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diff --git a/36128.txt b/36128.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..16b5f32 --- /dev/null +++ b/36128.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1939 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Grand Teton [Wyoming] National Park, by +United States Dept. of the Interior + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Grand Teton [Wyoming] National Park + +Author: United States Dept. of the Interior + +Release Date: May 17, 2011 [EBook #36128] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GRAND TETON [WYOMING] *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Diane Monico, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + +Grand Teton +[WYOMING] +National Park + +United States Department of the Interior +_Harold L. Ickes, Secretary_ + +NATIONAL PARK SERVICE +_Arno B. Cammerer, Director_ + +[Illustration] + +UNITED STATES +GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE +WASHINGTON: 1937 + + + + +DO YOU KNOW YOUR NATIONAL PARKS? + + + ACADIA, MAINE.--Combination of mountain and seacoast scenery. + Established 1919; 24.08 square miles. + + BRYCE CANYON, UTAH.--Canyons filled with exquisitely colored + pinnacles. Established 1928; 55.06 square miles. + + CARLSBAD CAVERNS, N. MEX.--Beautifully decorated limestone caverns + believed largest yet discovered. Established 1930; 15.56 square + miles. + + CRATER LAKE, OREG.--Astonishingly beautiful lake in crater of + extinct volcano. Established 1902; 250.52 square miles. + + GENERAL GRANT, CALIF.--Celebrated General Grant Tree and grove of + Big Trees. Established 1890; 3.96 square miles. + + GLACIER, MONT.--Unsurpassed alpine scenery; 200 lakes; 60 glaciers. + Established 1910; 1,533.88 square miles. + + GRAND CANYON, ARIZ.--World's greatest example of erosion. + Established 1919; 1,009.08 square miles. + + GRAND TETON, WYO.--Most spectacular portion of Teton Mountains. + Established 1929; 150 square miles. + + GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS, N. C.-TENN.--Massive mountain uplift covered + with magnificent forests. Established for protection 1930; 617 + square miles. + + HAWAII: ISLANDS OF HAWAII AND MAUI.--Volcanic areas of great + interest, including Kilauea, famous for frequent spectacular + outbursts. Established 1916; 245 square miles. + + HOT SPRINGS, ARK.--Forty-seven hot springs reserved by the Federal + Government in 1832 to prevent exploitation of waters. Made national + park in 1921; 1.58 square miles. + + LASSEN VOLCANIC, CALIF.--Only recently active volcano in + continental United States. Established 1916; 163.32 square miles. + + MAMMOTH CAVE, KY.--Interesting caverns, including spectacular onyx + cave formation. Established for protection 1936; 38.34 square + miles. + + MESA VERDE, COLO.--Most notable cliff dwellings in United States. + Established 1906; 80.21 square miles. + + MOUNT McKINLEY, ALASKA.--Highest mountain in North America. + Established 1917; 3,030.46 square miles. + + MOUNT RAINIER, WASH.--Largest accessible single-peak glacier + system. Established 1899; 377.78 square miles. + + PLATT, OKLA.--Sulphur and other springs. Established 1902; 1.33 + square miles. + + ROCKY MOUNTAIN, COLO.--Peaks from 11,000 to 14,255 feet in heart of + Rockies. Established 1915; 405.33 square miles. + + SEQUOIA, CALIF.--General Sherman, largest and perhaps oldest tree + in the world; outstanding groves of Sequoia gigantea. Established + 1890; 604 square miles. + + SHENANDOAH, VA.--Outstanding scenic area in Virginia section of + Blue Ridge. Established 1935; 275.81 square miles. + + WIND CAVE, S. DAK.--Beautiful cavern of peculiar formations. No + stalactites or stalagmites. Established 1903; 18.47 square miles. + + YELLOWSTONE: WYO.-MONT.-IDAHO.--World's greatest geyser area, and + an outstanding game sanctuary. Established 1872; 3,471.51 square + miles. + + YOSEMITE, CALIF.--Valley of world-famous beauty; spectacular + waterfalls; magnificent High Sierra country. Established 1890; + 1,176.16 square miles. + + ZION, UTAH.--Beautiful Zion Canyon 1,500 to 2,500 feet deep. + Spectacular coloring. Established 1919; 148.26 square miles. + + + + +RULES AND REGULATIONS + + +The Park Regulations are designed for the protection of the natural +beauties as well as for the comfort and convenience of visitors. The +following synopsis is for the general guidance of visitors, who are +requested to assist in the administration of the park by observing them. +Copies of the complete rules and regulations promulgated by the +Secretary of the Interior for the government of the park may be obtained +at the office of the superintendent and at other points of concentration +throughout the park. + +The destruction, injury, defacement, or disturbance of any buildings, +signs, equipment, trees, flowers, vegetation, rocks, minerals, animal, +bird, or other life is prohibited. + +Camps must be kept clean. Rubbish and garbage should be burned. Refuse +should be placed in cans provided for this purpose. If no cans are +provided where camp is made, refuse should be buried. + +Do not throw paper, lunch refuse, or other trash on the roads and +trails. Carry until the same can be burned in camp or placed in +receptacle. + +Fires shall be lighted only when necessary and when no longer needed +shall be completely extinguished. No lighted cigarette, cigar, match, or +other burning material shall be thrown from any vehicle or saddle animal +or dropped into any leaves, grass, twigs, or tree mold. Smoking or the +building of fires may be prohibited by the superintendent when the +hazard makes such action necessary. + +The hunting, killing, wounding, frightening, capturing, or attempting to +capture any wild bird or animal is prohibited. Firearms are prohibited +within the park except with the written permission of the +superintendent. + +When fishing, avoid closed waters. Except where otherwise posted, the +limit for a day's catch is 10 fish. The possession of more than 2 days' +catch at any one time is prohibited. Fishing in any way other than with +hook and line is prohibited. + +Still- and motion-picture cameras may be freely used by amateurs in +the park for general scenic purposes. + +No pictures for commercial use may be taken without special permission +from the superintendent. + +All mountain climbers must report at a ranger station before and after +making the ascent of any peak. No solo climbs are permitted in this +park. + +Drive carefully at all times. Muffler cut-outs must be kept closed. +Speed limits must be observed. All accidents must be reported at the +nearest ranger station or to the office of the superintendent. + +The penalty for violation of the rules and regulations is a fine not +exceeding $500, or imprisonment not exceeding 6 months, or both, +together with all costs of the proceedings. + +_=The Government is not responsible for accidents of any nature.=_ + + + + +Events OF HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE + + ++--------+-----------------------------------------------------------+ +| 1807-8 | Discovery of the Tetons by John Colter. | +| | | +| 1811 | The Astorians crossed Teton Pass. | +| | | +|1810-45 | "The Fur Era" in the Rocky Mountains, which reached its | +| | height between 1825 and 1840. | +| | | +| 1829 | Capt. William Sublette named Jackson Hole after his | +| | partner in the fur trade, David Jackson. | +| | | +| 1832 | Rendezvous of the fur trappers in Pierres Hole; the | +| | Battle of Pierres Hole. | +| | | +| 1835 | Rev. Samuel Parker conducted the first Protestant service | +| | in the Rocky Mountains a few miles south of the Tetons. | +| | | +| 1843 | Michaud attempted an ascent of the Grand Teton. | +| | | +| 1860 | Jim Bridger guided Capt. W. F. Reynolds' expedition | +| | through the Teton country. | +| | | +| 1872 | William H. Jackson, with a geological party of the Hayden | +| | survey in the Tetons, secured the first photographs of | +| | these famous landmarks. | +| | | +| 1877 | The Hayden survey party of Orestes St. John made | +| | geological studies in the Tetons. | +| | | +| 1879 | Thomas Moran painted the Teton Range. | +| | | +| 1884 | The first settlers entered Jackson Hole. | +| | | +| 1897 | Teton Forest Reserve created. | +| | | +| 1898 | The first major Teton peaks scaled (Buck Mountain and | +| | Grand Teton). | +| | | +| 1909 | The Upper Gros Ventre landslide. | +| | | +| 1925 | The Lower Gros Ventre landslide. | +| | | +| 1927 | The Gros Ventre flood. | +| | | +| 1929 | Grand Teton National Park created and dedicated. | +| | | +| 1930 | The last major Teton peaks scaled (Nez Perce and Mount | +| | Owen). | ++--------+-----------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + +Contents + + + Page + +History of the Region 2 + +Geographic Features 6 + + Teton Range 6 + + Jackson Hole 8 + +The Work of Glaciers 8 + +Trails 10 + +Mountain Climbing 13 + +Wildlife 17 + +Trees and Plants 19 + +Naturalist Service 21 + +Fishing 23 + +Swimming 23 + +Hunting 23 + +Dude Ranches 23 + +Administration 24 + +How to Reach the Park 24 + + By Automobile 24 + + By Railroad 24 + + By Airplane 25 + +Points of Interest Along the Way 25 + +Accommodations and Expenses 26 + + Public Campgrounds 27 + + Saddle Horses 27 + + Boating 27 + + Guide Service 27 + + Photographs 27 + + Motor Transportation 28 + +Bibliography 28 + +Government Publications 30 + +[Illustration: TEEWINOT ACROSS JENNY LAKE + +_Crandall photo._] + + + + +GRAND TETON _National Park_ + +OPEN FROM JUNE 1 TO OCTOBER 15 + + +The GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK embraces the most scenic portion of the +Teton Range of Wyoming, with an area of approximately 150 square miles, +or 96,000 acres. It varies from 3 to 9 miles in width and is 27 miles in +length. The northern extremity of the park is about 11 miles south of +the southern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. This park was +established by President Coolidge on February 26, 1929. + +In addition to its sublime peaks and canyons, the Grand Teton National +Park includes six large lakes and many smaller bodies of water, +glaciers, and snowfields, and extensive forests of pine, fir, spruce, +cottonwood, and aspen. However, much of the park area is above timber +line (10,500 feet), the Grand Teton rising to more than 7,000 feet above +the floor of Jackson Hole. + +The great array of peaks which constitutes the scenic climax of this +national park is one of the noblest in the world. It is alpine in the +truest sense. Southwest of Jenny Lake is a culminating group of lofty +peaks whose dominating figure is the Grand Teton, the famous mountain +after which the park takes its name. The resemblance of this group, +whose clustered, tapering spires tower aloft to a height of thousands of +feet and are hung with never-melting snowfields, to a vast cathedral, +must suggest itself to every observer. + +However widely traveled, visitors viewing the Tetons for the first time +confess that the beauty of this park and the rugged grandeur of its +mountains come to them as a distinct revelation. This is amply proved by +the increasingly large number of visitors who return summer after summer +to spend their vacations in the Grand Teton National Park. The +recreational possibilities of these mountains, they have found, are +practically limitless. Here they may camp on the lakes, swim and fish, +ride or hike the trails, engage in the strenuous sport of +mountaineering, or--if their needs and wishes so dictate--simply relax +and rest. + +The Grand, Middle, and South Tetons comprise the historic _Trois +Tetons_, which were noted landmarks to the trappers and explorers of the +early nineteenth century. The Three Tetons are seen to best advantage +from the west and southwest. As the observer's viewpoint is shifted, the +major peaks change greatly in outline and relative position, but despite +this fact one soon learns to recognize each. + +Eleven peaks are of such boldness and prominence that they receive rank +as major peaks. In order of descending altitude they are: Grand Teton, +13,766 feet; Mount Owen, 12,922; Middle Teton, 12,798; Mount Moran +12,594; South Teton, 12,505; Mount Teewinot, 12,317; Buck Mountain, +11,923; Nez Perce, 11,900; Mount Woodring, 11,585; Mount Wister, 11,480; +and Mount St. John, 11,412. + +In addition to the 11 major peaks there are an even larger number of +lesser prominence and altitude, such as Cloudveil Dome, 12,026 feet; +Eagle Rest, 11,257; Prospectors Mountain, 11,231; Mount Rockchuck, +11,150; Table Mountain, 11,075; Bivouac Peak, 11,045; Rendezvous Peak, +10,924; Fossil Mountain, 10,912; Rolling Thunder, 10,902; Mount Hunt, +10,775; Symmetry Spire, 10,546; and Storm Point, 10,040, as well as a +host of nameless pinnacles and crags which serve still further to make +the Teton skyline the most jagged of any on the continent. The larger +lakes of the park--Leigh, String, Jenny, Bradley, Taggart, and +Phelps--all lie close to the foot of the range and, like beads, are +linked together by the sparkling, tumbling waters of Cottonwood Creek +and neighboring streams. Nestled in dense forests outside the mouths of +canyons, these lakes mirror in their quiet depths nearby peaks whose +pointed summits rise with sheer slopes a mile or more above their level. + +[Illustration: Grand Teton National Park Map] + + + + +HISTORY OF THE REGION + + +Many of our national parks have been carved from wilderness areas +previously little known to man and but seldom visited. The Tetons, on +the contrary, are remarkably rich in historic associations. The Grand +Teton itself has been referred to by an eminent historian as "the most +noted historic summit of the West." + +Up to the beginning of the last century Indians held undisputed sway +over the country dominated by the Three Tetons. Then, as now, Jackson +Hole was literally a happy hunting ground, and, while the severe winters +precluded permanent habitation, during the milder seasons, bands of +Indians frequently came into the basin on hunting or warring +expeditions. They represented many tribes, usually hostile to each +other. The dreaded Blackfeet, the Crows, the Nez Perce, the Flatheads, +the Shoshoni, and others. There is little reason to believe that these +Indians ever invaded the more rugged portions of the Tetons, but it is +certain they regularly crossed the range, utilizing the several passes. + +The Tetons probably first became known to white men in 1807-8, when the +intrepid John Colter crossed the range, presumably near Teton Pass on +the memorable journey which also made him discoverer of the Yellowstone +country. In 1811 the Astorians, under Wilson Price Hunt, entered Jackson +Hole by the Hoback Canyon and, failing in an attempt to navigate the +Snake River, likewise crossed the Teton Range in the vicinity of Teton +Pass, continuing thence to the mouth of the Columbia, where the trading +post, Astoria, was founded. The Tetons also figure in the adventures of +the returning Astorians in 1812. In Washington Irving's classic account +of the Astorian expedition (Astoria, published in 1836) the name +"Tetons" first appears in literature. + +The decades which follow may truly be referred to as "the Fur Era", for +the Tetons became the center of remarkable activities on the part of fur +trappers representing both British and American interests, the former by +the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies, the latter by a succession of +companies operating out of St. Louis, Mo. "It was the trio of peaks so +distinctively presented from the west and southwest that made the Tetons +famous as landmarks among the roving trappers who, guiding their courses +by these easily recognized summits, singly or in groups passed over +Teton Pass and through Pierres Hole in their seasonal migrations to and +from their remote hunting grounds." Could these ancient monuments speak +they would make known some of the most interesting events in the annals +of the fur trade. For this was the paradise of the trapper. In every +direction meandered the streams along which he pursued his trade, and +nearby were the valleys where the rival companies gathered in annual +conclave to fight the bloodless battles of their business. There is +scarcely an acre of open country in sight of it that has not been the +scene of forgotten struggles with the implacable Blackfeet, while far +and near, in unknown graves, lie many obscure wanderers of whose lonely +fate no record survives. Captain Bonneville, Father DeSmet, Rev. Samuel +Parker, Jedediah Smith, Bridger, Kit Carson, David Jackson (after whom +Jackson Hole and Jackson Lake were named), Sublette, Joe Meek--these are +names to conjure with in western history. These and many others equally +distinguished appear in the records of the Teton country, particularly +in the third and fourth decades of the century. The 1832 rendezvous of +the American trappers was held in Teton Basin, then known as "Pierre's +Hole", at the west base of the Tetons. It was attended by many of the +most famous trappers of the time, and furnished occasion for the Battle +of Pierre's Hole, a notable engagement between the trappers and Gros +Ventres. + +The picturesque name "Jackson Hole" dates back to 1829, in which year +Capt. William Sublette so named it after his fellow trapper, David E. +Jackson, who was especially partial to this beautiful valley. The term +"hole" was used by the trappers of that period in much the same sense as +is the word "basin" today, being applied to any mountain-girt valley. + +In the 1840's the value of beaver skins declined and with it the fur +trade. By 1845 the romantic trapper of "the Fur Era" had vanished from +the Rockies--not, however, without having won for himself an +imperishable place in American history. During the next four decades the +valleys near the Tetons were largely deserted, except for wandering +bands of Indians that still occasionally drifted in. But the frontier +was relentlessly closing in, and one Government expedition after another +passed through the Teton country or skirted its borders. Most important +of these were the Hayden surveys, which in 1871, 1872, 1877, and 1878 +sent parties into the region. The names of several members of the 1872 +expedition are perpetuated in connection with Leigh, Jenny, Bradley, and +Taggart Lakes. Orestes St. John, geologist with the 1877 Hayden party, +and the great artist, Thomas Moran, who in 1879 went with a military +escort to paint the Tetons, are similarly remembered in the names of two +of the principal peaks. To this transition period also belong the +earliest prospectors of Jackson Hole, as well as several famous big-game +hunters who came here in search of trophies--forerunners of the hundreds +of hunters who now annually invade this region. + +In the middle eighties came the first settlers. They entered by the Gros +Ventre River and Teton Pass, and to begin with naturally settled in the +south end of the hole. Here as elsewhere the story of the homesteader +has been one of isolation, privations, and hardships, met, however, with +persistency and indomitable courage. Nor is the story confined to the +past, for maintaining a livelihood amongst these mountains still calls +for resourcefulness, fortitude, and--not infrequently--even heroism. + +History, here, is still in the making. Teton Forest Reserve was not +created until 1897; the railroad reached Victor in 1912; the Jackson +Lake Dam was finished in 1914; many of the roads and bridges of the +region were constructed within the past decade; and the Grand Teton +National Park was created in 1929. The detailed exploration of the range +and the conquest of its high peaks have taken place in relatively recent +years, and since 1929 trails have been built which for the first time +make the Tetons really accessible to the public. + +In later paragraphs will be found an account of the mountaineering +history of the Tetons. And so the dramatic human story of these +mountains is brought down to the present. + +[Illustration: TEEWINOT, THE GRAND TETON, AND MOUNT OWEN FROM THE +NORTHEAST] + + + + +GEOGRAPHIC FEATURES + + +THE TETON RANGE + +On the Jackson Hole side the Teton Range presents one of the most +precipitous mountain fronts on the continent. Except for Teton Pass, at +its southern end, the range is practically an insuperable barrier. Forty +miles in length, it springs abruptly from Jackson Hole and only a few +miles west of its base attains elevations of more than 13,000 feet above +the sea. Thus most of the range is lifted above timber line into the +realm of perpetual snow, and in its deeper recesses small glaciers still +linger. The grandeur of the beetling gray crags, sheer precipices, and +perennial snow fields, is vastly enhanced on this side by the total +absence of foothills and by contrast with the relatively flat floor of +Jackson Hole, from which they are usually viewed. + +The Teton Range may be described as a long block of the earth that has +been broken and uplifted along its eastern margin, thus being tilted +westward. Movement of this sort along a fracture is what the geologist +terms "faulting." The total amount of uplift along the eastern edge of +the block amounts to more than 10,000 feet. Doubtless this uplift was +accomplished not by one cataclysm but by a series of small faulting +movements distributed over a very long period. Probably the time of +faulting was as remote as the middle of the Tertiary period (the period +just before the Ice Age, the latest chapter of the earth's history). + +Very impressive is the contrast between the east and west sides of the +Teton Range. From the east, the Jackson Hole side, one views the +precipitous side of the mountain block as it has been exposed by uplift +and erosion. From the west, the Idaho side, is seen the broad top of the +block, which is gently inclined toward the west. In the eastern front, +furthermore, one sees the ancient, deep-seated crystalline rocks +(gneiss, schist, and pegmatite) belonging to the earliest known geologic +eras, the pre-Cambrian. In places on the top of the block, at the head +of Death and Avalanche Canyons, for example, are seen the inclined +layers of limestone, quartzite, and shale belonging to the less ancient +Paleozoic era. These layers formerly covered the entire block, but they +have been worn away from half of the area, thus exposing the underlying +crystallines. The west and north flanks of the range are overlapped by +relatively young beds of lava that are continuous with those covering +eastern Idaho and the Yellowstone plateaus. + +[Illustration: NORTH VIEW OF TETONS] + + +JACKSON HOLE + +Jackson Hole, which adjoins the park on the southeast, is one of the +most sequestered valleys in the Rockies, encompassed on all sides as it +is by mountain barriers. It is 48 miles long, for the most part 6 to 8 +miles wide, and embraces an area of more than 400 square miles. The +floor of the valley slopes from an altitude of 7,000 feet at the north +end to 6,000 at the south. Jackson Hole lies a few miles west of the +Continental Divide, and occupies the central portion of the headwaters +area of the Snake River. Mountain streams converge radially toward it +from the surrounding highlands, and the Snake River receives these as it +flows through the valley. + +Jackson Hole has largely been excavated by the Snake River and its +tributaries from the shale formations which once extended over the +region to a depth of several thousand feet. Rocks surrounding the +region, being more resistant, were reduced less rapidly and therefore +have been left standing in relief as highlands. + + + + +THE WORK OF GLACIERS + + +Here, as in several other national parks, the glaciers of the Ice Age, +known to the geologist as the Pleistocene period, played a leading role +in developing the extraordinary scenic features. Just as the streams now +converge toward Jackson Hole, so in ages past glaciers moved down +toward, and in many instances into, the basin from the highlands to the +east, north, and west. Detailed study has shown that the Ice Age was not +a single, simple episode, but is divisible into "stages"--glacial +stages, during which extensive ice fields formed, and interglacial +stages, during which these were largely or wholly withdrawn. The +duration of each is to be thought of in terms of tens of thousands of +years. In Jackson Hole, three glacial and two interglacial stages have +been recognized. Only the most recent glacial stage need concern us +here, the other two having occurred so long ago that their records are +much obscured. + +This stage ended but yesterday, geologically speaking, and to it is due +much of the grandeur of the region. In the Teton Range every canyon from +Phillips northward contained a glacier, and many of these reached +eastward to the base of the range where they spread widely upon the +floor of Jackson Hole. Where Jackson Lake now is there lay a great, +sluggish field of ice resulting from the confluence of adjacent alpine +glaciers. + +Moraines, outwash plains, and lakes are easily recognizable features +that originated during the latest glacial stages, and most of the peaks +and canyons were greatly modified. + +Moraines are deposits of debris, piled up by the ice itself. Such are +the heavily wooded, hummocky embankments which rest along the base of +the mountains from Granite Canyon northward, rising in some cases 200 or +300 feet above the floor of Jackson Hole and heaped with enormous +boulders quarried by the ice far back in the range. + +With two exceptions each of the large moraines incloses a lake. In this +way Phelps, Taggart, Bradley, Jenny, Leigh, and Jackson Lakes +originated; all ranged along the western border of Jackson Hole. No +lakes were formed along the eastern border, inasmuch as on this side no +glaciers extended beyond their canyons. String Lake is dammed in part by +a gravel fill. + +Outwash plains are the deposits formed by streams which, during the Ice +Age, issued from the glaciers. Of this origin are the broad, +cobble-strewn flats, usually overgrown with sage, which cover the floor +of Jackson Hole. They are diversified by bars, abandoned stream +channels, terraces and "pitted plains", features of exceptional interest +to one who examines them in detail. Several isolated buttes--Signal, +Blacktail, and the Gros Ventre Buttes--rise like islands a thousand feet +or more above these flats. + +[Illustration: PROFILE OF THE YELLOWSTONE-GRAND TETON REGION] + +Each canyon gives evidence of the vigor with which the glacier it once +contained gouged out its channel. In many places the rock of the broad +floors and steep sides is still remarkably polished. Every canyon leads +up to one or more amphitheaters, or cirques, with sheer bare walls +hundreds of feet high. Tracing these ice-gouged canyons headward one +will discover many rock-rimmed lakelets, some hung on precipitous +mountain sides where one might be pardoned for asserting that no lake +could possibly exist. + +[Illustration: A CREVASSE IN TETON GLACIER + +_Crandall photo._] + +[Illustration: WINTER SCENE IN THE TETONS + +_Copyright, Crandall._] + + + + +TRAILS + + +An unbroken wilderness a few years ago, the Grand Teton National Park is +now penetrated by some of the finest trails in the national-park system. +These trails, suitable alike for travel afoot or on saddle horses, are 3 +to 4 feet wide, free of boulders, and of grade so moderate they may be +followed by old or young with full safety and a minimum of physical +exertion. While the trails are traversable during the greater part of +the summer, some of them may be blocked by snow early in the season. +Those visitors expecting to climb the high trails should inquire at park +headquarters or the office at the museum at Jenny Lake for information +regarding the condition of the high trails. + +=_The Lakes Trail_= runs parallel to the mountains, following closely +the base of the range and skirting the shore of each large body of water +from Leigh Lake at the north to Phelps Lake at the south. It makes +accessible the most important lakes, canyons, and peaks of the park, and +is naturally the one from which all expeditions into the range begin. +One can encircle by trail either Jenny Lake or String Lake, the hike +around the former being one of the most popular in the park. + +=_The Canyon Trails_= described below are spur trails extending westward +from the Lakes Trail, back into the most rugged areas in the Teton +Range. Intervening canyons have been left in their splendid wildness. + +=_The Teton Glacier Trail_= extends up the east slope of the Grand Teton +to two alpine lakes, Surprise and Amphitheater, at altitudes close to +10,000 feet. By means of the 17 switchbacks on this trail the hiker or +horseman climbs to a point on the face of the Grand Teton, 3,000 feet +above the floor of the valley, throughout this ascent enjoying matchless +panoramas of the entire Jackson Hole country, and witnesses a view +extending eastward 80 miles to the Wind River Mountains, whose peaks and +glaciers are sharply outlined against the horizon. Amphitheater Lake, at +the end of the trail, occupies a protected glacial cirque and is the +starting point for Teton Glacier, the most accessible of the ice fields, +three-fourths of a mile northwest from the end of the trail. Though +seasoned hikers make the climb from Jenny Lake to the glacier by way of +this trail, one can, if he chooses, take horses as far as Amphitheater +Lake, and continue on foot with a guide over to the glacier. + +=_The Indian Paintbrush Trail_= starts near the outlet of Leigh Lake and +follows up the bottom of Indian Paintbrush Canyon to connect with the +Cascade Canyon Trail by way of Lake Solitude, a lakelet of rarest beauty +at timber line near the head of the north fork of Cascade Canyon. The +wealth of wild flowers along this trail gives name to the canyon, and +early or late in the day one may see big game, especially moose, near +the lakes and swamps. This trail affords superb views of Jackson and +Leigh Lakes eastward beyond the mouth of the canyon, and westward along +the Divide glimpses of snowclad ridges and peaks. + +=_The Cascade Canyon Trail_= passes through a chasm whose walls rise +sheer on either side for thousands of feet. By this trail one penetrates +into the deepest recesses of the Tetons. It skirts the base of several +of the noblest peaks, Teewinot, Mount Owen, Table Mountain, and the +Three Tetons, and it enables one to see these titans not only at close +range but from new and impressive angles. Lake Solitude may be reached +by means of this trail, by taking the Cascade Canyon-Indian Paintbrush +loop trail leading up the north fork of Cascade Canyon. + +=_The Death Canyon Trail_= traverses the full length of a canyon which +in its lower portion is of profound depth and grandeur, as awesome as +its name, but which above opens into broad, sunny meadows. No canyon +better illustrates the difference between the rugged, alpine landscapes +developed in the crystalline rock of the Teton east border and the +softer contours formed in the sedimentary strata to the west, near the +Divide. + +[Illustration: ALONG THE TRAIL AT THE HEAD OF CASCADE CANYON + +_Grant photo._] + +=_The Skyline Trail_= is that portion of the trail system which connects +the Indian Paintbrush, Cascade Canyon, and Death Canyon Trails. +Following down the north fork, then up the south fork of Cascade Canyon, +it crosses the head of Avalanche Canyon to Alaska Basin, in the western +watershed of the Tetons, thence over a high saddle on Buck Mountain and +down a series of switchbacks to join the Death Canyon Trail. This trail +takes the hiker, or rider, through alpine meadows to rugged cliffs and +ledges above timber line from which can be viewed to the westward the +valleys and mountains of Idaho, as well as the Wyoming country to the +east as far as the Wind River Range. In traversing this loop one +completely encircles the three Tetons and adjacent high peaks, viewing +them from all sides, and learns to know them with an intimacy impossible +to the visitor who contents himself with distant views. + + + + +MOUNTAIN CLIMBING + + +Among American climbers no range enjoys higher rank than the Tetons, and +its growing fame abroad is evidenced by increasingly large numbers of +foreign mountaineers who come here to climb. Leading mountaineers +unhesitatingly rank many of the Teton climbs with the best in the Alps +and other world-famous climbing centers. Though the majority of climbs +must be considered difficult even for mountaineers of skill and wide +experience, there are several peaks, notably the Middle Teton, South +Teton, and Mount Woodring, which have relatively easy routes that may be +safely followed by anyone of average strength. + +Although the conquest of the Tetons has largely been accomplished within +the decade just closed, the beginnings of mountaineering go back nearly +a century. Naturally the Grand Teton was first to be challenged and the +Wyoming historian, Coutant, records that in 1843 a French explorer, +Michaud, with a well-organized party, attempted its ascent but was +stopped short of the summit by unscalable cliffs. It is possible that +even earlier white men--trappers and explorers--matched their strength +and strategy against this peak or others in the Tetons, but if so their +efforts have gone unrecorded. From the period of the Hayden surveys in +the seventies, accounts of several attempts have come down to us, and +one party, consisting of N. P. Langford and James Stevenson, purported +to have reached the summit on July 29, 1872. This claim to first ascent +has been generally discredited because of the serious discrepancies +between Langford's published account and the actual conditions on the +peak as now known. In 1891 and again in 1897 William O. Owen, pioneer +Wyoming surveyor, headed attempts to reach the summit which likewise +failed. Finally in 1898 a party sponsored by the Rocky Mountain Club, of +Colorado, and comprising Owen, Bishop Franklin S. Spalding, John Shive, +and Frank Petersen, on August 11 discovered the traverse which, 700 feet +beneath the summit, leads around the northwest face and so opens up a +clear route to the top. + +[Illustration: THE ICY WATERS OF CASCADE CANYON + +_Copyright, Crandall._] + +The conquest of the Grand Teton achieved, public interest waned and a +quarter century elapsed before the peak was again scaled. In 1923 two +parties retraced the route of 1898, and each year thereafter numerous +ascents have been made. In recent years as many as 30 to 40 parties have +climbed the peak each summer. + +Repeated efforts were made to achieve the summit of the Grand Teton by +routes other than the traditional one, and in 1929 one of these resulted +in a successful ascent of the east ridge by Kenneth A. Henderson and +Robert L. M. Underhill. In 1931 no less than three additional routes +were discovered: the southwest ridge was climbed by Glenn Exum; the +southeast ridge by Underhill, Phil Smith, and Frank Truslow; and the +north face by Underhill and Fritiof Fryxell. In 1936 a second route up +the extremely hazardous north face was established by Paul and Eldon +Petzoldt and Jack Durrance. Thus, six wholly distinct routes have been +employed on this mountain, though only the traditional route and +possibly the southwest ridge can be recommended to any except most +expert alpinists. + +Within the last decade other peaks in the range have come in for more +and more attention. This they richly deserve, since from both a scenic +and mountaineering standpoint many of them are worthy peers of the Grand +Teton itself. Mount Moran, Mount Owen, Teewinot, Nez Perce, and the +Middle Teton comprise a mountain assemblage which, for nobility of form +and grandeur, would be difficult to equal anywhere. + +So far as known, Buck Mountain, most southerly of the "Matterhorn +peaks", was the first major peak in the range to be scaled, the ascent +being made early in 1898 by the topographical party of T. M. Bannon. +Thereafter no important ascents were made until 1919, when LeRoy Jeffers +scaled the lower summit of Mount Moran. The main summit of this peak was +first climbed in 1922 by L. H. Hardy, Ben C. Rich, and Bennet McNulty. +In 1923 A. R. Ellingwood climbed both the Middle and South Tetons on the +same day, on the South Teton being accompanied by Eleanor Davis. In 1928 +Mount Wister was climbed by Phil Smith and Oliver Zierlein; in 1929 +Teewinot and Mount St. John by Fryxell and Smith; in 1930 Nez Perce by +Fryxell and Smith; and Mount Owen by Underhill, Henderson, Fryxell, and +Smith. With the ascent of Mount Owen the conquest of the major peaks, +begun so many years before, was at length completed. + +In the meantime the minor peaks were by no means neglected, the first +ascents being made principally since 1929 by the climbers whose names +have already been mentioned. As in the case of the Grand Teton, a +variety of routes have been worked out on almost all of the major and +minor peaks. Between 1929 and 1931 the important summits of the range +were equipped with standard Government register tubes and register +books, in which climbers may enter records of their ascents. The story +of the conquest of the Tetons is told in a book entitled "The Teton +Peaks and Their Ascents." (See Bibliography.) + +[Illustration: TEEWINOT AND THE GRAND TETON FROM A HIGH MOUNTAIN SLOPE] + + +SUGGESTIONS TO CLIMBERS + +Since 1931 authorized guide service has been available in the park. In +view of the difficulties one encounters on the Teton peaks and the +hazards they present, prospective climbers--especially if +inexperienced--are urged to make use of the guide service. If venturing +out unguided, climbers should under all circumstances consult rangers +or guides for full information relative to routes and equipment. Failure +to heed this caution has, in the past, led to accidents and even +fatalities. Climbing parties _are required, under all circumstances_, to +report at either park headquarters or Jenny Lake Ranger Station before +and after each expedition, whether guided or unguided. _Climbing alone, +without a companion, is absolutely prohibited._ + +The climbing season varies with the amount of snow in the range and the +character of the weather, but ordinarily it extends from the middle of +June to the end of September, being at its best during July, August, and +early September. In most cases it is advisable to allow 2 days for an +ascent of the Grand Teton, Mount Owen, or Mount Moran, and one day for +the other major peaks. Jenny Lake Campground is the logical outfitting +point for most expeditions; it is close to the peaks and the sources of +supply as well. For most ascents the usual alpine equipment--ice axes, +rope, and hobbed boots or climbing shoes--is essential. In the case of +guided parties arrangements for renting equipment may be made with the +guides. + + + + +WILDLIFE + + +For a great many years Jackson Hole has been famed for its big game, and +to those who wish to see wild animals the expenditure of a little time +in favorable localities usually will reveal them. + +The visitor should not be disappointed if he does not see animals from +his automobile as he drives through the park. In most cases the roads +have been built so as to avoid going through localities inhabited by +wildlife for fear of frightening it and driving it away. + +Within the actual confines of the park, Shiras' moose is the most common +big game animal, and it is frequently seen in the smaller ponds and +marshy meadows. Though the moose is the largest member of the deer +family, it is not as wary as the deer and is comparatively easy to see. + +Mule deer are increasing in the park, as well as in the rest of Jackson +Hole. Though quite shy, they are often seen along the many miles of +trail which are accessible to both rider and hiker. + +The elk, or wapati, have been the most important of the big game animals +in Jackson Hole, at least since the occupancy of white men; and they +have done much to make the valley known to the world. Their history +constitutes one of the most interesting chapters in the story of the +valley. Not many years ago as the winter range of the elk was more and +more taken up by the cattleman and rancher, depriving the elk of the +areas where they might find winter forage not too deeply covered by +winter snow, it became apparent that something must be done to save +these magnificent animals. Toward this end a Government ranch was +established near the town of Jackson, where the elk could be fed during +the winter months. The preservation of the Jackson Hole elk herd is now +assured. + +In the spring elk leave the low country and the Government feed grounds +and move toward the high country in Yellowstone Park and south of it, on +Big Game Ridge, the Thorofare Plateau, and in the mountains east of +Jackson Hole. A small herd summers in the north end of the Teton Range. +With snowfall in the high country, the elk again move down until by +November or December they are back on the feed grounds. + +A small herd of bighorns, or Rocky Mountain sheep, ranges in the Teton +Mountains. Large numbers of bighorns are found, however, in the +mountains east and south of Jackson Hole. + +In the park there are many smaller mammals, among them the marmot, or +"rockchuck", whose shrill whistling makes his presence known at all +altitudes from the valley floor to the peak summits. Marmots make +interesting pets, and tame ones are not uncommon. Like bears, marmots +hibernate through the winter. + +Conies (pikas) are common throughout the rock slides, where these little +animals find numerous refuges. They are guinea-piglike creatures, +usually grayish in color and 7 or 8 inches long. In the rock slides one +may find the little hay piles which they make of the plants growing +nearby. Though very little is known concerning the winter habits of +these alpine animals, it is probable that they do not hibernate but +during the winter live on their stored hay and what additional food is +to be found under the snow. + +Bears are found only in the mountains and canyons of the park. _They do +not invade the campgrounds._ + +[Illustration: BULL ELK + +_Photo by Crandall._] + +That most interesting of smaller mammals, the beaver, is common, and it +is not difficult to find the houses and dams which they have built. In +the campgrounds are pine squirrels, chipmunks, ground squirrels, and +mice. Mink, marten, otter, weasels, coyotes, badgers, fox, and lynx also +are found in the park. + +The Grand Teton National Park offers much to the bird student. Though +the region is old in history, it is new in possibilities of avian +observation, and the seeker finds types from those which inhabit the +arid sagebrush plains to those which spend their lives in the frigid +atmosphere far above timber line. + +In number, there are more than 100 species, a variety which will keep +any ornithologist busy for as long as his stay permits. A list of 93 +species was made during June and July 1933, and at least 3 more species +were added in 1934. Many of these are easily studied within a few +hundred yards of the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. + + + + +TREES AND PLANTS + + +In several respects the flora of the Tetons is unique. The high +mountains have constituted a barrier to plant migration which many forms +could not cross; hence the range limit of a number of plants is found +here. Representatives from north, south, east, and west are found in +this general region, this being the limit, in many instances, of their +distribution. There are many plants typical of the central Rockies, and +a few known only to this range. Five life zones are recognized within +the park, all occurring in a distance of less than 15 miles. Plants +migrating from other regions have grown equally well in each zone. + +The flowering period begins in the park as soon as the ridges and flats +are free of snow in May, and it continues until about August 15 in the +Arctic-Alpine Zone. Hence, plants of at least one zone and usually of +several may be seen blooming at any time in the spring or summer. + +The evergreen trees form an appropriate frame for the majestic Teton +peaks and are reflected in the beautiful lakes which they encircle. + +Lodgepole pine is the most common tree, covering the floor of the valley +and extending up the mountains to about 8,000 feet. The pines may be +easily distinguished from the other evergreens by the long slender +needles occurring in bundles. Lodgepole has two needles in each bundle. +Trees of this species were extensively used by the Indians for lodge +poles. + +Whitebark pine is the tree of timber line; the occasional specimens +found at a lower elevation are usually dwarfed. Needles occur five in +each bundle; cones 2 to 3 inches long and almost ovate; the tree is +much-branched and of medium size. + +[Illustration: THE SNOW-CAPPED TETONS LOOK DOWN ON BEAUTIFUL WILD-FLOWER +FIELDS + +_Copyright, Crandall._] + +Douglas tree has been called "Douglas spruce", "Douglas fir", and "red +fir"; however, it is neither a spruce nor a fir but is worthy of +separate distinction. One needle; cones 2 to 4 inches long; a +three-lobed bract projects from beneath each scale of the cone, a very +distinctive character; common at middle elevations. + +Alpine fir grows from the base of the mountains to timber line; at high +altitudes it is dwarfed and sprawling. One needle, flat; cones 2 to 3 +inches long, scales paper-like; tree usually pyramidal and beautifully +symmetrical. + +Engelmann spruce is the largest tree in the park, and is usually found +growing in moist places and near the lakes and streams. One needle, +square in cross section, stiff and sharp; cones 2 to 3 inches long, +scales papery. + +Blue spruce is not common and is found only in the Snake River bottoms. +The form found here is not typical, lacking the blue cast. One needle, +square in cross section, stiff and sharp; cones 3 to 5 inches long, +scales papery. + +Creeping juniper is not common. It is a prostrate form, lacking definite +trunk. Leaves awllike, one-half inch long or less, stiff and sharp, +spreading from the twigs; fruit, berrylike. + +Aspen is the most common deciduous tree of the valley, growing on the +slopes up to about 8,000 feet. The leaves are on very slender stalks and +the slightest breeze puts them into motion, hence the popular names +"Quaking asp" and "Quaking aspen." Leaves rounded, 1 to 3 inches broad, +with a slender stalk of about the same length; bark smooth and whitish. + +Balsam poplar is found along some of the stream banks and is the largest +deciduous tree of the park. Leaves about 3 inches long and 2 inches +broad, longer than the stalk; bark smooth on the young trees, becoming +rough as the trees get older. The small seed pods contain many seeds, to +each of which is attached a tuft of white hair or "cotton"; hence one of +the common names, "Cottonwood." + + + + +NATURALIST SERVICE + + +At Jenny Lake is located the park museum, which also serves as the +ranger station. In it are housed exhibits pertaining to the history, +geology, fauna, and flora of the Teton-Jackson Hole country. The +collection devoted to mountaineering is in many respects unique. +Adjacent to the museum is an open-air amphitheater where campfire talks +on geology, wildlife, and other subjects related to the park are given +every evening at dusk by a ranger-naturalist. A nature walk, auto +caravan, or all-day hike is conducted each day by a member of the +ranger-naturalist staff. + +[Illustration: THE TETON RANGE MIRRORED IN JACKSON LAKE + +_Copyright, Crandall._] + +An information desk is maintained at the museum, and rangers are there +at all hours of the day to answer inquiries. Information service is also +maintained at park headquarters. + + + + +FISHING + + +Grand Teton Park offers splendid opportunities for fishing. Fish may be +taken with the artificial fly during most of the summer, but the lake or +mackinaw trout which are present in Jackson and Jenny Lakes must be +lured with bait and caught with heavy tackle by means of trolling. Other +species of trout in park waters are the cutthroat (also known as native, +red-throat, and blackspotted) and the brook or speckled trout. The park +waters are being stocked through the cooperation of the United States +Bureau of Fisheries. A Wyoming fishing license, costing $1.50 for State +residents and $3 for nonresidents, is required. For $1.50, however, +nonresidents may secure a 5-day fishing permit. + + + + +SWIMMING + + +Jenny and Leigh Lakes offer opportunities for those who enjoy lake +bathing. A small beach of clean white sand at the end of the Leigh Lake +Road is especially frequented by bathers. + + + + +HUNTING + + +Jackson Hole has long been a noted hunting country, and under Wyoming +laws elk, deer, sheep, moose, and bear may be hunted in the mountains +east and south of Jackson Hole. Parties interested in hunting should +consult the local game warden or the State Fish and Game Department at +Cheyenne, Wyo., for information as to licenses and seasons. + +No hunting is permitted in the Grand Teton National Park, which, of +course, will always be a complete sanctuary for wildlife. + + + + +DUDE RANCHES + + +The trail of the summer vacationist has deviated during the last decade +from the old familiar courses to embrace vast areas in Wyoming and +Montana. A veritable invasion of eastern tourists, known in the parlance +of men of the range as "dudes", has followed the opening up by modern +transportation of this beautiful country. + +Located in the mountainous regions of these two far western States, on +the last frontier, are the dude ranches, in the mouths of canyons, among +foothills, or in clearings in the forest. These ranches are not +pretentious places, but are rustic and unique. Their popularity began in +1904, when Howard, Willis, and Alden Eaton established the now famous +Eaton Brothers' "Dude Ranch" at Wolf, Wyo. + +Many of these ranches are situated in territory within easy access to +the Grand Teton Park. A complete list may be obtained by addressing the +Dude Ranchers' Association, Billings, Mont. + + + + +ADMINISTRATION + + +The representative of the National Park Service in immediate charge of +the park is Thomas E. Whitcraft, superintendent, with office at park +headquarters; address, Moose, Wyo. + + + + +HOW TO REACH THE PARK + + +BY AUTOMOBILE + +The Grand Teton National Park is reached by automobile from the north, +south, east, and west. Each of these approaches is highly scenic in +character affording splendid distant views of the Teton Range and +Jackson Hole. United States Highway No. 287 connects Jackson Hole with +Yellowstone Park and is the north approach to the Teton Park. One mile +north of Moran the traveler reaches United States Highway No. 187 which +traverses Jackson Hole and makes the park accessible. From the east +United States Highway No. 287, known as the Atlantic-Yellowstone-Pacific +Highway, enters Jackson Hole through Togwotee Pass, altitude 9,658 feet, +and the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River, joining the road from +Yellowstone Park, 1 mile north of Moran. The south road enters Jackson +Hole via Hoback Canyon. This is an improved highway (US 187) leaving +Rock Springs, Wyo., on the Lincoln Highway. United States Highway No. 89 +leading to Kemmerer, Wyo., connects with United States Highway No. 187 +at Daniel, Wyo. The western approach road from Idaho, via Teton Pass, to +Wilson and Jackson crosses the Teton Range at an altitude of 8,431 feet. +This road connects with the West Yellowstone-Salt Lake City Highway (U S +191) at Sugar City, Idaho, or by traveling via Pine Creek Pass and Swan +Valley, at Idaho Falls. + + +BY RAILROAD + +At the present time parties may reach the Grand Teton National Park by +using rail lines to several gateways. The Union Pacific System has its +nearest terminal at Victor, Idaho. It operates daily trains to and from +Victor in the tourist season, and there is bus service from the rail +terminus to Jackson, Grand Teton National Park, and Moran. Union Pacific +passengers upon leaving the train at Rock Springs, Wyo., may make +connections with the mail stage which leaves daily except Sunday to the +Teton region, by way of Hoback Canyon. + +For many years the Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. has operated +daily bus service between Old Faithful and Moran. It makes connections +at Old Faithful, which enable passengers coming to Yellowstone Park via +the Union Pacific (West Yellowstone Gateway), Northern Pacific (Gardiner +Gateway), Chicago, Burlington & Quincy (Cody Gateway), and Chicago, +Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific (Gallatin Gateway), to reach the Grand +Teton National Park. + + +BY AIRPLANE + +United Air Lines in its transcontinental route from New York to San +Francisco has a stop at Rock Springs, Wyo., which makes available for +persons of limited time an opportunity to visit the park. + +A mail stage leaves Rock Springs daily, except Sunday, for Grand Teton +National Park via the Hoback Canyon. + +National Park Airways, connecting with United Air Lines at Salt Lake +City, operates daily during the summer season via Idaho Falls and West +Yellowstone to Butte and Great Falls, Mont. + + + + +POINTS OF INTEREST ALONG THE WAY + + +The Grand Teton National Park is located in the interior of a vast +mountain region, and its avenues of approach are, of necessity, through +canyons and passes. These approaches are themselves of great interest +and beauty, and afford magnificent distant views of the Teton Range. The +country traversed is rich in associations of the Old West and contains +numerous historic shrines which deserve the attention of the passing +traveler. + +The north approach, from Yellowstone Park by United States Highway No. +287, passes over the Continental Divide just a few miles south of West +Thumb, and in leaving the Yellowstone Plateau follows the course of +Lewis River. In the dense forests along this wilderness stream there are +opportunities to see big game, such as elk, deer, moose, and bears. +Descending into Jackson Hole, the highway skirts the east shore of +Jackson Lake, and the view of the distant Tetons, rising from the far +shore of the lake, is one the traveler will not soon forget. At this +distance they glisten in delicate blue and white, so sharp they seem +actually to bristle. + +The west approach, from Salt Lake City and points farther west, leaves +United States Highways Nos. 91 and 191 at Idaho Falls or Sugar City, +Idaho, traverses historic Teton Basin, the "Pierres Hole" of the early +trappers, and passes over Teton Pass, elevation 8,429 feet, to the town +of Jackson, which lies in the south end of Jackson Hole about 15 miles +south of Teton Park headquarters. This approach is the only one from +which the three Tetons, noted landmarks of a century ago, stand out +prominently, and the view of this trio is highly impressive. No less +spectacular is the panorama of Jackson Hole revealed as one reaches the +summit of Teton Pass. Undoubtedly the Teton Pass view is the finest to +be had of this basin from any point on the highways. + +The south approach, from Evanston, Kemmerer, Rock Springs, and other +towns in southern Wyoming, follows United States Highway No. 187 or US +89, and avoids all high mountain passes, entering Jackson Hole by way of +the Hoback Canyon. This road does not open up glimpses of the Tetons +until one is well into Jackson Hole, but it affords excellent views of +the snow-clad Wind River Range. Strung along its course is a series of +interesting monuments marking such historic spots as the site of Fort +Bonneville, founded in 1832; the location of the fur trappers' +rendezvous of 1824; the grave of John Hoback, guide to the early +expedition known as "the Astorians"; and similar interesting places. At +a point called "Names Hill", between Kemmerer and Tulsa, Wyo., can be +seen names and dates as old as the 1820's carved in sandstone by the +early trappers and travelers in this region. + +The east approach, from the Black Hills, Casper, and points farther +east, crosses the Wind River Range into Jackson Hole over the +Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass, on United States Highway No. 287. +If so desired, in driving from Casper to Lander one can choose the +modern road which retraces part of the Oregon Trail, past such famous +landmarks on the old trail as Independence Rock, Devils Gate, Muddy Gap, +Whiskey Gap, and Split Rock. From Lander or Riverton a visit to the +Shoshone Indian Reservation can be made with little increase of mileage. +The approach to Togwotee Pass from either side is surprisingly fine, and +the view of the Tetons from points just west of this pass is one of the +finest obtainable. For boldness and jaggedness of skyline the Tetons +thus seen from a distance of 40 miles have no rival anywhere. + + + + +ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES + + +There are no hotels or lodges within the park, but these accommodations +are available nearby at Jackson and Moran at reasonable rates. Dude +ranches and cabin camps near the park also offer suitable accommodations +at reasonable rates. The National Park Service has no control over these +enterprises. + + +PUBLIC CAMPGROUNDS + +There is a modern, well-developed campground at Jenny Lake. This camp is +supplied with running water, sanitary facilities, and cooking grates. +There are also many camping sites away from the main campground, +suitable for overnight stops for pack outfits. Supplies, including +fishing tackle, may be procured at Jenny Lake, Moose, Jackson, or Moran. + + +SADDLE HORSES + +Grand Teton is primarily a saddle horse park. Access to the interior of +the park is possible only by trails, as no highways have been built or +are planned. + +At the south end of Jenny Lake, near the ranger station, there is +maintained an excellent string of saddle and pack horses with good +equipment for short or long trips. One may rent saddle horses without +guides, but only to ride over well-defined trails in designated areas. +Discretion as to the ability of patrons to ride, or to go unguided, +rests with the operator. Saddle-horse trips to special points of +interest, such as Teton Glacier, are made daily at reasonable rates. +Pack trips to any part of the park or surrounding country, with guide, +cook, and complete camping equipment may be taken if arrangements are +made in advance. + + +BOATING + +At the south end of Jenny Lake also, D. Kenneth Reimers maintains +motorboat and rowboat service. Four or more persons may make a trip +around Jenny Lake for 50 cents each. Rowboats may be rented for 50 cents +an hour or $2 a day. Motorboats, with a driver, are $2 an hour, $1.50 +each additional hour, and $10 a day; without a driver, $1.50 an hour, +and $6 a day. + + +GUIDE SERVICE + +The authorized official guide for mountain-climbing trips in Grand Teton +National Park is Paul Petzoldt. He maintains summer headquarters at +Jenny Lake, and charges $8 a day, a person, for his services. Climbers +may provide their own food or have their meals at $2 each at a timber +line camp. Blankets and eiderdown sleeping bags may be rented for $2. + + +PHOTOGRAPHS + +The Crandall Studios maintain up-to-date picture shops at Jenny Lake and +Moran. Photographs of the Teton Mountains and the surrounding country in +all sizes and styles, as well as hand-painted enlargements, paintings, +moving pictures, and souvenir postcards, are on sale. Laboratories in +the park are maintained for developing, printing, and enlarging +photographs. + +This booklet is issued once a year, and the rates mentioned herein may +have changed slightly since issuance, but the latest rates approved by +the Secretary of the Interior are on file with the superintendent and +the park operators. + + +MOTOR TRANSPORTATION + +Regular bus service is maintained between Yellowstone and Moran Wyo.; +also from Moran to Victor, Idaho, via Grand Teton National Park. Inquire +at any concentration point about rates and schedules. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + + +GENERAL + +ALBRIGHT, HORACE M., and TAYLOR, FRANK J. Oh, Ranger! A book about the +national parks. Illustrated. + +BURT, STRUTHERS. Diary of a Dude Wrangler. Charles Scribner's Sons, +1924. 331 pages. + +FRYXELL, FRITIOF. The Grand Tetons, Our National Park of Matterhorns. +American Forests and Forest Life, National Parks Number (August 1929). +Pages 453-456. + +WISTER, OWEN. The Virginian. Macmillan Co., 1902. 506 pages. (The +setting for portions of this famous novel is taken from the +Teton-Jackson Hole region.) + +YARD, ROBERT STERLING. The Book of our National Parks. Charles +Scribner's Sons, 1928. Illustrated. The Tetons on pages 227-228. + + +HISTORICAL + +ALTER, J. CECIL. James Bridger. Shepard Book Co., Salt Lake City, 1925. + +CHITTENDEN, BRIG. GEN. HIRAM MARTIN. The Yellowstone National Park. +Stanford University Press, 1933 (fourth edition). Illustrated. 286 +pages. The standard history of the Yellowstone region. History of the +American Fur Trade of the Far West. 3 volumes. New York, 1902. + +COUTANT, C. G. History of Wyoming. Volume 1. Laramie, Wyo., 1899. 712 +pages. (This volume, the only one issued, contains scattered references +to the region.) + +DALE, HARRISON C. The Ashley-Smith Explorations. Arthur H. Clark Co., +Cleveland, 1918. + +FRYXELL, FRITIOF. The Story of Deadman's Bar. Annals of Wyoming, volume +5 (June 1929). Pages 128-148. + +IRVING, WASHINGTON: + + Astoria, or Anecdotes of an Enterprise Beyond the Rocky Mountains. + New York, 1836. (This classic work contains the earliest known use + of the name "Tetons.") + + Adventures of Captain Bonneville. New York, 1837. (An important + early work containing many references to the region.) + +JACKSON, WILLIAM H.: + + The Pioneer Photographer. World Book Co., 1929. The Tetons on pages + 123-141. 314 pages. (An account of the Hayden surveys in the Teton + Region.) + + Address Regarding the First Photographing of the Tetons. Prepared + for the Dedication of the Grand Teton National Park. Annals of + Wyoming, volume 6 (July-October, 1929). Pages 189-191. + +PARKER, REV. SAMUEL. Journal of an Exploring Tour Beyond the Rocky +Mountains Andrus, Woodruff, and Gauntlett, Ithaca, New York (4 +editions), 1844. + +STONE, ELIZABETH A. Uinta County, its Place in History. + +VINTON, STALLO. John Colter, Discoverer of Yellowstone Park. Edward +Eberstadt, publisher, 1926. 114 pages. (Ch. 11, pp. 43-63, is a +discussion of the probable crossing of the Teton Range by John Colter in +1807.) + + +SCIENTIFIC + +BRADLEY, FRANK H. (Geological.) Report of Snake River Division. In Sixth +Annual Report of the U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories (Hayden +Surveys of 1872). Washington, 1873. Pages 217-223, 261-271. + +BRANDEGEE, T. C. Teton Forest Reserve. In Nineteenth Annual Report, U. +S. Geological Survey (for 1898), part V, Washington, 1899. Pages +191-212. + +CAREY, MERRITT. Life Zone Investigations in Wyoming. North American +Fauna No. 42, Biological Survey, U. S. Department of Agriculture. +Washington, 1917. 95 pages. + +FRYXELL, FRITIOF: + + Glacial Features of Jackson Hole, Wyo. Published by Augustana + College, Rock Island, Ill., 1930. Illustrated. 128 pages. + + Glacial Studies in the Tetons. Journal of Geology, Vol. XLI (1930), + pp. 642-646 and 737-747; Vol. XLIII (1935). + +IDDINGS, J. P., and WEED, W. H. Descriptive Geology of the Northern End +of the Teton Range. Chapter IV (pp. 149-164) of Monograph XXXII, part +II, Geology of the Yellowstone National Park. U. S. Geological Survey, +Washington, 1899. 893 pages. + +PREBLE, EDWARD A. Report on Condition of Elk in Jackson Hole, Wyo., in +1911. Bulletin No. 40, Biological Survey, U. S. Department of +Agriculture. Washington, 1911. 23 pages. + +SHELDON, CHARLES. The Conservation of the Elk of Jackson Hole, Wyo. Elk +Commission Report. Washington, 1927. 36 pages. + +ST. JOHN, ORESTES. Report of the Geological Field Work of the Teton +Division. In Eleventh Annual Report of the U. S. Geological Survey of +the Territories (Hayden Surveys of 1877). Washington, 1879. Pages +321-508. + + +MOUNTAINEERING + +The mountaineering literature on the Teton Range is voluminous and only +a few references are cited here. For other articles see the files of +Trail and Timberline, Bulletin of the Sierra Club, Appalachia, American +Alpine Journal, Canadian Alpine Journal, etc. + +ELLINGWOOD, A. R. Our American Matterhorn. Outdoor Life, volume 54 +(1924). Pages 181-186. + +FRYXELL, FRITIOF: + + The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents. Crandall Studios, Jenny Lake, + Wyo., 1932. 106 pages. Illustrated (including map). (A history of + mountaineering in the Tetons up to 1931, inclusive. Summarizes the + known routes up each peak. Bibliography.) + + The Ascent of Mount Owen. American Alpine Journal, 1931, pages + 320-326. + +HENDERSON, KENNETH A. The Grand Teton. American Alpine Journal, 1930. +Pages 138-139. + +OWEN, WILLIAM O. Ascent of the Grand Teton. Outing, volume 38 (1901). +Pages 302-307. + +UNDERHILL, ROBERT L. M.: + + The Grand Teton by the East Ridge. The Alpine Journal (London), + November 1930. Pages 267-277. + + Two New Routes Up the Grand Teton. The Canadian Alpine Journal, + 1931. Pages 72-86. + + + + +GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS + + +=_Motorist Guide Map of Yellowstone National Park._= Shows roads, +campgrounds, lodges, and hotels, and gives condensed information about +Yellowstone National Park. Distributed in the park only. Free. + +=_Recreational Map._= Shows Federal and State recreational areas +throughout the United States and gives brief descriptions of principal +ones. Address Director, National Park Service, Washington, D. C. Free. + +=_Glimpses of Our National Parks._= Brief descriptions of the national +parks. Address Director, National Park Service, Washington, D. C. Free. + +=_National Parks Portfolio._= By Robert Sterling Yard. Cloth bound and +illustrated with more than 300 pictures of places of outstanding scenic +interest. Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. $1.50. + +=_Fauna of the National Parks, Series No. 1._= By G. M. Wright, J. S. +Dixon, and B. H. Thompson. A survey of wildlife with recommendations for +adequate protection. 157 pages, illustrated. Superintendent of +Documents, Washington, D. C. Price, 20 cents. + +=_Fauna of the National Parks, Series No. 2._= By G. M. Wright and B. H. +Thompson. Wildlife management in the national parks. 142 pages, +illustrated. Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. 20 cents. + +Illustrated booklets about the following national parks may be obtained +free of charge by writing to the National Park Service: + +Acadia, Maine. +Carlsbad Caverns, N. Mex. +Crater Lake, Oreg. +General Grant, Calif. +Glacier, Mont. +Grand Canyon, Ariz. +Great Smoky Mts., N. C.-Tenn. +Hawaii, Hawaii. +Hot Springs, Ark. +Lassen Volcanic, Calif. +Mesa Verde, Colo. +Mount McKinley, Alaska. +Mount Rainier, Wash. +National Capital Parks, Washington, D. C. +Platt, Okla. +Rocky Mountain, Colo. +Sequoia, Calif. +Wind Cave, S. Dak. +Yellowstone, Wyo.-Mont.-Idaho. +Yosemite, Calif. +Zion and Bryce Canyon, Utah. + +[Illustration: AREAS ADMINISTERED BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE] + + + * * * * * + + +Transcriber's Notes + +Words surrounded with _underscores_ are originally in italics. + +Words surrounded with =equal signs= are originally in bold. + +Words surrounded with =_both symbols_= are originally in bold italics. + +DO YOU KNOW YOUR NATIONAL PARKS: changed stalacites to stalactites. + (WIND CAVE, S. DAK.--Beautiful cavern.... No stalacites....) + +Page 15: Changed climed to climbed. + (... 30 to 40 parties have climed the peak each summer.) + +Page 25: Changed magnificient to magnificent. + (and afford magnificient distant views of the Teton Range.) + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Grand Teton [Wyoming] National Park, by +United States Dept. of the Interior + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GRAND TETON [WYOMING] *** + +***** This file should be named 36128.txt or 36128.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/1/2/36128/ + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Diane Monico, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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