, as what they may charge for their services
+is cheap in comparison with a mutilated head or body. One's own ready
+wit and shrewdness are all very well in some cases, but there are times
+when these fail, and the man at the other end, drunken, brutal, and
+excited, will make you wish you had "let sleeping dogs lie."
+
+It is well for travellers and others to visit the slums of large cities
+by night. Here is food for comparison and reflection, and from these may
+perhaps arise a different feeling from that with which we are accustomed
+to regard the poor wretches who have lacked the advantages of birth,
+education and environment.
+
+In company with four detectives, I visited the "Seven Dials" of London,
+and the experience of those nights spent in scenes of horror, vice and
+degradation would fill volumes. Picture to yourself a small narrow
+street, with low wooden houses of two stories on either side. There are
+dim glimmering lights at intervals of about fifty feet. The hour is two
+o'clock in the morning, as one tourist attended by four officers wends
+his way through an atmosphere filled with dread and horror. We enter
+some of the houses which present scenes of indescribable squalor and
+confusion. A perfect bedlam of tongues reigns here. Men and women hurl
+abusive epithets at each other, from windows and doors, as well as from
+one end of the street to the other. The entire neighborhood enters into
+the quarrel, and the transition from words to blows is sudden and
+fierce. The street is filled in an instant with ragged, and almost naked
+beings, whom one can hardly call human, and the battle which ensues with
+clubs, knives and fists is beyond imagination. Cut heads, broken limbs,
+bruised bodies, bleeding countenances appear on every side, and it is
+quite evident that many are scarred for life. The sight is loathsome,
+yet it makes one's heart ache. Such scenes are of frequent occurrence in
+the slums of nearly every large city, where drink and depravity count
+their victims by thousands. In these vile abodes are the haunts of the
+thief, the smuggler, the fallen, and the pictures once seen, are
+indelibly impressed on the memory, with the long train of reflections
+awakened by such sights, and the inevitable query: Why is not something
+done to render such scenes impossible in this age of civilization?
+
+At last the great Derby Day has arrived, and the whole atmosphere is
+filled with the importance of the occasion. The sprinkling rain does not
+dampen the ardor and enthusiasm of the true Englishman, for I am told
+that the races have never been postponed on account of the weather.
+After breakfast we stroll to the street corner where stands our tally-ho
+in readiness for the day's excursion. Having engaged our seats the
+previous day, we take our places and start forth, drawn by four spirited
+horses under the guidance of an experienced driver. The whip is cracked,
+the horn sends forth its musical signal, and away we go amid the cheers
+and applause of numerous spectators. Swiftly we roll over the well paved
+streets, and the high spirits of the company, accompanied by the
+frequent winding of the horn, render the ride extremely pleasant. The
+race-course is about eighteen miles out of London, and our road is
+through a beautiful portion of the country. Every lane and avenue is
+thronged with people, walking, driving, or on bicycles, but all going to
+the Derby. We stop for refreshment at the old Robin Hood Inn, an ancient
+hostelry, established, we are told, in 1409. Here we have a beverage,
+supposed to be soda water or milk, but which is in truth a stronger
+concoction, to brace us for the mental and physical strain of this
+exciting day. "All aboard," cries the coachman, and there is a general
+scramble for places. At last we are all seated, and proceed on our way,
+changing horses when half the distance is covered.
+
+We take the main thoroughfare within three miles of the Epsom grounds,
+and now a wonderful sight bursts upon us. Thousands of pedestrians of
+both sexes and every age are flocking toward the race course: hundreds
+of carriages, vans, dog carts, tally-hos, vehicles of every description
+throng the road. Enormous trains are constantly arriving, bearing their
+thousands to the Downs, now covered with a vast moving mass. London
+empties itself on this all-important day, and proceeds to Epsom by every
+possible means of locomotion. The grand stand, a handsome and commodious
+structure, is quickly filled to overflowing. There are numerous other
+stands. The appearance of the Downs, with the countless booths and the
+waving multitude which cover it as far as the eye can reach, is a
+spectacle that cannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic. No
+other event in England can concentrate such an amount of interest and
+excitement as is found on the scene of the Derby. Every one is in high
+spirits: young and old, men, women and children all seem merry and
+happy, laughing, singing, dancing along on this one great day of the
+year. Behold the party on our right. A large wagon contains ten or more
+men and women, who are singing and laughing in great glee, and who
+invite us to join them. Here a group of a half dozen men with musical
+instruments at their sides are singing to their own accompaniment. The
+dust rises in clouds, and we are covered from head to foot with it as
+with a garment: we all wear veils pinned around our heads to protect our
+eyes.
+
+At last we reach Epsom Hill, and here we pay two guineas for the
+admission of our party and conveyance. We are also entitled to a place
+anywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-course. Our horses are
+picketed after being taken from the wagon, and our two attendants spread
+before us a most sumptuous repast. Coaches of every kind are so thickly
+jumbled together that for a vast distance the hill seems covered with a
+coat of dark paint.
+
+[Illustration: "A short run of an hour." (_See page 83._)]
+
+Thousands and thousands of men, women and children are assembled upon
+this hillside, while tens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the
+race-course. It is estimated that no less than from one hundred
+thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand persons are massed together
+at these races.
+
+The race-course is not like those in the United States, but is a sodded
+strip extending about half a mile in a straight line. The ringing of a
+bell announces the commencement of the races, and the mass of humanity
+surges to and fro in great excitement. Now is the book-maker's time, and
+he passes hither and thither, shouting his offers to the enthusiastic
+multitude, who accept or reject his propositions with eagerness or
+scorn, corresponding with their knowledge or ignorance of the horses
+ventured. Gambling and betting are at their height: vast sums of money
+change hands at the conclusion of the races, and many inexperienced as
+well as reckless ones leave the field at night ruined men. Meanwhile the
+confusion is indescribable.
+
+But these sounds drop away, and silence prevails as five slender
+well-shaped racers appear, ridden by jockeys, but when the wild mad race
+begins in which each endeavors to outdo the others, the excitement and
+tumult know no bounds: shouts, groans, cheers fill the air, and every
+eye is strained along the course: one could readily believe that a
+whole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill the air with
+their hoarse discordant sounds.
+
+As the winning horse reaches the goal, a placard of large dimensions, on
+which his number is conspicuously painted, is raised within full view of
+the swaying crowd. The shouts and cheers burst forth afresh, and jubilee
+and pandemonium mingle their extremes in a scene to be imagined only by
+those who have experienced it.
+
+As the first excitement cools, bets are paid, and accounts squared.
+Again the bell rings: another race, and a repetition of the previous
+scene, and so it continues for several hours.
+
+But the racing is not the sole attraction, as is evidenced by the crowds
+surrounding the refreshment booths and side tents, where for a small fee
+one may see the Fat Woman, the Skeleton Man, or the Double-Headed Boy;
+or listen to the colored minstrels who charm the soul with plantation
+melodies; or have his fortune told in the gypsy tent by a dark-eyed maid
+in gorgeous attire, who will tell of a wonderful future which is "sure
+to come true." Or you may have your photograph taken on the spot, and
+finished while you wait. Here is a phonograph representing a variety
+entertainment, and the little group around it are laughing heartily at
+the jokes of the "funny man," the ventriloquist, and the story-teller.
+Here are fine bands of musicians, and dozens of oddities, and curious
+tricksters: and the whole forms one grand panorama of human life, the
+counterpart of which is to be seen nowhere else in the world.
+
+At five o'clock, the horses are harnessed to our tally-ho, and with
+smiling but dusty and sunburned faces we bid farewell to the scene of
+gayety and start for home. Every road and byway in the surrounding
+country is swarming with people, and the scale of pleasure,
+disappointment, grief, hilarity and fatigue is reflected in the
+countenances of riders and pedestrians. Here is a group, overheated,
+weary, dejected, trudging slowly along the way, interchanging scarcely a
+word with each other: here a merry party, filled with life, singing,
+laughing, recounting the events of the day, as they wander on, arm in
+arm. Now a little lame boy smiles in our faces from the tiny cart which
+his sister pushes cheerily forward, and now a gay belle dashes by in a
+carriage drawn by fast horses, holding the ribbons and whip in correct
+style, while her companion leans back, indolently enjoying the
+situation.
+
+The countenances of the men tell various tales, as the triumphs or
+failures of the day are expressed in their faces. Some few wear a
+stolid, impassive air, while others talk, talk, talk, as though they
+have never had an opportunity till now. As we ride along amid the
+stupendous throngs, many thoughts are aroused, and many a picture is put
+away in the recesses of memory to be brought forth and pondered over on
+a future day.
+
+With the shades of night the curtain falls upon a scene of such
+magnitude that the brain is weary of contemplating it, and is glad to
+find temporary forgetfulness in "tired nature's sweet restorer." And so
+ends the great Derby Day.
+
+[Illustration: "The chalky cliffs of Dover." (_See page 83._)]
+
+
+
+
+Scenes in the Gay Capital.
+
+
+
+
+_Scenes in the Gay Capital._
+
+  Dover to Calais--Paris--The Gay Capital by Night--Boulevards--Life in
+  the Streets--Champs Elysees--Place de la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place
+  Vendome--Louvre--Opera House--Palais Royal--Church of the
+  Invalides--Versailles--Notre Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The
+  Pantheon--The Banks of the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La
+  Morgue--Pere Lachaise.
+
+
+We travel from London to Dover by train, thence by steamer to Calais.
+The chalky cliffs of Dover with their high precipitous sides are a
+pleasant and restful farewell picture of the shores of old England. A
+short run of an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different from
+those of the past few weeks that we feel that the magician's wand has
+again been exercised and the "Presto, change," has transported us to a
+region of maliciously disposed genii, who will not understand us, or
+allow us to comprehend their mysterious utterances; and the
+transformation scene is complete as we enter Paris, the home of the
+light, the gay, the fantastic.
+
+Let the lover of the bright, the gay, the jovial, visit the broad
+boulevards of Paris by night, especially the Avenue des Champs Elysees,
+which seems to be the favorite promenade of the populace. Upon both
+sides are groves of trees, brilliantly illuminated by myriads of colored
+lights, and here amid these bowers is to be found every variety of
+entertainment for the people. Games of chance are played in the gay
+booths, Punch and Judy shows attract crowds of children, wonderful feats
+of horsemanship are performed, singers in aerial costumes draw many to
+the Cafes Chantants, and the lights of innumerable cabs and carriages
+flit to and fro in every direction like will-o'-the-wisps. Here is fine
+military music, as well as exhibitions of skillful playing on almost
+every known instrument.
+
+The wide boulevards are long, straight and marvels of beauty, with their
+lovely gardens, handsome houses, and fine shops.
+
+There are strong contrasts in the lives of those one sees upon these
+streets under the gaslight. I think Dante's three realms are pretty
+clearly represented along the avenues of Paris, beneath the starry dome
+of heaven, and within these gayly decorated booths and cafes. Here may
+be seen the high and the low, the rich and the poor, the grave and the
+gay, the innocent and the hardened in guilt, the adventurer and his
+unsuspecting victim. And this heterogeneous throng, this careless
+pleasure-loving crowd, may be seen drifting from one point to another
+till the cock crows the warning of approaching dawn. The streets of
+Paris by night afford abundant material for the artist, the
+photographer, the poet, author and clergyman; as well as the adventurer.
+Here indeed, if anywhere, one may
+
+                "read the human heart,
+    Its strange, mysterious depths explore.
+  What tongue could tell, or pen impart
+    The riches of its hidden lore?"
+
+The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful square in Paris. From its
+centre are magnificent views of the grand boulevards and many of the
+handsome public buildings, and here are the great bronze fountains
+marking the historic spot upon which stood the guillotine during the
+French Revolution. The lovely walks, the sparkling waters, and the
+statues and monuments, the obelisk, the merry strollers, and picturesque
+tableaux seen at every turn are positively enchanting. Up the broad
+vista of the Champs Elysees the eye rests upon the wonderful Arc
+d'Etoile, one of the most conspicuous monuments in Paris. It stands in
+the Place d'Etoile, one of the most fashionable sections of the city,
+and is surrounded by elegant residences and pleasant gardens. From this
+point radiate twelve of the most beautiful avenues in Paris, and from
+the summit of the arch one can see for miles down these grand
+boulevards. The magnificent arch of triumph, commenced in 1806 by
+Napoleon, was not finished until 1836. It is a vast structure, rising
+one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. The great central arch is
+ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide, and is crossed by a spacious
+transverse arch. Upon the outside of the arch are groups of splendidly
+executed statuary, representing scenes of conquest and allegorical
+figures. A spiral staircase leads to the platform on top, where one
+beholds this superb prospect which well deserves its world-wide
+celebrity.
+
+We come upon the Place Vendome through the Rue de la Paix, and here
+stands the great historic column, erected by the first Napoleon in
+commemoration of his victories over the Russians and Austrians. The
+monument is constructed of twelve hundred pieces of cannon, captured in
+the campaign of 1805. Upon the pedestal and around the shaft which is
+one hundred and thirty-five feet high, are bas-reliefs representing
+warlike implements and the history of the war from the departure of the
+troops from Boulogne to its end on the famous field of Austerlitz.
+
+In front of the central entrance to the court of the Tuileries, in the
+Place du Carrousel, is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, also erected by
+Napoleon I., in 1806, in imitation of the triumphal arch of Severus at
+Rome. In the garden of the Tuileries, with its old-time atmosphere, its
+statues, fountains and pillars, its groves and terraces, its historic
+ruins, its lovely flower-beds, we find a quaint and charming picture of
+a past age; yet when these groves and paths resound with the hum of
+human voices, when the many chairs and benches are filled with joyous
+human beings, the link between the past and present is established, and
+we are in one of the favorite resorts of the Parisians of to-day.
+
+Between the Tuileries and the Louvre is Napoleon's triumphal Arc du
+Carrousel--or rather between the courtyards of the two famous piles,
+which now form one continuous structure of magnificent architectural
+design, whose facade is adorned with Corinthian columns, elaborate
+sculptures and lofty pavilions. Groups of statuary, representing the
+most distinguished men of France, allegorical figures, floral designs
+and other decorations on a vast scale ornament these magnificent
+pavilions. The space enclosed by the old and new Louvres and the
+Tuileries is about sixty acres.
+
+Some of the most beautiful of the architectural designs of the Louvre
+were completed by Napoleon I.,--to whom it owes much of its
+restoration,--from the drawings of Perrault, the famous author of
+Bluebeard, and the Sleeping Beauty.
+
+We cross a square and quickly find ourselves in the garden of the Palais
+Royal, once the Palais Cardinal, and the home of Richelieu. The ground
+floor of the palace is occupied by shops. The garden which is enclosed
+by the four sides of the square, is about a thousand feet long and
+nearly four hundred feet wide. Here is a quadruple row of elms, also
+long flower-beds, shrubbery, a fountain and some statues. A military
+band plays here in the afternoon, but the garden presents the gayest
+scene in the evening, when it is brilliantly illuminated, and the chairs
+under the elms, as well as the long walks are filled with gay
+pleasure-seekers.
+
+There is a magnificent opera house near the Grand Hotel, whose vast
+exterior is ornamented with beautiful statuary, medallions, gilding and
+other rich decorations.
+
+In the Church of the Invalides we find the tomb of Napoleon I., who in
+his will expressed a desire that his ashes might rest on the banks of
+the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom he had loved so well.
+The open circular crypt is beneath the lofty dome, whose light falls
+upon it through colored glass, and with a wonderful effect. The pavement
+of the crypt is a mosaic, representing a great crown of laurels, within
+which are inscribed the names of Napoleon's most important victories;
+and twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests, surround the wreath.
+The sarcophagus rests upon the mosaic pavement within the crypt, which
+is twenty feet in depth. This is an enormous block of red sandstone,
+weighing more than sixty tons, which surmounts another huge block
+supported by a splendid rock of green granite. The scene is solemn and
+grandly impressive, the faint bluish light from above, producing an
+effect wholly indescribable. In the higher of the two cupolas, directly
+over the crypt, is a painting, with figures which appear of life-size
+even at this great distance, of Christ presenting to St. Louis the sword
+with which he vanquished the enemies of Christianity.
+
+Here is Versailles, with its "little park of twelve miles in extent, and
+its great park of forty," with its beautiful fountains and grottos, its
+wonderful groves and flower-beds. Here are velvety lawns adorned with
+fine statuary, green alleys, shrubberies and terraces, in which art and
+nature are so cunningly intermingled that they are often mistaken for
+each other. The fountains are representations of mythological
+characters, and the figures are carried out in their immediate
+surroundings. Apollo is in his grotto, served by seven graceful nymphs:
+while close by the steeds of the sun-god are being watered by tritons.
+Again, the basin of this god appears surrounded by tritons, nymphs and
+dolphins, with Neptune and Amphitrite in the centre, reposing in an
+immense shell.
+
+Latona, Apollo and Diana are represented by a fine group: the goddess is
+imploring Jupiter to punish the Lycian peasants who have refused her a
+draught of water, while all around her, in swift answer to her appeal,
+are the peasants, some partially transformed, others wholly changed into
+huge frogs and tortoises, condemned here to an endless penalty of
+casting jets of water toward the offended deity.
+
+Here is the famous old cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris with which
+Victor Hugo has made the world familiar. This grand Gothic structure was
+commenced in the twelfth century, and finished in the fourteenth. We
+view its exterior from a position facing the fine west facade, with its
+wonderful rose window between the huge square towers. The three
+beautiful portals are ornamented with rich sculptures and imposing
+statuary. These doors form a succession of receding arches, dating from
+the early part of the thirteenth century. The central portion is a fine
+representation of the Last Judgment. The interior is vast and impressive
+with its vaulted arches and long rows of columns. The ancient stained
+glass of Notre Dame is represented by three magnificent rose windows.
+From the summit of the tower there is a glorious view of the Seine and
+its picturesque banks and bridges: indeed one of the loveliest views in
+Paris.
+
+Another famous and beautiful edifice is the Madeleine, or church of St.
+Mary Magdalene, which stands in an open space not far from the Place de
+la Concorde. It is in the form of a Grecian temple, surrounded by
+Corinthian columns, and the flight of twenty-eight steps by which one
+approaches the church, extends across its entire breadth. The great
+bronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments.
+Within, the walls and floors are of marble richly ornamented, and the
+side chapels contain fine statues, and paintings of scenes from the life
+of Mary Magdalene. The high altar is a magnificent marble group
+representing angels bearing Mary Magdalene into Paradise. This whole
+interior is indescribably beautiful, and to enter into its details one
+would require a volume. From this sublime spectacle we pass to the
+Church of St. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of Paris,
+familiarly known as the Pantheon. This also is a magnificent structure,
+with three rows of beautiful Corinthian columns supporting its portico.
+The handsome pediment above this portico contains a splendid group of
+statuary in high relief, representing France in the act of distributing
+garlands to her famous sons. The central figure is fifteen feet in
+height. The edifice is in the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a
+majestic dome, two hundred and eighty feet high.
+
+Within the church the spacious rotunda is encircled by Corinthian
+columns which support a handsome gallery, and he who ascends to the dome
+will have an opportunity of observing closely the wonderful painting,
+covering a space of thirty-seven hundred square feet, which represents
+St. Genevieve receiving homage from Clovis, the first Christian monarch
+of France, Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., while the royal
+martyrs of the French Revolution are pictured in the heavenly regions
+above. In the gloomy vaults below we behold the tombs of a number of
+eminent men, among them those of Rousseau, Voltaire, and Soufflot, the
+architect of the Pantheon. In the middle of the vaults is an astonishing
+echo. The roll of a drum here would sound like the thunder of artillery;
+a board dropped upon the pavement is like the report of a cannon, and
+the reverberations are repeated over and over again as though these
+subterranean spirits are loth to resign the opportunity of speech so
+seldom afforded them.
+
+The tourist in Paris rarely fails to spend at least one evening in the
+Jardin Mabille; that is the male tourist, who is curious to behold life
+in all its phrases, and whom the fame of the garden attracts as the
+candle draws the moth. This is a pretty spot, with bowery paths, gay
+flowers, sparkling fountains, arbors and sheltered corners where lovers
+and others may enjoy tete-a-tetes undisturbed, and refreshments may be
+ordered to suit purses of all dimensions. There is a good orchestra on
+the brilliantly illuminated stand, and here the soubrette is in the
+height of her glory, while the better class of the visitors are as a
+rule, only spectators. There is some pretty gay dancing here, but order
+is preserved. On certain nights fine displays of fireworks attract many
+spectators. But the great feature is the dance, and the proprietors
+generally employ some girls distinguished by peculiar grace, beauty, or
+other characteristics who serve as magnets to the light and
+pleasure-loving throngs.
+
+But why attempt to give even a faint idea of the innumerable attractions
+of the city whose abundant resources bewilder the tourist whose time is
+limited. It teems with life. It is overflowing with beauty, passion and
+love. Wandering along its gay boulevards, whether in the bright
+sunshine, or beneath the starry vault of night, with picturesque
+mansions or gay shops on either side, or amid the bowery paths and
+bewitching avenues, the gardens, statues, music and laughter, one feels
+that he is in an enchanted land, where high and low, rich and poor share
+alike in the universal beauty and happiness.
+
+The charming banks of the Seine offer endless attractions. Here are many
+beautiful bridges, from which one may have picturesque views of the
+lovely gardens and palaces. These bridges are handsomely ornamented with
+statuary, bronzes, and reliefs, and bear interesting inscriptions.
+Floating bathing establishments are to be seen along these banks, and
+swimming schools for both sexes. Here are also large floats or boats
+capable of accommodating at least fifty women, who wash their clothing
+in the Seine. It is quite interesting to watch these robust girls and
+women, as they pat and slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles
+provided for this purpose.
+
+When a death occurs in a family of the middle class in Paris, it is
+customary to drape the whole lower story of the house with black, and
+place the body of the deceased in the front room. Holy water is placed
+at the head, also candles and a crucifix, and any one may enter and view
+the body, or sprinkle it with holy water, and offer a prayer for the
+soul of the departed.
+
+The men who pass a house so distinguished reverently uncover their
+heads: they also take off their hats on the appearance of a funeral, and
+remain so until the procession has passed.
+
+For him who is interested in such sights, the morgue presents a curious
+but sad attraction. Here lie on marble slabs, kept cool by a continuous
+stream of water, the bodies of unknown persons who have met their death
+in the river or by accident. Their clothing is suspended above their
+heads, and any one may enter and view these silent rows. After a certain
+period, if not identified, they are buried at the public expense. I
+behold many pathetic sights here, as broken-hearted relatives find their
+worst fears realized and lost and erring ones are recognized. Sad, sad
+are the pictures to be seen at the morgue. Here is a fair young girl, of
+not more than twenty years, resting peacefully upon her marble bed, her
+troubles in this world over forever. Her body was found yesterday
+floating on the Seine.
+
+  "One more unfortunate
+     Weary of breath,
+   Sadly importunate,
+     Gone to her death.
+
+  "Touch her not scornfully;
+   Think of her mournfully,
+     Gently and humanly;
+   Not of the stains of her,
+   All that remains of her
+     Now is pure womanly.
+
+  "Make no deep scrutiny
+   Into her mutiny
+     Rash and undutiful:
+   Past all dishonor,
+   Death has left on her
+     Only the beautiful."
+
+Pere Lachaise, once an old Jesuit stronghold, is now the largest
+cemetery in Paris. It is said that there are more than eighteen
+thousand monuments here. The older part is much crowded, and we find
+here famous names connected with every age and profession.
+
+Here is a granite pyramid, here one of white marble, and here the love
+of a nation commemorates with flowers the grave of a man whose
+resting-place no lofty monument marks, but who "lives forever in the
+hearts of the French people." Here a monument whose sides exhibit
+bas-reliefs of the fable of the fox and stork, and the wolf and lamb, is
+surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black marble. This is the
+tomb of Lafontaine. The little Gothic chapel yonder is the tomb of
+Abelard, whose effigy lies upon the sarcophagus within, and beside it is
+that of Heloise. This double monument is very lovely, although the signs
+of neglect and decay are plainly visible.
+
+The military chiefs of Napoleon's day sleep in this cemetery, and here
+lie the mortal remains of St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia,
+of the great painter, David, of Pradier, the sculptor, the actress
+Rachel, and hundreds of others with whose names we are all familiar. The
+grounds are picturesque with winding paths, and cypress groves, and
+wreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the loving remembrance in
+which the dead are held by the living. The elevated position of Pere
+Lachaise gives one a fine view of the city. The grounds when first laid
+out in 1804, covered upward of forty acres; they now extend over more
+than two hundred acres, and it is said that $25,000,000 have been
+expended in monuments since this cemetery was opened.
+
+
+
+
+Antwerp and the City of Windmills.
+
+
+
+
+_Antwerp and the City of Windmills._
+
+  From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs
+  in Harness--The River--Old Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative
+  Listener--Steen Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living
+  Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A City
+  of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel by
+  Boats--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful Draught
+  Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the Market-Place--The Belle of
+  the Market--Photographs--Wooden Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the
+  Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword of Columbus.
+
+
+The country between Paris and Antwerp is delightful, and very different
+from the lovely landscapes of England. Farms, towns, villages, all
+present a novel aspect, and the people speak a language very strange to
+our ears. The great fields along the road are not fenced in but are only
+distinguished from one another by the difference in the appearance of
+the crops. In England, as I have said, there are beautiful hedges
+everywhere separating the fields and meadows.
+
+Here are strong men and women working side by side in the fields. Here
+are buxom country lasses, rope in hand, one end of which is attached to
+the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle. These are glowing pictures,
+and the clean farmhouses, fields and roads are abundant evidences of the
+industry and thrift of the people.
+
+Antwerp may well be termed a city of charms and fascinations. It is the
+most attractive and interesting town in Belgium, and at the same time
+one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Our first impression of this
+place is of clean orderly streets, paved with the square Belgian blocks
+which endure so well the wear and tear of constant travel. The houses
+and shops are of a quaint, ancient style of architecture, and very
+picturesque effect. During the middle ages, Antwerp was a very
+important, as well as wealthy city, and its splendid docks, its
+wonderful cathedral, its magnificent paintings all testify that a period
+of exceptional prosperity has been granted to it in the past.
+
+A strange sight are the heavy freight wagons, with their broad wheels
+and various loads, drawn by large powerful dogs. In many cases the dogs,
+of which there are sometimes two or three, are strapped under the body
+of the wagon by a kind of leather harness, or, if the owner be too poor,
+rope is substituted. A man or woman assists in drawing the load, which
+is frequently so massive as to appear disproportioned to the combined
+strength of man and beast. The dogs are bred and trained for their
+peculiar vocation, and are never allowed to shirk their part of the
+burden imposed upon them. Should they attempt to do so, they are quickly
+recalled to their duty by a small whip, hence the maximum result may be
+obtained from their labor. Their muscular limbs show plainly that they
+possess great strength and endurance. Large powerful draught horses with
+well defined muscles are also used. These horses must weigh fully from
+twelve to sixteen hundred pounds, and when four or six are harnessed
+abreast, tons of merchandise may be moved in one load. Antwerp, a city
+of about 260,000 inhabitants, is one of the greatest seaports of Europe,
+having splendid facilities for ships of every size, and huge warehouses
+for the landing and storage of immense quantities of merchandise. It is
+finely situated on the Schelde, which is at this point one third of a
+mile wide and thirty feet deep, and serves as an outlet for the commerce
+of Germany as well as Belgium. The town was founded in the seventh
+century, and has passed through many vicissitudes, attaining the summit
+of its glory under the Emperor Charles V., about the close of the
+fifteenth century. At that period it is said that thousands of vessels
+lay in the Schelde at one time, and a hundred or more arrived and
+departed daily. Its decline began under the Spanish rule, when the
+terrors of the Inquisition banished thousands of its most valuable
+citizens, who sought refuge in other countries, especially in England,
+where they established silk factories, and assisted greatly in
+stimulating the commerce of the country. After scenes of war and
+frightful devastation, varied by brief seasons of prosperity, the tide
+of success once more returned to the old harbors about 1863, and since
+then its commerce has increased in a greater ratio than that of any
+other European city. The Flemish population predominates, and its
+characteristics are those of a German town.
+
+We enjoy many lovely views along the river frontage, where dozens upon
+dozens of ships lining the banks, offer a variety of pictures to the
+lover of water scenes, besides the fine prospect of the town from the
+river.
+
+[Illustration: "The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the
+Netherlands." (_See page 107._)]
+
+That the Cathedral is the first attraction for the tourist goes without
+saying, and those are well repaid who climb far up into its magnificent
+spire, even beyond the great group of bells that captivate the soul with
+their wonderful sweetness and melody. At a height of four hundred feet,
+the vast prospect spread out before one is indescribably beautiful.
+This Cathedral, the largest and handsomest Gothic church in the
+Netherlands, was begun in 1352, but was not completed until about 1616.
+The chimes consist of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is only
+fifteen inches in circumference, while the largest weighs eight tons.
+The chimes are rung every fifteen minutes, a musical reminder that the
+soul of man, no matter what his occupation, should be elevated by
+continual aspiration toward the living God. Oh, these beautiful chimes!
+What wondrous harmony they peal forth, and what a multitude of loving
+thoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very gates of heaven!
+
+A stranger in the town, and a traveller, made the remark to me that
+these bells must be very annoying, ringing at such short intervals, and
+especially at night. "It is worse than a swarm of mosquitoes," he said,
+"for one can escape the attentions of these insects by placing a net
+over his couch, but the piercing sounds of these monstrous bells
+penetrate one like the chill of zero weather." This reminded me of a man
+who shared our compartment in one of the French railway cars, who
+interrupted my enthusiastic remarks on Westminster Abbey, its exquisite
+associations, and the sacred atmosphere which impressed all who came
+within its hallowed walls, by an eager question regarding the luncheon
+to be served an hour later.
+
+The interior of the Cathedral impresses one with its grand simplicity,
+and the long vistas of its six aisles present a fine effect. Here is
+Rubens' famous masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross, and his earlier
+painting, the Elevation of the Cross, both magnificent works, remarkable
+for the easy and natural attitudes of the figures. The high altarpiece
+is an Assumption by Rubens, in which the Virgin is pictured in the
+clouds surrounded by a heavenly choir, with the apostles and other
+figures below.
+
+There are many other paintings here; also stained glass windows, both
+ancient and modern. The tower is an open structure of beautiful and
+elaborate design, from which lovely views may be seen during the journey
+to its summit.
+
+Another interesting landmark is the "Steen" originally forming part of
+the Castle of Antwerp, but in 1549 Charles V. made it over to the
+burghers of Antwerp. It was afterward the seat of the Spanish
+Inquisition. It is now occupied by the Museum van Oudheden, a collection
+of ancient and curious relics from the Roman times till the eighteenth
+century. Within this building one may view the identical instruments of
+torture so mercilessly used by the Spanish inquisitors in the name of
+religion. It would not be difficult to photograph these diabolical
+inventions, for many of them are quite free from the surrounding
+objects, and not encased. In this collection we see also specimens of
+antique furniture, and a variety of ornaments, coins, costumes, tapestry
+curtains, ancient prints and engravings, and many other objects well
+worthy of observation.
+
+In Antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing some exquisite laces and
+embroideries. A visit to one of the many establishments here cannot fail
+to interest the stranger. At one of the shops we are conducted to a room
+in which a dozen girls are at work upon a delicate piece of lace. They
+have been engaged upon this masterpiece for about three months, and the
+proprietor tells us that as much more time will be required to finish
+it. The design is a huge web, in the centre of which is the sly spider
+apparently watching the victims who have strayed beyond the line of
+safety. A number of handsome and rare specimens of this valuable
+handwork are exhibited in the shop window, and one's desire to possess
+them may be satisfied by a moderate expenditure of money.
+
+
+Antwerp is the city of Rubens. We find his tomb in the beautiful church
+of St. Jacques, rich in carvings and noble paintings, not far from the
+fine altarpiece painted by his hand. He lies in the Rubens Chapel, and
+here too are monuments of two of his descendants. The house in which the
+illustrious artist died stands in a street named for him, and in the
+Place Verte, formerly the churchyard of the Cathedral, stands a bronze
+statue of Rubens, thirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet
+high. At the feet of the master lie scrolls and books, also brushes,
+palette and hat; allusions to the talented diplomatist and statesman, as
+well as to the painter.
+
+One need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in this charming old town,
+for comfortable accommodations and good board may be enjoyed at less
+than moderate rates. I love this dear city, not only for its magnificent
+Cathedral, its rare paintings, its picturesque surroundings; but also
+for the remarkable hospitality of its people, their genial manner, their
+smiling faces. Their candor and honesty win the admiration and the heart
+of the tourist, and the stranger is quickly at home, and able to enjoy
+most fully the many attractions which the place affords.
+
+[Illustration: "The place is intersected everywhere by canals." (_See
+page 113._)]
+
+But the time has come to bid it adieu; we take the train and in two
+hours find ourselves in the ever quaint and picturesque town of
+Rotterdam, fitly named the "City of Windmills."
+
+Comfortable quarters may be found here at the Maas Hotel. Rotterdam,
+whose population is something over two hundred thousand, is the second
+city in commercial importance in Holland. Among its numerous attractions
+are art galleries, parks, gardens, the markets, bridges and canals,
+without mentioning the many windmills which wave their arms in blessing
+over the city. The place is intersected everywhere by canals, all deep
+enough for the passage of heavily laden ships, and with such names as
+the Oude Haven, Scheepmakershaven, Leuvehaven, Nieuwe Haven, Wynhaven,
+Blaak, and Haringvliet.
+
+Our hotel is situated upon the bank of the Maas River, and our windows
+overlook this body of water, which is in reality a highway. Instead of
+wagons drawn by strong muscular horses, however, barges, schooners, sail
+boats, and every kind of small craft, overflowing with fruits,
+vegetables and other produce, traverse the river as well as the canals.
+Looking over these watery roads, the mind is confused by the hundreds of
+boats which seem inextricably mingled in one great mass, and appear to
+form a blockade as far as the eye can reach. Rotterdam might fitly add
+to its title of "City of Windmills," that of the "City of Canals."
+Houses, stores and other buildings are built directly upon the banks,
+and in fact, the foundations of these form the sides of the canals. In
+many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water, and passages
+are made beneath, by means of which produce, freight and other articles
+are conveyed to and from the buildings by boats, much as the wagons
+deliver goods in our cities from the streets to the houses.
+
+All these novel sights impress the visitor with the great difference
+between the manners and customs of this nation and our own; the result
+of the peculiar environment of the two countries. A stroll about the
+city affords abundant opportunity for interesting observations. Here one
+sees hundreds of Dutch women in their costly headgear of gold and
+silver, heirlooms of many generations. These head ornaments sometimes
+cover the entire scalp, and have curious filigree additions extending
+over the ears and temples. The head is first covered with a scrupulously
+clean and beautiful lace cap, upon which the gold or silver ornament is
+placed. These heirlooms are valued beyond all price, and I have handled
+some which are two hundred years old, and which are held as sacred
+charges to be transmitted to posterity.
+
+As we traverse the streets of this quaint city, we feel indeed that
+fashion has stood still here for many years. The custom is universal
+throughout Holland for the natives of the different provinces, as
+Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in public, and especially when
+travelling, the costume peculiar to their own province, and it is by no
+means uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed women in close
+proximity to one another, each one representing by some peculiarity, a
+different province or section of the country. For instance; when I see
+the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds, and worn with a jacket of
+striped red and white, and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white
+tape, I know that the wearer is a native of the island of Marken. These
+various costumes, all gay and picturesque, are the source of great
+pleasure to the stranger, and add new life and interest to his travels
+in this country.
+
+Here also we notice the huge, powerful draught horses, with their
+massive hoofs and shaggy legs, drawing strange looking wagons laden with
+curious boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn by the working
+classes also attract our attention and many other novel sights and
+customs give us the impression that we have chartered one of Jules
+Verne's original conveyances and wandered off to a country not located
+on this earthly planet.
+
+Wishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a candy shop and ask the fair
+maid behind the counter to put up a pound of this confection: our
+amazement is great when she replies that this form of sweetmeat is not
+to be found in Rotterdam. "What," I exclaim, "no sweets for the sweet
+girls of Holland?" "No, only chocolate candy." And this indeed is the
+only kind of bonbon to be had in Rotterdam. The sweet chocolate is
+moulded into various shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity and
+flavor that which is made in any other part of the world.
+
+[Illustration: "In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the
+water." (_See page 114._)]
+
+Our guide is very attentive and energetic; and anxious to show us
+everything of interest about the town, he conducts us through the
+numerous market-places. At one of these some amusement is excited by my
+photographs and sketches of the market people and the buyers. The market
+man stands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured face that seems
+to say that the cares and worries of this world affect him not at
+all. The whole scene is like some vividly colored picture, and I think
+as I look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of which we of
+the outside world know nothing. Apparently the people of this country
+possess the rare blessing of contentment with the lot which God has
+bestowed upon them.
+
+An old man and woman are particularly anxious for me to photograph their
+daughter, who they assure me is the belle of the market. This assertion,
+I think, may be true without much compliment to the girl, for a homelier
+set of human beings it would not be easy to find. After some
+preliminaries relating to posing and keeping back the curious country
+people who crowd closely around me and the camera, I finally succeed in
+making a good picture of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her
+father and mother on either side. They are all as proud as Punch of this
+performance, and seem quite "set up" by the occasion.
+
+One day being near to a manufacturer of the wooden shoes worn by the
+peasants, our party of four slips within the shop, and are fitted after
+trying on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent delight of Meinherr.
+It is necessary to wear a heavy woollen stocking to secure comfort in
+these shoes. The ordinary American stocking would soon be rubbed into
+holes by the hard surface of the shoe. Indeed it is quite a feat to be
+able to walk rapidly and gracefully in this clumsy footwear.
+
+Over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges are built, which
+are opened at intervals to allow the streams of boats to pass. The
+incessant blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the tally-ho
+notifies the watchman of the approach of boats. This sound may be heard
+at all hours of the day or night in any part of the city, and is at
+first, especially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger, but like
+other annoyances which are inevitable, the exercise of a little patience
+and endurance will enable one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to
+become as deaf to them as old "Dame Eleanor Spearing."
+
+I know of no place in which the lover of the antique, whether he is a
+collector of ancient coins, jewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after
+rare curios and relics, can experience greater delight than in this old
+city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of shops, whose proprietors devote
+their whole lives to the accumulation of such objects, and it is
+needless to say that their stock is rich and unique, and possesses
+abundant variety. We visit a number of these establishments, and I
+succeed in gathering up a large assortment of old swords which please my
+fancy. One of these is said to have been owned by Christopher
+Columbus(?). The shopkeeper vouches for the truth of the statement, and
+as I am willing to believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary,
+I label it as the sword of the great navigator who added a new
+hemisphere to our globe. The remaining swords have been the personal
+property of lords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and again I
+take comfort in the thought that if the records are not truthful, it is
+a minor consideration when taking into account the moderate prices which
+I have paid for the articles.
+
+The artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of material both for figure
+subjects, and odd and picturesque bits of landscape. Here too are
+wonderful interiors, with all the quaint associations of a bygone age.
+Here are scenes on the canals, the bridges, and the ever changing life
+on the river. By all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original
+studies for your sketch book.
+
+[Illustration: "The belle of the Market." (_See page 119._)]
+
+
+
+
+A City of Many Islands.
+
+
+
+
+_A City of Many Islands._
+
+  Amsterdam--The People of Holland---Amstel River--Merry
+  Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the City--Source of
+  Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety Islands--Beams and
+  Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street
+  Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient
+  Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The Great
+  Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The
+  Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music in
+  Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an Artist--Hospitality--A
+  Banquet.
+
+
+Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Holland, is but a short ride from
+Rotterdam, and like all the other "dam" cities of this region, possesses
+many attractions of its own, besides being the centre or hub from which
+radiate trips to many picturesque towns and other points of interest.
+
+These irreverent sounding terminations do not by any means imply that
+the cities so called are steeped in wickedness and crime. On the
+contrary they are remarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and
+honesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools which bear witness
+to the good and loving aspirations of a conscientious Christian people.
+
+The natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in disposition, and fair
+in their dealings with one another. They are personally very attractive
+on account of the natural simplicity of their everyday lives, and the
+high principle of honor and morality upon which they conduct their
+business transactions. They train their children in accordance with
+these principles, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate their
+virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that he will receive fair
+and courteous treatment from both young and old.
+
+The Amstel River, viewed from the windows of our hotel, presents a
+beautiful picture. Upon the opposite bank are handsome residences, of
+substantial, square and regular architecture, while in slow, calm motion
+on the river may be seen boats of every description, many of them with a
+cargo of human beings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant
+bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance as the boats
+steam or row past our hotel. Merry songs and happy laughter drift back
+to our ears, and it seems as though we have at last reached a land
+exempt from the cares and sorrows of the everyday world.
+
+The Dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied, with a cheerful
+manner, and a cordial and genuine welcome.
+
+Amsterdam is indeed a great city, with numberless points of interest for
+the visitor, without mentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres,
+libraries, churches and other institutions; its botanical garden,
+university, parks and tramways.
+
+The town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of Amstel, who built a
+castle here in 1204, and constructed the dam to which it owes its name.
+In the fourteenth century it began to increase in importance, becoming
+at that time a refuge for the merchants who were banished from Brabant.
+At the close of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was ruined by the
+Spanish war, and many merchants, manufacturers, artists and other men of
+talent and enterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to
+Holland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population, and the conclusion of
+peace in 1609, and the establishment of the East India Company combined
+to raise the town within a short time to the rank of the greatest
+commercial city in Europe. Its population in 1890, excluding the
+suburbs, was 406,300.
+
+Amsterdam is generally at first sight compared with Venice, which it
+certainly resembles in two points. Both cities are intersected by
+numerous canals, and the buildings of both are constructed upon piles;
+but there the similarity ends. There are wide, bustling thoroughfares in
+Amsterdam, traversed by wagons and drays which could have no place in
+the city of gondolas and ancient palaces.
+
+[Illustration: "The Amstel River." (_See page 128._)]
+
+The canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amsterdam in every direction,
+are of various sizes, and divide the city into ninety islands; and these
+are connected by nearly three hundred bridges. There are four principal,
+or grand canals, which are in broad, handsome avenues, bordered with
+trees, and with sidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals intersect
+these and serve to connect one part of the town with another, as short
+streets cross wide highways and main thoroughfares in other places. Rows
+of fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses, and as all
+the buildings are constructed on foundations of piles, the old quotation
+of "a city whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like rooks," is
+not without considerable truth. The quaint old architecture of the
+stores and houses is of itself a source of great interest to the
+visitor. We have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and tiled
+roofs overhanging the windows, that at first one has the impression of
+awakening from a dream to its reality. Remarkable order and
+cleanliness prevail everywhere, adding to this feeling, for the wear and
+tear of daily living do not seem to affect the almost immaculate
+atmosphere of the place. Windows are as clear as crystal, and the
+woodwork of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly scrubbed and
+sanded. Projecting from the attic windows of many buildings may be seen
+a pole or beam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to hoist
+furniture and other heavy or bulky articles from the sidewalk to the
+upper stories. These things are not carried up the winding stairway, as
+with us, scratching and defacing the walls and paint, as well as the
+furniture, and resulting in much vexation and the utterance of unseemly
+swear words. All this is avoided by the methods of the people of
+Holland, and the citizens of America would profit by adopting them, if
+only as a means of avoiding the temptation to express one's feelings in
+violent and irreligious language.
+
+Among the thousand and one attractions of this interesting city, the
+curious-looking old junks, or salesmen and women stationed at various
+points on the streets, are not unworthy the notice of the photographer
+or artist. Their wares consist of old scrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps
+toothless, hammers without handles, nails of every size, files, beds
+and other articles of furniture apparently dating back to scriptural
+ages. Such markets, where odds and ends of every imaginable kind are
+gathered into piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people, seem
+to be sanctioned by the authorities, and sometimes present a very active
+and thriving appearance. They are not unpicturesque in their odd
+combinations of color, attitude and expression.
+
+The great windmills along the canal, with their huge revolving arms, and
+the boats with their loads of merchandise; the peasant women with their
+quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses; the tall Dutch
+houses with their red and yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and
+gables, the beautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten, the vast
+docks, with forests of masts, and countless ships from all parts of the
+world, and products of every country, the wonderful dikes, all form a
+succession of views of charming variety and individual beauty that are
+fascinating to the newcomer.
+
+Many short trips may be taken from here either by boat or train, and he
+who would fill his portfolio with quaint and lovely pictures, will find
+his enthusiasm aroused, no matter in which direction he may venture, or
+whether his expedition be on land or water. Interesting localities are
+always within easy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation and
+accommodation render all points accessible to the traveller whose purse
+is of the most slender dimensions.
+
+Take with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort. Proceeding to the
+Central Railroad Station, we purchase tickets which entitle us to the
+short ride in the usual compartment car. And here one may note the
+difference between railroad travel throughout England and on the
+Continent, and the American system. Instead of having one car into which
+passengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and poor, merchants and
+emigrants crowd as in free America, European trains are divided into
+three sections, viz: first, second and third class. Although the more
+general experience is that the second class compartments are quite as
+comfortable, clean and attractive as the first class compartments, the
+price of the latter is nearly double that of the former, and the fare of
+the second class nearly double that of the third. In many sections of
+England, Scotland and Germany, the third class accommodations are by no
+means unpleasant: but do not take third class tickets when travelling in
+Ireland, for should you do so, it is more than probable that just as you
+are waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic and beautiful
+scenery around you, Paddy with his wife and progeny, several pigs, and
+whatever other small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently
+dragged along, will be planted by your side, or roam about you in such
+unpleasant proximity as to change all your romantic visions into the
+most unromantic prose.
+
+Here we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem, famous in past years for
+its tulips, and now noted for its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well
+as for the curious old houses of brick and stone which are the delight
+of all the visitors to Holland. These lofty steeples and rows of ancient
+and picturesque houses have looked down upon many generations, and
+witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance that have been registered on
+the pages of history; for like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege
+during the war for independence, and stories of the heroism of both men
+and women have come down through the long centuries to tell us of
+experiences of which these ancient structures, stately and silent, give
+no sign. So well cared for are the old buildings, that one can readily
+imagine that they will appear as they do to-day for many centuries to
+come.
+
+How we enjoy this historic old place! The very air we breathe seems
+laden with odors of the past. The flower-beds are wonderfully
+attractive, with their gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole fields
+of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant blooming plants in
+every shade of color are to be seen here, and this town supplies many of
+the largest gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne River winds
+through the town, which possesses the characteristic cleanliness of the
+other cities of Holland.
+
+While driving along the bank of the canal here, our attention is
+attracted by the sound of loud, shrill cries which seem to come from the
+water. "What!" I say, "do the lurking spirits of the slain thus make
+themselves known to the living? Are there still lingering 'pale gliding
+ghosts, with fingers dropping gore'?" Whatever it may be, dead or
+living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and alighting, hasten to
+the edge of the canal. Looking into the dark muddy water, I see a lad of
+about twelve years, just able to keep his head above the stream, and
+screaming lustily for help. A young man reaches the spot at the same
+moment, and plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the boy
+who is too much frightened and exhausted to give any account of himself.
+
+The "Groote" market is in the middle of the town, and here is to be seen
+one of the finest old buildings in this part of the country. This is the
+ancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and stone, and quaint and
+picturesque enough to charm the soul of an artist with an irresistible
+desire to carry it home upon his canvas.
+
+In the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk, an imposing and lofty
+structure, dating back to the end of the fifteenth century, with its
+tower of two hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty to the
+edifice. The interior will more than repay one for the time spent in
+examining it. The old walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time
+and cover the scars, many of which, history tells us, are the results of
+the Spanish siege. Here are odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive
+benches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling alone would convince one
+of the antiquity of this relic of the middle ages. The organ,
+constructed in 1735, was for many years looked upon as the most powerful
+in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in
+existence. It contains four keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five
+thousand pipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in diameter, and
+thirty two feet in length. We endeavor to persuade the rector to allow
+us to play upon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond flattery,
+coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to the rigid rules, which decree
+that recitals shall be held only on certain regular days. How we long to
+hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which has uplifted the soul of
+man, and bidden him look to God in his times of tribulation, or fill
+this lofty dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving in days of
+peace and prosperity. I think of the stories these old walls could tell
+of the cruelties of the Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep
+for paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one could write
+interminably of these old towns with their quaint and glowing pictures.
+At every turn a new and attractive scene presents itself, and we
+reluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied, and proceed to
+Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable resort on the coast of the Noord Zee.
+At the railway stations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne water
+in small glass bottles which is so popular throughout Holland, and which
+is sold much as peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The
+quality is excellent, and the price is so moderate that the use of this
+perfume is really carried to excess by tourists, who find that it not
+only refreshes one after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the
+face from dust and cinders.
+
+We alight at a small unpretentious station, the terminus of this
+railroad, and walk a short distance to the beach. The pure salt air
+seems like a delightful tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping
+gradually to the water which is very deep. With the white sand for a
+carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting our eyes upon the lovely scene
+which at every turn presents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail
+boats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is enhanced by the groups
+of sailors waiting for the tide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged
+faces and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to the artist.
+
+[Illustration: "Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian." (_See
+page 140._)]
+
+The season seems to be either early or late, for the people along the
+shore are scant in number. Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large
+comfortable seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the hotels and
+at the water's edge, and at a trifling cost, offer rest to the weary
+pedestrian, and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the
+embarrassing gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering
+fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with basket suspended from the
+shoulder, pausing before the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with
+importunities to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various other
+dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments,
+who charm us with their delightful melodies. Their music is superior to
+that which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia. In truth, in
+Holland and Germany, one rarely hears anything but good music from these
+bands of itinerant players, and operatic selections of the higher class
+are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries.
+
+A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment, and the quick
+witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune
+telling. We are told that they are always to be found here during the
+summer season, and are quite popular among the young and the credulous,
+who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future, and
+the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued
+southerners. Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed all the
+colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect: and now I discover in
+one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist, with a well covered
+canvas, upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy
+girl, while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background. I enter
+into conversation with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam, and
+is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country. She says: "If
+one will but open his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every
+corner of the province." And it is true. Nature has indeed been lavish
+in her gifts to Holland. Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in
+number, and indescribably attractive.
+
+The citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and hospitable. As an instance
+of their cordiality I mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor by
+a townsman Mr. L----, who says we must not return home without a glimpse
+of the social life of the city. The banquet is held at the largest and
+most popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier), and besides our host
+and his family, a few intimate friends and some young people are
+present. At the appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and handsome
+building, and are conducted to a beautiful apartment with most
+attractive surroundings. The first floor of this hall is elegantly
+furnished, and lit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other
+tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a cordial welcome from
+our host, we are led to the banqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the
+light and beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic effect.
+Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers, plants and fruits are
+picturesquely arranged, and even the electric lights exhibit various
+glowing designs. The feast is prepared under the direction of an
+experienced chef, and here we speedily become aware that the city of
+Amsterdam is not one whit behind the great centres of the world in this
+line of achievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and its people have
+been responded to, the hospitalities are concluded with one to "America
+and its beautiful women," and we take our departure after three hours
+most delightfully spent in social intercourse with our friends. Upon
+this occasion four languages, French, Dutch, German and English are
+fluently spoken.
+
+
+
+
+Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken.
+
+
+
+
+_Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken._
+
+  A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The
+  Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein
+  Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch
+  Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull Should
+  Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal Boat--Honesty and
+  Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious People--Farming and
+  Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for an Artist--Dead Cities of
+  Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the Age--City Lamps--Houses and
+  People--The Island of Marken--An Isolated Wonderland--First
+  Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family Doctor--Absence of the Men--The
+  Fishing--Healthy and Industrious population--The Women of
+  Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be Taken--A Valuable
+  Experience--Photographs.
+
+
+A beautiful trip is that to Broek. We take the small steamer that lies
+in the river a short distance from our hotel, the Amstel, and after a
+sail of three-quarters of an hour, are landed at an insignificant
+station on the opposite shore. Here a little car with bare wooden seats
+running lengthwise, and a queer looking engine waits for passengers from
+the boat. And now we ride through a picturesque farming country, passing
+numerous small stations. This road terminates at Edam, but we do not go
+that far. Our fellow-passengers are most interesting. Many of the women
+wear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroidered caps which are so
+quaint and becoming, and all wear the customary wooden shoes.
+
+The men have rugged brown faces, and sinewy arms: some of them wear the
+heavy wooden shoes, others slippers, while a number are barefooted. How
+they all stare at us, and it is just as impossible for us to withdraw
+our eyes from them. We are novel sights to each other. I wonder what
+they think of our appearance. Their faces are impassive, but ours must
+surely express wonder, admiration and a strong desire on the part of one
+at least, to capture these studies in color and figure that surround us
+on every side.
+
+The children, with their rosy cheeks and round healthy forms, seem merry
+and happy, although none of them are sociable or talkative with us. They
+look at us in amazement. This is a delightful ride over a smooth velvety
+road, with rich pasture land on either side. Now we pass great dikes
+which hold back the waters from these fertile fields; and now short
+canals with their little boats, on which perhaps the Dutch vrow in her
+snowy cap and gold head-dress is seated beside her husband who smokes
+his pipe with a meditative air. The flat landscape is varied by
+innumerable herds of cattle, principally of Holstein breed, with the
+great white bands encircling the bodies, which reminds me of the story
+of the Yankee who used this band for a foundation upon which to paint
+his sign: "The finest milk and cream in the world within. Price two
+cents per quart."
+
+[Illustration: "The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle." (_See
+page 153._)]
+
+Hundreds of windmills may be seen with their long wings gracefully
+moving at the touch of a gentle breeze, in perfect harmony with the
+surrounding landscape. These mills have been used for many centuries in
+Holland, which is their mother country, and serve for draining the land,
+or for manufacturing purposes. They are placed upon a substantial
+foundation of brick or stone, and their enormous sails describe a circle
+of over a hundred feet in diameter: some run saws that cut through logs
+of great thickness, while others are huge grain mills. The smaller
+windmills are made of wood like those seen in some portions of our own
+country. The system of irrigation by means of windmills is very complete
+in Holland, thus it is that we see everywhere such beautiful fertile
+fields. Many of the farms in this locality employ three or four, and
+even more windmills for this purpose.
+
+We see many farmers, with their wives and children, working in the
+fields, and they all stop for an instant as our train passes, to shout a
+merry greeting. Here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes along the road.
+Flocks of sheep stand in the shadow of the trees, and armies of quacking
+ducks emerge from a marshy pool and spread themselves across the green.
+
+The average speed of our antediluvian express is from five to seven
+miles an hour, but it is perfectly satisfactory to these deliberate
+people; and as to ourselves, we are enjoying everything too much to wish
+it shortened by one minute. We arrive, however, at Broek, which is
+celebrated as one of the cleanest towns in the world. It contains about
+sixteen hundred inhabitants, and its narrow streets are paved with
+yellow bricks which are kept scrupulously clean. The small frame houses
+have tiled roofs, and with their flower gardens, present an orderly
+appearance. The whole atmosphere of the place is one of primitive
+simplicity. Some of the buildings are painted white, some green, and
+others of a variety of hues. They all wear an indescribable air of
+repose: and it is said that the front doors are not opened from the
+beginning to the end of the year, except on the occasion of a wedding or
+a funeral. The gardens are veritable curiosities, with their
+old-fashioned flower-beds, and box-bushes cut into various fantastic
+shapes, and all so diminutive that one feels as though he has fallen
+upon an animated edition of the Noah's Ark of his childish days.
+
+[Illustration: "Most of the houses have a canal at the back." (_See page
+157._)]
+
+Most of the houses have a canal or small stream at the back, and close
+by, upon a washing-day, the garments of the family may be seen flying in
+the breeze, displaying to the stranger the prevailing colors of the
+community, which are red, white and blue. Red predominates, however,
+since red flannel is universally worn by the middle and lower classes in
+Holland. I think of the fine bull which we saw but a short time ago,
+grazing so peacefully in the meadow, and wonder what effect this
+exposure of tantalizing color would have upon his equanimity. Should he
+be let loose among the back gardens of Broek upon a washing-day, the
+order of this immaculate village would certainly receive a shock. For
+once in the history of the place, things would be topsy-turvy, and the
+excitement would doubtless surpass anything previously seen in this
+peaceful town.
+
+What beautiful and picturesque combinations are here! The varying shades
+of green and blue, mingled with harmonious tints of yellow, produce a
+scene for the impressionist, while the effect is enhanced by the
+streams and canals which wind in and out with many a turn and twist,
+apparently for the sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this
+quaint and unique locality.
+
+Occasionally we see a canal boat of larger size drawn by a buxom Dutch
+maiden and her brother; or not infrequently it is the old man and his
+wife, and sometimes the entire family all strenuously tugging the stout
+rope which is securely fastened to the bow of the boat, while the
+dilapidated old craft, laden with merchandise or produce creaks slowly
+on its way, breaking the placid surface of the water with a soft musical
+plash.
+
+Honesty and truthfulness are unmistakably impressed upon the faces of
+all whom we meet in this section. The people hereabouts do not possess
+the shrewd business capacity of our Wall Street brokers, but they are
+mild and pleasant, with a wholesome appearance of health and good
+appetite. They are individually as clean and orderly as is their
+village. Water is as cheap here as in America, but in this place there
+seems to be an extravagance in the use of it which far exceeds that of
+the same class in our country.
+
+There are no beggars or idlers here. The people are so thrifty and
+industrious that no portion of the day is wasted. Every one seems to
+have an appointed task, even the small children, whom we see feeding the
+ducks and pigs. All are engaged in some useful occupation.
+
+Farming and cheese-making are the principal industries, although other
+branches of business, such as stock-raising, fishing, boat-making, and
+the manufacture of wooden shoes, are carried on to some extent.
+
+Our visit to the village naturally attracts some attention, as
+foreigners are rarely seen in these out of the way corners.
+
+As evening steals upon us, the scene grows indescribably lovely, for the
+sun in his descent illumines the whole landscape with vivid gleams of
+many colors. The blue stream which finds its outlet in the larger river,
+changes its sombre hue to one of dazzling gold, which throws out rich
+reflections of clouds and foliage. A fairy-like transformation seems to
+have taken place in the streets and houses; and, as we leave the village
+and the shades of night fall about us, my thoughts are with the artist,
+the photographer, the impressionist, who would feel the most exquisite
+delight in such an opportunity; for he who could do justice to this
+landscape either with brush or camera, would produce a picture worthy
+of place among the noblest works of art.
+
+We have heard so much of the "Dead cities of Holland," and especially of
+the secluded life on the island of Marken, that we determine to see for
+ourselves what this term really signifies. On our way thither, we pass
+through the old town of Monnikendam, in which we behold many strange and
+curious sights. People and buildings impress us with the idea that
+"Father Time" has forgotten this place altogether in his rounds of
+cutting down and making place for newcomers. The ancient and picturesque
+houses look as though coeval with Time himself; but in truth they are
+only mediaeval; it is the people who have stood still. The present age
+has no place in their lives.
+
+The population of the town numbers about twenty-three hundred, and this
+is largely made up of children, judging from the appearance of the
+streets. The main street is wide and attractive, but the side streets
+are narrow, and all are paved with hard bricks placed edgewise. At night
+the town is lighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts: coal is generally
+used for fuel, but some of the residents use gasoline, which also serves
+for light. The houses are primitive in construction, and the people
+seem odd and inquisitive, but simple and economical in dress and
+habit. As we expect to return in a short time, we direct our course
+without delay to the Island of Marken.
+
+[Illustration: "The blue stream finds its outlet in the river." (_See
+page 159._)]
+
+A good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the Zuyder Zee, beside the banks of
+Monnikendam. The captain is a full-blooded "Markenite," born and bred on
+the island. Having made arrangements with him, we go on board and are
+soon on our way to the strange city: our hearts beat more quickly, and
+all eyes are eagerly strained toward it, when the distant island appears
+in the direction of our yacht's bow. After an hour's sail, we come to
+anchor in the harbor of this secluded wonderland. As we approach the
+town, the view from our boat seems to justify the title which has been
+given to it of "the Dead City." It lies away from everything and
+everybody, and save the deep sea which surrounds it, and which supplies
+its inhabitants with food, the island of Marken has for centuries known
+no association outside its own boundaries.
+
+No news is carried to or from this isolated region. At rare intervals an
+islander, by temperament more adventurous or enterprising than his
+fellows, makes the daring undertaking of a visit to Monnikendam, or the
+bolder flight to Amsterdam, although there are but few instances on
+record of such a reckless proceeding as the last. The place has a
+population of about thirteen hundred souls, and one may form an idea of
+the health of its inhabitants from the fact that one doctor, without an
+assistant, is the family physician for all the people on the island, and
+we are told that calls upon his professional attention are not
+sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from forming on his medicine
+chest.
+
+The Dutch language is spoken here, and it is so rare to find any one who
+understands English, that it is necessary to bring an interpreter as
+well as guide in visiting this secluded spot. The inhabitants look upon
+us as though we have dropped from the clouds, or sprung suddenly out of
+the earth. It is unfortunate that we have come here on Monday, for on
+this day the men of the island go off in their fishing boats, and do not
+return till Saturday night. Only the old and crippled are left with the
+women and children. Sunday is the one day in the week which the men may
+spend with their wives and sweethearts. Fishing is the sole means of
+subsistence here. The native inhabitants are industrious and economical,
+but of a low type of intellect, rarely if ever displaying interest in
+literary attainments. Health and good appetites seem to be their
+chief characteristics, and a more law-abiding, innocent and virtuous
+people it would be difficult to find. The women are large, muscular and
+well shaped, and appear fully able to protect and care for their
+households in the absence of the men.
+
+[Illustration: "All persuasions accomplish naught." (_See page 168._)]
+
+I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force of arms, some of
+these rare types of strength and beauty, and observing two pretty young
+girls standing in the doorway of one of the houses, both perfect
+specimens of physical health, I think this an opportunity not to be
+neglected. What a fine picture they present with their erect forms,
+their firm round arms, rosy cheeks and bright eyes! They are well
+proportioned, and looking at their smiling faces one can readily
+understand that a physician in a locality whose residents are
+represented by such glowing life as that which is now before me, may
+easily find time to be absent from his duties a year or two.
+
+Fired with enthusiasm, I approach the girls who are talking to a couple
+of old women, and am about to make a "snap shot" of the group, when
+suddenly perceiving my intention, they fly into the house like
+frightened deer, to the amusement of the old women, and the grief of the
+writer. Determined not to be outdone, for now this picture beyond all
+others is the desire of my heart, I enter the house and learn that the
+young damsels have sought refuge in the loft, and are hiding, ostrich
+like, with their heads buried in a mass of clothing. All my persuasions,
+aided by those of the older women, accomplish nought, even the liberal
+offer of silver guilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate maids,
+and I am obliged to relinquish my desire. However, I have made a
+valuable discovery, and that is that it is better under some
+circumstances not to ask for the privilege, but to resort to strategy. I
+request one or more of our party to engage the proposed subject in
+conversation, while I retire to a suitable distance with my camera,
+focus the group, then fire away. This plan succeeds admirably, and my
+collection increases steadily and satisfactorily.
+
+[Illustration: "One old woman is fascinated with the camera." (_See page
+171._)]
+
+However, upon better acquaintance with the townspeople and the repeated
+assurances of our skipper, who speaks some English, that our purpose is
+an innocent one, we are allowed to photograph the whole town freely, and
+all its valuable possessions. Occasionally a guilder slipped quietly
+into the hand of one of the older women opens a new vein of good
+fortune, for they insist that "the gentleman shall be allowed to take
+the picture;" whether it be an old-fashioned interior with its quaint
+belongings, or a pretty maid too shy to hold her head up properly. One
+old woman is so fascinated with the camera that she asks me to take
+picture after picture of her homely wrinkled countenance. At first I do
+so to her extreme delight, but finally I only pretend to take her
+picture, and the last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles are all
+wasted upon an unimpressionable plate.
+
+
+
+
+The Ancient Town of Monnikendam.
+
+[Illustration: "We walk along the narrow streets." (_See page 177._)]
+
+
+
+
+_The Ancient Town of Monnikendam._
+
+  Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient
+  Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The
+  Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone
+  Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient
+  Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult
+  Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the
+  Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the Shops--Pantomime--A
+  Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No Candles--We Attract a
+  Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A
+  Stranger to the Rescue.
+
+
+We walk along the narrow streets, some of which are paved with little
+footways, and now and then visit one of the whitewashed frame houses
+with their red tiled roofs. These houses are built after one pattern,
+and resemble each other so closely in their crude architecture, that a
+stranger might easily make a mistake, and enter the wrong door, without
+having previously taken anything stronger than a glass of water. The
+interior consists of four small rooms, which are kept scrupulously clean
+and orderly. One of these is used as a living-room, and one as
+dining-room and kitchen. The beds of the family are simply close, dark
+recesses in the wall, in which there are bunks or shelves, and on these
+the mattresses and bed clothing are placed, the occupants mounting by
+means of wooden steps to this ill-ventilated and most uninviting
+resting-place. We shudder as we glance into these dismal closets, and
+feel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping in one of them.
+
+In every house there seems to be reserved a special apartment, as a
+storage-place for the family heirlooms, and here are preserved articles
+which have been handed down from generation to generation for centuries.
+Dolls of various primitive shapes, broken and torn, with black, dusty
+clothing; clocks long since arrested in their career by age or accident;
+chairs of rude manufacture, with perhaps a broken leg or back; watches
+and jewelry of ancient design; odd furniture and pieces of china,
+besides other relics which would be useful only in an exhibition of the
+antique. All these things are sacred in the eyes of their owners, who
+would as soon think of parting with one of their children as of allowing
+one of these treasures to pass out of the family.
+
+At one of the houses I see stored among the heirlooms a clock, which
+the owner informs me has been in the family for two hundred and fifty
+years. I do not doubt the assertion, for it looks as though the dust of
+a _thousand_ years has silently but steadily accumulated upon its
+venerable face. I am about with my handkerchief to brush off some of
+this precious dust, in order to see the wood and brass in their peculiar
+coloring and design, but am quietly stopped by the hand of my host.
+
+There is a noticeable rivalry between the different families in regard
+to these treasures which are placed carefully away, as if too sacred for
+the light of day, and are shown to the visitor much as the guide
+employed in the mint allows one to touch a piece of gold or silver in
+the early process of coinage. Each family tries to outdo the others in
+its collection, and in the ancient appearance of the hoard. It is
+amusing to watch their faces, when exhibiting the wonders: they seem
+very uneasy if the stranger offers to touch one of the pieces, as though
+in terror lest it should thus lose some of those precious particles
+which enhance its value.
+
+At another house I am allowed, as a great favor, to examine one of the
+dolls, and really the anxiety shown until the owner has placed it once
+more in its place in his collection is ludicrous. The most delicate
+human being, or a piece of frail egg-shell china could not be more
+tenderly handled.
+
+These people are quite as quaint in appearance as in their customs. The
+old-time costume of the island is worn as in other parts of Holland, but
+here there is an intensity of ancientness, if I may use the expression,
+which must be seen in order to be fully appreciated. They really seem
+the remnants of a dead era, and in all their ways display a want of
+experience of the outside world, a lack of that perception which the men
+and women of to-day seem to inhale with the very atmosphere, which is
+truly astonishing. The marriage and betrothal customs are especially
+peculiar. We learn that an engaged couple cannot wed until five years
+have elapsed since the announcement of the betrothal; and should a death
+occur in either family in the meantime, it is considered such an ill
+omen that the engagement is broken off altogether: at the end of a year,
+however, a new engagement may be entered into, and after a second long
+period of waiting the wedding is consummated.
+
+[Illustration: "Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a
+homelike scene." (_See page 185._)]
+
+There are many rigid rules of etiquette connected with these
+engagements; for instance: should the young lover, upon each meeting,
+neglect to impress a kiss upon the cheek of every member of the
+family of his fiancee, the contract is annulled. One can readily believe
+almost any statement regarding these strange people who seem like a
+peculiar race stranded upon a desert island. Still from ocular
+demonstration, we feel very certain that notwithstanding these stringent
+rules, there is no lack of weddings among the young people, for there is
+an overwhelming number of children upon the island.
+
+Marken boasts of a hotel, and the owner and landlord tells us as he
+stands proudly upon its stoop, that this bold enterprise issued from his
+fertile brain, and that he is looking for a rich return for his venture.
+I respond with as much enthusiasm as I can gather upon this occasion,
+but fear he would receive but cold comfort from the true state of my
+mind on the subject. The building consists of six rooms which he
+pronounces quite modern. On the lower floor are a kitchen, ten feet by
+ten, and a dining-room, twelve by fourteen, which also serves as a
+barroom, sitting-room and smoking den, all rolled into one. Here the
+guests are supposed to reach the acme of ease and comfort. A bare wooden
+table and six chairs comprise the furniture of the room, and there is
+nothing else visible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang at the
+windows. Upstairs are three bedrooms, scantily furnished; here too the
+windows are curtained. The freshness of these rooms and their
+surroundings gives us the impression that they have never been occupied
+since the erection of the hotel a year ago, by any one of greater
+importance than the myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in lazy
+groups to the walls and ceilings. My sympathy goes out to these ignorant
+creatures who do not seem to have strength enough to get away, and seek
+their nourishment in other quarters.
+
+We find tolerably comfortable accommodations here, and view things very
+philosophically on account of the curious and interesting life by which
+we are surrounded. The men and women in their odd costumes are rare
+pictures. The clothing worn here is of a style worn hundreds of years
+ago, and there is no consciousness on the part of its wearers that there
+is anything unusual in its appearance. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis
+folly to be wise," and it is more than probable that they will continue
+to wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to come.
+
+Much of the washing is done in the little canal which flows through the
+town, and this is easily accomplished, as linen is not worn to any great
+extent, as in other places, and the coarse homespun garments are
+cleansed by a very simple process.
+
+Sheep, grazing upon many of the green pasture lands, form a homelike,
+peaceful scene which is very attractive. The air is fresh, yet balmy,
+imparting tone and vigor to the sturdy natives.
+
+At last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon the earth's surface,
+wondering if an earthquake or any other startling event will ever happen
+here to rouse it from its lethargy, and compel it to take its place in
+the march of the ages. If not, it will remain as of old, a boon to the
+artist, an infinite source from which he may draw quaint, ideal and most
+original studies of a people and an era whose counterpart has long since
+vanished from our everyday world.
+
+In our travels in the northern portion of Holland, and away from the
+larger cities, as Amsterdam and Rotterdam, which are more visited by
+tourists, we find that our letters of credit extend over an astonishing
+space of time, for a little money goes a long way among these people.
+The regions seem to be too remote for the regular tourist, and as there
+is no great influx of capital from that source, there is no inducement
+for the people to change their simple and primitive mode of living,
+hence honesty, frugality and contentment reign here, and the visitor
+may enjoy to its full extent, the beautiful country and the pure,
+innocent life of its inhabitants.
+
+The quaint and simple town of Monnikendam lies some fifteen or sixteen
+miles north of Amsterdam, and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient
+associations. Eyes, ears and brain are almost bewildered by the
+exquisite strangeness of our surroundings. Here are houses with the date
+of their birth inscribed over the doorways, and the odd designs of
+bygone centuries still clinging to their walls.
+
+These ancient dates and the rich beauty of these aged tenements impress
+us with a feeling of awe, and we walk softly as we pass the hallowed
+ground upon which so many lives have risen, passed their little day,
+then vanished to make place for the next players. Of the two hotels
+which the town supports, we choose the oldest, the Hotel de Posthoorn,
+which derives its name from the fact that at an early date the building
+was used as a post office station. In those days the postman carried a
+horn, which he blew when approaching a station, as a notice to the
+townfolk to have their mail ready for collection, that he might not be
+detained, as his route was long and wearisome.
+
+[Illustration: "Hotel de Posthoorn." (_See page 186._)]
+
+We are conducted to the second floor of the hotel by a steep and narrow
+stairway, which requires much ingenuity in the ascent, as the steps are
+constructed at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult to balance
+one's self upon them. We reach the top as gracefully as possible under
+the circumstances, and find two pleasant communicating rooms overlooking
+the main street. Rooms, beds and all our surroundings are wonderfully
+clean, and filled with an atmosphere of the past, which is very
+charming. The rates charged here are seven dollars a week for each
+person, and this includes meals and attendance: the latter simply a
+pleasant fiction, with no meaning whatever.
+
+The sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen of good quality, but
+emitting such an odor of antiquity, that there is no doubt whatever in
+our minds that they are heirlooms of many generations, and we wish that
+this genuine, ancient and unpleasant smell could be scattered abroad, or
+adulterated in some way, even to the extent of a pair of modern sheets,
+for concentrated age is more attractive in sights than in odors.
+
+Our hotel bears the date 1697 upon a fancifully carved tablet above the
+middle window, but the Stadhuis Tower is still older, dating back to
+1592. The proprietor, his wife and daughter are pleasant, hospitable
+people, who make our stay with them, both comfortable and enjoyable.
+Before supper we stroll about the town, which consists of a main or
+central avenue, with small narrow streets diverging from it. As we walk
+along, a little crowd, composed chiefly of children, follows us closely.
+These young people stare at us, and laugh as though we are a freshly
+imported menagerie. On our return, we sit in front of the hotel where
+some chairs and small tables are placed for the convenience of those who
+wish to rest and sip their glass of beer or genuine Holland gin in the
+open. The favorite beverages in Holland are beer, porter and gin, the
+latter of an excellent quality, and genuinely "old."
+
+We are soon surrounded by a group of children, who watch our motions and
+by words and gestures freely express their wonder and amusement at the
+odd-looking stranger people. They seem greatly surprised that we do not
+understand their language: not even such simple phrases as "Goeden
+avond," (Good-evening), or "Ja," (Yes), and "Nee," (No). When I make
+them understand that in English yes and no are the same as their ja and
+nee, they laugh immoderately, and repeat in their own broad accents,
+yes and no, as if greatly amused.
+
+After supper, which consists of cold fish, coffee, cheese, boiled
+potatoes and tea with a private nip of the real ancient Holland gin, we
+walk out again without a guide, to do some shopping. We have a funny
+experience, as we are compelled to resort to pantomime in making the
+various purchases. Entering a "general" store in search of candles, we
+at first ask for them in English: the good-natured shopwoman smiles and
+shakes her head. I repeat the word "candles," at the same time going
+through the motion of striking a match on the counter, and holding it up
+to the end of my forefinger. This strange proceeding attracts the
+attention of a young man and woman, who draw near the counter, followed
+by several other members of the family, but I cannot make them
+comprehend. We then try the French language, but this also proves a
+failure, so we are obliged to depart without our candles, although I am
+confident they have them somewhere in the store.
+
+Scene after scene of this kind is gone through with in the different
+shops, and now our curious actions have attracted a large crowd of
+people who follow close at our heels, wondering what we will do next,
+and thinking, no doubt, that we are a very good kind of free show. Such
+strange beings rarely visit their isolated town, and they are certainly
+enjoying their opportunity to its full extent. When we stop to look into
+a shop-window, they stop too, and follow our example like very shadows.
+The expression of wonder and merriment depicted on the countenances of
+both young and old is a fine study for an artist.
+
+As we saunter leisurely along, we espy a clothing store, which we enter,
+and find half-a-dozen men lounging about with long clay pipes in their
+mouths, and their hands in the pockets of their baggy trousers. Their
+faces wear a peaceful, contented expression, which changes to a look of
+surprise as we approach them, and they scan our attire, as something
+wholly different from anything to which they are accustomed. The gaping
+throng outside besieges the doorway. As the men still gaze curiously at
+us, I draw near the one who appears to be the proprietor of the
+establishment, and in pantomime, aided by English, interspersed with a
+little French, ask for a Marken suit of clothes. The man laughs and
+looks perplexed; his companions also shake their heads in token that
+they do not understand. With serious countenances and widely-opened
+eyes, they follow the motions of my lips and hands. Uttering slowly
+the words: "Marken suit," I point to my own trousers, coat and vest.
+Their eyes follow my hands, first to my trousers, then to my coat and
+vest. It is a difficult position; but what a treat to watch their
+puzzled countenances, now smiling, now with a look of actual pain in
+their efforts to understand.
+
+[Illustration: "De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam." (_See page 190._)]
+
+At last my perseverance and their attention are rewarded, and the
+storekeeper takes from a shelf a dusty bundle, and carefully unfolds it.
+Within the bundle is a Marken suit: yes, the very kind I wish to
+possess, an entire woman's dress. I am anxious to purchase it at any
+reasonable figure. The garment is passed to us for inspection. We nod in
+indication that it is just what we desire. Now for the tug of war; the
+price. "Combien? Combien?" Finally thirty guilders is named as the price
+set upon the dress. We motion, "Too high," and I point to the ceiling.
+The six weary men all look up in the direction of my finger: they smile,
+and think it is a good joke, and look at me as though saying: "What
+next?" They laugh heartily at my vain endeavors. Alas! How can I make
+them understand? "Fifteen guilders," I say. The proprietor seems to
+understand. "Nee. Nee. Ik kan het niet doen." (No. No. I cannot do it.)
+
+After long deliberation, still holding the cherished suit in his hands,
+he turns to his companions, and seems to ask their opinion. Several
+shake their heads and utter: "Nee. Nee," others say: "Ja. Ja." One
+suggests twenty-five guilders as the price; another twenty guilders. The
+bargaining goes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion, when to
+our relief a gentleman enters the shop who understands the language of
+these people. He has learned from the outsiders that some Americans are
+in the store trying to buy a suit of clothes. Through the kindness of
+this stranger, matters are speedily adjusted, and the sale effected, as
+he speaks both Dutch and English fluently. We purchase the complete suit
+for fifteen guilders, or about six dollars in the currency of the United
+States.
+
+These suits are rarely made for sale, but only when needed for immediate
+use. The natives of the island make them for personal wear, or for each
+other. Every man and woman generally owns two suits: one to wear every
+day, and one for Sundays.
+
+As we move toward the door to take our departure, after spending
+three-quarters of an hour over this transaction, we perceive that the
+throng around the door has increased in numbers. What an assemblage!
+And we are the curiosities. I count them, and find there are thirty men,
+women and children, all full of excitement at the presence of strangers
+in Monnikendam. One young girl is so shy and timid, that as we advance
+toward her on our way out, she starts and runs hurriedly away, and gazes
+at us from a distance of some twenty feet, as though we are dangerous
+animals.
+
+We make several other purchases; partly because we desire the articles,
+but chiefly on account of our enjoyment of this novel mode of shopping.
+
+[Illustration: "There is a young man whose walk is all his own." (_See
+page 211._)]
+
+
+
+
+Old Customs and Quaint Pictures.
+
+[Illustration: "The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean."
+(_See page 211._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Old Customs and Quaint Pictures._
+
+  Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Goeden Morgan"--The Zuyder Zee--By
+  Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women and
+  Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and
+  Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the
+  People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug
+  Stores--"Horretje"--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave their
+  Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught Girl.
+
+
+In Holland, segars and tobacco of very good quality are sold at low
+prices: it is not uncommon to buy two segars for one cent (United States
+currency) and should you be detected smoking an article costing more
+than a penny, you are immediately stamped as a wealthy and extravagant
+personage. This reputation is easily acquired in a town of such thrifty
+habits as Monnikendam, and here my fondness for a good smoke lays me
+open to both charges.
+
+A row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day, if you do your own
+rowing; with a man to row, the charge is forty cents. We find it
+convenient to hire a man, who also serves as guide and interpreter, and
+who rows us to many lovely nooks and out-of-the-way spots, which we
+would otherwise miss seeing.
+
+The inhabitants of the town are kind and hospitable, and we are charmed
+with their good, honest countenances. We are always greeted with a
+pleasant "Goeden morgen," or "Goeden avond," or it may be: "Hoe staat
+het leven?" (How are you?), when we pass them on the street.
+
+The country about here is principally farm land, with rich and abundant
+pasturage. A short distance from us is the placid Zuyder Zee, with its
+shining waters stretching eastward for miles. From its picturesque banks
+may be seen boats of every size and kind, from the tiniest row boat to
+craft of many tons' burden, and it is interesting to observe from this
+point the busy life upon the water, as produce, farm implements and
+merchandise are carried to and fro.
+
+[Illustration: "The whole place is a succession of quaint and
+picturesque houses." (_See page 216._)]
+
+As I sit writing in my room, by the light of a homemade candle, I now
+and then pause in my occupation to look around with an ever increasing
+wonder, at the dark old furniture over which the light casts a ghostly
+gleam. The spirit of the past seems lurking in the corners, with their
+long forgotten history, and around yonder ancient cupboard and brass
+trimmed chest of drawers. I can almost feel upon my shoulder the
+touch of the hand which has carried this quaint old candlestick in those
+olden days, and in imagination, hear the rustle of her gown as she
+stands behind me waiting for her own. It is ten o'clock, and I walk to
+the window and draw aside the curtain, curious to see the life that is
+abroad in the town at this hour. To my astonishment there are no signs
+of life of any kind. The town lies in total darkness. There is not a
+glimmer of light anywhere, save the dim glow from a lantern dangling
+carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who moves slowly and quietly
+along the sidewalk. There is no other evidence of any living thing. Even
+the frogs and crickets, which enliven a night scene at home, are not
+heard here. Dead silence prevails, while
+
+  "Night, sable goddess, from her ebon throne,
+   In rayless majesty now stretches forth
+   Her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world."
+
+Even the stars are slumbering, or their sparkle has been engulfed by
+this all-devouring darkness. The light of my candle seems out of harmony
+with the peaceful repose around me: with a half-guilty feeling I
+extinguish it, and wrapping myself in sheets of Holland linen, am soon
+slumbering with the rest of the world.
+
+In the morning, when seated at the breakfast table, my first question to
+our host is as to the reason for such all-pervading darkness, and the
+absence of the townspeople from the streets at night. He tells me that
+it is so rare for any one to be abroad after nine o'clock in the
+evening, that the street lamps, of which there are but few, are never
+lighted. At ten o'clock every one is supposed to be at home and in bed.
+
+The women and girls of this and the neighboring towns are thrifty and
+industrious. When resting after their daily labors, whether at noon or
+in the evening, they will invariably take from their deep side-pockets a
+ball of thread or yarn, and with the short knitting needle, or the long
+ones of steel, continue their work on an unfinished stocking, cap or
+other article of wearing apparel.
+
+The prevailing foot-covering for men, women and children is a heavy
+woolen stocking; this fits the foot snugly, and protects it from the
+hardness of the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called. These shoes
+are carved from a single block of wood: when they are worn and shabby
+they are painted black, and a strap is placed across the instep. They
+are of all sizes, but only one style or pattern. In the larger cities,
+however, such as Rotterdam, one can obtain from the manufacturers a
+painted wooden shoe, with buttons and stitches carved upon it as
+ornaments. But this variation is found only in men's shoes. In Holland
+the ordinary American slipper is frequently worn by both men and women.
+
+The clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an unpleasant sound,
+especially when several persons are walking together, but the ear soon
+becomes accustomed to it, as to all other odd noises. There is a young
+man in this place, who walks with a peculiar shuffle, all his own. He is
+so strange looking altogether that I snap my camera on him one day as he
+innocently passes by me. The peculiar sound of his walk has taught me to
+know that he is coming long before his figure is visible. I sometimes
+feel like telling him in the words of Byron, that
+
+            "He has no singing education,
+  An ignorant, noteless, timeless, tuneless fellow."
+
+The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean, as the women of
+each household scrub not only their sidewalks, but half-way across the
+street in front of their dwellings. One may thus imagine what a charming
+and inviting place this is for the pedestrian.
+
+In this peaceful town where the golden rule is not simply a precept to
+frame and hang upon the wall, it is not necessary to employ officials
+with such high sounding but meaningless titles as "Street Commissioner,"
+"Director of the Highways," etc., etc. No, here each individual
+possesses sufficient honor and self-respect to accomplish his own share
+of municipal work, to the benefit and comfort of the whole community.
+
+There is one very ancient custom still existing here which interests and
+entertains us greatly. This is the old fashion of employing a town
+crier, who after beating a brass disk which is suspended by a cord from
+his shoulder, calls out in a loud, clear voice, the news of the day,
+events in foreign lands, transfers of property, sales and auctions which
+have already taken place or are to occur in the near future, lost and
+found articles and the like. For instance: he walks a distance of a
+block or two, then stops in the middle of the street, beats the brass
+disk vigorously with a small striker, and casting his head heavenward,
+utters the phrases which have been prepared and given to him in
+stereotyped tones. Thus the town receives its news, and the crier keeps
+those who never stir from their homes as well as the business men of the
+city informed of the most prominent events of their own and other
+countries. What better method could be employed in the absence of
+newspapers? The community is kept in touch with the outside world and
+with its own members by means of this odd and ancient custom.
+
+[Illustration: "A street auction." (_See page 220._)]
+
+I have the pleasure of a personal association with the crier. Our party
+is so much annoyed by the continual staring of the people, who seem
+unable to become accustomed to our appearance in the town, and who
+follow us constantly day and evening when we walk upon the streets, that
+I decide to try some means to stop it. The proprietor of the hotel, at
+my request, adds another sentence to the daily bulletin; it runs as
+follows: "The three Americans now stopping at the Posthoorn Hotel must
+not be annoyed by the good people of this town. It is not good manners
+to stare at them and follow them, and it is unpleasant to these
+strangers."
+
+The day following my request, I listen anxiously for the voice of the
+crier, and his appearance in our neighborhood. Here he comes; and the
+message is rolled forth in sonorous tones. I seek the landlord and ask
+him if the notice is to be circulated throughout the town; and he
+replies in the affirmative. In justice to the inhabitants, I must state
+that they heed the request, and hereafter go on their way without undue
+excitement or comment when we appear among them; much to our own comfort
+and enjoyment.
+
+Few horses are seen upon these streets: wagons are drawn by two, three,
+or four huge draught dogs, trained for this purpose. Men are also
+frequently harnessed to wagons, as well as women, and sometimes a woman
+and dog will appear together drawing a load of merchandise.
+
+Milk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry on their shoulders a
+strong wooden yoke: from the ends of this the milk pails are suspended
+by ropes. Vegetables and other provisions are delivered in the same
+manner. The milkmaid passes from door to door, rapping on each with the
+ancient brass knocker, and serving her customer with the milk as it is
+served with us.
+
+The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses. The
+shapes are various, and the heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a
+charming effect as they stand in rows on either side of the street. Each
+house seems to possess an individual style of its own, and many are so
+old that they lean quite out of the perpendicular.
+
+[Illustration: "At the farthest end of the street stands an old
+windmill." (_See page 223._)]
+
+While travelling in Holland one is constantly confronted with a sign in
+the form of a wooden arm stretched from a doorway, with a brass disk
+suspended from it containing the words:
+
+  Hier scheert en snyd men het haar,
+
+which signifies that here one can be shaved and have his hair cut: in
+other words, it is the sign of a barber, who in America designates his
+calling by the gayly-colored pole. The brass disks in front of these
+places are polished to a high state of brilliancy, and being suspended
+so that they swing loosely in the breeze, they cast dazzling reflections
+in all directions which cannot fail to attract the attention of the
+passer-by. Another advertisement which differs greatly from those in our
+country is that of the drug store. While with us huge glass vases and
+globes of different colors are displayed in the window of the
+apothecary, in Holland a wooden head of a man in great agony, with
+protruding tongue, indicates that here the sufferer can find relief and
+medicine for all his aches and pains. This head is conspicuously placed
+over the entrance to the drug store.
+
+Another odd custom in this strange country is that of placing a large
+screen called a "Horetje" in the front windows of private houses, or on
+the first floors. The screen is sometimes shaped like a fan, sometimes
+it is heart-shaped or oval, and is intended to protect the person
+seated at the door or window from the idle gaze of the pedestrian.
+Indeed it often hides a charming picture of maiden grace and modesty.
+
+One day as I am sitting at the door of the hotel attempting to sketch
+some of the picturesque houses in the neighborhood, with many wondering
+eyes directed toward my canvas, I notice a crowd of people beginning to
+gather a short distance off. I do not see the centre of attraction, but
+seizing my camera, which is my constant companion, together with pencils
+and brushes, which are as close friends as Robinson Crusoe and his man
+Friday, I hasten to the scene of action, feeling that probably something
+is going to happen which will add a new page to my experience. It is
+true: something interesting is about to take place; and that is a street
+auction, a common occurrence in this town. The auctioneer, perched above
+the heads of his audience upon an old wooden box, is calling out his
+sales in Dutch. The articles which he is about to dispose of to the
+highest bidders are dress goods, linen and wearing apparel. Much
+persuasion is necessary before a sale is effected, as the strong desire
+of the customers to obtain bargains is met by an equally strong
+determination on the part of the auctioneer to sell his stock at good
+prices. A funny sort of a seesaw is the result, which is the source of
+much merriment among the spectators. I join in some of these outbursts
+from pure sympathy, as most of the time I do not understand either the
+jokes or allusions. A lively business is frequently carried on at these
+auctions; but whether the purchaser really obtains more for his money
+than by the ordinary method of buying I cannot ascertain. I presume they
+think they have some advantage, or they would not flock to the sales in
+such numbers.
+
+[Illustration: "A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town." (_See
+page 224._)]
+
+An active branch of business here is the sale of curios, antique
+silverware, china, gold, jewels, and bric-a-brac; in fact ancient
+articles of every description.
+
+As we walk down the Main street, admiring the clean highway and lovely
+old houses on either side of us, we observe many pairs of wooden shoes
+lying in front of the different residences near the doorways, and upon
+inquiry learn that when one person goes to call upon another, he leaves
+his heavy wooden shoes outside the door, and enters in his stocking
+feet.
+
+At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill with its huge
+arms moving slowly and regularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which
+blows across the Zuyder Zee. As we draw nearer, we see that it is an
+ancient grist mill, and here is the owner, who invites us in to view the
+interior, and with whom we have a pleasant chat in our own colloquial
+style, adopted since our arrival in this city. Dozens of windmills can
+be seen from this point, and, as I have already said, they are used for
+many different purposes. The foundation story is the home of the family,
+and in a number of these you will find quaint, delightful pictures of
+old Dutch interiors, with their odd chairs and dressers, ancient clocks
+and brass bound chests, old-fashioned china, and tiled fireplaces.
+
+There is a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town, encircling the
+whole city. Large trees here protect Monnikendam from the heavy wind and
+rain storms which come from the Zuyder Zee, when old Neptune rises in
+one of his dreadful tantrums. We enjoy this lovely walk, but what do we
+not enjoy in this town which surely has bound us by some magic spell;
+for the longer we stay here, the more loath we are to leave its borders.
+
+One day we take a boat and direct our course along one of the canals, on
+which there is considerable traffic. Here we behold the pitiable sight
+of two young girls, harnessed like mules, and attached to a lead rope,
+pulling inch by inch, and foot by foot, a large canal-boat filled with
+merchandise.
+
+I can imagine no harder work than this, for the poor creatures are
+exposed to the intense heat of the sun, with no protection against its
+direct rays, and they have a long slow journey before them, ere the
+heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by foot shall reach its
+destination. The toil of the factory girl in America is play when
+compared with that of the draught girl in Holland.
+
+[Illustration: "Land and water." (_See page 224._)]
+
+
+
+
+A Dutch Cheese-making District.
+
+[Illustration: "A good road for the bicycle." (_See page 239._)]
+
+
+
+
+_A Dutch Cheese-making District._
+
+  A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An
+  Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow
+  Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The
+  Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip to
+  Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled Dogs--The Only
+  Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay Decorations--A United People--As
+  a Hen and Her Brood--Their Wealth is Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart
+  Men and Sturdy Women--A Higher Type--"I have enough"--Fishermen--The
+  Anchorage--A Volendam Suit.
+
+
+To-day we take the train for Edam, of world-wide fame as a cheese-making
+centre. This town, situated about five miles north of Monnikendam,
+abounds in beautiful old trees which protect it from the heat of the
+sun, and render it very attractive. All of these towns seem to possess
+individual interest, and the traveller is constantly surprised in this
+region by new and unexpected scenes: but the imprint of truth and
+honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in every town, village and
+settlement in Holland is observed as the common bond of union, and leads
+us to understand the happiness and prosperity for which this region is
+justly celebrated.
+
+It is hardly necessary to say that many cheese factories are scattered
+throughout this section of the country. At one of these factories,
+located on the bank of the canal, we see a large barge being loaded with
+five thousand of the delicious Edam cheeses, intended for foreign
+markets. We stop for rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on the
+way. This house is a fine subject for an artist. The room in which our
+meal is served is in itself a masterpiece. The floor, composed of large
+stone flags, is spotlessly clean, and the walls are covered with odd
+pieces of china, evidently associated with family history: the woodwork
+is as white as soap and sand can make it, and the windows are as clear
+as crystal. In a corner stands the old Dutch clock, with the moon, now
+nearly full, represented above its time-worn face, and on one side is
+the dark dresser, rich in ancient plates, and other quaint old-fashioned
+crockery. The table at which we sit is covered with a snowy cloth of
+homespun linen, and the blue and white dishes with the stories upon them
+which have been thus told for unknown ages almost charm us into
+forgetfulness of our luncheon itself, until a healthy cheerful country
+girl appears, and with deft movements and smiling face places before us
+the appetizing cheese, delicious bread, freshly churned butter, and new
+milk as well as buttermilk. For this but a trifling charge is made, but
+we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old Dutch interior, the sight of
+these brass-bound chests and claw-footed chairs, and the picture of the
+cheerful Holland maid are worth many times the cost of the meal.
+
+We are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty farmer whose home is
+about a mile from Monnikendam. This well-to-do personage owns a large
+dairy farm, and learning that we are interested in this subject, invites
+us to be present at sunrise to witness the process of cheese-making. An
+early hour finds us on the way, and in good time a rap on the door of
+the farmhouse brings us into the presence of a bright middle-aged Dutch
+vrow, who with a cherry "Goeden morgen" bids us enter. We are first
+ushered into the parlor, which is a room of considerable size,
+immaculately clean, with comfortable chairs and sofas placed in various
+corners, and a supply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks that
+fill our hearts with longing. In a few moments we are invited to the
+adjoining room, which we suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room, but
+to our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable, a spacious, well
+lighted apartment, about seventy feet long and fifteen feet wide. A row
+of stalls runs along one side of the room, and here stand as many of the
+genuine, full blooded Holstein cattle. They are handsome creatures,
+looking as sleek and clean as those which take the premiums at the state
+and county fairs at home. Here they stand, patiently awaiting the
+appearance of the milkmaid; not however the milkmaid, "all forlorn" of
+nursery rhyme, but in truth
+
+  The pretty maid with dress so clean,
+  With shining pail and face serene,
+  Who milks the cows with happy smile,
+  And sings her joyous songs the while.
+
+The stalls are as sweet, clean and orderly as is the parlor which we
+have just left, and snowy curtains hang above the windows over them, the
+only apparent difference between the stable and the parlor being that
+the cattle stand upon fresh, fragrant straw, instead of a clean carpet.
+From the stable we are conducted to an adjoining building, which is the
+cheese factory, and to the room in which are assembled the farmer, his
+wife and two servants. Everything is in readiness: the fresh milk is
+poured into a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor, and which
+is capable of holding about twenty gallons: a small quantity of rennet
+is put into the milk, and in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is
+passed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass. These sieves or
+curd-knives have handles by which they are held while the blades are
+drawn from side to side, cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes.
+Then the farmer's wife rolls up her sleeves, exposing to view a pair of
+round, shapely arms which would be the pride of a city belle, and dips
+both hands and arms deep in the floating mass. She presses, and kneads
+and rolls this thickening body until it assumes the consistency of
+dough: the whey is bluish in color, and as thin as water. This is
+drained off, and water is poured over the mass several times, until the
+cheese is thoroughly cleansed of all the floating particles. It is now
+ready to be placed in five pound moulds made of wood: the moulds are put
+into a powerful press which shapes the cheese, and extracts any lurking
+remnants of water. After about eight hours in the press, the cheeses are
+salted and placed on shelves to dry. Now for a month it is necessary to
+turn them every day, and after that, every other day for a month. They
+are also sponged with lukewarm water and dried in the open air, and the
+final process is a thin coat of linseed oil. It is a tedious operation;
+great care is necessary to keep the chamber in which they are shelved
+perfectly clean and dry, and of an even temperature. At last the
+articles are ready for shipment to all parts of the world. This is an
+enormous industry: in North Holland alone, we are informed that
+twenty-six million pounds of cheese are produced per annum.
+
+The portion of the process witnessed by us occupies about an hour and a
+half: these cheeses are worth from the farmer's hands fifty or sixty
+cents apiece.
+
+There is a little boy ten or twelve years of age about here who seems to
+derive great pleasure from our society, although he cannot understand
+one word of English. One day, after sitting quietly for a long time,
+while we are conversing together, he repeats impatiently in his own
+language: "I have listened and listened to your talk, and I cannot
+understand one word. I do not think you are talking sense at all."
+
+Alas, poor child! You are not the only one who has listened and
+listened, trying in vain to find a gleam of intelligence in the
+foreigner's gibberish. Ignorance of the language of a nation causes it
+to appear to one like a vast sealed volume, which he knows only by the
+pictures on the title page.
+
+I have written at length of the Island of Marken, one of the most noted
+of the "Dead cities of Holland," and now, let us take a peep at the
+sister city of Volendam, which lies four miles north of Monnikendam. As
+we do not wish to visit this place when all the men are off on their
+fishing expeditions, we choose for our excursion a clear bright Sunday,
+a day on which the men will surely be at home, and their sea horses at
+anchor in the harbor.
+
+Procuring a large carriage and a powerful horse, a difficult thing to
+obtain at short notice, we direct our driver to jog along slowly that we
+may enjoy the beauty of the surrounding country. We drive over a fine
+road, level and well ballasted; a good road for the bicycle: in fact all
+the roads of Holland, city and country, are kept in perfect condition.
+It is a charming day, and the balmy atmosphere and the refreshing breeze
+which sweeps over the Zuyder Zee have a soothing effect upon mind and
+body. This would be a great country for invalids, and those who seek
+rest and change from the demands of fashion and social life. There is no
+fashion here; only pure air and lovely peaceful beauty everywhere, with
+good wholesome food and kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the
+weary stranger. Added to this is the very moderate cost of a sojourn in
+this delightful region.
+
+Occasionally we pass a small cart or wagon drawn by dogs, the driver a
+young girl who is comfortably seated in the vehicle, now and then
+administering to the animals, by means of a short stick, reminders not
+to lag on the way. These dogs are not the ordinary house dog which is
+seen in our country; but are powerful and muscular creatures, as perhaps
+I have already said, and so cross and savage when roused, that to secure
+the safety of the persons near them they are closely muzzled. Being
+ignorant of their peculiar traits, one day while admiring a couple of
+fine draught dogs which are resting near a wagon, I approach them too
+closely; my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled as one of them springs
+viciously at me, striking me heavily on the chest, and he certainly
+would have chipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body had his
+muzzle not prevented this catastrophe. Hereafter I keep a distance of
+many feet between me and these animals, and others of their species.
+
+[Illustration: "This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the
+town." (_See page 243._)]
+
+After a lovely drive of an hour, we arrive at the old town which is as
+wonderful and interesting as its sister city. It too is built upon the
+banks of the Zuyder Zee. We stand upon the only street in the place,
+which in appearance resembles the back bone of a whale, with small brick
+houses on either side. This strange looking highway runs lengthwise
+through the town. The street is narrow: horses and dogs are never seen
+upon it, but there are hundreds of children, who gather in great throngs
+around our horse, wondering at the strange animal, and declaring him to
+be a huge dog, for many of them have never seen a horse before. Our
+appearance is also a great event to them, and the visit creates as much
+excitement on one side as the other. It is a "red letter day" for both
+the townspeople and ourselves.
+
+The houses are roofed with red tiles, which exhibit many different
+shapes and styles, and we perceive numerous flags floating from the
+windows, and decorations of gay bunting. Upon asking the reason of this
+festive appearance in the isolated and usually quiet city, we are
+informed that they are in honor of a wedding which is to take place
+within a few days. A wedding in this town is an occasion of great
+rejoicing, and every household enters into the spirit of the
+entertainment with enthusiasm, as the whole community resembles one
+large family, and from the least to the greatest, they are all well
+known to each other. The affairs of one are the affairs of all, hence a
+single marriage becomes the festive occasion of the entire population.
+This is not strange when one recollects that the people have no other
+means of entertainment, such as theatres, concert halls or libraries,
+whist or euchre parties. They have nothing save the individual
+happenings in the domestic lives of the different families.
+
+A woman whose children are sitting quietly upon the curb stone near us,
+looks hurriedly around the door of her house, and seeing the commotion
+which our arrival excites, calls anxiously for her "kids" to come to her
+protecting arms, in mortal fear lest one of her brood should be carried
+off by these strange and unexpected visitors. As I look around, and
+behold the robust and muscular physiques of both men and women, I think
+any one would be daring indeed who would attempt to carry off a child or
+any other possession from these people in opposition to their wills.
+
+[Illustration: "The houses are roofed with red tiles." (_See page
+243._)]
+
+The women and children here are richly endowed with the blessings of
+health and strength. The whole population of thirteen hundred people
+employ but one doctor, who has time to grow rusty in his profession, so
+few are the demands upon his skill. I suggest to him on the occasion
+of a meeting, that he adopt the Chinese plan of remuneration, that is
+that the people pay him an annuity as long as they are well, and that
+when they are sick, they be entitled to his services gratis.
+
+The natives of Holland are not inclined to excesses of any kind, and
+they thus enjoy the full benefit of naturally sound constitutions, and
+are able to transmit to their children perfect, unimpaired health. As we
+stroll along this backbone of a street without name or pretensions, we
+stop at many of the doorways to talk with the residents, and soon become
+impressed with the hospitality of the people, who are arrayed in all the
+glory of their Sunday finery, and appear at the fronts of their homes
+happy in the consciousness that they as well as all their surroundings
+are in "apple pie order." We are as much interested in them as they are
+in us, and that is saying a great deal.
+
+The great, stalwart fellows with their broad shoulders and rugged faces
+are indeed true types of all that is brave and manly. A loose shirt and
+baggy trousers, with a small cloth cap is the ordinary costume of the
+men, many of whom wear wooden shoes; leather slippers are also worn. The
+women are equally brave and strong in appearance, and as large in
+proportion as the men. Their sturdy forms and healthy faces are rare
+models for the artist's brush. Their dress is of homespun linen,
+generally dyed blue, and is composed of several pieces; sometimes these
+are of various colors combined in a picturesque and effective
+arrangement. The head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becoming:
+indeed many of our fashionable belles might greatly improve their
+appearance by adopting the charming coiffure of these pretty and
+apparently unconscious Holland girls and women. These people represent a
+higher type of humanity than the inhabitants of Marken: their
+intelligence and refinement are more marked, but they have the sunny
+temperaments and contented dispositions characteristic of the
+Hollanders, and though ignorant of the customs of the outside world, and
+limited in their lives to a narrow sphere, they are a happy and
+satisfied people. They seem in that happy state of mind, so rarely
+possessed, in which they can say _I have enough_. Happiness consists not
+in possessing much, but in being content with what we possess. He who
+wants little always has enough.
+
+These men, like those in the neighboring Island of Marken, obtain their
+livelihood by fishing. They leave their homes in small boats or yachts
+every Monday morning, and do not return until late Saturday night,
+allowing them but one day in the week, Sunday, to spend in their homes.
+Close by us is the anchorage, so called from the fact that dozens of
+fishing boats anchor within its harbor. I suppose that fully a hundred
+of these yachts are lying there now, and, shifting from side to side as
+the wind stirs the waters of the Zuyder Zee, present the appearance of a
+city of masts in a hurricane.
+
+As we wander about it occurs to me that I should like to become the
+possessor of one of the odd and picturesque suits of clothing worn here;
+especially one of the better kind of the men's suits, for I know that
+this quaint and ancient dress would be interesting to a number of
+friends far away in dear America. Filled with the idea, I stop many of
+the natives, and through our good and genial friend Mr. L---- inquire if
+it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit of clothing, and
+suggest that if they have none themselves to sell, perhaps one of their
+comrades would part with a suit in exchange for my bright guilders. We
+talk to a great many men, but receive the same answer from all: that is
+that each possesses but two suits; a best or Sunday suit, and a week-day
+or fishing suit, neither of which it is possible to sell for any price
+that I may offer. I ask again if there is not some one else among the
+men who may be willing to oblige me, and learn that most of the men and
+women are in church, but that if we will wait until the service is over,
+we can talk with them, and may succeed in our quest.
+
+
+
+
+Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine.
+
+[Illustration: "The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces." (_See page
+256._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine._
+
+  Church is out--The Promenade--Every man is a Volume--An Old Suit--His
+  Sunday Clothes--"Let him have it"--An Obedient Son--The Silver
+  Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An Artist's
+  Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient City of
+  Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful
+  Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public
+  Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Bruehl.
+
+
+Within a short time we perceive a large number of people slowly
+advancing in our direction. Church is over, and it is customary after
+the service for every one to promenade up and down this street. Here
+friends and relatives greet each other, exchange items of local interest
+and have their little gossips over family affairs. The sight is one long
+to be remembered. The round weather-beaten faces of the men, as they
+roll along in true sailor fashion, the merry chattering women and girls
+in their picturesque costume, the children running hither and thither,
+and the gayly decorated houses that line the long street are worthy the
+brush of an artist.
+
+Truly these people seem to practice the Golden Rule, for no one appears
+to be thinking of himself, but every one cares for the comfort and
+happiness of his family, friends or neighbors. The delicate lace caps of
+the women frame smiling faces, and the maidens in their quaint homespun
+gowns look as though they are a part of a play at one of our theatres.
+As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the foremost group, and
+having attracted their attention by our novel appearance, ask through
+our friend Mr. L----, the oft-repeated question about the suit of
+Volendam clothes, which we are anxious to carry home to show our friends
+in America. In an instant they all shake their heads in the negative,
+looking very serious at the idea of such a proposition. Their manly and
+straightforward manner charms me. I look into the open countenances, in
+which there is much individuality, and say to myself: it is as true here
+as in the great cities of the world that _Every man is a volume if you
+know how to read him._ There is a story in the heart of each one of
+these sturdy fishermen, whether it has seen the light of day or not, and
+many a noble deed and heroic action that in another town would receive a
+medal of honor, or at least the applause of the public, passes here as a
+common incident of everyday life. These people do not live for show:
+the only medals which they wear, and which they transmit to their
+children are the records of pure, honest lives which are proudly handed
+down from one generation to another.
+
+[Illustration: "As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the
+foremost group." (_See page 256._)]
+
+Meanwhile I stand before them watching the varying expressions and
+wondering if there is any prospect of obtaining my desire. At last one
+man says hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home that he no longer
+wears, and if we will accompany him to his house, a few doors away, he
+will show it to us. We turn and follow him, and a score or more of the
+people follow us. What must an old suit look like in this thrifty
+community where the men and women never discard anything until it is
+utterly hopeless as regards service?
+
+A suit which one of these is willing to dispose of must indeed be a
+peculiar object. I wonder if it has that "ancient and fish-like smell,"
+described by Shakespeare. The fates forbid! Perhaps it is a relic of a
+beloved father or grandfather, handed down as a family heirloom. We
+enter the house, still surrounded by curious spectators, and our
+obliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-wrapped bundle, which
+upon being opened discloses a worn and aged suit: unfortunately its age
+does not add to its beauty or value as in the cases of old masterpieces
+in art, as a painting by Murillo or Rembrandt. The clothes are old,
+dirty, and faded, and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman, but
+they do not fail to serve their purpose, for while this young athlete
+holds them out, with an expression of pride and pleasure, a sudden
+thought fills me with hope. The suit which this young man wears is of
+the highest type of the Volendam fashion, and is quite new. The flannel
+blouse with its gay undervest showing at the chest, and the baggy brown
+velveteen trousers form an ideal specimen of the costume of these
+people. I must have this suit. No other will answer my purpose. Without
+preliminaries, I boldly propose to him to sell me the suit he wears, and
+put on the old one until he can procure another. His countenance falls,
+and with a look of positive fear, he draws back, shaking his head and
+repeating: "Nee. Nee. Nee."
+
+Then he moves farther away, as though in terror lest I then and there
+strip him of his garments. He cannot sell the suit, he says, especially
+as the wedding festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon to take
+place. In a corner of the room, quietly smoking a clay pipe, sits the
+old father, watching without a word the little drama taking place
+before him. As the boy reiterates his refusal, the man talks to him in
+expostulatory tones, and as we learn, says: "The gentleman from America
+is a good man. Let him have the suit: you shall have another." At this
+advice the son, though looking rather sulky, yields, and withdrawing to
+the adjoining room, exchanges the suit he wears for the old one, and
+returns with the desire of my heart rolled up and wrapped in a clean
+paper. The evidence of good will on the part of the parent, and the
+obedience of the son charm me even more than the possession of the
+coveted garments. The boy is a noble lad. As we are about leaving, I
+suddenly espy the silver coin buttons which are such an ornament to the
+dress, and which are considered a mark of distinction, when worn by old
+or young. They are rare and valuable decorations, being buttons made of
+coins, and held together by a link, as our sleeve-buttons. They are worn
+in the bands of the trousers and shirts, serving the purpose of
+suspenders.
+
+The coins are brilliantly polished and present a striking appearance.
+They are generally heirlooms, and some of them are of very ancient date.
+
+In general they are cherished as treasures beyond price: these worn by
+the boy are exceedingly rare, and are more than a hundred years old,
+having belonged to his great-grandfather. The outer and larger coins are
+three guilder pieces, the smaller ones one guilder.
+
+To ask for these is indeed the "last straw," and when the father
+requests his son to put them in the bundle with the clothing, he bursts
+into tears, and his hands tremble as he gives them to me.
+
+For this final test of obedience I thank him heartily, and bestow upon
+him a liberal reward for the sacrifice, together with much praise. As he
+looks at the guilders with which I have filled his hand, his countenance
+brightens, and the rainfall is changed into radiant sunshine. The
+neighbors look on this scene with surprise, and many of them declare
+that this is a very uncommon occurrence in Volendam, as they have never
+known any one heretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a foreigner.
+It is unnecessary to say that I also value the coins beyond price, and
+treasure them for their association, and the interesting picture which
+they never fail to bring before me.
+
+[Illustration: "Every man is a volume if you know how to read him."
+(_See page 256._)]
+
+There is but one hotel in the place, and thither we resort. It is a
+small building without pretensions, containing about ten rooms, of no
+great size, but clean and comfortable. We learn that board and
+accommodations may be had here for four guilders (one dollar) a day.
+This hotel has entertained artists from all parts of the world. The
+good-natured landlord will do everything in his power to make his guests
+comfortable. In the general sitting-room or parlor, there is abundant
+evidence that these efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful
+paintings presented to him by some of the most famous artists of our
+day. He is a loyal upholder of art and artists. His daughter, a fresh
+looking maiden, is so much pleased when I say that I too, am an artist
+and photographer, that she insists upon taking me up to the third floor
+to see the fine view from the windows which overlook the Zuyder Zee. She
+also shows me a room which was fitted up for a lady artist from New
+York. Here is an unfinished picture upon the easel, of an old Volendam
+woman, in her fancy cap and bright colored homespun costume.
+
+This secluded spot offers many attractions for both brush and camera in
+interesting studies of figures and landscape, as well as charming water
+scenes. We would gladly spend a longer time amid these delightful
+pictures, but it is impossible, so we take our departure amid a hundred
+good wishes, and as we drive away, the inhabitants who have gathered
+from all parts of the town to see the queer Americans, call after us:
+"Goeden dag," and "Tot weerziens," (Until we meet again). A dozen or
+more children run by the side of the carriage shouting and laughing for
+a considerable distance. And so we bid farewell to a hearty and
+attractive people and their quaint surroundings.
+
+Let us take a somewhat hasty glance at Cologne, the oldest city on the
+Rhine, and one of the largest towns in the Rhenish Province of Prussia.
+We cannot afford to miss this town, were it only on account of the great
+Cathedral whose lofty towers rise heavenward to a height of five hundred
+and twelve feet. How one longs to find himself within these sacred
+walls, to stand and gaze upon the wondrous arches, pillars, and dome,
+the stained glass and statues, the frescoes and carving, the work of an
+endless succession of artists and artisans. Next to St. Peter's at Rome,
+this Cathedral is the largest church in the world. It stands upon the
+old Roman camping ground, and more than six centuries have passed since
+its foundations were laid. The name of its architect is unknown, and
+even the original designs have been forgotten. Its interior is four
+hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred and forty feet broad.
+The portion appropriated to divine service covers an area of seventy
+thousand square feet. It is useless to attempt to describe this vast
+structure whose buttresses, turrets, gargoyles, canopies and tracery are
+innumerable and bewildering. The Gothic arches and countless pillars
+form a grand perspective. There are seven chapels which present a wealth
+of paintings, and relics. In the Chapel of the Three Magi is a
+marvellous casket of crystal, whose cover is set with precious stones,
+which is said to contain the skulls of Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar,
+the three Wise Men from the East who followed the star to the cradle of
+the infant Christ.
+
+[Illustration: "Goeden dag. Tot weerziens." (_See page 266._)]
+
+In the great treasury of the Cathedral are untold treasures. Here are
+silver censers, paintings set in diamonds, shrines of silver, and rare
+and priceless relics of every description, besides gold and silver
+chalices, fonts, and other church vessels, and a collection of
+magnificent vestments.
+
+Many are the vicissitudes through which this wonderful structure has
+passed, since its commencement in 1248. At times it seemed abandoned to
+ruin, then again the work was taken up and vast sums of money
+contributed, and the masterpiece of Gothic architecture was carried on
+toward completion, until once more the money was exhausted. It seems as
+though the old legend of the architect who sold his soul to the devil in
+exchange for the plan of the edifice must have some foundation, for
+tradition relates that Satan was finally outwitted by the architect, and
+in revenge vowed that the Cathedral should never be finished, and the
+architect's name be forgotten. Immense fortunes have been expended upon
+it by monarchs and others of the faithful. The great southern portal
+alone cost half a million dollars: the bells in the south tower, the
+largest of which was cast in 1874, from the metal of French guns, weighs
+twenty-five tons. The combined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are
+required to set it in motion. The next two in point of size, cast in
+1447 and 1448, weigh respectively eleven and six tons. The magnificent
+stained glass windows were contributed by famous and royal donors, such
+as the Emperor Frederick III., Archbishop Von Daun, Archbishop Von
+Hessen, King Lewis I. of Bavaria, Emperor William I., and many others. A
+number of these were executed as far back as 1508.
+
+Few structures can compete with this in beauty, grace and elegance of
+form. How solemn is the atmosphere within these ancient walls! How
+impressive the picture of this apparently boundless interior! In one of
+the great pillars is a flight of one hundred steps, which leads to a
+gallery extending across the transept, and still nearly forty steps
+higher one reaches the gallery which makes the tour of the whole
+Cathedral, and upon this one has a beautiful view of the city of
+Cologne, the Rhine and the surrounding country. Within the church there
+is a corresponding gallery, from which the visitor may observe the
+interior decorations, and from the loftiest gallery of all, there is a
+vast and delightful panorama which includes river and country as far as
+the eye can see. What can be more beautiful than this scene? Where can
+one find a grander, more solemn atmosphere than within these walls where
+the spirits and the hands of men have worked for ages? Where can he
+experience more lofty aspirations toward
+
+  "The glorious Author of the universe
+   Who reins the minds, gives the vast ocean bounds,
+   And circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds"?
+
+The city of Cologne was founded by the Ubii at the time when they were
+compelled by Agrippa to migrate from the right to the left bank of the
+Rhine, (B. C. 38). In A. D. 51, Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus, and
+mother of Nero, founded here a colony of Roman veterans which at first
+was called Colonia Agrippinensis, and afterward Colonia Claudia
+Agrippina. In 308 Constantine the Great began a stone bridge over the
+Rhine to Deutz. From the end of the fifth century Cologne belonged to
+the Franks and was long occupied by the Ripuarian kings. Charlemagne
+raised the bishopric which had been founded here in the fourth century
+to an archbishopric, the first archbishop being the imperial chaplain
+Hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church, and presented to it a
+valuable library which still exists.
+
+"The noble city has passed through many vicissitudes, and it was not
+until after 1815 under Prussian rule that it began to enjoy a degree of
+permanent prosperity. The rapid progress of its steamboat and railway
+systems, and the enterprise of the citizens, many of whom possess great
+wealth, have combined to make Cologne the centre of the Rhenish trade,
+and one of the most considerable commercial cities in Germany."
+
+The town is built with long narrow streets curving in semicircles toward
+the river. Its sidewalks have the peculiarity of frequently dwindling
+away until only a few feet in width. The great Cathedral tower may be
+seen for miles, reaching far above the surrounding buildings. Cologne is
+a city of legends and relics: old and historic buildings dating back
+many centuries are scattered in all directions, and here the visionary,
+the lover of myth and legend, can find abundant food for his
+imagination. The great and valued possessions of the city are the bones
+of the eleven thousand virgins. This is the legend: Fourteen hundred
+years ago, St. Ursula and eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage
+to Rome, and returning were all slain by the Huns. Their bones were
+gathered together and brought to Cologne, where they were buried, and
+later the church of St. Ursula, now nearly nine hundred years old, was
+built over their tomb. Within this church the bones of the virgins are
+enclosed in stone caskets, with apertures through which they may be
+seen. The skulls are covered with needlework and ornamented with pearls
+and precious stones.
+
+Among other relics, is also to be found here the alabaster vase or
+rather one of the vases, in which the Saviour turned the water into wine
+at the marriage in Cana. The vase or jar is evidently a very ancient
+article: it is much cracked, and one handle is broken off. There are
+many points of interest in this old city, for here are museums, gardens,
+galleries and churches, and always the picturesque river with its
+countless views and pleasure trips.
+
+If one is weary of these legendary stories, or even of sightseeing
+itself, let him rest with me in one of the many public gardens,
+listening to the charming music of a good orchestra.
+
+There are skilled musicians in these gardens, and their selections are
+always well rendered. No loud or idle conversation is indulged in during
+these recitals. Should any such breach of good manners occur, the
+transgressors are requested to observe the rule of the garden, and if
+the offence is repeated, they are ejected from the premises. The
+Germans, being such lovers of good music, tolerate no other in their
+gardens. There is no admission fee, but the expenses are supposed to be
+met by the sale of beer, wine, pretzels and Frankfurt sausages.
+
+Before leaving Cologne I must not forget to mention the refreshing
+perfume which has made this city famous all over the world. The
+celebrated Eau de Cologne is said to have been invented by Jean Antoine
+Marie Farina of Domodossola in the year 1709. One could almost bathe in
+the perfume here for the money it would cost to filter our muddy
+Philadelphia water. There is an enormous quantity of it manufactured,
+and almost every store seems to have it for sale.
+
+[Illustration: "Palace of Bruehl." (_See page 277._)]
+
+A short distance from Cologne, or Koeln as the Germans call it, is the
+almost forsaken station of Bruehl. I would advise the tourist to alight
+here, and take a close view of the imperial palace known as the Palace
+of Bruehl, a handsome building erected about the year 1725. As we advance
+toward the beautiful and spacious grounds, it is not difficult to
+imagine the magnificent structure looming up in the distance as the home
+of royalty. The approach to the palace is studded with marble statues,
+and the palace itself is a classic example of the French and German
+rococo style of architecture; from it radiate many lovely walks and
+bowery avenues which are adorned with fine statuary. Here too are velvet
+lawns, noble trees and glowing flower beds, and should one wish to view
+the interior of this elegant palace, he will find that some of the rooms
+are open to visitors.
+
+Our stay within is necessarily brief. Retracing our steps to the
+station, we take the train, and are carried swiftly toward the old town
+of Bonn.
+
+
+
+
+Along the Banks of the Rhine.
+
+[Illustration: "Lovely walks and bowery avenues." (_See page 277._)]
+
+
+
+
+_Along the Banks of the Rhine._
+
+  Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous
+  Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs of
+  Honor--Koenigswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The Castle--The
+  Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated Ruin--The Splendor of
+  the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the Summit--The Students'
+  Chorus--German Life--A German Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and
+  Lofty Mountains--Legends of the Rhine--The Waters of the
+  Rhine--Vineyards.
+
+
+This town like its sister cities is of ancient foundation, having been
+one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine. It is the seat of a
+university which attracts students from all parts of the world. It is a
+prosperous looking place with pleasant villas on the river banks, and
+ancient picturesque houses. There are lovely shaded walks in the public
+gardens, and a fine view from the Alte Zoll, but the chief interest of
+the town for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace of Beethoven.
+In a small unpretentious house the great musician was born in 1770, and
+here were composed many of those wonderful harmonies which have thrilled
+the souls of lovers of music all over the world. The room in which this
+noble genius first saw the light of day is in the top of the house, a
+garret ten feet by twelve in size, and contains no furniture whatever:
+nor is it necessary to remind those who enter it, by aught save the
+wreath of green which lies peacefully upon the floor, that the spirit
+whose earthly tabernacle dwelt here breathed forth the fire of heaven.
+
+  "Creative genius. From thy hand
+     What shapes of order, beauty rise,
+   Where waves thy potent, mystic wand,
+     To people ocean, earth and skies."
+
+In an adjoining room are stored some pieces of furniture which belonged
+to Beethoven, and the piano used by him in the composition of some of
+his most famous sonatas. Some of the ladies of our party are permitted
+to play upon this sacred instrument. Do they hope to be inspired by the
+magic spell of the master's touch still lingering among the keys? The
+dwelling has been purchased by lovers of the celebrated composer, and
+fitted up as a Beethoven Museum. Not far off stands the statue of the
+artist and the monument dedicated to him.
+
+Before leaving Bonn, we visit the famous restaurant which is the nightly
+resort of the students during the college term. The spacious rooms
+composing this cafe communicate with each other by a wide and lofty
+doorway. The furniture consists of bare wooden tables, a long counter,
+and dozens of shabby chairs which look as if they have seen hard
+service. The corpulent and jovial proprietor informs us that these rooms
+are filled to overflowing with both gay and serious students every night
+in the week, and that here, notwithstanding the ofttimes boisterous
+merriment, questions of grave import are often discussed, together with
+all the current topics of interest; and that speeches are made brilliant
+enough for publication in the daily papers. Here the young orator first
+tests his powers, and in all his future career, he will find no more
+critical audience than this composed of his fellow-students. Here too
+are nights given up to fun and jollity, to college songs and wild and
+reckless mirth, when there is not a serious countenance among the crowd.
+
+  "He cannot try to speak with gravity,
+   But one perceives he wags an idle tongue;
+   He cannot try to look demure, but spite
+   Of all he does he shows a laugher's cheek;
+   He cannot e'en essay to walk sedate,
+   But in his very gait one sees a jest
+   That's ready to break out in spite of all
+   His seeming."
+
+Hundreds of voices make the roof ring with tuneful harmony: choruses,
+glees and comic ballads follow each other, interspersed with jokes and
+puffs at pipes and sips of beer, for the German student is a
+
+  "Rare compound of oddity, frolic and fun,
+   To relish a joke and rejoice at a pun."
+
+Pounds of poor tobacco are smoked, and gallons of good beer consumed at
+these gatherings, and the landlord is always on the side of the boys
+when there is any trouble, and rejoices in all their collegiate honors
+and their success in every other line.
+
+Upon the shelves above the tables are long rows of individual beer mugs,
+with the owners' names or crests conspicuously painted in gay colors
+upon them. These mugs vary in capacity from a pint to two quarts, and
+the host assures me gravely that many of the students drain even the
+largest ones nine or ten times in the course of an evening. I ponder, as
+he speaks, upon the wonderful power of expansion of the human stomach
+which performs this feat.
+
+[Illustration: "Not far off stands the statue of the artist." (_See page
+284._)]
+
+As a natural consequence of this enormous appetite for beer, one sees in
+the restaurants in many of the German cities an especial table
+constructed with a deep semicircular curve in the side, which allows
+the corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage in comfortable
+proximity to the bottle. Such as these must have been in Shakespeare's
+mind, when he wrote: "He was a man of an unbounded stomach."
+
+The deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many of the students, are
+matters of great pride with them, as evidences of the number of "affairs
+of honor" in which they have been engaged. They look with scorn upon the
+fellow collegian whose countenance does not display one or more of these
+signs of bloody combat, and are always ready to seize an occasion of
+this kind for the exhibition of their bravery or their skill at arms.
+Sometimes these duels are a result of the silliest arguments, at others
+they are sought by deliberate insult given by the one who wishes to
+fight. A glance is sometimes sufficient for a sanguinary meeting.
+
+Will they ever learn that no stain can ever be washed out with blood, no
+honor redeemed by the sword, no moral bravery displayed by an encounter
+of this kind? It is falling to the level of the brute, with perhaps a
+little more skill evinced in the choice of the weapons of warfare. It
+cannot but detract from the dignity of the human being, and this is true
+to a far greater extent in the case of those who entertain themselves
+by witnessing such unnatural sports as prize fights, cock fights, and
+most degrading of all, but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized
+countries, the bull fight;--all relics of barbarism.
+
+Let us leave this unpleasant subject, however, and allow ourselves to be
+spirited away to a veritable fairy land of beauty, and quaint legendary
+associations. The little town of Koenigswinter nestles at the foot of the
+Seven Mountains, from which there are innumerable views of the Rhine and
+the surrounding country. A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in
+the many excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and
+visionary will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of
+rare grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen,
+cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages of
+legendary lore. The town is a thriving, modern looking place of about
+thirty-five hundred inhabitants, excluding the floating population of
+tourists who throng the hotels and scatter themselves among the private
+families.
+
+We arrive here early in the afternoon, and establish ourselves in a
+comfortable and attractive hotel. The day is clear and pleasant, and
+desiring to make good use of the hours of daylight before us, we
+determine to make the ascent of the Drachenfels. There are a number of
+different routes or paths, by which one may reach the summit of this
+mountain on foot; or, should the tourist prefer to ride, he can use the
+Mountain Railway which approaches the top in a line almost straight.
+Protected by stout shoes, carrying wraps, and armed with long and strong
+wooden staffs, we walk slowly along the mountain road, pausing at
+intervals to gaze upon the beautiful scenes which surround us in every
+direction. The great peak known as the Drachenfels or Dragon rock, in
+which from the river a vast cavern may be seen, owes its name to the
+numerous legends which are connected with it. In the cave, it is said,
+lived a terrible monster who daily demanded of the people the sacrifice
+of a young maiden, who was bound and decorated with flowers, and placed
+near the entrance to his lair. Siegfried slew the dragon and by bathing
+in his blood, became invulnerable. The maiden whose life he thus saved
+was Hildegarde, the beautiful daughter of the Lord of Drachenfels, whom
+he afterward married and bore to the castle whose crumbling and
+picturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag, fifteen hundred feet
+above the Rhine. This castle was once a mighty stronghold of the robber
+chieftains; its foundation is associated with Arnold, Archbishop of
+Cologne at the beginning of the twelfth century, who in 1149 bestowed it
+upon the Cassius Monastery at Bonn. It was held as a fief by the counts
+of the castle.
+
+Henry, Count of Drachenfels, furnished the chapter of the Cathedral of
+Cologne with the stone for its construction from a quarry which from
+this fact still bears the name of Dombruch, or cathedral quarry. In the
+Thirty Years' War the half-ruined castle was occupied by the Swedes, but
+was besieged and taken from them by Duke Ferdinand of Bavaria, Elector
+of Cologne, who completed its destruction.
+
+The cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new castle, the Drachenburg,
+built in 1883 for the Baron von Sarter. It is in the Gothic style, and
+is elaborately decorated with frescoes and stained glass. The upper part
+of the mountain is covered with trees below the cliff, the lower part
+with grapevines, while along the banks of the Rhine at its foot are
+picturesque cottages, nestling among trees and vines. The Drachenfels is
+the loftiest of the Seven Mountains, and its summit commands one of the
+finest prospects on the Rhine. In the ruins of the old castle, ingenious
+and progressive man has seen fit to ignore sentiment, and thrust a
+modern restaurant, where in spite of his shocked sensibilities, the
+weary traveller may in return for German marks, rest and refresh himself
+with sparkling wine which is famous for its fine quality and flavor,
+while the cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited brain.
+
+[Illustration: "The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon
+Rock." (_See page 291._)]
+
+One lingers long, dazzled by the splendor of this superb view. Mountains
+and valley, river and islands unite in a glorious picture which
+entrances the soul, and thrills the heart with gladness; while the pure,
+bracing mountain air, laden with the perfume of the grape, fills the
+lungs with "a perpetual feast of nectar's sweets."
+
+Many tourists surround us, and we hear a perfect babel of tongues:
+French, English, German and other languages greet our ears, assuring us
+that visitors from all parts of the world are enjoying this magnificent
+panorama with us.
+
+What a pity the camera will not encompass the wonderful scene.
+
+  "The castled crag of Drachenfels
+     Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
+   Whose breast of waters broadly swells
+     Between the banks which bear the vine;
+   And hills all riched with blossom'd trees,
+     And fields which promise corn and wine;
+   And scatter'd cities crowning these,
+     Whose fair white walls along them shine,
+   Have strew'd a scene which I should see,
+   With double joy wert thou with me."
+
+Several of the Siebengebirge are visible toward the east, the basaltic
+heights sloping toward the Rhine. Just below are Rhoendorf, Honnef,
+Rheinbreitbach, Unkel, and Erpel; on the left bank of the river are
+Remagen and the Gothic church on the Apollinarisberg, with the heights
+of the Eifel and the ruin of Olbrueck Castle on a height of 1,550 feet.
+In the neighborhood are Oberwinter, the islands of Grafenwerth and
+Nonnenworth and the beautiful ruins of Rolandseck with its surrounding
+villas and gardens. To the right, one may behold Kreuzberg, Bonn and
+even the city of Cologne in the distance.
+
+It seems as though one could gaze upon this scene of grandeur and beauty
+forever. As twilight falls, the picture receives a new and entrancing
+sublimity. "The weary sun hath made a golden set," and silently the
+sparkling stars appear, one by one, while the deepening shadows blend
+the scene into a vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the soul up
+to the very threshold of heaven.
+
+We descend the mountain rather silently, unwilling to break the
+impression made by our journey, and slowly through the gloom make our
+way back to the hotel.
+
+While sitting upon the porch in the evening, surrounded by the majestic
+watch towers of the Rhine, and expatiating on the pleasures of the day,
+we suddenly hear a rich full chorus, harmoniously sung by at least one
+hundred male and female voices. The singers are invisible, and the notes
+seem to float out from one of the neighboring mountain caves. We all
+listen with delight to the sounds, which now approaching nearer,
+convince us that the singers are not the denizens of another world, but
+are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves. In the distance we can
+discern a procession of gay and jovial students with their sweethearts
+at their sides. The young men are carrying lighted torches and lanterns
+which illuminate them and the road, and are merrily singing the popular
+glees and college songs as they wend their way to the boat landing close
+by.
+
+The party is returning from a German students' picnic, and as they board
+the little steamer, which immediately leaves her moorings, the air is
+rent by cheer after cheer, and we hear the gay laughter and happy voices
+long after the boat has disappeared from our eyes down the silent
+flowing river. Such is the German student life, and such is the
+character of the German people: not averse to pleasure, sociable,
+jovial, kind and happy.
+
+We rise early this morning, and partake of a good German breakfast; and
+of what do you suppose a good German breakfast consists? Dishes of
+greasy sausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy, kale or saurkraut,
+onions and hot sauces, potatoes soaked in lard; black bread which has
+also been soaked in lard to save the expense of butter: and all this
+washed down with innumerable mugs of beer or Rhine wine, with a "thank
+heaven" when the unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes or
+olfactories? No, my dear friend; our breakfast is a most agreeable
+contrast to the picture just drawn. We are served with deliciously
+cooked steak and chops, and the connoisseur of any nationality would not
+disdain these meats or the daintily prepared chicken, coffee and fresh
+rolls. The eggs are fresh and not underdone: one can find no fault with
+the butter or the sweet new milk, and it is with a feeling of great
+satisfaction that we rise from the table at the close of the meal, and
+exclaim that we have had a breakfast "fit for a king."
+
+A small steamer with an upper deck waits at the landing to convey
+passengers and a limited amount of freight from Koenigswinter to Bingen.
+It is ten o'clock when we step on this attractive little boat with our
+numerous wraps and parcels. We are well laden, for the camera occupies
+one hand, and is always ready for an unexpected shot at some picturesque
+figure, group, building or landscape. And I will here say to the tourist
+who wishes to illustrate his notes, that it is best to keep camera and
+sketch book handy, for you little know what fine opportunities are
+missed while you are stopping to unstrap your needed friend. Let your
+sketching outfit hang over your shoulder, and as to the camera, have one
+which will respond to your touch within five seconds, or you will lose
+many a scene of beauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of
+friends at home. We are much amused at the bulky apparatus of a friend,
+which is always carried neatly strapped in its box, while mine hangs
+over my shoulder, ready to snap instantly to a demand upon it. The
+difference in the result of the two methods is that I have a collection
+of many valuable pictures, while our friend spends most of his time
+strapping and unstrapping his camera. The day is chilly and threatening,
+and as we leave the landing, we find ourselves in a heavy fog, much to
+my disappointment, for I have anticipated great pleasure in seeing and
+photographing the many beautiful ruins of old castles and the landscape
+along our route. However as the mist lightens now and then, I "shoot"
+away here and there with as much ardor as the circumstances will allow:
+not idly or carelessly, as the enthusiastic amateur, reckless of plates
+and results, but at unquestionably fine points, such as lofty castles
+and picturesque mountains, half fearing sometimes that in spite of my
+precautions the longed-for view will prove but a blur upon my plate. It
+is bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime pictures with such
+faulty exposures.
+
+The country around Koenigswinter is extremely beautiful. Upon both sides
+of the Rhine rise the lofty peaks of the wooded mountains, with in
+almost every case a ruined castle upon the summit. How noble and defiant
+is the appearance of these venerable fortresses with their eventful
+histories and wonderful legends. Here near Remagen within full view of
+the river is the church dedicated to St. Apollinaris, at one time a
+great resort for pilgrims. It is said to be beautifully decorated with
+ancient and modern works of art; the view from the church tower so
+charmed the artist who first ornamented it that he painted his portrait
+upon the tower that his eyes might forever look upon the mountains and
+valleys and follow the winding course of the glistening river. Near
+the church, at the foot of the mountain, is the celebrated Apollinaris
+fountain, whose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the world
+for their medicinal properties.
+
+[Illustration: "How noble and defiant is the appearance of these
+venerable fortresses." (_See page 300._)]
+
+At times the blue breaks through the clouds, and then the pictures are
+surpassingly lovely. The castles in their sorrowful majesty are very
+imposing: they are generally built of stone, are of fine architectural
+design, and are frequently the centre of charming old gardens, or are
+embowered in trees and shrubbery. Here they stand year after year,
+looking down upon the ever youthful river. Some of them are occupied,
+while others are desolate ruins.
+
+  "High towers, fair temples,
+   Strong walls, rich porches, princely palaces,
+   All these (oh pity), now are turned to dust,
+   And overgrown with black oblivion's rust."
+
+One can hardly realize the grandeur of this scenery. Every turn of the
+river presents a different view: it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of
+natural beauty. Now we behold the mountains with their masses of foliage
+reaching to the very summits; now the charming village amid its
+vineyards, with its odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame
+houses with plain roofs and quaint gables. While sitting silently on
+deck gazing upon the old castles and ever changing scenes which border
+this beautiful body of water, I hear solemn tones proceeding from the
+belfry of an old church, and behold a little procession of mourners
+slowly following the hearse which is bearing the remains of some loved
+relative or friend to their final resting-place;--a pathetic little
+group walking sadly along through the drenching rain from the church to
+the burying ground.
+
+One is compelled to notice here the numerous signs with huge letters
+emblazoned upon them, informing the passers-by that here are bottled
+popular waters of medicinal qualities. The tottering establishments are,
+I observe, close to the water's edge, and whether or not the Rhine
+contributes the greater part in the composition of these famous waters
+is an open question. However it may be, the waters, or mineral springs,
+of genuine virtue or otherwise, are the source of a considerable profit
+in this region. Water as a beverage is seldom used by the Germans, for
+the light Rhine wines are to be had in perfection at a trifling cost.
+
+[Illustration: "Every turn of the river presents a different view."
+(_See page 303._)]
+
+We glide along, passing island and vineyard, and castle crowned height,
+with now and then a wide curve in the river, which looks with its
+smiling face to-day much as it did centuries ago when the old
+strongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal splendor, and
+noble retinues defiled down the narrow mountain paths to the water's
+edge.
+
+  "Thou, unchanged from year to year
+   Gayly shalt play and glitter here;
+   Amid young flowers and tender grass,
+   Thine endless infancy shalt pass;
+   And, singing down thy narrow glen,
+   Shall mock the fading race of men."
+
+
+
+
+From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main.
+
+[Illustration: "Now we behold the little church surrounded by
+picturesque houses." (_See page 303._)]
+
+
+
+
+_From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main._
+
+  Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German
+  Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Ruedesheim--Niederwald--The
+  Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine
+  Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A
+  Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the Ford--A
+  Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of Bishops--The
+  City--Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which Rothschild was
+  Born--Luther.
+
+
+After leaving Koenigswinter, we pass vast vineyards on both sides of the
+Rhine, and as we approach Bingen we see them covering the whole
+mountain-side. Among the vines may be seen what seem like steps
+encircling the mountain to its very summit, but which in reality are
+roads or paths through the vineyard. The sturdy and prolific vines grow
+close to these walks. In this section of the country the greatest care
+is given to grape culture, hence in Bingen is to be found the finest
+wine made in the country. In this region are located great breweries and
+wine vaults extending into the mountain-sides for hundreds of feet. On
+arriving at Bingen we proceed at once to the Victoria Hotel, a quiet
+house situated at a convenient distance from both railroad station and
+steamboat landing. The charges are moderate, and the accommodations
+good.
+
+Upon entering our sleeping apartment, I observe upon the beds huge
+fluffy quilts stuffed with soft feathers, and forming a pile at least
+two feet in thickness, which covers the entire surface from bolster to
+footboard. This ominous appearance fills me with strange forebodings and
+wondering thoughts. I say to myself: "God made the country, and man made
+the town, but who on earth has manufactured these monstrous
+counterpanes, and for what purpose?" Surely not for ornament, for they
+are the most unsightly objects I have ever beheld in the line of
+needlework, and look as if intended to smother hydrophobia patients. But
+as few dogs are seen hereabout, this does not seem probable. The
+appearance of a smiling innocent-faced chambermaid interrupts my
+meditations. She informs me that these great masses of feathers are used
+to keep the body warm at night. I conclude from this that the Germans
+are a cold-blooded people, since such a slaughter of the "feathery
+tribe" is necessary to maintain their normal temperature when in a
+state of repose. As night advances, I summon up courage to crawl under
+this fluffy mountain, and in a few moments feel as if a great loaf of
+freshly-baked bread is lying upon me. The heat is intense, and makes me
+think of "Eternal torments, baths of boiling sulphur, vicissitudes of
+fires." I cast it off, and as the nights are chilly, soon find myself
+too cool. But I will not allow the enemy to return and overpower me, for
+there is much to be seen hereabout on the morrow, and I know that
+overgrown spread would absorb all the strength reserved for the
+occasion. Placing my steamer rug upon the bed, I am soon oblivious to
+all surroundings and happy in a land of pleasant dreams.
+
+[Illustration: "Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the
+mountain side." (_See page 313._)]
+
+This house is indeed delightfully located in the midst of a beautiful
+country. Bingen is a lovely town at the entrance of the romantic Nahe
+valley, looking out upon mountain, glen and river on every side, upon
+lofty castles and vine-embowered cottages. Quaint narrow streets and
+ancient buildings, whose history is buried in the distant centuries,
+tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger in this neighborhood. The
+place was known to the Romans, who erected a castle here, which was
+destroyed by the French in 1689, but which has been restored and
+extended. There is a beautiful view from the tower, and footpaths
+ascend to it both from the Nahe and the Rhine.
+
+Here are old historic taverns, whose floors are composed of large slabs
+of stone. The primitive chairs and tables are of rude workmanship, and
+devoid of paint or style, but heavy and strong enough to support the
+weary travellers who resort thither.
+
+We wander about, revelling in nature's enchanting pictures, and
+rejoicing in the mysterious atmosphere of the dense forests, which form
+the background. The smiling river, with its silver sheen beneath the
+moon, or its golden reflections of the setting sun, is ever an
+inspiration and a suggestion for some new trip or point of vantage. Yes,
+here are scenes for the artist, and pictures ready for the camera. Here
+too, on a quartz rock in the middle of the Rhine is the Mouse Tower
+which is said to owe its name to the well-known legend of the cruel
+Archbishop Hatto of Mayence.
+
+In the year 914, a protracted rain ruined the harvest in this region,
+and a terrible famine ensued among the poor people, who in their
+distress finally applied to the archbishop, as his granaries were
+overflowing with the harvests of former years. But the hard-hearted
+prelate would not listen to them. At last they wearied him so with their
+importunities, that he bade them assemble in an empty barn, promising
+to meet them on a certain day and quiet their demands.
+
+Delighted with the prospect of relief, the people gathered on the
+appointed day in such numbers that the barn was soon filled. The
+archbishop ordered his servants to fasten all the doors and windows so
+that none could escape, and then set fire to the building, declaring
+that they were as troublesome as rats, and should perish in the same
+way.
+
+The following day, when the bishop entered his dining-room, he found
+that the rats had gnawed his recently finished portrait from the frame,
+and it lay in a heap of fragments on the floor. While he stood gazing at
+it a messenger burst into the room with the news that a great army of
+fierce looking rats were coming toward the castle. Without a moment's
+delay the archbishop flung himself on a horse and rode rapidly away
+followed by thousands of rats all animated by the revengeful spirits of
+the starving population he had burned. He had scarcely dismounted and
+entered a small boat on the Rhine, when the rats fell upon his horse and
+devoured it. Rowing to his tower in the middle of the Rhine, he locked
+himself in, thinking he had escaped his voracious foes; but the rats
+boldly swam across the Bingerloch, and gnawed thousands of holes in the
+tower, through which they rushed to their victim. Southey in his ballad,
+thus describes their entrance into the tower:
+
+  "And in at the windows, and in at the door,
+   And through the walls, helter-skelter they pour,
+   And down from the ceiling, and up from the floor,
+   From the right and the left, from behind and before,
+   From within and without, from above and below,
+   And all at once to the bishop they go.
+
+  "They have whetted their teeth against the stones,
+   And now they pick the bishop's bones;
+   They knawed the flesh from every limb,
+   For they were sent to do judgment on him."
+
+This is the old legend; but now comes the searcher after truth with the
+information that the tower was in reality erected in the middle ages as
+a watch tower, and the name is derived from the old German "musen," to
+spy. These ruins were again converted into a station for signalling
+steamers, which in descending the Rhine are required to slacken speed
+here when other vessels are coming up the river.
+
+Taking one of the small steamboats which run from Bingen to the opposite
+bank, we land at the little town of Ruedesheim which lies at the base of
+the mountain. This old town is one of the most famous on the river, not
+only for its wines but for the legend of the beautiful Gisela, who was
+commanded by her father to become a nun in fulfillment of his vow made
+in Palestine during the crusade against the Saracens. The maiden had a
+lover, and finding that no entreaties could save her from her fate,
+Gisela leaped from a tower into the river, and the fishermen declare
+that her spirit still lingers about the Bingerloch, and her voice is
+often heard amid the rushing torrent.
+
+The first vineyards here are said to have been planted by Charlemagne,
+who observed that the snow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the
+town than from other regions in the neighborhood. The Ruedesheimer Berg
+is covered with walls and arches, and terrace rises above terrace, to
+prevent the falling of the soil.
+
+We drive to the top of this charming hill whose sunny slopes are clothed
+with vineyards. Upon the summit, as on most of the others in the
+neighborhood, there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out, and here
+one may remain and enjoy the pure air and enchanting views, for a day, a
+week, or for the whole season.
+
+Here, too, is the National Monument, in describing which I will copy
+the words of my guide book:
+
+"The National Monument on the Niederwald, erected in commemoration of
+the unanimous rising of the people and the foundation of the new German
+Empire in 1870-71, stands upon a projecting spur of the hill (980 feet
+above the sea level; 740 feet above the Rhine), opposite Bingen, and is
+conspicuous far and wide. It was begun in 1877 from the designs of
+Professor Schilling of Dresden, and was inaugurated in 1883 in presence
+of Emperor William I. and numerous other German princes. The huge
+architectural basis is seventy-eight feet high, while the noble figure
+of Germania, with the imperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword, an
+emblem of the unity and strength of the empire, is thirty-three feet in
+height. The principal relief on the side of the pedestal facing the
+river, symbolizes the 'Wacht am Rhein.' It contains portraits of King
+William of Prussia and other German princes and generals, together with
+representatives of the troops from the different parts of Germany, with
+the text of the famous song below; to the right and left are allegorical
+figures of Peace and War, while below are Rhenus and Mosella, the latter
+as the future guardian of the western frontier of the empire. The fine
+reliefs on the sides of the pedestal represent the departure and the
+return of the troops."
+
+We visit many of the most noted breweries and wine vaults in the
+neighborhood. Those of Herr J. Hufnagel are the largest in this section
+of the country. They are cut in the base of the mountain, and extend
+inward many hundred feet. Here the choice wines are stored, many of the
+enormous casks containing upwards of twenty thousand quarts. Hundreds of
+barrels and hogsheads are seen; in fact every nook and corner of the
+vault is filled, and so extensive is this subterranean apartment, that
+avenues are made from one part to another, and along these we walk, the
+guide bearing a lamp to light the way.
+
+After visiting these great storerooms, we are invited to the hotel of
+the proprietor, which is close by, and on the porch we are served with
+an enjoyable lunch flavored with choice German wine.
+
+There is a beautiful drive along the river bank, and if one is tired, he
+may stop at one of the inviting restaurants in this neighborhood, and
+while resting and refreshing himself, look out at the tourists and
+others passing along the wide airy street, or as is a common custom, he
+may have his luncheon served upon the porch, from which there is a
+delightful and extended view of the Rhine. With plenty of shade and
+comfortable chairs, and the beautiful river before us, how swiftly the
+time passes! Sometimes, in consequence of our ignorance of the language,
+laughable mistakes are made in the ordering of our meals, which seem to
+increase the jollity of both the waiters and our party. On one of these
+occasions, while eating our luncheon in the open air, a band of eight or
+ten street musicians station themselves upon the porch but a few feet
+from us. They are healthy, hearty-looking men, but contrary to our
+previous experience in this country, they play the most inharmonious
+airs. We endure this for a short time, then as the discordant sounds
+become more and more annoying, we bestow upon the leader a number of
+small coins, and entreat them to begone. They evidently misunderstand
+us, and think, from our liberal contribution, that we appreciate their
+efforts, for they continue their playing with increased vigor
+and--discord. We do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters, so resign
+ourselves to the situation. After repeating their repertoire, which
+seems endless, with profuse smiling bows and thanks they leave us at
+last to the peaceful enjoyment of the day.
+
+The Niederberg is a massive rectangular castle whose three vaulted
+stories, belonging to the twelfth century, were joined to the remains of
+a structure of earlier date. It was originally the seat of the Knights
+of Ruedesheim, who were compelled to become vassals of the Archbishop of
+Mayence for brigandage.
+
+At Ruedesheim begins the Rheingau, which is the very "vineyard" of this
+country. Here every foot of ground is cultivated, and the grape is the
+monarch of the land. All the hillsides are covered with the vines, and
+here in the midst of the verdure appears the picturesque villa of the
+planter or wine merchant. It is a rich and beautiful region.
+
+From Bingen and Ruedesheim we go to Frankfort-on-the-Main. This town
+which has witnessed the coronation of many of the German emperors, is
+noted for its ancient legends, and to one of these it is said it owes
+its name. This is the story: Charlemagne, having penetrated into the
+forests to wage war against the Saxons, was once compelled to retreat
+with his brave Franks. A heavy fog lay over the country which was
+unknown to him. Fearing that his little army would be cut to pieces if
+he lingered, and unable to see more than a few feet ahead of him,
+Charlemagne prayed to the Lord for help and guidance. The next moment
+the heavy fog parted, and the emperor saw a doe leading her young
+through the stream. He instantly called to his men, and they forded the
+river in safety. The fog closed behind them and hid them from the
+pursuing enemy.
+
+In commemoration of his deliverance, Charlemagne called the place
+Frankford (the ford of the Franks), and the city which grew up shortly
+afterward retained the name.
+
+This, one of the important cities of Germany, is said to have been a
+small Roman military station in the first century, A. D.
+
+It is first mentioned as Franconoford and the seat of the royal
+residence in 793; and the following year Charlemagne held a convocation
+of bishops and dignitaries of the empire here. The town attained such a
+degree of prosperity that in 876, at the death of Lewis the German, it
+was looked upon as the capital of the east Franconian Empire. On the
+dissolution of the empire in 1806, Frankfort was made over to the
+Primate of the Rhenish Confederation, and in 1810 it became the capital
+of the grand-duchy of Frankfort.
+
+It was one of the four free cities of the German Confederation, and the
+seat of the Diet from 1815 to 1866, in which year it passed to Prussia.
+To-day we find it a handsome city of two hundred and twenty-nine
+thousand inhabitants, with beautiful streets, stately houses surrounded
+by lovely gardens, and fine stores, parks, monuments and many
+attractions for the tourist. Here are churches, theatres, libraries and
+museums, and an opera house which will accommodate two thousand
+spectators.
+
+In the Rossmarkt stands the monument of Gutenberg, which consists of
+three figures, Gutenberg in the centre with Fust and Schoffer on either
+side, upon a large sandstone pedestal. On the frieze are portrait heads
+of celebrated printers, and in the niches beneath are the arms of the
+four towns where printing was first practiced: Mayence, Frankfort,
+Venice and Strassburg. Around the base are figures representing
+Theology, Poetry, Natural Science and Industry. This monument was
+erected in 1858.
+
+This is the birthplace of Goethe, and here is the house in which the
+poet was born, with its inscription recording that event, (August 28,
+1749). The handsome monument of Goethe, erected in 1844, twelve years
+after his death adorns the Goethe-Platz. The pedestal of the monument
+bears allegorical figures in relief in front, while on the sides are
+figures from the poems of the great writer.
+
+There are twenty-three thousand Jews in Frankfort, and in the quarter to
+which these people are limited, we are shown the house in which the
+Senior Rothschild was born. It is an unassuming brick building of three
+stories, in good repair. As I gaze upon this modest dwelling, I think of
+the man who from such unpromising beginning, became the founder of the
+greatest financial firm the world has known.
+
+There is a stone effigy of Luther not far from the Cathedral, in memory
+of a tradition that the great reformer preached a sermon here on his
+journey to Worms. It is true that these associations are to be found in
+almost every European town; but none the less are we impressed as we
+stand before the monuments of the great ones of the earth--the men who
+have left their indelible marks--"footprints on the sands of time
+"--which the years have no power to efface. These men must have truly
+lived.
+
+                  "He most lives
+  Who thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best."
+
+The Cathedral of Frankford is a conspicuous edifice towering above the
+other buildings, quaint and picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in
+many of its details. From the platform of the tower, one may have a
+beautiful view of the city, with its thick border of trees, and of the
+fields and meadows beyond along the shining waters of the Main. This
+Church of St. Bartholomew was founded by Lewis the German in 852, and
+was rebuilt in the Gothic style 1235-39. The different portions
+represent various periods. The tower, left unfinished in 1512, now three
+hundred and twelve feet high, was completed from the designs of the
+architect which were discovered in the municipal archives.
+
+
+
+
+A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort.
+
+
+
+
+_A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort._
+
+  We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A
+  Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City
+  Streets--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering Place--The Promenade--The
+  Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an Artist--The
+  Race Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame Fortune--The
+  English Channel--A Bureau of Information--Queenstown--An Irish
+  Lass--The Last Stop--The End of the Journey.
+
+
+The journey from Frankfort to Berlin is through a pleasant and
+interesting country. For many miles we look from the car windows upon an
+undulating landscape: hills and valleys follow each other in rapid
+succession as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a minute. Now
+and then we pass men and women in the fields; and now young girls with
+bare feet and short skirts busily raking the hay,--true pictures of
+"Maud Muller on a summer day." And here is a whole group of "nut brown
+maids" laughing merrily at their work, while over in a corner of the
+field is the belle of the countryside listening shyly to the stalwart
+young harvester who stands on the border of the adjoining meadow.
+
+  "Her tresses loose behind
+   Play on her neck and wanton with the wind;
+   The rising blushes which her cheeks o'erspread
+   Are opening roses in the lily's bed."
+
+Now we pass the harvesters at rest, sitting under the green trees and
+hedges with their dinner pails beside them. It is a pleasant, peaceful
+picture. Here is a picturesque village with quaint looking houses, and a
+little gurgling brook in the foreground. An echo from the distant
+mountain answers the shrill whistle of our engine and we can see the
+silvery cloud of smoke that follows us wander off to the right, then
+fade away in misty fragments. In many of these settlements, there are
+shaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed, and here the villagers
+are sipping their beer, in happy social converse.
+
+The young people wave their hands and caps to us as we pass, and with
+their bright costumes animate the lovely scenes which, although so close
+to each other, are of such different character. At last we reach Berlin,
+and our great iron horse stands puffing in the station, defying man to
+detect upon him any sign of exhaustion.
+
+In this large city entertainment can be found for people of every kind
+and taste. The street known throughout the world as Unter-den-Linden is
+a splendid avenue, one hundred and sixty-five feet in width, and takes
+its name from the double row of linden trees with which it is
+ornamented. It is the busiest portion of the city, contains handsome
+hotels, beautiful palaces, large shops, and many fine statues of
+celebrated men.
+
+The first day or two after your arrival in the city, engage a carriage
+and take in the general appearance of the city, its parks and suburbs;
+then visit the art galleries, museums, palaces and churches until the
+brain becomes accustomed to the bewildering array of subjects which
+demand attention. Stroll quietly along Unter-den-Linden stopping now and
+then at one of the many stores which line this beautiful avenue. At one
+end of this thoroughfare is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a sort of
+triumphal arch. It is a fine structure, two hundred feet wide and
+seventy-five feet high, supported by Doric columns. There are five
+entrances, the central one being reserved for the passage of members of
+the royal family.
+
+The Kroll Theatre and Gardens are a popular resort for the people of
+Berlin. These gardens are illuminated every evening by thousands of
+electric lights, arranged in various designs, as flowers, harps and
+other graceful forms, and this illuminated scene is the centre of a gay
+throng of pleasure seekers, who promenade the paths, or sit about in
+groups listening to the music of the fine orchestras stationed at each
+end of the spacious grounds. The entertainment is not over until a very
+late hour.
+
+There are a number of these gardens throughout the city, which are not,
+as may be supposed, frequented by the lower classes of the people, but
+by persons of every rank in society. One can hardly appreciate this
+scene without having passed an evening amid its light-hearted crowds.
+Here may be seen officers of many honors, with conspicuous gold and
+silver badges, mingling with the groups gathered around the tables, or
+sauntering up and down the garden walks, as well as the private soldier
+in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer with his sweetheart by his
+side. Title and rank here as well as elsewhere throughout Germany, are
+honored and respected by all classes, and the salute is gracefully made
+whenever one of the army or navy men meets his superior officer.
+
+[Illustration: "Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this
+promenade." (_See page 343._)]
+
+Berlin with its life and gayety, its grandeur and simplicity, its
+hospitality and good cheer, captivates our hearts, and we enter
+joyously into the many diversions it offers; as we sit among the honest
+and kind-hearted people, we feel the charm of their social atmosphere
+and wonder why other nations do not allow themselves more time for
+relaxation and the simple pleasures which abound here.
+
+The Friedrichs-Strasse is the longest street in the city: it is well
+laid out, and contains many handsome stores. Wilhelms-Strasse is a
+beautiful avenue, and is considered the most aristocratic street in
+Berlin, as it contains the palaces of princes, ministers and other
+distinguished personages. A handsome square opens from this avenue,
+ornamented with flower-beds and fine statuary.
+
+The museums here are called the Old Museum and the New Museum; they are
+connected by a passage gallery. The entrance to the Old Museum is
+adorned by handsome statuary, and the grand portico is beautifully
+painted with allegorical and mythological subjects: within, the walls
+are decorated with frescoes representing barbarous and civilized life,
+and in the great rotunda are ancient statues of gods and goddesses. From
+this one passes to the Gallery of Gods and Heroes, the Grecian cabinet,
+the Hall of the Emperors, and that of Greek, Roman and Assyrian
+sculptures. But it is vain to attempt a description of this vast
+collection of paintings, and other works of art in the short space I
+have to devote to the subject. To appreciate a collection of this kind,
+one should visit it in person.
+
+The Thiergarten is a great park, two miles long, beautifully laid out,
+and containing many splendid old trees, rustic paths, and artificial
+ponds and streams. The grounds are ornamented with statuary, and the
+fine zooelogical collection is in good condition and well arranged. But
+we must leave fascinating Berlin, and pass on to other scenes.
+
+Now we reach Ostend on the coast of Belgium, one of the most fashionable
+watering-places of Europe. During the season it attracts thousands of
+visitors, especially from Belgium and Holland. It was originally a
+fishing station, but was enlarged by Philip the Good, and fortified by
+the Prince of Orange in 1583. In the early part of the seventeenth
+century it sustained one of the most remarkable sieges on record,
+holding out against the Spanish for a period of three years, and finally
+surrendering only at the command of the States General.
+
+[Illustration: "There are many odd and fantastic sights here." (_See
+page 347._)]
+
+To-day promenades take the places of the old fortifications, and
+handsome residences stand where the simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt
+in their cottages. The tide of fashion rolls where a simple people
+lived their daily life of care and toil. Here congregate people of every
+nation, the old and the young; and the cosmopolitan character of the
+promenade is a source of great entertainment to the stranger. As we
+approach the Digue or chief promenade, which is elevated fully a hundred
+feet above the beach, we are struck with the beauty of this grand
+esplanade, a hundred feet wide and extending miles along the shore. On
+the city side are many handsome buildings; residences, hotels, cafes and
+some stores. These buildings occupy a space fully a mile in length, but
+the promenade with its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many miles.
+Chairs and benches are placed at convenient intervals for the use of the
+public, and every day, especially in the afternoon, thousands of
+fashionably dressed people appear upon this walk, rejoicing in the
+opportunity to display elaborate gowns; some by strolling to and fro
+before the benches and chairs, and others by more ostentatiously driving
+by in handsome equipages, with coachmen and footmen in appropriate
+livery.
+
+Yet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening, listening to the
+harmonious melody of the sea, as it mingles its voice with the strains
+of a fine orchestra, and watching the merry throng passing and
+repassing. The silent night afar out on the glistening waters seems like
+a brooding spirit.
+
+  "Thou boundless, shining, glorious sea,
+   With ecstasy I gaze on thee;
+   And as I gaze, thy billowy roll
+   Wakes the deep feelings of my soul."
+
+We extend our walk and take in the Kursaal, a handsome structure of
+marble and iron built upon the side of the promenade. It covers a large
+area, and within its walls, the sounds of choice music are constantly
+heard. Dances, concerts and many other forms of entertainment keep this
+fashionable resort in a whirl both day and night. On many of these
+occasions the dressing is the most important feature of the affair. The
+people who resort thither are families of considerable wealth, and can,
+when they choose, run to extremes in paying court to Dame Fashion.
+
+[Illustration: "One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting
+subjects." (_See page 347._)]
+
+Let us descend about noon, by the long low steps, from the promenade to
+the beach below, and here we will find a long unbroken line of wagons
+facing the sea. These wagons have large numbers painted conspicuously on
+their backs: upon one side is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn,
+and a pair of strong shafts is attached to each vehicle. The stranger
+will wonder what on earth these unsightly things are designed for, and
+why they thus mar the beauty of the beach. Have patience; inexperienced
+stranger, and you will see these inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks
+and now one, now another be hauled rapidly forward, some to the water's
+edge, others into the ocean up to the hubs. In explanation of this I
+would state that when the bathing hour arrives, a horse is attached to
+each wagon, and the occupant or occupants, when it reaches the water's
+edge, open the door and spring forth a nymph and her companions, in
+their scant bathing robes, ready for the plunge. The costumes of both
+men and women are not such as find favor with fastidious mortals, and
+many of the scenes witnessed on this beach would not be tolerated at any
+of our American watering-places.
+
+It is quite common for men, women and children to remove their shoes and
+stockings and wade ankle deep in the surf.
+
+However, there are many odd and fantastic sights here, and many pretty
+tableaux on the beach which would delight the eyes of an artist, and I
+often think that one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting
+subjects.
+
+As the races are to be held this afternoon at the Course, a mile beyond
+the Kursaal, and just off the promenade, we wend our way thither. The
+race-course is similar to those in England and France. As the appointed
+hour approaches, a throng of fashionable people seat themselves upon the
+grand stand, until every place is filled, and even the aisles are
+crowded with the elite of Ostend.
+
+I forgot to mention the fact that the day is Sunday, but this seems to
+make little difference to these gayety-loving people.
+
+The horses start, and now betting and excitement go hand in hand.
+
+  "Some play for gain: to pass time, others play
+       For nothing; both do play the fool."
+
+I have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion, of predicting the
+winning horse a number of consecutive times in my conversation with one
+of our party who sits beside me. These lucky guesses attract the
+attention of a stranger who is on my other side, and considering them as
+so many evidences of remarkable judgment or knowledge, he resolves to
+profit thereby. Accordingly before the next running, as the horses walk
+slowly before the spectators and the judges' stand, the man quietly asks
+me to name the winner in the next race. I quickly make a choice and
+mention the horse's name. The stranger bids me good-day and hastens away
+to place his "pile" with some bookmaker on the identical horse which I
+have named.
+
+[Illustration: "Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel."
+(_See page 353._)]
+
+With a rush of spirit and courage the noble animals fly over the course,
+and every jockey seated in a saddle looks determined to win. Faster and
+faster they urge the flying steeds with spur and voice, and the animals
+themselves, with distended nostrils and steaming breath dash past the
+judges' stand in frenzied effort. The merry jingle of the bell proclaims
+that the goal is reached: the great sign-board with the winner's name
+upon it is visible to all. What has become of my luck? And what has
+become of the stranger who relied on my judgment a few moments ago? My
+horse has lost. Goodness! I feel as though I have committed a crime, and
+I am very sure that Dame Fortune receives from me in private a score of
+epithets, not the most complimentary in the world for her unprincipled
+desertion. I feel sure that if I had my instantaneous camera, or pencil
+handy, this disappointed man's face would make a foreground in the
+picture that would surely be a "_winner_."
+
+We leave Ostend on the steamer La Flandre. The schedule time is 10:40 A.
+M. We go on board amid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on
+shore. As it is a clear bright day with a delightful salt breeze, there
+is much pleasure in sitting on deck and enjoying the view. The English
+Channel is generally a turbulent body of water, noted for its many
+victories over the unfortunates who trust themselves in its power, but
+to-day it is mild and calm, probably plotting mischief to the next boat
+load of passengers that shall come its way.
+
+Indescribable confusion reigns in our hotel, at Liverpool, for more than
+a hundred of its guests are on the point of sailing for America.
+Innumerable packages, grips, umbrellas and walking sticks line the
+corridors. Every one is moving to and fro in hot haste. One lady asks me
+if I know at what hour the steamer on which she has taken passage will
+sail: another wants information in regard to her steamer: a man with
+perspiration trickling down his face begs me to tell him how to send his
+five trunks and other baggage to the landing stage. These and many more
+annoying and importunate people make life a burden to me. I do not know
+why they choose me to share in their misery. Do I look like a walking
+bureau of information, I wonder! If I do, I shall learn how to change my
+expression. But in truth the faces of these bewildered people are a
+study, and I am genuinely sorry for them.
+
+The steamer cuts loose from her moorings, and moves gracefully out into
+the great ocean. As we approach Queenstown, we observe the small farms
+and dwellings close to the edge of the water. Then the lighthouse and
+the forts which guard the entrance to the harbor come into view, and now
+we drop anchor and wait for passengers and the mails. A little steam tug
+becomes visible, and as she draws nearer, we learn that she is bearing
+the mails and passengers to our ship. At last she is close beside us,
+and when made fast, the transfer takes place. Now is the time for the
+camera or sketch book, for many typical Irish characters come aboard our
+vessel, with strange, half-frightened faces, and their worldly
+belongings carried on their backs, or clutched tightly in their hands.
+Among the group I notice a middle-aged woman with a young pig nestling
+peacefully under her arm. Whether it is a pet, or simply a piece of live
+stock to begin housekeeping with in the new country, I cannot say, but
+with a contented expression on both faces, Bridget and her pig disappear
+into the special quarters which are reserved for the emigrants. This
+whole scene is very interesting. The old-fashioned black glazed
+oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspicuous part in the picture, and here
+and there are seen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs and
+carried on the end of a stick, which is slung over the shoulder, while
+the corduroy knee breeches, woollen stockings, heavy shoes and
+pea-jackets with caps to match give us a fine representation of the
+Irishman on his native heath.
+
+Several small boats are floating at our side: from one of these a rope
+is thrown to a sailor on our deck, and a bright and comely Irish girl
+climbs nimbly up, hand over hand, and stands among the cabin passengers.
+With quick, deft movements she pulls up a basket filled with Irish
+knickknacks, such as pipes, crosses, pigs, spoons and forks made of
+bog-wood; these, with knit shawls and similar articles, she displays on
+deck, and it would be difficult to find a prettier, wittier, more
+attractive specimen of old Ireland's lasses than this. By means of her
+ready tongue she disposes of all her wares, and when the whistle warns
+all hands to leave the deck, she glides gracefully down the rope, and
+settling herself in her little boat, pulls for the shore.
+
+[Illustration: "Several small boats are floating at our side." (_See
+page 354._)]
+
+This is our last stop until we reach New York. The anchor is pulled up,
+and away we go steaming on our homeward voyage. The little steam tug
+runs along beside us for a time, then the whistles of both vessels
+blow a farewell to each other, and our little comrade gradually fades
+from our sight.
+
+Suddenly a heavy fog comes up, and the incessant blowing of the fog-horn
+is a tiresome sound: but the wind follows up the mist and scatters it
+far and wide, and now we have the boundless prospect of the ocean before
+us.
+
+  "Strongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows,
+   Nothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the ocean."
+
+As we gaze upon it day after day, its beauty and grandeur grow upon us
+more and more. I can think of no better words than those of Childe
+Harold which so beautifully express the thoughts the scene inspires.
+
+  "Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll.
+     Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain;
+   Man marks the earth with ruin--his control
+     Stops with the shore; upon the watery plain
+     The wrecks are all thy deeds, nor doth remain
+   A shadow of man's ravage, save his own,
+     When, for a moment, like a drop of rain,
+   He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,
+   Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined and unknown."
+
+Then, as if by magic, the huge waves lessen in their angry murmurs, the
+surface becomes quiet and calm; evening creeps on, and the glow from a
+descending sun illuminates the scene. As I look upon this beautiful and
+restful picture, I think how true the words:
+
+  "Beyond is all abyss,
+   Eternity, whose end no eye can reach."
+
+
+
+
+_The reading of this book has no doubt been a pleasure and a profit to
+you. Then why not recommend it to your friends? You will find cards on
+the inside of the back cover to assist you._
+
+[Illustration: "Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can
+reach." (_See page 358._)]
+
+
+
+
+  BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS
+
+  British Isles through an Opera Glass
+  By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.
+
+  Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan." With 48 full-page
+  illustrations, principally from photographs. Crown 8vo, about 350
+  pages, deckle edge paper, cloth jacket, in box, $2.00.
+
+
+What is said of "The British Isles"
+
+Mr. Taylor has the knack of making the story of his journeyings
+entertaining to the public. The usual descriptions of time-worn scenes
+give place to charming personal narrative, and a wealth of incident and
+episode gives to the book an exceptional interest. The fine half-tones
+of English scenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance
+its charm.--_The Philadelphia Call._
+
+It is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of
+travel, not only in England, but in Scotland and Ireland. The author
+takes little from the guide books and their familiar histories, but
+notes many interesting details that attracted his own attention.
+Furthermore he has illustrated his book with a large number of
+photographs, both of places and people, that are quite out of the common
+run, and the pictures alone would suffice to give the volume
+distinction.--_The Philadelphia Times._
+
+The book is all the eye could wish, and as we turn the pages quickly
+from one to another of the forty-eight beautiful photographic
+illustrations a veritable panorama passes before us. The author is
+enthusiastic over what he saw in the British Isles, and he is evidently
+desirous of sharing his pleasure with those who have not been privileged
+to see for themselves.--_The Philadelphia American._
+
+It is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who
+knows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love
+travel would like to be.--_The Bookseller._
+
+Mr. Taylor traveled through the British Isles with an observing eye, a
+ready note-book, and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence.
+The narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote, while the
+personal point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy. The
+volume is beautifully made, and the photographs, about fifty in number,
+are particularly well reproduced in half-tones--_The Philadelphia
+Press._
+
+For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price
+by the publishers
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103-105 South Fifteenth Street         Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+  BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS
+
+  Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan
+  By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr.
+
+  With over 100 half-tone illustrations, principally from photographs.
+  Crown 8vo. 361 pages, gilt top, uncut edges. With unique cover design.
+  Price, $2.00.
+
+
+What is said of "Vacation Days"
+
+Mr. Taylor is a keen observer, who penetrated beyond the beaten track of
+the usual tourist, and his sketches of Home Life, Natural Beauties and
+Every-day scenes, have individuality and charm.--_Literary News._
+
+The narrative is written in a clear, easy style, with an aptitude for
+giving just that kind of information concerning everyday life which
+people miss too often in books of travel.--_Philadelphia Press._
+
+A very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from
+photographs taken by the author of "Japanese people," men, women and
+children, engaged at their ordinary vocations, also pictures of Japanese
+scenery, shops, living rooms and temples. These illustrations are
+remarkable for their realism.--_Indianapolis Journal._
+
+The book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through Hawaii and
+Japan. The special value of the narrative is that it covers points of
+interest in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded
+in the guide books and ordinary books of travel.---_The Philadelphia
+Call._
+
+A four months' trip through Hawaii and Japan is narrated in this compact
+and entertaining volume. Mr. Taylor applies systematic methods to his
+sight-seeing. He is an appreciative observer as well. He was not content
+with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear, picturesque and
+fresh.--_The Philadelphia Ledger._
+
+Two conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average in
+its class; it describes new grounds and scenes, and the narrative
+ripples along with the ease and liveliness of a brook. Without
+professing to be specially instructive, Mr. Taylor conveys a great
+amount of information such as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant
+way, blending the matter of fact with the entertaining.--_The
+Philadelphia American._
+
+For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price
+by the publishers
+
+  GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO.
+
+  103-105 South Fifteenth Street         Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and
+Camera, by Charles M. Taylor, Jr.
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH ***
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