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diff --git a/36657-h/36657-h.htm b/36657-h/36657-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2b8c9b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/36657-h/36657-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13284 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> + <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + +<head> + + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii" /> + + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Log of a Sea-Waif, by Frank T. Bullen, F.R.G.S.. + </title> + + <style type="text/css"> + + body { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + } + + #booktitle { + letter-spacing:3px; + } + + .cen, + .centered { + text-align:center; + font-weight:bold; + } + + div.centered { + text-align:center; + } + + div.centered table { + margin-left:auto; + margin-right:auto; + text-align:left; + } + + .figure, + .figcenter, + .figleft, + .figright { + padding:1em; + text-align:center; + font-size:0.8em; + border:none; + margin:0; + text-indent:1em; + } + + .figure img, + .figcenter img, + .figleft img, + .figright img { + border:none; + } + + .figure p, + .figcenter p, + .figleft p, + .figright p { + margin:0; + text-indent:1em; + } + + .figcenter { + margin:auto; + } + + .figleft { + float:left; + } + + .h1 { + font-size:2em; + margin:.67em 0; + } + + .h1, + .h2, + .h3, + .h4, + .h5, + .h6 { + font-weight:bolder; + text-align:center; + text-indent:0; + } + + h1, + h2, + h3, + h4, + h5, + h6, + hr { + text-align:center; + } + + .h2 { + font-size:1.5em; + margin:.75em 0; + } + + h2 + h3 { + margin-bottom:2em; + } + + .h3 { + font-size:1.17em; + margin:.83em 0; + } + + .h4 { + margin:1.12em 0 ; + } + + .h5 { + font-size:.83em; + margin:1.5em 0 ; + } + + h5 { + margin-bottom:1%; + margin-top:1%; + } + + .h6 { + font-size:.75em; + margin:1.67em 0; + } + + hr { + margin-right:25%; + margin-left:25%; + width:50%; + } + + hr.chapter { + margin-top:6em; + margin-bottom:4em; + } + + hr.short { + margin-top:1em; + margin-right:30%; + margin-left:30%; + width:40%; + } + + hr.tb { + margin:2em 25%; + width:50%; + } + + .noin { + text-indent:0; + } + + .note { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + font-size:0.9em; + } + + p { + text-align:justify; + margin-top:.3em; + margin-bottom:.3em; + text-indent:1em; + } + + p.author { + text-align:right; + margin-right:10%; + } + + p.caption { + text-indent:0; + text-align:center; + font-weight:bold; + margin-bottom:2em; + } + + p.index { + margin:0; + padding-left:3em; + text-indent:-3em; + } + + p.out { + text-align : justify; + margin-top : .1em; + margin-bottom : .1em; + margin-right: 4em; + text-indent : -2em; + } + + p.right { + text-align:right; + } + + p.spacer { + margin-top:2em; + margin-bottom:3em; + } + + p.tb { + margin-top:2em; + } + + .pagenum { +/* visibility:hidden; remove comment out to hide page numbers */ + position:absolute; + right:2%; + font-size:75%; + color:gray; + background-color:inherit; + text-align:right; + text-indent:0; + font-style:normal; + font-weight:normal; + font-variant:normal; + } + + .smcap { + font-variant:small-caps + } + + .tdl { + text-align:left; + } + + .tdlo { + text-align:left; + text-indent:0em; + } + + .tdr { + text-align:right; + padding-right:1em; + } + + .tdrfirst { + text-align:right; + padding-right:1em; + font-size:80%; + } + + .topnote { + text-indent:0; + text-align:center; + font-size:80%; + font-weight:bold; + margin-bottom:1em; + } + + .topbox { + margin-left:15%; + margin-right:15%; + margin-top:5%; + margin-bottom:5%; + padding:1em; + color:black; + border:2px solid black; + } + + .trnote { + margin-left:15%; + margin-right:15%; + margin-top:5%; + margin-bottom:5%; + padding:1em; + background-color:#f6f2f2; + color:black; + border:1px dotted black; + } + + </style> + +</head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Log of a Sea-Waif, by Frank T. Bullen + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Log of a Sea-Waif + Being Recollections of the First Four Years of My Sea Life + +Author: Frank T. Bullen + +Release Date: July 8, 2011 [EBook #36657] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LOG OF A SEA-WAIF *** + + + + +Produced by Greg Bergquist, Matthew Wheaton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<h1 id="booktitle">THE LOG OF A SEA-WAIF</h1> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="topbox"> + +<p class="h3">By FRANK T. BULLEN.</p> + +<p><b>The Log Of a Sea-Waif.</b> Being Recollections +of the First Four Years of my Sea Life. Illustrated. +Uniform edition, 12mo. Cloth, $1.50.</p> + +<p>The brilliant author of "The Cruise of the Cachalot" +and "Idylls of the Sea" presents in this new +work the continuous story of the actual experiences +of his first four years at sea. In graphic and picturesque +phrases he has sketched the events of +voyages to the West Indies, to Bombay and the +Coromandel coast, to Melbourne and Rangoon. +Nothing could be of more absorbing interest than this +wonderfully vivid account of foks'l humanity and +the adventures and strange sights and experiences attendant +upon deep-sea voyages. It is easy to see +in this book an English companion to our own "Two +Years before the Mast."</p> +<br /> + +<p><b>Idylls of the Sea.</b> 12mo. Cloth, $1.25.</p> + +<p>"This book is truly fascinating reading.... To +everything Mr. Bullen brings enthusiasm, a passion +for accuracy, and the good writing that comes of +knowledge and sincerity."—<i>London Academy.</i></p> + +<p>"A fresh sea-breeze blows through the whole +book, and entertainment and instruction are delightfully +blended."—<i>The Daily Mail.</i></p> + +<br /> +<p><b>The Cruise of the Cachalot.</b> <i>Round the +World after Sperm Whales.</i> Illustrated. +12mo. Cloth, $1.50.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Rudyard Kipling</span> writes the author:</p> + +<p>"It is immense—there is no other word. I've +never read anything that equals it in its deep-sea +wonder and mystery, nor do I think that any book +before has so completely covered the business of +whale-fishing, and at the same time given such real +and new sea pictures. I congratulate you most +heartily. It's a new world that you've opened the +door to."</p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p class="h3">D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, New York.</p> + +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_1" id="illo_1"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_005.jpg" alt="005" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">It was a bleak, gloomy day in January when I first beheld her. +<br /> +<span style="float:right; margin-right:8em">(See page 3.)</span> +</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h3">THE</p> + +<p class="h2">LOG OF A SEA-WAIF</p> + +<p class="h3">BEING RECOLLECTIONS OF<br /> +THE FIRST FOUR YEARS<br /> +OF MY SEA LIFE</p> + +<br /> + +<p class="h3">BY</p> + +<p class="h2">FRANK T. BULLEN, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class="h4"><i>Author of The Cruise of the Cachalot,<br /> +Idylls of the Sea, Etc.</i></p> + +<p class="spacer"></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_006.jpg" alt="006" /> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"></p> + +<p class="h4">WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h3">NEW YORK</p> + +<p class="h2">D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</p> + +<p class="h3">1899</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h4"><span class="smcap">Copyright,</span> 1899,</p> +<p class="h3"><span class="smcap">By</span> D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.</p> +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h5">TO</p> + +<p class="h4">J. ST. LÖE STRACHEY,<br /> +IN<br /> +GRATEFUL RECOGNITION<br /> +OF HIS UNWEARYING ENCOURAGEMENT OF AND<br /> +PERSISTENT KINDNESS TO THE AUTHOR,<br /> +THIS BOOK<br /> +IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[vii]</span></p> + +<p class="h2">PREFACE.</p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p><span class="smcap">Notwithstanding</span> the oft-reiterated statement +that the days of sea romance are over, it +may well be doubted whether any period of our +literary history has been more prolific in books +dealing with that subject than the last twenty-five +years. Nor does the output show any signs of +lessening, while the quality of the work done is +certainly not deteriorating. Writers like Kipling, +Cutcliffe Hyne, Joseph Conrad, and Clark Russell, +each in his own style, have presented us with a +series of sea-pictures that need not fear comparison +with any nautical writers' work of any day, although +they deal almost exclusively with the generally +considered unromantic merchant service. +Having admitted this, the question perforce follows, +"Who, then, are you, that presumes to compete +with these master magicians?"</p> + +<p>To that inevitable question I would modestly +answer that the present book is in no sense a competitor +with the works of any writers of nautical +romance. But having been for fifteen years a sea<span class="pagenum">[viii]</span>farer +in almost every capacity except that of a +master, and now, by the greatest kindness and indulgence +on the part of men holding high positions +in the literary world, being permitted to +cater for the reading public in sterling periodicals, +it has often occurred to me how little landsmen +really know of the seaman's actual life. "Two +Years before the Mast," although written by an +American, and of life on board an American merchantman, +has long held undisputed sway as a classic +upon the subject. And for the only reason, as it +seems, that no serious attempt has been made by a +Britisher to do the same thing for life in British +ships.</p> + +<p>Still, conscious as I certainly am of small literary +equipment for such a task, I should hardly +have dared to try my hand but for the encouragement +most generously and persistently given me +by Mr. J. St. Löe Strachey, who, with that large +faith in another's abilities that breeds confidence in +its object, however diffident, urged me strongly to +tell the public some of my experiences of sea life. +And his advice to me was to set them down, just +as they occurred, as nearly as memory would permit. +Of course, it was not possible to cover the +whole field of my experiences at once, except in +the most scrappy and unsatisfactory way, and +therefore I decided to take the first four years<span class="pagenum">[ix]</span>—from +the age of twelve to sixteen. Following my +friend's advice, I have written nothing but the +truth, and, in most cases, I have given the real +names of ships and individuals. If the book, then, +does not please, it will be owing to my lack of +discrimination between interesting and commonplace +details, and not because the pictures given of +life at sea in the forecastle are not faithful.</p> + +<p>And now, as I know that there are a great +many people who do not read prefaces, I will close +mine by humbly commending this "autobiography +of a nobody" to that tremendous tribunal, with +whom lies the verdict of success or failure, and +from whose fiat there is no appeal—the Public.</p> + +<p class="author"> +<span class="smcap">Frank T. Bullen.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Camberwell,</span> <i>September, 1899.</i></p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[xi]</span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="centered"> + <table border="0" + cellpadding="2" + cellspacing="0" + width="80%" + summary="Table of Contents"> + +<tr> + <td class="tdrfirst" width="10%">CHAPTER</td> + <td class="tdl"></td> + <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">I.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">My first ship</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">II.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Outward-bound</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">13</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">III.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Arrival at Demerara</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">26</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">IV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The mutiny and after</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">39</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">V.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The land of liberty</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">52</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">To Havana and after</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">67</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Off to sea again</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">83</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Struggles in Liverpool and London</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">103</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">IX.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Bound for Jamaica</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">110</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">X.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Adventures of a shipwrecked crew</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">126</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">An eventful passage home</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">141</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Adrift in Liverpool once more</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">157</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The dawn of better days</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">171</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XIV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Due south</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">183</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Eight weeks' calm</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">194</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XVI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Up the Indian Ocean to Bombay</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">205</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XVII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">On the Coromandel coast</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XVIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Homeward to London</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">227</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XIX.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A change of nationality</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">240</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XX.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The passage to Melbourne</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">251</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"> + <span class="pagenum">[xii]</span> + XXI. + </td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">I become a colonial coaster</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">264</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Prosperity palls upon me</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">278</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Another queer ship</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">291</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXIV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Deep-water amenities</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">302</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXV.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Proceedings at Rangoon</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">315</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXVI.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Homeward-bound in difficulties</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">329</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXVII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Deep-water coasting</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">339</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXVIII.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Which brings us to port at last</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">353</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">XXIX.</td> + <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Conclusion</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">365</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<p class="h3"> + <span class="pagenum">[xiii]</span> + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. +</p> + +<div class="centered"> + <table border="0" + cellpadding="2" + cellspacing="0" + width="80%" + summary="Table of Contents"> + +<tr> + <td class="tdrfirst" width="70%"> </td> + <td class="tdr">FACING PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">It was a bleak, gloomy day in January when I first beheld her</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">We could have put in several months on that barren patch + of sand quite happily</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_64">64</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">A huge sea rose between us, hiding her from view, and + when we soared on the crest of the next one she was + gone like a foam flake</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_100">100</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">At each tremendous lift and heave of the doomed vessel + all hands would make a frantic rush to the side</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_124">124</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">For a short minute or so they faced him, their eyes glaring + with the lust of superstitious cruelty</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_133">133</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">Everybody on deck was terrified at the apparition of a + mother-naked giant, armed with the cook's axe</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_151">151</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">Twenty miles down the river we ran into the region of a + bush fire</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_276">276</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> + <td class="tdlo">"I suppose you don't believe in this, do you?"</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo_325">325</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p class="h1">THE LOG OF A SEA-WAIF.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[1]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">MY FIRST SHIP.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Many</span> boys clamour for a sea life, will not settle +down to anything ashore, in spite of the pleading +of parents, the warnings of wisdom, or the +doleful experiences of friends. Occasionally at +schools there breaks out a sort of epidemic of +"going to sea," for which there is apparently no +proximate cause, but which rages fiercely for a +time, carrying off such high-spirited youths as can +prevail upon those responsible for them to agree to +their making a trial of a seafaring life. All this is +quite as it should be, of course, in order that Britain +may continue to rule the waves; but many a +parent, whose affectionate projects for the future +of his offspring are thus rudely shattered, bitterly +resents what he naturally considers to be unaccountable +folly.</p> + +<p>In my own case matters were quite otherwise. +I belonged to the ignoble company of the unwanted. +In spite of hard usage, scanty food, and +overwork, I ridiculously persisted in living, until, +at the approach of my twelfth year, an eligible<span class="pagenum">[2]</span> +opening presented itself for me to go to sea. Being +under no delusions whatever as to the prospect +that awaited me, since I had known intimately +those who had experienced all the vicissitudes +of a sailor's life, I was not unduly elated at the +idea. Nevertheless, food and shelter were objects +peculiarly hard of attainment ashore, while I felt +satisfied that at sea these necessaries would be always +provided, even if their quality was none of +the best.</p> + +<p>The vessel in which I obtained a berth as cabin-boy +was commanded by my uncle: a stubborn, +surly, but thoroughly capable old seaman. Soured +by misfortune and cross-grained by nature, it was +small wonder that he had no friends, not even the +sterling honesty of his character, or his high ability, +being sufficient to counterbalance the drawback +of his atrocious temper. His latest command +was not calculated to improve him, for she +was a survival of a bygone day, clumsy as a Dutch +galliot, impoverished by her owner, who was +heartily sick of seeing her afloat, and would have +rejoiced to hear that she was missing; and withal +leaky as a basket. When I first saw her huddled +into a more than usually dirty corner of the West +India Docks, I was filled with wonder to see that +her cutwater was sunken between two swelling +bows like the cheeks of a conventional cherub. +Though I could be no critic of marine construction, +this seemed an anomaly for which there appeared +to be no excuse. Her bowsprit and jibboom +soared into the air exactly like those of the +galleons of old, and her three skimpy masts stood<span class="pagenum">[3]</span> +like broomsticks at different angles—the foremast +especially, which looked over the bows.</p> + +<p>It was a bleak, gloomy day in January when I +first beheld her. The snow, which had fallen +heavily for some days previously, was, wherever it +could be, churned into filthy slush, and where undisturbed, +was begrimed more into the similitude of +soot-heaps than anything else. Everything wore +a pinched, miserable appearance. So forbidding +and hopeless was the outlook that, had it been +practicable, I should certainly have retreated. +But there was no choice; I had burned my +bridges.</p> + +<p>Climbing on deck, I found such a state of confusion +and dirt reigning as I could hardly have believed +possible. Owing to the parsimony of the +owner, not even a watchman had been kept on +board, and, in consequence, the decks had not +smelt a broom for a month. The cargo and stores +were littered about so that progress was gymnastic, +while in every corner and hollow lay the dirty +snow. Several discontented-looking men were +engaged aloft bending sails, others were gradually +coaxing the cargo on deck into the hold, but no +one seemed to have any energy left. Seated upon +an up-ended beef-cask was a truculent-looking individual +whom I instinctively regarded as the boss. +Him, therefore, I timidly approached. Upon hearing +my message, he rolled off his throne and led +the way aft, uttering all the time some, to me, +perfectly unintelligible sounds. I made no pretence +of answering, so I suppose he took me for a +poor idiot hardly worthy of his attention. When,<span class="pagenum">[4]</span> +after some effort, he disappeared down the cabin +companion, I was close behind him, and, understanding +his gestures better than his speech, made +out that here was to be the scene of my future +labours. The place was so gloomy that I could +distinguish none of its features by sight; but the +atmosphere, a rank compound of the reek of bilge-water, +mouldering stores, and unventilated sleeping-places, +caught me by the throat, making my +head swim and a lump rise in my chest. A small +locker by the ladder's foot, reminding me curiously +of a rabbit-hutch, was pointed out to me as my +berth, but I naturally supposed it to be a place for +my bag. How could I have dreamed that it was +also to be my chamber? But everything began +to reel with me, so, blindly clutching the ladder, I +struggled on deck again, where the bitter wind +soon revived me.</p> + +<p>Henceforth no one noticed me, so I roamed +about the deck, prying into holes and corners, +until the stevedores knocked off for dinner. +Presently the mate came towards where I sat, shivering +and solitary, on the windlass end, and made +me understand that I was to come ashore with +him. He conducted me through a labyrinth of +mean streets to a spacious building in a wide thoroughfare, +around which were congregated +many little groups of seamen of all nations. We +entered the place at once, and soon reached a +large bare room crowded with seamen. Here I +was told to wait while Mr. Svensen went to seek +the captain. While I stood bewildered by the +bustle of the crowded place, I heard occasional<span class="pagenum">[5]</span> +hoarse demands for "Three A.B.'s an' one ordinary +for Pernambuck!" "Cook an' stooard for +Kingston, Jamaica!" "All the croo of the <i>Star +o' Peace</i>!" and similar calls, each followed by a +general rush towards the speaker, accompanied by +a rustling of discharges in the air as their owners +sought to attract attention.</p> + +<p>After about an hour's wait I heard the cry of +"Croo of the <i>Arabella</i> here!" which was followed +by the usual rush; but, to the disappointment of +the watchers, the whole of the crew had been already +selected. One by one they squeezed +through the crowd into an office beyond, whither +I managed to follow. I was too much amazed at +the hurly-burly to notice who were to be my future +shipmates, but I paid a sort of awe-struck attention +to the reading of the "articles." Doubtless +much excuse must be made for the officials, +who have to gabble the same rigmarole over so +many times each working day; but I certainly +think some attempt might always be made that +the essential parts of the agreement should be +clear to men who are about to bind themselves for +a long period to abide by it. In our case, the only +words clearly accented, heard, and understood by +all, were the last three, "no spirits allowed." +Each man then signed the articles, or made his +mark, ending with myself, when I found I was +entitled to receive five shillings per month, without +any half-pay or advance. Each of the men received +a month's advance, in the form of a promissory-note, +payable three days after the ship left the +Downs, "providing the said seaman sails in the<span class="pagenum">[6]</span> +said ship." None of them lost any time in getting +away to seek some accommodating (?) shark to +cash their notes at an average discount of about +forty per cent., most of the proceeds being payable +in kind.</p> + +<p>This important preliminary over, I was free till +next morning, when all hands were ordered on +board by ten o'clock. Not feeling at all desirous +of returning to the ship, yet being penniless, and +in a strange part of London, I made my way westward +to the Strand, where I soon managed to pick +up enough for a meal. I spent the night in Hyde +Park in a snug corner, unknown to the police, that +had often served me as a refuge before. At daybreak +I started East, arriving on board at about +half-past nine very tired and hungry. The mate +eyed me suspiciously, saying something which I +guessed to be uncomplimentary, although I was +still unable to understand a word. But, as before, +he did not interfere with me, or set me any task.</p> + +<p>The litter of cases, bales, etc., about the deck +was fast disappearing under the strenuous exertions +of the stevedores and dock-wallopers, while +the raffle of gear aloft was reduced to as near an +approach to orderly arrangement as it could ever +be expected to assume. Presently a grimy little +paddle-steamer came alongside, through the clustering +swarm of barges, and was made fast ahead +and astern. An individual with a stentorian voice, +a pilot suit, mangy fur cap, and brick-red face +mounted the forecastle, bellowing out orders apparently +addressed to no one in particular. Their +effect was at once evident, however, for we began<span class="pagenum">[7]</span> +to move deliberately away from the wharf, splitting +the crowd of barges asunder amid the sulphurous +remarks of their attendants. Once out +into the comparatively clear centre of the dock, we +made good progress until the last lock was +reached; but there we came to a full stop. As yet +none of the crew had arrived, the vessel being +handled by a shore-gang so far. After about a +quarter of an hour's delay, during which the captain +and pilot exhausted their vocabulary in abuse +of the laggards, the latter hove in sight, convoyed +by a motley crowd of tailor's "runners," boarding-masters, +and frowsy looking women.</p> + +<p>They made a funny little group. The sailors +were in that happy state when nothing matters—least +of all the discounter of an advance-note; +hence the bodyguard of interested watchers, who +would leave no stone unturned to see that their +debtors went in the ship, although being under the +vigilant eyes of the police, they dared not resort +to violent means. The ladies, possessing but a +fast-fading interest in outward bounders, were +probably in evidence more from slackness of business +than any more sentimental cause. But having +cajoled or coerced Jack to the pierhead, he +seemed unpersuadable to the final step of getting +aboard. Again and again a sailor would break +loose and canter waveringly shoreward, only to be +at once surrounded by his escort and hurriedly +hauled back again. At last, exasperated beyond +endurance by the repetition of these aimless antics, +the skipper sprang ashore followed by the +pilot. Bursting in upon the squabbling crowd,<span class="pagenum">[8]</span> +they seized upon a couple of the maudlin mariners, +hurling them on board as if they had been made of +rubber. With like vigour the rest were embarked, +their "dunnage" flung after them; the warps +were immediately let go, and the ship began to +move ahead.</p> + +<p>Outside the dock-gate a larger tug was waiting +in readiness to hook on as soon as we emerged, +and tow us down the river. With a final shove, +accompanied by a stifling belch of greasy smoke, +our sooty satellite shook herself free of us, retreating +hastily within the basin again, while, +obedient to the increasing strain on our hawser +ahead, we passed rapidly out into the crowded +stream.</p> + +<p>During the uneventful trip the shore-gang, +under the direction of Mr. Svensen and the second +mate (who, being also the carpenter, was always +known as "Chips"), worked indefatigably to get +the decks clear for sea—lashing spars, water-casks, +boats, etc. But their efforts were greatly hindered +by the crew, who, not being sufficiently +drunk to lie still in the forecastle, persisted in +tumbling continually about the decks, offering assistance +while getting in everybody's way. In +vain were they repeatedly conducted to their doghole; +no sooner were they left than they were out +again, until the hard-working "lumpers" were +ready to jump on them with rage.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile I grew so weary of standing about +that I was quite grateful when Chips ordered me +to fetch him a marlinespike. What he wanted I +had not the slightest idea; but, unwilling to con<span class="pagenum">[9]</span>fess +such ignorance, I ran forward and asked a labourer +who was stowing the cable. He told me +that it was a pointed bar of iron with a hole at one +end for a lanyard to hang it round the neck by, +adding that I should find some in the fo'lk'sle, +"right forrard in the eyes of her." Away I went +into the thick darkness of the men's dirty cave, +groping my way into its innermost recesses among +the bags, chests, and beds with which the deck was +bestrewn. Reaching the farthest corner, I felt a +great bundle of something upon what I took for +a shelf, which barred my further search. Tugging +heartily at it to get it out of my way, I suddenly +felt it move! I did not wait to investigate, but +floundered back on deck again almost witless from +fright. Breathlessly I reported to Chips my discovery, +which brought him quickly to the spot +with a light. Sure enough there was a sea-bag, +about six feet long, stuffed full—the draw-string +tightly closing the mouth. As soon as it was +touched, there was a movement within. Its contents +were evidently alive. Chips and his assistant +promptly muzzled the bag, dragging it out on +deck, and, casting the cord adrift, turned it bottom +upwards. Out there tumbled, head foremost, +a lanky nigger-lad, who had been missing since the +previous morning and given up as having deserted. +On being questioned as to the meaning +of this freak, he humbly explained that, despairing +of ever getting warm again, he had put on his entire +wardrobe, lain down in his bunk, and crept +into his bag, managing somehow to draw the +string tight over his head; that he had been there<span class="pagenum">[10]</span> +ever since, and was likely to have died there, +since he could not get his arms up again to +let himself out. He was dismissed to work +with a grim promise of being warmed in an altogether +different fashion if he was again guilty of +skulking.</p> + +<p>Upon arrival at Gravesend we anchored; the +tremendous racket made by the cable rushing over +the windlass giving me a great fright. I thought +the bottom of the ship had fallen out. The tug +departed for a berth close at hand, the pilot and +shore-gang leaving us in a wherry. I looked longingly +after them as they went, for I felt strangely +that the last link connecting me with England was +now broken, and, although I had not a single +soul ashore to regret me, or one corner that I +could think of as home, there was sufficient sadness +in the thought of leaving the land of my +birth to bring to my eyes a few unaccustomed +tears.</p> + +<p>Fortunately the cook, a worn-out seaman, +whom, in common with most vessels of that class, +we carried for the double duty of cook and steward, +was now sober enough to get supper ready. In +the emphatic sea-phrase, he "Couldn't boil salt +water without burning it;" but, as nobody expected +anything different, that passed without +comment. My regular duties now began: my +uncle, the captain, giving me my first lesson in +laying the table sea-fashion, showing me where to +find the gear, and so on. The curious atmospheric +compound below was appreciably improved, +but still there was a prismatic halo round<span class="pagenum">[11]</span> +the swinging lamp. The skipper and his two officers +took no notice of it, seeming quite at their +ease as they silently ate their humble meal, though +I got a racking headache. Supper over, I was ordered +to "Clear away the wreck," and get my own +meal in the pantry: a sort of little-ease in a corner +of the cuddy, wherein a man might successfully +block all the crockery from falling out by inserting +his body in its midst. Hungry as I was, I could +not eat there, but stealthily seized the opportunity, +as soon as the skipper had retired to his state-room, +to flee forrard to the galley with the cook. +His domain consisted of an erection about six feet +square, with sliding doors on either side, which +was lashed firmly down to ring-bolts in the deck. +A coal-locker ran across it at the back, its lid forming +a seat. Between it and the stove there was +just room to turn, while most of the cooking utensils—no +great store—had permanent positions on +the range.</p> + +<p>Here, by the dim flicker of an antique contrivance +of a lamp like a handleless teapot—the wick +sticking out of the spout and giving almost as +much smoke as flame,—I spent quite a pleasant +hour with the ancient mariner who ruled there, +eating a hearty supper of biscuit and tea. He was +not in the best of spirits, for the drink was dying +out of him; but his garrulous, inconsequent talk +amused me mightily. At last, feeling that I +might be wanted, I returned to the cabin, where +I found the captain and Chips making melody +with their snores; Mr. Svensen being on deck +keeping watch, for which none of the crew were<span class="pagenum">[12]</span> +yet available. And, finding no other corner +wherein I might creep, I made just such a lair as a +dog might, in the hutch that held my scanty stock +of clothing, and, crawling into it, was soon in the +land of perfect peace.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[13]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">OUTWARD-BOUND.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Something</span> banging at the bulkhead close to +my ear aroused me from a deep sleep in great +alarm. The hole in which I lay was so pitchy +dark that, even when I realised where I was, which +took some little time, I fumbled fruitlessly about +for several minutes before I finally extricated myself. +When at last I stood upright on the cuddy-deck, +I saw the captain seated at the table writing. +He looked up and growled, "Now then, look lively! +Didn't you hear, 'Man the windlass'?" +Alas! I knew no more what he meant than as if he +had spoken in Hebrew; but I gathered somehow +that I ought to be on deck. Up I scrambled into +a bitter, snow-laden north-east wind and darkness +that, but for the strange sheen of the falling flakes, +was almost Egyptian. Shivering as much with +queer apprehensions as with cold, I hurried forrard, +where I found the mate and Chips hard at +work getting the hands out of the fo'lk'sle, and up +on top of it, to where the two gaunt levers of the +windlass made a blacker streak in the prevailing +darkness. Tumbling up against Jem, the darky, +he said, as well as his chattering teeth would allow, +"Specs yo gotter haul back chain longer me, boy;<span class="pagenum">[14]</span> +yars a hook fer yer,"—putting into my hand, as he +spoke, a long iron hook with a cross-handle. +Then, when at last the half-dead sailors began to +work the levers, and the great clumsy windlass +revolved, Jem and I hooked on to the massive links +of the cable, dragging it away from the barrel and +ranging it in long flakes beside the fore-hatch. +Every few fathoms, when the chain had worked its +way right across the barrel, and the turns were beginning +to jam one another up against the bitt, +Jem called out, "Fleet, oh!" Then a couple of +men descended from Mount Misery and hooked a +mighty iron claw, which was secured by a stout +chain to the bitt, on to the cable before the windlass. +This held the whole weight while the turns +of chain were loosed and laboriously lifted back to +the other end of the windlass-barrel again. When +thick with mud, so that each link was more like a +badly made raw brick than aught else, this primitive +performance was an uncouth job, and I could +imagine many pleasanter occupations.</p> + +<p>Two o'clock on a winter's morning, struggling +with mud-besmeared masses of iron, upon a footing +so greasy that standing was a feat, hungry and +sleepy withal, there was little romance about this +business. At last the mate bawled, "She's short, +sir!" and told the men to "'Vast heavin'." Out +of the gloom around the tug-boat emerged, +coming close alongside to receive her end of the +big rope by which she was to drag us out to sea. +No sooner was it fast than a strange voice aft—the +Channel pilot's—roared out, "Heave right up, +sir!" "Aye, aye, sir!" answered the mate.<span class="pagenum">[15]</span> +"Heave 'way, boys!" The clatter of the pawls +recommenced, continuing until the anchor was as +high as it would come. The subsequent "catting" +and "fishing" of the big "mud-hook" was +all a confused dream to me. All I knew was that +I had to sit down and pull at a rope which was +wound round a capstan by the steady tramp of +the crew, of whom one would occasionally growl at +me to mind my "surge," and I would feel a jerk at +my rope that shook me up dreadfully. It seemed +an interminable job; but, like everything else, +came to an end at last. The mate now walked aft, +ordering Jem and my small self to coil ropes up and +clear away generally. But he called out almost +immediately, "All hands lay aft to muster!" The +whole crowd slouched aft, grouping themselves at +the break of the poop, where a sort of elevated +deck began just before the mizzenmast. Each individual's +name was now read out and answered +to as announced. I found that there were six able +seamen, and the nigger-boy, Jem, "foremast +hands." The captain, mate, Chips, cook, and myself +formed the "afterguard."</p> + +<p>The "crowd" were now divided into watches, +the mate having first pick for the port watch, +and getting Jem over. This ceremony concluded, +the word was passed to "Pump ship." Several +grumbling comments were made on the "one-arm +sailor" pumps: a mean, clumsy contrivance, only +fit for the smallest vessels, requiring twice the exertion +for half the result obtainable from any of +the late patents. But the amazement and disgust +of the fellows can hardly be imagined when, after<span class="pagenum">[16]</span> +half an hour's vigorous "Clankety, clankety, +clankety, bang!"—three strokes and a pause as +the fashion is—there was no sign of a "suck." A +burly Yorkshireman, leaning up against the brake +to mop his brow, said, "Well, boys, if this —— old +scow ain't just sprung a leak, or bin left fur 'bout a +month thout pumpin', we're in for a —— fine +thing ov it." There was hardly any intelligible response, +they all seemed choking with rage and +curses. However, they sucked her out, and then +the big man asked Chips quietly whether that +"spell" was usual. Chips assured him that she +had not been baled out for a long time, and that +she would certainly "take up" in a day or two. +Oil on the troubled waters, but very risky, for he +had only just joined himself; nor did he know anything +of the old tub's previous record.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the cook, or "doctor," as his sea-sobriquet +is, had been busy making coffee. Unlike +any beverage called by that name ashore, even +the funny mixture sold at a halfpenny a cup at +street corners being quite luxurious in comparison +with it, yet it was a godsend—boiling hot, with +plenty of sugar in it—to those poor wretches with +the quenchless thirst of many day's indulgence in +the vilest liquor making their throats like furred old +drain-pipes. It calmed the rising storm, besides +doing them a vast amount of physical good. I +was at once busy supplying the wants of the officers, +to whom the refreshment was heartily welcome. +All the time, we were ploughing steadily +along behind the strenuous tug at a greater rate +than ever I saw the old barky go afterwards. (I<span class="pagenum">[17]</span> +have omitted to mention that we were bound for +Demerara with a general cargo, but our subsequent +destination was not settled yet.) All hands +were allowed a pretty long spell of rest, with the +exception of the man at the wheel, and one on the +look-out, because, until we were well out, sail +would have been more hindrance than help. The +wind increased as we got farther down, until, as we +passed out of the river, quite a sea was rising, to +which the old hooker began to bob and curtsey +like a country girl looking for a situation. The +relentless tug, however, tore her through the fast-rising +waves, making them break over the bows in +heavy spray. This was uncomfortable, but the +motion was far worse. All the horrors of sea-sickness +came suddenly upon me, and, like an ailing +animal, I crept into a corner on the main-hatch +under the long-boat, wishing for oblivion. Sea-sickness +is a theme for jesting, no doubt, but those +who have suffered from it much, know how little +room there is for laughter at such suffering—suffering +too for which, at the time, there seems no +hope of alleviation except the impossible one of +the motion ceasing.</p> + +<p>From that morning for several days I remained +in this miserable condition, not caring a pin's +point whether I lived or died, nor, with the sole +exception of the negro, Jem, did any one else on +board seem to give me one moment's thought. +Not that I would lightly accuse them of cruelty +or callous indifference to suffering; but, being all +fully occupied with their work, they had little leisure +to attend to a sea-sick urchin that was of small<span class="pagenum">[18]</span> +use at his best. However, poor black Jem never +forgot me, and, although he had nothing likely to +tempt my appetite, he always brought his scanty +meals to where I lay helpless under the long-boat, +trying in various quaint ways to coax me into a +returning interest in life. Fortunately for me, the +wind held in a quarter that enabled the ship to get +out of the Channel fairly soon, considering her +limitations, and, once across the dreaded stretch +of the Bay of Biscay, she speedily ran into fine +weather and smoother seas.</p> + +<p>When I did eventually find my sea-legs, and resumed +my duties in the cabin, I was received with +no good grace by my uncle or the doctor. The +latter had, indeed, special cause to feel himself +aggrieved, since he had borne the burden of +double duty during my illness: a hardship which +he was a long time in forgetting. But she was an +unhappy ship. The skipper held aloof from everybody, +hardly holding converse with the mate. He +even kept the ship's reckoning alone, not accepting +the mate's assistance in taking the sun for the +longitude in the morning, but doing it all himself +after a fashion of his own, so that the chief officer +was as ignorant of the vessel's true position as I +was. Then the food, both forrard and aft, was, in +addition to being strictly on the abominable official +scale which is a disgrace to a civilised country, +of so unspeakably vile a quality that it was +hardly fit to give to well-reared pigs. I have +often seen the men break up a couple of biscuits +into a pot of coffee for their breakfast, and, +after letting it stand a minute or two, skim off<span class="pagenum">[19]</span> +the accumulated scum of vermin from the top—maggots, +weevils, etc.—to the extent of a couple +of table-spoonfuls, before they could shovel the +mess into their craving stomachs. Enough, however, +for the present on the food-question, which, +being one of the prime factors in a sailor's life, +must continually be cropping up.</p> + +<p>The bleak, biting edge of the winter weather +was now gone, the steady north-easterly breeze +blew mild and kindly, while from an almost cloudless +heaven the great sun beamed benignantly—his +rays not yet so fierce as to cause any discomfort. +My sensations on first discovering that no land +was visible, that we seemed the solitary centre of +an immense blue circle, whose sharply defined circumference +was exactly joined to the vast azure +dome overhead, were those of utter loneliness and +terror. For I knew nothing of the ways of navigators +across this pathless plain, nor realized any +of the verities of the subject set forth in the few +books I had read. School learning I had none. +Had there been any one to whom I could have +gone for information, without fearing a brutal repulse, +I should doubtless have felt less miserable; +but, as it was, use alone gradually reconciled me to +the solemn silence of the illimitable desert around. +At rare intervals vessels appeared, tiny flecks of +white upon the mighty waste, which only served +to emphasize its immensity as the solitary light of +a taper does the darkness of some huge hall.</p> + +<p>But the sea itself was full of interest. Of +course I had little leisure; but what I had was +spent mostly in hanging spell-bound over the side,<span class="pagenum">[20]</span> +gazing with ever-growing wonder and delight +upon this marvellous world of abounding life. +This early acquired habit never left me, for, many +years afterwards, when second mate of one of our +finest passenger clippers, I enjoyed nothing so +much as to pass an hour of my watch below, seated +far out ahead of the ship by the martingale, gazing +down into the same beautiful sea.</p> + +<p>There were no books on board or reading matter +of any kind, except the necessary works on +navigation on the captain's shelf; so it was just as +well that I could take some interest in our surroundings, +if I was not to die mentally as most of +the sailors seemed to have done. As I got better +acquainted with them, even daring to pay stolen +visits to their darksome home in timorous defiance +of the stern orders of my uncle, I found to my +amazement, that they could tell me nothing of +what I wanted to know. Their kindness often +went the length of inventing fabulous replies to +my eager questions, but they seemed totally ignorant +of anything connected with the wonders of +the ocean.</p> + +<p>The days slipped rapidly away, until we entered +the Sargasso Sea, that strange vortex in the middle +of the Atlantic. It was on a Sunday morning, +when, according to custom, no work was a-doing, +except for the doctor and me. Even our duties +were less exacting than usual; so that I was able +to snatch many a short spell of gazing overside at +the constantly increasing masses of Gulf-weed that, +in all its delicate beauty of branch and bud, came +brushing past our sides. That afternoon the sea,<span class="pagenum">[21]</span> +as far as eye could reach, bore no bad resemblance +to a ripe hayfield, the weed covering the water in +every direction, with hardly a patch of blue amid +the prevailing yellow. Before the light trade-wind +we were hardly able to make any headway through +the investing vegetation, which overlaid the waves +so heavily that the surface was smooth as a millpond. +Through the bewildering mazes of that +aquatic forest roved an innumerable multitude of +fish of every shape, size, and hue, while the branches +themselves swarmed with crustacea, so that a draw-bucket +full of weed would have furnished quite a +large-sized aquarium with a sufficiently varied population. +I could have wished the day forty-eight +hours long; but I was the only one on board that +derived any pleasure from the snail-like progress we +made. The captain's vexation showed itself in +many ways, but mostly in inciting Chips to order +various quite uncalled-for jobs of pulling and hauling, +which provoked the watch so much that there +was a continual rumble of bad language and growling. +Even the twenty minutes' spell at the pumps, +which, from its regularity every two hours, now +passed almost unnoticed, was this afternoon the +signal for a great deal of outspoken and unfavourable +comment upon the characters of ship, owner, +and captain. The latter gentleman paced his +small domain with uncertain tread, as usual; but +the glitter in his eye, and the set of his heavily +bearded lips, showed how sorely he was tempted +to retaliate. But he prudently forebore, well +aware of his helplessness in case of an outbreak, +as well as being forced to admit full justification<span class="pagenum">[22]</span> +for the bitter remarks that were so freely indulged +in.</p> + +<p>Indeed, it was a serious question how long the +present peace would last. The rigging was dropping +to pieces; so that a man never knew, when he +went aloft, whether he would not come crashing +down by the run, from the parting of a rotten footrope +or a perished seizing. The sails were but +rags, worn almost to the thinness of muslin, every +flap threatening to strip them from the yards. +There was no material for repairs, no new rope, +canvas, or "seizing-stuff;" half a barrel of Stockholm +tar, and a few pieces of old "junk" for sennit +and spunyarn, representing all the boatswain's +stores on board. In fact, the absence of all those +necessaries, which are to be found on board the +most poverty-stricken of ships, for their bare preservation +in serviceable condition, was a never-failing +theme of discussion in the fo'lk'sle. And one +conclusion was invariably arrived at, albeit the +avenues of talk by which it was reached were as +tortuous and inconsequent as could well be. It +was the grim one that the <i>Arabella</i> was never intended +to return. This thought tinctured all the +men's ideas, embittered their lives, and made the +most ordinary everyday tasks seem a burden almost +too grievous to be borne.</p> + +<p>Had it not been for the overwhelming evidence +that the condition of the afterguard was almost +as miserable as their own, the abject humility of +the mate, in spite of his really good seamanship, +and the hail-fellow-well-met way in which Chips +confessed his utter ignorance of all sailorizing<span class="pagenum">[23]</span> +whatever, I very much doubt whether there would +not have been a mutiny before we were a fortnight +out. But as the villainous food and incessant +pumping were not aggravated by bullying and +"working up," matters jolted along without any +outbreak. Born as I was under an unlucky star, +my insignificance nearly overthrew the peace that +was so precariously kept. The deadly dulness of +the cabin was so stifling, that I felt as if I should +die there in the long, dreary evenings between +supper and bunk. Nothing to read, nobody to +speak to, nothing to do, and forbidden with +threats to go forrard among the men—that I +should transgress sooner or later was a certainty. +I took to creeping forrard oftener and more openly, +because no detection followed, until a sharp +rope's-ending from my uncle brought me up "with +a round turn," as the sailor says. By this time I +had become rather a favourite forrard, as well as +something of a toy, being very small for my age +and precocious as might be expected from my antecedents. +One man especially—Joe, the big +Yorkshireman—became strongly attached to me, +endeavouring to teach me thoroughly the rudiments +of sailorizing. This was at considerable +sacrifice of his own time, which, as he was an +ardent model-maker, was sufficient proof of his +liking for me.</p> + +<p>Now I was almost destitute of clothing, and +what little I did possess I was rapidly growing out +of. So the next day after my disciplinary castigation, +Joe walked aft in his watch below demanding +audience of the skipper. There was an unpleasant<span class="pagenum">[24]</span> +scowl on the old man's face, as he came on deck +to see the audacious man, that boded ill for the +applicant in any case. But when Joe boldly +tackled him for a bit of light canvas whereof he +might make me a "Cunarder" (a sort of habergeon) +and a pair of trousers, the skipper's face +grew black with rage. The insult, all the grosser +for its truth, was too obvious. When he found +his tongue, he burst into furious abuse of Joe for +daring to come aft on such an errand. Joe, being +no lamb, replied with interest, to the delight of his +fellows, who strolled aft as far as the mainmast to +hear the fun. This unseemly wrangle, so subversive +of all order or discipline, lasted for about +ten minutes, during which time I stood shivering +at the foot of the cabin ladder in dread of the +sequel. Finally the old man, unable to endure +any more, roared, "Get forrard or I'll shoot ye, ye +d—d ugly thief of a sea-lawyer! I'll have ye by +the heels yet, an' w'en I do ye'll think Jemmy +Smallback's gruppin' ye!" With this parting +shot he turned on his heel without waiting the retort +discourteous that promptly followed, descending +abruptly into the cabin with the ironical +cheers of the delighted crew ringing unmelodiously +in his ears.</p> + +<p>Under such provocation it was little wonder +that I paid for all. It must have been balm to my +relative's wounded pride to rope's-end me; at any +rate, he did so with a completeness that left nothing +to be desired. And, in order to avenge himself +fully, he closed our interview by kicking me +forrard, daring me, at the same time, ever to defile<span class="pagenum">[25]</span> +his cabin again with my mischief-making presence +under pain of neck-twisting.</p> + +<p>Of course I was received in the fo'lk'sle with +open arms. My reception went far to mollify my +sore back, for the seclusion of the cabin had grown +so hateful, that I would willingly have purchased +my freedom from it with several such coltings as I +had endured, not to speak of the honour of being +welcomed as a sort of martyr. Before long I +owned quite a respectable rig-out, made up, by the +dexterity of Joe, from all sorts of odds and ends +contributed by all hands at a tarpaulin muster. +Now each man vied with the other in teaching me +all they knew of their business, and I was such an +apt pupil that, in a short time, they were able to +boast that there was no knot or splice known to +seafarers, that I was not capable of making in sailor +fashion. Being no climbist, as might be expected +from an urchin born and bred in London +streets, getting used to the rigging was unpleasant +at first; but that was mastered in its turn, until +nothing remained unlearned but the helm. The +one aim, apparently, of every man forrard was to +so fit me for the work I might be called upon to +do, as that no excuse might be found for cruelty +of any sort. Whether I had the ability to meet +his demands or not, it did not seem prudent for +the old man to try his hand on me again in the +colting line, and I went gaily enough on my progressive +way.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[26]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">ARRIVAL AT DEMERARA.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">If</span> all sea-voyages were like the usual passage +to the West Indies, except for an occasional nasty +spell of weather in the English Channel, the sailor's +life would be a very easy one. Day succeeds +day under the same limpid blue sky fringed at the +horizon with a few tufts of woolly cumuli. Placid +as a sheltered lake, every wavelet melting into its +fellow like a caress, the sapphire sea greets the +gazer every morning like a glad smile of unfathomable +love. Beautiful beyond description is the +tender tropical sea, and hard indeed it is to realize +that this same delightsome expanse of inexpressible +loveliness can ever become the unappeasable +destroyer, before whose wrath even the deep-rooted +islands seem to shake.</p> + +<p>The nights rival the days. During the absence +of the moon the blue-black vault appears like a +robe of imperial purple, besprent with innumerable +diamonds of a lustre unknown to earth's feeble +gems. So brilliant is the radiance of the heavenly +host that even the unassisted eye can detect the +disc of Venus or Jupiter, while the twin streams +of the Galaxy literally glow with diffused light, +suggesting unutterable glories in their unthink<span class="pagenum">[27]</span>able +depths. And up from the horizon towards +the zenith, with clear yet indefinite outline, as of +the uplifted finger of God, rises the mysterious +conical flame-shadow of the Zodiacal Light. +Under such a sky the sea seems to emulate the +starry vault above, for in its darkling depths there +is a marvellous display of gleaming coruscations. +In the foam churned up by the vessel's bows they +sparkle and glitter incessantly, while in her wake, +where the liquid furrow still eddies and whirls from +the passing of the keel, there are a myriad dancing +lights of every size and degree of brilliancy. Like +a bevy of will-o'-the-wisps they sport and whirl, +glow and fade—never still, never alike, yet always +lovely.</p> + +<p>But when the full-orbed moon in a molten +glow of purest silver, before which the eye shrinks +almost with pain, traverses the purple concave as +a conquering queen escorted by her adoring subjects, +the night becomes a sweeter, softer day, in +which men may sit at ease reading or working as +fancy dictates. They dare not sleep in that white +glare, lest with distorted features and sightless +eyeballs, they vainly regret their careless disregard +of the pale beam's power. And as the stately satellite +settles slowly horizonwards, or ascends +majestically towards the zenith, how dazzling the +mile-wide pathway of shimmering radiance she +sheds along the face of the deep! The whalers, +with more poetic feeling than one would expect, +call it the "moon-glade," as though she must +needs spread a savannah of splendour for her solemn +progress over the waste of ocean.<span class="pagenum">[28]</span></p> + +<p>Here, perhaps, I should pause to disarm criticism, +if possible. Such thoughts as I have feebly +tried to express were undoubtedly mine in those +youthful days, in spite of squalid surroundings and +brutal upbringings. And if I could fairly reproduce +the multitude of fancies which throng my +memory as being the daily attendants of my boyish +daydreams, I should fear no unfavourable reception +of such a book as they would make.</p> + +<p>But to our voyage. Coming on deck one +morning soon after daylight, I was startled to notice +that the bright blue of the sea was gone. In +its place a turbid leaden flood without a sparkling +wavelet extended all around. I asked the doctor +what this strange change meant. "Gettin' near +land, I s'pose!" was his gruff reply. Nor did I +get any other explanation from the men, for none +of them knew that we were in fresh water, which, +rushing down to the sea from many mighty rivers, +overlaid the heavier salt flood for a great distance +from land. We did not sight the lightship <i>Demerara</i> +until next day at noon, although we were going +at fully five knots an hour. Behind it the low +palm-fringed coast lay like a sullen black cloud-bank +just appearing above the horizon, for in +truth it was almost level with the sea. Thicker +and dirtier grew the water, until, as we passed the +light-vessel, we seemed to be sailing in a sea of +mud. Between her and the shore we anchored for +the night and to await the coming of the pilot; +thus closing our outward passage, which might +have been as successfully performed in an open +boat, so steadily fine had we found the weather.<span class="pagenum">[29]</span></p> + +<p>What a strange sensation is that of first inhaling +the breeze from a foreign shore! I stood +on the forecastle that evening, hardly able to realize +that we had crossed the Atlantic, full of queer +feelings as the heavy sweet scent of the tropical +forest came floating languidly off from that dim, +dark line of land. There was a continual chorus +of insects, like a myriad crickets chirping, the +sharp, crisp notes curiously undertoned by the +deep bass of the sleepy line of surf upon the beach. +But this persistent music, by its unvarying monotony, +soon became inaudible, or acted as a lullaby +to which we all succumbed except the anchor-watch.</p> + +<p>Shortly after daylight a large canoe came +alongside, manned by negroes, bearing a pompous-looking +negro pilot in what he, no doubt, +took to be a very swell costume of faded serge, +surmounted by a huge straw hat. He mounted +the side by the man-ropes, with the air of a conqueror. +As he stepped over the rail with a ludicrous +assumption of importance, he said, patronizingly, +"Good mawnin', cap'n, hope you'se berry +well, sah?" "Mornin', pilot, same t' you," curtly +answered the old man; and, in almost the same +breath, "Dy'e think there's water 'nough on the +bar frus? We're drawin' fourteen feet aft." +"Neb' mine 'bout dat, cap'n; dat'll be all right. +I'se bettin' big money dis yah packet gwine beat +'nuff watah 'head ob her ter float in er linerbattle +ship. Gorbress my sole, ef I ebber see sich er front +eend on er craf' in my days. Wasser name? de +<i>Ark</i> doan' it? ha! ha! ha!"——and he threw back<span class="pagenum">[30]</span> +his head, laughing so capaciously that the broad, +glistening range of his teeth illuminated his coal-black +visage like a shutter flung suddenly open to +the sun. But the old man looked sour. Such +jeering at his command by a nigger was in some +sort a reflection on himself, and, thenceforward, +he held no more converse with our sable guide +than was necessary for the working of the ship.</p> + +<p>We were soon under way, though poor Jem +and myself got in a disgusting condition of mud +by the time the anchor was up. The fo'lk'sle, too, +from the fact of the cable running through it, was +like a neglected sewer, the blocks of foul-smelling +mud dropping continually from the links as they +came in through the hawsepipes. All sail was +loosed previously, but only the jib was set until +the anchor was out of the ground, when, humoured +by the helm, she turned kindly off the +wind, gathering way from its pressure on her +broad stern, while the "mudhook" was hove right +up. Then everything was set that would draw, +the wind being fair and strong; but, in spite of +the favourable conditions, our progress against +the turbulent ebb of the great river was so slow +that we were the best part of the day going the +few miles that lay between the roadstead and the +moorings.</p> + +<p>But at last we reached the group of vessels +which lay off the business part of the town. With +great skill our pilot tried a "flying moor," letting +our anchor go while we were forging ahead at a +good rate, then immediately clewing up all sail. +By the time our way was exhausted, about ninety<span class="pagenum">[31]</span> +fathoms had been paid out on the first anchor. +The second was then let go, its cable being veered +away as the first one was hove in, until an equal +amount was out on each; both were then hove in +till the moorings were taut, and the vessel swung +almost on a pivot. This is a ticklish evolution to +perform successfully in a crowded anchorage; but, +in our case, the result was entirely satisfactory, +saving much labour.</p> + +<p>The sails being furled and decks cleared up, +work ceased for the day. The curious appearance +of the wide verandahed houses embowered in +strange-looking trees, the assortment of vessels of +all rigs—from the smart Yankee schooner to the +stately iron coolie-ship from Calcutta—the muddy +rushing river, all claimed attention, but for one +attraction that outweighed them all. Waiting +alongside were two or three bumboats well stocked +with fruit, soft-tack, eggs, and such curios as a +sailor might be supposed to covet. I had seen +such fruit before, on the other side of plate-glass +windows in the West End of London, or in the +avenue at Covent Garden, but never in such generous +profusion as now. One boat especially was +laden to the gunwale with giant bunches of crimson +bananas, each fruit treble the size of ordinary ones; +baskets of golden mangoes, green limes, luscious-looking +oranges flecked with green, and clusters +of immature cocoa-nuts: the kind that only contain +sweet juice and delicate jelly within a soft +shell covered by husk as easy to cut as a turnip. +People accustomed to regular meals of decent +food cannot imagine how the sight of these dain<span class="pagenum">[32]</span>ties +affected our ill-used stomachs. Happily there +was little delay in choosing our purveyor, who +promptly hoisted great part of his stock on deck +for us to choose from. In virtue of being the only +person in the fo'lk'sle who could write, I was appointed +book-keeper, my remuneration being a +fair proportion of the good things without payment. +In reply to eager inquiries, the bumboatman +declared that he had no rum, saying that he +very well understood the unwritten law prohibiting +the supply of intoxicants by the bumboats, +and assuring the men that if he were detected +breaking it, he would forfeit his license as well as +all payment for goods he had supplied on credit.</p> + +<p>We were a happy company that evening. A +plentiful meal after such long abstinence put every +one in good spirits, although there was much +wishing for the cup that both cheers and inebriates. +In spite of this want, joviality was the order +of the night. Song and dance went merrily +round, at which the two darkey boat-boys, hired +by the skipper to take him backwards and forwards +to the shore, assisted with great glee. Their +fun was spontaneous and side-splitting, seeming +superior to all external influences—a well of continual +merriment bubbling up. Song, quip, and +practical joke followed one another incessantly, +with all the thoughtless <i>abandon</i> of happy children, +and mirthful enjoyment that might have thawed +an anchorite. All the pent-up laughter of the +passage burst out that evening, the first really +jolly one I had ever spent.</p> + +<p>At daylight all hands were busy rigging cargo<span class="pagenum">[33]</span>gear, +for our lading was long overdue. The discharging-gang +of negroes were early on board, +awaiting only our preparations to begin their +work. They were akin to the boat-boys in their +behaviour. Poor, even to the most utter raggedness +of the sacking most of them were covered +with—hunger-bitten, for all the provision brought +by the majority was a tiny loaf, and about two +ounces of sugar each—they were yet full to the +lips with sheer animal delight of living. Some, +the haughty aristocrats of the party, proudly displayed +fragments of salt fish or rusty-looking salt +pork, flanked by a green plantain, a coco, or chunk +of wooden-looking yam; but though these favoured +ones were evidently stuck up, their poorer +brethren showed no envy. Their pay was the +equivalent of one shilling per day, which, as the +price of food was high, except for a very few local +products, must have been all too little to keep hunger +at bay. Yet, when they got to work, how they +did go at it! They seemed to revel in the labour, +although the incessant singing they kept up ought +to have taken most of their breath. Streaming +with sweat, throwing their bodies about in sheer +wantonness of exuberant strength as they hoisted +the stuff out of the hold, they sometimes grew so +excited by the improvisations of the "chantey +man," who sat on the corner of the hatch solely +employed in leading the singing, that often, while +for a minute awaiting the next hoist, they would +fling themselves into fantastic contortions, keeping +time to the music. There was doubtless great +waste of energy; but there was no slackness of<span class="pagenum">[34]</span> +work or need of a driver. Here is just one specimen +of their songs; but no pen could do justice to +the vigour, the intonation and the <i>abandon</i> of the +delivery thereof.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_051.jpg" alt="051" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">Sis-ter Seusan, my Aunt Sal, Gwineter git a home bime-by-high! +<br /> +All gwineter lib down shin bone al, Gwineter git a home bime-by. +<br /> +Gwineter git a home bime-by-e-high, Gwineter git a home bime-by.</p> + +<p>The rushing, muddy stream literally swarmed +with ground-sharks, who sometimes came to the<span class="pagenum">[35]</span> +surface with a rush, looking terribly dangerous. +Yet the negroes took but little heed of them, +merely splashing a bit before diving if they had +occasion to go down and clear some vessel's moorings. +Sharks and cat-fish were the only fish to be +seen: neither of them available for eating. Strange +to say, the great heat troubled me very little. Perhaps +because, having for so long regarded cold as +one of the chief miseries of my life, the steady +searching warmth by night and day was grateful +to my puny body. At any rate, but that the +bloodthirsty mosquitoes and sandflies tormented +me cruelly, as they did all hands, the tropical climate +suited me very well. It may have been the +healthy season too, for, as far as I know, there was +no illness on board any of the ships. All our crew +were in robust health, and putting on flesh daily in +consequence of the liberal diet.</p> + +<p>I wanted much to go ashore, but dared not ask +leave; but, to my astonishment, on Sunday afternoon +the mate told me to get ready and come +ashore with him. Glad as I was of the chance to +see a little of this strange land, I felt small gratification +at the prospect of being his companion; +I would rather a thousand times have gone with +Joe. However, it being Hobson's choice as well +as dangerous to refuse, I rigged myself up as best +I could (a queer figure I made too), got into the +boat with my inviter, and away we went. Landing +at one of the "sterlings," as the wharves are +locally named, we strolled up into the main street +in silence. It was a wide avenue with quite a +river running down the centre, and doubtless on<span class="pagenum">[36]</span> +week-days would have been very lively. But at +this time it was deserted, except by a few stray +dogs and sleeping negroes. We trudged along +without a word, till suddenly Mr. Svensen hauled +up at a grog-shop, the bar of which was crowded +with sea-farers. Pressing through the throng to +the bar he called for some drink, and, meeting a +couple of his countrymen, entered at once into an +animated conversation with them in Norwegian. +For over an hour I waited impatiently, the air of +the place being stifling and the babel of tongues +deafening. At last, in desperation, I crept in behind +him and attracted his attention. He turned +sharply upon me, saying, "Vell, 'n vat <i>jou</i> vant?" +"Please, sir," I humbly replied, "may I go an' +have a look round?" "Oh, co to hell ef jou lige, +I ton'd care. Only jou ked bag to der poad pefoar +sigs o'clog, or I be tamt ef I tond trown jou +coin' off—see!" "Thank you, sir," I said gratefully, +disappearing promptly before he had time to +change his mind.</p> + +<p>What an afternoon I had, to be sure. I wandered +right out of the town through tangled paths +crowded on either side by the loveliest flowers +growing wild I had ever dreamed of. I was like a +boy in a dream now, except for that haunting reality +"sigs o'clog." And, to crown my pleasures, +when I had strayed as far as I dared, I came suddenly +upon a pretty villa in an open glade, the +house itself being embowered in the most gorgeous +blossoms. I went up to the back of the +premises to beg a drink of water, which an amiable +negress gave me with a beaming smile, squeezing<span class="pagenum">[37]</span> +into it a fresh-fallen lime with a large spoonful of +white sugar. While I drank, a dear little white +boy about five years old came running round the +corner. When he saw me he stood for a moment +as if petrified with astonishment; then, recovering +his wits, darted back again. A kindly-faced man +in white, with a big brown beard, then appeared, +leading the little one. After a few inquiries he invited +me into the house to tea, treating me with +so much kindness that, between his attentions and +those of his beautiful, weary-looking wife, I was +several times upon the point of bursting into tears. +She plied me with questions, soon getting all my +sorrowful little life-story out of me; and more +than once I saw her furtively wipe away a tear. +The little son sat on my knee, great friends with +me at once; and what with the good fare, the +pleasant talk, and the comfort of it all, I forgot +everything else in the world for a time. Suddenly +I caught sight of the clock. It was a quarter to +six. I must have looked terrified, for my host, +Mr. Mackenzie, asked me with much solicitude +whether I felt suddenly ill. As soon as he heard +the cause of my alarm he left the house, returning +to the front in a minute or two with a beautiful +mule and a smart trap. I took a hurried leave of +my kind hostess and her child, promising to come +again if I could; and presently found myself bowling +along a level road at a great rate behind the +swift hybrid, who seemed to glide rather than trot. +Arriving at the boat, nearly half an hour late, we +found the mate not yet there, one of the boat-boys +volunteering the information that he was well<span class="pagenum">[38]</span> +drunk up at the rum-mill. "That being so," said +Mr. Mackenzie, "I will see you on board." So we +shoved off for the ship. During our short transit +I told my new friend how matters stood between +my uncle and myself, begging him not to inadvertently +make matters worse for me. He promised +to be discreet. We reached the ship and climbed +on board. I fled forrard on the instant, while he +interviewed the old man. Whatever passed between +them in their few minutes' talk, I don't +know; I heard no more of the affair. But I was +never again allowed on shore while I belonged to +the <i>Arabella</i>. The mate came on board quietly +and turned in, no word reaching us forrard of any +trouble about his little flutter.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[39]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">THE MUTINY AND AFTER.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> must be confessed that during our stay in +Demerara the fellows had a pretty good time of it. +Since there were no stores on board of rope, paint, +or canvas, the work was mainly confined to washing +decks or scrubbing paintwork, a good deal of +time also being wasted making sennit, <i>i.e.</i> plaiting +rope-yarns for chafing-gear. What sailorizing +was undertaken was in the nature of kill-time, and +well understood as such by the men. Nevertheless +they were by no means pleased with their easy +times, for they had not yet been able to get any +drink; their displeasure being heightened by the +knowledge that the mate had been ashore and got +a skinful. Any one versed in the ways of seamen +should have known that mischief was brewing, +even though no definite plan of action had yet been +discussed. It only wanted a bottle or two of rum +to fire the magazine.</p> + +<p>At last liberty day drew nigh. The cargo was +all out, the ballast all in, no cargo being obtainable +for the crazy old <i>Arabella</i> in Demerara. I do +not now even know whether it be a legal enactment +that seamen shall be allowed twenty-four +hours' freedom in foreign ports, with some portion<span class="pagenum">[40]</span> +of the wages due to them to spend, but if not, the +custom is so well established that it has all the +force of law. The men were like schoolboys at +breaking-up time, half crazy with delight at the +thought of the joys (?) that awaited them ashore. +They received but a few shillings each, much to +their disgust, because there was as yet little wages +due to them, and no amount of begging or bullying +could avail to get them any more. The mate's +watch went first, among them my stout friend Joe, +whom I tearfully begged not to get drunk and +kick up a row, for my sake. Looking back I wonder +at my temerity, for it must have been like +getting between a tiger and a shin-bone; but he +took it very meekly, and actually promised that he +would come aboard sober. During their absence +the ship was strangely quiet, very little work of +any kind was done, and the waiting watch were as +sulky as bears. Next morning about eight o'clock +the revellers returned, all except Joe in a bedraggled, +maudlin condition that told eloquently of +their enjoyment. Had it not been for Joe they +would have all been in the lock-up, or "chokey" +as sailors invariably call it; but he had worked like +a Trojan to keep them together and out of harm +as much as possible. He had quite a triumphant +air of unwonted virtue as I whispered my delight +at seeing him again, and <i>sober</i>.</p> + +<p>Then the starboard watch, with the doctor, +took their innings, with strict injunctions not to +be late the next morning, as we were going to unmoor +and drop down stream a little in readiness +for sailing. The day passed like the previous one,<span class="pagenum">[41]</span> +black Jem doing the doctor's work as well as he +could with such assistance as I could give. The +next morning at daylight preparations were made +for unmooring, and at eight o'clock a pilot came +on board, a smart-looking, sharp-featured Yankee +who looked around the old hooker with undisguised +contempt. Nine, ten o'clock, and no sign +of the liberty men. The old man went ashore on +business, leaving full instructions with the mate +about unmooring, which he expected to be carried +on in his absence. He had barely been gone half +an hour when the starboard watch returned; but +it was evident at once that they had their own +views upon the unmooring question, which by no +means coincided with the skipper's. They were +all half-drunk and quarrelsome, especially the doctor, +who strutted about more like a bloodthirsty +pirate than an elderly spoiler of ships' provisions. +Unfortunately, too, each man had brought with +him a plentiful supply of rum, which they at once +began to share with the port watch, all except Joe, +who would have none of it. They even invited +Mr. Svensen and Chips to partake, meeting their +courteous refusal with quite gratuitous displays of +bad language and ill-temper.</p> + +<p>At last the mate, mindful of the wigging he +might certainly expect on the skipper's return if +no work was afoot, ventured to give the order, +"Man the windlass!" the pilot taking up his post +on the forecastle. For all answer there came a +howl of derisive laughter from the den, where all +hands, with one exception, were busy "freshening +the nip." Mr. Svensen wisely took no notice;<span class="pagenum">[42]</span> +but, in a cajoling tone, said, "Now den poys, gum +along, mage a sdart; ids kedding lade, ju dond +vant ter ked me indo a row, do jer?" Forth +strode the truculent doctor, an uncanny figure, all +asway with drunken rage. "Looky hear, yew +square-headed son of a gun, yew ain't agoin' ter +horder me about any more, so I tell yer! I ain't +a goin' ter do another stroke abord the rotten +barge-built old bathin' masheen, so there!" (I suppress +the every-other-word profanity throughout). +During the delivery of this speech he was wildly +gesticulating and spluttering right up against +the mate's breast, shaking his withered fists in the +big man's face, and otherwise behaving like a very +maniac. The rest of them gathered around, adding +to the clamour; but the burden of all was the +same, "No more work, not another hand's-turn +aboard this" (collection of all the abusive sea-epithets +known) "old lobster-pot." Joe, meanwhile, +was calmly doing some trifling job aft, by +the break of the poop on the starboard side. To +him sauntered an Irishman, hitherto one of his +best friends, now laboriously polite and anxious to +know whether he intended being a sneak, a white-livered +et-cetera and so forth. For all reply, Joe +turned his back on him. I was cleaning knives +on the same side forrard by the galley door, but +not making much progress on account of so many +distracting episodes taking place. The babel of +abuse around the unfortunate mate was going +strong all the time. A thrill of terror went +through me as I saw the Irishman suddenly lift his +hand and strike Joe on the back of the neck. He<span class="pagenum">[43]</span> +turned like a flash, shooting his right fist into +Patsy's face, with a crash that laid him out, +sounding horrible to me. Without a word Joe +turned again to resume his work. Patsy gathered +himself slowly up and staggered forward, +bleeding profusely, and muttering disjointed blasphemy +as he came. He passed me, going into the +fo'lk'sle; but my attention was suddenly attracted +by a yell of laughter from the other side of the +deck. Peeping round the galley, I saw with +amazement that the drunken devils had actually +triced the poor mate up spread-eagle fashion in +the main rigging, and were jeering him to their +hearts' content. Then they made a rush for the +cabin. Chips was nowhere to be seen. Presently +they returned, bringing the ensign, which they +proceeded to hoist in the rigging, Union down, a +sea signal of the most urgent importance, denoting +anything dreadful from fire to mutiny.</p> + +<p>A step beside me made me turn, startled, to see +who it was, and I just caught sight of the grim +blood-besmeared visage of Patsy, who was stowing +the long cabin carving-knife in the waistband +of his pants. While I stared at him, breathlessly +wondering what his little game might be, he broke +suddenly into a run aft to where Joe still pursued +his peaceful task, all undisturbed by the riot +around. "Look out, Joe," I screamed, "he's got +the carving-knife!" The warning came only just +in time; for as Joe turned sharply he met the raging +Patsy at close quarters, aiming a savage stab +at him. Naturally lifting his arm, he received the +descending blade through the fleshy fore-part of<span class="pagenum">[44]</span> +it; but, with the other, he caught the Irishman +by the throat, and jammed him back against the +rail. Kicking the knife, which had dropped from +the wound, far forward as he sprang, he plucked +an iron belaying pin from its socket, and brought +it down with a sickening thud upon Patsy's already +battered face. Again he fell, this time to +remain until dragged forward, a limp, disfigured +lump.</p> + +<p>By this time the inverted ensign had told its +tale ashore, and a large canoe well-manned with +negro policemen, under a white sergeant, was coming +off to us at a spanking pace. This sight drew +all the mutineers to the side, whence they could +watch her approach, which they hailed with the +liveliest expressions of joy. Chips now put in an +appearance, looking very sheepish, and, assisted by +Joe, released the mate from his undignified suspension +in the rigging. He tottered aft, looking very +unwell, and muttering bitter reproaches on the +carpenter for having abandoned him to such a fate. +The police-canoe bumped against the side, her +stalwart crew clambering on board like cats. +While the officer hastened aft to hear the news +from the mate, his myrmidons were amazed to find +themselves hailed with delight by the excited crew, +who fraternized with them as if they had come to +convoy them to a picnic. The mate's tale being +soon told, the sergeant of police gave orders to his +men to arrest the mutineers, and, with joyful outcry, +all hands hurried forward to prepare for their +departure.</p> + +<p>During the preparations, the pilot, the mate,<span class="pagenum">[45]</span> +and the police-officer foregathered on the poop +to indulge in a smoke, and discuss the ways of seamen +in general. But though their palaver lasted +a long time, there was no sign from forrard. At +last, his patience exhausted, the sergeant strode +forward to the fo'lk'sle, demanding, with many +objurgations, the reason of this delay. To his +rage and dismay he found that the supply of rum +had been so plentiful, and had circulated so freely, +that policemen and sailors were involved in one +common debauch. Indeed it was hard to say +which was the most drunken of the two gangs. +Uproarious was the din, nearly every man shouting +some fragment of song at the pitch of his +lungs, or laughing insanely at the gorgeous fun of +the whole affair. Back came the sergeant, almost +speechless with anger and apprehension, for this +no doubt meant dire disgrace to him. He was +made worse, if anything, by the unstinted laughter +with which the mate and pilot received the news. +Small blame to them, the thing was so ludicrous.</p> + +<p>Up went the police-flag again—to the main +truck this time. In addition to this the sergeant +hoisted a small weft at the peak, explaining sulkily +that this was an urgent private signal for reinforcements. +He added, "An' all <i>I</i> hope is that +the infernal scoundrels 'll fall out an' kill one another +before my boss comes, or else I'm booked +for a reduction in grade that'll dock me of a quarter +of pay—none too much as it is." Before many +minutes had passed a large launch was seen approaching, +rowed by fourteen men, who, unlike +the first lot, were all white. With them came our<span class="pagenum">[46]</span> +old man, whose face was a study. I just caught +one glimpse of it, and its fury scared me so that I +dared not go near him. There was now no more +fooling; in double quick time all the roysterers, +policemen as well as sailors, were collected from +the fo'lk'sle, handcuffs put on them, their effects +flung into the launch, and themselves bundled +after with scant ceremony. So rapid was the +work that in less than ten minutes they were all on +their way ashore, making the air resound with +their discordant yells.</p> + +<p>A painful quiet ensued. Joe and I, sole representatives +of the foremast hands, leisurely cleared +up the decks, after which he busied himself preparing +a meal which should do duty for dinner and +supper. The captain went ashore again, much to +my relief, for while he was on board I couldn't get +quit of the idea that in some way or other he +would bring me in responsible for his disappointment, +and take his consolation out of my poor +little carcass. I had been so used to this vicarious +sort of payment of old, that the idea was a fixed +one with me whenever there was a row. In fact, I +often feel the old sensation now. But to-day he +seemed unable to give vent to his feelings, so +nothing disturbed the calm of the afternoon. Joe +informed me that he had gone ashore to ship a +fresh crew, and that we should certainly sail in the +morning, he having heard the old man tell the +pilot as much when he took the dinner aft.</p> + +<p>Sure enough, just before sunset the skipper returned, +bringing with him a fresh crowd in place +of the old hands, who had each, we were told, re<span class="pagenum">[47]</span>ceived +summary sentence of two months' hard labour. +Quick work, truly. The new crew were a +mixed lot. There was a Newfoundland Irishman +named Flynn, a fat-faced blubber-bodied fellow, +who was for ever eating tobacco; a stalwart fiery-headed +ex-man-o'-war's man who could only be +called Ginger; a long, melancholy-looking Englishman, +who signed as George Harris; a Eurasian +of gentlemanly appearance, but most foul and +filthy behaviour; a delicate, pretty-faced Liverpool +Irishman, with a fair silky beard, for cook; a +broad-shouldered Greek, who had not a word of +English; and, lastly, a precious piece of ornament +in the shape of a Chinaman, pigtail and all, as if he +had just come out of Foochow, whom the captain +had shipped as steward for nothing a month. +Gloomy Jem, the unfortunate negro youth, of +course, remained of the old crew. In some misty +fashion he went on his melancholy way, the butt of +everybody but myself, his only relaxation an occasional +incoherent chatter with me in some dark +corner, when there was no work afoot.</p> + +<p>Next morning at daybreak we unmoored, and +proceeded down the muddy river, without hitch of +any kind. The new crew worked well, glad +enough, no doubt, to leave such miserable quarters +as they had lately been enduring. You Sing, the +Celestial, was a great acquisition. He was made +to understand at once, that whatever work was to +be done, he must take a hand in it, and he certainly +toiled like a beaver. Beautiful weather still favoured +us, and with an occasional glimpse of what +looked to my exuberant fancy like fairyland rising<span class="pagenum">[48]</span> +out of the sparkling blue sea, we crept steadily +westwards into the great gulf of Mexico. In spite +of the miserable food and swinish forecastle, the +fresh crew worked well and peaceably. What +growling they did was indulged in out of hearing, +and, after late experiences, I hardly knew the old +ship. Without a single incident worth recording, +we rolled along until we sighted the Mexican +coast, which, as the position of our first calling-place +was somewhat vague, the captain proposed +to skirt until he came to it. The weather now became +less settled, squalls of considerable violence +being frequent, making a great deal of sail-handling +necessary. One night, when we were suddenly +called upon to shorten sail in a deluge of +rain, it happened that the long Englishman, +George Harris, and Ginger, the quondam man-o'-war's +man, found themselves together furling the +main to'-gallant sail. Now, Ginger, though a big +fellow, was, as usual with his class, of very little +use at furling sail under merchant-ship conditions. +Where one man is employed in the merchantman, +six or seven crowd in on board of <i>Andrew</i>; and +the "bluejacket" is consequently handicapped +when he finds himself thus lonely. The sail was +stiff with wet, the wind was high, and George, in +trying to make up for Ginger's deficiency, ruptured +himself badly. He got down from aloft +somehow, and took to his bunk, a very sick man. +The treatment he received only aggravated his +mishap, while he grew rapidly weaker from his inability +to eat the muck, which even in his case was +unchanged. Although never very friendly with<span class="pagenum">[49]</span> +me, I was filled with pity for him, and actually so +far forgot my dread of the terrible "old man," as +to creep below and steal a few cabin biscuits, which +were less coarse and whiter than ours. It was +comparatively easy to evade the officers, and I +chuckled greatly over my smartness, being richly +rewarded by the gratitude of the invalid, who +made quite a hearty meal of my plunder soaked +with some sugar. But I reckoned without You +Sing. That slit-eyed pagan in some unholy fashion +found me out, and at once betrayed me to the +skipper, of whom he stood in such awe, that he +was ready to jump overboard at a nod from him. +I was called aft, questioned, and found guilty. +There and then, with a bight of the gaff-topsail halliards, +he gave me such a dressing down as I have +never forgotten, You Sing standing by with a +face like a door-knocker for expressionless calm. +Even amid my sharpest pangs I rejoice to think I +didn't howl. Perhaps I gained little by that. At +last the skipper flung me from him, saying grimly, +"Now ye can go an' thank George Harris for +that." And when, twenty years after, I saw that +stern old man, reduced to earning a precarious living +as a ship-keeper, fall from a ship's side in the +Millwall Dock, injuring himself so frightfully that +death would have been refreshment, I could not +help thinking of the grist which is ground by the +Mills of the Gods. Joe, my faithful ally, was furious +when I went forward quivering with pain. He +was for vengeance, first on the old man, then on +the placid pig who had betrayed me; but I begged +so hard that he wouldn't make matters worse by<span class="pagenum">[50]</span> +interfering that at last he yielded. But he never +settled down again satisfactorily.</p> + +<p>Just a week afterwards we came to a slight indentation +in the coast, where a Norwegian barque +lay at anchor. From her we got the information +that the place was called Tupilco, upon which we +anchored, it being our port of call for orders. The +anchor was no sooner down than Harris crawled +aft and implored the captain to take him ashore so +that he might get some medical aid. Desire of +life made the poor fellow quite eloquent, but he +might as well have appealed to a bronze joss. +When, exhausted, he paused for breath, the old +man said, with bitter emphasis, "Ef I'd ben a +loafin' on my shipmets s'long's <i>you</i> hev', I'd take 'n +heave me useless carcass overboard, ye wuthless +sojer. Git forrard 'n die. It's 'bout the bes' +thing you ken do." George crept forrard again +without a word.</p> + +<p>We lay at this forsaken-looking spot for four +days, holding no communication with the shore +except twice, when a launch came off, manned by +a truculent-looking crew of "dagoes," <i>i. e.</i> Greeks, +Italians, Spaniards, and half-bred Mexicans. +Soon after their second visit we weighed again, +having received instructions to commence loading +at Sant' Ana, some distance along the same +coast. We had an easy run thither, with a fair +wind all the way, and were pleasantly surprised +to find that, although an open roadstead like Tupilco, +there was quite a fleet of ships at anchor +there. They were of all sizes and rigs, from +rakish-looking Yankee schooners to huge full<span class="pagenum">[51]</span>rigged +ships, and of several nationalities—British, +American, and Norwegian predominating. There +was a heavy landward swell on when we passed +through them to our anchorage, and it was anything +but cheering to see how they rolled and tumbled +about in far more unpleasant fashion than as +though they had been under way. In fact, some +of the fore and afters had actually got staysails set, +with the sheets hauled flat aft, so as to counteract +in some measure the dangerous wallowing they +were carrying on. I watched one Baltimore +schooner, with tremendously taunt spars, roll until +she scooped up the sea on either side with her bulwarks, +the decks being all in a lather with the +foaming seas tearing across them, and I couldn't +help thinking what a heavenly time those Yanks +must have been having down below, for there were +none visible on deck.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[52]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">THE LAND OF LIBERTY.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> came to an anchor near the middle of the +roadstead in seamanlike fashion, every sail being +furled before the anchor was dropped, and the old +tub brought-to as if going into dock. Then, as it +was understood that our cargo was ready for us, +preparations were immediately made for its reception. +A stout spar was rigged across the forecastle, +protruding twenty-five feet on the starboard +side, with a big block lashed to its end +through which ran a five-inch rope. A derrick +was rigged over the main-hatch with a double +chain purchase attached, and a powerful winch +bolted to the deck, round which the chain revolved. +Numbers of iron spikes (dogs), with +rings in them, were fitted with tails of rope about +three feet long, and lengths of hawser cut for +"mother-ropes." The rafts of mahogany and +cedar logs are made by driving a tailed "dog" +firmly into the side of each log a foot or so from +the end. As each one is thus spiked it is secured +by a "rolling-hitch" of the tail to the "mother-rope" +(<i>cabo madre</i> of the Spaniards), until as many +are collected as required. This operation is always +performed in the river just inside the bar,<span class="pagenum">[53]</span> +where the logs are sorted after their long drift +from the interior. Then the raftsmen, who are +equipped with capacious boats pulling six oars, +and carrying about three hundred fathoms of grass +rope, secure one end of their tow-line to the +mother-rope, and pull away seaward in the direction +of the ship, the steersman casting out line +as they go. Arriving at the end of their tether +they anchor, and all hands turn-to with a will to +haul the raft up to the boat. This operation is +repeated as often as is necessary to cover the three +or four miles between ship and shore, until at last +the long line of tumbling logs are brought alongside +their destined vessel, and secured to the big +spar on the forecastle. At whatever time they +arrive all hands must turn out to receive them, +and on board the American ships the uproar used +to be fearful; oaths, yells, and showers of belaying +pins rattling against the bulwarks, bearing eloquent +testimony to the persuasive methods of discipline +in vogue on board of them. The stevedores, +or stowers of the timber, arrived on board +shortly after we anchored; like the rest of the +population, they were a mixed crowd of Latins +and Greeks, but all speaking Spanish. Owing to +their presence we fared much better than we +should otherwise have done, for they were fed by +the ship, and by no means to be offered any such +carrion as usually fell to our lot. Their pay was +high, five dollars a day; but they certainly worked +well, besides being very skilful. With our first +raft there was trouble. Flynn, the "blue-nose" +Irishman, was sent upon the uncertain row of logs<span class="pagenum">[54]</span> +alongside to sling them; but after several narrow +escapes from drowning or getting crushed between +the rolling ponderous masses, some of them +over five tons in weight, he clambered on deck +again, and flatly refused to risk his bones any +longer. Nor, in spite of the skipper's fury, could +any other man be persuaded to attempt so dangerous +a task. Finally, the old man turned to one +of the Greeks of the stevedore gang, and ordered +him to act as slingsman. "Oah yez, capane," +said Antonio, "sposa you giva me eight dolla +day." After a little more language the old man +said, "All right, 'Tonio, I'll give you eight dollars. +An' I'll stop it out of your pay, you skulking sojer +you" (to Flynn). Which was mirthful, seeing +that eight dollars represented a fortnight's pay +for our shipmate.</p> + +<p>However, Antonio proved a most expert raftsman, +being almost amphibious and smart as any +eel. But the work was exceedingly severe. Lifting +such great masses of timber tried the old sticks +terribly, and when she rolled suddenly to windward, +tearing the log out of water with a jerk, you +almost expected her to fall apart. When, at last, +the log showed above the rail, if she started her +antics, all hands near stood by for a run, for the +log would suddenly slue inboard, and come across +the deck like a gigantic battering ram. The +whole process was a series of hairbreadth escapes. +Down in the hold, where the stevedores toiled +with tackles, rousing the logs about, there were +many casualties; but these dagoes never seemed +to care. For every hurt they had one remedy:<span class="pagenum">[55]</span> +plenty of "caña," a fiery white spirit, fresh from +the still. Poured into a gash, or rubbed on a +bruise, with half a pint to drink, this vitriolic stuff +seemed to meet every emergency.</p> + +<p>The enormous rate of pay prevailing here during +the height of the season, had the inevitable +effect of causing frequent desertions; so that as +much as three hundred dollars was freely offered +for the run to New York or Europe for seamen. +Consequently a vigilant watch was kept by the officers +of ships, lest any of the crew should take +French leave, although getting ashore was difficult. +We, however, had a very large long-boat, +for which there was no room on deck, and, contrary +to the usual practice it was put overboard, +and kept astern at the end of a small hawser. The +temptation was too much for my friend Joe, who, +accompanied by the Eurasian, slipped over the +bows one dark night, and swam aft to the unwieldly +ark, unheard by the officer on watch. +Poor fellow! he couldn't keep awake night and +day. At daybreak, when the skipper came on +deck, and looked over the taffrail, always his first +move, the idle rope hung down disconsolately—the +long-boat was gone! Seizing his glass he +mounted to the cross-trees, and scanned the horizon, +discovering the derelict far out at sea. The +gig was lowered and manned by Flynn and Jem, +the skipper himself taking the tiller, and off they +went in pursuit. It was nearly noon when they +returned, towing the runaway, and half dead with +thirst and fatigue. Then only did the skipper +learn that two of his best men were gone. In his<span class="pagenum">[56]</span> +hurry he had not stayed to inquire, and now his +rage knew no bounds. Judge, then, how he felt +when he discovered, by the aid of his glass, that +the deserters were no further away than our nearest +neighbour, an American brig that lay less than +half a mile away. Anger overcame his prudence, +and he actually went alongside the Yank, intending +to go on board and claim his men. He was +received with contumely, the American skipper refusing +to allow him over the rail. His state of +mind on his return must have been pitiable; but +he sought his cabin without a word, and remained +there all the rest of the day.</p> + +<p>In some way the news spread round the fleet, +and that evening we were boarded by the captain +of the <i>Panuca</i>, a Liverpool barque, who came to +condole and relate his woeful experiences. He +said that his men had refused duty altogether, +upon which he was advised to take them ashore to +the "Commandant," who would deal with them +in summary fashion. Accordingly he took them, +finding the <i>soi-disant</i> official to be a stalwart Greek, +who held the position by virtue of his election by +his fellow rascals, for law there was none. El +Señor Commandante, however, told him to leave +his men with him, and he would soon bring them +to their bearings. Very reluctantly he followed +this advice, since he had no choice, and returned +on board, cursing his stupidity for ever taking +them there. To his joyful surprise they returned +on board, next morning, as meek in their demeanour +as if they had, indeed, been taught a lesson. +But two nights afterwards there was a desperate<span class="pagenum">[57]</span> +hubbub raised, during which the rascals looted the +cabin, and, getting into the whale-boat hanging at +the davits, went ashore with their plunder. They +had strictly followed the instructions given them +by the commandant, who made them a handsome +present in return for the fine boat they brought +him. When the half-frantic captain arrived on +shore, and learned the truth, he was so enraged +that he actually tried to take his boat off the beach +where she lay, narrowly escaping being shot for his +pains. This tale, poured into our skipper's sympathetic +ears, somewhat reconciled him to his loss, +since he still retained his boat.</p> + +<p>But one disaster succeeded another. A curious +malady of the feet attacked every one of the +crew. It caused the legs and feet to swell enormously, +and culminated in a suppurating wound +horribly painful and slow to heal. Then a deadly +encounter took place between the cook and You +Sing, which was only settled by sending the Chinaman +ashore, since the two seemed bent upon murdering +one another. Worst of all, when the ship +was half-full, the timber ceased to arrive. Ship +after ship sailed away, until there were only three +of us left; and the season of the "Northers" being +close upon us, when those destructive gales +blow right home all along the coast, every one began +to look very glum. The unfortunate invalid, +George Harris, after lingering longer than any +one could have believed possible, was set free +from his misery at last, to the manifest relief of his +shipmates, who were heartily tired of his taking so +long to die. Sounds horrible, doesn't it? But it<span class="pagenum">[58]</span> +is the naked truth. Under such circumstances as +ours were, the better part of humanity generally +disappears, or only shines in individuals who are +often, almost always, powerless to help.</p> + +<p>Miserable as the time had been, it was not all +lost upon me. As far as the hardship went it was +no worse, if as bad, as I had endured in the London +streets; and here, at any rate, it was always +warm. I had learned to chatter Spanish fluently, +although much of it I would gladly unlearn if it +were possible, for I have always noticed that, in +picking up a language colloquially, one learns +easiest and remembers longest the vilenesses. +And how vile the Latin tongues can be, few Englishmen +can realize. I did not grow much, not +being well-enough nourished; but I was wiry, +hard as nails, and almost as brown as an Indian, +being half naked from want of clothes. At last, +one morning, my uncle sent for me. Although +unconscious of any offence I was terribly frightened, +but went, shaking with dread, to meet him. +To my utter amazement he spoke kindly, saying +that the ship was so old, and the season so late, +that he feared there was great danger of her never +reaching home. Therefore he had decided to +send me on board the barque <i>Discoverer</i>, commanded +by a friend of his, in which, as she was a +splendid vessel, I should be far safer. She was to +sail the next day, so I must go on board that night. +I only said, "Thank you, sir," but volumes could +not have expressed my gratitude. To leave this +awful den, to be once more treated to a kind word +occasionally—for, since Joe was gone and Jem had<span class="pagenum">[59]</span> +been driven ashore (which I have forgotten to +mention), I had no friends at all on board; the +prospect was too delightful for contemplation.</p> + +<p>My wardrobe being on my back I was spared +the labour of packing up. Farewells there were +none to say, although, being naturally a tenderhearted +little chap, I should have been glad of a +parting God-speed. But no one said anything to +me as I bundled into the boat and was rowed +alongside my new home. As soon as I climbed +on board I was met with a very chorus of welcome. +The warmth of my reception amazed me, accustomed +as I had been for so long to the miserable +state of affairs on board my old ship. But I soon +overcame a strong temptation to cry for joy, and, +steadily choking down the lump in my throat, set +about taking stock of my new vessel. To my inexperience +she seemed a most noble ship. Everything +was on a much finer scale than anything I +had yet seen in my brief travels. She had been +built for the purpose of Arctic exploration, and +consequently presented a somewhat clumsy appearance +outside from the doubling of the bow +planks and stern bends, and the diagonal oaken +sheathing with which she was protected. Inboard, +though, she was roomy, clear, and comfortable +as could be imagined, while her rigging and +spars were all of the very best, and in tip-top condition.</p> + +<p>Quarters were assigned to me in the comfortable +cabin of the steward, whose helper I was supposed +to be, although, from the first, I had the +free run of the ship fore and aft. Next morning<span class="pagenum">[60]</span> +we weighed with a gentle favouring breeze, homeward +bound. But I soon discovered that there +was one drawback to all this comfort—the captain +was a confirmed drunkard. While the process of +getting under weigh was going on, he was mooning +about the deck with a fishy eye and an aimless +amble, getting in everybody's way, and causing +much confusion by giving ridiculous orders. Had +he confined himself to that all would have been +well, for the men humoured him good-temperedly, +and took no notice of his rubbish. But when they +had "catted" the anchor, they were obliged to +leave it hanging while they got some sail on her, +the fall of the cat-tackle being stretched across the +deck and belayed to the opposite rail, as there was +no fo'lk'sle-head, and consequently no capstan. +All hands being aft, the skipper maundered forrard, +to find his further progress stopped by this +rope. Muttering unintelligibly, he cast it off the +pin to which it was belayed. The result staggered +even himself, for there was a rush and a roar, a perfect +blaze of sparks, a cloud of dust, and, with a +jerk that almost threw everybody flat, the last link +of one hundred and twenty fathoms of cable +brought the ship up all standing. All hands +had flown forrard at the first bang, but they +were powerless to do anything except pray that +the cable might part. It was too good for that, +bearing the terrible strain to which it was subjected +of bringing a ship up, in twenty fathoms of +water, that was going nearly four knots an hour.</p> + +<p>The mate got the old man aft into his cabin +while the fellows clewed up the canvas again, and<span class="pagenum">[61]</span> +then issued the order to man the windlass once +more. But this the men flatly refused to do, alleging +that after their forenoon's work, it was unreasonable +to expect such a thing. The mate was +powerless to insist, so nothing further was done +till next day but give the sails the loosest kind of +a furl. At daybreak next morning the heavy task +of getting the anchor was begun, the skipper keeping +out of sight. There was a great deal of growling +and bad language; but the mate managed to +get hold of a demijohn of the old man's whisky. +This he dispensed with no niggard hand, and so +the peace was kept; but it was late in the day when +she was again fairly under way for home.</p> + +<p>After that, everything went on smoothly +enough. Although, as usual, the crew were of +several nationalities, they all pulled together very +well, nor did they take the advantage they might +have done of the utter absence of any shadow of +discipline on board. The whole working of the +ship devolved upon the mate, for the skipper was +always more or less drunk, and the second mate +was helpless, having had his right foot smashed by +a log of mahogany in loading. What work was +necessary during the daytime was done cheerfully +enough, and a general air of peace and contentment +pervaded the ship. For one thing the food +was really good and plentiful, and none of the +men were of that blackguardly kind that glory in +taking every advantage of any weakness aft. Of +course the watch-keeping at night was bad. A +big London boy, who was much disliked for his +lazy, dirty habits, was made to keep the look-out<span class="pagenum">[62]</span> +always in his watch—a duty which he usually performed +with his head between his knees. The +rest of the men slept the night through, seldom +knowing whose watch on deck it was; so that if +sail required trimming all hands generally turned +out to it after a good deal of inviting. The captain +was supposed to keep the second mate's +watch, but he set a shining example to his crew, by +sleeping it out wherever he happened to drop +when he came on deck.</p> + +<p>I was very happy. Never since the time my +troubles began, that is, at about eight years old, +had I been treated so well. Being very small, and +fairly knowing, besides having a rather sweet +treble voice, I was made a sort of plaything—an +universal pet. And in the dog-watches, when +seated upon the main hatch surrounded by the +crew I warbled the songs I knew, while not another +sound disturbed the balmy evening but the +murmur of the caressing waters alongside and the +gentle rustle of a half-drawing sail overhead, I felt +as if my halcyon days had dawned at last. That +fortnight is one of the pleasantest recollections of +my life. The weather was delightfully fine, and +by day the ship was like a huge aviary, a multitude +of brilliant-hued little birds being continually +about her, although we were out of sight of land. +They were of many kinds, but all so tame that they +freely came and went through cabin and forecastle, +hunting for the cockroaches with which she was +infested. On the upper yards a small colony of +kestrels kept vigilant watch, descending like a +flash upon any unwary birdling that dared to ven<span class="pagenum">[63]</span>ture +far into the open. The men made many nocturnal +excursions aloft after the "pirates," as they +called them, giving them short shrift when they +caught them. So the days drowsed on quietly +and peacefully, seeming, to my youthful ignorance, +as nearly perfection as they could possibly +be. Not but what I felt an occasional twinge of +sorrow at the continual drunkenness of the captain. +Mixing with the men forrard freely as I +did, their rough but half-pitying comments upon +him and his behaviour could not fail to impress +me, although I often wondered how it was +that, being so well aware of the danger they ran +by reason of such general neglect, they were not +themselves more watchful, instead of taking such +advantage as they did of the captain's fault, to +sleep all night.</p> + +<p>At last, on the fifteenth day from leaving port, +on a clear starlit night with a gentle, fair wind +blowing, and all hands, including the captain—whose +watch it was—asleep, the vessel ran upon a +coral reef and became a total wreck. Having told +the story in another place, I cannot enlarge upon +the circumstances attendant upon her loss here; it +must suffice to say that, after many perils, all +hands escaped safely to land upon the "cay" or +sandy islet which crowned the highest point of the +reef. A fairly large quantity of food and water +was saved; so that we ran no risk of privation, +even had the islet failed to furnish us with fish, +fowl, and eggs in plenty as it did. One circumstance +I must record in passing as being well +worthy of notice. As soon as it was evident that<span class="pagenum">[64]</span> +the vessel was hopelessly lost, the seamen forrard, +though perfectly well behaved, insisted that every +drop of intoxicating liquor should be thrown overboard, +and, in order that it should be done thoroughly, +themselves carried it out. As the giant +breakers destroyed the upper works of the ship, +much useful wreckage came ashore, and one calm +day a visit was paid to her, which was rewarded by +the salvage of several sails and a quantity of cordage. +With these, comfortable tents were rigged, +and I have no doubt that, had it been necessary, +we could have put in several months on that barren +patch of sand quite happily. Huge turtle +came ashore to deposit their eggs, and were easily +caught. Sea-fowl of many kinds, principally boobies +and frigate-birds, swarmed in thousands, +whose eggs, especially those of the frigate-birds, +were delicious eating, although, never being +pressed by hunger, we left their rank, fishy flesh +severely alone. Fish of course abounded, while +the crevices of the rocks concealed great numbers +of clams and oysters, and at night the lighting of +our beacon fire attracted quite a host of crabs from +the sea, who fell victims in great numbers to their +curiosity. Hardships there were none, and I would +far rather have lived there for six months than +for one week on board the old <i>Arabella</i>.</p> + +<p>Ten days passed gaily away, during which the +sail-maker and carpenter had made a fine seaworthy +craft of the pinnace in which most of us +reached the shore. Fitted with new sails and rigging +and half-decked, she was fit for a much longer +voyage than was necessary to reach the mainland +<span class="pagenum">[65]</span>of Campèche, the nearest town of which, Sisal, +was barely a hundred miles distant. But one +morning as the look-out man was ascending the +rocky promontory, where a flag-staff was erected +to hoist the signal of distress we always kept flying +by day, he saw a handsome barque lying-to only +about two or three miles away. The French ensign +was flying at her peak, and a boat had left her +side which was being rapidly pulled shorewards. +They soon landed, and by expressive signs the +officer in charge gave us to understand that he was +prepared to take us all on board, but that we must +make haste, as the vicinity was much too dangerous +to linger in longer than was absolutely necessary. +Not one word of each other's language did +we understand, yet we found no difficulty in getting +at one another's meaning sufficiently near for +all practical purposes. To my amazement, however, +the skipper, the mate, and four others, refused +to avail themselves of the opportunity to +escape. They said they did not want to go to Havana, +where the barque would land us, preferring +to sail in the pinnace to Sisal and take their chance +there. When the French officer realized this, he +looked as if he thought the small party refusing to +come with him were mad. But after an outburst +of volubility, quite wasted upon our misunderstanding, +he shrugged his shoulders and retreated +towards his boat, followed by all who were ready +to go with him. His men had made good use of +their time by getting a goodly quantity of birds +and eggs collected, and now disposed themselves, +with a perfect uproar of chattering, in as small a<span class="pagenum">[66]</span> +compass as they could, while our fellows took the +oars and pulled away for the barque. Looking +back, I saw the little group of our late shipmates +standing watching us from the beach: a sight so +pathetic that I could not help bursting into tears, +quite forgetting that it was entirely in accordance +with their own desires that they were thus abandoned.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_64" id="illo_64"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_082.jpg" alt="082" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">We could have put in several months +on that barren patch of sand +quite happily.</p> + +<p>We soon reached the ship, swarmed on board, +and swung the boat up to the davits in a twinkling, +while the officer who had brought us—the chief +mate—held an animated colloquy with the captain +on the poop. From the expressive gestures used, +we had no doubt but that they were discussing the +incomprehensible resolve of our captain and his +followers. They terminated their conversation +by mutual shoulder-shruggings, as who should +say, "But what would you, my friend? they are +English, whose ways are past finding out." +Nothing could be more cordial than our reception +by all hands. The big long-boat was cleared out +for our sleeping-place, as the barque's fo'lk'sle accommodation +was too limited to admit any more +than at present occupied it; and a bountiful meal +of <i>fazhole blanc</i>, a delicious <i>purée</i> of haricot beans, +good biscuit, and <i>vin ordinaire</i> was served out +to us.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[67]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">TO HAVANA AND AFTER.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> seems to be an appropriate place for noticing +how, at less cost, the Frenchmen fared so +much better than in any sailing ship I have ever +been in. The Board of Trade scale of provisions +for the Mercantile Marine must strike every landsman +as being a most absurd compilation. On +four days of the week each man is entitled to one +and a half pounds of salt beef, including bone, accompanied +by half a pound of flour, except on +Saturdays, when half a pint of rice <i>may</i> be given, +or nothing. The other three days each bring one +and a quarter pounds of salt pork and one-third of +a pint of split peas. Every day there is an allowance +<i>per capita</i> of one pound of bread (biscuit), +an eighth of an ounce of tea, half an ounce of coffee, +and three quarts of water; and each week +twelve ounces of sugar and half a pint of vinegar is +allowed per man.</p> + +<p>What scope is there here for any variety or +skill in cookery? Even supposing that the beef +and pork were in any way comparable with the +same articles on shore—which they cannot be in +the nature of things—such a diet must soon become +infernally monotonous. But the very best<span class="pagenum">[68]</span> +ship's beef and pork is not nice; the second best +is nasty; and what will pass an inspector, is often +utterly unfit for men to live upon entirely for any +length of time, while it would be considered loathsome +ashore. And what can be done with half a +pound of flour? Lacking <i>anything</i> else, except a +few hops, obviously the best thing to do is to make +bread, which is a little more palatable than the +flinty outrage on the name of food that is called +ship's biscuit. What is usually done is to make +"duff." This is really boiled bread, with the addition +of some skimmed grease from the coppers +in which the meat is boiled. As an act of grace, +but by no means of necessity, a pannikin (pint) of +molasses is doled out for all hands on duff days, +but the crew are not allowed to forget that they +have no claim to this dainty by Act of Parliament.</p> + +<p>On pork days pea-soup is made, or "yellow +broth," as sailors call it. But pease and water +with a flavouring of pork (not too much lest the +soup become uneatable from salt) needs a stretch +of courtesy to be called soup. A little, very little, +addition of vegetables would make it palatable, +but "'tis not i' the bond." And even if so, do +you think, reader, you would feel contented with fat +pork and pea-soup for dinner three times a week +for four months on end? For breakfast and supper +(tea) there is biscuit and beef, or biscuit and +pork, washed down with the result of the modicum +of coffee or tea. And that is all. For very +shame's sake, a minority of shipowners do provide +a few extras: such as butter, an occasional mess +of tinned meat, and a few preserved potatoes and<span class="pagenum">[69]</span> +pickles. But these are the exception and not the +rule. Moreover, whenever these additional helps +are given, the men are always reminded that they +have no right to them, that no owner need give +anything more than the bare pound and pint of +the Board of Trade scale.</p> + +<p>Contrast this with our living on board the Bordeaux +barque <i>Potosi</i>. In the first place the bread, +which was in large puffy cakes, became, under the +slightest moisture, as easy to eat and as palatable +as baker's bread. This alone was an enormous +boon. Breakfast, which, like all other meals, was +taken by all hands at once, was hardly a meal in +our sense of the term. It was only a cup of coffee +(exceedingly good), some bread, and about a +gill of cognac. Luncheon at noon consisted of +half a pound of meat, free of bone, and some preparation +of vegetables, bread, and half a pint of +wine. Dinner at four p. m. was a grand affair. +The changes were rung upon haricot beans, lentils, +vermicelli, macaroni, and such legumes cooked +with meat and flavoured so that the smell was intensely +appetizing. Bread, and half pint of wine. +And there was abundance, but no waste. Yet I +am persuaded that the cost was much less than +that of our authorized scale of provisions, about +which it is difficult to speak with patience. It +will, I think, be admitted that where men are shut +up to a life of such monotony as the seaman's calling +must necessarily be, their food ought at least +to have some consideration. The meal-hours +form almost the only breaks in the day's sameness, +and if the food be poor in quality and without va<span class="pagenum">[70]</span>riety, +it is bound to engender bad feeling and a +hatred of those of whose fault it is the outcome. +This by way of apology for such a lengthy dwelling +upon the subject, if any be needed, though I +have always felt that its importance is great +enough to merit much more attention than it commonly +receives.</p> + +<p>We had a very pleasant passage. The barque +was a wonderfully handy vessel, and her equipment +was so good that it excited the wondering +admiration of all our men. The discipline was +quite naval in its character, and the day's duties +went on with the regularity of clockwork. Of +course we could not understand the language, and +were, in consequence, unable to know whether +there was the same amount of grumbling commentary +forward, upon the sayings and doings of the +officers, as is almost universal in British ships, with +the exception of "Blue-noses" (Canadian vessels). +But it was admitted by all of us that the +crew seemed well content and heartily willing, +and that she was indeed a model ship. My scanty +knowledge of Spanish came in useful, for the captain +spoke that language about as well as I did. +On his discovering this fact he sent for me, and, +by dint of patience, succeeded in learning from me +such facts as he wished to know, rewarding me +with many a tit-bit from his table, as well as some +very useful gifts of clothing, which, as I was almost +naked, were most acceptable.</p> + +<p>Arriving at Havana, we were handed over to +the British consul, leaving the friendly Frenchmen +with much regret and three hearty cheers, which<span class="pagenum">[71]</span> +they returned with interest <i>à la Française</i>. We +were no sooner clear of her than they began to +get under way again, and, by the time we were +on the wharf, she was once more heading for +home. By the orders of the consul we were +marched up to a "fonda," or eating house, facing +the Plaza de Armas, which we understood was +to be our home during our stay. A plentiful meal +was set before us, but we did not appreciate it +much, every dish being saturated with the flavour +of garlic. But as two bottles of wine were +apportioned to each individual, the meal was a +merry one, all hands declaring that bread and wine +would suit them down to the ground. A bundle +of cigars were distributed by a benevolent-looking +old stranger, who introduced himself as the shipping-master, +and spoke excellent American, being, +as he informed us, a native of New Orleans.</p> + +<p>After a smoke, we were conducted to a large +paved room at the back of the premises, which was +simply furnished with a couple of huge tables and +sundry benches, and had in one corner an unprotected +well. Here we were told we must spread +such bedding as we had, and make ourselves as +comfortable as we could, until our proper dormitory +was vacated by the recruiting party that at +present occupied it. The said party were by no +means an inviting crowd. They swarmed about +the big chamber we were in, looking fit for any +villainy, and ostentatiously displaying their vicious-looking +bowie-knives. All our fellows had +been deprived of their sheath-knives upon first +coming ashore, under the plea that the carrying<span class="pagenum">[72]</span> +of weapons was unlawful, though we were the only +unarmed people I saw in the city during my stay. +However, we had no choice of quarters, so we proceeded +to spread such ragged blankets as we possessed +upon the flagstones against one of the bare +walls, and in due time ranged ourselves thereon. +Owing, I suppose, to the unusual quantity of wine +they had drunk, all our men were soon asleep, and +when some one took away the smoky kerosene +lamp, the place was pitchy dark, except where the +silver bars of moonlight, streaming through the +unglazed holes in the walls, divided the blackness +into rigid sections. I could not sleep. The novelty +of the situation, the strange smells, and an indefinable +fear of that truculent crowd of armed +men, kept all my senses at highest tension. There +was no door, and, through the opening in the wall, +dark shapes of men came and went softly on +Heaven knows what errands. I had reached a +condition of mind when I felt as if I must scream +to relieve my pent-up feelings, when I saw some +figures bending over my sleeping shipmates as if +searching for something. By this time my eyes +had become able to distinguish objects in the surrounding +gloom, and I found that there were at +least twenty men in the place.</p> + +<p>Terribly frightened, and hardly knowing what +I did, I roused the carpenter, by whose side I lay, +and whispered hoarsely in his ear what I had seen. +The word was passed along, and in a few minutes +we were all afoot and straggling out into the +moonlight-flooded courtyard. There we stood +like a flock of startled sheep, irresolute what to do.<span class="pagenum">[73]</span> +But some of the knife-carrying gentry emerged +after us, and began whetting their weapons on the +blocks of stone laying about—portions of a ruined +wall. This significant hint decided us, and we +passed out into the silent street, feeling to the +full that we were strangers in a strange land. +Lights of any kind there were none, and the intense +brilliance of the moon cast shadows as solid +as does the electric glare. A few yards of uncertain +wandering, and we were lost. There +seemed to be no one about, and yet I could have +sworn I saw dark shapes gliding along in the inky +shadows. And presently I fell headlong over +something in the road, my outstretched hands +striking with a splash into a pool of mud. A cold +thrill ran along my spine when I found I was lying +across a corpse, and that the sticky paste on my +hands was red. We quickened our steps after +that, keeping in the middle of the streets, but as +ignorant of our direction, or our purpose, as if we +had been a herd of swine devoid of instinct. At +last, from sheer weariness, we sat down upon the +steps of some large building, and drooped our +heads. As if he had risen from the ground, a +"vigilante" (watchman) appeared, bearing a +short spear, from the upper third of which dangled +a lantern. "Vamos, perros!" he growled, prodding +those nearest to him into instant wakefulness. +No one needed a translation, or a second bidding +to "Begone, dogs!" So we tramped wearily +along, our bare feet bruised by the littering stones. +As often as we dropped for a brief rest, one of those +ubiquitous sereños moved us on again to the same<span class="pagenum">[74]</span> +monotonous epithet of contempt. I often think +what a queer-looking procession we must have +been. My only garments were a flannel singlet +and a pair of canvas trousers, so stiff that they +creaked woodenly as I trotted along. Cap or +boots I had none. The rest were in much the +same plight, though none were quite so naked as +me. Going along a narrow lane, whereof I read +the title, "Aguacallè," on a building at the corner, +I slipped off the hummocky sidewalk into a slough +of soft slush up to my armpits, and was dragged +out by my next friend with a new covering of such +evil odour that I had to keep a respectful distance +from my companions thenceforth. Finally we +emerged upon what seemed to be a wide common +or piece of waste ground. Here at last we were +permitted to squat unmolested. Fear of scorpions, +centipedes, and snakes, kept me from sleep; +but all my companions lay sound in strange attitudes, +under the full glare of the moon, while I +watched, wondering if the night would ever end. +At the first glimmer of dawn I aroused my companions, +who were all reeking with dew, and we +made for the streets again, going as straight back +to our lodgings as if we knew the road. When we +entered, the warriors had all gone. No one belonging +to the establishment was astir, so we cast +ourselves down on our rags and slept like stones +until roused at eight o'clock by the servants. +Until eleven we dozed on the benches, or in whatever +corners we could find, when a plentiful breakfast +revived us in spite of the garlic.</p> + +<p>After our meal the vice-consul paid us a visit.<span class="pagenum">[75]</span> +He listened gravely to our complaints of the accommodation +we had found. Then he invited us +to accompany him to the consul's office. On our +arrival all hands were shown into a large, bare +room, while I was called upstairs to undergo a +searching cross-examination by the consul as to +what clothes the men had saved, the incidents of +the shipwreck, etc. I suppose he thought that so +young a boy would be more likely to tell a true +tale than those artful rogues of sailors, as he +seemed to regard them. He was not at all kind +or sympathetic: that was no part of his business, +I suppose; but as he was writing an order upon a +slop-seller for some clothing for us, a handsome +young lieutenant from an English man-o'-war +came in. His eyes fastened upon me at once, and, +after a hurried question or two of the consul, he +came to me and spoke pitifully, giving me two dollars +out of his pocket as a solid token of his sympathy. +Then the consul had all hands in and harangued +them, telling them to be sure and keep +sober (which, as they were penniless, was rather uncalled-for +advice), and by no means to stray away +from the immediate vicinity of the shipping-office. +They would be sure to get a ship in a day or two, +he said. Dismissing us with a curt good-day, he +retired, while we followed the vice-consul to the +clothier's. Here the men received each a rig-out +of cheap garments, but I was treated much better; +why, I do not know. After all the men had been +served and had returned to our lodging, I was furnished +with quite a nice suit of clothes, with good +underclothing, patent leather shoes, and broad-<span class="pagenum">[76]</span>brimmed +Panama hat. A brilliant red silk sash +was given me by the shopkeeper as a present, and, +thus glorified, I felt quite transformed. With +many cautions as to my behaviour, the official +bade me good-day, and I was left to my own devices. +And then began one of the strangest experiences +of my life. Wherever I went, people +looked kindly at me, and spoke to me as if they +were interested in me. I entered into shop after +shop to spend some of my money, but found it +impossible, for the shopkeepers insisted upon giving +me what I asked for without payment, and +often added to my store of cash besides. When at +last I returned to the fonda, I was loaded with +cigars, fruit, pastry, and all sorts of odds-and-ends, +so that my shipmates were loud in their welcomes. +By nightfall we were all in a very contented condition +of mind, and, when the landlord politely requested +me to inform my friends that our sleeping +apartment was prepared, we felt that our comfort +was complete. But our joy had a tremendous setback +when we were shown the said bedroom. +It was a long lean-to shed erected against an ancient +wall of rubble that had never known contact +with a whitewash brush. The floor was of dried +mud. Along the centre of its whole length ran +an open ditch, which carried in a sluggish stream +all the sewage of the house. On either side of this +foul <i>cloaca</i> were ranged "charpoys," a sort of exaggerated +camp-stool, which constituted the entire +furnishing of this primitive bed-chamber. It +was well ventilated, although there were no windows, +for daylight was visible in many places<span class="pagenum">[77]</span> +through gaps in the boarding of the outer wall and +roof. Many and vigorous were the comments +passed upon the filthy hole, but there was no suggestion +of raising any complaint, as all felt that it +would be useless, and, at any rate, the place was +our own, and we could barricade the door. So +spreading our blankets upon the charpoys, we +turned in, and were soon oblivious of all our surroundings.</p> + +<p>Next day, in the course of my wanderings, I +entered the fine billiard room of the Hotel St. +Isabel and chummed up with the marker. I was +well acquainted with the game, having learned +how to mark in one of the strange by-paths of my +nomad life before going to sea. And this knowledge +now came in usefully, for the marker was a +one-armed man who was often sorely bothered by +the management of his three tables, especially +when the players were lively American and English +skippers. I was made heartily welcome, being +helpful, in a double sense, from my knowledge +of Spanish as well as my acquaintance with the +game. From that time forward the "Fonda del +buen gusto" saw little of me, and that little at uncertain +intervals. I had a comfortable chamber, +the best fare the hotel afforded, while as for money, +the customers supplied me so liberally that my +pockets were always full. As I could not spend +it, most of it found its way to my shipmates, for +I never came across one without handing some of +it over. The idea of saving any never dawned +upon me, and, when all my old shipmates were +gone afloat again, I could always manage to find<span class="pagenum">[78]</span> +some English-speaking mariners to whom I was +welcome company for a ramble round town.</p> + +<p>The time flew by on golden wings. All my +former miseries were forgotten in my present luxurious +life, and I blossomed into that hateful +thing, an impudent boy uncontrolled by anybody, +and possessing all the swagger and assurance of a +man. Such as I was, however, I attracted the attention +of a gentleman who held a most important +post under government as a civil engineer. He +was a fairly constant visitor at the hotel when in +Havana, and our acquaintance ripened into a +strong desire on his part to adopt me, and save me +from the ruin he could see awaited me. His only +son, a young man of three-and-twenty, was his assistant, +the two being more like brothers than parent +and child. Having made up his mind, he fitted +me out with an elegant suit of clothes made to +his liking, and one day took me in his carriage to +see the consul and arrange matters. To his intense +surprise and disgust the consul flatly refused +to sanction the affair, telling him that he was responsible +for my return to England, and that, as +I had admitted that my father was alive, any inquiry +after me, which resulted in the discovery that +I had been allowed to remain in Cuba without my +parent's consent, would make matters very unpleasant +for him. All attempts on Mr. D.'s part +to shake this decision were fruitless. The consul +refused to discuss the matter further, and closed +the conversation by warning me that I was liable +to severe punishment for absenting myself so long +from the home (?) where he had placed me. What<span class="pagenum">[79]</span> +I felt I cannot describe. Mr. D., with a deeply dejected +face, bade me good-bye, his duties calling +him into the interior next day. He gave me +twenty-five dollars as a parting present, and advised +me to get a ship as soon as possible for home. +It may readily be imagined that I had no hankering +after the sea again. The pleasant, aimless life +I had been leading, the inordinate petting and luxury +I had grown accustomed to, had made me look +upon ship-life with unutterable loathing, and I +secretly determined that if I could avoid it I would +never go to sea any more.</p> + +<p>About this time a terrible epidemic of yellow +fever set in. So great was its virulence, that even +the never-ending warfare between the royalists +and insurgents slowed down, and instead of a ragged +regiment of wastrels being despatched into +the mountains about twice a week, the authorities +were hard put to it to collect recruits at all. The +great bell of the cathedral tolled unceasingly. All +night long the rumble of the waggons over the +uneven causeways sounded like subdued thunder, +as they passed from house to house collecting the +corpses of the victims. The harbour was crowded +with vessels denuded of their crews, and from +every masthead flew the hateful yellow flag. It +was heart-breaking to see and hear the agony of +the sailors being taken ashore to hospital. They +knew full well that there was hardly a glimmer of +hope that they would return. The Chinese, who +acted as nurses, were destitute of any feeling of humanity, +and the doctors were worked to death. +The nuns, who gave their lives nobly, could do<span class="pagenum">[80]</span> +little but minister such ghostly comfort as they +knew how; but the net result of the hospital treatment +was, with hardly an exception, death. Yet, +in spite of the scourge, and general paralysis of +trade in consequence, life, as far as I could see, +went on much the same as ever. The inhabitants +seemed determined to put a brave air on, whatever +their inner feelings might be, and I declare that I +saw very little to frighten me. One can get used +to anything, especially when one has not learned +to think. Several weeks passed away, and I was +still free, though not quite so flush of money, for +the customers at the hotel were necessarily fewer.</p> + +<p>One day I was taking a stroll down by the deserted +wharves, when I noticed a peculiar glow in +the sky. It came from the heart of a gigantic +cloud that draped half the heavens, and seemed as +if it hid hell behind it. Fascinated by the sight, +though my heart thumped furiously, I waited on +the wharf and watched its development. The +cloud spread until the whole dome was covered in +by it, and the fierce glare took a strange greenish +tinge. All around the edge of the darkness ran +an incessant tangle of vari-coloured lightnings, +and a continual rumble of thunder seemed to make +the earth vibrate. Suddenly the storm burst. +Jamming myself into a corner between some posts, +whence I felt sure no wind could dislodge me, I +waited and watched. For the first few minutes I +thought I should have died of fright. Torrents of +water, like the fall of a sea, were lashed into foam as +they fell, and all torn into gleaming fragments by +innumerable flashes flying in every conceivable di<span class="pagenum">[81]</span>rection. +An overpowering smell like burning sulphur +pervaded all. As for the wind, its force must +have been frightful, judging from its effect upon +the shipping and houses; but where I stood only a +very strong gale could be felt, such as no seaman +would think extraordinary. This lasted about an +hour (but I cannot say much for time), and then +the rain ceased. What a scene of horror the bay +presented! Vessels of all kinds drifted aimlessly +about, wrecking each other, and covering the boiling +mäelstrom of the harbour with their <i>débris</i>. +Overhead a louder roar occasionally made me look +up to catch sight of a flying roof like a cloud fragment +fleeting through the murky air. A large +Yankee schooner was torn from her anchors, and +lifted on to a ledge beneath the Moro Castle, +which jutted out of the perpendicular cliff about +a hundred feet above high-water mark. There +she remained upright, with her bottom stove in +like Columbus's egg. Of all the vessels in the +harbour, the only ones that survived without serious +damage were the warships, which, with topmasts +housed and cables veered out to the clinch, +were all steaming full speed ahead, and, even then, +hardly easing the tremendous strain on the latter.</p> + +<p>Taking advantage of a lull I emerged from my +corner, drenched to the skin, of course, and so +cramped from my long crookedness, that at first I +could hardly feel my feet. As hurriedly as I could +I made my way towards the hotel, finding the +roadways almost blocked with ruins. The hotel +had escaped much damage, and I was received +with open arms, soon forgetting all my fears in a<span class="pagenum">[82]</span> +good meal and cheerful talk. In spite of the +havoc it had made, the general feeling was one of +thankfulness, it being taken for granted that the +hurricane would be found to have swept away the +far more dreaded "Yellow Jack." And this was +literally true, for not a single fresh case was reported +from that day forward. Business revived +with a bound, for there was much work to do +everywhere, shipwrights especially commanding +almost any wages they liked to ask. About a +week after the hurricane, I was standing watching +the transport of a huge steam-launch over an isthmus +to the dockyard, when I felt a hand on my +shoulder. Turning sharply, I saw the yellow visage +of the vice-consul, who was accompanied by +a man in uniform, to whom he gave me in charge. +I was fairly caught, and without further delay, in +spite of my vehement protestations, I was put into +a boat and taken on board a large barque, the +<i>Sea Gem</i> of St. Andrews, N. S. The captain, a +kindly-looking old gentleman, heard my impudent +remarks in amused silence, until he thought I had +gone far enough. Then he stopped me with a +quiet, "That'll do, my lad, you don't want a +rope's-ending, I'm sure." I had not lost all +sense, so I pocketed my grievance and crept sullenly +forward.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[83]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">OFF TO SEA AGAIN.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> <i>Sea Gem</i> had suffered greatly from the +hurricane, but, by dint of strenuous effort on the +part of her agents, was now fairly seaworthy again. +The ravages of pestilence, however, had left her +almost unmanned, the only survivors being the +second mate, the carpenter, and a couple of American +negro youths. The new captain, I learned +from the carpenter—who had taken me under his +protection—had been retired for some years, occupying +a fairly well-paid post ashore in Havana. +But tempted by a lucrative offer from the agents, +and greatly longing to return home again, he had +accepted the post of master of the <i>Sea Gem.</i> He +had succeeded in collecting another crew to take +the vessel home; but they were, indeed, a motley +crowd. Three Austrians, a Montenegrin, a +Swede, a Frenchman and two more negroes made +up the complement forward, all of whom spoke a +barbarous dialect of Spanish among themselves, +although the Austrians also conversed indifferently +in some Slav tongue as well as in Italian. +There was as yet no chief mate, but another +American negro had been secured for cook and +steward.<span class="pagenum">[84]</span></p> + +<p>No cargo being procurable, we were to proceed +in ballast to Mobile for cotton, and thence +home. I had not yet lost hope of being able to +escape before sailing; and the carpenter, who +seemed to be greatly amused by my company, +rather encouraged me in the idea. Strangely +enough, nobody seemed to trouble about me, and +I foolishly sulked about all day, doing nothing but +brood over the possibility of getting away. At +last a chance presented itself. All the members of +the new crew were taken ashore to the consul's +office to sign articles, and I, of course, went along. +I had still a good deal of money, and, as soon as +I had signed, and been ordered by the captain to +go down to the boat and await his coming, I demurely +obeyed, and bolted in a contrary direction +as soon as I had turned the street corner. I was +free. True, I had an uneasy feeling that at any +moment I might be arrested for desertion; but I +refused to entertain it, and hurried up town to the +Hotel St. Isabel. Here I got a shock. My old +friend the billiard marker was gone, and the new +man did not look upon me at all favourably. My +other acquaintances in the hotel, too, appeared +anxious to avoid me, as if they had been warned +not to give me harbourage there. So I wandered +forth disconsolately, feeling as if the place was +quite strange to me. In the course of a long +ramble I fell in with a young American seaman +who was outward bound, i. e. hard up, but as full +of fun as if he had just been paid off. We had a +great time together for a couple of days, getting +as far away as Matanzas, and using up my stock of<span class="pagenum">[85]</span> +dollars at an alarming rate. The third day we were +a bit weary of skylarking about, and decided to return +to his boarding-house and have a good +night's rest. When we arrived there it was past +closing time, and the place was all dark and silent. +It was a big corner building, springing straight +from the roadway, with flat walls, up to a height of +about fourteen feet, where a balcony ran right +round the building. To rouse the landlord was +more than we dared; so, after much scheming, we +managed to find a light cart under a shed, which +we dragged from its place and up-ended under the +balcony. My chum, who was very tall, climbed +up the shafts and scaled the balcony, then lowered +his long sash to me. I was speedily by his side, +and together we sought and found his room, +which opened on to the balcony and was luckily +unoccupied. Feeling secure, our love of fun overcame +weariness, and after a boisterous pillow-fight +we strolled out on to the balcony again. Just +then a sereño loitered round the corner and uplifted +his voice, "Ave Maria purissima, sin pecado +concebida. Doce hora; noche sereña!" As the +echoes died away, he caught sight of the cart +standing where it ought not, and proceeded to investigate. +Moved by the same spirit of mischief, +we hurried to the chamber, and found a big jug of +water, which Zeke carefully poured upon the head +of the muttering vigilante. The effect was amazing. +Raving like a lunatic, he assaulted the great +door with feet and spear-butt, making an uproar +that speedily aroused everybody within earshot. +Our house hummed like a hive, and, before many<span class="pagenum">[86]</span> +minutes, we heard the hurried tramp of feet along +the uncarpeted corridors, and the babel of many +voices—the drenched official's shrilly predominant. +Presently they entered our room, to find +us just awaking from a sound sleep! and blinking +at the lanterns like owls. So deep had been our +slumbers, that it was some time before Zeke could +explain how I came to be there; but the landlord, +whom I recognized as an old acquaintance, was +quite easily satisfied about me. Clearly we were +not the offenders, and the search-party passed +along, leaving us to enjoy a frantic jig at the glorious +disturbance we had aroused. How the affair +was settled I never heard, for the next day was my +last of liberty.</p> + +<p>Zeke went down to the shipping-office to look +for a ship in the morning, leaving me to my own +devices. After an hour's ramble up town, I began +to feel a miserable reaction, helped on doubtless +by the fact that I had shared my last dollar with +my chum, and couldn't for the life of me see where +any more were coming from. Presently I turned +into a café and called for a cup of coffee (I had not +learned to drink anything stronger). While I sat +moodily sipping it, a drunken, disreputable-looking +man of about forty, roused himself from one of +the tables, and, coming over to where I was, addressed +me in broad Scotch. With maudlin tears +he assured me that he was the chief mate of the +<i>Sea Gem</i>, and that he must get on board that day, +but how he did not know. He dared not go out +for fear of being arrested; would I take pity on +him, and see him on board? He must have been<span class="pagenum">[87]</span> +in a queer state of mind, for I was but a boy of +thirteen, and small for my age. My pride was +touched, and I readily assented, leading him carefully +down to the wharf, and engaging a boat for +him. There I would have left him, but he held on +to me like a bear, swearing he would be lost and +undone without me, so I had to go off with him. +When we got alongside, the second mate appeared +at the gangway, and lowered a bowline, which I +slipped over the helpless creature's head and under +his arms. Thus he was hauled on board like a +sack of flour. Then the second mate sternly ordered +me to come up. I refused. But he quietly +said, "Well, then, I must come and fetch you." +That was sufficient; I mounted the side, and said +good-bye to Havana.</p> + +<p>That a rope's-ending awaited me, I felt sure; +but instead of that, the captain called me into his +cabin, and gave me a most fatherly talking to. +His kindness made me feel bad, and I promised +him forthwith to be a good boy, and forget my +vagabond, independent way of living ashore. +Patting me on the head, he dismissed me to make +my peace with the second mate, who was very +angry with me indeed. He received my apologies +in silence, and, although never friendly, I had no +cause to complain of his treatment afterwards. +Of the mate I saw nothing for two or three days, +for, although we left Havana the next morning, he +was in such a woeful condition, after his long debauch, +that he could not leave his berth. When he +did appear he seemed to have forgotten who I was. +His manner to me was extremely brutal; in fact,<span class="pagenum">[88]</span> +he was a brute all round—although a lively regard +for his own skin made him careful how he +treated the curious crowd of "dagoes" forward. +They were not at all a bad lot, and, considering +their limited vocabulary, got on fairly well with +the work of the ship. The little Frenchman, in +particular, was like a bundle of watch-springs. +When he once comprehended an order, it was delightful +to see him execute it. But his desperate +attempts to understand what was said were quite +pathetic. He spoke a mixture of Spanish and +French, which the others did not well understand; +and at last he pitched upon me as the only one +he could hold anything like a conversation with, +though how we managed it I have now no idea.</p> + +<p>Everybody liked the old man. He was so +genial, so simple, that it was a pleasure to see him. +But I am afraid he would have had a bad time of it +with a crew of Britishers. They appreciate a +tight hand, and are quick to take advantage of +anything like easy-going on the part of their officers. +This polyglot crowd, however, gave no +trouble; and, in spite of the bungling stupidity of +the mate, who never seemed to get quite clear of +the after-effects of his big drunk, things went on +oiled wheels.</p> + +<p>We were drawing near our port, when one +afternoon, during a fine wholesail breeze, there +was a sudden gloom which rapidly overspread the +sky. Somebody was keeping a bad look-out, +doubtless, for before any sail could be reduced, a +squall of wind and hail struck the vessel, throwing +her on her beam ends. It was so sudden that,<span class="pagenum">[89]</span> +although all halliards and sheets were let fly at +once, not a yard would come down, the ship lying +over at too great an angle. And above the roaring +of the wind, and the flapping of the flying canvas, +the ominous rumble of the stone ballast rattling +down to leeward could be plainly heard. +The deck was like the wall of a house, and, when I +saw the foaming sea rising up on the leeside as +high as the hatches, I felt sure she was turning +bottom up. By God's mercy, we had an old suit +of sails bent, which the wind stripped from the +yards and stays like muslin. Great sheets of canvas +flitted away into the darkness to leeward, +while the flying running-gear cracked like volleys +of musketry. Gradually as the pressure weakened +she righted, regaining as even a keel as the shifted +ballast would allow, and we were safe. But there +were many pale faces besides mine, the old captain +especially looking terribly shaken up.</p> + +<p>Every stitch of canvas that had been set when +the squall burst was gone, and, as the weather +gradually settled into a strong gale, there was a +desperate night's work ahead. In our position, +with a great deal of land about, it was imperatively +necessary to get sail set; but before that could be +done it had to be "bent," that is, secured to the +yards. Such a task as this tests the capabilities +of a crew very well. In a man-of-war, where they +can send a man to every roband, and a couple to +each earring, the job is fairly easy; but in a merchant-ship +it means almost superhuman labour, +from the scarcity of hands. I shall not attempt to +describe the process, which bristles with technical<span class="pagenum">[90]</span> +details, that cannot be grasped without a corresponding +idea of the conditions of work aloft in +bad weather. Suffice it to say that by midnight +the two lower topsails, foresail, and fore-topmast +staysail were set, and the hands, thoroughly exhausted, +allowed to rest a while. It was my first +experience of bad weather at sea, and I thought regretfully +of the ease and comfort of my late life. +But a kind of philosophic determination not to cry +over spilt milk, which has attended me all my life, +came to my rescue, and prevented me from being +too miserable.</p> + +<p>The poor old captain, however, was severely +tried. Evidently his fortitude and ability were +less than he had imagined. He looked worn and +decrepit, a settled anxiety gave him a haggard appearance, +and all hands pitied him. The fine +weather had entirely forsaken us, nothing but +fierce squalls and incessantly shifting winds prevailing +until we made Dog Island, at the entrance +to Mobile Bay, under the lee of which we came to +an anchor. Our troubles were even then not +over, for a gale sprang up almost immediately, +which raised so ugly a sea that the lively vessel +almost plunged bows under. All hands but the +captain and myself were aloft, furling the sails forward. +I stood alone by the windlass, ready to +slack or make fast such running-gear as I was +called upon to look after, when, with a tremendous +bound, the ship reared herself high in air forrard, +snapping the sorely-tried cable, the released links +of which flew aft over the windlass-barrel with a +deafening crash and shower of sparks. Every<span class="pagenum">[91]</span>thing +was at once dropped aloft, the hands came +sliding down backstays at their best gait, and in +less than five minutes the other anchor was let go. +Cable was veered away to ninety fathoms, and fervent +hopes expressed that she would hold, for +night was almost upon us, and our position was +dangerous in the extreme. Happily the wind +hauled soon after, the sea became smooth, and we +rode in comparative comfort till noon next day, +when a powerful tug came down and towed us up +among the shipping to a secure berth.</p> + +<p>A fine fleet of ships lay here, all loading cotton +for Liverpool. Nor, in spite of the number of +vessels, was there any delay in commencing our +cargo, for the next day, after mooring, a gang of +stevedores came on board and set to work, with +characteristic American energy, to prepare the +hold. Our captain left us for Mobile City in the +same steamer that brought them, returning with +the first load of cotton, but only to bid us farewell. +He called us all aft, and, with a quivering lip, informed +us that he did not feel equal to taking the +ship home. Therefore he had determined to +make way for a better man, who would be with us +in a few days. He thanked all hands for the way +they had treated him, and then, shaking hands all +round, got into the boat and was rowed away to an +upward-bound steamer, which lay alongside our +nearest neighbour, the <i>Mary Durkee.</i> A hearty +cheer followed him, which, if it lacked the simultaneous +volume peculiar to Britons, was certainly +no less sincere.</p> + +<p>Then the cotton began to come in. The great<span class="pagenum">[92]</span> +loosely pressed bales, weighing some six hundredweight +each, were whipped on board like magic +by a single-purchase steam-winch on board the +steamer, and tumbled into the hold as fast as they +came. Below, operations commenced by laying +a single tier of bales, side by side across the ship, +on the levelled ballast, leaving sufficient space in +the middle of the tier to adjust a jack-screw. +Then, to a grunting chantey, the screw was extended +to its full length, and another bale inserted. +The process was repeated until at last long wooden +levers were attached to the iron bars of the screw, +and the whole gang "tallied" on until the last +possible bale was squeezed into the tier, which was +then almost as solid as a beam of timber built into +the ship. It was a point of honour among stevedores +to jam as many bales into a ship as she could +possibly be made to contain, and restraint was +often needed to prevent the energetic workers +from seriously injuring vessels by the displacement +of deck-planks, stanchions, bulkheads, and even +beams.</p> + +<p>On deck there was much to do. A winter passage +across the Atlantic was before us. The vessel +had been greatly neglected in Havana, and a great +deal of sail-making had to be done. The mate, +having obtained a demijohn of "bug-juice" from +one of the cotton-steamers, was constantly drunk; +so that all the work devolved upon the austere second +mate, who toiled early and late to keep matters +in hand. Owing to the docility of the crew, +this was possible; but he was greatly relieved +when one fine morning a tall, determined-looking<span class="pagenum">[93]</span> +man with a sallow face, heavy black moustache, and +nasal twang arrived on board, and announced himself +as "Captain Jones, come to take command." +Within half an hour of his arrival, he had been all +over the ship, had interviewed every member of the +crew, and had repeated at least a dozen times that +he was a "down Easter," and proposed to "run +this packet Yankee fashion." With an intuition +I have always had, I determined at once that he +was carrying a good cargo of liquor; and it was as +well for the besotted chief mate that this was so, +for he would not otherwise have been so friendly +with him, I'm sure. His rounds completed, he +retired to the "saloon," catching sight of me as he +went, and appointing me cabin-boy on the spot. +My first duty was to call the mate into his presence. +There and then the two of them, seated +<i>vis-a-vis</i>, began to drink themselves speechless, +while I stood in attendance, filling up their glasses +until they could no longer hold them. At last +they rolled off their seats, and lay across one another +insensible. I retired and informed the steward, +who lifted his hands despairingly, exclaiming, +"Fo' de good Lawd, dis gwine ter be ole hell erfloat. +One on 'em's bad nuff, but skipper en mate +bofe: wa' we gwine ter do <i>I</i> doan know." But +Captain Jones' carouse only lasted a couple of +days. At the expiration of that time he "sobered +up," and, though looking very demoralized, went +about the ship like a man that knew his business +thoroughly and meant doing it. Strangely +enough, he allowed the mate to go on as he had +been doing, never interfering with him in any way.<span class="pagenum">[94]</span></p> + +<p>When two-thirds of our cargo was in, Captain +Jones went up to the city again. During his absence +the stevedores quitted work and left us for +the Christmas holidays. By Christmas Eve there +was not a steamer left in the bay, and an aching +sense of discontent manifested itself all through +the fleet. Not to speak of any festive provision, +there was an actual dearth of fresh stores of any +kind, as no vessels had been down for several days. +Boats came and went from ship to ship on the +same errand, seeking wherewithal to make a +Christmas dinner; but there was no hope, all were +alike unprovided. Gloom sat on every face as the +prospect of a salt-junk dinner on Christmas Day +grew more definite, and the language used about +the matter was altogether improper and unseasonable. +But, just as dusk was stealing in, a solitary +schooner was sighted coming into the bay from +the river under a press of canvas, which, in spite +of the light breeze prevailing, drove her along at +a good pace. It was quite dark by the time she +reached us, and much to our surprise dropped her +anchor close aboard of us. As soon as she swung +to the wind the voice of Captain Jones hailed us +from her deck, crying, "Send a boat aboard!" He +had no sooner spoken than a perfect chorus arose +about him: the squealing of swine, the cackling of +geese, and the shrill war-cry of turkeys. Blessed +discord! filling us with visions of feasting too delightful +for speech. There was no delay in getting +the boat afloat, all hands being full of eagerness +to assist.</p> + +<p>After receiving the skipper, the boat made a<span class="pagenum">[95]</span> +tour of the anchorage, Captain Jones standing up +as each ship was passed, and shouting the good +news at the top of his voice. Then returning to +the schooner, the boatmen laboured like Trojans +to transfer the stock to our deck. Besides the +poultry and pigs, there was a huge pile of fresh +beef, vegetables, and enough drinkables to furnish +a carouse for the combined crews of the whole +fleet. The transhipment was barely completed +when customers began to arrive. Soon we were +the centre of a flotilla of boats, whose crews lined +our rails while the skippers examined the provisions. +All the lamps in the ship were lighted and +hung about, and, a rostrum being erected, Captain +Jones began his auction. It was the strangest +scene I ever witnessed on board ship. Roars of +laughter punctuated every remark of the auctioneer, +and, assisted by swiftly circulating bottles +of strong waters, the fun raged furiously until long +past midnight. Then, as the last of the visitors +departed uproariously, our excited crowd quickly +calmed down, and quiet reigned until a late hour +on Christmas morning. Of the subsequent feast +there is no need to speak. Sufficient to say that +it laid over all my experiences on board ship, for +our skipper, having cleared a goodly sum by his +"cuteness" and enterprise, could well afford to +be generous; and he was.</p> + +<p>Four or five days elapsed before our stevedores +returned, and the work of shipping cargo re-commenced. +But once they got to work again no +more time was lost. A week more saw every crevice, +wherein it was possible to jam, by the most<span class="pagenum">[96]</span> +violent means, a bale of cotton, utilized, and even +then the skipper growled because the time of year +made it impossible for him to risk carrying a few +bales on deck. At last the day came on which +Captain Jones was to make his last journey to +town to clear the ship for sea. Before he went, he +called all hands aft and offered to buy such clothing +as they required for the homeward passage. +Being almost destitute of "dunnage," I ventured +to put in my plea for a little, but was grievously +disappointed. He would not buy me a rag, telling +me that I was not a wage-earner but a passenger, +and he couldn't afford to spend money out of +his own pocket. Two days after we weighed for +home.</p> + +<p>We had fairly good weather as we were swept +through the tortuous Florida Straits by the rush +of the Gulf Stream, which, whether you will or +not, carries you to the north-east at the rate of a +hundred miles in twenty-four hours. But we were +hardly clear of the land before a fierce north-westerly +gale came howling down upon us, and my sufferings +commenced in real earnest. For although +I was supposed to be cabin-boy, I had to be on +deck almost as much as I was in the cabin. The +mate seemed to take a curious sort of pleasure in +hazing me about, as if he had some personal +grudge against me, although I never could understand +why. I was so bitterly cold-footed that I +stole a pair of the captain's stockings—I had nothing +but a pair of patent-leather shoes—for footwear. +They (the stockings) were very old, and I +soon wore out the feet, which I cut off at the<span class="pagenum">[97]</span> +ankles, sewed up the openings, and put them on +again. This ingenuity led to disaster, for springing +up on the after-house one day by the side of +the captain, who was leaning against it, he saw his +initials on my leg. Investigation followed, in +which I pleaded my sufferings from cold and his +refusal to get me anything to wear in Mobile. My +excuse was, of course, unacceptable, and, although +he did not beat me, I was forbidden the cabin precincts +any more, and compelled to go barefoot for +the remainder of the passage.</p> + +<p>I was now in the mate's watch, and that +worthy treated me with studied brutality. I +scarcely ever came within reach of him but I got a +kick—he seldom struck me with his hands.</p> + +<p>As we got farther to the eastward the weather +grew worse and worse. Gale succeeded gale with +hardly a lull between, but our vessel being in such +fine trim, we were decidedly better off than as if +she had been deep in the water. At last, however, +we fell in with a regular hurricane. Every stitch +of canvas was taken in but a storm-staysail, made +of the heaviest canvas woven, under which we lay-to +until she gave a tremendous weather-lurch, and, +rolling to leeward with a vicious jerk, the triangular +patch of sail blew clean out of its bolt-ropes. +From that time we lay under bare poles for eighteen +hours, during much of which I sat on the +poop beside the tiller, hauling back the slack of +the wheel-ropes, more dead than alive from the +wet and cold. Never having seen such a storm at +sea before, I was dreadfully frightened, until I saw +how unconcernedly the sea-birds hovered about<span class="pagenum">[98]</span> +us. Then I reasoned that if those tiny things +were so secure, surely a big ship like ours must be +much more so. Unsound as my conclusion was, +it comforted me, and I had no more fear. A few +days of light fine weather succeeded this storm, +during which everything was made ship-shape +again aloft. The captain was a prime seaman, and, +having completely left off his drinking, managed +everything in first-rate style. But he never forgave +me for my theft, nor did he ever check the +mate for his ill-usage of me.</p> + +<p>One lovely afternoon, to the surprise of all +hands, the order was given to shorten sail. There +was not a cloud in the sky, and a gentle south-westerly +breeze was wafting us along about four +knots an hour. But, as the work of furling the +upper canvas proceeded, the rumour went round +that the "glass," as seamen always term the barometer, +was falling very fast. It may have been, +but for twenty-four hours we lay under lower +topsails and courses, not a trace of change in the +serene weather prevailing. In the first watch of +the next night there stole over the sky a gloomy +shade, which deepened until the heavens were +black. Not black as night, or black as ink, but as +if a pall of black velvet had been suspended over +the sea, scarcely higher than the mastheads. The +wind died completely away. The water was +smooth as oil, and so still that not a creaking rope +or rattling sheave disturbed the deathlike silence. +When the look-out man struck four bells, the +sound seemed to wound like a sword-cut, so sharp +and unnatural was its clangour. This state of<span class="pagenum">[99]</span> +things lasted for about three hours. Then, gradually, +tiny threads of light ran waveringly in every +direction, as if the solemn dome of darkness above +was cracking, and revealing an immense glow +above it. The brilliant crevices widened, grew +longer and more vivid, until the whole firmament +was aglow with flashes of intensest light, while all +our spars were outlined in lambent flame. This +display lasted for about an hour, then faded away; +the gloom disappeared, and the deep blue sky, +studded with innumerable stars and unflecked by +a single cloud, extended from horizon to horizon. +This beautiful weather lasted for another twenty-four +hours, and then a gentle westerly breeze +sprang up, which gradually freshened, until we +were flying along homeward at tremendous speed, +carrying every stitch of canvas the ship could stagger +under.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the mate's treatment of me got +worse, until one night he dealt me a savage kick, +which hurled me off the poop on to the main deck, +where I lay insensible for some time. Although +no bones were broken, I had received such severe +injury that I was unable to walk for two days. +During my confinement I made a desperate resolution, +and, as soon as I resumed work again, carried +it into effect by boldly approaching my merciless +tyrant, and telling him that I was a consul's +passenger, as he very well knew. I promised him +that if there was any law that could reach him, I +would endeavour to have him punished for his +cruelty. And now I said, "You can kill me if you +like, I don't care." Much to my surprise, he<span class="pagenum">[100]</span> +weakened at once, and for the remainder of the +voyage I was freed from his cowardly attacks.</p> + +<p>The brave westerly wind that was hurling us +homeward acted as usual. That is to say, it +strengthened until, slowly and reluctantly, sail +was reduced to the two lower topsails and reefed +foresail. The ship was so buoyant that the mountainous +seas which surrounded her, and often rose +upon either side to such a height as to make it appear +as if we were racing through a deep green +valley, never broke on board. But the skilful, +courageous steering required could only be performed +by a few selected members of the crew. +Several men had to be suddenly relieved of the +task, for their nerve failed them at sight of the +mighty green walls soaring above their heads, and +they were within an ace of letting her broach-to. +This terrible calamity, which has been the end of +so many fine ships, occurs when the vessel swings +broadside on to a great sea, which either smashes +her up or rolls her over. In the most favourable +cases much damage is bound to follow. We saw +one sorrowful instance of it in a brig, which we +flew by, helpless to aid. She was just sinking, the +doomed crew clinging to the weather rigging as +if to put off their inevitable fate for a few fleeting +minutes. A huge sea rose between us, hiding +her from view, and when we soared on the crest of +the next one, she was gone like a foam flake.</p> + +<p>Thus we ran until the colour of the water told +us we were nearing the land, and soon we saw +through the flying spindrift the lonely outpost of +the Fastnet rock, with its sturdy lighthouse, +<span class="pagenum">[101]</span>which looked to me like a beckoning finger. +Then mist-wreaths and snow-squalls shut out +everything from view, except a barque, which, apparently +going to Liverpool like ourselves, kept +steadily on about a mile in front of us. So exactly +did we keep in her wake that it looked as if we were +following her lead. The weather got thicker, but +the gale was unabated, and still we flew before it. +Suddenly we were all startled by the report of a +gun, and out of the fog on the starboard bow +loomed the figure of a lightship with three ball-crowned +masts. Our leader had disappeared. As +we passed the lightship she fired another gun, and +a lift in the fog showed the name on her side—<i>Coningbeg</i>. +Still we kept on, all hands watching +the skipper's troubled face. But a sudden roar of +"Breakers right ahead!" sent all hands flying to +the braces. Hard down went the helm, and round +came the ship on her heel, the spray from the +heavy following sea flying high over our topsail-yards, +while the tender vessel heeled over until the +lee rail was under water. Not a moment too +soon, for the furious roar of the baffled breakers +sounded deafeningly, as their fleecy crests boiled +and foamed under our lee only half a dozen cables-length +away. Slowly, slowly we clawed off that +ugly reef. For more than an hour the issue was in +gravest doubt; then hope began to revive as the +good ship's weatherly qualities became manifest, +and it was plain to all that we were drawing clear. +The breeze now began to take off a bit, and more +sail was made. Without any further incident, we +ran steadily up-channel to Point Lynas, where we<span class="pagenum">[102]</span> +got a pilot and a tug, which by daylight brought +us safely to an anchorage in the Mersey. We only +anchored for an hour or two, waiting for high +water, when we were coaxed into the Brunswick +Dock, and made solidly fast on the side next the +street. As soon as ever I could do so unobserved, +I slipped down a fender lanyard and touched England +with my feet, feeling a delightful thrill as I +did so. Why, I did not know, but the fact remains. +A homeless, friendless waif, with no prospects +before me, no one to welcome me, I rejoiced +to be in England again, as if I, too, felt it good to +be at home.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_100" id="illo_100"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_120.jpg" alt="120" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">A huge sea rose between us, hiding her from view, and when we soared +on the crest of the next one she was gone like a foam flake.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[103]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">STRUGGLES IN LIVERPOOL AND LONDON.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> a very short time all hands had left the ship +but myself. A decrepit old man arrived from +somewhere to act as watchman; but he took no +notice of me, and I made no advances. Not a +word had been said to me by anybody when they +left the ship, and I was greatly in doubt as to +whether I was supposed to clear out like everybody +else. But I was very sure that I did not +know where to go, and so I coiled myself up in my +bunk and went to sleep, as it was getting late. +When I woke it was morning. A heavy fall of +snow had covered everything during the night, +and the outlook was as desolate and dreary as +could be imagined. Making my way aft, I found +the cabin all locked up; so that, though I was +ravenously hungry, there was no chance of getting +anything to eat. The ancient watchman was fast +asleep in the galley, into which I stole to warm my +freezing bare feet. As soon as I got the chill out +of my bones I returned to the fo'lk'sle, and found, +to my delight, an old pair of boots that one of the +chaps had discarded. With these and some rags +I covered my aching feet, and then, mounting on +the rail, looked long and eagerly shorewards.<span class="pagenum">[104]</span> +Presently I made out, over the window of a small +shop, the legend, "Brunswick Dock Eating-house," +and noted with satisfaction a feather of +smoke curling from one of the chimneys belonging +to the building. Hardly stopping to think, I +slipped down a rope and ran across the road, +knocking boldly at the door. A ruddy-faced little +girl about my own age opened it, and said, hesitatingly, +"What d'you want?" Trying to look +big, I said, "I'm a sailor belonging to that ship +there, an' I want to come an' lodge here till I'm +paid off." With a doubtful glance at my beggarly +outfit, she said, "I'll go and call aunty," and +ran off upstairs. There was a glorious fire roaring +in a great open fireplace at the end of the low +flagged room, so, without waiting permission, I +entered, and seated myself on a bench close to the +bright blaze. In a few minutes a sharp, business-like +woman came down. In response to her keen +questions I told my story, carefully avoiding any +reference to my "passenger" status on board. +Apparently she was satisfied, for in a very short +time I was supplied with such a breakfast as had +long haunted my hungry dreams. Rashers of +toasted bacon, boiled eggs, new bread-and-butter, +fragrant coffee—it was just heavenly. All my +miseries were forgotten in present joys, and I ate +and ate until, suddenly looking up, I saw the little +girl gazing at me with awe. No wonder she was +astonished. The way I was demolishing the food +was a sight to see. But, meeting my eye, she +blushed crimson, and gabbled something in a +strange tongue (which I afterwards learned was<span class="pagenum">[105]</span> +Welsh) to her aunt, who stood also looking at me +with a good-humoured smile on her face.</p> + +<p>Being warmed and fed, two satisfactory experiences +to which I had long been a stranger, I was +in no hurry to leave such comfortable quarters for +the bleak outer world. But during the morning I +ran over to the ship, and finding there the cook, I +learned that she was to be paid off the next day. +I determined to present myself with the rest at the +shipping-office, although my hopes of getting any +money were very faint. Still I knew enough of +the world to be certain that, without money, I +should not be allowed to remain at my present +lodgings. So at the appointed hour I marched up +to the Sailors' Home, meeting with a cordial +welcome from my shipmates, especially the little +Frenchman. Better still, as each of them received +their money, they very kindly gave me a little, the +total amount thus contributed being twenty-two +shillings. Then came my turn to appear at the +pay table. My heart beat fast with apprehension +as I faced Captain Jones, my head only just appearing +above the counter. His words were gruff and +his manner unkind, but I believe he was moved +with pity for my forlorn position, for he actually +gave me two pounds ten shillings, pay at the rate +of one pound a month. I was so glad that I knew +not what to say, but I hastily retreated lest he +should change his mind and take the money away +again. As fast as my legs would carry me, I ran +back to the boarding-house to exhibit my wealth +to the landlady. I had never had so much money +of my own before, and was proportionately elated,<span class="pagenum">[106]</span> +the thought of how much I needed it never entering +my head. The landlady immediately suggested +that I should treat her and her crony from next +door, who was in conversation with her, at which +proposition I felt quite a man, and inquired loftily +what the ladies would take. A little drop of +"Donovans" appeared to be the favourite liquor, +a totally unknown beverage to me, but I should +have agreed had it been champagne. The little +niece was dispatched for it, as well as a couple of +bottles of ginger-beer for us, who were too young +and wise to thirst for "Donovans"—which I +knew, as soon as it arrived, to be rum.</p> + +<p>To do my landlady justice, she interested herself +in getting me some decent clothing, and promised +to keep me on what remained of my money +until I got another ship or some employment +ashore. But getting a ship, I found, was an impossible +task. My diminutive size and weakly appearance +obtained for me only derision when I ventured +to ask for a berth on what I considered likely-looking +craft, and it soon appeared hopeless to +look in that direction any more. Help came from +an unexpected quarter. Next door to my lodging-place +was the workshop of a figure-head carver, +who was a young, energetic man of great skill, and +very intimate with my landlady. He was kind +enough to employ me in his business, where I soon +became useful in sharpening tools and roughing-out +work for him and his brother to finish. He +paid me sufficient for my board and lodging, which, +considering that he was teaching me his trade, was +very generous. Here I was quite happy, for my<span class="pagenum">[107]</span> +new master was kindness itself; and I believe I was +really quick to profit by all I was taught, so as to +be worth my pay. But my evil genius pursued me +still. His brother became jealous of the attentions +I received, and, after I had been with them a +couple of months, quarrels between them on my +account were of almost daily occurrence. This +unsatisfactory state of things culminated in my +getting knocked senseless one morning by my +enemy during his brother's absence at a job. +When Mr. R. returned he was alarmed at my appearance, +for I had an ugly cut on the head which +made me look quite ghastly. A tremendous row +followed, the upshot of which was that Mr. R. +sorrowfully informed me that he was obliged to +send me away before serious harm was done. He +advised me to return to London, where I was better +known(?), and gave me ten shillings to pay my +fare thither. I took his advice forthwith, finding +no difficulty in getting a half ticket to Euston, +where I arrived with two shillings and sixpence in +my pocket.</p> + +<p>The well-known streets looked strange to me +after my long absence. In fact, I felt more in the +way than ever. I knew nobody that could or +would shelter me, and I had got out of the way of +street life. Husbanding my scanty store of coppers +as well as I could, I haunted Thames Street in +the hope that I might pick up a coaster at the +King's Head, where, in those days, skippers of +small craft used to get most of their crews. There +is a cook-shop with a tank of pea-soup in the window, +where for a penny I could always get a bellyfull<span class="pagenum">[108]</span> +of the thick, comforting stuff—the best value +for money in the grub line that I knew of, and I +was no bad judge. It—the tank—used to be +cleaned out every three days, and a fresh jorum of +soup made. On the first day it was comparatively +thin; on the second, being filled up without removing +the solid matter settled at the bottom, it +was better; but on the third day you could almost +cut it—a spoon would stand upright in it. And, +anxious to clear it out, they gave bigger penn'orths. +I often used to go without on the second +day, so that I could have two separate portions +on the third; after which I felt as bloated as an +alderman after a civic feast. But the pence failed, +and I picked up very few more; so that, though I +slept in any hole or corner I could find, to avoid +the expense of lodgings, the time soon came when +I was face to face with starvation again. Then a +bright idea occurred to me, so obvious that I wondered +why it hadn't struck me before. I had my +discharge from the <i>Sea Gem</i>. I would seek a kindly +boarding-master, and ask him to keep me till I +got a ship, paying himself out of my advance. I +knew better than to go to the so-called "Sailors' +Home." They don't take in hard-up seamen there. +It is only a home for those who can pay down for +their accommodation.</p> + +<p>With my fortunate idea burning in my mind, I +hastened down the West India Dock Road, attacking +the first house I saw with "boarding-house +for seamen" painted up over it. The proprietor, +an old bo'sun, grumbled at my request a +good deal, but he took me in, God bless him!<span class="pagenum">[109]</span> +More than that, he got me a ship three days after +by means of his influence that way, and once again +I was freed from the misery of being masterless. +The vessel in which I was to sail was a splendid +barque, reminding me strongly of the luckless <i>Discoverer</i>, +and about the same size. I shall call her +the <i>Bonanza</i>, for reasons of my own, though that +was not her name. She was bound to a port in +Jamaica, with a general cargo for new owners, and +with a new captain and officers. When we came +up to sign on at "Green's Home," I found, to my +delight, that I was to have twenty shillings a +month. Like all the rest, I received a month's +advance, out of which my boarding-master paid +himself, and provided me with a "donkey's breakfast" +(straw-bed), hook-pot, pannikin, and plate; +a knife, and a suit of oilskins. So <i>he</i> didn't rob me +to any great extent. He also gave me a few odds +and ends of clothing, which had been left by boarders, +out of which, being a fair hand with my needle, +I managed to botch up enough garments to +change. I bade him good-bye with hearty feelings +of gratitude, which he fully deserved, and +took my departure on board my ship.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[110]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">BOUND FOR JAMAICA.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">All</span> hands had been ordered on board in the +afternoon, the tide serving about five p.m., but +from some unexplained cause we did not sail at +the time appointed. This delay led to complications, +for although the crew had, for a wonder, +come on board fairly sober, they all rejoiced at +the opportunity afforded them of a last carouse. +By some mysterious means some money was obtained; +all hands departed for the purlieus of Shadwell, +with the result that at ten o'clock the officers +were scouring the slums hunting for them. It +was a hopeless task, as the event proved, for by +midnight only two had been found, and they were +both helplessly drunk. They were dragged on +board like bundles of rags, and hoisted into their +bunks, where they remained in peace. That tide +being lost, the officers had a few hours' rest, turning +out again about four a.m. to renew the search. +Meanwhile the vessel was shifted into the Shadwell +Basin, ready to start the moment her crew +were on board. The morning broke cheerlessly +enough with a light fall of snow, gradually increasing +to a blinding mist of white, through which occasionally +a little party came dragging some oblivi<span class="pagenum">[111]</span>ous +mariner, who had spent his respite in filling +himself with whatever fire-water he could obtain. +At last, weary of waiting, the skipper determined +to go on, although he was still two men short. +Accordingly the warps were cast off, the tug +backed in and took hold of us, and away we went +down the river through the thick veil of snow that +made the "mud pilot's" job both difficult and +dangerous. There was another boy besides me, a +burly fellow of sixteen, who very soon made it +clear to me that I was not going to lead a pleasant +time with him. He had come from the <i>Warspite</i>, +and knew nothing of the ways of merchant-ships, +which gave me a little advantage over him in one +way. But he was well provided with plenty of +warm clothing, by the bounty of the Marine Society, +while I was so thinly clad that the piercing +cold benumbed all my faculties, and I crawled +about like a snail, making a very bad impression +upon the officers. Our arrival at Gravesend came +as a blessed relief, for there was a good hot meal +of fresh food ready as soon as the anchor was +down. And as all the seamen were in a deep, +drunken slumber, Bill, my colleague, and myself +had a mighty feed all to ourselves, after which we +turned in, and slept unmolested till supper-time. +The skipper had gone ashore to get a couple of +men in place of the defaulters, and did not return +till after dark. He brought two sober seamen +with him, who looked as though they had been +outward-bound for a very long time. Their +cheeks were quite hollow with hunger, and they +had hardly more clothing than they stood in. Yet<span class="pagenum">[112]</span> +they were both able men, proving indeed the best +seamen on board. After they had eaten a good +meal, they were set to keep anchor-watch turn +about, until at midnight all hands were called +to man the windlass.</p> + +<p>I wish it was possible to give my readers an +idea of the misery involved in this operation under +such conditions. First of all, the officers were +obliged to drag the sodden sleepers from their +lairs; then to shake, if possible, some gleam of +sense into them, some faint idea of what was required +of them. After nearly an hour's struggle, +the miserable men were at last mustered on the +fo'lk'sle head at the windlass levers, where, exposed +to the full fury of the bitter wind, they cowered +more like sheep than men. Their feelings, as +the drink died out of them, and the cold searched +their very vitals, must have been horrible. Occasionally +one of them would slip down gently +from the fo'lk'sle and disappear, only to be hunted +up again by the vigorous boatswain, who kept a +watchful eye upon any would-be skulkers. More +by dint of the bo'sun's energy, I believe, than any +vitality in the limp crew, the anchor was at last +lifted, the hawser passed to the hovering tug, and +away we glided ghost-like down-stream. Ben, +the big boy, and myself were pretty well fagged +out with hauling back the big links of cable, and +stowing them in neat fakes abaft the windlass; but +the bo'sun believed in keeping boys on the go, so +we got no time to think about being tired. Luckily +for us the wind was dead on end, so that it was +useless making sail. All hands were kept busily<span class="pagenum">[113]</span> +employed clearing up the decks, getting the running-gear +into its proper places, and generally preparing +the ship for independent travelling. By +daylight the weather grew better, the wind veered +to the eastward a little, and the fore-and-aft sails +were set. So we drew slowly round to the North +Foreland, where the tug slipped our hawser; all +sail was set, and we were fairly started on our voyage. +As I got a little warmth into my stiffened +limbs, I won back some of the good opinion I had +forfeited by my clumsy, spiritless movements of +the previous day. Being sent aloft to loose some +of the square sails, I was cheered by hearing the +elderly mate remark quietly, "That's a smart little +boy," and I must confess I was not displeased to +note that Ben only succeeded in drawing down +maledictions on his head for his clumsiness and +general inability to do what was required of him. +There was a vengeful gleam in his eye, as he saw +how inferior he was in smartness to myself, which +boded no good to me, and from the first day out +he never lost an opportunity of doing me an ill +turn.</p> + +<p>The captain was a fine, manly specimen of a +seaman, with glowing red hair and beard, and a +voice of thunder. Fiery tempered, yet easily pacified, +he was also one of the most energetic of men, +and I never saw a skipper better liked by his crew. +The mate was a middle-aged man, at least ten +years the captain's senior, rather slow and sedate, +but a thorough seaman and navigator. The bo'sun, +who was acting second mate, was an old shipmate +of the skipper's, and quite his equal in en<span class="pagenum">[114]</span>ergy. +He was one of that fast-decaying type of +seamen, a Blackwall rigger, to whom every detail +of sailorizing was as familiar as eating his breakfast. +Besides this, he was a born leader of men, +who would enforce his will regardless of consequences. +No man durst give him "slack lip" on +pain of being instantly knocked endways; a feat +of which, by reason of his size and strength, he +was fully capable. As a result we were a well-disciplined +crowd, from whom no growling was heard +whatever the work imposed. There were eight +A.B.'s, out of whom only three were foreigners; +but not one of them calls for any special description +from me. They all had the bad old idea that +boys were born slaves, who must do all the dirty +work on deck, and when below be content with +their leavings, wait upon them hand and foot, and +take uncomplainingly all the ill-treatment it was +their prerogative to bestow. Being at the bottom +of the scale, I had a wretched life. For I was no +match for Ben, who unfailingly passed on his share +of blows to me, so that I was seldom without +some visible marks of ill-usage. But the food was +certainly above the average. The skipper had the +provisioning of the ship, and, being a just man, he +did not do as so many would have done under the +same circumstances: starve the men to fatten his +own pocket. What with the decent meals, and +the masterfulness of the bo'sun, she was a contented +ship, and more work was done in a day on board +than I have ever seen before or since. As usual +on this passage, fine weather prevailed, the wind +being so steady that for days together we never<span class="pagenum">[115]</span> +touched a brace. This was taken advantage of by +the skipper to practically refit the ship, all hands +being kept at work all day long splicing, turning-in +blocks, serving shrouds, fitting new running-gear, +and doing rigger's work generally. At +night they all slept, with the exception of the +helmsman, the look-out man, the officer of the +watch and a boy, who had to keep near the officer +to carry his commands to the sleepers should the +need arise. Really I was kept so constantly at +work that, for all I saw of the sea and its marvels, +I might as well have been ashore. Except at +night, and then I was always half asleep through +getting so little legitimate opportunity for rest.</p> + +<p>Twenty-eight days flew rapidly past without +a single incident worth noting, the same blue sky +overhead, and steady breeze astern, until one +morning the beautiful shores of Jamaica loomed +up ahead. A few hours later we sailed in between +the points of a sheltering coral reef to an anchorage +in the pretty little harbour of Falmouth, +pompously announcing our arrival by the firing +of a four-pounder gun as the anchor was dropped. +While we were furling sails and clearing up the +decks, visitors were arriving from the four vessels +in harbour as well as from the shore, so that by the +time work was over our decks were thronged. The +skipper seemed a prime favourite here, judging by +the number of people who came to see him and +congratulate him upon his new command—the +largest vessel that had yet entered the little port. +There were high times forrard as well as aft, for +canoe-loads of good things were brought, and all<span class="pagenum">[116]</span> +hands invested recklessly on credit, forgetting that +as yet they had no money owing to them by the +ship. Not only eatables but sundry bottles of +new rum made their appearance, which potent +fluid soon made things exceedingly lively in the +fo'lk'sle. Matters culminated, of course, in a free +fight, which so alarmed me that I crept into a +corner under the heel of the bowsprit, out of +the way of the revellers. There I went to sleep +so soundly that it was morning when I again +emerged at the hoarse cry of the boatswain calling +us to "turn to."</p> + +<p>The darkies here were even merrier than my +old friends of Demerara. Such a jovial, musical +lot I never saw. Living from hand to mouth on +the coarsest food, and with the oddest assortment +of rags for clothing possible to be imagined, they +really seemed to be perfectly happy. The feeblest +joke was sufficient to send them into convulsions +of laughter, and the gift of an old shirt or pair of +pants would keep them on the broad grin for a +couple of days. My life was so consistently miserable +from harsh treatment, that I continually envied +them their careless existence, wondering all +the time how they managed to be so jolly under +what I often saw to be painful circumstances. To +crown my misfortunes I fell ill. After suffering +for two or three days, I was sent ashore to hospital. +Then I was thankful for what I had thought the +climax of my misery. For in the hospital I was +allowed to do pretty well as I liked. There was +no discipline, no rule of any kind. The doctor, as +we called him (I think he must have been the dis<span class="pagenum">[117]</span>penser), +was a mulatto, or quadroon, with a comical +notion of his vast importance, but a kindly +young fellow enough. Sometimes I had medicine; +but only by accident, I believe. At any +rate, I soon got better, and rambled about the +great building or played on the beach outside with +the darky boys of about my own age, forgetting +that such a place as the <i>Bonanza's</i> fo'lk'sle existed. +At last I began to hope that the captain had forgotten +my existence, having some dim idea, I suppose, +that I might be allowed to spend an indefinite +time in this pleasant way. But I was to be +rudely undeceived. One day, when I was presiding +with much importance over a game at +cricket (much I knew about it), with twenty or +thirty youngsters of almost as many shades of +colour around me, I suddenly heard my captain +calling me, with an angry note in his voice that +boded me no good. He had come up from the +town to inquire about me, and had caught me unaware. +"You lazy young sodjer!" he cried, +"this is how sick you are, is it? I'll give you a +lesson for this! Get down to the boat!" The +thought of returning to the ship was so terrible +to me that I actually dared to ask him to let me go—to +discharge me. In a voice that shook with +fear and anxiety I told him how I had been treated, +and implored him not to take me back with him. +I believe he was half-melted, but his anger at what +he thought was my skulking got the better of him. +"Serve you very well right," he said. "I'll give +you a rope's-ending myself when I've got time. +Now be off with you, straight down to the boat."<span class="pagenum">[118]</span> +With that he strode on to the hospital, while I, +feeling as if I was going to the scaffold, trudged +through the sand down to the landing-place. In +about an hour he returned, but said no word more +to me as the boat danced over the wavelets back +to that hateful prison. It was "knock-off" time, +and I busied myself in sweeping up decks with all +the alacrity I could muster, until I was free to +fetch my many masters their tea from the galley. +They hailed me with many sarcastic queries after +my health, and the noble time they supposed I had +enjoyed ashore at their expense, commiserating +Ben exceedingly for having been obliged to do my +work, as they said, while I had been loafing ashore. +Happily I got over the evening without anything +worse than hard words being thrown at me. +Some grievance or another had excited the anger +of a big Irishman, and he soon monopolized all attention +by a recital of his wrongs. It appeared +that the bo'sun had "got a down on him," in his +opinion; but if the bo'sun thought that he, Mike, +was going to be played with, that was just where +he was all adrift. He, Mike, was a blank Fenian, +so he was, an' he'd just shwim in blood before he +was put upon by any blank dock-walloper that +ever mooched around Blackwall, so he would. In +the fervour of his harangue he omitted to notice +how he had raised his voice; but he was presently +reminded of it by the voice of the bo'sun at the +fo'lk'sle door, calling, "Mike, I want you a minute!" +There was complete silence in a moment, +which reigned until the bo'sun repeated his words, +with the quiet addition, "You don't want me to<span class="pagenum">[119]</span> +fetch you out, I s'pose?" Then Mike protested +feebly that it was his watch below, that he was having +his supper, that various reasons, in fact, prevented +him from emerging. Like a tiger the bo'sun +leapt into the crowded space. There was a +medley of arms, heads, and legs, a hubbub of inarticulate +noises, but out of it all the bo'sun and +Mike emerged on deck. How they got there, I +don't believe any one knew. I heard the bo'sun +imploring Mike to stand up to him like a man, +and Mike piteously reminding him that he was by +no means his match, that he was twenty years older +(which was nearly true). "Very well, then," said +the boss, "not so much of your slack next time. +If you're an old man, behave like one, an' don't +open your mouth so wide, in case anybody jumps +down your throat." There was peace after that. +Not even a word was said to me when I ventured +to crawl into the raffle of rags which was my bunk.</p> + +<p>At daylight next morning all hands were called +to get under way. In the cabin the skipper had +been entertaining a large party of friends, who had +been keeping up an extensive carouse all night. +Uproariously they departed their several ways as +we toiled at the windlass, while boats from all the +other vessels in port came and fastened on to us +to assist us out from between the reefs. Such aid +was absolutely necessary unless the miserably slow +method of warping out by a kedge-anchor was resorted +to. For in these West Indian ports there +is invariably, during the night, a gentle air from +the land, which soon after daybreak dies away to +a complete calm, lasting perhaps an hour, and suc<span class="pagenum">[120]</span>ceeded +by the invigorating "doctor," or sea-breeze. +This latter soon gathers strength and +blows more or less forcibly all day long. In consequence +of this it becomes imperative to gain an +offing before the "doctor" begins, in order that +the vessel may be able to fetch off the land in the +teeth of an increasing breeze.</p> + +<p>Having assisted us to get about two miles out, +the boats cast off from us, and with many hearty +farewells returned to port, taking with them our +pilot. A stark calm succeeded as usual, during +which all hands lounged about and whistled for a +breeze, until some of the keener observers noticed +that the strong undertow was sweeping us rapidly +towards a long spit of sand that stretched seaward, +about three miles to the northward of us. Presently +the mate's anxiety constrained him to approach +the captain, who, with flushed face and abstracted +air, was pacing the poop, and suggest +that the anchors might be prepared for letting go. +Strange to say, the skipper received this hint with +a bad grace, answering his officer so abruptly and +angrily that his words were distinctly audible all +over the ship. The mate, whose age and experience, +apart from his other undeniably good qualities, +entitled him to very different treatment, +bowed and retired, evidently much hurt. A short +period of silence followed, while the vessel, her +sails hanging as if carved in stone, and her hull +motionless, as if in dry dock, was being carried +along over the now visible coral bottom at the rate +of nearly four knots an hour. At last the bo'sun, +unable to contain himself, strode up to the cap<span class="pagenum">[121]</span>tain +and said boldly, "Cap'n——, if you don't +anchor this ship'll be ashore in another ten minutes." +"Get off my poop, you impudent rascal! +How dare you come an' speak to me like that! +For two pins I'd put you in irons. D'ye think I +don't know my duty? I never heard such cheek +in my life!" and he stamped with fury. But the +bo'sun simply said, "Well, don't you say you +wasn't warned, that's all," and, turning on his +heel, left the angry, unreasonable man to himself. +By this time all hands were fully possessed of the +idea that only a miracle could save the ship, for +the reef seemed to be actually touching the keel +through the clear water which was carrying us so +swiftly over it. And the idea of the vessel's loss +filled me with unholy joy. No one could realize +how terribly I dreaded the homeward passage, +and, now that deliverance seemed so near, I could +hardly restrain my feelings. Slinking into the +empty forecastle, I waited breathlessly for the +crash I felt sure was imminent. It came, a long +grinding sensation, like a boat grounding on a +pebbly beach magnified a thousand times. Almost +delirious, I danced about the place, in the +middle of which unpardonable exercise I was discovered +by the bo'sun. Outraged beyond speech, +he dealt me one savage kick, which put all dancing +out of my power for many a day, and for the present +stretched me motionless on the deck. Not, +however, to lie there long, for hearing my name +shouted outside, I dragged myself up, mustering +all my energy, and hobbled off to obey the call before +some worse thing should befall me.<span class="pagenum">[122]</span></p> + +<p>I found all hands toiling like ants, getting out +anchors and hawsers, and doing all that experience +could suggest to free the vessel from the position +of danger into which she had been brought so +recklessly. But the calm was over, the sea-breeze +had commenced, and was increasing so fast that +already the hitherto placid sea was beginning to +foam. Breakers, too, born of the jagged reef so +close to the surface, were rolling in steadily, although +as yet they were of puny height and +weight. Being at so short a distance from the port +we had left, our plight was plainly visible to those +on shore. Consequently, in a couple of hours, +every boat of sufficient size in the place was alongside. +Scores of willing hands plied every means by +which good might be done, but the steady increase +in wind and sea, driving directly shoreward, +mocked all efforts at heaving the ship off. There +were no steam vessels either in Falmouth or the adjacent +ports, so that, when every purchase that +could be got upon the anchors and cables laid out +astern was brought to a standstill, that branch +of the work was perforce abandoned.</p> + +<p>Then the cargo was attacked at all three +hatches, everybody working as if their very lives +depended upon their labours. The negroes especially +seemed to regard the whole affair as a gigantic +spree, for without abating one jot of their labours, +they yelled, sang, danced about, and behaved +generally like a pack of schoolboys just let +loose without any supervision. As the day wore +on the wind increased to a strong gale, and the +rollers attained so formidable a height that at<span class="pagenum">[123]</span> +times they lifted the vessel bodily from her jagged +bed of rock, letting her fall again with a crash that +threatened to shake all her stout timbers apart. +After each of these blows she seemed to slide seawards +a little, but all her buoyancy was gone—the +stern went down at an increasing angle, and the +water rose in the hold so freely that it was evident +there were some serious gaps in the hull. Still +the work went on. Drogher after drogher left us +filled with salvage, while others crowded as near +as they dared to receive the bags, cases and bundles, +that were constantly being hurled overside. +By nightfall all our own crew were worn out, and +transferred to one of the small craft which clung to +our side receiving the salved cargo. Each man +secured what he could of his poor belongings, but +I, being unable in the scramble and confusion to +get hold of the few rags composing my stock of +clothing, contented myself with carrying off an +old wide-awake hat containing five blind kittens. +The anxious mother kept me close company, much +to the amusement of the toiling darkies.</p> + +<p>All through the night the wind maintained a +most unusual force, and hour by hour the work +of salvage became increasingly difficult. Every +package had to be dived for into the blackness of +the hold, which was quite full of water up to the +hatch-coamings. Great torches of tarred rope, +lashed to conspicuous points, roared and flared in +the gale. By their uncertain glare the black toilers +darted hither and thither with astounding energy +and a deafening incessant tumult of wild +song. Every one was mother-naked, and their<span class="pagenum">[124]</span> +ebony skins shone like those of a school of gambolling +porpoises. At each tremendous lift and +heave of the doomed vessel all hands would make +a frantic rush to the side, leaping with blood-curdling +yells into the waiting droghers. But the instant +it was seen that she yet survived the shock, +back they all came and attacked the cargo with renewed +vigour. At last a bigger breaker than ever +came along, rearing its hoary crest against the +paling sky. Reaching the vessel, it enwrapped her +in masses of shining foam, lifting her at the same +time with such power that for half a minute she +seemed all afloat. As it receded, the ill-used hulk, +as if loth to leave its embrace, slid along the reef +with a rending crash, nor stopped until all that remained +visible of her was the jibboom, pointing +upward to the sky like a warning beacon. In the +whirl of weltering foam left by her sudden exit, the +droghers danced like mad things, all having been +cut adrift as the yelling crowd sprang from the +sinking ship. As nothing more could possibly be +done for the present, the little fleet made sail, and +stood in towards the town with their spoil. In +every conceivable and inconceivable position the +utterly wearied negroes lay about asleep, regardless +of the flying spray or such minor inconveniences +as being trampled upon by the crews. I +found a snug corner out of everybody's way, and +there, cuddling my cats, I, too, fell into sweet oblivion. +When I awoke, the vessel was just taking +the beach in front of the town. The sun was only +just rising, but all the population of Falmouth appeared +to be there, and intensely solicitous for +<span class="pagenum">[125]</span> +our welfare. We were immediately taken to the +"hotel," only a few hundred yards away, and all +manner of creature comforts pressed upon us with +kindly persistence, as if we had been adrift for a +month. Suddenly I realized that I was quite a +centre of attraction—the fact of my having rescued +the kittens appearing to appeal to all the visitors +in a way that I should hardly have believed +possible. But, indeed, our reception generally +was so kind that we were all in danger of being +spoiled. Within the memory of the oldest inhabitant +no wreck of such importance had occurred +near the port, and consequently, I suppose, we +reaped the benefit of long-suppressed benevolence.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_124" id="illo_124"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_146.jpg" alt="146" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">At each tremendous lift and heave of the doomed vessel all hands +would make a frantic rush to the side.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[126]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">ADVENTURES OF A SHIPWRECKED CREW.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> hotel to which we had been brought upon +our arrival was, although the only one in the place, +far too small to stand the strain of such an influx +of visitors as we were, as far as sleeping accommodation +went. Therefore arrangements were +made for our lodgment in an empty house in town, +while for all meals we were to return to the hotel. +To this sheltering place we were escorted by a delighted +band of darkies, who insisted upon carrying +such traps as we possessed, and also worked +like bees to sweep and cleanse the house. Such +bedding as we had was spread upon the floor in a +big front-room, and in Oriental fashion; with the +sailor's ready adaptability to circumstances, we +made ourselves comfortable. We had plenty of +company, for the whole coloured population made +holiday and visited us. Few came empty handed, +the majority bringing such gifts as they thought +would please us: mostly fruit, tobacco, and rum. +There was such abundance of the latter, that by +dinner-time there was a universal debauch, from +which I gladly escaped. Making my way down to +the beach I found the work of salvage in full swing, +for the hull of the ship had broken apart so much<span class="pagenum">[127]</span> +that the floatable cargo was coming ashore in +great quantities. Puncheons of rum, bundles of +walking-sticks, cakes of bees-wax and innumerable +cocoa-nuts were heaped in scattered piles upon the +beach, each of which was guarded by some one, +whose allies were either scouring the shores or +paddling furiously after some piece of flotsam apparently +worth pursuit. Everywhere I found +friends. Such a godsend as this had not fallen to +the lot of the dusky Falmouthians before, and they +were willing to recognise even the humblest member +of the crew as in some sense a benefactor. +When I got tired of roaming about the beach, I +sought the hotel for something more satisfying +than fruit, and was received by the host's buxom +daughter, Marian, with great delight. She had +taken charge of my hatful of kittens, and showed +me, with manifest pride, how comfortable the old +cat and her blind progeny had been made. Ungrateful +puss would hardly recognise me, her +changed circumstances had made her forget old +but humble friends.</p> + +<p>Noticing that I limped considerably, Marian +inquired anxiously whether I had cut my foot, +which made me smile, since, not having worn +boots for months, my natural soles were almost +as hard as tanned leather. But I admitted that +there was something hurting me a great deal, upon +which she peremptorily ordered me to sit down +while she had a look. A short search resulted in +her finding the place, which she proceeded to investigate +with a needle, and presently drew therefrom +a bag about as large as a marrowfat pea,<span class="pagenum">[128]</span> +which she opened, and showed me was full of tiny +eggs. "You'se had dem chigoes mighty bad, +chile," she said, "but I gwineter put stop to 'em +right now." With that she went and fetched a +tub of warm water. After bathing my feet thoroughly, +she searched most carefully for more of +these pests, finding two other nests, full like the +first, of eggs, but which had caused me only a +slight itching sensation. Having removed all she +could see, she made a vile compound of tobacco-ash +and kerosene, which she rubbed into the +wounds, causing me exquisite pain. It took all +my fortitude to keep from screaming, and I was +unable to prevent a few big tears dropping. With +many strange words of endearment she assured me +of her sympathy, but declared this heroic treatment +to be the only way of effecting a radical cure. +I have no doubt that she firmly believed in her +treatment, and I must admit that in the end it was +certainly effectual; but it was so harsh that I was +quite crippled for over a week. During this miserable +time I was a close prisoner in our empty +house, being generally alone during the day, while +through most of the night the drunken antics of +my shipmates kept me in constant terror. Nevertheless +there was some slight consolation, for by +some means it had got about that I could sing, +and I was sent for by the officers of the garrison to +warble some of my simple ditties for their amusement. +As I was unable to walk, the messengers +made a rude litter, upon which they carried me to +the hotel, where I was propped up in an armchair +while I sang. The generosity of the officers provided<span class="pagenum">[129]</span> +me with plenty of money, unfortunately of +no service to me, since I dared not refuse the constant +demands of my shipmates, who, of course, +had none of their own. I made two or three +friends among the better-class people in the town, +who gave me quite a respectable bag of half-worn +clothes, and also promised their aid in other directions.</p> + +<p>At last, after the lapse of three weeks, during +which time a perfunctory sort of inquiry into the +loss of the vessel was held, and the captain acquitted +of all blame, it was decided to send all the crew +round to Kingston, whence we might get shipped +home. A small schooner was chartered for this +purpose, as no steamers ran round the island; and +after considerable delay, provisions for three days +were put on board, and we set sail, doubtless much +to the relief of those worthies who had been +obliged to feed such a hungry horde as we were. +But, to our great disgust, we found at the first +meal-time that, in addition to the stock of food +being disgracefully small, it consisted solely of +ship-biscuit, yams, and salt beef of the worst sort. +If the kind providers of this outfit could have been +affected by the maledictions of our party, they certainly +would not have survived the first day of our +voyage; after that, the subject dropped from very +monotony. Calms and light airs prevailed, and +all faces began to lengthen when, on the evening +of the third day, the cook announced that the last +of the supply of food was before us for supper, +while our passage was only beginning. Luckily a +young shark was caught, making us a meagre<span class="pagenum">[Pg 130]</span> +breakfast. Then hunger stared us in the face. +We were at least fifteen miles off the land, with a +dead calm, and nothing but water left to supply +the needs of fourteen hungry men. No fish came +to our hooks, no vessels came near us, and, as there +was nothing whatever to occupy the men's minds, +the subject of food-supply was soon discussed +threadbare. Then, as often happens among crews +similarly situated, the possibility of there being a +Jonah among us was mooted, and called forth an +amazing variety of opinions and reminiscences. +Unhappily for me, the bo'sun was indiscreet +enough to let out the story of my behaviour at +the time of the vessel's striking on the reef. He +told it laughingly, referring, with a good deal of +satisfaction, to the swinging kick he had dealt me, +the bruise from which had not even then disappeared. +But the effect of his statement upon those +ignorant and frightened men was most strange and +significant. They accepted it without question as +positive proof: first, that all their misfortunes were +due to the presence of a Jonah among them, and, +secondly, that I was that Jonah!</p> + +<p>It may be found difficult of belief that, among +the crew of a London ship in the year 1871, such a +thing should have been possible; but I solemnly +declare it to be true that they at once decided that +unless I were cast overboard they would never +reach Kingston. I was immediately seized by +them and commanded to say my prayers quickly, +as I had only a few minutes to live. I looked at +those cruel, brutish faces and saw no gleam of pity; +I cried for mercy in incoherent terms while they<span class="pagenum">[Pg 131]</span> +only scowled. With trembling lips, and scarcely +beating heart, I tried to do as they told me—say +my prayers; but my senses were fast leaving me, +and I do not really know what I did say. Then +one of them tied my hands behind my back with a +bit of fishing-line; and this act first seemed to +awaken the three negroes, who were the crew of +the schooner, to the fact that murder was intended. +It almost drove them crazy with fear and horror. +Regardless of the odds against them, they rushed +to my rescue, only to be beaten back with the assurance +that little would make my tormenters +serve them the same. The bitterness of death was +almost past, when, to my unbounded amazement, +and renewing all my hopes of life, help came from +the most unexpected quarter. The bo'sun, who, I +do not think, had realized himself how far in earnest +they were until then, suddenly bestirred himself, +making one stride across the deck to where I lay, +hardly conscious. Oh, how god-like I thought +him! The scene returns to me across the chasm +of years as vividly as a photograph. His manly +figure, erect before my poor little shrinking body, +and the sweep of his strong right arm as he drove +those bloodthirsty pagans back, will never fade +from my mind. "That's enough now," he said, +"ye —— idiots. Did ye think I was goin' ter +let yer drown the kid? S'elp me, ef I thought +yer really meant it, damfi wouldn't drown two or +three of ye meself, ye yelpin' cowardly scum!" +For a short minute or so they faced him, their +eyes glaring with the lust of superstitious cruelty, +and then (it should be remembered that there were<span class="pagenum">[Pg 132]</span> +ten of them) they slank away, muttering blasphemies +between their clenched teeth. With a bitter +laugh of derision he stooped and cut my hands +adrift from the lashing, and then resumed his pipe +as if nothing extraordinary had happened. It +hardly needs saying that I cowered close to his +side, nor did I once get out of arm's length of him +during the remainder of that passage.</p> + +<p>Happily for us a breeze sprang up, sending the +schooner bustling along at a good rate into the +harbour of Savannah Le Mar, where we arrived +late that evening. By some means or other, which +I don't understand, considering our penniless condition, +a good supply of yams, salt fish, and water +was obtained, and we set sail again at about ten +p. m. by the light of the incandescent moon. Our +troubles were at an end for the time, the wind holding +strong and fair; so that in less than forty-eight +hours we were running in swiftly past Port Royal +and up to the wharves at Kingston.</p> + +<p>It probably had never occurred to any one of +us to doubt that when we arrived there it would +be all plain sailing for us. As shipwrecked seamen, +and in a British port, we naturally supposed +that all we needed to do was to march in a body +to the Sailors' Home, show our credentials, and be +received with the warmest of welcomes. And the +rest of our stay, until ships were found for us to +go home again in, would, of course, be one delightful +round of eating, drinking, and sleeping, +varied by such amusements as the place afforded. +Accordingly, every man shouldered his belongings, +and off we marched, guided by friendly darkies, +<span class="pagenum">[Pg 133]</span> +to the Sailors' Home, which we entered with +the air of proprietors. It was a fine, large building, +with a double row of verandahs and an air of +coolness and comfort extremely grateful to us +after our miserable trip in the schooner. We were +received with great courtesy, and shown to the +dormitory, which, with its rows of clean beds and +white mosquito-curtains, looked like fairyland. +We were told that breakfast would be ready in a +few minutes; so all hands had a good wash, hastening +down grubwards at the first stroke of the welcome +bell. There appeared to be scarcely any +other boarders; at any rate, there were none visible +then. Coffee and bread were brought, and +then a white man came, who introduced himself +as the superintendent. He called our attention +to the fact that there were three tariffs here, according +to the kind of food desired, and wished to +know which of them we would choose. The bo'sun +replied that, as we were the guests of our country, +we might as well have the best, and added +that, as we were somewhat sharp-set, the sooner +we got it the happier we should be. "Oh," said +the official; "if that's the case, I'm afraid I can't +take you in. I've had no orders; and our rule +here is payment in advance." Blank amazement +overspread every face, and half a dozen voices +volubly attempted to explain the situation. But +to all remarks, remonstrances, and objurgations, +the superintendent was adamant. He had no +doubt it was all true enough; but he had no instructions +on our behalf, and, until he had, we could +either pay or go. When asked who we ought to<span class="pagenum">[134]</span> +apply to, he was blandly ignorant; but it was increasingly +evident that he wanted us gone very +badly.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_133" id="illo_133"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_157.jpg" alt="157" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">For a short minute or so they faced him, their eyes glaring with the +lust of superstitious cruelty.</p> + +<p>Well, there was no help for it, and so, breakfastless +and dispirited, we started off again to the +town, intending to go to the shipping-office, as +the only place we could think of. In a foreign +port we should, of course, have gone to the consul +at once; but here, under our own flag, no one +knew what to do. Our escort of negroes grew +quite imposing as we trudged along, and the news +of our reception passed from mouth to mouth. +Floods of advice were poured upon us by our sable +friends, and offers of hospitality also without limit. +Indeed, had any of our crowd been orators, there +seemed to be all the materials necessary for a very +decent riot. But, peaceably enough, we reached +the shipping-office, where we asked humbly if we +might see his high-mightiness the shipping-master. +After keeping us waiting for nearly an hour, this +gentleman came out, and in bullying tones demanded +our business. Our spokesman, the bo'sun, +laid our hard case before him in a most respectful +manner; but before he had finished his +story the shipping-master cut him short, roughly +telling him that we had no business to come there +whining, and that he had nothing to do with us. +And with that he ordered us out of the office. Utterly +amazed and dispirited at this treatment, we +retired. Upon reaching the street we were surrounded +at once by the friendly darkies, who made +good their previous promises by carrying all hands +off to breakfast in their several huts, talking and<span class="pagenum">[135]</span> +gesticulating violently all the time. Fortunately I +remembered that I had a letter of introduction to +a gentleman in the town; so, refusing all offers of +hospitality, I hurried off to present it. I was not +very cordially received; but a note to the superintendent +of the Sailors' Home was at once given +me, which procured me instant admission to that +institution, with a right to the best entertainment +they could give.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the crew had formulated a plan of +campaign, romantic enough, but promising well. +It should be remembered that Port Royal, at the +entrance to Kingston Harbour is, or was, one of +our most important colonial naval stations. A +huge old line-of-battle ship, called the <i>Aboukir</i>, +was then the guard-ship, and lay moored opposite +the dockyard at Port Royal, several miles from +Kingston. A deputation of two, one of which was +the bo'sun, determined to board the guard-ship and +lay the case before the commodore, feeling, like all +British seamen abroad, that, although not to be +lightly approached, the captain of a British man-o'-war +could always be depended upon to see justice +done to any sailor, however humble. Accordingly, +they availed themselves of a friendly fisherman's +canoe, and immediately set out on their long +paddle down the bay to Port Royal. At the same +time the elderly Irishman before spoken of, volunteered +to tramp out to Spanish Town, the residence +of the Governor of Jamaica—a distance of +about ten miles, as nearly as I can remember. He +said he was well used to the road, having tramped +between nearly every seaport in England. And<span class="pagenum">[136]</span> +so, while the majority of the crew lay around in +the shade discussing the situation over and over +again with a deeply interested crowd of darkies, +male and female, the messenger fared forth. The +Port Royal deputation reached their goal first, +and, climbing up the steep side of the great guard-ship, +saluted, and asked to see the commodore. +They were promptly conducted aft before this officer, +who listened patiently to their yarn, and did +not interrupt them in its recital. When they +ceased speaking, he said, "Is that all, my men?" +"Yes, yer honour." "Then go forward and get +some food at once, and, when you have done so, +the second lieutenant will return with you. You +shall be cared for. Good morning." With a salute +they retreated, and, not being hungry, received +a tot of grog instead. Then, to their astonishment +and delight, they saw a natty little +steam-launch alongside, into which they were invited +to descend. A smart young lieutenant in +full uniform joined them, the white-clad crew +jumped in, and away they went back to Kingston. +Long before they arrived at the landing-place the +anxious watchers had descried them, and, when +they touched land, there was quite an excited +crowd ready to welcome them. Straight to the +shipping-office went the lieutenant, and at his brief +request the shipping-master was immediately +forthcoming. Without wasting a word the lieutenant +came to the point, demanding to know +whether his commanding officer had been rightly +informed by these men of the state of their case. +As the facts were undeniable there was little reply.<span class="pagenum">[137]</span> +Sternly, scornfully, the young officer reminded the +discomfited official of his obvious duty to British +seamen in distress, with an expression of wonder +at its being necessary for him to do so. "You +will be good enough to see all these men's wants +immediately attended to, and a passage home +found for them at the earliest possible opportunity. +The commodore trusts he will hear no more complaints +of a like nature." Then, turning on his +heel, the lieutenant bade our delighted fellows +good day, returning to his launch amid the cheers +of the darkies. A clerk was at once sent with the +men to the "Home" with instructions to the superintendent, +and the trouble was over.</p> + +<p>Not so those of the unfortunate shipping-master, +who must have been heartily sorry for his +foolish behaviour. For late in the afternoon our +other messenger returned in state from Spanish +Town in one of the governor's carriages, accompanied +by a secretary who bore a message from the +governor that made the shipping-master quake. +He could only return an abject apology, with an +assurance that the shipwrecked crew were now +well cared-for, and that nothing on his part should +be lacking for their comfort. But, though we +heard no more of the affair, I doubt very much +whether the shipping-master did. From the stir +the event made in Kingston, I am inclined to think +it was a long time before he was permitted to forget +it.</p> + +<p>For about a fortnight I had a rattling good +time in Kingston. Confident in the assurance +that I should not be forgotten whenever a chance<span class="pagenum">[138]</span> +presented itself of getting away, I cast all care to +the winds, and set about enjoying myself all I +knew how. Moonlight fishing-excursions in ramshackle +canoes to sheltered coves around the great +harbour, long rambles in the wonderful brakes and +jungles with darkies, that, though men in years, +were children in their fresh enjoyment of everything; +singing-parties along the beautiful beaches +in the silky evenings, and all with never a thought +of to-morrow—oh, it was heavenly! I scarcely +saw anything of my shipmates. I didn't want to. +My new associates, although black, were full of +kindliness, and as pleased with me as I was with +them; what wonder that I avoided, as far as I +could, any intercourse with men whose presence +only reminded me of miserable days better forgotten. +Out of the many incidents that are mellowed +by time into a haze of half recollection, one grotesque +affair stands out sharply, and even now +makes me quiver with laughter as its vivid details +reappear. A favourite pastime with the <i>élite</i> of the +coloured population was to gather in large numbers, +dressed in all their finery, upon an old disused +pier, whose crazy piles and beams actually swayed +with a stronger breeze than usual. Upon this ancient +structure, when the day's work was over, the +young men and women would frisk or loll about, +according to their humour; but their chief amusement +was the singing of chanties, camp-meeting +hymns, and, in fact, anything with a rousing chorus +in which all hands could join. On the night in +question, song had succeeded song until somebody +sent an electric thrill through the whole gathering<span class="pagenum">[139]</span> +by starting the negroes' great anthem of freedom, +"Marching through Georgia." You could hear +the pulses of that great crowd beat while they +waited breathlessly for the last word of the sonorous +verse; and then, in one tremendous burst of +melody, every one lifted up heart and voice, while +from far-away fishermen on the bay and labourers +on the hills the inspiring chorus rolled on. As +verse succeeded verse the enthusiasm rose to fever-heat; +every one sprang to their feet, waving their +arms and stamping in unison until the crazy structure +upon which they stood trembled to its +ancient foundations. It was a wonderful sight, +having its ludicrous side, doubtless; but the high +seriousness, and irrepressible energy of the actors, +prevented all desire to laugh. Suddenly, in the +height of the chorus, there was a rending crash, +and the entire fabric collapsed in one chaotic heap +of disjointed timbers and shrieking humanity into +the placid waters beneath. No one was hurt, for +the tide was high, and every darky swam like a +fish; but the scene of mad merriment on the +beach, as one draggled figure after another +emerged from the wreckage, was indescribable. +Not until long after midnight did the peals of +laughter entirely cease, for they rose again and +again in all quarters of the town, as the participants +rehearsed the scene to those who had not +been fortunate enough to witness it.</p> + +<p>I had begun to feel as if I had always lived +there, and the thought of leaving had quite disappeared +from my mind, when one day I received a +note from the gentleman to whom I had brought<span class="pagenum">[140]</span> +the letter of introduction, telling me to go on +board a large steamer, which had arrived at Kingston +that morning, as he had seen the captain, and +made arrangements for me to be allowed to work +my passage home.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[141]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">AN EVENTFUL PASSAGE HOME.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Now</span> that the time of my departure drew near, +the same old feeling of reluctance to leave a place +to which I had become accustomed came upon me +with its usual force. Possibly because I was never +very long in one place, I have always, except in +one instance, felt loth to begin wandering again; +and, even now, my mind often turns regretfully to +the many ports I have visited, and quite a painful +longing seizes me to see them all again. Therefore +I am afraid I did not feel nearly as grateful to +my friend as I ought to have done; but, fully realizing +how dangerous it was for me not to take advantage +of this offer, I made myself as presentable +as I could and hurried on board. The captain, a +big, burly gentleman in a smart uniform, received +me with a sharp glance, and dismissed me at once +with a curt "All right; go and tell the chief steward +I've sent you to him." I thanked him, and +left the presence, very much in awe of the gorgeous +surroundings and great size of everything, +so different to all my previous experience of shipboard. +She was a fairly large steamship for those +days, I suppose of nearly three thousand tons; but +to me she was vast beyond conception. When I<span class="pagenum">[142]</span> +entered the saloon, I felt utterly crushed beneath +the splendour of the place—oh, how small and +shabby it would look now, beside the floating palaces +of to-day!—and I hardly dared to tread upon +the thick carpet which was laid, the vessel being in +harbour. When I found the chief steward, he +cross-examined me pretty sharply as to my qualifications, +etc.; but, being short-handed, he was glad +of even such help as I could give, and promptly set +me to work. Now, for the first time, I became +acquainted with the toilsome routine of housemaid's +duties which have to be performed by the +steward's staff of a passenger steamer: endless +dish-washing, knife and silver-cleaning, floor-scrubbing, +and metal-polishing. And all the +work had to be done by a staff of four, exclusive +of my insignificant self; so that the chief steward +had no time to play the gentleman at large that he +so often appears where the manning is on a more +liberal scale. Indeed, but for the second steward—a +dapper Chinese, rejoicing in the most unappropriate +name of "Hadji"—I don't think we +could ever have kept things straight. But Hadji +was a host in himself. Never in a hurry, always +looking well-groomed and smart, the amount of +work that this wonderful little man got through in +a day was marvellous. Not more so, however, +than his history, of which one episode will suffice +as a sample. While working on board a large +steamer of this same employ lying in Colon, there +was a terrific explosion on board—whether of +gunpowder or nitro-glycerine I have forgotten. +Men, decks, fittings, were hurled skyward amidst<span class="pagenum">[143]</span> +a vast cloud of smoke, and the fragments fell in an +immense area, extending for hundreds of yards +around the unfortunate ship. When the first +alarm had subsided, the stewards of an adjacent +vessel returned to their tasks below, and found +Hadji on the saloon table, having crashed through +the skylight in his descent, but unhurt, and apparently +unaffrighted. It was not easy to imagine +what would disturb his smiling <i>sang-froid</i>. If in a +gale of wind a heavy sea found its way below, causing +the utmost hubbub and terror among the passengers, +whether by night or day, Hadji would +appear in the thick of the <i>mêlée</i>, calmly setting +everything and everybody to rights, his pleasant +smile most reassuring to behold.</p> + +<p>But, in my admiration for this invaluable Celestial, +I am forgetting current events. The day we +were to sail, I was much astonished to see all my +old shipmates march on board, having been sent by +the shipping-master for a passage to England in +his anxiety to avoid another interview with the offended +powers. They were passengers in the sense +that no work was expected of them; but they +lived and messed with the crew. However, as we +were at different ends of the ship, we did not come +in contact at all, for which I was grateful. Yet, +strangely enough, I got into my first and only +scrape on board through them. The waste of +food from the saloon table was very great; but my +instructions were to throw all broken meats into a +"dog-basket" at washing-up time, with all sorts +of dirty odds and ends, which basket was presently +emptied over the side. I managed to obtain a<span class="pagenum">[144]</span> +clean basket, into which I turned all such broken +victuals as I considered worth saving, and, watching +my opportunity, I carried this provender forward +to my shipmates, who I knew were getting +only the usual miserable fare. In this benevolent +work I was discovered by the chief steward, who +"clouted my ear," as he termed it, and threatened +me with all sorts of pains and penalties if I dared +to so offend again. So from thenceforth all the +good food not wanted aft went overboard as before.</p> + +<p>We were bound to Liverpool <i>via</i> Port-au-Prince, +in the island of Hayti, and, from a few +words let fall by the passengers, I gathered that it +was just possible we might see some "fun," as they +termed it. I did not then know that Hayti was +in the throes of a successful revolution against the +sovereignty of Spain and France, which eventually +resulted in the establishment of two republics in +the island; one-half calling itself the republic of +Hayti, the other that of St. Domingo. At that +time the long struggle must have been drawing +near its close, for on land the triumphant negroes +had things all their own way, while at sea the fleets +of France and Spain played at what they were +pleased to call a blockade. Whether any vessels +trading with Hayti paid any attention to the alleged +blockade, I do not know; certainly we did +not. Nothing at all in our proceedings would +have suggested to any one that we were making +for a blockaded port. Even when, as we steamed +briskly up the long V-shaped gulf, at the apex of +which Port-au-Prince lies, we sighted two grim<span class="pagenum">[145]</span>looking +war-ships lying at anchor on either side of +the fairway with steam up, no more notice was +taken of them than the usual curiosity evinced by +passengers at a strange sail. As we passed between +them we could see that one was French, the +other Spanish, by their ensigns flying. We rendered +the usual sea-courtesy of dipping our flag, +but of that no notice at all was taken by them. +Doubtless, as usual, they felt none too amicably +disposed towards the all-pervading <i>Anglais</i>. Right +onward we steamed into the harbour, and alongside +the Company's hulk, where such scant cargo +as could be collected awaited us. The only other +vessel lying there was a long, low steamer of perhaps +700 or 800 tons, whose raking, schooner-spars +and funnel, and the light grey-blue that +everything was painted, to say nothing of the miniature +stars and stripes that floated from her flag-staff, +spelt "Yankee filibuster" as plainly as if she +had been lettered with those words in characters +two feet wide. There was no sign of life on board +of her, except a mere suggestion of bluish smoke, +that curled slowly from her funnel, telling of +banked fires below. For some time she was an +object of the greatest interest to all on board, until +other matters occupied all our attention.</p> + +<p>The town was in a pitiable condition. What +with the long rebellion and civil broils, in addition +to the careless, happy-go-lucky fashion in which +the farce of government was carried on, whole +streets were in ruins; business was at a standstill, +and even the few merchants who still clung to the +remnants of their trade were in despair. It was<span class="pagenum">[146]</span> +no place for white men, anyhow. The negro was +master of the situation. He had fought long and +savagely for his independence, and now that he +had got it he was drunken with it as with brandy. +That careless white man who omitted, from any +cause, to salute in the humblest manner any functionary +of the Government of the hour, however +ludicrous in appearance, speedily found himself in +serious trouble, out of which he did not easily extricate +himself. And since new officials were constantly +emerging from the rag-tag and bob-tail, +the only wise course was to salute <i>every</i> black man, +no matter how menial his capacity might be. One +never knew whether the road-mender of to-day +might not be a general of division to-morrow, having +power of life and death even while wanting a +decent pair of trousers.</p> + +<p>A party of our fellows were allowed to go +ashore, by a serious error of judgment, and, as they +strolled carelessly along one of the principal thoroughfares, +they met a company of soldiers so scarecrow-like +that they simply stood and roared with +laughter. This had been crime enough, but the +sailor-men must needs aggravate their offence. +The officer in command, swelling with rage, demanded +their salute. Instead of complying they +indulged in some ribaldry, in which his get-up, as +well as that of his ragged regiment, was held up to +ridicule in effective fashion. This behaviour could +not be tolerated. They were surrounded, overpowered, +and dragged off to the "calabozo." +Then, when they saw what their folly had led them +into, they repented sorely. It had been worth<span class="pagenum">[147]</span> +any amount of "ko-tow" to have escaped from +such a fate as now befell them. The lock-up was +apparently an ancient cow-byre, standing like an +island in a lake of sewage, which, under that blazing +sun, sent up a steam of putridity into the +heavy air. Through this foul morass they were +dragged with every indignity their exulting captors +could devise, and there, more dead than alive, +they were left for twenty-four hours, when the +captain managed to overcome the stubborn attitude +of the sable authorities, and induce them to +accept a substantial fine. When they were released +and brought on board they looked like resuscitated +corpses, and every article of clothing +they wore had to be flung overboard. The doctor +examined them with gathering anxiety upon his +face, but his only comment was "The sooner we're +out of this hell-hole the better."</p> + +<p>Fortunately we were to sail in the morning, for +every one was feverishly anxious to be gone. That +evening a passenger embarked, who came alongside +in a canoe paddled by two negroes, bringing +with him several weighty chests. He was a well-dressed +black man, with an air of nervous anxiety; +and he hovered around, while his baggage was being +hoisted on board, as if he dared not trust it +out of his sight. When it was all safely embarked +and carried below, to a muttered accompaniment +of growls at its weight, the canoe and its sable +crew disappeared into the darkness, while the passenger +also hid himself, and rarely appeared thenceforward.</p> + +<p>At daybreak all hands were astir, the firemen<span class="pagenum">[148]</span> +working like sooty gnomes down in their gloomy +pit to get steam up, while dense volumes of smoke +poured from our funnels, gladdening the eyes of +all hands. Amidst the universal activity we yet +found time to notice that the thin coronal of vapour +hovering above the smoke-stack of the filibuster +was also getting more palpable, and the +knowing ones winked at each other meaningly. +At last a hissing from our steam-pipe betokened +full pressure in the boilers, the "old man" mounted +the bridge, and all hands took their stations. +"Cast off fore and aft!" shouted the skipper. +Willing hands released the heavy hawsers from the +bitts, and, with a rattle of steam-winches and +cheerful yells from the crew, we moved slowly +away from the hulk, the ensign and "house-flag" +being run up at the same time. Then, to our +breathless amazement, the filibuster, apparently of +her own accord, stole from her position and came +gently alongside, a tall, romantic-looking figure +mounting her bridge as she did so. So close did +she come that the figure on the bridge was able +to step nimbly on board of us. He was a spare, +elegantly-built man, dressed in a well-fitting suit of +grey silk, with an immense white Panama sombrero +on his head. He was strikingly handsome, +having a dark, oval face, with a heavy black moustache +and Velasquez beard, while his black, brilliant +eyes, wide set, seemed to take in everything +at a glance. Shaking hands cordially with our +captain, he said a few words inaudible on deck; +then the pair descended from the bridge, and, +joined by the mate, entered the chart-room. They<span class="pagenum">[149]</span> +remained there for a couple of minutes with the +door closed, and then, coming out again, the Yankee +leapt on board his own vessel, while our two +officers took their stations—the captain on the +bridge and the mate forward. Our engine-room +bell clanged the order, "Full speed ahead," and, +as the engines responded, our good ship vibrated +from stem to stern under their impulse. Without +any apparent effort the Yankee kept her place by +our side, not a soul visible on board, except the +tall figure lolling calmly on the bridge, meditatively +puffing at a big cigar.</p> + +<p>The decks being cleared, there was, for a brief +space, nothing to do; so all hands, including passengers, +crowded the rails, watching with breathless +interest the two war-ships which lay in grim +silence where they were when we entered the harbour. +Not a word was spoken, and the clanging +chorus of the massive machinery below seemed +many times louder than we had ever heard it before. +The scene was sufficiently impressive to fix +itself permanently in the memory of every one on +board. There was not a breath of wind, the water +of the widening gulf lying like another sky before +us, tinted in innumerable shades by the floating +clouds and the richly-coloured hills on either hand. +Every thrust of the pistons drove us nearer those +two surly sentinels laden with potential destruction, +which we all well knew might, at any moment, +be let loose upon us. But there was much +comfort in an occasional glance at the splendid old +red ensign flying gallantly overhead, for everybody +on board felt how much might and majesty it rep<span class="pagenum">[150]</span>resented. +Nearer and nearer we drew to the point +midway between the war-ships, that now began to +show a thickening cloud of smoke at their funnels, +and a white feather of escaping steam. At last we +were fairly between them. Suddenly the silent +Yankee alongside straightened himself, made us a +sweeping bow, and said, "A thousand thanks, captain. +Farewell, ladies and gentlemen, and a pleasant +passage. G'lang ahead!" At his word a +gong boomed below, and the lithe vessel sprang +forward like an unleashed greyhound, the pitchy +fumes from her funnel filling the clean air with the +stench of burning petroleum. Boom! boom! +went two big guns from the men-of-war as they +both started in chase, while from the filibuster's +masthead the flag dipped as if in ironical courtesy. +Many shots were fired after the daring craft; but +although the fountains cast up by the massive shot +apparently played all around her, none actually +reached her. And as she certainly steamed nearly +two knots to their one, she was soon hopelessly +out of range. Recognising this, they gave up the +chase. I suppose, according to the rules of romance, +they should now have intercepted us; but +this is fact, not fiction, and so it must be admitted +that they paid not the slightest attention to us, +but returned to their old position. Despite our +good rate of speed, in less than four hours there +was nothing visible of our <i>protégé</i> but a long grimy +streak in the bright blue sky.</p> + +<p>Under ordinary circumstances such an adventure +would have afforded an inexhaustible topic of +conversation during the remainder of the passage, +<span class="pagenum">[151]</span>but unhappily, a much more serious matter soon +claimed everybody's attention. Those truly awful +words, "Yellow fever," began to circulate in terrified +whispers, while the merry, genial doctor's face +looked terribly solemn. There was little suspense. +The very next day the first victim died—one of the +men who had spent the night in that unspeakably +filthy calabozo at Port-au-Prince. Ordinary prudence +forbade any delay in disposing of the poor +remains. In less than an hour after death came +the solemn little meeting, the bare-headed group at +the gangway, the long white bundle on a hatch at +an open port, the halting, diffident reading of the +old sublime Service, and then the hoarse s-s-s-s-h, +and the sullen plunge into unknown depths.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_151" id="illo_151"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_177.jpg" alt="177" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">Everybody on deck was terrified at the apparition of a mother-naked +giant, armed with the cook's axe.</p> + +<p>The destroyer made such strides that a large +tent had to be rigged over the main hatch as an +open-air hospital, and there the brave, unwearying +doctor laboured day and night at his hopeless task. +There was no discrimination, except as far as the +passengers were concerned—perhaps because they +were better seasoned to the climate. At any rate +none of them were attacked; but of the ship's +company, officers, engineers, firemen, sailors, and +stewards all gave tithe to death. The disease was +terribly swift in its operation. One Friday morning +our bo'sun's mate, a huge, hirsute Irishman, +suddenly complained of his head. This was at +eight a.m. At ten a.m. he was in the hospital +grinding his teeth in delirium. A few minutes +after everybody on deck was terrified at the apparition +of a mother-naked giant, armed with the +cook's axe, which he had snatched from beside the<span class="pagenum">[152]</span> +galley door, rushing madly about the decks. Not +many seconds elapsed before he was alone, striking +furiously at everything in his way, while the foam +flew from his gaping mouth. Having made the +round of the deck aft, he came to the weather side +of the wheel-house, within which the quarter-master +was calmly steering quite unconscious of what +was happening. Suddenly the maniac caught +sight of him through the side window, and immediately +rained a torrent of tremendous blows upon +the stout teak door. Poor Teddy fled out of the +lee door, and up into the main rigging just as Carney +burst in. Then all was quiet. After a while +some one was courageous enough to creep along +and peer in. There was Carney, lying at full +length on the grating, having fallen upon the upturned +edge of the axe, which had sunk deep +enough into his chest to have let out a dozen lives. +The place was like a slaughter-house. That afternoon +one reading of the Service sufficed for three +burials, two more men having died while the maniac +had possession of the deck.</p> + +<p>Naturally there was little levity on board. +Cooped up with such an awful scourge none felt +inclined for merriment. But the ordinary routine +of work went on without a hitch. My shipmates +were set to work on full wages to supply the places +of the dead, and, although they did not relish doing +firemen's duty, they were not sorry to have +the prospect of a little money when they reached +home, supposing they were still alive. My turn +came. One morning at five o'clock, when, as +usual, I was called to begin my day's work, I lifted<span class="pagenum">[153]</span> +my head to rise, but it fell again like a piece of lead. +A feeling of utter helplessness had seized my whole +body, although I could not say I felt ill. But not +even the awe in which I stood of the chief steward +could overcome my want of strength, and I humbly +said, "I'm not able to get up, sir." Instantly +alarmed, the steward fetched the doctor, who, after +feeling my pulse, etc., pulled me out of the bunk, +and set me on my trembling legs, telling the steward +to put me to some work that did not require +any running about, but on no account to allow me +to sit down. His orders were strictly obeyed, but +how I got through that dreadful day I cannot tell. +I felt as if I would gladly have given the whole +world to be allowed to lay down for a little while, +and several times my legs doubled up under me, +letting me sink in a heap on the pantry deck, but +there was no respite allowed me. This stern treatment +was completely successful, for by supper-time +I felt quite strong again, and I was troubled +no more by any recurrence of those alarming symptoms. +What was the matter with me, I never +knew; but undoubtedly I owed my life to the doctor's +wisdom, much as I hated his treatment at the +time. Day after day dragged on, each bringing +with it a death for some one of our diminishing +number, while the doctor, worn almost to a shadow, +still battled with the enemy with unabated +vigour. His chief task was with those who had +won through the crisis, to nurse them back to +strength again. Beef-tea with brandy was his +sheet anchor, and this potent reviver he was continually +administering in tiny doses, while com<span class="pagenum">[154]</span>menting +cheerily on its marvellous virtues, to his +wasted patients. Then, as if to fill up our cup of +misfortunes, the engines suddenly stopped. The +boilers were old—in fact, too old for safe use—and +one of them had sprung a dangerous leak. The +engineers attacked the trouble with that stolid +heroism for which their class is famous, although, +from its prosaic nature, little is thought or said +about it by a world that loves its heroes to glitter +with pomp and circumstance, and to do their great +deeds upon some conspicuous stage. Down beneath +the boilers, where the narrow limits compelled +them to lie at full length, half roasted by the +fierce heat, and scalded from head to heel by the +spurtings of boiling water, they laboured with +hardly a pause for a day and a night. They succeeded +in the almost incredible task of patching up +the leaky source of our speed, doing moreover their +work so well that, although our rate of going was +greatly reduced, the repairs held good until we +reached port.</p> + +<p>The joyful day arrived at last when the faithful +doctor was able to announce that the yellow fever +had left us, and that, unless some of the convalescents +died of weakness, there would be no more +deaths from that scourge. It was high time. In +the short period of twenty days we had buried +thirty men, every one of whose deaths was distinctly +traceable to that foul den in Port-au-Prince. +Happily the weather held fine, and the +wind held to the south-west, so that we were able +to help her along with the sails, until one morning +a thrill of delight ran through the ship at the sight<span class="pagenum">[155]</span> +of green water alongside, sure sign of our nearness +to the Channel. Presently that solitary sentinel, +the Fastnet, hove in sight, and soon behind it we +saw the green hills of Ireland. All our miseries +were now forgotten, and there was a general air of +joyful expectation mixed with deep thankfulness +that we had been spared. That afternoon our +negro passenger, whom we had hardly seen during +the passage, made his appearance on deck. He +was evidently seeking the captain, for, as soon as +he caught sight of him, he hastened towards him +and the two went straight into the captain's state-room. +From thence there soon issued strange +noises as of a foreigner under strong excitement, +while now and then the deep tones of the skipper +chimed in as if he were speaking soothingly. Suddenly +the door was flung open and the captain +called for the mate. That officer responded +promptly, but did not succeed in hushing the din. +On the contrary, the shrill voice of the black man +rose higher than ever, until he was fairly yelling +with fury. The mate blew his whistle, and, when +the bo'sun appeared in answer to it, he received an +order to bring the carpenter with a pair of irons +and three or four men. The reinforcements manhandled +the excited negro, hauling him with scant +ceremony on deck, and bundling him forward into +an empty cabin, wherein they locked him and left +him to his own reflections. This mysterious affair +caused much excitement among both passengers +and crew, but it was not until after the vessel had +been in dock some days that any explanation was +forthcoming. It appeared that, according to <i>his</i><span class="pagenum">[156]</span> +story, the negro had been First Lord of the Treasury, +or whatever grandiloquent title they had bestowed +upon their keeper of the funds, and, seizing +a favourable opportunity, he had levanted with +quite a large sum (he said $100,000). Getting +safely on board he had committed his loot to the +care of the captain and mate, who, however, most +unaccountably forgot all about it when he claimed +it coming up Channel. Finding that he could by +no means recall it to their memories, he went temporarily +mad—insane enough, at any rate, to institute +proceedings against them for its recovery. +His story, which I have given above (with the exception +of the way in which he obtained his +wealth), was simply laughed at, and he was fain to +revert to his original profession of scullion or some +such occupation.</p> + +<p>The passage up Channel was uneventful. The +hateful yellow flag (quarantine) was hoisted as we +entered the Mersey; but, as soon as the Health +Officer boarded us, we learned that there would be +no delay in docking, yellow fever being innocuous +in our favoured land. So the dock gates swung +wide and we passed in to our berth, the vessel being +in two hours deserted by everybody except the +night watchman and me.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[157]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">ADRIFT IN LIVERPOOL ONCE MORE.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">That</span> night I slept soundly, heedless of to-morrow; +but when the day dawned the problem of +what I was to do confronted me, and a very awkward +question it was. For I was still so puny in +size and so delicate-looking that I knew it would +be no easy matter to persuade any one to employ +me. Besides, I was penniless. I had little clothes +but what I was wearing, and I felt sure no boarding-master +would take me in on the chance of my +paying him out of my advance-note here. My +only hope was that I might be allowed to work +by the ship, at a small weekly wage, until I had +earned enough to pay for a week's board, either in +the Sailors' Home or some boarding-house where +they would try and get me a ship. That hope was +soon dashed when the chief steward appeared. +With unnecessary gruffness, as I thought, he told +me that I was not wanted, and the sooner I got +ashore "out of it" the better. Hadji was kinder. +He gave me a cheerful smile, a hearty shake of the +hand, and half a crown, besides wishing me luck. +In a few minutes I stood outside the dock gates +with all the town before me, but not a friend or +even an acquaintance, as far as I knew, within its<span class="pagenum">[158]</span> +limits. Conscious that I had no time to lose, I +wandered about the docks until I was weary, +speaking to every likely looking officer on board +the various ships I visited, and getting nothing but +plenty of good-natured chaff as well as outspoken +comments upon my childish appearance. Yes, I +got one good meal; so that when night fell, and I +sought a great heap of hay in the Cobourg Dock +that I had noted as a promising place to spend the +night, my precious piece of silver was still unbroken. +I slept soundly, though none too warm, +my long stay in the tropics having thinned my +blood. At daylight I crept stealthily from my nest +and recommenced my tramp, but it was fruitless. +Then I remembered the wood-carver, and thought +I would look him up again. But there was another +name over the shop, and I saw that another +business was being carried on there. I did not +like to go into my old boarding-house next door, +feeling sure that I should be unwelcome with only +two shillings and sixpence in my pocket and no +prospects. I went to the Sailors' Home and told +my story, but they refused to take me in—as indeed +I had fully expected they would.</p> + +<p>For the next week I roamed about those +wretched docks, getting more and more discouraged +every day, until, at last, I was afraid to ask +for a berth in case I got a cuff as well as a refusal. +Finally, when I had been reduced to picking scraps +out of the gutter, I resolved to go to the workhouse. +How such an idea entered my head I can't +imagine, but it did, and seemed feasible too. So +off I started up Brownlow Hill, but the strains of<span class="pagenum">[159]</span> +a German band arrested my none too eager progress, +and, all hungry as I was, I stayed to listen. +Perhaps the music cheered me up; at any rate, +while listening, I determined to go to my old +boarding-mistress and offer my services to her in +return for a shelter and such scraps as she could +spare. She received me ungraciously enough; +but I pleaded hard, having learned well the hard +lesson of not to take "no" for an answer without +a struggle, and eventually she agreed. The place +was a poor kind of cookshop, the staples of which +were penny bowls of broth and tea for the poverty-stricken +dock labourers, with twopenny plates of +potato-pie for the better-off. I honestly earned +my keep, and more; but business getting slack, +she told me plainly that she could not afford to +keep me much longer, and she would allow me a +couple of hours a day for a week to look for a ship, +at the end of which time I must shift for myself +again. I was not altogether sorry at this chance, +slender though it was. Every day I hunted diligently +about during the time allotted me, and, +after four days, I succeeded in getting a job as +cabin-boy on board a German barque, the <i>Greif</i> of +Rostock. The captain had his wife and little +daughter on board, neither of whom spoke a word +of English; but the captain said he had just discharged +an English boy, who had pleased them +very well, and whose name of "Dan" I was in future +to answer to. I took up my new duties with +zest, doing my best, not only to give satisfaction +in my work, but to master the (to me) awful difficulties +of the German language. For a time I<span class="pagenum">[160]</span> +succeeded admirably, except that the ladies called +me "schoufskopf" (sheep's-head) far more frequently +than Dan, being irritated, I suppose, by +what they considered my stupidity in not being +able to understand them. The only person on +board who seemed inclined to be hard upon me was +the mate, a huge North German, who never missed +an opportunity of giving me a blow, apparently by +way of keeping his hand in. Therefore, I exercised +all the ingenuity I possessed in keeping out +of his way—no easy task—for, as soon as my work +in the cabin was finished, I was always called on +deck to lend such a hand as I was able. And I +could not help noticing that, in spite of the difficulty +I had always found in getting a berth, whenever +I did succeed in finding one there was never +any trouble in keeping me fully employed. So +matters progressed in fairly even fashion for three +weeks, while the <i>Greif</i>, which lay in the Huskisson +Dock, was taking in a general cargo for Demerara. +I made fair progress with the language, and was +certainly something of a favourite with the bo'sun, +the cook, and the sailors. I began to hope that I +should succeed at last in making myself comfortable, +as well as necessary, in some way, to the comfort +of others; and only my dread of the mate gave +me any uneasiness. But one morning the cook +took advantage of some brief leisure I had to get +me to chop some firewood for him. Gaily I +started to obey him, using one large piece for a +block, and was halfway through my task, when +the axe struck a knot, glanced off, and entered the +deck, making an ugly mark. The next moment I<span class="pagenum">[161]</span> +received a blow under the ear from behind which +stretched me bleeding and senseless on the deck. +When I came to I felt very sick; but there was +such an uproar around me that I speedily forgot +my own trouble in my anxiety to know what was +the matter. The mate stood, white as chalk, the +centre of an angry little crowd of the men, one of +whom, a tall, fair Swede, was fairly raving with excitement, +and seemed by his threatening motions +to be hard put to it to keep his hands to himself. +Gradually it dawned upon me that all this row was +about me. The mate had struck me brutally and +unjustly for what was a pure accident, and his +cruelty had actually caused the whole crew to resent +his action. This was really one of the strangest +experiences I ever had. I have been beaten +innumerable times in all sorts of vessels, but only +once was a voice ever raised on my behalf besides +this occasion, and that was by Joe, the Yorkshireman, +against my uncle in my first ship. That a +mixed crew of Germans and Scandinavians, on +board a German vessel, should raise a protest +against the ill-treatment of an English boy, was an +unheard-of thing, especially when it is remembered +that in those days brutality to boys at sea, except +in American ships, was the almost invariable rule.</p> + +<p>I was more frightened at the consequences of +the mate's action than anything else, especially as +it looked as if there would be a regular riot directly. +Before, however, any blows were exchanged, +the captain arrived. His presence acted like +magic. He made no noise, but just pushed his +way into the centre of the disturbance, speaking<span class="pagenum">[162]</span> +quietly to the men, who at once dispersed to their +several duties. Then he turned to me, and said, +in the same passionless voice, "Ashore mit you. +If I findt you hier in den minutes more, I schlings +you oferbordt." I did not linger. In less than +five minutes I was out of the ship, and again in the +unenviable position of being masterless. There +was a change in my hitherto persistent bad luck, +however. Strolling dejectedly round the dock, I +came to the very biggest sailing-ship I had ever +yet seen. When I had done admiring her enormous +proportions, my attention was caught by a +new spar, which lay upon the quay nearly ready for +going aloft. I walked round it wondering, with +all my might, whatever kind of mast it could be. +At last I stopped, and, according to a lifelong habit +of mine, began thinking aloud. "T'aint a +schooner's topmast, 'cause there's three sheave-holes +in it; nor yet a barque's mizzen-topmast, for +the same reason. N'ther ain't a ship afloat as 'ud +carry sech a stick fur a to'-gallanm'st, nor yet fur +a jibboom. <i>I</i> never see sech a spar 'n <i>my</i> life." +"You give it up, then, I suppose?" said a grave +voice behind me. Turning sharp round I confronted +a tall, distinguished-looking gentleman, +who was regarding me with an amused smile. +"Yes, sir," I said, "I thought I knew all about +ships' masts; but I can't think what this one can +be for." "Well," he replied, "I'll enlighten you. +It's my ship's foreto'-gallanmast, and that third +sheavehole that puzzled you so much is for the +skys'le-halliards. Now do you see?" I thanked +him and said I did; but I was none the less sur<span class="pagenum">[163]</span>prised +that any ship could carry such a mighty spar +so high up. And then, by a happy inspiration, I +told him my story, right down to the last episode. +He heard me in silence, and, as soon as I had finished, +turned and went on board, telling me to +follow him. Gladly enough I obeyed, until we +reached the quarter-deck, where we found the +shipkeeper. Telling him to find me something to +do, the captain then turned to me, saying, "I +shan't be able to take you to sea with me, for all +our gear is so heavy that we never carry any boys; +but while the ship is in Liverpool you may stay on +board doing what you can, and I will pay you +twelve shillings a week, out of which you must +keep yourself. Now, be a good boy, and I'll see +what I can do for you when we sail." I was hard +put to it to express my gratitude; but he cut me +short by walking away, and leaving me to realize +my extraordinary good fortune. As soon as he +was gone, I hunted up the shipkeeper, who had +taken himself off somewhere, and asked him for +a job. He was an easy-going individual, not over +fond of work himself, or given to expecting much +from any one else. So he said, "Oh, I can't be +bothered just now. You scull round a bit 'n have +a look at the ship, 'n I'll fine yer sutthin to do +bimeby." That was good enough for me. For +the next two or three hours I exhausted all my +powers of admiration over this magnificent vessel. +She was called the <i>Jorawur</i> of London, and built +frigate-fashion, with imitation quarter galleries, +which added to her already great appearance of +size. She belonged to a school that has now de<span class="pagenum">[164]</span>parted, +whereof the <i>Superb</i>, <i>Calcutta</i>, <i>Lady Jocelyn</i>, +and <i>Hydaspes</i> (the last two converted steamships), +were conspicuous examples. She carried thirty-two +A.B.'s and six petty officers, so that she was +well manned, even taking her great size and enormous +spars into account. But alas! years after, +I saw her bought by a firm of Jewish ship-knackers, +who razeéd her taunt spars, sold the yards off +her mizzenmast, turning her into a barque, and +finally sent her to sea with <i>seven</i> A.B.'s forrard. +No one was surprised when she took entire charge +of the poor handful of men before she got clear of +the Channel. God help them! they could hardly +get her yards round, much less shorten sail. She +was eventually picked up, almost derelict, and +towed into Falmouth, where the ill-used crew +promptly refused to do any more in her, and were, +of course, clapped in gaol therefor, with that +steady application of the rights of owners so characteristic +of our seaport magistrates. But this is +digression.</p> + +<p>"Knock-off" time came, and with it the exodus +of all the motley crowd of riggers, painters, +and stevedores who had been busy about the ship +all day. Seeing them depart homewards I remembered, +with some misgivings, that I too could +only be considered a day-worker, and might also +be required to clear out, but whither? So I sought +the shipkeeper, and timidly approached the question +whether I might be allowed to stay on board. +I found him very glad to have some one who +would relieve him of the necessity of keeping so +close to the ship as he had been doing. He at<span class="pagenum">[165]</span> +once gave me the free run of the cabin, and hastened +to "clean himself" preparatory to a cruise +down town. I busied myself in hunting up such +odds and ends as lay about the staterooms available +for bedding, and before long had rigged myself +quite a cosy nook, near the glowing stove, +which, as the weather was cold, was very comforting. +My friend having departed, I was left quite +alone on board the huge vessel; but this, so far +from giving me any uneasiness, was just in my line—I +was more than contented. I found the keys +of the pantry and store-room, where my eager +search soon discovered plenty of cuddy bread +(biscuits), half a chest of tea, sugar, oatmeal, sago, +and arrowroot. There was nothing else eatable +or drinkable. This find, however, gave me great +delight. I felt no apprehensions now that I +should have to spend much in food—a fear which +had somewhat daunted me before, seeing how badly +I wanted to save all my wages to get myself a +few clothes and pay for a week's board in the Sailors' +Home when the <i>Jorawur</i> sailed. Another expedition +to the galley provided me with a saucepan, +with which I at once proceeded to make myself +a mighty bowl of arrowroot, thinking, in my +ignorance, that not only was it very nice to eat, +but that it must be most strengthening as well. +How could I know that it was only starch? A +couple of biscuits and the half-gallon of arrowroot +(plenty of sugar in it) made me feel at peace with +all the world, if even I was in rather an inflated condition. +Fed and warmed, with a good roof over +my head, and a fairly comfortable bed (if it <i>was</i><span class="pagenum">[166]</span> +composed of rags), I only wanted one thing more +to be perfectly happy. And even that was forthcoming—a +book. "Bleak House" lay in one of +the pantry drawers waiting for me, I felt. Putting +the lamp handy and replenishing the fire, I settled +down luxuriously into my nest, all my troubles forgotten +in present bliss.</p> + +<p>When the shipkeeper came on board I don't +know, for when I awoke it was morning—five +o'clock. I jumped up, hustled my bed out of sight, +and lit the fire. While it was burning up I went on +deck for a wash, returning sharp-set to a good +breakfast of tea and biscuit, after which I felt ready +for anything that might come along. By the look +of the shipkeeper when at last he appeared, his last +night's excursion had been anywhere but in the +paths of virtue. But his amiability was unimpaired, +and it was in quite a deprecatory tone that +he requested me to "pop across the road" and get +him a drop of rum, as he didn't feel very well. +Whether it was my alacrity in obeying his request, +or the speed with which I afterwards got him a +cup of tea, I don't know, but thenceforth our relations +were of the pleasantest kind. I wished, +though, that he hadn't found me quite such a miserably +cold job; for that forenoon he set me to +clean out the row of 400-gallon tanks in which the +sea-stock of fresh water was carried, my slender +body being easily able to slip in through the "man-hole"—a +feat that was really impossible to him. +Now, some of these tanks had over eighteen inches +of water in them: all had enough to come well +above my ankles. As it was late autumn I got<span class="pagenum">[167]</span> +chilled to the marrow, for, as I must needs bale all +the water into buckets and pass it up to him +through the man-hole, I soon got wet through. +Then I had to scrub and sluice vigorously to get +the thick coating of rust off, in which process I became +very much like a piece of rusty old iron myself. +As each tank was thoroughly cleansed, a pail +of limewash was handed in to me with a big brush, +and I gave top, bottom, and sides a liberal coating +of it. In consequence of this occupation my appearance +was filthy beyond words; but I did not +mind that, until, one day, having come on deck for +something, I met the captain. Looking at me +with an expression of the liveliest disgust, he said, +"Dirty little beast!" This cut me to the quick, as +being both unkind as well as utterly undeserved. +However, I made no defence. One of the earliest +lessons inculcated on board ship is "no back answers," +and the boy of gumption loses no time in +understanding that the less he says, by way of +excuse, the better for his welfare. Much injustice +is thus suffered, of course, but there is apparently +no help for it. From that day forward I carefully +avoided the captain, lest he should discharge me—a +fate which I dreaded.</p> + +<p>The peculiar diet beginning to pall, even upon +my palate, I hit upon a plan which, however indefensible +morally, gave me then no qualms, while +the results were extremely gratifying. The gang +of painters who were re-decorating the cabin +brought their meals with them, and I supplied +them with tea out of the half-chest in the storeroom, +receiving in return a portion of their food.<span class="pagenum">[168]</span> +By this means I still kept my wages intact. The +only money I spent while on board was on one unlucky +Saturday. Fired by the description of a +savoury dumpling, filled with bacon and kidney, +which I read in the late steward's cookery book, +I slipped ashore and bought the necessary ingredients. +On Sunday morning I tried my hand, and, +having succeeded in making the dumpling, +dropped it clothless into a saucepan of boiling +water, made up a roaring fire under, and hungrily +awaited the result. Rigidly repressing an eager +desire to peep into the pot, I watched the clock +until the specified time had elapsed. Then, my +fingers trembling with excitement, I lifted the lid +and peered through the dense steam. A greyish +soup with a villainous burnt smell greeted my +sight; my dumpling had melted. Crying with +vexation and disappointment, I turned the mess +out into a dish, but I couldn't eat it. It was too +bad even for me. So I fell back upon sago, and +made no more experiments in cookery.</p> + +<p>The inevitable day drew near when the ship was +to sail. Her cargo of salt (for Calcutta) was nearly +all in, the riggers had bent the sails, and a smart +steward took charge of the cabin, ejecting me summarily. +I took refuge in the forecastle that night, +and the next morning, having made myself as presentable +as I could (I <i>was</i> a queer-looking little +scarecrow), I waylaid the captain and besought +him to ship me for the voyage. Giving me a half-laughing, +half-pitying look, he said, "No, my boy, +there is no duty here light enough for you; I cannot +take you to sea with me. But I will take you<span class="pagenum">[169]</span> +up to the Home, and tell them to get you a ship. +You shan't have to prowl the docks again if I can +help it." I thanked him, but ventured to say that +I should have liked much better to sail in such a +splendid ship as the <i>Jorawur</i>. He seemed pleased, +but shook his head decidedly, and in a few minutes +we were ashore, making for the Sailors' Home. +Arriving at the great building, the captain immediately +made for the office, and sought an interview +with the superintendent. As soon as that +gentleman appeared I was brought forward, and +introduced to him, with a brief summary of my +adventures and present position. My good friend +the captain concluded his remarks by paying down +a fortnight's board for me, at the same time expressing +a hope that they would find me a berth as +speedily as possible in some outward-bound ship, +so that I should for some time at least be beyond +the reach of homeless destitution. The superintendent +readily promised his aid, and, bidding me +good-bye, the kindly captain returned to his duties, +happier, I hope, for the knowledge that he +had done me a really good turn, for which it was +highly improbable I could ever repay him.</p> + +<p>I was at once handed over to the care of one of +the stewards, who led the way up a seemingly interminable +series of staircases to a cubicle on the +fourth floor. The place was built in tiers of galleries, +running right round a large central space +lighted from above, and paved at the bottom. +This covered-in quadrangle was used as a promenade, +smoking-room, and lounge by the inmates, +while it was, of course, possible to take in a com<span class="pagenum">[170]</span>plete +view of the whole interior from any one of +the seven galleries. Before we arrived at my +berth, the steward was in possession of most of +my story, and began to regard me with more +friendly interest than I looked for, seeing that no +"tip" was to be expected from me. He seemed +surprised when, in answer to his inquiry for my +"dunnage," I told him I had none but what I +stood in; and at once promised that he would see +what he could do by way of beating up a few duds +for me—a promise he faithfully kept. Then he +ushered me into the snug little chamber, with its +clean bed and handy lockers, and, giving me a key +of it, left me to my own devices.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[171]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">THE DAWN OF BETTER DAYS.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> last I felt as if I was standing on firm +ground. Here, a solvent boarder in this great institution, +with thirty-six shillings in my pocket, +of which no one knew but myself, and with the +superintendent pledged to get me a ship, there did +seem a prospect that the days of my waifhood were +over and done with. I looked around me at the +comfort and cleanliness of my little room, I +thought of the precarious existence I had been suffering, +and I felt very thankful. Outside my door +was a row of big basins, well furnished with soap, +jack towels, and abundance of water. Off went my +clothes, and I fairly revelled in a good wash. I +had barely finished when the clangour of a great +gong startled me. I rushed to the railings, and +looked over to see a general move of the inmates +from all quarters towards one goal. Instinct informed +me that this strange noise was a summons +for dinner; so I hastened to join the throng, and +presently found myself in an immense dining-hall +filled with long tables, at which a steady stream of +men were seating themselves. At one of these +tables I took my place, in joyful anticipation of a +good dinner, when suddenly a sharp "Hi!" from<span class="pagenum">[172]</span> +the head of the board arrested my attention. It +was the steward in charge, who stood waiting to +serve out the food. He had spied a stranger. As +soon as he caught my eye, he said, "What flat are +you on?" Now the barges in Liverpool are +known as "flats," and, jumping at the conclusion +that I was suspected of being a bargee-boy, I replied +with much heat, "I'm not on any flat; I've +just left a two-thousand-ton ship!" Surely never +did a more feeble unintentional joke meet with a +warmer reception. My neighbours roared with +delight, and, as the words were repeated from table +to table, very soon the whole vast chamber reverberated +with merriment. Utterly bewildered, I +sat speechless, until it was explained to me that +the galleries in the Home were called "flats" too. +They were lettered for convenience of distinction, +and the steward's query was in order to assure himself +that I occupied a room on the flat under his +charge, as, otherwise, I had no right at his table. +That little matter was soon cleared up, and feasting +began. Never in my life had I sat at such a +board. Every one ate like giants, and mountains +of food vanished, washed down by huge cans of ale, +served out liberally by the attendants. I am +ashamed to remember how I ate; but the blissful +thought that this sort of thing would be a regular +incident of each day heightened my enjoyment. +The meal over, diners wandered forth again in very +different style to their entrance of half an hour +before. Hardly knowing whither I went, I sauntered +along one of the galleries, when suddenly the +words, "To the Library," caught my eye. No<span class="pagenum">[173]</span> +longer undecided, I hurried in the direction indicated, +and found a really fine room, most comfortably +furnished, with roaring fires and an enormous +number of books. There were only three people +in it; indeed, it was never well patronized. I +found a volume of Captain Cook's Travels, coiled +myself up in a big armchair, and passed at once into +another world. Thenceforth, during my stay, +that peaceful chamber was my home. Except for +a little exercise, sleep, and meals, I scarcely left it, +and, long ago though it is, I can vividly remember +how entirely happy I was. Occasionally I heard, +through the mighty void that separated me from +the outer world, a ringing shout of, "Where's that +shipwrecked boy? Anybody seen that shipwrecked +boy?" as the huge doorkeeper, standing +in the centre of the quadrangle below, bellowed for +me. The said shipwrecked urchin was far too +comfortable to desire any change in his present +circumstances, and, it must be confessed, did nothing +to assist the authorities in their efforts to get +him a ship. To tell the truth, whenever I must +needs go out, I used to watch my opportunity and +evade the officials downstairs. I had tasted the +sweets of life and was loth to return to the bitter.</p> + +<p>During my seclusion in the library, however, I +made the acquaintance of several officers of ships, +through whose kindness I obtained quite a respectable +lot of clothes, so that I was able to reserve +my precious little hoard to purchase sea-stock +with when the inevitable day came. But, in +the meantime, I saw as little of Liverpool as I possibly +could. Apart from my love of the library and<span class="pagenum">[174]</span> +its contents, the town was hateful to me. Its +streets seemed to scowl at me, and every turning +reminded me of misery. But one day, as I was +darting across the quadrangle on my return from +some errand, a long arm shot out from behind a +pillar and grabbed me. Panting with my run, I +looked up and saw the form of the doorkeeper towering +over me. "Why, where ha' you been +stowed away all this time, you young rascal?" he +said. "Here have I ben shoutin' myself hoarse +after you, an' never a sight of yer could I get. +Come along!" And with that he marched me off +to the shipping-office in the same building, and +handed me over to one of the clerks, who immediately +brought me before a jolly-looking captain +who was just engaging his crew. What he said I +don't remember; but, in a few minutes, I had +signed articles as boy at twenty-five shillings per +month on board the <i>Western Belle</i> of Greenock, +bound to Bombay, and sailing two days after, at +eight in the morning, from the Alfred Dock, Seacombe. +I received a month's advance like the +rest, half of which I had to pay for a week's board, +as I had been three weeks in the Home. But +with my well-kept little hoard I had sufficient to +buy my oilskins, bed, hookpot, pannikin and plate, +soap, matches, knife, etc., so that I was better off, +in those respects, than I had ever been before.</p> + +<p>Early on the morning of the appointed day, in +company with several others of the crew who had +been lodging at the Home, I was escorted across +the Mersey by the official belonging to the institution, +whose business it was to see us safe on<span class="pagenum">[175]</span> +board. Like all my companions, I had not the +slightest idea what sort of a craft I was going in, +except that she was a ship of 1225 tons register. +This, however, is one of the most common experiences +of the sailor. Of late years it has become +more the practice for men to cruise round and +choose a ship, handing their discharges to the mate +as a sort of guarantee that they will be shipped +when she signs articles. But, even now, thousands +of men take a leap in the dark, often finding +themselves in for a most unpleasant experience, +which a little forethought on their part would have +saved them. When forethought is a characteristic +of the sailor, his lot will rapidly amend. That, +however, is almost too much to hope for.</p> + +<p>We soon arrived at our ship's side, finding her +to be an old American-built soft-wood ship, fairly +comfortable looking, and with a house on deck +for the crew instead of the villainous den beneath +the top-gallant-forecastle, far in the fore-part of +the ship, which is the lair of seamen in most English +ships. I was told off to the petty officers' +quarters, or "half deck," a fair-sized apartment in +the after part of the forward deck-house, with +bunks for eight, and separated from the men's +berth by the galley and carpenter's shop. There +was no time to take stock. She was moving, all +hands being on board, and, for a wonder, not so +drunk as usual. She was rapidly warped down to +the dock gates, where one of the powerful tugs, +for which Liverpool has long been justly famous, +awaited her—the <i>Constitution</i>. The hawser was +passed and secured, the ropes which held us to the<span class="pagenum">[176]</span> +pier cast off, and away we went down the river at +a great rate—our voyage was begun. Much to +the discomfiture of our fellows a large ship, the +<i>Stornoway</i>, came rushing past us, bound into dock, +having just finished the long round we were beginning. +The sight of a "homeward bounder" is +always a depressing one for Jack who is just starting +again. And it is usually made harder for him +by the jocular remarks of the fortunate crew, who +shout of "bright pots and pannikins and clean +donkey's breakfasts" (straw beds), usually throwing +some of their rusty tinware overboard, at the +same time, to give point to their unkind remarks.</p> + +<p>There was little time though for thought, despondent +or otherwise. We were rapidly nearing +the bar, upon which the rising wind was making a +heavy sea get up, and our jibboom had to be rigged +out. What this means is, I am afraid, impossible +to make clear to a landsman. The amount of +work involved in getting the long, heavy spar into +position, with all its jungle of standing rigging, +which looks to the uninstructed eye a hopeless +mass of entanglement, is enormous. When, too, +it has to be done as the ship is dragged relentlessly +through a heavy head sea, as was now the case, +the difficulty and danger is certainly doubled. Yet +it must be done, and that speedily, for none of the +upper spars on all three masts are secure until +what seamen call the "head gear" is set up, to +say nothing of the urgent necessity which may, at +any moment, arise of setting the head sails, as the +jibs are termed collectively. So rapidly did the +sea rise, and so powerful was the tug, that before<span class="pagenum">[177]</span> +long heavy masses of water began to come on +board, and several ugly lumps came over the forecastle +head, half drowning the unfortunate men, +who, in poor physical condition, were toiling at +the head gear. Some of them were, of course, +compelled to work right over the bows, where, as +she plunged along, the boiling foam now and then +surged right over their heads. Under these circumstances +some disaster was inevitable. It came. +Suddenly I saw the boatswain leap from the forecastle-deck +aft, a distance of some twenty feet, +yelling, while in the air, "Man overboard!" +There was hardly a minute's delay before the tug +stopped, and everybody gave a sigh of relief to see +that the unfortunate man had caught one of the +life-buoys thrown to him. He placed his hands +upon the edge of the buoyant ring, which rose +edgeways and fell over his head, making him perfectly +safe. But he was so eager that he got his +arms through, and, with both hands on the buoy, +tried to raise himself higher. Unfortunately he +succeeded, and immediately overbalanced, his +head going down while his legs hung over the +sides of the ring. Burdened as he was with oilskins, +sea-boots, and much thick clothing underneath, +it was impossible for him to regain his position, +and when the boat from the tug picked him +up he was quite dead. Steaming back alongside +of us the skipper of the tug reported the sad fact, +suggesting that he might as well take the body +back to Liverpool when he had finished towing us. +This was of course agreed to, and the towage resumed. +But no sooner had the news of our ship<span class="pagenum">[178]</span>mate's +death reached us, than there was a rush to +the forecastle by our crew, to divide the dead man's +belongings—a piece of barbarism quite uncommon +among seamen. They made such a clean +sweep of everything, that when the captain sent to +have the deceased seaman's effects brought aft, all +that was produced would hardly have filled a large +handkerchief, although he had brought two great +bags and a bundle on board with him. So passed +from among us poor Peter Hill, a steady middle-aged +seaman, leaving a widow and two children to +mourn their loss, and exist as best they could +without the meagre half pay he had left them.</p> + +<p>After this calamity the speed of the tug was +reduced until the jibboom was rigged and the anchors +secured. Then the impatient tug-skipper +tried to make up for lost time. Green seas rolled +over the bows as the bluff old ship was towed +through the ugly, advancing waves at a rate quite +beyond anything she could have done unaided. +She strained and groaned as if in pain, while the +severity of her treatment was attested by a long +spell at the pumps, the quantity of water she had +in her giving rise to many ominous mutterings +among the crew. At last the Tuskar was reached, +the topsails and lower staysails were set, and the +tug let go of us, much to our relief, as the motion +at once became easier. Then came the muster and +picking for watches, when the grim fact became +apparent that we were grievously undermanned. +There were but twelve A.B.'s and one ordinary seaman +forward, four tradesmen, <i>i.e.</i> bo'sun, carpenter, +sailmaker, and painter, with three boys in the<span class="pagenum">[179]</span> +half-deck, steward and cook. Aft were the captain +and two officers. Under any circumstances +this would have been a very small crew for a ship +of her size; but, to make matters worse, she was +what sailors call "parish rigged," meaning that +all her gear was of the cheapest—common rope, +that with a little usage grew swollen and clumsy, +often requiring the strength of one man to pull the +slack of it through the wretched "Armstrong +patent" blocks, and not a purchase of any kind to +assist labour except two capstans. Already we +had gotten a taste of her quality in setting the +scanty sail she now carried; what would it be, +later on, when all sail came to be made, we could +easily anticipate. The crew were, as usual, a +mixed lot. There was an elderly Yankee bo'sun's +mate answering to the name of Nat, who, in spite +of his fifty years, was one of the best men on board; +a smart little Yorkshireman, very tidy and quiet; +and two Liverpool-Irishmen—dirty, slovenly, and +obscene always—Flanagan and Mahoney. They, +I learned afterwards, had come home a fortnight +before from the East Indies with a fairly good pay-day, +which they had never seen a copper of, having +lain in one continuous state of drunkenness in a +cellar, from the evening of their arrival, until the +vampires who supplied them with liquor had somehow +obtained a claim upon all their wages. Then, +when the money was drawn, the two miserable +fools were flung into the gutter, sans everything +but the filthy rags on their backs. A jovial darky +from Mauritius, with a face whose native ugliness +was heightened by an extraordinary marking from<span class="pagenum">[180]</span> +smallpox, kept all hands alive with his incessant +fun. He signed as Jean Baptiste, which sacred +appellation was immediately anglicized to Johnny +the Baptist, nor did he ever get called anything +else. There was also a Frenchman from St. Nazaire, +who, though his English was hardly intelligible, +had sailed in our country's ships so long that +he had lost all desire for anything French. He was +also a fine seaman, but the wrong side of forty. +A taciturn Dane, tall and thin, but a good man +as far as his strength went, was also of our company; +and a brawny, hairy Nova Scotiaman, John +Bradley, able enough, but by no means willing to +exert his great strength. Lastly, of those whom +I can remember, came Peter Burn and Julius +Cæsar. When the first-named signed in Liverpool, +he looked like a hale old sea-dog about fifty, +worth half a dozen young, unseasoned men. Unfortunately +for us, he had come out of the experienced +hands of Paddy Finn, a well-known boarding-master +renowned as a "faker-up" of worn-out +and 'long-shore sailors. Rumour had it, too, +that he had recently married a young woman, who +had eloped with several years' savings, leaving him +without any prospect but the workhouse, until +Paddy Finn took him in hand for the sake of his +month's advance. Be that as it may, it was almost +impossible for any one to recognise in the decrepit, +palsied old wreck that crawled aft to muster, and +answered to the name of Peter Burn, the bluff, +hearty old seaman that had signed on so boldly +two or three days before. Julius Cæsar was a +long, cadaverous lad, willing and good-natured,<span class="pagenum">[181]</span> +hailing from Vermont, but so weak and inexperienced +that you could hardly feel him on a rope. +The other three men have entirely faded from my +memory.</p> + +<p>Of the petty officers with whom I lived, it only +needs just now that I note them as all Scotch, belonging, +like the skipper and mate, to the shores +of the Firth of Forth, with the exception of the +painter. He was a Yarmouth man, really an A.B., +but, in consequence of his great ability in decorating, +mixing paints, etc., given five shillings a +month extra, with a bunk in the half-deck. There +was no sea-sobriquet for him, like "Bo'sun," +"Chips," "Sails," or "Doctor," so he was called +by his rightful surname, "Barber." The cook, or +"doctor," was a grimy little Maltese, not quite +such a living libel on cookery as usual, but dirty +beyond belief. I said there were three boys in the +half-deck, but that statement needs qualifying. +The eldest of the trio was as good a man as any on +board the ship, and deserves much more than passing +notice. He had been, like myself, a London +Arab, although never homeless; for his mother, +who earned a scanty living by selling water-cresses, +always managed to keep a corner for him in her +one room up a Shoreditch court. But Bill was +far too manly to be a burden to his mother a day +longer than he could help, so, after trying many +ways of earning an honest crust, he finally managed +to get taken on board the <i>Warspite</i> training-ship, +whence he was apprenticed in the <i>Western +Belle</i> for four years. He was now in his third year +of service, a sturdy, reliable young fellow of eight<span class="pagenum">[182]</span>een, +not very brilliant, perhaps, but a first-class +seaman: a credit to himself and to his training. +The other boy, besides myself, was a keen urchin +about my own age, on his first voyage, of respectable +parentage, and with a good outfit. Whatever +his previous experience had been I don't remember; +I think he came straight from school. +Anyhow, he was artful enough to early earn the +title of "a young sailor, but a d—-d old soldier," +which concise character sums up all that a seaman +can say as to a person's ability in doing as little as +possible. Captain Smith, our chief, was a jolly, +easy-going Scotchman of about sixty, always +good-tempered, and disinclined to worry about +anything. He had his wife and daughter with +him, the latter a plain young lady of about twenty-two. +Both of them shared the skipper's good +qualities, and the ship was certainly more comfortable +for their presence. Mr. Edny, the chief +mate, was a splendid specimen of manhood, a +Scotchman about thirty-five years of age, with +coal-black hair and eyes. He was the most hirsute +individual I have ever seen, a shaggy black +mane, longer and thicker than any Newfoundland +dog's, waving all over his chest and back. Mr. +Cottam, the second mate, was a square-built, +undersized man from the Midlands, the bane of +my existence, but a prime seaman who loved work +for its own sake.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[183]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">DUE SOUTH</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Perhaps</span> an undue amount of space has been +given to particularizing the <i>Western Belle's</i> crew, +but my excuse must be that this was my first big +ship (the steamer didn't count), as well as my first +long voyage. To me it was the commencement +of a new era. Hitherto I had not been long +enough on board any one ship to take much interest +in either her or her crew. The changes had +been so numerous and rapid, that while I was certainly +accumulating a large stock of varied experiences, +I was unable to put them to much practical +use, because I remained so small and weak. +But now I knew that, barring accidents, I was in +for a twelve-months' voyage; I should cross the +"line" four times, round the Cape twice, and return +a regular "Sou'-Spainer," looking down from +a lofty height of superiority upon other sea-boys +who had never sailed to the "Suthard."</p> + +<p>When the watches had been picked I found +myself under the second mate, whom I dismissed +rather summarily at the close of the last chapter, +because I shall have a great deal to say about him +later on. For the present it suffices to note that +my evil genius must have been in the ascendant,<span class="pagenum">[184]</span> +for "Jemmy the Scrubber," as we always called +Mr. Cottam behind his back, was a regular tyrant, +who spared nobody, not even himself. The men +of his watch took things easily, as usual, knowing +full well that he was unable to coerce them; but I +was helpless in his hands, and he did not fail to let +me know the fact. There was some compensation +for me in having Bill Smith, the sturdy apprentice +before mentioned, as my watch-mate, for he was +both able and willing to lend me a helping hand +whenever possible, although of course he could +not shield me from the amiable weaknesses of Jemmy +the Scrubber. Still, his friendship was very +valuable to me, and it has endured unto this day.</p> + +<p>At the outset of the voyage I found, that if I +had never earned my pay in my life before, I was +going to do so now. When there was one hand +at the wheel and one on the look-out, there were +four A.B.'s, Bill and myself, available to make or +shorten sail. Consequently it became the practice +to send me up alone to loose whatever sail +was going to be set during the night, and I would +go up and down from one masthead to the other +while the men did the hauling on deck. Then +when the job was finished the men retired to their +several corners, more often than not into their +bunks in the fo'lk'sle, leaving me to coil up all +the ropes and then return to my post aft in front +of the poop, ready to carry Jemmy's orders when +he gave any. She was a very heavy-working ship, +as before noted, making the ordinary duties of +trimming sail for such a handful of men most exhaustive; +but, in addition to that, the food was so<span class="pagenum">[185]</span> +bad that it reminded me strongly of the <i>Arabella</i>. +Yet so usual, so universal, was this shameful condition +of things, that there was no more than the +ordinary quantity of "growling"; no complaints +brought aft; and things went on pretty comfortably. +Of course she leaked—"made a good drop +o' water," as sailors say—but still in fine weather +the pumps would "suck" in ten minutes at four-hour +intervals. But sail she couldn't. A Rochester +barge would have given her two miles in ten, +and as to "turning to windward"—that is, zig-zagging +against a contrary wind—it was a mere +farce. She made so much leeway that she just +sailed to and fro on the same old track till the wind +freed. Therefore it was a weary time before we +got down as far as that dreaded stretch of stormy +sea known to seamen as the "Bay," although it +extends many a league Atlantic-wards from the +Bay of Biscay. Here we battered about for several +days, against a persistent south-westerly wind +that refused to let us get south, until at last it +freshened into a bitter gale, accompanied by the +ugly cross sea that gives this region such unenviable +notoriety. Under two lower topsails and +reefed foresail we wallowed and drifted, watching +with envious gaze the "flyers" gliding homeward +under enormous clouds of canvas, steady and dry, +while we were just like a half-tide rock, swept fore +and aft by every comber that came hissing along. +Here I got a narrow squeak for my life. I was +coiling up the gear in the waist when she lurched +heavily to windward, just as a green mass of water +lifted itself like a hill on that side. Before she<span class="pagenum">[186]</span> +could rise to it, hundreds of tons of foaming water +rolled on board, sweeping me blindly off my feet +and over the lee rail. Clinging desperately to +the rope I held, I waited, swollen almost to bursting +with holding my breath, but quite unconscious +of the fact that I was overboard. At last she +rolled to windward again, and I was swept back by +another wave, which flung me like a swab into the +tangle of gear surrounding the mainmast, little +the worse for my perilous journey. And thus she +behaved all that night, never free from a roaring +mass of water that swept fore and aft continually, +leaving not a dry corner anywhere. Sundry noises +beneath the fore-hatch warned us that something +heavy among the stores had broken adrift; but it +was impossible to go down and see, not only for +fear of the water getting below, but because of the +accumulated gas from the coal, which, unventilated +for days, would only have needed a spark to have +blown the ship sky-high. Towards morning, however, +the weather fined down. As soon as possible +the fore-hatch was taken off, and there we found +in the 'tween decks a mess awful to contemplate. +The whole of our sea-stock of salt beef and pork in +tierces had broken adrift, together with two casks +of Stockholm tar, and had been hurled backwards +and forwards across the ship until every barrel was +broken in pieces. There lay the big joints of meat +like miniature islands in a sea of tar, except that, +with every roll of the ship, they swam languidly +from side to side in the black flood. All hands +were set to work to collect the food—it was all we +had—hoist it on deck, and secure it there in such<span class="pagenum">[187]</span> +fashion as we could. Then it was scraped clear +of the thickest of the tar, the barrels were set up +again and refilled with the filthy stuff, into the +midst of which freshly-made pickle was poured. +It was not good food before, but now, completely +saturated with tar, it was nauseous beyond the +power of words to describe. Yet it was eaten, +and before long we got so used to the flavour that +it passed unnoticed. This diversion kept all hands +busy for two or three days, during which the +weather was kind to us, and we gradually stole +south, until the steady trade took hold of us and +helped us along into settled fine weather.</p> + +<p>By this time all hands had settled down into +their several grooves, determined to make the best +of a bad bargain. One thing was agreed upon—that, +except for her short-handedness and starvation, +she was a pretty comfortable ship. There +was no driving, no rows; while the feminine influence +aft made itself felt in the general freedom +from bad language that prevailed on deck. But +we were not yet low enough in numbers, apparently. +The old man, Peter Burn, who shook so much +that he was never allowed aloft, became perfectly +useless. He had been an old man-o'-war's man, +living, whenever possible, a life of riot and debauchery, +for which he was now called upon to pay +the penalty. At a time of life when many men are +not long past their prime, he was reduced to childishness—a +very picture of senile decay. His body, +too, in consequence, I suppose, of the foul feeding, +became a horrible sight upon the opening of more +than forty abscesses, from which, however, he<span class="pagenum">[188]</span> +seemed to feel no pain. Strange to say, his rough +shipmates, who of course had to make good his +deficiency, showed no resentment at the serious +addition to their labours. With a gentleness and +care that could hardly have been expected of them, +they endeavoured to make the ancient mariner's +declining days as comfortable as the circumstances +would allow, and I am sure that nowhere could +the old fellow have been more carefully looked +after.</p> + +<p>She was an unlucky ship. Her slow gait, even +with favouring winds, was something to wonder +at; but, as if even that were not delay enough, we +met with a most abnormal amount of calms and +light airs—hindrances that would have made some +skippers I have known unbearable to live with. +But Captain Smith was one of a thousand. Nothing +seemed to ruffle his serene good-humour. It +must have been infectious, for the conditions of +food and work were so bad that a little ugly temper +added thereto would certainly have caused a +mutiny. As usual I, unluckiest of urchins, was +about the worst-off person on board. Jemmy the +Scrubber, unable to imbue the rest of his watch +with his own restless activity, gave me no peace +night or day. Woe betide me, if, overcome by +sleep in my watch on deck at night, I failed to +hear his first call. With a bull's-eye lantern +in one hand, and a piece of ratline stuff in the +other, he would prowl around until he found +me, and then—well, I was wide-awake enough +for the rest of that watch. In the half-deck +I was treated fairly well, except in the matter of<span class="pagenum">[189]</span> +food, and even that got put right in time. I +have often wondered since how four men of good +standing, like our petty officers, could deliberately +cheat two boys out of their scanty share of the +only eatable food we had; but they certainly did. +Every other day except Saturday was "duff" day, +when the modicum of flour allowed us was made +into a plain pudding by the addition of yeast and +fat. The portion due to each made a decent-sized +plateful, and, with a spoonful of questionable +molasses, furnished the best meals we got. Now +the duff for the half-deck was boiled in a conical +bag, and turned out very similar in shape and size +to a sugar-loaf. It was brought into the house in +a tin pan not wide enough to allow it to lay +flat, so it stuck up diagonally. The sailmaker always +"whacked it out," marking off as many +divisions as there were candidates. So far so +good. But when he cut off his portion, instead +of cutting fair across the duff, he used to cut +straight down, thus taking off half the next portion +as well, owing to the diagonal position of the +duff. Then came the bo'sun, who of course followed +suit, and the others likewise, until the last +two "whacks" falling to the share of the boys was +really only the size of one. For a long time this +hardship was endured in silence, until one day, at +the weekly apportionment of the sugar, much the +same sort of thing took place. Then Bill Smith +broke out, and there was a rare to-do. Our seniors +were dreadfully indignant at his daring to hint +at the possibility of their being unfair, and, for +some time, I feared a combined assault upon the<span class="pagenum">[190]</span> +sturdy fellow. All their tall talk, however, only +served to stiffen his back, and, in the result, we +got our fair share of what was going.</p> + +<p>Hitherto I had not seen any deep-sea fishing; +so, when one day a school of bonito came leaping +round the bows, and the mate went out on the +jibboom end with a line, my curiosity was at fever-heat. +How ever I endured until eight bells I +don't know. Once or twice the wrath of Jemmy +was kindled against me for inattention, and I got a +sharp reminder of my duties. At last eight bells +struck. I had the dinner in the house in a twinkling, +and in another minute was rushing out along +the boom to where the mate had left his line while +he went in to "take the sun." The tackle was +simplicity itself, consisting solely of a stout line +about the thickness of blind-cord, with an inch +hook firmly seized to its end, baited with a shred of +white rag. My fingers trembled so that I could +hardly loose the neat coil the mate had left, for below +me, gambolling in the sparkling foam beaten +forward from the bluff bows, were quite a large +number of splendid fish, although they did not +seem nearly as large as they were in reality. At +last I got the line free, and, bestriding the boom-end +with my legs firmly locked between the jib +guys, I allowed the lure to flutter away to leeward, +jerking it gently so as to imitate a leaping squid or +bewildered flying-fish. Splash! and the graceful +curve of my line suddenly changed into a straight; +I had hooked one. In a perfect frenzy of excitement +I hauled madly, scarcely daring to look below +where my prize dangled, his weight fairly cut<span class="pagenum">[191]</span>ting +my hands. At last I had him in my arms, but +such was the tremendous vibration of his massive +body that, although I plunged my thumbs through +his gills, I was benumbed from head to heel. All +feeling left me, and my head was beginning to +swim, when I bethought me of plunging him into +the folds of the jib, which was furled on the boom. +With a flash of energy I accomplished this, falling +across the quivering carcase half dead myself. But +before he was quite dead I had recovered, and, +prouder than any victorious warrior returning +from the hard-won field, I bore him inboard. I +was received in the half-deck as a benefactor to my +species, for had I not provided twenty pounds of +fresh food. How welcome my catch was can hardly +be comprehended by those who have never +known what it means to subsist upon beef and +pork, which when dry turns white and hard as salt +itself, with the flavour of tar superadded, and that +for many weeks. The first flush of excitement +over, attention was called to my gory appearance. +I had not noticed it before, but now I found that I +was literally drenched in blood, black-red from the +chin downwards. What of that? I had caught +my first big fish, and nothing else mattered. Out +I went again, succeeding in a few minutes in hooking +another. But one of my watchmates must +needs come interfering, and take it away from me, +in spite of my protests. I was actually bold +enough to tell him that the way he was carrying +it was unsafe—the idea of me, with my five minutes' +experience, dictating to an old "shellback" +like Bradley. I was right though, for, when half<span class="pagenum">[192]</span> +way in, the fish gave a convulsive plunge and fell, +leaving his gills in Bradley's fist. I didn't say anything, +but, like the parrot, I did some tall thinking. +All the fish left us instanter, attracted doubtless +by the blood of their mutilated fellow; so, +sulkily coiling up the line, I came in. There was +a plentiful supper at four bells, and, though I +should now pronounce the flesh of a bonito as dry +and tasteless, then it was sweeter to me than I +could express. While it was yet in my mouth, +yea! ere it was chewed, retribution overtook me. +I heard the watch on deck setting sail forward, and +more conversation ensuing upon the performance +than usual. Suddenly a shock-head thrust +itself into the half-deck. The voice of Cæsar said +ominously, "Tom, th' mate wanse yer!" With a +thrill of dread crawling up the roots of my hair I +obeyed, following the messenger forrard. There +stood the port watch, grouped round the mate, +gazing upward at the sail they had just been setting, +the jib. Well they might. From head to +tack down its whole length ran ghastly streaks +and patches of gore, a sight that made my flesh +creep. "Did <i>you</i> do that?" said the mate in an +awful tone. There was no need for any answer; +my guilt was manifest. Vengeance lingered not, +and, in a few minutes, the <i>manes</i> of my first fish +were propitiated. Lamely I retired to complete +my supper with what appetite I could muster, and +to vow that the next fishing I did I would take +a sack out with me. But the evidence of my offence +was permanent, surviving the bleaching of +sun, rain, and spray throughout the whole of the<span class="pagenum">[193]</span> +voyage. My waspish little tyrant, the second +mate, could hardly rope's-end me again for the +same fault; but he made it an excuse for robbing +me of a goodly portion of each day-watch below, +keeping me on deck sorting the carpet-thrums of +which he was for ever making hearthrugs. Oh, +how I did hate his fancy-work and him too. But I +dared not complain or refuse, although at night I +was always getting into trouble for going to sleep, +which I really couldn't help.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[194]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">EIGHT WEEKS' CALM.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leisurely</span> as our progress had been hitherto, +we had always managed to make some Southing +each day. But now ensued a time unique in all +my experience. What our exact position was I +do not know; but I fancy it must have been somewhere +near the Equator in the Atlantic. When +the faltering, fitful breezes first failed us, a long +succession of rain deluges set in, which at first were +most heartily welcome. For, like many other +ships of her class in those days, the <i>Western Belle's</i> +store of water-tanks contained barely enough of +the precious fluid to suffice us for half the voyage, +even upon the regulation allowance of three quarts +per man each day. Rain was depended upon to +replenish them in time, and on such voyages, of +course, seldom failed to afford a bountiful supply. +Now, however, it fell for whole days in one solid, +roaring downpour that, in spite of the many openings +by which the decks were drained, filled them +so that it was possible to swim from poop to forecastle +in fresh water. Everybody turned out all +their belongings that were washable, and a regular +carnival of soap and water took place. Then the +ports were opened and the decks cleared of water.<span class="pagenum">[195]</span> +It still poured over the front of the poop like a +small Niagara, and from thence, as being the cleanest, +we refilled all our tanks. Still the flood came +down without a break, until the incessant roar became +awe-inspiring. Many of the crew spoke of +it as passing all their experience, even hinting at +the possibility of another flood. It was so heavy +that the experiment was successfully tried of +scooping up drinkable water off the sea-surface, +which was like a mill-pond for its level, although +all a-foam with the falling torrent. The ship lay +as nearly motionless as it is possible for a ship to +be out in mid-ocean. For Coleridge's simile of +"A painted ship upon a painted ocean" is only a +poet's licence, and grates upon a seaman as the +sole picture in that wonderful work which is not +literally true. Admiral Wharton's remark that +"In all the incalculable mass of the ocean not one +particle is ever absolutely at rest," may strike most +people as strange; but it is sober truth, and therefore +it is impossible for a vessel at sea ever to be +perfectly motionless.</p> + +<p>Gradually the massive downpour abated, the +sun peeped out, and the sodden decks and gear +dried up. But there was no breath of wind. And +as Captain Smith was a practical man, with all his +patience, he decided to utilize this otherwise barren +time in carrying out a scheme he had purposed +leaving for some long spell of waiting in Indian +harbours. We had on deck three huge, rough +spars—long logs, in fact. These were loosed from +their lashings and lifted on to the gallows, whereon +the boats usually rested. A big rip-saw was<span class="pagenum">[196]</span> +produced—the only time I ever saw one on board +ship—and the strange spectacle was witnessed of a +ship's deck being turned into a saw-pit, sailors into +sawyers. Thick slabs were sawn off the spars, +after which the carpenter, and a couple of men who +could handle axe and adze, set to work to fashion +them into topsail-yards. Meanwhile, the rest of +the hands toiled like beavers, unbending sails, sending +down yards, and overhauling standing rigging, +until the old ship looked as if she were in some snug +dock-corner being dismantled. All day long this +work went on, no one knowing or caring whose +watch on deck it should be, and at night the weary +workers lay around promiscuously, sleeping away +the hours of darkness in calm certainty of being +undisturbed. This curious interlude in an ocean +voyage developed strange faculties in our men. +The iron bands, which form part of the fittings of +a ship's yards, were, owing to the skipper's desire +to have heavier spars, found to be too small. No +matter. An impromptu forge was rigged up on a +barrel filled with sand, a most ingenious bellows +was made by somebody, and, as if born and bred in +a smithy, the bo'sun and two hands manipulated +that ironwork in such workmanlike fashion that +it answered its purpose as well as if turned out of a +Blackwall foundry.</p> + +<p>For many days this work went on, with apparently +no more notice taken of its strangeness +than as if it were the normal course of events. +But gradually the deathly stillness of our surroundings, +the utter absence of the faintest air of +wind, or sign of any other vessel in a similar plight,<span class="pagenum">[197]</span> +began to tell upon everybody's nerves. Men took +to gathering in twos and threes in the evenings to +recount their experiences of lengthened calms, and +the yarns they had heard of bygone tragedies connected +with ships that had strayed into windless +seas. Even the busy working-hours could not +prevent the men from gazing uneasily over the side +where the familiar, smiling face of the sea was +undergoing a mysterious change. There is about +the deep sea, even in the hottest weather, a delicious +atmosphere of cool cleanliness, a searching +purity, such as the earth can never yield, giving +one the fixed idea that to this vast, unpollutable +limpidity the nations owe their health. In some +dim fashion this thought is present with all sea-farers, +however dense and unnoticing they may be. +Therefore, when that familiar freshness was found +to be giving place to a stale, stagnant greasiness +to which a mawkish, uninvigorating atmosphere +clung, what wonder that uneasiness—all the more +difficult to bear quietly because undefinable—became +generally manifest. Adding to the sense of +eerieness, was the fact that old Peter was failing +fast. I have already mentioned how willingly his +share of the common burden was borne by his +shipmates, and how loyally they tended him, even +though such service as he needed could not be +spoken of without offence. But now his mind had +completely gone. He lived in some misty past, +about which he babbled unceasingly. Often, in the +still evenings, all hands would gather round him, +listening in perfect silence to his disjointed reminiscences +of desperate deeds in the way of duty, of<span class="pagenum">[198]</span> +long-drawn-out debaucheries in filthy rookeries of +home ports, as well as the well-known hells at +Hong Kong, Calcutta, or Callao. They were +strange scenes, those dog-watch gatherings, nothing +distinctly visible but the red glow of the pipes—except +when the sudden glare of a match, struck +to light fresh tobacco, shed a momentary gleam +over the group of haggard, bearded faces, each beclouded +with an unwonted shadow. In the midst, +a placid stream of sound, Peter's voice prattled on, +its lurid language in the strangest contrast to the +gentleness of his speech. Still the days dragged +on and the faces grew longer. All the refitting +was finished, and only the ordinary routine of ship-life +was left to be carried on. Happily those duties +are always, in the hands of capable officers, sufficiently +onerous to prevent time ever hanging heavily. +One of the strangest of all the strange notions +current ashore about sea-life is that sailors +have nothing to do but watch the ship go along, +except during stormy weather. One would have +thought that the never-ending, ever-beginning +round of work in a house that is properly kept +would have taught all landsmen and women that +the great complicated machine called a ship would +demand at least equal labours to keep it fit and in +working order. But "watch and watch" was +now restored, which, of course, threw a great deal +of additional time upon the men's hands, since they +could still sleep through the night, if they chose, +without fear of being disturbed. So for hours, +when unemployed, men took to hanging over the +rail, watching, with an unnatural curiosity, the<span class="pagenum">[199]</span> +myriads of strange creatures that, lured from their +silent haunts in the gloomy middle-depths of the +ocean by the long-enduring stillness above, came +crawling about, blinking glassily with dead-looking +eyes at the unfamiliar light. Truly it was an +uncanny sight. Not only fish of bizarre shape +abounded, but vast numbers of great medusæ—semi-transparent +simulacra of all the hideous +things that ever haunted a maniac's dream—crawled +greasily about us, befouling the once clear +blue of the sea, and coating its sleek surface with +stagnant slime. And, deeper down, mighty shadows +passed sluggishly to and fro, filling the gazers +with wordless terror as the days crept wearily +away and those formless apparitions gradually +chose higher levels. Overhead the sweet fathomless +azure of the sky paled as if in sympathy with +the silent sea. Cloudless, indeed, but overspread +with a filmy veil of strange mist, that, while it +robbed the sun of its glare, seemed to enclose us +within a dome of heat, unventilated and stale. +When night fell, instead of cool refreshment—such +as comes, even in tropical calms, after sunset at all +ordinary times—there arose a foul odour of decaying +things that clung clammily to the palate like a +miasma. The densely populated ocean beneath +palpitated with pale fire, the gleaming of putrescence. +Instead of the usual brisk movement seen +among the glowing denizens of the deep, everything +crawled languidly, as if infected with some +universal pestilence. Moon and stars lost their +strong silver glow, and were no longer reflected in +the smoothness beneath as if shining in another<span class="pagenum">[200]</span> +heaven. And at moonrise, when the fantastic +mist-wreaths writhed about the horizon, the broad +red disc of the moon would be distorted into many +uncouth shapes, or patterns of strange design were +drawn across her paling surface.</p> + +<p>At last, one night, when old Peter was holding +his usual levee, he suddenly raised his voice, and +authoritatively demanded that his auditors should +bear him on to the forecastle head. They instantly +obeyed, lifting him tenderly upon his mattress, +and laying him gently by the side of the capstan. +Then all hands gathered round him in the darkness, +only the glow of the pipes fitfully illuminating +the rugged countenances. Slowly the moon +rose, but sent no silvery pathway across the sea, +until suddenly, as if with a great effort, she broke +through the hampering mist-wreaths that seemed +to clog her upward way. A pure, pale beam shot +right athwart our vessel, lighting up the little +group of watchers on the forecastle, and lingering +as if lovingly upon the withered, weather-scarred +face of our ancient shipmate. As it did so he +smiled—a patient, happy smile—his lips unclosed, +and, with a sigh of relief like a weary child, he +died.</p> + +<p>Breaking the steadfast silence came the mate's +mellow cry, "Square the mainyard!" As the men +rose to obey, a gentle breath, welcome as the first +thrill of returning health, kissed the tanned faces. +Slowly the great yards swung round, a pleasant +murmuring as of a mountain rivulet arose from the +bows, and the long calm was over. In quiet attendance +upon the dead came the sailmaker, with<span class="pagenum">[201]</span> +a roll of worn canvas under his arm in which the +poor, shrivelled remains were reverently wrapped +and neatly sewn up. A big lump of coal was found +and secured to the feet, and the long parcel was +borne gently aft to the gangway. There in the +moonlight we all gathered, while the skipper, with +faltering, unaccustomed voice, read the stately +words of the Burial Service, all hands standing like +statues as they listened to what all admit to be one +of the most solemn as well as majestic selections +known in our splendid language. Suddenly there +was a pause; the skipper raised his hand, and those +who supported the plank on which the worn-out +tabernacle of old Peter lay, gently raised its inner +end. There was a subdued s-s-s-h as the white +fardel slid slowly seaward, followed by a sullen +plunge. All rushed to the side, where an ascending +column of green light marked the descent into +those calm profundities of our dead. An almost +inaudible sigh of relief escaped from every lip, as +if a well-nigh intolerable burden had been removed. +Undoubtedly that was the predominant feeling, +intensified by the fact that a sweet breeze was now +blowing steadily. In the blue dome above, the +moon and her attendant stars were shining with +their full splendour, and from the now sparkling +face of the surrounding sea the sickly mist was +rolled quite away.</p> + +<p>Thenceforward, although our progress was +wretchedly slow, of course, we were little troubled +by calms. But our tribulations were not yet all +over. Barber, the painter A.B., was taken ill; +so ill as to be quite useless, nor did he ever again<span class="pagenum">[202]</span> +that voyage recover sufficiently to resume his place +as an active member of the crew. And other men +were grievously tried by scurvy, which, though in +a mild form, was painful and weakening. How it +was that they were no worse, I cannot think, for +the food was bad enough truly for the development +of that malignant disease in its worst form. +But, somehow, we worried along in dogged fashion, +every one showing rare patience under their +unmerited sufferings.</p> + +<p>And so, in laborious fashion, we crept southward +and round the Cape without any bad weather +worth mentioning, until well to the eastward of +that justly dreaded point. Then one night we had +a narrow escape from serious disaster. It was our +(the second mate's) watch on deck from eight to +midnight. We were jogging along before a light +south-westerly breeze, at about four knots, the +weather being singularly fine for those latitudes. +Down in the cabin the skipper, his wife and daughter, +and the mate were playing cards, while the +second mate, with a carelessness most unusual with +him, was hanging over the open scuttle, absorbed +in watching the game. Rees, the old Frenchman +with a Welsh name, was on the look-out, and I +heard him muttering and grumbling because the +officer of the watch was oblivious of the fact that +an ominous-looking cloud was rising in the northeast, +or almost right ahead. Presently from its +black bosom faint gleams of lightning showed +themselves, while the subdued murmur of the +breeze we had became hushed in an unnatural +quiet. With a quickness that seemed miraculous,<span class="pagenum">[203]</span> +the threatening cloud ahead overspread the sky, +and still the second mate did not realize what +was coming. As all sail was set, the position began +to look so threatening that all the watch took +the alarm, and gathered in the waist, ready for the +sudden emergency imminent. Presently the wind +dropped dead, its sudden failure arousing the supine +officer, who, lifting his head, took in the situation +at a glance. But before he could issue an order, +there came a smart patter of rain, followed +immediately by a roar as the north-east wind, like +a savage beast, leapt upon us, taking us flat aback. +Then there was a hubbub. Up rushed the skipper +and mate, shouting for all hands. Everything was +let go at once; but the sails, jammed backward +against the masts, refused to allow the yards to +come down. The ship began to drive astern most +dangerously, nor could she be got round by any +means. Presently she dipped her stern right +under, taking a sea in over the taffrail that filled +the decks fore and aft. It was now a question of +minutes with us. If she could not be got round +she would certainly go down stern foremost, for +again and again she drove her broad stern under +the rising sea as the now furious gale hurled her +backwards. The feeble efforts of the crew seemed +utterly unavailing against the mighty force of this +sudden tempest. But, providentially, a huge sea +caught her on one bow, flinging her head off far +enough for the wind to grip the head sails. Round +she spun upon her heel like a top, and in another +minute the shreds of the rending sails were thundering +above our heads as they flew to fragments.<span class="pagenum">[204]</span> +In an indescribable uproar, wherein the howling of +the gale, the reverberations of the thunder, and +the crash of our yards were all mingled, the ill-used +vessel sped away before the wind as if fleeing for +her life. An almost continual glare of lightning +shed an unearthly light over all, by which the +havoc that was being wrought was plainly to be +seen. How that night's work was ever accomplished +I have no idea. But when morning +dawned we were fore-reaching under the three +lower topsails and fore topmast staysail, the fluttering +rags of what remained of our lighter sails +being secured in some haphazard sort of fashion to +the yards. We had escaped the doom of many a +fine ship, whose crew have paid the penalty of +carelessness with their lives. It was long, however, +before we overtook the labour which those +few hours involved us in. For many days we +jogged along under easy sail, getting farther and +farther to the northward every day, happily for us, +and so putting a greater distance between us and +bad weather.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[205]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">UP THE INDIAN OCEAN TO BOMBAY.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> certain seasons of the year the minds of +mariners navigating the Indian Ocean are always, +more or less, upon the tension of expectancy concerning +the possibility of their encountering one +of those tremendous meteors known as cyclones. +A keen watch is continually kept upon the mercury +in the barometer for any deviation from its +normal ebb and flow, which occurs with the greatest +regularity in the tropics during settled weather. +For these truly awful storms are so justly dreaded, +by even the bravest seaman, that no danger of +navigation claims more attention. The possibility +of meeting, or being overtaken by one, bulks +largely in the dog-watch discussions among the +foremast hands, and he who has successfully braved +an encounter with a cyclone, speaks with an authority +denied to his fellows who have never had +such a painful experience. Even to me, juvenile +as I was, an almost deferential hearing was accorded +when I spoke of my Havana experience—the +hurricane of the West Indies, the typhoon of +the China seas, and the cyclone of the Indian +Ocean being only different names for the same +mighty atmospheric convulsion. Happily, our<span class="pagenum">[206]</span> +leisurely progress northward was unattended by +any such deeply perilous adventure as the encounter +with a cyclone would have been. Doubts +were freely expressed as to the probability of the +<i>Western Belle</i> weathering one at any time, but especially +under our present short-handed conditions. +Every day, therefore, that passed seeing +us nearer port was noted with delight, as lessening +our chances of utter extermination. And when at +last we passed the latitude of Cape Comorin and +entered the Arabian Sea, there was a distinct lightening +of faces and a tendency to make little of the +weary passage now gradually nearing its end. We +did not see a vessel of any description, during +our journey from the Cape, until within two hundred +miles of Bombay, neither did we sight any +land. But one morning, to my amazement, I saw +a vessel nearing us, unlike any I had ever seen before—except +in pictures. She had a hull like the +half of an egg cut lengthways, and was propelled +by an enormous white sail of lateen shape, or almost +like one of our jibs. She could not have +been more than ten or fifteen tons capacity, and +how she stood up under such an immense spread of +sail was a mystery. She came flying along like a +huge sea-bird, shooting up almost in the wind's eye, +and presently, graceful as an albatross, rounded-to +under our stern and "spilled" her sail. Seated in +the after part of this queer craft were two or three +dignified-looking men in white raiment, with the +peculiar stiff headgear affected by Parsees. One +of the black, unclad natives forming her crew +hooked on to our fore-chains, and, with an agility<span class="pagenum">[207]</span> +I should have hardly believed possible, one of the +white-robed visitors seized a rope flung over the +side and skipped on board. Speaking correct +English, he saluted the mate, who stood at the +gangway; then hastened aft, and, making a low +salaam to the skipper, solicited the honour of being +our "dubash," or general purveyor, while we +were in harbour. To his great disappointment, +however, Captain Smith was an old Bombay trader, +and always employed the same dubash; so +that, after a few compliments, our visitor politely +took his leave, hoping for better luck next time.</p> + +<p>Thenceforward we met many native craft, or +"buggalows," as they call them, lumbering along +the coast on various errands, all characterized by +a general makeshift appearance that made me +wonder how ever they dared brave the dangers of +the sea at all. But that is a peculiarity of all Eastern +native craft. They are things of shreds and +patches, and look as seaworthy as a waggon with +a worn-out tarpaulin set. Most of them creep +along shore pretty closely, and, at night, lower +their wooden anchors down about twenty fathoms, +furl sail, and turn in—or, at least, go to sleep. +She is pretty safe to fetch up somewhere, and time +doesn't matter. If she gets run down by some +bustling ship or another, it is Kismet, and not +to be helped.</p> + +<p>At last we drew near Bombay—that Liverpool +of the East—the first sight of which is so amazing +to an untravelled Briton. I was almost stupefied +with wonder at the mighty stream of traffic, the +immense fleet of ships that lay at anchor in the<span class="pagenum">[208]</span> +magnificent harbour, and the beauty of the great +city. We had shipped a white pilot, who, being +anxious to get up to the anchorage before dusk, +and make one job of the mooring, was "cracking +on" to an exceedingly stiff breeze, making the +old ship heel over alarmingly. Suddenly I heard +my name called. Running aft, I was met by the +second mate, who, handing me a coil of line, ordered +me to go up and reeve the signal halliards in +the mizzen truck. Now, I should premise that, +like all American-built ships, we carried very long +"royal poles," or bare tapering extensions of the +masts above the highest part of the rigging. Ours +were extra long—some sixteen feet or so—and +crowned at the top, which was not much thicker +than a man's wrist, with a flat piece of wood about +as large as a cheese-plate, in one side of which was +a sheave for the signal halliards or flag-line. I +started aloft boldly enough; but when I reached +the base of the pole, and saw to what a height its +bareness towered above me, while the staggering +ship lurched to leeward and the foaming sea roared +a hundred and twenty feet below, my heart failed +me, my head swam, and all my scanty stock of +strength left me. For some time I sat with my +legs clutched round the pole, just clinging, without +power to move. Then I heard the voice of +the second mate pealing up from the deck. +"Hurry up there with those halliards!" Strange +as it may appear, although I felt that I was going +to certain death, my fear of him was so great that +I made the attempt. Pulling myself up, I shut +my eyes and murmured a prayer. Trembling in<span class="pagenum">[209]</span> +every nerve, but fighting against my benumbing +weakness, I actually struggled to the top. As I +write, the cold sweat bursts from every pore, for I +feel again the terrible agony of that moment. +Opening my eyes, I thrust at the opening of the +sheave with the end of the line; but it was knotted, +and would not go through. I <i>had</i> tried and failed, +and with my last flash of energy I grasped the pole +again in both arms, and slid down on to the eyes +of the royal rigging. Here I clung for a few minutes +to recover myself, and to be violently sick; +then, feeling as if the bitterness of death was past, +I descended to the deck, walked up to Mr. Cottam, +and said, "I have tried, and I can't do it, sir—not +if you kill me." He stared at me blankly +for a moment. Then turning away, as if the situation +was beyond him, he called my constant chum, +Bill Smith, and gave him the job. He, being +strong as a bear and agile as a monkey, very soon +managed it; not without considerable grumbling +at Jemmy for sending a "weakly kid" like me on +such an errand. The whole episode may seem +trivial; but I frankly declare that having, in my +experience, faced death many times, I have never +felt such terror as I did then.</p> + +<p>We made a "flying moor" in fine style, in spite +of the great fleet of ships surrounding us, the sails +were furled, decks cleared up, and all hands dismissed +forrard to meditate upon the successful +close of our passage of seven months from Liverpool. +Soon everybody's attention was drawn to +a large ship near by, whose crew were weighing +anchor, homeward bound. It was the <i>Stornoway</i>,<span class="pagenum">[210]</span> +the vessel we had seen towing into Liverpool as we +left. She had discharged and loaded in Liverpool, +made her passage out, and now, having discharged +and loaded in Bombay, was returning again. Such +differences there are between sailing ships.</p> + +<p>The morning brought a chattering crowd of +coolies carrying little shallow baskets and short +hoes. At first, the idea of discharging two thousand +tons of coal by such childish means seemed +absurd, and, when a start was made, impossible. +For the poor wretches—men, women, and children—did +not appear to have the faintest idea of +working, or to possess enough strength to do +more than carry their attenuated bodies about. +But they were formed into lines, from the hatches +to the gangways, and, while some scratched the +coal into the baskets with the hoes, the rest passed +them from hand to hand to a monotonous chant +of "Jal marck ooday, jal marck oodayleeallah, jal +marck ooday." The spelling, of course, is phonetic, +and I haven't the faintest idea what it meant. +So mechanically did they "puckarow" those +baskets, that often one would pass from the hatch +to the gangway empty, the coolie on the rail going +through the motions of tilting it over into the +lighter and returning it. In any case, I do not +think the average weight of coal passed in a basket +was seven pounds. Yet somehow the lighters got +filled. There was such a number of coolies, and +the passing was so incessant, that it was bound to +tell. The crew, apart from the discomfort of the +all-pervading coal-dust, had a very good time, as +little work being required of them as possible.<span class="pagenum">[211]</span> +And, while a plentiful allowance of fresh meat and +vegetables was provided by the ship, there was also +a bumboat in attendance that kept the men well +supplied, at their own cost, with fruit, eggs, etc. +I was fortunate enough again to be book-keeper, +receiving in return as much fruit as I wanted.</p> + +<p>Except on Sundays, matters went on in a very +humdrum style, the only incident out of the common +being a picnic excursion to the rock-temples +of Elephanta. But I have no intention of describing +such places, that, indeed, are as well known +to readers as the Isle of Wight. My object is a +totally different one. On Sundays I should think +the bulk of the trading population got afloat, and +came ship-visiting. If our ship's deck was a fair +sample of those of the rest of the fleet, there could +have been little merchandise left in the bazaars. +From the cabin to the forecastle the decks were almost +impassable for the piles of curios of all kinds—clothes, +cigars, birds, etc. The bulk of the stuff +was dreadful rubbish, almost worthless, in fact; yet, +owing to the ignorance of sailors of what can be +bought in decent shops at home, the trash fetched +high prices, at least double what really good articles +of the same style and place of origin could be +bought for in London. And, in addition to that, +by a system nothing short of robbery, each man +was charged two shillings and fourpence for every +rupee he drew against his hardly earned wages, +while at that time the rupee was quoted officially +at one shilling and eightpence. Who pocketed +the eightpence, I do not know; but I shrewdly +suspect that it was considered, like the backsheesh<span class="pagenum">[212]</span> +levied from the tailor and the bumboat-wallah, the +captain's legitimate perquisite. I have known a +captain pocket fifty rupees off a bumboat bill of +two hundred and fifty, and, of course, the keen-witted +Hindu based his charges to the men on the +expectation of such a tax; so that Jack was +robbed on every hand, unless he sternly made up +his mind to spend nothing "in the country." And, +as not one in a hundred sailors have such resolution +as that, there are some very pretty pickings out +of their scanty wages.</p> + +<p>The time sped swiftly away, and soon the coal +was all out and most of the stone ballast in. No +cargo was obtainable for us in Bombay, so we were +ordered to proceed to Bimliapatam on the Coromandel +coast, and after that to Coconada to complete. +But, before our departure, the time-honoured +custom of giving the crew twenty-four +hours' liberty must be observed. Consequently +the mate's watch duly received twenty rupees each, +and, dressed in their best, started for the shore one +morning at eight o'clock. All of them returned +the following morning except Bradley, the hirsute +Bluenose who lost my fish for me on the passage +out. But oh! what a pitiful, dirty, draggled lot +they were. And, in spite of their miserable condition, +they must needs get up several fights among +themselves in order to crown the delights they had +been indulging in ashore. It was quite out of the +question to allow the second mate's watch ashore +that day; and this decision nearly caused our first +serious row, so eager were the other half of the +crew to go and do even as their fellows had done.<span class="pagenum">[213]</span> +But as there was nothing to prevent the petty officers +going, they all furbished up and started, taking +us two boys with them. My chum Bill Smith +was of the party; but as soon as we landed he went +off with me, being far too old a hand to be led +by anybody. Of course, poor fellow! having no +wages, he had contrived to earn a little by washing, +etc., and every copper was carefully hoarded +for the Bombay bazaars, where, he informed me, +better bargains in clothes could be got than anywhere +in London. Up and down the crowded +lanes of the bazaar he led me, driving away with +contumely the pilots who offered to personally +conduct us for a consideration, and fingering the +goods of the various shopkeepers with the air of +one who is bursting with wealth. At last, finding +a booth to his mind, he entered, and forthwith +selected a great heap of things: such as soldier's +trousers, woollen shirts, dungaree jumpers and +trousers, towels, caps, soap—in fact, a regular outfit. +At last the middle-aged Mussulman who ran +the show began to look suspicious, and said, "You +got plenty rupee, Johnny?" "I've got all I want, +Johnny," said he. "Gimme jar o' ginger. <i>Ginger</i>, +mind; none o' yer m'lasses." The ginger was +brought and added to the heap. Then Bill said, +"Now, then, Johnny, how much for the lot?" A +portentous calculation ensued, which occupied, I +should think, twenty minutes. At last the account +was made up—forty-five rupees. Without +moving a muscle of his face, Bill immediately replied, +"I'll give you ten." Horror, amazement, indignation, +chased one another over the counte<span class="pagenum">[214]</span>nances +of the shopkeepers. At last one of them +found words. "You make plenty laugh, Johnny; +speakee barabba one time. Gib forty rupee." +"Not another pice," said Bill, pulling out his +money and counting it ostentatiously. Well, the +antics those two natives did cut, to be sure! They +worked themselves up into a foaming rage, they +cast their turbans recklessly in the dust; in such +English as they could command they reviled their +tormentor and all his relations to the remotest +degree, and finally came down to thirty rupees. +That, they swore with sudden solemnity, was absolutely +the bottom figure, at which they would +lose at least five rupees on the transaction. "Oh, +very well," said Bill, "then I'm off." And, rising, +he said, "Come along, Tom." Out we went, and +strolled leisurely along the alley for about a hundred +yards, when suddenly one of the merchants +came flying after us, and, with many smiles, besought +Bill to return and "speakee barabba" now. +Back we went, and the game began again. I got +thoroughly weary of it at last; but Bill's patience +was inexhaustible. He was rewarded, finally, by +their absolute submission to his terms, when, to +my consternation, he refused to have the goods +unless they gave him a large bottle of pepper as +backsheesh. Surely, I thought, this will so disgust +them that they will assault us. But no; after +another quarter of an hour's haggling they yielded +the last point, and, laden like a sumpter mule, Bill +took his triumphant departure.</p> + +<p>By this time I had seen more than enough of +the steaming hubbub of the bazaars. But Bill had<span class="pagenum">[215]</span> +more business to transact; so we parted company; +and I wandered away alone, gazing with wide-eyed +wonder at the innumerable strange sights to be +seen in this great humming city. No one molested +me, although many curious glances were +cast at me by groups of languid natives, of all +shades, as I trudged along without any definite +idea whither I was going. At last, utterly weary, +I found myself down at the water's edge again. +The afternoon was getting on, and I should soon +have to return on board; but as I had still two +rupees, I thought I would like a trip up the harbour +to Mazagan, or beyond it. Full of my project, +I chartered a canoe with two men in it to take +me for a sail, bargaining, as well as I was able, in +my ignorance of the language, for a two hours' sail, +ending on board my ship. We started, and, for +perhaps half an hour, I thoroughly enjoyed myself, +as the canoe glided along right up past the +P. and O. moorings and the Arsenal. Then, when +we were clear of the shipping, my boatmen suddenly +stopped and began an animated discussion +with me, which was somewhat complicated by the +fact that neither of us understood the other. +Eventually I became convinced that they wanted +more money, and their previously mild behaviour +grew certainly more aggressive. I felt very nervous, +but struggled to conceal the fact, speaking +boldly, as if accustomed to be obeyed. Finally I +produced my money, and turned my pockets inside +out to show that I had no more. Upon seeing this +they held a long conversation, during which the +canoe drifted idly and I sat upon thorns. At last,<span class="pagenum">[216]</span> +much to my relief, they turned the boat's head towards +the anchorage again, and, without another +word, paddled homeward. Arriving at about a +cable's length from the ship they stopped, and demanded +their money. But I, having seen the stalwart +figure of the mate standing on the forecastle +head, stood up, and, with all the voice I could muster, +shouted, "<i>Western Belle</i>, ahoy!" Mr. Edny +heard me and waved his hand. This move on my +part evidently disconcerted them, and they paddled +vigorously for the gangway. As soon as the +canoe touched the side, I sprang up and told Mr. +Edny what had happened. He asked me what I +had promised them. I told him one rupee. Taking +eight annas from me, he went down the gangway +and offered it to them. When they set up a +perfect storm of protests, he just pitched the piece +of money into the canoe and pushed it away from +the side, returning on board without taking any +further notice. Needless to say, I was heartily +thankful to be well out of what at one time looked +like an ugly scrape.</p> + +<p>Next morning the liberty men returned on +board in the usual condition, but Bradley was not +with them. That night, however, he paid us a +visit by stealth, coming up the cable and rifling +several of his shipmates' chests of whatever was +worth carrying off. Then he went ashore again +unperceived, showing what a very slack watch was +kept. There was consternation in the forecastle +when the robbery was discovered, and a good deal +of wild talk; but Bradley was something of a +"bucko," and I very much doubt whether any of<span class="pagenum">[217]</span> +them would have said much to him had he been +there in person. Three days longer we remained +at anchor, although apparently quite ready for sea. +On the second morning Bradley returned, and +climbing on board, walked aft and coolly asked the +mate for a rupee to pay his boatman with. Being +curtly refused and ordered forward, he stripped off +the filthy white shirt he was wearing, and rolling +it up, flung it over to the dinghy-wallah, bidding +him to "Kinnaree jao, jildee" (get ashore quick). +With this the poor beggar was perforce content, +making off hurriedly. Bradley then made for his +bunk, saying no word to any one until the afternoon, +when he bade Julius Cæsar go and tell the +skipper that he was very ill. This message actually +made the old man angry. He came forward +and gave the defaulter a piece of his mind; but being +evidently impressed by the look of the man, +who had been gutter-raking in all the filth of +"coolie town" for three days, he sent for the harbour +doctor. That worthy, after examination, +gave it as his opinion that there was nothing the +matter with the fellow but bad gin and want of +food, assuring the skipper that he would be all +right as soon as we got to sea.</p> + +<p>Next morning we got under way and sailed, +not without another protest from Bradley, of +which no notice was taken, as the medical officer, +who was then paying his final visit, adhered to his +opinion. We took a favourable wind at the harbour's +mouth, and slid gently down the coast +under easy sail, the vessel being "tender" from +scanty allowance of ballast. But the weather was<span class="pagenum">[218]</span> +lovely, the wind fair, and everything promised a +delightful trip. Bradley, however, steadily got +worse. Presently an angry-looking eruption of +pimples burst out all over his body, even the inside +of his mouth being invaded. Then my purgatory +commenced. No one would have anything to do +with him, although he was quite helpless. He was +shifted out of the forecastle up on to the forecastle-head, +and a sort of tent rigged over him to keep +the sun off. Then I was told off to attend to him. +The horror of that time will never leave me. He +was, as I have before noted, with the exception of +the mate, the most hairy man I ever saw, the black +shaggy covering of his arms and legs being at least +an inch and a half long, while his chest and back +were more like a great ape's than a man's. Therefore, +when all those pimples grew until they were +large as a finger-top, and so close together that +not a speck of sound flesh was visible, the task of +washing him, which I had to perform alone, was +really an awful one. I must draw a veil over the +further development of those horrible pustules.... +Happily for the patient he became delirious and apparently +insensible to pain. How I kept my reason +I don't know; but I thought, and still think, +that it was a frightful ordeal for a youngster under +fourteen to endure for a whole week. I had nothing +else to do; no relief, except my ordinary watch +below, during which he was left quite alone. On +the eleventh day after leaving Bombay we entered +Bimliapatam Roads, and just as we did so death +mercifully came to his rescue and mine. The carpenter +botched up a rough coffin, into which the<span class="pagenum">[219]</span> +unrecognizable heap, with all its bedding, was hurriedly +bundled, taken ashore, and buried at the +foot of the flagstaff without any ceremony whatever. +No one seemed to know what the disease +had been; but I can only say that having seen +lepers in all stages of disfigurement, and many +other cases of terrible pestilential ravages, I have +never seen anything so awful as the case of William +Bradley.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[220]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">ON THE COROMANDEL COAST.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Freed</span> from that horrible incubus, I had now +leisure to look about and enjoy the varied scenes +that presented themselves. The place we were +lying at was, I suppose, a typical native coast village, +a big hill facing the anchorage having a rock-hewn +temple upon its sea-front. There was no +harbour or shelter of any kind, so that vessels lay +all ready for sea in case of bad weather setting in. +All cargo was brought off in the crazy "massulah" +boats, which have been so often described by +visitors to Madras, and are the only craft able to +stand the rough usage of the surf-beaten beach. +The fishermen went out on primitive contrivances +of three logs lashed together without any attempt +at hollowing out or fashioning bow and stern. +Kneeling upon the two outer logs in the centre of +the crazy thing, the poor wretch would paddle seaward +until out of sight, his sole equipment a palm-leaf +basket secured just in front of him, and containing +his fishing-tackle. Neither food nor water +could be carried, yet in this miserable condition +they would remain out for many hours, at the +mercy of every wave that came along, and often +being rolled over several times in succession. The<span class="pagenum">[221]</span> +catches of fish they made were always pitifully +small, it seemed to me, sometimes consisting of +only a couple of dozen large prawns, though how +they caught <i>them</i> out there was a mystery to me.</p> + +<p>Our cargo was an assorted one. Jaggery, or +palm sugar—looking like bags of black mud, and +almost as nice to handle,—buffalo horns and hides, +cases of castor oil, bags of myrabolums (a kind of +dye-nut), and sundry other queer things came off +to us in small quantities at a time, and were flung +on board in a most haphazard fashion, owing to +the constant swell, which made the boats tumble +about alongside vivaciously. All the stowage was +done by the crew under the direction of Jemmy the +Scrubber, who proved himself as capable a stevedore +as he was a seaman. No one went ashore except +the skipper while we lay there, and he would +gladly have avoided the necessity, if possible, since +it usually meant a thorough drenching. On the +whole, we were by no means sorry when the news +came that we were to leave and proceed down the +coast to Coconada. As we were always ready to +sail, there were none of the usual preliminaries; we +just hauled in the fenders, hove the anchor up, +and started. Here our skipper's local knowledge +was of great service. For we hugged the coast +closely all the way down, keeping a favourable +wind, which brought us into Coconada Bay in a +few hours, while the <i>Andromeda</i>, a big Liverpool +ship that sailed at the same time for the same port, +stood off the land, got into bad weather, and did +not arrive for twenty-eight days. She had also +sustained severe damage to both ship and cargo.<span class="pagenum">[222]</span></p> + +<p>While Coconada was evidently a much more +important place than Bimliapatam, we saw nothing +of the town, for we lay a long way off in the centre +of a huge bay. We were near enough, though, to +hear the various cries of the wild beasts, among +which the hideous noise of the hyenas was especially +noticeable. Our unhappy painter, who had +remained in Bombay hospital during the whole of +our stay there, was again so ill that he had to be +landed here. But, getting convalescent, he and a +fellow patient went for a stroll one day, and, wandering +out of the town, they met a hyena. Barber +was so scared that he fainted right away, but the +other man found sufficient vitality to scramble up +a tree. He had not got very high, though, before +weakness overcame him, and he fell, breaking his +leg. When Barber came to there was no trace of +the hyena, but he and his fellow were in a pitiable +plight. There they would doubtless have stopped, +and had their bones picked clean by the morning, +but for a party of friendly coolies who came along, +and, seeing their condition, fetched a couple of +"palkees" and carried them back to hospital +again.</p> + +<p>Here, then, we remained for three weeks, filling +the hold with a miscellaneous collection of Indian +produce, of which cotton, linseed, and myrabolums +formed the staple, until the great capacity of our +ship for cargo was effectually satisfied, and she was +jammed full to the hatch coamings. Then all +hands, released from their stifling labours below, +bent their energies to getting ready for sea. +Meanwhile, although our crew were certainly a<span class="pagenum">[223]</span> +most patient set of men, their discontent at the +short-handedness, which ever since leaving home +had pressed so hardly upon us all, gathered to a +head, culminating in a visit of all hands to the +quarter-deck with a request to see the skipper. +Genial as ever, Captain Smith appeared, his ruddy +face wearing an expression of benign wonderment +at the unusual summons. "Well, what is it, +men?" said he. Then stepped forward an elderly +Yankee, who had been a bo'sun's mate in the +American navy, a shrewd, intelligent man with a +rich fund of native humour, and a prime favourite +fore and aft. "We've taken the libbaty, sir, ov +comin' aft t'ask ye ef it's yeur intenshun ter sail +'thout shippin' enny more hands?" was his reply. +"Well, in the first place, Nat," answered the skipper, +"there's no hands ter be got here, an' besides, +in sech a easy-workin' ship as this is, there's no +hardship in bein' a cupple o' hands short." "The +good Lawd fergive ye, sir!" exclaimed Nat; "ef +thishyers a heasy-workin' ship, what mout ye +reckon a <i>hard</i>-workin' one 'ud be like? Why, +cap'n, it takes two men to haul thro' the slack ov +th' braces, an' it's all a man's work to overhaul the +gear of a to'gantsle. 'Sides, sir, yew know it takes +all hands to shorten her down to the taupsles, 'n +what we k'n do with her in a squall—well, I hain't +fergot thet plesant evenin' off the Cape, ef yew +have." At this vigorous reply the old man could +only laugh to show his appreciation of the home-thrusts +it contained, but with native shrewdness +he changed his base, still preserving his cheery +good temper. "Mind ye, I don't say we ain't<span class="pagenum">[224]</span> +short-handed," he said—"very short-handed; but +we're gettin' out ov the Bay o' Bengal 'fore the +sou-west monsoon sets in, 'n yew know 's well 's +me that it's fine weather 'mos' all the way ter the +Cape once we cross the line. 'N if we git enny dirt +offn the Cape I'll keep her under easy sail, 'n let +the 'Gulhas current sweep her roun', 'n then we'll +jest be home in no time. Yew leav' it t' me. We +hain't been eight months together 'thout knowin' +each other, 'n yew all know yew k'n depend on me +to do the best I k'n ter make ye comfortable. But +I <i>can't</i> get any hands in this God-forsaken place if +we only had two left forrard." That speech settled +it. If Captain Smith had been an irritable +man, inclined to put on airs of outraged dignity +because his crew asked him a perfectly reasonable +question, and to rate them like a set of fractious +children, there would have been an instant refusal +of duty on the part of the men, followed by much +suffering and loss on both sides, for the chaps were +thoroughly in earnest. But the skipper's frank +good-humour and acceptance of the situation disarmed +them, and they returned forward with minds +made up to see the voyage out as best they could. +Next day we weighed anchor and sailed for London, +the windlass revolving to the time-honoured +tune of "Good-bye, fare-you-well; hurrah, my +boys, we're homeward bound."</p> + +<p>Just prior to our departure we received on +board some two or three hundred fowls and two +goats, which, added to about twenty pigs—mostly +bred on board, two large dogs, two monkeys, sundry +parrots and two cats, made the ship bear no<span class="pagenum">[225]</span> +bad resemblance to Noah's Ark. None of these +animals had any settled abiding place; they just +roamed about the decks whithersoever they would, +except on the sacred precincts of the poop, which +were faithfully guarded by one of the dogs, who +allowed no intrusion by any of the grunting, clucking, +or chattering crowd. But this state of things +was a great trial to all concerned. For one of the +cardinal necessities of British or American ships is +cleanliness, which is secured by copious floods of +salt water, and vigorous scrubbing every morning. +Under present conditions keeping the vessel clean +was manifestly impossible, the crowd of animals +even invading the men's quarters, as well as every +nook into which they could possibly squeeze themselves. +There was a great deal of dissatisfaction +forward at this state of things, and fowls were continually +flying overboard, being chased and smitten +by angry men, who found everything under +their hands befouled and stinking. Still the nuisance +was unabated until we were ten days out. +Just off Cape Comorin we got our first stiff breeze +of the homeward passage, and very soon, in accordance +with her invariable custom, the old ship began +to take sufficient water over the rail to flood +the decks fore and aft. Then there was a commotion +in the farmyard. The watch, up to their +waists in water, splashed about collecting the +squawking chickens, and driving the bewildered +swine into a temporary shelter, rigged up under +the topgallant forecastle. Next morning at least +four dozen dead fowls were flung overboard, in addition +to many that had fled blindly into the sea<span class="pagenum">[226]</span> +on the previous day. This loss so disgusted the +skipper that he ordered all hands to be fed on poultry +until the stock was exhausted. At first this +benevolent (?) command gave a good deal of delight, +but when the miserable, leathery carcases, +boiled in salt water, unclean and unsavory, were +brought into the forecastle, there was almost a +riot. A deputation waited upon the captain to +protest and demand their proper rations of "salt +horse." They were received by the skipper with +a very ill grace, and the usual senseless remarks +about sailors' fastidiousness in the matter of food +were freely indulged in by the "old man," who +seemed quite out of temper. We got no more +Coromandel poultry, though, which was a blessing, +albeit they were served up to the cabin as +usual. Being prepared in a civilized fashion, I +suppose, the officers found them eatable. But in +various ways the flock of fowls diminished rapidly, +much to our relief, and gradually the decks began +to assume their normal cleanliness. The pigs, +numerous as they were, could be kept within +bounds forward; in fact, the dogs rarely permitted +them to come abaft the foremast. As for the two +goats, they grew so mischievous, gnawing the +ends of all the ropes, and nibbling at everything +except iron, that orders for their execution went +forth, and since no one would eat them, their +bodies were flung overboard.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[227]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">HOMEWARD TO LONDON.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> Captain Smith had foretold, we were having +an exceedingly fine-weather passage. All the +way down the Indian Ocean we were favoured with +pleasant breezes, fair for our course, and glorious +weather. Every care was taken to make the work +as light as possible for the small crew, although we +in the starboard watch were sorely exasperated by +the second mate's devotion to sand and canvas—a +mania that had given him his well-earned sobriquet +of "Jemmy the Scrubber." If he could only have +his watch slopping about with a few buckets of +sand and rags of old canvas, rubbing away at the +dingy interior of the bulwarks, that with all his attentions +never <i>would</i> look white, he was in his +glory. But oh! how we did hate the messy, fiddling +abomination. It made our discontent the +greater to notice that the mate's watch scarcely +ever touched it. Like a sensible man, Mr. Edny +preferred to have one thoroughly good scrub down +at lengthy intervals, going over the whole of the +paint in one day, to scratching like a broody hen, +first here and then there, in patches, and never +making a decent job after all. It kept the watch +in a chronic state of growl, which was only pre<span class="pagenum">[228]</span>vented +from breaking out into downright rebellion +by the knowledge that the second mate was always +in hot water aft, although, owing to his seven +years' service in the ship, the skipper and mate allowed +him to have pretty much his own way. +Apart from this, things went on smoothly enough. +Many a time did Jemmy, with only such assistance +as Bill and I could give him, set and take in the +lighter sails without disturbing the rest of the +watch, who were fast asleep in their several bunks. +They knew this well, and consequently never +turned out, even upon the most urgent necessity, +without a chorus of growls at the second mate, although +he never took the slightest notice of them.</p> + +<p>So we slowly lumbered homeward in uneventful +monotony, until one morning we made the land +about East London, and congratulated ourselves +that we were near the southern limit of our journey +home. Still the weather was kind to us. No envious +southerly gale battered us back from the +Cape we were striving to get round, and presently +we found ourselves in the embrace of the great +Agulhas current that for ever sets steadily round +the Cape westward. Homeward bounders have +reason to rejoice when they enter the limits of this +mighty marine river, for, in spite of contrary winds +or calms, they are irresistibly carried on the way +they would go at a rate that is the same for the +bluff-bowed sea-waggon as for the ocean-flyer. +And one day, to my intense delight—for I had +heard a tale from Bill—the wind died completely +away and the water became as smooth as a mirror. +Every bit of line in the ship that could by any<span class="pagenum">[229]</span> +possibility serve as a fishing-line was ferreted out, +and fishing commenced. At first only the favoured +few, whose lines were fifty or sixty fathoms +long, got a look in, bringing up from the bank +far below us some magnificent specimens of cod. +Then, as the fish followed their disappearing comrades +up, the shorter lines came into play, and the +fun became general. It was a regular orgie of +fishing. At least three hundred splendid fish of +various kinds, but chiefly cod, rewarded our efforts, +the subsequent feast being something to date from. +Better still, the weather being cool, we were able +to salt down a large quantity for use later on, so +that we had fish for nearly a month afterwards. +After about eight hours of this calm a gentle +south-easterly breeze sprang up, which persisted +and strengthened, until, with the dim outlines of +the high land behind the Cape of Good Hope on +our starboard quarter, we were bowling cheerily +along under every rag we could muster, our head +pointing north-north-west, homeward-bound indeed.</p> + +<p>Then the work that must be undertaken in +every respectable ship on the "home-stretch" +came with a rush. Setting up rigging, rattling +down, general overhaul of running and standing +gear, chipping iron-work and painting it with +red lead, scraping bright woodwork, etc., etc., kept +us all busy, although we were allowed watch and +watch all along. In most ships it is the custom +while in the south-east trades, homeward-bound, +to give no afternoon watch below in order that +the bulk of the "redding-up" may be done before<span class="pagenum">[230]</span> +crossing the line. But for several reasons our +skipper did not think it advisable to tax his scanty +crew too much. As for attendance on the sails, +we might have been a steamship for all the work +of that kind required—the "south-east trades" +being notoriously steady and reliable in the Atlantic, +while the north-east trades are often entirely +wanting. So we had trades, from the Cape to +the line, that did not vary a point in force or +direction for three weeks; and, if she would +have steered herself, she could have made that +part of the passage unmanned. The time literally +flew by, being delightfully punctuated every Sunday +by a glorious feed of roast pig—two of our +large stock of home-bred porkers being sacrificed +each Saturday, and fairly apportioned among all +hands.</p> + +<p>St. Helena was sighted ten days after losing +sight of the African land—a huge black mass, towering +to an enormous height, as it seemed to me. +We approached it very closely, purposing to report +ourselves there, but not to anchor. Coming +round under the huge crags of the southern end +with all sail set, we had a splendid view of the +cliffs, rising sheer from the sea, whereon the gliding +shadow of our ship was cast in almost perfect +resemblance. Who was responsible for the neglect, +I do not know, but suddenly down a gorge +in the mountain rushed a fierce blast almost at +right angles to the wind we were carrying, and +making the canvas shake and flap with a thunderous +noise. There was a great bustle to get sail off +her, but unfortunately she paid off rather smartly,<span class="pagenum">[231]</span> +and <i>crack</i> went the mizzen-topmast before the sails +came down. A piece of gross carelessness! for no +coast of that kind should ever be approached under +sail without all due precautions for shortening +down. Neglect of such preparation has +caused the loss of many a fine ship and countless +boats, with appalling sacrifice of life. It was +the only spar we lost during the whole of that +voyage.</p> + +<p>By the time we had got the kites off her we +had opened out the great gorge, in which, as if it +had been dropped from the cliffs above, lies the +town, the houses appearing curiously jumbled together. +We were so close in that the great ladder, +credited, I believe, with a rung for every day in +the year, which leads up on to the cliffs from the +town, was plainly visible. Only one ship, the +<i>Noach VIII.</i>, of Rotterdam, one of the regular old +Dutch East Indiamen from Java, was at anchor, +for even then the prosperous days of St. Helena +as a sort of ocean "half-way house" had departed, +never to return. We spelt out our name and +ports of departure and destination with the length +of passage, our information being duly acknowledged +from the flag-staff. In a few minutes more +we were again in the grip of our faithful friend the +south-east trade, and feeling that another important +milestone was passed on our long journey. +Placidly, equably, we jogged on, four days afterwards +sighting and signalling to the barren volcano-scarred +island of Ascension, the exclusive +domain of men-o'-war, for whose behalf a large +naval establishment is maintained in highest effi<span class="pagenum">[232]</span>ciency. +Another landmark left behind. Onward +we sped with freshening trades and increasing +speed until we were actually in eight degrees +north latitude, so kindly had the fair wind we took +off the pitch of the Cape favoured us. But our +good fortune still held. Instead of at least a week +of the detestable doldrums we fully expected, we +had only one day's detention before the north-east +trades swept down upon us, and away we went, +braced sharp up on the starboard tack to the +north-westward. And now for a while, all the +tarry work being done, all hands were transformed +into painters, and varnishers. Within and without +also, as far as the wash of the sea alongside +would allow, we painted and polished, until the +grimy, once shabby old packet looked quite smart +and shining. The second mate was right in his +element. He begrudged himself necessary rest, +and often looked angrily at the sun when setting, +as if he felt he was being defrauded out of a few +minutes more of his beloved labour. Never surely +was there a man who loved work for its own sake +better than he. Never had a ship a more energetic +seamanlike officer. Yet he was by no means +appreciated aft, although his worth was undeniable. +And as so often happens, he was doomed +to be a junior officer all his life, for he could not do +the simplest problem in navigation without making +the most ludicrous mistakes. However he +"passed" for second mate was a mystery known +only to the examiners. Mainly, I believe, by his +untiring efforts, all our painting operations were +successfully completed before we reached the<span class="pagenum">[233]</span> +northern verge of the tropic, where changeable +weather began to appear. But, when once the +paint was on, he was like a hen with one chick. +His eager eye was ever on the watch for any unfortunate +who should dare to sully the whiteness +of the bulwarks within, or heave anything overboard +carelessly that might mark the glossy blackness +outside. But his great carnival was yet to +come. One morning shortly after four, under his +directions, I lugged up from the fore-peak a number +of lumps of sandstone, which he busied himself +till daylight in shaping into sizable blocks, while I +pounded the smaller pieces into sand. Promptly +at four bells the watch were gathered aft, and +"holystoning" commenced. This delightful pastime +consists of rubbing the decks, along the grain +of the wood, with blocks of sandstone, the process +being assisted by scattered sand and water. For +three days the decks were in a continual muck of +muddy sand, and Jemmy's face wore a steady, +beaming smile. When, at last, all the grit was +flooded away, the result was dazzling. The decks +were really beautiful in their spotless cleanliness. +Then, to my unbounded amazement, no sooner +were they dry, than a vile mixture of varnish, oil, +and coal-tar, was boiled in an impromptu furnace +on deck, and with this hideous compost the spotless +planks were liberally besmeared. I felt personally +aggrieved. "Why"—I could not help +asking my chum Bill—"why, in the name of goodness +all this back-breaking holystoning only to +plaster such a foul mess on the decks immediately +afterward?" "Preserves the wood," was the sen<span class="pagenum">[234]</span>tentious +reply, and it was all the answer I could +get. Certainly the poop was varnished only, +which made it a golden hue until the first water +was poured on it. After that it always looked as +if a lot of soapsuds had been poured over it and +left to dry.</p> + +<p>But with this final outrage on common sense, +as I couldn't help considering it, our ship-decorating +came to an end. Henceforth the chief object +in view apparently was to preserve, as far as possible, +the spick and span appearance of the vessel +until she reached home. Those beautiful decks, +especially, were the objects of Jemmy's constant +solicitude. He found some nail-marks one day +left by somebody's boots, and one would have +thought the ship had sprung a leak like a well-mouth +by the outcry he made. As far as possible +work was confined to the fore part of the ship, and +beside the ordinary routine little was done but the +plaiting of rope yarns into sennit—always a kill-time. +But we were now so far north that the variable +weather of the North Atlantic began to give +us plenty of occupation in the working of the ship. +Fortunately we were not long delayed by contrary +winds. The brave westerlies came to our assistance, +driving us along in fine style and at increasing +speed, until one day through the driving +mist we sighted Corvo, one of the northern +outposts of the Azores. It was fortunate that we +did so, for thenceforward thickening weather and +overcast skies prevented any observation of the +heavenly bodies, and "dead reckoning" was our +only means of knowing the ship's position. Now<span class="pagenum">[235]</span> +Captain Smith, though thoroughly at home on the +Indian coasts, had a great dread of his own shores, +and as the distance from land grew less he became +exceedingly nervous, until at last, when by +his estimate we were well up Channel, he dared no +longer run as fast as the following gale would have +driven him, but shortened sail, much to every one +else's disgust. Ship after ship came up astern, +passed us, and sped away homewards, while we +dawdled through those crowded waters, running +the risk of the fair wind blowing itself out +before we had gained our port. Before we had +sighted land or light it came down a thick +fog—a regular Channel fret—which is a condition +of things dreaded by all seamen on our +dangerous coasts. We hove-to, keeping the foghorn +going with its melancholy bray. Thus for +six mortal hours we lay helplessly tossing in the +fairway, listening to the miserable discord of foghorns, +syrens, and whistles, but unable to see the +ship's length away from us. The anxiety was exceedingly +great, for at any moment we were liable +to be run down by something or another, whose +commander was more venturesome than ours. +Suddenly out of the gloom came a hoarse hail, +"D'ye want a pilot, sir?" A sweeter sound was +never heard. Without a moment's hesitation the +old man replied, "Yes, where are you?" He had +hardly spoken before the dim outlines of a lugger +came into view close alongside. "Are you a +Trinity pilot?" asked the skipper. "No, sir, but +I can run you up to him," replied the voice. +"How much?" queried the captain. "Five<span class="pagenum">[236]</span> +pounds, sir!" came promptly back. "All right, +come aboard!" said the old man, and all hands +crowded to the side to see our deliverer from suspense. +"Heave us a line, please, sir!" came up +from the darkness, where we could see the shadowy +form of the big boat tossing and tumbling in the +heavy sea. The main brace was flung out to her, +and, as she sheered in towards us, a black bundle +seemed to hurl itself at us, and in a few seconds it +stood erect and dripping on deck—a man swathed +in oilskins till he looked like a mummy. Only +pausing to dash the water out of his eyes, he shouted, +"Square the mainyard!" and walking aft to +the helmsman ordered him to "Keep her away." +A minute before all had been miserable in the extreme, +and the bitter gale roaring overhead seemed +to be withering all the life out of us. But what a +change! The man seemed to have brought fine +weather with him; the perfect confidence that +every one had in him dispelling every gloomy +thought. The lesson of that little episode, so +commonplace, yet so full of instruction, has never +been forgotten by me. It is so palpable that I +dare not enlarge upon it.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile one of the lugger's crew had followed +his chief, and was busy begging tobacco, +meat, and anything else the steward could find to +part with. When he had got all he could, the +lugger sheered in again, and he tumbled back on +board with his booty. Very soon the fog cleared +away, and as soon as it did so we saw the light on +Dungeness close aboard. We ran up to the pilot's +cruising ground and hove-to, burning a blue light<span class="pagenum">[237]</span> +as a signal, while our friendly hoveller pocketed his +five pounds and departed, well pleased with his +four hours' earnings. These men get called some +very hard names, and may perhaps occasionally deserve +them; but as long as sailing-ships exist they +will be found, as we undoubtedly found one, a very +present help in time of need, and the salvation of +many a fine ship.</p> + +<p>The Trinity pilot was some time making his +appearance, for there were many ships about, and +we must needs wait our turn. But in due time we +were supplied, the yards were again squared, and +away we went around the Foreland. Presently +there was a welcome sound of paddle-wheels, and +up came a tug anxious for the job of towing us up +to London. But our captain's Scotch economy +forbade him to take steam while there was so +much fair wind going for nothing; and the subsequent +haggling was almost as protracted as Bill's +celebrated feat in Bombay. At last, after two or +three departures of the tug in fits of irritation, a +bargain was struck, and the ever-welcome command +came pealing forward, "Get the hawser +along!" No need to call all hands. Everybody +came on the jump, and that mighty rope was handled +as if it had been a lead-line. In a wonderfully +short time the end was passed to the tug, a severe +turn was taken with our end round the windlass +bitts, and with what the sailor calls "a fair wind +ahead," we went spinning up through the intricate +channels of the Thames estuary. All hands worked +with a will to get the sails clewed up and unbent +from the yards, as it was now daylight. Such a<span class="pagenum">[238]</span> +morning's work had not been done on board for +many a day, for was not the end of the voyage here. +As for me, I was continually in hot water, for I +could not keep my eyes off the wonderful scenes +through which we were passing. It was my first +home-coming to London by sea, and on the two +previous occasions of leaving, I had either no heart +to look about me or I had come down at night. +Just stopping at Gravesend long enough to exchange +pilots, since the sea-pilot never takes a ship +into dock, we sped onward again, the tug straining +every nerve to save the tide. Soon everything +was ready for docking, and all hands were allowed +to "stand by," resting until we should reach +Blackwall.</p> + +<p>The East India Docks at last, with the usual +little group of expectant yet nonchalant officials +and the loafers in the background. Are we going +to dock at once, or will she tie up in the basin? As +anxiously as if docking was going to take a month +were these questions bandied about, so eager were +all the fellows to get ashore. Joy!—she is hauled +in to the side of the basin, made fast temporarily, +and the mate, with a merry twinkle in his eye, says +the closing benediction, "That'll do, men." By +this time the voracious crowd of boarding-masters' +runners, tailors' ditto, and unclassified scoundrels +were swarming on board (it was before the beneficent +regulations were passed forbidding these +gentry to board an in-coming ship), and the forecastle +was a perfect pandemonium. But one by +one the chaps emerged with their dunnage, and +were carried off in triumph by one or other of the<span class="pagenum">[239]</span> +sharks, until, the last one having gone, we of the +half-deck were left in peace. And now I <i>was</i> +home what was I going to do? I felt like a +stranger in a strange land, and it was with a sense +of great relief that I accepted an invitation to stay +by the ship for the present.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[240]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">A CHANGE OF NATIONALITY.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Much</span> as I longed for my liberty, the certain +sense of a home afforded by the ship was so comforting +that I was in considerable dread of the time +when, as I supposed, I should be paid off and sent +adrift like the rest of the crew. Therefore it was +with joy that I received the welcome news from +the mate that I might remain and work by the +ship, and that my wages would be fourteen shillings +a week, out of which I was to keep myself. +The future, which had begun to worry me greatly +with its possibilities of misfortune, owing to my +still insignificant size, now took a decidedly roseate +hue. My arch-enemy (as I considered him), the +second mate, became quite amiable, even condescending +to inform me that the plenteous kicks +and cuffs he had bestowed upon me had all been +prompted by a sincere desire for my best interests, +and that, before I was much older, I should thank +him heartily for his rigorous treatment. In this +latter prophecy he was grossly in error, for I have +never been able to find any excuse for the brutality +of a man to the helpless who chance to be in his +power, whether human or brute.</p> + +<p>Pay-day came and I received my account of<span class="pagenum">[241]</span> +wages, finding that I was entitled to nine golden +sovereigns. At the appointed hour I made my +way up the East India Dock-road to Green's +Home, where I foregathered with most of my shipmates, +who were dogged by villainous-looking +men as closely as if they were criminals out for an +airing. While waiting, they made frequent visits +to the public-house at the back of the office, which +fairly hummed with the accumulated rascality of +the neighbourhood. But for the danger of actions +for libel, I would tell some pretty little stories +of what I have seen in some of the highly respectable +(see evidence before the Licensing Committees) +liquor-shops in "sailor town." But I must +refrain, comforting myself with the knowledge that +such tales have already been better told elsewhere. +When at last my turn came, and I received that +little pile of gold—more money than I had ever +seen at one time before—I was almost afraid of +being the possessor of so much wealth. And +knowing well, as I did, the risk I ran if any one got +an inkling of my riches, did not lessen my fears. I +did not think of the Post Office, strange to say; +but, in a few minutes, formed a resolution to lay all +my money out in a stock of clothes—which, indeed, +I was urgently in need of—and depend upon +my weekly earnings from the ship to keep me. +The thought of losing my employment never +seems to have dawned upon me. Full of my project, +I started for Aldgate; but brought up sharply +at the Baths before I had gone a hundred yards. +A nice warm bath—what a luxury! In I went and +enjoyed myself immensely. In about half an hour<span class="pagenum">[242]</span> +I was out again and walking briskly westward, +when I stopped to make some trifling purchase—to +find my money gone, purse and all. On the instant +I turned and rushed back to the Baths, flew +past the doorkeeper, and up the corridor towards +the bath I had recently left. The door stood wide +open, and there was my purse on the seat, with the +money intact. I grabbed it and drew a long +breath, the first, it seemed to me, since I missed it. +Going out, I met an angry man at the door, who +was anxious to know what I thought I was up to, +and so on. A shilling assuaged all his curiosity +and lit up his lowering face with sudden smiles. +Clutching my purse, I made all the haste I could +to Messrs. Moses and Sons, arriving there with a +sigh of thankfulness. I didn't feel capable of owning +so much money, much less taking care of it. +A gorgeously attired individual strode forward +with an ironical air of courtesy as I entered, and, +bowing low, wished to know my pleasure. Ah! if +I was going to spend all my money, here was at +least a chance to taste the sweets of that power +which its possession brings. With all the hauteur +I could assume, I said, as I swelled my four feet +of stature in opposition to the shopwalker's majestic +presence, "I want an outfit, something plain +and substantial; say about nine or ten pounds." +And as I spoke I secretly emptied my purse in my +pocket, and drawing out a few sovereigns nonchalantly, +I passed them through my fingers and +dropped them into another pocket. Out of the +corner of my eye I watched my gentleman's face. +All his sarcastic attitude vanished, and for the time<span class="pagenum">[243]</span> +he was my obsequious, humble servant. But oh! +how shamelessly he made me pay for his attendance. +Even after this lapse of years I blush to +think how I was taken in—the shoddy rags which +I received for my gold, and the swelling pride with +which I ordered them to be sent down to <i>my</i> ship. +When I left the huge shop I felt quite an important +personage, although I had but five shillings +left out of my year's wages. Still, such as +they were, I had a complete stock of clothing, including +a chest and bedding, oilskins and sea-boots; +in fact, such an outfit as I had never owned +before. When I returned on board I informed +Bill of my purchases. He applauded my resolution, +but blamed me for not keeping a little money +in case of an emergency—he always did himself, he +said. For a fortnight, however, I found no reason +to regret my precipitate action. Then, on a +Saturday afternoon, came the stunning intelligence +that, as there was no more work to be done, +I was no longer wanted. Fortunately I had saved +enough out of my weekly wage to pay for a week's +board; so I immediately made my way to my old +boarding-house in the West India Dock-road, and +was received with open arms. I paid my twelve +shillings down manfully, telling the master that I +wanted a ship as soon as possible. After finding +out by cross-examination that I had been paid off +with nine pounds, he was much less cordial. In +fact, he grumbled a good deal; but finally promised +to do his best to get me a ship at once. Fortunately +(as I thought at the time), before the week +was out, I got a berth on board a large American<span class="pagenum">[244]</span> +ship—the <i>Pharos</i> of Boston, which was lying in +the South-West India Dock, loading general cargo +for Melbourne. As she was only about half full, I +begged permission to come and work on board for +my food, so that I should not get into debt at the +boarding-house. The mate, who engaged me, +readily granted my request; in fact, he seemed to +take no interest in the matter. So I took up my +quarters on board, becoming great friends immediately +with the amiable old mulatto steward, who, +besides being a most valuable servant, was a deeply +religious man according to his lights.</p> + +<p>And now my lines were cast in truly pleasant +places. I had heard of the good times enjoyed by +boys in American ships—such floating hells for +their crews as a rule—and my experiences at present +fully bore out the truth of my information. +But I very soon saw that all was not right on +board. The mate was utterly neglectful of the +cargo, spending most of his time tippling in his +berth with all sorts of visitors. The second mate, +a stalwart youth of twenty, busied himself constantly +with the rigging, studiously avoiding any +encroachment upon the mate's province of attending +to the shipment of the cargo. The captain +rarely appeared. He was a very old man, with an +awful scowl, and, although bearing himself erect, +and smart-looking, was evidently long past the +efficient performance of his duties. The only other +members of the crew on board were the carpenter, +a Finn of about sixty years of age, and the +cook, a garrulous Dane, who spent most of his +time yarning at the galley door with a huge knife<span class="pagenum">[245]</span> +in one hand as if it were his sceptre. A good deal +of drinking went on about that galley, and often at +knock-off time the stevedores had much ado to get +ashore, so drunk were they. At last the mate left—how +or why I do not know—and from thenceforward +no pretence was made of tallying in the cargo +at all. Not until three days before she was advertised +to sail did we get another mate, a prim little +man, who had been long master of English ships, +and looked like a fish out of water on board the +<i>Pharos</i>.</p> + +<p>Shipping day came, and, leaving the second +mate, steward, and carpenter (who were on the +original articles) on board, the rest of us went +down to a shop in Ratcliff Highway to "sign on." +It was a Jew tailor's, of all places in the world, and +never shall I forget my astonishment at the sight +it presented. When we got there the shop was +full of as motley a crowd of scallawags as one could +collect anywhere. Apparently they were shipping +in some other American ship, from the scraps of +conversation I heard. Presently one of the fellows +asked a question of the sturdy-looking Israelite +behind the counter. Looking up from his +book, that worthy said fiercely, "Get out!" The +man hesitated, and muttered some reply. With a +howl like an enraged tiger the tailor snatched up +a pair of shears and sprang over the counter after +him. There was a regular scuffle among the +crowd for a few seconds, as the thoroughly scared +candidate rushed for the door, just succeeding in +making his escape as the vengeful Jew reached the +pavement. In another second the tailor was back<span class="pagenum">[246]</span> +at his book as if nothing had happened. But I +noticed that nobody asked any more questions, except +one man, whom I took to be the captain of +the ship signing on. After some little confusion +the first crowd took their departure, and another +assortment took their places, ready to sign in +the <i>Pharos</i>. The whole proceedings were an utter +farce, though with a semblance of legality; but +what surprised me most of all was that each man +received, whether he wanted it or not, two months' +advance in the form of a promissory note, payable +at this shop three days after the ship left Gravesend. +Only three out of the whole crowd signed +their names, the rest modestly made their mark, +and the tailor wrote down such fantastic designations +as his fancy suggested. Then one of his assistants +marshalled us all together like a flock of +sheep, and convoyed us to the office of the American +Consul-General in the city, where, in wholesale +fashion, we were made citizens of the United +States of America. The ceremony was no sooner +over than we were told to go, but sharply reminded +of the hour of sailing. Our guide mysteriously +disappeared, leaving us to find our way back to +sailor-town as best we could.</p> + +<p>To my surprise and gratification I found myself +shipped as an ordinary seaman, at thirty shillings +per month, three pounds of which I already +held in the form of a "promise to pay." I immediately +hastened to my boarding-house to get the +said paper converted into money, but, as I didn't +owe him anything, the master refused to touch it, +and further favoured me with his opinion that I<span class="pagenum">[247]</span> +shouldn't find anybody who would give me more +than ten shillings for it. Somewhat alarmed at +this, I hurried to various places where they professed +to discount seamen's advance notes, finding +to my amazement, that he had spoken the truth. +Then I suddenly remembered an old acquaintance +with whom I had become friendly, and who, being +a tradesman, might be able to change my note. +Off to him I hurried, finding him both able and +willing; so I got my three pounds in full. But I +afterwards learnt that the highest amount any of +the sailors had been able to get for their notes of +six pounds had been two pounds ten shillings, and +of this a goodly portion had to be taken out in +clothes. And this I was told was because of the +uncertainty attaching to the payment of these +notes when they were presented. Under such +conditions there was little room for wonder that +cases of disappearance of the men who had obtained +these advance notes were frequent. It was +no unusual thing for half of a crew to be missing +when a vessel sailed, when, of course, those who +had given anything for the notes lost their money +beyond hope of recovery.</p> + +<p>Although it seems premature to say so, I feel +bound to add that the friend who cashed my note +received his money, when it was due, without question. +Seven of the men who signed on with me +did not turn up on sailing-day, so that we left the +dock shorthanded to that extent. We anchored +at Gravesend, however, and a scratch lot of "hard +cases" were found to make up our complement. +For three days we lay at the Red Buoy below<span class="pagenum">[248]</span> +Gravesend, while I wondered mightily at such delay, +foreign altogether to my notions of the despatch +of Australian packets. But finally a huge +lighter painted a brilliant red came alongside, and +immediately the order was issued for all fire or +light of any kind to be extinguished, as we were +going to ship gunpowder. As soon as the officers +were satisfied that there was no danger from +a stray spark to be apprehended, the transhipment +began, and soon fifty tons of explosives were transferred +to the square of our main hatch, in cases and +kegs, from which a good deal of loose powder was +leaking. The stowing completed, the hatch was +securely battened down for sea, the lighter left, and +the order was given to man the windlass. Hitherto +I had been agreeably surprised to see how quietly +the work went on, altogether a different state of +affairs to what I had expected on board a Yankee +ship. But the reason was not far to seek. Vicious +as the captain looked, he was utterly helpless +to inaugurate a reign of terror on board, for he +had no truculent set of officers to back him. The +mate was a quiet, elderly man, looking as unlike a +seaman as possible, and certainly was not the man +to develop into a bully. The second mate was too +young, although as smart a man as ever stepped, +to tackle the whole crew single-handed, even had +he felt disposed; and, of course, the ancient carpenter +counted for nothing. Half the crew were +exceedingly hard citizens, who looked as if all the +ways of "Western Ocean blood-boats" were familiar +to them; the other half were Norwegians +and Swedes, who were unable to speak English, and<span class="pagenum">[249]</span> +ready to endure any kind of brutality, at whoever's +hands it might be presented. Poor wretches! +had they but known it, they were fortunate, for +the worst that befell them was being treated as +boys by the hard-bitten members of the crew, and +made to wait on them hand and foot. On deck +their lives were easy enough and the food was +really good.</p> + +<p>In order to save the skipper trouble, I suppose, +we had a Channel pilot on board to take the ship +as far as Portland. He, poor man, was sadly out +of his element with the skipper, whom he early described, +to the half-dozen passengers we carried, +as an unmitigated hog. Still there was no open +breach between them until we arrived off the +Wight. Then when the pilot altered the course +(we had been coming down in mid-channel), too +close in with the land, the old man walked up to +the helmsman and sternly ordered him to resume +the course he had been steering, right down the +centre of the Channel. Of course there was an explosion. +The pilot protested in no measured +terms against his behaviour, saying that, as his +contract was performed, he was anxious to be put +ashore. The captain, however, treated him with +cool insolence, assuring him that he wasn't going +one mile out of his way to land him, and the utmost +he would do would be to put him on board +any homeward-bounder we might pass near +enough. This nearly drove the pilot frantic. We +could hear him all over the ship. But, for all the +impression he made upon the venerable Yankee, he +might as well have saved his breath. Then there<span class="pagenum">[250]</span> +was trouble with the passengers. They had been +led to believe that they would be sumptuously fed +and waited upon, the charterers in London having +painted in glowing colours the comforts sure to be +met with in so large a ship for seven passengers. +Now, however, they found that even the cooking +of their food was a privilege for which they must +fee the cook, the steward was forbidden to wait +upon them, and they were entirely thrown upon +their own resources. When they complained to +the captain he calmly told them that their difficulties +were no concern of his; he had quite sufficient +annoyance in seeing them occupying his saloon, +which he could assure them was intended for the +reception of a very different class of people to +them. Happily they were all fairly well used to +roughing it, and so they sensibly set about making +the best of their very bad bargain, and thenceforward +ignored the scowling skipper altogether. +The unfortunate pilot was kept on board five days, +and finally put on board a homeward-bound Mediterranean +steamer that we spoke half-way across +the Bay. As he went over the side he hurled his +opinion of the skipper back at him, his voice rising +higher and higher, until he was no longer audible, +to the huge delight of passengers and crew alike.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[251]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">THE PASSAGE TO MELBOURNE.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were now fairly on the voyage, and it must +be confessed at the outset that the work of the +ship, in spite of the paucity of officers, went on +with automatic regularity. No disturbance of any +kind marred the general peace, all hands seeming +well content to do their duty quietly, although +fully aware of the weakness of the afterguard. My +own position was a queer one. Although I was +on the articles as an ordinary seaman, and slept in +the forecastle among the men, neither of the officers +ever gave me any work to do, and I was compelled +in self-defence to fall back upon my old +friend the steward for something to occupy my +time. I had all my food with him, and whenever +I could do so without fear of being discovered +by the captain, he allowed me to perform a few +small offices for the unfortunate passengers. Before +we had been a fortnight out, a circumstance, +which I dare not hint at the nature of, compelled +me to give up my quarters in the forecastle and +take refuge in the cabin, where I spread my nightly +couch under the saloon table. The captain +never seemed to notice my existence at all, at +which I used to wonder much; but feeling that ob<span class="pagenum">[252]</span>scurity +was not a bad thing for me, I kept out of +his way as much as possible. I do not think it +would be possible to find a more perfect representation +of Bunyan's "Pope" than he was. +Whenever he looked at one of the men his scowl +was shocking, almost murderous, and he was continually +snarling at the mate for not using violence +towards them. But the first gale we encountered +revealed a new and still more unpleasant side of his +character. Although the ship was new, and +staunch as faithful building could make her, her +equipment in all details of the very best procurable, +I was astonished to see how rapidly sail was reduced, +as if she had been the veriest poverty-stricken +old hulk that ever was sent to sea to sink. +Long before the gale attained its height she was +"fore-reaching" under a main lower-topsail and +storm staysails, and he, the commander, like an +unquiet spirit, was prowling incessantly about the +cabin, or pacing restlessly in front of the wheel. +In one hand he held a large plug of tobacco, from +which his trembling fingers tore leaf after leaf and +crammed them into his mouth until it would hold +no more. Then he would pause for a moment at +the lee rail and disgorge, only to resume his feeding +an instant later. He even consulted the poor +old steward, asking him, in quite familiar tones, +whether he thought the gale was taking off, although +at other times he spoke to him rather more +brutally than a costermonger would to his donkey. +But the crowning act of almost lunatic fear was to +come. I was doing something in his beautiful +state-room, when I heard him descending the lad<span class="pagenum">[253]</span>der. +I could not get out without passing him, so +I hid myself behind a curtain, feeling sure that he +would not remain there more than a minute. +Peeping cautiously out, I saw him standing gazing +fixedly at a large print of the Lord's Prayer that +adorned one of the panels. Presently he burst out +into the most terrible blasphemies: guttural cursings +that sent cold chills of horror chasing one another +over my scalp. Then he began to moan pitifully, +as if in pain, and suddenly, to my intense relief, +he hurriedly went on deck again. I fled in to +the steward, shaking from head to foot, and told +him what I had heard. "Doan tak' no notice, honey," +said the kind old fellow. "I guess he's a-gettin' +mighty ole 'n scared, so's he don' know haef +wat he sez. Ennyhaow, we cain't he'p his cussedness, +'n de good Lawd ain't a-gwine ter mek us pay +fer him. I knows Him better'n dat. Don' yew lissen +t'im no mo', sonny, ef yew kin he'p it." Little +need to tell me that, I thought. There was really +nothing extraordinary in the gale. Even the passengers, +apart from the discomfort of their surroundings, +were unmoved by it, for the splendid +vessel behaved herself grandly, hardly shipping a +drop of water. Gradually the wind took off; but +not until every trace of bad weather was out of the +sky was any attempt made to set sail again. And +when at last orders were given to loose the topsails +and staysails, the captain seemed half afraid +of his own temerity, although two or three vessels +passed us with every stitch set, their crews lining +the bulwarks to stare at us in wonder as to why we +were thus wasting the fine fair wind.<span class="pagenum">[254]</span></p> + +<p>This cautious navigation, however, troubled +nobody but the passengers; and even they were +less disturbed by it than they would have been had +they known anything of the ship's position. But +that no one in the ship knew, with any certainty, +except the old fellow himself; for he navigated the +vessel, and did not allow the mate to take an observation, +treating him in this matter, as in all +others, with a contempt almost too great for +words. Why, no one could tell; for Mr. Small +was a good officer and seaman, keeping the ship +in perfect order, and attending to all his duties in a +most exemplary way. The only reason that could +be imagined for the captain's behaviour to him +was that he had none of the loud-voiced bully +about him, and utterly refused to beat, kick, or +swear at any member of the crew. One thing was +especially noticeable: neither of the officers ever +went forward of the men's quarters after dark, +unless absolutely compelled to do so in the course +of trimming or setting sail. This reluctance, on +their part, to venture into what they had come to +look upon as the men's part of the deck, was of the +greatest assistance to the crew in the pursuit of +their nefarious schemes of plunder, which were carried +on here to a greater extent than I have ever +heard of elsewhere. It has been already noticed +that a good deal of drunkenness was indulged in +before the vessel left the dock, owing to the previous +mate's total neglect of duty, and this was principally +focussed about the galley. Now, it so happened +that the stock of kindling-wood fell very +low, and this furnished an excellent excuse for the<span class="pagenum">[255]</span> +cook to be much in the fore-hold, seeking such +stray pieces of dunnage-wood as he might burn. +He was a poor cook, but a superlatively ingenious +robber. For, finding that the 'tween decks held +little worth his attention, he wrought unceasingly +to get the lower hatches lifted—a tremendous +task, from the massive weights stowed on top of +them. At last he succeeded in getting into the +lower hold, and laying open the vast accumulation +of valuable cargo that lay beneath. Having done +this he informed the "hard-case" members of his +exploit, and considerately arranged the fastenings +on the fore-hatch so that they could get below +when they listed. Thenceforward that forecastle +was a scene of luxury such as I believe has never +been equalled in a merchant ship. Wire chandeliers, +fitted with massive wax candles, lit up the +usually darksome house, the burning of costly +cigars filled it with aroma, liquors of every kind +were drunk from tin pots, and at meal-times all +sorts of canned meats, seasoned with various condiments, +tickled their palates. Yet, strange to +say, there was no drunkenness. One man, the +ringleader in this systematic robbery, possessed +sufficient force of character to actually prevent +any of his shipmates from "giving the show away," +as he termed it. In consequence, this eating and +drinking of luxuries went on for fully three +months, and never a whisper of the goings-on +reached the officers' ears. Even the passengers +shared in the plunder. Their stores, besides being +of bad quality, were so limited in quantity and variety +that they were glad to purchase from the<span class="pagenum">[256]</span> +sailors a little of their spoil, asking no questions +as to its origin. As the various cases were emptied +the cook broke them up, carried the fragments +into the galley and burnt them, so that no +trace was left of the depredations.</p> + +<p>The nightly excursions below were attended +with awful risk. In the first place the men possessed +no dark lantern, so that they carried naked +candles flaring in their hands as they crawled +through the restricted spaces between the cargo +and the deck overhead. And, on first entering the +lower hold, they had to make their way over hundreds +of drums of naphtha. These were all sealed, +it is true; but had there been one leaky can in +that temperature over which a naked light passed! +More than that, in their investigations the marauders +penetrated as far aft as the stern, passing +among little heaps of loose gunpowder which had +sifted through the hatches of the between-decks, +and writhing over kegs of blasting-powder which +were stowed right across the vessel amidships. At +first they did this unthinkingly; but when they +realized it they still went on as before. No doubt +this statement of mine will stagger many who have +found no difficulty hitherto in accepting my word +that this book contains absolutely nothing but +the truth, and is a record of my personal experience. +Nevertheless, I solemnly declare that I +have not deviated one iota from the simple facts +of the case. What is strange to myself about it +is that I did not, could not, then realize what +frightful danger we were continually in; but ever +since, when I recall the events of that voyage,<span class="pagenum">[257]</span> +the cold sweat starts out upon me and I tremble +violently.</p> + +<p>True to his traditions the old man kept north +as soon as we were well round the Cape, afraid to +run the easting down in the usual latitudes because +of the stern vigour of the brave west winds. Consequently, +we dawdled along with variable winds +and dirty weather, never keeping a steady breeze +for more than a day or two at the outside. But, +as the longest passage must come to an end at +last, when nearly four months had elapsed since +leaving London, a rumour ran round the ship that +we were on the meridian of Cape Leeuwin, the +south-westernmost point of Australia. This put +all hands in an exceedingly good humour, and incidentally +had strange consequences. Not that she +had ever been an uncomfortable ship, except for +the mate and the passengers. There was never an +angry word or a growl heard. Orders were executed +with as much alacrity as if there had been +half a dozen belaying-pin-wielding officers prowling +about, ready to knock any skulker senseless on +the instant. No doubt this was owing to some +strange under-current of feeling about their nefarious +proceedings on the part of the crew, as if they +could, in some measure, set-off their wholesale robbery +by the prompt, cheerful obedience they paid +to all orders. But, as I have said, the report of +our nearness to port sent a glow of unusual cheerfulness +through the ship. Under its influence the +prime mover in the plundering felt so benevolent +that he actually went and fetched a bottle of +brandy out of his chest, and, hiding it in the breast<span class="pagenum">[258]</span> +of his jumper, brought it to the old carpenter as +he sat solitary in his berth at the after-end of the +forward-house. Chips was profuse in his thanks, +earnest in his protestations that he would be <i>very</i> +careful not to take too much and so let the officers +into the secret. No sooner was he left alone, however, +than, pouring himself out about half a pint +of the glowing "Three Star," he drank it off at a +draught. His age fell from him like a shed garment. +With a strange glitter in his eye he seized +the bottle again, and treated this new man that +had entered into him to another jorum like the +first. Then, on the instant, all the contumely that +he had so long and patiently endured from the +skipper rushed into his mind—a hateful burden of +memories too heavy to be longer tamely borne. +Flinging wide his door he stepped on deck and +solemnly marched aft, high determination apparent +in every motion of his transformed body. +Halting before the cabin door, he shouted, "Cap'n +Collier, ye mouldy-headed old son of a gun, come +out here! I'm jest goin' ter lam de measly ole hed +off'n ye!" The rest of his harangue was unfit for +publication. Sufficient to say that, in spite of his +deficient acquaintance with the English language, +he showed himself marvellously fluent in all the +quaint profanity of which Americans are the acknowledged +masters. Thrice was he forcibly removed +to his berth by the two officers, redoubling +his efforts to induce the captain to appear, and +thrice he burst forth again and clamoured for the +old man's blood. At last, seeing that nothing +else would suffice, he was put in irons, his feet were<span class="pagenum">[259]</span> +lashed together, and, thus bound, he was cast into +his bunk to "sober up," while the second mate +searched his berth for the <i>fons et origo mali</i>. He +soon found it, and brought it aft to the captain. +Then a close examination of the fore-hatch was +made, revealing the fact that it was unlocked, although +the cook swore that he <i>had</i> always locked +it before he returned the keys to the second mate. +However, it was now made secure, and the keys +brought aft and given to the captain. Neither of +the officers remembered, though, that a spacious +ventilator through the fore-part of the house led +directly down into the hold. This was accordingly +left unfastened, and every night one or other of the +unhappy foreigners were compelled to slide down +it and pass up such stores as they could lay their +hands on. And so the game went merrily on.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the weather holding fine and the +wind fair, we drew rapidly nearer to the end of the +passage. For my part, easy as my lot had been, I +was thoroughly sick of it. I had never been aloft +all the passage, nor had I been allowed to take any +part in the ordinary work of the ship. Consequently +I felt as if I were losing all my knowledge +of my business, and I had gloomy forebodings of +my sufferings in the next ship. Moreover I felt +very uneasy in my mind as to the probable outcome +of the goings-on in the forecastle and galley. +I had been so much amongst it that I felt sure it +would be difficult for me to clear myself if it came +to court, and as each day passed I felt more and +more certain that there would be a wholesale arrest +as soon as the vessel arrived. Therefore I was<span class="pagenum">[260]</span> +thoroughly unquiet, longing for the passage to +end, yet dreading the arrival in port. But, so far +as I could see, these dismal reflections troubled the +crew not at all. The seasoned hands had evidently +prepared a plan of campaign, and had made ample +provision for a lengthy tramp up-country, by +stocking their bags with such preserved foods as +they fancied. In addition each man had a fine +gun, out of a case they had found, and a goodly +quantity of cigars and spirits. Such utter recklessness, +in the face of their probable wholesale +arrest before the ship came alongside the wharf, +was hard to understand; yet so they acted.</p> + +<p>At last the long-looked-for light on Cape Otway +was sighted, and before a splendid westerly +breeze we sped through Bass's Straits, and northward +for Port Phillip Heads. Without any hindrance, +except to take up a pilot, we raced onwards +until we reached the anchorage off Williamstown, +where, with the red flag flying at our mainmast +head in token of the dangerous nature of our cargo, +we brought up and furled all sail, 155 days out +from London. It was the longest passage that +any vessel had made for years, and great was the +astonishment manifested by all who boarded us to +hear of it. None of them could understand how it +was that so fine a ship could possibly have taken +the time, especially as another ship, belonging to +the same owners, and admittedly a much slower +vessel, had been in port a fortnight, having left +London one month after us. Captain Collier told +the reporters a terrible tale of the severity of our +passage, which did great credit to his imagination,<span class="pagenum">[261]</span> +but left his veracity derelict. Four days passed at +the Williamstown anchorage before we finally got +rid of our powder—days of utter misery for every +one concerned in the depredations, for they were in +momentary expectation of the arrival of a police-boat +with orders for their arrest. To this day it +is a mystery to me why this did not happen. Of +course the skipper could not know how far the robbery +had gone, but that "broaching of cargo" had +been indulged in he must have been well aware. +But he was so utterly contemptuous of all things +English, that he may have felt quite indifferent as +to what became of Englishmen's property. As his +ship was chartered by a London firm it was doubtless +their loss. At any rate, he did not trouble +himself to order any examination of the hold, or +make any inquiry into the suspicious circumstances +that had taken place on the passage. At last, +all being ready, we weighed anchor and were towed +over to the Sandridge Pier. We arrived there +late in the afternoon, so that by the time we were +moored it was dusk. The decks were cleared up, +and all hands sent to supper. About an hour +afterwards every man forrard, with the exception +of the young foreigners, who had hardly learned +English, shouldered their bags and walked ashore. +The old man was parading the poop as the row of +deserters marched up the pier, but he either did +not or would not see them. So they disappeared, +and we saw them no more. Nor did we hear of +them again, although two days afterwards a reward +of four pounds each was offered for their apprehension—a +piece of folly almost inconceivable<span class="pagenum">[262]</span> +in its fatuity. Of course the cook had gone along +with them, the danger of his position far outweighing +the loss of twenty pounds in wages which +he thus forfeited.</p> + +<p>As far as I was concerned, things ran along as +smoothly as heart could wish. But I was unsettled, +nor could all the kindness of the worthy steward +avail to satisfy me. Theoretically, I ought to +have been exceedingly comfortable. I had literally +nothing to do but avoid the skipper; I had +thirty shillings a month as wages, abundance of +good food, and I was on the best of terms with +every soul on board but one. Yet, somehow, I +longed to be out of it all, and could not bring myself +to face the possibility of going to sea again in +the ship. I took to frequenting the large coasting-steamers, +which used to lie at the shore end of the +pier, and at last made great friends with the chief +cook of one of them: the <i>Wonga Wonga</i>. This +worthy was a herculean negro, rejoicing in the +name of Sam White, which, as a piece of charcoal +would have made a white mark on him, was somewhat +inappropriate. At the close of a delightful +evening spent in his company on board the <i>Wonga +Wonga</i>, I made bold to ask him if he could get me +a passage to Sydney with him. Oh, there could +be nothing easier than that, according to him; it +was only necessary for him to speak the word, and +he could take half a dozen friends up with him. +But it was usual to make him a small present. I, +of course, had no money; but I timidly offered him +a gold scarf-pin, which had been given me by the +passengers as a present (I afterwards learnt that it<span class="pagenum">[263]</span> +was worth fifty shillings). He was graciously +pleased to accept it, and told me to bring my dunnage +along at once. In a fever of excitement I returned +on board the <i>Pharos</i>, and packed up all my +belongings, now swollen to a goodly heap by the +many articles of clothing given me by the passengers +when they left. When I had completed my +packing, I could scarcely drag the great pile of +chest, bag, and bundle along the deck, and I dared +not ask any one on board to help me. But I had +plenty of resource; so I hooked on the yardarm +cargo-tackle to the lot (all well lashed together), +and after a struggle succeeded in hoisting it high +enough to swing on to the wharf, having first seen +that the watchman was comfortably dozing in the +galley. Very carefully I lowered my precious cargo +on to the pier, then crept ashore, and dragged +it under a railway truck, while I went back to the +<i>Wonga Wonga</i>, and enlisted the services of the +cook's mate to come and carry it up to their ship, +and place it under Mr. White's care. Then I got +my final instructions. I was to return on board +the <i>Pharos</i>, and remain there till the next day at +dinner-time, when I must hasten on board the +steamer, where Mr. White would receive me, and +in an hour I should be on my way to Sydney. +Making my grateful acknowledgments, I returned +on board, and upon a heap of old canvas slept +dreamlessly until morning.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[264]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">I BECOME A COLONIAL COASTER.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Surely</span> never morning contained so many +hours as did this one. Never before, in all my +varied experience, had I felt time to be so leaden-footed. +For, do what I would, the thought that +at the last moment some hindrance would arise and +prevent me from following all my earthly possessions +would not be put aside. My good old friend, +the steward, noted my nervous condition, and at +last called me into the pantry and asked me, in +kindly, serious tones, what was the matter. In a +few broken words I told him all, so fully did I +trust him. He was silent for a couple of minutes, +then he said, "Well, Tommy, my boy, I'm sorry +you'se gwine; but I couldn't wish to keep ye here. +It's no place for ye. And, alldough I'm 'fraid I'm +not doin' de right ting to let ye go, I cain't fine it +in me heart to stop ye. I only hope you'll be a +good boy an' do well, and I shall pray God to bless +ye. I don't s'pose you've got any money, so here's +ten dollars for ye. Don't let anybody know +you've got it, or you'll be sure to get it stole; an' if +de times should be bad in Sydney it'll keep ye fur a +while. Good-bye, my son." And with that he +kissed me. That broke me all up. I declare that,<span class="pagenum">[265]</span> +never since I lost my dear old aunt, had I ever felt +the genuine thrill of human affection as I felt it +then at the touch of that good old coloured man, +whose memory I shall cherish as long as I live.</p> + +<p>At last the whistle sounded for dinner, and, +almost immediately after, I heard the hoarse notes +of the <i>Wonga Wonga's</i> warning that she was ready +to depart. Like an eel I glided over the side, and +off up the pier I ran, catching a glimpse between +the trucks of the grim figure of Captain Collier as +he prowled up and down the sacred limits of his +poop. When I reached the steamer, she was in a +great state of bustle. A host of passengers with +their baggage were embarking, and it was one of +the easiest of tasks to slip on board unnoticed. I +rushed below to the cook's quarters, finding him +in the thick of preparations for the saloon dinner. +Hardly looking at me, he uttered a few hurried instructions: +the purport of them being that I must +creep down through a dim alleyway into the chain-locker, +and there remain until he should send for +me. At the same time he gave me a hunk of +bread and meat. Then it dawned upon me that I +was nothing but a "stowaway" after all, especially +as he whispered a final command to me not to mention +his name upon any account. It was a shock +indeed, but there was no place for repentance; I +had burned my bridges. So wriggling through +the dark crevice he had indicated, I wormed my +way along until I reached the chain-locker, where +I made myself as comfortable as the rugged heaps +of chain-cable would allow. Overhead I heard, as +if at an immense distance, the hurry-scurry of de<span class="pagenum">[266]</span>parture, +and presently, that all-pervading vibration +following the deep clang of the engine-room gong +that told me we were off. Satisfied, so far, that I +was unlikely to return, I went to sleep, and, despite +the knobby nature of my couch, slumbered +serenely. How long I had thus been oblivious of +my strange surroundings I don't know, but it suddenly +occurred to me that some one was pulling +my legs as they protruded beyond the bulkhead of +the chain-locker.</p> + +<p>"Sailor-man, by his boots, sir!" said a gruff +voice, answered by another, "All right, rouse him +up!" Roused up I was accordingly, and, sliding +forward, I confronted an elderly man in uniform, +whom I took to be the mate, and a stalwart fellow +in a guernsey—apparently a quarter-master. In +answer to their inquiries, I told them that I had +run away from an American ship at Sandridge, +and, being anxious to get to Sydney, had stowed +away. "Why didn't you come and ask me for a +passage?" said the officer. "I didn't dare to risk +a refusal," I answered. "Don't you know you +can be punished for stowing away?" queried my +interlocutor, severely. "No, sir," I replied, "an' +I don't care much. I'm satisfied to know that, +unless you head me up in a beef-cask and throw me +overboard, I shall get to Sydney anyhow." At +this impudent reply he frowned a little; but being, +as I afterwards found, one of the best-tempered +men in the world, he merely said, "Well, come +along on deck and we'll see if we can't find you +something to do."</p> + +<p>Thenceforward I was regarded as one of the<span class="pagenum">[267]</span> +crew, and very pleased I was to find things turn +out so comfortably. On the third day out we arrived +off Sydney Heads, and went up the magnificent +bay to the city amid scenes of loveliness that I +do not believe can be surpassed by any harbour in +the wide world. Mr. White had kept me at arm's +length all the passage, apparently prepared to deny +all knowledge of me should I show any signs of +discovering our bargain to any one; but now, as +we neared the A.S.N. Company's wharf, he called +me to him and endeavoured to make me believe +that my good treatment was entirely owing to his +having interested himself on my behalf. I didn't +believe a word he said, but I had thoroughly +learned how unwise it was to make enemies needlessly, +so I pretended to be grateful for his protection. +He inquired what my plans were, and, +finding that I had none, offered me the hospitality +of his home until he should be able to find me a +berth in one of the steamers. This offer I accepted, +feeling glad to have somewhere to go to as well +as to avoid the necessity of breaking into my little +stock of money. So we parted for the time on the +best of terms, and I returned to my work until +knock-off time, when it was understood that I +was to accompany him ashore. While I was washing +I was agreeably surprised to be called by the +mate, who with great kindness presented me with +a sovereign, and promised to do his best to get me +a berth as lamp-trimmer. He also gave me some +good advice as to the company I got into, warning +me to beware of the larrikins that infested certain +quarters of the town. I thanked him as ear<span class="pagenum">[268]</span>nestly +as I was able, telling him that I was going to +lodge for the present with one of the crew, and, +bidding him good-bye, went down the gangway +and through the warehouse to wait for the cook +as we had arranged. He soon joined me, followed +by his two mates bearing my chest, which was put +upon a lorry and conveyed up town. I found his +wife a kindly, slatternly white woman, and his +home a weather-board house in Lower York +Street, with hardly any pretensions to comfort. +Still, I reasoned, it would do for the time as well +as any other place I should be likely to find, and, +from the stories I had heard of "down town" Sydney, +was probably a great deal safer.</p> + +<p>I spent a week ashore wandering wherever I +had a mind to, and seeing the beautiful place thoroughly; +but I made no acquaintances. One thing +was early impressed upon my mind, and subsequent +experience only confirmed my belief, that +Sydney was the most shamelessly immoral place I +had ever seen. That, of course, was twenty-seven +years ago, so may not be at all the case to-day. +At the end of the week I was overjoyed to get a +berth, without anybody's assistance, as lamp-trimmer +on board a pretty little steamer, called the +<i>Helen M'Gregor</i>, that ran regularly between Sydney +and the town of Grafton on the Clarence +River, calling at Newcastle and sundry places on +the river <i>en route</i>. By closely observing the duties +of the "lamps" on board the <i>Wonga Wonga</i>, I had +been fairly well prepared to take such a berth; but +I thought, with a bitter smile, how little my sailorizing +would avail me now. Still, the wages were<span class="pagenum">[269]</span> +two pounds ten shillings per month, the same as +the A.B.'s had been paid on the outward passage, +so I was well content.</p> + +<p>My lamp-room was a mere cupboard by the +side of the funnel, on deck, and just abaft the galley. +To do my work I had to kneel on a hot iron +plate in front of the said cupboard, exposed to +whatever weather was going. But the cook had +all my sympathies. In his tiny caboose he had to +prepare meals for seventy or eighty people, while +all his pastry-making, butchering, etc. (for we carried +live sheep and fowls with us), must needs be +done on deck. Now the vessel, though exceedingly +pretty to look at in harbour, was utterly unfit +to cope with the tremendous seas that sweep +along the eastern shores of Australia. Somewhere, +in one of Henry Kingsley's books (the +"Hillyars and Burtons," I think), he speaks of a +little steamer climbing one of those gigantic seas +like a bat clinging to a wall. That was a common +experience of ours. Her motions were +frightful. I have seen every soul on board sea-sick +while she crawled up, up, up one mountainous +wave after another, plunging down into the abysses +between them as if she would really turn a complete +summersault. Everybody was black and +blue with being flung about, and the passengers, +who had perforce to be battened down in the sweltering +saloon, or second cabin, suffered misery untellable. +Yet even that wretchedness had its ludicrous +side. To see our fierce little hunchback +cook astride of a half-skinned sheep, to which he +held on with a death-like grip, his knife between<span class="pagenum">[270]</span> +his teeth and a demoniacal glare in his eye, careering +fore and aft in a smother of foam, surrounded +by the <i>débris</i> of the preparing dinner, made even +men half dead with fatigue and nausea laugh. But +it was terrible work. As for me, I got no respite at +all at night. For I had to keep the lamps burning; +and she thought nothing of hurling both the +big side-lanterns out of their slides on deck, or +shooting both binnacle-lights at once into the air, +leaving the helmsman staring at a black disc instead +of the illuminated compass-card. And +often, as I painfully made my way forrard with the +side-lights, after a long struggle with wetted wicks +and broken glass, she would plunge her bows +under a huge comber, lifting a massive flood over +all, which seized me in its ruthless embrace and +swept me, entangled with my burden, the whole +length of the deck, till I brought up against the +second-cabin door right aft, with a bang that +knocked the scanty remnant of breath out of my +trembling body. Down in the engine-room the +grey-headed chief-engineer stood by the grunting +machinery, his hand on the throttle-valve, which he +incessantly manipulated to prevent the propeller +racing the engines out of their seats whenever she +lifted her stern out of the water and the screw revolved +in thin air. For the old-fashioned low-pressure +engines had no "governor," and consequently, +no automatic means of relieving the terrific strain +thrown upon them in such weather as this. And +the firemen, who <i>had</i> to keep steam up, though +they were hurled to and fro over the slippery plates +like toys, were probably in the most evil case of all.<span class="pagenum">[271]</span></p> + +<p>She must have been staunchly built, for she +bore the fearful buffeting without any damage +worth speaking of, except to the unfortunates who +were compelled to attend to their duties under +such difficulties. And after the gale blew itself +out, and the glorious sun mounted triumphantly +in the deep blue dome above, the scene was splendid +beyond description. We always kept fairly +close in with the land, except when crossing a deep +bight, and the views we obtained of the magnificent +scenery along that wonderful coast were +worth enduring a good deal of hardship to witness. +We arrived off the entrance to the Clarence River +just at dark, and, to my great astonishment, instead +of going in, sail was set, the fires were +damped down, and we stood "off and on" until +daylight. As soon as there was sufficient light to +distinguish objects on shore, we stood in; all passengers +were ordered below and everything was +battened down. All hands perched themselves as +high as they could on the bridge, upper-deck, and +in the rigging, while we made straight for the bar. +These precautions had filled me with wonder, for I +knew nothing of bar harbours. But when, on our +nearer approach, I saw the mighty stretch of turbulent +breakers rolling in mountains of snowy +foam across the river's mouth, I began to understand +that the passage through <i>that</i> would mean +considerable danger. Every ounce of steam we +could raise was on her, and the skipper, a splendid +specimen of a British seaman, stood on the bridge, +the very picture of vigorous vigilance. We entered +the first line of breakers; all around us<span class="pagenum">[272]</span> +seethed the turmoil of snowy foam, with not a +mark of any kind to show the channel, except such +bearings as the skipper knew of on the distant +shore. Perched upon the rail, a leadsman sounded +as rapidly as he could, calling out such depths of +water as amazed me, knowing our draught. +Along came an enormous wall of white water, +overwhelming the hull and hiding it from sight. +"Lead—quick!" yelled the skipper above the +thunder of the sea; and Joe screamed, "Two, half +one, quarter less two." Ah! a long and grinding +concussion as she tore up the ground, then along +came another mighty comber over all. When it +had passed we were over the bar and in smooth +water, only the yeasty flakes of the spent breakers +following us as if disappointed of their prey. A +very few minutes sufficed to dry up the decks, and +the passengers appeared well pleased to be in the +placid waters of the river and at peace once more. +What a lovely scene it was! At times we sped +along close to the bank, while a great stretch of +river extended on the other side of us a mile wide, +but too shallow for even our light draught. On +gleaming sand-patches flocks of pelicans performed +their unwieldy gambols, and shoals of fish reflected +the sunlight from their myriad glittering +scales. Turning a sharp bend we would disturb a +flock of black swans that rose with deafening clamour +in such immense numbers as to darken the sky +overhead like a thunder-cloud. And, about the +bushes that clothed the banks, flew parrots, cockatoos, +and magpies in such hosts as I had never +dreamed of. For an hour we saw no sign of in<span class="pagenum">[273]</span>habitants; +then, suddenly, we sighted a little village +with a rude jetty and about half a dozen +houses. All the population, I suppose, stood on +the pier to greet us, who came bearing to them in +their lonely corner a bit of the great outside world. +Our skipper, though noted for his seamanship, was +equally notorious for his clumsiness in bringing his +vessel alongside a wharf, and we came into the +somewhat crazy structure with a crash that sent +the shore-folk scurrying off into safety until it +was seen to be still intact. We were soon fast, +and all hands working like Chinamen to land the +few packages of goods, for we had a long way to +go yet and several other places to call at. Our discharging +was soon over, the warps cast off, and, +followed by (as I thought) the wistful looks of the +little community of Rocky Mouth, we proceeded +up the river again. Occasionally we sighted a +homestead standing among a thick plantation of +banana trees, each laden with its massive bunch of +fruit, and broad acres of sugar-cane or maize. +From amongst the latter as we passed rose perfect +clouds of cockatoos and parrots, screaming discordantly, +and making even the dullest observer +think of the heavy toll they were levying upon the +toiling farmer. Again and again we stopped at +villages, each bearing a family likeness to the first, +but all looking thriving, and inhabited by well-fed, +sturdy people. Just before sunset we arrived at +Grafton, having passed but two vessels on our +journey up—one a handsome brigantine, whose +crew were laboriously towing her along at a snail's +pace in a solitary boat, and the other a flat-bot<span class="pagenum">[274]</span>tomed +stern-wheel steamer of so light a draught +that she looked capable of crossing a meadow in a +heavy dew. There was a substantial jetty built +out from the steep bank, to the end of which, after +considerable fumbling about, we moored. The +only house visible was a rather fine dwelling whose +front verandah overlooked the jetty from the top +of the bank. But, when work was done for the +evening and I climbed up the bank, I was surprised +to find quite a considerable town, with well-laidout +streets and every appearance of prosperity. +There was little inducement to remain, however, +and I soon hurried on board again to enjoy some +grand fishing over the side.</p> + +<p>Here we remained for a week discharging our +cargo and reloading with maize, cases of preserved +beef and mutton, and bags of tin ore. Just before +sailing we received a good deal of farm produce, including +several hundred bunches of bananas, for +which there was always a good demand in Sydney. +In order not to miss a tide we sailed sometime before +daylight one morning, and, when about +twenty miles down the river, ran into the region of +a bush fire. As we had to hug the bank rather +closely just there, we had an anxious time of it, +the great showers of sparks and sheets of flame +reaching out towards us as if determined to claim +us, too, among their victims. The sight was terribly +grand; the blood-red sky overhead and the +glowing river beneath making it appear as if we +were between two furnaces, while the deep terrific +roar of the furious fire so near drowned every other +sound. All hands were kept on the alert dowsing<span class="pagenum">[275]</span> +sparks that settled on board of us, and right glad +was everybody when we emerged into the cool and +smoke-free air beyond. After that we had a most +humdrum passage all the way to Sydney.</p> + +<p>I made at least twenty trips afterwards, all very +much alike in their freedom from incidents worth +recording here—except one, which made a very +vivid impression upon me of the hardships endured +by settlers in that beautiful country. It had been +raining steadily for several days, making our transhipment +of cargo a miserable operation; and it +was noticed by all of us, as we lay at Grafton jetty, +how rapidly the river was running. Before dark +one evening the skipper ordered the warps to be +cast off, and we hauled out into the fairway, anchoring +there with a good scope of cable. All +night long the rain poured down harder than ever. +When daylight broke, so thick was the obscurity +caused by the deluge of rain, that we could hardly +make out the familiar outlines of things ashore, +even at that short distance. But we could both +feel and see that the river was now a torrent, bringing +down with it massive trees and floating islands +of <i>débris</i> torn from the banks higher up. Towards +noon the rain took off, and revealed to us a disastrous +state of affairs ashore. The river had +risen over twenty feet; so that we now floated on a +level with the top of the bank, and might have +steamed over the wharf at which we had lain the +previous evening. It became necessary for our +skipper to go ashore, although it was a most dangerous +task navigating the boat through that raging, +tumultuous current. But the sight of those<span class="pagenum">[276]</span> +poor folks' plight in the town made us forget all +else. The turbid flood was everywhere; all the +houses standing like islands in a muddy sea, and +boats plying busily to and fro, carrying loads of +stricken people who had seen the labour of years +destroyed in a night. And all down the river the +tale was the same: homes, crops, stock—everything +that had been slowly and painfully accumulated +by years of self-sacrifice—buried under the +all-devouring flood. It was too pitiful for words. +How terribly true those words of warning returned +now which I had read some months before +in one of the Sydney newspapers, "Beware of the +rich alluvial soil along the banks of rivers." As +far as I remember, but little notice was taken of +the matter in Sydney; for there had been a great +flood on the Hunter River, much nearer to them, +at about the same time, and that seemed to occupy +most of the public attention. So many pathetic +incidents were witnessed by us on that trip +that it would be invidious to make a selection, +even if it were not outside the scope of my purpose +to do so; but one scene, from the intensity of its +pathos, has haunted me ever since. A certain +homestead on the shores of a lovely bend of the +river, some twenty miles from Grafton, was one of +the most familiar of our landmarks. The man and +his wife were a splendid couple, full of energy and +ability, and they had, by their own unaided efforts, +made such a home of this out-of-the-way corner +as gladdened the eyes to look upon. Whenever +we went up or down there the worthy couple +would be surrounded by their vigorous group of +<span class="pagenum">[277]</span> +sunburnt youngsters, shouting greetings to us as +if we were all old friends. At this particular season +they had a more than ordinarily fine crop of +sugar-cane, for which they had already received a +good offer from the manager of a new sugar-mill +erected in one of the reaches above Grafton. +When we passed down after the flood, there, on a +heap of muddy rubbish, sat the man, his head +bowed on his knees and his children crouching +near in the deepest wretchedness. Blowing our +whistle, as usual, we roused him; but after a momentary +glance his head fell again. All was ruin +and desolation, utter and complete. Even the +grove of banana trees that used to embower his +house had been swept away. And his wife was +nowhere to be seen.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_276" id="illo_276"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_304.jpg" alt="304" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">Twenty miles down the river we ran into the region of a +bush fire.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[278]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">PROSPERITY PALLS UPON ME.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> I grew better acquainted with the conditions +of life on board the coasting steamers, I became +extremely dissatisfied with my treatment on +board the <i>Helen M'Gregor</i>. For while I had the +usual duties of a lamp-trimmer to attend to, I was +also compelled to work at all hours as one of the +crew, while the heavy weights I was ordered to +handle were far beyond my strength, and several +times I was severely hurt. So that at a fitting opportunity +I left her, taking up my abode with a +shoemaker, who had a large connection among +steamer-hands, and for two or three weeks led the +unprofitable life of a gentleman at large. This +was bad for me in many ways. The company I +was thrown amongst was doubtful; I did not then +know how much so, and, although I did not get +involved in any of their shadier exploits, I began +to drink pretty heavily, and, to put it briefly, go to +the devil generally. This career was fortunately +put a stop to by the emptying of my purse, which +compelled me to get employment again.</p> + +<p>My next ship was one of the finest on the coast, +the last new vessel of the Australasian Steam Navigation +Company's (A.S.N.) fleet, which was called<span class="pagenum">[279]</span> +the <i>Wentworth</i>. To my juvenile ideas she was a +floating palace, everything on board being on a +grand scale as compared with the little <i>Helen +M'Gregor</i>. The mate was a huge Scotchman +named Wallace, rough as a bear, but very just and +straightforward. When he engaged me, he gave +me to understand that my duties consisted solely +in attending to the lamps and polishing the ornamental +brass-work about the deck, and that I was +on no account to do anything else or take orders +from anybody but himself or the captain. This, +added to the fact that my wages were now to be +three pounds ten shillings a month, made me feel +quite an important personage—in fact, I was almost +"too big for my boots." Everything on +board was so excellent in quality, and so well managed, +that I felt great pride in my ship, and I determined +that, as I had only one master to please, +I would do all I could to succeed. The first thing +I resolved was that no ship in harbour should have +such dazzling brass as mine, and, after I had polished +it all, I used to go round the other ships and +look at theirs. If there was one that I thought +looked more brilliant than mine, I would come +back and go over my polishing again until I was +satisfied, and so I gradually got the reputation of +being smart at brass-cleaning anyhow. I lived +entirely alone in a little cubicle by my lamp-room, +which was a spacious apartment, well fitted and +quite sheltered from the weather, being on the +main-deck. In return for trimming the cook's +lamps, I received all my meals from the saloon +messes, and thus I lived better than I have ever<span class="pagenum">[280]</span> +done before or since. Not that the men fared indifferently. +The food supplied to them was of the +best quality, and as for quantity—well, they had +steaks, chops, and potatoes, with unlimited baker's +bread, for breakfast; roast joints and potatoes for +dinner, and for supper the same as for breakfast. +The waste was shameful. The first two or three +hands to arrive on the spot where they took their +meals, would cut all the brown off a ten or twelve-pound +joint. When the laggards came along, if +the appearance of the meat was not to their liking, +which was usually the case, they would just fling +it over the side and go to the galley for more. The +cook dared not complain, as the officers always +took the crew's part. This partiality was owing +to the system obtaining, whereby a contractor +ashore supplied all provisions at so much per head, +finding cooks and stewards himself. And any suggestion +upon the part of his servants that food was +being wasted was always fiercely resented by every +member of the crew, who would immediately accuse +them of trying to fatten their employer at the +sailor's expense. The result was that as much +food was wasted each passage as would have supplied +another ship of the same size.</p> + +<p>Those were the palmy days of Australian coasters. +A.B.'s received £7 per month, and one shilling +and sixpence per hour overtime when in harbour, +while the day consisted of eight hours only. +Firemen got £10, and trimmers £8 per month, with +overtime in addition like the sailors. And, in justice +to them, it must be said that they seemed to +value their privileges, and did not behave in the<span class="pagenum">[281]</span> +senseless way that deep-water sailors usually do. +They spent a lot of money on dress and theatre-going, +it is true; but many of them owned house-property +or land. Nor was their life a hard one. +There was none of that tremendous drive and tear +seen on the American coast, where high wages are +paid—as if the officers are determined to get the +last ounce of energy out of every man because he +was well paid. No; take it all round, it was the +most comfortable sea-service that ever I saw or +heard of, and I never ceased to wonder at it, or imagine +that it was much too good to last. From +all reports that have reached me of late years, my +ideas on the latter point seem to have been well +founded, for I hear that neither pay nor conditions +of service are in any degree comparable with what +then obtained.</p> + +<p>As for me, I led a gentleman's life. Called at +daylight to take in the lamps, I was able to finish +all my work before ten a. m., and from thenceforward +I was my own master. So heavily did the +time hang when at sea, that I took in washing +from both sailors and firemen at the rate of three +shillings and sixpence per dozen, and thus earned +a lot of extra money. Unfortunately, I had no +ideas of thrift; and so, although I must have been +in receipt of at least thirty shillings weekly, I never +saved a penny. My earnings used to leak away as +if all my pockets were sieves. But, on the other +hand, the comfortable life, abundance of good +food, and freedom from ill-usage, had such an effect +upon my hitherto puny body, that I began to look +and feel as if I was capable of doing a good day's<span class="pagenum">[282]</span> +work, and should, therefore, not now be ashamed +to ask for employment. I no longer felt like a +sailor, nor did the prospect of a return to the old +life ever enter my head—in fact, I am afraid I never +thought of the future at all. My life was very +pleasant; and there was nobody in the world who +cared a row of pins what became of me—what +more natural than that I should, like any other +pampered animal, live contentedly in the present?</p> + +<p>Our usual trip was between Sydney and Melbourne, +and it generally occupied from eight to +ten days. Anything more delightful than the ordinary +run along the coast would be hard to imagine. +I got to know every landmark between +the two ports as intimately as one knows the route +between his work and his own street-door. But, +although I was always interested in the Australian +scenery, I felt delighted to hear one trip that we +were bound to Auckland next voyage. I had +heard so much of New Zealand that I had got to +regard it as a sort of fairy-land—a group of Islands +of the Blest. We left Sydney on Christmas +Eve for our Auckland trip, much to the disgust +of everybody on board except myself; but as we +carried the mails no delay could be allowed. The +next day we were, of course, out of sight of land, +steering straight across that stretch of the Pacific +that lies between Australia and New Zealand; the +sea was like a lake of glowing oil, and the sky a +fleckless dome of deepest blue, with one mighty +globe of molten gold hanging in its midst. Festivities +began early—so early, indeed, that by dinner-time +some of the fellows were getting very<span class="pagenum">[283]</span> +frivolous. There was a Gargantuan feed, of +course; and, after that—well, it was surely expecting +too much of human nature to suppose that +steam would or could be kept up as usual. At any +rate it wasn't. It went down, down, down, until, +by four p.m., the propeller was just feebly revolving, +the vessel making no more than two knots at +the outside. By dusk I verily believe that the +only two sober males on board were the captain +and myself. Drunkenness reigned supreme in saloon, +stokehold, and forecastle. By-and-by the +screw stopped altogether, and we lay almost motionless. +A few of the more vigorous revellers +made spasmodic efforts to "keep it up"; but +gradually the "fun" fizzled out, and general sleep +succeeded. How long it lasted I don't know, for +I turned in as usual; but in the morning she was +going again, though at no great speed, it is true. +The only redeeming feature about the whole orgie +was the absence of quarrelling. General good-humour +prevailed everywhere on board, and not a +word was said in recrimination after the resumption +of work. A day late, we sighted the Three +Kings—those solitary rocks off the north point of +New Zealand that stand up so sternly out of the +blue waste about them. When we made them +out, it was in the tremulous lovely light of dawn—beautiful +beyond expression in those latitudes—and +their rugged outlines stood out sharply +against the tenderly tinted sky, through that lucent +atmosphere, like the shadows cast by an electric +beam. Then, as the sun sprang into the smiling +heaven, they were gilded, and became like some<span class="pagenum">[284]</span> +fantastic ruin in black marble fringed with fiery +rays and floating on a sea of many-coloured flame. +A few hours' run brought us to the Gulf of Hauraki, +up which we steamed amidst some of the +most beautiful scenery in the world. As we glided +onward to where, apparently, a huge mountain +completely blocked up the apex of the gulf, a lovely +island was pointed out to me on the starboard +hand as the earthly paradise of Sir George Grey—Tiri-tiri. +Here I was told it was his custom to +receive troops of his Maori friends, and entertain +them for days, mingling with them without the +slightest consciousness of any difference of rank or +colour between him and them. No wonder they +loved him, and will hand his memory down to their +remotest descendants as the great white chief who +loved them and justice.</p> + +<p>Nearer and nearer we drew to Rangitoto, the +frowning peak that loomed heavily right in our +path. At last, when within a very short distance +of it, we made a sharp turn, and, skirting a reef +that extended some distance from its base, we +presently opened up Auckland Harbour, which, if +not so picturesque as its approaches might have +led one to expect, had all the merits that a good +harbour should have—pre-eminently, the chief +one of being safe with all winds. In a few minutes +we were alongside the wharf, and besieged by an +eager crowd who had been anxiously awaiting us, +as we were so much over our time. As was my +constant habit, I began at once to inquire as to the +fishing possibilities of the place, learning, to my +intense delight, that the harbour literally swarmed<span class="pagenum">[285]</span> +with fish of all kinds, and that even from the wharf +they could be caught in enormous quantities. +That settled my spare-time occupation for me. +During our three visits to the city, although our +stay lasted a week each time, I only went "up +town" twice, and then strictly on business. My +beloved sport claimed all my attention. For some +reason, perhaps to avoid accidents, the authorities +did not permit fishing from the wharf in working +hours. So at daylight, enthusiastic fishermen like +myself would gather along its lee edge, where the +furious current boiled and bubbled around the +piles, and eagerly try to "jag" a few of the tiny +mackerel that clustered in shoals wherever there +was an eddy. As soon as one was caught he would +be impaled on a large hook, fastened to the end of +a long, stout line, and cast out into the current +without any other gear attached. As the line +"slithered" through one's fingers an eager watch +was kept where the bait might be expected to be. +Presently, like a bar of silver, a huge fish would +leap into the air, and it was pull for your life. +There was no finesse, no sport, in the angler's sense +of the term, but I doubt if any angler ever enjoyed +his fishing more than I did. This particular kind +of fishing, however, always had to cease at six +o'clock, that is, when work began. At other times +I fished on the bottom from the ship, and was +often at a serious loss to know what to do with +the enormous numbers I caught. But even then +I did not realize how vast were the shoals of fish +in the harbour, until one day I took an oar in a +boat conveying a pleasure party from our vessel<span class="pagenum">[286]</span> +down the bay. When near the reef which fringed +Rangitoto Mountain, the numbers of kauwhai (a +fish much like an overgrown mullet, and averaging +four or five pounds in weight) were so great, that +each dip of the oar slew them until the water +around us was reddened with their blood. They +were a fish of most delicate flavour, and would +have commanded a high price in any civilized fish-market. +But the people of Auckland seemed +quite indifferent to the piscatorial advantages they +enjoyed.</p> + +<p>So in this pleasant, easy-going fashion the +months passed away, until one day we left Sydney +for Melbourne in the teeth of a southerly gale. It +was hopeless to expect that we should make any +progress; but I was told, that because we had the +mails on board, we were bound to "show willing." +We managed to get round the South Head, and +there we stuck; the engines doggedly pounding +away, green seas coming over all, passengers all +sea-sick, and we not gaining an inch against the +fierce wind that roared up from its icy breeding-place +in the Antarctic regions. At last the "governor" +carried away, and all attempts to repair it +were ineffectual. This, coupled with the fact that +night was coming on, determined our skipper to +run back and anchor in Watson's Bay, just behind +the North Head, for shelter. The word was given, +and she spun round as if rejoicing to be freed from +the enormous strain she had been undergoing. As +we drew rapidly near the mouth of the harbour the +sight was one of the grandest conceivable. From +the summit of the North Head—a gigantic cliff<span class="pagenum">[287]</span> +over four hundred feet high—fountains of spray +shot up forty or fifty feet into the air, the incalculable +pressure of those tremendous waves, rolling +up against it from their thousand-league journey, +having forced the reluctant sea upwards +through the interstices of that massy cliff to such +a stupendous height. We flew in through the entrance +and immediately all was still. As we +rounded to in the quiet little bay and dropped +anchor, it was almost impossible to realize what a +tormented waste of boiling sea we had just left, +since here we lay perfectly motionless, without a +ripple on the waters around. As it was dusk I +prepared the "riding-lamp," which is always suspended +from the fore-rigging of a vessel at anchor; +but, for some stupid reason of my own, I did not +place it in its position. Then I forgot all about +it. The captain was the first to discover its absence, +and, blowing his whistle for the chief officer, +he reproved him sternly for his inattention to this +important detail. Smarting at this, the mate +called me and asked why I had not put the light +up. I made some idiotic excuse, telling him +that it was already lighted and awaited his orders. +He was almost speechless with rage; but +controlled himself so far that he presently said +calmly, "Well, go and hang it up." I did so +promptly, and soon thought no more about it. +There was just this shade of excuse for me—that +I had never been anchored in a fairway before, +since I had been a lamp-trimmer, except up the +Clarence River, and there the gangway-lamp sufficed.<span class="pagenum">[288]</span></p> + +<p>We resumed our voyage on the morrow, and +returned to Sydney without incident worth remembering. +On the first morning after our arrival +the mate called me, and, giving me the balance +of my month's money, discharged me. Not +a word was said, but I felt sure of the reason, and +did not feel sufficiently courageous to try and appease +him. Nevertheless I was very sore, for I +knew that, while I had had one of the best ships +on the coast, I had also done my work thoroughly +well, for over and over again the mate had commended +me upon it. I slunk ashore like a beaten +dog, not caring what became of me, and, returning +to my old lodgings at the shoemaker's, set +about spending my little stock of cash in reckless +fashion. It did not last long, of course, and I was +soon fain to look for a ship; but, strange to say, I +hadn't the heart to try for another berth as a lamp-trimmer. +It suddenly occurred to me that I +would like to go "home" again. That is one of +the most incomprehensible things imaginable to +me. Never, during the first thirteen years of my +life at sea, did I have any home in England, or one +friendly face to welcome me back there. Yet, +however well I was treated in foreign countries or +in the Australasian colonies, I always felt a longing +to get back to my own country again; and the +sight of my home-land never failed to make a +lump come in my throat and raise a feeling of +wordless love for her in my breast. Why a homeless +waif should thus love his native land, I do not +profess to understand; but it is a solid fact, and +one that has to be reckoned with, since I do not<span class="pagenum">[289]</span> +for a moment suppose that I am any different to +the ordinary run of people.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this strange longing to see +the white cliffs of England once more, I neglected +the intercolonial steamers altogether, and spent +much of my time hanging about Circular Quay +watching the proceedings on board the splendid +clipper-ships that lay in that beautiful cove discharging +their outward cargoes of merchandise, or +filling their capacious holds with the wool, tin, +copper, and meat of the Colonies for transhipment +to the mother country. But, owing to a diffidence +that has always afflicted me, I did not venture +on board any of them to ask whether my services +were required, although I was now a sturdy +youngster, well able to do a day's work and looking +like it. One day, as I was prowling round one +of the outlying wharves, I got into conversation +with a burly Londoner, who was second mate of +an old barque lying there, apparently waiting for +freight, which was not forthcoming for any such +out-of-date craft as she was. This individual informed +me that his ship was in want of two ordinary +seamen, and that if I would go to a certain +hotel (<i>Anglicè</i>, public-house) in the vicinity, I +should find the skipper there, and that he would +probably engage me at once if I was willing. This +was by no means the kind of ship that I had proposed +going home in; but I was heartily weary of +being ashore doing nothing (my money was all +gone), so I turned my steps towards the skipper's +haunt at once. I found it without any difficulty—indeed, +the place was fairly well known to me by<span class="pagenum">[290]</span> +sight—and, entering, I inquired of a red-faced man +(who, in his shirt-sleeves, with unbuttoned vest, +was leaning over the bar from the inside, smoking +a "churchwarden" pipe) if he could tell me where +I might be likely to find Captain Bunker. He +turned a liquorish eye upon me, and murmured, +between the puffs of smoke, "What might ye be +wantin' of him?" "I'll tell him when I see him," +was my ready reply; at which he removed his pipe +and laughed most unmusically, much to my annoyance, +as I did not feel like being made game of. At +last he said, "I'm Captain Bunker, m' lad; whadjer +want of me?" For a moment I stared at him +incredulously; and then, the conviction dawning +on me that he was speaking the truth, I told him +my errand. Immediately he assumed a magisterial +air, and began to cross-examine me as to my qualifications, +etc. My replies being satisfactory, he +then tried to cut me down in the wages. But I +held out for three pounds per month, and, strange +to say, succeeded in getting his consent to give it +to me; but not before he assured me that, if I +couldn't fulfil what he was pleased to call the duties +of an ordinary seaman, he would stop my pay altogether. +As, in addition to my confidence in my +own abilities, I knew that he was talking nonsense, +I made no complaint about this; and he +drew me a glass of ale to clinch the bargain. +Then he told me I might go on board and consider +myself one of the crew, and that he would "sign +me on" with the other new hands in a day or two.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[291]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">ANOTHER QUEER SHIP.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> thus satisfactorily arranged for my future +during some months, at all events, I lost no +time in getting on board my new ship, finding her +fairly comfortable, although the crew's quarters +were under the top-gallant forecastle—that abominable +place that no men should ever be housed in. +She was called the <i>Harrowby</i>, a barque of some five +hundred tons, and, as nearly as I could judge, +about twenty years old. She had been absent from +England nearly two years, having been running +backwards and forwards between the Colonies and +Mauritius for some time, and was now, in the absence +of any other freight offering, going in ballast +to Rangoon for a cargo of rice to the United Kingdom. +Of her original crew but half was left: the +captain, mate, and second mate aft, two apprentices, +the carpenter, and three seamen forward. +The mate was a tall, wiry, red-headed Cumberland +man, stern and morose, but a good seaman, and inflexibly +just. The second mate was so fat and +easy-going that he looked more like an East-end +Jew tailor than a sailor; but he was a very jolly +fellow, knowing his business well, and thoroughly +independent, so that he stood not the slightest in<span class="pagenum">[292]</span> +awe of his superior officers, but did pretty much as +he liked. The two apprentices were gentlemanly +lads, whose parents had paid heavy premiums for +their indentures in this old tub, where they were +just loblolly boys, at every one's beck and call, no +one pretending to teach them anything, and kept +on precisely the same level as the crew, except that +they had a little pigstye of a berth to themselves +beside the carpenter's in a house on deck. Poor +lads! they were bitterly disillusioned, and full of +projects for showing up this shameful neglect when +they got home again. At this time one of them +was acting as cabin-boy, and the other was playing +at cook, with such casual direction as he could get +from Hansen, an old Danish seaman. But, generally +speaking, the hands went ashore to dinner +and chalked their bills up to the skipper's account. +The old carpenter was a philosopher in his way. +Nobody interfered with him, and he just muddled +along from day to day, finding himself enough +work to keep him from being actually idle, and +coming forrard every evening for a smoke and a +yarn with old Hansen, who, with a lanky Irishman +and a pimply faced young cockney, formed for the +present the whole of the crew forrard.</p> + +<p>To my amazement I learned that for nearly a +fortnight the vessel had been ready for sea, but the +old man was so enamoured of his snug quarters behind +the bar of the little pub, that he could not +tear himself away. Nobody seemed to care very +much. They killed time in a variety of ways, making +believe to do some work, but principally occupied +in "dodging Pompey." This state of<span class="pagenum">[293]</span> +things was broken into by my advent. Whether +the act of engaging me had recalled Captain Bunker +to a sense of his duty or not, I can not tell; but +in the course of a couple of days we were joined by +an elderly Yankee A.B., rejoicing in the name of +Oliver Peck, an ex-mounted policeman, whom we +always called Joe; a tall, merry Suffolk man, who +was the very incarnation of good-humour; a white-faced +Scotchman, who said he had been chief cook +of a huge steamship called the <i>Mikado</i>, and had +just shipped with us as cook to work his passage +home; another ordinary seaman, like myself, a +Londoner, but twice the man I was; and a delicate, +artful little fellow, about my own age, who +shipped as cabin-boy. Now we had a full crew, +and soon the skipper made his appearance on +board, marching us up to the shipping-office with +him in great pomp and putting us all on the articles. +Having once broken the spell that had +bound him to the pub, he kept free, remaining on +board that night, and hauling off into the channel +at daylight ready to sail. But while we were actually +getting under way a boat came alongside, bearing +a lady in deep mourning and an official, who +mounted the side, and solemnly presenting the +skipper with a piece of stamped paper, informed +him that he had come to stop the ship until all +charges due to Mrs. Blank, landlady of the St. +Margaret's Hotel, for board, lodging, and refreshments +supplied, had been settled. The old man +made a ghastly attempt to smile, but the thing +was too palpable. Besides, all his crew were witnesses +of his attempt to pay the widow with the<span class="pagenum">[294]</span> +"foretopsail sheet," as sailors say, and, hugely as +<i>they</i> enjoyed the spectacle, he looked as if he had +been suddenly attacked by <i>cholera morbus</i>. There +was no help for it; he had to pay up, although how +he did it I don't know. At any rate he succeeded +in satisfying the bailiff, who bade him an elaborate +farewell and descended to the boat, where the widow +was volubly holding forth, in our delighted +hearing, upon the many delinquencies of our skipper. +The news of the settlement of her claim only +seemed to add fuel to her fire, and, as long as she +was within hearing, she continued to favour us +with a minute account of the many acts and deeds +of meanness of which Captain Bunker had been +guilty. As the shrill sounds grew fainter, I could +not help thinking that it was an inauspicious commencement +for our voyage; and, in accordance +with an old mental trick of mine, began to run +over in my mind the probable state of my feelings +had I been in the skipper's place. There was quite +a little spell of silence after the boat's departure, +during which all hands looked first at one another +and then at the rubicund face of the skipper, which +bore a peculiar vacant smile, but not the slightest +symptom of shame. At last the uneasy quiet was +broken by the harsh voice of Mr. Messenger, our +chief, shouting, "Man the windlass!" In an instant +we were all busy again, and did not cease our +labours until the old barque, under all canvas, was +gliding gently down the beautiful bay towards the +wide Pacific.</p> + +<p>At first my hopes were high that we should be +going north about, for, in addition to a strong de<span class="pagenum">[295]</span>sire +to avoid the unpleasantness inseparable from +working to the westward through the Great Australian +Bight, I was anxious to see something of +the East Indian Archipelago. But the thought of +Torres Straits, with its intricacies and baffling currents, +was evidently too much for Captain Bunker's +courage or confidence in his navigating ability, for +we made the best of our way to the southward as +soon as we were well clear of the Heads. At the +picking of watches I found myself, much to my +satisfaction, under the second mate, who seemed to +have some little liking for me as his townsman. +My watch-mates were the Yankee, Oliver, the ex-policeman, +and the Suffolker. As I could steer, +and, except for being rather a light weight on a +rope, was well up to my work, we felt pretty well +manned on our side. But the mate's watch came +worse off, as their "ordinary" could not steer. +Oh, it was weary work after my late life of ease! +The deadly slowness of our progress, too, down +the coast I had been used to skirt with the regularity +of a railway-train, was hard to bear. And, +in addition to all this, I soon found that my poor +three pounds a month was rankling in the skipper's +mind, and he was determined to try and reduce it +if possible. I got a friendly hint or two from the +second mate, who, although he liked me well +enough, certainly did not intend to openly side +with me against the old man. In most matters, it +is true, he treated the skipper with such scant +courtesy that I was amazed, but he put in no word +of backing for me. A fortnight passed away, and +we had all fairly shaken down into sea-life, while I, +by strenuous efforts, had managed to recall all my +previous experience and use it, with the added +benefit of my additional strength. What troubled +me most were the stun'sails. Studding-sails, as +the word should be spelt, are the <i>betes noire</i> of +seamen. Modern vessels have practically discarded +them, happily for their crews; but such vessels +as the <i>Harrowby</i> cling to them as long as they live. +They are temporary sails, which in fair weather are +set at the ends of some of the yards, thereby extending +the spread of canvas (when they are carried +on both sides) to nearly double its normal +width. They are set by means of booms, which +slide along in two hoops screwed into bands on +the yards. These booms vary in size, of course, +with the ship, and also with the height at which +they are carried; but even a top-gallant stun'sail-boom, +the size of an average scaffold-pole, which +has to be rigged out by one man, or even a boy, is a +quite heavy enough piece of timber to have loose +on your hands, or hand (since you <i>must</i> hold on), +while swaying on a footrope some eighty or ninety +feet above the deck. Then the sails themselves, +with their complicated gear, require deft handling +to get them adjusted in their lofty positions, and +as the upper ones need to be taken into the tops, +there is some fancy gymnastic work involved in +handling them, which generally falls to the boys. +But when they <i>are</i> set, if there is any wind worth +mentioning, and the vessel does not steer well, the +helmsman has a bad time, for their gear being +necessarily slight and simple, catching them aback +is apt to bring them down by the run in a raffle of +ropes, torn canvas, and splintered booms. These +delights on a dark, wet night cannot be explained; +they must be endured to be appreciated. No +doubt a ship with stun'sails set below and aloft, +flying along with a steady breeze just abaft the +beam, the golden sunlight glancing on her canvas, +and making her look like a mountain of snow, +while the sparkling wavelets leap around her or are +churned into lovely wreaths of dazzling foam by +the eager sheer of her cutwater, makes a magnificent +picture, and one that will be soon only seen +in pictures. But when one remembers the cruel +toil and deadly danger attached to these "flying +kites," as sailors term them, one can only feel devoutly +thankful that their day is done. Unfortunately, +in the <i>Harrowby</i> we were continually harassed +by these wretched things, which was the +more aggravating as she was a dull sailer, to whom +they made not a shadow of difference as far as any +acceleration of her speed went. But we accepted +them grumblingly, as sailors do any other crook in +their never very straight lot. Nevertheless I felt +pretty sure that, sooner or later, I should suffer in +some severe way from them, and the fulfilment of +my forebodings was not long delayed. We got a +heavy breeze from the north-east off Cape Leeuwin, +and the skipper, laudably anxious to get +round that awkward corner and up north into finer +weather, carried on all the sail the old barkey could +stagger under, including topmast and lower stun'sails. +Now the <i>Harrowby</i> steered none too well +at the best of times, for she was fitted with the old-fashioned +chain and barrel steering-gear, that made<span class="pagenum">[298]</span> +a two hours' trick at the wheel a fairly stiff ordeal +for a youngster like me. By dint of the hardest +trying, however, I had managed so far to get along +without more than an occasional growl from the +skipper to the effect that I was making a devilish +bad course. At last, on the night in question, I +came aft at four bells, fully equipped in oilskins, +for it was raining as well as blowing. As I reached +to take the spoke from Oliver, he muttered, +"Yew'd better shed them oilskins, er she'll sweat +yer hull soul out. She's kickin' like a broncho." +I took his advice, preferring to get wet than to be +hampered by too many coverings at such a task. +It was as dark as the inside of a coal-sack, so that +there was nothing to steer by but the compass and +the "feel" of the wheel, which every sailor knows +is not conducive to keeping a straight course, as +the compass, however lively, never moves at the +same moment the ship's head does, and consequently +you can't meet her with the helm as quickly +as when the stars or clouds are visible and indicate +her slightest movement. Besides, the "old +man" was on deck, and, before I had time to get +into her present peculiarities, he was at me with, +"Now, then! mind y'r weather hellum. Where +th' —— er ye goin' with the ship? Meet her—meet +her! Blast your eyes, meet her! Goin' to sleep—er +what?" and so on. I might have done fairly +well but for this brutal nagging; but now I certainly +steered badly, and the thought of wiping her +up into the wind and bringing all that raffle of +stun'sails and gear down about the ears of the +watch on deck made me as nervous as a cat.<span class="pagenum">[299]</span> +However, I sculled her along somehow—about +two points each way, I reckon—the "old man" +keeping up a running commentary all the time, +until suddenly, along came a howling big sea, hitting +her on the weather-quarter and sending a +dense mass of spray right over the quarter-deck, +drenching my tormentor and twisting her up into +the wind till the weather-leech of the lower stun'sails +began to flap. Down sprang the second mate +to my assistance, and hove the wheel up so that she +spun off the wind again like a weather-cock. +"Oh, we can't have any more of this!" yelled the +old man. "That —— fellow's no good. 'Nother +hand to the wheel!" "'Nother hand to the +wheel!" roared the second mate; and I declare I +wasn't sorry, though my pride was sorely hurt +at the injustice of the thing. The Suffolker came +aft, good-humoured as was his wont, and smiled +pleasantly as he took the wheel from my clammy +hands. He favoured me with a sly wink, too, as +much as to say, "Now you'll see some fun!" As +I went forrard along the lee alley-way, the old +man followed me, saying. "I'll log ye to-morrow. +I'll show ye how ter come aboard my ship on false +pretences." This did my business, and I turned +savagely round, saying, "I <i>can</i> steer as well as any +man in the ship if I'm let alone, and you know that. +You only want an excuse to stop my wages——" +Further remarks were drowned in a tremendous +roar of tumbling water and cracking spars as the +ship flew up into the wind, taking a mighty mass +of black sea over all, and bringing the stun'sails +down with an uproar truly terrific. "All hands on<span class="pagenum">[300]</span> +deck! Tumble up, there! Shorten sail!" +screamed the skipper, fairly dancing in his excitement. +Well, there <i>was</i> a mess, and no mistake! +It took us three hours of hard struggle before we +got her clear and shortened down, and during that +time there were as many curses levelled at the old +sinner as would have sunk the British Navy if +their weight had been proportionate to the wishes +of their utterers. For my part I was speechless +with delight, for I felt if ever a poor fellow was +vindicated promptly it was me. The diversion +gave us all sore bones, though; and when, at last, +we got below, we were almost too weary to growl. +Stripping off our drenched rags we tumbled into +our bunks, and slept so soundly that the two hours +and a half left of our watch seemed only like five +minutes. I took my usual trick at the wheel +again without comment; but after breakfast, to +my amazement, I was called down into the cabin. +The skipper solemnly read to me an entry in the +Official Logbook to the effect that on the night of ——, +in lat. —, long. —, it having been found that +I could not steer, I was sent from the wheel as unfit +for my work, and, in consequence, my wages +were reduced to one pound per month. This libel +was signed by the second mate as a witness. I was +then invited to sign it; but I refused, saying that +the entry was false, and appealing to the second +mate to support my protest. He, standing behind +the skipper, gave me a reassuring wink which +cheered me mightily, and after bandying a few +more compliments with the skipper, I was told to +"Get out of my cabin." The events of the past<span class="pagenum">[301]</span> +night were the subject of a good deal of comment +forrard, and the general conclusion arrived at was +that the old man was no good, and any deference +or politeness towards him might usefully be +dropped in future.</p> + +<p>But something happened that day which, although +in no wise the skipper's fault, made the +feeling of insubordination ten times stronger than +it otherwise would have been. Hitherto we had +been living fairly well upon fresh meat and vegetables, +although the cooking was very bad. The +pasty-faced Scotchman who had shipped as cook +<i>might</i> have been cook of the <i>Mikado</i> as he said; +but, if so, he had certainly forgotten the most elementary +portion of his duties. Having just come +to an end of the fresh provisions, he informed us +pompously that he was going to make us "duff" +to-day, "An', ma wurrd," said he, with an air, "a'll +gie ye somethin' ye <i>can</i> eat! Ye dinna ken whatn' +duff's like aboord ther win'jammers." As may be +imagined, we were in high glee at the prospect of +such a notable benefit as high-class duff would be. +The last stroke was hardly off the bell at seven bells +before I was at the galley with the kid, my mouth +watering in anticipation of this superlative duff. +But it strikes me that the subsequent proceedings +were important enough for a new chapter.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[302]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">DEEP-WATER AMENITIES.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> cook stood by the galley stove, swelling +with conscious dignity, as of a man whose position +is unassailable—above criticism. "Now then, +cook!" I cried, "where's that duff?" For all +answer he seized his "tormentors"—a sort of miniature +pitchfork—and began jabbing them down +into the seething copper. "Look out, cook!" I +said, in terror, "you'll bust the duff-bag, won't +you?" No answer deigned he, but presently, +with a mighty heave of both hands, he produced a +square grey mass of something unlike anything +edible that ever I had seen. This he dumped into +the kid without a word, and waved his hand to bid +me begone. Too much amazed to speak, I bore +the ugly thing into the fo'lk'sle, setting it down in +the midst of my expectant watch-mates, and silently +retired to my corner in hungry anticipation +of some fun presently. Joe approached the kid, +knife and plate in hand, but on seeing the contents, +drew back with a start and an exclamation of +"What the —— is <i>that</i>?" "Duff, the cook calls +it," I murmured softly. "Well, I'll be —— if ever +I see or smelt anything like it in all my life," said +he; "but p'raps it eats better'n it looks, so here<span class="pagenum">[303]</span> +goes." So saying, he attacked it with his knife, +but only succeeded in removing some sodden, sloppy +morsels from the outside of the lump. Upon +the stuff itself he could make no impression; it +was like a piece of indurated gutta-percha. Heavens! +how he did swear. Then Oliver had a try; +but in a minute he, too, was reciting the commination +service. For the mess was hopeless. It was +nothing but a mixture of flour and water, without +yeast or fat, which had been roughly moulded into +a square, and, without any covering, had been +dropped into a cauldron of boiling, dirty sea-water. +Of course it had hardened and toughened, as well +as attracted to itself all the suspended grime in the +water, until it had emerged the outrageous abomination +before us. The men's wrath was really too +great for ordinary bad language; they wanted to +kill somebody. Presently Joe snatched up the kid +and rushed to the galley with it, but the cook had +wisely retreated to the cabin. Thither the furious +men followed him, shouting in strident tones for +him to "Come out of that!" they wanted to +speak to him. Of course the old man showed +himself first, blustering grandly about the impudence +that thus invaded the holy calm of his cabin. +This precipitated matters, and in about a minute +there was a furious row. It culminated presently +in Joe hurling the kid and its slippery contents +right into the cabin, and striding forward with a +savage string of oaths to the effect that not another +stroke would <i>he</i> do until he got something +that he could eat. Quiet reigned for a brief space, +until presently Harry, the cabin-boy, poked his<span class="pagenum">[304]</span> +nose round the fo'lk'sle door, saying with a grin, +"Cook's awful sorry he spiled the duff, but he's +coming forrard presently with a tin o' soup and +bully as soon's the old man's back's turned. Don't +go fer him, pore beggar! he's nearly frightened to +deth." The wrath having been mostly diverted +to the skipper, this proposition was not unfavourably +entertained, and in due time the cook sneaked +forrard with a hang-dog air, a huge tin of preserved +soup under his apron. And so it came to pass +that peace was patched up for the time, although +this outbreak of hostilities made the way plain and +easy for a succession of rows, until the skipper's authority +was a thing of naught. To make matters +worse we actually fell short of provisions. This +was a most scandalous thing to happen, for we +were only six weeks out from Sydney, where all +sorts of ship's consumable stores were both excellent +and cheap. And we were informed by one of +the apprentices that he knew for a fact that the +owners had ordered Captain Bunker to provision +the ship fully in the colonies for this very reason. +We were stinted in everything; but by the connivance +of the cabin-boy, Harry, who used to leave +the pantry door unlocked, I made many a nightly +raid upon its contents, such as they were. Many a +time I had to crouch in its dark recesses, while the +old man, prowling about on his bare feet, was peering +in and inquiring querulously, "Who's there? +I thought I heard somebody!" The instant his +back was turned I would bolt for the fo'lk'sle, with +my cap full of sugar or the breast of my jumper +full of cuddy biscuits, or whatever spoil was come<span class="pagenum">[305]</span>atable. +These nocturnal depredations were a +source of endless delight to the second mate. His +fat sides would shake with silent laughter as he +watched the stealthy glidings to and fro, and heard +the mutterings of the suspicious skipper, who +never dared say a wry word to him. One night, at +the wheel, I was telling him how savagely hungry +I was, when, to my amazement, he replied, "Well, +there's a meat pie on the swingin' tray, why don't +ye go an' pinch it?" "What?" I said in a horrified +whisper, "an' have the old man come out an' +catch me! Why he'd put me in irons for a +month." "G'way," he muttered scornfully, "he'd +never hear ye. No man thet smokes ez much ez +he does is a light sleeper. You ain't got pluck +enough, that's what's the matter with <i>you</i>. Yew'd +rather go hungry than run a little risk." The fact +was, I didn't trust him any too much, for it occurred +to me that it might fall in with his notions +of fun to see the old man come out and muzzle me +in the very act of embezzling that pie. His next +move, however, completely dissipated all my fears. +For he rolled off the hen-coop, where he had been +lolling, and disappeared below, returning in a few +minutes with the information that he had lashed +the old man's state-room door-handles together, +so that he couldn't get out if he did wake. I immediately +resigned the wheel to him, shot down +into the darkness, and had that pie on deck before +you could count ten. I sat on the break of the +poop and ate it, while the second mate steered +as well as he could for laughing at the precipitous +disappearance of the pie. When I had con<span class="pagenum">[306]</span>cealed +it all, I replaced the empty dish on the +swinging tray, and returned to the wheel. Then +the second mate cast adrift the lashings on the +door, and all resumed its normal calm, preceding +the hurricane at breakfast-time, when the loss +was discovered. But there was no breach of +confidence, and the vanished pie took its place +among the unsolved mysteries of life for Captain +Bunker.</p> + +<p>As we crept closer and closer to our port, favoured +by fine weather, discipline disappeared altogether +as far as the skipper was concerned. +Work still went on as usual out of deference to the +officers, with whom the chaps felt they had no +quarrel, but if the old man opened his mouth he +was sure to be insulted by somebody. I have not +told—indeed, I dare not tell—a tithe of the things +that were said to him; the only persons preserving +any show of deference towards him being old Hansen +and the boys. The officers, of course, did not +openly flout him—they just ignored him, while he +almost cringed to them. And then one day, a +week before our arrival off the mouth of the Irrawaddy, +Harry came forrard and told us something +that made sport for all hands for the rest of that +voyage. Everybody was hungry now, fore and +aft, the commons being woefully short. But at +the usual time for taking the forenoon sights for +longitude, the skipper being in his state-room with +the door shut, Harry went to call him, supposing +him to be asleep. After knocking two or three +times, Harry heard a muffled voice within saying, +"Go away, I'm at my devotions." Such a state<span class="pagenum">[307]</span>ment +took Harry's breath away for a moment, but +yielding to an uncontrollable impulse, he stooped +and peeped through the keyhole. There sat Captain +Bunker, a square tin of biscuits between his +knees, a pot of jam open by his side, and his mouth +bulging with the delicate food. Harry had seen +enough; and in ten minutes it was all over the +ship. From that time forward, "Don't disturb +me, I'm at my devotions," was heard whenever it +was possible to drag it in, until the monotonous +repetition of the phrase became wearisome as a +London catch-word. It annoyed the skipper almost +to madness; but that only gave delight to the +men, who felt that at last they had got hold of a +cheap and effective way of repaying him for the +hardships they were enduring through him.</p> + +<p>We were favoured with splendid weather, although +the north-east monsoon, being almost +"dead on end"—that is, blowing right from the +direction in which we had to go—made our progress +exasperatingly slow; and as the scanty stock +of bad provisions got lower and lower the gloomiest +anticipations prevailed. But we managed to +reach Elephant Point before we were quite starved, +and with the utmost joy received a white pilot on +board, who, finding that he was likely to hunger if +he had to make any lengthened stay with us, used +all his skill to get us into port quickly. There +were some fine screw-tugs plying on the Irrawaddy, +but, of course, we could not avail ourselves +of their assistance, the towage being enormously +high, and our old man most anxious to curtail expenses +to balance his waste in other directions.<span class="pagenum">[308]</span> +So we were treated to an exhibition of backing and +filling up the river on the flood, just as the old +Geordie colliers do to this day up the Thames: a +feat of seamanship requiring a great deal of skill for +its successful accomplishment. Of course the tide +will carry a vessel up the river, but it is necessary +to keep her under control, and, with the wind +blowing straight down the river, the only way of +doing this is to stand across the stream, say on +the starboard tack, with all sails full; then, when +as far as possible has been sailed, to haul the yards +aback, and go stern foremost back again. In this +manner we worked up the noble stream, finding +ourselves at the turn of the tide within a few miles +of our destination, at a spot known as Monkey +Point. Here we anchored for the night, the rushing +of the swift ebb past us keeping up a continual +undertone of energy, and straining our cable out +taut as if we were stemming a gale. All manner +of bloodthirsty insects boarded us in battalions, +lured in our direction, doubtless, by the smell of +fresh supplies of food, and through their united +efforts we spent a most miserable night. So much +were we tormented, that when daylight called us +to resume our journey we were languid and worn-out, +hardly able to tear the anchor from its tremendous +hold upon the thick, elastic mud forming +the bed of the river. We got under way at last, +however, and then another couple of hours brought +us up to the anchorage off the city, where a great +fleet of steamers and ships lay loading rice, mostly +for India, for the relief of a famine which was then +raging.<span class="pagenum">[309]</span></p> + +<p>We moored with an anchor ahead and another +astern, as is usual in crowded anchorages, so that +the vessel, as I have before explained, swings round +and round as if moored to a post, taking up little +more room than her own length. In many respects +this was the strangest place that I had yet +visited, the pointed spires of the numerous pagodas +rising out of the dense leafage giving the city +a truly Eastern appearance, while the lofty shining +summit of the great pagoda dominated everything +else. As soon as the work of furling sails and +clearing up decks was done—as the skipper had +hurried ashore—we were allowed the remainder of +the day to rest, and, rigging up an awning over the +forecastle, we proceeded to enjoy ourselves. Here +the boats are propelled by the boatmen in exactly +the same way as a gondola is, and the way those +fellows managed their cumbrous craft in the swift +current was something compelling all our admiration. +The native vessels, too, that came majestically +gliding down from far up country laden with +rice for shipment, were the most interesting that I +had yet seen. They were of large size, some of +them carrying fifty tons of cargo, and roofed in by +a deeply slanting covering of bamboo mats to protect +the cargo. Both stern and bow rose in a +graceful curve, while the stem often towered high +in air—a perpendicular beam of teak most richly +carved into elaborate designs of the quaintest and +most eerie character. A tiny deck aft accommodated +the steersman, who with great effort manipulated +a gigantic oar working through a hole in the +stern, also richly carved and decorated in some<span class="pagenum">[310]</span> +cases with gilding. But the men—the yellow, almond-eyed +Burmese—not satisfied with the prodigious +amount of labour expended on the adornment +of their craft, decorated their own bodies so +elaborately that it was difficult to understand however +they could have borne the tedium of the tattooing, +to say nothing of the pain. No people +in the world carry the practice of tattooing to +such artistic lengths as the Burmese universally +do. Every man we saw had a magnificent +series of designs covering his trunk to the waist, +executed in vermilion, and representing flowers, +animals, and graceful whorls filling in any +spaces too small to allow of anything else +being tattooed there. From the waist to the +knees they were tattooed in blue, the designs +being plainer and not so artistic as above. They +were a jolly, cheerful lot; but dignified, too, having +none of the exuberance of the negro about +them.</p> + +<p>Just across the river, opposite to where we lay, +was a great saw-mill, where a herd of a dozen elephants +were gravely occupied in drawing teak-logs +from rafts in the water up through the mud, +and piling them in stacks well above high-water +mark. They worked in couples, and seemed to +need no directing what to do. Two or three natives +lounged about among them; but every effort +they made was apparently the result of their own +initiative as far as could be seen. They worked in +couples—sedately, ponderously; but the sum-total +of their labour was quite in keeping with their +huge bulk. One enormous beast was apparently<span class="pagenum">[311]</span> +the foreman (our fellows called him the bo'sun). +He roamed about leisurely, bearing in his trunk +a couple of yards of massive chain, which he +flourished now and then as if it were a scourge +which he would use upon his toiling charges +should he see fit to encourage them to more +strenuous effort. But as we stared at the strange +sight with intense interest, there was a jet of +steam from the mill, a deep whistle sounded, +and on the instant every elephant dropped whatever +he had in his trunk and, with quickened +steps, made for his quarters. It was "knock-off +time."</p> + +<p>Work proceeded in a very easy-going fashion, +for the captain had taken up his quarters on shore +and did not return for several days, being supposed +by all of us to have entered upon a steady course of +spree. We got the hold ready to receive the cargo, +and did such other duties as were required of +us, without any undue strain upon our energies, +while our bumboatman kept us well supplied with +all such luxuries, in the way of fruit, soft-tack, eggs, +etc., as sailors delight in in Indian ports. Matters +proceeded in this way until one day an order came +off from the skipper that an anchor-watch must be +kept. This meant that, instead of one man keeping +watch all night, and being free from any other +duty, every man must take one hour's watch in +addition to his day's work. Now, this sort of vigil +is only kept during a temporary anchorage, never +as a harbour duty; and, consequently, there was +an instant refusal to obey unless the day's work +was shortened. The officers, having no authority<span class="pagenum">[312]</span> +to do this, refused to entertain the idea, and the +result was that no regular watch was kept at all. +Two or three nights passed until, in the midst of a +tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, +I was roused by old Hansen with the words, +"Tom, id's your vatch, und de olt man's 'longside, +kigging up de fery teufel 'cause dere's nopody +avake." I was lying on the forecastle head under +the awning, nearly stifled with the heat; and, muttering +a blessing upon the old man, I pulled off my +sole garment, and sallied forth into the black, +steaming deluge in the costume of Adam before +the fall. As I reached the gangway the old man +just climbed on board; and at that moment a flash +of lightning revealed everything as if in full noonday +glare—especially my shining white skin. He +was just angry drunk; and the sight of me standing +there, naked and not ashamed, nearly made +him split with rage. He howled like a hyena for +the mate, who, startled beyond measure, came +rushing out of his cabin into the flood. Turning +savagely to him, the skipper, almost unintelligibly, +demanded the reason of this disgraceful state of +affairs—pointing to me, standing, like Lot's wife, +under the incessant play of the lightning. It was +an irresistibly funny tableau. Over the rail peered +the black faces and glaring eyeballs of the Hindu +boatmen who had brought the skipper off, their +impassive faces showing no sign of the wonder they +must have felt at these unprecedented proceedings. +The hissing downpour of rain descended +pitilessly, its noise almost drowning the infuriated +voice of Captain Bunker, who, foaming with rage,<span class="pagenum">[313]</span> +berated the saturnine mate. Every other second +we were all invisible to each other—the darkness +engulfed us. Then a rending glare of white light +revealed us all again, standing as if posing for our +portraits. The mate tired of it first, and, turning +to me, said grimly, "Go an' get some close on. +Y'ought ter be 'shamed o' yerself comin' aft like +that." I instantly retreated forrard, while the old +man, still raging, followed the mate as he returned +to his cabin without deigning a word of reply. I +rigged myself hurriedly and came aft again, prepared +to keep the rest of my watch under the +poop-awning in such comfort as I could. But I +had hardly lit a cigar (the rupee a hundred sort), +and settled myself cosily in the skipper's long chair, +when that restless man emerged from the companion +and strolled towards me. I did not stir—indeed, +it was too late, since I was caught. I +could only brazen it out. At first I feared his rage +would choke him, for he gasped as if the flow of +eloquence was literally strangling him in its frantic +efforts to find a vent. Suddenly he made two +steps towards me, gurgling as he did so, "Git off +my poop or I'll kick ye down the steps!" I +sprang lightly out of my seat and stood on the defensive, +saying nothing, but backing cautiously to +the ladder, which I descended with my face towards +him. I heard no more of him afterwards, +for my watch was soon over, and my relief, one of +the apprentices, came on watch at once. Next +day there was a regular inquiry into the vexed +anchor-watch question; and, after much heated +discussion, it was arranged that we should resume<span class="pagenum">[314]</span> +work one hour later each morning and keep regular +watch one hour each through the night. As +soon as this was settled our worthy chief departed +on shore again; and there, to our great relief, he +remained.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[315]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">PROCEEDINGS AT RANGOON.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Freed</span> from the annoyance of the captain's +presence, we were by no means an unhappy crowd. +Lying in such a crowded anchorage there was +plenty of sight-seeing, and the coming and going +of vessels was incessant, owing to the demand for +rice to feed the famishing millions on the other side +of the Bay of Bengal. Besides that, we youngsters +often got a run ashore when the mate or second +mate wanted to go up town, which was pretty +frequent, as there was no restraint upon them. To +while away the time of waiting on the pier for them +we used to have great fun with the boatmen, who +squatted there sucking their eternal hubble-bubbles +and chattering continually. Many a queer +yarn, in queerer gibberish, did I hear from those +good-natured fellows, only understanding about +one word in ten that they said, and averaging the +rest; so that I have no doubt that a comparison +between my idea of a story and the story itself +must have been exceedingly funny. But one day, +when surrounded by a knot of Hindus, I suddenly +remembered that when I was quite a child I had +read in <i>Chambers' Miscellany</i> a number of stories of +Hindu mythology, all of which were as fresh in my<span class="pagenum">[316]</span> +memory as the alphabet. Accordingly I commenced +to repeat the "Avatar of the Fish" in +such broken English, and occasional native words, +as I thought would best convey my meaning. The +effect was wonderful. Usually undemonstrative, +they seemed fairly startled out of all their reserve, +and over the ring of eager black faces wave after +wave of conflicting expressions chased one another, +while broken ejaculations burst irrepressibly +from their parted lips. As the well-known names +of Rama, Vishnu, Siva, Ganesh and Co. rolled trippingly +off my tongue, their delight knew no +bounds; and when at last I halted for lack of +breath, they were ready to give me anything they +possessed. Thenceforward I was a prime favourite +among them. Well for me that it was so, for +very shortly afterwards an event happened that +nearly brought my career to a premature close. I +had been shaking hands with them all round, and +boy-like, had been showing off my strength by +squeezing their delicate hands in mine, extorting +from them all sorts of queer grimaces and expressions +of wonder at my strength of wrist. Presently +a Mussulman joined the group. He had just +come up from the water, where he had been bathing, +after having his poll shaven. Clad only in a +waist-cloth, his torso was fully revealed, its splendid +proportions showing a development that many +a pugilist would have envied. Our proceedings +did not appear to please him, for he wore a most +diabolical scowl, which, as he was anything but +handsome, gave me a serious disrelish for his company. +But suddenly, as if by an uncontrollable<span class="pagenum">[317]</span> +impulse, he thrust out his hand to me, making +signs for me to try my strength on him. I would +have refused, but pride forbade; so I placed my +hand in his and waited for his grip, determined to +show no sign even if the blood should spurt from +my finger-tips. We stood facing one another thus +for almost a minute, when, without warning, he +lifted my arm high, and at the same time thrust me +backwards towards the edge of the wharf, which +was thirty feet above the mud (the tide being out) +and totally unprotected. Another second and I +should have been over, when the whole crowd of +boatmen rushed at him, and, dragging him off me, +forced him to retreat up the wharf shorewards. +Mad with rage I seized a log of wood and rushed +after him; but the remainder of my friends surrounded +me, and implored me not to pursue him, +as I should certainly be killed. And, indeed, as +soon as I cooled down somewhat, the justice of +their contention was evident, for in those tortuous +alleys one might be attacked from a dozen differing +directions at once, and never see the aggressor. +Therefore I felt glad that I had not been allowed +to have the way my mad folly would have led me, +and thankfully meditated upon my undoubtedly +narrow escape. The affair made a deep impression +upon me, for it was the only time in all my +experience that I was ever attacked abroad.</p> + +<p>The loading of our vessel proceeded very slowly, +which was not to be wondered at, since all the +energies of the shipping people seemed to be absorbed +by the demands of the big steamships that +were incessantly carrying rice to Calcutta because<span class="pagenum">[318]</span> +of the famine. But, slow as it was, it gradually +approached completion, and the important question +began to occupy all our minds: Were we going +to get any liberty or money? Since the night +of the skipper's surprise-visit, we had only seen +him once, and that was when he returned on shore +the next morning. The officers were warily approached +upon the subject, but they knew no more +than we did of the skipper's movements or intentions. +At last, after a prolonged council of war, it +was decided to send him a letter, signed by one of +the A.B.'s on behalf of the rest. But then the difficulty +arose: who was to write the important +document? Not one of the men was capable of +doing so—in fact, I was the letter-writer in ordinary +for all hands. So I was approached as to my +willingness to do what was required. I readily +consented, only stipulating that I should be held +blameless in the event of trouble ensuing. "Oh, +of course," said they all, "we wouldn't let you +take the blame." Well, I wrote the letter, and, +although I was no hand at composition, I remember +that it was exceedingly terse and to the point. +With a good deal of pride I read it to the assembled +conclave, and all agreed that it was a model of what +such a letter ought to be. But when it came to +signing the document, I was disgusted to find that +each man was anxious that some other fellow +should have the honour. All professed readiness +to take the responsibility, but when it came to putting +their names to paper they hung back. At +last, to my secret amusement, the old Dutchman, +Hansen, said, "Oh, all righd, put my name to id;<span class="pagenum">[319]</span> +I tondt care for te oldt man nodt a liddle pidt." It +struck me at once that the old fellow had no idea +of the vigour of the language used, but that was +none of my affair. So "Hans Hansen" was appended +to the letter; it was enclosed in an envelope, +and sent per the "dubash" to the "British +Burmah Bar," where the old man was living. In a +perfect fever of excitement I awaited the result. It +was not long delayed. Shortly after dinner the +skipper came on board in a perfect fury, and, before +he had got his foot over the rail, yelled for +Hansen. The poor old Dutchman paddled aft, +shaking like a feather-vane in a gale of wind, and, +when he got to where the old man was standing, +he looked as if his legs would double up under him. +Good heavens! how the skipper did rave. Seeing +who he had to deal with he just spread himself, so +to speak, and, much to his satisfaction, succeeded +in scaring Hansen nearly to death. Suddenly my +name was called, and, in a moment, I recognized +that I had been given away. Well, I had to face +the music; so I determined to put the best face I +could upon the matter, and, in any case, to show +no cowardice. I strolled quietly aft, and received +the old sinner's broadside with a perfectly unmoved +front. He threatened me with prison—almost +hanging—for the unparalleled crime I had committed; +but I smiled sweetly, and, as soon as I +could get in a word, I told him he couldn't do anything +to me at all. Then he changed his tactics, +and tried to wheedle me into saying that the men +had compelled me to write, and begged me to tell +him whose composition it was. Having by this<span class="pagenum">[320]</span> +time grown bolder, I told him that I was the author, +and that I felt proud of it. This so enraged +him that he ran at me foaming and screaming to +me to get out of his cabin. But, even then, his +prudence did not desert him, for he never ventured +to strike me, and both the officers remained strictly +neutral. And, after all, the desired end was attained +for every one except myself, for the next +day liberty was announced, with cash to the extent +of twenty rupees each. But from this I was +to be excluded. However, after the other fellows +had gone, my fellow ordinary seaman and I were +told by the mate that we might go too, if we +chose, but that he had no money to give us. We +had a couple of rupees between us, enough to +get ourselves something to eat, so we gladly +availed ourselves of his permission and were soon +ashore.</p> + +<p>From the first hour of our arrival I had looked +with longing eyes upon the mighty mass of the +Golden Pagoda, and never ceased hoping that I +might be able to see it near at hand; and now I +determined to lose no time in realizing my desires. +Bill wanted to go down town, and hunt up some of +our shipmates for the purpose of borrowing a little +from them; but I dissuaded him, and, after a bottle +of beer each, and the purchase of a fistful of cigars +for the equivalent of twopence, we trudged off. +There was no mistaking the way, for the road was +broad and the pagoda itself was our guide; but I +have ever since rejoiced that I did not know how +far it was, or I certainly should never have visited +it. The fierce sun glared down upon the white<span class="pagenum">[321]</span> +dusty road so that it was like walking in an oven; +gharries and ekkas rolled tantalizingly by, and our +throats became like leather. But we persevered, +and after I am afraid to say how long, we came +at last to the imposing avenue of colossal black +marble monsters leading to the first plateau. Immensely +broad flights of steps led up to an enormous +platform, around which we roamed, bewildered +by the wonderful array of uncouth monsters +grouped everywhere. Then up more steps on to +another plateau from whence sprang the central +mass, a sort of pyramid without angles, and rising +in broad steps of masonry which, flat at first, gradually +sloped upward until they were lost in the glittering +cone of the towering summit. Around the +base of this vast structure were small temples like +porticoes leading to the interior of the main building; +but far as we could see, each of them was +self-contained, and no entrance to the central edifice +was visible. I made many inquiries whether +that great pyramid was solid, or contained chambers +of any sort; but the answers I got were so +conflicting that I could come to no conclusion at +all. The strangest feature of the whole wonderful +place was the number of elaborately decorated bells +of all sizes which hung about, some of them on the +most flimsy erections. They emitted, when struck, +tones of the most silvery sweetness, such as I have +never heard from bells (except specimens from the +same country) before or since. And presently we +came upon one in a secluded corner that must be, +I should think, one of the largest bells in the world, +although I have never seen any mention of it in<span class="pagenum">[322]</span> +books or articles where big bells are spoken of. It +was hanging under a sort of conical shed, suspended +from a gallows built of huge baulks of teak, but +its lip was only about eighteen inches off the +ground. It was covered with inscriptions—in Burmese, +I suppose—but had no other enrichment. +Curious to hear its tone, I struck it with a large +deer-horn, of which there were many lying about; +but there was no response. Harder and harder I +struck, until at last Bill hove a massive fragment of +stone against it with all his force; but still not a +sound could be heard—no, not so much as an iron +wall would have given back. Baffled in sampling +its tone, we tried to measure it roughly, and found +that with outstretched arms we could reach round +it in four times. This would make its circumference +about twenty feet. Then, lying flat on my +back, I tried to measure its thickness of metal; but +my arm was not long enough—it was much thicker +than I could reach in from outside. Its height +I should estimate at twelve feet; but that is very +rough, since we had no pole. Altogether a grandfather +of bells. Gilding was going on in all directions, +the workmen perched upon flimsy bamboo +scaffolding in all sorts of precarious positions; and +I remember trying to calculate how much gold it +must take to keep so great a place brilliant. I did +not then know that the gold-leaf was one of the +principal offerings made by worshippers, although, +when we presently entered one of the temples, and +witnessed the worship, the strangeness of the proceedings +ought to have enlightened me. Yellow-garbed, +close-shaven Phoongyees were squatting<span class="pagenum">[323]</span> +all over the pavement of the building, apparently +absorbed in reverent adoration of the row of idols +ranged along the inner end of the place. Yet, at +the same time, more workmen were busily engaged +in gilding the idols themselves—one, especially, +was plastering the face of the central figure with it, +until it shone in that dim hall like a setting sun. I +was speechless with wonder at what seemed such a +strange mixture of irreverence and worship. +While I stood silently gazing at the strange scene, +a voice near me said, in most perfect high-bred +English, "I suppose you don't believe in this, do +you?" I turned sharply; and there at my elbow +stood a Chinaman, simply dressed in white silk, +with purple cap and shoes. A delightful subtle +scent exhaled from his robes, and a gentle smile +played about his calm, intellectual face. In fact, +"gentleman" was writ large upon him; but I +could not grasp the idea that it was he who had +spoken. As soon as my bewilderment had passed +a little, I said, "Was it you that spoke just now?" +He nodded, and repeated his question. "Of +course not," I answered; "neither do you, I should +imagine?" With the slightest possible shrug of +his shoulders, he said, "Why not? I do not claim +to be wiser than the myriads of my ancestors whose +faith it was. What sufficed them may surely content +me." "But," I replied eagerly, "you have +evidently studied in some English-speaking country, +and you must have read our books. Did they +not alter your opinions as to the wisdom of your +ancestors?" "I have taken my B.A. degree at +Cambridge," said he, "and I am fairly conversant<span class="pagenum">[324]</span> +with Western literature; but upon religious topics +I do not profess any opinions. The subject is far +too vast for me to attempt to take up, since it +would necessarily mean the exclusion of all others; +and I have much to do. Consequently I accept +unquestioningly that form of religion in which I +was born, taking the line of least resistance. But +I must bid you good day, hoping you will enjoy +your visit." And before I could say another word +he was gone. I felt very small and ignorant beside +this exquisite Oriental, whose gracious manners +and beautiful voice have haunted me ever since, +and, although I am fully conscious how poor a +figure I must have cut beside so gifted and highly +educated a man, I have never ceased to regret that +I did not have a longer enjoyment of his pleasant +company. While I still stood musing over this +strange encounter, a heavy hand was laid upon my +shoulder, and, turning sharply round, I was confronted +by our second mate, whose ill-fitting +clothes, gross, animalized face and boisterous behaviour, +formed a complete contrast to the dainty +gentleman who had just quitted my side. "Hullo!" +he said with a sneer, "what you doin' ere, +hay? Goin' ter turn Me'ommedun?" I made +some jesting reply, looking anxiously meanwhile +at his cigar, and then at the silent row of priests, in +grave doubt as to how they might take his noisy +behaviour in their sacred building. But they were +apparently used to it, for they took not the slightest +notice. "Got 'ny money?" he queried with a +grin, knowing pretty well how unlikely it was. +Upon my telling him how poorly we were off, he +<span class="pagenum">[325]</span>kindly gave me two rupees and then went on his +way.</p> + +<p class="spacer"> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> + <a name="illo_325" id="illo_325"></a> + <img border="0" src="images/illo_355.jpg" alt="355" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">"I suppose you don't believe in this, do you?"</p> + +<p>As I had by this time had quite enough of +sight-seeing, besides being hungry and thirsty, I +started to look for my chum; and, after some +search, found him sitting in a shady angle of the +great flight of steps, intently watching the impassive +figure of one of a long row of mendicants that +lined the side of the way up to the temple. He +was quite happy, and very much interested in the +queer offerings that he had seen made to the beggar +whom he had been studying. Shreds of tobacco, +a few grains of rice, and other trifles unfamiliar +to us, but of the tiniest possible value, +were being dropped into his basket by the native +passers-by, in response to the mellow note which +resounded from a triangular piece of metal which +he held suspended from a stick, and occasionally +tapped with a bone. "Goin' ter give him anythin', +Bill?" I asked. "'Oo? Me? Wot djer +tek me for? Lazy ole swine! I bet 'ees got a —— sight +more brass 'n you er me'll ever 'ave. +No bloomin' fear!" It may have been fancy, but +certainly I thought I saw a gleam in that beggar's +filmy eye as if Bill's contemptuous words were +quite understood by him. "Well," I said, "I'm +goin' ter give 'im a tanner fer luck." And, as I +spoke, I fished out four annas and dropped the little +piece of silver into his cup. I turned to go immediately; +but he stretched forth a skinny arm, +offering me a withered, blood-red flower, and murmuring +some (to me) utterly unintelligible words. +Now, I would not willingly hurt any one's feelings<span class="pagenum">[326]</span> +gratuitously; so I smiled cheerfully back, accepted +his flower, and saying, "Bote accha; Salaam, ole +stockin'," skipped off down the steps, followed +grumblingly by Bill. As we went, I told him of +the second mate's gift. He immediately suggested +taking a gharry back. I was in no wise loth to +agree, for the remembrance of our morning's +trudge was anything but pleasant. But, when we +arrived at the place where the vehicles were +grouped, those infernal gharry-wallahs were all so independent +that they wouldn't bate a pice of three +rupees for the trip. As this was quite out of the +question, we took the road again with heavy hearts +and aching feet: Bill cursing, in choicest Bermondsey, +niggers in general and gharry-wallahs in +particular. For about half a mile we trudged +along, when, suddenly turning a slight bend in the +road, we sighted a gharry ambling along with one +door open. A bright thought seized me, and, +whispering to Bill my idea, we hurried noiselessly +after the slowly-moving carriage. As soon as we +got near enough, we saw that the driver was soundly +asleep upon his box, the reins dangling loosely +from his fingers, and the old horse plodding along +at his own sweet will. Gently we popped into the +crazy old ambulance, quietly closed the door, and +lounged back like two plutocrats. I don't think +I ever enjoyed a ride more, for, slowly as we went, +we arrived at the gharry-stand in Phayre Street all +too soon to suit me. Before the gharry stopped +we opened the door, and, quietly as we had entered, +were stepping out, when that unlucky Bill +caught his foot in the step, and, catching at the<span class="pagenum">[327]</span> +door to save himself, gave the whole concern a +heavy lurch. This effectually roused the driver, +who jumped down off his box and demanded his +fare. Bill was furious (at being caught, I suppose), +and was proposing to slay and eat the fellow, +whose yells speedily brought all his chums +round. As I was getting nervous I offered him +eight annas, at the same time trying to pacify my +burly shipmate, who was carrying on like a madman. +Fortunately a white policeman came along, +before whose dignified approach all the clustering +natives stood respectfully back. To him I told +the exact facts of the story. Without a word he +took the eight annas from me, gave it to the hack-man, +and uttered the single word "Jao." The +effect was magical. The crowd melted away, and +we were at liberty to resume our journey. The +rest of the day passed uneventfully enough. We +had a splendid dinner in one of the bazaar dining-rooms +at a rupee each, washed it down with a bottle +of Bass, and, after sundry cigars, strolled leisurely +down the pier, and sat there enjoying the +coolness of the evening, until, feeling tired of +shore, we hailed the ship, and were fetched on +board by the two apprentices. A quiet night's +rest succeeded; but the morning brought diversions. +The ex-policeman came on board quietly +enough, as befitted a man accustomed to discipline; +but the rest, with the exception of old +Hansen, who returned early on the previous day, +were in a parlous state. Two did not return; and, +later, news came that they were safely in chowkey, +having covered themselves with glory by routing<span class="pagenum">[328]</span> +a whole brigade of native police who tried to arrest +them, and caused grievous bodily harm to +several white constables who had finally carried +them off. One of them was the jolly Suffolker, +who had thus falsified all my previous estimates of +his amiability; the other was Mick, the long Irishman, +at whose outburst nobody was surprised. It +is hardly necessary, perhaps, to say that no work +was done that day, except a little clearing up +decks, for which of course we boys were available. +But, towards evening, the repentant revellers began +to realize the extent of their folly, and to appear, +in some measure, ashamed of themselves. +Just at sunset a police-boat arrived bringing Mick, +a deplorable object, his clothes hanging from him +in festoons, and his flesh caked up with dried filth +and blood. He was certainly much the worse for +wear, but filled with an unholy delight at the +thought of the glorious time he had enjoyed. It +appeared, however, that the behaviour of Charley +the Suffolker had been so outrageous, and his refusal +to return to his ship so decided, that the authorities—lenient, +as they undoubtedly were, to +sailors—were compelled to give him a month's +hard labour. Upon hearing his sentence he lifted +up his voice and shouted, "Hooray!" to the great +annoyance of the magistrate, who had him incontinently +man-handled off to the cells.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[329]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">HOMEWARD-BOUND IN DIFFICULTIES.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">And</span> now—our cargo being all on board, sails +bent, and hatches battened down—we began to +look forward to the homeward passage. But our +anticipations were in no sense pleasurable, for, although +we had certainly lived well while in port, +we had as yet received no stores for sea use, and we +were in grievous doubt as to the intentions of our +commander in this respect. At last, when we +were fully prepared to refuse to proceed unless we +saw some reasonable prospect of being fed while +at sea, a boat-load of stores came off, accompanied +by a new recruit to take the place of Charley, who +was busy mat-making in Rangoon gaol. He was +an old acquaintance of mine, having been cook of +a barque called the <i>Gemsbok</i>, which lay at Auckland +during one of my visits—a fair-haired, happy-go-lucky +Englishman; but a very poor sailor, however +able he might have been as a cook. He had +not been half an hour on board before he had +joined us in solemn condemnation of the scanty +stock of provisions he had accompanied on board, +declaring that we should all be starved before we +got home, unless we made a wonderfully rapid passage. +But, with the carelessness of sailors, we<span class="pagenum">[330]</span> +allowed our opportunity of protesting to slip by; +and next morning, we unmoored and dropped +down to Monkey Point, ready to proceed down +the river. For some unexplained reason we lay +here all day doing nothing, although everything +was as favourable as it could well be for our departure. +Towards evening, when all hands were +sitting on the top-gallant forecastle, enjoying the +cool and smoking the universal cheroot of Burmah, +the devil entered into Mick, and induced him +to sneak down into the forecastle and search for +something to drink. He succeeded in discovering +a bottle of square gin—the cayenne and turpentine +brand at twelve annas a bottle—in Hansen's +chest, which, as is customary in all ships' fo'lk'sles, +was left unlocked. Knocking the neck of it off immediately, +he poured the contents into a hookpot, +and, at one draught, swallowed about a pint of the +horrible stuff. Another drink nearly finished it; +and in a few minutes he returned to our midst, not +drunk, but a raving lunatic. For a little while we +were highly amused at his antics; but presently, +yelling, "Well, so long all!" he rushed to the rail +with the evident intention of flinging himself overboard. +Bill—the other ordinary seaman—and I +rushed at him, dragged him back, and, after a severe +struggle, got him to lie down. Then commenced +such a night of labour as I have never experienced +before or since. Every device that his +mad cunning could suggest did he try in order to +take his own life. We got not a moment's rest. +Sometimes he would feign to be asleep; but, the +moment we were off our guard, he would be at it<span class="pagenum">[331]</span> +again, startling us almost out of our wits, and giving +us a fearful struggle before we could get him +quieted again. None of the others would relieve +us, or lend us a hand—nay, they cursed us for a +pair of idiots that we did not let him go, with a +wannion on him. How could we? Although we +bitterly resented the utterly uncalled-for toil, we +dared not relax our vigilance: both of us feeling +that, if we did, his blood would be upon our heads. +And, to add to our miseries, a land-breeze brought +off mosquitoes and sandflies in myriads, so that, in +our exposed condition, we were stung almost beyond +bearing. At last, just as the first streak of +dawn appeared over the jungle, he dropped off to +sleep in reality. Before we had time to snatch the +briefest doze came the strident voice of the mate, +"Man the windlass!" Of course Mick was excused—he +was ill; but we, poor wretches, who had +been engaged in a life-and-death struggle with him +the whole night through, were compelled to work +as if we had enjoyed our lawful night's rest. And +we were so weary! Hardly able to crawl about +from our tremendous exertions, and continually +blackguarded for our lack of smartness, it was with +no kindly feelings towards Mick that we dragged +ourselves forecastlewards at breakfast-time, when, +the ship being under way and pointed down the +river, we had a short spell of leisure. Of course +he sat up and looked for his breakfast, confound +him! As I handed him his coffee, I said, "A pretty +fine dance you led Bill and me last night, Mick!" +"Fhwat the divil d'yez mane?" growled he. I +told him as frankly as I could; and, as soon as I<span class="pagenum">[332]</span> +had done, he said, "Well, I alwuz tought yez wur +a pair ov —— fules, an' now oim —— well sure ov +ut. Fhwy'nt yez let me go, —— yer dhirty sowls +t' hell?" I answered him never a word; but +swore solemnly to myself that, come what might, I +would never again move one inch to protect a +drunken man from the consequences of his own +act, and I have devoutly kept that oath.</p> + +<p>Our progress down the river was but little faster +than the flow of the tide, for there was not +sufficient breeze to keep the sails full, and we all +noticed that the old man seemed to be in an unusual +state of nervous agitation. A tiny pillar of +smoke astern seemed to attract most of his attention; +so palpably, indeed, did he watch it, that we +began to whisper among ourselves that he had been +paying somebody with the "fore-topsail sheet" +again. And the event proved that we were right +in our surmise, for before long a steam-launch +overtook us, and a peremptory order was given +from on board of her for us to lay the foreyard +aback. Our pilot immediately complied, the +launch sheered alongside, and a red-uniformed +official climbed on board. His first act was to +present the skipper with a piece of paper. But +that worthy had no need to read it; he knew +well enough what it contained. Then a white man, +very well dressed, came on board, and began slanging +the miserable captain in rare style. He had +been at his old games again; eating and drinking—especially +drinking—at somebody else's expense +during the whole of our stay in port, and then trying +to get away without paying his bill. This time,<span class="pagenum">[333]</span> +however, matters looked serious for him, for he had +very little money, and his bill amounted to one +hundred and fifty rupees. There was a tremendous +amount of haggling done before the hotel-keeper +would accept a compromise; but at last, a number +of bolts of new canvas and several coils of rope were +transferred to the launch, and with these, I have no +doubt, the creditor was very well paid indeed. +But what excuse the skipper would hatch up to +satisfy his owners about those missing stores we +could none of us imagine. Undoubtedly he placed +himself completely in the power of every one on +board by his mean and dishonest behaviour. As if +we had only been waiting for his discomfiture, no +sooner had the launch left us than we squared away +to a spanking breeze, which took us well clear of +the land before nightfall, fairly started on our long +homeward passage.</p> + +<p>And now we all pursued a definite course of action. +It was unanimously agreed that the skipper +had fairly put himself out of court, and that to him +no respect whatever was due. The officers, on the +other hand, who did their part well under these +trying circumstances, were treated by every one +with that deference which was their right, and consequently +the work of the ship went on in seamanlike +fashion. We were fortunate, too, in getting +out of the Bay of Bengal before the setting in of +the south-west monsoon, when the weather is unspeakably +vile. Steaming weather, variable winds, +and frequent deluges of rain make life at sea in the +Bay then a burden almost too grievous to be +borne. The ropes swell so much that they can<span class="pagenum">[334]</span> +hardly be hauled through the blocks without any +weight attached to them, and the sails become like +boards for stiffness. But we had a steady northerly +wind, nights of perfect beauty, and days of +unclouded sunshine; so that but for the harassing +want of good food, which attacked us as soon as +we were clear of the land, our lot was as pleasant +as any sailor can ever expect. Very little work of +any kind was done beyond the necessary handling +of the sails, for no doubt the officers felt that it +would be unwise to attempt too much under the +strained conditions of things.</p> + +<p>And now in the long night-watches, when over +a quiet sea, flooded with moonlight, the sturdy old +vessel glided silent as a disembodied spirit, not a +flap of a sail or creak of a rope breaking the solemn +stillness, I spent many, many hours alone communing +with my own soul. The old boy-life was fast +slipping away from me, and the ugly sordidness of +much that I had endured for the past seven years +was already beginning to be mellowed by the softening +haze of time. I felt deep, hungry longings +for better things—often flushing hotly in the darkness +as I remembered how I had wasted my opportunities +in Australia, and again thinking wearily +how utterly friendless and alone I was in the world. +I felt that if I only had some one to work for, some +one to whom my well-being was a matter in which +they took a lively interest, that I was capable even +now—in spite of my ignorance—of doing something +in the world; and I built whole cities full of +castles in the air upon the most filmy foundations. +And then all my hopes and dreams would die in<span class="pagenum">[335]</span> +thickest darkness of despair. What gleam of +bright prospect <i>could</i> there be for me, a mere bit of +driftweed upon the awful ocean of humanity, with +no destination, except that which I shared with all +mankind? So I would lay musing, looking upward +into the infinite blue overhead where the +never-ceasing glory of the stars kept me most +comfortable company. These nights were a grand +counterpoise to the petty discomforts and miseries +of the day, when the discontent of their lot +made the men of my watch so humpy and disagreeable +that I could hardly keep out of hot water with +them. I had no books but a Bible, for which I am +now most grateful, because I read that grand old +book—a literature in itself—through and through +from end to end I know not how many times. +And although I know I had not the smallest devotional +intent, I am sure that the very fact of saturating +myself from such a well of English undefiled +was of the very greatest service to me. Religion, +indeed, was a byword among us. We knew that +the owners of the ship were considered a highly religious +firm, and that Captain Bunker was believed +by them to be a holy man. Illogically, we transferred +some of our hatred of his hypocrisy to his +employers, who were probably not in the least to +blame for our sufferings. Therefore, in the many +discussions which took place in the forecastle on +things in general, the conversation usually turned +upon the general worthlessness and scoundrelism +of religious people in general, and our captain and +owners in particular. There were no arguments, +for we were all of one way of thinking, and there<span class="pagenum">[336]</span> +was no one to show us any light upon the subject. +As far as I was concerned my early piety had all +gone, with the exception of an awful fear of death, +in what I felt was my unprepared (!) condition, +and an utter inability to accustom my tongue to +the continual blasphemy of sailor-talk. In other +directions my language was as foul as anybody's, +so that I had nothing to brag about if I had +thought of doing so. As we drew down towards +the African land, the question of food became very +serious again. The flour which had been bought +in Rangoon was already almost uneatable—full of +vermin of various kinds, and of a dirty grey colour. +Our cargo was not available, being unhusked rice, +or "paddy," and the meat was the worst I had ever +seen, with the exception of that in my first ship. +A portion of it boiled, and left for a few hours, +became white and hard as a piece of marble, with +the exuding salt. There was an increasing monotone +of grumbling, which nothing but the lovely +weather and easy times prevented from breaking +into open revolt. At last we made the land somewhere +about East London, and it began to be +whispered about among us that the old man meant +going into Algoa Bay for supplies. What foundation +there was for the rumour I don't know, but it +had a marked effect upon every one's spirits, so +that she was quite a different ship. Port Elizabeth +had been the <i>Harrowby's</i> first port at the beginning +of her long voyage, and probably that had +some weight in making the skipper determine to +call there again. Some of his old cronies would +doubtless welcome him, for he had not then begun<span class="pagenum">[337]</span> +to practise leaving without settling his accounts. +Whatever the cause, the confirmation of the rumour +that we were going to put in re-invigorated +us, and we all showed the utmost willingness at +every task.</p> + +<p>The weather now began to play tricks upon us: +baffling winds, fogs, and cold, raw rain replacing +the idyllic climate we had so long been enjoying. +And, as we gradually crept south, more than one +gale gave us a severe drubbing—sometimes blowing +us so far off the land that we began to fear he +would give up the idea of going in, after all. But +when one morning the order came to get the anchor +over the bows, and bend on the cables, all +doubts and fears were silenced, and a general air +of expectancy took their place. The next night +the wind veered to the eastward, and blew hard; +but under a heavy press of sail we stood in for the +land, heading, as we believed, straight for our port. +All through the night a keen look-out was kept, +but nothing was seen. When the grey, cheerless +dawn broke we were still plunging shoreward +through the ugly cross-sea, making wretched +weather of it, not a dry corner to be found forrard +or aft. A dense mist prevented us from seeing +many ships' lengths ahead, but that gave none of +us forrard any uneasiness, as we believed that with +all his faults the old man was a fairly good navigator. +Two of us were on the look-out, peering +through the grey veil, when suddenly on the starboard +bow, not more than a mile away, appeared +the tall spectre of a lighthouse, the red and white +bands upon it just visible. A chill of horror ran<span class="pagenum">[338]</span> +through us all, added to the next moment by the +appalling cry of "Breakers right ahead!" The +helm was instantly put up and the yards squared, +but oh! how lazily she answered her helm. Then +the haze lifted, and, as she slowly paid off, we saw +all along our starboard beam, and apparently not a +cable's length off, the mighty foaming range of +breakers that seemed hungry for us, flinging their +tops high into the air and bellowing like a thousand +savage bulls. Just as if there was some almost +irresistible attraction drawing us broadside +on to that tumult of death, we crawled along, burying +the lee-rail under water with the tremendous +press of sail we were carrying, and expecting each +moment to hear a crack overhead, and see some of +our spars go, sealing our death-warrant. But our +end was not yet. Presently the most despondent +among us could see that we were gaining ground, +and gradually we clawed off that frightful reef out +to the friendly sea again. A good offing having +been made, we stood to the westward once more, +for the lighthouse we had seen was Cape Recife, +and our objective was but a short distance to the +northward of it. We had just struck the wrong +side of it, that was all. Still, with all our efforts, it +was as much as we could do to get into Algoa Bay +before dark, and anchor well to seaward of all the +other vessels, in readiness to leave again.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[339]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">DEEP-WATER COASTING.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Landing</span> that night was quite out of the question, +for all the surf-boats had been secured, and +even had we possessed a good boat of our own +(which we did not) we could not have landed in +this tumultuous bay as ever was. So the anchor-watch +was set, and everybody else turned in to +sleep the curious, uneasy sleep of the sailor just in +port, after a long series of watches at sea four hours +on and off. But the earliest surf-boat out in the +morning came alongside, and took Captain Bunker +ashore. His last words to the mate were to +"heave short" at noon, for he would then be off +with the stores, and we should weigh immediately. +That was all very well for him, but by ten o'clock a +howling black south-easter was blowing, and we +had a full taste of the delights of Algoa Bay. The +gale blew right into the open harbour, and by noon +the scene was one of the most savage grandeur. +Every vessel there was plunging and straining at +her moorings as if she must tear herself to pieces +or uproot the steadfast anchors, while great sheets +of spray often hid the labouring craft from view. +Our position was dangerous in the extreme. Vessels +anchored in Algoa Bay for any length of time<span class="pagenum">[340]</span> +always have a huge hawser bent to the cables, +which, of course, has more elasticity than chain, +and to this they ride, even in the worst weather, +with comparative comfort. But we had no such +device. In the first place we had no hawser fit for +it, in the next we had made no preparations for +such an emergency. So all that we could do was +just to give her all the chain we had got on a single +anchor, and stand-by to let go the other one in +case of the first one carrying away. For hours we +watched that tortured windlass, and listened to +the horrible grind of the massive links around the +iron-shod barrel thereof, wondering each moment +whether the next would be the last or not. Again +we were spared, although better-prepared vessels +than ours came to grief, piling their poor remains +up among the many other relics scattered about +that ravenous shore. By nightfall the wind had +taken off greatly, although the old sea still kept +her leaping and curtseying like a lunatic, and made +our sleep a mere pretence. And we all felt sure +that our reverend skipper was snugly ensconced in +some red-curtained bar ashore, with a jorum of +grog and a churchwarden aglow; and would be +rather relieved than otherwise to know that his +ship had come to grief, and thus prevented the +catastrophe that was surely awaiting him on his +return home. Along about noon, however, he +hove in sight. When he came alongside the cargo +he had brought with him set all our mouths watering. +There was a side of fresh beef, two carcases +of mutton, and a small cartload of potatoes, cauliflowers, +and onions. But of sea-stock there was<span class="pagenum">[341]</span> +hardly any. Three packages comprised the whole—one +of peas, one of flour, and one of lime juice. +Yet with an obtuseness that is even now a mystery +to me, no one raised any objection. The things +were just hoisted on board, the boat left, and, when +the order was given to man the windlass, there was +not a dissentient murmur. Of course remarks +were bandied about as freely as usual upon the +never-failing subject of the old man's delinquencies; +but that was because he stood upon the +house aft, his knobbly face glowing like a port sidelight, +his hands upon his hips, and his whole bearing +that of a man whom a skinfull of whisky had +put upon the best of terms with himself. Up and +down went the windlass-brakes cheerily, while Bill +and I hauled back the chain; but presently she gave +a dive, and, when she sprang upward again, there +was a sudden grind of the cable, and out flew several +fathoms of it, tearing the chain-hooks from our +hands, and treating us to an extremely narrow escape +of following them. Then there was a chorus +of language from the men on the forecastle. All +sorts of epithets were hurled at our unfortunate +heads for our failure to hold on. But while they +yet spake, she gave another curtsey, and out went +some more. That was sufficient to indicate the +kind of a picnic we were in for, and no time was lost +in rigging a big fourfold or "luff"-tackle, which +was stretched right along the deck from a stout +ringbolt near the mainmast, and the forrard end +hooked on to the chain. The fall was then taken +to the after-capstan, and we two ordinary seamen, +aided by the skipper and the two boys, hove at it<span class="pagenum">[342]</span> +continually as the chain came slowly in. As long +as there was any scope of cable out, things went on +all right, but as soon as we were hove short, it +looked as if some damage was bound to ensue. +Sail was loosed, ready to get way upon her as soon +as the anchor was off the ground, she all the time +straining and jumping at her cable like some infuriated +wild beast. At last she dipped her bows +right to the level of an incoming swell, which, as +it passed under her forefoot, flung her high in air. +There was a rending crash, a shower of sparks, and +she was free. "Anchor's gone, sir!" shouted the +mate, springing off the forecastle amid a chorus of +"—— good job, too," from all hands. As hard +as we could pelt we got the sail on her, and in a few +minutes were outside the Bay, the loose end of the +parted cable hanging at the bows. So closed our +expensive visit to Port Elizabeth, and before +nightfall we were under all canvas, slipping down +towards the Cape with the favouring current and +wind at a great rate, our starboard anchor still +hanging over the bows. All minor discomforts +were forgotten, however, in the glorious feed provided +for us by the cook. While we were revelling +in the good fresh mutton and vegetables, that +worthy came into the forecastle, and received our +congratulations with the self-satisfied air of one +who feels that he has deserved well of his fellows. +Presently he informed us confidentially that he +had received no orders as to the disposal of the +provisions, and that it was therefore his fixed determination +to serve them out to all hands, both +forrard and aft, impartially, as long as they lasted.<span class="pagenum">[343]</span> +He kept his word right manfully. For a week, +during which we hugged the land right round the +Cape with the anchor still outboard, we lived as +we had never done since we left Sydney. Our +gaunt faces filled up their sombre hollows, our +shrunken muscles developed, and we grew skittish +as young colts. Then, without warning, our luxuries +all ceased, and the same grim state of privation +set in as before.</p> + +<p>As I have so often experienced since, we took a +steady southerly wind right off the pitch of the +Cape, before which we hurried homewards under +every rag of sail we could muster—every hour +bringing us nearer home. According to all the +established rules on board ship, we should now +have begun that general "redding-up" to which +every homeward-bounder is subjected as soon as +she gets into the south-east trades. Thanks, however, +to our skipper's peculiar notions of how to +deal with his owners' property, we had no new ratline +stuff on board wherewith to "rattle down"—as +the process of fitting new rungs to the rope-ladders +leading aloft is termed. We could not +reeve new running-gear for the same reason, or fit +new footropes, or repair the "service" where +chafed out aloft. We had hardly any paint, or varnish, +or tar, yet the apprentices declared that when +she left home she was fully provided with such +stores for a three years' voyage—as the owners +were large ship-chandlers and never let their own +ships go to sea meanly supplied. She had been +out barely two years—very little of anything had +been used—so that she was quite poverty-stricken<span class="pagenum">[344]</span> +aloft, and yet there was nothing left to make her +look respectable coming home. We all had easy +times, it is true; but that was not altogether a +blessing, since sailorizing is generally liked by seamen, +who would growl like tigers at the petty half-and-half +scavenging often done on board such +ships as the <i>Harrowby</i> under a pretence of smartening +ship. So restless and irritable did the men become +that it was easy to see trouble at hand. Only +a spark was needed to kindle a big explosion. +This was supplied by the unhappy cook, who burnt +most scandalously the only meal we could really eat +with any heartiness—our pea-soup. Poor wretch!—in +answer to the ferocious inquiries of the men +for something to stay their gnawing stomachs with, +he could only bleat feebly that he "hadn't got +nothing; nothing at all to give 'em." They knew +very well that this was true; but our latest recruit, +Sam, the ex-cook, swore he would have something +to eat or he'd know the reason why. So, snatching +up the steaming kid of soup, he rushed aft with +it, and, in a voice broken with rage and excitement, +demanded the skipper of the grinning boy at the +cabin door. "Tell him I'm engaged—can't see +him now!" shouted the skipper from within. +That was enough. In bounced Sam, pale with +fury, and, shoving the reeking tub of soup under +the skipper's nose as he sat at the table, hissed, +"W'at kinder stuff djer think <i>thet</i> is fer men +t' eat?" Leaning back as far as possible from the +foul mess the skipper panted, "Git out o' my +cabin, yew impident scoundrel! What jer mean +by darin' ter come in 'ere like thet?" Splash!<span class="pagenum">[345]</span> +and over went the kid of soup on top of the skipper's +head, which rose from out of that smoking +yellow flood like a totally new kind of Venus. +The liberal anointing ran down the old man's +beard and back, even unto the confines of his +trouser-legs, while he spluttered, choked, and +scooped at his eyes in utter bewilderment. As for +Sam, he stood like a statue of wrath, in full enjoyment +of his revenge, until the outraged skipper recovered +his voice, and screamed for help. Down +tumbled the mate through the after-companion, +but the sight which greeted his astonished eyes +fairly paralyzed him. "Seize him! put him in +irons!" yelled the skipper, "He's scalded me! th' +infernal vagbon's scalded me!" But Mr. Messenger +was disinclined to undertake the job single-handed—knowing, +too, how likely it was that any +such attempt would almost certainly bring all +hands on the scene ripe for a row. Therefore, +Sam, after unpacking his heart of a few hearty +curses upon skipper and ship, made good his retreat +forward to the fo'lk'sle, where his version of +the encounter was received with delirious merriment. +The delight shown at this summary assault +upon the old man actually took the place of dinner, +and, although no substitute for the spoiled soup +was forthcoming, nothing more was said on the +subject. When the cabin-boy came forrard that +evening with his nightly budget of stories about +the common enemy, he convulsed us all by his +graphic details of the skipper's struggles to free +himself from the clinging mess congealed about +him. But there was not heard one word of pity<span class="pagenum">[346]</span>—no, +not even when Harry told us that his bald head +was as red as a beetroot. This affair kept all hands +in quite a good humour for some days, until one +evening, Chips, who rarely left his lonely den, came +mysteriously into the fo'lk'sle and said oracularly, +"Boys, we ort ter be gittin' pretty cluss ter Sant +Elener. I don't blieve th' ole man means ter sight +it at all; but if he don't we shall all be starved ter +death afore we cross the line. <i>I</i> think we ort ter +go aft in a body 'n tell him 'at we ain't er-goin' ter +do another hand's turn less he goes in 'n gits some +grub ter carry us home." All agreed at once, and +the time for our ultimatum was fixed for the next +day at noon. But I happened to be doing some +trivial job on the main-royal yard next morning, +and, before coming down, took, as I usually did, a +long look all round the horizon. And I saw far aft +on the port quarter the massive outlines of the island +of St. Helena, fully thirty or forty miles away. +This so excited me that I could not wait to descend +in the usual leisurely fashion, but, gripping +the royal backstay, came sliding to the deck like a +monkey. Without losing a minute I rushed forrard +and told my news. There was no longer delay. +Headed by the carpenter, all hands came aft +and demanded an interview with the skipper. As +soon as he appeared the option was given him of +either going in to St. Helena, or sailing the ship +himself. He then informed us what was our exact +position, and dwelt upon the length of time it +would take to beat back against the strong trade +blowing. Old Chips, however, was ready for him. +He said at once, "Very well, sir, why not go into<span class="pagenum">[347]</span> +Ascension?" "Oh, they won't let us have any +stores there: it's a Government dockyard, 'n they +only supply men-o'-war." "That be hanged for +a yarn," said Chips; "w'y, I've had stores there +myself only two year 'n a half ago. Anyhow, +cap'n, there it is: you k'n do wot yer like, but we +ain't a-goin' ter starve 'n work the ship too." +After a minute or two's cogitation, the old man replied +wearily, "Oh, very well, I'll go and draw up +the happlication, an' you'll all 'ave ter sign it." +Artful old curmudgeon! Still, we didn't care as +long as we got some grub; so, when he called us +aft again and read out the string of fabrications he +had concocted, carefully omitting all mention of +our call at Algoa Bay, all hands signed it as cheerfully +as if it had been their account of wages.</p> + +<p>But the look-out that was kept from that day +forth, and the careful calculations of course and +distance every watch, I have never seen equalled in +a ship's fo'lk'sle before or since. And when at last +the rugged burnt-up heap of volcanic <i>débris</i> appeared +above the horizon right ahead, our relief +was immense. Our simple preparations for anchoring +were soon made, and our one serviceable +boat cleared for hoisting out, for, like the majority +of that class of vessels, the boats were stowed and +lumbered up with all sorts of incongruous rubbish, +as if they were never likely to be needed; and the +long-boat—upon which, in case of disaster to the +ship, all our lives would depend—was so leaky and +rotten, that she would not have kept afloat five +minutes in a millpond. As we opened up the tiny +bay, where the Government buildings are clus<span class="pagenum">[348]</span>tered, +we saw, fluttering from the flagstaff at the +summit of a conical hill, most prosaically like a +huge "ballast"-heap, a set of flags silently demanding +our business. Our set of signals being +incomplete, we could only reply by hoisting our +ensign and standing steadily in for the anchorage. +But before we came within a mile of it, a trim cutter +glided alongside, and a smart officer in naval +uniform sprang on board. With just a touch of +asperity in his tone, he inquired our business, and, +upon being deferentially informed by the skipper, +immediately ordered the main-yard to be laid +aback while he went below to inspect the contents +of our store-room. Apparently his scrutiny was +satisfactory, for, returning on deck, he ordered the +main-yard to be filled again, and conned the ship +up to the anchorage. He then re-entered his boat +and sped away shoreward, while we, as soon as ever +the ship had swung to her anchor, just clewed up +the sails, and then made all haste to get the boat +into the water. As soon as this was done, four +hands and the skipper got into her and pulled for +the shore; the old man's last words being, "I +'spect I shall be back in an hour."</p> + +<p>To while away the time, pending their return, I +started fishing; but I never want to get among +such fish as they were again. Lovely in their hues +beyond belief, but with nothing else to recommend +them, they tried my patience sorely. I have since +learned that they were a sub-variety of <i>Chætodon</i>, +having teeth almost like a human being, but so +keen and powerful that they were able to sever +copper-wire. After losing most of my hooks, I at<span class="pagenum">[349]</span> +last "snooded" with a few strands of silk not +twisted together. By this means I succeeded in +getting half a dozen of the gorgeous creatures on +deck. But their amazing colours, fearful spikiness, +and leathery skin effectually frightened us from eating +them, as most of us were painfully aware of the +penalty for eating strange fish. The swelled and +burning head, lancinating pains, and general debility +afterwards, consequent upon fish-poisoning, +make sailors very careful to taste none but known +kinds of deep-sea fish, and any queer shape or colour +among reef-fish is sufficient to bar their use as food.</p> + +<p>At the expiration of two hours and a half our +boat returned, laden to the gunwale with bags +and cases, showing plainly that here, at any rate, +the old man had not been permitted to exercise his +own judgment as to what his requirements were +likely to be. In feverish haste we got the stores +on board, the skipper appearing in a high state of +nervous apprehension lest the keen-eyed watchers +ashore should deem him slack in leaving. Indeed, +the report of the boat's crew was to the effect that +the skipper had been treated with very scant courtesy—not +even being allowed to say how much of +this, that, or the other, he would take; and, when +he was leaving, being sternly admonished to lose +no time in getting under way, or he would certainly +find himself in trouble. Such was the haste +displayed all through, that, within four hours from +the time of the officer's boarding us, we were off +again, our head once more pointing homeward.</p> + +<p>From that time onward, until our arrival in +Falmouth, we never had cause to complain of bad<span class="pagenum">[350]</span> +food. Everything supplied us from the Naval +Stores was the best of its kind—as, of course, it +should be. It filled us all with respect for the way +in which men-o'-war's men are fed, even without +the many opportunities allowed them for exchanging +the service rations for shore provisions. In +consequence of this welcome change everything +on board went on greased wheels. The old man +effaced himself, as usual, never interfering with +anybody, and, for a month, we were as quiet a ship +as you would find afloat. Slowly we edged our +way across the belt of calms to the northward of +the Line, inch by inch, our efforts almost entirely +confined to working the ship and making sennit. +By-and-bye we came into a calm streak, where sea +and sky were so much alike that it was hard to tell +where one left off and the other began: weather +beautiful beyond description, but intensely aggravating +to men tired of the ship and the voyage, +and exceedingly trying to the temper of all hands. +For a week this stagnant state of things prevailed; +and then, one morning, we were all interested to +find another barque within a couple of miles of us. +In that mysterious way in which two vessels will +draw near each other in a stark calm, we got closer +and closer, until at last our skipper took a notion +to visit her. So the boat was got out, and +we pulled alongside of her. She was the <i>Stanley +Sleath</i> of London, from 'Frisco to London, one +hundred and sixty days out. She was an iron vessel, +and never shall I forget the sight she presented +as she rolled her lower strakes out of water. Great +limpets, some three inches across, yard-long bar<span class="pagenum">[351]</span>nacles, +and dank festoons of weeds, clothed her below +the water-line from stem to stern, and how she +ever made any progress at all was a mystery. She +smelt just like a reef at low water; and it looked as +if the fish took her for something of that nature, +for she was accompanied by a perfect host of them, +of all shapes and sizes, so that she rolled as if in +some huge aquarium. She certainly presented a +splendid field for the study of marine natural history. +None of us went on board but the skipper; +but some of the watch below leaned over the rail +as we swung alongside and told us a pitiful story. +Through somebody's negligence the lid of their +only water-tank had been left off, with the result +that some rats had got in and been drowned. +This had tainted all the water so vilely that no one +save a sailor burning with thirst could drink it, +and nothing would disguise that rotting flavour. +The captain had his young wife on board, and she +had been made so ill that she was delirious, her one +cry being for "a drink of water." And no one +seemed to have had sufficient gumption to rig up +a small condenser! It hardly seemed credible, +had it not been that similar cases were well known +to most of us. We had plenty of good water, and +our skipper sent us back on board with orders to +the mate to fill a two-hundred-gallon cask, bung it +up tight, and lower it overboard. We were then +to tow it back to the <i>Stanley Sleath</i>. As a cask or +tank of fresh water floats easily in the sea, this was +not a difficult task, nor were we long in executing +it. It was the best deal made by our old man for +many a long day, for he got in exchange a fat sow,<span class="pagenum">[352]</span> +weighing about fifteen stone, two gallons of rum, +and a case of sugar. Followed by the fervent +thanks of her anxious commander, we rowed away +from the <i>Stanley Sleath</i>, our approach to our own +vessel again being heralded by the frantic squeals +of our prize, who lay under the thwarts, her feet +securely bound but her voice in splendid working +order. That evening a breeze sprang up, and, +slow as we were, we soon left our late consort hull +down. Thenceforward for nearly a fortnight we +saw nothing of our teetotal skipper. The rum +had been given us in lime-juice bottles, packed in +the original case, so that nobody knew but what a +case of lime-juice had come on board. And yet, +as we had an abundance of lime-juice, we wondered +why the skipper had not chosen something +else in payment for the water. The cabin-boy, as +usual, got the first inkling of the mystery. Somehow +he was a prime favourite with the old man, +who, I suppose, turned to Harry in his loneliness +and made something of a pet of him, getting, in return, +all his little weaknesses reported verbatim to +the fellows forrard every evening. Going to call +the captain to supper on the same evening we visited +the other ship, the boy noticed an overpowering +smell of rum, and, upon tapping at the state-room +door, he heard a thick voice murmur, "'Mnor +vry well shevenin'; shlay down bit." That was +enough for Harry. Peeping in, he saw the skipper +lolling on his chest, a big black bottle wedged +securely down by his side, and a glass in his hand. +From that spell of drink he did not emerge until +the last of the bottles was emptied.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[353]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">WHICH BRINGS US TO PORT AT LAST.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fortunately</span> for us the condition of the skipper +didn't count for anything, as we made our +usual progress homeward indifferent to his pranks. +The north-east trades hung far to the eastward, +allowing us to make an excellent course northward; +but, as we were very light, our gain from their favouring +cant was slight. Just upon the northern +verge of the tropic we lost them altogether, and +lay lolling about in windless, stagnating ease for +another week, exasperating all hands at this unlooked-for +extension of our already lengthy passage. +But even this enforced wait had its advantages. +We spoke another barque—homeward +bound from Brisbane—and again our adventurous +commander would go ship-visiting. In fact, he +allowed it to become known that, but for our determined +attitude about calling at Ascension, he +had intended to <i>beg</i> his way home—a peculiarly +irritating practice much fancied by men of his +stamp, who thus levy a sort of blackmail upon +well-found ships. They pitch a pitiful yarn about +bad weather and abnormal length of passage, with +such embroidery as their imagination suggests,<span class="pagenum">[354]</span> +and generally succeed in getting quite a lot of +things "on the cheap."</p> + +<p>What sort of a yarn our mendacious skipper +spun to this last vessel we had no means of knowing, +as the boat's crew were not allowed to board +her; but he succeeded in getting a couple of cases +of preserved beef and some small stores. Much to +his disgust, however, there was no liquor of any +kind to be had. The only thing that the other +ship wanted was a few coals for the galley fire; so, +while our skipper stayed on board, the boat was +sent back for them. Now it was Sunday afternoon, +and when Bill and I were ordered to go +down into the fore-peak and fill three sacks with +coal, we felt much aggrieved. So, grumblingly, +we dived into the black pit forrard, and began to +fill the sacks. But, suddenly, a bright idea struck +us. The only pretence at ship-smartening we +were likely to make was "holystoning" the decks, +and, to this end, several lumps of sandstone had +been saved ever since we left Sydney. Now, I +have before noted in what abhorrence holystoning +is held by all who have to perform it, and here was +a heaven-sent opportunity to make the job impossible. +So we carefully interspersed the lumps of +stone among the coal in the sacks, taking every +precaution to leave not a fragment behind. Away +it went to the other ship; it was hoisted on board, +our boat returned, a breeze sprang up and we +parted company, seeing each other no more. Two +or three days after the order was given to get up +the holystones for cleaning ship. Words could +not express the wrath of the mate when it was re<span class="pagenum">[355]</span>ported +to him that none were to be found. Every +bit of coal in the fore-peak was dug over under his +immediate supervision, he getting in a most parlous +mess the while, but in vain. I never saw a +man get so angry over a trifle. He swore that +they had been thrown overboard by somebody, being +certain that there had been an ample store. +Singularly enough, he never dreamed of the real +way of their going, and the actual perpetrators of +the certainly immoral act were never even suspected. +We had to do the best we could with +ashes and brooms, but they made a poor substitute +for the ponderous scouring of the stones. I regret +to say that neither of us felt the slightest remorse +for our deed, and, when we heard the delighted +comments of the men were more puffed up, I am +afraid, than we should have been by the consciousness +of having acted ever so virtuously.</p> + +<p>And now, as we were approaching the area of +heavy weather, and our stun'sails were worn almost +to muslin, we began to send down the stun'sail +gear. The first thing that happened: the ex-cook, +in sending down one of the top-gallant stun'sail-booms +(a spar like a smooth scaffold-pole), +made his "rolling-hitch" the wrong way. Perfectly +satisfied that all was in order he sung out to us +on deck to "hoist away." The moment we did so, +and the boom swung out of the irons in which it +had been lying, it assumed a vertical position and +slid through the hitch like lightning, just missing +the rail, and plunging end-on into the sea alongside. +We were going about four knots at the +time, and when it sprang upwards again it struck<span class="pagenum">[356]</span> +us under the counter with a bang that almost +stove in the outer skin of the ship. And, instead +of being at all chagrined at such a gross piece of +bungling, the offender simply exhausted his copious +vocabulary of abuse when the "old man" ventured +to rebuke him. Oh, our discipline was +grand! Hardly an hour afterwards, in taking in +the fore-topmast stun'sail, the halliards carried +away. The tack and sheet, rotten as cobwebs almost, +followed suit, so we lost that too. The rest +of the rags were saved for the old-rope merchant.</p> + +<p>Still the fine weather persisted, and at last we +crawled up under the lee of Terceira in the Azores, +where we got becalmed within a couple of miles +of Angra. That was on a Sunday afternoon—and +if Captain Bunker didn't actually propose to go +ashore and have a donkey-ride! He was perfectly +sober, too. But this was too much for even our +quiet mate's patience. He turned upon his commander +at last. I was at the wheel, and heard him +tell the skipper that if he carried out his proposal, +and a breeze sprang up while he was ashore, he, the +mate, would certainly make sail and leave him +there. He was sick to death of the state of things, +and he would have no more of it. This outburst +frightened the old fellow terribly, and, with a +feeble remark that he was "only joking," he disappeared +below. The calm continued all through +the night, some invisible influence setting the vessel +so closely inshore that I began to fear we were +going to lose her after all. Yet nothing whatever +was done to prepare for such a contingency. The +anchor was securely lashed in its sea-position on<span class="pagenum">[357]</span> +the forecastle, and, to all outward appearance, no +notice was taken at all by the officers of our undoubtedly +perilous proximity to the shore. Just +before dawn, however, a little south-easterly breeze +sprang up, to which we trimmed the yards, and +soon glided away from all danger. Gradually the +wind freshened and veered until at west-southwest +it was blowing a strong steady breeze, and, +with all square-sail set, the old <i>Harrowby</i> was bowling +along at a good eight knots for the Channel. +Faithful as usual, this well-beloved wind to the +homeward-bounder never relaxed its strenuous +push until the changing hue of the water, plain +for all men to see, told us that we were once more +on soundings. Oh, blessed sight, that never palls +upon the deep-water sailor, the fading away of +that deep fathomless blue which for so many, many +weary watches has greeted the eye! Somehow or +other, too, the green of the Channel of Old England +has a different tint to any other sea-green. It is +not a pretty colour, will not for a moment bear +comparison with the blazing emerald of some tropical +shore, but it looks welcome—it says home; and +even the most homeless and hardened of shellbacks +feels a deep complacency when it greets his +usually unobservant eye. Contrary to my usual +experience of the brave westerlies, this breeze of +ours did not culminate in a gale; but as we neared +the Scilly Isles it gradually took off, and the +weather brightened, until one heavenly morning +at daybreak we saw under a pale-blue sky, bathed +in brilliant sunshine, those straggling outposts of +dear old England like bits of fairyland—uncut<span class="pagenum">[358]</span> +jewels scattered over a silver sea. And here, to +our intense delight, came a dandy: one of those +staunch Falmouth boats with the funny little jigger +perked up aft like the tail of a saucy cockerell. She +made straight for us in a business-like fashion, +rounded to alongside, and her commander climbed +nimbly on board, while the other two men in her +hove on board a splendid mess of fish. The enterprising +boatman was the runner for a Falmouth +tailor, who had come out thus far seeking customers. +He was, of course, elated to find that we +were bound into Falmouth, and that his diligence +was likely to be rewarded. For few indeed are the +homeward-bounders calling at Falmouth for orders, +whose crews do not liberally patronize the +Falmouth outfitters, getting good value for their +money, and being able to choose their goods with +clear heads, apart from the bestial distractions of +sailor-town. And the captains of such vessels are +never loth, <i>of course</i>, to allow their men to run +up a bill with the tailor, and to forward the amount +from the port of discharge, wherever it may be.</p> + +<p>Favoured still by fortune we sped on toward +the lovely harbour, and at four p.m. rounded the +well-known old tower of Pendennis and entered +the anchorage. Sail-furling and clearing up decks +was got over as if by magic, and, by the time we +were at leisure here was the prompt tailor-man +with his leather-covered trunks full of boots and +clothes, ready to reap the first-fruits of our labours.</p> + +<p>Here we lay in serenest peace for a couple of +days, the weather being more like late spring than +November, so fine and balmy as to make us won<span class="pagenum">[359]</span>der +whether we had not mistaken the time of year. +Then orders came for us to proceed to London. +We towed out of the harbour on a lovely afternoon, +with the Channel looking like a glimpse of +fairyland under the delicate blue of the cloudless +sky. Under all sail we gently jogged along the +coast, standing more to seaward as night came on, +and noting, with comfortable compassion, the outward-bounders +just beginning the long journey of +which we were so near the end. I had the ten to +midnight wheel, and, in consequence of the mild +weather, was lightly clad in the usual tropical rig +of shirt, trousers, and cap. Before half my +"trick" was over there was a sudden change. +The wind came out from the north-east, and piped +up with a spiteful sting in it that pierced me +through. My thin blood seemed to suck up the +cold until I was benumbed and almost unable to +move the wheel. But there was no chance to +wrap up. All hands were as busy as bees shortening +her down, for the wind rose faster than they +could get the sail in, and at midnight it was +blowing a gale, with squalls of sleet and driving +banks of fog. One o'clock came before I was relieved, +and then I had hardly enough vitality left +to get forrard, my two garments being stiff upon +my lead-coloured flesh. Somehow I got into the +forecastle and changed my rig; then, rolling my +one blanket round me, I crawled into my bunk. +No sleep and no warmth could I get, nor did I feel +more than half alive at eight bells. But I dragged +myself on deck and suffered, till at five a.m. the +cook shouted "Coffee!" as usual, and then the<span class="pagenum">[360]</span> +pannikin of boiling brown water did comfort my +frozen vitals.</p> + +<p>We were now just fore-reaching under two +lower topsails, reefed foresail, and fore-topmast +staysail—not even holding our own. Every little +while the big flyers outward-bound would spring +out of the fog-laden gloom, and glide past us under +a pyramid of canvas like vast spirits of the storm. +Or a panting, labouring tramp-steamer would +plough her painful way up channel right in the +wind's eye, digging her blunt snout into the angry +brine, and lifting it aboard in a roaring flood that +hid her for a minute entirely under a mantle of +white foam. We had even some pity to spare for +the poor devils in such evil case as that on those +perishing iron decks, or being flung like a tennis-ball +between bunker, bulkhead, and furnace-door +in the Gehenna below, while the freezing floods +came streaming down upon them through the +grated "fidley" above. Fifteen days did that +merciless north-easter thrash and wither us, until +we felt that nothing mattered—we had reached +such a dumb depth of misery. Still, we did make +<i>some</i> progress, for on the sixteenth day we sighted +Dungeness, the first clearly distinguishable land +we had seen since leaving Falmouth. The arrival +of the pilot cheered us up, as it always does. He +seems to bring with him the assurance of safety, to +be a hand stretched out from home able and anxious +to draw you thither. And, as so often happens, +too, the weather fined down almost immediately. +Under his wise guidance we stole stealthily +along the coast until, off Dover, a big tug-boat +<span class="pagenum">[361]</span> +sallied out and made for us. None of us took any +notice of him; we knew too well that we were not +the sort of game he was after. A ship about five +times our size was nearer his weight. Still, he +came alongside and hailed us with, "'R ye takin' +steam up, cap'n?" ironically, as we all felt. +"Ah!" replied the old man, "yew're too big a +swell f'r me." "Nev' mind 'bout that," promptly +came back. "I'm a-goin' up, anyhow, 'n <i>you</i> +won't make any diff'rance ter me. Come, wot'll +yer gimme?" "Ten poun'," sniggered the old +man. "Oh! Go on ahead!"—the interjection +explosive, and the order snarled down the speaking-tube +to his engineer. Before, however, the +paddles had made one revolution he stopped them, +and shouted back, "Looky 'ere, I ain't foolin'; I'll +take ye up fur thutty poun'. Thet won't 'urt yer." +"Can't do it," drawled the skipper. "Owners +wouldn't pay it. 'Owever, ef yew mean bizness, +I'm 'lowed to go ter twenty, n' not 'nother pice." +Then the fun began. They argued and chaffed +and swore until, finally, the tug got so close that +her skipper stepped off the paddle-box on board +of us, and, as he did so, we saw a bottle sticking +out of his pea-jacket pocket. They both went below, +and there was silence. When they reappeared +our old man's face was glowing like burnished +copper, and Oliver muttered, "I'm off'rin' +big money thet bottle's empty, and the steam-boat +man ain't a-hed much neither." But they hadn't +settled the bargain. No; the next game was to +toss one another—best two out of three—whether +the tug should take us up for twenty pounds or<span class="pagenum">[362]</span> +twenty-five. Steam won; and the old man immediately +signed to the mate to get the hawser up. +Great Cæsar! how we did snake the hatches off +before the order came, forgetting that we hadn't +got a hawser fit for the job. That made no odds; +the tug-boat man wasn't going to let a little thing +like that stand in his way, especially as his coal +supply was so low that every minute was precious. +So he lent us his tow-line, and in less than five +minutes the <i>Robert Bruce</i> was pelting away homeward +as if nothing was behind her at all, and we +were all admiring the first bit of speed the old +<i>Harrowby</i> had put on since we had belonged to +her. Night fell as we passed the Nore, but there +was no delay. Onward we went, until, passing +everything on the way, we anchored at Gravesend. +Off went the tug with the last shovelful of coal in +the furnaces, just in time. Then down came the +fog, a regular November shroud, so thick that the +mainmast was invisible from the poop. Somehow +the "mud"-pilot found us, his boat taking away +our deep-water man, in whom—such is the fickleness +of mankind—we had now lost all interest. +All the next day that thick darkness persisted; +but about seven in the evening it lifted a little. +The tug was alongside of us directly, so anxious +was her skipper to get his cheap job over. We +were mighty smart getting under way, being off +up the river in less than half an hour from the first +glimmer of clear. All went well till we entered +Long Reach, when down came the curtain again +thicker than ever. The tug turned round and +headed down the river, just keeping the paddles<span class="pagenum">[363]</span> +moving as we dropped up with the young flood. +It was a terribly anxious time. The river was full +of craft, and every minute or two there was a tempest +of howls as we bumped into some bewildered +barge, or came close aboard of a huge ocean +steamer. At last the pilot could stand it no +longer, and, telling the carpenter to get his maul +ready for knocking out the ring-stopper of the +anchor, he shouted, "Stand clear the chain!" At +that instant, as if by some pre-arranged signal, the +fog rolled up, and in five minutes the sky was as +clear as heart could wish. The tug swung round +again, and, under a full head of steam, we rushed +onwards, entering the Millwall Docks just at the +stroke of midnight. The process of mooring in +our berth was all a confused jumble of rattling +chains, hoarse orders, and breathless, unreasoning +activity, succeeded by that sweetest of all sounds to +a homeward-bound sailor's ears, "That'll do, men."</p> + +<p>Unearthly as the hour was, most of the fellows +would go ashore, delivering themselves over to the +ever-watchful boarding-house runners like a flock +of sheep. But three of us—Oliver, Bill, and myself—rolled +once more into our bunks, and, utterly +wearied, soon fell fast asleep. When we awoke in +the morning the new sensation of being our own +masters, able to disregard the time, and lay in till +noon if we chose, was delightful. But just because +we could do as we liked we rose at daylight, had a +leisurely wash, and, dressed in our best, climbed +over the rail and sauntered along the gloomy, +grimy quays towards the dock-gates. We had +just two shillings and sixpence between us, suffi<span class="pagenum">[364]</span>cient +to get a good meal only, but we knew where +we could get more. And that is one of the first +pitfalls that beset the path of the homeward-bounder. +Many skippers have sufficient thoughtfulness +to advance their crews a little money upon +arriving in dock, and thereby save them from the +dangerous necessity of borrowing from those harpies +who abound and batten upon the sailor. +Nothing of the kind could be expected from our +skipper, of course, so we just had to take our +chance. As I was at home and familiar with every +corner, I became the guide, and led the way to a +snug eating-house in the West India Dock Road, +where I knew we could get a civilized breakfast. +But Oliver hove-to at the first pub, and swore that +what <i>he</i> needed was rum. I tried hard to dissuade +him, assuring him that he wouldn't be able to eat +any breakfast if he got drinking rum first. I might +as well have tried to tie an elephant with a rope-yarn. +He had his rum: a full quartern of the famous +brand that used to be sold about sailor-town, +whereof the bouquet was enough to make a horse +sick. Then I hurried him off to the coffee-shop, +where, with a lordly air, I ordered three haddocks, +three hot rolls and butter, and three pints of coffee. +Oh, the ecstatic delight of that meal!—that is, to +us two youngsters. Oliver just pecked a little +daintily, and then, turning to a burly carman sitting +by his side who had just finished a mighty +meal, he said coaxingly, "I say, shipmate, I ain't +touched this grub hardly, can you help me out?" +With a commiserating look the carman reached for +the food, and concealed it like an expert conjurer.</p> + +<hr class="chapter" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[365]</span></p> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2> + +<p class="topnote">CONCLUSION.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> I had no home, and cared little where I +lodged, I was easily persuaded by Oliver to accompany +him to the little beershop in the Highway, +where he had put up before. I had my misgivings, +for I knew that unsavoury neighbourhood +well (it is somewhat different now); but it was +necessary to find harbourage somewhere until +the ship paid off, which was, as usual, likely +to be three days longer. Bill departed unto his +own place among the purlieus of Bermondsey, and +we two trudged off to Oliver's hotel. After the +glowing accounts of it I had received from Oliver, +I was dumfounded to find it a regular den; the +bar filled with loafers furtive of look and mangy of +clothing, while the big taproom at the back was +just a barn of a place open to all. The fat landlord +seemed a decent fellow, but his fatter wife was a +terror. She had vigour enough to command a +regiment, and woe to the loafer who crossed her. +Still I felt that it was now too late to draw back, +and besides, I had little to lose; so I had my +scanty kit brought up from the ship, and saw it +shoved into a corner of the common room, where +I reckoned it would be ransacked thoroughly as<span class="pagenum">[366]</span> +soon as darkness set in. The landlord lent me a +sovereign readily enough, and, as soon as I received +it, I bade good-day to Oliver, who was fast +drinking himself idiotic, and, taking the train from +Shadwell to Fenchurch Street, was whirled out of +that detestable locality. All the rest of the day I +roamed about the well-known streets, where the +very buildings seemed to greet me with the air of +old friends. I thoroughly enjoyed myself, and, with +only a couple of shillings gone out of my sovereign, +returned to my lodging shortly after ten. I found +things worse than ever. The landlady was half +inclined to abuse me because I hadn't been in to +my meals, and every loafer in the place was sponging +for a drink. Outside I knew was not healthy +at this time of night for me, so I quietly asked permission +to go to bed. Grumbling at such an unreasonable +request, the landlady snarled, "You'll +'ave ter wite till yer bed's ready. 'Ow wos hi ter +know as you'd wanter sleep all day?" I said nothing, +seeing it was the wisest course; but perching +myself in a corner under the big flaring kerosene-lamp, +tried to read a book I had brought in with +me. I had not been thus quietly engaged for +more than five minutes, before an awfully repulsive-looking +fellow came up to me, and, pushing +down my book, said, "Got enny munny in yer +close, young 'un?" I looked at him in silence +for a minute, thinking hard how best to answer +him. But growing impatient he growled, "Look +'ere, giv us the price of a drink, er I'll bash yer jor +in." That settled it. Indignation overcame prudence, +and I shouted at the pitch of my voice,<span class="pagenum">[367]</span> +"Mr. Bailey, do you allow this to go on in your +house?" There was an uproar immediately, in +the midst of which Mrs. Bailey cleared the room +of the swarming loafers—my assailant escaping +among them. Then, turning indignantly to me, +she abused me roundly for making a disturbance, +treating my statement as a "pack er lies." I got +to bed safely, though, and really the bed was better +than I had expected, although the room was +just a bare box of a place with damp-begrimed +walls, that might have been a coal-cellar.</p> + +<p>Rising early in the morning I went down and +had an interview with Bailey, in which I asked him +to have my dunnage put away, as I was going on a +visit and should not return that night. He was +pleasant enough about it, and offered me a rum-and-milk +at his expense, being greatly amazed at +my refusal. Then I escaped and took up my +abode at a lodging-house in Newman Street, Oxford +Street. The time dragged rather heavily +until pay-day, as I dared not do anything costing +money; but at last I found myself once more at +Green's Home, with my account of wages in my +hand, telling me that after all claims were satisfied, +I was entitled to sixteen pounds. It was a curious +paying-off. Every man, as he got his money, +gave the skipper a piece of his mind; and but that +a stout grating protected the old man from his +crew, I am afraid there would have been assault +and battery. I came last, with the exception of +Bill, and when I held out my account of wages +to the clerk, the old rascal said, "I've a good mind +to stop yer wages as I promised yer." What I<span class="pagenum">[368]</span> +said doesn't matter, but I never felt the poverty of +language more. And when I saw that he had +given me on my certificate of discharge an excellent +character for conduct (which I didn't deserve) +and a bad character for ability (which was utterly +unjust), I felt that his malignity would pursue me +long after I had seen the last of him. For such a +discharge is a millstone round a young man's neck. +Captains don't take much notice of a character for +conduct—whether it be good or bad—but they do +want their men to be of some use at their work, +and will return such a discharge as mine was contemptuously. +Bill took his pay without looking +at it, and, without a word passing between him and +the old man, joined me outside. We strolled away +together along the East India Dock Road, he +bungling over his money all the time, till suddenly +he cried, "Why, I've got a five-pound note too +much! Here, come on, let's get out o' this, case +he sends after us." And thus was I avenged. +The morality of the thing never troubled me in the +least, I only felt glad from my heart that mine +enemy would have to refund all that money.</p> + +<p>And now I have reached the limit of my book. +At the outset I only proposed to deal with the vicissitudes +of my life on board ship as a boy. And +with the close of this voyage I felt that I was a boy +no longer. I was getting more confident in my +ability to hold my own in the struggle for life, and, +although I saw nothing before me but a dreary +round of the drudgery of the merchant seaman's +career before the mast, the prospect did not +trouble me. I had no plans, no ambitions, nobody<span class="pagenum">[369]</span> +to work for, no one to encourage me to thrive for +better things. I lived only for the day's need, my +only trouble the possible difficulty of getting a ship. +Of the future, and what it had in store for me, I +thought nothing, cared nothing. And yet I was +not unhappy. If at times there was a dull sense +of want—want of something besides food and +clothing—I did not nurse it until it became a pain. +Only I kept away from sailor-town. The museums, +picture galleries, and theatres kept me fully +amused, and, when I was tired, a good book was +an unfailing resource against dulness. In fact I +lived in a little world of my own, quite content +with my own company and that of the creations of +my fancy or the characters of the books I devoured.</p> + +<p>This unsatisfactory life, thank God! was soon +to be entirely changed; but that, of course, was +hidden from me, nor does it come within the scope +of this book. As I write these last few words I +think curiously whether, if ever they see the light, +those who read them will think contemptuously, +"This fellow seems to imagine that the commonplace +details in the life of a nobody are worth recording." +Well, I have had my doubts about that +all along, and my only excuse must be that I have +been assured, upon very high authority, that a +book like mine, telling just the naked, unadorned +truth about an ordinary boy's ordinary life at sea, +could not fail to be of interest as a human document. +And, in spite of the manifest shortcomings, +the obvious inability to discriminate wisely always +between things that are worth the telling and<span class="pagenum">[370]</span> +things that are not, I do confidently assert that I +have here set forth the truth impartially, as far as +I have been able to do so. I feel strongly tempted +to draw a few conclusions from my experience; +but I must resist the temptation, and allow the +readers to do that for themselves. In the hope +that some good may be done, some little pleasure +given, by this simple recital of a boy's experiences +at sea, I now bid my readers, respectfully,</p> + +<p class="h3">SO LONG!</p> + +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Log of a Sea-Waif, by Frank T. 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