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Diffstat (limited to '36654-h')
181 files changed, 12338 insertions, 0 deletions
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Shields + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cruisings in the Cascades + A Narrative of Travel, Exploration, Amateur Photography, + Hunting, and Fishing + +Author: George O. Shields + +Release Date: July 7, 2011 [EBook #36654] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CRUISINGS IN THE CASCADES *** + + + + +Produced by Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img id="coverpage" border="0" src="images/frontcover.png" alt="Cover" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">CRUISINGS <span class="smcap">in the</span> +CASCADES <span class="smcap">and other</span> HUNTING ADVENTURES</p> + +<br /> + +<p class="caption">G. O. SHIELDS</p> + +<p class="h5">(COQUINA)</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img border="0" src="images/illo_002.jpg" alt="illo_002" /></div> + +<p class="caption">G. O. Shields</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<h1 id="booktitle"><span class="smcap">Cruisings in the Cascades.</span></h1> + +<p class="h5">A NARRATIVE OF</p> + +<p class="h4">Travel, Exploration, Amateur Photography,<br /> +Hunting, and Fishing,</p> + +<p class="h6">WITH SPECIAL CHAPTERS ON</p> + +<p class="h5">HUNTING THE GRIZZLY BEAR, THE BUFFALO, ELK, ANTELOPE,<br /> +ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT, AND DEER; ALSO ON TROUTING IN<br /> +THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS; ON A MONTANA ROUND-UP;<br /> +LIFE AMONG THE COWBOYS, ETC.</p> + +<p class="h3"><span class="smcap">By G. O. SHIELDS</span>,<br /> +("COQUINA")</p> + +<p class="h5">AUTHOR OF "RUSTLINGS IN THE ROCKIES," "HUNTING IN THE GREAT +WEST," "THE BATTLE OF THE BIG HOLE," ETC.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h4">CHICAGO AND NEW YORK:<br /> +<span class="smcap">Rand, Mcnally & Company, Publishers</span>.<br /> +1889. +</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p class="h5"><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1889, by Rand, Mcnally & Co.</span></p> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p style="font-size:.7em; font-weight:bold">The articles herein on Elk, Bear, and Antelope Hunting are reprinted by the courtesy +of Messrs. Harper & Brothers, in whose Magazine they were first published; and those +on Buffalo Hunting and Trouting are reproduced from "Outing" Magazine, in which +they first appeared.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="inset16"> +<p> +"Come live with me and be my love.<br /> +And we will all the pleasures prove<br /> +That hills and valleys, dales and fields,<br /> +Woods or steepy mountains, yield."</p> + +<p class="right">—<i>Marlowe.</i></p> +</div> + +<p>"Earth has built the great watch-towers of the mountains, +and they lift their heads far up into the sky, and gaze ever upward +and around to see if the Judge of the World comes not."</p> + +<p class="right"> +—<i>Longfellow.</i><br /> +</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[7]</span></p> + +<p class="h2">PREFACE.</p> + +<p>And now, how can I suitably apologize for having +inflicted another book on the reading public? I +would not attempt it but that it is the custom among +authors. And, come to think of it, I guess I won't +attempt it anyway. I will merely say, by way of +excuse, that my former literary efforts, especially +my "Rustlings in the Rockies," have brought me +in sundry dollars, in good and lawful money, which +I have found very useful things to have about the +house. If this volume shall meet with an equally +kind reception at the hands of book buyers, I shall +feel that, after all, I am not to blame for having +written it.</p> + +<p class="right"> +THE AUTHOR.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Chicago, March, 1889.</span></p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[9]</span></p> + +<p class="h2">CONTENTS.</p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER I.</p> + +<p class="out">The Benefits, Mental and Physical, of Mountain Climbing—A +Never-failing Means of Obtaining Sound Sleep and a Good +Appetite—The Work to be in Proportion to the Strength of +the Climber—People Who Would Like to See, but are Too +Lazy to Climb—How the Photograph Camera May Enhance +the Pleasures and Benefits of Mountain Climbing—Valuable +Souvenirs of Each Ascent—How "These Things are Done in +Europe"—An Effective Cure for Egotism. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">17</a></span> +</p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER II.</p> + +<p class="out">The Cascade Mountains Compared with the Rockies—Characteristics +and Landmarks of the Former—The Proper Season for +Cruising in the Cascades—Grand Scenery of the Columbia—Viewing +Mount Tacoma from the City of Tacoma—Men Who +Have Ascended this Mysterious Peak—Indian Legends Concerning +the Mountain—Evil Spirits, Who Dwell in Yawning +Caverns—The View from the Mountain—Crater Lake and +the Glaciers—Nine Water-falls in Sight from One Point. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">25</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER III.</p> + +<p class="out">The City of Seattle—A Booming Western Town—Lumbering +and Salmon Canning—Extensive Hop Ranches—Rich Coal +and Iron Mines—Timber Resources of Puget Sound—Giant +Firs and Cedars—A Hollow Tree for a House—Big Timber +Shipped to England—A Million Feet of Lumber from an Acre +of Land—Novel Method of Logging—No Snow in Theirs—A +World's Supply of Timber for a Thousand Years. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">35</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4"><span class="pagenum">[10]</span>CHAPTER IV.</p> + +<p class="out">Length, Breadth, and Depth of Puget Sound—Natural Resources +of the Surrounding Country—Flora and Fauna of the +Region—Great Variety of Game Birds and Animals—Large +Variety of Game and Food Fishes—A Paradise for Sportsman +or Naturalist—A Sail Through the Sound—Grand +Mountains in Every Direction—The Home of the Elk, Bear, +Deer, and Salmon—Sea Gulls as Fellow Passengers—Photographed +on the Wing—Wild Cattle on Whidby Island—Deception +Pass; its Fierce Current and Wierd Surroundings—Victoria, +B. C.—A Quaint Old, English-looking Town. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">42</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER V.</p> + +<p class="out">Through English Bay—Water Fowls that Seem Never to Have +Been Hunted—Rifle Practice that was Soon +Interrupted—Peculiarities of Burrard Inlet—Vancouver +and Port Moody—A Stage Ride to Westminster—A Stranger +in a Strange Land—Hunting for a Guide—"Douglass Bill" Found +and Employed—An Indian Funeral Delays the Expedition. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">53</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER VI.</p> + +<p class="out">The Voyage up the Frazier—Delicious Peaches Growing in Sight +of Glaciers—The Detective Camera Again to the Front—Good +Views from the Moving Steamer—A Night in an +Indian Hut—The Sleeping Bag a Refuge from Vermin—The +Indian as a Stamping Ground for Insects—He Heeds Not +Their Ravages. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">59</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER VII.</p> + +<p class="out">A Breakfast with the Bachelor—Up Harrison River in a +Canoe—Dead Salmon Everywhere—Their Stench Nauseating—The +Water Poisoned with Carrion—A Good Goose Spoiled with +an Express Bullet—Lively Salmon on the Falls—Strange Instinct +of this Noble Fish—Life Sacrificed in the Effort to +Reach its Spawning Grounds—Ranchmen Fishing with Pitchforks, +and Indians with Sharp Sticks—Salmon Fed to +Hogs, and Used as Fertilizers; the Prey of Bears, Cougars, +Wild Cats, Lynxes, Minks, Martins, Hawks, and Eagles. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">66</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4"><span class="pagenum">[11]</span>CHAPTER VIII.</p> + +<p class="out">The River Above the Rapids—A Lake Within Basaltic Walls—Many +Beautiful Waterfalls—Mount Douglas and its Glaciers—A +Trading Post of the Hudson Bay Fur Company—The +Hot Springs; an Ancient Indian Sanitarium—Anxiously +Waiting for "Douglass Bill"—Novel Method of Photographing +Big Trees. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">75</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER IX.</p> + +<p class="out">An Early Morning Climb—A Thousand Feet Above the Lake—Fresh +Deer Signs in Sight of the Hotel—Three Indians Bring +in Three Deer—"Douglass Bill" Proves as Big a Liar as +Other Indians—Heading off a Flock of Canvas Backs—A +Goodly Bag of these Toothsome Birds—A Siwash Hut—A +Revolting Picture of Dirt, Filth, Nakedness, and Decayed +Fish—Another Guide Employed—Ready on Short Notice—Off +for the Mountain. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">82</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER X.</p> + +<p class="out">Characteristics of the Flathead Indians—Canoeists and Packers +by Birth and Education—A Skillful Canoe Builder—Freighting +Canoes—Fishing Canoes—Traveling Canoes—Two +Cords of Wood for a Cargo, and Four Tons of Merchandise +for Another—Dress of the Coast Indians. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">89</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XI.</p> + +<p class="out">Climbing the Mountain in a Rainstorm-Pean's Dirty Blankets—His +Careful Treatment of His Old Musket—A Novel Charge +for Big Game—The Chatter of the Pine Squirrel—A Shot +Through the Brush—Venison for Supper—A Lame Conversation: +English on the One Side, Chinook on the Other—The +Winchester Express Staggers the Natives—Peculiarities +of the Columbia Black Tail Deer. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">97</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XII.</p> + +<p class="out">The Chinook Jargon; an Odd Conglomeration of Words; the +Court Language of the Northwest; a Specimen Conversation—A +Camp on the Mountain Side—How the Indian Tried +<span class="pagenum">[12]</span> +to Sleep Warm—The Importance of a Good Bed when +Camping—Pean is taken Ill—His Fall Down a Mountain—Unable +to go Further, We Turn Back—Bitter Disappointment +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">102</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XIII.</p> + +<p class="out">The Return to the Village—Two New Guides Employed—Off for +the Mountains Once More—The Tramp up Ski-ik-kul Creek +Through Jungles, Gulches, and Cañons—And Still it +Rains—Ravages of Forest Fires—A Bed of Mountain +Feathers—Description of a Sleeping Bag; an Indispensable +Luxury in Camp Life; an Indian Opinion of It +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">107</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XIV.</p> + +<p class="out">Meditations by a Camp Fire—Suspicions as to the Honesty of +My Guides; at Their Mercy in Case of Stealthy Attack—A +Frightful Fall—Broken Bones and Intense Suffering—A +Painful and Tedious Journey Home—A Painful Surgical +Operation—A Happy Denouement +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">113</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XV.</p> + +<p class="out">The Beauties of Ski-ik-kul Creek; a Raging Mountain Torrent; +Rapids and Waterfalls Everywhere; Picturesque +Tributaries—Above the Tree Tops—The Pleasure of Quenching +Thirst—A Novel Spear—A Fifteen-Pound Salmon for Supper—The +Indians' Midnight Lunch—A Grand Camp Fire—At +Peace with All Men +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">118</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XVI.</p> + +<p class="out">Seymour Advises a Late Start for Goat Hunting; but His Council +is Disregarded—We Start at Sunrise—A Queer Craft—Navigating +Ski-ik-kul Lake—A "Straight-up" Shot at a Goat—Both +Horns Broken Off in the Fall—More Rain and Less +Fun—A Doe and Kid—Successful Trout Fishing—Peculiarities +of the Skowlitz Tongue; Grunts, Groans and Whistles—John +has Traveled—Seymour's Pretended Ignorance of +English +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">125</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XVII.</p> + +<p class="out"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> +En Route to the Village Again—A Water-Soaked Country—"Oh, +What a Fall was There, My Countrymen!"—Walking on Slippery +Logs—More Rain—Wet Indians—"Semo He Spile de +Grouse"—A Frugal Breakfast—High Living at Home—A +Bear He did a Fishing Go; but He was Caught Instead of +the Fish, and His Skin is Bartered to the Unwashed +Siwashes. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">132</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XVIII.</p> + +<p class="out">John and His Family "At Home"—An Interesting Picture of +Domestic Economy—Rifle Practice on Gulls and Grebes—Puzzled +Natives—"Phwat Kind of Burds is Them?"—A day +on the Columbia—The Pallisades from a Steamer—Photographing +Bad Lands from a Moving Train. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">141</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XIX.</p> + +<p class="out">Deer Hunting at Spokane Falls—Ruin Wrought by an Overloaded +Shotgun: A Tattered Vest and a Wrecked Watch—Billy's +Bear Story—The Poorest Hunter Makes the Biggest +Score—A Claw in Evidence—A Disgusted Party. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">146</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XX.</p> + +<p class="out">A Fusilade on the Mule Deer—Two Does as the Result—A Good +Shot Spoiled—View from the Top of Blue Grouse Mountain—A +Grand Panorama; Lakes, Mountains, Prairies and +Forests—Johnston's Story—Rounding Up Wild Hogs—A Trick on +the Dutchman—A Bucking Mule and a Balky Cayuse—Falls +of the Spokane River. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">153</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXI.</p> + +<p class="out">Hunting the Grizzly Bear—Habitat and Characteristics—A Camp +Kettle as a Weapon of Defense—To the Rescue with a +Winchester—Best Localities for Hunting the Grizzly—Baiting +and Still-Hunting—A Surprise Party in the Trail—Two +Bulls-eyes and a Miss—Fresh Meat and Revelry in Camp. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">164</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4"><span class="pagenum">[14]</span> +CHAPTER XXII.</p> + +<p class="out">Elk Hunting in the Rocky Mountains—Characteristics of the +Elk—His Mode of Travel—A Stampede in a Thicket—The +Whistle of the Elk, the Hunter's Sweetest Music—Measurements +of a Pair of Antlers—Saved by Following an Elk +Trail—The Work of Exterminators—The Elk Doomed. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">181</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXIII.</p> + +<p class="out">Antelope Hunting in Montana—A Red Letter Day on Flat +Willow—Initiating a Pilgrim—Sample Shots—Flagging and +Fanning—Catching Wounded Antelopes on Horseback—Four +Mule-Loads of Meat. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">194</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXIV.</p> + +<p class="out">Buffalo Hunting on the Texas Plains—A "Bull Train" Loaded +with Skins—A Sensation in Fort Worth—En Route to the +Range—Red River Frank's Mission—A Stand on the Herd—Deluged +with Buffalo Blood—A Wild Run by Indians—Tossed +into the Air and Trampled into the Earth. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">213</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXV.</p> + +<p class="out">Hunting the Rocky Mountain Goat—Technical Description of +the Animal—Its Limited Range—Dangers Incurred in Hunting +It—An Army Officer's Experience—A Perilous Shot—A +Long and Dangerous Pursuit—Successful at Last—Carrying +the Trophies to Camp—Wading up Lost Horse Creek—Numerous +Baths in Icy Water—An Indian's Fatal Fall—Horses +Stampeded by a Bear—Seven Days on Foot and +Alone—Home at Last. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">236</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXVI.</p> + +<p class="out">Trouting in the Mountains—Gameness of the Mountain Trout—A +Red Letter Day on the Bitter Root—Frontier Tackle and +Orthodox Bait—How a Private Soldier Gets to the Front as +an Angler—A Coot Interrupts the Sport, and a Rock Interrupts +the Coot—Colonel Gibson takes a Nine-Pounder—A +Native Fly Fisherman—Grand Sport on Big Spring Creek—How +Captain Hathaway does the Honors—Where Grand +Sport may be Found. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">257</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4"><span class="pagenum">[15]</span>CHAPTER XXVII.</p> + +<p class="out">Deer Hunting in Northern Wisconsin—On the Range at +Daylight—The Woods Full of Game—Missing a Standing +"Broadside" at Thirty Yards—Several Easy Shots in Rapid +Succession; the only Fruits Shame and Chagrin—Nervousness +and Excitement Finally Give Way to Coolness and +Deliberation—A Big Buck at Long Range—A Steady Aim +and a Ruptured Throat—A Blind Run Through Brush and +Fallen Trees—Down at Last—A Noble Specimen—His +Head as a Trophy +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">280</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXVIII.</p> + +<p class="out">Among the Pines—A Picture of Autumnal Loveliness—Cordial +Welcome to a Logging Camp—A Successful Shot—The +Music of the Dinner Horn—A Throat Cut and a Leg Broken—A +Stump for a Watch-Tower—The Raven Homeward +Bound—A Suspicious Buck—A Mysterious Presence—Dead +Beside His Mate—Three Shots and Three Deer +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">288</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXIX.</p> + +<p class="out">A Typical Woodsman—Model Home in the Great Pine Forest—A +Lifetime in the Wilderness—A Deer in a Natural +Trap—Disappointment and Despondency—"What, You Killed a +Buck!"—Sunrise in the Woods—An Unexpected Shot—A +Free Circus and a Small Audience—A Buck as a Bucker—More +Venison +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">296</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXX.</p> + +<p class="out">Cowboy Life—The Boys that Become Good Range Riders—Peculiar +Tastes and Talents Required for the Ranch—Wages +Paid to Cowboys—Abuse and Misrepresentation to which +They are Subjected—The "Fresh Kid," and the Long-Haired +"Greaser"—The Stranger Always Welcome at the Ranch—A +Dude Insulted—A Plaid Ulster, a Green Umbrella, and a +Cranky Disposition—Making a Train Crew Dance—An +Uncomplimentary Concert—No Sneak Thieves on the Plains—Leather +Breeches, Big Spurs, and a Six-Shooter in a Sleeping +<span class="pagenum">[16]</span> +Car—Fear Gives Way to Admiration—The Slang of the Range—The +"Bucker," and the "Buster"—The Good Cow-Horse—Roping +for Prizes—Snaking a Bear with a Lariat—A Good School for +Boys—Communion with Nature Makes Honest Men. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">304</a></span></p> + +<p class="h4">CHAPTER XXXI.</p> + +<p class="out">A Montana Roundup—Ranges and Ranches on Powder River; +Once the Home of the Buffalo, the Elk, the Antelope; now +the Home of the Texas Steer and the Cowboy—The Great +Plains in Spring Attire—A Gathering of Rustlers—"Chuck +Outfits" to the Front—Early Risers—Taming an "Alecky" +Steer—A Red-Hot Device—Branding and Slitting—The Run +on the Mess Wagon—"Cutting Out" and "Throwing +Over"—A Cruel Process. +<span class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">327</a></span></p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h1">CRUISINGS IN THE CASCADES.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[17]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="inset26"> +<p>"Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery."</p> +<p class="right">—<span class="smcap">Ruskin.</span></p> +</div> + +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_017-3_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">OR</span> +anyone who has the courage, the +hardihood, and the physical strength +to endure the exercise, there is no form +of recreation or amusement known to +mankind that can yield such grand +results as mountain climbing. I mean +from a mental as well as from a physical +standpoint; and, in fact, it is the +mind that receives the greater benefit. The +exertion of the muscular forces in climbing a +high mountain is necessarily severe; in fact, it is +more than most persons unused to it can readily +endure; and were it not for the inspiration which +the mind derives from the experience when the +ascent is made it would be better that the subject +should essay some milder form of exercise. But +if one's strength be sufficient to endure the labor +of ascending a grand mountain peak, that extends +to or above timber line, to the regions of perpetual +snow and ice, or even to a height that gives a general +view of the surrounding country, the compensation +<span class="pagenum">[19]</span><span class="pagenum">[18]</span> +must be ample if one have an eye for the beauties +of nature, or any appreciation of the grandeur of the +Creator's greatest works.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_018.jpg" alt="018" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">MOUNT HOOD.</p> + +<p>Vain, self-loving man is wont to consider himself +the noblest work of God, but let him go to the top of +one of these lofty mountains, surrounded by other +towering peaks, and if he be a sane man he will soon +be convinced that his place in the scale of creation is +far from the top. Let him stand, for instance, on the +summit of Mount Hood, Mount Tacoma, or Mount Baker, +thousands of feet above all surrounding peaks, +hills, and valleys, where he may gaze into space hundreds +of miles in every direction, with naught to obstruct +his view, face to face with his Creator, and +if he have aught of the love of nature in his soul, or of +appreciation of the sublime in his mental composition, +he will be moved to exclaim with the Apostle, +"What is man that Thou art mindful of him, or the +son of man that Thou visitest him?" He will feel +his littleness, his insignificance, his utter lack of importance, +more forcibly perhaps than ever before. It +seems almost incredible that there should be men in +the world who could care so little for the grandest, +the sublimest sights their native land affords, as to +be unwilling to perform the labor necessary to see +them to the best possible advantage; and yet it is so, +for I have frequently heard them say:</p> + +<p>"I should like very much to see these grand +sights you describe, but I never could afford to climb +those high mountains for that pleasure; it is too +hard work for me."</p> + +<p>And, after all, the benefits to be derived from +mountain climbing are not wholly of an intellectual +<span class="pagenum">[21]</span> +character; the physical system may be benefited by +it as well. It is a kind of exercise that in turn +brings into use almost every muscle in the body, +those of the legs being of course taxed most severely, +but those of the back do their full share of +the work, while the arms are called into action almost +constantly, as the climber grasps bushes or rocks by +which to aid himself in the ascent. The lungs expand +and contract like bellows as they inhale and +exhale the rarified atmosphere, and the heart beats +like a trip-hammer as it pumps the invigorated blood +through the system. The liver is shaken loose from +the ribs to which it has perchance grown fast, and +the stomach is aroused to such a state of activity as +it has probably not experienced for years. Let any +man, especially one of sedentary habits, climb a +mountain 5,000 feet high, on a bright, pleasant day, +when</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"Night's candles are burnt out and jocund day<br /> +Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops."</p> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_020.jpg" alt="020" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">MOUNT TACOMA.</p> + +<p>There let him breathe the rare, pure atmosphere, +fresh from the portals of heaven, and my word for +it he will have a better appetite, will eat heartier, +sleep sounder, and awake next morning feeling more +refreshed than since the days of his boyhood.</p> + +<p>Although the labor be severe it can and should be +modulated to the strength and capabilities of the +person undertaking the task. No one should climb +faster than is compatible with his strength, and +halts should be made every five or ten minutes, if +need be, to allow the system ample rest. In this +manner a vast amount of work may be accomplished +<span class="pagenum">[22]</span> +in a day, even by one who has had no previous +experience in climbing.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_022.jpg" alt="022" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">ON THE COLUMBIA.</p> + +<p>The benefits and pleasures of mountain climbing +are much better understood and appreciated in +Europe than in this country. Nearly every city of +England, France, Spain, Germany, and other European +countries has an Alpine, Pyrenese, or Himalayan +club. The members of these clubs spend their +<span class="pagenum">[23]</span> +summer outings in scaling the great peaks of the +mountains after which the societies are named, or +other ranges, and the winter evenings in recounting +to each other their experiences; and many a man, by +his association with the clubs and by indulgence in +this invigorating pastime develops from a delicate +youth into a muscular, sturdy, athletic man in a +few years.</p> + +<p>The possible value of mountain climbing as a recreation +and as a means of gaining knowledge, has been +greatly enhanced, of late years, by the introduction +of the dry-plate system in photography, and +since the small, light, compact cameras have been +constructed, which may be easily and conveniently +carried wherever a man can pack his blankets +and a day's supply of food. With one of these +instruments fine views can be taken of all interesting +objects and bits of scenery on the mountain, and of +the surrounding country. The views are interesting +and instructive to friends and to the public in general, +and as souvenirs are invaluable to the author. +And from the negatives thus secured lantern slides +may be made, and from these, by the aid of the +calcium light, pictures projected on a screen that +can only be excelled in their beauty and attractiveness +by nature herself.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_023.jpg" alt="023" /> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<span class="pagenum">[24]</span> +<img src="images/illo_024.jpg" alt="024" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">GLACIERS ON MOUNT TACOMA.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[25]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_025-3_6.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">ACH</span> +succeeding autumn, for years past, +has found me in some range of mountains, +camping, hunting, fishing, +climbing, and taking views. The +benefits I have derived from these +expeditions, in the way of health, +strength, and vigor, are incalculable, +and the pleasures inexpressible. My last +outing was in the Cascade Range, in Oregon +and Washington Territory, where I spent +a month in these delightful occupations, and it +is with a view of encouraging and promoting a love +for these modes of recreation that this record is +written.</p> + +<div class="inset16"> +<p> +"I live not in myself, but I become<br /> +<span class="in1">Portion of that around me; and to me</span><br /> +High mountains are a feeling, but the hum<br /> +<span class="in1">Of human cities torture."</span> +</p> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_026.jpg" alt="026" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A VIEW IN THE CASCADES.</p> + +<p>The Cascade Range of mountains extends from +Southern Oregon through Washington Territory, +away to the northward in British Columbia. In width, +from east to west, it varies from fifty to one hundred +miles. It is the most densely-timbered range on the +continent, and yet is one of the highest and most rugged. +It may not possess so many ragged, shapeless +crags and dark cañons as the Rocky Range, and yet +everyone who has ever traversed both accords to the +<span class="pagenum">[27]</span> +Cascades the distinction of being the equal, in picturesqueness +and grandeur, of the Rockies, or, in fact, +of any other range in the country. As continental +landmarks, Mounts Pitt, Union, Thielson, Jefferson, +Hood, Adams, St. Helens, Tacoma, Baker, Stuart, +Chiam, Douglass, and others are unsurpassed. Their +hoary crests tower to such majestic heights as to be +visible, in some instances, hundreds of miles, and +their many glaciers feed mighty rivers upon whose +bosoms the commerce of nations is borne. Mount Jefferson +is 9,020 feet high; Mount Adams, 9,570; Mount +St. Helens, 9,750; Mount Baker, 10,800, Mount Hood, +11,025, and Mount Tacoma, 14,444. There are many +other peaks that rise to altitudes of 7,000 to 9,000 +feet, and from these figures one may readily form +something of an idea of the general height and beauty +of the Cascade Range. The foot-hills are generally +high, rolling, and picturesque, and so heavily timbered +that in many places one cannot see a hundred +yards in any direction. Higher up the range, however, +this heavy timber is replaced by smaller trees, +that stand farther apart, and the growth of underbrush +is not so dense; consequently, the labor of travel +is lightened and the range of vision is extended. The +geological formation in the Cascades is varied. +Igneous rock abounds; extensive basaltic cliffs and +large bodies of granite, limestone, sandstone, etc., +are frequently met with, and nearly all the table-lands, +in and about the foot-hills, are composed of +gravel drift, covered with vegetable mold. The Cascades +may be explored with comfort later in the +fall than the Rockies or other more eastern ranges, +the winter setting in on the former much later than +<span class="pagenum">[29]</span> +on the latter, although the winter rains usually come +in November. September and October are the most +pleasant months for an outing in the Cascades.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_028.jpg" alt="028" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.</p> + +<p>* * * It was late in October when my wife and +I started from Chicago for a tour of a month among +the bristling peaks of the Cascades and the picturesque +islands of Puget Sound. A pleasant ride of +fifteen hours on the Wisconsin Central Railroad to +St. Paul, and another of three days and nights on the +grand old Northern Pacific, brought us face to face +with the glittering crests and beetling cliffs that were +the objects of our pilgrimage. As the tourist goes +west, the first view of the range is obtained at the +Dalles of the Columbia river, from whence old Mount +Hood, thirty-five miles distant, rears its majestic +head high into the ethereal vault of heaven, and +neighboring peaks, of lesser magnitude, unfold themselves +to the enraptured vision. As the train whirls +down the broad Columbia river, every curve, around +which we swing with dazzling speed, reveals to our +bewildered gaze new forms of beauty and new +objects of wonder. So many descriptions of the +scenery along this mystic stream have been written, +that every reading man, woman, and child +in the land must be familiar with it, and I will +not repeat or attempt to improve upon any of them. +To say the most extravagant representations are not +exaggerated, is to speak truly, and no one can know +how beautiful some of these towers and cliffs are +until he has seen them.</p> + +<p>The train arrived at Portland, that old and far-famed +metropolis of the North Pacific coast, at half +past ten o'clock in the morning, and after twenty-four +<span class="pagenum">[30]</span> +hours pleasantly spent in viewing its many +points of interest and the snow-covered mountains +thereabouts, we again boarded the Northern Pacific +train and sped toward Tacoma, where we arrived at +six o'clock in the evening. Here we passed another +day in looking over a booming Western city, whose +future prosperity and greatness have been assured by +its having been chosen as the tide-water terminus of +the Northern Pacific Railway. Tacoma is situated +on Commencement Bay, an arm of Puget Sound, +and has a harbor navigable for the largest ocean +steamships. The vast forests of pine, fir, and cedar, +with which it is surrounded, give Tacoma great +commercial importance as a lumbering town, and the +rich agricultural valleys thereabout assure home production +of breadstuffs, vegetables, meats, etc., sufficient +to feed its army of workingmen. Rich coal fields, +in the immediate neighborhood, furnish fuel for +domestic and manufacturing purposes at merely +nominal prices. All the waters hereabouts abound +in salmon, several varieties of trout and other food-fishes, +while in the woods and mountains adjacent, +elk, deer, and bears are numerous; so the place will +always be a popular resort for the sportsman and +the tourist. The chief attraction of the city, however, +for the traveler, will always be the fine view +it affords of Mount Tacoma. This grand old pinnacle +of the Cascade Range, forty-five miles distant, lifts its +snow-mantled form far above its neighbors, which are +themselves great mountains, while its glacier-crowned +summit rises, towers, and struggles aloft 'til——</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"Round its breast the rolling clouds are spread,<br /> +Eternal sunshine settles on its head;"</p> +</div> + +<p class="noin"> +<span class="pagenum">[31]</span> +and its crown is almost lost in the limitless regions +of the deep blue sky.</p> + +<p>From the verandas of the Tacoma House one may +view Mount Tacoma until wearied with gazing. The +Northern Pacific Railway runs within fifteen miles +of the base of it, and from the nearest point a trail +has been made, at a cost of some thousands of dollars, +by which tourists may ascend the mountain on +horseback, to an altitude of about 10,000 feet, with +comparative comfort; but he who goes above that +height must work his passage. There are several +men who claim the distinction of being the only +white man that has ever been to the top of this +mountain. Others declare that it has been ascended +only twice; but we have authentic information of at +least three successful and complete ascents having +been made. Indian legends people the mountain +with evil spirits, which are said to dwell in boiling +caldrons and yawning caverns—</p> + +<div class="inset20"> +<p>"Calling shapes, and beck'ning shadows dire,<br /> +<span class="in1">And airy tongues that syllable men's names."</span></p> +</div> + +<p>Tradition says their wild shrieks and groans may be +heard therein at all times; and no Indians are known +ever to have gone any great distance up Mount +Rainier, as they call it. White men have tried to +employ the native red men as guides and packers +for the ascent, but no amount of money can tempt +them to invade the mysterious cañons and cliffs +with which the marvelous pile is surrounded. They +say that all attempts to do so, by either white or +red men, must result in certain destruction. Undoubtedly +the first ascent was made about thirty +years ago, by General (then Lieutenant) Kautz, and +<span class="pagenum">[32]</span> +Lieutenant Slaughter, of the United States Army, +who were then stationed at Steilacoom, Washington +Territory. They took pack animals, and with an +escort of several men ascended as far as the animals +could go. There they left them and continued the +climb on foot. They were gone nine days, from the +time of leaving their mules until they returned to +the animals, and claimed, no doubt justly, to have +gone to the top of Liberty Cap, the highest of the +three distinct summits that form the triplex corona; +the others being known as the Summit and the +Dome. The next ascent, so far as known, was made +in 1876 by Mr. Hazard Stevens, who gave an account +of his experiences in the <i>Atlantic Monthly</i> for November, +of that year. In 1882, Messrs. Van Trump +and Smith, of San Francisco, made a successful +ascent, and in the same year an Austrian tourist +who attempted to ascend the mountain, got within +three hundred feet of the top, when his progress was +arrested by an avalanche, and he came very near +losing his life. Mr. L. L. Holden, of Boston, went +to within about six hundred feet of the summit in +1883, and Mr. J. R. Hitchcock claims to have +reached it in 1885.</p> + +<p>From the point gained by the trail above mentioned, +the tourist may look down upon the glaciers +of the North Fork of the Puyallup River, 3,000 +feet below, while on the other hand, the glaciers of +the cañon of the Carbon may be seen 4,000 feet +beneath him. Away to the north, glimmering and +glinting under the effulgent rays of the noonday +sun, stretches that labyrinth of waters known as +Puget Sound—</p> + +<div class="inset20"> +<p>"Whose breezy waves toss up their silvery spray;"</p> +</div> + +<p class="noin"> +<span class="pagenum">[33]</span> +while the many islands therein, draped in their +evergreen foliage, look like emeralds set in a sheet +of silver. Many prominent landmarks in British +Columbia are seen, while to the north and south +stretches the Cascade Range, to the west the Olympic, +and to the southwest the Coast Range. All these +are spread out before the eye of the tourist in a +grand panorama unsurpassed for loveliness. Crater +Lake forms one of the mysteries of Mount Tacoma. +About its ragged, ice-bound and rock-ribbed shores +are many dark caverns, from which the Indians conceived +their superstitious fears of this mysterious +pile. An explorer says of one of these chambers:</p> + +<p>"Its roof is a dome of brilliant green, with long +icicles pendant therefrom; while its floor is composed +of the rocks and débris that formed the side +of the crater, worn smooth by the action of water +and heated by a natural register, from which issue +clouds of steam."</p> + +<p>The grand cañon of the Puyallup is two and a half +miles wide, and from its head may be seen the great +glacier, 300 feet in thickness, which supplies the +great volume of water that flows through the Puyallup +river. From here no less than nine different +waterfalls, varying in height from 500 to 1,500 feet, +are visible; and visitors are sometimes thrilled with +the magnificent spectacle of an avalanche of thousands +of tons of overhanging ice falling with an +overwhelming crash into the cañon, roaring and +reverberating in a way that almost makes the great +mountain tremble. Fed by the lake, torrents pour +over the edge of the cliff, and the foaming waters, +forming a perpetual veil of seemingly silver lace,<span class="pagenum">[34]</span> +fall with a fearful leap into the arms of the surging waves +below. Mount Tacoma will be the future +resort of the continent, and many of its wondrous +beauties yet remain to be explored.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_034.jpg" alt="034" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">VIEW ON GREEN RIVER NEAR MOUNT TACOMA.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[35]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_035_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_1.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HE</span> Oregon Railway & +Navigation Company's steamers +leave Tacoma, for Seattle, +at four o'clock in the morning, +and at six-thirty in the +evening, so we were unable to +see this portion of the sound +until our return trip. Seattle is another +of those rushing, pushing, thriving, Western +towns, whose energy and dash always +surprise Eastern people. The population of the city +is 15,000 souls; it has gas-works, water-works, and +a street railway, and does more business, and handles +more money each year than many an Eastern +city of 50,000 or more.</p> + +<p>The annual lumber shipments alone aggregate +over a million dollars, from ten saw-mills that cost +over four millions, and the value of the salmon-canning +product is nearly a million more. The soil of +the valleys adjacent to Seattle is peculiarly adapted +to hop-raising, and that industry is extensively carried +on by a large number of farmers. Some of the +largest and finest hop-ranches in the world are located +in the vicinity, and their product is shipped to +<span class="pagenum">[36]</span> +various American and European ports, over 100,000 +tons having been shipped in 1888, bringing the +growers the handsome sum of $560,327.</p> + +<p>During the fifteen years since the beginning of +this important cultivation, the hop crop is said +never to have failed, nor has it been attacked by +disease, nor deteriorated by reason of the roots being +kept on the same land without replanting. It is +believed that the Dwamish, the White River, and +the Puyallup Valleys could easily produce as many +hops as are now raised in the United States, if labor +could be obtained to pick them. Indians have been +mainly relied upon to do the picking, and they have +flocked to the Sound from nearly all parts of the +Territory, even from beyond the mountains. Many +have come in canoes from regions near the outlet of +the Sound, from British Columbia, and even from +far off Alaska, to engage temporarily in this occupation; +then to purchase goods and return to their +wigwams. They excel the whites in their skill as +pickers, and, as a rule, conduct themselves peaceably.</p> + +<p>Elliot Bay, on which Seattle is built, affords a fine +harbor and good anchorage, while Lakes Union and +Washington, large bodies of fresh water—the +former eleven and the latter eighteen feet above tide +level—lie just outside the city limits, opposite. +There are rich coal mines at hand, which produce +nearly a million dollars worth each year. Large +fertile tracts of agricultural lands, in the near +vicinity, produce grain, vegetables, and fruits of +many varieties, and in great luxuriance. Iron ore +of an excellent quality abounds in the hills and +<span class="pagenum">[37]</span> +mountains back of the city, and with all these +natural resources and advantages at her command, +Seattle is sure to become a great metropolis in the +near future. The climate of the Puget Sound country +is temperate; snow seldom falls before Christmas, +never to a greater depth than a few inches in +the valleys and lowlands, and seldom lies more +than a few days at a time. My friend, Mr. W. +A. Perry, of Seattle, in a letter dated December 6, +says:</p> + +<p>"The weather, since your departure, has been +very beautiful. The morning of your arrival was +the coldest day we have had this autumn. Flowers +are now blooming in the gardens, and yesterday a +friend who lives at Lake Washington sent me a box +of delicious strawberries, picked from the vines in +his garden in the open air on December 4, while +you, poor fellow, were shivering, wrapped up in +numberless coats and furs, in the arctic regions of +Chicago. Why don't you emigrate? There's lots of +room for you on the Sumas, where the flowers are +ever blooming, where the summer never dies, where +the good Lord sends the <i>tyee</i> (great) salmon to your +very door; and where, if you want to shoot, you +have your choice from the tiny jacksnipe to the +cultus bear or the lordly elk."</p> + +<p>There are thousands of acres of natural cranberry +marshes on the shores of the sound, where this fruit +grows wild, of good quality, and in great abundance. +It has not been cultivated there yet, but fortunes +will be made in that industry in the near future.</p> + +<p>But the crowning glory of Puget Sound, and its +greatest source of wealth, are the vast forests of +<span class="pagenum">[39]</span> +timber. It is scarcely advisable to tell the truth +concerning the size to which some of the giant firs +and cedars grow in this country, lest I be accused of +exaggeration; but, for proof of what I say, it will +only be necessary to inquire of any resident of the +Sound country. There are hundreds of fir and cedar +trees in these woods twenty to twenty-five feet in +diameter, above the spur roots, and over three +hundred feet high. A cube was cut from a fir tree, +near Vancouver, and shipped to the Colonial Exhibition +in London in 1886, that measured nine feet +and eight inches in thickness each way. The bark +of this tree was fourteen inches thick. Another +tree was cut, trimmed to a length of three hundred +and two feet, and sent to the same destination, but +this one, I am told, was only six feet through at +the butt.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_038.jpg" alt="038" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">PUGET SOUND SAW-LOGS.</p> + +<p>From one tree cut near Seattle six saw-logs were +taken, five of which were thirty feet long, each, and +the other was twenty-four feet in length. This tree +was only five feet in diameter at the base, and the +first limb grew at a height of two feet above where +the last log was cut off, or over one hundred and +seventy feet from the ground. A red cedar was cut +in the same neighborhood that measured eighteen +feet in diameter six feet above the ground; and +there is a well-authenticated case of a man, named +Hepburn, having lived in one of these cedars for over +a year, while clearing up a farm. The tree was hollow +at the ground, the cavity measuring twenty-two feet +in the clear and running up to a knot hole about +forty feet above. The homesteader laid a floor in +the hollow, seven or eight feet above the ground, and +<span class="pagenum">[40]</span> +placed a ladder against the wall by which to go up +and down. On the floor he built a stone fireplace, +and from it to the knot hole above a stick and clay +chimney. He lived upstairs and kept his horse and +cow downstairs. It may be well to explain that he +was a bachelor, and thus save the reader any anxiety +as to how his wife and children liked the situation.</p> + +<p>The "Sumas Sapling" stands near Sumas Lake, +northeast of Seattle. It is a hollow cedar, twenty-three +feet in the clear, on the ground, and is estimated +to be fifteen feet in diameter twenty feet +above the ground. I have, in several instances, +counted more than a hundred of these mammoth +trees on an acre of land, and am informed that +one tract has been out off that yielded over 1,000,000 +feet of lumber per acre. In this case the trees stood +so close together that many of the stumps had to be +dug out, after the trees had been felled, before the +logs could be gotten out. The system of logging in +vogue here differs widely from that practiced in +Wisconsin, Michigan, Maine, and elsewhere. No +snow or ice are required here, and, in fact, if snow +falls to any considerable depth while crews are in +the woods a halt is called until it goes off.</p> + +<p>Corduroy roads are built into the timber as fast +as required, on which the teams travel, so that it is not +necessary that the ground should be even frozen. +Skids, twelve to eighteen inches thick, are laid across, +these roads, about nine feet apart, and sunk into the +ground so as to project about six inches above the +surface; the bark is peeled off the top, they are kept +greased, and the logs are "snaked" over them with +four to seven yoke of cattle, as may be required.<span class="pagenum">[41]</span> +The wealthier operators use steam locomotives and +cars, building tracks into the timber as fast and as +far as needed. This great timber belt is co-extensive +with Puget Sound, the Straits of Georgia, and the +Cascade Mountains. I believe that at the present +rate at which lumber is being consumed, there is fir, +pine, and cedar enough in Washington Territory and +British Columbia to last the world a thousand years.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_041.jpg" alt="041" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[42]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_042_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_042_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_042_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_042_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">UGET SOUND</span> is a great inland +sea, extending nearly 200 miles +from the ocean, having a surface +of about 2,000 square miles, +and a shore line of 1,594 miles, +indented with numerous bays, harbors, and inlets, +each with its peculiar name; and it contains numerous +islands inhabited by farmers, lumbermen, herdsmen, +and those engaged in quarrying lime and building +stone. Nothing can surpass the beauty of these +waters and their safety. Not a shoal exists within +the Sound, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty +Bay, Hood's Canal, or the Straits of Georgia, that +would in any way interrupt their navigation by a +seventy-four-gun ship. There is no country in the +world that possesses waters equal to these. The +shores of all the inlets and bays are remarkably bold, +so much so that a ship's side would touch the +shore before her keel would touch the ground. The +country by which these waters are surrounded has +a remarkably salubrious climate.</p> + +<p>The region affords every advantage for the accommodation +of a vast commercial and military marine, +with conveniences for docks, and there are a great +many sites for towns and cities, which at all times +would be well supplied with water, and the surrounding +country, which is well adapted to agriculture, +<span class="pagenum">[43]</span> +would supply all the wants of a large population. +No part of the world affords finer islands, sounds, +or a greater number of harbors than are found within +these waters. They are capable of receiving the +largest class of vessels, and are without a single hidden +danger. From the rise and fall of the tide (18 +feet), every facility is afforded for the erection of +works for a great maritime nation. The rivers also +furnish hundreds of sites for water-power for manufacturing +purposes. On this Sound are already situated +many thriving towns and cities, besides those +already mentioned, bidding for the commerce of the +world.</p> + +<p>The flora of the Sound region is varied and interesting. +A saturated atmosphere, constantly in contact +with the Coast Range system of upheaval, together +with the warm temperature, induces a growth +of vegetation almost tropical in its luxuriance. On +the better soils, the shot-clay hills and uplands, and +on the alluvial plains and river bottoms, grow the +great trees, already mentioned, and many other +species of almost equal beauty, though of no commercial +value.</p> + +<p>"The characteristic shrubs are the cornels and the +spiræas, many species. These, with the low thickets +of salal (<i>Gaultheria shallon</i>), Oregon grape (berries), +and fern (chiefly pteris, which is the most abundant), +and the tangle of the trailing blackberry (<i>Rubus +pedatus</i>) make the forests almost impenetrable save +where the ax or the wild beast or the wilder fire have +left their trails.</p> + +<p>"The dense shade of the forest gives little opportunity +for the growth of the more lowly herbs. +<span class="pagenum">[45]</span> +Where the fire has opened these shades to the light +the almost universal fireweed (<i>epilobium</i>) and the +lovely brown fire-moss (<i>funaria</i>) abound. In swamps +and lowlands the combustion of decay, almost as +quick and effective as fire itself, opens large spaces +to the light; and here abound chiefly the skunk +cabbage of the Pacific coast (<i>lysichiton</i>) and many +forms of the lovliest mosses, grown beyond belief +save by those who have looked upon their tropical +congeners. <i>Hypnums</i> and <i>Mniums</i> make the great +mass which meet the eye; and among the many less +obvious forms a careful search will reveal many +species characteristic of this coast alone. The lower +forms of the cryptogams, the lichens and the fungi, +abound in greatest profusion as might be expected. +The chief interest in these, in the present state of our +knowledge of them, springs from their disposition +to invade the more valuable forms of vegetation +which follow advancing civilization."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_044.jpg" alt="044" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">VIEWS ON PUGET SOUND.</p> + +<p>I measured one fungus, which I found growing upon +the decaying trunk of a mammoth fir, that was thirteen +inches thick and thirty-four inches wide. I have +frequently seen mosses growing on rotten logs, in +the deep shades of these lonely forests, that were +twelve to sixteen inches deep, and others hanging +from branches overhead three feet or more in length. +There are places in these dense forests where the trees +stand so close and their branches are so intertwined +that the sun's rays never reach the ground, and have +not, perhaps for centuries; and it is but natural that +these shade and moisture loving plants should grow +to great size in such places.</p> + +<p>The fauna of this Territory includes the elk, black-tailed +<span class="pagenum">[46]</span> +deer, <i>Cervus columbianus</i>; the mule-deer, +<i>Cervus macrotus</i>; the Virginia deer, <i>Cervus virginianus</i>; +the caribou, the Rocky Mountain goat, +Rocky Mountain sheep, the grizzly and black bear. +Among the smaller mammals there are the raccoon, +the cougar, wild cat, gray wolf, black wolf, prairie +wolf or coyote, gray and red fox, fisher, mink, +martin, beaver, otter, sea otter, red squirrel, ermine, +muskrat, sea lion, fur and hair seals, wolverine, +skunk, badger, porcupine, marmot, swamp hare, +jack-rabbit, etc. Of birds and wild fowls there is +a long list, among which may be mentioned several +varieties of geese and brant, including the rare and +toothsome black brant, which in season hovers in +black clouds about the sand spits; the canvas back, +redhead, blue bill, teal, widgeon, shoveler, and various +other ducks; ruffed, pinnated, and blue grouse; +various snipes and plovers; eagles, hawks, owls, +woodpeckers, jays, magpies, nuthatches, warblers, +sparrows, etc. There are many varieties of game and +food fishes in the Sound and its tributaries, in addition +to the salmon and trout already mentioned. +In short, this whole country is a paradise for the +sportsman and the naturalist, whatever the specialty +of either.</p> + +<p>We left Seattle, <i>en route</i> for Victoria, at seven +o'clock on a bright, crisp November morning. The +air was still, the bay was like a sheet of glass, and +only long, low swells were running outside. We +had a charming view of the Cascade Mountains to +the east and the Olympics to the west, all day. The +higher peaks were covered with snow, and the sunlight +glinted and shimmered across them in playful,<span class="pagenum">[47]</span> +cheery mood. Deep shadows fell athwart dark +cañons, in whose gloomy depths we felt sure herds +of elk and deer were nipping the tender herbage, +and along whose raging rivers sundry bears were +doubtless breakfasting on salmon straight. Old +Mount Baker's majestic head, rising 10,800 feet above +us and only fifty miles away, was the most prominent +object in the gorgeous landscape, and one on +which we never tired of gazing. We had only to +cast our eyes from the grand scene ashore to that +at our feet, and <i>vice versa</i>, to—</p> + +<div class="inset14"> +<p>"See the mountains kiss high heaven,<br /> +And the waves clasp one another."</p> +</div> + +<p>A large colony of gulls followed the steamer, with +ceaseless beat of downy wings, from daylight till dark, +and after the first hour they seemed to regard us as +old friends. They hovered about the deck like +winged spirits around a lost child. Strange bird +thus to poise with tireless wing over this watery +waste day after day! Near the route of the vessel +one of the poor creatures lay dead, drifting sadly +and alone on the cold waves. Mysterious creature, +with—</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"Lack lustre eye, and idle wing,<br /> +<span class="in1">And smirched breast that skims no more,</span><br /> +Hast thou not even a grave<br /> +<span class="in1">Upon the dreary shore,</span><br /> +Forlorn, forsaken thing?"</p> +</div> + +<p>Our feathered fellow-passengers greeted us with +plaintive cries whenever we stepped out of the cabin, +dropping into the water in pursuit of every stray +bit of food that was thrown overboard from the cook-room. +My wife begged several plates of stale bread +<span class="pagenum">[48]</span> +from the steward, and, breaking it into small pieces, +threw handfuls at a time into the water.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_048.jpg" alt="048" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">OUR FEATHERED FELLOW-PASSENGERS.</p> + +<p>Twenty or thirty of the birds would drop in a bunch +where the bread fell, and a lively scramble would +ensue for the coveted food. The lucky ones would +quickly corral it, however, when the whole flight, +rising again, would follow and soon overtake the +vessel. Then they would cluster around their patron, +cooing, and coaxing for more of the welcome bounty. +I took out my detective camera and made a number +of exposures on the gulls, which resulted very satisfactorily. +Many of the prints show them sadly out +of focus, but this was unavoidable, as I focused at +<span class="pagenum">[49]</span> +twenty feet, and of course all that were nearer or +farther away, at the instant of exposure, are not +sharp. Many, however, that were on wing at the +time of making the exposure, and at the proper distance +from the lens, are clearly and sharply cut.</p> + +<p>These pictures form a most interesting study for +artists, anatomists, naturalists, and others, the +wings being shown in every position assumed by the +birds in flight. The shutter worked at so high a +pressure that only one or two birds in the entire +series show any movement at all, and they are but +very slightly blurred. When we consider that the +steamer, as well as the gulls, was in motion—running +ten miles an hour—trembling and vibrating +from stem to stern, and that, in many cases, the +birds were going in an opposite direction from that +of the vessel, the results obtained are certainly marvelous. +It may interest some of my readers to +know that I used an Anthony detective camera, +making a four-by-five-inch picture, to which is fitted +a roll holder, and in all the work done on this trip, +I used negative paper. I also obtained, <i>en route</i>, +several good views of various islands, and points of +interest on the mainland, while the boat was in +motion.</p> + +<p>There are many beautiful scenes in and about the +Sound; many charming islands, clothed in evergreen +foliage, from whose interiors issue clear, sparkling +brooks of fresh water; while the mainland shores +rise abruptly, in places, to several hundreds of feet, +bearing their burdens of giant trees. There are perpendicular +cut banks on many of the islands and +the mainland shores, thirty, forty, or fifty feet high, +<span class="pagenum">[51]</span> +almost perpendicular, made so by the hungry waves +having eaten away their foundations, and the earth +having fallen into the brine, leaving exposed bare +walls of sand and gravel. On Whidby Island, one +of the largest in the Sound, there was, up to a few +years ago, a herd of wild cattle, to which no one +made claim of ownership, and which were, consequently, +considered legitimate game for anyone +who cared to hunt them. They were wary and cunning +in the extreme. The elk or deer, native and to +the manor born, could not be more so. But, alas, +these cattle were not to be the prey of true, conscientious +sportsmen; for the greed of the market +hunter and the skin hunter exceeded the natural +cunning of the noble animals, and they have been +nearly exterminated; only ten or twelve remain, and +they will soon have to yield up their lives to the +insatiable greed of those infamous butchers.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_050.jpg" alt="050" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">DECEPTION PASS, PUGET SOUND.</p> + +<p>One of the most curious and interesting points in the +sound is Deception Pass. This is a narrow channel +or passage between two islands, only fifty yards +wide, and about two hundred yards long. On either +side rise abrupt and towering columns of basaltic rock, +and during both ebb and flow the tide runs through +it, between Padilla and Dugalla Bays, with all the +wild fury and bewildering speed of the maelstrom. +This pass takes its name from the fact of there +being three coves near—on the west coast of +Whidby Island—that look so much like Deception +that they are often mistaken for it at night or during +foggy weather, even by experienced navigators. +All the skill and care of the best pilots are required +to make the pass in safety, and the bravest of them +<span class="pagenum">[52]</span> +heave a sigh of relief when once its beetling cliffs +and seething abysses are far astern. Gulls hover +about this weird place, and eagles soar above it at all +hours, as if admiring its pristine beauties, yet in +superstitious awe of the dark depths. Mount Erie, +two miles away, rising to a height of 1,300 feet, casting +its deep shadows across the pass and surrounding +waters, completes a picture of rare beauty and +grandeur.</p> + +<p>We reached Victoria, that quaint, old, aristocratic, +ultra-English town, just as the sun was sinking +beneath the waves, that rolled restlessly on the surface +of Juan de Fuca Strait. We were surprised to see +so substantial and well-built a town as this, and +one possessing so much of the air of age and independence, +so far north and west. One might readily +imagine, from the exterior appearance of the city +and its surroundings, that he were in the province +of Quebec instead of that of British Columbia. My +wife felt that she must not remain longer away from +home at present, and we were to part here; therefore, +in the early morning she embarked for home, +while I transferred my effects and self to the steamer +Princess Louise, bound for Burrard Inlet.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_052.jpg" alt="052" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[53]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_053_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_053_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">T</span> daylight in the morning we entered English +Bay, having crossed the strait during the +night. The sun climbed up over the snow-mantled +mountains into a cloudless sky, +and his rays were reflected from the limpid, +tranquil surface of the bay:</p> + +<div class="inset24"> +<p><span class="in3">"Blue, darkly, deeply, beautifully blue,"</span></p> +</div> + +<p class="noin">as if from the face of a mirror. A few +miles to the east, the triple-mouthed Frazer +empties its great volume of fresh, cold, glacier-tinted +fluid into the briny inland sea, and its +delta, level as a floor, stretches back many miles +on either side of the river to the foot-hills of the +Cascades. Thousands of ducks sat idly and lazily +in the water, sunning themselves, pruning their +feathers, and eyeing us curiously but fearlessly, +as we passed, sometimes within twenty-five or +thirty yards of them. A few geese crossed hither +and thither, in low, long, dark lines, uttering their +familiar honk, honk; but they were more wary +than their lesser cousins, and kept well out of range. +I asked the purser if there was any rule against +shooting on board, and he said no; to go down on +the after main deck, and shoot until I was tired. I +took my Winchester express from the case, went +below and opened on the ducks. They at once found +<span class="pagenum">[54]</span> +it necessary to get out of the country, and their +motion, and that of the vessel combined, caused me +to score several close misses, but I finally found the +bull's-eye, so to speak, and killed three in rapid succession. +Then the mate came down and said:</p> + +<p>"We don't allow no one to be firin' off guns on +board."</p> + +<p>"I have the purser's permission," I said.</p> + +<p>"Well," he replied, "the captain's better authority +than the purser on this here boat," whereupon +he returned to the cabin deck, and so did I. I was +not seriously disappointed, however, for I cared +little for the duck shooting; I was in quest of larger +game, and only wanted to practice a little, to renew +acquaintance and familiarity with my weapon. +Early in the day we entered Burrard Inlet, a narrow, +crooked, and peculiarly shaped arm of the salt water, +that winds and threads its way many miles back +into the mountains, so narrow in places, that a boy +may cast a stone across it, and yet so deep as to be +navigable for the largest ocean steamship. The inlet +is so narrow and crooked that a stranger, sailing into +it for the first time, would pronounce it a great river +coming down from the mountains. Through this +picturesque body of water our good boat cleft the +shadows of the overhanging mountains until nearly +noon, when we landed at Vancouver, the terminus +of the Canadian Pacific Railway. In consequence of +this important selection, the place is a busy mart of +trade. The clang of saw and hammer, the rattle of +wheels, the general din of a building boom, are such +as to tire one's nerves in a few hours. Later in the +day we reached Port Moody. This town was originally +<span class="pagenum">[55]</span> +designated as the tide-water terminus of the +road, and had its brief era of prosperity and speculation +in consequence; but now that the plan has +been changed it has been reduced to a mere way +station, and has relapsed into the dullest kind of +dullness.</p> + +<p>From here I staged across the divide to New +Westminster, on the Frazer river, the home of Mr. +J. C. Hughs, who had invited me there to hunt +Rocky Mountain goats with him. I was grieved +beyond measure, however, to learn on my arrival that +he was dangerously ill, and went at once to his +house, but he was unable to see me. He sank rapidly +from the date of his first illness, died two days after +my arrival, and I therefore found myself in a strange +land, with no friend or acquaintance to whom I +could go for information or advice.</p> + +<p>My first object, therefore, was to find a guide to take +me into the mountains, and although I found several +pretended sportsmen, I could hear of no one who had +ever killed a goat, except poor Hughs, and a Mr. +Fannin, who had formerly lived there, but had lately +moved away, so of course no one knew where I could +get a guide. Several business men, of whom I asked +information, inquired at once where I was from, and +on learning that I was an American, simply said "I +don't know," and were, or at least pretended to be, +too busy to talk with me. They seemed to have no +use for people from this side of the boundary line, +and this same ill-feeling toward my Nation (with a +big N) was shown me in other places, and on various +occasions, while in the province. I found, however, +one gracious exception, in New Westminster, in the +<span class="pagenum">[56]</span> +person of Mr. C. G. Major, a merchant, who, the moment +I made known to him my wish, replied:</p> + +<p>"Well, sir, the best guide and the best hunter in +British Columbia left here not three minutes ago. +He is an Indian who lives on Douglass Lake, and I +think I can get him for you. If I can, you are fixed +for a good and successful hunt."</p> + +<p>This news, and the frank, manly, cordial greeting +that came with it, were surprising to me, after the +treatment I had been receiving. Mr. Major invited +me into his private office, gave me a chair by the fire, +and sent out a messenger to look for "Douglass Bill," +the Indian of whom he had spoken. This important +personage soon came in. Mr. Major told him what +I wanted, and it took but a few minutes to make +a bargain. He was a solid, well-built Indian, had +an intelligent face, spoke fair English, and had the +reputation of being, as Mr. Major had said, an excellent +hunter. Mr. Major further said he considered +Bill one of the most honest, truthful Indians he had +ever known, and that I could trust him as implicitly +as I could any white man in the country.</p> + +<p>This arrangement was made on Saturday night, +but Bill said he could not start on the hunt until +Wednesday morning, as his mother-in-law had just +died, and he must go and help to bury her on Tuesday. +The funeral was to take place on the Chilukweyuk +river, a tributary of the Frazer, about fifty +miles above New Westminster, and it was arranged +that I should go up on the steamer, and meet him at +the mouth of Harrison river, another tributary +stream, on Wednesday morning. We were then to +go up the Harrison to the hunting grounds. I was +<span class="pagenum">[57]</span> +delighted at the prospect of a successful hunt, with +so good a guide, and cheerfully consented to wait +the necessary three days for the red man to perform +the last sad rites of his tribe over the remains of +the departed <i>kloochman</i>, but I was doomed to disappointment.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_057.jpg" alt="057" /> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<span class="pagenum">[58]</span><img src="images/illo_058.jpg" alt="058" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A VIEW ON THE FRAZER.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[59]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_059_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_059_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_059_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_059_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_059_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">OR</span> many years I had read, heard, and +dreamed of the Frazer, that mysterious +stream which flows out from among +the icy fastnesses of the Cascades, in +the far-off confines of British Columbia. +For many years had I longed to see +with my own eyes some of the grand +scenery of the region it drains, and now, +at last, that mighty stream flowed at my +feet. How eagerly I drank in the beauty of +the scene! How my heart thrilled at the +thought that I stood face to face with this land +of my dreams and was about to explore a portion, +at least, of the country in which this great river +rises. The beautiful lines penned by Maria Brooks, +on the occasion of her first visit to the St. Lawrence, +came vividly to my mind:</p> + +<div class="inset22"> +<p>"The first time I beheld thee, beauteous stream,<br /> +<span class="in1">How pure, how smooth, how broad thy bosom heaved;</span><br /> +What feelings rushed upon my heart! a gleam<br /> +<span class="in1">As of another life my kindling soul received."</span></p> +</div> + +<p>I left New Westminster at seven o'clock Monday +morning on the steamer Adelaide, for the mouth of +Harrison river, sixty miles up the Frazer. There +were over twenty Indians on board, going up to the +mouth of the Chilukweyuk, to attend the funeral of +Douglass Bill's deceased relative. As soon as I +<span class="pagenum">[60]</span> +learned their destination I inquired if he were +among them, but they said he was not. He had +come aboard before we left, but for some reason had +decided to go on another boat that left half an hour +ahead of the Adelaide. The voyage proved intensely +interesting. The Frazer is from a quarter to half a +mile wide, and is navigable for large steamers for a +hundred miles above its mouth. There are portions +of the valley that are fertile, thickly settled, and +well cultivated. The valleys of some of its tributaries +are also good farming districts, and grain, +fruits, and vegetables of various kinds grow in +abundance. At the mouth of the Chilukweyuk I +saw fine peaches that had grown in the valley, within +ten miles of perpetual snow. The river became +very crooked as we neared the mountains, and +finally we entered the gorge, or cañon, where the +rocky-faced mountains rise, sheer from the water's +edge, to heights of many hundreds of feet, and just +back of them tower great peaks, clad in eternal +snows. The little camera was again brought into +requisition and, as we rounded some of these picturesque +bends and traversed some of the beautiful +reaches, I secured many good views, though the day +was cloudy and lowery. The boat being in motion, +I was, of course, compelled to make the shortest +possible exposures, and was, therefore, unable to get +fine details in the shadows; yet many of the prints +turned out fairly well.</p> + +<p>We saw several seals in the river on the way up, +and the captain informed me that at certain seasons +they were quite plentiful in the Frazer and all the +larger streams in the neighborhood. They go up +<span class="pagenum">[61]</span> +the Frazer to the head of navigation and he could +not say how much farther. He said that on one +occasion a female seal and her young were seen +sporting in the water ahead of the steamer, and that +when the vessel came within about fifty yards they +dove. Nothing more was seen of the puppy, and +the captain thought it must have been caught in +the wheel and killed, for the mother followed the +vessel several miles, whining, looking longingly, +pitifully, and beseechingly at the passengers and +crew. She would swim around and around the +steamer, coming close up, showing no fear for her +own safety, whatever, but seeming to beg them to +give back her baby. She appeared to have lost sight +of it entirely, whatever its fate, and to think it had +been captured and taken on board. Her moaning +and begging, her intense grief, were pitiable in the +extreme, and brought tears to the eyes of stout, +brawny men. Finally she seemed completely +exhausted with anguish and her exertions and gradually +sank out of sight. My informant said he +hoped never to witness another such sight.</p> + +<p>We arrived at the mouth of Harrison river at six +o'clock in the evening. There is a little Indian village +there called by the same name as the river, and +Mr. J. Barker keeps a trading post on the reservation, +he being the only white man living there. He +made me welcome to the best accommodations his +bachelor quarters afforded, but said the only sleeping-room +he had was full, as two friends from down +the river were stopping with him for the night, and +that I would have to lodge with one of the Indian +families. He said there was one <i>kloochman</i> (the +<span class="pagenum">[62]</span> +Chinook word for squaw) who was a remarkably +neat, cleanly housekeeper, who had a spare room, +and who usually kept any strangers that wished to +stop over night in the village. While we were talking +the squaw in question came in and Mr. Barker +said to her:</p> + +<p>"Mary, yah-kwa Boston man tik-eh moo-sum +me-si-ka house po-lak-le." (Here is an American +who would like to sleep in your house to-night.) +To which she replied:</p> + +<p>"Yak-ka hy-ak" (he can come), and the bargain +was closed.</p> + +<p>I remained at the store and talked with Mr. +Barker and his friends until ten o'clock, when he +took a lantern and piloted me over to the Indian +rancherie, where I was to lodge. I took my sleeping-bag +with me and thanked my stars that I did, for +notwithstanding the assurances given me by good +Mr. Barker that the Indian woman was as good a +housekeeper as the average white woman, I was +afraid of vermin. I have never known an Indian to +be without the hemipterous little insect, <i>Pediculus</i> +(<i>humanus</i>) <i>capitis</i>. Possibly there may be some +Indians who do not wear them; I simply say I have +never had the pleasure of knowing one, and I have +known a great many, too. I seriously doubt if one +has ever yet lived many days at a time devoid of the +companionship of these pestiferous little creatures. +In fact, an Indian and a louse are natural allies—boon +companions—and are as inseparable as the +boarding-house bed and the bedbug. The red man +is so inured to the ravages of his parasitic companion, +so accustomed to have him rustling +<span class="pagenum">[63]</span> +around on his person and foraging for grub, that he +pays little or no attention to the insect, and seems +hardly to feel its bite.</p> + +<p>You will rarely see an Indian scratch his head or, +in fact, any portion of his person, as a white man +does when he gets a bite. Lo gives forth no outward +sign that he is thickly settled, and it is only when +he sits or lies down in the hot sun that the inhabitants +of his hair and clothing come to the front; +then you may see them crawling about like roaches +in a hotel kitchen. Or, when he has lain down on a +board, or your tent canvas, or any light-colored substance +and got up and gone away, leaving some of +his neighbors behind, then you know he is—like +others of his race—the home of a large colony of +insects.</p> + +<p>When Mary and her husband, George, saw my +roll of bedding, which they supposed to be simply +blankets, they protested to Mr. Barker that I would +not need them, that there was "hy-iu mit-lite pa-se-se" +(plenty of covering on the bed). I told them, +however, that I could sleep better in my own +blankets and preferred to use them. I took the +bundle into my room, spread the sleeping-bag on +the bed and crawled into it. The outer covering of +the bag being of thick, hard canvas, I hoped it +would prove an effectual barrier against the +assaults of the vermin, and that they might not find +the portal by which I entered, and so it proved.</p> + +<p>George and Mary live in a very well-built, comfortable, +one-story frame cottage, divided into two rooms; +the kitchen, dining-room, parlor and family sleeping-room +all in one, and the spare room being the other.<span class="pagenum">[64]</span> +The house has four windows and one door, a shingle +roof and a board floor. They have a cooking-stove, +several chairs, a table, cupboard, etc. The bedstead +on which I slept was homemade, but neat and substantial. +It was furnished with a white cotton tick, +filled with straw, feather pillows, several clean-looking +blankets, and a pair of moderately clean cotton +sheets. I have slept in much worse-looking beds +in hotels kept by white people.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_064.jpg" alt="064" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">GEORGE AND MARY.</p> + +<p>This Indian village, Harrison river, or Skowlitz, +as the Indians call both the river and the village, is +composed of about twenty families, living in houses +<span class="pagenum">[65]</span> +of about the same class and of the same general design +as the one described, although some are slightly +larger and better, while others are not quite so good. +All have been built by white carpenters, or the +greater part of the work was done by them, and the +lumber and other materials were manufactured by +white men. None of the dwellings have ever been +painted inside or out, but there is a neat mission +church in the village that has been honored with a +coat of white paint. There are a few log shacks +standing near, that look very much as if they had +been built by native industry. The frame houses, I +am informed, were erected by the Government and +the church by the Catholic Missionary Society.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_065.jpg" alt="065" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[66]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_066_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_066_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_066_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"> was not compelled to eat with George and +Mary, for Mr. Barker had kindly invited +me to breakfast with him, and when I +reached his store, at the breakfast hour +in the morning, I found a neat inviting-looking +table in the room back of the +store, loaded with broiled ham, baked +potatoes, good bread and butter, a pot of +steaming coffee, etc.; all of which we +enjoyed intensely. Mr. Barker informed +me there was a cluster of hot springs ten miles up +the river, at the foot of Harrison Lake, the source of +Harrison river, near which a large hotel had lately +been built. Upon inquiry as to a means of getting +up there, I learned that he had employed a couple +of Indians to take some freight up that morning in +a canoe, and that I could probably secure a passage +with them. As Harrison Lake, or rather the mountains +surrounding it, were the hunting-grounds +which Douglass Bill had selected, and as we would +have to pass these hot springs en route, I decided +to go there and wait for him. I therefore arranged +with Barker to send him up to the springs, when he +should call for me at the store, and took passage +in the freight canoe.</p> + +<p>The Harrison river is a large stream that cuts its +way through high, rugged mountains, and the water +<span class="pagenum">[67]</span> +has a pronounced milky tinge imparted by the glaciers +from which its feeders come, away back in the +Cascades. It is a famous salmon stream, and thousands +of these noble fishes, of mammoth size, that +had lately gone up the river and into the small +creeks to spawn, having died from disease, or having +been killed in the terrible rapids they had to +encounter, were lying dead on every sand bar, +lodged against every stick of driftwood, or were +slowly floating in the current. Their carcasses lined +the shore all along the lower portion of the river, +and the hogs, of which the Indians have large numbers, +were feasting on the putrid masses as voraciously +as if they had been ears of new, sweet corn. +The stench emitted by these festering bodies was +nauseating in the extreme; and the water, ordinarily +so pure and palatable, was now totally unfit for use. +I counted over one hundred of these dead fishes on a +single sand bar of less than half an acre in extent. +Cruising amid such surroundings was anything but +pleasant, and I was glad the current was slow here +so that, though going up stream, we were able to +make good progress, and soon got away from this +nauseating sight.</p> + +<p>About a mile above the village we rounded a bend +in the river, where it spread out to nearly a quarter +of a mile in width, and on a sand bar in the middle +of the stream, sat a flock of geese. I picked up my +rifle and took a shot at them, but the ball cut a ditch +in the water nearly fifty yards this side, and went +singing over their heads into the woods beyond. +They did not seem lo enjoy such music, and taking +wing started for some safer feeding-ground, carrying +<span class="pagenum">[69]</span> +on a lively conversation in goose Latin, probably +about any fool who would try to kill geese at that +distance. I turned loose on them again, and in about +a second after pulling the trigger one of them seemed +to explode, as if hit by a dynamite bomb. For a few +seconds the air was full of fragments of goose, which +rained down into the water like a shower of autumn +leaves. My red companions enjoyed the result of this +shot hugely, and a canoe load of Indians from up +river, who were passing at the time, set up a regular +war whoop. We pulled over and got what was left of +the goose, and found that my express bullet had +carried away all his stern rigging, his rudder, one +of his paddles, and a considerable portion of his +hull. The water was covered with fragments of sail, +provisions of various kinds, and sundry bits of cargo +and hull. Charlie picked up so much of the wreck +as hung together, and said in his broken, laconic +English:</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_068.jpg" alt="068" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">DEAD SALMON ON HARRISON RIVER.</p> + +<p>"Dat no good goose gun. Shoot him too much +away."</p> + +<p>There were plenty of ducks, coots, grebes, and +gulls on the river, and I had fine sport with them +whenever I cared to shoot.</p> + +<p>A mile above where I killed the goose we entered +a long reach of shoal rapids, where all the brawn +and skill of the Indians were required to stem the +powerful current and the immense volume of water. +The rapids are over a mile long, and it took us nearly +two hours to reach their head. As soon as we were +well into them we came among large numbers of live, +healthy salmon. Many of them were running down +the stream, some up, while others seemed not to be +<span class="pagenum">[71]</span> +going anywhere in particular, but just loafing +around, enjoying themselves. They were wild, but, +owing to the water being so rough and rapid, we +frequently got within two or three feet of them +before they saw us, and the Indians killed two large +ones with their canoe poles. Occasionally we would +corner a whole school of them in some little pocket, +where the water was so shallow that their dorsal fins +would stick out, and where there was no exit but by +passing close to the canoe. When alarmed they +would cavort around like a herd of wild mustangs +in a corral, until they would churn the water into a +foam; then, emboldened by their peril, they would +flash out past us with the velocity of an arrow. +They were doing a great deal of jumping; frequently +a large fish, two or three feet long, would start across +the stream, and make four or five long, high leaps +out of the water, in rapid succession, only remaining +in the water long enough after each jump to gain +momentum for the next. I asked Charlie why they +were doing this, if they were sick, or if something +was biting them.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_070.jpg" alt="070" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">WRECKED BY AN EXPRESS BULLET</p> + +<p>"No," he said. "Play. All same drunk—raise +hell!"</p> + +<p>These salmon run up the rivers and creeks to +deposit their spawn, and seem possessed of an insane +desire to get as far up into the small brooks as they +possibly can. They frequently pursue their mad +course up over boiling, foaming, roaring rapids, and +abrupt, perpendicular falls, where it would seem +impossible for any living creature to go—regardless +of their own safety or comfort. They are often found +in dense schools in little creeks away up near their +<span class="pagenum">[72]</span> +sources, where there is not water enough to cover +their bodies, and where they become an easy prey to +man, or to wild beasts. In such cases, Indians kill +them with spears and sharp sticks, or even catch and +throw them out with their hands.</p> + +<p>Or if their journeyings take them among farms or +ranches, as is often the case, the people throw them +out on the banks with pitch-forks, and after supplying +their household necessities, they cart the noble +fish away and feed them to their hogs, or even use +them to fertilize their fields. I have seen salmon +wedged into some of the small streams until you could +almost walk on them. The banks of many creeks, +far up in the foot-hills, are almost wholly composed +of the bones of salmon. In traveling through dense +woods I have often heard, at some distance ahead, +a loud splashing and general commotion in water, +as if of a dozen small boys in bathing. This would, +perhaps, be the first intimation I had that I was near +water, and, on approaching the source of the noise, +I have found it to have been made by a school of +these lordly salmon, wedged into one of the little +streams, thrashing the creek into suds in their efforts +to get to its head.</p> + +<p>After depositing their spawn the poor creatures, +already half dead from bruises and exhaustion +incurred in their perilous voyage up stream, begin to +drift down. But how different, now, from the bright, +silvery creatures that once darted like rays of living +light through the sea. Unable to control their movements +in the descent, even as well as in the ascent, +they drift at the cruel mercy of the stream. They +are driven against rough bowlders, submerged logs +<span class="pagenum">[73]</span> +and snags, or through raging rapids by the fury of +the torrent, until hundreds, yes thousands, of them +are killed outright, and thousands more die from +sheer exhaustion.</p> + +<p>I have seen salmon with their noses broken and +torn off; others with a lower jaw torn away; some +with sides, backs, or bellies bruised and bleeding; +others with their tails whipped and split into shreds, +and still others with their entrails torn out by +snags. In this sad plight they are beset at every +turn in the river by their natural enemies. Bears, +cougars, minks, wild cats, fishers, eagles, hawks, +and worst and most destructive of all, men, await +them everywhere, and it would be strange, +indeed, if one in each thousand that left the salt +water should live to return. The few that do so, +are, of course, so weak that they fall an easy prey +to the seals, sharks, and other enemies, that wait +with open mouths to engulf them. So, all the leaping, +rushing multitude that entered the river a few +months ago, have, ere this, gone to their doom, but +their seed is planted in the icy brook, far away in +the mountains, and their young will soon come forth +to take the place of the parents that have passed +away. The instinct of reproduction must, indeed, +be an absorbing passion in poor dumb creatures, +when they will thus sacrifice life in the effort to +deposit their ova where the offspring may best be +brought into being.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_073.jpg" alt="073" /> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<span class="pagenum">[74]</span> +<img src="images/illo_074.jpg" alt="074" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">INDIAN SPEARING SALMON.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[74]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_075_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_6.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">BOVE</span> the rapids we had a lovely reach +of river, from a quarter to half a +mile wide, with no perceptible current. +Impelled by our united efforts, +our light cedar canoe shot over the +water as lightly and almost as +swiftly as the gulls above us sped +through the air. I took one of the +poles and used it while the Indians +plied their paddles, and for +a distance of nearly two miles the depth of +water did not vary two inches from four and a half +feet. The bottom was composed of a hard, white +sand, into which the pole, with my weight on it, +sunk less than an inch; in fact, the current is so +slight, the width of the river so great, and the general +character of the water such, that it might all be +termed a lake above the falls; though the foot of +the lake, as designated on the map, has a still +greater widening five miles above the head of the +falls.</p> + +<p>Abrupt basaltic walls, 500 to 1,000 feet high and +nearly perpendicular, rise from the water's edge +on either side. On the more sloping faces of +these, vegetation has obtained root-room, little +bunches of soil have formed, and various evergreens, +alders, water hazels, etc., grow vigorously. +<span class="pagenum">[77]</span> +Half a foot of snow had lately fallen on the tops of +these mountains, and a warm, southwest wind and +the bright sun were now sending it down into the +river in numerous plunging streams of crystal fluid. +For thousands of years these miniature torrents have, +at frequent intervals, tumbled down here, and in all +that time have worn but slight notches in the rocky +walls.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_076.jpg" alt="076" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A TRIBUTARY OF THE HARRISON.</p> + +<p>Shrubs have grown up along and over these +small waterways, and as the little rivulets come +coursing down, dodging hither and thither under overhanging +clumps of green foliage, leaping from crag +to crag and curving from right to left and from left +to right, around and among frowning projections of +invulnerable rock, glinting and sparkling in the sunlight, +they remind one of silvery satin ribbons, tossed +by a summer breeze, among the brown tresses of +some winsome maiden. I took several views of these +little waterfalls, but their transcendent beauty can +not be intelligently expressed on a little four-by-five +silver print.</p> + +<p>Several larger streams also put into the Harrison, +that come from remote fastnesses, and seem to carve +their way through great mountains of granite. Their +shores are lined with dense growths of conifers, and +afford choice retreats for deer, bears, and other wild +animals.</p> + +<p>At three o'clock in the afternoon we rounded a +high point of rocks that jutted out into the river, +and another beautiful picture—another surprise, in +this land of surprises—lay before us. Harrison +Lake, nestling among snowy peaks and dotted with +basaltic islands, reflected in its peaceful depths the +<span class="pagenum">[78]</span> +surrounding mountains as clearly as though its +placid surface had been covered with quicksilver. +This lake is about forty miles long, is fed by the +Lillooet river and numerous smaller streams. Silver +creek, which comes in on the west side, twenty miles +north of the hot springs, is a beautiful mountain +stream of considerable size. A quarter of a mile +above its mouth, it makes a perpendicular fall of +over sixty feet. It is one of the most beautiful falls +in the country. Near the head of the lake, and in +full view from the springs, old Mount Douglass, clad +in perpetual snow and glacial ice, towers into the +blue sky until its brilliancy almost dazzles one's +eyes. Though forty miles away, one who did not +know would estimate the distance at not more than +five, so clearly are all the details of the grand picture +shown. It is said that from the glaciers on this peak +come the streams whose waters give their peculiar +milky cast to Harrison Lake and Harrison river. +Near the base of Mount Douglass is an Indian village +of the same name, and the Hudson Bay Fur Company +formerly had a trading post in the neighborhood, +which they called Fort Douglass. This Indian +village is the home of my prospective guide, and +from it he has adopted his unpoetic cognomen.</p> + +<p>Half a mile to the right of where we entered the +lake, the famous hot springs, already mentioned, boil +out from under the foot of a mountain, and discharge +their steaming fluid into the lake. The curative +power of these waters has been known to the natives +for ages past, and the sick have come from all directions, +and from villages many miles away, to +bathe in the waters and be healed. All about the +<span class="pagenum">[79]</span> +place are remains of Indian encampments, medicine +lodges, etc. The tribes in this vicinity are greatly +exercised over the fact of the white man having +lately asserted ownership of their great sanitarium, +and having assumed its control. Mr. J. R. Brown +has erected over the springs a large bath-house, and +near that a commodious hotel. He has cut a road +through a pass in the mountains to Agassiz station, +on the Canadian Pacific Railway, five miles distant, +so that the springs may now be easily reached by +invalids wishing to test their curative properties. +Soon after my arrival at the springs, I climbed the +mountain to the east of the hotel, and passed the +time pleasantly, until sunset, viewing the beautiful +scenery in the neighborhood.</p> + +<p>On the following morning I took a boat and rowed +up the east shore of the lake, in hope of getting a shot +at a deer, but though I saw plenty of fresh signs all +along the shore no game was visible. I spent the +afternoon looking anxiously for my promised guide, +but he came not. I again amused myself, however, +taking views of the scenery, but found on developing +the negatives that I had not been eminently successful +with either Mount Douglass or Mount Chiam. +Snowy mountains are about the most difficult objects +in all nature to photograph, especially if you attempt +to include anything beside the snowy peaks in the +picture; for they are so intensely white, and the sky +or even clouds that form the background are so light +and afford so slight contrast, that it is next to impossible +to get good sharp pictures of them. The landscape +about the mountains is sure to offer some dark objects, +perhaps deep shadows, and even the mountain itself +<span class="pagenum">[80]</span> +nearly always has bare rocks and dark, gloomy cañons, +and to get these and the dazzling whiteness of the +snow and ice on the same plate is decidedly difficult. +Of course we see many fine photographs of snow-covered +mountains, but if taken with a clear sky or with +light clouds for background, there is generally more +or less retouching necessary, and more or less doctoring +in printing, with tissue paper, glass screens, etc., +in order to obtain the results we see in the prints. I +made some fair views of both these peaks, but not +such as an enthusiastic amateur might wish. Of the +lower mountains, where at that time there was no +snow, of the lake, the islands, etc., I got very satisfactory +pictures. I went up the road, toward the +railway station, a mile or more, where it passes +through one of those grand forests for which this +country is so famous, where—</p> + +<div class="inset20"> +<p>"Those green-robed senators of mighty woods<br /> +Dream, and so dream all night without a stir."</p> +</div> + +<p>There I made views of some of the giant cedars, the +dense moss-hung jungles, the great fir trees, etc. In +these dark, densely-shaded woods I had to take off +the flying shutter and make time exposures. I gave +three to five seconds to each plate. In the prints +the trees and other objects nearest to the lens are of +course over-exposed, but the details in the shadows +and objects in the extreme distance are clearly and +beautifully brought out. For these time exposures +I placed the camera on some convenient log, stump, +or stone, in lieu of a tripod. In two instances I seated +the rear end of the instrument on the ground, with +the lens bearing up through the tops of the trees. +The whitened trunk and broken, straggling arms of +<span class="pagenum">[81]</span> +one great old dead fir—one that has flourished in +this rich soil and drawn sustenance from the moist, +ozone-laden atmosphere of these mountains for hundreds +of years, but has lived out his time and is now +going the way of all things earthly—forms the subject +of one of the best and most interesting pictures +of the whole series. The tops of several other trees—birch, +maple, etc., that stood near the fir—are also +shown in the picture. It can best be seen and appreciated +by holding it above your head, looking up at +it, and imagining yourself there in the forest, looking +up through the tops of the giant trees into the +blue ethereal dome of heaven.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_081.jpg" alt="081" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[82]</span></p> + +<h2> +<a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_082_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_082_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_082_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">N</span> the morning I got up early to look for Douglass +Bill, thinking and hoping he might +have landed during the night, but no one +had seen him and there was no strange +canoe in the harbor. After breakfast, +in order to kill time, I climbed the +mountain east of the hotel to a height of +about a thousand feet. It is heavily +timbered, and I found plenty of fresh +deer-signs within plain sound of the +hammers wielded by the carpenters at work on the +hotel, but failed to get a shot. I returned at +eleven o'clock, but Bill had not yet shown up. +Three other Indians were there, however, with +three deer in their canoe, which they had killed +on the opposite side of the lake the day before. I +now concluded that Mr. Major's confidence in Bill +was misplaced; that he was not going to keep his +contract, and was, in short, as treacherous, as unreliable, +and as consummate a liar as other Indians; +so I entered into negotiations with these three Indians +to get one or two of them to go with me. But they +had planned a trip to New Westminster, to sell their +venison, and I could not induce any one of them to +go, though I offered big wages, and a premium on +each head of game I might kill, besides. They said +that if I wished they would take me to their village—which +<span class="pagenum">[83]</span> +is five miles down the river—and that there +were several good goat hunters there whom I could +get. I accepted their offer of transportation, stepped +into the canoe, and we pulled out. As we entered +the shoal water in the river I asked for a pole, and +impelled by it and the three paddles we sped down +the stream at a rapid rate.</p> + +<p>There was a cold, disagreeable rain falling and a +chilly north wind blowing. This storm had brought +clouds of ducks into the river, among them several +flocks of canvas backs. The Indians, who were using +smooth-bore muskets, killed several of these toothsome +fowls. One flock rose ahead of us and started +directly down the river, but by some kind of native +intuition the Indians seemed to know that they would +come back up the opposite shore. They dropped +their guns, caught up the paddles and plied them +with such force that every stroke fairly lifted the +light cedar canoe out of the water, and we shot across +the river with the speed of a deer. Sure enough, +after flying a hundred yards down stream the +ducks turned and, hugging the shore, undertook to +pass up the river on the other side, but we cut them +off, so that they had to pass over our heads. At +this juncture the two muskets carried by the two +young men cracked and three canvas backs dropped, +limp and lifeless, into the water within a few feet +of us.</p> + +<p>We arrived at the hut occupied by this family at +noon. It stands on the bank of the river, half a mile +above the village of Chehalis, and as we pulled up, +two old and two young squaws and nine small Indians, +some of them mere papooses in arms (but not +<span class="pagenum">[84]</span> +in long clothes—in fact, not in any clothes worth mentioning), +came swarming out to meet us. Their abode +was a shanty about twelve feet square, made by setting +four corner posts into the ground, nailing cross-ribs +on, and over these clapboards riven from the +native cedars, and the roof was of the same material. +The adult members of this social alliance had been +engaged in catching and drying salmon during the +recent run; the heads, entrails and backbones of which +had been dumped into the river at their very door. +There being no current near the shore they had sunk +in barely enough water to cover them, and lay there +rotting and poluting the water used by the family +for drinking and cooking. Cart-loads of this offal +were also lying about the dooryard, and had been +trampled into and mixed up with the mud until the +whole outfit stunk like a tanyard.</p> + +<p>Within was a picture of filth and squalor that +beggars description. The floor of the hut was of +mother earth. A couple of logs with two clapboards +laid across them formed the only seats. On one side +was a pile of brush, hay, and dirty, filthy blankets, +indiscriminately mixed, on which the entire three +families slept, presumably in the same fashion. Near +the centre of the hut a small fire struggled for existence, +and that portion of the smoke that was not +absorbed by the people, the drying fish and other +objects in the room, escaped through a hole in the +centre of the roof. The children, barefooted and half-naked, +came in out of the rain, mud, and fish carrion, +in which they had been tramping about, and sat or +lay on the ground about the fire, looking as happy +as a litter of pigs in a mud hole. On poles, attached +<span class="pagenum">[85]</span> +by cedar withes to the rafters, were hung several +hundred salmon, absorbing smoke, carbonic acid gas +from the lungs of the human beings beneath, and +steam from the cooking that was going on. It is +understood that after this process has been prolonged +for some weeks these once noble fishes will be fit for +the winter food of the Siwash.</p> + +<p>Some of the houses in Chehalis are neat frame +cottages; in fact, it is a better-built town, on the +whole, than the village of Harrison River already +described; but these better houses all stand back +about a quarter of a mile from the river, and the +inhabitants have left them and gone into the "fish-houses," +the clapboard structures, on the immediate +river bank. Some of these shanties are much larger +than the one mentioned above, and in some cases +four, five, or even six families hole up in one of +these filthy dens during the fish-curing season.</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact, there are salmon of one variety +or another in these larger rivers nearly all the year, +but sometimes the weather is too cold, too wet, or +otherwise too disagreable in winter for the noble red +man to fish with comfort, and hence all these preparations +for a rainy day. After the fishes are cured +they are hung up in big out-houses set on posts, or +in some cases built high up in the branches of trees, in +order to be entirely out of the reach of rats, minks, +or other vermin, and the members of the commune +draw from the stock at will. The coast Indians live +almost wholly on fish, and seem perfectly happy +without flesh, vegetables, or bread, if such be not at +hand, though they can eat plenty of all these when +set before them. If one of them kills a deer he seldom +<span class="pagenum">[86]</span> +or never eats more of it than the liver, heart, +lungs, etc. He sells the carcass, if within a three +days' voyage of a white man who will buy venison.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_086.jpg" alt="086" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">SALMON BOXES IN TREES.</p> + +<p>One of the young men already mentioned went with +me down to one of the big fish-houses and called out +Pean, a man about fifty years of age, who he said +was a good goat hunter and a good guide. They held a +hurried conversation in their native tongue, at the +<span class="pagenum">[87]</span> +close of which the young man said Pean would go +with me for two dollars a day. I asked Pean if he +could talk English, and he said "yes," but this +proved, in after experience, to be about the only +English word he could speak. He rushed into the +hut, and in about three or four minutes returned +with his gun, powder-horn, bullet-pouch, pipe, +and a small roll of blankets, and was ready for +a journey into the mountains of, he knew not how +many days. His canoe was on the river bank near +us, and as we were stepping into it I asked him a +few questions which he tried to answer in English, +but made a poor stagger at it, and slid off into Chinook.</p> + +<p>Just then another old Indian came up with a +canoe-load of wood. I asked him if he could speak +English—"wah-wah King George"; and he said +"Yes."</p> + +<p>I then told him I had hired this other man +to go hunting with me and asked him if he knew +him.</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes," he said; "me chief here. All dese +house my house. All dese people my people. No +other chief here." I said I was delighted to know +him, shook hands with him, gave him a cigar, and +inquired his name.</p> + +<p>"Captain George," he said; "me chief here."</p> + +<p>"Is he a good hunter?" pointing to Pean.</p> + +<p>"Yes, Pean good hunter; good man. He kill plenty +sheep, deer, bear." With this additional certificate of +efficiency and good character I felt more confidence +in Pean, and stepping into the canoe was once more +<i>en route</i> to the mountains. +<span class="pagenum">[88]</span></p> + +<p>Still, I felt some misgivings, for my past experience +with the fish eaters had taught me not to place +implicit faith in their statements or pretensions, and +the sequel will show how well grounded these fears +were.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_088.jpg" alt="088" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[89]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_035_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_1.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_035_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HE</span> +Flathead nation, to +which nearly all the Puget +Sound Indians belong, may +almost be termed amphibians; +for though they can, and do +in some cases, live inland exclusively, +they are never happy +when away from the water. They are +canoeists by birth and education. A coast +Indian is as helpless and miserable without +a canoe as a plains Indian without a horse, and +the Siwash (Chinook for coast Indian) is as expert in +the use of the canoe as the Sioux, Crow, or Arapahoe +in the use and control of his cayuse. Almost the sole +means of travel, of intercommunication among these +people, and between themselves and the whites, is +the canoe.</p> + +<p>There are very few horses owned in any of the +coast tribes, and these are rarely ridden. When a +Siwash attempts to ride a horse he climbs onto it +kicking and grunting with the effort, much as an +Alabama negro mounts his mule, and sits him about +as gracefully. But let the Siwash step into his +canoe, and he fears no rapid, whirlpool, nor stormy +billow. He faces the most perilous water and sends +<span class="pagenum">[91]</span> +his frail cedar shell into it with a skill and a consciousness +of mastery that would put to the blush any of +the prize winners in our Eastern canoe-club regattas. +The canoes are models of nautical architecture. +They are cut and carved from the cedar trees which +bounteous Nature, in wise provision for the wants of +Her children, has caused to grow so plentifully and +to such prodigious size in the Sound country. They +are of various sizes and lengths, owing to the uses +for which they are intended. If for spearing salmon +or for light traveling, they are cut from a tree +twenty to twenty-four inches in diameter, and are +not more than twelve to fifteen feet long. If for +attending nets and bringing in the catch, they are +generally longer, and if for freighting and long-distance +traveling, they are of immense size and capable +of carrying great burdens. A tree of the size wanted +is selected, perfectly sound and free from knots, and +a log of the desired length cut off. The log is hollowed, +carved out to the desired shape, then trimmed +and tapered outside until it is a mere shell, scarcely +more than an inch thick anywhere.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_090.jpg" alt="090" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">AN OCCIDENTAL GONDOLA.</p> + +<p>It is then filled with water, a fire is built near in +which rocks are heated and thrown into the canoe +until the water boils. This is continued until the +wood is thoroughly cooked and softened, when the +water is turned out, the canoe is spread at the +centre, braced out to nearly twice its natural width +or diameter, and left to dry. This gives it "sheer" +and enables it to ride a heavy sea like a lifeboat. +Handsomely carved figureheads are attached to +some of the large canoes, and the entire craft is +painted, striped, and decorated in gay colors. I +<span class="pagenum">[92]</span> +measured one of these cedar canoes that was thirty-four +feet long and five and a half feet beam, and was +told by its owner that he had carried in it four tons +of freight on one trip, and two cords of green wood +on another. It would carry fifty men comfortably +and safely. There are not many of the Indians that +can make the larger and better grade of canoes, and +the trade is one that but few master.</p> + +<p>There is one famous old canoe builder near Vancouver, +to whom Indians go from distances of a +hundred miles or more when they want an extra +fine, large, light canoe. For some specimens of his +handiwork he gets as high as $80 to $100. The Indians +throughout Washington Territory and British +Columbia do considerable freighting for whites, on +streams not navigable for steamers, and they take +freight up over some of the rapids where no white +man could run an empty canoe.</p> + +<p>Some of these Flatheads are industrious and are +employed by the whites in salmon canneries, lumbering +and logging operations, farming, etc. Steamboat +men employ them almost exclusively for deck +hands, and they make the best ones to be had in the +country; better than either whites or Chinamen. +They are excellent packers by education. In this +densely-timbered country horses can not, as a rule, +be used for packing, and the Indians, in going across +country where there is no watercourse, pack all +their plunder on their backs. Whites traveling in +the woods also depend on Indians to pack their luggage; +consequently it is not strange that the latter +become experts at the business, and it is this +schooling that makes them valuable as deck hands. +<span class="pagenum">[93]</span> +They are not large men, but are tough, sinewy, and +muscular. An average Siwash will pick up a barrel +of flour or pork, a case of dry goods, or other heavy +freight weighing three hundred pounds or more, roll +it onto his back, and walk up a gang-plank or a steep +river-bank as easily as a white man would with a +barrel of crackers.</p> + +<p>No work is too dirty or too hard for them. They +are obedient to orders and submissive to discipline, +but their weak point, like that of all Indians, is their +inordinate love of whisky. Quite frequently, after +working a few weeks or months, they quit and go +on a drunken debauch that ends only when their +money is gone. Their dress is much the same, in +general, as that of the whites in this region, with the +exception that the Indians wear moccasins when +hunting. This footgear is little in favor here with +white hunters, owing to there being so much rainfall, +and so much wading to do. Rubber boots are +indispensable for hunting in most seasons, and a rubber +coat should also be included in every hunter's +outfit. I found the Hannaford ventilated rubber +boot the most comfortable and perfect footgear I +have ever worn. You can scarcely walk a mile in +any direction in this country at any time of year, +on mountains or lowlands, without encountering +water. Moccasins soon become soaked, and are then +the most uncomfortable things imaginable. I asked +one of my guides why he did not wear rubber boots +instead of moccasins, and he replied:</p> + +<p>"O, I dunno. De moxicans cheaper, mebbe. I +mek him myself. Can't mek de boots."</p> + +<p>This is about the only use the Indians make of +<span class="pagenum">[94]</span> +buckskin. It is not popular with them as a material +for clothing, on account of the vast amount of rainy +weather.</p> + +<p>It has been said they make cloth from the wool +of the goat, but, so far as I could learn, they make +very little, if any of it, of late years. I saw some +blankets that Indians had woven from this wool, +but they were very coarse. They have no machinery +for spinning; the yarn is merely twisted by hand, and +is so coarse and loose that it would not hold together +a week if made into a garment and worn in the woods. +Of course, a fair article of yarn, and even cloth, may +be, and has been, made entirely by hand, but these +people have neither the skill, the taste, nor the +industry to enable them to do such work. A +coarse hair grows with the wool on the goat, and +the squaws do not even take the trouble to separate +it, but work both up together, making a very +uncouth-looking fabric, even if thick, warm, and +serviceable.</p> + +<p>As a class, these Indians appear to be strictly +honest, toward each other at least. They leave their +canoes, guns, game, or in fact, any kind of property, +anywhere they choose, without the slightest effort at +concealment, and always feel perfectly sure of finding +it on their return. About the only case of pilfering +I ever heard of, while among them (and I +took special pains to investigate) was when John +asked me for some fish-hooks, and said in explanation:</p> + +<p>"I had plenty hooks, but I reckon Seemo he steal +all my hooks."</p> + +<p>"Why, does Seymour steal?" I inquired. He +<span class="pagenum">[95]</span> +looked all around to see if Seymour was within hearing, +and not seeing him, replied:</p> + +<p>"You bet. He steal my hooks, too."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_095.jpg" alt="095" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A SIWASH AND HIS MORNING'S CATCH.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<p><span class="pagenum">[96]</span></p> +<img src="images/illo_096.jpg" alt="096" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">AN INDIAN SALMON FISHERY.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[97]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_082_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_082_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_082_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"> had left my bedding at the Hot Springs +Hotel, and returning to get it staid there +all night. Early next morning (Friday, +November 12) we crossed Harrison Lake, +in a drenching rain, to the foot of a high +mountain, about two miles from the +springs, on which Pean, Captain George, +and other Indians said there were plenty +of goats. We beached our canoe, and +made up packs for the climb up the +mountain. The outfit consisted of our guns, my +sleeping-bag, Pean's gun and blankets, a few sea +biscuits, a piece of bacon, and some salt.</p> + +<p>My sleeping-bag was wrapped up in a piece of +canvas, and when I handed it to Pean, he commenced +to unroll it to put his blankets in with it, but I +objected. Visions of the insects with which I knew +his bedding was inhabited rose up before me. I +thought of the rotary drill, key-hole saw, and suction +pump with which they are said to be armed, and +I did not want any of them in my bag. So I +unrolled the canvas only a part of its length, laid his +blankets in and rolled it up again, hoping the remaining +folds might prevent the vermin from finding +their way in, and my reckoning proved correct. +One of his blankets had been white in its day, but +had long since lost its grip on that color, and was +<span class="pagenum">[98]</span> +now about as pronounced a brunette as its owner. +The other blanket was gray, but even through this +sombre shade, as well as through the rank odor +it emitted, gave evidence that it had not been +washed for many years. Pean brought with him +a cotton bedspread that had also once been +white, but left this with the canoe. In my pack I +carried the grub, and an extra coat for use on the +mountain, where we expected to encounter colder +weather.</p> + +<p>We started up the mountain at ten o'clock in the +forenoon. For the first two miles we skirted its +base to the eastward, through dense timber, crossing +several deep, dark jungles and swamps. Then we +began the ascent proper, and as soon as we got up a +few hundred feet on the mountain side, we found +numerous fresh deer-signs. We halted to rest, when +Pean took from its case his gun, which up to this +time he had kept covered, and which I naturally +supposed to be a good, modern weapon. It proved, +however, an old smooth bore, muzzle-loading, +percussion-lock musket, of .65 calibre, with a +barrel about fifty inches long. He drew out the +wiping stick, on the end of which was a wormer, +pulled a wad of paper from the gun and poured a +charge of shot out into his hand. This he put carefully +into his shot-bag. Then he took from another +pouch a No. 1 buckshot, and dropped it into the +muzzle of his musket. It rolled down onto the +powder, when he again inserted the bunch of paper, +rammed it home with the rod, put on a cap, and was +loaded for bear, deer, or whatever else he might +<span class="pagenum">[99]</span> +encounter. He then replaced the musket in its sealskin +cover as carefully as if it had been a $300 +breech-loader.</p> + +<p>Nearly all these Indians use just such old muskets, +bought from the Hudson Bay Company, and +yet they keep them in covers made of the skin of +the seal, which they kill in the rivers hereabout, or +of deer or other animals. They take excellent care +of their guns in this respect, but I have never seen +one of them clean or oil his weapon, and several of +them told me they seldom do so.</p> + +<p>My Winchester express, with fancy stock, Lyman +sight, etc., was a curiosity to them. None of them +had ever seen anything like it, and one of them +asked me what kind of a rifle it was. When told it +was a Winchester, he said:</p> + +<p>"I didn't know Winchester so big like dat. +Didn't know he had stock like dat." He had only +seen the little .44 Winchester, with a plain stock, +and innocently supposed it was the only kind +made.</p> + +<p>Pean and I had a hard day's work toiling up the +mountain through fallen timber, over and around +great ledges of jutting rock, across deep, rugged +cañons and gulches, and through dense jungles of +underbrush. About two o'clock in the afternoon we +halted, lay down for a rest, and had been there but +a few minutes when I heard the sharp, familiar +chatter of the little pine squirrel. I looked around +quickly, expecting to see one within a few feet of +me, but instead saw Pean lying close to the ground, +beckoning to me and pointing excitedly up the game +trail in which we had been walking. Looking +through the thick, intervening brush, I saw two +<span class="pagenum">[100]</span> +deer, a buck and a doe, looking toward us. They +had not seen nor scented us, but had merely heard +the chatter of the little squirrel, as they supposed, +and, though apparently as completely deceived by it +as I had been, they had stopped to listen, as they do +at almost every sound they hear in the woods. But +there was no squirrel there. Pean had taken this +method of calling my attention, and had imitated +the cry of the familiar little cone-eater so perfectly +that even the deer had been deceived by it.</p> + +<p>I cautiously and slowly drew my rifle to my +shoulder, and taking aim at the breast of the buck, +fired. Both deer bounded away into thicker brush, +and were out of sight in an instant. Pean sprang +after them, and in a few minutes I heard the dull, +muffled report of his musket. He shouted to me, +and going to him I found the buck dead and the +Indian engaged in butchering it. My bullet had +gone a little farther to the left than I intended, +breaking its shoulder, and had passed out through +the ribs on the same side. The deer had fallen after +going but a few yards, but was not quite dead when +Pean came up and shot it through the head. We +took out the entrails, cut a choice roast of the meat +for our supper and breakfast, and hurried on our +way.</p> + +<p>We camped at four o'clock on a small bench of +the mountain, and you may rest assured, gentle +reader, that our conversation in front of the camp +fire that night was novel. Pean, you will remember, +could not speak half a dozen words of English. He +spoke entirely in Chinook, and I knew but a few +words of that jargon. I had a Chinook dictionary +<span class="pagenum">[101]</span> +with me, however, and by its aid was able to pick +out the few words necessary in what little talking I +had to do, and to translate enough of Pean's answers +to my questions to get along fairly well. The great +trouble with him seemed to be that he was wound +up to talk, and whenever I made a remark or asked +a question in his adopted language he turned loose, +and talked until I shut him off with "Halo kumtucks" +(I don't understand). No matter how often +I repeated this he seemed soon to forget it, and +would open on me again whenever he got a cue. He +was a fluent talker, and if I had only been well up +in the jargon, I could have got lots of pointers from +him.</p> + +<p>The deer of this region is the true black-tail (<i>Cervus +columbianus</i>), not the mule-deer (<i>Cervus macrotis</i>), +that is so often miscalled the black-tail. +The black-tail is smaller than the mule-deer, and its +ears, though not so large as those of the latter, are +larger than those of the Virginia deer (<i>Cervus virginianus</i>). +Its tail is white underneath, dark outside, +shading to black at the lower end, and while +longer than that of the mule-deer, is not so long as +that of the Virginia deer.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_101.jpg" alt="101" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[102]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_102_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_102_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_102_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HINOOK</span> +is a queer jargon. It is said +to have been manufactured many +years ago by an employé of the Hudson +Bay Fur Company, who taught the +principal chiefs of various Indian tribes to speak +it in order to facilitate traffic with them. From that +time it has grown and spread until almost every +Indian of the North Pacific Coast, and many inland +tribes of Washington, British Columbia, and Oregon +speak it. White men of all nations who live in this +country speak it, and even the almond-eyed Chinaman +learns it soon after locating here. In short, it +is the court language of the Northwest, as the sign +language is of the plains. It is made up from various +Indian tongues, with a few English, or rather +pigeon-English, French, and Spanish words intermixed. +There are only about 1,500 words in the +language and it is very easy to learn. Of course, it +is woefully lacking in strength and beauty. You +will often want to say something that can not be said +in Chinook, because there are no words in that +jargon with which to say it. But it is made to +answer the purposes of trade, travel, and barter, in +common forms. For instance:</p> + +<p>"Kah-tah si-ah ko-pa Frazer chuck?" would be, +"How far is it to the Frazer river?"</p> + +<p>"Yutes kut klat-a-wa la-pe-a," "Only a short +<span class="pagenum">[103]</span> +walk." If you wish to say good-morning or good-evening +to an Indian you say:</p> + +<p>"Kla-how-ya, six."</p> + +<p>"Chah-co yah-wa" is "Come here."</p> + +<p>"Mi-ka tik-eh mam-ook?" "Do you want to +work?"</p> + +<p>"Ik-ta mi-ka mam-ook?" "At what?"</p> + +<p>"Mam-ook stick." "Cut some wood."</p> + +<p>"Na-wit-ka." "Certainly."</p> + +<p>"Kon-si dat-la spose mi-ka mam-ook kon-a-way +o-koke stick?" "What do you want for cutting +that lot of wood?"</p> + +<p>"Ikt dol la." "One dollar."</p> + +<p>The numerals are ikt (one), mox (two), klone +(three), lock-it (four), kwin-num (five), tagh-kum +(six), sin-na mox (seven), sto te-kin (eight), twaist +(nine), tah-tlum (ten), tah-tlum pee-ikt (eleven), tah-tlum +pee-mox (twelve), mox-tah tlum (twenty), +klone tah-tlum (thirty), ikt tali-kamo-nux (one +hundred), tah-tlum to-ka mo-mik (one thousand), +etc. It is often difficult to get accurate information +from these Indians as to distances or time, as they +have little idea of English miles or of the measurements +of time, and very few of them own or know +how to read a watch or clock. Under Pean's tutelage +I learned rapidly, and was soon able to carry on +quite an interesting conversation by the aid of the +little dictionary.</p> + +<p>By the light of a rousing camp-fire I cut a large +quantity of cedar boughs and made for myself a +bed a foot deep. On this I spread my sleeping-bag, +crawled into it and slept the sleep of the weary hunter. +Pean cut only a handful of boughs, spread +<span class="pagenum">[104]</span> +them near the fire, threw his coat over them, and lay +down. Then he folded his two blankets and spread +them over him, mostly on the side away from the +fire, leaving that part of his body next to the fire +exposed so as to catch its heat direct. During the +night, whenever he turned over, he would shift his +blankets so as to keep them where most needed. At +frequent intervals he would get up and replenish +the fire from the large supply of dry wood we had +provided. The night was bitter cold, at this high +altitude, and snow fell at frequent intervals. A +raw wind blew, and the old man must have suffered +from the cold to which he exposed himself.</p> + +<p>There are few of these savages that understand +and appreciate fully the value of a good bed when +camping. In fact, many white hunters and mountaineers +go on long camping trips with insufficient +bedding, simply because they are too lazy to carry +enough to keep them comfortable. I would rather +get into a good warm, soft bed at night without my +supper, than eat a feast and then sleep on the hard +ground, without covering enough to keep me warm. +After a hard day's work a good bed is absolutely +necessary to prepare one for the labor and fatigue of +the following day.</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"In bed we laugh, in bed we cry,<br /> +And born in bed, in bed we die;<br /> +The near approach, a bed may show,<br /> +Of human bliss to human woe."</p> +</div> + +<p>Any ablebodied man may endure a few nights of +cold, comfortless sleep, but it will tell on him sooner +or later; while if he sleep comfortably and eat +<span class="pagenum">[105]</span> +heartily, he may endure an incredible amount of +labor and hardship of other kinds. You may tramp +all day with your feet wet, and all your clothing +wet, if need be, but be sure you crawl into a good, +warm, dry bed at night.</p> + +<p>Old Pean complained of feeling unwell during the +evening, and in the morning when we got up said +he was sick. I prepared a good breakfast, but he +could not, or at least would not, eat. Then he told +me that he had once fallen down a mountain; that +his breast-bone had been crushed in by striking on +a sharp rock, and that it always hurt him since +when doing any hard work. He said the climb up +the mountain with the pack was too hard for him +and he was played out, that he could go no +farther.</p> + +<p>Here was another bitter disappointment, as we were +yet two miles from the top of the mountain, and in +going that distance a perpendicular ascent of from +2,000 to 3,000 feet must be made. I deliberated, +therefore, as to whether I should go up the mountain +alone and let Pean go back, but decided it +would be useless. I could not carry more load than +my sleeping-bag, gun, etc., and therefore could +bring no game down with me if I killed it, not even +a head or skin. Beside, if he went back he would +take his canoe, and I would be left with no means +of crossing the lake. So the only thing to be done +was to pack up and retrace our steps. On our way +down we stopped and took the head and skin off of +the deer killed the day before, and I carried them +to the canoe. Arriving at the lake, we pulled again +for Chehalis in a cold, disagreeable rain. I stopped +<span class="pagenum">[106]</span> +at the hot springs on my way down, and took my +leave of my host, Mr. Brown, who had been so kind +to me, and who regretted my ill luck almost as +much as I did.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_106.jpg" alt="106" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[107]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="i107"> +<div id="i107_0"> </div> +<div id="i107_1"> </div> +<div id="i107_2"> </div> +<div id="i107_3"> </div> +<div id="i107_4"> </div> +<div id="i107_5"> </div> +<div id="i107_6"> </div> +<div id="i107_7"> </div> +<div id="i107_8"> </div> +<div id="i107_9"> </div> +<div id="i107_10"> </div> +<div id="i107_11"> </div> +<div id="i107_12"> </div> +<div id="i107_13"> </div> +<div id="i107_14"> </div> +<div id="i107_15"> </div> +<div id="i107_16"> </div> +<div id="i107_17"> </div> +<div id="i107_18"> </div> +<div id="i107_19"> </div> + + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">N</span> +our return to Chehalis—that town of +unsavory odors and salmon-drying, +salmon-smoking Siwashes—I at once +employed two other Indians, named John +and Seymour, and, on the following day we +started up Ski-ik-kul Creek, to a lake of the +same name, in which it heads ten miles back in +the mountains. The Indians claimed that goats, or +sheep, as they call them, were plentiful on the cliffs +surrounding this lake, and that we could kill plenty +of them from a raft while floating up and down +along the shores. Seymour claimed to have killed +twenty-three in March last, just after the winter +snows had gone off, and a party of seven Siwashes +from Chehalis had killed ten about two weeks previous +to the date of my visit.</p> + +<p>Such glowing accounts as these built up my hopes +again to such a height as to banish from my mind all +recollection of the bitter disappointment in which the +former expedition had ended, and, although the +rain continued to fall heavily at short intervals, so +that the underbrush reeked with dampness and +drenching showers fell from every bush we touched, +I trudged cheerily along regardless of all discomforts.</p> + +<p>The first two miles up the creek, we had a good, +open trail, but at the end of this we climbed a steep,<span class="pagenum">[108]</span> +rocky bluff, about 500 feet high, and made the greater +portion of the remaining distance at an average of +about this height above the stream. There was a +blind Indian trail all the way to the lake, but it led +over the roughest, most tortuous, outlandish country +that ever any fool of a goat hunter attempted to +traverse. There are marshes and morasses away up +among these mountains, where alders and water +beeches, manzanitas, and other shrubs grow so thick +that their branches intertwine to nearly their full +length. Many of these have fallen down in various +directions, and their trunks are as inextricably mixed +as their branches, forming altogether a labyrinthine +mass, through which it was with the utmost difficulty +we could walk at all.</p> +</div> + +<p>There were numberless little creeks coming down +from the mountain into the main stream, and each +had in time cut its deep, narrow gulch, or cañon, +lined on both sides with rough, shapeless masses of +rock, and all these we were obliged to cross. In +many cases, they were so close together that only a +sharp hog-back lay between them, and we merely +climbed out of one gulch 300 or 400 feet deep, to go +at once down into another still deeper, and so on. +Fire had run through a large tract of this country, +killing out all the large timber, and many trees have +since rotted away and fallen, while the blackened +and barkless trunks of others, with here and there a +craggy limb, still stand as mute monuments to +the glory of the forest before the dread element laid +it waste.</p> + +<p>We camped that night at the base of one of these +great dead firs around which lay a cord or more +<span class="pagenum">[109]</span> +of old dry bark that had fallen from it, and which, +with a few dry logs we gathered, furnished fuel for +a rousing, all-night fire. Within a few feet of our +camp, a clear, ice-cold little rivulet threaded its serpentine +way down among rocks and ferns, and made +sweet music to lull us to sleep. After supper, I +made for myself the usual bed of mountain feathers +(cedar boughs), on which to spread my sleeping-bag.</p> + +<p>This old companion of so many rough jaunts, over +plains and mountains, has become as necessary a +part of my outfit for such voyages as my rifle. +Whether it journey by day, on the hurricane deck of +a mule, in the hatchway of a canoe, on my shoulder +blades or those of a Siwash, it always rounds up at +night to house me against the bleak wind, the driving +snow, or pouring rain. I have learned to prize +it so highly that I can appreciate the sentiments of +the fallen monarch, Napoleon, on the lonely island +of St. Helena, when he wrote:</p> + +<p>"The bed has become a place of luxury to me. +I would not exchange it for all the thrones in the +world."</p> + +<p>These Indians, like Pean, and, in fact, all others +who have seen the bag, are greatly interested in it. +They had never seen anything like it, and watched +with undisguised interest the unfolding and preparing +of the article, and when I had crawled into it, +and stowed myself snugly away, they looked at each +other, grunted and uttered a few of their peculiar +guttural sounds, which I imagined would be, if +translated:</p> + +<p>"Well, I'll be doggoned if that ain't about the +sleekest trick I ever saw. Eh?"<span class="pagenum">[110]</span></p> + +<p>"You bet it's nice to sleep in, but heavy to carry."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_110.jpg" alt="110" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">DIAGRAM OF SLEEPING-BAG.</p> + +<p>By the way, some of my readers may never have +seen one of these valuable camp appendages, and a +description of it may interest them. The outer bag is +made of heavy, brown, waterproof canvas, six feet +long, three feet wide in the centre, tapered to two +feet at the head and sixteen inches at the foot. +Above the head of the bag proper, flaps project a +foot farther, with which the occupant's head may be +completely covered, if desired. These are provided +with buttons and button-holes, so that they may be +buttoned clear across, for stormy or very cold +weather. The bag is left open, from the head down +one edge, two feet, and a flap is provided to lap over +<span class="pagenum">[111]</span> +this opening. Buttons are sewed on the bag, and +there are button-holes in the flaps so it may also be +buttoned up tightly. Inside of this canvas bag is +another of the same size and shape, less the head +flaps. This is made of lamb skin with the wool on, +and is lined with ordinary sheeting, to keep the +wool from coming in direct contact with the person +or clothing. One or more pairs of blankets +may be folded and inserted in this, as may be +necessary, for any temperature in which it is to be +used.</p> + +<p>If the weather be warm, so that not all this covering +is needed over the sleeper, he may shift it to +suit the weather and his taste, crawling in on top of +as much of it as he may wish, and the less he has +over him the more he will have under him, and the +softer will be his bed. Beside being waterproof, the +canvas is windproof, and one can button himself up in +this house, leaving only an air-hole at the end of his +nose, and sleep as soundly, and almost as comfortably +in a snowdrift on the prairie as in a +tent or house. In short, he may be absolutely +at home, and comfortable, wherever night finds +him, and no matter what horrid nightmares he +may have, he can not roll out of bed or kick off the +covers.</p> + +<p>Nor will he catch a draft of cold air along the +north edge of his spine every time he turns over, as +he is liable to do when sleeping in blankets. Nor +will his feet crawl out from under the cover and +catch chilblains, as they are liable to do in the old-fashioned +way. In fact, this sleeping-bag is one of +the greatest luxuries I ever took into camp, and if +<span class="pagenum">[112]</span> +any brother sportsman who may read this wants one, +and can not find an architect in his neighborhood +capable of building one, let him communicate with +me and I will tell him where mine was made.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_112.jpg" alt="112" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[113]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_113_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_113_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_113_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_113_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">ONG</span> +after the Indians went to sleep I lay there, +looking into the fire and thinking. Many and +varied were the fancies that chased +each other through my restless brain—some +pleasant, some unpleasant. I pondered on +the novelty, even the danger, of my situation. I +was away up there in that wild, trackless, mountain +wilderness, alone, so far as any congenial companionship +was concerned. Yes, I was worse +than alone, for the moment I might close my eyes and +sleep I would be at the mercy of these two reckless +red men. True, they are not of a courageous, warlike +race, but what might they not do for the sake of +plunder? They could crush my skull at a blow and +conceal my body beyond all possibility of discovery; +or they could leave it and, saying I had killed myself +by a fall, reveal its resting place to anyone who +might care to go in search of me. I had some property +with me, especially my rifle, sleeping-bag, and a +small sum of money, that I knew they coveted, and +I reflected that they might already have concocted +some foul scheme for disposing of me and getting +possession of my effects.<span class="pagenum">[114]</span></p> + +<p>In their native tongue of strange, weird gutturals, +hisses, and aspirations, they had conversed all the +evening of—I knew not what. John had rather +an honest, frank face, that I thought bespoke a +good heart, but Seymour had a dark, repulsive +countenance that plainly indicated a treacherous +nature. From the first I had made up my mind +that he was a thief, if nothing worse. He pretended +not to be able to speak or understand English, +although I knew he could. John spoke our +tongue fairly, and through him all communication +with either or both was held. Should they contemplate +any violence I would welcome them both to an +encounter, if only I could have notice of it a second +in advance. Their two old smooth-bore muskets +would cut no figure against the deadly stream of fire +that my Winchester express could pour forth. But +I dreaded the treachery, the stealth, the silent midnight +assault that is a characteristic of their race. +Yet, on further consideration, I dismissed all such +forebodings as purely chimerical. These were civilized +Indians, living within the sound of the whistle +of a railroad engine, and would hardly be willing to +place themselves within the toils of the law, by the +commission of such a crime, even if they had the +courage or the desire to do it, and I hoped they had +neither.</p> + +<p>Then my fancies turned to the contemplation of +pleasanter themes. I thought of the dear little +black-eyed woman, whom I had parted with on board +the steamer nearly a week ago. She is homeward-bound +and must now be speeding over the Dakota or +Minnesota prairies, well on toward St. Paul. Will +<span class="pagenum">[115]</span> +she reach home in safety? God grant it—and that +in due time I may be permitted to join her there. +Then other familiar images passed and repassed my +mental ken. The kind acts of dear friends, the +hospitalities shown me by strangers and passing +acquaintances in distant lands and in years long +agone came trooping through my memory, and a feeling +of gratitude for those kindnesses supplanted for +the time that of solitude. Gradually and sweetly I +sank into a profound slumber and all was stillness +and oblivion.</p> + +<p>Several hours, perhaps, have passed, and I am +thirsty. I get up and start to the little brook for +water; to reach it a log, lying across a deep fissure +in the rocks, must be scaled. With no thought of +danger I essay the task by the dying fire's uncertain +light and that of the twinkling stars. I have +not counted on the heavy covering of frost that has +been deposited on the log since dark, and stepping +out upon the barkless part of the trunk, my moccasins +slip, and with a shriek and a wild but unsuccessful +grasp at an overhanging limb I fall twenty feet +and land on the mass of broken and jagged granite +beneath! The Indians, alarmed by my cries, spring +to my relief, carry me to the fire, give me stimulants, +bind up my broken arm, and do all in their power +to alleviate my sufferings.</p> + +<p>They are not the crafty villains and assassins that +my fancy had painted. They are kind, sympathetic +friends. I realize that my right collar-bone and three +ribs on the same side are broken, and when I remember +where I am, the deplorableness and utter helplessness +of my condition appal me.</p> +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<p><span class="pagenum">[116]</span></p> +<img src="images/illo_116.jpg" alt="116" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">EN ROUTE TO THE INDIAN VILLAGE.</p> + +<p>The long hours until daylight drag slowly by, and +at last, as the sun tips the distant mountain tops with +golden light, we start on our perilous and painful +journey to the Indian village and to the steamboat +landing. The two red men have rigged a litter from +poles and blankets, on which they carry me safely +to their homes, and thence in a canoe to the landing +below. How the long, tedious journey thence, by +steamer and rail, to my own home is accomplished; +how the weary days and nights of suffering and +delirium which I endure <i>en route</i> were passed, are +subjects too painful to dwell upon. I am finally +assisted from the sleeper at my destination. My wife, +whom the wire has informed of my misfortune and my +coming, is there. She greets me with that fervent +love, that intensity of pity and emotion that only a +<span class="pagenum">[117]</span> +wife can feel. Her lips move, but her tongue is paralyzed. +For the time she can not speak; the wells of +her grief have gone dry; she can not weep; she can +only act. I am taken to my home, and the suspense, +the anxiety, having been lived out, the climax +having been reached and passed I swoon away. Again +the surgeon appears to be racking me with pain in +an effort to set the broken ribs, and seems to be +making an incision in my side for that purpose, when +I awake.</p> + +<p>The stars shone brightly above me, the frost on +the leaves sparkled brightly in the fire-light. It took +me several minutes to realize that I had been dreaming. +I searched for the cause of the acute pain in +my side, and found it to be the sharp point of a rock +that my cedar boughs had not sufficiently covered +and which was trying to get in between two of my ribs. +I got up, removed it and slept better through the +remainder of the night.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_117.jpg" alt="117" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[118]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_118_0.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_118_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_118_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_118_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">KI-IK-KUL,</span> +or Chehalis Creek, as the +whites call it, is surely one of the most +beautiful streams in the whole Cascade +Range. Its size may be stated, approximately, +as two feet in depth by fifty +feet in width, at or near the mouth, but +its course is so crooked, so tortuous, +and its bed so broken and uneven that +the explorer will seldom find a reach +of it sufficiently quiet and undisturbed to afford +a measurement of this character. At one point +it is choked into a narrow gorge ten feet wide +and twice as deep, with a fall of ten feet in a +distance of thirty. Through this notch the stream +surges and swirls with the wild fury, the fearful +power, and the awe-inspiring grandeur of a tornado. +At another place it runs more placidly for a few +yards, as if to gather strength and courage for a +wild leap over a sheer wall of frowning rock into +a foaming pool thirty, forty, or fifty feet below. +At still another place it seems to carve its way, by +the sheer power of madness, through piles and +walls of broken and disordered quartz, granite, or +basalt, even as Cortes and his handful of Spanish +cavaliers hewed their way through the massed +legions of Aztecs at Tlascala.</p> + +<p>Farther up, or down, it is split into various +<span class="pagenum">[119]</span> +channels by great masses of upheaved rock, and +these miniature streams, after winding hither and +thither through deep, dark, narrow fissures for +perhaps one or two hundred yards, reunite to form +this headlong mountain torrent. Viewing these +scenes, one is forcibly reminded of the poet's words:</p> + +<div class="inset20"> +<p>"How the giant element,<br /> +From rock to rock, leaps with delirious bound."</p> +</div> + +<p>Series of cascades, a quarter to half a mile long, are +met with at frequent intervals, which rival in their +beauty and magnificence those of the Columbia or +the Upper Yellowstone. Whirlpools occur at the +foot of some of these, in which the clear, bright +green water boils, sparkles, and effervesces like vast +reservoirs of champagne. The moanings and roarings +emitted by this matchless stream in its mad +career may be heard in places half a mile. At +many points its banks rise almost perpendicularly +to heights of 300, 400, or 500 feet. You may stand +so nearly over the water that you can easily toss a +large rock into it, and yet you are far above the +tops of the massive firs and cedars that grow at the +water's edge. Looking down from these heights +you may see in the crystal fluid whole schools of +the lordly salmon plowing their way up against the +almost resistless fury of the current, leaping through +the foam, striking with stunning force against hidden +rocks, falling back half dead, and, drifting into some +clear pool below, recovering strength to renew the +hopeless assault.</p> + +<p>The time will come when an easy roadway, and +possibly an iron one, will be built up this grand +cañon, and thousands of tourists will annually stand +<span class="pagenum">[120]</span> +within its walls to gaze upon these magic pictures, +absorbed in their grandeur and romantic beauty. Nor +does the main stream afford the only objects of +beauty and interest here. It is a diamond set in a +cluster of diamonds, for many of the little brooks, +already mentioned as coming down the mountain +on either side, are only less attractive because +smaller. Many of them tumble from the tops of +rocky walls, and dance down among the branches of +evergreen trees, sparkling like ribbons of silver in +the rays of the noonday sun.</p> + +<p>Theodore Roosevelt, in his excellent work, "Hunting +Trips of a Ranchman;" says: "Thirst is largely +a matter of habit." So it may be, but I am sadly +addicted to the habit, and I found it one from which, +on this trip, I was able to extract a great deal of +comfort, for we crossed one or more of these little +brooks every hour, and I rarely passed one without +taking a copious draught of its icy fluid. The days, +were moderately warm, and the hard labor we performed, +walking and climbing, made these frequent +opportunities to quench thirst one of the most +pleasant features of the journey. I was frequently +reminded of Cole's beautiful tribute to the mountain +brook:</p> + +<div class="inset22"> +<p> +<span class="in3">"Sleeping in crystal wells,</span><br /> +<span class="in3">Leaping in shady dells,</span><br /> +<span class="in3">Or issuing clear from the womb of the mountain,</span><br /> +<span class="in3">Sky-mated, related, earth's holiest daughter;</span><br /> +<span class="in3">Not the hot kiss of wine,</span><br /> +Is half so divine as the sip of thy lip, inspiring cold water."</p> +</div> + +<p>We arrived at our destination, the foot of Ski-ik-kul +Lake (and the source of the creek up which we +had been traveling), at four o'clock in the afternoon +<span class="pagenum">[121]</span> +of the second day out. We made camp on the bank +of the creek, and John and I engaged in gathering +a supply of wood. After we had been thus occupied +for ten or fifteen minutes, I noticed that Seymour +was nowhere in sight, and asked John where +he was.</p> + +<p>"He try spear salmon."</p> + +<p>"What will he spear him with?" I said. "Sharp +stick?"</p> + +<p>"No. He bring spear in him pocket," said John.</p> + +<p>We were standing on the bank of the creek again, +and as he spoke there was a crashing in the brush +overhead, and an immense salmon, nearly three feet +long, landed on the ground between us. Seymour +had indeed brought a spear with him in his pocket. +It was made of a fence-nail and two pieces of goat +horn, with a strong cord about four feet long +attached. There was a sort of socket in the upper +end of it, and the points of the two pieces of horn +were formed into barbs. As soon as Seymour had +dropped his pack he had picked up a long, dry, +cedar pole, one end of which he had sharpened and +inserted between the barbs, fastening the string so +that when he should strike a fish the spear point +would pull off. With this simple weapon in hand +he had walked out on the vast body of driftwood +with which the creek is bridged for half a mile below +the lake, and peering down between the logs, had +found and killed the fish. We made a fire in the +hollow of a great cedar that stood at the water's +edge. The tree was green, but the fire soon ate a +large hole into the central cavity, and, by frequent +feeding with dry wood, we had a fire that +<span class="pagenum">[123]</span> +roared and crackled like a great furnace, all night. +It</p> + +<div class="inset16"> +<p>"Kindled the gummy bark of fir or pine,<br /> +And sent a comfortable heat from far,<br /> +Which might supply the sun."</p> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_122.jpg" alt="122" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">SUPPER FOR THREE-SAUMON RÔTI.</p> + +<p>Seymour cut off the salmon's head, split the body +down the back, and took out the spine. Then he +spread the fish out and put skewers through it to +hold it flat. He next cut a stick about four feet +long, split it half its length, tied a cedar withe +around to keep it from splitting further, and inserting +the fish in the aperture, tied another withe +around the upper end. He now stuck the other end +of the stick into the ground in front of the fire, and +our supper was under way.</p> + +<p>I have often been reduced to the necessity of eating +grub cooked by Indians, both squaws and men, +and can place my hand on my heart and say truthfully +I never hankered after Indian cookery. In fact, +I have always eaten it with a mental reservation, +and a quiet, perhaps unuttered protest, but I counted +the minutes while that fish cooked. I knew Seymour +was no more cleanly in his habits than his +kin—in fact, he would not have washed his hands +before commencing, nor the fish after removing its +entrails, had I not watched him and made him do so; +but even if he had not I should not have refused to +eat, for when a man has been climbing mountains +all day he can not afford to be too scrupulous in +regard to his food. When the fish was thoroughly +roasted on one side the other was turned to the fire, +and finally, when done to a turn, it was laid smoking +hot on a platter of cedar boughs which I had +<span class="pagenum">[124]</span> +prepared, and the savory odors it emitted would +have tempted the palate of an epicure. I took out +my hunting knife, and making a suggestive gesture +toward the smoking fish, asked John if I should cut +off a piece; for not withstanding my consuming hunger, +my native modesty still remained with me, and +I thus hinted for an invitation to help myself.</p> + +<p>"Yes," he said. "Cut off how much you can eat."</p> + +<p>You can rest assured I cut off a ration that would +have frightened a tramp. Good digestion waited on +appetite, and health on both. I ate with the hunger +born of the day's fatigue and the mountain atmosphere, +and the Indians followed suit, or rather led, and +in half an hour only the head and spine of that fifteen-pound +salmon remained, and they were not yet in an +edible condition. Near bedtime, however, they were +both spitted before the fire, and in the silent watches +of the night, as I awoke and looked out of my downy +bed, I saw those two simple-minded children of the +forest, sitting there picking the last remaining +morsels of flesh from those two pieces of what, in +any civilized camp or household, would have been +considered offal. But when a Siwash quits eating fish +it is generally because there is no more fish to eat. +After such a supper, charmed by such weird, novel +surroundings, lulled by the music of the rushing +waters, and warmed by a glowing camp-fire, I slept +that night with naught else to wish for, at peace with +all mankind. Even "mine enemy's dog, though he +had bit me, should have stood that night against my +fire."</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[125]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<div class="i125"> +<div id="i125_0"> </div> +<div id="i125_1"> </div> +<div id="i125_2"> </div> +<div id="i125_3"> </div> +<div id="i125_4"> </div> +<div id="i125_5"> </div> +<div id="i125_6"> </div> +<div id="i125_7"> </div> +<div id="i125_8"> </div> +<div id="i125_9"> </div> +<div id="i125_10"> </div> +<div id="i125_11"> </div> +<div id="i125_12"> </div> +<div id="i125_13"> </div> +<div id="i125_14"> </div> +<div id="i125_15"> </div> +<div id="i125_16"> </div> +<div id="i125_17"> </div> +<div id="i125_18"> </div> +<div id="i125_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">EFORE</span> +going to bed, Seymour cautioned +me through his interpreter, the faithful +John, against getting out too early +in the morning. He said the goats +did not commence to move +around until nine or ten o'clock, +and if we started out to hunt +before that time we were liable to +pass them asleep in their beds.</p> + +<p>But I read the hypocrite's meaning between +his words; he is a lazy loafer and loves to lie and +snooze in the morning. It was his own comfort, +more than our success in hunting, that he was concerned +about. Goats, as well as all other species of +large game, are on foot at daylight, whether they +have been out all night or not, and from that time +until an hour after sunrise, and again just before dark +in the evening, are the most favorable times to hunt. +The game is intent on feeding at these times and is +not so wary as at other times. I told Seymour we +would get up at four o'clock, get breakfast, and be +ready to move at daylight. And so we did.</p> + +<p>The night had been clear and cold; ice had formed +around the margin of the lake, and a hoar frost a +quarter of an inch deep covered the ground, the logs, +and rocks that were not sheltered by trees. Ski-ik-kul +or Willey's Lake, as it is termed by the whites, +<span class="pagenum">[126]</span> +is a beautiful little mountain tarn about a quarter of +a mile wide and four miles long. It is of glassy +transparency, of great depth, and abounds in mountain +trout, salmon, and salmon trout. It is walled +in by abrupt, rocky-faced mountains that rise many +hundreds of feet from the water's edge, and on +which a scanty growth of laurel, currant bushes, and +moss furnish food for the goats. Stunted cedars, +balsams, spruces, and pines also grow from small +fissures in the rocks that afford sufficient earth to +cover their roots.</p> + +<p>The craft on which we were to navigate this lake +was an interesting specimen of Indian nautical +architecture. It was a raft Seymour had made on a +former visit. The stringers were two large, dry, +cedar logs, one about sixteen feet long, the other +about twenty; these were held together by four +poles, or cross-ties, pinned to the logs, and a floor +composed of cedar clapboards was laid over all. +Pins of hard, dry birch, driven into the logs and tied +together at the tops, formed rowlocks, and the craft +was provided with four large paddles, or oars, hewed +out with an ax. In fact, that was the only tool used +in building the raft. The pins had been sharpened +to a flat point and driven firmly into sockets made +by striking the ax deeply into the log, and instead +of ropes, cedar withes were used for lashing. These +had been roasted in the fire until tough and flexible, +and when thus treated they formed a good substitute +for the white sailor's marline or the cow-boy's picket +rope.</p> +</div> + +<img src="images/s_illo_127_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_127_1.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> + +<p>We boarded this lubberly old hulk and pulled out +up the north shore of the lake just as the morning sun +<span class="pagenum">[127]</span> +gave the first +golden tints to the +mountain tops. Our +progress was slow +despite our united +strength applied to +the oars, but it gave +us more time to scan +the mountain sides +for game. I did not +find it so plentiful +as I had been promised, +for I had been +told by the Indians +that we should see +a dozen goats in +<span class="pagenum">[128]</span> +the first hour, but we had been out more than that +length of time before we saw any. Finally, however, +after we had gone a mile or more up the lake +shore, I saw a large buck goat browsing among the +crags about four hundred feet above us. He had not +seen us, and dropping the oar I caught up my rifle. +The men backed water, and as the raft came to a +standstill, I sent a bullet into him. He sprang +forward, lost his footing, came bounding and crashing +to the foot of the mountain, and stopped, stone +dead, in the brush at the water's edge not more than +twenty feet from the raft. We pushed ashore and +took him on board, when I found, to my disappointment, +that both horns had been broken off in the fall, +so that his head was worthless for mounting.</p> + +<p>We cruised clear around the lake that day and +could not find another goat. In the afternoon it +clouded up and set in to rain heavily again in the +cañon, while snow fell on the mountains a few hundred +feet above us. The next morning I went up a +narrow cañon to the north, and ascending a high +peak hunted until nearly noon, when I found two +more goats, a female and her kid (nearly full grown), +both of which I killed, and taking the skins and one +ham of the kid, I returned to camp. It continued +to rain at frequent intervals, which robbed camp life +and hunting of much of their charm, so I decided +to start for home the following morning. In the +afternoon I rigged a hook and line, cut an alder pole, +and caught five fine trout, the largest seventeen and +a half inches long. Seymour speared three more +salmon and roasted one of them, so that we had +another feast of fish that night. We also roasted +<span class="pagenum">[129]</span> +a leg of goat for use on our way home, and +spent the evening cleaning and drying the three +skins as best we could by the camp-fire, to lighten +their weight as much as possible.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, I questioned John at considerable +length regarding the nature of his language, but +could get little information, as he seemed unable to +convey his ideas on the subject in our tongue. The +language of the Skowlitz tribe, to which he and Seymour +belong, is a strange medley of gutturals, aspirates, +coughs, sneezes, throat scrapings, and a few +words. I said:</p> + +<p>"Your language don't seem to have as many +words as ours."</p> + +<p>"No; English too much. Make awful tired learn +him."</p> + +<p>"Where did you learn it?"</p> + +<p>"O, I work in pack train for Hudson Bay one +year, and work on boat one year."</p> + +<p>"Where did the boat run?"</p> + +<p>"She run nort from Victoria," he said.</p> + +<p>"Where to, Alaska?"</p> + +<p>"O, I dunno."</p> + +<p>"How far north?"</p> + +<p>"O, I dunno. Take seven day. We go to de +mout of de river."</p> + +<p>"What river? What was the name of the town?"</p> + +<p>"O, I dunno know what you call 'em."</p> + +<p>And thus I learned, by continued questioning, +that he did not know or remember the English +names of the places he had visited, but that they +were probably in Alaska. He always appealed to +Seymour to reply to any of my questions that he +<span class="pagenum">[130]</span> +could not himself answer, and a question or remark +that in our tongue had taken a dozen words to +express he would repeat in a cough, a throat-clearing +sound, and a grunt or two. Seymour's answer would +be returned in a half sneeze, a lisp, a suppressed +whistle, a slight groan, and an upturning of the eye. +Then John would look thoughtful while framing +the answer into his pigin English, and it would +come back, for instance, something like this:</p> + +<p>"Seymo say he tink we ketch plenty sheep up dat +big mountain, on de top." Or, "He say he tink +maybe we get plenty grouse down de creek. To-morrow +we don't need carry meat," etc. John +seemed to regard Seymour as a perfect walking +cyclopedia of knowledge, and, in fact, he was well +informed on woodcraft, the habits of birds and +animals, Indian lore, and other matters pertaining to +the country in which he lived, but outside of these +limits he knew much less than John.</p> + +<p>I was disgusted with his pretended inability to +speak or understand English, for on one of my +former visits to the village I had heard him speak +it, and he did it much better than John could. +Beside, Pean had told me that Seymour had +attended school at the mission on the Frazer river, +and could even read and write, but now that he had +an interpreter he considered it smart, just as a great +many Indians do, to affect an utter ignorance of our +language. I asked him why he did not talk; told +him I knew he could talk, and reminded him that I +had heard him speak good English; that I knew he +had been to school, etc. He simply shook his head +and grunted. Then I told him he was a boiled-down +<span class="pagenum">[131]</span> +fool to act thus, and that if he really wanted to +appear smarter even than his fellows, the best way +to do it was to make use of the education he had +whenever he could make himself more useful and +agreeable by so doing. I saw by the way he changed +countenance that he understood every word I said, +though he still remained obstinate. On several +occasions, however, I suddenly fired some short, +sharp question at him when he was not expecting it, +and before stopping to think he would answer in +good English.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_131.jpg" alt="131" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[132]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<img src="images/s_illo_075_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitfull" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_075_6.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">FTER</span> +making a hearty breakfast on +Rocky Mountain kid, salmon, and sea +biscuits, we began our return journey +down the creek in a drizzling rain. +Our burdens were increased by the +weight of the three goat skins, and +the walking was rendered still +more precarious than before by +the logs, grass, soil, pine needles, +and everything else having become +so thoroughly watersoaked. If we +had had hard climbing up the steep pitches on our +outbound cruise, we had it still harder now. We +could not stick in our toe nails as well now as +before, and even if we stuck in our heels going +down a hill, they would not stay stuck any better +than a second-hand postage-stamp. I remembered +one hill, or cañon wall, that in the ascent +made us a great deal of hard work, and much +perturbation of spirit, because it was steep, +rocky, and had very few bushes on it that we +could use as derricks by which to raise ourselves. +I dreaded the descent of this hill, now that the +rocks were wet, but we made it safely. Not so, +however, the next one we attempted; it was not so +rocky as the other, and had a goodly bed of blue +clay, with a shallow covering of vegetable mold for +<span class="pagenum">[133]</span> +a surface, with a little grass and a few weeds. It +was very steep, I think about what an architect +would call a three-quarter pitch, but we essayed it +boldly and fearlessly. Seymour was in the lead, +his faithful partisan, John, followed, and I constituted +the tail end of the procession. We had just +got well over the brow, when the end of a dry hemlock +stick caught in the mansard roof of my left foot; +the other end was fast in the ground, and, though I +tried to free myself, both ends stuck; the stick +played a lone hand, but it raised me clear out in +spite of my struggles. I uttered a mournful groan +as I saw myself going, but was as helpless as a tenderfoot +on a bucking cayuse. My foot was lifted +till my heel punched the small of my back, and my +other foot slid out from under me; I spread out like +a step ladder, and clawed the air for succor, but +there was not a bush or branch within reach. I think +I went ten feet before I touched the earth again, and +then I landed head first among John's legs. He sat +down on the back of my neck like a trip-hammer, +and we both assaulted Seymour in the rear with +such violence as to knock him clear out. For a few +seconds we were the worst mixed up community that +ever lived, I reckon. Arms, legs, guns, hats, packs, +and human forms were mingled in one writhing, +squirming, surging mass, and groans, shouts, and +imprecations, in English, Chinook, and Scowlitz, rent +the air. Every hand was grabbing for something to +stop its owner, but there were no friendly stoppers +within reach; if one caught a weed, or a stunted +juniper, it faded away from his herculean grasp like +dry grass before a prairie fire. I seemed to have the +<span class="pagenum">[135]</span> +highest initial velocity of any member of the expedition, +and, though in the rear at the start, I was a +full length ahead at the finish. We finally all +brought up in a confused mass at the foot of the hill, +and it took some time for each man to extricate himself +from the pile, and reclaim his property from the +wreck. Strange as it may seem, however, but little +damage was done. There was a skinned nose, a +bruised knee or two, a sprained wrist, and everybody +was painted with mud. All were, however, +able to travel, and after that, when going down steep +hills, the Siwashes kept looking back to see if I +were coming.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_134.jpg" alt="134" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">TRYING TO GET UP.</p> + +<p>We performed several dangerous feats that day +and the next, walking along smooth, barkless logs, +that lay across some of the deep gorges; in places +we were thirty feet or more above the ground, or +rather rocks, where a slip would have resulted in +instant death. My hair frequently stood on end, what +little I have left, but John and Seymour always went +safely across and I could not afford to be outdone in +courage by these miserable, fish-eating Siwashes, so +I followed wherever they led. We read that the +wicked stand on slippery places, but I can see these +wicked people, and go them about ten better, for I +have stood, and even walked, on many of these wet +logs, and they are about the all-firedest slipperyest +things extant, and yet I have not fallen off. I fell +only that once, when I got my foot in the trap, and +that would have downed a wooden man. Just before +going into camp that night, John shot a grouse, +but we were all too tired and hungry to cook it then, +and made our meal on cold kid, fish, and biscuits. +<span class="pagenum">[137]</span> +After supper, however, John dressed the bird and +laid it aside for breakfast, saying we would each +have a piece of it then. The rain ceased falling at +dark, and the stars came out, which greatly revived +our drooping spirits. We gathered large quantities +of dry wood and bark, so we were able to keep a +good fire all night. I drew from a half-rotten log, a +flat, slab-like piece of pine, which at first I failed to +recognize. John saw it and said:</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_136.jpg" alt="136" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">TRYING TO GET DOWN.</p> + +<p>"Good. Dat's beech."</p> + +<p>"Beech," I said. "Why, there's no beech in this +country."</p> + +<p>"No, beech wood, make good fire, good kindle, +good what you call him? Good torch."</p> + +<p>"Oh," I said, "pitch pine, eh?"</p> + +<p>"Yas, beech pine." And this was as near as he +could get to pitch.</p> + +<p>About two o'clock in the morning, it commenced +to rain heavily again, and the poor Indians were soon +in a pitable condition, with their blankets and clothing +wet through. They sat up the remainder of the +night, feeding the fire to keep it alive and themselves +warm, for they had neither canvas or rubber +coats, or any other kind of waterproof clothing. +They put up some of the longer pieces of the bark we +had gathered for fuel, and made a passable shelter, +but it was so small, and leaked so badly, that it +was far from comfortable. I pitied the poor fellows, +but had nothing I could give or even share +with them for shelter. I got up at five o'clock, and +we commenced preparations for breakfast. I told +John he had better cook the grouse, but he shook +his head, and said sadly: +<span class="pagenum">[138]</span></p> + +<p>"Seymo, he spile de grouse."</p> + +<p>"How did he do that?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"He say put him on stick by fire to cook in de +night. Then he go to sleep and stick burn off. +Grouse fall in de fire and burn."</p> + +<p>"That's too thin," I said. "Seymour cooked +that grouse and ate it while you and I were asleep."</p> + +<p>Seymour glared at me, but had not the courage to +resent or deny the charge. An Indian does not let +sleep interfere with his appetite; he eats whatever +there is first, and then sleeps. I divided the last of +the bacon and biscuits equally between us, and with +a remnant of cold broiled salmon, we eked out a +scant breakfast on which to begin a day's work. +John was clawing some white greasy substance from +a tin can with his fingers, and spreading it on his +biscuits with the same tools. He passed the can to +me, and said:</p> + +<p>"Have butta?"</p> + +<p>"No, thanks," I answered; "I seldom eat butter +in camp."</p> + +<p>"I like him all time," he replied; "I never git +widout butta for brade at home." This by way of +informing me that he knew what good living was, +and practiced it at home. It rained heavily all day, +and our tramp through the jungle was most dreary +and disagreeable.</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"The day was dark, and cold, and dreary;<br /> +It rained, and the wind was never weary."</p> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_139.jpg" alt="139" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption"><i>EN FAMILLE</i></p> + +<p>About three o'clock in the afternoon, we sat down +to rest on the bank of the creek. We had been there +but a few minutes, when a good sized black bear +came shambling along up the bank of the creek, +<span class="pagenum">[139]</span> +looking for salmon. The Indians saw him when +a hundred yards or more away, and flattened themselves +out on the ground to await his nearer +approach. I raised my rifle to my shoulder, but they +both motioned me to wait, that he was yet too far +away. I disregarded their injunction, however, and +promptly landed an express bullet in the bear's +breast. He reared, uttered a smothered groan, +turned, made one jump, and fell dead. Now arose +the question of saving his skin; it was late, and we +were yet three miles from the Indian village; to skin +<span class="pagenum">[140]</span> +the bear then meant to camp there for the night, and +as the rain still came down in a steady, heavy sheet, I +at once decided that I would not stay out there +another night for the best bear skin in the country. +Seymour and John held a short consultation, and +then John said they would come back and get the skin +next day, and take it in lieu of the money I owed them +for their services. We struck a bargain in about a +minute, and hurried on, arriving at the village just as +it grew dark. My rubber coat and high rubber boots +had kept me comparatively dry, but the poor Indians +were wet to the skin.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_140.jpg" alt="140" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[141]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<div class="i107"> +<div id="i107b_0"> </div> +<div id="i107b_1"> </div> +<div id="i107b_2"> </div> +<div id="i107b_3"> </div> +<div id="i107b_4"> </div> +<div id="i107b_5"> </div> +<div id="i107b_6"> </div> +<div id="i107b_7"> </div> +<div id="i107b_8"> </div> +<div id="i107b_9"> </div> +<div id="i107b_10"> </div> +<div id="i107b_11"> </div> +<div id="i107b_12"> </div> +<div id="i107b_13"> </div> +<div id="i107b_14"> </div> +<div id="i107b_15"> </div> +<div id="i107b_16"> </div> +<div id="i107b_17"> </div> +<div id="i107b_18"> </div> +<div id="i107b_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">N</span> +arriving at Chehalis John kindly +invited me to stop over night with him, +but I declined with thanks. I went into +his house, however, to wait while he got +ready to take me down to Barker's. It +was the same type of home that nearly +all these Indians have—a large clapboard +building about eight feet high, with smoked +salmon hung everywhere and a fire in the centre +of the room, which, by the way, was more of a +smoke than fire, curing the winter provender. A +pile of wood lay in one corner of the room, some +empty barrels in another, fish-nets were hung in still +another, and the family lived, principally, in the +fourth. John lives with his father-in-law, mother-in-law, +two brothers-in-law, one sister-in-law, his wife +and three papooses. Blankets, pots, tinware and +grub of various kinds were piled up promiscuously in +this living corner, and the little undressed kids hovered +and shivered around the dull fire, suffering from +the cold. We were soon in the canoe again, <i>en route</i> +to the steamboat landing, where we arrived soon after +dark. I regretted to part with John, for I had found +him a good, faithful servant and staunch friend. I +was glad to get rid of Seymour, however, for I had +learned that he was a contemptible sneak, and told +him so in as many words.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[142]</span><i>En route</i> home I had about two hours to wait at +Port Moody for the boat. There were great numbers +of grebes and ducks in the bay, and I asked the dock +foreman if there was any rule against shooting there. +He said he guessed not; he had never seen anyone +shooting there, but he guessed there wouldn't be any +objection. I got out my rifle and two boxes of cartridges +and opened on the birds. The ducks left at +once, but the grebes sought safety in diving, and as +soon as the fusillade began a number of gulls came +hovering around, apparently to learn the cause of +the racket. I had fine sport between the two, and a +large audience to enjoy it with me. In ten minutes +from the time I commenced shooting all the clerks +in the dock office, all the freight hustlers in the +warehouse, all the railroad section men, the ticket-agent +and baggage-master, numbering at least +twenty men in the aggregate, were clustered around +me, and their comments on my rifle and shooting +were extremely amusing. Not a man in the party +had ever before seen a Winchester express, and the +racket it made, the way in which the balls plowed +up the water, and the way the birds, when hit, vanished +into thin air and a few feathers, were mysteries +far beyond their power to solve. At the first lull +in the firing half a dozen of them rushed up and +wanted to examine the rifle, the fancy finish and +combination sights of which were as profoundly +strange to them as to the benighted Indians. They +soon handed it back to me, however, with the request +to resume hostilities against the birds; they preferred +to see the old thing work rather than to handle +it. The gulls were soaring in close, and six shots, +<span class="pagenum">[143]</span> +rapidly delivered, dropped three of them into the +water, mutilated beyond recognition. This was +the climax; the idea of killing birds on the wing, +with a rifle, was something these men had never +before heard of, and two or three examined my cartridges +to see if they were not loaded with shot, +instead of bullets. When they found this suspicion +was groundless they were beside themselves with +wonder and admiration of the strange arm. As a +matter of fact, it required no particular skill to kill +the gulls on the wing, for they were the large gray +variety, and frequently came within twenty or thirty +feet of me, so that anyone who could kill them with +a shotgun could do so with a rifle.</p> +</div> + +<p>Finally the steamer came in and I went aboard. +The train arrived soon after and several of its passengers +boarded the boat. The gulls were now hovering +about the steamer, picking up whatever particles +of food were thrown overboard from the cook-room. +One old Irishman, who had come in on the train +from the interior wilds, walked out on the quarter +deck and looking at them intently for a few minutes, +turned to me and inquired:</p> + +<p>"Phwat kind of burds is thim—geese?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," I said, "thim's geese, I reckon."</p> + +<p>"Well, be gorry, if I had a gun here I'd shoot +some o'thim"; and he went and told his companions +"there was a flock of the tamest wild geese out thare +ye iver sawed."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_144.jpg" alt="144" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A SNAP SHOT WITH A DETECTIVE CAMERA.</p> + +<p>The return journey to Portland was without incident. +There I boarded the steamer and spent +another delightful day on the broad bosom of the +Columbia river, winding up among the grand basaltic +<span class="pagenum">[145]</span> +cliffs and towering mountain peaks of the Cascade +Range. Again the little camera came into requisition, +and though the day was cloudy and blusterous, +though snow fell at frequent intervals, and though +the steamer trembled like a reed shaken by the wind, +I made a dozen or more exposures on the most interesting +and beautiful subjects as we passed them, and +to my surprise many came out good pictures. Most +of them lack detail in the deeper shadows, but the +results altogether show that had the day been clear +and bright all would have been perfect. In short, it +is possible with this dry-plate process to make good +pictures from a moving steamboat, or even from a +railway train going at a high rate of speed. I made +three pictures from a Northern Pacific train, coming +through the Bad Lands, when running twenty-five +miles an hour, and though slightly blurred in the +near foreground, the buttes and bluffs, a hundred +yards and further away, are as sharp as if I had been +standing on the ground and the camera on a tripod; +and a snap shot at a prairie-dog town—just as the +train slowed on a heavy grade—shows several of the +little rodents in various poses, some of them apparently +trying to look pretty while having their "pictures +took."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_145.jpg" alt="145" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_0.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146right_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146right_1.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_2.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146right_2.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_3.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_4.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_5.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_6.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_146left_7.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> + +<br /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[146]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<p class="chapter"> +stopped off at +Spokane Falls, +on my way +home, for a few +days' deer hunting, +and though +that region be not exactly in the Cascades, +it is so near that a few points in +relation to the sport there may be +admissible in connection with the +foregoing narrative. I had +advised my good friend, Dr. +C. S. Penfield, of my coming, +and he had kindly +planned for me a hunting +trip. On the morning +after my arrival +his brother-in-law, Mr. +T. E. Jefferson, took +me up behind a pair of +good roadsters and +drove to Johnston's +ranch, eighteen miles +from the falls, and near +the foot of Mount Carleton, +where we hoped to find +plenty of deer. We hunted +<span class="pagenum">[147]</span> +there two days, and though we found signs reasonably +plentiful and saw three or four deer we were +unable to kill any. Mr. Jefferson burned some +powder after a buck and a doe the first morning +after our arrival, but it was his first experience in +deer hunting, so it is not at +all strange that the game +should have escaped. Mr. +Jefferson was compelled to +return home at that time on account of a business +engagement, but Mr. Johnston, with characteristic +Western hospitality and kindness, said I must +not leave without a shot, and so hooked up his +team and drove me twenty-five miles farther +into the mountains, to a place where he said we +would surely find plenty of game. On the way +in we picked up old Billy Cowgill, a famous deer +hunter in this region, and took him along as guide. +<span class="pagenum">[148]</span> +We stopped at Brooks' stage ranch, on the Colville +road to rest the team, and the proprietor gave us an +amusing account of some experiments he had been +making in shooting buckshot from a muzzle-loading +shotgun. He had made some little bags of buckskin, +just large enough to hold twelve No. 2 buckshot, +and after filling them had sewed up the ends. +He shot a few of them at a tree sixty yards away, +but they failed to spread and all went into one hole. +Then he tried leaving the front end of the bag open, +and still they acted as a solid ball; so he had to abandon +the scheme, and loaded the charge loose, as of old. +He concluded, however, not to fire this last load at +the target, and hung the gun up in its usual place. +A few days later he heard the dog barking in the +woods a short distance from the house, and supposed +it had treed a porcupine. Mr. Brooks' brother, who +was visiting at the time, took the gun and went out +to kill the game, whatever it might be. On reaching +the place, he found a ruffed grouse sitting in a tree, +at which he fired. The ranchman said he heard the +report, and his brother soon came back, carrying a +badly-mutilated bird; he threw it into the kitchen, +and put the gun away; then he sat down, looked +thoughtful, and kept silent for a long time. Finally +he blurted out:</p> + +<img src="images/s_illo_147_0.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_147_1.jpg" alt="" class="split" /> +<p class="split" style="font-weight:bold; width:400px; text-indent:100px"> +THE STAGE RANCH</p> + +<p>"Say, Tom; that gun got away from me."</p> + +<p>"How was that?" queried the ranchman.</p> + +<p>"I don't know; but I shot pretty near straight up +at the grouse, and somehow the gun slipped off my +shoulder and done this." And opening his coat he +showed his vest, one side of which was split from +top to bottom; he then took out a handful of his +<span class="pagenum">[149]</span> +watch and held it up—one case was torn off, the +crystal smashed, the dial caved in, and the running +gear all mixed up. The ranchman said he guessed +he had put one of the buckskin bags of shot into +that barrel, and forgetting that fact, had added the +loose charge. He said he reckoned twenty-four No. +2 buckshot made too heavy a load for an eight-pound +gun.</p> + +<p>We reached "Peavine Jimmy's" mining cabin, +which was to be our camp, at three o'clock in the +afternoon, and busied ourselves till dark in the usual +duties of cooking, eating, and gathering wood. Old +Billy proved a very interesting character; he is a +simple, quiet, honest, unpretentious old man, and +unlike most backwoodsmen, a veritable coward. He +has the rare good sense, however, to admit it frankly, +and thus disarms criticism. In fact, his frequent +admission of this weakness is amusing. He says +that for fear of getting lost he does not like to go off +a trail when hunting, unless there is snow on the +ground, so that he can track himself back into camp. +He rides an old buckskin pony that is as modest and +gentle as its master. Billy says he often gets lost +when he does venture away from the trail, but in +such cases he just gives old Buck the rein, hits him a +slap, and tells him to go to camp and he soon gets +there. He told us a bear story that night, worthy of +repetition. Something was said that reminded him +of it, and he mentioned it, but added, modestly, +that he didn't know as we cared for any bear +stories. But we said we were very fond of them, +and urged the recital.</p> + +<p>"Well, then," he said, "if you will wait a minute,<span class="pagenum">[150]</span> +I'll take a drink of water first and then I'll tell it to +you," and he laughed a kind of boyish titter, and +began:</p> + +<p>"Well, me and three other fellers was up north +in the Colville country, huntin', and all the other +fellows was crazy to kill a bear. I didn't want to +kill no bear, and didn't expect to. I'm as 'feard as +death of a bear, and hain't no use for 'em. All I +wanted to kill was a deer. The other fellers, they +wanted to kill some deer, too, but they wanted bear +the worst. So one mornin' we all started out, and +the other fellers they took the best huntin' ground, +and said I'd better go down along the creek and see +if I couldn't kill some grouse, for they didn't believe +I could kill any thing bigger'n that; and I said, all +right, and started off down the creek. Purty soon I +come to an old mill that wasn't runnin' then. And +when I got purty near to the mill I set down on a +log, for I didn't think it was worth while to go any +furder, for I didn't think I would find any game +down the creek, and I didn't care much whether I +did or not. Well, I heard a kind of a racket in the +mill, and durned if there wasn't a big black bear +right in the mill. And I watched him a little bit, +and he started out towards me. And I said to myself, +says I, 'Now Billy, here's your chance to kill +a bear.'</p> + +<p>"I hadn't never killed no bear before, nor never +seed one before, and durned if I wasn't skeered +nearly to death. But I thought there wasn't no use +of runnin', for I knowed he could run faster'n I +could, so I took out my knife and commenced cuttin' +down the brush in front of me, for I wanted to +<span class="pagenum">[151]</span> +make a shure shot if I did shoot, if I could. And +the bear, he come out of the mill and rared up, and +put his paws on a log and looked at me, and I +said to myself, says I, 'Now Billy, this is your +time to shoot'; but I wasn't ready to shoot yit. They +was one more bush I wanted to cut out of the way +before I shot, so I cut if off and laid down my knife, +and then I took up my gun and tried to take aim at +his breast, but doggoned if I didn't shake so I +couldn't see the sights at all. And I thought one +time I wouldn't shoot, and then I knowed the other +fellers would laugh at me if I told 'em I seed a bear +and didn't shoot at him, and besides I was afraid +some of 'em was up on the hillside lookin' at me +then. So I just said to myself, says I, 'Now Billy, +you're goin' to get eat up if you don't kill him, but +you might as well be eat up as to be laughed at.' +So I jist took the best aim I could for shakin', an' +shet both eyes an' pulled.</p> + +<p>"Well, I think the bear must a begin to git down +jist as I pulled, for I tore his lower jaw off and shot +a big hole through one side of his neck. He howled +and roared and rolled around there awhile and then +he got still. I got round where I could see him, after +he quit kickin', but I was afeared to go up to him, +so I shot two more bullets through his head to make +sure of him. And then I set down and waited a long +while to see if he moved any more; for I was afeard +he mightn't be dead yit, and might be playin' possum, +jist to get ahold of me. But he didn't move no more, +so I went up to him with my gun cocked and pointed +at his head, so if he did move I could give him another +one right quick. An' then I punched him a little with +<span class="pagenum">[152]</span> +my gun, but he didn't stir. An' when I found he +was real dead I took my knife and cut off one of his +claws, an' then I went back to camp, the biggest +feelin' old cuss you ever seed.</p> + +<p>"Well, arter while the other fellers they all come +in, lookin' mighty blue, for they hadn't any of 'em +killed a thing, an' when I told 'em I'd killed a bear, +they wouldn't believe it till I showed 'em the claw. +An' then they wouldn't believe it, neither, for they +thought I'd bought the claw of some Injin. And they +wouldn't believe it at all till they went out with me +and seed the bear and helped skin 'im, and cut 'im +up, and pack 'im into camp. An' they was the dog-gondest, +disappointedest lot of fellers you ever seed, +for we hunted five days longer, an' nary one of 'em +got to kill a bear nor even see one. They thought I +was the poorest hunter and the biggest coward in the +lot, but I was the only one that killed a bear that +clip."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_152.jpg" alt="152" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[153]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<div class="i153"> +<div id="i153_0"> </div> +<div id="i153_1"> </div> +<div id="i153_2"> </div> +<div id="i153_3"> </div> +<div id="i153_4"> </div> +<div id="i153_5"> </div> +<div id="i153_6"> </div> +<div id="i153_7"> </div> +<div id="i153_8"> </div> +<div id="i153_9"> </div> +<div id="i153_10"> </div> +<div id="i153_11"> </div> +<div id="i153_12"> </div> +<div id="i153_13"> </div> +<div id="i153_14"> </div> +<div id="i153_15"> </div> +<div id="i153_16"> </div> +<div id="i153_17"> </div> +<div id="i153_18"> </div> +<div id="i153_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">E</span> +were out at daylight the next morning +and hunted all day with fair success. +Johnston and Billy jumped a bunch of +five mule-deer, a buck, two does, and +two fawns. Johnston fired fourteen +shots at them before they got out of +the country, and killed the two does. +In speaking of it afterward Billy said he was just +taking a good aim at the old buck's eye when +Johnston's gun cracked the first time, and of +course the buck ran, so he did not get a shot.</p> + +<p>"But why didn't you shoot at him running?" I +inquired.</p> + +<p>"Because I can't hit a jumpin' deer," he replied, +frankly, "and I hate like thunder to miss."</p> + +<p>I spent the day about a mile from camp on top of +Blue Grouse Mountain, a prominent landmark of +the country. A heavy fog hung about the mountain +and over the surrounding country until about +three o'clock in the afternoon, when it lifted and +disclosed a view of surpassing loveliness. Away to +the west and southwest there was a level tract of +swampy, heavily timbered country about thirty +miles long and ten miles wide. I looked down on +the tops of the trees composing this vast forest, and +they appeared at this distance not unlike a vast field +of half-grown green grain. Beyond this tract to the +<span class="pagenum">[155]</span> +west a chain of hills wound in serpentine curves +from north to south, their parks and bits of prairie +gleaming in the sun like well-made farms. To the +north lay Loon Lake nestling among the pine-clad +hills, its placid bosom sparkling in the setting sun +like a sheet of silver. Farther to the north and +northeast were two other lakes of equal size and +beauty, while far distant in the east were several +large bodies of prairie separated by strips of pine +and fir. I longed for my camera, but on account of +the unfavorable outlook of the morning, I had not +brought the instrument.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<span class="pagenum">[154]</span> +<img src="images/illo_154.jpg" alt="154" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">ONE OF JOHNSTON'S PRIZES.</p> + +<p>The following morning promised no better, for the +fog hung like a pall over the whole country; but I +took the little detective with me, hoping the mist +would lift as before; in this, however, I was disappointed. +I staid on the mountain from early morning +till half-past three, and there being then no prospect +of a change went down. Just as I reached the +base I saw a rift in the clouds, and supposing the +long-wished change in the weather was about to +take place, I turned and began the weary climb, but +again the fog settled down, and I was at last compelled +to return to camp without the coveted views. +I made several exposures during the day on crooked, +deformed, wind-twisted trees on the top of the +mountain, which, strange to say, came out good. +The fog was so dense at the time that one could not +see fifty yards. I used a small stop and gave each +plate from five to twenty seconds, and found, when +developed, that none of them were over exposed, +while those given the shorter time were under +exposed. That day's hunting resulted in three more +<span class="pagenum">[156]</span> +deer, and as we then had all the meat our team could +take out up the steep hills near camp, we decided to +start for home the next morning. While seated +around our blazing log fire in the old cabin that night, +Mr. Johnston entertained us with some interesting +reminiscences of his extensive experience in the West. +He has been a "broncho buster," a stock ranchman, +and a cow-boy by turns, and a recital of his varied +experiences in these several lines would fill a big +book. Among others, he told us that he once lived +<span class="pagenum">[157]</span> +in a portion of California where the ranchmen raised +a great many hogs, but allowed them to range at will +in the hills and mountains from the time they were +littered until old enough and large enough for +market; that in this time they became as wild as +deer and as savage as peccaries, so that the only way +they could ever be reclaimed and marketed was to +catch them with large, powerful dogs, trained to the +work. Their feet were then securely tied with strong +thongs, and they were muzzled and packed into +market or to the ranches, as their owners desired, on +horses or mules.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_156.jpg" alt="156" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">ARE YOU LOOKING FOR US?</p> + +<p>Johnston had a pair of these dogs, and used to +assist his neighbors in rounding up their wild hogs. +In one case, he and several other men went with an +old German ranchman away up into the mountains +to bring out a drove of these pine-skinners, many of +whom had scarcely seen a human being since they +were pigs, and at sight of the party the hogs stampeded +of course, and ran like so many deer. The dogs +were turned loose, took up a trail, and soon had a +vicious critter by the ears, when the packers came up, +muzzled and tied it securely. The dogs were then +turned loose again, and another hog was rounded up +in the same way. These two were hung onto a pack-animal +with their backs down, their feet lashed +together over the pack-saddle, and their long, sharp +snouts pointing toward the horse's head. They were +duly cinched, and the horse turned loose to join the +train. This operation was repeated until the whole +herd was corralled and swung into place on the horses, +and the squealing, groaning, and snorting of the terrified +brutes was almost deafening. One pair of hogs +<span class="pagenum">[159]</span> +were loaded on a little mule which had never been +accustomed to this work, and, as the men were all +engaged in handling the other animals, the old ranchman +said he would lead this mule down the mountain +himself. Johnston and his partner cinched the hogs +on in good shape, while the Dutchman hung to +the mule.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_158.jpg" alt="158" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A BUCKING MULE.</p> + +<p>As they were giving the ropes the final pull, Johnston +gave his chum a wink, and they both slipped +out their knives, cut the muzzles off the porkers when +the old man was looking the other way, and told +him to go ahead. He started down the trail towing +the little mule, which did not relish its load in the +least, by the halter. The hogs were struggling to +free themselves, and, as the thongs began to cut into +their legs, they got mad and began to bite the mule.</p> + +<p>Then there was trouble; stiff-legged bucking set +in, and mule and hogs were churned up and down, +and changed ends so rapidly that for a few minutes +it was hard to tell which of the three animals was on +the outside, the inside, the topside, or the bottom-side. +The poor little mule was frantic with rage and +fright, and what a mule can not and will not do +under such circumstances, to get rid of a load can not +be done by any four-footed beast. He pawed the +air, kicked, and brayed, jumped backward, forward, +and sidewise, and twisted himself into every imaginable +shape. The old Dutchman was as badly stampeded +as the mule; he shouted, yanked, and swore +in Dutch, English, and Spanish; he yelled to the +men above to come and help him, but they were so +convulsed and doubled up with laughter that they +could not have helped him if they would. +<span class="pagenum">[160]</span></p> + +<p>Finally, the mule got away from the old man and +went tearing down into the cañon; he overtook and +passed the balance of the pack-train, stampeded them +almost beyond control of the packers, and knocked +the poor hogs against trees and brush until they were +almost dead. He ran nearly six miles, and being +unable to get rid of his pack, fell exhausted and lay +there until the men came up and took charge of him. +The old man accused Johnston of cutting the muzzles +off the hogs, but he and his partner both denied it, +said they certainly must have slipped off, and they +finally convinced him that that was the way the +trouble came about.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_160.jpg" alt="160" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">THE BUCKER AND THE BUSTER.</p> + +<p>This, with sundry other recitals of an equally +interesting nature, caused the evening to pass pleasantly, +and at a late hour we turned into our bunks. +We were up and moving long before daylight the +next morning, and as soon as we could see the trail +<span class="pagenum">[161]</span> +hooked up the team and attempted to go, but, alas +for our hopes of an early start, one of the horses +refused to pull at the very outset—in short, he balked +and no mule ever balked worse. Johnston plied the +buckskin until the horse refused to stand it any +longer and began to rear and to throw himself on +the tongue, back in the harness, etc. Johnston got off +the wagon, went to the animal's head and tried to lead +it, but the brute would not be led any more than it +would be driven, and commenced rearing and striking +at its master as if trying to kill him. This +aroused the ire of the ranchman and he picked up a +piece of a board, about four inches wide and three +feet long, and fanned the vicious critter right vigorously. +I took a hand in the game, at Johnston's +request, and warmed the cayuse's latter half to the +best of my ability with a green hemlock gad. He +bucked and backed, reared and ranted, pawed, +pitched, plunged and pranced, charged, cavorted +and kicked, until it seemed that he would surely +make shreds of the harness and kindling wood +of the wagon; but the whole outfit staid with him, +including Johnston and myself.</p> + +<p>We wore out his powers of endurance if not his hide, +and he finally got down to business, took the load up +the hill and home to the ranch, without manifesting +any further inclination to strike. We reached the +ranch about nine o'clock at night, and the next day +Johnston drove me into Spokane Falls, where, in due +time, I caught the train for home.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_162.jpg" alt="162" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">VIEW IN THE SPOKANE VALLEY.</p> + +<p>Spokane Falls is a growing, pushing town, and +the falls of the Spokane river, from which the town +takes its name, afford one of the most beautiful and +<span class="pagenum">[163]</span> +interesting sights on the line of the Northern Pacific +road. There are over a dozen distinct falls within a +half a mile, one of which is over sixty feet in perpendicular +height. Several of these falls are split +into various channels by small islands or pillars of +basaltic rock. At one place, where two of these +channels unite in a common plunge into a small +pool, the water is thrown up in a beautiful, shell-like +cone of white foam, to a height of nearly six +feet. It is estimated by competent engineers that +the river at this point furnishes a water-power equal +in the aggregate to that of the Mississippi at St. +Anthony's Falls. Every passenger over this route +should certainly stop off and spend a few hours +viewing the falls of the Spokane river.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_163.jpg" alt="163" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[164]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<p class="h3">HUNTING THE GRIZZLY BEAR.</p> + +<div class="i164"> +<div id="i164_0"> </div> +<div id="i164_1"> </div> +<div id="i164_2"> </div> +<div id="i164_3"> </div> +<div id="i164_4"> </div> +<div id="i164_5"> </div> +<div id="i164_6"> </div> +<div id="i164_7"> </div> +<div id="i164_8"> </div> +<div id="i164_9"> </div> +<div id="i164_10"> </div> +<div id="i164_11"> </div> +<div id="i164_12"> </div> +<div id="i164_13"> </div> +<div id="i164_14"> </div> +<div id="i164_15"> </div> +<div id="i164_16"> </div> +<div id="i164_17"> </div> +<div id="i164_18"> </div> +<div id="i164_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HE</span> +bear, like man, inhabits almost every +latitude and every land, and has +even been translated to the +starry heavens, where the +constellations of the Great +Dipper and the Little Dipper are +known to us as well as to the ancients as +<i>Ursi Major</i> and <i>Minor</i>. But North America +furnishes the largest and most aggressive species +in the grizzly (<i>Ursus horribilis</i>), the black (<i>Ursus +americanus</i>), and the polar (<i>Ursus maritimus</i>) +bears, and here the hunter finds his most daring +sport. Of all the known plantigrades (flat-footed +beasts) the grizzly is the most savage and the most +dreaded, and he is the largest of all, saving the +presence of his cousin the polar bear, for which, +nevertheless, he is more than a match in strength +and courage. Some specimens measure seven feet +from tip of nose to root of tail. The distinctive +marks of the species are its great size; the shortness +of the tail as compared with the ears; the huge flat +paws, the sole of the hind foot sometimes measuring +seven and a half by five inches in a large male; +the length of the hind legs as compared with the +fore legs, which gives the beast his awkward, shambling +gait; the long claws of the fore foot, sometimes +seven inches in length, while those of the hind foot +<span class="pagenum">[165]</span> +measure only three or four; the erect, bristling mane +of stiff hair, often six inches long; the coarse hair +of the body, sometimes three inches long, dark at +the base, but with light tips. He has a dark stripe +along the back, and one along each side, the hair on +his body being, as a rule, a brownish-yellow, the +region around the ears dusky, the legs nearly black, +and the muzzle pale. Color, however, is not a distinctive +mark, for female grizzlies have been killed +in company with two cubs, one of which was brown, +the other gray, or one dark, the other light; and the +supposed species of "cinnamon" and "brown" +bears are merely color variations of <i>Ursus horribilis</i> +himself.</p> + +<p>This ubiquitous gentleman has a wide range for his +habitat. He has been found on the Missouri river +from Fort Pierre northward, and thence west to his +favorite haunts in the Rockies; on the Pacific slope +clear down to the coast; as far south as Mexico, and as +far north as the Great Slave Lake in British America. +He not only ranges everywhere, but eats everything. +His majesty is a good liver. He is not properly a +beast of prey, for he has neither the cat-like instincts, +nor the noiseless tread of the <i>felidæ</i>, nor is he fleet +and long-winded like the wolf, although good at a +short run, as an unlucky hunter may find. But he +hangs about the flanks of a herd of buffalo, with +probably an eye to a wounded or disabled animal, +and he frequently raids a ranch and carries off a +sheep, hog, or calf that is penned beyond the possibility +of escape.</p> +</div> + +<p>Elk is his favorite meat, and the knowing hunter +who has the good luck to kill an elk makes sure +<span class="pagenum">[166]</span> +that its carcass will draw Mr. Grizzly if he is within +a range of five miles. He will eat not only flesh, +fish, and fowl, but roots, herbs, fruit, vegetables, +honey, and insects as well. Plums, buffalo-berries, +and choke-cherries make a large part of his diet in +their seasons.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_166.jpg" alt="166" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">DEATH AND THE CAUSE OF IT.</p> + +<p>The grizzly bear possesses greater vitality and +tenacity of life than any other animal on the continent, +and the hunter who would hunt him must be +well armed and keep a steady nerve. Each shot must +be cooly put where it will do the most good. Several +<span class="pagenum">[167]</span> +are frequently necessary to stop one of these savage +beasts. A single bullet lodged in the brain is fatal. +If shot through the heart he may run a quarter of +a mile or kill a man before he succumbs. In the +days of the old muzzle-loading rifle it was hazardous +indeed to hunt the grizzly, and many a man has +paid the penalty of his folly with his life. With +our improved breech-loading and repeating rifles +there is less risk.</p> + +<p>The grizzly is said to bury carcasses of large animals +for future use as food, but this I doubt. I +have frequently returned to carcasses of elk or deer +that I had killed and found that during my absence +bears had partially destroyed them, and in their +excitement, occasioned by the smell or taste of fresh +meat, had pawed up the earth a good deal thereabout, +throwing dirt and leaves in various directions, +and some of this débris may have fallen on the +bodies of the dead game; but I have never seen where +any systematic attempt had been made at burying a +carcass. Still, Bruin may have played the sexton in +some cases. He hibernates during winter, but does +not take to his long sleep until the winter has +thoroughly set in and the snow is quite deep. He +may frequently be tracked and found in snow a foot +deep, where he is roaming in search of food. He +becomes very fat before going into winter quarters, +and this vast accumulation of oil furnishes nutriment +and heat sufficient to sustain life during his long +confinement.</p> + +<p>The newspapers often kill grizzlies weighing 1,500, +1,800, or even 2,000 pounds, and in any party of +frontiersmen "talking grizzly" you will find plenty +<span class="pagenum">[168]</span> +of men who can give date and place where they +killed or helped to kill at least 1,800 pounds of +Bruin.</p> + +<p>"Did you weigh it?"</p> + +<p>"No, we didn't weigh 'im; but every man as seed +'im said he would weigh that, and they was all good +jedges, too."</p> + +<p>And this is the way most of the stories of big bear, +big elk, big deer, etc., begin and end. Bears are +usually, though not always, killed at considerable +distances from towns, or even ranches, where it is +not easy to find a scales large enough to weigh so +much meat.</p> + +<p>The largest grizzly I have ever killed would not +weigh more than 700 or 800 pounds, and I do not +believe one has ever lived that would weigh 1,000 +pounds. The flesh of the adult grizzly is tough, +stringy, and decidedly unpalatable, but that of a +young fat one is tender and juicy, and is always a +welcome dish on the hunter's table.</p> + +<p>The female usually gives birth to two cubs, and +sometimes three, at a time. At birth they weigh +only about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 pounds each. The grizzly breeds +readily in confinement, and several litters have been +produced in the Zoological Gardens at Cincinnati. +The female is unusually vicious while rearing her +young, and the hunter must be doubly cautious +about attacking at that time. An Indian rarely +attacks a grizzly single-handed at any time, and it is +only when several of these native hunters are together +that they will attempt to kill one. They value the +claws very highly, however, and take great pride in +wearing strings of them around their necks. +<span class="pagenum">[169]</span></p> + +<p>The grizzly usually frequents the timbered or +brush-covered portions of mountainous regions, or +the timbered valleys of streams that head in the +mountains. He occasionally follows down the course +of these streams, and even travels many miles from +one stream to another, or from one range of mountains +to another, across open prairie. I once found +one on a broad open plateau in the Big Horn +Mountains, about half a mile from the nearest +cover of any kind. He was turning over rocks in +search of worms. At the report of my rifle he started +for the nearest cañon, but never reached it. An +explosive bullet through his lungs rendered him +unequal to the journey.</p> + +<p>Few persons believe that a grizzly will attack a +man before he is himself attacked. I was one of +these doubting Thomases until a few years ago, +when I was thoroughly convinced by ocular demonstration +that some grizzlies, at least, will attempt to +make a meal off a man even though he may not have +harmed them previously. We were hunting in the +Shoshone Mountains in Northern Wyoming. I had +killed a large elk in the morning, and on going back +to the carcass in the afternoon to skin it we saw that +Bruin had been there ahead us, but had fled on our +approach. Without the least apprehension of his +return, we leaned our rifles against a tree about fifty +feet away, and commenced work. There were three +of us, but only two rifles, Mr. Huffman, the photographer, +having left his in camp. He had finished +taking views of the carcass, and we were all busily +engaged skinning, when, hearing a crashing in the +brush and a series of savage roars and growls, we +<span class="pagenum">[170]</span> +looked up the hill, and were horrified to see three +grizzly bears, an old female and two cubs about two-thirds +grown, charging upon us with all the savage +fury of a pack of starving wolves upon a sheepfold.</p> + +<p>To make a long story short, we killed the old +female and one cub; the other escaped into the jungle +before we could get a shot at him. The resolute +front we put on alone saved our lives.</p> + +<p>In another instance, when hunting deer in Idaho, +I came suddenly upon a female grizzly and two cubs, +when the mother bear charged me savagely and +would have killed me had I not fortunately controlled +my nerves long enough to put a couple of +bullets through her and stop her before she got +to me.</p> + +<p>I have heard of several other instances of grizzlies +making unprovoked attacks on men, which were so +well substantiated that I could not question the +truth of the reports.</p> + +<p>The grizzly is partially nocturnal in his habits, +and apparently divides his labor of obtaining food +and his traveling about equally between day and +night. It is not definitely known to what age he +lives in his wild state, but he is supposed to attain +to twenty-five or thirty years. Several have lived in +domestication to nearly that age, and one died in +Union Park, Chicago, a few years ago, that was +known to be eighteen years old.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the great courage and ferocity of +this formidable beast, he will utter the most pitiable +groans and howls when seriously or mortally +wounded.</p> + +<p>Two brothers were prospecting in a range of mountains +<span class="pagenum">[171]</span> +near the headwaters of the Stinking Water +river. The younger of the two, though an ablebodied +man, and capable of doing a good day's work +with a pick or shovel, was weak-minded, and the +elder brother never allowed him to go any distance +away from camp or their work alone. He, however, +sent him one evening to the spring, a few rods off, +to bring a kettleful of water. The spring was in a +deep gorge, and the trail to it wound through some +fissures in the rock. As the young man passed +under a shelving rock, an immense old female grizzly, +that had taken up temporary quarters there, reached +out and struck a powerful blow at his head, but fortunately +could not reach far enough to do him any +serious harm. The blow knocked his hat off, and +her claws caught his scalp, and laid it open clear +across the top of his head in several ugly gashes. +The force of the blow sent him spinning around, and +not knowing enough to be frightened, he attacked +her savagely with the only weapon he had at hand—the +camp kettle.</p> + +<p>The elder brother heard the racket, and hastily +catching up his rifle and hurrying to the scene of the +disturbance, found his brother vigorously belaboring +the bear over the head with the camp kettle, +and the bear striking savage blows at him, any +one of which, if she could have reached him, +would have torn his head from his shoulders. +Three bullets from the rifle, fired in rapid succession, +loosened her hold upon the rocks, and she tumbled +lifelessly into the trail. The poor idiotic boy could +not even then realize the danger through which he +had passed, and could only appease his anger by +<span class="pagenum">[172]</span> +continuing to maul the bear over the head with the +camp kettle for several minutes after she was dead.</p> + +<p>Some years ago I went into the mountains with a +party of friends to hunt elk. Our guide told us we +should find plenty of grouse along the trail, from +the day we left the settlements; that on the third +day out we should find elk, and that it would therefore +be useless to burden our pack-horses with meat. +We accordingly took none save a small piece of +bacon.</p> + +<p>Contrary to his predictions, however, we found no +grouse or other small game <i>en route</i>, and soon ate up +our bacon. Furthermore, we were five days in +reaching the elk country, instead of three as he said. +All this time we were climbing mountains and had +appetites that are known only to mountain climbers. +We had plenty of bread and potatoes, but these +were not sufficient. We hankered for flesh, and +though we filled ourselves with vegetable food, yet +were we hungry.</p> + +<p>Finally we reached our destination at midday. +While we were unloading the horses, a "fool hen" +came and lit in a tree near us. A rifle ball beheaded +her, and almost before she was done kicking she +was in the frying pan.</p> + +<p>A negro once had a bottle of whisky, and was +making vigorous efforts to get outside of it, when a +chum came up and asked for a pull at it. "O, g'long, +nigger," said the happy owner of the corn juice. +"What's one bottle of whisky 'mong one man?" +And what was one little grouse among five half-starved +men? The smell and taste only made us +long for more. +<span class="pagenum">[173]</span></p> + +<p>After dinner we all went out and hunted until +dark. Soon after leaving camp some of us heard +lively firing up the cañon, where our guide had +gone, and felt certain that he had secured meat, for +we had heard glowing accounts, from him and his +friends, of his prowess as a hunter. The rest of us +were not so despondent, therefore, when we returned +at dusk empty handed, as we should otherwise have +been, until we reached camp and found the guide +there wearing a long face and bloodless hands.</p> + +<p>He told a doleful story of having had five fair +shots at a large bull elk, who stood broadside on, only +seventy-five yards away, but who finally became +alarmed at the fusilade and fled, leaving no blood +on his trail. The guide of course anathematized +his gun in the choicest terms known to frontiersmen, +and our mouths watered as we thought of what +might have been.</p> + +<p>Our potatoes, having been compelled to stand for +meat also, had vanished rapidly, and we ate the last +of them for supper that night. Few words were +spoken and no jokes cracked over that meal. We +ate bread straight for breakfast, and turning out +early hunted diligently all day. We were nearly +famished when we returned at night and no one had +seen any living thing larger than a pine squirrel. +It is written that "man shall not live by bread +alone," and we found that we could not much longer. +And soon we should not have even that, for our +flour was getting low. But we broke the steaming +flat-cake again at supper, and turned in to dream of +juicy steaks, succulent joints, and delicious rib +roasts. +<span class="pagenum">[174]</span></p> + +<p>We were up before daylight to find that six or +eight inches of light snow had fallen silently during +the night, which lay piled up on the branches of +the trees, draping the dense forests in ghostly white. +Our drooping spirits revived, for we hoped that the +tell-tale mantle would enable us to find the game we +so much needed in our business. We broke our +bread more cheerfully that morning than for two +days previously, but at the council of war held over +the frugal meal, decided that unless we scored that +day we must make tracks for the nearest ranch the +next morning, and try to make our scanty remnant +of flour keep us alive until we could get there.</p> + +<p>Breakfast over we scattered ourselves by the four +points of the compass and set out. It fell to my lot +to go up the cañon. Silently I strode through the +forest, scanning the snow in search of foot-prints, +but for an hour I could see none. Then, as I cautiously +ascended a ridge, I heard a crash in the brush +beyond and reached the summit just in time to see +the latter end of a large bull elk disappear in the +thicket.</p> + +<p>He had not heard or seen me, but had winded me, +and tarried not for better acquaintance. I followed his +trail some three miles up the cañon, carefully +penetrating the thickets and peering among the +larger trees, but never a glimpse could I get and +never a sound could I hear of him. He seemed +unusually wild. I could see by his trail that he had +not stopped, but had kept straight away on that +long, swinging trot that is such a telling gait of the +species, and which they will sometimes keep up for +hours together. Finally I came to where he had +<span class="pagenum">[175]</span> +left the cañon and ascended the mountain. I followed +up this for a time, but seeing that he had not +yet paused, and finding that my famished condition +rendered me unequal to the climb, was compelled to +abandon the pursuit and with a heavy heart return +again to the cañon. I kept on up it, but could find +no other game or sign of any. Like the red hunter, +in the time of famine, who</p> + +<div class="inset18"> +<p>"Vainly walked through the forest,<br /> +Sought for bird, or beast, and found none;<br /> +Saw no track of deer or rabbit,<br /> +In the snow beheld no foot-prints,<br /> +In the ghostly gleaming forest<br /> +Fell and could not rise from weakness,"</p> +</div> + +<p class="noin">so I trudged on until, wearied and worn out, I lay +down beside a giant fir tree, whose spreading +branches had kept the snow from the ground, and +fell asleep. When I awoke my joints were stiff and +sore, and I was chilled to the bone. It was late in +the afternoon, and a quiet, drizzling rain had set in.</p> + +<p>I found the trail that led through the cañon, and +started back to camp, trudging along as rapidly as +possible, for hunger was gnawing at my vitals and +my strength was fast failing.</p> + +<div class="inset16"> +<p>"Over snow-fields waste and pathless,<br /> +Under snow-encumbered branches,<br /> +Empty-handed, heavy-hearted,"</p> +</div> + +<p class="noin">I toiled wearily on. The snow had become saturated +with the rain, and great chunks of it were +falling from the trees with dull, monotonous sounds. +"Slush, slush," "Splash, splash," came the gloomy +sounds from all parts of the woods. I was nearing +camp, and had abandoned all hope of seeing game. +<span class="pagenum">[176]</span> +My only object was to reach shelter, to rest, and +feast on the unsatisfying bread. I heard a succession +of the splashings that came from my left with +such regular cadence as to cause me to look up, +when, great St. Hubert! there came a huge grizzly +bear shambling and splashing along through the +wet snow. It was his footsteps that I had been +hearing for a minute or two past, and which I had, +at first, thought to be the falling snow.</p> + +<p>He had not yet seen me, and what a marvelous +change came over me! I forgot that I was tired; +that I was weak; that I was hungry. The instincts +of the hunter reanimated me, and I thought only of +killing the grand game before me. I threw down +my rifle, raising the hammer as the weapon came +into position, and the click of the lock reached his +ear. It was the first intimation he had of possible +danger, and he stopped and threw up his head to +look and listen. My thoughts came and went like +flashes of lightning. I remembered then the famishing +condition of myself and friends. Here was +meat, and I must save it. There must be no nervousness—no +wild shooting now. This shot <i>must</i> +tell. And there was not a tremor in all my system. +Every nerve was as of steel for the instant. The +little gold bead on the muzzle of the rifle instantly +found the vital spot behind the bear's shoulder, +gleamed through the rear sight like a spark of fire, +and before he had time to realize what the strange +apparition was that had so suddenly confronted +him, the voice of the Winchester was echoing +through the cañon and an express bullet had +crashed through his vitals. +<span class="pagenum">[177]</span></p> + +<p>The shock was so sudden and the effect on him so +deadly that he apparently thought nothing of fight, +but only of seeking a place to die in peace.</p> + +<p>He wheeled and shot into a neighboring thicket +with the speed of an arrow. I fired at him again as +he disappeared. He crashed through the jungle out +into the open woods, turned to the right and went +across a ridge as if Satan himself were after him. +As the big gray mass shot through a clear space +between two trees I gave him another speeder, and +then he disappeared beyond a ridge.</p> + +<p>The snow had melted rapidly and the ground was +bare in places, so that I had some trouble in trailing +the bear, but wherever he crossed a patch of snow +his trail was bespattered with blood. I followed +over the ridge and through scattering jack pines, +about two hundred yards, and found him lying +dead near the trail. My first and third bullets had +gone in behind his shoulder only an inch apart. +The first had passed clear through him, and the +other had lodged against the skin on the opposite +side. Several ribs were broken on either side, and +his lungs and other portions of his interior were +ground into sausage; yet so great was his vitality +and tenacity to life that he was able to make this +distance at a speed that would have taxed the best +horse in the country, and if he had seen fit to attack +me instead of running away he would probably +have made sausage of me.</p> + +<p>But what feasting and what revelry there was in +camp that night. It was a young bear, fat as +butter, and rib roasts and cutlets were devoured in +quantities that would have shocked the modesty of +<span class="pagenum">[178]</span> +a tramp. Not until well into the night did we cease +to eat, and wrap ourselves in our blankets. We staid +several days in the cañon after that, and killed plenty +of elk and other game.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>The skin of the grizzly is one of the most valuable +trophies a sportsman can obtain on any field, and its +rarity, and the danger and excitement attending the +taking of it, the courage it bespeaks on the part of +the hunter, render it a prize of which the winner +may justly feel proud for a lifetime.</p> + +<p>The best localities in which to hunt the grizzly +bear—that is, those most accessible and in which he +is now most numerous—are the Big Horn, Shoshone, +Wind River, Bear Tooth, Belt, and Crazy Mountains, +in Wyoming and Montana, all of which may be +easily reached by way of the Northern Pacific +road.</p> + +<p>The best time of year to hunt for this, as well +as all the other species of large game in the Rocky +Mountains, is in the months of September, October, +and November, though in the latter month the +sportsman should not venture high up into the +mountains where heavy snow-falls are liable to +occur. There is a great deal of bear hunting done +in the summer months, but it is contrary to the laws +of nature, and should not be indulged in by any +true sportsman. The skins are nearly worthless +then, while in the autumn they are prime; the heat +is oppressive, and the flies and mosquitoes are great +pests.</p> + +<p>The best arm for this class of game is a repeating +rifle of large calibre, 45 or 50, carrying a large +<span class="pagenum">[179]</span> +charge of powder and a solid bullet. The new Winchester +express, 50/110, with solid ball, is perhaps the +best in the market, all things considered.</p> + +<p>There are several methods of hunting the grizzly, +the most common being to kill an elk, and then watch +the carcass. Shots may frequently be obtained in +this way early in the morning or late in the evening, +and on bright moonlight nights it is best to watch all +night, for the immense size of the grizzly renders him +an easy target at short range even by moonlight. +Another method is to still-hunt him, the same as is +done with deer. This is perhaps the most sportsmanlike +of all, and if a coulee or creek bottom be +selected where there are plenty of berries, or an +open, hilly, rocky country, where the bears are in +the habit of hunting for worms, or any good feeding-ground +where bear signs are plentiful, and due care +and caution be exercised, there is as good a chance +of success as by any other method. Many hunters +set guns with a cord running from the trigger to a +bait of fresh meat, and the muzzle of the gun pointing +at the meat; others set large steel traps or deadfalls. +But such contrivances are never used by true +sportsmen.</p> + +<p>Game of any kind should always be pursued in a +fair, manly manner, and given due chance to preserve +its life if it is skillful enough to do so. If +captured, let it be by the superior skill, sagacity, or +endurance of the sportsman, not by traps which +close on it as it innocently and unsuspectingly seeks +its food.</p> + +<p>Grizzly bear hunting is unquestionably the grandest +sport that our continent affords. The grizzly +<span class="pagenum">[180]</span> +is the only really dangerous game we have, and the +decidedly hazardous character of the sport is what +gives it its greatest zest, and renders it the most fascinating +of pursuits. Many sportsmen proclaim the +superiority of their favorite pastime over all other +kinds, be it quail, grouse, or duck shooting, fox-chasing, +deer-stalking, or what not; and each has its +charm, more or less intense, according to its nature; +but no man ever felt his heart swell with pride, his +nerves tingle with animation, his whole system glow +with wild, uncontrollable enthusiasm, at the bagging +of any bird or small animal, as does the man +who stands over the prostrate form of a monster +grizzly that he has slain. Let the devotee of these +other classes of sport try bear hunting, and when he +has bagged his first grizzly, then let him talk!</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_180.jpg" alt="180" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[181]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<p class="h3">ELK HUNTING IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</p> + +<div class="i181"> +<div id="i181_0"> </div> +<div id="i181_1"> </div> +<div id="i181_2"> </div> +<div id="i181_3"> </div> +<div id="i181_4"> </div> +<div id="i181_5"> </div> +<div id="i181_6"> </div> +<div id="i181_7"> </div> +<div id="i181_8"> </div> +<div id="i181_9"> </div> +<div id="i181_10"> </div> +<div id="i181_11"> </div> +<div id="i181_12"> </div> +<div id="i181_13"> </div> +<div id="i181_14"> </div> +<div id="i181_15"> </div> +<div id="i181_16"> </div> +<div id="i181_17"> </div> +<div id="i181_18"> </div> +<div id="i181_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">F</span> +all the large game on the American +continent, the elk (<i>Cervus canadensis</i>) +is the noblest, the grandest, the stateliest. +I would detract nothing from the noble +game qualities of the moose, caribou, deer, +or mountain sheep. Each has its peculiar +points of excellence which endear it to the heart of +the sportsman, but the elk possesses more than any +of the others. In size he towers far above all, +except the moose. In sagacity, caution, cunning, +and wariness he is the peer, if not the superior, of +them all. He is always on the alert, his keen scent, +his piercing eye, his acute sense of hearing, combining +to render him a vigilant sentinel of his own +safety.</p> + +<p>His great size and powerful muscular construction +give him almost unbounded endurance. When +alarmed or pursued he will travel for twenty or +thirty hours, at a rapid swinging trot, without stopping +for food or rest. He is a proud, fearless ranger, +and even when simply migrating from one range of +mountains to another, will travel from seventy-five +to a hundred miles without lying down. He is a +marvelous mountaineer, and, considering his +<span class="pagenum">[182]</span> +immense size and weight, often ascends to heights +that seem incredible. He may often be found away +up to timber line, and will traverse narrow passes +and defiles, climbing over walls of rock and through +fissures where it would seem impossible for so large +an animal, with such massive antlers as he carries, +to go. He chooses his route, however, with rare +good judgment, and all mountaineers know that an +elk trail is the best that can possibly be selected +over any given section of mountainous country. +His faculty of traversing dense jungles and windfalls +is equally astonishing. If given his own time, +he will move quietly and easily through the worst of +these, leaping over logs higher than his back as +gracefully and almost as lightly as the deer; yet let +a herd of elk be alarmed and start on a run through +one of these labyrinthine masses, and they will make +a noise like a regiment of cavalry on a precipitous +charge.</p> + +<p>I have stood on the margin of a quaking-asp +thicket and heard a large band of elk coming +toward me that had been "jumped" and fired upon +by my friend at the other side, and the frightful +noise of their horns pounding the trees, their hoofs +striking each other and the numerous rocks, the +crashing of dead branches, with the snorting of the +affrighted beasts, might well have struck terror to +the heart of anyone unused to such sights and +sounds, and have caused him to seek safety in +flight. But by standing my ground I was enabled +to get in a couple of shots at short range, and to +bring down two of the finest animals in the herd.</p> +</div> + +<p>The whistle of the elk is a sound which many +<span class="pagenum">[183]</span> +have tried to describe, yet I doubt if anyone who +may have read all the descriptions of it ever written +would recognize it on a first hearing. It is a most +strange, weird, peculiar sound, baffling all efforts of +the most skillful word-painter. It is only uttered by +the male, and there is the same variety in the sound +made by different stags as in different human voices. +Usually the cry begins and ends with a sort of grunt, +somewhat like the bellow of a domestic cow cut short, +but the interlude is a long-drawn, melodious, flutelike +sound that rises and falls with a rhythmical +cadence, floating on the still evening air, by which +it is often wafted with singular distinctness to great +distances. By other individuals, or even by the +same individual at various times, either the first or +last of these abrupt sounds is omitted, and only the +other, in connection with the long-drawn, silver-toned +strain, is given.</p> + +<p>The stag utters this call only in the love-making +season, and for the purpose of ascertaining the +whereabouts of his dusky mate, who responds by a +short and utterly unmusical sound, similar to that +with which the male begins or ends his call.</p> + +<p>Once, when exploring in Idaho, I had an interesting +and exciting experience with a band of elk. +I had camped for the night on a high divide, between +two branches of the Clearwater river. The weather +had been intensely dry and hot for several days, and +the tall rye grass that grew in the old burn where I +had pitched my camp was dry as powder. There +was a gentle breeze from the south. Fearing that a +spark might be carried into the grass, I extinguished +my camp-fire as soon as I had cooked and eaten my +<span class="pagenum">[185]</span> +supper. As darkness drew on, I went out to picket +my horses and noticed that they were acting +strangely. They were looking down the mountain +side with ears pointed forward, sniffing the air and +moving about uneasily.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_184.jpg" alt="184" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">THE <i>WAPITI</i>, OR AMERICAN ELK.</p> + +<p>I gave their picket ropes a turn around convenient +jack pines, and then slipping cautiously back to the +tent, got my rifle and returned. I could see nothing +strange and sat down beside a log to await developments. +In a few minutes I heard a dead limb break. +Then there was a rustling in a bunch of tall, dry +grass; more snapping of twigs and shaking of bushes. +I ascertained that there were several large animals +moving toward me and feared it might be a family +of bears. I feared it, I say, because it was now so +dark that I could not see to shoot at any distance, and +knew that if bears came near the horses the latter +would break their ropes and stampede. I thought +of shouting and trying to frighten them off, but +decided to await developments. Presently I heard +a snapping of hoofs and a succession of dull, heavy, +thumping noises, accompanied by reports of breaking +brush, which I knew at once were made by a +band of elk jumping over a high log.</p> + +<p>The game was now not more than fifty yards +away and in open ground, yet I could not see even +a movement, for I was looking down toward a dark +cañon, many hundreds of feet deep. Slowly the +great beasts worked toward me. They were coming +down wind and I felt sure could not scent me, but +they could evidently see my horses, outlined against +the sky, and had doubtless heard them snorting +and moving about. +<span class="pagenum">[186]</span></p> + +<p>The ponies grew more anxious but less frightened +than at first, and seemed now desirous of making +the acquaintance of their wild visitors.</p> + +<p>Slowly the elk moved forward until within thirty +or forty feet of me, when I could begin to discern +by the starlight their dark, shaggy forms. Then +they stopped. I could hear them sniffing the air +and could see them moving cautiously from place +to place, apparently suspicious of danger. But +they were coming down wind, could get no indication +of my presence, and were anxious to interview +the horses.</p> + +<p>They moved slowly forward, and when they +stopped this time, two old bulls and one cow, +who were in the front rank, so to speak, stood +within ten feet of me. Their great horns towered +up like the branches of dead trees, and I could hear +them breathe.</p> + +<p>Again they circled from side to side and I thought +surely they would get far enough to one quarter or +the other to wind me, but they did not. Several +other cows and two timid little calves crowded to the +front to look at their hornless cousins who now stood +close behind me, and even in the starlight, I could +have shot any one of them between the eyes.</p> + +<p>My saddle cayuse uttered a low gentle whinny, +whereat the whole band wheeled and dashed away; +but after making a few leaps their momentary scare +seemed to subside, and they stopped, looked, snorted +a few times and then began to edge up again—this +time even more shyly than before.</p> + +<p>It was intensely interesting to study the caution +and circumspection with which these creatures +<span class="pagenum">[187]</span> +planned and carried out their investigation all the +way through.</p> + +<p>The only mistake they made, and one at which +I was surprised, considering their usual cunning +and sagacity, was that some of them at least did not +circle the horses and get to the leeward. But they +were in such a wild country, so far back in the +remote fastnesses of the Rockies, that they had +probably never encountered hunters or horses +before and had not acquired all the cunning of their +more hunted and haunted brothers. After their +temporary scare they returned, step by step, to their +investigation, and the largest bull in the bunch +approached the very log behind which I sat. He +was just in the act of stepping over it when he +caught a whiff of my breath and, with a terrific +snort, vaulted backward and sidewise certainly +thirty feet. At the same instant I rose up and +shouted, and the whole band went tearing down +the mountain side making a racket like that of an +avalanche.</p> + +<p>As before stated, I could have had my choice out +of the herd, but my only pack-horse was loaded so +that I could have carried but a small piece of meat, +and was unwilling to waste so grand a creature for +the little I could save from him.</p> + +<p>The antlers of the bull elk grow to a great size. +He sheds them in February of each year. The new +horn begins to grow in April. During the summer it +is soft and pulpy and is covered with a fine velvety +growth of hair; it matures and hardens in August; +early in September he rubs this velvet off and is then +ready to try conclusions with any rival that comes in +<span class="pagenum">[188]</span> +his way. The rutting season over, he has no further +use for his antlers until the next autumn, and they +drop off. Thus the process is repeated, year after +year, as regularly as the leaves grow and fall from +the trees. But it seems a strange provision of nature +that should load an animal with sixty to seventy-five +pounds of horns, for half the year, when +weapons of one-quarter the size and weight would +be equally effective if all were armed alike.</p> + +<p>I have in my collection the head of a bull elk, +killed in the Shoshone Mountains, in Northern +Wyoming, the antlers of which measure as follows:</p> + +<p>Length of main beam, 4 feet 8 inches; length of +brow tine, 1 foot 6-1/2 inches; length of bes tine, 1 foot +8-1/2 inches; length of royal tine, 1 foot 7 inches; +length of surroyal, 1 foot 8-1/2 inches: circumference +around burr, 1 foot 3-1/4 inches; circumference around +beam above burr, 12 inches; circumference of brow +tine at base, 7-1/2 inches; spread of main beams at tips, +4 feet 9 inches. They are one of the largest and finest +pairs of antlers of which I have any knowledge. +The animal when killed would have weighed nearly +a thousand pounds.</p> + +<p>The elk is strictly gregarious, and in winter time, +especially, the animals gather into large bands, and +a few years ago herds of from five hundred to a +thousand were not uncommon. Now, however, their +numbers have been so far reduced by the ravages +of "skin hunters" and others that one will rarely +find more than twenty-five or thirty in a band.</p> + +<p>In the fall of 1879, a party of three men were +sight-seeing and hunting in the Yellowstone National +Park, and having prolonged their stay until +<span class="pagenum">[189]</span> +late in October, were overtaken by a terrible snowstorm, +which completely blockaded and obliterated +all the trails, and filled the gulches, cañons, and +coulees to such a depth that their horses could not +travel over them at all. They had lain in camp +three days waiting for the storm to abate; but as it +continued to grow in severity, and as the snow +became deeper and deeper, their situation grew daily +and hourly more alarming. Their stock of provisions +was low, they had no shelter sufficient to +withstand the rigors of a winter at that high altitude, +and it was fast becoming a question whether +they should ever be able to escape beyond the snow-clad +peaks and snow-filled cañons with which they +were hemmed in. Their only hope of escape was by +abandoning their horses, and constructing snow-shoes +which might keep them above the snow; but +in this case they could not carry bedding and food +enough to last them throughout the several days +that the journey would occupy to the nearest ranch, +and the chances of killing game <i>en route</i> after the +severe weather had set in were extremely precarious. +They had already set about making snow-shoes +from the skin of an elk which they had saved. One +pair had been completed, and the storm having +abated, one of the party set out to look over the +surrounding country for the most feasible route by +which to get out, and also to try if possible to find +game of some kind. He had gone about a mile +toward the northeast when he came upon the fresh +trail of a large band of elk that were moving toward +the east. He followed, and in a short time came up +with them. They were traveling in single file, led +<span class="pagenum">[190]</span> +by a powerful old bull, who wallowed through snow +in which only his head and neck were visible, with +all the patience and perseverance of a faithful old +ox. The others followed him—the stronger ones in +front and the weaker ones bringing up the rear. +There were thirty-seven in the band, and by the +time they had all walked in the same line they left +it an open, well-beaten trail. The hunter approached +within a few yards of them. They were greatly +alarmed when they saw him, and made a few bounds +in various directions; but seeing their struggles +were in vain, they meekly submitted to what seemed +their impending fate, and fell back in rear of their +file-leader. This would have been the golden opportunity +of a skin hunter, who could and would have +shot them all down in their tracks from a single +stand. But such was not the mission of our friend. +He saw in this noble, struggling band a means of +deliverance from what had threatened to be a wintry +grave for him and his companions. He did not fire +a shot, and did not in any way create unnecessary +alarm amongst the elk, but hurried back to camp +and reported to his friends what he had seen.</p> + +<p>In a moment the camp was a scene of activity and +excitement. Tent, bedding, provisions, everything +that was absolutely necessary to their journey, were +hurriedly packed upon their pack animals; saddles +were placed, rifles were slung to the saddles, and +leaving all surplus baggage, such as trophies of +their hunt, mineral specimens and curios of various +kinds, for future comers, they started for the elk +trail. They had a slow, tedious, and laborious task, +breaking a way through the deep snow to reach it, +<span class="pagenum">[191]</span> +but by walking and leading their saddle animals +ahead, the pack animals were able to follow slowly. +Finally they reached the trail of the elk herd, and +following this, after nine days of tedious and painful +traveling, the party arrived at a ranch on the +Stinking Water river, which was kept by a +"squaw man" and his wife, where they were +enabled to lodge and recruit themselves and their +stock, and whence they finally reached their homes +in safety. The band of elk passed on down the +river, and our tourists never saw them again; but +they have doubtless long ere this all fallen a prey to +the ruthless war that is constantly being waged +against them by hunters white and red.</p> + +<p>It is sad to think that such a noble creature as the +American elk is doomed to early and absolute +extinction, but such is nevertheless the fact. Year +by year his mountain habitat is being surrounded +and encroached upon by the advancing line of settlements, +as the fisherman encircles the struggling +mass of fishes in the clear pond with his long and +closely-meshed net. The lines are drawn closer and +closer each year. These lines are the ranches of +cattle and sheep raisers, the cabins and towns of +miners, the stations and residences of employés of +the railroads. All these places are made the shelters +and temporary abiding places of Eastern and foreign +sportsmen who go out to the mountains to +hunt. Worse than this, they are made the permanent +abiding places, and constitute the active and +convenient markets of the nefarious and unconscionable +skin hunter and meat hunter. Here he can +find a ready market for the meats and skins he +<span class="pagenum">[193]</span> +brings in, and an opportunity to spend the proceeds +of such outrageous traffic in ranch whisky and revelry. +The ranchmen themselves hunt and lay in +their stock of meat for the year when the game +comes down into the valleys. The Indians, when +they have eaten up their Government rations, lie in +wait for the elk in the same manner. So that when +the first great snows of the autumn or winter fall in +the high ranges, when the elk band together and +seek refuge in the valleys, as did the herd that our +fortunate tourists followed out, they find a mixed +and hungry horde waiting for them at the mouth of +every cañon. Before they have reached the valley +where the snow-fall is light enough to allow them +to live through the winter their skins are drying in +the neighboring "shacks."</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_192.jpg" alt="192" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">WORK OF THE EXTERMINATORS.</p> + +<p>This unequal, one-sided warfare, this ruthless +slaughter of inoffensive creatures, can not last +always. Indeed, it can last but little longer. In +ranges where only a few years ago herds of four or +five hundred elk could be found, the hunter of +to-day considers himself in rare luck when he finds +a band of ten or twelve, and even small bands of +any number are so rare that a good hunter may +often hunt a week in the best elk country to be +found anywhere without getting a single shot. All +the Territories have good, wholesome game-laws +which forbid the killing of game animals except +during two or three months in the fall; but these +laws are not enforced. They are a dead letter on +the statute-books, and the illegal and illegitimate +slaughter goes on unchecked.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[194]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<p class="h3">ANTELOPE HUNTING IN MONTANA.</p> + +<div class="i194"> +<div id="i194_0"> </div> +<div id="i194_1"> </div> +<div id="i194_2"> </div> +<div id="i194_3"> </div> +<div id="i194_4"> </div> +<div id="i194_5"> </div> +<div id="i194_6"> </div> +<div id="i194_7"> </div> +<div id="i194_8"> </div> +<div id="i194_9"> </div> +<div id="i194_10"> </div> +<div id="i194_11"> </div> +<div id="i194_12"> </div> +<div id="i194_13"> </div> +<div id="i194_14"> </div> +<div id="i194_15"> </div> +<div id="i194_16"> </div> +<div id="i194_17"> </div> +<div id="i194_18"> </div> +<div id="i194_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">F</span> +all the numerous species of large game to be +found in the far West, there is none whose +pursuit furnishes grander sport to the expert +rifleman than the antelope (<i>Antilocapra +americana</i>). His habitat being the high, +open plains, he may be hunted on horseback, +and with a much greater degree of +comfort than may the deer, elk, bear, and +other species which inhabit the wooded or +mountainous districts. His keen eyesight, +his fine sense of smell, his intense fear of his +natural enemy, man, however, render him the most +difficult of all game animals to approach, and +he must indeed be a skillful hunter who can get +within easy rifle range of the antelope, unless he +happens to have the circumstances of wind and lie of +ground peculiarly in his favor. When the game is +first sighted, even though it be one, two, or three +miles away, you must either dismount and picket +your horse, or find cover in some coulee or draw, +where you can ride entirely out of sight of the quarry. +But even under such favorable circumstances it is +not well to attempt to ride very near them. Their +sense of hearing is also very acute, and should your +horse's hoof or shoe strike a loose rock, or should he +<span class="pagenum">[195]</span> +snort or neigh, the game is likely to catch the sound +while you are yet entirely out of sight and faraway, +and when you finally creep cautiously to the top of +the ridge from which you expect a favorable shot, +you may find the game placidly looking for you +from the top of another ridge a mile or two farther +away.</p> + +<p>But we will hope that you are to have better luck +than this. To start with, we will presume that you +are an expert rifleman; that you are in the habit of +making good scores at the butts; that at 800, 900, +and 1,000 yards you frequently score 200 to 210 out +of a possible 225 points. We will also suppose that +you are a hunter of some experience; that you have +at least killed a good many deer in the States, but +that this is your first trip to the plains. You have +learned to estimate distances, however, even in this +rare atmosphere, and possess good judgment as to +windage. You have brought your Creedmoor rifle +along, divested, of course, of its Venier sight, wind-guage, +and spirit-level, and in their places you have +fitted a Beach combination front sight and Lyman +rear sight. Besides these you have the ordinary +open step sight attached to the barrel just in front of +the action. This is not the best arm for antelope hunting; +a Winchester express with the same sights +would be much better; but this will answer very well.</p> + +<p>We camped last night on the bank of a clear, +rapid stream that gurgles down from the mountain, +and this morning are up long before daylight; +have eaten our breakfasts, saddled our horses, +and just as the gray of dawn begins to show +over the low, flat prairie to the east of us, we +<span class="pagenum">[196]</span> +mount, and are ready for the start. The wind is from +the northeast. That suits us very well, for in that +direction, about a mile away, there are some low +foot-hills that skirt the valley in which we are +camped. In or just beyond these we are very likely +to find antelope, and they will probably be coming +toward the creek this morning for water.</p> +</div> + +<p>We put spurs to our horses and gallop away. A +brisk and exhilarating ride of ten minutes brings us +to the foot-hills, and then we rein up and ride +slowly and cautiously to near the top of the first one. +Here we dismount, and, picketing our ponies, we +crawl slowly and carefully to the apex. By this +time it is almost fully daylight. We remove our +hats, and peer cautiously through the short, scattering +grass on the brow of the hill.</p> + +<p>Do you see anything?</p> + +<p>No; nothing but prairie and grass.</p> + +<p>No? Hold! What are those small, gray objects +away off yonder to the left? I think I saw one of +them move. And now, as the light grows stronger, +I can see white patches on them. Yes, they are +antelope. They are busily feeding, and we may +raise our heads slightly and get a more favorable +view. One, two, three—there are five of them—two +bucks, a doe, and two kids. And you will observe +that they are nearly in the centre of a broad stretch +of table-land.</p> + +<p>"But," you say, "may we not wait here a little +while until they come nearer to us?"</p> + +<p>Hardly. You see they are intent on getting their +breakfast. There is a heavy frost on the grass, +which moistens it sufficiently for present purposes, +<span class="pagenum">[197]</span> +and it may be an hour or more before they will start +for water. It won't pay us to wait so long, for we +shall most likely find others within that time that +we can get within range of without waiting for them. +So you may as well try them from here.</p> + +<p>Now your experience at the butts may serve you +a good turn. After taking a careful look over the +ground, you estimate the distance at 850 yards, and +setting up your Beach front and Lyman rear sights, +you make the necessary elevation. There is a brisk +wind blowing from the right, and you think it necessary +to hold off about three feet. We are now +both lying prone upon the ground. You face the +game, and support your rifle at your shoulder by +resting your elbows on the ground. The sun is now +shining brightly, and you take careful aim at that +old buck that stands out there at the left. At the +report of your rifle a cloud of dust rises from a point +about a hundred yards this side of him, and a little +to the left, showing that you have underestimated +both the distance and the force of the wind—things +that even an old hunter is liable to do occasionally.</p> + +<p>We both lie close, and the animals have not yet +seen us. They make a few jumps, and stop all in a +bunch. The cross-wind and long distance prevent +them from knowing to a certainty where the report +comes from, and they don't like to run just yet, lest +they may run toward the danger instead of away +from it. You make another half-point of elevation, +hold a little farther away to the right, and try them +again. This time the dirt rises about twenty feet +beyond them, and they jump in every direction. +That was certainly a close call, and the bullet evidently +<span class="pagenum">[198]</span> +whistled uncomfortably close to several of +them. They are now thoroughly frightened. You +insert another cartridge, hurriedly draw a bead on +the largest buck again, and fire. You break dirt +just beyond him, and we can't tell for the life of us +how or on which side of him your bullet passed. It +is astonishing how much vacant space there is round +an antelope, anyway. This time they go, sure. +They have located the puff of smoke, and are gone +with the speed of the wind away to the west. But +don't be discouraged, my friend. You did some +clever shooting, some <i>very</i> clever shooting, and a +little practice of that kind will enable you to score +before night.</p> + +<p>We go back to our horses, mount, and gallop +away again across the table-land. A ride of another +mile brings us to the northern margin of this plateau, +and to a more broken country. Here we dismount and +picket our horses again. We ascend a high butte, +and from the top of it we can see three more antelope +about a mile to the north of us; but this time they +are in a hilly, broken country, and the wind is coming +directly from them to us. We shall be able to +get a shot at them at short range. So we cautiously +back down out of sight, and then begins the tedious +process of stalking them. We walk briskly along +around the foot of a hill for a quarter of a mile, to +where it makes a turn that would carry us too far +out of our course. We must cross this hill, and +after looking carefully at the shape and location of +it, we at last find a low point in it where by lying +flat down we can crawl over it without revealing ourselves +to the game. It is a most tedious and painful +<span class="pagenum">[199]</span> +piece of work, for the ground is almost covered with +cactus and sharp flinty rocks, and our hands and +knees are terribly lacerated. But every rose has its +thorn, and nearly every kind of sport has something +unpleasant connected with it occasionally; and our +reward, if we get it, will be worth the pain it costs +us. With such reflections and comments, and with +frequent longing looks at the game, we kill time till +at last the critical part of our work is done, and we +<span class="pagenum">[200]</span> +can arise and descend in a comfortable but cautious +walk into another draw.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_199.jpg" alt="199" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A PORTRAIT.</p> + +<p>This we follow for about two hundred yards, until +we think we are as near our quarry as we can +get. We turn to the right, cautiously ascend the +hill, remove our hats, and peer over, and there, sure +enough, are our antelope quietly grazing, utterly +oblivious to the danger that threatens them. They +have not seen, heard, or scented us, so we have +ample time to plan an attack. You take the standing +shot at the buck, and together we will try and +take care of the two does afterward. At this short +distance you don't care for the peep and globe sights, +and wisely decide to use the plain open ones. This +time you simply kneel, and then edge up until you +can get a good clear aim over the apex of the ridge +in this position. The buck stands broadside to +you, and at the crack of your rifle springs into +the air, and falls all in a heap, pierced through the +heart.</p> + +<p>And now for the two does. They are flying over +the level stretch of prairie with the speed of an arrow, +and are almost out of sure range now. You turn +loose on that one on the right, and I will look after +the one on the left. Our rifles crack together, and +little clouds of dust rising just beyond tell us that, +though we have both missed, we have made close +calls. I put in about three shots to your one, owing +to my rifle being a repeater, while you must load +yours at each shot. At my fourth shot my left-fielder +doubles up and goes down with a broken +neck; and although you have fairly "set the ground +afire"—to use a Western phrase—around your +<span class="pagenum">[201]</span> +right-fielder, you have not had the good fortune +to stop her, and she is now out of sight behind a +low ridge.</p> + +<p>But you have the better animal of the two, and +have had sport enough for the first morning. We +will take the entrails out of these two, lash them +across our horses behind our saddles, go to camp, +and rest through the heat of the day; for this September +sun beams down with great power in midday, +even though the nights are cool and frosty.</p> + +<p>And now, as we have quite a long ride to camp, +and as we are to pass over a rather monotonous +prairie country <i>en route</i>, I will give you a point or +two on flagging antelope, as we ride along, that may +be useful to you at some time. Fine sport may +frequently be enjoyed in this way. If you can find +a band that have not been hunted much, and are not +familiar with the wiles of the white man, you will have +little trouble in decoying them within rifle range +by displaying to them almost any brightly-colored +object. They have as much curiosity as a woman, +and will run into all kinds of danger to investigate +any strange object they may discover. They have +been known to follow an emigrant or freight wagon, +with a white cover, several miles, and the Indian often +brings them within reach of his arrow or bullet +by standing in plain view wrapped in his red blanket. +A piece of bright tin or a mirror answers the same +purpose on a clear day. Almost any conspicuous or +strange-looking object will attract them; but the +most convenient as well as the most reliable at all +times is a little bright-red flag.</p> + +<p>On one occasion I was hunting in the Snowy Mountains, +<span class="pagenum">[202]</span> +in Northern Montana, with S. K. Fishel, the +government scout, and Richard Thomas, the packer, +from Fort Maginnis. We had not been successful in +finding game there, and on our way back to the post +camped two days on the head of Flat Willow creek, +near the foot of the mountains, to hunt antelopes. +As night approached several small bands of them +came toward the creek, but none came within range +of our camp during daylight, and we did not go +after them that night, but were up and at them +betimes the next morning.</p> + +<p>I preferred to hunt alone, as I always do when +after big game, and went out across a level flat to +some low hills north of camp. When I ascended +the first of these I saw a handsome buck antelope +on the prairie half a mile away. I made a long +detour to get to leeward of him, and meantime had +great difficulty in keeping him from seeing me. But +by careful maneuvering I finally got into a draw +below him, and found the wind blowing directly +from him to me. In his neighborhood were some +large, ragged volcanic rocks, and getting in line +with one of these I started to stalk him. He was +feeding, and as I moved cautiously forward I could +frequently see his nose or rump show up at one side +or the other of the rock. I would accordingly glide +to right or left, as necessary, and move on. Finally, +I succeeded in reaching the rock, crawled carefully +up to where I could see over it, and there, sure +enough, stood the handsome old fellow not more +than fifty yards away, still complacently nipping +the bunch-grass.</p> + +<p>"Ah, my fine laddie," I said to myself, "you'll +<span class="pagenum">[203]</span> +never know what hurt you;" and resting the muzzle +of the rifle on the rock, I took a fine, steady aim for +his heart and turned the bullet loose. There was a +terrific roar; the lead tore up a cloud of dust and +went screaming away over the hills, while, to my +utter astonishment, the antelope went sailing across +the prairie with the speed of a greyhound. I sprang +to my feet, pumped lead after him at a lively rate, +and, though I tore the ground up all around him, +never touched a hair. And what annoyed me most +was that, owing to some peculiar condition of the +atmosphere, the smoke of each shot hung in front of +me long enough to prevent me from seeing just +where my bullets struck, and, for the life of me, I +could not tell whether I was shooting over or under +the game!</p> + +<p>I went back over the hill to my horse, with my +heart full of disappointment and my magazine only +half full of cartridges. I loaded up, however, +mounted, and, as I rode away in search of more +game, I could occasionally hear the almost whispered +"puff, puff" of Fishel's and Thomas's rifles +away to the south and west, which brought me the +cheering assurance that they were also having fun, +and also assured me that we should not be without +meat for supper and breakfast.</p> + +<p>I soon sighted a band of about thirty antelopes, +and riding into a coulee dismounted, picketed my +horse, and began another crawl. In due time I +reached the desired "stand," within about eighty +yards of them, and, picking out the finest buck in +the bunch, again took a careful, deliberate aim and +fired, scoring another clear miss. The band, +<span class="pagenum">[204]</span> +instead of running away, turned and ran directly +toward me, and, circling, slightly, passed within +thirty yards of me, drawn out in single file. It was +a golden opportunity and I felt sure I should kill +half a dozen of them at least; but, alas! for fleeting +hopes. I knew not the frailty of the support on +which I built my expectations. I fanned them as long +as there was a cartridge in my magazine, and had +to endure the intense chagrin of seeing the last one +of them go over a ridge a mile away safe and +sound.</p> + +<p>I was dumb. If there had been anyone there to +talk to, I don't think I could have found a word in +the language to express my feelings. As before, the +smoke prevented me from seeing just where my bullets +struck the ground, but I felt sure they must be +striking very close to the game. I sat down, pondered, +and examined my rifle. I could see nothing +wrong with it, and felt sure it must be perfect, for +within the past week I had killed a deer with it at +170 yards and had shaved the heads off a dozen +grouse at short range. I was, therefore, forced to +the conclusion that I had merely failed to exercise +proper care in holding. I returned to my horse, +mounted, and once more set out in search of game, +determined to kill the next animal I shot at or +leave the country.</p> + +<p>I rode away to the west about two miles, and +from the top of a high hill saw another band of forty +or fifty antelopes on a table-land. I rode around +till I got within about two hundred yards of them, +when I left my horse under cover of a hill and again +began to sneak on the unsuspecting little creatures. +<span class="pagenum">[205]</span> +They were near the edge of the table, and from just +beyond them the formation fell abruptly away into +the valley some fifty feet. I crawled up this bluff +until within about forty yards of the nearest antelope, +and then, lying flat upon the ground, I placed +my rifle in position for firing, and, inch by inch, +edged up over the apex of the bluff until within +fair view of the game. Again selecting the best +buck—for I wanted a good head for mounting—I +drew down on his brown side until I felt sure that +if there had been a silver dollar hung on it I could +have driven it through him. Confidently expecting +to see him drop in his tracks, I touched the trigger. +But, alas! I was doomed to still further disgrace. +When the smoke lifted, my coveted prize was speeding +away with the rest of the herd.</p> + +<p>I simply stood, with my lower jaw hanging down, +and looked after them till they were out of sight. +Then I went and got my horse and went to camp. +Sam and Dick were there with the saddles of three +antelopes. When I told them what I had been +doing, they tried to console me, but I wouldn't be +consoled. After dinner, Sam picked up my rifle +and looked it over carefully.</p> + +<p>"Why, look here, you blooming idiot," said he. +"No wonder you couldn't kill at short range. The +wedge has slipped up under your rear sight two +notches. She's elevated for 350 yards, and at that +rate would shoot about a foot high at a hundred +yards." I looked and found it even so. Then I +offered him and Dick a dollar each if they would +kick me, but they wouldn't.</p> + +<p>Sam said good-naturedly: "Come, go with me +<span class="pagenum">[206]</span> +and get the head of the buck I killed. It's a very +handsome one, and only two miles from camp."</p> + +<p>I said I didn't want any heads for my own use +unless I could kill their owners myself, but would +take this one home for a friend, so we saddled our +horses and started.</p> + +<p>As we reached the top of a hill about a mile from +camp a large buck that was grazing ahead of us +jumped and ran away to what he seemed to consider +a safe distance, and stopped to look at us. Sam +generously offered me the shot, and springing out +of my saddle I threw down my rifle, took careful +aim and fired. At the crack the buck turned just +half way round, but was unable to make a single +jump and sank dead in his tracks.</p> + +<p>Sam is ordinarily a quiet man, but he fairly +shouted at the result of my shot. I paced the distance +carefully to where the carcass lay, and it was +exactly 290 steps. The buck was standing broadside +to me and I had shot him through the heart. Of +course, it was a scratch. I could not do it again perhaps +in twenty shots, and yet when I considered that +I shot for one single animal and got him I could not +help feeling a little proud of it. As we approached +the animal, not knowing just where I had hit him, +I held my rifle in readiness, but Sam said:</p> + +<p>"Oh, you needn't be afraid of his getting up. +One of those Winchester express bullets is all an +antelope needs, no matter what part of the body you +hit him in."</p> + +<p>This old fellow had a fine head, and we took it +off, and now as I write it gazes down upon me with +those large, lustrous black eyes, from its place on +<span class="pagenum">[207]</span> +the wall, as proudly and curiously as it did there on +the prairie when I looked at it through the sights of +my Winchester. His portrait adorns page 199 of +this book, and though the artist has treated it with a +master's hand, it does not possess the lordly beaming, +the fascinating grace, the timid beauty that +distinguished the living animal.</p> + +<p>It was so late when we got this one dressed that +we decided to return to camp at once.</p> + +<p>The curiosity which is so prominent a feature in the +antelope's nature costs many a one of them his life, +and is taken advantage of by the hunter in various +ways. When we reached camp that afternoon Dick +told us how he had taken advantage of it. He had +seen a small band on a level stretch of prairie where +there was no possible way of getting within range +of them, and having heard that if a man would lie +down on his back, elevate his feet as high as possible, +and swing them back and forth through the +air, that it would attract antelopes, decided to try +it. But the antelopes of this section had evidently +never seen soap boxes or bales of hay floating +through the air, and had no desire to cultivate a +closer acquaintance with such frightful looking +objects as he exhibited to their astonished gaze. +And Dick said that when he turned to see if they +had yet come within shooting distance they were +about a mile away, and judging from the cloud of +dust they were leaving behind them seemed to be +running a race to see which could get out of the +country first.</p> + +<p>The next morning Sam and I went together and +Dick alone in another direction. During the forenoon +<span class="pagenum">[208]</span> +I shot a buck through both fore legs, cutting +one off clean and paralyzing the other. Sam said +not to shoot him again and he would catch him, and +putting spurs to his horse was soon galloping alongside +of the quarry. He caught him by one horn and +held him until I came up. The little fellow pranced +wildly about, and bleated pitifully, but a stroke of +the hunting knife across his throat soon relieved his +suffering.</p> + +<p>We then got the head from the buck Sam had +killed the day before, and returned to camp about +11 o'clock a. m.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we rode out together again, and +had not gone far when we saw five of the bright little +animals we were hunting on a hill-side. They were +too far away for anything like a sure shot, but were +in such a position that we could get no nearer to +them. They stood looking at us, and Sam told me +to try them. I had little hope of making a hit, but +dismounting took a shot off hand, holding for the +shoulder of a good sized buck. When the gun +cracked there was a circus. I had missed my aim +so far as to cut both his hind legs off just below the +knee. The buck commenced bucking. First he +stood on his fore feet, got his hind legs up in the air +and shook the stumps. Then he tried to stand on +them and paw the air with his fore feet, but lost his +balance and fell over backward. He got up, jumped +first to one side, then to the other, then forward. +Meantime Sam rode toward him, and he tried to run. +In this his motions were more like those of a rocking +horse than of a living animal. The race was a +short one. Sam soon rode up to him, caught him +<span class="pagenum">[209]</span> +by a horn and held him till I came up and cut the +little fellow's throat. Then Sam said that was a +very long shot, and he would like to know just what +the distance was. He went back to where I stood +when I shot, stepped the distance to where the +antelope stood, and found it to be 362 paces.</p> + +<p>We rode on a mile further and saw a young antelope +lying down in some tall rye-grass. We could +just see his horns and ears, and though he appeared +to be looking at us he seemed to think himself +securely hidden, for he made no movement toward +getting up. I told Sam to shoot this time, but he +said, "No, you shoot. I live in this country and +can get all the shooting I want any time. You have +come a long way out here to have some fun. Turn +loose on him." And slipping off my horse I knelt +down to get a knee rest, but found that from that +position I could not see the game at all, and was +compelled to shoot off hand again. Raising up I +drew a bead on one of the horns, and then lowering +the muzzle to where I thought the body should be, +pressed the trigger. There was a lively commotion +in the grass, but the buck never got out of his bed. +The ball went in at one shoulder and out at the +opposite hip. On stepping the distance we found it +to be only 125 yards.</p> + +<p>And now, having in a measure wiped out the disgrace +of the previous day's work and secured all the +meat, skins, and heads that our pack-mules could +carry, we returned to camp and the next day went +back to Fort Maginnis.</p> + +<p>These bright little creatures, though naturally +timid, sometimes show great courage in defense of +<span class="pagenum">[210]</span> +their young. I once saw a coyote sneak from behind +a hill toward a herd of antelope. Instantly there was +a grand rush of all the adult members of the band, +male and female, toward the intruder, and when +they had gotten in front of the kids they stopped, +with bristles erect, ears thrown forward, and heads +lowered, presenting a most warlike and belligerent +appearance. The coyote, when he saw himself confronted +with this solid phalanx, suddenly stopped, +eyed his opponents for a few moments, and then, +apparently overawed at the superiority of numbers +and warlike attitude of his intended prey, slunk +reluctantly away in search of some weaker victim. +When he was well out of sight, the older members +of the band turned to their young, caressed them, +and resumed their grazing.</p> + +<p>The speed of the antelope is probably not excelled +by that of any other animal in this country, wild +or domestic, except the greyhound, and, in fact, it +is only the finest and fleetest of these that can pull +down an antelope in a fair race.</p> + +<p>In the little village of Garfield, Kansas, there +lived a man some years ago—the proprietor of a +hotel—who had two pet antelopes. The village +dogs had several times chased them, but had always +been distanced. One day a Mexican came to town +who had with him two large, handsome greyhounds. +Immediately on riding up to the hotel he saw the +antelopes in the yard, and told the proprietor gruffly +that he had better put "them critters" in the corral, +or his dogs would kill them. The proprietor said +he guessed the "critters" were able to take care +of themselves, especially if the dogs did not spring +<span class="pagenum">[211]</span> +upon them unawares. This aroused the Mexican's +ire, and he promptly offered to wager a goodly sum +that his dogs would pull down one or both of +the antelopes within a mile. The challenge was +accepted, the stakes deposited, the antelopes turned +into the street, and the "greaser" told his dogs +to "take'em."</p> + +<p>The dogs sprang at the antelopes, but the latter +had by this time reached a vacant lot across the +street. They started off down the river. For a +distance of four miles the river bottom was an open +prairie, and as level as a floor. As the quartette +sped over this grand natural race-course, the whole +populace of the town turned out <i>en masse</i> to see the +race. Men and boys shouted, and ladies waved +their handkerchiefs. Betting was rife, the natives +offering two to one on the antelopes, the Mexican +and the few other strangers in town being eager +takers. It was nip and tuck, neither animals gaining +nor losing perceptibly, and when at last the four +went round a bend in the river four miles away, and +were hidden by a bluff, the game was, as nearly as +could be seen by the aid of good field-glasses, just +about the same distance ahead of the dogs as when +they left town.</p> + +<p>Some hours later the dogs returned, so tired they +could scarcely walk. The Mexican eagerly looked +for hair on their teeth, and although he could find +none, was confident that his dogs had killed the +antelopes. A mounted expedition to search for the +carcasses and settle the question was agreed upon, +but as it was too near night to start when the dogs +returned, it was arranged to go in the morning. But +<span class="pagenum">[212]</span> +when the parties got up the next morning they found +the antelopes quietly grazing in the hotel yard. +The Mexican left town in disgust followed by his +lame, sore-footed dogs, and muttering that he +"never seed no varmints run like them things did."</p> + +<p>The antelope, one of the brightest and most graceful +and beautiful of all our Western game animals, +is fast disappearing from our broad plains, owing to +the ceaseless slaughter of it that is carried on by +"skin hunters," Indians, "foreign noblemen," and +others who come to this country year after year and +spend the entire summer in hunting. Hundreds +of them are killed every summer by this latter class, +and left to rot where they fall, not a pound of meat, +a skin, or even a head being taken from them. I +have seen with my own eyes this butchery carried +on for years past, and know whereof I speak.</p> + +<p>Nearly all the Territories have stringent laws +intended to prohibit this class of slaughter, but in +these sparsely settled countries the provisions for +enforcing them are so meagre that these men violate +them day after day and year after year with impunity. +This is one of the instances in which prohibition +does not prohibit. And what I have said of +the antelope is true of all the large game of the +great West. The elk, deer, mountain sheep, etc., +are being slaughtered by the hundreds every +year—tenfold faster than the natural increase. And +the time is near, <i>very</i> near, when all these noble +species will be extinct. The sportsman or naturalist +who desires to preserve a skin or head of any +of them must procure it very soon or he will not +be able to get it at all.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[213]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<p class="h3">BUFFALO HUNTING ON THE TEXAS PLAINS.</p> + +<div class="i213"> +<div id="i213_0"> </div> +<div id="i213_1"> </div> +<div id="i213_2"> </div> +<div id="i213_3"> </div> +<div id="i213_4"> </div> +<div id="i213_5"> </div> +<div id="i213_6"> </div> +<div id="i213_7"> </div> +<div id="i213_8"> </div> +<div id="i213_9"> </div> +<div id="i213_10"> </div> +<div id="i213_11"> </div> +<div id="i213_12"> </div> +<div id="i213_13"> </div> +<div id="i213_14"> </div> +<div id="i213_15"> </div> +<div id="i213_16"> </div> +<div id="i213_17"> </div> +<div id="i213_18"> </div> +<div id="i213_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HE</span> +"Texas boom" was at its +height in 1876, and there was +a grand rush of emigrants of +all nationalities and conditions +of people to the then New Eldorado. +Thousands of men went +down there to make money. Many +of them had not the remotest idea +how this was to be done, but from +the glowing stories afloat regarding +the resources of that wonderful country, +they felt sure it could be done in +some way. The little town of Fort Worth was then +on the frontier—that is, it was one of the most +westerly towns having railroad communication, and +was therefore one of the important outfitting points +for parties going into the wilds. A great many +were going further west, on all kinds of expeditions, +some in search of minerals, some in search of choice +lands, some to hunt the large game which was then +abundant.</p> + +<p>The village consisted of a public square, around +and fronting on which were a row of cheap, one-story, +log and frame buildings, most of which were +occupied as saloons and gambling houses. But +<span class="pagenum">[215]</span> +there were a few respectable general stores, half a +dozen so-called hotels, shops, etc. The town was +full to overflowing with gamblers, rustlers, hunters, +cowboys, Mexican rancheros, northern sight-seers, +adventurers, commercial travelers, etc.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_214.jpg" alt="214" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">AT BAY</p> + +<p>All day and all night could be heard the call of +the <i>croupier</i> at the gambling-table as he announced +the numbers and combinations that the wheel or +cards produced in the course of the manipulations +to which his deft fingers subjected them.</p> + +<p>Hot words often came from fortunate and unfortunate +gamesters, and the short, sharp report of the six-shooter, +the shouts of combatants, the groans of +wounded or dying men, the clatter of heavy boots +or spurs on the feet of stampeded spectators were +sounds that, nearly every night, greeted the ears +of the populace.</p> + +<p>Mob law reigned supreme, and there was little +effort on the part of the village authorities to punish +offenders. Sometimes Judge Lynch's court was +convened on short notice, and someone who had +committed an unusually flagrant violation of the +"law of honor" and had killed a man without due +provocation, was hurriedly tried and strung up to +the nearest tree.</p> + +<p>One evening in the month of November, the excitement +was varied by the arrival of a "bull-train"<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> +of ten wagons loaded with buffalo skins. They +drove to the warehouse of the largest trader in the +<span class="pagenum">[216]</span> +place to unload, and were quickly surrounded by a +crowd of eager inquirers who sought for news from +the front.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> What is known on the frontier as a "bull-train" is a number of +ponderous wagons, drawn by from six to ten yoke of oxen each, +used for hauling heavy freight across the plains.</p></div> + +<p>Some inquired as to the nature of the country, +some as to the progress of settlements, some as to +friends who were at the front, and many as to the +buffalo herd from which the five thousand skins +brought in by this train had been taken.</p> + +<p>"The main herd," said the wagon boss, "is two +hundred miles west on the headwaters of the Brazos +river."</p> + +<p>"How large a herd is it?"</p> + +<p>"Nobody knows that, for none of 'em has took +time to ride to the west end of it."</p> + +<p>"Are there many hunters there?" inquired a +young St. Louis lawyer.</p> + +<p>"Wall, you'd reckon," said the boss. "Tha's +'bout a hundred and fifty white hunters, and more'n +a thousand red-skins."</p> + +<p>"When do you start back?"</p> + +<p>"To-morrow mornin', if I can keep my bull +punchers from gettin' full of pizen."</p> + +<p>The crowd gradually scattered, while a little knot +of the more respectable element repaired to the hotel +to discuss the question of organizing a hunting +party to go to the buffalo range. In an hour they +agreed to go, the time for the start being fixed for +the morning of the second day following.</p> + +<p>And then the busy notes of preparation were +heard throughout the town. But few of the men +who decided to go were prepared for such a trip, +and it was necessary for most of them to buy or hire +complete outfits. Horses were the first and most +<span class="pagenum">[217]</span> +important requisite. The corral (the frontier livery +stable) was first visited, and spirited bidding was +indulged in for the choicest animals. The stock +here was soon exhausted, and the demand was not +yet supplied. Then all the horses and ponies standing +tied to the railing around the public square +were inspected, and any that were for sale were +tested. Word having been circulated that a hunting +party was outfitting, a large number of ponies were +brought in from neighboring camps and ranches. +The party was soon creditably mounted, though the +number had increased to double that originally +planned.</p> + +<p>Next, teams must be employed. A number of +these were also found, and five were engaged, their +owners agreeing to work for seven dollars a day +"and found."</p> + +<p>Guns and ammunition were also in demand, and +enough were offered to arm a regiment. A number +of hunters had recently come in from the front and +were selling off their outfits. Every store and hotel +had from one to half a dozen guns in pawn, and one +dealer had a number of new ones. Anything in the +shape of a rifle could be had. Old Kentucky muzzle-loaders, +"five feet long in the barrel;" condemned +army carbines of Spencer, Sharps, and other patterns; +Springfield muskets; Henry and Winchester +rifles; and a few of the old reliable Sharps "buffalo +guns" of 45 and 50 calibre, and using 100 to 120 +grains of powder. These latter were taken at good +figures by the more knowing ones, and the best of +the others selected by the less intelligent buyers +until all were fairly well armed. +<span class="pagenum">[218]</span></p> + +<p>Then a guide was needed, and a Chicago newspaper +correspondent, who was to be a member of +the expedition, was deputed to employ one. As +usual in frontier towns, there were plenty of them, +each one of whom, in his own estimation, was the best +in the whole country. Each claimed to know every +foot of the ground in question, to be able to speak +the language of every Indian tribe on the frontier, +to be a crack shot and intrepid horseman, afraid of +nothing, and ready for any undertaking, no matter +how hazardous.</p> + +<p>Inquiry among the more reliable citizens of the +town as to who was best suited for the uses of the +present enterprise resulted in the choice of a rather +quiet and attractive-looking young man bearing the +euphonious pseudonym of "Red River Frank." He +was clad in the conventional buckskin suit, and his +long glossy black hair hung in heavy curls down to +his shoulders. He was six feet two inches in height, +straight as an arrow, and had a deep, clear gray eye; +rode a good sized spirited mustang, and sat in his +saddle like a life-trained trooper.</p> + +<p>At the time appointed for the departure, the +party, which had now swelled to thirty-two men all +told, assembled in the public square. The wagons +were loaded with the tents, bedding, food, and other +necessary provisions for the trip, which, it was +arranged, should occupy about six weeks. At ten +o'clock the party rode out of town on the road +leading west, taking with them the hearty good +wishes of the assembled throng. They crossed a +narrow belt of timber and emerged upon a stretch of +gently undulating prairie, which was densely covered +<span class="pagenum">[219]</span> +with a luxuriant growth of gramma grass, and +over which they traveled at a lively gait until after +sundown before again reaching timber and water. +Then they camped on a small creek where food, +fuel, and good water were abundant. The tents +were pitched, supper prepared and eaten, and then +the party assembled around a large camp fire.</p> + +<p>The lawyer arose, and requesting the attention of +the men, said that, as they were going on a long +journey into a wild country, which was infested +with hostile Indians and lawless white men, where +it might be necessary for this party to defend themselves +and their property by force of arms, it was +thought best to effect a permanent and binding +organization, which would insure unity of action +throughout the trip, and especially in the event of +any such trouble as he had intimated might arise. +He therefore nominated as chief executive officer +of the expedition, Captain W. H. Enders, who, he +said, had done good and faithful service during the +late war; who, since the war, had traveled extensively +in the West, and who was now engaged in +cattle raising in Kansas. Several men seconded the +nomination, and Captain Enders was unanimously +chosen by acclamation.</p> + +<p>He arose and thanked his friends, modestly and +gracefully, for this mark of their esteem and confidence, +stating that he had no desire to exercise any +arbitrary or unnecessary authority over them, but +should only order them in so far as safety and +success in their undertaking seemed necessary. He +asked that all who were willing to stand by him and +obey his orders to this extent should so pledge +<span class="pagenum">[220]</span> +themselves by rising to their feet. The entire party +arose. Then their leader thanked them again, and +their informal deliberation ended.</p> + +<p>The captain detailed four men to act as a guard +over the camp and stock during the night, each +watching two hours and then calling up the one +who was to relieve him, and this precaution was +followed up throughout the expedition.</p> + +<p>The men were tired from their long ride, and +sought the comfort of their blankets at an early +hour. As they had a ten days' journey before them +to reach the buffalo range, it was agreed that they +should start early each morning, and the camp +fires were therefore ordered to be lit at four o'clock.</p> + +<p>The journey was uneventful for several days. +The road upon which the party had first traveled +bearing off to the southwest, and the course of our +party being due west, they left it. "Red River +Frank" now sustained his good reputation as a +guide by selecting with excellent skill and judgment +the best portion of the country to travel in, +avoiding the numerous swamps and sandy plains, +finding safe and easy fords across the streams, and +selecting good camp sites for each night.</p> + +<p>They were now in a country where deer and turkeys +were abundant, and their tables were bountifully +supplied with fresh meat. They camped on +the night of November 12 in a clump of tall cottonwood +trees that skirted a small creek. Just at dusk +a great rush of wings was heard in the air, and, +looking in the direction from whence the sound +came, a large flock of wild turkeys was seen sailing +directly toward their camp, and, a moment later, +<span class="pagenum">[221]</span> +they lit in the trees amongst which our party was +camped. Instantly every rifle was brought forth, +and the whole camp was ablaze with burning powder. +The smoke floated up amongst the dazed and panic-stricken +birds, who fluttered wildly and aimlessly +from tree to tree, knocking their wings against each +other and the dead limbs, and making a most frightful +noise.</p> + +<p>The hunters scattered and tongues of flame shot +up from every quarter. Volley after volley was +fired. The roar of the rifles interspersed with the +"thud" and "crash" of falling birds, the shouts of +the excited throng, the neighing of terrified horses, +the barking of dogs, turned the quiet camp of a few +moments ago into a veritable pandemonium. The +slaughter went on for, perhaps, twenty minutes, +when the more humane became ashamed of themselves +and quit. Finally they prevailed upon their +friends to desist, and the dead game was gathered +up. Sixty-three of these noble birds had met their +death, and the survivors were allowed to sit quietly +and watch the camp fires till morning, when they +sailed away toward the east.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of that day, Frank and the +journalist were riding in advance of the column +across a level, monotonous stretch of country, where +there was little to attract attention or excite remark. +They had already become warm friends and talked +confidentially on many subjects, but Frank had +said nothing of his past history, yet his strange +demeanor at times had excited in the mind of +the newspaper man an anxiety to know what +had moved this refined, generous, scholarly young +<span class="pagenum">[222]</span> +man to adopt a life so uncivilized as the one he was +living.</p> + +<p>"Frank," he finally said, "I have no wish to +question you on a subject that you may not wish to +speak on, yet I have observed many traits in you +that are not found in other men of your calling. I +am of the opinion that you have been bred in a very +different sphere of life from this in which you now +live. If you have no objection, I should like to +know what motive prompted you to adopt this wild +life."</p> + +<p>He bit his lip and hesitated. Finally, after some +moments, he said:</p> + +<p>"Well, I'll tell you how it came about, and I'll +make the story brief. It is similar to that of many +another scout, in general, but different in detail, +perhaps, from any of them. I was born and bred in +an Eastern city, and was being educated for the +ministry. My father failed in business and I was +compelled to leave school. He gathered what little +was left of his shattered fortune, and with his family +emigrated to the far West. There he engaged in +farming on what was then the frontier, but before +we had been there six months we were awakened one +morning at daylight by the yells of savage Indians, +and, looking out, beheld them all around us. They +were Comanches.</p> + +<p>"Our house was burned. My father was tomahawked +and scalped before our eyes, and my mother, +my sister (who was older than I), and myself were +carried into captivity. I was fortunate enough to +escape. I returned and organized a pursuing party, +but our efforts were fruitless, and a few months +<span class="pagenum">[223]</span> +later I learned from a half-breed that death had +relieved the sufferings of my mother and sister. +That was twenty years ago. I was fifteen years old +then, and from that day to this I have been on the +trail of that tribe. I boast of nothing, but each year +I feel better satisfied with my work. I hope that, in +time, I may feel content to return East and engage +in some lawful and more congenial pursuit."</p> + +<p>At that instant a deer bounded up out of the tall +grass a hundred yards ahead and went prancing +away to the left. Frank caught his rifle from the +sling at his saddle bow and sent a bullet through +its head.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning the hunters came upon +fresh buffalo signs, and in the afternoon a few +stragglers were seen. One was killed in the evening, +and on the creek where they camped that night +fresh Indian camp signs were found. A small herd +of buffalo came to the creek to drink, a mile below, +just after sundown, and various facts indicated +that they were near the main herd. All through +the next day they were in sight of small bands, and +several hunting parties were sighted, some white +and some red. The feed was getting scarce, owing +to its having been eaten down by the game, and at +two o'clock the party camped on Willow creek, a +small tributary of the Brazos river. The main herd +was yet about ten miles away, but the hunters could +not consistently go any nearer for a permanent camp, +and decided to make it here. Two white hunters +visited them in the evening, and told them that a +party of ten Comanches were camped on Turtle +creek seven miles further west. At this intelligence +<span class="pagenum">[225]</span> +Frank's face darkened and his eye gleamed, but he +said nothing. Soon after dark, however, he was +missing, and did not turn up again till near noon the +next day. He had a different horse from the one he +rode away; not so good a one, it is true, and there +were two bullet holes in his coat. He was reticent +and uncommunicative as to where he had been, but +wore a very pleased expression on his countenance, +and was occasionally seen to smile when not talking +with anyone.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_224.jpg" alt="224" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">NATIVE BUFFALO HUNTERS.</p> + +<p>The majority of the hunters mounted and rode +southwest early in the morning. Seven men in one +party sighted a herd of buffaloes numbering about +200, and dismounting, when within a mile, cached +their horses in a coulee, and began a cautious +advance.</p> + +<p>They found a deep and crooked ravine into which +they crawled, and in which they were able to approach +to within about 400 yards of the nearest animals. +A gentle breeze blew from the game toward +the hunters, and taking advantage of the most favorable +point, they crawled up the steep bank to where +they could command a good view of the game. The +"tenderfeet" in the party were in favor of firing a +volley, but an old hunter who had led them +advised them to fire singly, and at intervals of a +minute or two, this plan being much less likely to +frighten the game. He cautioned them to take very +careful aim, to make every shot count, and to wound +as few animals as possible. One slightly wounded +animal, he said, would create more uneasiness among +the herd than ten dead or fatally wounded ones.</p> + +<p>Several of this party were good marksmen, and +<span class="pagenum">[226]</span> +had good strong-shooting, long-range rifles. Though, +they shot heavy charges, yet, the wind in their favor, +at this long distance, the animals would scarcely +hear the reports. The leader advised them to shoot +only at animals broadside, and gave them careful +directions as to elevation and where to aim. Evans +opened the fire with a sixteen-pound 50-calibre +Sharp's. Immediately after the report the emphatic +"thud" of the bullet came back and a large cow was +seen to drop on her knees, get up again, stagger +away a few rods and lie down.</p> + +<p>"Good," said the old hunter. "Now, Pete, +you go."</p> + +<p>"Pete fired, and an old bull whisked his tail, +walked sullenly away, turned around a few times, +and fell dead. Another complimentary remark from +the old hunter, and then he said:</p> + +<p>"Now I guess I'll try one."</p> + +<p>He fired, but to his great chagrin did just what he +had cautioned the others not to do, broke a fore leg +below the knee. This cow commenced to bellow +and "buck," and in an instant the whole herd was +in commotion.</p> + +<p>"Stop her, somebody, stop her, or she'll stampede +the hull bizness!" he said, as he pushed another +bullet into his muzzle loader. By this time she had +stopped broadside, for a moment, at the edge of the +herd, and the journalist, at the order of the boss, drew +a bead on her. The "spat" of the heavy bullet told +of a palpable "hit". She no longer felt like running, +but was not yet down and it took two more bullets to lay +her out. The next shot was a clean miss, so far +as it concerned the animal shot at, but it wounded +<span class="pagenum">[227]</span> +one somewhere in the herd. Then there was more +commotion and it was evident the "stand" was at +an end.</p> + +<p>"Give it to 'em, everybody," the old hunter now +said, and a fusillade followed that soon put them +under full speed.</p> + +<p>The hunters now mounted their horses and made +a "run" on the band that resulted in some very +exciting sport and the death of three more buffaloes. +This over, they returned to the scene of the first +firing and gralloched the seven animals killed "on +the stand." Then they mounted their tired beasts +again and were on the point of starting for camp +when they heard strange noises, and looking toward +the west beheld a great black surging mass, waving +and rolling up across the prairie, half hidden by +great clouds of dust which were only occasionally +blown away by the brisk autumn wind. It was the +great herd of buffalo, and they had been stampeded +by the Indian hunters. The roar of the hoofs upon +the dry earth was like the low and sullen thunder. +The vanguard of the herd was yet more than a mile +away, but the dark line stretched to right and left +almost as far as the eye could reach, and our hunters +saw that instant and precipitate flight was necessary +in order to save their lives. They specially chose the +northward as offering the shortest and best direction +by which to escape the coming avalanche, and sinking +the spurs deep into their terror-stricken beasts, they +flew with the velocity of an arrow across the wild +prairie. A mile was covered in a few seconds, and +yet they were not past the herd, which was rapidly +closing in upon them.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_228.jpg" alt="228" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">THE FIRST RUN.</p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">[229]</span> +They turned their horses' heads partly in the +direction the buffaloes were going and, urging them +to their utmost speed, finally passed the outer line +of the herd just as the leaders passed by. Then, +having reached a place of safety, they dismounted, +and throwing their bridle reins over their arms commenced +to load and fire into the herd with all possible +rapidity, nearly every shot killing or disabling +an animal. It took nearly half an hour for the rolling, +surging, angry horde to pass the point where our +hunters stood, and as the rear guard came in sight +there came a new and still more terrible scene in the +great tragedy.</p> + +<p>More than a hundred Indians were in hot pursuit +of the savage beasts. They were mounted on wild +and almost ungovernable bronchos, who were frothing +at the mouth, charging and cavorting amongst +the fleeing game. The white foam dropped in flakes +and bubbles from all parts of their bodies. Their +nostrils were distended, their eyes flashed fire, and +they seemed as eager as their wild masters to +deal death to the buffaloes. The savage riders +seemed beside themselves with mad, ungovernable +passion.</p> + +<p>Their faces were painted in the most glaring colors, +their bright and many-colored blankets fluttered in +the wind secured to the saddle only by an end or a +corner, their long black hair streaming back like the +pennant at the mast head of a ship, and their deep +black eyes gleamed like coals of fire in a dungeon. +Arrow after arrow flew from deep-strung bows and +sunk to the feathered tip in the quivering flesh of +the shaggy monsters. +<span class="pagenum">[230]</span></p> + +<p>Ponderous spears were hurled with the power and +precision of giants and struck down the defenceless +victims as a sturdy woodman strikes down the frail +sapling in his path.</p> + +<p>"Crack!" "crack!" came from rifles, and +"ping!" "ping!" from carbines and revolvers. +Hundreds of shots were fired by those who carried +firearms, and before these murderous weapons, the +poor bison sank like ripened grain before the reaper's +blade.</p> + +<p>One young warrior, more ardent and fearless than +the rest, had forced his high-strung steed far into +the midst of the solid phalanx, where the horse +was finally impaled upon the horns of a monster +bull. He and his rider were tossed like sheaves of +wheat into the air; then both sank to earth, and +were instantly trodden into the dust.</p> + +<p>At last the great storm had passed, and our friends +watched until it faded away in the distance and +finally disappeared from their view.</p> + +<p>Then came the squaws, the boys, and the old men, +to dispatch the wounded and to skin and cut up the +dead. These were strewn all over the prairie, and +not a tithe of them were, or could be, saved by all +the people, white and red, assembled there.</p> + +<p>Our hunters returned to camp at sunset, where +they met those of their companions who had been +out during the afternoon, and over the evening +camp fire, each related the thrilling incidents which +he had witnessed, or in which he had participated +during the day.</p> + +<p>On the following morning they again started out in +several parties of five or six each and going in various +<span class="pagenum">[231]</span> +directions. Frank and the newspaper man started +with three others, but soon separated from them to +go after a small band which they had sighted about +two miles south of camp.</p> + +<p>When within a proper distance, they dismounted, +picketed their horses in a swale, and stalking to +within about a hundred yards opened fire. A young +cow dropped at the first shot, to all appearances +dead, and the remainder of the band scurried away, +one old bull being badly wounded. The hunters +started to run to the top of a ridge, over which the +game had gone, to get another shot. As they +passed the cow the guide called to his companion to +look out for her, as she was only "creased" and +liable to get up again and charge them. They had +gone but a few rods, when, sure enough, she did +spring to her feet and make a dash at Frank. +He turned to shoot her, but his gun missed fire, and +as he attempted to throw out the cartridge, the action +failed to work, and his gun was, for the moment, +disabled. By this time she was almost on him, and +as his only means of escape, he sprang into a +"washout" (a ditch that had been cut by the +water, some ten feet deep), the sides of which were +perpendicular.</p> + +<p>He called loudly for help, but his friend had not +seen the charge, and was by this time a hundred +yards away. He turned and saw the cow, almost +blind with rage, rapidly jumping back and forth +across the washout, in a mad effort to get at the +guide, but she seemed unwilling to jump down into +it. She was shot through the throat, and the blood, +flowing from her in torrents, had deluged poor +<span class="pagenum">[232]</span> +Frank, until he looked as if he had been at work in +a slaughter-house. The scribe ran back, killed the +cow, and drew his friend from his sanguinary +retreat.</p> + +<p>The guide then repaired his gun, and mounting +their horses they pursued the wounded bull. They +soon found him at bay, and riding up close to him, +commenced firing at him with their revolvers. +Quick as a flash of lightning he made a frightful +charge at the journalist, who, taken by surprise, was +unable to avoid the rush. Both horse and rider +were dashed to the earth. The horse was so badly +injured as to be unable to rise, and as the burly +antagonist made another rush at him, the man was +enabled to seek safety in flight, and before the bull +again turned his attention to the fugitive, the rapid +and well-directed fire of the scout had brought the +shaggy beast to the earth.</p> + +<p>The horse was fatally injured and had to be shot, +so our friends, with one horse between them, took +turns riding and walking to camp.</p> + +<p>This day's killing by the party was large, and +supplied all their wants as to meat, skins, and sport. +The next few days were devoted to jerking meat, +dressing and drying skins, and preparing for the +return journey, and in ten days from the date of +their arrival on the hunting ground, the teams were +all loaded up, camp was broken, and the homeward +march was begun, which progressed uneventfully +from day to day, and was made in safety in about +the same time occupied in going out.</p> + +<p>Twice during the hunt the party were alarmed by +the discovery of Indians lurking about their camp, +<span class="pagenum">[233]</span> +late in the night. The guards discovered them in +both instances, and fired on them, when they beat +a hasty retreat and disappeared in the darkness. It +was not known that their object was anything worse +than pilfering, and yet there was little doubt that +had they found the party all off guard and asleep, +a massacre would have resulted. But, true to their +aboriginal instincts, they did not wish to engage in +a fight with a formidable foe, whom they found ever +ready for such an emergency.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_233.jpg" alt="233" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">PROWLERS.</p> + +<p>Such scenes and such sport as this party enjoyed +were common almost anywhere on the great plains +west of the Missouri river up to a few years ago. +Herds of buffalo extending over a tract of land, as +large as one of the New England States, and numbering +hundreds of thousands of heads, might be found +any day in what was then "buffalo country." An +army officer told me that, when crossing the plains +in 1867 with a company of cavalry, he encountered +a herd that it took his command three days to ride +through, marching about thirty miles a day.</p> + +<p>When two of our transcontinental railways were +<span class="pagenum">[234]</span> +first built it was no uncommon thing for herds of +buffalo to delay trains for several hours in crossing +the tracks, the animals being packed in so close +together that the train could not force a passage +through them.</p> + +<p>But, alas, those days are passed forever. This +noble creature, provided to feed the human multitude +who should people the prairies, is to-day +practically extinct; slaughtered and annihilated by +that jackal of the plains, that coyote in human +shape, the "skin hunter." Hundreds of thousands +of buffaloes were annually killed, their skins sold at +from seventy-five cents to a dollar and a half each, +and the meat which, when properly taken care of, is +equal, if not superior, to the finest domestic beef, +was left to rot on the ground.</p> + +<p>There are scarcely a hundred buffaloes left on the +continent to day in their wild state. A very few +stragglers are known to be in the Panhandle of +Texas, a small bunch in the Yellowstone National +Park, and a few in the British Northwest, but +they are being remorselessly pursued by large numbers +of hunters, and it is safe to say that a year +hence not one will be left in the whole broad +West unless it be those in the park, and they will +escape only in case they stay within the park limits +where they are protected by United States soldiers. +Should they ever stray beyond the bounds of the +park they will all be killed in less than a week.</p> + +<p>Several small bunches have been domesticated by +Western cattlemen, and it is hoped the species may, +by this means, be saved from total extinction. +They are being successfully cross-bred with domestic +<span class="pagenum">[235]</span> +cattle, and an excellent strain of stock is thus +produced, but the grand herds that for ages roamed +at will over the great plains are a thing of the +past.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_235.jpg" alt="235" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[236]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<p class="h3">HUNTING THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT.</p> + +<div class="i236"> +<div id="i236_0"> </div> +<div id="i236_1"> </div> +<div id="i236_2"> </div> +<div id="i236_3"> </div> +<div id="i236_4"> </div> +<div id="i236_5"> </div> +<div id="i236_6"> </div> +<div id="i236_7"> </div> +<div id="i236_8"> </div> +<div id="i236_9"> </div> +<div id="i236_10"> </div> +<div id="i236_11"> </div> +<div id="i236_12"> </div> +<div id="i236_13"> </div> +<div id="i236_14"> </div> +<div id="i236_15"> </div> +<div id="i236_16"> </div> +<div id="i236_17"> </div> +<div id="i236_18"> </div> +<div id="i236_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HERE</span> +is, perhaps, no large mammal in this +country of which the scientific world and +the reading public in general knows so +little as of the Rocky Mountain goat +(<i>Aplocerus Montanus</i>). There are several +reasons for this. First, its limited range. +It is confined to a small area of the Rocky +Mountains, principally west of the main +divide; to Western Montana, Eastern Idaho, +the Cascade Range in Washington Territory, +a small portion of British Columbia, and to Alaska. +Secondly, its habitat is the tops or near the tops of the +highest and most rugged peaks and cliffs, where +none but the hardiest and most daring hunter may +venture in pursuit of it, and so comparatively very +few are ever killed and brought into the settlements. +Third, it can not be successfully domesticated. Its +favorite food is so different from that generally +growing in or near any settlement, the atmosphere +it breathes, the mean temperature in which it lives, +and the ground, or rather rocks, on which it is +accustomed to walk, so widely different from those +surrounding any human habitation, that the few +<span class="pagenum">[237]</span> +young that have been captured and brought down +to the settlements have soon died. So that none of +them are found in parks and zoological gardens, as +are specimens of nearly all other large wild animals.</p> + +<p>There are fewer mounted skins of this animal in +Eastern museums than of any other species indigenous +to this country, and hence the public and +naturalists have had fewer opportunities to study +and become familiar with it than with other wild +mammals. Yet it is one of the most beautiful and +interesting of all our American quadrupeds, and +probably no sportsman or naturalist has ever yet +mustered courage and hardihood enough to go where +he could kill a Rocky Mountain goat without feeling +amply repaid for all the labor and hardship +encountered by being able to behold this mystic +creature in his lofty mountain home. In view of +the limited facilities people have had for studying +this animal a somewhat minute description of it may +not be amiss here.</p> + +<p>In size it is but a trifle larger than the Merino +sheep, which, in fact, it closely resembles in many +respects. The form of its body is robust, fore parts +rather thicker than hinder parts, with a slight hump +over shoulders, similar to that of the American +bison. Its color is entirely white, or, in some +instances, of a light creamy shade. Hair long and +pendant. A beard-like tuft of hair on the chin. +Long coarse hair, more abundant, on shoulders, neck, +and back. Under and intermixed with this long +hair there is a close coat of fine, silky, white wool, +equal in fineness to that of the Cashmere goat. Hair +on face and legs short and without wool. Horns +<span class="pagenum">[238]</span> +(which are present in both sexes) jet black, small, +conical, nearly erect, polished, and curving slightly +backward; ringed or wrinkled at the base, much like +those of the chamois. Muzzle and hoofs also black. +False or accessory hoofs present. Dentition: Incisors, +8 lower; canines, none; molars, 12 upper, 12 lower; +total 32. The mountain goat brings forth two +or three young at a time, usually late in May or +early in June. Slightly gregarious, being frequently +found in small bands in winter, but in summer season +not more than a single family is usually seen +together, and in summer and fall the older males +may frequently be found entirely alone. The nose +is nearly straight, ears rather long, pointed, and +lined with long hair. Tail six to eight inches long, +clothed with long hair. Legs thick and short. +Hoofs grooved on sole and provided with a thick +spongy mass of cartilage in centre, projecting below +the outer edges of hoof, enabling the animal to +cling firmly to steep or smooth rocks. The dimensions +of one adult male specimen measured are as +follows: Length from tip of nose to root of tail, 3 +feet 7 inches; length of tail, 7 inches; length of head, +11-3/4 inches; length of horns, 8-1/2 inches; diameter of +horns at base, 1 inch. Its estimated gross weight is +130 pounds.</p> +</div> + +<p>The food of the mountain goat consists principally, +in summer, of the leaves of the alder and of various +mountain shrubs, and in winter of mosses and +lichens that grow on the rocks.</p> + +<p><i>Aplocerus Montanus</i> is much more closely allied +to the antelope than to the domestic goat, and has +few characteristics in common with the latter +<span class="pagenum">[239]</span> +genus. He is an agile, fearless climber, and appears +to delight in scaling the tallest, grandest, and most +rugged crags and cliffs to be found in the ranges +which he inhabits, not so much in quest of his +favorite food, for this grows abundantly lower down, +but apparently from a mere spirit of daring; from a +desire to breathe the rarest and purest atmosphere +obtainable, and to view the grandest scenery under +the sun without having his vision in the least +obstructed by intervening objects. These forbidding +and almost inaccessible crags are the favorite, and +nearly the exclusive, haunts of this strange creature, +and the hunter who follows it thither must indeed +be a daring mountaineer. The goat is frequently +found at altitudes of 10,000 to 14,000 feet, where the +atmosphere is so rare as to render it difficult indeed +for man to climb, yet this fearless creature nimbly +leaps from crag to crag, over deep yawning chasms, +with no more fear than the domestic lamb feels when +bounding over the greensward in an Eastern farmyard.</p> + +<p>The hunter literally takes his life in his hand +when pursuing the goat, for he must pass over many +places where a misstep or a slip of a few inches +would plunge him over a precipice, where he would +fall thousands of feet, or be hurled into some narrow +and deep fissure in the rocks whence escape would +be impossible.</p> + +<p>Over such rugged and perilous ground he may +climb, hour after hour, until he has passed the highest +ranges of the elk, the mountain sheep, and all the +other game, for the mountain goat, "the American +chamois," as he has been aptly termed, ranges +<span class="pagenum">[240]</span> +higher than any of them. He may toil on until he +is far above timber line, and is working his way +over and around vast drifts and beds of perpetual +snow and ice. Finally he sights his game—a fine +handsome specimen—standing fearlessly on some jutting +crag, deliberately feeding on some tender lichens +or, perhaps, peering proudly out over the lower +world. The hunter now changes his course until he +can conceal himself behind some neighboring rock, +and then crawls stealthily and cautiously up to +within rifle range of the game. Then, peering cautiously +from behind his cover, he takes careful aim +and fires. He is a dead shot and the rifle ball pierces +the heart of the quarry, but to his dismay it makes +a convulsive bound and down it goes over the precipice, +rebounding from crag to crag, until it finally +reaches a resting place hundreds of feet below. It +may go to where he can never reach it, or may land +where he can recover it on his return down the +mountain side; but if the latter, it may be torn to +fragments and scattered here and there until the +hide is useless, the horns are broken off, the skull +crushed so that the head is unfit to mount, and the +flesh so bruised and mangled that he can scarcely +save enough of it to make him a dinner.</p> + +<p>A few years ago an officer of the United States +army and a party of friends were hunting goats in +the Bitter Root Mountains, near Missoula, Mont. +They followed two—a male and female—to the top +of a rough and dangerous peak, when the game, +before they could get a shot at it, started down the +opposite side and took refuge from the hunters +under a shelving rock. Here it was, owing to the +<span class="pagenum">[241]</span> +nature of the rocks and ice, absolutely impossible +for the hunters to follow them on foot, but the +intrepid officer, not to be baffled in the pursuit, tied a +long rope securely around his body, just under his +arms, laid down, and grasping his rifle slid quietly +down, on a bed of ice, some sixty or seventy feet, +while his companions held on to the other end of the +rope and controlled his perilous descent. Finally, +when he had gone far enough to be able to see the +game, he signaled his friends, who stopped him, and +raising on his elbows he fired and killed both goats, +and was then drawn up again in safety. Such, +however, was the nature of the rocks between him +and the carcasses that it was utterly impossible to +reach them after he had killed them, and he was +compelled reluctantly to abandon them. Several +members of the party tried to reach them from +other points, but were unable to do so, and they +were all obliged to return empty-handed to +camp.</p> + +<p>In another instance this same officer, upon crawling +out on the edge of a shelving rock and looking +down over a precipice hundreds of feet below, saw +two goats near the base, but they were actually inside +of a perpendicular line running down from the edge +of the rock he occupied, and he was therefore unable +to bring his rifle to bear upon them without projecting +his body out over the edge of the rock further +than was safe. After discussing the matter for +some minutes, one of his friends offered to hold his +feet and thus enable him to extend his head and +shoulders far enough out to get his aim. By this +means both of the goats were killed, but a party +<span class="pagenum">[242]</span> +had to go around and ascend the mountain from the +other side in order to secure them.</p> + +<p>The same party, while climbing the rugged and +almost perpendicular face of Little Mountain to +bring down some goats they had already killed, +came suddenly upon a large buck in a narrow V-shaped +fissure in the rock, from which there was no +escape but by the opening at which they had entered, +and across this they formed a skirmish line. The +goat climbed upon a narrow projection on one of the +walls of the fissure just out of reach of the tallest +man in the party, and as they had no rifles with +them (having left them below to lighten the labor of +the ascent), they tried to dislodge him by throwing +rocks at him, but their footing was so insecure and +there was such great danger of their falling that +they could not hurl these with sufficient force to +bring him down though several of them hit him. If +they had had a rope they could easily have lassoed +him, but there was no such thing at hand. They +finally decided to leave one of the men to guard +their prisoner, and on their return to camp another +man took a rifle, went back, killed the goat, and the +two bore him triumphantly down to camp. The +gentleman says: "Had I not been an eye witness, +and had I subsequently been shown the place where +the goat stood thus at bay, I could scarcely have +believed it possible for anything larger than a fly to +have found footing there."</p> + +<p>Fortunately, however, the successful hunting of +the goat is not always thus perilous, for though he +habitually selects for his home the roughest and +most inaccessible peaks to be found in the mountains, +<span class="pagenum">[243]</span> +yet he sometimes ranges on more favorable +ground, and if the sportsman be so fortunate as to +find him there he may be killed and saved. They +range somewhat lower in winter than in summer, +but never even then venture down into the cañons +or valleys, as do all the other large mountain animals. +They only come down upon the lower peaks +and ridges, and remain about the rocky walls, which +are so precipitous that the snow can not lie on them +to any considerable depth. Their power of climbing +over and walking on these almost perpendicular +rock walls is utterly astounding. They will walk +along the side of an upright projecting ledge that +towers hundreds of feet above and below them +where a shelf projects not more than four or five +inches wide. They will climb straight up an almost +perpendicular wall, if only slightly rough and irregular, +so that they can get a chance to hold on with +their spongy hoofs here and there. And they seem +to select these difficult passes in many instances +when a good, easy passage could be had to the place +to which they are bound by going a little further +around. They seem to delight in scaling a dangerous +cliff as a courageous boy does in climbing the +tallest tree. I once saw where a goat had walked +straight up over a smooth flat slab of granite ten +feet wide, that laid at an angle of about fifty degrees, +and that was covered with about two inches of wet +snow and slush. I could not climb up it with moccasins +on my feet, and no dog could have followed +him there. This faculty is accounted for by the +peculiar shape and quality of their hoofs before +described.<span class="pagenum">[244]</span></p> + +<p>The skin of the Rocky Mountain goat has never +had any regular commercial value. The stiff, coarse, +brittle hair that is mixed with the wool renders them +unsuitable for robes or rugs, and this hair can not +readily be plucked out. The only demand for them +is for mounting. Very few white hunters and none +of the Indians understand how to skin and preserve +them properly for this purpose, and this fact, taken +in connection with that of the rough and dangerous +nature of the ground they inhabit, makes +it difficult to secure good skins, or even heads for +mounting.</p> + +<p>The flesh of the goat is edible, but in the adult +animal is dry and tasteless. When kids of less than +a year old can be obtained, their flesh is tender and +toothsome. They are not hunted, therefore, for meat, +for in the ranges where they are found, deer, mountain +sheep, or elks can be obtained much lower down +and are much more desirable for the table.</p> + +<p>During a sojourn of a month in the Bitter Root +Mountains, near Missoula, Mont., last fall I had +some very exciting, not to say dangerous, experiences +in hunting this animal. We were camped in +Lost Horse Cañon, through which flows a typical +mountain stream. The walls on both sides are very +abrupt and from three to four thousand feet in height. +That on the north is covered from bottom to top with +great masses of granite that have been broken loose +from the cliffs at the top by earthquakes, the action +of frost, or other agency, and have tumbled down, +breaking into irregular-shaped fragments, of all sizes, +lodging and piling on top of each other in such a +manner as to form a gigantic sort of pavement from +<span class="pagenum">[245]</span> +the top of the mountain to the foot. There were +narrow strips of the mountain side that had escaped +these fallen masses. Here the outcropping granite +remained in its natural shape—irregular ledges with +small patches of earth intervening. Pines, hemlocks, +cedars, and various kinds of shrubs grew in these +places as far up the mountain side as the timber line.</p> + +<p>I ascended this north wall one morning and after +a weary and toilsome climb of about two miles, +and when in snow about six inches deep, I came +upon the track of a very large goat. It was +some hours old, but he had been feeding deliberately +along the mountain side, and as they are not rapid +travelers in any case, I knew he was not a great +distance away. I took up the trail and followed it. +It led over a succession of these vast rock piles, +which, owing to their being covered with snow, made +the traveling doubly dangerous. A slight misstep +at any point, or an unfortunate slip would be liable +to let my foot drop in between two of these rocks +and throw me in such a way as to break a leg, an arm, +or possibly my head. The greatest care was therefore +necessary in picking my way over this dangerous +country, and I was frequently struck with the wise +provisions which Nature makes for fulfilling her +ends when I saw where the animal I was pursuing +had bounded lightly from rock to rock over chasms +many feet in width; or where he had walked up the +sharp edge of some slab of granite not more than +three or four inches wide and lying at a high angle; +or where he had walked up over a flat slab of it, +tilted so steep that no other large animal in the +mountains could have followed him. There were +<span class="pagenum">[246]</span> +many of his passages in which I could not follow, +but I had to make slow and tortuous detours, coming +upon his trail again beyond these most dangerous +points.</p> + +<p>Had he traveled straight ahead I could never have +overtaken him, but the time he consumed in frequently +stopping to nip the tender leaves of the +mountain alder or the juicy lichens that grow upon +the rocks proved fatal to him, and finally, after a +chase of probably two miles and when near the top +of the peak close to timber line, I came in sight of +him. He was truly a beautiful creature. There he +stood, unconscious of approaching danger, looking +calmly out across a neighboring cañon as if +enjoying the grand scenery about him. Occasionally +he turned to take a mouthful of some delicate mountain +herb that stood near him. The pale creamy white +of his fleece contrasted delicately and beautifully +with the green of the cedars, the golden autumn-colored +leaves of the shrubs, the dull gray of the granite +rocks, and the pure white of the early autumn snow. +The sunlight glistened upon the polished black of +his proudly curved and beautifully rounded horns, +and his large black eyes gleamed as with conscious +innocence and pride. I contemplated his majestic +mien for several minutes before I could nerve myself +to the task of taking his life, but finally the +hunter's instinct conquered my more delicate feelings. +I put my rifle to my shoulder, pressed the +gently yielding trigger, and in an instant more his +life blood crimsoned the driven snow.</p> + +<p>After making temporary disposition of his remains, +I returned as rapidly as possible to camp to get my +<span class="pagenum">[247]</span> +photographic outfit and some help to carry him +in, for we were short of meat at the time. It was +three o'clock in the afternoon when I reached camp, +and, eating a hasty lunch, I started back up the +mountain with three of my friends.</p> + +<p>When we again reached the carcass it was five +o'clock, and our work must be done hastily in order to +get down the mountain as far as possible before dark. +To add to the discomfort of our undertaking a drizzling +rain set in just as I was ready to make the views. +I exposed a couple of plates, however, which fortunately +turned out fairly. We then set to work to +skin him as rapidly as possible, and as soon as this +was accomplished we started on our return to camp, +two of the men taking the two hind quarters of the +animal, another my camera, and I the skin and head. +With these loads, weighing from twenty-five to +thirty-five pounds each, besides our rifles, and considering +the difficult and dangerous nature of the +ground we had to travel over and the fact that it was +already beginning to grow dark, we had, indeed, a +perilous journey before us. Climbing over these rock +piles when covered with snow was difficult enough +work in daylight, but to attempt it in the darkness +and now that it was raining heavily, the snow +having become wet and slushy and the rocks more +slippery than before, it was doubly perilous.</p> + +<p>Our course lay diagonally down and along the side +of the mountain, and as long as the light was sufficient +to at all see where we were stepping we made +fair progress. Frequently, however, someone would +slip and fall, but fortunately without receiving any +serious injury. We were often compelled to hold to +<span class="pagenum">[248]</span> +some shrub or tree and let ourselves down over projecting +rocks several feet, where we could not possibly +have stood up without such aid.</p> + +<p>Finally, when we were yet less than half way down +the mountain side, it became pitch dark. Here we +sat down to rest. The rain was falling in torrents, +and but for the snow on the ground we could not +now have seen a step ahead of us. We had entered +one of those more favored strips of land where the +falling rocks had not covered the ground entirely, +and where there was a considerable growth of timber, +both large trees and underbrush. I was in favor of +going straight down through this into the creek bottom +where we could at least walk in safety, even if +our progress should be slower. One of my friends—Mr. +Overturf—agreed with me, but the other two—Mr. +McWhirk and Mr. Hinchman—preferred to +continue over the rocks in a direct line to camp. We +therefore decided to separate, Frank and I going +straight down through this strip of timber and over +the smoother ground, and the other two following +the more direct course.</p> + +<p>We two reached the foot of the mountain in about +an hour more; not, however, without encountering +serious difficulties in grasping and finding our way +down over precipitous rocks and earth, hanging on +to one limb or shrub until we came in reach of +another, and thus letting ourselves down safely. +We were then about a mile and a half from camp. +The creek bottom was densely timbered. There was +a dim game trail leading through it up to our camp, +but it was impossible to follow it in the darkness, +and, in fact, it required the closest attention of experienced +<span class="pagenum">[249]</span> +woodsmen and hunters to follow it in daylight. +We were therefore utterly at sea. We were +safe, however, and we heaved a sigh of relief when +we found ourselves on level ground, for none of us +had relished the idea of having a bone broken in that +country, so far from medical aid and home comforts.</p> + +<p>Great snow slides had for ages been coming down +these mountain sides bringing their débris, such +as rocks, and logs, and whole trees with them. +These had frequently gone some distance into the +creek bottom, breaking and felling all the trees in +their path. Tornadoes had raged through the cañon, +also, breaking and lopping trees in various directions, +so that we now encountered a body of woods +through which the most expert woodsman could not +possibly travel more than a mile an hour in daylight. +Add to this the cimmerian darkness in which +we were now groping (for there was no snow here in +the bottom of the cañon) and the reader may well +imagine that our progress was slow and tedious in +the extreme.</p> + +<p>We sat down and held another consultation. I +favored building a fire and staying there till morning, +but Frank preferred pushing on to camp, so I +acquiesced. We soon found, however, that it was +utterly impossible for us to get through these windfalls +in the darkness and with our heavy loads, and +decided as a last resort to get into the bed of the +creek and wade up it. We were already wet to the +skin from head to foot, and this wading could be no +worse than clambering over logs and through jungles +of wet underbrush. We soon reached the creek and +our hearts sank within us as we listened to its tumultuous +<span class="pagenum">[250]</span> +roar and looked upon its angry bosom, for +here we were enabled to see slightly, owing to the +faint light admitted through the narrow opening in +the trees overhead, how rough and boisterous it was! +Its bed was a succession of bowlders from the size of +a man's head to that of a small house, and its waters, +coming direct from the snow, were ice cold. Yet to +camp here was to suffer all night from wet and cold, +and we preferred to push on.</p> + +<p>By keeping near the shore we could nearly all the +time have brush to hang to and steady ourselves, +but where there were none of these in reach our +rubber boots slipped on the smooth wet rocks, and +several times we fell into the icy flood up to our +chins. Once, in particular, I fell in water nearly +three feet deep, dropped my gun and it went to the +bottom. I fished it out, however, staggered to my +feet, and struggled on.</p> + +<p>After nearly two hours of this terrible trudging, +wading, and staggering, we at last reached camp at +eleven o'clock at night and triumphantly deposited +our burdens within the tent.</p> + +<p>Our two friends, from whom we had separated <i>en +route</i>, had arrived only half an hour ahead of us, and +notwithstanding the rain, which still fell heavily, +Dr. Hale, who had remained in camp, had a great +log-heap fire blazing in front of the tent. A pot of +coffee steamed by the fire, and a sumptuous supper +of broiled bear steaks, baked potatoes, and hot +biscuits awaited us, but I was too tired to eat. I +drank a pint of hot coffee, put on dry flannels, +crawled into my blankets, and slept soundly till +morning.<span class="pagenum">[251]</span></p> + +<p>As further illustrating the habits of the mountain +goat and the perils attending its capture, I may be +permitted to narrate the experience of Mr. Westlake, +a ranchman in Eastern Idaho, who attempted +to procure a pair of skins for a friend in the East a +few years ago. He employed a Flathead Indian as +guide and assistant, who claimed to know the country +thoroughly in which they purposed hunting, and to +have had considerable experience in hunting goats. +Mr. Westlake provided himself with a good saddle-horse +and one pack-horse, a rifle, camp outfit, including +a small tent, and provisions for himself and the +Indian for twenty days. The Indian was fairly +mounted on a small but tough Indian pony and well +armed. They set out on September 2, and traveled +across the country to the Clearwater river, up which +they rode several days, over a very difficult and tedious +trail, and when well up toward the head of the +stream they reached the mouth of one of its tributaries +which debouches from a deep and rugged +cañon. Up this they decided to go, for it was their +intention to reach the Bitter Root Mountains, one +of the best known ranges for the goat.</p> + +<p>This cañon proved, like many others in that +region, almost impassable for man or beast, and it +was with the utmost difficulty and by the endurance +of untold and incredible hardships that they were +able to make seven or eight miles a day. They +encountered plenty of game in the cañon, however, +among which were elks, bears, and mule-deer, and +the creek which ran through the cañon yielded +them an abundance of trout, so that they fared +sumptuously so far as food was concerned. +<span class="pagenum">[252]</span></p> + +<p>Finally, after several days in this cañon, they +reached the head of it and came out on a high plateau +which was covered with heavy pine timber +interspersed with beautiful parks or meadows and +thickets of aspen and alder. Numerous springs boiling +up here coursed down into the cañon from which +they had just emerged, and fed the creek which ran +through it. Pressing forward across this formation +for a distance of about ten miles, they reached +the base of one of the great snow-capped peaks, +near the top of which they expected to find the particular +game of which they were in search. But +this mountain was so precipitous and so rough that +it was impossible for them to get their horses up it in +any way. They discussed various plans of accomplishing +their object. It was highly dangerous to +leave their horses here alone, lest the bears or +mountain lions, which were so numerous in the +vicinity, should stampede and run them off. It was +impossible for either man to go alone and bring +down two of the skins and heads suitably prepared +for mounting, as they, with the other load which it +was necessary to take along, would be more than +any one man could carry. It would take two days +to make the ascent, have a few hours for hunting, +and return to where they then were, and in order to +pass the night at all comfortably in that high altitude +a liberal supply of blankets must be carried.</p> + +<p>They therefore decided, as the only feasible plan, +to make camp where they were and start up early +the next morning, leaving their horses behind. +They made all possible preparations that night, and +the next morning arose at four o'clock. By sunrise +<span class="pagenum">[253]</span> +they had breakfasted, and with their packs, consisting +of two pairs of blankets each and a two days' +supply of cooked food, they started. They did not +dare picket or hobble their horses, as either would +give the wild beasts a chance to attack and kill +them, and could only trust to luck, an abundant +supply of good grass and water, and the well-known +attachment which nearly all Western horses feel for +a camp, to keep them there until their return.</p> + +<p>After a hard day's climb they came upon abundant +signs of goats about the middle of the afternoon, +and, preparing a temporary bivouac under a +shelving rock, they deposited their loads, made a +pot of coffee, ate a hearty dinner, and started out to +look for the game. They had not gone far when +Mr. Westlake sighted a large, handsome male goat +standing on the top of a cliff, and approaching +within easy rifle range he fired and killed it. It fell +some twenty or thirty feet, and lodged behind a projecting +slab of granite. It was secured after considerable +hard work, hastily skinned, and the skin and +some of the best cuts of the meat carried to their +temporary camp. Night was now approaching, and +the hunters set about preparing a supply of wood. +There were numerous dead pine and cedar trees, of +stunted growth and peculiar shapes, standing and +lying among the rocks, and a generous supply was +soon provided. Next, a large quantity of cedar +boughs were cut, brought in and spread under the +overhanging rock, to a depth of a foot or more. On +these the blankets were spread, and the hunters had a +bed which many a tired lodger in Eastern city hotels +might well envy them. By building a rousing fire +<span class="pagenum">[254]</span> +in front, which was reflected against the rock wall +behind them, and by occasionally replenishing it +during the night, they slept comfortably, though +the temperature ran several degrees below zero.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning both men started out in +search of a female goat to complete their undertaking. +Nearly two hours had been spent in hunting, +when the Indian found a fresh track in the +snow some distance above their temporary camp. +He followed it until it led in among a forest of rent +and jagged cliffs of granite, and Westlake, who +was some distance away, seeing by the Indian's +motions that he was on a trail, started toward him. +When within a few feet of where he had last seen +the Indian he heard the report of his rifle, and a +shout announced that his shot had been successful. +Mr. Westlake followed on into the chasm from +whence the report came and saw the Indian attempting +to scale the side of a nearly perpendicular wall +of rock, stepping cautiously from niche to niche +and shelf to shelf; holding on with his hands to +every projecting point that afforded him any assistance. +He finally reached the top of the ledge, and +reaching over caught hold of the now lifeless body of +the goat that he had killed, and drew it toward him. +But when it swung off from the top of the ledge its +weight and the consequent strain on his muscular +power was greater than the Indian had anticipated, +and before he had time to let go of the carcass and +save himself his slight hold on the rock was torn +loose, and uttering a wild shriek he fell a distance of +nearly sixty feet, striking on a heap of broken +rocks! He was instantly killed. +<span class="pagenum">[255]</span></p> + +<p>Here was a sad blow to poor Westlake. His only +companion, his faithful guide, and the only human +being within fifty miles of him, lay a corpse at his +feet. He had no means whatever of getting the +body back to their camp, much less of returning it +to the unfortunate red man's friends. He had not +even a tool of any kind to dig a grave with, and the +only thing he could do in that direction was to build +a wall of rocks around the body, lay some flat slabs +across the top, and then carry and lay on top of +these a number of the largest and heaviest rocks he +could handle, to protect it from the ravages of wild +beasts. When this sad duty was completed he +returned with a heavy heart to their temporary +camp, and with as much of their luggage as he was +able to carry started down the mountain. Arriving +about noon at the tent, he was horrified to find the +tracks of a large bear in and about it, the greater +portion of his supplies eaten up or destroyed, and +his horses nowhere in sight. A hasty examination +showed that the bear had passed through the little +park in which they had last been grazing—evidently +early that morning—that they had taken flight and +fled in the direction of the head of the cañon up +which they had come. Westlake followed them +several miles until convinced that they had really +started on their back trail, and then he returned to +camp. By this time night was again approaching +and it was with a heavy heart that he prepared to +pass it there, all alone, and still further depressed +with the thought that he had now a journey of a +hundred miles or more before him, to the nearest settlement, +which he must undoubtedly make on foot. +<span class="pagenum">[256]</span> +He ate his supper alone and in sadness, and as the +camp fire blazed in front of his tent it cast fitful +shadows into the gloom, which was unbroken by +any sound save the occasional soughing of the wind +through the pine trees or the cry of some wild animal. +He finally retired to rest, but his sleep was +broken by troubled dreams. As the sun arose he +prepared a hasty meal, which was eaten in silence, +and with a pair of blankets, a few pounds of flour, +salt, and coffee, and his rifle, he started, leaving his +tent standing and all else in it as a monument to the +memory of his friend and a landmark to future +hunters and mountaineers to locate the scene of his +great misfortune. He traveled seven days before +seeing the face of a human being or sleeping under +a shelter of any kind, when he finally reached a +ranch where his horses had preceded him and had +been corraled to await an owner.</p> + +<p>It is fortunate that all goat hunters do not meet +with such disasters as did poor Westlake and his +young friend, or the noble sport would have still +fewer votaries than it now has.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_256.jpg" alt="256" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[257]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> + +<p class="h3">TROUTING IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</p> + +<div class="i257"> +<div id="i257_0"> </div> +<div id="i257_1"> </div> +<div id="i257_2"> </div> +<div id="i257_3"> </div> +<div id="i257_4"> </div> +<div id="i257_5"> </div> +<div id="i257_6"> </div> +<div id="i257_7"> </div> +<div id="i257_8"> </div> +<div id="i257_9"> </div> +<div id="i257_10"> </div> +<div id="i257_11"> </div> +<div id="i257_12"> </div> +<div id="i257_13"> </div> +<div id="i257_14"> </div> +<div id="i257_15"> </div> +<div id="i257_16"> </div> +<div id="i257_17"> </div> +<div id="i257_18"> </div> +<div id="i257_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">N</span> +September, 1884, I joined a party of +genial sportsmen at Fort Missoula, Mont., +for a month's outing in the Bitter Root +Mountains. Our special mission was to hunt +large game; but while perfecting arrangements +for the trip, which occupied two +days, and during the mornings and evenings +of the several days occupied in traveling up +and down the river to and from the hunting +grounds, those of us who had our fishing tackle +with us turned what would otherwise have been +long hours of impatient waiting into merrily-fleeing +moments, by luring the grand mountain trout +(<i>Salmo purpuratus</i>) with which this river abounds +from their crystalline retreats and transferring them +to our creels and our camp table.</p> + +<p>The Bitter Root is a typical mountain stream, +rising among the snow-clad peaks in the vicinity of +the Big Hole basin and flowing with the mighty +rush imparted to it by a fall of 200 to 300 feet per +mile, fed by the scores of ice-cold brooks that tumble +out of the high ranges on either side from its source +to its mouth. After traversing a distance of perhaps +200 miles, it empties its pure waters into the +Hellgate river, just west of Missoula.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_258.jpg" alt="258" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">THE RISE.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[259]</span> +Its valley is two to four miles wide, and the lower +portion of this is occupied by numerous ranches. The +soil is tilled by well-to-do farmers or "ranchmen," +to speak in the vernacular of the country, so that +the angler, while within a mile or two of rugged +mountain peaks, is still in the midst of civilization, +where his larder may daily be replenished with +nearly all the varieties of good things that grow on +any New England farm. The banks of the stream +are fringed with stately pines and cottonwoods, and +in places with thickets of underbrush.</p> + +<p>From a tiny brook at its source the stream grows +rapidly to a veritable river of thirty to fifty yards +in width as it passes on toward its destination. It +sweeps and whirls in its course, here running +straight and placidly for a hundred yards, then +turning abruptly to right or left and returning +almost parallel to itself, forming "horse-shoe bends," +"ox-bow bends," compound S's, right angles, +etc.</p> + +<p>In many cases it tumbles down over a long, steep +pavement of granite bowlders, working itself into a +very agony of bubbles and foam, and when the foot +of this fall is reached it whirls and eddies in a great +pool ten or twenty feet deep and covering half an +acre of ground, almost surrounded by high-cut +banks, and seeming to have lost its way. It eventually +finds an exit, however, through an opening in +the willows and masses of driftwood, and again +speeds on.</p> + +<p>In many of these large, deep pools whole trees, of +giant size, brought down by the spring freshets, +have found lodgment beyond the power of the +<span class="pagenum">[260]</span> +mighty current to drive them further, and underneath +these drifts the angler is liable to hook a lusty +trout that will make short work of his tackle if he +be not very gentle and expert in manipulating it.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_260.jpg" alt="260" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">SOLID COMFORT.</p> + +<p>This river may be fished from a canoe or boat, if +it be manned by a master of the art of fresh-water +cruising; but no amateur oarsman or canoeist should +<span class="pagenum">[261]</span> +ever attempt it or he will surely come to grief. It +may also be fished from the bank or by wading; +and I have even known it to be fished from the +hurricane-deck of a cayuse, so that all lovers of the +gentle art may be accommodated.</p> + +<p>A large bump of caution would also be a good +thing for the man to take along who essays to wade +it, for he will find places—slippery places—where +even the wicked can not stand; for over the surface +thereof flows such a mighty torrent of waters that +his pride will surely have a fall, even if he do not; +and if he get out with a dry thread on his back he +will regard it as a miracle and not owing to any +skill or strength of his. I think a day on that +stream will take the conceit out of any living man +and show him what a poor, weak worm he is, <i>if</i> he +get into some of the places I have been in. He will +find himself in positions from whence he would give +half his worldly possessions to be delivered; where +he would forgive his bitterest enemy the meanest +thing he ever did if he were only there and would +cast him a friendly line. The bed of the stream is +composed of glacial drift, all the rapids being paved +with bowlders varying in size from an inch to two +or three feet in diameter. These are worn smooth +by the action of the water and coated with a light +growth of fungus, so that they furnish a very precarious +footing at best, and when the power of +the raging torrent is brought to bear against one's +nether limbs, he is, indeed, fortunate who is not +swept into the pool below.</p> + +<p>On the riffles or more placid portions of the stream +wading is not attended with so much danger or difficulty. +<span class="pagenum">[262]</span> +And while the angler beguiles the hours in +dalliance with these beauties of the river, gazing +into its crystalline depths and toying with its poetic +denizens, a glance to east or west reveals to him +scenes of even grander and more +inspiring loveliness; for there, so +close as to reveal their every rock +and shrub, tower the shapely +peaks, the shattered crags and +beetling cliffs which constitute +the Bitter Root range of +mountains. And even in +midsummer the fresh, +pure breezes sweeping +down from +these snow-clad summits fan his parched brow and +render existence, under such circumstances, the +realization of a poet's dream.</p> + +<img src="images/s_illo_262_0.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_1.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_2.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_3.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_4.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_5.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_6.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_7.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_8.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_9.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_10.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_11.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_12.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_13.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_14.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_15.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_16.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_17.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_18.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> +<img src="images/s_illo_262_19.jpg" alt="" class="splitr" /> + +<p class="splitr" style="font-weight:bold; margin-right:150px;"> +MID RUSHING WATERS.</p> +<br /> + +<p>On a bright, cheery September morning, Private +Westbrook, of the Third Infantry, and myself left +<span class="pagenum">[263]</span> +camp as soon as the sun had expelled the frost from +the vegetation. On the way down we caught a number +of grasshoppers—the orthodox bait in this region—to +fall back on in case of necessity; for there are +days when the mountain trout, as well as his cousin, +the brook trout of the East, declines the most seductive +fly on the bill of fare, and will have nothing but +his favorite every-day diet.</p> + +<p>Arriving at the river, Westbrook skirmished +through the brush until he found an alder about an +inch and a quarter in diameter at the ground and ten +or twelve feet high. This he cut, trimmed up, and +attached his line, a number two Sproat hook and a +split shot, put on a "hopper," and was ready for +business. I remonstrated gently with him on the +heathenish character of his tackle, but he said, pleasantly +and politely, that it was the kind that generally +got to the front when trout-fishing was the +business in hand. He said the fancy rods and reels +and flies were all well enough for those who wanted +to use them, but he preferred something with +which he could round up his fish and corral them +without losing any time. He said it was all +right for any gentlemen to spend half an hour +monkeying a trout after he had hooked it, if he +wanted to, but for his part, he never could see +much fun in that sort of fishing. He thought it +was decidedly more interesting to yank a fish in +out of the wet the instant he bit, and then lay for +another.</p> + +<p>He walked boldly out into the stream, waded +down a little way below the ford, on a riffle, till he +reached a point where the water was about two +<span class="pagenum">[264]</span> +feet deep and where it rolled sullenly and gloomily +over a series of large bowlders.</p> + +<p>Here he made a cast, and his bait had barely +touched the water when there was a vicious rush, a +swirl and a dash downstream, but the cruel pole +was brought to bear in the opposite direction. +Then there was a flop, a splash, a hop, skip and a +jump, and a three-pound trout took a header and +went down into the soldier's haversack.</p> + +<p>The bait was renewed, another cast made, and the +act was repeated on a half-pounder. Then another +weighing one-and-a-half pounds and a couple of +about a pound each followed in rapid succession, +when this portion of the stream failed to yield, and +Westbrook moved on down. I followed along the +bank and watched him for half an hour before +attempting to rig my tackle at all. To watch the +play of the various emotions on his hard, brown, +honest face; to study the effect of the intense enthusiasm +which possessed him; to note the utter disregard +of personal safety and comfort with which he +would plunge into the surging rapids and eddies up +to his waist, or even to his arm-pits, wherever he +thought he could catch a trout by so doing, was a +genuine treat.</p> + +<p>Finally I went back to the ford, jointed up my +rod, put on a gray professor, and walking down the +bank to a sudden bend in the river where the current +had cut a deep hole near the bank, I made a cast. +The fly dropped on the riffle just above the eddy, +and as it floated gracefully on the little wavelets +down and out upon the bosom of the deep-blue miniature +ocean, it turned hither and thither with the +<span class="pagenum">[265]</span> +capricious currents that played there, for perhaps +five minutes. I was just in the act of reeling up +for another cast, when a gleam of silvery light +flashed upon my vision, flecked with settings of jet +and gold. There was a mighty commotion upon the +surface and a monster trout leaped full into the air +as he seized the feathered bait and then shot down, +down into the crystal fluid, leaving the water in the +vicinity of his exploit bubbling, effervescing, and +sparkling like the rarest old champagne. For the +nonce I was paralyzed with the suddenness and +viciousness of his coming and going, and my reel +was singing merrily when I awoke to a realization +of what it all meant.</p> + +<p>Then I thumbed the cylinder and checked him in +his wild flight, but he continued to fight his way +clear down to the lower end of the pool, a distance +of twenty yards. Then he turned and came toward +me with the speed of an arrow, but the automatic +reel took up the slack as rapidly as he gave it. +When within twenty feet of me he turned out into +the stream, and as I checked him he again vaulted +into the air and the sun-light glistened on his beautifully-colored +sides and fins as he struggled to free +himself. Finding this impossible he started for the +bank, where brush and roots projected into the +water; but by a vigorous and fortunate sweep of the +rod I was enabled to check him again. Again he +sounded and again rushed up, down, and out into the +river, but the steel was securely set, and he was +compelled at last to succumb. Gradually I reeled +him in, and as I brought him up to the bank he +turned on his side exhausted. He weighed two and +<span class="pagenum">[267]</span> +three-quarter pounds and measured seventeen inches +in length.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_266.jpg" alt="266" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">AN ANXIOUS MOMENT</p> + +<p>I took two others, nearly as large, out of the same +hole, and then proceeding down fifty yards, I saw +a large cottonwood tree lying in the middle of the +stream where it had lodged and been securely +anchored, probably a year or two before. The current +had scooped out a great cavity about its roots +and I felt sure there must be a giant old trout lying +amongst them, but I could not reach it with a cast +from the shore. To attempt to wade to it I saw +would be hazardous, for the channel between me and +it was waist deep and ran with all the velocity of a +mill tail. But what danger will not an enthusiastic +angler brave when in pursuit of a trout? I started +in, and when half way to the trunk, would gladly +have retreated, but was actually afraid to attempt +to turn in the midst of this current, so I pressed forward, +finally reached the trunk of the tree and +climbed upon it. I made a cast up near the root +and hooked a handsome fellow, but after playing +him until I had him completely under control and +almost ready to land, the hook, which had been but +slightly caught, tore out and he drifted down the +river on his side.</p> + +<p>Another effort secured a two-pounder, and failing +to get any further encouragement, I climbed into the +icy torrent and with great difficulty again reached +the shore.</p> + +<p>A little further down I saw another very deep pool, +into which a small, green cottonwood tree had lately +fallen and hung by its roots to the bank. I felt sure +of making a good catch here, for the hole was ten +<span class="pagenum">[268]</span> +or twelve feet deep, and the driftwood that had +lodged about this tree afforded excellent cover for +the wary old fellows that always seek such secluded +and impregnable strongholds. The fly settled gracefully +on the surface at the upper end of the pool, and +as it floated listlessly down toward the drift, Westbrook, +who had come down and was fishing from the +bank opposite, said:</p> + +<p>"You'll get a good one there, sir. That's a +splendid hole for a big old fellow."</p> + +<p>"I think so; but he seems backward about coming +forward."</p> + +<p>"Maybe that blasted bird has scared him," +said he, referring to a coot that floated unconcernedly +and even impudently about the pool, +eyeing us without a symptom of fear, but evincing +the liveliest curiosity as to who and what we +were.</p> + +<p>I reeled up and made another cast farther out on +the pool. As the fly fell, Mrs. Coot swam up to it +as if inclined to pick it up. I almost hoped she +would, for I should really have enjoyed yanking her +a few times. But she thought better of it, and +turned away. After exhausting all my ingenuity +on this pool, and finding it impossible to induce a +rise, I laid down my rod, picked up a rock, and +threw it at the ill-omened bird, whom I blamed for +my lack of success.</p> + +<p>Westbrook took his cue from this and also sent a +rock after her. Both made close calls for her, but +she only scurried about the livelier, making no effort +to get away. She, however, swam behind a projection +in the bank, so that I could not see her, and I +<span class="pagenum">[269]</span> +told Westbrook to continue the attack and drive +her out.</p> + +<p>He picked up another bowlder as large as a league +baseball and hurled it at her, when the dullest and +most "thudful" sound I ever heard, accompanied +by a faint squawk, came from behind the bank.</p> + +<p>"Well, bleach my bones if I haven't killed her!" +said Westbrook, as he threw down his hat and +jumped on it.</p> + +<p>Sure enough, he had made a bull's-eye, and a mass +of feathers floated off downstream, followed by the +mortal remains of the deceased. And now the trout +were jumping at these stray feathers, and returning +to the siege, we each caught a good one at the lower +end of the pool.</p> + +<p>We had now about as many fish as we cared to +carry to camp, and started back up river. On our +way we met Lieutenant Thompson, of the Third +Infantry—also a member of our party—who had +left camp about the same time we did, and we +stopped and watched him fish awhile. The lieutenant +is a veteran fly-fisherman, and it is a pleasure +to see him wield his graceful little split bamboo rod, +and handle the large vigorous trout found in this +stream. I had my camera with me and exposed a +plate on him in the act of playing a two-pounder +while holding a string of six others in his left hand, +and though I did not give it quite enough time, it +turned out fairly well. He had also filled his creel, +and on our return to camp we hung our total catch, +with several others that General Marcy had taken, +on a pair of elk horns and got a good negative of +the whole outfit.<span class="pagenum">[270]</span></p> + +<p>Trout grow to prodigious sizes in the Bitter Root, +as well as in several other streams in Montana, +Wyoming, Idaho, and Washington Territory. The +Indians frequently spear them through the ice, or +take them in nets, some of these weighing ten to +twelve pounds each. But these large ones rarely +rise to the fly. However, Colonel Gibson, of the +U. S. A., commanding at Fort Missoula, took one +on a fly that weighed nine pounds and two ounces, +and other instances have been recorded in which +they have been taken by this method nearly as large. +They have frequently been taken on live bait, and +have been known to attack a small trout that had +been hooked on a fly, before he could be landed.</p> + +<p>While I was hunting in the Bitter Root Mountains +in the fall of '83, a carpenter, who was building +a bridge across the Bitter Root, near Corvallis, conceived +the idea of fishing for trout with a set hook. +He rigged a heavy hook and line, baiting with a live +minnow, tied it to a willow that overhung one of the +deep pools, and left it over night. By this means +he secured three of these monster trout in a week, +that weighed from nine to eleven and a half pounds +each.</p> + +<p>The supply of trout in the Bitter Root seems +to be almost unlimited, for it has been fished +extensively for ten years past, and yet a man may +catch twenty-five to fifty pounds a day any time +during the season, and is almost sure to do so if he +is at all skillful or "lucky." I know a native +Bitter Rooter who, during the summer and fall of +'84, fished for the market, and averaged thirty +pounds a day all through the season, which he sold +<span class="pagenum">[271]</span> +in Missoula at twenty-five cents a pound. Of course, +the majority of the ranchmen along the stream do +little or no fishing, but the officers and men at Fort +Missoula do an immense amount of it, as do the residents +of the town of Missoula; and visiting sportsmen +from the East take out hundreds of pounds +every season. But the stream is so large and long, +and its net-work of tributaries so vast, and furnish +such fine spawning and breeding grounds, that it is +safe to say there will be trout here a century hence. +The heathen Chinee has never been permitted to +ply his infamous dynamite cartridge here, or in any +of the streams of this vicinity, as he has long been +doing in Colorado, Nevada, and elsewhere, and this +fact alone would account for the unimpaired supply +in these streams.</p> + +<p>The reproductive power of the mountain trout is +equal to all the tax likely to be levied against it +here by legitimate sportsmen, and if dynamiting +and netting are prohibited hereafter as heretofore, +no fear need be felt as to the future supply.</p> + +<p>The market fisherman of whom I spoke was a +faithful devotee to the fly, and never would use any +other lure. A white or gray hackle was his favorite. +He used a stiff, heavy pole, however, about ten feet +long, cut from the jungles that grow on the river bottom, +and a heavy line, a foot shorter, with double gut +for attaching the fly. He fished from the shore or +waded, as was necessary to reach the best water. +He cast with both hands, and the instant the fly +touched the water he would raise the tip so that +the line would just clear, and then trail or skitter +the fly gently, but rapidly, toward him. Thus, the +<span class="pagenum">[272]</span> +line being taut, when the fish arose to the fly he +would simply hook himself. Then he was ignominiously +"yanked," and either landed high and dry +on mother earth or in the ranchman's gunny-sack.</p> + +<p>Although devoid of sport and requiring little skill, +it was the most effective method of filling a "bag" +that I have ever seen practiced. I have seen him +take ten to twenty-five trout in an hour's fishing +and not miss a single rise. I had this man with me +on a hunting trip, and whenever we came within +two miles of a trout stream our table was sure to be +supplied with an abundance of fish.</p> + +<p>I visited Fort Maginnis in September, 1883, and +during my stay, Capt. F. H. Hathaway kindly +invited me to spend a day trouting with him on Big +Spring creek, a beautiful stream that flows out of +the Snowy Mountains about twenty-five miles from +the post. We left the captain's quarters at noon, +comfortably seated on his buckboard, while Sam, +Fishel, and Dick Thomas rode their horses and drove +a pack-mule, which carried a part of our provisions, +the remainder being carried on the buckboard.</p> + +<p>We covered the twenty-five miles by six o'clock, +camping at the base of the Snowies, within two miles +of the source of the creek, which source is a cluster +of large cold springs. We pitched our tent on the +bank of the creek, where it murmured sweet music +in its course over the rugged bottom and lulled us +into quiet and refreshing sleep with its rhythmical +sounds. When we awoke the next morning the +foot-hills all about us glistened with frost, and the +high peaks, three or four miles away, were draped +<span class="pagenum">[273]</span> +in a mantle of spotless white, which the storm-king +had spread upon them a few days ago.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the lateness of the season, a few +musquitoes began to sing about our ears as soon as +the sun came up. Fishel, who was full of droll +good nature, observed them.</p> + +<p>"Well, look here," he said, as he broke the ice in +the water pail and dipped out a basinful to wash in, +"I'll be doggoned if here aint a lot of these measley +musquitoes buzzing around here with buffalo overcoats +on."</p> + +<p>The keen mountain air at this low temperature, +and the grand scenery with which we were surrounded, +combined to sharpen our appetites, and +our breakfast beside a rousing camp-fire was enjoyed +as only a meal can be enjoyed amid such surroundings. +As soon as the sun had risen high enough +to banish the frost and warm the air slightly, the +grass all about us was set in motion by thousands +of grasshoppers who gamboled playfully, in order, +apparently, to warm up their benumbed limbs +and get an appetite for breakfast. All hands then +turned out and harvested a goodly supply of them, +for we had been advised that the trout in that stream +would not take a fly so late in the season.</p> + +<p>Then we proceeded to business; the captain and +Dick fishing up the stream and I down, while Sam +took his rifle and went across the hills in search of +game. The stream, where we started in, was not +more than three to four feet wide and two feet deep +in the deepest holes, yet at the first cast I hooked a +trout that after a few vigorous plunges took the +barb off my hook and departed. I put on a new +<span class="pagenum">[274]</span> +one and had better luck next time, for in another +hole a few rods farther down I took one that weighed +a pound and a half.</p> + +<p>In the meantime the captain shouted to me, and +looking up the stream I saw him displaying one of +about the same size. We each followed our courses, +and did not meet again for some hours, when the +captain came down to see how I was getting on. He +had eight and I had six, the average weight of +which was over a pound each. He relieved me of +my load and returned to camp, and from that time +on did but little fishing himself, preferring, in +the fullness of his generous nature, to devote the +most of his time to accompanying me, showing +me the most favorable points, exulting in my success, +and in every way possible promoting my comfort. +Whenever he left me for a short time he would +send one of his men to take my fish to camp, dress +them, and do anything and everything else possible +for me.</p> + +<p>I fished down the creek nearly two miles during +the day, going over parts of the stream two or three +times, not ceasing from the fascinating sport long +enough to even eat a lunch that I carried in my +pocket. Nor did I turn my steps toward camp until +it became so dark that the fish would no longer rise. +Then, when I started campward, I met Dick coming +with an extra saddle horse which the captain had +kindly sent for me to ride.</p> + +<p>After supper came the always charming social +intercourse around the camp-fire, the exchange of +personal notes of the day's sport—the experience +meeting, so to speak. No one had misgivings to +<span class="pagenum">[275]</span> +record so far as the fishing was concerned. Each had +enjoyed his full measure of the grand sport, as was +evidenced by the display of the several strings of +salmon-colored beauties which hung around the +camp-fire. There was not a fingerling in the entire +catch. No one had caught a trout during the day +of less than four ounces in weight, and very few of +that size had been taken. The majority of them +ranged between half a pound and two pounds, and +the numbers were only limited by the amount of +work each had done. My friends, being residents +and accustomed to this kind of sport whenever +they choose to enjoy it, had not cared to fish all +day, and consequently had not taken so many as I, +but had taken all they wanted.</p> + +<p>The only man in the party who had anything to +regret in the day's experience was Sam. He had +started a large bull elk early in the morning and +had followed him several miles, but had not been +able to get a favorable shot, though he had twice +caught sight of him. We all sympathized deeply +with him in his misfortune, for Sam is an expert +shot with the rifle, and if he had ever drawn a bead +on the game we should have had elk steak on our +table at the next meal, sure.</p> + +<p>We broke camp early the next morning and prepared +to start for home, but decided to fish down +the creek till near noon before leaving it. We drove +down about a mile, when I alighted and started in, +the others distributing themselves at other points +along the stream. The trout rose as rapidly and +gamily as on the previous day, and I soon had a +load in my creel that pulled down uncomfortably.<span class="pagenum">[276]</span> +Among them was one old nine-spot which turned the +scales at two and a quarter pounds after having been +out of the water over two hours. He measured +seventeen and a half inches in length.</p> + +<p>The captain told me of a certain deep hole where +he said an old pioneer made his headquarters, who +had taken off two hooks and leaders for him on two +different days during the summer. When I reached +the hole I recognized it in a moment by the captain's +description. It was in a short bend or angle of the +creek. On the opposite side from where I stood, and +on the lower angle of the square, the channel had +cut a deep hole under an overhanging bank, which +was covered with willows. These drooped over the +water and shaded it nicely. There was a slight +eddy there and the surface of the water was flecked +with bits of white foam which came from the rapids +just above. What a paradise for a wary old trout!</p> + +<p>I stopped about forty feet above the hole and put +on one of the largest hoppers in my box; then I +reeled out ten or fifteen feet of line and cast into +the foot of the rapid. As the current straightened +out my line I reeled off more of it and still more until +it floated gently and gracefully down into the dark +eddy, and when within two feet of the edge of the +bank there was a whirl, a surge, a break in the +water, as if a full-grown beaver had been suddenly +frightened from his sun bath on the surface and had +started for the bottom. I saw a long, broad gleam +of silvery white, my line cut through the water, and +the old-timer started for his bed under the bank.</p> + +<p>I struck at the proper instant, and, bending my +little split bamboo almost double, brought him +<span class="pagenum">[277]</span> +up with a short turn. He darted up the stream a +few feet, and again turning square about started for +his den. I snubbed him again. This time he shot +down the creek, and, turning, made another dive +for his hiding place. Again I gave him the butt, +but this time he was determined to free himself, +and with a frantic plunge he tore the hook from his +mouth and disappeared in his dark retreat.</p> + +<p>My heart sank within me, when I realized that +he was gone. He was truly a monster, fully two +feet long, and I think would have weighed four +pounds or over. I reeled up and made two or three +more casts in the same hole. His mate, a comely-looking +fellow, but not nearly so large, came out +once and smelt of the bait but declined to take it. +He had evidently seen enough to convince him that +it was not the kind of a dinner he was looking +for. I fished down the creek for an hour and then +returned and tried the old fellow again, but he had +not yet forgotten his recent set-to with me, and +refused to come out. I presume he is still there, +and will probably reign for some years to come, +the terror of tackle owners, unless someone gets +a hook firmly fastened in his jaw, and has tackle +sufficiently derrick-like to land him; and whoever +that lucky individual may be, I congratulate him in +advance. My tackle would have held him if I had +been fortunate enough to get the proper <i>cinch</i> on +him, and the only thing I have to regret in thinking +of the trip, is that I was not so fortunate.</p> + +<p>We had enough, however, without him. We took +home forty-eight trout that weighed, when dressed, +sixty pounds, and of all the many days I have spent +<span class="pagenum">[278]</span> +fishing in the many years long gone, I never enjoyed +any more intensely, never had grander sport than in +these two days on Big Spring creek.</p> + +<p>It has been stated that the mountain trout lacks +the game qualities of our Eastern brook trout. I +have not found it so. They are quite as gamy, as +vicious in their fighting, and as destructive to fine +tackle as the brook trout, the only perceptible difference +being that they do not fight so long. They +yield, however, only after a stubborn resistance, +sufficiently prolonged to challenge the admiration +of any angler. I have caught a number of two and +three pounders that required very careful and +patient handling for twenty to thirty minutes +before they could be brought to the landing net.</p> + +<p>There are various other streams along the line of +the Northern Pacific Railroad which afford almost +equally as fine sport as the Bitter Root, and some +of them that are even more picturesque and beautiful. +In fact, nearly every stream reached by the +road, between Billings and Puget Sound, teems with +these graceful beauties. By leaving the road at +almost any point on the Rocky Mountain or Pend +d'Orielle Divisions and pushing back into the +mountains twenty to one hundred miles, the enterprising +angler may find streams whose banks have +seldom been profaned by the foot of a white man; +where an artificial fly has seldom or never fallen +upon the sparkling blue waters, and yet where millions +of these beautiful creatures swarm, ready to +rush upon anything that reaches the surface of +their element bearing the least resemblance to their +natural food, with all the fearless enthusiasm of +<span class="pagenum">[279]</span> +untainted and unrestrained nature. In these wilder +regions the tourist will also find frequent use for his +rifle, for elk, bear, deer, mountain sheep, and other +large game may yet be found in reasonable quantities +in all such undisturbed fastnesses.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_279.jpg" alt="279" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[280]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> + +<p class="h3">DEER HUNTING IN WISCONSIN.</p> + +<div class="i280"> +<div id="i280_0"> </div> +<div id="i280_1"> </div> +<div id="i280_2"> </div> +<div id="i280_3"> </div> +<div id="i280_4"> </div> +<div id="i280_5"> </div> +<div id="i280_6"> </div> +<div id="i280_7"> </div> +<div id="i280_8"> </div> +<div id="i280_9"> </div> +<div id="i280_10"> </div> +<div id="i280_11"> </div> +<div id="i280_12"> </div> +<div id="i280_13"> </div> +<div id="i280_14"> </div> +<div id="i280_15"> </div> +<div id="i280_16"> </div> +<div id="i280_17"> </div> +<div id="i280_18"> </div> +<div id="i280_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">ORTHERN</span> +Wisconsin is one vast and +almost unbroken deer range. It is penetrated +by several railroads, along the +immediate lines of which are a few small +farms and some fair-sized towns and villages; +but on going a few miles back from these +roads, in almost any direction, one passes +the confines of civilization and enters a +wilderness that is broken only by the numerous +logging camps, and these as a rule +are occupied only in winter. Thousands of acres +of these pine lands have been chopped over, +and the old slashings, having grown up to brush, +brambles, and briars of various kinds, furnish +excellent cover and feeding grounds for <i>Cervus +Virginianus</i>.</p> + +<p>True, it is difficult to see the game at any great +distance in these thickets, unless the hunter take his +stand on a high stump or log and wait until the deer +come in sight. This is a favorite and very successful +method of hunting with many who know how to +choose location and time of day. But adjacent to +these slashings are usually large tracts of open +woods, frequently hardwood ridges, through which +<span class="pagenum">[281]</span> +the game passes at intervals while moving from one +feeding ground to another. In such localities a deer +may be seen at a considerable distance, and shots +are often taken at 150 to 200 yards.</p> + +<p>I remember one of my first trips to these hunting +grounds, many years ago, before I knew how to +sneak on the game, and before I had gained sufficient +control of my nerves to be able to stop a deer while +vaulting over a fallen tree trunk, turning suddenly +from left to right and <i>vice versa</i>, as a wary old buck +will frequently do when fleeing from a hunter. I +stopped at a hotel in Merrill, on the Wisconsin +Valley Division of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. +Paul Railway, and, having learned something of +the nature of the surrounding country by a hasty +tramp in the afternoon, I got up the next morning +and started at four o'clock to what seemed to be a +favorable piece of ground. By daylight I was on +the margin of a large slash that, since being chopped +off, had burned over and then grown up to brush +and weeds. There were many blackened trunks of +trees lying everywhere, and some still standing that +had been scorched and roasted in the great conflagration +that had swept over the country, but had not +been entirely consumed. These latter, stripped of +bark and limbs, looked like gloomy monuments +placed there to mark the resting places of their +hapless fellows, and the whole aspect of the landscape +in the gray of dawn was weird and chilly in +the extreme. There was scarcely a breath of air +stirring, and by listening intently I could hear the +rustling of dry leaves and the occasional snapping +of twigs in various directions, that indicated the +<span class="pagenum">[282]</span> +near presence of the game and set my blood tingling +and my nerves twitching.</p> +</div> + +<p>So soon as there was sufficient light to show the +front sight of my rifle against a gray stump fifty +yards away, I started to move, as cautiously as I +knew how, toward a clump of wild-cherry bushes +that I had seen moving and from which came slight +but suspicious sounds. When within thirty yards +of it I stepped on a stick that snapped, and simultaneously +with the sound a monster buck leaped +high in the air, and landing twenty feet away, +uttered a shrill whistle and stopped, with his head +thrown up, to try and locate the danger. I brought +my rifle to my shoulder with a convulsive jerk, +pointed it at him and fired without thinking of the +sights, and of course scored an ignominious miss.</p> + +<p>Well, I wish every friend I have on earth could +have been there at that moment. That whole tract +of country, as far as I could see, seemed alive with +deer. Thrash! Crash! Bumpety-bump! Phew! +Phew!</p> + +<p>There was jumping, thrashing through the brush, +whistling, flipping and flapping of white flags, and +the air seemed full of glistening gray coats. The +buck I had shot at sailed away, and was soon followed +in his flight by a doe and two fawns. A doe +and fawn went in another direction, three fawns +in another, two does and a buck in another, and so +on <i>ad infinitum</i>.</p> + +<p>I stood there; like a mile-post by the roadside, +until they had all vanished, forgetting that I had +other cartridges in my belt. Finally I recovered +consciousness and began to wonder where some of +<span class="pagenum">[283]</span> +those deer would stop. If I could only get another +chance such as I had on that buck, wouldn't I down +him in fine style? I would plant a bullet in the +center of his shoulder next time sure. No dime-novel +scout was ever more unerring in his aim than +I would be if I could only get another aim. I +started on toward the top of a ridge, over which one +of the large bucks had disappeared, and on reaching +it I saw him, or some other one, just behind an oak +grub on the opposite side-hill. I raised my rifle and +took careful aim this time, but was so nervous that +I could not hold the bead on him, and when I pulled +he made another series of those daring leaps that +soon carried him out of sight. I fired a second shot +at him as he went, but with no better result than +the first.</p> + +<p>I now crossed over to the farther edge of the slash, +and, seeing no more game, started through a body of +large pines to an old burn that I had been told lay +a mile to the east. I was walking hurriedly through +this green timber, not expecting to see game, and +stepped upon a large log, when a doe and two fawns, +that had been lying down in the top of a fallen tree, +jumped and ran across in front of me, offering an +excellent opportunity for a good shot to have killed +all three of them. I slung lead after them at a lively +rate, firing five or six shots before they got out of +sight, but did no further harm than to accidentally +clip an ear off one of the fawns close down to its +head.</p> + +<p>After they were gone I went and picked up this +trophy and stopped to meditate on my ill-luck, or +want of skill. I then remembered that though I had +<span class="pagenum">[284]</span> +striven to hold the front sight on one or the other +of the deer at each shot after the first, I had entirely +forgotten to look through the notch in the rear +sight. Chagrined and mortified beyond all power +to describe, I trudged along and finally reached the +burn I was in search of. The sun was now high +in the heavens and shining brightly, so that the +game was no longer on foot, but had sought the +seclusion of various bits of dense cover and lain +down. My only chance for a shot was, therefore, in +walking them up, which I proceeded to do. The +brush was dense all over this burn, so that I could +rarely see twenty yards in any direction, yet I hoped +against hope for another chance. I was desperate +over the disgraceful failures I had made, and yet I +knew I could shoot. I had killed quantities of small +game with the same rifle I was then using and had +killed one deer years ago with an old muzzle loader. +I could always depend upon making a good fair +score at the target at 200 yards, or even longer +ranges, and yet I had shot away a dozen cartridges +this morning at deer, some of which were standing +within a few yards of me, and had not stopped one +of them. I was furious, and determined that the +next shot should tell.</p> + +<p>I walked down an old logging-road several hundred +yards, hoping that some belated traveler might be +found crossing or walking in it, but, failing in this, +I turned out and walked along the crest of a ridge, +looking down both sides of it. Struggling through +briers and brush, making a good deal of noise, unavoidably, +I still failed to jump a deer until I left +the ridge and started toward a "draw" in which +<span class="pagenum">[285]</span> +was a small meadow or slough. When half way +down the hill I came to a large stump, about four +feet high, from which a tree had been cut when the +snow was deep. I climbed upon this to take a look +at the surrounding country. As I did so, a large +buck that had been been lying just below it, sprang +from his bed and bounded away through the brush, +showing here and there a flash of his white flag and +a gleam of his majestic antlers, but not enough of +his body to shoot at. I was perfectly cool now. My +nervousness had all disappeared. In short, I was +mad. I stood watching his course and awaiting +developments with all the confidence and coolness +of a veteran, instead of the novice I really was. He +ran down the long hill, across the swale, and up the +hill on the opposite side, and, on reaching the top of +it and coming out upon open ground, turned broadside +and stopped to look at me, doubtless deeming +himself perfectly safe at that great distance. Standing +erect on that high stump I was clear above the +surrounding underbrush and had a fine view of the +magnificent quarry. His head was thrown high up +and well back; his ears erect, nostrils distended, and +even at that distance I imagined I could see the +defiant gleam of his jet black eye. His glossy coat +glistened in the brilliant autumn sunlight, and his +spreading antlers and powerful muscular development +characterized him as a giant among his kind. +As I raised my rifle slowly to my shoulder, I felt +that at last I had perfect control of my nerves and +that I was in some measure to redeem myself from +the ignominy of past failures. I had elevated my +rear sight for 250 yards, and as I looked through +<span class="pagenum">[286]</span> +the delicate notch in it and saw the little golden +front bead glimmer on the buck's shoulder, the muzzle +of the rifle was as steady and immovable as if +screwed in a vice. There was no tremor, no vibration +now; and holding well up to the spine and +showing the full size of the bead, to allow for the +distance, I pressed the trigger.</p> + +<p>At the report the deer bounded into the air as if +a dynamite cartridge had exploded under him, and, +lowering his head to a line with his body, started +to run. There was none of those lofty, airy leaps +now, no defiant waving to and fro of the white flag. +That emblem was closely furled. His pride was +broken and his sole object in life seemed to be to get +out of the country as soon as possible. The course +he had taken lay along the top of the ridge and I +had a fine view of the run from start to finish. He +at once began to waver in his course, turning slightly +from left to right and from right to left. He +stumbled and staggered like a blind horse. He ran +crashing and smashing into the dead top of a fallen +tree, breaking the dry limbs, some of them three or +four inches in diameter, as if they had been rye +straws. When he had gone as far into this labyrinth +of branches as he could get, he sank to the ground +as if exhausted, but suddenly rose again, extricated +himself by a few desperate struggles to the right, +and sped on. He ran squarely against a good-sized +sapling with such force as to throw him prostrate +upon his side. Still, his great vitality was not spent, +and, struggling to his feet, he dashed on again. +Next he ran against a log that lay up from the +ground some three feet and was set back upon his +<span class="pagenum">[287]</span> +haunches. He quickly recovered, took it in good +shape, and now dashed into a clump of oak grubs +that still held their dry leaves. Tearing and forcing +his way through these, he forged ahead with all his +remaining strength and plunged headlong into +another fallen tree-top. In this he struggled, trying +to force his way out until he sank upon the ground +from sheer loss of blood and expired. From where +he stood when I shot, to where he finally fell was +about 300 yards.</p> + +<p>I stepped the distance from where I stood to where +the deer was when I fired and found it to be 267 +yards. Taking up his trail, I found the ground +copiously sprinkled with blood where he came down +at the end of his first jump, and the leaves and brush +were crimsoned with it from there to where he gave +up the struggle. On coming up to him I found +that my bullet had drifted slightly to the left, owing +to the force of a strong wind which was blowing at +the time, and cut his throat almost as neatly as I +could have done it with my hunting-knife. The +oesophagus was entirely severed and the thorax +nearly so. His body was sadly bruised and lacerated +by the terrible ordeal through which he had +passed, and I concluded that he must have gone +stone blind when the bullet struck him. In no +other way can I account for his strange conduct. I +saved his head and had it mounted as a memento +of one of the most remarkable scratch shots I ever +made.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[288]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2> + +<p class="h3">THREE OF A KIND.</p> + +<div class="i288"> +<div id="i288_0"> </div> +<div id="i288_1"> </div> +<div id="i288_2"> </div> +<div id="i288_3"> </div> +<div id="i288_4"> </div> +<div id="i288_5"> </div> +<div id="i288_6"> </div> +<div id="i288_7"> </div> +<div id="i288_8"> </div> +<div id="i288_9"> </div> +<div id="i288_10"> </div> +<div id="i288_11"> </div> +<div id="i288_12"> </div> +<div id="i288_13"> </div> +<div id="i288_14"> </div> +<div id="i288_15"> </div> +<div id="i288_16"> </div> +<div id="i288_17"> </div> +<div id="i288_18"> </div> +<div id="i288_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">ARLY</span> +autumn's frosts had tinged the +foliage of the birch, maple, oak, and elm +trees, that intermingle in the great +pine forests, with a thousand rich +colors and shades of gold, brown, olive, +pink, and crimson, while the pines, the +hemlocks, the firs, and the cedars still +wore their dark mantels of perennial green, +and all Nature was clad in her sweetest smiles. +A solitary woodpecker, perched on the topmost +branch of a dead giant of the forest, reaching out +far above the surrounding network of leafy branches, +from which he might survey the surrounding country, +sounded his morning reveille and awaited the +coming of his mate. The dry leaves with which +mother earth was carpeted, rustled now and again +to the bound of the saucy red squirrel, the darting +hither and thither of the shy wood-mouse, or the +tread of the stupid, half-witted porcupine. The +chill October wind soughed through the swaying +tree-tops, laden with the rich ozone that gives life, +health, and happiness to all animate beings that are +permitted to inhale it.</p> + +<p>On such a morning, and amid such a scene of +natural loveliness, I left the train at Junction City, +<span class="pagenum">[289]</span> +on the Wisconsin Central Railway, started on a +three-mile jaunt to a logging camp, for a day or two +on a deer roundup. I reached my destination at nine +o'clock. The men had long since gone to their work, +but the "boss" had returned to camp to attend to +some business in hand, and, welcoming me with the +generous hospitality that is always shown by these +sturdy sons of the forest to strangers, bade me make +myself at home as long as I cared to stay. To my +inquiry as to the presence of game in the vicinity, +he said there was plenty of it, and that the men saw +one or more deer nearly every day while going to +or returning from their work, which was only a +mile away.</p> + +<p>I lost no time in getting out and entering an old +slashing to the east of the camp where the foreman +said signs were plentiful. I had not gone more +than half a mile, when, turning to the left, on an +old logging road, I saw several fresh tracks of deer +that had been feeding there that morning. It was +now eleven o'clock in the forenoon and I had no +hope of finding the game on foot at that late hour, +but depended entirely upon jumping a deer from its +bed and upon having to risk, in all probability, a +running shot. I moved very cautiously, however, +and was on the <i>qui vive</i> for any straggler that +might perchance be moving. Every foot of ground +that came within the scope of my vision was carefully +scanned and every sound or movement of leaf +or shrub, no matter how slight, received the most +careful attention, during long and frequent pauses, +before proceeding on my way.</p> +</div> + +<p>I followed the road through various turns, along +<span class="pagenum">[290]</span> +the bed of a slight ravine, and as I rounded one of +its abrupt bends that gave me a view of a considerable +expanse of hill-side, I stopped again to reconnoitre. +The ground was covered with a dense growth +of weeds, raspberry briers, and wild-cherry bushes +that had sprung up since the timber had been +cut off, all of which had been stricken by +recent frosts, and dried by subsequent sun and +wind. In these dry weeds I saw a slight movement, +and on careful examination was able to distinguish +a faint outline of a doe, standing partially behind a +large stump, a hundred yards away. Her head and +shoulders were entirely hidden by the stump, and +I had to step back some distance before I could get +sight of a vital part to shoot at. As her shoulder +came in view I knelt on my right knee, rested my +left elbow on my left knee, and, drawing a fine bead +on her shoulder, fired. She dropped in her tracks. +My aim was a little higher than I intended, and the +bullet, passing through her shoulder blades high +up, severed the spine between them on its way, +killing her as suddenly as if it had entered the +brain. At the report of the rifle a young buck +bounded out of the brush near by and waved me a +vaunting farewell as he disappeared over the ridge, +not giving me even a fair running shot. I dressed +the doe and went back to camp for dinner, the +welcome notes of the huge old tin horn, floating +in musical cadence through the forest, summoning +me at that moment to that much needed repast.</p> + +<p>After dinner I went out on another old unused +logging road, leading to the south, and, following it +a few hundred yards, branched off to another which +<span class="pagenum">[291]</span> +led to the southwest. A number of fallen trees, +lying across these, gave me frequent opportunities +to mount their prostrate trunks and look over large +tracts of surrounding country. In thus sauntering +and looking I had spent an hour or more when, +on passing an unusually dense clump of tall dry weeds +that stood near the road, I was startled by a sudden +crashing and rattling among them, and an instant +later two large does broke cover at the farther side +and started across a narrow open space. But before +they reached the farther side of it the voice of my +Winchester express was reverberating among the +lofty pines, and a cloud of smoke hung between me +and where I had last seen them. I sprang to one side +to avoid this, but they had both disappeared in the +thicket, and I could still hear one of them crashing +away toward the green woods. I felt sure that +I had hit the other, and, going to where I had last +seen her, I found blood, hair, and several small bits +of flesh on the ground and the neighboring weeds. +Following the trail a distance of fifty feet, I found +her lying dead with her throat cut, and, in fact, a +considerable portion of it shot away. The express +bullet, driven by a heavy charge of powder, has +such a high velocity that when it strikes flesh it +invariably makes a big hole in it. One hind leg was +also broken squarely off at the knee and the bone +protruded through the skin.</p> + +<p>I stood pondering and puzzling over this strange +phenomenon. How in the name of wonder could +one bullet break her hind leg and cut her throat? +I stooped down and examined the wound. To my +surprise, I found that it had not been made with a +<span class="pagenum">[292]</span> +bullet at all. The joint was dislocated and the skin +torn away until the disjointed member hung only +by a narrow segment. Then the mystery was +deeper than ever. What could possibly have caused +this violent and terrible wound? It had been made +after I shot, for at that time the agile creature was +bounding over logs and through clumps of brush +with all the grace and airiness of her sylph-like +nature. I turned, took up her back track, and, +following it thirty or forty feet, came to a fallen +tamarack sapling about six inches in diameter, that +laid up about a foot from the ground. The track +showed that the poor creature, in one of her frantic +leaps, just after being hit, came down with her fore +feet on one side of this pole and her hind feet on the +other; that one hind foot had slipped on the soft +earth and slid under the pole to her knee, and that +the next bound had brought it up against the pole +in the form of a lever—much as a logger would place +his handspike under it in attempting to throw it out +of his way—and the pole, being far too long and +heavy to yield to her strength, the leg had been +snapped short off.</p> + +<p>I describe this incident merely as one of the many +strange and mysterious ones that come under the +observation of woodsmen, and not with any desire to +give pain to sensitive and sympathetic readers.</p> + +<p>The beautiful animal did not suffer long from this +hurt, however, for she was dead when I reached her, +within perhaps three or four minutes after I fired +the fatal shot. I saved her head and had it mounted +and it hangs beside that of the buck whose taking +off has been described and whose throat was also +<span class="pagenum">[293]</span> +neatly severed by the bullet. They were two remarkable +shots.</p> + +<p>After dressing this deer I returned to the old burn +in which I had killed the doe in the morning, and +took a stand on a high, flat-top stump, which commanded +a good view of a large tract of surrounding +country. I felt certain that the young buck that +was with her when I killed her would come back +toward night to look up his companion, for he probably +did not realize that she was dead. I stood +within thirty yards of her carcass and for an hour +kept a close watch in every direction, turning slowly +from one position to another, so that any game that +came in sight could not detect the movement and +would, if seeing me at all, consider me one of the +numerous old high stumps with which the landscape +was marked. Toward sundown a large, handsome +buck came out of the green woods half a mile away, +walking deliberately toward me. I could see only +a proud head and spreading antlers, and an occasional +glimpse of his silvery-gray back as he marched +with stately but cautious tread through the dry +weeds. He stopped frequently to look and listen +for danger, or the coy maidens of his kind, of whom +he was in search. Oh, how I longed for a shot at +him! With bated breath and throbbing heart I +watched his slow progress across the open country. +But, alas! the wind (what little there was) was +wrong. When within about 200 yards of me he +scented me and bounded squarely sidewise as +though a rattlesnake had bitten him, uttering at the +same time one of those peculiarly thrilling whistles +that might have been heard in the stillness of the +<span class="pagenum">[294]</span> +evening a mile or more. He struck a picturesque +attitude and scanned the country in every direction, +trying to locate the danger but could not. After a +few seconds he made another high bound, stopped, +and whistled again. I stood perfectly still, and he +could make nothing animate out of the inanimate +objects about him. He leaped hither and thither, +snorted, whistled, and sniffed the air as we have seen +a wild colt do when liberated in a pasture field after +long confinement in his stall.</p> + +<p>Although still unable to satisfy himself as to the +whereabouts of his foe, he finally seemed to decide +that that was not a healthy neighborhood for him, +and, taking his back trail, started to get out of +it by a series of twenty-foot leaps. I was tempted +to hazard a shot at him, but could see such a small +portion of his body when standing that the chances +were against making a hit. Besides, as already +stated, I felt sure of a shot at shorter range by +keeping still. I watched and listened closely in +every direction. The sun had gone down. Night +was silently wrapping her somber mantle over the +vast wilderness, and the only sounds that broke the +oppressive stillness were the occasional croakings of +the raven as he winged his stately flight to his +rookery, and the low, solemn sighing of the autumn +breezes through the pine tops. I was benumbed +with cold, and was tempted to desert my post and +make a run for camp. I raised my rifle to my +shoulder to see if I could yet see the sights, for +stars were beginning to sparkle in the firmament. +Yes; the little gold bead at the muzzle still gleamed +in the twilight, with all the brilliancy of one of the +<span class="pagenum">[295]</span> +lamps of heaven. I turned to take a last look in +the direction of the carcass of my morning's kill, +and—imagine my astonishment if you can—there +stood the young buck, licking the body of his fallen +mate! How he ever got there through all those +brush and weeds without my hearing or seeing him +will always remain a profound mystery to me. But a +ball from my express entering his shoulder and passing +out at his flank laid him dead by the side of his +companion, and completed the best score I ever +made on deer—three in one day—and I had fired but +three shots in all.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_295.jpg" alt="295" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[296]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2> + +<div class="i296"> +<div id="i296_0"> </div> +<div id="i296_1"> </div> +<div id="i296_2"> </div> +<div id="i296_3"> </div> +<div id="i296_4"> </div> +<div id="i296_5"> </div> +<div id="i296_6"> </div> +<div id="i296_7"> </div> +<div id="i296_8"> </div> +<div id="i296_9"> </div> +<div id="i296_10"> </div> +<div id="i296_11"> </div> +<div id="i296_12"> </div> +<div id="i296_13"> </div> +<div id="i296_14"> </div> +<div id="i296_15"> </div> +<div id="i296_16"> </div> +<div id="i296_17"> </div> +<div id="i296_18"> </div> +<div id="i296_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter" style="text-indent:-.9em"><span class="chapter">R.</span> +George T. Pease lives in a log shanty, in +the heart of the great Wisconsin pine +woods, five miles west of Wausaukee +station, on the Milwaukee & Northern +Railroad. A beautiful little lake stretches +out in front of his door, in which numerous +black bass make their home, and +several brooks meander through the wilderness +not far away, all of which abound +in the sprightly, sparkling brook trout. Deer +roam over the hills far and near, and when +the first "tracking snow" comes, in the van of icy +winter, their hoof-prints may be found within a +hundred yards of the cabin any morning. Pease is +a genial, kind-hearted old man, in whose humble +quarters the true sportsman is always welcome. +Reared in these woods, and bred in the pure atmosphere +that abounds here, a hunter by trade and +from necessity, he is a simple, honest child of nature. +With the exception of four or five years spent in +the service of his country, during the war of the +Rebellion, he has lived and hunted in this region +since the days of his boyhood, and his gray hairs +bespeak for him the respect men always feel for the +honest old woodsman.</p> + +<p>I spent several days hunting with him in November, +1885, and the intervening nights—or a large +<span class="pagenum">[297]</span> +portion of each—in talking with him. I learned in +that short time to esteem and value him as one of +the best guides and hunters I ever knew, and one of +the truest friends I have. Although he has been +hunting so many years and has always been a close +observer of the habits of game; although thoroughly +posted on woodcraft in all its details, he is not +egotistical as are so many old woodsmen. He never +intrudes his opinions on any subject unless asked +for them; never dictates what anyone under his +guidance shall do. He modestly suggests, and if +you do not agree with him, defers cheerfully to +your judgment.</p> + +<p>He is intelligent, well-informed generally, full of +interesting reminiscences of his life in the wilderness, +and relates many thrilling episodes in his experience +in hunting deer, bear, wolves, etc. He told +me that once, when hunting on the Menominee river, +he saw a doe lying down, and raised his rifle to shoot +her. But before firing he noticed that she had seen +him and was struggling to get up. As she did not +succeed in this, he concluded that she must have +been wounded, and started toward her. She kept +struggling, but was unable to rise, and on going to +her he found that she had lain down near a large +hemlock root, that had curved out of the ground, +forming an arch or loop three or four inches high. +One of her hind legs had slipped under this root to +the knee, and when she had attempted to get up she +had probably been thrown violently on her side, dislocating +the hip joint and thus rendering it utterly +impossible for her to draw the imprisoned leg from +under the root. He said the poor creature had apparently +<span class="pagenum">[298]</span> +been in this pitiable plight several days; that +she was starved and emaciated almost to a shadow, +and had tramped and pawed a hole in the earth more +than a foot deep, over the entire space reached by +her fore feet. Had she not been discovered, the poor +creature must soon have died from starvation. As +it was, she was so weak that when he released her +leg from this strange trap she was unable to stand, +and he reluctantly killed her, as the speediest, most +humane, and, in fact, the only means of ending her +misery.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>I reached the old man's cabin at about noon. We +hunted diligently all the afternoon, and though we +saw plenty of fresh tracks everywhere in the newly-fallen +snow, neither of us could get sight of a deer, +and when we met at the shanty at dark and +exchanged notes, Pease was sorely disappointed. +The next forenoon was a repetition of this experience, +and when we met again at the cabin for +dinner, both empty-handed, his disappointment was +intensified into despondency. We separated after +the noon meal, and when we came in at night, I +looked even more dejected and disgusted than ever, +and asserted, with a good deal of emphasis, that I +did not believe the "blasted" country was any good +for game; that I thought he or someone had hunted +the deer and shot at them until they were so wild that +no man could get within 500 yards of one. He +insisted that such was not the case; that he had +been killing plenty of deer that fall, and that others +had killed a few in the neighborhood, but not +enough to spoil the hunting, as I claimed. He said +<span class="pagenum">[299]</span> +our want of success utterly astonished him; that he +was truly sorry; that he could not account for it, +and that we should surely make a killing on the +morrow.</p> + +<p>"Have you seen any fresh tracks to-day?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"Oh, yes, plenty of them; haven't you?"</p> + +<p>"Well, yes, two or three; but I think the deer +that made them were ten miles away when I got +there."</p> + +<p>"Why," said he, "when I started out this afternoon +I skirted along that big swamp, where you +hunted in the morning, and I saw where four deer +had crossed your track since you went along. One +of them was an awful big buck. I took up his trail +and followed it in hopes of overtaking him and getting +a shot. He roamed and circled around among +the hills and through the swamps for, I reckon, +more than five miles. I walked just as still as I possibly +could, for I knew we were mighty nigh out of +meat, and I am gettin' mighty tired of bacon anyhow. +But somehow that buck heard me or smelt +me, or something, and the first and last I saw of him +was just one flip of his tail as he went over a ridge +about three hundred yards away. I sat down on a log +and waited and studied a long time what to do or +where to go next; and finally I concluded I'd just +come in and get supper ready by the time you got +here. Set up, sir, and have a cup of coffee and some +of these baked potatoes and some of this bacon. It +ain't much of a supper, but maybe we'll feel a little +better after we eat it, anyway."</p> + +<p>I surrounded one side of the rough pine table +suddenly, and when I got my mouth so full I couldn't +<span class="pagenum">[300]</span> +talk plain, I said, in a careless, uninterested sort of +a way:</p> + +<p>"I saw where you sat down on that log."</p> + +<p>"Did you?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; I sat down and rested there, too. I was +just about as tired and as disgusted and as mad as I +am now; but after sitting there ten or fifteen minutes, +I trudged along through that maple thicket just +below there, and when I got through it I saw a big +buck smelling along on a doe's track, up on the side-hill, +and I killed him and then started on after the +doe, and——"</p> + +<p>Pease had dropped his knife and fork and was +looking at me with his mouth half open and his eyes +half shut.</p> + +<p>"What did you say?" he inquired in a dazed, half-whispered +tone.</p> + +<p>"I say I killed the buck and then started——"</p> + +<p>"You killed a buck?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"When?" he gasped, with his mouth and eyes a +little wider open.</p> + +<p>"This afternoon," said I, calmly and complacently.</p> + +<p>"Where?"</p> + +<p>"Why just below that thicket; just below where +you sat down on the log."</p> + +<p>The old man sat and gazed at me for two or three +minutes while I continued to eat as if nothing +unusual had happened.</p> + +<p>"Are you joking?" he said at last.</p> + +<p>"No; I'm telling you the straight truth. The +liver and heart are hanging out there on the corner +of the cabin; go out and look at them." +<span class="pagenum">[301]</span></p> + +<p>"Well, I'll be dad blasted!" shouted the old man, +as he jumped up and grasped me by the hand. +"Why on earth didn't you say so when you first +came in? What did you want to deceive me for? +Why did you want to do all that kicking about the +hunting being so poor?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, I just wanted to have a little fun with +you."</p> + +<p>Throughout that evening Pease was one of the +happiest men I ever saw. He seemed, and, in fact, +said he was, twice as proud to have me, his guest, +kill a deer as he would have been to have killed it +himself.</p> + +<p>He chatted cheerfully until eleven o'clock before +showing any signs of sleepiness. This was about all +the game I cared to kill, so I asked Pease to go into +the station and get a team to come out and take my +meat in. In order to pass the forenoon pleasantly, +I took my rifle and started into the woods again. I +went at once to the buck I had killed, reaching the +carcass shortly after sunrise. I cut down a jack +pine, and, trimming off the boughs, made a bed. +Then I laid down, took out a book and commenced +to read, while waiting for the team and for any deer +that might happen along.</p> + +<p>But I had not read half a dozen lines when I +heard a slight rustling and cracking in the frozen +snow, and, looking in the direction of the noise, I +saw a young spike buck walking slowly and deliberately +down the hill not a hundred yards away. I +caught up my express and made a snap shot at him, +but in my haste and surprise missed him clear. +At the report he stopped, threw up his head and +<span class="pagenum">[302]</span> +presented a beautiful picture, as well as a fair, easy +target.</p> + +<p>"Now, my lad," I said to myself, "you are my +meat sure."</p> + +<p>I was so confident of success this time that I +scarcely took any aim at all. Again I scored an +inglorious miss and the deer started away on a series +of long, high bounds. I threw in another cartridge, +held ahead of him, and as he struck the ground the +second time I pulled for the third time. Then there +was a circus of a kind that a hunter rarely sees. +The buck fell to bucking, bleating, and kicking. +His hind feet would go into the air like a couple of +arrows and with such force that they would snap +like a whip cracker. Then he would rear on his hind +feet and paw the air; then jump sidewise and backward. +He threw himself twice in his gyrations, and +each time was on his feet again almost before I +could realize that he had gone down. This gymnastic +exhibition lasted perhaps two or three +minutes, during which time I was so paralyzed with +laughter that I could not have shot within six feet +of him if I had tried. Besides, I wanted to see the +performance out. Finally the bucker recovered his +wits and skipped out. I followed and found that +he was discharging blood at such a rate that he +could not go far. He went into a large thicket. I +jumped him three times before I could get a fair shot +at him, and could hear him wheeze every time I came +near him. Finally I saw him lying a few yards +away, but his head was still up and I sent a bullet +through his neck. On examination I found that +my first shot had cut the point of his breastbone +<span class="pagenum">[303]</span> +off and had ruptured both his oesophagus and trachea. +I dragged him out and laid him by the side of the +big buck, and when Pease came in with the team +an hour later he said:</p> + +<p>"Well, I'll be dad blasted if he hain't got another +one."</p> + +<p>I shall always remember that hunt as one of the +pleasantest of my life, considering the length of +time it occupied.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_303.jpg" alt="303" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[304]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a>CHAPTER XXX.</h2> + +<p class="h3">COWBOY LIFE.</p> + +<div class="i304"> +<div id="i304_0"> </div> +<div id="i304_1"> </div> +<div id="i304_2"> </div> +<div id="i304_3"> </div> +<div id="i304_4"> </div> +<div id="i304_5"> </div> +<div id="i304_6"> </div> +<div id="i304_7"> </div> +<div id="i304_8"> </div> +<div id="i304_9"> </div> +<div id="i304_10"> </div> +<div id="i304_11"> </div> +<div id="i304_12"> </div> +<div id="i304_13"> </div> +<div id="i304_14"> </div> +<div id="i304_15"> </div> +<div id="i304_16"> </div> +<div id="i304_17"> </div> +<div id="i304_18"> </div> +<div id="i304_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">HE</span> +workings of the law of evolution +are plainly discernible in the +development of the "cowboy," a +certain prominent and now well-defined +character of the far West—one +that was made necessary by, +and has grown out of, the vast cattle interests +which have, in the past two or three decades, spread +over that mystic region. His counterpart is scarcely +to be found anywhere else in the civilized world, for +the very good reason that such a species of manhood +is not required anywhere else. True, cattle-raising +is carried on extensively in many States of +our Union and in various other countries, but +nowhere under the same conditions and on the +same plan as in the West; hence, though herders, +drovers, and the like are employed elsewhere, there +is no locality in which a class of men endowed with +such characteristics and requiring such peculiar +tastes and faculties are to be found as are combined +in the cowboy of our Western plains. The life he +leads and the services he is required to perform call +into the business young men possessing tastes and +traits different from those of average human nature, +and such as are not found in men following any other +<span class="pagenum">[305]</span> +vocation, as a class. It is an occupation that entails, +generally speaking, a life of isolation from society, +and in many cases from civilization. It is one in +which home comforts must be dispensed with; it is +one requiring its devotees to live on plain food, in +log huts, and to sleep in blankets at best; it is one +in which there is often intense hardship and suffering, +and which exposes its disciples to dangers of +various kinds.</p> + +<p>When all these facts and peculiarities of the +calling are considered we must readily perceive that +men of ordinary tastes and inclinations would not +seek to engage in it. Cowboys are not "native and +to the manor born." They do not follow in the +footsteps of their fathers as do young men on Eastern +farms. The business is yet too young in our +Western Territories to have brought about this state +of affairs, though it will come to exist in future. But +at present cowboys are all exotics, transplanted from +Eastern soil. Let us consider, then, what manner of +boy or young man would adopt such a calling. +Certainly not he who considers a well-spread table, +a cozy, cheerful room, a good soft bed, and neat, +tasty clothing essential to his health and happiness; +nor he who is unwilling to sever his connection +with the social circle or the family group; nor he +who must have his daily paper, his comfortable +office chair and desk; his telegraph and other commercial +facilities and comforts; nor yet he who, +when he travels, must needs ride in a comfortable +carriage on the highway, or a Pullman coach on the +railway. But the young man who is willing to +engage in the occupation of "rustling cattle" +<span class="pagenum">[306]</span> +on the plains, who is willing to assume the title +of "cowboy," must be he who, although he may +love all these luxuries, and may perhaps have been +accustomed to enjoy them, has in his nature enough +of romance, enough love for outdoor life, enough +love of sport, excitement, and adventure, enough +enthusiasm for the wild freedom of the frontier, to +be willing to deny himself all these luxuries and +to allow such pleasures as the ranch and range can +afford, to compensate for them.</p> +</div> + +<p>The love of money can not enter largely into the +consideration of the question, for while the work is +often of the hardest kind a man can endure and the +hours of labor only limited by the men's power of +endurance, the wages usually paid are low. From +$25 to $35 a month is the average rate of wages for +all good men on the range except the foreman, who +commands from $60 to $75 a month, according to his +ability, the number of men he is to have charge of, +and the responsibility of his position generally. +Ambition to succeed to this dignity, or a desire to +learn the cattle-growing business with a view of +engaging in it on their own account, may induce +some boys to engage as herders, but the young man +who deliberately chooses this occupation is usually +one with a superabundance of vim, energy, and +enthusiasm; one who chafes under the restraints of +society, who is bored and annoyed by the quiet humdrum +life of the Eastern village, city, or farm house; +one who longs to go where he can breathe fresh air, +exercise his arms, legs, and lungs, if need be, without +disturbing the peace; one who, in short, requires +more room to live in than his birthplace affords.</p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">[307]</span> +Many a cowboy of to-day was, in his childhood +or youth, the street gamin, the newsboy, the +"hard nut" at school; the dare-devil of the rural +districts; the hero of daring exploits; the boy who +did not fear to climb to the top of the highest +tree to punch a squirrel out of his hole; who led the +raid on an orchard or watermelon patch on a dark +night; who at college was at the head of all wild, +reckless frolics, and was also well up in his classes; +who led the village marshal or the city policeman +many a wild-goose chase and caused them many a +sleepless night by his innocent though mischievous +pranks. He is the boy who was always ready for +a lark of any kind that could produce excitement, +fun, or adventure without bringing serious harm to +anyone. He was not the vicious, thieving, lying, +sneaking boy, but the irrepressible, uncontrollable, +wild, harum-scarum chap who led the gang; the +champion of the weak; the boy who would fight +"at the drop of the hat" in defense of a friend of +his own sex or of even a stranger of the opposite +sex. These are the boys of ten, twenty, or thirty +years ago whom to-day you may find riding wild +cayuses on the cattle ranges of the boundless +plains.</p> + +<p>As a class, they have been shamefully maligned. +That there are bad, vicious characters amongst them +can not be denied, but that many of the murders, +thefts, arsons, and other depredations which are +committed in the frontier towns and charged to +cowboys, are really committed by Indians, bummers, +superannuated buffalo hunters, and other hangers +on, who never do an honest day's work of any kind, +<span class="pagenum">[308]</span> +but who eke out a miserable, half-starved existence +by gambling, stealing, poisoning wolves, etc., is a +fact well known to every close student of frontier +life. And yet, crimes and misdemeanors are occasionally +committed by men who are, for the time +being at least, regularly employed in riding the +range. Fugitives from justice, thieves, cut-throats, +and hoodlums of all classes from the large cities +have drifted West, and have sought employment on +the ranges because nothing better or more congenial +offered; but such are seldom employed, +and if employed at all, are generally discharged as +soon as their true character is learned and their +places can be filled by worthier men.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_308.jpg" alt="308" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">THE "WOOLLY COWBOY.</p> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum">[309]</span> +Neither do I wish to defend the "fresh" young +man from the East who goes West to "paralyze" +the natives, who gets a job on the ranch, makes +a break for "loud togs," arms, and knives, large +nickel-plated spurs, raises a crop of long hair and +"catches on" to all the bad language of the country, +fills up on bad whisky at every opportunity and +then asserts that "he's a wolf, it's his night to +howl."</p> + +<p>Nor do I wish to defend the swarthy, loud-oathed, +heavily-armed "greaser" of Mexico and the Texan +ranges, who accounts himself a "cowboy" <i>par excellence</i>, +but who much prefers the filthy atmosphere +of the gambling den, or the variety dive of frontier +towns, to the pure air of the prairies. These are the +exceptions, and fortunately are in a "distinguished +minority," and it is but just that all such swaggering +humbugs should be loaded with the obloquy they +deserve, and should be appropriately branded, even +as their master's beasts are branded, that all the +world might know them, wherever found, for the +infamous humbugs that they are. My purpose +here is to champion the frank, honest, energetic, +industrious young fellows who engage in this calling +from pure motives, most of whom have fair educations, +and some of whom are graduates of Eastern +colleges—who are brimful of pure horse-sense, and +who are ambitious to earn an honest living, and to +make themselves useful to their employers in every +possible way, aside from their ability to snare a +bullock. Many of these are Nature's noblemen, +and their good qualities shine through their rough +garb, as the sunlight of heaven shines through a +<span class="pagenum">[310]</span> +rift in a dark cloud. Their hearts, though encased +in blue flannel or water-proof canvas, are as light +as the air they breathe; their minds as pure and +clear as the mountain brooks from which they love +to drink; their whole natures as generous and liberal +as the boundless meadows upon which their herds +graze, and their hospitality only limited by the +supply of food and other comforts they have with +which to entertain a visitor. Strangers are always +welcome at their shacks, and no matter at what time +of day or night you arrive, you and your horses +are promptly taken care of, you are invited to stay +and eat, to sleep if you will, and are promptly given to +understand that the best the ranch affords is at your +command. I have known many of these men intimately, +and have never known one who would not +cheerfully share his last ounce of food, his last dollar, +or his only blanket with a needy stranger; or +who would not walk and allow an unfortunately +dismounted traveler to ride his horse half way to +camp, or the ranch, even though that might be a +hundred miles away. They invariably refuse all +remuneration for services or accommodations of such +nature, and if it be pressed upon them, the stranger is +liable to be told in language more expressive than +elegant they don't make their living by taking care +of tenderfeet.</p> + +<p>As a class, they are brimful and running over with +wit, merriment, and good humor. They are always +ready for any bit of innocent fun, but are not perpetually +spoiling for a fight, as has so often been +said of them. They are at peace with all men, and +would not be otherwise from choice. As a rule, if a +<span class="pagenum">[311]</span> +man quarrel with one of them, he forces the war and +is himself to blame. Their love of fun often leads +to trouble, though generally because the victim of +it does not know how, or is not willing, to either +"chip in" or excuse himself. They are fond of +"piping off" anything that is particularly conspicuous, +or <i>vice versa</i>, no matter to whom it belongs, +and they dislike to see snobbish airs assumed in +their country, though such might pass current in +any Eastern city.</p> + +<p>I once saw a dude step out of a hotel in Cheyenne, +wearing a silk hat, cut-away coat, lavender pants, +high pressure collar, scarlet velvet scarf, patent +leather shoes, etc. Several cowboys were riding +through the street and spied him.</p> + +<p>"Say, Dick," said one of them, "what de ye +s'pose it is?"</p> + +<p>"Let's tackle it and see," said Dick; "it looks +alive."</p> + +<p>"Pard, hadn't you better put them togs on ice?" +queried another of the party. "They're liable to +spile in this climate."</p> + +<p>The youth was highly offended, gave them a +haughty, withering look, and without deigning a +reply of any kind turned to walk back into the hotel.</p> + +<p>"Let's brand it," said Dick, and as quick as a +flash a lariat fell about the dude, closed round his +slender waist, and he was a prisoner. The boys +gathered round him, chaffed him good-naturedly, +took his hat and rubbed the nap the wrong way, put +some alkali mud on his shoes, and then released him, +bidding him "go in and put on some clothes." A +little good-natured repartee on his part, or an invitation +<span class="pagenum">[312]</span> +to drink or smoke, or a pleasant reply of any +kind, would have let him out without any unpleasant +treatment; but he scorned them, and they considered +it a duty to society to post him on how to act +when away from home.</p> + +<p>A friend relates having seen an eccentric individual, +with a long plaid ulster, walking along the +principal street in Miles City, and as the sun came +out from behind a cloud and commenced to beam +down with a good deal of force, he raised a green +umbrella. A "cow puncher" rode up and, pointing +at the umbrella, asked:</p> + +<p>"What is she pard? Fetch her in and put a drink +in 'er."</p> + +<p>The man was both scared and mad. He thought +he had been insulted by one of those "notorious, +ruffianly cowboys." He called "police." But the +police was not at hand, and in the disturbance that +followed his umbrella was spirited away, he knew +not whither or by whom, and his plaid ulster was +somewhat damaged by contact with mother earth. +All he would have had to do to preserve the peace +and his self-respect, would have been to answer the +fellow good-naturedly in the first place, either +declining or accepting his invitation, and he could +have gone on his way unmolested; but he brought +a small-sized riot on himself by assuming a dignity +that was out of place in that country and under such +circumstances.</p> + +<p>In common with all other human beings, the cowboy +requires and must have amusement of some +kind, and his isolated condition, depriving him of +the privileges of theatres, parties, billiards, and +<span class="pagenum">[313]</span> +other varieties of amusement that young men in the +States usually indulge in; of the refining and restraining +influences of the female sex, it is but natural that +his exuberance of spirit should find sport of other +kinds. His only sources of amusement on the ranch +are his rifle, revolver, bronco, lariat, and cards, and +in course of time he tires of these and seeks a change. +He goes to town and meets there some of his comrades +or acquaintances, and they indulge in some +wild pranks, which to Eastern people, and especially +those who happen to fall victims to their practical +jokes, appear ruffianly. Their love of excitement +and adventure sometimes gets the better of their +judgment, and they carry their fun to excess. They +corral the crew of a train which has stopped at the +station, and amuse themselves and the passengers by +making the conductor, brakeman, baggageman, +engineer, and fireman dance a jig to the music of six-shooters. +In one instance they boarded the train +and made the Theo. Thomas orchestra (which happened +to be aboard) give them an extemporaneous +concert. They have even been known to carry their +revels to a still worse stage than this, and to resort +to acts of real abuse and injury against defenseless +people. But such acts on the part of genuine cowboys +are rare. They are usually perpetrated by the +class, already mentioned, of "fresh" young chaps +or objectional characters who drift into the business +from other than pure motives, and frequently by +pretended cowboys who are not such in any sense of +the term. But by whomsoever perpetrated, such acts +are highly offensive to and vigorously condemned +by the respectable element in the business, both +<span class="pagenum">[314]</span> +employers and employés. Much odium has attached +to the fraternity by such conduct, and much more +by reason of crimes committed by others and +charged to this class, so that the cowboy is in +much worse repute among Eastern people than he +would be if better known by them. And notwithstanding +all the hard things with which these men +have been charged, I had much rather take my +chances, as to safety of life and personal property, +in a country inhabited only by them than in any +Eastern town or city with all their police "protection." +When sojourning in cattle countries, I have +left my camp day after day and night after night, +with valuable property of various kinds lying in and +about it, without any attempt at concealment. I +have left my horses and mules to graze, wholly +unguarded, several days and nights together, and +though on my return I may have seen that my camp +had been visited, probably by several men, not a +thing had been disturbed, except that perchance +some of them had been hungry and had eaten a meal +<span class="pagenum">[315]</span> +at my expense. It is the custom of the country to +leave camps and cabins at any time, and for as long a +time as necessary, without locking up or concealment +of any kind, and instances of stealing under such +circumstances are almost unheard of, while he who +would leave personal property similarly exposed +within the bounds of civilization would scarcely hope +to find it on his return.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_314.jpg" alt="314" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">ON THE TRAIL.</p> + +<p>An incident may serve to illustrate how suddenly +Eastern people change their opinions of cowboys +on close acquaintance. I was going west a few +years since on the Northern Pacific Railroad, and +stepping off the train at Dickinson, Dak., met +Howard Eaton, an old-time friend and fellow hunter, +a typical cowboy, who has charge of a ranch and +a large herd of cattle in the "Bad Lands" on the +Little Missouri river. He was dressed in the regulation +costume of the craft—canvas pants and jacket, +leather <i>chaparejos</i>, blue flannel shirt, and broad-brimmed +white felt hat. His loins were girt about +with a well-filled cartridge-belt, from which hung +the six-shooter, which may almost be termed a badge +of the order. Large Mexican spurs rattled at his +heels as he walked. He had ridden thirty-five miles +under the spur, arriving at the station just in time +to catch the train, and having no time to change his +apparel, even if he had wished to do so. He was +going some distance on the same train, and I invited +him into the sleeper. As he entered and walked +down the aisle the passengers became suddenly +alarmed at the apparition—imagining that the train +had been corraled by a party of the terrible cowboys +of whom they had heard such blood-curdling tales, +<span class="pagenum">[316]</span> +and that this was a committee of one sent in to +order them to throw up their hands. They looked +anxiously and timidly from the windows for the rest +of the gang and listened for the popping of revolvers, +but when I conducted him to our section and +introduced him to my wife they began to feel easier. +He remarked casually that he was hungry. We +had a well-filled lunch-basket with us, and, ordering +a table placed in position, my wife hastily spread its +contents before him. He ate as only a cowboy can +eat, especially after having lately ridden thirty-five +miles in three hours. Our fellow passengers became +interested spectators, and after our friend had +finished his repast we introduced him to several of +them. They were agreeably surprised to discover in +conversation his polished manners, his fluent and +well-chosen language. His handsome though sunburned +face, and his kind, genial nature revealed +the fact that his rough garb encased the form of an +educated and cultured gentleman; and before we +had been an hour together they had learned to +respect and admire the wild, picturesque character +whom at first they had feared.</p> + +<p>The skill which some of these men attain in their +profession challenges the admiration of everyone +who is permitted to witness exhibitions of it. As +riders they can not be excelled in the world, and I +have seen some of them perform feats of horsemanship +that were simply marvelous. A cowboy is +required to ride anything that is given him and ask +no questions. A wild young bronco that has never +been touched by the hand of man is sometimes +roped out of a herd and handed over to one of the +<span class="pagenum">[317]</span> +boys with instructions to "ride him." With the +aid of a companion or two he saddles and mounts +him, and the scene that ensues baffles description. +A bucking cayuse must be seen under the saddle, +under a limber cowboy, and on his native heath, in +order to be appreciated at his true worth. His +movements are not always the same—in fact, are +extremely varied, and are doubtless intended to +be a series of surprises even to an old hand at the +business. The bronco is ingenious—he is a strategist. +Sometimes the first break a "fresh" one makes is to +try to get out of the country as fast as possible. +If so, the rider allows him to go as far and as fast +as he likes, for nothing will tame him quicker than +plenty of hard work. But he soon finds that he can +not get out from under his load in this way, and +generally reverses his tactics before going far. Sometimes +he stops suddenly—so suddenly as to throw +an inexperienced rider a long ways in front of him. +But a good cowboy, or "bronco buster," as he would +be termed while engaged in this branch of the business, +is a good stayer and keeps his seat. The horse +may then try to jump out from under his rider—first +forward then backward, or <i>vice versa</i>. Then +he may spring suddenly sidewise, either to right +or left, or both. Then he may do some lofty +tumbling acts, alighting most always stiff-legged; +sometimes with his front end the highest and sometimes +about level, but usually with his hinder parts +much the highest and with his back arched like +that of a mad cat. He keeps his nose as close +to the ground as he can get it. Sometimes he will +utter an unearthly squeal that makes one's blood +<span class="pagenum">[318]</span> +run cold, and will actually eat a few mouthfuls of +the earth when he gets mad enough. Sometimes +he will throw himself in his struggles, and again +as a last resort he will lie down and roll. This +must free him for a moment, but the daring and +agile rider is in the saddle again as soon as the beast +is on his feet. Then the horse is likely to wheel +suddenly from side to side and to spin round +and round on his hind feet like a top; to snort +and bound hither and thither like a rubber ball. +During all this time the valiant rider sits in his +saddle, loose-jointed and limp as a piece of buckskin, +his body swaying to and fro with the motions of his +struggling steed like a leaf that is fanned by the +summer breeze. He holds a tight rein, keeping his +horse's head as high as possible, and plunges the +rowels into his flanks, first on one side and then on +the other, until frequently the ground is copiously +sprinkled with the blood of the fiery steed. The +duration of this scene is limited simply by the +powers of endurance of the horse, for in nearly +every instance he will keep up his struggles until +he sinks upon the ground exhausted, and, for the +time being at least, is subdued. Then he is forced +upon his feet again and may generally be ridden the +remainder of that day without further trouble.</p> + +<p>He is awkward, of course, but rapidly learns the +use of bit and spur, and soon becomes useful. Many +of these ponies, however, are never permanently +subdued, and will "buck" every time they are +mounted. Others will, all through life, start off +quietly when first mounted, but suddenly take a +notion to buck any time in the day. This class is +<span class="pagenum">[319]</span> +the most dangerous, for the best rider is liable to be +caught at a disadvantage when off his guard and +thrown, and many a poor cowboy has been crippled +for life, and many killed outright by these vicious +brutes.</p> + +<p>I have seen "pilgrims" inveigled into riding +"bucking cayuses," either for the sake of novelty, +or because they wanted a mount and there was no +other to be had; but in every instance the trial of +skill between the man and the pony was of short +duration. For an instant there would be a confused +mass of horse, hat, coat-tails, boots, and man, flying +through the air. The horse, on his second upward +trip would meet the man coming down on his first; +the man would see whole constellations—whole +milkyways of stars; the horse would meander off +over the prairie free and untrameled, and as we +would gather up the deformed and disfigured remains +of the pilgrim and dig the alkali dirt out of his +mouth, ears, and eyes, he would tell us, as soon as +he recovered sufficiently to be able to speak, that in +future he "had rather walk than ride."</p> + +<p>But, fortunately for the poor cowboys, there are +many of these ponies who are not vicious, and let us +do full honor to the genuine, noble cow-horse who +is so sure and fleet of foot that he will speedily put +his rider within roping distance of the wildest, swiftest, +longest-horned Texan on the range. Such a horse +always knows when the <i>riata</i> falls right for head or +heels, and if it does not will never slacken his speed, +but keep right on until his rider can recover and +throw again. But when it does fall fair, he puts it +taut, wheels to right or left as directed by a gentle +<span class="pagenum">[320]</span> +pressure of his rider's knee, takes a turn on it or +gives it slack as may be required to down the beef, +and, when this is accomplished, stands stiff-legged, +firm, and immovable as a rock, holding him down +by the strain on the rope, and watching, with eyes +bulged out and ears set forward like those of a jack +rabbit, every struggle of the captive bullock, and +stands pat even when his rider dismounts and leaves +him to brand the steer. When this is done, and his +rider remounts he is ready to repeat the operation +on another animal.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_320.jpg" alt="320" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">SNARED.</p> + +<p>I have frequently known a cowboy to rope a +wild cow, throw her and milk her while his horse +held her down at the other end of a forty foot +rope. Such a horse is worth his weight in gold +to a cattleman, and his kind-hearted and appreciative +rider would go supperless to bed any night, if necessary, +in order that his faithful steed should be well +fed and made comfortable in every possible way.</p> + +<p>The skill that some of these men attain in the use +the lariat is also most marvelous. An expert will +catch a steer by the horns, the neck, the right or +<span class="pagenum">[321]</span> +left fore foot or hind foot, whichever he may choose—and +while running at full speed—with almost unerring +certainty. I have even seen them rope jack +rabbits and coyotes after a long run, and there are +well authenticated instances on record of even bears +being choked to death by the fatal noose when +wielded by a daring "knight of the plains."</p> + +<p>At a "tournament" in a Black Hills town some +months ago, a cowboy caught, threw, and securely +tied a wild steer in fourteen minutes from the time +he was let out of the corral. A similar exhibition +of skill, but on a bronco instead of a steer, which +lately took place in a New Mexico town, is thus +described by an eye witness.</p> + +<p>"After an hour of discussion and pleasant wrangling, +the judge, himself a fine rider, called out the +name of an Arizona cowboy, a champion puncher +and rustler from Apache County; at the same +moment, a wild-eyed bronco was released from the +pen and went bounding and bucking over the miniature +plain. According to the rule, the Apache +County man had to saddle his own bronco, rope the +fleeing horse, and tie him for branding in a certain +time. Being a "rustler", he rustled around so +lively that before the bronco was two hundred feet +away, he had saddled and bridled his own animal, +swung himself onto it, and was off, gathering up his +lariat as he went. The other bronco, seeing the +coming enemy, doubled his pace, dodging here and +there, but at every turn he was met by his pursuer, +who was evidently directed by his rider's legs, and +in an incredibly short space of time the fugitive +was overhauled; the rope whistled through the air, +<span class="pagenum">[322]</span> +and dropped quickly over the bronco's head, notwithstanding +the toss he had made. The instant it fell, +the pursuing bronco rushed and headed off the other, +winding the rope about his legs; then suddenly sitting +back upon his haunches he waited, with ears +back, for the shock. It came with a rush, and the +little horse at the other end of the rope, as was the +intention, went headlong onto the field, the cowboy's +bronco holding him down by the continual strain +that he kept up. The moment the horse went down +the cowboy vaulted from the saddle, untying a rope +from his waist as he ran, and was soon over the +prostrate animal, lashing the hoofs with dextrous +fingers, so that it could have been branded then and +there. This accomplished, up went his hands as a +signal to the judges, who now came galloping over +the field, a roar of cheers and yells greeting the +Apache County man, who had done the entire work +in twelve minutes, thereby securing the prize of +sundry dollars."</p> + +<p>These men use large, heavy, strongly-built saddles, +and by setting the cinch up tight and taking a turn +or two of the rope around the saddle horn they will +snake a large animal, either dead or alive, any +desired distance. I once got one of them to drag a +large bear that we had killed out of a thicket into +an open space, so that we could photograph him.</p> + +<p>Few men take more chances or endure more hardships +than cowboys. In addition to the dangers +they have to contend with from riding vicious horses +and from riding into stampeding herds of wild cattle, +in both of which lines of duty many of them are +crippled and some killed outright, it is frequently +<span class="pagenum">[323]</span> +necessary for them to lay out on the open prairie for +several days and nights together, perhaps in cold, +rough weather, with no other food or bedding than +they can carry on their saddle.</p> + +<p>The slang of the fraternity is highly amusing to +a stranger. It is decidedly crisp, racy, and expressive. +Words are coined or adopted into their vernacular +that will convey their meaning with the +greatest possible force and precision. In addition +to the few illustrations already given in this sketch +there are many others that would be utterly unintelligible +to an Eastern man unless translated. For +instance, when they brand an animal they put the +"jimption" to him; when they want a hot drink +they say "put some jimption in it"; when they +warm up a horse with the spurs or quirt they "fan" +him; when they throw lead from a six-shooter or a +Winchester after a flying coyote they "fan" him. +And "goose hair"—ever sleep on goose hair? This +is a favorite term for any kind of a "soft snap." +When they want to ridicule a tenderfoot, and especially +one who is fond of good living, they say "he +wants a goose-hair bed to sleep on"; when a cowboy +is in luck he is described as having "a goose-hair +pillar," or as "sleepin' with the boss," or as +"ridin' ten horses," etc. Altogether, cowboys are a +whole-souled, large-hearted, generous class of fellows, +whom it is a genuine pleasure to ride, eat, and +associate with, and it is safe to say that nine-tenths +of the hard things that have been said of them have +come from men who never knew, intimately, a single +one of them.</p> + +<p>I contend that a year spent on the hurricane deck +<span class="pagenum">[324]</span> +of a cow-pony is one of the most useful and valuable +pieces of experience a young man can possibly have +in fitting himself for business of almost any kind, +and if I were educating a boy to fight the battles of +life, I should secure him such a situation as soon +as through with his studies at school. A term of +service on a frontier cattle-ranch will take the conceit +out of any boy. It will, at the same time, teach +him self-reliance; it will teach him to endure hardships +and suffering; it will give him nerve and +pluck; it will develop the latent energy in him to a +degree that could not be accomplished by any other +apprenticeship or experience. I know of many of the +most substantial and successful business men in the +Western towns and cities of to-day who served their +first years on the frontier as "cow punchers," and to +that school they owe the firmness of character and +the ability to surmount great obstacles that have +made their success in life possible.</p> + +<p>I claim that the constant communion with Nature, +the study of her broad, pure domains, the days and +nights of lonely cruising and camping on the prairie, +the uninterrupted communion with and study of +self which this occupation affords, tends to make +young men honest and noble—much more so than +the same men would be if deprived of these opportunities, +confined to the limits of our boasted "civilization," +and compelled to constantly breathe the +air of adroitness, of strategy, of competition, of +suspicion and crime. I claim that in many instances a +man who is already dishonest and immoral may be, +and I know that many have been made good and honest +by freeing themselves from the evil influences of +<span class="pagenum">[325]</span> +city life, and betaking themselves to a life on the +plains; by living alone, or nearly so, and habitually +communing with themselves, with Nature, and with +Nature's God. If every young man raised in town +or city could have the advantages of a year or two +of constant study of Nature, untrammeled by +any air of vice, and at the proper time in life, we +should have more honest men, and fewer defaulters, +thieves, and criminals of every class.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_325.jpg" alt="325" /> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_326.jpg" alt="326" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A BEEF-GATHERING SOIREE.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[327]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a>CHAPTER XXXI.</h2> + +<p class="h3">A MONTANA ROUNDUP.</p> + + +<div class="i327"> +<div id="i327_0"> </div> +<div id="i327_1"> </div> +<div id="i327_2"> </div> +<div id="i327_3"> </div> +<div id="i327_4"> </div> +<div id="i327_5"> </div> +<div id="i327_6"> </div> +<div id="i327_7"> </div> +<div id="i327_8"> </div> +<div id="i327_9"> </div> +<div id="i327_10"> </div> +<div id="i327_11"> </div> +<div id="i327_12"> </div> +<div id="i327_13"> </div> +<div id="i327_14"> </div> +<div id="i327_15"> </div> +<div id="i327_16"> </div> +<div id="i327_17"> </div> +<div id="i327_18"> </div> +<div id="i327_19"> </div> + +<p class="chapter"><span class="chapter">ESCRIPTIONS</span> +of cattle roundups in the far +West have been written, and yet many of +the characteristic scenes that the spectator +at one of these semi-annual "beef-gathering +parties" will observe have not been described. +There is so much to interest and +excite the denizen of the States who first +attends a roundup on the great plains that +I am tempted to speak of some of the more prominent +points in this "greatest show on earth," for +the benefit of such as have not had the pleasure of +witnessing it.</p> + +<p>The interests of cattlemen in general are so +closely linked, and there is such urgent need of a +concert of action among them, that in all Western +cattle-growing districts they have organized into +local or general associations, in which the most perfect +harmony and good fellowship exists, and in +which the interests of every individual member are +closely guarded and fostered by the organization as +a whole. These associations meet in the spring and +fall of each year and fix the dates for holding the +roundups, usually prescribing the general boundaries +in which each local outfit shall work. The spring +roundup, which is the one now under consideration, +<span class="pagenum">[328]</span> +is held in the latter part of April or early part +of May in Wyoming and Montana, and earlier or +later in other States and Territories, according to +the nature of the climate, weather, etc. A roundup +district is usually limited to the valley of some large +stream, or its boundaries are designated by other +prominent and well-known landmarks.</p> + +<p>From five to fifteen miles, or even more, each way +from the ranch, are claimed by each owner or company +as a range, though no effort is made usually +to keep the stock within these boundaries. They +are allowed the freedom of the hills and table-lands +in every direction, the foreman merely being +required to know about where to find them when +wanted, and to prevent them from going, for instance, +west of the Tongue and north of the Yellowstone +rivers or south into Wyoming.</p> + +<p>As a typical spring roundup, let us observe the +one recently conducted on the Powder river in +Montana, for it furnished, perhaps, as many interesting +episodes and incidents as are usually seen at one +of these entertainments. This stream rises in the +Big Horn Mountains in Northern Wyoming and +flows northeast through Southern Montana to the +Yellowstone, into which it empties its wealth of +crystal fluid just east of Miles City. Up to a few +years ago its valley and adjacent table-lands were +peopled only by roving bands of Sioux, Cheyenne, +Pegan, or Crow Indians, while vast herds of buffaloes +and antelopes grazed upon its nutritious grasses. +The lordly elk and the timid, agile deer roamed at +will through the groves of cottonwood and box-elder +that fringe its banks, and the howl of the coyote +<span class="pagenum">[329]</span> +made night musical to the ear of the savage in his +wigwam. But how changed the scene of to-day! +An iron railroad bridge, that of the great Northern +Pacific, spans the stream near its mouth, over which +roll trains of palace coaches at short intervals, while +commercial freights <i>en route</i> from the Atlantic to +the Pacific, or <i>vice versa</i>, pass over it almost every +hour. From the mouth of the stream to the foot-hills +of the mountain range, amid whose snow-capped +peaks it rises, is now a well-beaten road over +which supplies for the various ranches in the valley +are carried, and over which the gallant knights of +the plains—the cowboys—dash to and fro in the +performance of their various duties.</p> +</div> + +<p>At intervals of ten to fifteen miles along the valley, +the traveler passes ranches, the headquarters +of the wealthy cattlemen whose herds roam all over +the valleys, the hills, and table-lands for many +miles in every direction, designating the companies +or individual owners merely by the brands their +herds bear (which is the custom of the country). +We shall encounter on our way the "MC" outfit, +whose herd numbers fourteen thousand head; the +"WL" brand, six thousand head; "7OL," one +thousand head; "S-I," twenty-five thousand head; +"<i>N</i>," twenty-five thousand head; +"<img src="images/illo_329.jpg" alt="" />," +five thousand +head; and many other smaller and some larger +herds. The buildings and improvements consist +generally of substantial, roomy log houses, stables +for the horses, corrals or strong yards in which +large herds of cattle may be confined for branding, +etc. The Montana Stock Growers' Association has +also built public branding-pens at intervals of four +<span class="pagenum">[330]</span> +to six miles along the river. The owners of the +stock seldom live on the ranches themselves, many +of them being residents of Eastern cities, and others +having their homes in the railroad towns within +convenient distance of the ranches. The occupants +of the "shack," as the ranch house is called, are +the foreman, the cook, and a sufficient number of +cowboys or herders to look after and handle the +stock properly. Some of the choice bits of natural +meadow are fenced and hay cut on them, and each +ranch has more or less hay land about the heads of +creeks on its range, for it is necessary to make +hay enough each season to feed at least the calves +and some of the weaker cattle through the severe +blizzards that so frequently occur in winter. The +cattle belonging to each of these ranches are allowed +to range almost at will over the adjacent hills and +table-lands, though the limits proper of each range +are supposed to extend ten to fifteen miles in each +direction from the ranch house.</p> + +<p>The Montana Stock Growers' Association, at its +meeting in March, designated the seventh day of +May as the day for beginning the roundup in the +Powder river district this year, and selected a foreman +to take charge of it who had seen many years +of service in the saddle, who has a happy faculty of +controlling the men under his charge perfectly, and +yet of putting himself on free and friendly terms +with them all. He can throw a <i>riata</i> with such precision +as to take a steer by the head or by either foot +he wishes in almost every instance, and beasts as +well as men soon learn to obey his wishes.</p> + +<p>Anyone who has only seen the great plains late in +<span class="pagenum">[331]</span> +summer or in the autumn, after the grass has become +sere and yellow and the foliage along the streams +has faded, can have little idea of the pristine beauty +presented by such a valley as that of the Powder +river in early springtime, when the earth is carpeted +with verdure, the river banks lined with newly-clothed +trees and shrubs, and the meadows blooming +with flowers, the beauty and brilliancy of which +can not be excelled anywhere. The winter snows +have melted; the spring rains have come and gone, +leaving the earth fresh and moist; the climate +is mild and delightful. Under all these charming +conditions who would not enjoy the scene unfolding +before our eyes as we mount our spirited broncos +and ride out to the place of rendezvous which has +been appointed near the mouth of the river, and +where the clans are already gathering. Temporary +camps have been established by those who have +arrived in advance of us, around which groups of +cowboys are lounging. A band of horses and ponies +which they have liberated is contentedly grazing on +the river bank, and several small bands of cattle +may be seen in various directions, most of them +at considerable distances away, for they are wild +and avoid the presence of human beings. A cloud +of dust is faintly visible on top of the divide +nearly three miles to the south, and on examining +it carefully with our glasses we find it is being raised +by a jolly band of five cowboys, who are riding like +mad, each leading four or five horses. Looking away +to the north we see a mess-wagon, or "chuck outfit," +approaching, drawn by four horses, and from the slow +and labored gait at which they toil along they doubtless +<span class="pagenum">[332]</span> +bring abundant store of good things. Behind +this, two riders are driving ten head of loose horses. +And these small detachments continue to come in +from every point of the compass all the forenoon, +until, when all the ranches in this roundup district +have furnished their levies, the force numbers one +hundred and thirty-five men and about twelve hundred +horses. Each rider has his "string" of horses, +numbering from five to seven, and changes two or +three times a day, riding one horse twenty to forty +miles, and sixty to seventy-five miles a day is considered +a fair day's work for a man. The reserve +herd is placed in charge of a herder or "wrangler," +who is required to keep them under perfect control, +and to be able to produce such of them as are +wanted on short notice, the <i>riata</i> being frequently +used in taking them out of the herd. The foreman +has arrived and takes charge of the entire outfit, +placing it on a thoroughly effective and working +basis for the morrow.</p> + +<p>At 3.30 o'clock in the morning the men are called. +They are out of their blankets and dressed in less +time than it takes an Eastern man to rub his eyes +and yawn; each catches and saddles his horse; +breakfast is hastily eaten, and at the first dawn of +day, they ride out in twos or fours in every direction. +These men present a decidedly picturesque, not to +say brigandish, appearance as they dash out across +the prairie; their red, blue, and gray flannel shirts, +canvas pants, leather <i>chaparejos</i>, broad sombreros, +colored silk handkerchiefs knotted around their +necks; well-filled cartridge-belts, from which hang +their six-shooters; their high-top cowhide boots +<span class="pagenum">[333]</span> +and large Mexican spurs, making up a <i>tout ensemble</i> +that a band of Texan rangers might envy. Their +work, their fun, their excitement now begin, for +small bunches of cattle are sighted in every direction, +which are to be rounded up and driven along, +and there is no time to lose. As they dash hither +and thither after the fleeing, scurrying creatures, +the proverbial good nature, high spirits, and enthusiasm +of these "knights of the plains" find vent in +a series of hoots, yells, jokes, "ki-yis," bits of +song, and grotesque slang expressions, many of +which are strikingly expressive when understood, but +which would be utterly unintelligible to a fresh tenderfoot. +The majority of these Western cattle are +almost as wild as the native buffaloes whose place +they have usurped, having never been subjected to +the dominion of man, and rarely, in fact, have they +ever come face to face with him. At the first +approach of the riders, therefore, they throw up +their heads and tails, look wild, sniff the air, and +then turn and run like a herd of antelopes. But +by fast riding and skillful maneuvering they are +soon rounded up and herded. It is a bit of the true +spice of life for these dare-devil riders to find a +vicious, rebellious, "alecky" young critter who concludes +that he won't be rounded up; and no sooner has +the belligerent shaken his burly head, pawed the +earth a few times, turned tail to his pursuers, broken +through the skirmish line and sailed away across the +prairie, than three, four, or perhaps half a dozen cayuses, +who are also now in their elements, are headed +for him. Lariats are loosened from the saddle horn, +spurs rattle as they pierce the flanks of the already +<span class="pagenum">[334]</span> +willing and eager steeds, and there ensues a wild, +headlong, reckless race that can have but one result. +The steer may be fleet of foot, and may lead, through +a half-mile dash, but sooner or later is headed off +and turned. He may make a fresh break in another +direction, but his pursuers are down on him again +like a pack of hungry wolves on a stray sheep. And +now, as the riders close in on him, they belabor him +unmercifully with their heavy coils of rope, or with +rawhide "quirts" carried for this purpose. If particularly +wild, obstinate, or obstreperous, he still +keeps breaking away, and refusing to come into +camp. A <i>riata</i> glistens in the sunlight, whistles +through the air and falls over his head. Another +follows and puts a foot in the stocks. Taking two +or three turns of the lariat around the horn of the +saddle, the men ride in opposite directions till the +ropes come taut, the steer is fairly lifted from the +earth and falls with a dull and thudful sound that +may be heard a hundred yards. Then another rope +is thrown over his head, the spurs are put to the +faithful ponies, they are transposed for the time into +draft horses, and the luckless victim is ignominiously +"snaked" toward the herd, while the other boys +"bang" him with coils of rope from behind. A few +yards of this mode of travel is usually sufficient to +tame the wildest long-horn Texan on the range, and +a few vigorous bellows soon announce an unconditional +surrender. The ropes are then taken off, he +is let up, and it is short work to put him in the herd.</p> + +<p>The valiant riders scour the country hither and +thither, far and near, "gathering beef" from east, +west, north, and south. Every hoof found, regardless +<span class="pagenum">[335]</span> +of the brand it bears, or whether it bears any, is +picked up by this human cyclone and carried along. +Toward noon the herds already gathered are driven +into the branding pens, where they are corraled. +The calves are snatched out and the "jimption is +socked to 'em," as the boys express it. So with any +yearlings or older stock that have escaped the branding-iron +in former seasons. One or more irons for +each owner are kept hot, and when a roper has +"downed" an animal he or the foreman calls for the +iron wanted, and setting his foot upon the victim's +neck places the red-hot device on its ribs, and throws +his weight upon it, leaving a deep, indelible, and +time-enduring trade-mark which even he who runs +may read. Its ears, dew lap, or the loose skin on its +jaw are then slit and it is turned loose again.</p> + +<p>When a band is branded it is turned out; the +party who brought it in change horses, and away +they go for another run. No special branders are +now provided, every man in the outfit, the cook and +wrangler excepted, being required to "swaller dust" +and "wrestle calves" in the pens. Near the middle +of the day each squad comes in after finishing their +catch, make a run on the mess-wagons and devour +the substantial provender with which they are +loaded, with appetites born only of the labor and +excitement in which they are engaged.</p> + +<p>The afternoon is usually devoted to branding the +last bunches brought in, and to "cutting out," returning +or throwing over such stock as does not belong +to any of the ranchmen in this district. Strays are +frequently picked up whose brands show them to be +a hundred miles or more from home. When a number +<span class="pagenum">[336]</span> +of these are collected they are cut out and a +squad of men drive them onto their proper ranges. +This process is called "throwing over."</p> + +<p>The cooks, teamsters, and wranglers usually move +camp up the river every morning to the next branding +pen, or to some other spot designated by the +foreman, to which rounders bring their cattle during +the day. A portion of the stock collected, called the +"cavoy," is carried along with the camp all the time +and herded by the "holders," but large numbers +after being branded are bunched and again thrown +off onto the range each day. Thus the outfit moves +slowly up the stream, making a clean sweep of everything +to the middle of the divides on the east and +west, until the Wyoming roundup on the same +stream is met coming down. And now, having completed +the work in hand, the outfit breaks up, and +the men return to the respective ranches on which +they are employed or go to other roundups where +their services are needed.</p> + +<p>The object of the fall roundup is to gather +in and cut out the fat steers and drive them to +the railroad stations for shipment to Eastern +markets. The work being almost entirely on adult +animals is even more laborious and hazardous +than that of the spring, where the majority of +animals actually handled are calves. Hard riding, +vigorous "cutting," and daring dashes into headstrong, +panic-stricken, stampeding herds are necessary +here, and roping and dragging out by main +strength are hourly occurrences. Branding-irons +are also carried along, and any calves missed on the +spring roundup, or dropped after it, are subjected to +<span class="pagenum">[337]</span> +the fiery ordeal, just as their brothers and sisters +were at the Mayday party.</p> + +<p>Stray cattle, either calves or adults, bearing no +brand and found alone or herded with others already +branded, but whose parentage can not be definitely +determined, are called "Mavericks," and in some +districts are sold at auction and the proceeds given +to the school fund. In others, they become the +property of the man or company upon whose range +they are found. This privilege, however, is seriously +abused by dishonest ranchmen and cattle +thieves, who infest every Western cattle-growing +district. These men ride out over the ranges at +times when they are not likely to be observed, carrying +their branding-irons along, and rope and brand +every animal they can find that does not already +bear a brand. In some cases these are allowed to +remain where found, for the time being, but are +usually driven onto the range claimed by the pirate +who does the work. In other instances, these men +first drive the unbranded stock onto their own +ranges, and then, under cover of the Maverick law, +openly claim and brand it as their own. Many +large herds have been accumulated almost wholly +by this system of thievery, and there are wealthy +cattlemen in the West to-day who never bought or +honestly owned a dozen head of the thousands that +bear their brand. A certain cowboy, when asked by +an Eastern man what constitutes a Maverick, replied: +"It's a calf that you find and get your brand on +before the owner finds it and gets his on."</p> + +<p>But it is risky business, this cattle stealing, and +many a man who has been caught at it has been left +<span class="pagenum">[338]</span> +on the prairies as food for the coyotes, or has ornamented +the nearest cottonwood tree until the magpies +and butcher birds have polished his bones.</p> + +<p>Branding is a decidedly cruel proceeding, and +would doubtless come under the bane of Mr. Bergh's +displeasure were he here to witness it. Yet it seems +a necessary evil, there being no other known means +of marking cattle so effectually and indelibly.</p> + +<p>Parties of ladies frequently go out from the towns +or cities to see the roundup, not knowing or thinking +of the painful features of it. They enjoy the +ride across the prairies and through the valleys. The +beautiful scenery, the grotesque "Bad Lands," the +red, scoria-capped hills, the beautiful green meadows, +and the fringes of green trees that mark the meanderings +of the streams, all delight and interest +them; they enjoy the displays of horsemanship given +by the valorous cowboys as they wheel and cavort +hither and thither in pursuit of scurrying bands of +cattle; they enjoy the stampeding and wild flight, +the "knotting" and "holding" of the large herds, +all so skillfully and cleverly performed; they enjoy +the sight of the thousand and more loose horses, +grazing and scampering over the plains; they enjoy +the fresh, pure air, the wholesome noon repast in +the shade of the great cottonwood trees, and many +other pleasant phases of the affair. But when the +fire is lit and the murderous irons inserted in it; +when the captive creatures are dragged forth lowing, +murmuring, and bellowing; when the red-hot iron is +pressed into their quivering, smoking sides until the +air is laden with the odor of burning hair and roasting +flesh, and the poor creature writhes and struggles +<span class="pagenum">[339]</span> +in its agony, the roundup is robbed of its +romance, and the ladies are ready to start for home +at once.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/illo_339.jpg" alt="339" /> +</div> + +<div class="trnote"> + +<p class="h4">Transcriber's Notes:</p> + +<p class="noin"> +Minor punctuation errors changed without note.<br /> +<br /> + +Words with multiple and archaic spellings left as in original.<br /> +<br /> + +<b>Spelling changes:</b><br /> +<br /> + +Table of Contents Chapter 1. "Enchance" changed to "Enhance".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 63 "barrrier" changed to "barrier".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 67 "ordinarly" changed to "ordinarily".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 123 "fuanace" changed to "furnace".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 167 "playad" changed to "played".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 171 "catchng" changed to "catching".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 201 "conspicious" changed to "conspicuous".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 204 "intstead" changed to "instead".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 237 "similiar" changed to "similar".<br /> +<br /> + +p. 294 "firmanent" changed to "firmament"</p> +.<br /> + +p. 296 "Novemver" changed to "November".<br /> +</div> + +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Cruisings in the Cascades, by George O. 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