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diff --git a/36110.txt b/36110.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..05491cb --- /dev/null +++ b/36110.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5288 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera, by +Charles M. Taylor, Jr. + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and Camera + +Author: Charles M. Taylor, Jr. + +Release Date: May 15, 2011 [EBook #36110] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ODD BITS OF TRAVEL WITH *** + + + + +Produced by Marius Masi, Juliet Sutherland and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +The following typographical errors have been corrected: + + Page 58: "From street to street we pass, viewing the wretched + tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling together over a faint + spark of fire ..." 'tenements' amended from 'temements'. + + Page 167: "I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force + of arms, some of these rare types of strength and beauty, and + observing two pretty young girls standing in the doorway of one of + the houses, both perfect specimens of physical health, I think this + an opportunity not to be neglected." 'two' amended from 'too'. + + Page 290: "A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in the many + excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and visionary + will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of rare + grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen, + cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages + of legendary lore." 'weird' amended from 'wierd'. + + Page 296: "Just below are Rhoendorf, Honnef, Rheinbreitbach, Unkel, + and Erpel ..." 'Rhoendorf' amended from 'Rhondoerf'. + + + + +[Illustration: THE CANAL AT MONNIKENDAM] + + + + Odd Bits of Travel + + with + + Brush and Camera + + + by + + CHARLES M. TAYLOR, JR. + + Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan" and "The British Isles + Through an Opera Glass," Etc., Etc. + + + Profusely Illustrated by the Author + + + Philadelphia + + GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO. + + 103 and 105 South Fifteenth Street + + + + + Copyright, 1900, by + GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO + + + TO MY WIFE + + + + +Preface. + + +In almost every walk of life, even among artists and photographers, we +find those who are enthusiasts, and who work with such ardor and +perseverance as to overcome all difficulties; while there are others who +seem to desire the hard and rough places smoothed down, and the +obstacles removed from their pathways. In writing this volume, it has +been my purpose to enlist the attention of both of these classes, and to +bring before the ardent worker as well as the ease-loving, but no less +interested, follower of art, places and scenes that afford unusual +attractions for the brush and camera. + +It might truthfully be said that in one's city may be found innumerable +subjects of interest to both the amateur and professional artist; but +change of food, scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both mind and +body, and it is ofttimes wise to pass to new scenes and broader fields +of observation. + +The places described herein are not linked together by proximity of +location and follow no regular line of travel; but are selected from +various lands and from among widely differing peoples, for the sole +purpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable and photographic +subjects. I have endeavored to select nooks and corners where the artist +and photographer will have suitable accommodations, and where the +country with its fresh, pure air, and wholesome food may build up the +health, while at the same time an opportunity is afforded for filling +the portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and characteristic figure +studies. It has also been my aim to tell of countries and places +comparatively easy of access, and where those of limited means may find +satisfactory accommodations. + +At times I digress in my pictorial descriptions and offer some Bits of +personal experience that have befallen me upon my journeys, which I +trust may prove of interest and perhaps be of service to others +travelling through the same places. It is with these purposes in view +that the following pages have been written, and my hope is that they may +serve to guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the attractive +spots and fascinating views which I have attempted to describe in these +ODD BITS OF TRAVEL. + + _Philadelphia, 1900._ C. M. T., JR. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + SCENES OF THE PRESENT AND RELICS OF THE PAST + + Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking + Photographs--The Landing-Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the + Country--Liverpool by Night--Salvationists--Old + Taverns--Chester--An English Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The + River Dee--Leamington--The River Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old + Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh--"The King's + Arms"--Nature's Pictures 15 + + LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF LONDON LIFE + + The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and + Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An + English Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great + Cities by Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old + Robin Hood Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side + Shows--The Close of the Day 57 + + SCENES IN THE GAY CAPITAL + + Dover to Calais--Paris---The Gay Capital by + Night--Boulevards--Life in the Streets--Champs Elysees--Place de + la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place Vendome--Louvre--Opera + House--Palais Royal--Church of the Invalides--Versailles--Notre + Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The Pantheon--The Banks of + the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La Morgue--Pere Lachaise 83 + + ANTWERP AND THE CITY OF WINDMILLS + + From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty + Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs in Harness--The River--Old + Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative Listener--Steen + Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living + Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A + City of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel + by Boat--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful + Draught Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the + Market-Place--The Belle of the Market--Photographs--Wooden + Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword + of Columbus 101 + + A CITY OF MANY ISLANDS + + Amsterdam--The People of Holland--Amstel River--Merry + Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the + City--Source of Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety + Islands--Beams and Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street + Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient + Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The + Great Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The + Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music + in Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an + Artist--Hospitality--A Banquet 127 + + EXCURSIONS TO BROEK AND THE ISLAND OF MARKEN + + A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The + Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein + Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch + Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull + Should Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal + Boat--Honesty and Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious + People--Farming and Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for + an Artist--Dead Cities of Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the + Age--City Lamps--Houses and People--The Island of Marken--An + Isolated Wonderland--First Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family + Doctor--Absence of the Men--The Fishing--Healthy and Industrious + Population--The Women of Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be + Taken--A Valuable Experience--Photographs 149 + + THE ANCIENT TOWN OF MONNIKENDAM + + Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient + Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The + Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone + Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient + Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult + Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the + Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the + Shops--Pantomime--A Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No + Candles--We Attract a Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken + Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A Stranger to the Rescue 177 + + OLD CUSTOMS AND QUAINT PICTURES + + Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Gooden Morgen"--The Zuyder + Zee--By Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women + and Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and + Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the + People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug + Stores--Horretje--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave + their Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught + Girl 205 + + A DUTCH CHEESE-MAKING DISTRICT + + A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An + Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow + Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The + Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip + to Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled + Dogs--The Only Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay + Decorations--A United People--As a Hen and Her Brood--Their + Wealth is Their Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart Men and Sturdy + Women--A Higher Type--"I Have Enough"--Fishermen--The + Anchorage--A Volendam Suit 233 + + VOLENDAM SIGHTS, AND THE OLDEST TOWN ON THE RHINE + + Church is Out--The Promenade--"Every Man is a Volume"--An Old + Suit--His Sunday Clothes--"Let Him Have It"--An Obedient Son--The + Silver Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An + Artist's Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient + City of Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful + Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public + Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Bruehl 255 + + ALONG THE BANKS OF THE RHINE + + Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous + Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs + of Honor--Koenigswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The + Castle--The Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated + Ruin--The Splendor of the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the + Summit--The Students' Chorus--German Life--A German + Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and Lofty Mountains--Legends + of the Rhine--The Waters of the Rhine--Vineyards 283 + + FROM BINGEN ON THE RHINE TO FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN + + Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German + Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Ruedesheim--Niederwald--The + Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine + Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A + Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the + Ford--A Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of + Bishops--The City Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which + Rothschild was Born--Luther 313 + + A PRUSSIAN CAPITAL AND A FASHIONABLE RESORT + + We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A + Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City + Streets--The Brandenburg Gate--Potsdam--The Old Palace--Sans + Souci--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering-Place--The Promenade--The + Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an + Artist--The Race-Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame + Fortune--The English Channel--A Bureau of + Information--Queenstown--An Irish Lass--The Last Stop--The End of + the Journey 333 + + + + +List of Illustrations. + + + PAGE + Canal at Monnikendam (_Frontispiece_) + + We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune 17 + + She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail 22 + + The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro 26 + + Amongst these are two typical products of the British Isles, 30 + + This is a fine field for the student of human nature 35 + + Wayside Inn, New Brighton 39 + + Typical English houses with their massive thatched roofs 43 + + Suburban residence 48 + + White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks 65 + + A short run of an hour 74 + + The chalky cliffs of Dover 79 + + The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the Netherlands 106 + + The place is intersected everywhere by canals 112 + + In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water 117 + + The belle of the market 123 + + The Amstel River 132 + + Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian 141 + + The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle 152 + + Most of the houses have a canal at the back 156 + + The blue stream finds its outlet in the river 161 + + All persuasions accomplish naught 165 + + One old woman is fascinated with the camera 170 + + We walk along the narrow streets 176 + + Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a homelike + scene 182 + + Hotel de Posthoorn 187 + + De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam 193 + + There is a young man whose walk is all his own 200 + + The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean 204 + + The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses 208 + + A street auction 213 + + At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill 217 + + A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town 221 + + Land and water 228 + + A good road for the bicycle 232 + + This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town 241 + + The houses are roofed with red tiles 245 + + The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces 254 + + As the congregation draws nearer we halt before the foremost + group 258 + + Every man is a volume if you know how to read him 263 + + Goeden dag. Tot weerziens 267 + + Palace of Bruehl 276 + + Lovely walks, and bowery avenues 282 + + Not far off stands the statue of the artist 287 + + The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon Rock 293 + + How noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable + fortresses 302 + + Every turn of the river presents a different view 306 + + Now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses 311 + + Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side 315 + + Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this + promenade 338 + + There are many odd and fantastic sights here 342 + + One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects 346 + + Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel 350 + + Several small boats are floating at our side 355 + + Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can reach 359 + + + + +Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past. + + + + +_Scenes of the Present and Relics of the Past._ + + Passing Vessels--The Ocean--Sudden Changes--Taking Photographs--The + Landing Stage at Liverpool--New Brighton--In the Country--Liverpool by + Night--Salvationists--Old Taverns--Chester--An English + Home--Relics--The Cathedral--The River Dee--Leamington--The River + Leam--Warwick Castle--An Old Mill--Through Kenilworth, Coventry and + Stoneleigh--"The King's Arms"--Nature's Pictures. + + +We sight a steamer on our leeward side. A passing vessel is a great +excitement on an ocean voyage. From the time when she first appears, a +tiny speck on the distant horizon, every one is on deck watching her as +she slowly climbs into full view, then draws nearer and nearer to our +floating palace. How companionable she seems in the vast waste around +us. We wonder to which line she belongs; what is her name; her speed, +and whither she is bound: and now that she is within hailing distance, +we await eagerly the result of the usual interchange of questions and +answers by means of small flags and a certain code of signals, well +understood throughout the nautical world. The following are some of the +questions asked: "To what line do you belong?" "What is your port?" +"Have you seen any icebergs?" "Met any wrecks?" "Are you a tramp?" and +so on, until both sides are satisfied, then away she speeds on her +course, while the passengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one +another through their glasses until they are lost in the distance. The +excitement is over, and we all return to our former occupations, or +stand looking idly out to sea until once more there is a cry: "A sail! A +sail!" and we begin to hope that she too is coming our way. Straining +our eyes through the powerful field-glasses, we perceive that she is +coming toward us, and will probably cross our line. Larger and larger +she appears as she steadily advances, until she attracts the attention +of every one on deck. She is now quite close to us, and proves to be a +Barkentine under full sail. We shout a greeting to the crew, and wave +our handkerchiefs as she passes, and the sailors smile in return and +take off their caps. + +[Illustration: "We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune." (_See page +16._)] + +The ocean air is delightful and invigorating, the sky a perfect azure, +and the translucent waves with their foamy edges stretch away in long +beautiful curves. We feel the heart throbs of old Neptune, as the waters +plash softly over the steamer's sides, and we speed steadily forward, +with the rush and swish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild +sweet melody all its own. To fall asleep on deck amid these charming +conditions is delightful indeed. But how quickly the scene changes. +Suddenly a shrill whistle from the Quartermaster summons all hands to +the deck. Orders are rapidly given in quick sharp tones: "Aloft. Take +sail in." "Aye, aye, sir," is the swift response, in a twinkling the +sure-footed sailors are up among the yards, perched in seemingly +impossible places, reefing the flapping sails in preparation for the +coming storm. Dark clouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below, and +heaving billows surround us, uniting with a furious wind that seems bent +on the destruction of our noble ship. The sailors in the rigging are +swaying to and fro, and the panic-stricken passengers in the cabins are +telling each other with pale faces that belie their words that they are +not afraid, for there is no danger; yet they listen anxiously for every +sound from above, and will not allow their dear ones to move beyond +reach of their hands. There is no music now in the rushing of the waves +or the flapping of the sails. Old Neptune in his angry moods is not a +desirable companion. But nothing lasts forever, and from storm and night +and black despair the flower of hope arises, for there comes a lull, +followed by a furious blinding onslaught, and then the spirit of the +hurricane calls his followers and flies up, away, somewhere beyond our +ken: the captain's face relaxes from its tense expression, and he looks +proudly around his good ship which has come out victor in the struggle +with the elements. One by one, the passengers appear on deck, the purple +clouds, after a final frown of disapproval at things in general, break +into smiles, life on shipboard resumes its everyday attitude, and all +goes "merry as a marriage bell." Life is full of contrasts. This is a +picture for which neither brush nor camera is ready. He who would paint +it must draw it from its recess in his memory, or from some sheltered +nook on shore, and be cool and calm enough to follow his favorite +occupation in spite of the consciousness that life and death are +struggling for mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make him +famous if he can but truly portray it upon his canvas. + +[Illustration: "She proves to be a Barkentine under full sail." (_See +page 16._)] + +But there are many tableaux and picturesque situations here, very +tempting to the traveller who carries with him his sketch book or +camera, and I entertain my companions as well as myself by photographing +many a little group both comical and interesting in the world around us. +I invite our friends to the lower deck, where I wish to take pictures +of some of the steerage passengers. Amongst these are two typical +products of the British Isles--one a robust Irishman of shillalah fame, +and the other a bonny boy from Scotland. I make known to them my desire +to have their photographs, whereupon the quick witted Irishman, without +doubt knowing the quality of his face, which is one of the ugliest I +have ever seen, begins at once to bargain with me for the privilege of +transferring it to my camera. It is true I could have stolen a march on +him by a snap shot, and he been all unconscious of the act, but wishing +to keep up the comedy I asked at what price he values his face. He +replies that if I will take up a collection from the passengers around +us, he will accept that as full pay. My friends of the cabin enter into +the spirit of the play, and quite a goodly sum finds its way into the +horny hand of the Hibernian athlete, who now, with a broad smile of +satisfaction, intimates that he is ready to be "taken." + +These pictures too join the gallery of our yesterdays. Swift has truly +said: "It is the talent of human nature to run from one extreme to +another." The long voyage is over, and all hearts rejoice in the sight +of land, and now we are upon the landing stage at Liverpool, amidst the +throng of excited passengers, all moving hither and thither in search of +baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the confusion of trunks, porters, +policemen, drays and ubiquitous small boys. This is a fine field for the +student of human nature. Here are groups of inexperienced travellers +looking anxiously about them, wondering how it is possible to extricate +their belongings from the indistinguishable mass before them, and +laboring under the dread that when found, a fierce and merciless +custom-house official will seize upon trunks and boxes, and deaf to all +protestations, dump the contents, from a shoe to a hat, upon the floor, +to the everlasting confusion of the owners and the amusement of the +spectators. The cool indifference of those who have crossed the ocean +many times is in marked contrast to these panic-stricken, and really +pitiable creatures. + +[Illustration: "The sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro." (See +page 19.)] + +Then there is the "happy-go-lucky" youth, who finds all this tumult a +great joke, and who wanders carelessly about, with the serene confidence +that "things" will turn out all right; which they generally do. Here is +the fashionable mother with her pretty daughters who evince a charming +delight in everything that happens; the fussy mama who is sure that +her baggage has not come ashore, or that the officers of the +custom-house are in league against her; children separated from parents +or nurses, shrieking wildly in their terror, while others, more +venturesome and curious, are in every one's way. Porters elbow their way +through the crowd, cabmen shout in stentorian tones, policemen watch the +masses, and now and then in sharp curt tones call a delinquent to order. +A placid looking old gentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor +stands in the midst of a picturesque party of young people, evidently +his grandchildren. They all look so happy that it seems contagious, for +the troubled countenances of their neighbors break into sympathetic +smiles as they glance at this joyous family group. Every shade of human +expression may be observed in this motley throng, and he who has eyes to +see will find many a charming tableau, many a pathetic scene or +diverting situation that would enrich a sketch book, or prove a valuable +addition to the collection made by the ready camera. The various changes +of expression are worth studying, for where "luxuriant joy and pleasure +in excess" appear at one moment, the next may behold an angry frown, and +a struggle as if for life amid the surging tide of humanity. + + "Now one's the better--then the other best + Both tugging to be victor, breast to breast + Yet neither conqueror, or is conquered." + +Taking a small steamer which plies between Liverpool and New Brighton, +one may for a few cents, after a half hour's ride, land at an attractive +and much frequented watering-place upon the bank of the Mersey River, +opposite Liverpool. This resort is the pleasure-ground of the middle +classes, and is well worth a visit. Upon a holiday many thousands flock +to its shores which remind one of Vanity Fair, where numerous phases and +conditions of life are represented. Here is the indefatigable and +annoying travelling photographer with his "Four for a shilling. Take you +in two minutes. Ladies and gentlemen, step in and see the finest +pictures to be found in this country. Bridal groups a specialty." + +[Illustration: "Amongst these are two typical products of the British +Isles." (_See page 23._)] + +Here are games of all kinds, pony and donkey riding, and all the shows +to be found at the popular seashore resort. The "merry-go-round" is in +full swing, with a crowd of spectators, among them many wistful +children, watching the prancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses. The +music here is quite inspiring, and the numerous small boys and maidens +who lack the necessary pennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze +at their more fortunate companions with woe-begone countenances. Strains +less animated, but more melodious attract us to a fine dancing hall, +where the older lads and lasses are tripping about in a lively manner. +The light dresses, colored ribbons and happy faces make a pretty +picture. Along the beach are beautiful views, worthy of a master hand, +while out in the country the typical English houses with their massive +thatched roofs and lovely surroundings of trees, lawns and gardens fair, +cannot fail to captivate the artist's eyes. + +A stroll through the streets and byways of Liverpool at night is a sad +but interesting experience. Alas for the misery and crime and want that +exist in all the great cities! Girls, young and pretty, but no longer +innocent, may be seen in scores in every locality: children with poverty +and depravity written on their faces boldly address one at the street +corners: men and women, with sharp, pinched features and misery and +despair in their voices, beseech one for alms, or with fierce cunning +lie in wait for the unwary. Sick at heart and with inexpressible pity we +wend our way from one point to another. Vice, crime, want, suffering +meet our eyes on every side: and the old hopeless cry: Why must these +things be? rises up again in our souls. Through the whole night long +upon the curb stones, at the corners, lounging against the windows and +doors of closed houses or shops, this lower stratum of life appears with +its atmosphere of dusky gloom. When the daylight dawns upon the city, it +seems to shrivel up and shrink into the mouths of the yawning black +cellars and foul alleys whose very breath is a deadly poison. There are +dozens of taverns scattered about the city, and within these rooms or +stalls are partitioned off where sin may be screened from public view, +for even those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so low that they +dare not carry on their nefarious operations in the face of their +everyday companions. These dens are countenanced by the authorities, and +one may find within them criminals of every grade who prey upon each +other for their sustenance: but in the long run, it is the proprietor +who comes out with a substantial bank account. + +Beggars, peddlers, musicians, singers of both sexes, and itinerant +vendors of all kinds jostle each other in these haunts of sin, and great +caution should be exercised in visiting them, for in certain localities, +crimes of the most brutal character are of daily, I might say hourly +occurrence. I would suggest that the tourist should at such times +depend for safety upon the company of a first-class detective. + +Let praise be given where it is due. The Salvationists of Europe have by +their indefatigable labors reclaimed thousands of these men and women +from their lives of sin and misery. You will meet these untiring workers +everywhere, exhorting, praying, pleading with fallen humanity. These +noble bands of Christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome hovels, +and, wrestling with filth and disease, in many cases come off +victorious. They have been known to wash the clothing and cleanse the +houses of fever-stricken families, and supply wholesome food and care +for helpless infants, defied at every step by a drunken son or father. +They fear nothing, knowing that their cause is God's cause, and that in +the end Almighty Goodness shall win an eternal conquest. + +It is customary throughout England to close all the saloons on Sundays +until noon, after which time they open their doors, and remain open till +midnight as upon week-days. + +Of the many cities whose haunts I have visited at night, I think that +without exception, unless it be London, Liverpool leads in depravity and +vice. + +The country from Liverpool to Chester abounds in attractive scenery, +local in character and possessing the additional charm of novelty for +the American tourist. Along the route are scattered a number of old +taverns, such as "The Horn," "The Green Tree," and similar names. +Dismounting from bicycle or trap, the traveller who enters one of these +ancient landmarks will find everything in "apple pie order": the floor +clean and shining like a bright new dollar just launched from the mint. +He will sit at a table within one of the three stalls on either side of +the little room, and the landlord's wife will bring him a bumper of +"good auld Al," the effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial, +if it corresponds with my experience. + +[Illustration: "This is a fine field for the student of human nature." +(_See page 24._)] + +Chester, oldest of English cities, is full of quaint residences and +other ancient buildings. The old wall which surrounds the town is the +only one in Great Britain which has been preserved entire. It forms a +continuous ring, although in some places the earth has climbed so far +above its base, that it appears no higher than a terrace. Its rugged +outer parapet is still complete, and the wide flagging forms a +delightful promenade, with a fine view of the surrounding country. The +earliest date which we find upon the wall is A. D. 61, when it was +erected by the Romans. Twelve years later, Marius, king of the +Britons, extended the wall. The Britons were defeated under it in 607, +and after a lapse of three centuries, it was rebuilt by the daughter of +Alfred the Great. It has a long and eventful history, and the old +Cathedral whose edge it skirts, is one of the largest and most ancient +in England. The sculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn smooth +by the hand of time. The stained glass windows are marvels of art, the +groined arches, dreamy cloisters, and antique carving upon seats and +pews fill one with admiration mingled with awe. There are many fine +mosaics here, and specimens of wood from the Holy Land. Costly gems +adorn the choir; here too is a Bible whose cover is inlaid with precious +stones. The massive Gothic pillars are still in a perfect state of +preservation, as well as the numerous ancient monuments and relics of +the past. The vast size of the Cathedral is a perpetual source of wonder +to the stranger, who, wandering among its curious historic mementos, +gazing upon its storied nave, transepts and choir, and upon the Bible +scenes pictured in these glorious windows, feels that he has been +transported by some magician's hand into an age long buried in the past. +The Cathedral is said to have been founded in the year 200. Its height +within, from floor to the lofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows +is from sixty to one hundred feet. The Church of St. John the Baptist +rivals the Cathedral in antiquity, but it is now a picturesque ruin +covered with moss and ivy. + +Chester itself contains many antiquities that are to be found nowhere +else in the world. The houses, dating back to 1500, or even earlier, are +of every degree of shade and color, with little windows with +diamond-shaped panes, and gable ends facing the streets whose sidewalks +are on a level with the second stories. Everything here seems to belong +to the past, excepting the fine, modern station, ten hundred and fifty +feet long, with its projecting iron roofed wings for the protection of +vehicles waiting for passengers from the trains. This station is one of +the longest in England. The famous Chester Rows are public passages +running through the second stories of the houses facing the four +principal streets. These arcades are reached by flights of steps at the +corners of the streets, and contain some very attractive shops. The old +timber-built houses of Chester with their curious inscriptions are all +preserved in their original ancient style, and nowhere in England can +the artist or photographer find a more interesting spot, or one +richer in ancient and mediaeval relics than this little town. + +[Illustration: "Wayside Inn, New Brighton." (_See page 31._)] + +The quaint old taverns carry one back, back, to the life of the past. +Drop in at the Bear & Billet Inn some day, or The Falcon Inn, and yield +yourself up to the charming mediaeval atmosphere of the place. Seat +yourself at the little table beside the window, and look out upon the +same scene which your English ancestors looked upon more than two +hundred years ago. The landlord's wife will bring you a foaming tankard +of ale. It is the same tankard from which your forefathers quenched +their thirst, and if you are of a contented, philosophical temperament, +you will experience the same comfort and enjoyment as they, in this +truly English beverage. If you are not fired with enthusiasm by this +old-time picture, wend your way to the banks of the River Dee, where you +may paint the greens in every variety of light and shade, with one of +the picturesque old farmhouses which abound here in the foreground, and +some "blooded" cattle resting quietly beneath the wide-spreading +branches of the trees. Or here is the single wide arch of Grosvenor +Bridge crossing the river, with a span of two hundred feet. This is one +of the largest stone arches in Europe. Or here is a bit of the old wall +skirting the water, and the charming picture of the Old Bridge, which +dates back to the thirteenth century; and here too are the vast mills of +the Dee, associated with the history and traditions of eight hundred +years. With its surrounding country, and the succession of lovely +gardens bordering the Dee, surely Chester is one of the choice spots in +England for the lover of the quaint and beautiful. Within the pretty +residences of the suburbs may be found all the comforts and recreations +of a happy prosperous family life, united with genuine English +hospitality, and a cordial welcome for the stranger. The owner of one of +these charming homes orders up his cart, and insists upon taking us for +a drive through this delightful locality, and for miles and miles our +hearts and eyes are captivated by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits +of scenery. We wind up with a cup of good hot tea, thinly cut buttered +bread, and other dainties. + +[Illustration: "Typical English houses with their massive thatched +roofs." (_See page 31._)] + +A decided change from the ancient and mediaeval associations of Chester +is the prosperous city of Leamington, a watering-place situated on the +Leam River, a tributary of the Avon. The natural mineral springs +discovered here in 1797 have proved the source of great benefit to this +town, as the springs are highly recommended by physicians, and many +invalids resort thither. But as health is not our object in coming, +we do not follow the popular custom, but proceeding to the banks of the +River Leam, engage one of the many small boats which may be hired, and +drift leisurely down the stream with the current, revelling in the +wealth of beauty which surrounds us. Hundreds of lovely nooks disclose +themselves to our eager eyes--typical English scenes--and as we float +along life assumes an ideal aspect under the witchery of this +picturesque river. Here are old farmhouses in the foreground, with their +richly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds of acres, and here +are velvet lawns, with their dainty high-bred air, surrounding noble +homes, stately and silent. Now a group of merry children dance about the +water side, and a great Newfoundland dog dashes wildly into the stream +after a ball or stick, swimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize. +How the children scream and run away as he rushes joyously up to them, +shaking the spray over their dresses and into their faces. Oh fair River +Leam! these lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon your waters +love you, and we too, strangers from a foreign shore, here yield our +tribute of loving praise for the happy hours we owe to you, lingering +often, reluctant to leave some especially charming spot where the +branches of the trees overhang the stream, and touch our faces with +soft caressing fingers. + + "Nature was here so lavish of her store, + That she bestowed until she had no more." + +This scene too fades as we board one of the many tram-cars, and in a few +moments are carried to the very gateway of the world-renowned Warwick +Castle, which occupies a commanding position, overlooking the Avon. This +ancient pile is artistically poised, and presents grand effects of +color, light and shade. Upon the payment of a shilling for each person, +the massive iron doors which for centuries have guarded this stately and +historic stronghold, open as if by magic, and a passageway cut through +the solid rock leads us to an open space, where we have a fine view of +the magnificent round towers and embattled walls. A visit of two hours +gives us opportunity to climb to the top of the ancient towers which for +ages have loomed up as monuments of power and defiance in the face of +the enemy. We are impressed with the vast size of the castle. The view +from the towers and the windows is beautiful and romantic. In the +spacious courtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft velvety +turf, and the hand of time has colored towers and battlements a rich +brown hue that blends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and out +wherever it can find a place. + +[Illustration: "Suburban residence." (_See page 42._)] + +The gardens slope down to the Avon, from whose banks there is a +picturesque view of the river front of the castle, and here as well as +in the park we see some fine old cedars of Lebanon, brought from the +East by the Warwick Crusaders. In the main castle we enter a number of +the apartments which are furnished in a style of regal splendor. The +Great Entrance Hall, sixty two feet long and forty wide, is rich in dark +old oak wainscoting, and curious ancient armor; and shields and coronets +of the earls of many generations, as well as the "Bear and Ragged +Staff," of Robert Dudley's crest are carved upon its Gothic ceiling. The +Gilt Drawing-room contains a rare collection of the masterpieces of +great artists. This room is so called from the richly gilded panels +which cover its walls and ceiling. In the Cedar Drawing-room are +wonderful antique vases, furniture and other curios, which would well +repay a much longer inspection than we can give them. But all the rooms +in this magnificent old feudal castle are filled with the finest +specimens of works of ancient art in every line. The paintings alone +fill us with despair, for they line the walls in close succession, and +the artists' names are Murillo, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Sir Peter +Lely, Guido, Andrea del Sarto, and many others of like celebrity. What +an opportunity for those who have the time to linger in this atmosphere +of lofty genius! + +Many beautiful old shade trees surround the castle, and the restful +silence inspires one with the desire to be alone and yield himself up to +the spirit of the place, hallowed by such wealth of associations and the +presence of immortal art. + +A short distance from the castle, and outside the Warwick enclosure, +stands an old mill upon the bank of the Avon. This ancient and +picturesque structure was originally built for the purpose of grinding +wheat, but the all-observing eye of the artist quickly discovered in it +a mission of a higher order, and for years it has posed as the central +figure in the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush of the painter +or the camera of the photographer. + +Taking a drag and driving through Kenilworth, Coventry and Stoneleigh, +will give one delightful views of some of the most beautiful portions of +England. The roads are macadamized, and in good condition. This is a +fine farming country, and here we see the typical English farmhouses, +built of brick and stone, surrounded by well-cultivated fields, +stretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape. The fields are +separated by green hedges, and the whole scene is one that can hardly be +surpassed throughout "Merrie England." + +From these lovely quiet homes, we pass through roads bordered with wild +flowers to the ruins of one of the most magnificent castles in Great +Britain. It is hardly necessary to say that Kenilworth is inseparably +associated with Sir Walter Scott, and his graphic descriptions of the +scenes and events that have taken place here in the days of its glory. +This castle, one of the finest and most extensive baronial ruins in +England, dates back to about 1120 A. D. It covered an area of seven +acres, but is now a mass of ivy-covered ruins, from which one can form +but a faint idea of its appearance in the height of its prosperity. Yet +the hand of nature has invested it with another kind of beauty, and in +place of the pomp and majesty of power, the brilliant pageants of the +court of Queen Elizabeth, we behold the clinging robe of ivy, the +daylight illuminating the gallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax +torches which flashed their lights upon the royal cavalcade, and a +little country road where once a stately avenue led to the tower, and +listened to the court secrets, lovers' vows and merry badinage uttered +within its shades. The castle has passed through many changes, and +experienced stormy days as well as those of prosperity and luxury, but +the pen of Scott has immortalized it on the summit of its glory, and +though the ages may cast their blight upon its visible form, it will +ever live in the soul of the artist, the poet, the lover of beauty, as a +scene of splendor, of sorrowful tragedy, of magnificent design. + +But a few steps beyond the Kenilworth grounds is an old English inn--The +King's Arms. It is so picturesque and romantic-looking, that I feel like +rechristening it: "The Entire Royal Family." + +Let us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-time atmosphere and +many curious attractions. Here the artist is in his element, for on +every side are quaint corners, cozy nooks, and relics for which the +lover of the antique would give a fortune; while outside the windows the +beautiful English landscape beams upon one with inviting smiles. The +landlady, with her cheerful bustling air and broad accent, imparts a +pleasant thrill of anticipation, which is more than realized upon the +appearance of the savory chops,--grown on the neighboring hillside, +whose rich green pasturage is a guarantee for the flavor and quality of +the meat,--the delicious hot cakes, and the unfailing tankard, or if +one prefers it, the cup of fragrant tea. And so we sit and refresh the +inner man, while the soul revels in the world of beauty around us, and +picture after picture passes before the mental vision, connecting these +scenes with famous historic characters, or wonderful events of legendary +lore. So lovely are these views, that one could gaze for hours, and +never weary of the "living jewels dropp'd unstained from heaven," for +this picturesque country possesses a peculiar freshness, as though free +from the touch of care and the hand of time, like the fair maiden who +has received from the fountain of youth the gift of eternal life and +beauty. + + + + +Lights and Shadows of London Life. + + + + +_Lights and Shadows of London Life._ + + The Shadow Side--The Slums--The City by Night--Vice and + Misery--"Chinese Johnson's" Opium Den--The "Bunco" Man--An English + Guard--"The Grand Old Man"--Caution to Tourists--Great Cities by + Night--The Seven Dials--Derby Day--The Tally-Ho--Old Robin Hood + Inn--Epsom Hill--The Races--Exciting Scenes--Side Shows--The Close of + the Day. + + +As nature derives much of its charm from the intermingling of light and +shade, so in life there are many scenes of sharp contrast, and we often +have a deeper appreciation of its beauties after beholding the reverse +side of the picture. Some one has said: "In actions of life, who seeth +not the filthiness of evil, wanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty +of virtue." + +What better opportunity of studying this phase of life can there be, +than in the faces of those whose existence is passed amid associations +of suffering, want and crime; who not only witness, but experience all +these in their different shades and degrees. + +Take with me a walk through the worst portions of the greatest +metropolis in the world, and observe a few of the pictures in the +localities where humanity is born and nourished in misery, filth and +sin. Guarded by three of England's best paid detectives, I follow +closely in their footsteps, not daring to speak lest I rouse in his lair +the slumbering lion of passion and revenge. From street to street we +pass, viewing the wretched tenements, and more wretched inmates huddling +together over a faint spark of fire, or vainly trying to impart to their +little ones some of the natural warmth which still exists in their +bodies, in spite of hunger, cold and fatigue. The crumbs from the tables +of the rich would be a lavish feast to these poor creatures. Clean water +is as great a stranger to their stomachs as to their bodies; loathsome +rags cover their emaciated forms, and the destroyer drink has left his +signet upon their countenances. A little farther on is the vile dance +house into which the inhabitants of this neighborhood crawl for the +lowest stage of their degradation. A motley throng is assembled here, +and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill laughter and drunken +oaths. + +I am guarded so carefully that many times I am hurried away from a scene +more quickly than I wish, the officers fearing that our presence may +create a disturbance among these reckless characters. We enter a low +saloon in a cellar dimly lighted by an old oil lamp: the atmosphere is +gruesome, and one of the detectives warns me that the men who frequent +this haunt are desperate fellows who would not hesitate to stab me for +the sake of my clothing. Old and grizzled habitues line reeking walls, +with depravity written upon every countenance, and I fully realize that +my life would not be worth a moment's purchase here should my attendants +forsake me. + +Now we are in a long narrow alley, as black as Erebus, which gives one +the feeling of being in a subterranean passage upon some mysterious +mission. In a few minutes a light appears ahead--a dull glimmering +bluish light, like that which is supposed to hover above graveyards--and +we pause in front of a small frame house of two stories. A knock upon +the door brings to the threshold a little dried up, wizened Chinaman, +made feeble by long dissipation, who in his broken language makes us +welcome. The place is "Chinese Johnson's" opium den. How can I describe +the scene that is before me? In this room are many small dirty cots +filled with unconscious human beings, willing victims of the pernicious +drug--a loathsome spectacle--and here on a small couch sits the +proprietor of the establishment. This is his throne of state, and here +he can smoke with impunity the deadly drug, which has no perceptible +effect upon his depraved body. We are glad to end this experience and +banish from our minds the unattractive picture of the Chinaman in his +elysian fields. + +We are not the only ones who have the privilege of viewing these scenes. +Any one who desires and possesses the necessary courage may invade the +haunts and dens of the lower world, and be profited by the lessons here +learned; but he must exercise great caution. The studies are not only +for the brush and camera: they are food for the thoughtful mind which +can apply the wisdom thus gained, and seek in these conditions for the +solution of knotty problems. One can better appreciate, by reason of +this contrast, the blessings of his own life; of purity, honesty and +contentment as opposed to ignorance, poverty and vice. + +This evening, fatigued in mind and body by my experience in the slums of +London, I enter the Holborn Restaurant, hoping to enjoy a good dinner, +and at the same time be entertained by the delightful music of skilled +musicians. I seat myself at a table on the second floor, and supposing +myself free from intrusion, yield myself up to the charming melody, +when a good-looking and well-dressed man approaches, and with many +apologies asks if the seat opposite me is engaged. I assure him that I +do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of the Holborn, and that I +can speak only of the chair upon which I am sitting. Upon this he takes +the opposite place and gives to the waiter an order for quite an +extravagant supply of the dainties enumerated on the bill of fare. +During the time intervening between the giving of the order and its +delivery, no conversation passes between us, but I have an unpleasant +consciousness of his presence, and occasionally feel his eyes resting +upon me. The appearance of the epicurean repast seems to impart the +confidence he requires, and he addresses me with the remark that I must +pardon him for staring at me so impolitely, but he is sure he has met me +before. Am I not an American? to which I assent. "Are you a New Yorker?" +is the next interrogation from this experienced catechiser. He can +readily perceive that I am an American by my foreign accent. + +To the last question I also respond in the affirmative, and may heaven +forgive the falsehood. "Ah," he says, "do you frequent the races at +Sheepshead Bay?" "Yes, generally," I reply. (I have never seen the +place.) "It is there, then, that I have met you. Were you not there last +summer?" "Many times." (Another breach of truth.) "Will you kindly give +me your name?" follows as a matter of course. I reach my hand into my +pocket and draw out a card upon which is engraved simply my name, and +extending it toward him, remark: "My name is Charles M. Taylor, Jr., and +I am associated with Mr. ----, one of the chief detectives at Scotland +Yard. My present mission is to look up some 'Bunco' men from New York +who have headquarters in London. Here is my card." But the stranger does +not take the card. He glances hastily at his watch, and rising +hurriedly, says: "It is nine o'clock. I did not know it was so late. I +must be off, as I have an important engagement." + +As he pushes back his chair, I quickly call a waiter, and tell him to +collect the money for this gentleman's order, as I do not wish to be +held responsible for it. He pays for the meal which he has not touched, +and in his haste to depart forgets his manners, for he does not wish me +"good-night." + +Did he think I was a tender lamb? This hurts my pride somewhat. I am +sorry, however, that I was obliged to deceive him so. + +One evening while discussing matters in general with an English friend, +born and bred in the city of London, we touch upon the order and +unswerving obedience of the soldiers, policemen and good citizens who +dwell under the dominion of her gracious Majesty, the Queen, in the +great metropolis; and my friend cites as an example, the guards who +patrol nightly the White Hall Horse Guards Barracks, as adhering so +strictly to their line of march that they will not turn out of their way +one inch for any person or obstacle in their direct course. I accept the +wager of a dinner at the Holborn to be given by me if I do not succeed +in inducing one of these guards to move out of his line of march. +Selecting a dark night for the one in which to make good my assertion, I +approach the barracks, and espy the guard with bayonet at "Carry arms," +making a "bee line" toward me. I walk in his direction with head bent +low, and come so close that there would be a collision were it not for +the stern and firmly-uttered "Halt" that comes from his lips. I halt +face to face with this noble specimen of humanity, standing fully six +feet one in his boots, and as straight as "Jack's bean pole." "Sir," I +say, "you are in my way, will you please move out?" He makes no +response. "Will you please step aside and allow me to pass?" No +response. "Come, my good fellow," I continue in persuasive tones, "I +have made a wager that you will move out of line for me, and if you do I +will share the bet with you." No reply. But I see in the immovable +countenance an inflexible determination to do his duty which all the +bribes in Christendom will not be able to change. I feel that death only +can prevent his obedience to orders. "Well," I conclude, "you are a good +fellow, and the power you serve, be it queen, emperor, or president, is +to be envied for having such a faithful subject. I respect your +obedience to law and order. Good-night." No response. It is needless to +say that I pay the forfeit willingly, and my friend and I enjoy a good +dinner at the Holborn. + +[Illustration: "White Hall Horse Guards' Barracks." (_See page 63._)] + +Strolling one morning about London, with nothing better to do than to +take in "odd bits" that come in my way, I observe a large crowd of +citizens assembled opposite the entrance to Parliament, and going up to +a policeman, I ask what has happened, or is about to happen? But the +officer looks perfectly blank, and can give me no information whatever. +I bethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules governing information +sought from guards, cab-drivers, and omnibus whips in the city of +London, and straightway putting my hand in my pocket, I produce +several pennies which I give him for a mug of "Half and Half." A change +comes over his countenance, his vanished senses quickly return, and with +a courteous smile he remarks that Gladstone is expected to appear in +Parliament for the first time after an illness of some weeks. And this +obliging "cop" not only gives me the desired information, but escorts me +to a good position in the crowd, just in time to behold the "Grand Old +Man," who, holding his hat in his hand, bows smilingly in response to +the enthusiastic greetings which come from every side. He walks briskly +along, and as he comes close to me, moved by an irresistible impulse, I +step out from the throng, and extend my hand, saying: "I am an American, +who wishes to shake the hand of the man who has so bravely fought a hard +battle." The proud old face looks pleasantly into mine, his hand meets +mine with a cordial grasp, and replying that he is glad to meet an +American, Gladstone passes on to the scene of his many conflicts and +victories. + +The tourist who is bent on seeing the various sections of a great city, +and especially those localities which are best observed by night, should +be very cautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty: such for +example as the old Seven Dials of London, as it used to be. I have had +many unpleasant and untold encounters, and been placed in situations, +not only trying, but extremely dangerous, while attempting to explore +these hidden regions unattended and alone. Experience has taught me that +it is best to go "well heeled," that is accompanied by the best informed +and most expert detectives, as what they may charge for their services +is cheap in comparison with a mutilated head or body. One's own ready +wit and shrewdness are all very well in some cases, but there are times +when these fail, and the man at the other end, drunken, brutal, and +excited, will make you wish you had "let sleeping dogs lie." + +It is well for travellers and others to visit the slums of large cities +by night. Here is food for comparison and reflection, and from these may +perhaps arise a different feeling from that with which we are accustomed +to regard the poor wretches who have lacked the advantages of birth, +education and environment. + +In company with four detectives, I visited the "Seven Dials" of London, +and the experience of those nights spent in scenes of horror, vice and +degradation would fill volumes. Picture to yourself a small narrow +street, with low wooden houses of two stories on either side. There are +dim glimmering lights at intervals of about fifty feet. The hour is two +o'clock in the morning, as one tourist attended by four officers wends +his way through an atmosphere filled with dread and horror. We enter +some of the houses which present scenes of indescribable squalor and +confusion. A perfect bedlam of tongues reigns here. Men and women hurl +abusive epithets at each other, from windows and doors, as well as from +one end of the street to the other. The entire neighborhood enters into +the quarrel, and the transition from words to blows is sudden and +fierce. The street is filled in an instant with ragged, and almost naked +beings, whom one can hardly call human, and the battle which ensues with +clubs, knives and fists is beyond imagination. Cut heads, broken limbs, +bruised bodies, bleeding countenances appear on every side, and it is +quite evident that many are scarred for life. The sight is loathsome, +yet it makes one's heart ache. Such scenes are of frequent occurrence in +the slums of nearly every large city, where drink and depravity count +their victims by thousands. In these vile abodes are the haunts of the +thief, the smuggler, the fallen, and the pictures once seen, are +indelibly impressed on the memory, with the long train of reflections +awakened by such sights, and the inevitable query: Why is not something +done to render such scenes impossible in this age of civilization? + +At last the great Derby Day has arrived, and the whole atmosphere is +filled with the importance of the occasion. The sprinkling rain does not +dampen the ardor and enthusiasm of the true Englishman, for I am told +that the races have never been postponed on account of the weather. +After breakfast we stroll to the street corner where stands our tally-ho +in readiness for the day's excursion. Having engaged our seats the +previous day, we take our places and start forth, drawn by four spirited +horses under the guidance of an experienced driver. The whip is cracked, +the horn sends forth its musical signal, and away we go amid the cheers +and applause of numerous spectators. Swiftly we roll over the well paved +streets, and the high spirits of the company, accompanied by the +frequent winding of the horn, render the ride extremely pleasant. The +race-course is about eighteen miles out of London, and our road is +through a beautiful portion of the country. Every lane and avenue is +thronged with people, walking, driving, or on bicycles, but all going to +the Derby. We stop for refreshment at the old Robin Hood Inn, an ancient +hostelry, established, we are told, in 1409. Here we have a beverage, +supposed to be soda water or milk, but which is in truth a stronger +concoction, to brace us for the mental and physical strain of this +exciting day. "All aboard," cries the coachman, and there is a general +scramble for places. At last we are all seated, and proceed on our way, +changing horses when half the distance is covered. + +We take the main thoroughfare within three miles of the Epsom grounds, +and now a wonderful sight bursts upon us. Thousands of pedestrians of +both sexes and every age are flocking toward the race course: hundreds +of carriages, vans, dog carts, tally-hos, vehicles of every description +throng the road. Enormous trains are constantly arriving, bearing their +thousands to the Downs, now covered with a vast moving mass. London +empties itself on this all-important day, and proceeds to Epsom by every +possible means of locomotion. The grand stand, a handsome and commodious +structure, is quickly filled to overflowing. There are numerous other +stands. The appearance of the Downs, with the countless booths and the +waving multitude which cover it as far as the eye can reach, is a +spectacle that cannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic. No +other event in England can concentrate such an amount of interest and +excitement as is found on the scene of the Derby. Every one is in high +spirits: young and old, men, women and children all seem merry and +happy, laughing, singing, dancing along on this one great day of the +year. Behold the party on our right. A large wagon contains ten or more +men and women, who are singing and laughing in great glee, and who +invite us to join them. Here a group of a half dozen men with musical +instruments at their sides are singing to their own accompaniment. The +dust rises in clouds, and we are covered from head to foot with it as +with a garment: we all wear veils pinned around our heads to protect our +eyes. + +At last we reach Epsom Hill, and here we pay two guineas for the +admission of our party and conveyance. We are also entitled to a place +anywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-course. Our horses are +picketed after being taken from the wagon, and our two attendants spread +before us a most sumptuous repast. Coaches of every kind are so thickly +jumbled together that for a vast distance the hill seems covered with a +coat of dark paint. + +[Illustration: "A short run of an hour." (_See page 83._)] + +Thousands and thousands of men, women and children are assembled upon +this hillside, while tens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the +race-course. It is estimated that no less than from one hundred +thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand persons are massed together +at these races. + +The race-course is not like those in the United States, but is a sodded +strip extending about half a mile in a straight line. The ringing of a +bell announces the commencement of the races, and the mass of humanity +surges to and fro in great excitement. Now is the book-maker's time, and +he passes hither and thither, shouting his offers to the enthusiastic +multitude, who accept or reject his propositions with eagerness or +scorn, corresponding with their knowledge or ignorance of the horses +ventured. Gambling and betting are at their height: vast sums of money +change hands at the conclusion of the races, and many inexperienced as +well as reckless ones leave the field at night ruined men. Meanwhile the +confusion is indescribable. + +But these sounds drop away, and silence prevails as five slender +well-shaped racers appear, ridden by jockeys, but when the wild mad race +begins in which each endeavors to outdo the others, the excitement and +tumult know no bounds: shouts, groans, cheers fill the air, and every +eye is strained along the course: one could readily believe that a +whole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill the air with +their hoarse discordant sounds. + +As the winning horse reaches the goal, a placard of large dimensions, on +which his number is conspicuously painted, is raised within full view of +the swaying crowd. The shouts and cheers burst forth afresh, and jubilee +and pandemonium mingle their extremes in a scene to be imagined only by +those who have experienced it. + +As the first excitement cools, bets are paid, and accounts squared. +Again the bell rings: another race, and a repetition of the previous +scene, and so it continues for several hours. + +But the racing is not the sole attraction, as is evidenced by the crowds +surrounding the refreshment booths and side tents, where for a small fee +one may see the Fat Woman, the Skeleton Man, or the Double-Headed Boy; +or listen to the colored minstrels who charm the soul with plantation +melodies; or have his fortune told in the gypsy tent by a dark-eyed maid +in gorgeous attire, who will tell of a wonderful future which is "sure +to come true." Or you may have your photograph taken on the spot, and +finished while you wait. Here is a phonograph representing a variety +entertainment, and the little group around it are laughing heartily at +the jokes of the "funny man," the ventriloquist, and the story-teller. +Here are fine bands of musicians, and dozens of oddities, and curious +tricksters: and the whole forms one grand panorama of human life, the +counterpart of which is to be seen nowhere else in the world. + +At five o'clock, the horses are harnessed to our tally-ho, and with +smiling but dusty and sunburned faces we bid farewell to the scene of +gayety and start for home. Every road and byway in the surrounding +country is swarming with people, and the scale of pleasure, +disappointment, grief, hilarity and fatigue is reflected in the +countenances of riders and pedestrians. Here is a group, overheated, +weary, dejected, trudging slowly along the way, interchanging scarcely a +word with each other: here a merry party, filled with life, singing, +laughing, recounting the events of the day, as they wander on, arm in +arm. Now a little lame boy smiles in our faces from the tiny cart which +his sister pushes cheerily forward, and now a gay belle dashes by in a +carriage drawn by fast horses, holding the ribbons and whip in correct +style, while her companion leans back, indolently enjoying the +situation. + +The countenances of the men tell various tales, as the triumphs or +failures of the day are expressed in their faces. Some few wear a +stolid, impassive air, while others talk, talk, talk, as though they +have never had an opportunity till now. As we ride along amid the +stupendous throngs, many thoughts are aroused, and many a picture is put +away in the recesses of memory to be brought forth and pondered over on +a future day. + +With the shades of night the curtain falls upon a scene of such +magnitude that the brain is weary of contemplating it, and is glad to +find temporary forgetfulness in "tired nature's sweet restorer." And so +ends the great Derby Day. + +[Illustration: "The chalky cliffs of Dover." (_See page 83._)] + + + + +Scenes in the Gay Capital. + + + + +_Scenes in the Gay Capital._ + + Dover to Calais--Paris--The Gay Capital by Night--Boulevards--Life in + the Streets--Champs Elysees--Place de la Concorde--Arc d'Etoile--Place + Vendome--Louvre--Opera House--Palais Royal--Church of the + Invalides--Versailles--Notre Dame--Jardin Mabille--The Madeleine--The + Pantheon--The Banks of the Seine--French Funeral Ceremonies--La + Morgue--Pere Lachaise. + + +We travel from London to Dover by train, thence by steamer to Calais. +The chalky cliffs of Dover with their high precipitous sides are a +pleasant and restful farewell picture of the shores of old England. A +short run of an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different from +those of the past few weeks that we feel that the magician's wand has +again been exercised and the "Presto, change," has transported us to a +region of maliciously disposed genii, who will not understand us, or +allow us to comprehend their mysterious utterances; and the +transformation scene is complete as we enter Paris, the home of the +light, the gay, the fantastic. + +Let the lover of the bright, the gay, the jovial, visit the broad +boulevards of Paris by night, especially the Avenue des Champs Elysees, +which seems to be the favorite promenade of the populace. Upon both +sides are groves of trees, brilliantly illuminated by myriads of colored +lights, and here amid these bowers is to be found every variety of +entertainment for the people. Games of chance are played in the gay +booths, Punch and Judy shows attract crowds of children, wonderful feats +of horsemanship are performed, singers in aerial costumes draw many to +the Cafes Chantants, and the lights of innumerable cabs and carriages +flit to and fro in every direction like will-o'-the-wisps. Here is fine +military music, as well as exhibitions of skillful playing on almost +every known instrument. + +The wide boulevards are long, straight and marvels of beauty, with their +lovely gardens, handsome houses, and fine shops. + +There are strong contrasts in the lives of those one sees upon these +streets under the gaslight. I think Dante's three realms are pretty +clearly represented along the avenues of Paris, beneath the starry dome +of heaven, and within these gayly decorated booths and cafes. Here may +be seen the high and the low, the rich and the poor, the grave and the +gay, the innocent and the hardened in guilt, the adventurer and his +unsuspecting victim. And this heterogeneous throng, this careless +pleasure-loving crowd, may be seen drifting from one point to another +till the cock crows the warning of approaching dawn. The streets of +Paris by night afford abundant material for the artist, the +photographer, the poet, author and clergyman; as well as the adventurer. +Here indeed, if anywhere, one may + + "read the human heart, + Its strange, mysterious depths explore. + What tongue could tell, or pen impart + The riches of its hidden lore?" + +The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful square in Paris. From its +centre are magnificent views of the grand boulevards and many of the +handsome public buildings, and here are the great bronze fountains +marking the historic spot upon which stood the guillotine during the +French Revolution. The lovely walks, the sparkling waters, and the +statues and monuments, the obelisk, the merry strollers, and picturesque +tableaux seen at every turn are positively enchanting. Up the broad +vista of the Champs Elysees the eye rests upon the wonderful Arc +d'Etoile, one of the most conspicuous monuments in Paris. It stands in +the Place d'Etoile, one of the most fashionable sections of the city, +and is surrounded by elegant residences and pleasant gardens. From this +point radiate twelve of the most beautiful avenues in Paris, and from +the summit of the arch one can see for miles down these grand +boulevards. The magnificent arch of triumph, commenced in 1806 by +Napoleon, was not finished until 1836. It is a vast structure, rising +one hundred and fifty feet from the ground. The great central arch is +ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide, and is crossed by a spacious +transverse arch. Upon the outside of the arch are groups of splendidly +executed statuary, representing scenes of conquest and allegorical +figures. A spiral staircase leads to the platform on top, where one +beholds this superb prospect which well deserves its world-wide +celebrity. + +We come upon the Place Vendome through the Rue de la Paix, and here +stands the great historic column, erected by the first Napoleon in +commemoration of his victories over the Russians and Austrians. The +monument is constructed of twelve hundred pieces of cannon, captured in +the campaign of 1805. Upon the pedestal and around the shaft which is +one hundred and thirty-five feet high, are bas-reliefs representing +warlike implements and the history of the war from the departure of the +troops from Boulogne to its end on the famous field of Austerlitz. + +In front of the central entrance to the court of the Tuileries, in the +Place du Carrousel, is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, also erected by +Napoleon I., in 1806, in imitation of the triumphal arch of Severus at +Rome. In the garden of the Tuileries, with its old-time atmosphere, its +statues, fountains and pillars, its groves and terraces, its historic +ruins, its lovely flower-beds, we find a quaint and charming picture of +a past age; yet when these groves and paths resound with the hum of +human voices, when the many chairs and benches are filled with joyous +human beings, the link between the past and present is established, and +we are in one of the favorite resorts of the Parisians of to-day. + +Between the Tuileries and the Louvre is Napoleon's triumphal Arc du +Carrousel--or rather between the courtyards of the two famous piles, +which now form one continuous structure of magnificent architectural +design, whose facade is adorned with Corinthian columns, elaborate +sculptures and lofty pavilions. Groups of statuary, representing the +most distinguished men of France, allegorical figures, floral designs +and other decorations on a vast scale ornament these magnificent +pavilions. The space enclosed by the old and new Louvres and the +Tuileries is about sixty acres. + +Some of the most beautiful of the architectural designs of the Louvre +were completed by Napoleon I.,--to whom it owes much of its +restoration,--from the drawings of Perrault, the famous author of +Bluebeard, and the Sleeping Beauty. + +We cross a square and quickly find ourselves in the garden of the Palais +Royal, once the Palais Cardinal, and the home of Richelieu. The ground +floor of the palace is occupied by shops. The garden which is enclosed +by the four sides of the square, is about a thousand feet long and +nearly four hundred feet wide. Here is a quadruple row of elms, also +long flower-beds, shrubbery, a fountain and some statues. A military +band plays here in the afternoon, but the garden presents the gayest +scene in the evening, when it is brilliantly illuminated, and the chairs +under the elms, as well as the long walks are filled with gay +pleasure-seekers. + +There is a magnificent opera house near the Grand Hotel, whose vast +exterior is ornamented with beautiful statuary, medallions, gilding and +other rich decorations. + +In the Church of the Invalides we find the tomb of Napoleon I., who in +his will expressed a desire that his ashes might rest on the banks of +the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom he had loved so well. +The open circular crypt is beneath the lofty dome, whose light falls +upon it through colored glass, and with a wonderful effect. The pavement +of the crypt is a mosaic, representing a great crown of laurels, within +which are inscribed the names of Napoleon's most important victories; +and twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests, surround the wreath. +The sarcophagus rests upon the mosaic pavement within the crypt, which +is twenty feet in depth. This is an enormous block of red sandstone, +weighing more than sixty tons, which surmounts another huge block +supported by a splendid rock of green granite. The scene is solemn and +grandly impressive, the faint bluish light from above, producing an +effect wholly indescribable. In the higher of the two cupolas, directly +over the crypt, is a painting, with figures which appear of life-size +even at this great distance, of Christ presenting to St. Louis the sword +with which he vanquished the enemies of Christianity. + +Here is Versailles, with its "little park of twelve miles in extent, and +its great park of forty," with its beautiful fountains and grottos, its +wonderful groves and flower-beds. Here are velvety lawns adorned with +fine statuary, green alleys, shrubberies and terraces, in which art and +nature are so cunningly intermingled that they are often mistaken for +each other. The fountains are representations of mythological +characters, and the figures are carried out in their immediate +surroundings. Apollo is in his grotto, served by seven graceful nymphs: +while close by the steeds of the sun-god are being watered by tritons. +Again, the basin of this god appears surrounded by tritons, nymphs and +dolphins, with Neptune and Amphitrite in the centre, reposing in an +immense shell. + +Latona, Apollo and Diana are represented by a fine group: the goddess is +imploring Jupiter to punish the Lycian peasants who have refused her a +draught of water, while all around her, in swift answer to her appeal, +are the peasants, some partially transformed, others wholly changed into +huge frogs and tortoises, condemned here to an endless penalty of +casting jets of water toward the offended deity. + +Here is the famous old cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris with which +Victor Hugo has made the world familiar. This grand Gothic structure was +commenced in the twelfth century, and finished in the fourteenth. We +view its exterior from a position facing the fine west facade, with its +wonderful rose window between the huge square towers. The three +beautiful portals are ornamented with rich sculptures and imposing +statuary. These doors form a succession of receding arches, dating from +the early part of the thirteenth century. The central portion is a fine +representation of the Last Judgment. The interior is vast and impressive +with its vaulted arches and long rows of columns. The ancient stained +glass of Notre Dame is represented by three magnificent rose windows. +From the summit of the tower there is a glorious view of the Seine and +its picturesque banks and bridges: indeed one of the loveliest views in +Paris. + +Another famous and beautiful edifice is the Madeleine, or church of St. +Mary Magdalene, which stands in an open space not far from the Place de +la Concorde. It is in the form of a Grecian temple, surrounded by +Corinthian columns, and the flight of twenty-eight steps by which one +approaches the church, extends across its entire breadth. The great +bronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments. +Within, the walls and floors are of marble richly ornamented, and the +side chapels contain fine statues, and paintings of scenes from the life +of Mary Magdalene. The high altar is a magnificent marble group +representing angels bearing Mary Magdalene into Paradise. This whole +interior is indescribably beautiful, and to enter into its details one +would require a volume. From this sublime spectacle we pass to the +Church of St. Genevieve, the protectress of the city of Paris, +familiarly known as the Pantheon. This also is a magnificent structure, +with three rows of beautiful Corinthian columns supporting its portico. +The handsome pediment above this portico contains a splendid group of +statuary in high relief, representing France in the act of distributing +garlands to her famous sons. The central figure is fifteen feet in +height. The edifice is in the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a +majestic dome, two hundred and eighty feet high. + +Within the church the spacious rotunda is encircled by Corinthian +columns which support a handsome gallery, and he who ascends to the dome +will have an opportunity of observing closely the wonderful painting, +covering a space of thirty-seven hundred square feet, which represents +St. Genevieve receiving homage from Clovis, the first Christian monarch +of France, Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., while the royal +martyrs of the French Revolution are pictured in the heavenly regions +above. In the gloomy vaults below we behold the tombs of a number of +eminent men, among them those of Rousseau, Voltaire, and Soufflot, the +architect of the Pantheon. In the middle of the vaults is an astonishing +echo. The roll of a drum here would sound like the thunder of artillery; +a board dropped upon the pavement is like the report of a cannon, and +the reverberations are repeated over and over again as though these +subterranean spirits are loth to resign the opportunity of speech so +seldom afforded them. + +The tourist in Paris rarely fails to spend at least one evening in the +Jardin Mabille; that is the male tourist, who is curious to behold life +in all its phrases, and whom the fame of the garden attracts as the +candle draws the moth. This is a pretty spot, with bowery paths, gay +flowers, sparkling fountains, arbors and sheltered corners where lovers +and others may enjoy tete-a-tetes undisturbed, and refreshments may be +ordered to suit purses of all dimensions. There is a good orchestra on +the brilliantly illuminated stand, and here the soubrette is in the +height of her glory, while the better class of the visitors are as a +rule, only spectators. There is some pretty gay dancing here, but order +is preserved. On certain nights fine displays of fireworks attract many +spectators. But the great feature is the dance, and the proprietors +generally employ some girls distinguished by peculiar grace, beauty, or +other characteristics who serve as magnets to the light and +pleasure-loving throngs. + +But why attempt to give even a faint idea of the innumerable attractions +of the city whose abundant resources bewilder the tourist whose time is +limited. It teems with life. It is overflowing with beauty, passion and +love. Wandering along its gay boulevards, whether in the bright +sunshine, or beneath the starry vault of night, with picturesque +mansions or gay shops on either side, or amid the bowery paths and +bewitching avenues, the gardens, statues, music and laughter, one feels +that he is in an enchanted land, where high and low, rich and poor share +alike in the universal beauty and happiness. + +The charming banks of the Seine offer endless attractions. Here are many +beautiful bridges, from which one may have picturesque views of the +lovely gardens and palaces. These bridges are handsomely ornamented with +statuary, bronzes, and reliefs, and bear interesting inscriptions. +Floating bathing establishments are to be seen along these banks, and +swimming schools for both sexes. Here are also large floats or boats +capable of accommodating at least fifty women, who wash their clothing +in the Seine. It is quite interesting to watch these robust girls and +women, as they pat and slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles +provided for this purpose. + +When a death occurs in a family of the middle class in Paris, it is +customary to drape the whole lower story of the house with black, and +place the body of the deceased in the front room. Holy water is placed +at the head, also candles and a crucifix, and any one may enter and view +the body, or sprinkle it with holy water, and offer a prayer for the +soul of the departed. + +The men who pass a house so distinguished reverently uncover their +heads: they also take off their hats on the appearance of a funeral, and +remain so until the procession has passed. + +For him who is interested in such sights, the morgue presents a curious +but sad attraction. Here lie on marble slabs, kept cool by a continuous +stream of water, the bodies of unknown persons who have met their death +in the river or by accident. Their clothing is suspended above their +heads, and any one may enter and view these silent rows. After a certain +period, if not identified, they are buried at the public expense. I +behold many pathetic sights here, as broken-hearted relatives find their +worst fears realized and lost and erring ones are recognized. Sad, sad +are the pictures to be seen at the morgue. Here is a fair young girl, of +not more than twenty years, resting peacefully upon her marble bed, her +troubles in this world over forever. Her body was found yesterday +floating on the Seine. + + "One more unfortunate + Weary of breath, + Sadly importunate, + Gone to her death. + + "Touch her not scornfully; + Think of her mournfully, + Gently and humanly; + Not of the stains of her, + All that remains of her + Now is pure womanly. + + "Make no deep scrutiny + Into her mutiny + Rash and undutiful: + Past all dishonor, + Death has left on her + Only the beautiful." + +Pere Lachaise, once an old Jesuit stronghold, is now the largest +cemetery in Paris. It is said that there are more than eighteen +thousand monuments here. The older part is much crowded, and we find +here famous names connected with every age and profession. + +Here is a granite pyramid, here one of white marble, and here the love +of a nation commemorates with flowers the grave of a man whose +resting-place no lofty monument marks, but who "lives forever in the +hearts of the French people." Here a monument whose sides exhibit +bas-reliefs of the fable of the fox and stork, and the wolf and lamb, is +surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black marble. This is the +tomb of Lafontaine. The little Gothic chapel yonder is the tomb of +Abelard, whose effigy lies upon the sarcophagus within, and beside it is +that of Heloise. This double monument is very lovely, although the signs +of neglect and decay are plainly visible. + +The military chiefs of Napoleon's day sleep in this cemetery, and here +lie the mortal remains of St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia, +of the great painter, David, of Pradier, the sculptor, the actress +Rachel, and hundreds of others with whose names we are all familiar. The +grounds are picturesque with winding paths, and cypress groves, and +wreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the loving remembrance in +which the dead are held by the living. The elevated position of Pere +Lachaise gives one a fine view of the city. The grounds when first laid +out in 1804, covered upward of forty acres; they now extend over more +than two hundred acres, and it is said that $25,000,000 have been +expended in monuments since this cemetery was opened. + + + + +Antwerp and the City of Windmills. + + + + +_Antwerp and the City of Windmills._ + + From Paris to Antwerp--Along the Route--Thrifty Farmers--Antwerp--Dogs + in Harness--The River--Old Churches--Chimes--An Inappreciative + Listener--Steen Museum--Instruments of Torture--Lace Industry--Living + Expenses--Hospitality--The City of Windmills--Watery Highways--A City + of Canals--The Maas River--The Houses on the Canals--Travel by + Boats--Novel Scenes--Costly Headgear--Dutch Costumes--Powerful Draught + Horses--No Bonbons--Chocolate Candy--In the Market-Place--The Belle of + the Market--Photographs--Wooden Shoes--Drawbridges--Blowing the + Horn--Ancient Relics--The Sword of Columbus. + + +The country between Paris and Antwerp is delightful, and very different +from the lovely landscapes of England. Farms, towns, villages, all +present a novel aspect, and the people speak a language very strange to +our ears. The great fields along the road are not fenced in but are only +distinguished from one another by the difference in the appearance of +the crops. In England, as I have said, there are beautiful hedges +everywhere separating the fields and meadows. + +Here are strong men and women working side by side in the fields. Here +are buxom country lasses, rope in hand, one end of which is attached to +the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle. These are glowing pictures, +and the clean farmhouses, fields and roads are abundant evidences of the +industry and thrift of the people. + +Antwerp may well be termed a city of charms and fascinations. It is the +most attractive and interesting town in Belgium, and at the same time +one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Our first impression of this +place is of clean orderly streets, paved with the square Belgian blocks +which endure so well the wear and tear of constant travel. The houses +and shops are of a quaint, ancient style of architecture, and very +picturesque effect. During the middle ages, Antwerp was a very +important, as well as wealthy city, and its splendid docks, its +wonderful cathedral, its magnificent paintings all testify that a period +of exceptional prosperity has been granted to it in the past. + +A strange sight are the heavy freight wagons, with their broad wheels +and various loads, drawn by large powerful dogs. In many cases the dogs, +of which there are sometimes two or three, are strapped under the body +of the wagon by a kind of leather harness, or, if the owner be too poor, +rope is substituted. A man or woman assists in drawing the load, which +is frequently so massive as to appear disproportioned to the combined +strength of man and beast. The dogs are bred and trained for their +peculiar vocation, and are never allowed to shirk their part of the +burden imposed upon them. Should they attempt to do so, they are quickly +recalled to their duty by a small whip, hence the maximum result may be +obtained from their labor. Their muscular limbs show plainly that they +possess great strength and endurance. Large powerful draught horses with +well defined muscles are also used. These horses must weigh fully from +twelve to sixteen hundred pounds, and when four or six are harnessed +abreast, tons of merchandise may be moved in one load. Antwerp, a city +of about 260,000 inhabitants, is one of the greatest seaports of Europe, +having splendid facilities for ships of every size, and huge warehouses +for the landing and storage of immense quantities of merchandise. It is +finely situated on the Schelde, which is at this point one third of a +mile wide and thirty feet deep, and serves as an outlet for the commerce +of Germany as well as Belgium. The town was founded in the seventh +century, and has passed through many vicissitudes, attaining the summit +of its glory under the Emperor Charles V., about the close of the +fifteenth century. At that period it is said that thousands of vessels +lay in the Schelde at one time, and a hundred or more arrived and +departed daily. Its decline began under the Spanish rule, when the +terrors of the Inquisition banished thousands of its most valuable +citizens, who sought refuge in other countries, especially in England, +where they established silk factories, and assisted greatly in +stimulating the commerce of the country. After scenes of war and +frightful devastation, varied by brief seasons of prosperity, the tide +of success once more returned to the old harbors about 1863, and since +then its commerce has increased in a greater ratio than that of any +other European city. The Flemish population predominates, and its +characteristics are those of a German town. + +We enjoy many lovely views along the river frontage, where dozens upon +dozens of ships lining the banks, offer a variety of pictures to the +lover of water scenes, besides the fine prospect of the town from the +river. + +[Illustration: "The largest and handsomest Gothic church in the +Netherlands." (_See page 107._)] + +That the Cathedral is the first attraction for the tourist goes without +saying, and those are well repaid who climb far up into its magnificent +spire, even beyond the great group of bells that captivate the soul with +their wonderful sweetness and melody. At a height of four hundred feet, +the vast prospect spread out before one is indescribably beautiful. +This Cathedral, the largest and handsomest Gothic church in the +Netherlands, was begun in 1352, but was not completed until about 1616. +The chimes consist of ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is only +fifteen inches in circumference, while the largest weighs eight tons. +The chimes are rung every fifteen minutes, a musical reminder that the +soul of man, no matter what his occupation, should be elevated by +continual aspiration toward the living God. Oh, these beautiful chimes! +What wondrous harmony they peal forth, and what a multitude of loving +thoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very gates of heaven! + +A stranger in the town, and a traveller, made the remark to me that +these bells must be very annoying, ringing at such short intervals, and +especially at night. "It is worse than a swarm of mosquitoes," he said, +"for one can escape the attentions of these insects by placing a net +over his couch, but the piercing sounds of these monstrous bells +penetrate one like the chill of zero weather." This reminded me of a man +who shared our compartment in one of the French railway cars, who +interrupted my enthusiastic remarks on Westminster Abbey, its exquisite +associations, and the sacred atmosphere which impressed all who came +within its hallowed walls, by an eager question regarding the luncheon +to be served an hour later. + +The interior of the Cathedral impresses one with its grand simplicity, +and the long vistas of its six aisles present a fine effect. Here is +Rubens' famous masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross, and his earlier +painting, the Elevation of the Cross, both magnificent works, remarkable +for the easy and natural attitudes of the figures. The high altarpiece +is an Assumption by Rubens, in which the Virgin is pictured in the +clouds surrounded by a heavenly choir, with the apostles and other +figures below. + +There are many other paintings here; also stained glass windows, both +ancient and modern. The tower is an open structure of beautiful and +elaborate design, from which lovely views may be seen during the journey +to its summit. + +Another interesting landmark is the "Steen" originally forming part of +the Castle of Antwerp, but in 1549 Charles V. made it over to the +burghers of Antwerp. It was afterward the seat of the Spanish +Inquisition. It is now occupied by the Museum van Oudheden, a collection +of ancient and curious relics from the Roman times till the eighteenth +century. Within this building one may view the identical instruments of +torture so mercilessly used by the Spanish inquisitors in the name of +religion. It would not be difficult to photograph these diabolical +inventions, for many of them are quite free from the surrounding +objects, and not encased. In this collection we see also specimens of +antique furniture, and a variety of ornaments, coins, costumes, tapestry +curtains, ancient prints and engravings, and many other objects well +worthy of observation. + +In Antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing some exquisite laces and +embroideries. A visit to one of the many establishments here cannot fail +to interest the stranger. At one of the shops we are conducted to a room +in which a dozen girls are at work upon a delicate piece of lace. They +have been engaged upon this masterpiece for about three months, and the +proprietor tells us that as much more time will be required to finish +it. The design is a huge web, in the centre of which is the sly spider +apparently watching the victims who have strayed beyond the line of +safety. A number of handsome and rare specimens of this valuable +handwork are exhibited in the shop window, and one's desire to possess +them may be satisfied by a moderate expenditure of money. + + +Antwerp is the city of Rubens. We find his tomb in the beautiful church +of St. Jacques, rich in carvings and noble paintings, not far from the +fine altarpiece painted by his hand. He lies in the Rubens Chapel, and +here too are monuments of two of his descendants. The house in which the +illustrious artist died stands in a street named for him, and in the +Place Verte, formerly the churchyard of the Cathedral, stands a bronze +statue of Rubens, thirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet +high. At the feet of the master lie scrolls and books, also brushes, +palette and hat; allusions to the talented diplomatist and statesman, as +well as to the painter. + +One need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in this charming old town, +for comfortable accommodations and good board may be enjoyed at less +than moderate rates. I love this dear city, not only for its magnificent +Cathedral, its rare paintings, its picturesque surroundings; but also +for the remarkable hospitality of its people, their genial manner, their +smiling faces. Their candor and honesty win the admiration and the heart +of the tourist, and the stranger is quickly at home, and able to enjoy +most fully the many attractions which the place affords. + +[Illustration: "The place is intersected everywhere by canals." (_See +page 113._)] + +But the time has come to bid it adieu; we take the train and in two +hours find ourselves in the ever quaint and picturesque town of +Rotterdam, fitly named the "City of Windmills." + +Comfortable quarters may be found here at the Maas Hotel. Rotterdam, +whose population is something over two hundred thousand, is the second +city in commercial importance in Holland. Among its numerous attractions +are art galleries, parks, gardens, the markets, bridges and canals, +without mentioning the many windmills which wave their arms in blessing +over the city. The place is intersected everywhere by canals, all deep +enough for the passage of heavily laden ships, and with such names as +the Oude Haven, Scheepmakershaven, Leuvehaven, Nieuwe Haven, Wynhaven, +Blaak, and Haringvliet. + +Our hotel is situated upon the bank of the Maas River, and our windows +overlook this body of water, which is in reality a highway. Instead of +wagons drawn by strong muscular horses, however, barges, schooners, sail +boats, and every kind of small craft, overflowing with fruits, +vegetables and other produce, traverse the river as well as the canals. +Looking over these watery roads, the mind is confused by the hundreds of +boats which seem inextricably mingled in one great mass, and appear to +form a blockade as far as the eye can reach. Rotterdam might fitly add +to its title of "City of Windmills," that of the "City of Canals." +Houses, stores and other buildings are built directly upon the banks, +and in fact, the foundations of these form the sides of the canals. In +many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water, and passages +are made beneath, by means of which produce, freight and other articles +are conveyed to and from the buildings by boats, much as the wagons +deliver goods in our cities from the streets to the houses. + +All these novel sights impress the visitor with the great difference +between the manners and customs of this nation and our own; the result +of the peculiar environment of the two countries. A stroll about the +city affords abundant opportunity for interesting observations. Here one +sees hundreds of Dutch women in their costly headgear of gold and +silver, heirlooms of many generations. These head ornaments sometimes +cover the entire scalp, and have curious filigree additions extending +over the ears and temples. The head is first covered with a scrupulously +clean and beautiful lace cap, upon which the gold or silver ornament is +placed. These heirlooms are valued beyond all price, and I have handled +some which are two hundred years old, and which are held as sacred +charges to be transmitted to posterity. + +As we traverse the streets of this quaint city, we feel indeed that +fashion has stood still here for many years. The custom is universal +throughout Holland for the natives of the different provinces, as +Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in public, and especially when +travelling, the costume peculiar to their own province, and it is by no +means uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed women in close +proximity to one another, each one representing by some peculiarity, a +different province or section of the country. For instance; when I see +the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds, and worn with a jacket of +striped red and white, and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white +tape, I know that the wearer is a native of the island of Marken. These +various costumes, all gay and picturesque, are the source of great +pleasure to the stranger, and add new life and interest to his travels +in this country. + +Here also we notice the huge, powerful draught horses, with their +massive hoofs and shaggy legs, drawing strange looking wagons laden with +curious boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn by the working +classes also attract our attention and many other novel sights and +customs give us the impression that we have chartered one of Jules +Verne's original conveyances and wandered off to a country not located +on this earthly planet. + +Wishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a candy shop and ask the fair +maid behind the counter to put up a pound of this confection: our +amazement is great when she replies that this form of sweetmeat is not +to be found in Rotterdam. "What," I exclaim, "no sweets for the sweet +girls of Holland?" "No, only chocolate candy." And this indeed is the +only kind of bonbon to be had in Rotterdam. The sweet chocolate is +moulded into various shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity and +flavor that which is made in any other part of the world. + +[Illustration: "In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the +water." (_See page 114._)] + +Our guide is very attentive and energetic; and anxious to show us +everything of interest about the town, he conducts us through the +numerous market-places. At one of these some amusement is excited by my +photographs and sketches of the market people and the buyers. The market +man stands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured face that seems +to say that the cares and worries of this world affect him not at +all. The whole scene is like some vividly colored picture, and I think +as I look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of which we of +the outside world know nothing. Apparently the people of this country +possess the rare blessing of contentment with the lot which God has +bestowed upon them. + +An old man and woman are particularly anxious for me to photograph their +daughter, who they assure me is the belle of the market. This assertion, +I think, may be true without much compliment to the girl, for a homelier +set of human beings it would not be easy to find. After some +preliminaries relating to posing and keeping back the curious country +people who crowd closely around me and the camera, I finally succeed in +making a good picture of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her +father and mother on either side. They are all as proud as Punch of this +performance, and seem quite "set up" by the occasion. + +One day being near to a manufacturer of the wooden shoes worn by the +peasants, our party of four slips within the shop, and are fitted after +trying on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent delight of Meinherr. +It is necessary to wear a heavy woollen stocking to secure comfort in +these shoes. The ordinary American stocking would soon be rubbed into +holes by the hard surface of the shoe. Indeed it is quite a feat to be +able to walk rapidly and gracefully in this clumsy footwear. + +Over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges are built, which +are opened at intervals to allow the streams of boats to pass. The +incessant blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the tally-ho +notifies the watchman of the approach of boats. This sound may be heard +at all hours of the day or night in any part of the city, and is at +first, especially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger, but like +other annoyances which are inevitable, the exercise of a little patience +and endurance will enable one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to +become as deaf to them as old "Dame Eleanor Spearing." + +I know of no place in which the lover of the antique, whether he is a +collector of ancient coins, jewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after +rare curios and relics, can experience greater delight than in this old +city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of shops, whose proprietors devote +their whole lives to the accumulation of such objects, and it is +needless to say that their stock is rich and unique, and possesses +abundant variety. We visit a number of these establishments, and I +succeed in gathering up a large assortment of old swords which please my +fancy. One of these is said to have been owned by Christopher +Columbus(?). The shopkeeper vouches for the truth of the statement, and +as I am willing to believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary, +I label it as the sword of the great navigator who added a new +hemisphere to our globe. The remaining swords have been the personal +property of lords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and again I +take comfort in the thought that if the records are not truthful, it is +a minor consideration when taking into account the moderate prices which +I have paid for the articles. + +The artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of material both for figure +subjects, and odd and picturesque bits of landscape. Here too are +wonderful interiors, with all the quaint associations of a bygone age. +Here are scenes on the canals, the bridges, and the ever changing life +on the river. By all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original +studies for your sketch book. + +[Illustration: "The belle of the Market." (_See page 119._)] + + + + +A City of Many Islands. + + + + +_A City of Many Islands._ + + Amsterdam--The People of Holland---Amstel River--Merry + Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the City--Source of + Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety Islands--Beams and + Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street + Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient + Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The Great + Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The + Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music in + Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an Artist--Hospitality--A + Banquet. + + +Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Holland, is but a short ride from +Rotterdam, and like all the other "dam" cities of this region, possesses +many attractions of its own, besides being the centre or hub from which +radiate trips to many picturesque towns and other points of interest. + +These irreverent sounding terminations do not by any means imply that +the cities so called are steeped in wickedness and crime. On the +contrary they are remarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and +honesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools which bear witness +to the good and loving aspirations of a conscientious Christian people. + +The natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in disposition, and fair +in their dealings with one another. They are personally very attractive +on account of the natural simplicity of their everyday lives, and the +high principle of honor and morality upon which they conduct their +business transactions. They train their children in accordance with +these principles, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate their +virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that he will receive fair +and courteous treatment from both young and old. + +The Amstel River, viewed from the windows of our hotel, presents a +beautiful picture. Upon the opposite bank are handsome residences, of +substantial, square and regular architecture, while in slow, calm motion +on the river may be seen boats of every description, many of them with a +cargo of human beings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant +bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance as the boats +steam or row past our hotel. Merry songs and happy laughter drift back +to our ears, and it seems as though we have at last reached a land +exempt from the cares and sorrows of the everyday world. + +The Dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied, with a cheerful +manner, and a cordial and genuine welcome. + +Amsterdam is indeed a great city, with numberless points of interest for +the visitor, without mentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres, +libraries, churches and other institutions; its botanical garden, +university, parks and tramways. + +The town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of Amstel, who built a +castle here in 1204, and constructed the dam to which it owes its name. +In the fourteenth century it began to increase in importance, becoming +at that time a refuge for the merchants who were banished from Brabant. +At the close of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was ruined by the +Spanish war, and many merchants, manufacturers, artists and other men of +talent and enterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to +Holland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population, and the conclusion of +peace in 1609, and the establishment of the East India Company combined +to raise the town within a short time to the rank of the greatest +commercial city in Europe. Its population in 1890, excluding the +suburbs, was 406,300. + +Amsterdam is generally at first sight compared with Venice, which it +certainly resembles in two points. Both cities are intersected by +numerous canals, and the buildings of both are constructed upon piles; +but there the similarity ends. There are wide, bustling thoroughfares in +Amsterdam, traversed by wagons and drays which could have no place in +the city of gondolas and ancient palaces. + +[Illustration: "The Amstel River." (_See page 128._)] + +The canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amsterdam in every direction, +are of various sizes, and divide the city into ninety islands; and these +are connected by nearly three hundred bridges. There are four principal, +or grand canals, which are in broad, handsome avenues, bordered with +trees, and with sidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals intersect +these and serve to connect one part of the town with another, as short +streets cross wide highways and main thoroughfares in other places. Rows +of fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses, and as all +the buildings are constructed on foundations of piles, the old quotation +of "a city whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like rooks," is +not without considerable truth. The quaint old architecture of the +stores and houses is of itself a source of great interest to the +visitor. We have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and tiled +roofs overhanging the windows, that at first one has the impression of +awakening from a dream to its reality. Remarkable order and +cleanliness prevail everywhere, adding to this feeling, for the wear and +tear of daily living do not seem to affect the almost immaculate +atmosphere of the place. Windows are as clear as crystal, and the +woodwork of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly scrubbed and +sanded. Projecting from the attic windows of many buildings may be seen +a pole or beam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to hoist +furniture and other heavy or bulky articles from the sidewalk to the +upper stories. These things are not carried up the winding stairway, as +with us, scratching and defacing the walls and paint, as well as the +furniture, and resulting in much vexation and the utterance of unseemly +swear words. All this is avoided by the methods of the people of +Holland, and the citizens of America would profit by adopting them, if +only as a means of avoiding the temptation to express one's feelings in +violent and irreligious language. + +Among the thousand and one attractions of this interesting city, the +curious-looking old junks, or salesmen and women stationed at various +points on the streets, are not unworthy the notice of the photographer +or artist. Their wares consist of old scrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps +toothless, hammers without handles, nails of every size, files, beds +and other articles of furniture apparently dating back to scriptural +ages. Such markets, where odds and ends of every imaginable kind are +gathered into piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people, seem +to be sanctioned by the authorities, and sometimes present a very active +and thriving appearance. They are not unpicturesque in their odd +combinations of color, attitude and expression. + +The great windmills along the canal, with their huge revolving arms, and +the boats with their loads of merchandise; the peasant women with their +quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses; the tall Dutch +houses with their red and yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and +gables, the beautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten, the vast +docks, with forests of masts, and countless ships from all parts of the +world, and products of every country, the wonderful dikes, all form a +succession of views of charming variety and individual beauty that are +fascinating to the newcomer. + +Many short trips may be taken from here either by boat or train, and he +who would fill his portfolio with quaint and lovely pictures, will find +his enthusiasm aroused, no matter in which direction he may venture, or +whether his expedition be on land or water. Interesting localities are +always within easy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation and +accommodation render all points accessible to the traveller whose purse +is of the most slender dimensions. + +Take with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort. Proceeding to the +Central Railroad Station, we purchase tickets which entitle us to the +short ride in the usual compartment car. And here one may note the +difference between railroad travel throughout England and on the +Continent, and the American system. Instead of having one car into which +passengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and poor, merchants and +emigrants crowd as in free America, European trains are divided into +three sections, viz: first, second and third class. Although the more +general experience is that the second class compartments are quite as +comfortable, clean and attractive as the first class compartments, the +price of the latter is nearly double that of the former, and the fare of +the second class nearly double that of the third. In many sections of +England, Scotland and Germany, the third class accommodations are by no +means unpleasant: but do not take third class tickets when travelling in +Ireland, for should you do so, it is more than probable that just as you +are waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic and beautiful +scenery around you, Paddy with his wife and progeny, several pigs, and +whatever other small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently +dragged along, will be planted by your side, or roam about you in such +unpleasant proximity as to change all your romantic visions into the +most unromantic prose. + +Here we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem, famous in past years for +its tulips, and now noted for its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well +as for the curious old houses of brick and stone which are the delight +of all the visitors to Holland. These lofty steeples and rows of ancient +and picturesque houses have looked down upon many generations, and +witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance that have been registered on +the pages of history; for like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege +during the war for independence, and stories of the heroism of both men +and women have come down through the long centuries to tell us of +experiences of which these ancient structures, stately and silent, give +no sign. So well cared for are the old buildings, that one can readily +imagine that they will appear as they do to-day for many centuries to +come. + +How we enjoy this historic old place! The very air we breathe seems +laden with odors of the past. The flower-beds are wonderfully +attractive, with their gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole fields +of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant blooming plants in +every shade of color are to be seen here, and this town supplies many of +the largest gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne River winds +through the town, which possesses the characteristic cleanliness of the +other cities of Holland. + +While driving along the bank of the canal here, our attention is +attracted by the sound of loud, shrill cries which seem to come from the +water. "What!" I say, "do the lurking spirits of the slain thus make +themselves known to the living? Are there still lingering 'pale gliding +ghosts, with fingers dropping gore'?" Whatever it may be, dead or +living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and alighting, hasten to +the edge of the canal. Looking into the dark muddy water, I see a lad of +about twelve years, just able to keep his head above the stream, and +screaming lustily for help. A young man reaches the spot at the same +moment, and plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the boy +who is too much frightened and exhausted to give any account of himself. + +The "Groote" market is in the middle of the town, and here is to be seen +one of the finest old buildings in this part of the country. This is the +ancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and stone, and quaint and +picturesque enough to charm the soul of an artist with an irresistible +desire to carry it home upon his canvas. + +In the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk, an imposing and lofty +structure, dating back to the end of the fifteenth century, with its +tower of two hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty to the +edifice. The interior will more than repay one for the time spent in +examining it. The old walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time +and cover the scars, many of which, history tells us, are the results of +the Spanish siege. Here are odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive +benches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling alone would convince one +of the antiquity of this relic of the middle ages. The organ, +constructed in 1735, was for many years looked upon as the most powerful +in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in +existence. It contains four keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five +thousand pipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in diameter, and +thirty two feet in length. We endeavor to persuade the rector to allow +us to play upon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond flattery, +coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to the rigid rules, which decree +that recitals shall be held only on certain regular days. How we long to +hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which has uplifted the soul of +man, and bidden him look to God in his times of tribulation, or fill +this lofty dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving in days of +peace and prosperity. I think of the stories these old walls could tell +of the cruelties of the Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep +for paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one could write +interminably of these old towns with their quaint and glowing pictures. +At every turn a new and attractive scene presents itself, and we +reluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied, and proceed to +Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable resort on the coast of the Noord Zee. +At the railway stations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne water +in small glass bottles which is so popular throughout Holland, and which +is sold much as peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The +quality is excellent, and the price is so moderate that the use of this +perfume is really carried to excess by tourists, who find that it not +only refreshes one after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the +face from dust and cinders. + +We alight at a small unpretentious station, the terminus of this +railroad, and walk a short distance to the beach. The pure salt air +seems like a delightful tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping +gradually to the water which is very deep. With the white sand for a +carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting our eyes upon the lovely scene +which at every turn presents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail +boats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is enhanced by the groups +of sailors waiting for the tide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged +faces and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to the artist. + +[Illustration: "Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian." (_See +page 140._)] + +The season seems to be either early or late, for the people along the +shore are scant in number. Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large +comfortable seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the hotels and +at the water's edge, and at a trifling cost, offer rest to the weary +pedestrian, and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the +embarrassing gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering +fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with basket suspended from the +shoulder, pausing before the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with +importunities to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various other +dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments, +who charm us with their delightful melodies. Their music is superior to +that which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia. In truth, in +Holland and Germany, one rarely hears anything but good music from these +bands of itinerant players, and operatic selections of the higher class +are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries. + +A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment, and the quick +witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune +telling. We are told that they are always to be found here during the +summer season, and are quite popular among the young and the credulous, +who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future, and +the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued +southerners. Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed all the +colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect: and now I discover in +one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist, with a well covered +canvas, upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy +girl, while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background. I enter +into conversation with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam, and +is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country. She says: "If +one will but open his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every +corner of the province." And it is true. Nature has indeed been lavish +in her gifts to Holland. Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in +number, and indescribably attractive. + +The citizens of Amsterdam are most kind and hospitable. As an instance +of their cordiality I mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor by +a townsman Mr. L----, who says we must not return home without a glimpse +of the social life of the city. The banquet is held at the largest and +most popular banqueting hall (Maison Couturier), and besides our host +and his family, a few intimate friends and some young people are +present. At the appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and handsome +building, and are conducted to a beautiful apartment with most +attractive surroundings. The first floor of this hall is elegantly +furnished, and lit by electric lights. Flowers, palms, and other +tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms. After a cordial welcome from +our host, we are led to the banqueting hall, where we are dazzled by the +light and beauty around us, and delighted by the artistic effect. +Covers are laid for sixteen guests. Flowers, plants and fruits are +picturesquely arranged, and even the electric lights exhibit various +glowing designs. The feast is prepared under the direction of an +experienced chef, and here we speedily become aware that the city of +Amsterdam is not one whit behind the great centres of the world in this +line of achievement. After many toasts to Amsterdam and its people have +been responded to, the hospitalities are concluded with one to "America +and its beautiful women," and we take our departure after three hours +most delightfully spent in social intercourse with our friends. Upon +this occasion four languages, French, Dutch, German and English are +fluently spoken. + + + + +Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken. + + + + +_Excursions to Broek and the Island of Marken._ + + A Charming Journey--Fellow-Passengers--National Costumes--The + Children--A Lovely Landscape--Holstein + Cattle--Windmills--Irrigation--Farmers--A Typical Dutch + Village--Washing-Day--The Red, White and Blue--Suppose a Bull Should + Appear--A Brilliant Picture--Drawing the Canal Boat--Honesty and + Cleanliness--A Thrifty and Industrious People--Farming and + Cheese-making--As Evening Falls--Scenes for an Artist--Dead Cities of + Holland--Monnikendam--Behind the Age--City Lamps--Houses and + People--The Island of Marken--An Isolated Wonderland--First + Impressions--Rare Holidays--The Family Doctor--Absence of the Men--The + Fishing--Healthy and Industrious population--The Women of + Marken--Pretty Girls--They Will not be Taken--A Valuable + Experience--Photographs. + + +A beautiful trip is that to Broek. We take the small steamer that lies +in the river a short distance from our hotel, the Amstel, and after a +sail of three-quarters of an hour, are landed at an insignificant +station on the opposite shore. Here a little car with bare wooden seats +running lengthwise, and a queer looking engine waits for passengers from +the boat. And now we ride through a picturesque farming country, passing +numerous small stations. This road terminates at Edam, but we do not go +that far. Our fellow-passengers are most interesting. Many of the women +wear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroidered caps which are so +quaint and becoming, and all wear the customary wooden shoes. + +The men have rugged brown faces, and sinewy arms: some of them wear the +heavy wooden shoes, others slippers, while a number are barefooted. How +they all stare at us, and it is just as impossible for us to withdraw +our eyes from them. We are novel sights to each other. I wonder what +they think of our appearance. Their faces are impassive, but ours must +surely express wonder, admiration and a strong desire on the part of one +at least, to capture these studies in color and figure that surround us +on every side. + +The children, with their rosy cheeks and round healthy forms, seem merry +and happy, although none of them are sociable or talkative with us. They +look at us in amazement. This is a delightful ride over a smooth velvety +road, with rich pasture land on either side. Now we pass great dikes +which hold back the waters from these fertile fields; and now short +canals with their little boats, on which perhaps the Dutch vrow in her +snowy cap and gold head-dress is seated beside her husband who smokes +his pipe with a meditative air. The flat landscape is varied by +innumerable herds of cattle, principally of Holstein breed, with the +great white bands encircling the bodies, which reminds me of the story +of the Yankee who used this band for a foundation upon which to paint +his sign: "The finest milk and cream in the world within. Price two +cents per quart." + +[Illustration: "The flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle." (_See +page 153._)] + +Hundreds of windmills may be seen with their long wings gracefully +moving at the touch of a gentle breeze, in perfect harmony with the +surrounding landscape. These mills have been used for many centuries in +Holland, which is their mother country, and serve for draining the land, +or for manufacturing purposes. They are placed upon a substantial +foundation of brick or stone, and their enormous sails describe a circle +of over a hundred feet in diameter: some run saws that cut through logs +of great thickness, while others are huge grain mills. The smaller +windmills are made of wood like those seen in some portions of our own +country. The system of irrigation by means of windmills is very complete +in Holland, thus it is that we see everywhere such beautiful fertile +fields. Many of the farms in this locality employ three or four, and +even more windmills for this purpose. + +We see many farmers, with their wives and children, working in the +fields, and they all stop for an instant as our train passes, to shout a +merry greeting. Here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes along the road. +Flocks of sheep stand in the shadow of the trees, and armies of quacking +ducks emerge from a marshy pool and spread themselves across the green. + +The average speed of our antediluvian express is from five to seven +miles an hour, but it is perfectly satisfactory to these deliberate +people; and as to ourselves, we are enjoying everything too much to wish +it shortened by one minute. We arrive, however, at Broek, which is +celebrated as one of the cleanest towns in the world. It contains about +sixteen hundred inhabitants, and its narrow streets are paved with +yellow bricks which are kept scrupulously clean. The small frame houses +have tiled roofs, and with their flower gardens, present an orderly +appearance. The whole atmosphere of the place is one of primitive +simplicity. Some of the buildings are painted white, some green, and +others of a variety of hues. They all wear an indescribable air of +repose: and it is said that the front doors are not opened from the +beginning to the end of the year, except on the occasion of a wedding or +a funeral. The gardens are veritable curiosities, with their +old-fashioned flower-beds, and box-bushes cut into various fantastic +shapes, and all so diminutive that one feels as though he has fallen +upon an animated edition of the Noah's Ark of his childish days. + +[Illustration: "Most of the houses have a canal at the back." (_See page +157._)] + +Most of the houses have a canal or small stream at the back, and close +by, upon a washing-day, the garments of the family may be seen flying in +the breeze, displaying to the stranger the prevailing colors of the +community, which are red, white and blue. Red predominates, however, +since red flannel is universally worn by the middle and lower classes in +Holland. I think of the fine bull which we saw but a short time ago, +grazing so peacefully in the meadow, and wonder what effect this +exposure of tantalizing color would have upon his equanimity. Should he +be let loose among the back gardens of Broek upon a washing-day, the +order of this immaculate village would certainly receive a shock. For +once in the history of the place, things would be topsy-turvy, and the +excitement would doubtless surpass anything previously seen in this +peaceful town. + +What beautiful and picturesque combinations are here! The varying shades +of green and blue, mingled with harmonious tints of yellow, produce a +scene for the impressionist, while the effect is enhanced by the +streams and canals which wind in and out with many a turn and twist, +apparently for the sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this +quaint and unique locality. + +Occasionally we see a canal boat of larger size drawn by a buxom Dutch +maiden and her brother; or not infrequently it is the old man and his +wife, and sometimes the entire family all strenuously tugging the stout +rope which is securely fastened to the bow of the boat, while the +dilapidated old craft, laden with merchandise or produce creaks slowly +on its way, breaking the placid surface of the water with a soft musical +plash. + +Honesty and truthfulness are unmistakably impressed upon the faces of +all whom we meet in this section. The people hereabouts do not possess +the shrewd business capacity of our Wall Street brokers, but they are +mild and pleasant, with a wholesome appearance of health and good +appetite. They are individually as clean and orderly as is their +village. Water is as cheap here as in America, but in this place there +seems to be an extravagance in the use of it which far exceeds that of +the same class in our country. + +There are no beggars or idlers here. The people are so thrifty and +industrious that no portion of the day is wasted. Every one seems to +have an appointed task, even the small children, whom we see feeding the +ducks and pigs. All are engaged in some useful occupation. + +Farming and cheese-making are the principal industries, although other +branches of business, such as stock-raising, fishing, boat-making, and +the manufacture of wooden shoes, are carried on to some extent. + +Our visit to the village naturally attracts some attention, as +foreigners are rarely seen in these out of the way corners. + +As evening steals upon us, the scene grows indescribably lovely, for the +sun in his descent illumines the whole landscape with vivid gleams of +many colors. The blue stream which finds its outlet in the larger river, +changes its sombre hue to one of dazzling gold, which throws out rich +reflections of clouds and foliage. A fairy-like transformation seems to +have taken place in the streets and houses; and, as we leave the village +and the shades of night fall about us, my thoughts are with the artist, +the photographer, the impressionist, who would feel the most exquisite +delight in such an opportunity; for he who could do justice to this +landscape either with brush or camera, would produce a picture worthy +of place among the noblest works of art. + +We have heard so much of the "Dead cities of Holland," and especially of +the secluded life on the island of Marken, that we determine to see for +ourselves what this term really signifies. On our way thither, we pass +through the old town of Monnikendam, in which we behold many strange and +curious sights. People and buildings impress us with the idea that +"Father Time" has forgotten this place altogether in his rounds of +cutting down and making place for newcomers. The ancient and picturesque +houses look as though coeval with Time himself; but in truth they are +only mediaeval; it is the people who have stood still. The present age +has no place in their lives. + +The population of the town numbers about twenty-three hundred, and this +is largely made up of children, judging from the appearance of the +streets. The main street is wide and attractive, but the side streets +are narrow, and all are paved with hard bricks placed edgewise. At night +the town is lighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts: coal is generally +used for fuel, but some of the residents use gasoline, which also serves +for light. The houses are primitive in construction, and the people +seem odd and inquisitive, but simple and economical in dress and +habit. As we expect to return in a short time, we direct our course +without delay to the Island of Marken. + +[Illustration: "The blue stream finds its outlet in the river." (_See +page 159._)] + +A good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the Zuyder Zee, beside the banks of +Monnikendam. The captain is a full-blooded "Markenite," born and bred on +the island. Having made arrangements with him, we go on board and are +soon on our way to the strange city: our hearts beat more quickly, and +all eyes are eagerly strained toward it, when the distant island appears +in the direction of our yacht's bow. After an hour's sail, we come to +anchor in the harbor of this secluded wonderland. As we approach the +town, the view from our boat seems to justify the title which has been +given to it of "the Dead City." It lies away from everything and +everybody, and save the deep sea which surrounds it, and which supplies +its inhabitants with food, the island of Marken has for centuries known +no association outside its own boundaries. + +No news is carried to or from this isolated region. At rare intervals an +islander, by temperament more adventurous or enterprising than his +fellows, makes the daring undertaking of a visit to Monnikendam, or the +bolder flight to Amsterdam, although there are but few instances on +record of such a reckless proceeding as the last. The place has a +population of about thirteen hundred souls, and one may form an idea of +the health of its inhabitants from the fact that one doctor, without an +assistant, is the family physician for all the people on the island, and +we are told that calls upon his professional attention are not +sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from forming on his medicine +chest. + +The Dutch language is spoken here, and it is so rare to find any one who +understands English, that it is necessary to bring an interpreter as +well as guide in visiting this secluded spot. The inhabitants look upon +us as though we have dropped from the clouds, or sprung suddenly out of +the earth. It is unfortunate that we have come here on Monday, for on +this day the men of the island go off in their fishing boats, and do not +return till Saturday night. Only the old and crippled are left with the +women and children. Sunday is the one day in the week which the men may +spend with their wives and sweethearts. Fishing is the sole means of +subsistence here. The native inhabitants are industrious and economical, +but of a low type of intellect, rarely if ever displaying interest in +literary attainments. Health and good appetites seem to be their +chief characteristics, and a more law-abiding, innocent and virtuous +people it would be difficult to find. The women are large, muscular and +well shaped, and appear fully able to protect and care for their +households in the absence of the men. + +[Illustration: "All persuasions accomplish naught." (_See page 168._)] + +I am quite anxious to capture, by camera, not by force of arms, some of +these rare types of strength and beauty, and observing two pretty young +girls standing in the doorway of one of the houses, both perfect +specimens of physical health, I think this an opportunity not to be +neglected. What a fine picture they present with their erect forms, +their firm round arms, rosy cheeks and bright eyes! They are well +proportioned, and looking at their smiling faces one can readily +understand that a physician in a locality whose residents are +represented by such glowing life as that which is now before me, may +easily find time to be absent from his duties a year or two. + +Fired with enthusiasm, I approach the girls who are talking to a couple +of old women, and am about to make a "snap shot" of the group, when +suddenly perceiving my intention, they fly into the house like +frightened deer, to the amusement of the old women, and the grief of the +writer. Determined not to be outdone, for now this picture beyond all +others is the desire of my heart, I enter the house and learn that the +young damsels have sought refuge in the loft, and are hiding, ostrich +like, with their heads buried in a mass of clothing. All my persuasions, +aided by those of the older women, accomplish nought, even the liberal +offer of silver guilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate maids, +and I am obliged to relinquish my desire. However, I have made a +valuable discovery, and that is that it is better under some +circumstances not to ask for the privilege, but to resort to strategy. I +request one or more of our party to engage the proposed subject in +conversation, while I retire to a suitable distance with my camera, +focus the group, then fire away. This plan succeeds admirably, and my +collection increases steadily and satisfactorily. + +[Illustration: "One old woman is fascinated with the camera." (_See page +171._)] + +However, upon better acquaintance with the townspeople and the repeated +assurances of our skipper, who speaks some English, that our purpose is +an innocent one, we are allowed to photograph the whole town freely, and +all its valuable possessions. Occasionally a guilder slipped quietly +into the hand of one of the older women opens a new vein of good +fortune, for they insist that "the gentleman shall be allowed to take +the picture;" whether it be an old-fashioned interior with its quaint +belongings, or a pretty maid too shy to hold her head up properly. One +old woman is so fascinated with the camera that she asks me to take +picture after picture of her homely wrinkled countenance. At first I do +so to her extreme delight, but finally I only pretend to take her +picture, and the last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles are all +wasted upon an unimpressionable plate. + + + + +The Ancient Town of Monnikendam. + +[Illustration: "We walk along the narrow streets." (_See page 177._)] + + + + +_The Ancient Town of Monnikendam._ + + Marken Homes--Beds in the Wall--Family Heirlooms--An Ancient + Clock--Precious Treasures--Quaint Customs--Betrothed Couples--The + Hotel--Its Interior--A Lack of Patrons--Costumes of a By-gone + Age--Farewell to Marken--Remote Districts--Monnikendam--Ancient + Houses--Hotel de Posthoorn--The Postman of the Past--A Difficult + Stairway--We Stroll about the Town--Our Retinue--In Front of the + Hotel--Such Curious Children--Supper--We Visit the Shops--Pantomime--A + Novel Experience--They Cannot Understand--No Candles--We Attract a + Crowd--The Clothing Store--A Marken Suit--"Too High"--Bargaining--A + Stranger to the Rescue. + + +We walk along the narrow streets, some of which are paved with little +footways, and now and then visit one of the whitewashed frame houses +with their red tiled roofs. These houses are built after one pattern, +and resemble each other so closely in their crude architecture, that a +stranger might easily make a mistake, and enter the wrong door, without +having previously taken anything stronger than a glass of water. The +interior consists of four small rooms, which are kept scrupulously clean +and orderly. One of these is used as a living-room, and one as +dining-room and kitchen. The beds of the family are simply close, dark +recesses in the wall, in which there are bunks or shelves, and on these +the mattresses and bed clothing are placed, the occupants mounting by +means of wooden steps to this ill-ventilated and most uninviting +resting-place. We shudder as we glance into these dismal closets, and +feel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping in one of them. + +In every house there seems to be reserved a special apartment, as a +storage-place for the family heirlooms, and here are preserved articles +which have been handed down from generation to generation for centuries. +Dolls of various primitive shapes, broken and torn, with black, dusty +clothing; clocks long since arrested in their career by age or accident; +chairs of rude manufacture, with perhaps a broken leg or back; watches +and jewelry of ancient design; odd furniture and pieces of china, +besides other relics which would be useful only in an exhibition of the +antique. All these things are sacred in the eyes of their owners, who +would as soon think of parting with one of their children as of allowing +one of these treasures to pass out of the family. + +At one of the houses I see stored among the heirlooms a clock, which +the owner informs me has been in the family for two hundred and fifty +years. I do not doubt the assertion, for it looks as though the dust of +a _thousand_ years has silently but steadily accumulated upon its +venerable face. I am about with my handkerchief to brush off some of +this precious dust, in order to see the wood and brass in their peculiar +coloring and design, but am quietly stopped by the hand of my host. + +There is a noticeable rivalry between the different families in regard +to these treasures which are placed carefully away, as if too sacred for +the light of day, and are shown to the visitor much as the guide +employed in the mint allows one to touch a piece of gold or silver in +the early process of coinage. Each family tries to outdo the others in +its collection, and in the ancient appearance of the hoard. It is +amusing to watch their faces, when exhibiting the wonders: they seem +very uneasy if the stranger offers to touch one of the pieces, as though +in terror lest it should thus lose some of those precious particles +which enhance its value. + +At another house I am allowed, as a great favor, to examine one of the +dolls, and really the anxiety shown until the owner has placed it once +more in its place in his collection is ludicrous. The most delicate +human being, or a piece of frail egg-shell china could not be more +tenderly handled. + +These people are quite as quaint in appearance as in their customs. The +old-time costume of the island is worn as in other parts of Holland, but +here there is an intensity of ancientness, if I may use the expression, +which must be seen in order to be fully appreciated. They really seem +the remnants of a dead era, and in all their ways display a want of +experience of the outside world, a lack of that perception which the men +and women of to-day seem to inhale with the very atmosphere, which is +truly astonishing. The marriage and betrothal customs are especially +peculiar. We learn that an engaged couple cannot wed until five years +have elapsed since the announcement of the betrothal; and should a death +occur in either family in the meantime, it is considered such an ill +omen that the engagement is broken off altogether: at the end of a year, +however, a new engagement may be entered into, and after a second long +period of waiting the wedding is consummated. + +[Illustration: "Sheep, grazing upon the green pasture lands, form a +homelike scene." (_See page 185._)] + +There are many rigid rules of etiquette connected with these +engagements; for instance: should the young lover, upon each meeting, +neglect to impress a kiss upon the cheek of every member of the +family of his fiancee, the contract is annulled. One can readily believe +almost any statement regarding these strange people who seem like a +peculiar race stranded upon a desert island. Still from ocular +demonstration, we feel very certain that notwithstanding these stringent +rules, there is no lack of weddings among the young people, for there is +an overwhelming number of children upon the island. + +Marken boasts of a hotel, and the owner and landlord tells us as he +stands proudly upon its stoop, that this bold enterprise issued from his +fertile brain, and that he is looking for a rich return for his venture. +I respond with as much enthusiasm as I can gather upon this occasion, +but fear he would receive but cold comfort from the true state of my +mind on the subject. The building consists of six rooms which he +pronounces quite modern. On the lower floor are a kitchen, ten feet by +ten, and a dining-room, twelve by fourteen, which also serves as a +barroom, sitting-room and smoking den, all rolled into one. Here the +guests are supposed to reach the acme of ease and comfort. A bare wooden +table and six chairs comprise the furniture of the room, and there is +nothing else visible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang at the +windows. Upstairs are three bedrooms, scantily furnished; here too the +windows are curtained. The freshness of these rooms and their +surroundings gives us the impression that they have never been occupied +since the erection of the hotel a year ago, by any one of greater +importance than the myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in lazy +groups to the walls and ceilings. My sympathy goes out to these ignorant +creatures who do not seem to have strength enough to get away, and seek +their nourishment in other quarters. + +We find tolerably comfortable accommodations here, and view things very +philosophically on account of the curious and interesting life by which +we are surrounded. The men and women in their odd costumes are rare +pictures. The clothing worn here is of a style worn hundreds of years +ago, and there is no consciousness on the part of its wearers that there +is anything unusual in its appearance. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis +folly to be wise," and it is more than probable that they will continue +to wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to come. + +Much of the washing is done in the little canal which flows through the +town, and this is easily accomplished, as linen is not worn to any great +extent, as in other places, and the coarse homespun garments are +cleansed by a very simple process. + +Sheep, grazing upon many of the green pasture lands, form a homelike, +peaceful scene which is very attractive. The air is fresh, yet balmy, +imparting tone and vigor to the sturdy natives. + +At last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon the earth's surface, +wondering if an earthquake or any other startling event will ever happen +here to rouse it from its lethargy, and compel it to take its place in +the march of the ages. If not, it will remain as of old, a boon to the +artist, an infinite source from which he may draw quaint, ideal and most +original studies of a people and an era whose counterpart has long since +vanished from our everyday world. + +In our travels in the northern portion of Holland, and away from the +larger cities, as Amsterdam and Rotterdam, which are more visited by +tourists, we find that our letters of credit extend over an astonishing +space of time, for a little money goes a long way among these people. +The regions seem to be too remote for the regular tourist, and as there +is no great influx of capital from that source, there is no inducement +for the people to change their simple and primitive mode of living, +hence honesty, frugality and contentment reign here, and the visitor +may enjoy to its full extent, the beautiful country and the pure, +innocent life of its inhabitants. + +The quaint and simple town of Monnikendam lies some fifteen or sixteen +miles north of Amsterdam, and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient +associations. Eyes, ears and brain are almost bewildered by the +exquisite strangeness of our surroundings. Here are houses with the date +of their birth inscribed over the doorways, and the odd designs of +bygone centuries still clinging to their walls. + +These ancient dates and the rich beauty of these aged tenements impress +us with a feeling of awe, and we walk softly as we pass the hallowed +ground upon which so many lives have risen, passed their little day, +then vanished to make place for the next players. Of the two hotels +which the town supports, we choose the oldest, the Hotel de Posthoorn, +which derives its name from the fact that at an early date the building +was used as a post office station. In those days the postman carried a +horn, which he blew when approaching a station, as a notice to the +townfolk to have their mail ready for collection, that he might not be +detained, as his route was long and wearisome. + +[Illustration: "Hotel de Posthoorn." (_See page 186._)] + +We are conducted to the second floor of the hotel by a steep and narrow +stairway, which requires much ingenuity in the ascent, as the steps are +constructed at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult to balance +one's self upon them. We reach the top as gracefully as possible under +the circumstances, and find two pleasant communicating rooms overlooking +the main street. Rooms, beds and all our surroundings are wonderfully +clean, and filled with an atmosphere of the past, which is very +charming. The rates charged here are seven dollars a week for each +person, and this includes meals and attendance: the latter simply a +pleasant fiction, with no meaning whatever. + +The sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen of good quality, but +emitting such an odor of antiquity, that there is no doubt whatever in +our minds that they are heirlooms of many generations, and we wish that +this genuine, ancient and unpleasant smell could be scattered abroad, or +adulterated in some way, even to the extent of a pair of modern sheets, +for concentrated age is more attractive in sights than in odors. + +Our hotel bears the date 1697 upon a fancifully carved tablet above the +middle window, but the Stadhuis Tower is still older, dating back to +1592. The proprietor, his wife and daughter are pleasant, hospitable +people, who make our stay with them, both comfortable and enjoyable. +Before supper we stroll about the town, which consists of a main or +central avenue, with small narrow streets diverging from it. As we walk +along, a little crowd, composed chiefly of children, follows us closely. +These young people stare at us, and laugh as though we are a freshly +imported menagerie. On our return, we sit in front of the hotel where +some chairs and small tables are placed for the convenience of those who +wish to rest and sip their glass of beer or genuine Holland gin in the +open. The favorite beverages in Holland are beer, porter and gin, the +latter of an excellent quality, and genuinely "old." + +We are soon surrounded by a group of children, who watch our motions and +by words and gestures freely express their wonder and amusement at the +odd-looking stranger people. They seem greatly surprised that we do not +understand their language: not even such simple phrases as "Goeden +avond," (Good-evening), or "Ja," (Yes), and "Nee," (No). When I make +them understand that in English yes and no are the same as their ja and +nee, they laugh immoderately, and repeat in their own broad accents, +yes and no, as if greatly amused. + +After supper, which consists of cold fish, coffee, cheese, boiled +potatoes and tea with a private nip of the real ancient Holland gin, we +walk out again without a guide, to do some shopping. We have a funny +experience, as we are compelled to resort to pantomime in making the +various purchases. Entering a "general" store in search of candles, we +at first ask for them in English: the good-natured shopwoman smiles and +shakes her head. I repeat the word "candles," at the same time going +through the motion of striking a match on the counter, and holding it up +to the end of my forefinger. This strange proceeding attracts the +attention of a young man and woman, who draw near the counter, followed +by several other members of the family, but I cannot make them +comprehend. We then try the French language, but this also proves a +failure, so we are obliged to depart without our candles, although I am +confident they have them somewhere in the store. + +Scene after scene of this kind is gone through with in the different +shops, and now our curious actions have attracted a large crowd of +people who follow close at our heels, wondering what we will do next, +and thinking, no doubt, that we are a very good kind of free show. Such +strange beings rarely visit their isolated town, and they are certainly +enjoying their opportunity to its full extent. When we stop to look into +a shop-window, they stop too, and follow our example like very shadows. +The expression of wonder and merriment depicted on the countenances of +both young and old is a fine study for an artist. + +As we saunter leisurely along, we espy a clothing store, which we enter, +and find half-a-dozen men lounging about with long clay pipes in their +mouths, and their hands in the pockets of their baggy trousers. Their +faces wear a peaceful, contented expression, which changes to a look of +surprise as we approach them, and they scan our attire, as something +wholly different from anything to which they are accustomed. The gaping +throng outside besieges the doorway. As the men still gaze curiously at +us, I draw near the one who appears to be the proprietor of the +establishment, and in pantomime, aided by English, interspersed with a +little French, ask for a Marken suit of clothes. The man laughs and +looks perplexed; his companions also shake their heads in token that +they do not understand. With serious countenances and widely-opened +eyes, they follow the motions of my lips and hands. Uttering slowly +the words: "Marken suit," I point to my own trousers, coat and vest. +Their eyes follow my hands, first to my trousers, then to my coat and +vest. It is a difficult position; but what a treat to watch their +puzzled countenances, now smiling, now with a look of actual pain in +their efforts to understand. + +[Illustration: "De Hooflstraat, Monnikendam." (_See page 190._)] + +At last my perseverance and their attention are rewarded, and the +storekeeper takes from a shelf a dusty bundle, and carefully unfolds it. +Within the bundle is a Marken suit: yes, the very kind I wish to +possess, an entire woman's dress. I am anxious to purchase it at any +reasonable figure. The garment is passed to us for inspection. We nod in +indication that it is just what we desire. Now for the tug of war; the +price. "Combien? Combien?" Finally thirty guilders is named as the price +set upon the dress. We motion, "Too high," and I point to the ceiling. +The six weary men all look up in the direction of my finger: they smile, +and think it is a good joke, and look at me as though saying: "What +next?" They laugh heartily at my vain endeavors. Alas! How can I make +them understand? "Fifteen guilders," I say. The proprietor seems to +understand. "Nee. Nee. Ik kan het niet doen." (No. No. I cannot do it.) + +After long deliberation, still holding the cherished suit in his hands, +he turns to his companions, and seems to ask their opinion. Several +shake their heads and utter: "Nee. Nee," others say: "Ja. Ja." One +suggests twenty-five guilders as the price; another twenty guilders. The +bargaining goes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion, when to +our relief a gentleman enters the shop who understands the language of +these people. He has learned from the outsiders that some Americans are +in the store trying to buy a suit of clothes. Through the kindness of +this stranger, matters are speedily adjusted, and the sale effected, as +he speaks both Dutch and English fluently. We purchase the complete suit +for fifteen guilders, or about six dollars in the currency of the United +States. + +These suits are rarely made for sale, but only when needed for immediate +use. The natives of the island make them for personal wear, or for each +other. Every man and woman generally owns two suits: one to wear every +day, and one for Sundays. + +As we move toward the door to take our departure, after spending +three-quarters of an hour over this transaction, we perceive that the +throng around the door has increased in numbers. What an assemblage! +And we are the curiosities. I count them, and find there are thirty men, +women and children, all full of excitement at the presence of strangers +in Monnikendam. One young girl is so shy and timid, that as we advance +toward her on our way out, she starts and runs hurriedly away, and gazes +at us from a distance of some twenty feet, as though we are dangerous +animals. + +We make several other purchases; partly because we desire the articles, +but chiefly on account of our enjoyment of this novel mode of shopping. + +[Illustration: "There is a young man whose walk is all his own." (_See +page 211._)] + + + + +Old Customs and Quaint Pictures. + +[Illustration: "The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean." +(_See page 211._)] + + + + +_Old Customs and Quaint Pictures._ + + Segars and Tobacco--Row Boats--"Goeden Morgan"--The Zuyder Zee--By + Candle Light--Total Darkness--The Town by Night--Women and + Girls--Shoes and Stockings--The Shuffling Man--Streets and + Sidewalks--The Town Crier--The Daily News--A Message to the + People--Draught Dogs--Milkmaids--The Barber Shop--Drug + Stores--"Horretje"--A Street Auction--Selling Curios--They Leave their + Shoes at the Door--An Old Grist Mill--The Holland Draught Girl. + + +In Holland, segars and tobacco of very good quality are sold at low +prices: it is not uncommon to buy two segars for one cent (United States +currency) and should you be detected smoking an article costing more +than a penny, you are immediately stamped as a wealthy and extravagant +personage. This reputation is easily acquired in a town of such thrifty +habits as Monnikendam, and here my fondness for a good smoke lays me +open to both charges. + +A row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day, if you do your own +rowing; with a man to row, the charge is forty cents. We find it +convenient to hire a man, who also serves as guide and interpreter, and +who rows us to many lovely nooks and out-of-the-way spots, which we +would otherwise miss seeing. + +The inhabitants of the town are kind and hospitable, and we are charmed +with their good, honest countenances. We are always greeted with a +pleasant "Goeden morgen," or "Goeden avond," or it may be: "Hoe staat +het leven?" (How are you?), when we pass them on the street. + +The country about here is principally farm land, with rich and abundant +pasturage. A short distance from us is the placid Zuyder Zee, with its +shining waters stretching eastward for miles. From its picturesque banks +may be seen boats of every size and kind, from the tiniest row boat to +craft of many tons' burden, and it is interesting to observe from this +point the busy life upon the water, as produce, farm implements and +merchandise are carried to and fro. + +[Illustration: "The whole place is a succession of quaint and +picturesque houses." (_See page 216._)] + +As I sit writing in my room, by the light of a homemade candle, I now +and then pause in my occupation to look around with an ever increasing +wonder, at the dark old furniture over which the light casts a ghostly +gleam. The spirit of the past seems lurking in the corners, with their +long forgotten history, and around yonder ancient cupboard and brass +trimmed chest of drawers. I can almost feel upon my shoulder the +touch of the hand which has carried this quaint old candlestick in those +olden days, and in imagination, hear the rustle of her gown as she +stands behind me waiting for her own. It is ten o'clock, and I walk to +the window and draw aside the curtain, curious to see the life that is +abroad in the town at this hour. To my astonishment there are no signs +of life of any kind. The town lies in total darkness. There is not a +glimmer of light anywhere, save the dim glow from a lantern dangling +carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who moves slowly and quietly +along the sidewalk. There is no other evidence of any living thing. Even +the frogs and crickets, which enliven a night scene at home, are not +heard here. Dead silence prevails, while + + "Night, sable goddess, from her ebon throne, + In rayless majesty now stretches forth + Her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world." + +Even the stars are slumbering, or their sparkle has been engulfed by +this all-devouring darkness. The light of my candle seems out of harmony +with the peaceful repose around me: with a half-guilty feeling I +extinguish it, and wrapping myself in sheets of Holland linen, am soon +slumbering with the rest of the world. + +In the morning, when seated at the breakfast table, my first question to +our host is as to the reason for such all-pervading darkness, and the +absence of the townspeople from the streets at night. He tells me that +it is so rare for any one to be abroad after nine o'clock in the +evening, that the street lamps, of which there are but few, are never +lighted. At ten o'clock every one is supposed to be at home and in bed. + +The women and girls of this and the neighboring towns are thrifty and +industrious. When resting after their daily labors, whether at noon or +in the evening, they will invariably take from their deep side-pockets a +ball of thread or yarn, and with the short knitting needle, or the long +ones of steel, continue their work on an unfinished stocking, cap or +other article of wearing apparel. + +The prevailing foot-covering for men, women and children is a heavy +woolen stocking; this fits the foot snugly, and protects it from the +hardness of the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called. These shoes +are carved from a single block of wood: when they are worn and shabby +they are painted black, and a strap is placed across the instep. They +are of all sizes, but only one style or pattern. In the larger cities, +however, such as Rotterdam, one can obtain from the manufacturers a +painted wooden shoe, with buttons and stitches carved upon it as +ornaments. But this variation is found only in men's shoes. In Holland +the ordinary American slipper is frequently worn by both men and women. + +The clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an unpleasant sound, +especially when several persons are walking together, but the ear soon +becomes accustomed to it, as to all other odd noises. There is a young +man in this place, who walks with a peculiar shuffle, all his own. He is +so strange looking altogether that I snap my camera on him one day as he +innocently passes by me. The peculiar sound of his walk has taught me to +know that he is coming long before his figure is visible. I sometimes +feel like telling him in the words of Byron, that + + "He has no singing education, + An ignorant, noteless, timeless, tuneless fellow." + +The streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean, as the women of +each household scrub not only their sidewalks, but half-way across the +street in front of their dwellings. One may thus imagine what a charming +and inviting place this is for the pedestrian. + +In this peaceful town where the golden rule is not simply a precept to +frame and hang upon the wall, it is not necessary to employ officials +with such high sounding but meaningless titles as "Street Commissioner," +"Director of the Highways," etc., etc. No, here each individual +possesses sufficient honor and self-respect to accomplish his own share +of municipal work, to the benefit and comfort of the whole community. + +There is one very ancient custom still existing here which interests and +entertains us greatly. This is the old fashion of employing a town +crier, who after beating a brass disk which is suspended by a cord from +his shoulder, calls out in a loud, clear voice, the news of the day, +events in foreign lands, transfers of property, sales and auctions which +have already taken place or are to occur in the near future, lost and +found articles and the like. For instance: he walks a distance of a +block or two, then stops in the middle of the street, beats the brass +disk vigorously with a small striker, and casting his head heavenward, +utters the phrases which have been prepared and given to him in +stereotyped tones. Thus the town receives its news, and the crier keeps +those who never stir from their homes as well as the business men of the +city informed of the most prominent events of their own and other +countries. What better method could be employed in the absence of +newspapers? The community is kept in touch with the outside world and +with its own members by means of this odd and ancient custom. + +[Illustration: "A street auction." (_See page 220._)] + +I have the pleasure of a personal association with the crier. Our party +is so much annoyed by the continual staring of the people, who seem +unable to become accustomed to our appearance in the town, and who +follow us constantly day and evening when we walk upon the streets, that +I decide to try some means to stop it. The proprietor of the hotel, at +my request, adds another sentence to the daily bulletin; it runs as +follows: "The three Americans now stopping at the Posthoorn Hotel must +not be annoyed by the good people of this town. It is not good manners +to stare at them and follow them, and it is unpleasant to these +strangers." + +The day following my request, I listen anxiously for the voice of the +crier, and his appearance in our neighborhood. Here he comes; and the +message is rolled forth in sonorous tones. I seek the landlord and ask +him if the notice is to be circulated throughout the town; and he +replies in the affirmative. In justice to the inhabitants, I must state +that they heed the request, and hereafter go on their way without undue +excitement or comment when we appear among them; much to our own comfort +and enjoyment. + +Few horses are seen upon these streets: wagons are drawn by two, three, +or four huge draught dogs, trained for this purpose. Men are also +frequently harnessed to wagons, as well as women, and sometimes a woman +and dog will appear together drawing a load of merchandise. + +Milk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry on their shoulders a +strong wooden yoke: from the ends of this the milk pails are suspended +by ropes. Vegetables and other provisions are delivered in the same +manner. The milkmaid passes from door to door, rapping on each with the +ancient brass knocker, and serving her customer with the milk as it is +served with us. + +The whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses. The +shapes are various, and the heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a +charming effect as they stand in rows on either side of the street. Each +house seems to possess an individual style of its own, and many are so +old that they lean quite out of the perpendicular. + +[Illustration: "At the farthest end of the street stands an old +windmill." (_See page 223._)] + +While travelling in Holland one is constantly confronted with a sign in +the form of a wooden arm stretched from a doorway, with a brass disk +suspended from it containing the words: + + Hier scheert en snyd men het haar, + +which signifies that here one can be shaved and have his hair cut: in +other words, it is the sign of a barber, who in America designates his +calling by the gayly-colored pole. The brass disks in front of these +places are polished to a high state of brilliancy, and being suspended +so that they swing loosely in the breeze, they cast dazzling reflections +in all directions which cannot fail to attract the attention of the +passer-by. Another advertisement which differs greatly from those in our +country is that of the drug store. While with us huge glass vases and +globes of different colors are displayed in the window of the +apothecary, in Holland a wooden head of a man in great agony, with +protruding tongue, indicates that here the sufferer can find relief and +medicine for all his aches and pains. This head is conspicuously placed +over the entrance to the drug store. + +Another odd custom in this strange country is that of placing a large +screen called a "Horetje" in the front windows of private houses, or on +the first floors. The screen is sometimes shaped like a fan, sometimes +it is heart-shaped or oval, and is intended to protect the person +seated at the door or window from the idle gaze of the pedestrian. +Indeed it often hides a charming picture of maiden grace and modesty. + +One day as I am sitting at the door of the hotel attempting to sketch +some of the picturesque houses in the neighborhood, with many wondering +eyes directed toward my canvas, I notice a crowd of people beginning to +gather a short distance off. I do not see the centre of attraction, but +seizing my camera, which is my constant companion, together with pencils +and brushes, which are as close friends as Robinson Crusoe and his man +Friday, I hasten to the scene of action, feeling that probably something +is going to happen which will add a new page to my experience. It is +true: something interesting is about to take place; and that is a street +auction, a common occurrence in this town. The auctioneer, perched above +the heads of his audience upon an old wooden box, is calling out his +sales in Dutch. The articles which he is about to dispose of to the +highest bidders are dress goods, linen and wearing apparel. Much +persuasion is necessary before a sale is effected, as the strong desire +of the customers to obtain bargains is met by an equally strong +determination on the part of the auctioneer to sell his stock at good +prices. A funny sort of a seesaw is the result, which is the source of +much merriment among the spectators. I join in some of these outbursts +from pure sympathy, as most of the time I do not understand either the +jokes or allusions. A lively business is frequently carried on at these +auctions; but whether the purchaser really obtains more for his money +than by the ordinary method of buying I cannot ascertain. I presume they +think they have some advantage, or they would not flock to the sales in +such numbers. + +[Illustration: "A beautifully shaded walk just outside the town." (_See +page 224._)] + +An active branch of business here is the sale of curios, antique +silverware, china, gold, jewels, and bric-a-brac; in fact ancient +articles of every description. + +As we walk down the Main street, admiring the clean highway and lovely +old houses on either side of us, we observe many pairs of wooden shoes +lying in front of the different residences near the doorways, and upon +inquiry learn that when one person goes to call upon another, he leaves +his heavy wooden shoes outside the door, and enters in his stocking +feet. + +At the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill with its huge +arms moving slowly and regularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which +blows across the Zuyder Zee. As we draw nearer, we see that it is an +ancient grist mill, and here is the owner, who invites us in to view the +interior, and with whom we have a pleasant chat in our own colloquial +style, adopted since our arrival in this city. Dozens of windmills can +be seen from this point, and, as I have already said, they are used for +many different purposes. The foundation story is the home of the family, +and in a number of these you will find quaint, delightful pictures of +old Dutch interiors, with their odd chairs and dressers, ancient clocks +and brass bound chests, old-fashioned china, and tiled fireplaces. + +There is a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town, encircling the +whole city. Large trees here protect Monnikendam from the heavy wind and +rain storms which come from the Zuyder Zee, when old Neptune rises in +one of his dreadful tantrums. We enjoy this lovely walk, but what do we +not enjoy in this town which surely has bound us by some magic spell; +for the longer we stay here, the more loath we are to leave its borders. + +One day we take a boat and direct our course along one of the canals, on +which there is considerable traffic. Here we behold the pitiable sight +of two young girls, harnessed like mules, and attached to a lead rope, +pulling inch by inch, and foot by foot, a large canal-boat filled with +merchandise. + +I can imagine no harder work than this, for the poor creatures are +exposed to the intense heat of the sun, with no protection against its +direct rays, and they have a long slow journey before them, ere the +heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by foot shall reach its +destination. The toil of the factory girl in America is play when +compared with that of the draught girl in Holland. + +[Illustration: "Land and water." (_See page 224._)] + + + + +A Dutch Cheese-making District. + +[Illustration: "A good road for the bicycle." (_See page 239._)] + + + + +_A Dutch Cheese-making District._ + + A Cheese-making Country--Edam Cheese--A Picturesque Inn--An + Interesting Interior--A Thrifty Farmer--At Sunrise--In the Cow + Stable--The Pretty Maid--Stall and Parlor--The Cheese Room--The + Process of Making Cheese--"I Have Listened and Listened"--A Trip to + Volendam--A Fine Country Road--A Charming Day--Muzzled Dogs--The Only + Street--A Multitude of Children--Gay Decorations--A United People--As + a Hen and Her Brood--Their Wealth is Health--In Sunday Dress--Stalwart + Men and Sturdy Women--A Higher Type--"I have enough"--Fishermen--The + Anchorage--A Volendam Suit. + + +To-day we take the train for Edam, of world-wide fame as a cheese-making +centre. This town, situated about five miles north of Monnikendam, +abounds in beautiful old trees which protect it from the heat of the +sun, and render it very attractive. All of these towns seem to possess +individual interest, and the traveller is constantly surprised in this +region by new and unexpected scenes: but the imprint of truth and +honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in every town, village and +settlement in Holland is observed as the common bond of union, and leads +us to understand the happiness and prosperity for which this region is +justly celebrated. + +It is hardly necessary to say that many cheese factories are scattered +throughout this section of the country. At one of these factories, +located on the bank of the canal, we see a large barge being loaded with +five thousand of the delicious Edam cheeses, intended for foreign +markets. We stop for rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on the +way. This house is a fine subject for an artist. The room in which our +meal is served is in itself a masterpiece. The floor, composed of large +stone flags, is spotlessly clean, and the walls are covered with odd +pieces of china, evidently associated with family history: the woodwork +is as white as soap and sand can make it, and the windows are as clear +as crystal. In a corner stands the old Dutch clock, with the moon, now +nearly full, represented above its time-worn face, and on one side is +the dark dresser, rich in ancient plates, and other quaint old-fashioned +crockery. The table at which we sit is covered with a snowy cloth of +homespun linen, and the blue and white dishes with the stories upon them +which have been thus told for unknown ages almost charm us into +forgetfulness of our luncheon itself, until a healthy cheerful country +girl appears, and with deft movements and smiling face places before us +the appetizing cheese, delicious bread, freshly churned butter, and new +milk as well as buttermilk. For this but a trifling charge is made, but +we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old Dutch interior, the sight of +these brass-bound chests and claw-footed chairs, and the picture of the +cheerful Holland maid are worth many times the cost of the meal. + +We are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty farmer whose home is +about a mile from Monnikendam. This well-to-do personage owns a large +dairy farm, and learning that we are interested in this subject, invites +us to be present at sunrise to witness the process of cheese-making. An +early hour finds us on the way, and in good time a rap on the door of +the farmhouse brings us into the presence of a bright middle-aged Dutch +vrow, who with a cherry "Goeden morgen" bids us enter. We are first +ushered into the parlor, which is a room of considerable size, +immaculately clean, with comfortable chairs and sofas placed in various +corners, and a supply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks that +fill our hearts with longing. In a few moments we are invited to the +adjoining room, which we suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room, but +to our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable, a spacious, well +lighted apartment, about seventy feet long and fifteen feet wide. A row +of stalls runs along one side of the room, and here stand as many of the +genuine, full blooded Holstein cattle. They are handsome creatures, +looking as sleek and clean as those which take the premiums at the state +and county fairs at home. Here they stand, patiently awaiting the +appearance of the milkmaid; not however the milkmaid, "all forlorn" of +nursery rhyme, but in truth + + The pretty maid with dress so clean, + With shining pail and face serene, + Who milks the cows with happy smile, + And sings her joyous songs the while. + +The stalls are as sweet, clean and orderly as is the parlor which we +have just left, and snowy curtains hang above the windows over them, the +only apparent difference between the stable and the parlor being that +the cattle stand upon fresh, fragrant straw, instead of a clean carpet. +From the stable we are conducted to an adjoining building, which is the +cheese factory, and to the room in which are assembled the farmer, his +wife and two servants. Everything is in readiness: the fresh milk is +poured into a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor, and which +is capable of holding about twenty gallons: a small quantity of rennet +is put into the milk, and in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is +passed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass. These sieves or +curd-knives have handles by which they are held while the blades are +drawn from side to side, cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes. +Then the farmer's wife rolls up her sleeves, exposing to view a pair of +round, shapely arms which would be the pride of a city belle, and dips +both hands and arms deep in the floating mass. She presses, and kneads +and rolls this thickening body until it assumes the consistency of +dough: the whey is bluish in color, and as thin as water. This is +drained off, and water is poured over the mass several times, until the +cheese is thoroughly cleansed of all the floating particles. It is now +ready to be placed in five pound moulds made of wood: the moulds are put +into a powerful press which shapes the cheese, and extracts any lurking +remnants of water. After about eight hours in the press, the cheeses are +salted and placed on shelves to dry. Now for a month it is necessary to +turn them every day, and after that, every other day for a month. They +are also sponged with lukewarm water and dried in the open air, and the +final process is a thin coat of linseed oil. It is a tedious operation; +great care is necessary to keep the chamber in which they are shelved +perfectly clean and dry, and of an even temperature. At last the +articles are ready for shipment to all parts of the world. This is an +enormous industry: in North Holland alone, we are informed that +twenty-six million pounds of cheese are produced per annum. + +The portion of the process witnessed by us occupies about an hour and a +half: these cheeses are worth from the farmer's hands fifty or sixty +cents apiece. + +There is a little boy ten or twelve years of age about here who seems to +derive great pleasure from our society, although he cannot understand +one word of English. One day, after sitting quietly for a long time, +while we are conversing together, he repeats impatiently in his own +language: "I have listened and listened to your talk, and I cannot +understand one word. I do not think you are talking sense at all." + +Alas, poor child! You are not the only one who has listened and +listened, trying in vain to find a gleam of intelligence in the +foreigner's gibberish. Ignorance of the language of a nation causes it +to appear to one like a vast sealed volume, which he knows only by the +pictures on the title page. + +I have written at length of the Island of Marken, one of the most noted +of the "Dead cities of Holland," and now, let us take a peep at the +sister city of Volendam, which lies four miles north of Monnikendam. As +we do not wish to visit this place when all the men are off on their +fishing expeditions, we choose for our excursion a clear bright Sunday, +a day on which the men will surely be at home, and their sea horses at +anchor in the harbor. + +Procuring a large carriage and a powerful horse, a difficult thing to +obtain at short notice, we direct our driver to jog along slowly that we +may enjoy the beauty of the surrounding country. We drive over a fine +road, level and well ballasted; a good road for the bicycle: in fact all +the roads of Holland, city and country, are kept in perfect condition. +It is a charming day, and the balmy atmosphere and the refreshing breeze +which sweeps over the Zuyder Zee have a soothing effect upon mind and +body. This would be a great country for invalids, and those who seek +rest and change from the demands of fashion and social life. There is no +fashion here; only pure air and lovely peaceful beauty everywhere, with +good wholesome food and kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the +weary stranger. Added to this is the very moderate cost of a sojourn in +this delightful region. + +Occasionally we pass a small cart or wagon drawn by dogs, the driver a +young girl who is comfortably seated in the vehicle, now and then +administering to the animals, by means of a short stick, reminders not +to lag on the way. These dogs are not the ordinary house dog which is +seen in our country; but are powerful and muscular creatures, as perhaps +I have already said, and so cross and savage when roused, that to secure +the safety of the persons near them they are closely muzzled. Being +ignorant of their peculiar traits, one day while admiring a couple of +fine draught dogs which are resting near a wagon, I approach them too +closely; my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled as one of them springs +viciously at me, striking me heavily on the chest, and he certainly +would have chipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body had his +muzzle not prevented this catastrophe. Hereafter I keep a distance of +many feet between me and these animals, and others of their species. + +[Illustration: "This strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the +town." (_See page 243._)] + +After a lovely drive of an hour, we arrive at the old town which is as +wonderful and interesting as its sister city. It too is built upon the +banks of the Zuyder Zee. We stand upon the only street in the place, +which in appearance resembles the back bone of a whale, with small brick +houses on either side. This strange looking highway runs lengthwise +through the town. The street is narrow: horses and dogs are never seen +upon it, but there are hundreds of children, who gather in great throngs +around our horse, wondering at the strange animal, and declaring him to +be a huge dog, for many of them have never seen a horse before. Our +appearance is also a great event to them, and the visit creates as much +excitement on one side as the other. It is a "red letter day" for both +the townspeople and ourselves. + +The houses are roofed with red tiles, which exhibit many different +shapes and styles, and we perceive numerous flags floating from the +windows, and decorations of gay bunting. Upon asking the reason of this +festive appearance in the isolated and usually quiet city, we are +informed that they are in honor of a wedding which is to take place +within a few days. A wedding in this town is an occasion of great +rejoicing, and every household enters into the spirit of the +entertainment with enthusiasm, as the whole community resembles one +large family, and from the least to the greatest, they are all well +known to each other. The affairs of one are the affairs of all, hence a +single marriage becomes the festive occasion of the entire population. +This is not strange when one recollects that the people have no other +means of entertainment, such as theatres, concert halls or libraries, +whist or euchre parties. They have nothing save the individual +happenings in the domestic lives of the different families. + +A woman whose children are sitting quietly upon the curb stone near us, +looks hurriedly around the door of her house, and seeing the commotion +which our arrival excites, calls anxiously for her "kids" to come to her +protecting arms, in mortal fear lest one of her brood should be carried +off by these strange and unexpected visitors. As I look around, and +behold the robust and muscular physiques of both men and women, I think +any one would be daring indeed who would attempt to carry off a child or +any other possession from these people in opposition to their wills. + +[Illustration: "The houses are roofed with red tiles." (_See page +243._)] + +The women and children here are richly endowed with the blessings of +health and strength. The whole population of thirteen hundred people +employ but one doctor, who has time to grow rusty in his profession, so +few are the demands upon his skill. I suggest to him on the occasion +of a meeting, that he adopt the Chinese plan of remuneration, that is +that the people pay him an annuity as long as they are well, and that +when they are sick, they be entitled to his services gratis. + +The natives of Holland are not inclined to excesses of any kind, and +they thus enjoy the full benefit of naturally sound constitutions, and +are able to transmit to their children perfect, unimpaired health. As we +stroll along this backbone of a street without name or pretensions, we +stop at many of the doorways to talk with the residents, and soon become +impressed with the hospitality of the people, who are arrayed in all the +glory of their Sunday finery, and appear at the fronts of their homes +happy in the consciousness that they as well as all their surroundings +are in "apple pie order." We are as much interested in them as they are +in us, and that is saying a great deal. + +The great, stalwart fellows with their broad shoulders and rugged faces +are indeed true types of all that is brave and manly. A loose shirt and +baggy trousers, with a small cloth cap is the ordinary costume of the +men, many of whom wear wooden shoes; leather slippers are also worn. The +women are equally brave and strong in appearance, and as large in +proportion as the men. Their sturdy forms and healthy faces are rare +models for the artist's brush. Their dress is of homespun linen, +generally dyed blue, and is composed of several pieces; sometimes these +are of various colors combined in a picturesque and effective +arrangement. The head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becoming: +indeed many of our fashionable belles might greatly improve their +appearance by adopting the charming coiffure of these pretty and +apparently unconscious Holland girls and women. These people represent a +higher type of humanity than the inhabitants of Marken: their +intelligence and refinement are more marked, but they have the sunny +temperaments and contented dispositions characteristic of the +Hollanders, and though ignorant of the customs of the outside world, and +limited in their lives to a narrow sphere, they are a happy and +satisfied people. They seem in that happy state of mind, so rarely +possessed, in which they can say _I have enough_. Happiness consists not +in possessing much, but in being content with what we possess. He who +wants little always has enough. + +These men, like those in the neighboring Island of Marken, obtain their +livelihood by fishing. They leave their homes in small boats or yachts +every Monday morning, and do not return until late Saturday night, +allowing them but one day in the week, Sunday, to spend in their homes. +Close by us is the anchorage, so called from the fact that dozens of +fishing boats anchor within its harbor. I suppose that fully a hundred +of these yachts are lying there now, and, shifting from side to side as +the wind stirs the waters of the Zuyder Zee, present the appearance of a +city of masts in a hurricane. + +As we wander about it occurs to me that I should like to become the +possessor of one of the odd and picturesque suits of clothing worn here; +especially one of the better kind of the men's suits, for I know that +this quaint and ancient dress would be interesting to a number of +friends far away in dear America. Filled with the idea, I stop many of +the natives, and through our good and genial friend Mr. L---- inquire if +it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit of clothing, and +suggest that if they have none themselves to sell, perhaps one of their +comrades would part with a suit in exchange for my bright guilders. We +talk to a great many men, but receive the same answer from all: that is +that each possesses but two suits; a best or Sunday suit, and a week-day +or fishing suit, neither of which it is possible to sell for any price +that I may offer. I ask again if there is not some one else among the +men who may be willing to oblige me, and learn that most of the men and +women are in church, but that if we will wait until the service is over, +we can talk with them, and may succeed in our quest. + + + + +Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine. + +[Illustration: "The delicate lace caps frame smiling faces." (_See page +256._)] + + + + +_Volendam Sights and the Oldest Town on the Rhine._ + + Church is out--The Promenade--Every man is a Volume--An Old Suit--His + Sunday Clothes--"Let him have it"--An Obedient Son--The Silver + Buttons--The Last Straw--An Uncommon Action--The Hotel--An Artist's + Resort--An Unfinished Painting--Good-bye--The Ancient City of + Cologne--The Cathedral--Within the "Dom"--A Wonderful + Collection--Foundation of the Town--History--Vicissitudes--Public + Gardens--Eau de Cologne--The Palace of Bruehl. + + +Within a short time we perceive a large number of people slowly +advancing in our direction. Church is over, and it is customary after +the service for every one to promenade up and down this street. Here +friends and relatives greet each other, exchange items of local interest +and have their little gossips over family affairs. The sight is one long +to be remembered. The round weather-beaten faces of the men, as they +roll along in true sailor fashion, the merry chattering women and girls +in their picturesque costume, the children running hither and thither, +and the gayly decorated houses that line the long street are worthy the +brush of an artist. + +Truly these people seem to practice the Golden Rule, for no one appears +to be thinking of himself, but every one cares for the comfort and +happiness of his family, friends or neighbors. The delicate lace caps of +the women frame smiling faces, and the maidens in their quaint homespun +gowns look as though they are a part of a play at one of our theatres. +As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the foremost group, and +having attracted their attention by our novel appearance, ask through +our friend Mr. L----, the oft-repeated question about the suit of +Volendam clothes, which we are anxious to carry home to show our friends +in America. In an instant they all shake their heads in the negative, +looking very serious at the idea of such a proposition. Their manly and +straightforward manner charms me. I look into the open countenances, in +which there is much individuality, and say to myself: it is as true here +as in the great cities of the world that _Every man is a volume if you +know how to read him._ There is a story in the heart of each one of +these sturdy fishermen, whether it has seen the light of day or not, and +many a noble deed and heroic action that in another town would receive a +medal of honor, or at least the applause of the public, passes here as a +common incident of everyday life. These people do not live for show: +the only medals which they wear, and which they transmit to their +children are the records of pure, honest lives which are proudly handed +down from one generation to another. + +[Illustration: "As the congregation draws nearer, we halt before the +foremost group." (_See page 256._)] + +Meanwhile I stand before them watching the varying expressions and +wondering if there is any prospect of obtaining my desire. At last one +man says hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home that he no longer +wears, and if we will accompany him to his house, a few doors away, he +will show it to us. We turn and follow him, and a score or more of the +people follow us. What must an old suit look like in this thrifty +community where the men and women never discard anything until it is +utterly hopeless as regards service? + +A suit which one of these is willing to dispose of must indeed be a +peculiar object. I wonder if it has that "ancient and fish-like smell," +described by Shakespeare. The fates forbid! Perhaps it is a relic of a +beloved father or grandfather, handed down as a family heirloom. We +enter the house, still surrounded by curious spectators, and our +obliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-wrapped bundle, which +upon being opened discloses a worn and aged suit: unfortunately its age +does not add to its beauty or value as in the cases of old masterpieces +in art, as a painting by Murillo or Rembrandt. The clothes are old, +dirty, and faded, and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman, but +they do not fail to serve their purpose, for while this young athlete +holds them out, with an expression of pride and pleasure, a sudden +thought fills me with hope. The suit which this young man wears is of +the highest type of the Volendam fashion, and is quite new. The flannel +blouse with its gay undervest showing at the chest, and the baggy brown +velveteen trousers form an ideal specimen of the costume of these +people. I must have this suit. No other will answer my purpose. Without +preliminaries, I boldly propose to him to sell me the suit he wears, and +put on the old one until he can procure another. His countenance falls, +and with a look of positive fear, he draws back, shaking his head and +repeating: "Nee. Nee. Nee." + +Then he moves farther away, as though in terror lest I then and there +strip him of his garments. He cannot sell the suit, he says, especially +as the wedding festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon to take +place. In a corner of the room, quietly smoking a clay pipe, sits the +old father, watching without a word the little drama taking place +before him. As the boy reiterates his refusal, the man talks to him in +expostulatory tones, and as we learn, says: "The gentleman from America +is a good man. Let him have the suit: you shall have another." At this +advice the son, though looking rather sulky, yields, and withdrawing to +the adjoining room, exchanges the suit he wears for the old one, and +returns with the desire of my heart rolled up and wrapped in a clean +paper. The evidence of good will on the part of the parent, and the +obedience of the son charm me even more than the possession of the +coveted garments. The boy is a noble lad. As we are about leaving, I +suddenly espy the silver coin buttons which are such an ornament to the +dress, and which are considered a mark of distinction, when worn by old +or young. They are rare and valuable decorations, being buttons made of +coins, and held together by a link, as our sleeve-buttons. They are worn +in the bands of the trousers and shirts, serving the purpose of +suspenders. + +The coins are brilliantly polished and present a striking appearance. +They are generally heirlooms, and some of them are of very ancient date. + +In general they are cherished as treasures beyond price: these worn by +the boy are exceedingly rare, and are more than a hundred years old, +having belonged to his great-grandfather. The outer and larger coins are +three guilder pieces, the smaller ones one guilder. + +To ask for these is indeed the "last straw," and when the father +requests his son to put them in the bundle with the clothing, he bursts +into tears, and his hands tremble as he gives them to me. + +For this final test of obedience I thank him heartily, and bestow upon +him a liberal reward for the sacrifice, together with much praise. As he +looks at the guilders with which I have filled his hand, his countenance +brightens, and the rainfall is changed into radiant sunshine. The +neighbors look on this scene with surprise, and many of them declare +that this is a very uncommon occurrence in Volendam, as they have never +known any one heretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a foreigner. +It is unnecessary to say that I also value the coins beyond price, and +treasure them for their association, and the interesting picture which +they never fail to bring before me. + +[Illustration: "Every man is a volume if you know how to read him." +(_See page 256._)] + +There is but one hotel in the place, and thither we resort. It is a +small building without pretensions, containing about ten rooms, of no +great size, but clean and comfortable. We learn that board and +accommodations may be had here for four guilders (one dollar) a day. +This hotel has entertained artists from all parts of the world. The +good-natured landlord will do everything in his power to make his guests +comfortable. In the general sitting-room or parlor, there is abundant +evidence that these efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful +paintings presented to him by some of the most famous artists of our +day. He is a loyal upholder of art and artists. His daughter, a fresh +looking maiden, is so much pleased when I say that I too, am an artist +and photographer, that she insists upon taking me up to the third floor +to see the fine view from the windows which overlook the Zuyder Zee. She +also shows me a room which was fitted up for a lady artist from New +York. Here is an unfinished picture upon the easel, of an old Volendam +woman, in her fancy cap and bright colored homespun costume. + +This secluded spot offers many attractions for both brush and camera in +interesting studies of figures and landscape, as well as charming water +scenes. We would gladly spend a longer time amid these delightful +pictures, but it is impossible, so we take our departure amid a hundred +good wishes, and as we drive away, the inhabitants who have gathered +from all parts of the town to see the queer Americans, call after us: +"Goeden dag," and "Tot weerziens," (Until we meet again). A dozen or +more children run by the side of the carriage shouting and laughing for +a considerable distance. And so we bid farewell to a hearty and +attractive people and their quaint surroundings. + +Let us take a somewhat hasty glance at Cologne, the oldest city on the +Rhine, and one of the largest towns in the Rhenish Province of Prussia. +We cannot afford to miss this town, were it only on account of the great +Cathedral whose lofty towers rise heavenward to a height of five hundred +and twelve feet. How one longs to find himself within these sacred +walls, to stand and gaze upon the wondrous arches, pillars, and dome, +the stained glass and statues, the frescoes and carving, the work of an +endless succession of artists and artisans. Next to St. Peter's at Rome, +this Cathedral is the largest church in the world. It stands upon the +old Roman camping ground, and more than six centuries have passed since +its foundations were laid. The name of its architect is unknown, and +even the original designs have been forgotten. Its interior is four +hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred and forty feet broad. +The portion appropriated to divine service covers an area of seventy +thousand square feet. It is useless to attempt to describe this vast +structure whose buttresses, turrets, gargoyles, canopies and tracery are +innumerable and bewildering. The Gothic arches and countless pillars +form a grand perspective. There are seven chapels which present a wealth +of paintings, and relics. In the Chapel of the Three Magi is a +marvellous casket of crystal, whose cover is set with precious stones, +which is said to contain the skulls of Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar, +the three Wise Men from the East who followed the star to the cradle of +the infant Christ. + +[Illustration: "Goeden dag. Tot weerziens." (_See page 266._)] + +In the great treasury of the Cathedral are untold treasures. Here are +silver censers, paintings set in diamonds, shrines of silver, and rare +and priceless relics of every description, besides gold and silver +chalices, fonts, and other church vessels, and a collection of +magnificent vestments. + +Many are the vicissitudes through which this wonderful structure has +passed, since its commencement in 1248. At times it seemed abandoned to +ruin, then again the work was taken up and vast sums of money +contributed, and the masterpiece of Gothic architecture was carried on +toward completion, until once more the money was exhausted. It seems as +though the old legend of the architect who sold his soul to the devil in +exchange for the plan of the edifice must have some foundation, for +tradition relates that Satan was finally outwitted by the architect, and +in revenge vowed that the Cathedral should never be finished, and the +architect's name be forgotten. Immense fortunes have been expended upon +it by monarchs and others of the faithful. The great southern portal +alone cost half a million dollars: the bells in the south tower, the +largest of which was cast in 1874, from the metal of French guns, weighs +twenty-five tons. The combined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are +required to set it in motion. The next two in point of size, cast in +1447 and 1448, weigh respectively eleven and six tons. The magnificent +stained glass windows were contributed by famous and royal donors, such +as the Emperor Frederick III., Archbishop Von Daun, Archbishop Von +Hessen, King Lewis I. of Bavaria, Emperor William I., and many others. A +number of these were executed as far back as 1508. + +Few structures can compete with this in beauty, grace and elegance of +form. How solemn is the atmosphere within these ancient walls! How +impressive the picture of this apparently boundless interior! In one of +the great pillars is a flight of one hundred steps, which leads to a +gallery extending across the transept, and still nearly forty steps +higher one reaches the gallery which makes the tour of the whole +Cathedral, and upon this one has a beautiful view of the city of +Cologne, the Rhine and the surrounding country. Within the church there +is a corresponding gallery, from which the visitor may observe the +interior decorations, and from the loftiest gallery of all, there is a +vast and delightful panorama which includes river and country as far as +the eye can see. What can be more beautiful than this scene? Where can +one find a grander, more solemn atmosphere than within these walls where +the spirits and the hands of men have worked for ages? Where can he +experience more lofty aspirations toward + + "The glorious Author of the universe + Who reins the minds, gives the vast ocean bounds, + And circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds"? + +The city of Cologne was founded by the Ubii at the time when they were +compelled by Agrippa to migrate from the right to the left bank of the +Rhine, (B. C. 38). In A. D. 51, Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus, and +mother of Nero, founded here a colony of Roman veterans which at first +was called Colonia Agrippinensis, and afterward Colonia Claudia +Agrippina. In 308 Constantine the Great began a stone bridge over the +Rhine to Deutz. From the end of the fifth century Cologne belonged to +the Franks and was long occupied by the Ripuarian kings. Charlemagne +raised the bishopric which had been founded here in the fourth century +to an archbishopric, the first archbishop being the imperial chaplain +Hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church, and presented to it a +valuable library which still exists. + +"The noble city has passed through many vicissitudes, and it was not +until after 1815 under Prussian rule that it began to enjoy a degree of +permanent prosperity. The rapid progress of its steamboat and railway +systems, and the enterprise of the citizens, many of whom possess great +wealth, have combined to make Cologne the centre of the Rhenish trade, +and one of the most considerable commercial cities in Germany." + +The town is built with long narrow streets curving in semicircles toward +the river. Its sidewalks have the peculiarity of frequently dwindling +away until only a few feet in width. The great Cathedral tower may be +seen for miles, reaching far above the surrounding buildings. Cologne is +a city of legends and relics: old and historic buildings dating back +many centuries are scattered in all directions, and here the visionary, +the lover of myth and legend, can find abundant food for his +imagination. The great and valued possessions of the city are the bones +of the eleven thousand virgins. This is the legend: Fourteen hundred +years ago, St. Ursula and eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage +to Rome, and returning were all slain by the Huns. Their bones were +gathered together and brought to Cologne, where they were buried, and +later the church of St. Ursula, now nearly nine hundred years old, was +built over their tomb. Within this church the bones of the virgins are +enclosed in stone caskets, with apertures through which they may be +seen. The skulls are covered with needlework and ornamented with pearls +and precious stones. + +Among other relics, is also to be found here the alabaster vase or +rather one of the vases, in which the Saviour turned the water into wine +at the marriage in Cana. The vase or jar is evidently a very ancient +article: it is much cracked, and one handle is broken off. There are +many points of interest in this old city, for here are museums, gardens, +galleries and churches, and always the picturesque river with its +countless views and pleasure trips. + +If one is weary of these legendary stories, or even of sightseeing +itself, let him rest with me in one of the many public gardens, +listening to the charming music of a good orchestra. + +There are skilled musicians in these gardens, and their selections are +always well rendered. No loud or idle conversation is indulged in during +these recitals. Should any such breach of good manners occur, the +transgressors are requested to observe the rule of the garden, and if +the offence is repeated, they are ejected from the premises. The +Germans, being such lovers of good music, tolerate no other in their +gardens. There is no admission fee, but the expenses are supposed to be +met by the sale of beer, wine, pretzels and Frankfurt sausages. + +Before leaving Cologne I must not forget to mention the refreshing +perfume which has made this city famous all over the world. The +celebrated Eau de Cologne is said to have been invented by Jean Antoine +Marie Farina of Domodossola in the year 1709. One could almost bathe in +the perfume here for the money it would cost to filter our muddy +Philadelphia water. There is an enormous quantity of it manufactured, +and almost every store seems to have it for sale. + +[Illustration: "Palace of Bruehl." (_See page 277._)] + +A short distance from Cologne, or Koeln as the Germans call it, is the +almost forsaken station of Bruehl. I would advise the tourist to alight +here, and take a close view of the imperial palace known as the Palace +of Bruehl, a handsome building erected about the year 1725. As we advance +toward the beautiful and spacious grounds, it is not difficult to +imagine the magnificent structure looming up in the distance as the home +of royalty. The approach to the palace is studded with marble statues, +and the palace itself is a classic example of the French and German +rococo style of architecture; from it radiate many lovely walks and +bowery avenues which are adorned with fine statuary. Here too are velvet +lawns, noble trees and glowing flower beds, and should one wish to view +the interior of this elegant palace, he will find that some of the rooms +are open to visitors. + +Our stay within is necessarily brief. Retracing our steps to the +station, we take the train, and are carried swiftly toward the old town +of Bonn. + + + + +Along the Banks of the Rhine. + +[Illustration: "Lovely walks and bowery avenues." (_See page 277._)] + + + + +_Along the Banks of the Rhine._ + + Bonn--The Birthplace of Beethoven--The Museum--Monument--A Famous + Restaurant--College Students--Beer Mugs--Special Tables--Affairs of + Honor--Koenigswinter--Magnificent Views--Drachenfels--The Castle--The + Dombruch--Siegfried and the Dragon--A Desecrated Ruin--The Splendor of + the Mountains--Many Visitors--View from the Summit--The Students' + Chorus--German Life--A German Breakfast--The Camera--Old Castles and + Lofty Mountains--Legends of the Rhine--The Waters of the + Rhine--Vineyards. + + +This town like its sister cities is of ancient foundation, having been +one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine. It is the seat of a +university which attracts students from all parts of the world. It is a +prosperous looking place with pleasant villas on the river banks, and +ancient picturesque houses. There are lovely shaded walks in the public +gardens, and a fine view from the Alte Zoll, but the chief interest of +the town for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace of Beethoven. +In a small unpretentious house the great musician was born in 1770, and +here were composed many of those wonderful harmonies which have thrilled +the souls of lovers of music all over the world. The room in which this +noble genius first saw the light of day is in the top of the house, a +garret ten feet by twelve in size, and contains no furniture whatever: +nor is it necessary to remind those who enter it, by aught save the +wreath of green which lies peacefully upon the floor, that the spirit +whose earthly tabernacle dwelt here breathed forth the fire of heaven. + + "Creative genius. From thy hand + What shapes of order, beauty rise, + Where waves thy potent, mystic wand, + To people ocean, earth and skies." + +In an adjoining room are stored some pieces of furniture which belonged +to Beethoven, and the piano used by him in the composition of some of +his most famous sonatas. Some of the ladies of our party are permitted +to play upon this sacred instrument. Do they hope to be inspired by the +magic spell of the master's touch still lingering among the keys? The +dwelling has been purchased by lovers of the celebrated composer, and +fitted up as a Beethoven Museum. Not far off stands the statue of the +artist and the monument dedicated to him. + +Before leaving Bonn, we visit the famous restaurant which is the nightly +resort of the students during the college term. The spacious rooms +composing this cafe communicate with each other by a wide and lofty +doorway. The furniture consists of bare wooden tables, a long counter, +and dozens of shabby chairs which look as if they have seen hard +service. The corpulent and jovial proprietor informs us that these rooms +are filled to overflowing with both gay and serious students every night +in the week, and that here, notwithstanding the ofttimes boisterous +merriment, questions of grave import are often discussed, together with +all the current topics of interest; and that speeches are made brilliant +enough for publication in the daily papers. Here the young orator first +tests his powers, and in all his future career, he will find no more +critical audience than this composed of his fellow-students. Here too +are nights given up to fun and jollity, to college songs and wild and +reckless mirth, when there is not a serious countenance among the crowd. + + "He cannot try to speak with gravity, + But one perceives he wags an idle tongue; + He cannot try to look demure, but spite + Of all he does he shows a laugher's cheek; + He cannot e'en essay to walk sedate, + But in his very gait one sees a jest + That's ready to break out in spite of all + His seeming." + +Hundreds of voices make the roof ring with tuneful harmony: choruses, +glees and comic ballads follow each other, interspersed with jokes and +puffs at pipes and sips of beer, for the German student is a + + "Rare compound of oddity, frolic and fun, + To relish a joke and rejoice at a pun." + +Pounds of poor tobacco are smoked, and gallons of good beer consumed at +these gatherings, and the landlord is always on the side of the boys +when there is any trouble, and rejoices in all their collegiate honors +and their success in every other line. + +Upon the shelves above the tables are long rows of individual beer mugs, +with the owners' names or crests conspicuously painted in gay colors +upon them. These mugs vary in capacity from a pint to two quarts, and +the host assures me gravely that many of the students drain even the +largest ones nine or ten times in the course of an evening. I ponder, as +he speaks, upon the wonderful power of expansion of the human stomach +which performs this feat. + +[Illustration: "Not far off stands the statue of the artist." (_See page +284._)] + +As a natural consequence of this enormous appetite for beer, one sees in +the restaurants in many of the German cities an especial table +constructed with a deep semicircular curve in the side, which allows +the corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage in comfortable +proximity to the bottle. Such as these must have been in Shakespeare's +mind, when he wrote: "He was a man of an unbounded stomach." + +The deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many of the students, are +matters of great pride with them, as evidences of the number of "affairs +of honor" in which they have been engaged. They look with scorn upon the +fellow collegian whose countenance does not display one or more of these +signs of bloody combat, and are always ready to seize an occasion of +this kind for the exhibition of their bravery or their skill at arms. +Sometimes these duels are a result of the silliest arguments, at others +they are sought by deliberate insult given by the one who wishes to +fight. A glance is sometimes sufficient for a sanguinary meeting. + +Will they ever learn that no stain can ever be washed out with blood, no +honor redeemed by the sword, no moral bravery displayed by an encounter +of this kind? It is falling to the level of the brute, with perhaps a +little more skill evinced in the choice of the weapons of warfare. It +cannot but detract from the dignity of the human being, and this is true +to a far greater extent in the case of those who entertain themselves +by witnessing such unnatural sports as prize fights, cock fights, and +most degrading of all, but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized +countries, the bull fight;--all relics of barbarism. + +Let us leave this unpleasant subject, however, and allow ourselves to be +spirited away to a veritable fairy land of beauty, and quaint legendary +associations. The little town of Koenigswinter nestles at the foot of the +Seven Mountains, from which there are innumerable views of the Rhine and +the surrounding country. A halo of romance surrounds this region, and in +the many excursions from this point, the lover of the weird and +visionary will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of +rare grace and beauty, brave knights, crafty priests, wild huntsmen, +cruel dragons, super-human heroes, and all the wonderful personages of +legendary lore. The town is a thriving, modern looking place of about +thirty-five hundred inhabitants, excluding the floating population of +tourists who throng the hotels and scatter themselves among the private +families. + +We arrive here early in the afternoon, and establish ourselves in a +comfortable and attractive hotel. The day is clear and pleasant, and +desiring to make good use of the hours of daylight before us, we +determine to make the ascent of the Drachenfels. There are a number of +different routes or paths, by which one may reach the summit of this +mountain on foot; or, should the tourist prefer to ride, he can use the +Mountain Railway which approaches the top in a line almost straight. +Protected by stout shoes, carrying wraps, and armed with long and strong +wooden staffs, we walk slowly along the mountain road, pausing at +intervals to gaze upon the beautiful scenes which surround us in every +direction. The great peak known as the Drachenfels or Dragon rock, in +which from the river a vast cavern may be seen, owes its name to the +numerous legends which are connected with it. In the cave, it is said, +lived a terrible monster who daily demanded of the people the sacrifice +of a young maiden, who was bound and decorated with flowers, and placed +near the entrance to his lair. Siegfried slew the dragon and by bathing +in his blood, became invulnerable. The maiden whose life he thus saved +was Hildegarde, the beautiful daughter of the Lord of Drachenfels, whom +he afterward married and bore to the castle whose crumbling and +picturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag, fifteen hundred feet +above the Rhine. This castle was once a mighty stronghold of the robber +chieftains; its foundation is associated with Arnold, Archbishop of +Cologne at the beginning of the twelfth century, who in 1149 bestowed it +upon the Cassius Monastery at Bonn. It was held as a fief by the counts +of the castle. + +Henry, Count of Drachenfels, furnished the chapter of the Cathedral of +Cologne with the stone for its construction from a quarry which from +this fact still bears the name of Dombruch, or cathedral quarry. In the +Thirty Years' War the half-ruined castle was occupied by the Swedes, but +was besieged and taken from them by Duke Ferdinand of Bavaria, Elector +of Cologne, who completed its destruction. + +The cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new castle, the Drachenburg, +built in 1883 for the Baron von Sarter. It is in the Gothic style, and +is elaborately decorated with frescoes and stained glass. The upper part +of the mountain is covered with trees below the cliff, the lower part +with grapevines, while along the banks of the Rhine at its foot are +picturesque cottages, nestling among trees and vines. The Drachenfels is +the loftiest of the Seven Mountains, and its summit commands one of the +finest prospects on the Rhine. In the ruins of the old castle, ingenious +and progressive man has seen fit to ignore sentiment, and thrust a +modern restaurant, where in spite of his shocked sensibilities, the +weary traveller may in return for German marks, rest and refresh himself +with sparkling wine which is famous for its fine quality and flavor, +while the cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited brain. + +[Illustration: "The great peak known as the Drachenfels, or Dragon +Rock." (_See page 291._)] + +One lingers long, dazzled by the splendor of this superb view. Mountains +and valley, river and islands unite in a glorious picture which +entrances the soul, and thrills the heart with gladness; while the pure, +bracing mountain air, laden with the perfume of the grape, fills the +lungs with "a perpetual feast of nectar's sweets." + +Many tourists surround us, and we hear a perfect babel of tongues: +French, English, German and other languages greet our ears, assuring us +that visitors from all parts of the world are enjoying this magnificent +panorama with us. + +What a pity the camera will not encompass the wonderful scene. + + "The castled crag of Drachenfels + Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, + Whose breast of waters broadly swells + Between the banks which bear the vine; + And hills all riched with blossom'd trees, + And fields which promise corn and wine; + And scatter'd cities crowning these, + Whose fair white walls along them shine, + Have strew'd a scene which I should see, + With double joy wert thou with me." + +Several of the Siebengebirge are visible toward the east, the basaltic +heights sloping toward the Rhine. Just below are Rhoendorf, Honnef, +Rheinbreitbach, Unkel, and Erpel; on the left bank of the river are +Remagen and the Gothic church on the Apollinarisberg, with the heights +of the Eifel and the ruin of Olbrueck Castle on a height of 1,550 feet. +In the neighborhood are Oberwinter, the islands of Grafenwerth and +Nonnenworth and the beautiful ruins of Rolandseck with its surrounding +villas and gardens. To the right, one may behold Kreuzberg, Bonn and +even the city of Cologne in the distance. + +It seems as though one could gaze upon this scene of grandeur and beauty +forever. As twilight falls, the picture receives a new and entrancing +sublimity. "The weary sun hath made a golden set," and silently the +sparkling stars appear, one by one, while the deepening shadows blend +the scene into a vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the soul up +to the very threshold of heaven. + +We descend the mountain rather silently, unwilling to break the +impression made by our journey, and slowly through the gloom make our +way back to the hotel. + +While sitting upon the porch in the evening, surrounded by the majestic +watch towers of the Rhine, and expatiating on the pleasures of the day, +we suddenly hear a rich full chorus, harmoniously sung by at least one +hundred male and female voices. The singers are invisible, and the notes +seem to float out from one of the neighboring mountain caves. We all +listen with delight to the sounds, which now approaching nearer, +convince us that the singers are not the denizens of another world, but +are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves. In the distance we can +discern a procession of gay and jovial students with their sweethearts +at their sides. The young men are carrying lighted torches and lanterns +which illuminate them and the road, and are merrily singing the popular +glees and college songs as they wend their way to the boat landing close +by. + +The party is returning from a German students' picnic, and as they board +the little steamer, which immediately leaves her moorings, the air is +rent by cheer after cheer, and we hear the gay laughter and happy voices +long after the boat has disappeared from our eyes down the silent +flowing river. Such is the German student life, and such is the +character of the German people: not averse to pleasure, sociable, +jovial, kind and happy. + +We rise early this morning, and partake of a good German breakfast; and +of what do you suppose a good German breakfast consists? Dishes of +greasy sausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy, kale or saurkraut, +onions and hot sauces, potatoes soaked in lard; black bread which has +also been soaked in lard to save the expense of butter: and all this +washed down with innumerable mugs of beer or Rhine wine, with a "thank +heaven" when the unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes or +olfactories? No, my dear friend; our breakfast is a most agreeable +contrast to the picture just drawn. We are served with deliciously +cooked steak and chops, and the connoisseur of any nationality would not +disdain these meats or the daintily prepared chicken, coffee and fresh +rolls. The eggs are fresh and not underdone: one can find no fault with +the butter or the sweet new milk, and it is with a feeling of great +satisfaction that we rise from the table at the close of the meal, and +exclaim that we have had a breakfast "fit for a king." + +A small steamer with an upper deck waits at the landing to convey +passengers and a limited amount of freight from Koenigswinter to Bingen. +It is ten o'clock when we step on this attractive little boat with our +numerous wraps and parcels. We are well laden, for the camera occupies +one hand, and is always ready for an unexpected shot at some picturesque +figure, group, building or landscape. And I will here say to the tourist +who wishes to illustrate his notes, that it is best to keep camera and +sketch book handy, for you little know what fine opportunities are +missed while you are stopping to unstrap your needed friend. Let your +sketching outfit hang over your shoulder, and as to the camera, have one +which will respond to your touch within five seconds, or you will lose +many a scene of beauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of +friends at home. We are much amused at the bulky apparatus of a friend, +which is always carried neatly strapped in its box, while mine hangs +over my shoulder, ready to snap instantly to a demand upon it. The +difference in the result of the two methods is that I have a collection +of many valuable pictures, while our friend spends most of his time +strapping and unstrapping his camera. The day is chilly and threatening, +and as we leave the landing, we find ourselves in a heavy fog, much to +my disappointment, for I have anticipated great pleasure in seeing and +photographing the many beautiful ruins of old castles and the landscape +along our route. However as the mist lightens now and then, I "shoot" +away here and there with as much ardor as the circumstances will allow: +not idly or carelessly, as the enthusiastic amateur, reckless of plates +and results, but at unquestionably fine points, such as lofty castles +and picturesque mountains, half fearing sometimes that in spite of my +precautions the longed-for view will prove but a blur upon my plate. It +is bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime pictures with such +faulty exposures. + +The country around Koenigswinter is extremely beautiful. Upon both sides +of the Rhine rise the lofty peaks of the wooded mountains, with in +almost every case a ruined castle upon the summit. How noble and defiant +is the appearance of these venerable fortresses with their eventful +histories and wonderful legends. Here near Remagen within full view of +the river is the church dedicated to St. Apollinaris, at one time a +great resort for pilgrims. It is said to be beautifully decorated with +ancient and modern works of art; the view from the church tower so +charmed the artist who first ornamented it that he painted his portrait +upon the tower that his eyes might forever look upon the mountains and +valleys and follow the winding course of the glistening river. Near +the church, at the foot of the mountain, is the celebrated Apollinaris +fountain, whose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the world +for their medicinal properties. + +[Illustration: "How noble and defiant is the appearance of these +venerable fortresses." (_See page 300._)] + +At times the blue breaks through the clouds, and then the pictures are +surpassingly lovely. The castles in their sorrowful majesty are very +imposing: they are generally built of stone, are of fine architectural +design, and are frequently the centre of charming old gardens, or are +embowered in trees and shrubbery. Here they stand year after year, +looking down upon the ever youthful river. Some of them are occupied, +while others are desolate ruins. + + "High towers, fair temples, + Strong walls, rich porches, princely palaces, + All these (oh pity), now are turned to dust, + And overgrown with black oblivion's rust." + +One can hardly realize the grandeur of this scenery. Every turn of the +river presents a different view: it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of +natural beauty. Now we behold the mountains with their masses of foliage +reaching to the very summits; now the charming village amid its +vineyards, with its odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame +houses with plain roofs and quaint gables. While sitting silently on +deck gazing upon the old castles and ever changing scenes which border +this beautiful body of water, I hear solemn tones proceeding from the +belfry of an old church, and behold a little procession of mourners +slowly following the hearse which is bearing the remains of some loved +relative or friend to their final resting-place;--a pathetic little +group walking sadly along through the drenching rain from the church to +the burying ground. + +One is compelled to notice here the numerous signs with huge letters +emblazoned upon them, informing the passers-by that here are bottled +popular waters of medicinal qualities. The tottering establishments are, +I observe, close to the water's edge, and whether or not the Rhine +contributes the greater part in the composition of these famous waters +is an open question. However it may be, the waters, or mineral springs, +of genuine virtue or otherwise, are the source of a considerable profit +in this region. Water as a beverage is seldom used by the Germans, for +the light Rhine wines are to be had in perfection at a trifling cost. + +[Illustration: "Every turn of the river presents a different view." +(_See page 303._)] + +We glide along, passing island and vineyard, and castle crowned height, +with now and then a wide curve in the river, which looks with its +smiling face to-day much as it did centuries ago when the old +strongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal splendor, and +noble retinues defiled down the narrow mountain paths to the water's +edge. + + "Thou, unchanged from year to year + Gayly shalt play and glitter here; + Amid young flowers and tender grass, + Thine endless infancy shalt pass; + And, singing down thy narrow glen, + Shall mock the fading race of men." + + + + +From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main. + +[Illustration: "Now we behold the little church surrounded by +picturesque houses." (_See page 303._)] + + + + +_From Bingen on the Rhine to Frankfort-on-the-Main._ + + Vast Vineyards--Bingen--The Hotel--The Down Quilt--A German + Maid--Taverns--The Mouse Tower--Ruedesheim--Niederwald--The + Rheingau--The National Monument--The Castle of Niederburg--Wine + Vaults--The River--Street Musicians--A + Misunderstanding--Frankfort-on-the-Main--The Crossing of the Ford--A + Free City--Monument of Goethe--History--A Convocation of Bishops--The + City--Monument of Gutenberg--The House in which Rothschild was + Born--Luther. + + +After leaving Koenigswinter, we pass vast vineyards on both sides of the +Rhine, and as we approach Bingen we see them covering the whole +mountain-side. Among the vines may be seen what seem like steps +encircling the mountain to its very summit, but which in reality are +roads or paths through the vineyard. The sturdy and prolific vines grow +close to these walks. In this section of the country the greatest care +is given to grape culture, hence in Bingen is to be found the finest +wine made in the country. In this region are located great breweries and +wine vaults extending into the mountain-sides for hundreds of feet. On +arriving at Bingen we proceed at once to the Victoria Hotel, a quiet +house situated at a convenient distance from both railroad station and +steamboat landing. The charges are moderate, and the accommodations +good. + +Upon entering our sleeping apartment, I observe upon the beds huge +fluffy quilts stuffed with soft feathers, and forming a pile at least +two feet in thickness, which covers the entire surface from bolster to +footboard. This ominous appearance fills me with strange forebodings and +wondering thoughts. I say to myself: "God made the country, and man made +the town, but who on earth has manufactured these monstrous +counterpanes, and for what purpose?" Surely not for ornament, for they +are the most unsightly objects I have ever beheld in the line of +needlework, and look as if intended to smother hydrophobia patients. But +as few dogs are seen hereabout, this does not seem probable. The +appearance of a smiling innocent-faced chambermaid interrupts my +meditations. She informs me that these great masses of feathers are used +to keep the body warm at night. I conclude from this that the Germans +are a cold-blooded people, since such a slaughter of the "feathery +tribe" is necessary to maintain their normal temperature when in a +state of repose. As night advances, I summon up courage to crawl under +this fluffy mountain, and in a few moments feel as if a great loaf of +freshly-baked bread is lying upon me. The heat is intense, and makes me +think of "Eternal torments, baths of boiling sulphur, vicissitudes of +fires." I cast it off, and as the nights are chilly, soon find myself +too cool. But I will not allow the enemy to return and overpower me, for +there is much to be seen hereabout on the morrow, and I know that +overgrown spread would absorb all the strength reserved for the +occasion. Placing my steamer rug upon the bed, I am soon oblivious to +all surroundings and happy in a land of pleasant dreams. + +[Illustration: "Approaching Bingen we see vineyards covering the +mountain side." (_See page 313._)] + +This house is indeed delightfully located in the midst of a beautiful +country. Bingen is a lovely town at the entrance of the romantic Nahe +valley, looking out upon mountain, glen and river on every side, upon +lofty castles and vine-embowered cottages. Quaint narrow streets and +ancient buildings, whose history is buried in the distant centuries, +tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger in this neighborhood. The +place was known to the Romans, who erected a castle here, which was +destroyed by the French in 1689, but which has been restored and +extended. There is a beautiful view from the tower, and footpaths +ascend to it both from the Nahe and the Rhine. + +Here are old historic taverns, whose floors are composed of large slabs +of stone. The primitive chairs and tables are of rude workmanship, and +devoid of paint or style, but heavy and strong enough to support the +weary travellers who resort thither. + +We wander about, revelling in nature's enchanting pictures, and +rejoicing in the mysterious atmosphere of the dense forests, which form +the background. The smiling river, with its silver sheen beneath the +moon, or its golden reflections of the setting sun, is ever an +inspiration and a suggestion for some new trip or point of vantage. Yes, +here are scenes for the artist, and pictures ready for the camera. Here +too, on a quartz rock in the middle of the Rhine is the Mouse Tower +which is said to owe its name to the well-known legend of the cruel +Archbishop Hatto of Mayence. + +In the year 914, a protracted rain ruined the harvest in this region, +and a terrible famine ensued among the poor people, who in their +distress finally applied to the archbishop, as his granaries were +overflowing with the harvests of former years. But the hard-hearted +prelate would not listen to them. At last they wearied him so with their +importunities, that he bade them assemble in an empty barn, promising +to meet them on a certain day and quiet their demands. + +Delighted with the prospect of relief, the people gathered on the +appointed day in such numbers that the barn was soon filled. The +archbishop ordered his servants to fasten all the doors and windows so +that none could escape, and then set fire to the building, declaring +that they were as troublesome as rats, and should perish in the same +way. + +The following day, when the bishop entered his dining-room, he found +that the rats had gnawed his recently finished portrait from the frame, +and it lay in a heap of fragments on the floor. While he stood gazing at +it a messenger burst into the room with the news that a great army of +fierce looking rats were coming toward the castle. Without a moment's +delay the archbishop flung himself on a horse and rode rapidly away +followed by thousands of rats all animated by the revengeful spirits of +the starving population he had burned. He had scarcely dismounted and +entered a small boat on the Rhine, when the rats fell upon his horse and +devoured it. Rowing to his tower in the middle of the Rhine, he locked +himself in, thinking he had escaped his voracious foes; but the rats +boldly swam across the Bingerloch, and gnawed thousands of holes in the +tower, through which they rushed to their victim. Southey in his ballad, +thus describes their entrance into the tower: + + "And in at the windows, and in at the door, + And through the walls, helter-skelter they pour, + And down from the ceiling, and up from the floor, + From the right and the left, from behind and before, + From within and without, from above and below, + And all at once to the bishop they go. + + "They have whetted their teeth against the stones, + And now they pick the bishop's bones; + They knawed the flesh from every limb, + For they were sent to do judgment on him." + +This is the old legend; but now comes the searcher after truth with the +information that the tower was in reality erected in the middle ages as +a watch tower, and the name is derived from the old German "musen," to +spy. These ruins were again converted into a station for signalling +steamers, which in descending the Rhine are required to slacken speed +here when other vessels are coming up the river. + +Taking one of the small steamboats which run from Bingen to the opposite +bank, we land at the little town of Ruedesheim which lies at the base of +the mountain. This old town is one of the most famous on the river, not +only for its wines but for the legend of the beautiful Gisela, who was +commanded by her father to become a nun in fulfillment of his vow made +in Palestine during the crusade against the Saracens. The maiden had a +lover, and finding that no entreaties could save her from her fate, +Gisela leaped from a tower into the river, and the fishermen declare +that her spirit still lingers about the Bingerloch, and her voice is +often heard amid the rushing torrent. + +The first vineyards here are said to have been planted by Charlemagne, +who observed that the snow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the +town than from other regions in the neighborhood. The Ruedesheimer Berg +is covered with walls and arches, and terrace rises above terrace, to +prevent the falling of the soil. + +We drive to the top of this charming hill whose sunny slopes are clothed +with vineyards. Upon the summit, as on most of the others in the +neighborhood, there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out, and here +one may remain and enjoy the pure air and enchanting views, for a day, a +week, or for the whole season. + +Here, too, is the National Monument, in describing which I will copy +the words of my guide book: + +"The National Monument on the Niederwald, erected in commemoration of +the unanimous rising of the people and the foundation of the new German +Empire in 1870-71, stands upon a projecting spur of the hill (980 feet +above the sea level; 740 feet above the Rhine), opposite Bingen, and is +conspicuous far and wide. It was begun in 1877 from the designs of +Professor Schilling of Dresden, and was inaugurated in 1883 in presence +of Emperor William I. and numerous other German princes. The huge +architectural basis is seventy-eight feet high, while the noble figure +of Germania, with the imperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword, an +emblem of the unity and strength of the empire, is thirty-three feet in +height. The principal relief on the side of the pedestal facing the +river, symbolizes the 'Wacht am Rhein.' It contains portraits of King +William of Prussia and other German princes and generals, together with +representatives of the troops from the different parts of Germany, with +the text of the famous song below; to the right and left are allegorical +figures of Peace and War, while below are Rhenus and Mosella, the latter +as the future guardian of the western frontier of the empire. The fine +reliefs on the sides of the pedestal represent the departure and the +return of the troops." + +We visit many of the most noted breweries and wine vaults in the +neighborhood. Those of Herr J. Hufnagel are the largest in this section +of the country. They are cut in the base of the mountain, and extend +inward many hundred feet. Here the choice wines are stored, many of the +enormous casks containing upwards of twenty thousand quarts. Hundreds of +barrels and hogsheads are seen; in fact every nook and corner of the +vault is filled, and so extensive is this subterranean apartment, that +avenues are made from one part to another, and along these we walk, the +guide bearing a lamp to light the way. + +After visiting these great storerooms, we are invited to the hotel of +the proprietor, which is close by, and on the porch we are served with +an enjoyable lunch flavored with choice German wine. + +There is a beautiful drive along the river bank, and if one is tired, he +may stop at one of the inviting restaurants in this neighborhood, and +while resting and refreshing himself, look out at the tourists and +others passing along the wide airy street, or as is a common custom, he +may have his luncheon served upon the porch, from which there is a +delightful and extended view of the Rhine. With plenty of shade and +comfortable chairs, and the beautiful river before us, how swiftly the +time passes! Sometimes, in consequence of our ignorance of the language, +laughable mistakes are made in the ordering of our meals, which seem to +increase the jollity of both the waiters and our party. On one of these +occasions, while eating our luncheon in the open air, a band of eight or +ten street musicians station themselves upon the porch but a few feet +from us. They are healthy, hearty-looking men, but contrary to our +previous experience in this country, they play the most inharmonious +airs. We endure this for a short time, then as the discordant sounds +become more and more annoying, we bestow upon the leader a number of +small coins, and entreat them to begone. They evidently misunderstand +us, and think, from our liberal contribution, that we appreciate their +efforts, for they continue their playing with increased vigor +and--discord. We do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters, so resign +ourselves to the situation. After repeating their repertoire, which +seems endless, with profuse smiling bows and thanks they leave us at +last to the peaceful enjoyment of the day. + +The Niederberg is a massive rectangular castle whose three vaulted +stories, belonging to the twelfth century, were joined to the remains of +a structure of earlier date. It was originally the seat of the Knights +of Ruedesheim, who were compelled to become vassals of the Archbishop of +Mayence for brigandage. + +At Ruedesheim begins the Rheingau, which is the very "vineyard" of this +country. Here every foot of ground is cultivated, and the grape is the +monarch of the land. All the hillsides are covered with the vines, and +here in the midst of the verdure appears the picturesque villa of the +planter or wine merchant. It is a rich and beautiful region. + +From Bingen and Ruedesheim we go to Frankfort-on-the-Main. This town +which has witnessed the coronation of many of the German emperors, is +noted for its ancient legends, and to one of these it is said it owes +its name. This is the story: Charlemagne, having penetrated into the +forests to wage war against the Saxons, was once compelled to retreat +with his brave Franks. A heavy fog lay over the country which was +unknown to him. Fearing that his little army would be cut to pieces if +he lingered, and unable to see more than a few feet ahead of him, +Charlemagne prayed to the Lord for help and guidance. The next moment +the heavy fog parted, and the emperor saw a doe leading her young +through the stream. He instantly called to his men, and they forded the +river in safety. The fog closed behind them and hid them from the +pursuing enemy. + +In commemoration of his deliverance, Charlemagne called the place +Frankford (the ford of the Franks), and the city which grew up shortly +afterward retained the name. + +This, one of the important cities of Germany, is said to have been a +small Roman military station in the first century, A. D. + +It is first mentioned as Franconoford and the seat of the royal +residence in 793; and the following year Charlemagne held a convocation +of bishops and dignitaries of the empire here. The town attained such a +degree of prosperity that in 876, at the death of Lewis the German, it +was looked upon as the capital of the east Franconian Empire. On the +dissolution of the empire in 1806, Frankfort was made over to the +Primate of the Rhenish Confederation, and in 1810 it became the capital +of the grand-duchy of Frankfort. + +It was one of the four free cities of the German Confederation, and the +seat of the Diet from 1815 to 1866, in which year it passed to Prussia. +To-day we find it a handsome city of two hundred and twenty-nine +thousand inhabitants, with beautiful streets, stately houses surrounded +by lovely gardens, and fine stores, parks, monuments and many +attractions for the tourist. Here are churches, theatres, libraries and +museums, and an opera house which will accommodate two thousand +spectators. + +In the Rossmarkt stands the monument of Gutenberg, which consists of +three figures, Gutenberg in the centre with Fust and Schoffer on either +side, upon a large sandstone pedestal. On the frieze are portrait heads +of celebrated printers, and in the niches beneath are the arms of the +four towns where printing was first practiced: Mayence, Frankfort, +Venice and Strassburg. Around the base are figures representing +Theology, Poetry, Natural Science and Industry. This monument was +erected in 1858. + +This is the birthplace of Goethe, and here is the house in which the +poet was born, with its inscription recording that event, (August 28, +1749). The handsome monument of Goethe, erected in 1844, twelve years +after his death adorns the Goethe-Platz. The pedestal of the monument +bears allegorical figures in relief in front, while on the sides are +figures from the poems of the great writer. + +There are twenty-three thousand Jews in Frankfort, and in the quarter to +which these people are limited, we are shown the house in which the +Senior Rothschild was born. It is an unassuming brick building of three +stories, in good repair. As I gaze upon this modest dwelling, I think of +the man who from such unpromising beginning, became the founder of the +greatest financial firm the world has known. + +There is a stone effigy of Luther not far from the Cathedral, in memory +of a tradition that the great reformer preached a sermon here on his +journey to Worms. It is true that these associations are to be found in +almost every European town; but none the less are we impressed as we +stand before the monuments of the great ones of the earth--the men who +have left their indelible marks--"footprints on the sands of time +"--which the years have no power to efface. These men must have truly +lived. + + "He most lives + Who thinks most, feels the noblest, acts the best." + +The Cathedral of Frankford is a conspicuous edifice towering above the +other buildings, quaint and picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in +many of its details. From the platform of the tower, one may have a +beautiful view of the city, with its thick border of trees, and of the +fields and meadows beyond along the shining waters of the Main. This +Church of St. Bartholomew was founded by Lewis the German in 852, and +was rebuilt in the Gothic style 1235-39. The different portions +represent various periods. The tower, left unfinished in 1512, now three +hundred and twelve feet high, was completed from the designs of the +architect which were discovered in the municipal archives. + + + + +A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort. + + + + +_A Prussian Capital and a Fashionable Resort._ + + We Start for Berlin--Mountain and Valley--Harvesters--Villages--A + Great City--Unter den Linden--Kroll Theatre and Garden--The City + Streets--Ostend--A Fashionable Watering Place--The Promenade--The + Kursaal--On the Beach--Bathing Machines--Studies for an Artist--The + Race Course--Sunday--The Winning Horse--Fickle Dame Fortune--The + English Channel--A Bureau of Information--Queenstown--An Irish + Lass--The Last Stop--The End of the Journey. + + +The journey from Frankfort to Berlin is through a pleasant and +interesting country. For many miles we look from the car windows upon an +undulating landscape: hills and valleys follow each other in rapid +succession as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a minute. Now +and then we pass men and women in the fields; and now young girls with +bare feet and short skirts busily raking the hay,--true pictures of +"Maud Muller on a summer day." And here is a whole group of "nut brown +maids" laughing merrily at their work, while over in a corner of the +field is the belle of the countryside listening shyly to the stalwart +young harvester who stands on the border of the adjoining meadow. + + "Her tresses loose behind + Play on her neck and wanton with the wind; + The rising blushes which her cheeks o'erspread + Are opening roses in the lily's bed." + +Now we pass the harvesters at rest, sitting under the green trees and +hedges with their dinner pails beside them. It is a pleasant, peaceful +picture. Here is a picturesque village with quaint looking houses, and a +little gurgling brook in the foreground. An echo from the distant +mountain answers the shrill whistle of our engine and we can see the +silvery cloud of smoke that follows us wander off to the right, then +fade away in misty fragments. In many of these settlements, there are +shaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed, and here the villagers +are sipping their beer, in happy social converse. + +The young people wave their hands and caps to us as we pass, and with +their bright costumes animate the lovely scenes which, although so close +to each other, are of such different character. At last we reach Berlin, +and our great iron horse stands puffing in the station, defying man to +detect upon him any sign of exhaustion. + +In this large city entertainment can be found for people of every kind +and taste. The street known throughout the world as Unter-den-Linden is +a splendid avenue, one hundred and sixty-five feet in width, and takes +its name from the double row of linden trees with which it is +ornamented. It is the busiest portion of the city, contains handsome +hotels, beautiful palaces, large shops, and many fine statues of +celebrated men. + +The first day or two after your arrival in the city, engage a carriage +and take in the general appearance of the city, its parks and suburbs; +then visit the art galleries, museums, palaces and churches until the +brain becomes accustomed to the bewildering array of subjects which +demand attention. Stroll quietly along Unter-den-Linden stopping now and +then at one of the many stores which line this beautiful avenue. At one +end of this thoroughfare is the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, a sort of +triumphal arch. It is a fine structure, two hundred feet wide and +seventy-five feet high, supported by Doric columns. There are five +entrances, the central one being reserved for the passage of members of +the royal family. + +The Kroll Theatre and Gardens are a popular resort for the people of +Berlin. These gardens are illuminated every evening by thousands of +electric lights, arranged in various designs, as flowers, harps and +other graceful forms, and this illuminated scene is the centre of a gay +throng of pleasure seekers, who promenade the paths, or sit about in +groups listening to the music of the fine orchestras stationed at each +end of the spacious grounds. The entertainment is not over until a very +late hour. + +There are a number of these gardens throughout the city, which are not, +as may be supposed, frequented by the lower classes of the people, but +by persons of every rank in society. One can hardly appreciate this +scene without having passed an evening amid its light-hearted crowds. +Here may be seen officers of many honors, with conspicuous gold and +silver badges, mingling with the groups gathered around the tables, or +sauntering up and down the garden walks, as well as the private soldier +in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer with his sweetheart by his +side. Title and rank here as well as elsewhere throughout Germany, are +honored and respected by all classes, and the salute is gracefully made +whenever one of the army or navy men meets his superior officer. + +[Illustration: "Thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this +promenade." (_See page 343._)] + +Berlin with its life and gayety, its grandeur and simplicity, its +hospitality and good cheer, captivates our hearts, and we enter +joyously into the many diversions it offers; as we sit among the honest +and kind-hearted people, we feel the charm of their social atmosphere +and wonder why other nations do not allow themselves more time for +relaxation and the simple pleasures which abound here. + +The Friedrichs-Strasse is the longest street in the city: it is well +laid out, and contains many handsome stores. Wilhelms-Strasse is a +beautiful avenue, and is considered the most aristocratic street in +Berlin, as it contains the palaces of princes, ministers and other +distinguished personages. A handsome square opens from this avenue, +ornamented with flower-beds and fine statuary. + +The museums here are called the Old Museum and the New Museum; they are +connected by a passage gallery. The entrance to the Old Museum is +adorned by handsome statuary, and the grand portico is beautifully +painted with allegorical and mythological subjects: within, the walls +are decorated with frescoes representing barbarous and civilized life, +and in the great rotunda are ancient statues of gods and goddesses. From +this one passes to the Gallery of Gods and Heroes, the Grecian cabinet, +the Hall of the Emperors, and that of Greek, Roman and Assyrian +sculptures. But it is vain to attempt a description of this vast +collection of paintings, and other works of art in the short space I +have to devote to the subject. To appreciate a collection of this kind, +one should visit it in person. + +The Thiergarten is a great park, two miles long, beautifully laid out, +and containing many splendid old trees, rustic paths, and artificial +ponds and streams. The grounds are ornamented with statuary, and the +fine zooelogical collection is in good condition and well arranged. But +we must leave fascinating Berlin, and pass on to other scenes. + +Now we reach Ostend on the coast of Belgium, one of the most fashionable +watering-places of Europe. During the season it attracts thousands of +visitors, especially from Belgium and Holland. It was originally a +fishing station, but was enlarged by Philip the Good, and fortified by +the Prince of Orange in 1583. In the early part of the seventeenth +century it sustained one of the most remarkable sieges on record, +holding out against the Spanish for a period of three years, and finally +surrendering only at the command of the States General. + +[Illustration: "There are many odd and fantastic sights here." (_See +page 347._)] + +To-day promenades take the places of the old fortifications, and +handsome residences stand where the simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt +in their cottages. The tide of fashion rolls where a simple people +lived their daily life of care and toil. Here congregate people of every +nation, the old and the young; and the cosmopolitan character of the +promenade is a source of great entertainment to the stranger. As we +approach the Digue or chief promenade, which is elevated fully a hundred +feet above the beach, we are struck with the beauty of this grand +esplanade, a hundred feet wide and extending miles along the shore. On +the city side are many handsome buildings; residences, hotels, cafes and +some stores. These buildings occupy a space fully a mile in length, but +the promenade with its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many miles. +Chairs and benches are placed at convenient intervals for the use of the +public, and every day, especially in the afternoon, thousands of +fashionably dressed people appear upon this walk, rejoicing in the +opportunity to display elaborate gowns; some by strolling to and fro +before the benches and chairs, and others by more ostentatiously driving +by in handsome equipages, with coachmen and footmen in appropriate +livery. + +Yet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening, listening to the +harmonious melody of the sea, as it mingles its voice with the strains +of a fine orchestra, and watching the merry throng passing and +repassing. The silent night afar out on the glistening waters seems like +a brooding spirit. + + "Thou boundless, shining, glorious sea, + With ecstasy I gaze on thee; + And as I gaze, thy billowy roll + Wakes the deep feelings of my soul." + +We extend our walk and take in the Kursaal, a handsome structure of +marble and iron built upon the side of the promenade. It covers a large +area, and within its walls, the sounds of choice music are constantly +heard. Dances, concerts and many other forms of entertainment keep this +fashionable resort in a whirl both day and night. On many of these +occasions the dressing is the most important feature of the affair. The +people who resort thither are families of considerable wealth, and can, +when they choose, run to extremes in paying court to Dame Fashion. + +[Illustration: "One's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting +subjects." (_See page 347._)] + +Let us descend about noon, by the long low steps, from the promenade to +the beach below, and here we will find a long unbroken line of wagons +facing the sea. These wagons have large numbers painted conspicuously on +their backs: upon one side is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn, +and a pair of strong shafts is attached to each vehicle. The stranger +will wonder what on earth these unsightly things are designed for, and +why they thus mar the beauty of the beach. Have patience; inexperienced +stranger, and you will see these inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks +and now one, now another be hauled rapidly forward, some to the water's +edge, others into the ocean up to the hubs. In explanation of this I +would state that when the bathing hour arrives, a horse is attached to +each wagon, and the occupant or occupants, when it reaches the water's +edge, open the door and spring forth a nymph and her companions, in +their scant bathing robes, ready for the plunge. The costumes of both +men and women are not such as find favor with fastidious mortals, and +many of the scenes witnessed on this beach would not be tolerated at any +of our American watering-places. + +It is quite common for men, women and children to remove their shoes and +stockings and wade ankle deep in the surf. + +However, there are many odd and fantastic sights here, and many pretty +tableaux on the beach which would delight the eyes of an artist, and I +often think that one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting +subjects. + +As the races are to be held this afternoon at the Course, a mile beyond +the Kursaal, and just off the promenade, we wend our way thither. The +race-course is similar to those in England and France. As the appointed +hour approaches, a throng of fashionable people seat themselves upon the +grand stand, until every place is filled, and even the aisles are +crowded with the elite of Ostend. + +I forgot to mention the fact that the day is Sunday, but this seems to +make little difference to these gayety-loving people. + +The horses start, and now betting and excitement go hand in hand. + + "Some play for gain: to pass time, others play + For nothing; both do play the fool." + +I have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion, of predicting the +winning horse a number of consecutive times in my conversation with one +of our party who sits beside me. These lucky guesses attract the +attention of a stranger who is on my other side, and considering them as +so many evidences of remarkable judgment or knowledge, he resolves to +profit thereby. Accordingly before the next running, as the horses walk +slowly before the spectators and the judges' stand, the man quietly asks +me to name the winner in the next race. I quickly make a choice and +mention the horse's name. The stranger bids me good-day and hastens away +to place his "pile" with some bookmaker on the identical horse which I +have named. + +[Illustration: "Many typical Irish characters come aboard our vessel." +(_See page 353._)] + +With a rush of spirit and courage the noble animals fly over the course, +and every jockey seated in a saddle looks determined to win. Faster and +faster they urge the flying steeds with spur and voice, and the animals +themselves, with distended nostrils and steaming breath dash past the +judges' stand in frenzied effort. The merry jingle of the bell proclaims +that the goal is reached: the great sign-board with the winner's name +upon it is visible to all. What has become of my luck? And what has +become of the stranger who relied on my judgment a few moments ago? My +horse has lost. Goodness! I feel as though I have committed a crime, and +I am very sure that Dame Fortune receives from me in private a score of +epithets, not the most complimentary in the world for her unprincipled +desertion. I feel sure that if I had my instantaneous camera, or pencil +handy, this disappointed man's face would make a foreground in the +picture that would surely be a "_winner_." + +We leave Ostend on the steamer La Flandre. The schedule time is 10:40 A. +M. We go on board amid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on +shore. As it is a clear bright day with a delightful salt breeze, there +is much pleasure in sitting on deck and enjoying the view. The English +Channel is generally a turbulent body of water, noted for its many +victories over the unfortunates who trust themselves in its power, but +to-day it is mild and calm, probably plotting mischief to the next boat +load of passengers that shall come its way. + +Indescribable confusion reigns in our hotel, at Liverpool, for more than +a hundred of its guests are on the point of sailing for America. +Innumerable packages, grips, umbrellas and walking sticks line the +corridors. Every one is moving to and fro in hot haste. One lady asks me +if I know at what hour the steamer on which she has taken passage will +sail: another wants information in regard to her steamer: a man with +perspiration trickling down his face begs me to tell him how to send his +five trunks and other baggage to the landing stage. These and many more +annoying and importunate people make life a burden to me. I do not know +why they choose me to share in their misery. Do I look like a walking +bureau of information, I wonder! If I do, I shall learn how to change my +expression. But in truth the faces of these bewildered people are a +study, and I am genuinely sorry for them. + +The steamer cuts loose from her moorings, and moves gracefully out into +the great ocean. As we approach Queenstown, we observe the small farms +and dwellings close to the edge of the water. Then the lighthouse and +the forts which guard the entrance to the harbor come into view, and now +we drop anchor and wait for passengers and the mails. A little steam tug +becomes visible, and as she draws nearer, we learn that she is bearing +the mails and passengers to our ship. At last she is close beside us, +and when made fast, the transfer takes place. Now is the time for the +camera or sketch book, for many typical Irish characters come aboard our +vessel, with strange, half-frightened faces, and their worldly +belongings carried on their backs, or clutched tightly in their hands. +Among the group I notice a middle-aged woman with a young pig nestling +peacefully under her arm. Whether it is a pet, or simply a piece of live +stock to begin housekeeping with in the new country, I cannot say, but +with a contented expression on both faces, Bridget and her pig disappear +into the special quarters which are reserved for the emigrants. This +whole scene is very interesting. The old-fashioned black glazed +oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspicuous part in the picture, and here +and there are seen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs and +carried on the end of a stick, which is slung over the shoulder, while +the corduroy knee breeches, woollen stockings, heavy shoes and +pea-jackets with caps to match give us a fine representation of the +Irishman on his native heath. + +Several small boats are floating at our side: from one of these a rope +is thrown to a sailor on our deck, and a bright and comely Irish girl +climbs nimbly up, hand over hand, and stands among the cabin passengers. +With quick, deft movements she pulls up a basket filled with Irish +knickknacks, such as pipes, crosses, pigs, spoons and forks made of +bog-wood; these, with knit shawls and similar articles, she displays on +deck, and it would be difficult to find a prettier, wittier, more +attractive specimen of old Ireland's lasses than this. By means of her +ready tongue she disposes of all her wares, and when the whistle warns +all hands to leave the deck, she glides gracefully down the rope, and +settling herself in her little boat, pulls for the shore. + +[Illustration: "Several small boats are floating at our side." (_See +page 354._)] + +This is our last stop until we reach New York. The anchor is pulled up, +and away we go steaming on our homeward voyage. The little steam tug +runs along beside us for a time, then the whistles of both vessels +blow a farewell to each other, and our little comrade gradually fades +from our sight. + +Suddenly a heavy fog comes up, and the incessant blowing of the fog-horn +is a tiresome sound: but the wind follows up the mist and scatters it +far and wide, and now we have the boundless prospect of the ocean before +us. + + "Strongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows, + Nothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the ocean." + +As we gaze upon it day after day, its beauty and grandeur grow upon us +more and more. I can think of no better words than those of Childe +Harold which so beautifully express the thoughts the scene inspires. + + "Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll. + Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain; + Man marks the earth with ruin--his control + Stops with the shore; upon the watery plain + The wrecks are all thy deeds, nor doth remain + A shadow of man's ravage, save his own, + When, for a moment, like a drop of rain, + He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan, + Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined and unknown." + +Then, as if by magic, the huge waves lessen in their angry murmurs, the +surface becomes quiet and calm; evening creeps on, and the glow from a +descending sun illuminates the scene. As I look upon this beautiful and +restful picture, I think how true the words: + + "Beyond is all abyss, + Eternity, whose end no eye can reach." + + + + +_The reading of this book has no doubt been a pleasure and a profit to +you. Then why not recommend it to your friends? You will find cards on +the inside of the back cover to assist you._ + +[Illustration: "Beyond is all abyss, Eternity, whose end no eye can +reach." (_See page 358._)] + + + + + BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS + + British Isles through an Opera Glass + By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr. + + Author of "Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan." With 48 full-page + illustrations, principally from photographs. Crown 8vo, about 350 + pages, deckle edge paper, cloth jacket, in box, $2.00. + + +What is said of "The British Isles" + +Mr. Taylor has the knack of making the story of his journeyings +entertaining to the public. The usual descriptions of time-worn scenes +give place to charming personal narrative, and a wealth of incident and +episode gives to the book an exceptional interest. The fine half-tones +of English scenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance +its charm.--_The Philadelphia Call._ + +It is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of +travel, not only in England, but in Scotland and Ireland. The author +takes little from the guide books and their familiar histories, but +notes many interesting details that attracted his own attention. +Furthermore he has illustrated his book with a large number of +photographs, both of places and people, that are quite out of the common +run, and the pictures alone would suffice to give the volume +distinction.--_The Philadelphia Times._ + +The book is all the eye could wish, and as we turn the pages quickly +from one to another of the forty-eight beautiful photographic +illustrations a veritable panorama passes before us. The author is +enthusiastic over what he saw in the British Isles, and he is evidently +desirous of sharing his pleasure with those who have not been privileged +to see for themselves.--_The Philadelphia American._ + +It is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who +knows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love +travel would like to be.--_The Bookseller._ + +Mr. Taylor traveled through the British Isles with an observing eye, a +ready note-book, and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence. +The narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote, while the +personal point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy. The +volume is beautifully made, and the photographs, about fifty in number, +are particularly well reproduced in half-tones--_The Philadelphia +Press._ + +For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price +by the publishers + + GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO. + + 103-105 South Fifteenth Street Philadelphia, Pa. + + + + + BY THE AUTHOR OF ODD BITS + + Vacation Days in Hawaii and Japan + By CHARLES M. TAYLOR, Jr. + + With over 100 half-tone illustrations, principally from photographs. + Crown 8vo. 361 pages, gilt top, uncut edges. With unique cover design. + Price, $2.00. + + +What is said of "Vacation Days" + +Mr. Taylor is a keen observer, who penetrated beyond the beaten track of +the usual tourist, and his sketches of Home Life, Natural Beauties and +Every-day scenes, have individuality and charm.--_Literary News._ + +The narrative is written in a clear, easy style, with an aptitude for +giving just that kind of information concerning everyday life which +people miss too often in books of travel.--_Philadelphia Press._ + +A very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from +photographs taken by the author of "Japanese people," men, women and +children, engaged at their ordinary vocations, also pictures of Japanese +scenery, shops, living rooms and temples. These illustrations are +remarkable for their realism.--_Indianapolis Journal._ + +The book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through Hawaii and +Japan. The special value of the narrative is that it covers points of +interest in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded +in the guide books and ordinary books of travel.---_The Philadelphia +Call._ + +A four months' trip through Hawaii and Japan is narrated in this compact +and entertaining volume. Mr. Taylor applies systematic methods to his +sight-seeing. He is an appreciative observer as well. He was not content +with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear, picturesque and +fresh.--_The Philadelphia Ledger._ + +Two conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average in +its class; it describes new grounds and scenes, and the narrative +ripples along with the ease and liveliness of a brook. Without +professing to be specially instructive, Mr. Taylor conveys a great +amount of information such as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant +way, blending the matter of fact with the entertaining.--_The +Philadelphia American._ + +For sale by all booksellers, or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price +by the publishers + + GEORGE W. JACOBS & CO. + + 103-105 South Fifteenth Street Philadelphia, Pa. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Odd Bits of Travel with Brush and +Camera, by Charles M. 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