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diff --git a/old/36126.txt b/old/36126.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d23dcf --- /dev/null +++ b/old/36126.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2203 @@ +Project Gutenberg's A Journey to Ohio in 1810, by Margaret van Horn Dwight + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Journey to Ohio in 1810 + As Recorded in the Journal of Margaret van Horn Dwight + +Author: Margaret van Horn Dwight + +Editor: Max Farrand + +Release Date: May 16, 2011 [EBook #36126] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO OHIO IN 1810 *** + + + + +Produced by Carla Foust and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + +Transcriber's note + + +Minor punctuation errors have been changed without notice. Printer +errors have been changed and are listed at the end. All other +inconsistencies are as in the original. + +Characters that could not be displayed directly in Latin-1 are +transcribed as follows: + + _ - italics + + ^ - superscript + + + + + YALE + HISTORICAL MANUSCRIPTS + + I + + PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE + DEPARTMENT OF HISTORY + FROM THE INCOME OF + + THE FREDERICK JOHN KINGSBURY + MEMORIAL FUND + + + + + A + Journey to Ohio + in 1810 + + + + As Recorded in the Journal of + MARGARET VAN HORN DWIGHT + + Edited with an Introduction by + MAX FARRAND + + New Haven + YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS + Printed in the United States of America + + First published, October, 1912 + Second printing, December, 1912 + Third printing, December, 1913 + Fourth printing, April, 1920 + Fifth printing, October, 1933 + +All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, in whole or in +part, in any form (except by reviewers for the public press), without +written permission from the publishers. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +"If it be true that good wine needs no bush, 'tis true that a good play +needs no epilogue;" and Rosalind might well have added that a good story +needs no prologue. The present journal is complete in itself, and it is +such a perfect gem, that it seems a pity to mar its beauty by giving it +any but the simplest setting. There are many readers, however, with +enough human interest to wish to know who Rosalind really was, and to be +assured that she "married and lived happily ever after." That is the +reason for this introduction. + +Margaret Van Horn Dwight was born on December 29, 1790. She was the +daughter of Doctor Maurice William Dwight, a brother of President +Timothy Dwight of Yale, and Margaret (DeWitt) Dwight. The death of her +father in 1796, and the subsequent marriage of her mother, was probably +the reason for Margaret Dwight being taken by her grandmother, Mary +Edwards Dwight, a daughter of Jonathan Edwards, who trained her as her +own child in her family in Northampton. The death of her grandmother, +February 7, 1807, was the occasion of her going to live in New Haven in +the family of her aunt, Elizabeth Dwight, who had married William Walton +Woolsey, and whose son was President Theodore Woolsey. + +Three years later, in 1810, Margaret Dwight left New Haven to go to her +cousins in Warren, Ohio. It was doubtless there that she met Mr. Bell, +whom she married, December 17, 1811, a year after her arrival. William +Bell, Jr., was born in Ireland, February 11, 1781, and after 1815 he was +a wholesale merchant in Pittsburgh. + +The family genealogy formally records that Margaret Dwight Bell became +the mother of thirteen children, that she died on October 9, 1834, and +that she was "a lady of remarkable sweetness and excellence, and +devotedly religious." Family tradition adds a personal touch in relating +that her home was a center of hospitality and that she herself was +active and very vivacious. + +The journal of the rough wagon trip to Ohio in 1810 was evidently kept +by Margaret Dwight in fulfilment of a promise to her cousin, Elizabeth +Woolsey, to whom it was sent as soon as the journey was over. A good +many years later the journal was given to a son of the author, and the +original is now in the possession of a granddaughter, Miss Katharine +Reynolds Wishart of Waterford, Pennsylvania. It has been well cared for +and is in excellent condition, except that the first two pages are +missing. This is of less importance from the fact that two independent +copies had been made. The text of the journal here printed is taken from +the original manuscript, and is reproduced as accurately as +typographical devices permit. + + MAX FARRAND. + + + + +A JOURNEY TO OHIO + + + + +Milford Friday Eve. at Capt Pond's. + + +Shall I commence my journal, my dear Elizabeth, with a description of +the pain I felt at taking leave of all my friends, or shall I leave you +to imagine?--The afternoon has been spent by me in the most painful +reflections & in almost total silence by my companions- I have thought +of a thousand things unsaid, a thousand kindnesses unpaid with thanks +that I ought to have remembered more seasonably; and the neglect of +which causes me many uneasy feelings- my neglecting to take leave of +Sally, has had the same effect- I hope she did not feel hurt by it, for +it proceeded from no want of gratitude for her kindness to me. I did not +imagine parting with any friend could be so distressing as I found +leaving your Mama. I did not know till then, how much I loved her & +could I at that moment have retraced my steps! but it was too late to +repent-- Deacon Wolcott & his wife are very kind, obliging, people, & +Miss Wolcott is a very pleasant companion, I do not know what I should +do without her. We came on to Butler's this afternoon & I came +immediately down to Uncle Pond's & drank tea. Miss W. came with me & +both Uncle & Aunt invited her to stay and sleep with me, which she +accordingly did. Cousin Patty has been with me, to say good bye, to all +my friends, & to-morrow we proceed to Stamford. + + + + +Sat. night, D. Nash's Inn. Middlesex- + + +We had a cold, unsociable ride today, each one of us being occupied in +thinking of the friends we had left behind & of the distance, which was +every moment increasing, between them & us. Mrs W has left an aged +father in the last stages of consumption, that was a sufficient excuse +for silence on her part. Mr W. made several attempts to dispel & by kind +words & _phebeish_[A] looks but without success; he appears to be a very +fond husband. We stopt to _eat oats_ at a Tavern in Fairfield, West +Farms, an old Lady came into the room where Miss W. (whose name, by the +way, is Susan, not Hannah, Sally, or Abby) & we were sitting. "Well! +Gals where are you going?" "To New Connecticut" "You bant tho- To New +Connecticut? Why what a long journey! do you ever expect to get there? +How far is it?" "Near 600 miles" "Well Gals, you Gals & your husbands +with you?" "No Ma'am"- "Not got your husbands! Well I don't know- they +say there's wild Indians there!" The poor woman was then call'd out to +her daughter (the mistress of the house) who she told us has been ill +five months with a swelling & she had come that afternoon to see it +_launch'd_ by the Physicians who were then in the house-- She went out +but soon return'd & told us they were "cutting her poor child all to +pieces"- She did not know but she should as lieve see a wild Indian as +to see that scene over again-- I felt very sorry for the poor old Lady- +I could not help smiling at the comparison. The country we pass thro' +till we are beyond N. York, I need not describe to you, nor indeed could +I; for I am attended by a very unpleasant tho' not uncommon, companion- +one to whom I have bow'd in subjection ever since I left you-Pride-- It +has entirely prevented my seeing the country lest I should be known-- +You will cry "for shame" & so did I but it did no good- I could neither +shame nor reason it away, & so I suppose it will attend me to the +mountains, then I am sure it will bid me adieu- "for you know the +proverb" 'pride dwelleth not among the mountains'- I don't certainly +know where this proverb is to be found, but Julia can tell you- for if I +mistake not it is on the next page to "There is nothing sweet" &c- I do +not find it so unpleasant riding in a waggon as I expected-nor am I very +much fatigued with it- but four weeks to ride all the time, is +fatigueing to think of- We came on to Nash's tavern where we found no +company excepting one gentleman who looks like a D^r Susannah (M^r +Nash's granddaughter) says he is a "particular bit" one who likes good +eating & a great deal of waiting upon, better than he likes to pay for +it- Here we stay over the Sabbath. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Footnote A: For the description at the word _Phebeish_, the reader is +referred to Miss Julia.] + + + + +Sunday eve-- + + +This morning Susannah came & invited us to attend meeting- we at first +refused but I afterwards chang'd my mind, & "took a notion" (as Susannah +told her friends to whom she did me the honour to introduce me) to go- +so taking an apple to eat on the road we set out for the church- It was +"situated on an eminence" but was a small old wooden building-The +minister; who I found was brother to M^r Fisher, Susannah told me was +not very well liked by some "he hadn't so good a gait to deliver his +sermons as some," but she believ'd he was a very serious good man- She +then gave me his history but I cannot spend time to give it to you- - +The sermon had nothing very striking in it but if I had time I would +write you the text heads &c just to let you see I remember it, though I +fear it has done me no good for I heard it like a stranger and did not +realize that I was interested in it _at_ all- I was entirely of +Susannah's opinion respecting the preacher, for I thought his "gait to +deliver" was better than his voice, for he has a most terrible _nasal +twang_--Before we got home at noon, I had found out the squire & half +the parish, Susannah's history & many other _interesting_ things which I +have almost forgotten--I saw 4 or 5 well dress'd good looking girls, & +as many young men answering the first part of the description, one of +whom was chorister- & another, from the resemblance he bears them, I +imagine must be brother to Miss Haines or the N York Sexton---- I went +all day to meeting & am now very tir'd, for our walk was a very long +one, I should think almost 2 miles each way which would make almost 4 +miles for one poor sermon---- + + + + +October 22- Monday- Cook's inn--County West Chester-- + + +I never will go to New Connecticut with a _Deacon_ again, for we put up +at every byeplace in the country to _save expence_- It is very grating +to my pride to go into a tavern & furnish & cook my own provision- to +ride in a wagon &c &c- but that I can possibly get along with- but to be +oblig'd to pass the night in such a place as we are now in, just because +it is a little cheaper, is more than I am willing to do- I should even +rather drink clear rum out of the wooden bottle after the deacon has +drank & wip'd it over with his band, than to stay here another night-- +The house is very small & very dirty- it serves for a tavern, a store, & +I should imagine hog's pen stable & every thing else- The air is so +impure I have scarcely been able to swallow since I enter'd the house- +The landlady is a fat, dirty, ugly looking creature, yet I must confess +very obliging- She has a very suspicious countenance & I am very afraid +of her- She seems to be master, as well as mistress & storekeeper, & +from the great noise she has been making directly under me for this half +hour, I suspect she has been "stoning the raisins & watering the rum"- +All the evening there has been a store full of noisy drunken fellows, +yet M^r Wolcott could not be persuaded to bring in but a small part of +the baggage, & has left it in the waggon before the door, as handy as +possible- Miss W's trunk is in the bar-room unlock'd the key being +broken today- it contains a bag of money of her father's, yet she could +not persuade him to bring it up stairs-- I feel so uneasy I cannot sleep +& had therefore rather write than not this hour- some one has just gone +below stairs after being as I suppos'd in bed this some time- for what +purpose I know not-unless to go to our trunks or waggon- the old woman, +(for it was her who went down,) tells me I must put out my candle so +good night---- Tuesday Morn--I went to bed last night with fear & +trembling, & feel truly glad to wake up & find myself alive & well- if +our property is all safe, we shall have double cause to be thankful-- +The old woman kept walking about after I was in bed, & I then heard her +in close confab with her husband a long time-- Our room is just large +enough to contain a bed a chair & a very small stand- our bed has one +brown sheet & one pillow- the sheet however appear'd to be clean, which +was more than we got at Nash's- there we were all oblig'd to sleep in +the same room without curtains or any other screen- & our sheets there +were so dirty I felt afraid to sleep in them- We were not much in favor +at our first arrival there; but before we left them, they appear'd quite +to like us- & I don't know why they should not, for we were all very +clever, notwithstanding we rode in a waggon-- M^rs Nash said she should +reckon on't to see us again (Miss W & me) so I told her that in 3 years +she might expect to see me- She said I should never come back alone, +that I would certainly be married in a little while- but I am now more +than ever determin'd not to oblige myself to spend my days there, by +marrying should I even have an opport^y-- I am oblig'd to write every +way so you must not wonder at the badness of the writing- I am now in +bed & writing in my lap- Susan has gone to see if our baggage is in +order-- I hear the old woman's voice talking to the good deacon- & an "I +beg your pardon" comes out at every breath almost--Oh I cannot bear to +see her again she is such a disgusting object-- The men have been +swearing & laughing in the store under me this hour- & the air of my +room is so intolerable, that I must quit my writing to go in search of +some that is _breathable_- I don't know how far I shall be oblig'd to go +for it- but there is none very near I am certain-- Having a few moments +more to spare before we set out, with my book still in my lap, I hasten +to tell you we found everything perfectly safe, & I believe I wrong'd +them all by suspicions--The house by day light looks worse then ever- +every kind of thing in the room where they live- a chicken half pick'd +hangs over the door- & pots, kettles, dirty dishes, potatoe barrels- & +every thing else- & the old woman- it is beyond my power to describe +her- but she & her husband & both very kind & obliging- it is as much as +a body's life is worth to go near them-- The air has already had a +medicinal effect upon me-- I feel as if I had taken an emetic- & should +stay till night I most certainly should be oblig'd to take my bed, & +that would be certain death-- I did not think I could eat in the house- +but I did not dare refuse- the good deacon nor his wife did not mind it, +so I thought I must not-- The old creature sits by eating, & we are just +going to my great joy so good bye, good bye till to-night---- + + + + +Tuesday Noon- Ferry House near State Prison- + + +It has been very cold & dusty riding to day-- We have met with no +adventure yet, of any kind-- We are now waiting at the ferry house to +cross the river as soon as wind & tide serve- The white waves foam +terribly how we shall get across I know not, but I am in great fear- If +we drown there will be an end of my journal---- + + + + +Hobuck, Wednesday Morn-Buskirck's Inn-- + + +After waiting 3 or 4 hours at the ferry house, we with great difficulty +cross'd the ferry & I, standing brac'd against one side of the boat +involuntarily endeavouring to balance it with my weight & groaning at +every fresh breeze as I watch'd the side which almost dipt in the water- +& the ferrymen swearing at every breath- M^r, M^{rs} & Miss Wolcott +viewing the city and vainly wishing they had improv'd the time of our +delay to take a nearer view---- At length we reach'd this shore almost +frozen- The Ferry is a mile & an half wide-- I was too fatigued to +write last night & soon after we came retired to bed- We were again +oblig'd all to sleep in one room & in dirty sheets- but pass'd the night +very comfortably--If good wishes have any influence, we shall reach our +journey's end in peace- for we obtain them from everyone-- The morning +is pleasant & we are soon to ride----M^{rs} Buskirck the landlady, I +should imagine is about 60 years of age & she sits by with a three year +old child in her lap- She wears a long ear'd cap & looks so old I +thought she must be Grandmother till I enquir'd-- + + + + +Springfield-New Jersey- Pierson's Inn-Wed^y-PM 4 oclock- + + +"What is every body's business is no body's" for instance- it is +nobody's business where we are going, yet every body enquires- every +toll gatherer & child that sees us---- I am almost discouraged- we shall +never get to New Connecticut or any where else, at the rate we go on- We +went but eleven miles yesterday & 15 to day-- Our Waggon wants repairing +& we were oblig'd to put up for the night at about 3 oclock.---- I think +the country so far, much pleasanter than any part of Connecticut we +pass'd thro'-but the Turnpike roads are not half as good- The Deacon & +his family complain most bitterly of the gates & toll bridges- tho' the +former is very good-natur'd with his complaints-- Also the tavern +expenses are a great trouble- As I said before I will never go with a +Deacon again- for we go so slow & so cheap, that I am almost tir'd to +death. The horses walk, walk hour after hour while M^r W sits _reckoning +his expenses_ & forgetting to drive till some of us ask when we shall +get there?- then he remembers the longer we are on the road the more +_expensive_ it will be, & whips up his horses--and when Erastus the son, +drives, we go still slower for fear of hurting the horses-- Since I left +you I have conceived such an aversion for Doctors & the words, expense, +expensive, cheap & expect, that I do not desire ever to see the one (at +least to need them) or hear the others again, in my life-- I have just +found out that Elizabeth Town is but 5 miles off & have been to the +landlord to enquire if I cannot possibly get there & he encourages me a +little, I cannot write more till I am certain- Oh if I can but see my +brother! After a long crying spell, I once more take up my pen to tell +you I cannot go,- there is no chair or side saddle to be got, & I will, +by supposing him at New York, try to content myself- to describe my +disappointment would be impossible--it is such an agravation of my pain, +to know myself so near & then not see him-- I have the greater part of +the time till now, felt in better spirits than I expected-my journal has +been of use to me in that respect----I did not know but I should meet +with the same fate that a cousin of M^r Hall's did, who like me, was +journeying to a new, if not a western country- She was married on her +way & prevented from proceeding to her journey's end- There was a man to +day in Camptown where we stopt to eat, not oats but gingerbread, who +enquired, or rather _expected_ we were going to the Hio- we told him yes +& he at once concluded it was to get husbands- He said winter was coming +on & he wanted a wife & believ'd he must go there to get him one- I +concluded of course the next thing would be, a proposal to Miss W or me +to stay behind to save trouble for us both; but nothing would suit him +but a rich widow, so our hopes were soon at an end- Disappointment is +the lot of man & we may as well bear them with a good grace- this +thought restrain'd my tears at that time, but has not been able to +since-- What shall I do? My companions say they shall insist upon seeing +my journal & I certainly will not show it to them, so I told them I +would bring it with me the first time I came to Henshaw (the place where +they live) & read it to them; but I shall do my utmost to send it to you +before I go- that would be a sufficient excuse for not performing my +promise which must be conditional--I will not insist upon your reading +this thro' my dear Elizabeth & I suspect by this time you feel quite +willing to leave it unread further- I wish I could make it more +interesting-- I write just as I feel & think at the moment & I feel as +much in haste to write every thing that occurs, as if you could know it +the moment it was written- I must now leave you to write to my brother, +for if I cannot see him I will at least write him- I cannot bear the +idea of leaving the state without once more seeing him-- I hope next to +write you from 30 miles hence at least--Poor Susan feels worse to night +than me, & M^{rs} Wolcott to cheer us, tells us what we have yet to +expect- this you may be sure has the desir'd effect & raises our spirits +at once-- + + + + +Friday morn- Chester N J. + + +We left Springfield yesterday about nine oclock & came on to Chester +about 22 miles from Spring^d----Patience & perseverance will get us to N +C in time-but I fear we shall winter on our way there, for instead of +four weeks, I fear we shall be four times four---- We found an excellent +tavern here compar'd with any we have yet found, & we had for the first +time clean sheets to sleep in- We pass'd thro' Morristown yesterday, & +3 small villages- one called Chatham I do not know the names of the +others-- It is very hilly in N Jersey, & what is very strange, we appear +almost always to be going up hill, but like the squirrel, never rise 2 +inches higher- The hills look very handsomely at a little distance,- but +none of them are very high---- M^r & M^{rs} Wolcott, after telling us +every thing dreadful, they could think of, began encouraging us by +changing sides & relating the good as well as the bad- They are sure I +shall like Warren better than I expect & think I shall not regret going +in the least---- The weather yesterday was very pleasant, & is this +morning also- We wish to reach Easton to day, but I am sure we shall +not, for it is 32 miles distant- 5 or 600 hundred miles appears like a +short journey to me now- indeed I feel as if I could go almost any +distance- My courage & spirits & both very good--one week is already +gone of the 4-- I wish I could fly back to you a few minutes while we +are waiting---- + + + + +Mansfield-N J-Sat-morn October 27- + + +We yesterday travell'd the worst road you can imagine- over mountains & +thro' vallies- We have not I believe, had 20 rods of level ground the +whole day- and the road some part of it so intolerably bad on every +account, so rocky & so gullied, as to be almost impassable- 15 miles +this side Morristown, we cross'd a mountain call'd Schyler or something +like it- We walk'd up it, & M^{rs} W told us it was a little like some +of the mountains only not half so bad--indeed every difficulty we meet +with is compar'd to something worse that we have yet to expect- We found +a house built in the heart of the mountain near some springs- in a +romantic place-Whether the springs are medicinal or not, I do not know- +but I suspect they are, & that the house is built for the accommodation +of those who go to them- for no human creature, I am sure, would wish to +live there- Opposite the house are stairs on the side of the mountain & +a small house resembling a bathing house, at the head of them-- Soon +after we cross'd the mountain, we took a wrong road, owing to the +neglect of those whose duty it is to erect guide boards, & to some +awkward directions given-- This gave us a great deal of trouble, for we +were oblig'd in order to get right again, to go across a field where the +stones were so large & so thick that we scarcely touch'd the ground the +whole distance- At last the road seem'd to end in a hogs pen, but we +found it possible to get round it, & once more found ourselves right +again- We met very few people, yet the road seem'd to have been a great +deal travelled- One young man came along & caus'd us some diversion, for +he eyed us very closely & then enter'd into conversation with M^r W who +was walking a little forward-He told him he should himself set out next +week for Pittsburg- & we expect to see him again before we get there-- +Erastus enquir'd the road of him & he said we must go the same way he +did; so we follow'd on till we put up for the night; he walking his +horse all the way & looking back at the waggon-As soon as we came to the +inn he sat on his horse at the door till he saw us all quietly seated in +the house & then rode off- Which of us made a conquest I know not, but I +am sure one of us did----We have pass'd thro' but 2 towns in N J- but +several small villages- Dutch valley, between some high hills & the +Mountain- Batestown, where we stopt to _bait_-& some others- all too +small to deserve a name- At last we stopt at Mansfield at an Inn kept by +Philip fits (a little f). We found it kept by 2 young women, whom I +thought _amazoons_- for they swore & flew about "like _witches_" they +talk & laugh'd about their sparks &c &c till it made us laugh so as +almost to affront them- There was a young woman visiting them who +reminded me of Lady Di Spanker-for sprung from the ground to her horse +with as much agility as that Lady could have done-- They all took their +pipes before tea---- one of them appears to be very unhappy- I believe +she has a very cross husband if she is married- She has a baby & a +pretty one-- Their manners soften'd down after a while & they appear to +be obliging & good natur'd---- + + + + +Pennsylvania- Saturday eve- 2 miles from Bethlehem- Hanover- Oct 27^{th} + + +Before I write you anything I will tell you where & how we are- We are +at a dutch tavern almost crazy- In one corner of the room are a set of +dutchmen talking singin & laughing in dutch so loud, that my brain is +almost turn'd- they one moment catch up a fiddle & I expect soon to be +pulled up to dance- I am so afraid of them I dare hardly stay in the +house one night; much less over the sabbath- I cannot write so good +night-- + + + + +Sunday Morn- + + +I have hesitated a long time whether I ought to write or not, & have at +length concluded I may as well write as anything else, for I cannot read +or listen to Deacon W who is reading- for I am almost distracted. We +have determin'd (or rather M^r W has & we must do as he says) to spend +the Sabbath among these wicked wretches- It would not be against my +conscience to ride to day rather than stay here, for we can do no good & +get none- & how much harm they may do us I know not- but they look as if +they had sufficient inclination to do us evil-- + + + + +Sunday eve- Sundown- + + +I can wait no longer to write you, for I have a great deal to say- I +should not have thought it possible to pass a Sabbath in our country +among such a dissolute vicious set of wretches as we are now among--I +believe at least 50 dutchmen have been here to day to smoke, drink, +swear, pitch cents, almost dance, laugh & talk dutch & stare at us- They +come in, in droves young & old- black & white- women & children- It is +dreadful to see so many people that you cannot speak to or understand-- +They are all high dutch, but I hope not a true specimen of the +Pennsylvanians generally-- Just as we set down to tea, in came a dozen +or two of women, each with a child in her arms, & stood round the room- +I did not know but they had come in a body to claim me as one of their +kin, for they all resemble me- but as they said nothing to me, I +concluded they came to see us _Yankees_, as they would a learned pig-- +The women dress in striped linsey woolsey petticoats & short gowns not 6 +inches in length- they look very strangely- The men dress much better- +they put on their best cloaths on sunday, which I suppose is their only +holiday, & "keep it up" as they call it-- A stage came on from Bethlehem +& stopt here, with 2 girls & a well dress'd _fellow_ who sat between +them an arm round each-- They were probably going to the next town to a +dance or a frolic of some kind-for the driver, who was very familiar +with them, said he felt just right for a frolic-- I suspect more liquor +has been sold to day than all the week besides-- The children have been +calling us Yankees (which is the only english word they can speak) all +day long-Whether it was meant as a term of derision or not, I neither +know nor care- of this I am sure, they cannot feel more contempt for me +than I do for them;-tho' I most sincerely pity their ignorance & folly- +There seems to be no hope of their improvement as they will not attend +to any means- After saying so much about the people, I will describe our +yesterday's ride- but first I will describe our last nights lodging- +Susan & me ask'd to go to bed- & Mrs W spoke to M^r Riker the +landlord-(for no woman was visible)- So he took up a candle to light us +& we ask'd M^{rs} W to go up with us, for we did not dare go alone- when +we got into a room he went to the bed & open'd it for us, while we were +almost dying with laughter, & then stood waiting with the candle for us +to get into bed- but M^{rs} W- as soon as she could speak, told him she +would wait & bring down the candle & he then left us- I never laugh'd so +heartily in my life- Our bed to sleep on was straw, & then a feather bed +for covering- The pillows contain'd nearly a single handful of feathers, +& were cover'd with the most curious & dirty patchwork, I ever saw-We +had one bedquilt & one sheet- I did not undress at all, for I expected +dutchmen in every moment & you may suppose slept very comfortably in +that expectation----M^r & M^{rs} W, & another woman slept in the same +room- When the latter came to bed, the man came in & open'd her bed +also, after we were all in bed in the middle of the night, I was +awaken'd by the entrance of three dutchmen, who were in search of a bed- +I was almost frightened to death- but M^r W at length heard & stopt them +before they had quite reach'd our bed- Before we were dress'd the men +were at the door- which could not fasten, looking at us- I think _wild +Indians_ will be less terrible to me, than these creatures- Nothing +vexes me more than to see them set & look at us & talk in dutch and +laugh-- Now for our ride- After we left Mansfield, we cross'd the +longest hills, and the worst road, I ever saw- two or three times after +riding a little distance on turnpike, we found it fenced across & were +oblig'd to turn into a wood where it was almost impossible to proceed- +large trees were across, not the road for there was none, but the only +place we could possibly ride- It appear'd to me, we had come to an end +of the habitable part of the globe- but all these difficulties were at +last surmounted, & we reach'd the Delaware- The river where it is +cross'd, is much smaller than I suppos'd- The bridge over it is elegant +I think-- It is covered & has 16 windows each side-- As soon as we +pass'd the bridge, we enter'd Easton, the first town in Pennsylvania- It +is a small but pleasant town- the houses are chiefly small, & built of +stone- very near together- The meeting house, Bank, & I think, market, +are all of the same description- There are a few very handsome brick +houses, & some wooden buildings--From Easton, we came to Bethlehem, +which is 12 miles distant from it- M^r W. went a mile out of his way, +that we might see the town- It contains almost entirely dutch people-- +The houses there are nearly all stone- but like Easton it contains some +pretty brick houses- It has not half as many stores as Easton---- The +meeting house is a curious building-it looks like a castle- I suppose it +is stone,- the outside is plaister'd- We left our waggon to view the +town- we did not know whether the building was a church or the moravian +school, so we enquir'd of 2 or 3 men who only answer'd in dutch- M^r & +M^{rs} W were purchasing bread, & Susan & I walk'd on to enquire- we +next saw a little boy on horseback, & he could only say "me cannot +english" but he I believe, spoke to another, for a very pretty boy came +near us & bow'd & expecting us to speak, which we soon did; & he pointed +out the school & explained the different buildings to us as well as he +was able; but we found it difficult to understand him, for he could but +just "english"- We felt very much oblig'd to him, though we neglected to +tell him so- He is the only polite dutchman small or great, we have yet +seen; & I am unwilling to suppose him a _dutchman_. The school buildings +are low, long stone houses- the stone houses are not at all handsome- +but rather ugly--Where we stopt to bait yesterday, we found another +waggon containing a widow Jackson, her 2 sons & a daughter in law- They +enquir'd where we were going & told us they were going to the same place +& immediately join'd our party- We were sorry as we did not wish an +addition to our party, & thought by not travvelling on sunday we should +lose their company, but rather than lose ours, they wait till +monday-They are very clever people apparently, & we may possibly be +benefited by them before we end our journey--We now find the benefit of +having our own provision- for I would not eat anything we could get +here. + + + + +Monday morn-October 29- + + +It rains & we shall have a dismal day I am afraid-M^r W's harness last +night was very much injur'd by being chew'd to pieces by a cow- I have +broken my parasol handle a little, but it will not much injure it-I have +a bad cold to day- which I know not how I have taken- I more than ever +wish to reach Warren-- + + + + +Pennsylvania- Monday-eve- A Dutchman's inn- I dont know where. Palks +County-or some thing like it-- + + +We have only pass'd thro' 2 small towns to day, Allenstown & Kluztown- +The former is about 3 miles from Hannover, where we spent the sabbath, & +6 from Bethlehem- Before we enter'd the town, we cross'd the Lehi in 2 +places- It was not deep, & we forded it to save time & _expence_- It +runs I believe through Bethlehem or at the side of it & is a very small +river- Allentown is not a pleasant place-The houses are almost all +stone- It contains 2 small stone churches- We went into a store, where I +bought me a coarse tooth comb for 15 cents- I should never get +accustom'd to the Pensylvania currency- It diverts me to hear them talk +of their fippenny bits (as they pronounce it) & their eleven penny +bits-- Kluztown is but a few miles from Allentown-It has but one short +street which is very thickly built with Stone & log houses-- It is +rather a dirty street & not more pleasant than the others Stone is used +for everything in this state- The barns & houses are almost entirely +built of it- I imagine the dutch pride themselves on building good +barns, for a great many of than are very elegant- they are 3 & 4 stories +high, have windows & one or 2. I saw with blinds- They are larger & +handsomer than most of the houses- The dutch women are all out as we +pass, dressing flax, picking up apples &c &c-The dress of the women +grows worse & worse-We find them now with very short petticoats, no +short gown & barefoot-- The country is not pleasant, at least does not +appear so as we ride thro' it at all- I should think the land must be +good as we see large fields of grain very frequently- There does not +appear to be as much fruit as in N Y & N J--We saw immense quantities of +apples in each of those states, particularly N J- there would be +thousands of bushels at the cider presses, & still the trees would be +borne down with them-- The roads in this state are pretty good, where, +dame Nature has not undertaken to pave them- but she has so much other +business on hand that she has never learn'd to pave, & makes a wretched +hand at it- I wish she could be persuaded to leave it to Art for the +future; for we are very great sufferers for her work- It is quite +amusing to see the variety of paintings on the innkeeper's signs- I saw +one in N J with Tho^s Jeff'^{ns} head & shoulders & his name above it- +to day I saw Gen G Washington- his name underneath- Gen Putnam riding +down the steps at Horseneck- one sign was merely 3 little kegs hanging +down one after the other- They have the sun rising, setting, & at +Meridian, here a full moon, a new moon, the moon & 7 stars around her, +the Lion & Unicorn "fighting &c", & every thing else that a dutchman has +ever seen or heard of- I do not believe one of them has wit enough to +invent any thing, even for a sign----Several of these creatures sit by +Jabbering dutch so fast, that my brain is turn'd & my thoughts +distracted, & I wonder I have been able to write a word- If you find it +unintelligible you must not wonder or blame me- A dozen will talk at +once & it is really intolerable- I wish Uncle Porter was here-How can I +live among them 3 weeks? We have come about 24 miles to day- it rain'd a +very little this morning & the rest of the day has been quite pleasant +tho' somewhat cold- Tomorrow we pass thro' Reading-- + + + + +Wednesday Oct^ber 31^st Highdleburg-Penn- + + +We pass'd through Reading yesterday which is one of the largest & +prettiest towns I have seen-We stopt about 2 hours in the town, & I +improved my time in walking about to see it- I went into the stores +enquiring for a scissor case- Almost every one could talk english- but I +believe the greatest part of them were dutch people- As soon as we left +Reading, we cross'd the Schuylkill- It was not deeper than the Lehi, & +we rode thro' it in our waggon. A bridge was begun over it, but the man +broke & was unable to finish it- It would have been an excellent one had +it been completed- It is now grown over with grass & serves as a walk +for the ladies---- We put up for the night at Leonard Shaver's tavern-He +is a dutchman, but has one of the most agreeable women for his wife I +have seen in this State-I was extremely tir'd when we stopt, & went +immediately to bed after tea- & for the first time for a long while, +undress'd me & had a comfortable nights rest- We are oblig'd to sleep +every & any way- at most of the inns now---- My companions were all +disturb'd by the waggoners who put up here & were all night in the room +below us, eating, drinking, talking, laughing & swearing- Poor M^r W- +was so disturb'd that he is not well this morning, & what is more +unpleasant to us, is not good natur'd, & M^rs W has been urging him this +half hour, to eat some breakfast- he would only answer "I shan't eat +any"-but at length swallow'd some in sullen silence- but is in a +different way preparing to ride-- If I were going to be married I would +give my _intended_, a gentle emetic, or some such thing to see how he +would bear being sick a little- for I could not coax a husband as I +would a child, only because he was a little sick & a great deal cross- I +trust I shall never have the trial- I am sure I should never bear it +with temper & patience. M^r W is I believe a very pious good man, but +not naturally pleasant temper'd- religion however, has corrected it in a +great degree, but not wholly overcome it- M^{rs} W- is an amiable sweet +temper'd woman, as I ever saw; the more I know her, the better I love +her- Susan is a charming girl-but Erastus is rather an obstinate boy- he +feels superiour to his father & every one else, in wisdom--M^{rs} +Jackson is a clever woman I believe, but I have a prejudice against her +which I cannot overcome- She is very inquisitive and very communicative- +She resembles Moll Lyman or rather crazy Moll of Northampton in her +looks- She has considerable property & feels it very sensibly- Her +youngest son is almost eighteen & has his wife with him, who is not +quite as old- They have been married 2 months, & are a most loving +couple- I cannot help thinking whenever I see them together, of "love I +Sophia?" &c-- Her name is Eliza & his, John-- The other son is a very +obliging but not a very polish'd young man- I like them all better than +at first---- + + + + +Wednesday Eve- Miller's town- Penn- Oct-31^{st} + + +We have come 24 miles to day, & just begin to shorten the distance +between Pittsburgh & us, & to increase it between Phildelphy (as the +dutchmen call it,) & us- It has for a long time been 250 miles to +Pitts^g & 60 to Phil^{hia}- but is now 218 to one & more than 80 to the +other-- It began snowing this morning which rendered our ride more +unpleasant than before- M^r W has continued just as he was in the +morning- scarcely a word has been spoken by any of us- I never felt +more low spirited & discouraged in my life- We have pass'd through 2 +little towns to day- Moyerstown & the other I don't know the name of- We +also pass'd thro Lebanon which appear'd to be a town of considerable +size & pleasant- we did not stop at all in it- The other towns were +merely one short dirty street- this town is one street only, but a +tolerably pretty one- There are a number of good houses in it- We have +once more got among people of our own nation & language- & they appear +very clever-- + + + + +Harrisburg- P- Thursday- Eve-November-1^{st} 1810- + + +It has been snowing fast all the afternoon & we found it very difficult +travelling & were oblig'd to put up just in the edge of the town- It was +M^r W's intention to cross the Susquehannah which is the other side the +town- we shall not pass thro' it- We cross'd the Sweet Arrow, a little +river about 8 miles from the Susquehannah-- we cross'd it in our +waggon-M^r Jeremiah Rees is our landlord- his wife is sick with a fever +arising from the Hives at first- He has a sister who seems to take the +direction of the female part of the business- She is a strange creature- + +Friday morn- I have been very much diverted at hearing some part of her +history which she told last night, after drinking a little too much I +suppose-She says she has property if she is not married- she had her +fortune told a short time since- & was told to think of a certain +gentleman living about 300 miles off- which she did, & thought so hard +that a drop of blood fell from her nose- She was telling M^{rs} Jackson +of this & ask'd how far she was going- being told about 300 miles- well +she said she really believ'd her oldest son was the young man she was to +have, for he looks just like the one she thought of- The young man will +be quite flatter'd no doubt---- We are all in tolerably good spirits +notwithstanding we are unable to proceed on our journey- It still +continues snowing, & we shall stay here till tomorrow morning & how much +longer I do not know---- There was a cockfighting in the house last +night & a great many of the "finest young men in the town" got so +intoxicated as to be unable to get home without assistance---- M. V. D. + + + + +Sunday eve- East pensboro' township- P- + + +We left M^r Rees' yesterday ten oclock- & after waiting some time at the +ferry house, cross'd the Susquehanna with considerable difficulty- The +river is a mile wide & so shallow that the boat would scrape across the +large stones so as almost to prevent it from proceeding- We only came 8 +miles- the riding was awful- & the weather so cold that I thought I +should perish riding 4 miles- This will do well for us, 8 miles in 3 +days- We were to have seen the mountains yesterday, but are 50 miles +from it-- I should like to have staid at M^r Rees' till we reach home if +it was possible, notwithstanding we had like to have all lost our +characters there- While we were at breakfast, the black wench miss'd +nearly 4 dollars of money, & very impudently accused us with taking it, +in rather an indirect manner-- I felt at first very angry, but anger +soon gave place to pity for the poor girls loss- It was money she had +been saving for a long time that she might get enough to buy her a +dress- but she left it about very carelessly in the closet where any one +might have taken it who was so disposed-- But had I been inclined to +steal, I could not have stolen from a poor black girl- I would rather +have given her as much- I never felt so queerly in my life- To be +suspected of theft was so new & unexpected to me, that I was wholly +unprepar'd for it-- We went to M^r Rees & begg'd him to take some method +to satisfy the girl we were innocent but we could not prevail on him to, +tho' we really wish'd it-He gave the girl a severe scolding & desir'd us +not to remember it against them, or to suffer ourselves to be made a +moment uneasy by it, & both himself and M^rs Rees were extremely sorry +any thing of the kind had happen'd- The girl continued crying & assuring +us her money had been safe all summer till then & nobody had been near +it but us- I, nor any of us had any doubt that the landlord's sister, +whom I before mention'd, had taken it- She had the day before 2 or 3 +ninepences in her shoes, & when M^r W ventur'd to ask her if she had not +taken it to tease the wench, she swore by every thing she had not +touch'd it- She said it was fashionable for ladies to carry money in +their shoes- I suppose she had long been eyeing it, & thought then would +be a good opper^ty to take it but did not intend it should be +discover'd till we were gone & unable to defend ourselves from the +charge which she then meant to make against us-- She is so worthless a +character in every respect, that I am certain she could be guilty of +stealing upon occasion-- She was very fond of telling what ladies, like +_her_ & _me_, did & wore-- She is between 30 & 40 y^{rs} of age- It was +an honour I was not very tenacious of, to be rank'd with her +ladyship-The money was not found before we left there & I suppose the +poor girl feels as certain some one of us have it, as that she has lost +it- Should I ever return this way I would call & enquire about it- I +hope it will be found with Babby (for that is the creatures name)-- + +We put up for the Sabbath at a tavern where none but the servants deign +to look at us- When I am with such people, my proud spirit rises & I +feel superior to them all-- I believe no regard is paid to the sabbath +any where in this State- It is only made a holiday of-- So much swearing +as I have heard amongst the Pensylvanians both men & women I have never +heard before during my whole life- I feel afraid I shall become so +accustom'd to hearing it, as to feel no uneasiness at it. Harrisburgh is +a most dissipated place I am sure- & the small towns seem to partake of +the vice & dissipation of the great ones-- I believe M^{rs} Jackson has +cast her eyes on Susan or me for a daughter in law- for my part, though +I feel very well disposed toward the young man, I had not thought of +_making a bargain_ with him, but I have jolted off most of my high +notions, & perhaps I may be willing to descend from a judge to a +blacksmith- I shall not absolutely determine with respect to him till I +get to Warren & have time to look about me & compare him with the judges +Dobson & Stephenson- It is clever to have two or three strings to ones +bow-- But in spite of my prejudices, they are _very clever_-- Among my +list of _cast offs_, I would rank Dutchmen, a Pensylvania waggoner, +ditto gentlemen- for their prophanity- & a Slut- The words, Landlord & +lady, terrible,- get married,- get a husband-&c &c-- I do not find it as +easy to write a journal as I had hoped- for we are seldom favour'd with +any more than the barroom, & there is always as many men as the room +will hold besides our party, & there is nine of us- so you may judge +whether I find it difficult or not- I frequently begin a sentence & +forget how to finish it,- for the conversation grows so loud, that I am +oblig'd to listen to it & write between whiles- I sometimes get quite +discouraged & think I will not try again, but I take too much pleasure +in writing, to give it up willingly-- + + + + +10 miles West of Carlisle- Penn-Monday Nov-5^{th}- + + +We came but a little peice as the Dutchmen say, to day, & are in a most +curious place to night- If possible I will describe it- It is a log hut +built across the road from the tavern, for _movers-_ that the landlord +need not be _bother'd_ with them-- Had it been possible for our horses +to have reached another inn we should not have staid with the cross old +dutch fellow-we have a good fire, a long dirty table, a few boards +nailed up for a closet, a dozen long boards in one side & as many +barrels in the other- 2 benches to sit on, two bottomless chairs, & a +floor containing dirt enough to plant potatoes-- The man says he has +been so bother'd with movers, that he has taken down his sign, for he +does not need his tavern to live-- If we had a mind to stay we might but +if we chose to go on he had no objection-- Cross old witch- I had rather +have walk'd 10 miles than stay, but the poor horses could not-- We are +going to sleep on the floor all in a room together in the old stile +without bothering the old Scamp, for any thing-Mrs Jackson has beds-- If +I did not feel provok'd with the wretch I should rest comfortably- + +Tues- morn- The old man I believe feels a little asham'd of his +treatment of us & was going to make some apology, but concluded by +saying with a forced laugh, that if we ever came there again, he would +treat us just so- He may if has oppor^{ty}-- + + + + +Tuesday night- Nov-6^{th}- + + +We have only counted 17 miles to day although the riding has been much +better than for several days past- We stopt in Shippenburgh at noon- The +town contains only one street a mile & a half in length & very thickly +built- The street is some part of it pleasant, & some part dirty-- I saw +in it a handsome young gentleman who was both a dutchman & +Pennsylvanian, yet in an hour & half I did not hear him make use of a +single oath or prophane word- It was a remarkable instance, the only one +I have known, & I could not but remark it- Prophanity is the +characteristic of a Pennsylvanian---- We are 4 miles from Strasburgh & +the mountains, & one of our horses is ill, owing to Erastus giving him +too many oats- Erastus is master rather than his father, & will do as he +pleases for all any one- He is a stubborn fellow, & so impudent to his +mother & sister, that I have no patience with him-- We are not as +bless'd as the Israelites were, for our shoes wax old & our cloaths wear +out-- I don't know that mine will last till I get there---- ---- ---- +---- ---- ---- + +Wed- morn- Last night Susan & I went to bed early, as we slept ill the +night before- we expected to get good beds & were never so disappointed- +We were put in an old garret that had holes in the roof big enough to +crawl through- Our bed was on the floor, harder it appear'd to me, than +boards could be- & dirty as possible- a dirty feather bed our only +covering- After lying an hour or two, we complain'd to M^{rs} Wolcott +who applied to the landlady for a bedstead, but could only obtain leave +for us to sleep on one bed with another over us- I slept wretchedly & +feel very little like climbing a mountain--M^r & M^{rs} W could not +sleep at all & got up at about eleven oclock-- She had good beds in the +house or I would not have complained so much-- + + + + +Jennyauter-P--Wednesday 2 oclock P M-between 2 brothers---- + + +This morning we cross'd the first mountain call'd first brother, & are +in an inn between the first & second brother; the latter we are soon to +ascend-The first m-n is 3-1/2 miles over,- better road than we expected- +but bad enough to tire the horses almost to death- We met & were +overtaken by a number of people-- We all walk'd the whole distance over- +I did not stop at all to rest till I reach'd the top- I was then oblig'd +to wait for some of them to overtake me, as I had outwalk'd them all. It +is not a little fatiguing to walk up a long mountain I find--When we had +nearly reach'd the foot of it, we heard some music in the valey below, & +not one of us could imagine from what it proceeded; but soon found it +was from the bells of a waggoner- He had twelve bells on the collars of +his horses, (not sleigh bells) & they made a great variety of sounds +which were really musical at a distance-- We found at the tavern where +we are now, or rather they came after us, a M^r Beach, & his wife who +was confin'd nine days after she set out on her journey, with a little +son-It is just a fortnight since she was confin'd, & this morning she +ventur'd to set out on her journey again- They came from Morristown- N +J- & are going to some part of the Ohio, much farther than we are going. +M^{rs} B- appears to be a very pretty woman & quite a lady- Her father & +mother, a sister & 3 little children, set out with them, but were +oblig'd to leave them & go on, as soon as M^{rs} B was confin'd- I feel +afraid she will catch her death, tho' every care is taken to render her +journey safe & comfortable-- She & babe are both very well now-- + + + + +Fannitsburg- Penn- M^cAllen's Inn-Wednesday night- Nov- 6^{th}- + + +We have over come 2 mountains to day- & are between the 2^d & 3^d +brothers- We walked over it-I have walked about 8 miles to day & feel as +much fatigued as I have almost ever been in my life- It was 4 _long_ +miles over- We met a number of waggons on it- but no other travellers- +This is a very small but pretty place- The 3 first m-ns are very near +each other- the 4^{th} is 40 or 50 miles distant--They are higher than I +expected, & make a formidable appearance- It has been very smoky all +day- I am so tir'd I can neither think or write, so good night---- + +Thursday morn- We had a good nights rest, but I am so lame I can +scarcely walk this morning- I have a mountain to walk over, +notwithstanding-- M^r W's horses grow so dull that he expects to be +oblig'd to put up for a few days, & we are all almost discouraged--The +weather looks stormy & where we shall get to or what we shall do, I +cannot imagine--The Jacksons enquire about the road & the mountains &c +&c, of every one they see, & get such different & contradictory answers +from each one, that it perplexes & discourages us all- I wish they +would be contented to wait patiently till time & experience inform them +what they cannot find out any other way- M^r W says I have now an +oppor^{ty} to experience the truth of a text of scripture which says +"all men are liars"- I found that out long ago- & this journey confirms +the truth of it. + + + + +Peach Orchard, P- Thursday night-Phelps' Tavern-- + + +I do not feel to night, my dear Elizabeth, as if I should ever see you +again- 3 mountains & more hundreds of miles part us; & tho' I cannot +give up the idea of returning, I cannot think of traversing this road +again- If I live to return I will wait till the new turnpike is +finished-- We cross'd the last brother this morning, & found the greater +part of it, better than the other two- but about 60 rods near the top it +was excessively steep-- We found a house at the foot of the steepest +part- A woman & her 2 sons live there & keep cakes & beer-- The woman +told us she had no husband at _present_--I suppose, she has one in +expectation--On the first mountain, I found some sweet Williams-- We +stopt at noon, at a dismal looking log hut tavern- The landlady (I hate +the word but I must use it,) talk'd about bigotry, bigotted notions, +liberty of conscience &c- She did not look as if she knew the meaning of +conscience, much less of bigotry-- All this afternoon we have been +walking over young mountains, distant relations of the 3 brothers, but +not half as clever- I was so lame & so tir'd that for an hour I did not +know but I must set down & die- I could not ride- the road was so bad, +it was worse than walking- I would not tell you all this, if you were to +receive this before it is all over---- It rain'd a very little all day, +but just at night it began to rain very fast, & I expected we should all +catch our death, walking thro' mud & mire, with no umbrella, or but one +that would not cover us all- We were wet thro before we reach'd this +dreadful place where we now are-- The Woman is cross & the Man sick---- + +Friday night- It rain'd all day yesterday, & such a shocking place as +this is, I never saw- A dozen Waggoners are here, some half drunk & no +place for us to stay in but our waggons or a little chamber with 3 +squares of glass in it- with scarcely room to sit or stand-- + +Saturday morn---- I am now in despair, it continues raining faster than +ever- The house full of drunken prophane wretches, the old woman cross +as a witch- We have nothing to eat & can get nothing but some slapjacks +at a baker's some distance off, & so stormy we cannot get there---- +M^{rs} Jackson frets all the time, I wish they would go on & leave us, +we should do as well again---- M^r Beach & his wife & child & the woman +who is with them, are here, & the house is full- M^{rs} Beach rode in +all the rain Thursday, but took no cold & bears it well as any one- It +rains most dreadfully & they say it is the clearing off shower- Oh, if +it only proves so---- "Oh had I the wings of a dove, how soon would I +meet you again"- We have never found the wretches indelicate till last +evening, but while we were at tea, they began talking & singing in a +most dreadful manner---- We are 4 miles from Sidling hill, the next +mountain, & a mile & a half from this, there is a creek which we must +cross, that is so rais'd by the rain, as to render it impossible to pass +it---- + +Saturday night- Our "clearing up shower" has lasted all day with +unabated violence,-- Just at sunset we had a pretty hard thunder shower, +& at dusk there was clear sky visible & the evening star shone bright as +possible, but now it is raining fast again--After giving an emetic I +would take a long journey with my _intended_, to try his patience---- +mine is try'd sorely now- I wish you could just take a peep at me-my +frock is wet & dirty a quarter of a yard high, only walking about the +house- I have been in my chamber almost the whole day, but was oblig'd +to go down just at night to eat, & look at the sky- I was very much +frighten'd by a drunken waggoner, who came up to me as I stood by the +door waiting for a candle, he put his arm round my neck, & said +something which I was too frighten'd to hear- It is the first time the +least insult has been offer'd to any of us- One waggoner very civilly +offer'd to take Susan or me, on to Pitts^g in his waggon if we were not +like to get there till spring- It is not yet determin'd which shall go +with him-- One waggon in crossing the creek this afternoon, got turn'd +over & very much injur'd-- We have concluded the reason so few are +willing to return from the Western country, is not that the country is +so good, but because the journey is so bad-- M^r W. has gone to & from +there, 5 times, but thinks this will be the last time- Poor Susan groans +& sighs & now then sheds a few tears-I think I exceed her in patience & +fortitude----M^{rs} Wolcott is a woman of the most perfect equanimity I +ever saw- She is a woman of great feeling & tenderness, but has the most +perfect command over her feelings- She is not _own_ mother to these +children, but she is a very good one---- I have learn'd Elizabeth, to +eat raw _pork_ & drink whisky-dont you think I shall do for a new +country? I shall not know how to do either when I end my journey, +however- We have almost got out of the land of dutchmen, but the +waggoners are worse---- The people here talk curiously, they all reckon +instead of expect-- Youns is a word I have heard used several times, but +what it means I don't know, they use it so strangely-- M^r Rees used to +exclaim at any thing wonderful, "Only look at that now"-- "I reckon you +are going into the back countries" is now our usual salutation from +every one---- Susan is in bed for want of some employment & I will join +her, after telling you, it has really clear'd off now, & the moon is +shining in full splendor.- I hope to-morrows sun will deign to smile +upon us- It is long since we have seen it---- I expect to be oblig'd to +go thro' a process of fire & brimstone at my journeys end & shall feel +thankful, if that will remedy all the evils arising from dirty beds &c-- +I find no necessity for even that yet, but I fear I shall soon----good +night---- + +Sunday 2 oclock P M- We left the Inn this morning in the hope of getting +a _little piece_ on our way, but have only reach'd the baker's, half a +mile from where we set out- The creek is so high we cannot cross it yet- +An old man & his wife live here, & appear to be very kind clever people, +& what is more than we have found before, they appear to regard the +Sabbath- They are Methodists- This is a small log hut, but clean & +comfortable- There are no waggoners here-- I shall be oblig'd to colour +my frock I believe, for it attracts the attention of those creatures so +much, that I dare not go in sight of them scarcely- I often think of the +2 lines your Mama repeated to us "In Silk, &c" + + + + +Sunday night. + + +About sunset, we left the baker's & came down to the Creek, but found it +was impossible to get over the waggon, & the road was so intolerable +between the place we had left & the creek, that we could not go back, & +what to do, it took a long time to determine; but at length M^r W +concluded we had better come over to a dirty tavern this side, & let +Erastus sleep in the wagon-- The stream runs so fast, that we did not +dare cross it alone, as there was nothing but a log to cross on; so the +waggoners & our own party, were oblig'd to lead & pilot us, over the +stream & thro' a most shocking place as I ever saw- The men were all +very civil- they are waiting + + this line is the shape of a Pensylvania waggon-- + + with of us---- We fare + their the rest + waggons, like + +worse & worse, & still M^r W- & his wife, tell us this is nothing to +what will come- I do not fully believe them, for we cannot endure much +more & live--Susan & young M^{rs} Jackson have been quite unwell all +day-- I never felt in better health, & my spirits are pretty good, +considering all things-- We are not able to get beds here, & are to +sleep on the floor to night- There is another family here, with several +little children-- They say there has been a _heap_ of people moving this +fall;- I don't know exactly how many a heap is, or a _sight_ either, +which is another way of measuring people-- I would be _apt_ to think it +was a _terrible_ parcel, to use the language of the people round me---- +I have such an enormous appetite the whole time, that I have been in +some fear of starving- for food of every kind, is very scarce with us- +Money will not procure it, & nothing else I am sure, will- for they love +money better than life, if possible-- 4 Sabbaths we have pass'd on the +road, & I suppose 2 or 3 more will pass before we get among people who +"remember the sabbath day to keep it holy"-- We find no books to read, +only at the bakers to day I found part of a bible, a methodist hymn book +& a small book containing an account of the progress of Methodism +throughout the country; in letters from Ministers & others----We left +M^r Beach & family, at the tavern we left to day-- I hope tomorrow to +write you from a comfortable place 6 or 8 miles at least from the next +mountain-- + +Monday morn- We have now I think met with as bad as can befal us-- +Never, never did I pass such a night---- We could get no bed & for a +long time expected to be oblig'd to set up all night- but we could get +no room nor fire to stay by, & the landlady was so kind as to give up +her bed to us; so M^rs W & Susan went to bed there, while I went to bed +with M^rs Jackson in another room- I took off my frock & boots, & had +scarcely lain down, when one of the wretches came into the room & lay +down by me on the outside of the bed- I was frighten'd almost to death & +clung to M^{rs} Jackson who did not appear to mind it- & I lay for a +quarter of an hour crying, & scolding & trembling, begging of him to +leave me-At last, when persuaded I was in earnest, he begg'd of me not +to take it amiss, as he intended no harm & only wish'd to become +acquainted with me-- A good for nothing brute, I wonder what he suppos'd +I was- I don't know of any thought word or action of mine that could +give him reason to suppose I would authorise such abominable +insolence---- The man & his wife, who are here, & their family, John +Jackson & his wife, & M^{rs} Jackson, were all in the room-The moment he +left the room, I put on my frock & was going in to M^{rs} W & Susan, but +I could not get to them without going thro' the room where all the +waggoners were, & M^{rs} Jackson did not think it safe, so I got on +another part of the bed where none of them could come near me, & had +been there about 10 minutes when M^{rs} W & Susan came into the room +both crying, & as much frighten'd as I had been, for one of the +creatures had been into their room, & they could scarcely get him out- +M^r W- was in the waggon, & the landlord was so afraid of these wag^gs +that he did not dare stay in his own house, for they threaten'd to put +him into the creek, if he did not continue giving them liquor- I wish +they had put him in- a mean sneaking fellow!-- His poor wife was then +oblig'd to bear it all, & she was very much distress'd on our account- +She was not to blame for any thing that happen'd, for as long as her +husband suffer'd it, she could not prevent it-At last M^{rs} W- went to +bed with M^{rs} Jackson & me, & Susan lay down with John & his wife- We +lay but a few minutes, when one of them came into our room again +crawling on his hands & knees- M^{rs} W & I sprung & run out into the +mud in our stocking feet & were going to call M^r W.- but the creatures +came out to us & begg'd us not to, & pledg'd their honor (of which you +may suppose they possess'd a great share) that we should not be +disturb'd more- & tenderness for M^r W- who we knew would be sick to day +if depriv'd of rest, at length determin'd us to go back; but we did not +go to bed again till just morning, when some of us slept nearly or quite +an hour- which was every wink of sleep we could obtain during the whole +night- The fellows were all but one, very still afterwards- Indeed there +was but 2 who made any disturbance, & only one of those was very bad- +but one, was a complete child of the evil one- the vilest, worst, most +blasphemous wretch, that ever liv'd-- M^r W- came back to the house +before 2 oclock, & this morning, threaten'd them with a prosecution- +They are quite angry- they are in the employ of this man who is moving; +he is a merchant & they carry his goods to Pitts^g-- + + + + +Nov^{br}-12^{th} Monday night- Nail Shop-on the 4^{th} Mountain + + +We have got 8-1/2 miles on our journey to day, & now it rains again-- If +I could describe to you our troubles from roads, waggoners & creeks, I +would,- but it is impossible-- The waggoners set out just before we did +& the bad one being foremost has taken all the pains in his power to +hinder our progress, by driving as slow as possible & stopping every +other moment- The road was too narrow to pass them, unless they would +turn out for us- all but one did, but he swore he would not- We came by +them as they stopp'd at noon, & put up to night at an inn on the +mountain, out of the direct road, where we should peaceably pass the +night- but the waggoners have follow'd us, & the house is full- They are +not in our room-- Our party now consists of M^{rs} Jackson's, M^r +Beach's & M^r W's familys-- The woman who is with M^r Beach, is such a +foolish old creature, that we are all out of patience with her----She is +aunt to them, I believe---- If I were to choose, I would never have +company on a long journey- such company at least- Our chairs here are +taken from us for the Waggoners---- Our road over the mountains, has not +even a good prospect to render it pleasant-- I have been repeating to +Susan all day, "Comfort damsel &c"- M^{rs} Jackson is scolding because +she has no chair to set on.- M^r W- tells her, "Fret not thyself because +of evil doers"---- There is another impassable creek a head, & a hundred +waggons waiting to cross it- Our prospect brightens fast-dont you think +so? good night-- + + + + +Tuesday eve- Nov- 13^{th}- 4 miles east of Bedford- Penn- + + +We have at length escap'd the waggoners & Mr Beach- The former did not +trouble us last night at all in the night- When we went to bed they +watch'd us narrowly, & after we were in bed we heard them talking about +us, enquiring of each other where we slept &c- We were in the room with +M^r & M^{rs} Wolcott, directly over the room they were in, but still I +felt afraid of them- The worst one is quite mad, & says he intends if +possible, to give us more trouble than he has done already- The other is +quite asham'd of his conduct & I suspect would be willing to make any +amends in his power- He told this to M^{rs} Jackson who is much too +familiar with them, & I believe it was owing entirely to that, that they +conducted so- for the rest of us always avoid even the sight of them, as +much as possible; & much more any conversation with them-- We got up +very early indeed & set out before breakfast, because the horses could +have no hay, & we have got quite out of their reach--We cross'd a little +stream call'd the Juniaatta- I spell the names as they are pronounced, +but I do not spell them right, I am sure, nor can I find out how they +are spelt many of them- The river is long & narrow- It takes a winding +course thro' the mountains, & is a very pretty stream-- We rode some +distance on its banks, & the road been tolerable, it would have been +pleasant- I have said so much about the badness of the roads that you +will hardly believe me when I tell you we seen some of the worst to day +we have ever found- & some, as good as any in this state---- I should +not have suppos'd it possible for any thing to pass it- M^{rs} W said it +seem'd like going into the lower regions, but I had always an idea, that +road was smooth & easy- I am sure if it was as bad as that, it would +have fewer travellers-We went down however till we came to a lower +region-It was really awful-- We saw some men to day, mending the roads- +I did not think a Pennsylvanian ever touch'd a road or made a bridge, +for we are oblig'd to ride thro' every stream we come to-We have been +nearly 20 miles to day; & have been oblig'd to walk up hill, till we are +all very tir'd- I felt too much so to write, but I am unwilling to omit +it- We are now, comfortably & quietly seated, in a private house- I only +wish now, we could get rid of what company we have left- but that we +cannot do---- + + + + +Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford + + +We cross'd the Juniaatta again to day, with a great deal of trouble, +after waiting on its banks about 3 hours- It is astonishing how the last +week's rain, rais'd every stream & overflow'd every place-The like here, +has not been known for 30 years it is said-- A waggoner last week, with +4 horses, was drown'd crossing a creek- He was advis'd by those who were +by, not to venture- & answer'd "he would be damn'd to hell if he did not +cross it"- he made the attempt & in a few minutes was sent into +eternity, & probably to that awful place---- It has been raining very +fast this afternoon, & we put up at a little log hut, a few miles west +of Bedford- we came about 10 miles to day- The house is very small & +there is scarcely room to move- + + + + +Thursday night-- Allegany M^{tn} Nov- 16- + + +We have had a warm & pleasant day till towards night, when it began to +rain, as it has done every day for a fortnight- We are now at a tavern +half a mile from the top of the Allegany Mt-this Mountain is 14 miles +over- At the highest part of it is a most beautiful prospect of +mountains- 5 or 6 ridges one after the other-- We clamber'd up a high +rock near to the highest part, but found the prospect little better than +the one from the road- I wish I could describe it to you- We have had no +prospect of any consequence from any of the mountains before- I have +been quite disappointed at not seeing any--We found winter green berrys +in abundance on it-I pick'd a sprig of ivy from the top, which I will +send you- call it laurel & preserve it, as it came from the very +_backbone of America_, as they all tell us--We have walk'd a great deal +to day, & indeed we are oblig'd to every day, for the whole country +seems one continued m^{tn}- I thought we had reach'd the top of this, +for we began to descend a little; but we have half a mile more to ascend +yet---- This house is full of travvellers & wag'^{nrs} but all are very +peacable-There is a curiosity in the house- a young lady who has come +from N Connecticut _unmarried_-- after staying in Warren a year--a thing +I never before heard of, & had begun to think impossible. I feel quite +encouraged by it- & do not believe the place as dangerous as is +generally reported---- I find in every family a _Paggy_- every body is +dutch-- the children & girls, are all very much attracted by my little +black buttons, & the manner in which my frock is made-& the Wag'^{rs} by +the colour of it- There will be little of it left by the time I get to +Warren, for it is almost gone-- + + + + +Friday night- Allegany M^{tn}-- + + +After a comfortable nights rest, we set out on foot to reach the height +of the m^{tn}- It rain'd fast for a long time, & at length began +snowing- We found the roads bad past description,- worse than you can +possibly imagine- Large stones & deep mud holes every step of the way- +We were oblig'd to walk as much as we possibly could, as the horses +could scarcely stir the waggon the mud was so deep & the stones so +large---- It has grown so cold that I fear we shall all perish tomorrow- +We suffer'd with cold excessively, to day- From what I have seen and +heard, I think the State of Ohio will be well fill'd before +winter,-Waggons without number, every day go on- One went on containing +_forty_ people- We almost every day, see them with 18 or 20- one stopt +here to night with 21-- We are at a baker's, near a tavern which is +fill'd with movers & waggoners- It is a comfortable place, but rather +small- One old man has been in examining my writing, & giving his +opinion of it in dutch, to a young fellow who was with him- He said he +could not read a word of any thing-- He found fault with the ink, but +commended the straitness & facility with which I wrote- in english- I +was glad he had not on his specs---- We came but 10 miles to day, & are +yet on the Allegany- It is up hill almost all the way down the +mountains-- I do not know when we are down them for my part--_I'm +thinking_ as they say here, we shall be oblig'd to winter on it, for I +_reckon_ we shall be unable to proceed on our journey, on account of +roads, weather, &c-- We are on the old Pennsylvania road- the Glade road +is said to be ten times worse than this-That is utterly impossible- We +thought we should escape the waggoners this way; but find as many of +them as ever- they are a very great annoyance---- What would the old +man say hereto?-- I am very tir'd, so good night-- + + + + +Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn- + + +We came but 9 or 10 miles to day, & are now near the 6^{th} Mountain- in +a tavern fill'd with half drunken noisy waggoners-- One of them lies +singing directly before the fire; proposing just now to call for a song +from the young ladies---- I can neither think nor write he makes so much +noise with his _love songs_; I am every moment expecting something +dreadful & dare not lay down my pen lest they should think me listening +to them- They are the very worst wretches that ever liv'd, I do +believe,--I am out of all patience with them- The whole world nor any +thing in it, would tempt me to stay in this State three months- I +dislike everything belonging to it--I am not so foolish as to suppose +there are no better people in it than those we have seen; but let them +be ever so good, I never desire to see any of them----We overtook an old +waggoner whose waggon had got set in the mud, & I never heard a creature +swear so- & whipt his horses till I thought they would die--I could not +but wonder at the patience and forbearance of the Almighty, whose awful +name was so blasphem'd-- We also overtook a young _Doctor_-who is going +with his father to Mad river in the state of Ohio---- He has been +studying physic in New Jersey,- but appears to be an uneducated man from +the language he makes use of----I believe both himself & his father are +very clever- I heard them reproving a swearer-- He dresses smart, & was +so polite as to assist us in getting over the mud-- Susan & I walk'd on +before the waggon as usual, & he overtook us and invited us into the +house & call'd for some brandy sling- we did not drink, which he +appear'd not to like very well, & has scarcely spoken to us since---- He +thinks himself a gentleman of the _first chop_, & takes the liberty of +coining words for himself- Speaking of the people in this state, he said +they were very ignorant & very _superstitionary_ --perhaps you have +heard the word before- I never did-- + +Sunday morn- We had good beds last night, contrary to my expectation,- +and we are going on our journey this morning- It is extremely cold & +very bad riding or walking- M^r W- has been so long detain'd by bad +weather & riding, that he thinks himself justifiable in riding on the +sabbath- I thought so some time ago-- + +Sunday noon- We are on the top of Laurel Hill, the 6^{th} mountain-- We +women & girls, have walk'd between 5 & 6 miles this morning-- We left +the waggons getting along very slowly, & came on to a house to warm us- +It is a log hut & full of children, as is every one we come to-- The +wind whistles about us, & it looks very much like snow---- One waggon +got set this morning, & hinder'd us this long time-- The young Doctor & +his father are still in company with us-- The former, who has got over +his pouting fit, leaves his father to drive,- while he walks on with the +ladies- he is not with us just now-- He has not conquer'd the antipathy +I bear a young physician-- or rather a _young Doctor_-- How little it +seems like the sabbath-- I would not write if I could do any thing +else-- but I can not even think good thoughts---- + + + + +Sunday eve-- Nov-19^{th}-- Foot of Laurel Hill--Penn-- + + +I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the +strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world-- He is either +mad or a fool-- I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me +I _can_ make a writer-- He is the most rating, ranting fellow-- I wish +you could hear him----I begin to think him mad-- His name is Smith-- He +& his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio---- I never +was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy-- repeating a +prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the +Dutchmen in Pennsylvania-- He & his wife came amongst them one evening & +stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each +one to the tavern-- He began by stating his religious tenets, & at +length after every body & thing was created, he says the _under Gods_ +(of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the skum & +stir'd it up, & those fellows came out--or rather Hell boil'd over & +they were form'd of the skum----I believe he has been studying all his +life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a +strange rate-- His language is very ungrammatical--but the Jacksons are +all in raptures with him--They cannot understand his language (nor +indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very +learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- +I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great +larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such +words without any connection--no matter if I do but bring them in some +how-- We are over the 6^{th} mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- +This m^{tn} is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles +over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The +horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad +luck-- There is a great many travellers here-the house is full---- The +young D^r told me he was married, to day-- I like him rather better than +I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me +the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part +of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting-- Susan chose to ride +down the hill, & I outwalk'd M^{rs} W, so we were quite alone till we +reach'd this house- M^{rs} Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I +every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got +here-- I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can +write no more to night. + +Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd +to pass the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was +quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half +longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I +had a long crying spell-- This morning I feel almost sick-- M^r W-is so +much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is +served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party +here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 +of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last-- This strange +man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about +them- He has been repeating one of M^r Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- +& one of M^r Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a +very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He +has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a +girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be nobody---- It rain'd very +fast last night- & is more muddy than ever-- + + + + +Monday night- a mile west of the mountains- + + +Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the +mountains, so call'd-- I do not suppose we shall be much better off than +we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a +mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we +have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are +over the mountains-- We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M^{tn} +this afternoon- It is 5 miles over--12 miles we have come to day-- +There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the M^{tn}- One +house on the top of it-- We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid +of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an +_unpossibility_ (M^r Newington) I am more out of patience than ever-- We +came on to the 4^{th} tavern after we got down,- because we thought +those behind us, would stop sooner- M^{rs} Jackson & her tribe were with +us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a +little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & +we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on +our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all +scream out- M^{rs} Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said +he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got +fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to +talk us to death-- He pass'd us on the road, singing & screaming, +advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch-- We +are now 41 miles from Pitt---- + + + + +Nov^{br} 21^{st} Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn- + + +We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles-- Last night we +had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the D^r & his +father-M^r & M^{rs} W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out +of their room again-- The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- +they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, +after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we +were the night before, was very welcome-- The landlord has been a +waggoner-"Only look at that now"-A clever waggoner! I cannot but think +his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his +waggon---- After riding a little way, we overtook M^r Smith again, & +found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by +calling him a damn'd Yankee-before they ended M^r S- whipt 3 of them- I +was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it-- M^r S- +lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, +he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He +lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will +listen to him-- As for the D^r, he is "nothing but a pester"- Susan & I +took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of +his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk +faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife +soon-We pass'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high +hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but M^r +W- did not stop, so the D^r follow'd on & left his father, & waited at +another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, +as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us +to follow- The D^r came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by +his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his +company-- We have escap'd hearing M^r S- talk, which I would not be +oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour- + +Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time +as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some +waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & +cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well +inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I +think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe +it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall +lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- +This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The +weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably +rains every day-- + + + + +Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township- + + +Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good +fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were +oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable +addition to our party-- We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at +night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented +M^r W- from stopping at a private house, which we pass'd- I did not +think of his wishing it till M^{rs} J-mentioned it, I then set out to +return, but saw the waggon coming & sat down on a log- We did not reach +a tavern till some time after dark- & M^r W-got hurt & his waggon got +set-, & he feels unpleasantly towards me, & thinks me the whole cause of +his trouble-- The whole family feel & treat me differently this morning, +& I can not think myself to blame- for we are oblig'd to walk almost all +the time, & if we are behind the waggon M^r W- always is angry-- M^{rs} +W- Susan & I, were oblig'd to walk, till we found a house, & if the +young D^r had not been with us, I don't know but we should have pass'd +the night in the woods - but he was so good as to assist us - The +gentlemen all reach'd the tavern before us, & when M^r W- came & told +his trouble, they very kindly went back & assisted him-- There were but +two beds to be had, so M^r Smith gave up his place to me, & M^r & M^{rs} +W took the other-- The gentlemen were very noisy all night, as they +could not lie down-- I am much better pleas'd with M^r & M^{rs} Smith, +than I was before- He is a lawyer- & I believe knows more, than I at +first suspected-- He is a great talker, & has a story for everything- We +came 14 miles yesterday-- To day I am so dreadfully lame that every step +I take, almost brings tears- my feet are sore with walking- + + + + +Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn- + + +One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our +journey's end-- Yesterday we came about 3 miles-- After coming down an +awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came +to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them +would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while M^r W-was +attempting to unharness them, & M^{rs} W- & Susan were on the bank, +calling for help-- I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but was +happily disappointed in my expectation-- No assistance could be got- +till M^r W- waded though the water, & then 2 men with 3 horses came +over-- We came to this Inn, & M^r W- thought it best to stay till this +morning- All our company have gone on- M^r Smith invited me to ride with +his wife, on to Pitts'^g- & I on some accounts, wish I had accepted his +invitation-indeed I could scarcely get beside it-- + +We found a gentleman (Doctor I presume by his looks-) here, who was very +sociable & staid an hour with us- He appear'd to be a man of good +information & considerable politeness-- We found the landlord very good +natur'd & obliging, & his wife directly the contrary-- We find the men +generally, much more so than their wives-- We are 12 miles from +Pitt----& here like to be- The landlord offers to keep Susan & me, till +spring, & let the old folks go on-- We got into the slough of Despond +yesterday-& are now at the foot of the hill Difficulty- which is half a +mile long- one waggon is already fast in the mud on it- & M^r W- is +afraid to attempt it himself--I think I will winter here---- + + + + +Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'^g- Penn- + + +This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing +very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that +little distance-M^r W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep +it from lying down-- We could not ride at all & stopt at the first +tavern we came to--We are afraid the horse will die & then what will +become of us?---- I am more than ever discouraged- + +Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out again---- + + + + +Nov^{br} 26- Saturday night- 3-1/2 miles beyond Pittsburg- + + +Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, M^r W- found he +had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, +while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon-- M^r W- came +about an hour after---- After getting well warm, Susan & I were going +out to view the town, when M^r W- came & hurried us away, as he wished +to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, +I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is not one half as +large as I suppos'd- but I am unable to give you any account of it, from +my own observation-- It is situated at the confluence of the 2 rivers, +the Alleghany, & Monongahela- The town suffer'd very much by the flood- +One house floated down the river- its inhabitants were in the upper part +of it calling for assistance-none could be render'd & what became of +them I did not learn- I believe it is not known- It was late before we +could cross the river (Alleghany) & we came on but 3 miles & a half to +a very good tavern- The man & his wife are both good natur'd--We found +the road to day, better than for a long time-- We left almost all the +stones when we cross'd the last mountain- & to day I believe we have +cross'd the last hills of any consequence- We are now- "on the banks of +the pleasant Ohio"---- + +Sunday eve- It has been all day & still is, raining another flood I +fear- All the men in the neighborhood came here to keep the sabbath by +drinking whiskey &c &c- but no swearing-- I sat reading very quietly & +one of them came & desir'd to look over me- I very much doubted whether +he could read, but he convinc'd me he could by his observations, which +were given with such a tobacco breath as almost suffocated me- He was +not more than half shaved, & could read without spelling more than half +the words- for he would read a page & half in an hour, nearly-- There is +a sweet little boy here about 3 years old- He has been writing with me +some time & talks so much to me that I am as slow writing as this man +was reading-- This is the 6th sabbath since I left you-- We have lost +our company--I quite want to see some of them again-- + + + + +Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn- + + +I have had no opport^y of writing you for 3 days-before now- We set out +in the rain on Monday, & came on 13 miles- to a hut- with a sign up +call'd a tavern- & such a place!- I found the people belong'd to a very +ancient & noble family- They were first & second cousins to his _Satanic +Majesty_- I could but wonder that he should suffer them to lead so +laborious a life, for they are among his most faithful friends & +subjects-- Probably they are more useful to him in that station, by +increasing the number of his subjects-- Their dwelling resembles that of +their royal cousin- for it is very dark & gloomy & only lighted by a +great fire- No one who is once caught in it, ever wishes to be again-- +The man is only related by marriage to his lordship---- + + + + +Wednesday eve-- + + +The house had only one room in it-- There was a number of travellers & +we got but one bed- that was straw or something harder- The pillow case +had been on 5 or 6 years I _reckon_, so I pin'd over my handkerchief- & +put night gown over my frock--We rose an hour before day break, got +breakfast & set out in the snow for another hut- We rode several miles +on the Northern bank of the Ohio- We saw a very large rock containing a +great many names-we added ours to the number-- The road was at the foot +of a very high hill or mountain, & so near the river, there was scarcely +room for a waggon- I rode in constant fear, for the bank down to the +river, was very high and steep-- We came on 12 miles, to Beaver town, on +Tuesday- We cross'd the big Beaver, a stream which empties into the +Ohio- It is generally, fordable, but is at present so rais'd by the +rain, that a flat is used-- We found a very good Inn at Beaver town; & +soon after supper, Judge Austin & a M^r Weatherby (Merchant-) of Warren, +came in--Not Dobson nor Stephenson)-- I felt as glad to see them & as +well acquainted with them in a few minutes, as if we had all our lives +been neighbors--The Judge, resembles D^r Goodsel in his looks:- but is +older & larger- M^r Weatherby looks like T. Devereaux--They both, told +me they were sorry M^r Edwards did not know I was on the road, that he +might have sent an horse after me-- They were on their way to Pitt^g but +Judge A, had some idea of returning immediately back to Warren, & they +had a mind to hire a horse & have me return with him, but M^r Wolcott +objected-- I can guess his reason for it, but I will not write it-- I +very much wish'd it, as I fear I shall be oblig'd to walk a good part of +the way- M^r W- says it would not hurt any of us to walk 9 miles every +day of our lives- I told him I should not like to walk it in stormy +weather, as we are now oblig'd to; but he said it would not hurt me if I +shouldn't-- I have already worn out my boots almost entirely, with +walking-- M^r W- is a very strange man- I don't know what to make of him +--I shall be so thankful to get thro'- & then if I am caught with a +Deacon of any name, again, I shall deserve to suffer-- We are within 40 +miles of Warren, & to be unable to get there under 4 or 5 days, is +perfectly tantalizing-- We came 10-1/2 miles to day, & are at a very +comfortable Inn, just in the edge of Greersburg- We expected to get a +little further, to Hart's tavern quite in the town: & there I hop'd to +see judge Austin again, & I determin'd at any rate to accept his offer +of getting me a horse, & go directly on with him, for I do not intend to +walk 9 miles a day till we get there, if I can help it- even if it will +not hurt me-- I won't take the _good_ deacon's word for that. The horses +are really tir'd out & out, & every day by the time we get 4 miles they +will stop & it is extremely difficult to get them on at all- but it is +so _expensive_ hiring a horse to go on, that as long as the waggon +alone, can be drawn 3 or 4 miles a day, it will not be done--but I feel +provoked, as you will easily see, so I will write no more on this +subject---- I am so anxious to end my journey, that I have lost all +interest about the country I pass through-- it snows or rains every day, +constantly-- I think in good weather, the ride from Warren to Pitts^g +must be pleasant- If that were at present the case, my journal would be +as much more interesting, as my journey would be pleasanter-- I am quite +tir'd of both, but still so habituated to them, that I think it will +seem very strange for a few days after I end them, (if I _live_ after +that time) not to run out the waggon as soon as I have eaten my +breakfast--& not to have my journal in my work-bag to fill it up-- It is +very troublesome I assure you-- I fear it will be worn out before you +get it- it is already very dirty, & so badly written you will never read +half of it-- + + + + +Thursday eve- + + +10 miles as usual has been our days ride-- I have not walk'd my 9 +miles, but I walk'd as much as I could- We are in a comfortable house +before an excellent fire- It is snowing very fast-- + + + + +Saturday- P M- WARREN- After so long a time-- + + +Friday morning we set out early with the hope of getting to Youngstown +at night & to Warren to night, but 4 miles from Y----n, the horses were +so tir'd they would not stir, so we stopt at a private house for the +night, an hour before sun down-- We had been in the house but a little +time, when Susan look'd out & told me she thought there was some one +after me, & I soon saw M^r Edwards & 2 horses-- "I was never so happy I +think"-- I ran out to meet him- He came in & set a while, & just at dark +we started for Youngstown-- M^r Edwards insisted upon Susan's going with +us, so she rode behind him, and I rode the single horse-- We reach'd +_Cousin_ Joseph Woodbridge's about the middle of the eve-- They got us a +good supper & gave us a bed-- M^{rs} W- is a very pretty woman (I mean +pleasing)- They have 3 children, & appear to be very well off, (you +understand me) & happy-- They live in a very comfortable log house, +pleasantly situated-A cousin in this country, is not to be slighted I +assure you- I would give more for one in this country, than for 20 in +old Connecticut-- This morning M^{rs} Todd came over to see us, & urg'd +us to stay & spend the day with her-- But spite of her solicitations, we +set out for Warren soon after breakfast--My horse was extremely dull & +we did not get here till near 2 oclock-- Cousin Louisa was as happy to +see me as I could wish, & I think I shall be very happy & contented-- +The town is pleasanter than I expected- The house better- & the children +as fine--Cousin has alter'd very little, in any way--I found a M^rs +Waldo here just going to Connecticut, & lest I should not have another +opport^y, I intend sending this by them, without even time to read it +over & correct it-- I _am_ asham'd of it My dear Elizabeth, & were it +not for my promise to you, I don't know that I should dare to send it-- +I will write your Mama by mail, I have not time for a letter now--My +very best love to every body-- I have a great deal more to say, but no +more time than just to tell you, I am ever + + & most affect^{ly} Yours- + + M V D---- + + Let no one see this but your own family-- + + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's note + + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + +Page vi: "doutbless" changed to "doubtless". + +Page 8: "to night" changed to "to-night". + +Page 15: "the appear" changed to "they appear". + +Page 19: "where we going" changed to "where we were going". + +Page 53: "but is is an" changed to "but it is an". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey to Ohio in 1810, by +Margaret van Horn Dwight + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY TO OHIO IN 1810 *** + +***** This file should be named 36126.txt or 36126.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/1/2/36126/ + +Produced by Carla Foust and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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