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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rambles by Land and Water, by B. M. Norman
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Rambles by Land and Water
+ or Notes of Travel in Cuba and Mexico
+
+Author: B. M. Norman
+
+Release Date: July 28, 2011 [EBook #36878]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES BY LAND AND WATER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller, Josephine Paolucci and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLES
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BY
+
+LAND & WATER.
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLES
+
+BY
+
+LAND AND WATER,
+
+OR
+
+NOTES OF TRAVEL
+
+IN
+
+CUBA AND MEXICO;
+
+INCLUDING A CANOE VOYAGE UP THE RIVER PANUCO, AND RESEARCHES AMONG THE
+RUINS OF TAMAULIPAS, &c.
+
+ "He turns his craft to small advantage, Who knows not what
+ to light it brings."
+
+By B. M. NORMAN,
+
+AUTHOR OF RAMBLES IN YUCATAN, ETC
+
+
+NEW-YORK:
+
+PUBLISHED BY PAINE & BURGESS.
+
+NEW ORLEANS:
+
+B. M. NORMAN.
+
+1845.
+
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by
+PAINE & BURGESS,
+in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States, for
+the Southern District of New York.
+
+
+Stereotyped by Vincent L. Dill,
+128 Fulton st. Sun Building, N. Y.
+
+C. A. Alvord, Printer; Cor. of John and Dutch sts.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The present work claims no higher rank than that of a humble offering to
+the Ethnological studies of our country. Some portions of the field which
+it surveys, have been traversed often by others, and the objects of
+interest which they present, have been observed and treated of, it may be,
+with as much fidelity to truth, and in a more attractive form. Of that the
+reading public will judge for itself. But there are other matters in this
+work, which are now, for the first time, brought to light. And it is the
+interest, deep and growing, which hangs about every thing relating to those
+mysterious relics of a mysterious race, which alone emboldens the author to
+venture _once more_ upon the troubled sea of literary enterprise. Had
+circumstances permitted, he would have extended his researches among the
+sepulchres of the past, with the hope of securing a more ample, and a more
+worthy contribution to the museum of American Antiquities. He has done
+what he could, under the circumstances in which he was placed. From what he
+has been enabled to accomplish, alone and unaided, he hopes that others,
+more capable, and better furnished with "the sinews" of travel, will be
+induced to make a thorough exploration of these regions of ruined cities
+and empires, and bring to light their almost boundless treasures of curious
+and interesting lore. The field is immense. It is, as yet, scarcely entered
+upon. No one of its boundaries is accurately ascertained. The researches
+made, and the materials gathered, are yet insufficient to enable us to
+solve satisfactorily the great problem of the origin of the races, that
+once filled this vast region with the arts and luxuries of civilization,
+and reared those mighty and magnificent structures, and fashioned those
+wonderful specimens of sculptured art, which now remain, in ruins, to
+perpetuate the memory of their greatness, though not of their names.
+
+The exploration and illustration of these marvels of antiquity, belong
+appropriately to American literature. They should be accomplished by
+American enterprise. If not soon attempted, the honor, the pleasure, and
+the profit, will assuredly fall into other hands. Enough has already been
+done, to awaken a general interest and curiosity among the wonder-seeking
+and world-exploring adventurers of Europe; and, if we do not speedily
+follow up our small beginnings, with an efficient and thorough survey, the
+Belzonis, and the Champollions of the Old World, will have anticipated our
+purpose, and borne away forever the palm and the prize.
+
+But who shall undertake the arduous achievement? Who shall be responsible
+for its faithful execution? If the difficulties are too great for
+individual enterprise, could it not be accomplished by a concert of action
+between the numerous respectable Historical and Antiquarian Societies of
+our country? What more interesting field for their united labors? Which of
+them will take the hint, and set the ball in motion?
+
+It is only required, that when it is done, it should be well done--not a
+mere experiment in book-making, a catch-penny picture book, without plan,
+or argument, or conclusion, leaving all the questions it proposed to
+discuss and solve, more deeply involved in the mist than before--but a
+substantial standard work, complete, thorough and conclusive, such as all
+our libraries would be proud to possess, and posterity would be satisfied
+to rely upon. There are men among us of the right kind, with the taste, the
+courage, the zeal, and the skill both literary and artistic, to do the work
+as it should be done. But they have not the means to go on their own
+account. They must be sent duly commissioned and provided, prepared and
+resolved to abide in the field, till they have traversed it in all its
+length and breadth and investigated and decyphered so far as it can now be
+done, every trace that remains of its ancient occupants and rulers--and the
+country, and the world, will reap the advantage of their labors.
+
+The author does not presume to flatter himself, that he has done any thing,
+in his present or any other humble offering, towards the accomplishment of
+such a work as the above suggestion proposes. He is fully conscious of his
+incompetence to such an undertaking. His main desire, and his highest aim,
+has been to present the matter in such a light, as to awaken the attention,
+and stimulate the interest of those who have the means, the influence, and
+the capacity to do it ample justice. And yet, he would not be true to
+himself, if he did not declare, that, in the effort to secure this end, he
+has used his utmost endeavor to afford, to the reader of his notes, a just
+equivalent for that favorable regard, which is found in that wholesome
+impulse which ought invariably and naturally to precede the perusal of any
+book.
+
+_New Orleans, October, 1845._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+ PAGE
+VOYAGE FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA.--DESCRIPTION
+OF THE CAPITAL OF CUBA, 21
+
+Introductory remarks, 21
+Departure from New Orleans, 23
+Compagnons de Voyage, 24
+Grumblers and grumbling, 24
+Arrival at Havana, 25
+Passports.--Harbor of Havana, 26
+Fortifications.--Moro Castle, 27
+The city, its houses, &c., 28
+An American Sailor, 29
+Society in Havana, 30
+Barriers to social intercourse, 31
+Individual hospitality, 32
+Love of show, 33
+Neatness of the Habañeros, 34
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF HAVANA.--THE TOMB OF COLUMBUS, 35
+
+The Tacon Theatre, 35
+The Fish Market, 36
+The Cathedral 36
+Its architecture--paintings--shrines, 37
+Decline of Romanism, 38
+The Tomb of Columbus, 39
+The Inscription, 40
+Reflections, 40
+Burial, and removal of his remains, 41
+Ceremonies of his last burial, 41
+Reception of remains at Havana, 42
+The funeral procession, 43
+The Pantheon, 43
+Mr. Irving's reflections, 44
+Plaza de Armas, 44
+A misplaced monument, 45
+Statue of Ferdinand VII., 45
+Regla--business done there, 46
+Going to decay, 47
+Material for novelists, 48
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE SUBURBS OF HAVANA, AND THE INTERIOR OF THE
+ISLAND, 49
+
+Gardens.--Paseo de Tacon, 49
+Guiness, an inviting resort for invalids, 50
+Scenery on the route.--Farms--hedges--orange groves, 51
+Luxuriance of the soil, 52
+Sugar and Coffee plantations, 52
+Forests and birds, 53
+Arrival at Guiness.--The town, 53
+Valley of Guiness, 54
+Buena Esperanza, 54
+Limonar--Madruga--Cardenas--Villa Clara, 55
+Hints to invalids, 55
+Dr. Barton, 56
+Splendors of a tropical sky, 57
+The Southern Cross, 58
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA, ITS CITIES,
+TOWNS, RESOURCES, GOVERNMENT, &C. 59
+
+Political importance of Cuba, 59
+Coveted by the nations, 60
+Climate and forests, 61
+Productions and Population, 62
+Extent--principal cities, 63
+Matanzas.--Cardenas, 64
+Principe.--Santiago 65
+Bayamo--Trinidad.--Espiritu Santo, 66
+Government of Cuba, 66
+Don Leopold O'Donnell.--Count Villa Nueva, 67
+General Tacon, his services, 67
+State of Cuba when appointed governor, 68
+Change affected by his administration, 69
+His retirement, 70
+Commerce of Cuba with the United States, 70
+Our causes of complaint, 71
+The true interests of Cuba, 71
+State of education, 72
+Low condition of the people, 73
+Discovery of Cuba, 73
+Early History.--Velasquez.--Narvaez, 74
+Story of the Cacique Hatuey, 75
+The island depopulated, 76
+Rapidly colonized by Spaniards, 77
+Seven cities founded in four years, 77
+Havana removed.--The Gibraltar of America, 77
+Possibility of a successful attack, 78
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM HAVANA.--THE GULF OF MEXICO.--ARRIVAL
+AT VERA CRUZ, 79
+
+The British mail steamer Dee, 79
+Running down the coast, 80
+Beautiful scenery--associations, 81
+Discoveries of Columbus.--The island groups, 82
+The shores of the continent, 83
+The Columbian sea, 84
+The common lot of genius, 85
+Sufferings of the great.--Cervantes,--Hylander, &c., 86
+Associations, historical and romantic, 87
+Shores of the Columbian sea, 88
+Wonderful changes wrought by time, 89
+Peculiar characteristics of this sea, 90
+Arrival at Vera Cruz.--Peak of Orizaba 90
+Castle of St. Juan de Ulloa, 91
+The harbor and the city 92
+Best view from the water--houses--churches, 93
+Suburbs--population, 94
+Health--early history, 95
+The old and new towns of Vera Cruz, 96
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+SANTA ANNA DE TAMAULIPAS AND ITS VICINITY, 97
+
+The old and new towns of Tampico, 97
+The French Hotel, 98
+Early history of Tampico.--Grijalva, 98
+Situation of the new town--health, 99
+Commerce of the place--smuggling, 100
+Foreign letters--mails, 101
+Buildings--wages--rents--tone of morals, 102
+Gambling almost universal, 103
+The army.--The Cargadores, 104
+The Market Place--monument to Santa Anna, 105
+A national dilemma, 106
+"The Bluff"--Pueblo Viejo, 107
+Visit to Pueblo Viejo, 108
+Its desolate appearance.--"La Fuente," 109
+Return at sunset.--Beautiful scenery, 110
+The Rancheros of Mexico, 110
+The Arrieros, 111
+A home comparison, 111
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CANOE VOYAGE UP THE RIVER PANUCO.--RAMBLES AMONG
+THE RUINS OF ANCIENT CITIES, 113
+
+An independent mode of travelling, 113
+The river Panuco--its luxuriant banks, 114
+A Yankee Brick Yard, 115
+Indians--their position in society, 116
+An Indian man and woman, 117
+Topila Creek.--"The Lady's Room," 118
+Fellow lodgers, 119
+An aged Indian, 120
+Ancient ruins--site of an aboriginal town, 121
+Rancho de las Piedras 122
+The Topila hills--mounds, 122
+An ancient well, 123
+A wild fig tree--mounds, 124
+An incident--civil bandoleros, 125
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+FURTHER EXPLORATIONS OR THE RUINS IN THE VICINITY
+OF THE RANCHO DE LAS PIEDRAS, 127
+
+Situation of the ruins, 127
+Discoveries--a female head 128
+Description--transportation to New York, 129
+Colossal head, 130
+The American Sphinx, 132
+Conjectures, 134
+Curiously ornamented head, 136
+A mythological suggestion, 137
+Deserted by my Indian allies, 138
+A thrilling adventure, 139
+The escape, 140
+A road side view, 140
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+VISIT TO THE ANCIENT TOWN OF PANUCO.--RUINS,
+CURIOUS RELICS FOUND THERE, 141
+
+Route along the banks of the river, 141
+Scenery--rare and curious trees, 142
+Panuco and its inhabitants, 143
+Language--antiquarian researches--Mr. Gallatin, 144
+Extensive ruins in the vicinity of Panuco, 145
+Sepulchral effigy, 145
+Custom of the ancient Americans.--A conjecture, 147
+An inference, and a conclusion, 148
+Ruins on every side--Cerro Chacuaco, &c. 149
+A pair of vases, 150
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+DISCOVERY OF TALISMANIC PENATES.--RETURN BY NIGHT TO TAMPICO, 151
+
+Two curious ugly looking images, 151
+Speculations, 152
+Humbugs, 153
+The blending of idolatries, 154
+Far-fetched theories, 155
+Similarity in forms of worship evidence of a common origin, 156
+Ugliness deified--Ugnee--Gan--Miroku, 157
+The problem settled, 158
+The Chinese--Tartars--Japanese, 159
+Return to the "Lady's Room," 160
+Travelling by night--arrival at Tampico, 161
+Rumor of war--attitude of the French, 161
+Mexicans check-mated, 162
+Backing out, 163
+Dii Penates, 164
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+EXCURSION ON THE TAMISSEE RIVER.--CHAPOTÉ, ITS APPEARANCE
+IN THE LAKES AND THE GULF OF MEXICO, 165
+
+Once more in a canoe, 165
+The Tamissee--its fertile banks, 166
+Wages of labor--a promising speculation, 167
+The Banyan.--The Royal Palm, 168
+Extensive ruins.--Mounds on Carmelote creek, 169
+A Yankee house.--The native Mexicans, 170
+The chapoté in the lakes of Mexico, 171
+The chapoté in the gulf of Mexico, 172
+New Theory of the Gulf Stream, 172
+Comparative temperature of the Gulf Stream and the Ocean, 174
+Objections to this new Theory, 175
+Another Theory, not a new one, 177
+Tampico in mourning, 178
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF MEXICO, PAST AND PRESENT.--SKETCH
+OF THE CAREER OF SANTA ANNA. 179
+
+Ancient Mexico--its extent--its capital, 180
+Its imperial government--its sovereigns, 181
+Its ancient glory.--The last of a series of monarchies, 182
+Extent and antiquity of its ruins, 183
+Present condition of Mexico, 184
+Population--government--transfer of power, 185
+The Revolution--Iturbide, 186
+Internal commotions--Factions, 187
+Santa Anna, his origin and success 188
+Victoria.--Santa Anna in retirement, 189
+Pedraza,--Santa Anna in arms again, 189
+Guerrero--Barradas defeated by Santa Anna, 190
+Bustamente President.--Pedraza again, 190
+Santa Anna President.--Taken prisoner at San Jacinto, 191
+Returns to Mexico, and goes into retirement, 191
+In favor again.--Dictator--President, 192
+Paredes--Herrera--Santa Anna banished, 193
+Literature in Mexico--Veytia--Clavigero, 194
+Antonio Gama,--The inflated character of the Press, 195
+Preparing to depart--annoyances, 196
+Detained by illness,--Kindness of the American Consul, 197
+Departure--at home, 198
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE TWO AMERICAN RIDDLES, 199
+
+Baron Humboldt's caution, 199
+Enigmas of the Old World but recently solved, 200
+The two extremes of theorists, 201
+A medium course, 202
+Previous opinions of the author confirmed, 203
+Absence of tradition respecting American buildings, 203
+Nature and importance of tradition, 204
+The Aztecs an imaginative people, 205
+Supposed effect of the conquest upon them, 206
+The Aztecs not the only builders,--The Toltecs 207
+Extensive remains of Toltec architecture,--A dilemma, 208
+Character and condition of these ruins, 208
+Evidently erected in different ages, 209
+Origin of the builders--sceptical philosophies, 210
+The solitary tradition, 211
+Imaginary difficulties--tropical animals, 212
+A new Giant's Causeway, 212
+The Aborigines were not one, but many races, 213
+No head of the American type found among their sculptural remains, 213
+Art an imitation of nature--copies only from life, 214
+Inference from the absence of the Indian type, 214
+American ruins of Asiatic origin, 215
+Migratory habits of the early races of men, 215
+Overflowings of the populous north, 215
+Conclusion, 216
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS.
+
+
+ PAGE.
+VIGNETTE TITLE PAGE.
+
+MORO CASTLE, HAVANA. 27
+
+PEAK OF ORIZABA. 90
+
+CASTLE OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA, VERA CRUZ. 91
+
+INDIAN MAN AND WOMAN. 117
+
+FEMALE HEAD. 128
+
+COLOSSAL HEAD. 130
+
+THE AMERICAN SPHINX. 132
+
+CURIOUSLY ORNAMENTED HEAD. 136
+
+A SITUATION. 139
+
+A ROAD SIDE. 140
+
+SEPULCHRAL EFFIGY. 145
+
+A PAIR OF VASES. 150
+
+TRAVELLING BY NIGHT. 161
+
+TALISMANIC PENATES. 164
+
+FRAGMENTS OF IDOLS. 178
+
+
+
+
+RAMBLES BY LAND AND WATER.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+VOYAGE FROM NEW ORLEANS TO HAVANA. DESCRIPTION OF THE CAPITAL OF CUBA.
+
+ Introductory remarks.--Departure from New
+ Orleans.--Compagnons de voyage.--Their different
+ objects.--Grumblers and grumbling.--Arrival at
+ Havana.--Passports.--The Harbor.--The Fortifications.--The
+ City.--Its streets and houses.--Anecdote of a
+ sailor.--Society in Cuba.--The nobility.--"Sugar
+ noblemen."--Different grades of Society.--Effects upon the
+ stranger.--Charitable judgment invoked.--Hospitality of
+ individuals.--General love of titles and show.--Festival
+ celebration.--Neatness of the Habañeros.
+
+
+Who, in these days of easy adventure, does not make a voyage, encounter the
+perils of the boisterous ocean, gaze with rapture upon its illimitable
+expanse, make verses upon its deep, unfathomable blue--if perchance the
+Muse condescends to bear him company--plant his foot on a foreign shore,
+scrutinize the various objects which are there presented to his view,
+moralize upon them all, contemplate nations in their past, present and
+future existence, swell with wonder at the largeness of his
+comprehension--and return, if haply he may, to his native land, to pour
+into the listening ears of friends and countrymen, the tale of his ups and
+downs, his philosophic gatherings, with undisguised complacency? Whose
+history does not present a chapter analogous to this? We might almost write
+one universal epitaph, and apply it to every individual who has flourished
+in the present century.--"He lived, travelled, wrote a book, and died."
+
+And, seeing that in this auspicious age, when the public mind is alive
+
+ "To every peril, pain and dread of woe,
+ That _genius_ condescends to undergo--"
+
+when it seems disposed to appreciate the toil of intellectual effort, by
+the deference which it pays, the obedience it yields, and the signal
+support which it gives, to the meritorious productions of the historian,
+the statesman and the scholar; when we behold the power of discrimination
+so strikingly developed in the fact, that men are infinitely more regaled
+with the simple, truthful narrative, than with the ponderous tome of
+fictitious events, however pleasing the fabrication is made to
+appear;--who, it may be asked, I care not whether he has washed his hands
+in the clouds, while tossed upon the summit of a troubled wave, or looked
+out upon the world, from Alps highest peak, or whether he has leaned over
+the side of an humble canoe, to disturb the tranquil waters of some placid
+stream, above the bosom of which, his modest aspirations will never suffer
+him to rise,--who that has _travelled_, it matters not _how_, can do
+otherwise than exclaim, "Oh that my words were now written--Oh that they
+were printed in a book!"
+
+Though not disposed to allow that no higher sentiment than this prevalent
+_cacoethes scribendi_ has influenced me in the present attempt, I am,
+nevertheless, so thoroughly convinced of its epidemic prevalence at the
+present time, that I am resolved neither to wonder nor complain, if friends
+as well as foes, "gentle readers" as well as carping critics, should set it
+down as only and unquestionably a symptom. I shall retain my own opinion,
+however, albeit I do not express it; and, contenting, nay congratulating
+myself with being in good company, shall complacently set out upon another
+"ramble," and sit down to another book, whenever
+
+ "the stars propitious shine,"
+
+or health, or business, drives me away from my quiet pursuits at home.
+
+It is no slight gratification, it must be allowed, to be enabled, by so
+feeble an effort, to make all one's friends, as well as a portion of the
+great world unknown, _compagnons de voyage_ in all our rambles--to bring
+them into such a magnetic communication with our souls, that they shall at
+once see with our eyes, and hear with our ears, and enjoy, without the toil
+and weariness of travel, all that is worthy of remembrance and record, in
+our various adventures by sea and land.
+
+On the 20th of January, 1844, in company with sixty fellow passengers, I
+turned my back upon the crescent city, and embarked on board the Steam Ship
+Alabama, Captain Windle, bound from Now Orleans to Havana. Many of our
+number, like myself, were in pursuit of health and pleasure, some were
+braving the dangers and enduring the privations of the passage, for the
+purpose of amassing wealth in the sugar and coffee trade; and others were
+seeking, what they probably will never find this side the grave, a happier
+home than the one they were leaving behind them.
+
+With a variety of humors, but for the most part with light hearts, we
+committed ourselves to the mercy of a kind Providence, a capricious
+element, and a competent and gentlemanly captain; and, setting aside such
+regrets as the sensitive mind cannot but indulge, in bidding adieu to the
+land of its birth, the companions of youth, and the faithful friends of
+after years, to visit distant and dangerous regions, to invite disease and
+brave death in many forms, we were probably as happy and merry a company as
+ever pursued their trackless path over the bounding deep. Our ship and its
+regulations were unexceptionable, our table was sumptuously spread, and the
+weather, all that the most fastidious invalid could desire.
+
+To the above description of our company, I ought, perhaps, to make an
+exception in favor of a few professional grumblers from our fatherland.
+"Those John Bulls" of our company, ceased not their murmurings and
+repinings, until the recollection of imaginary wrongs, was swallowed up in
+the experience of real and substantial suffering, in the land of their
+glorious anticipations. But we must not marvel at, or find fault with, the
+redeeming trait of British character. It has long been universally admitted
+that John Bull is a grumbler. Whether it is a "streak in the blood," a
+universal family characteristic, or a matter of national education, I know
+not; but it certainly belongs to the species, as truly and distinctively as
+a light heart and a gay deportment do, to their neighbors on the other side
+of the channel. It matters not whether you speak of the King or the Queen,
+the Royal Patronage or the doings of Parliament, of England, or France, or
+the moon, he is always ready with a loud and argumentative complaint, drawn
+from his own experience. If you sympathize with him, well; if not, his
+indifference to your regard will certainly match your stoicism. Talk to him
+about Church affairs; and, in all probability, he will find a "true bill"
+against every Ecclesiastical officer, from his Grace down to the humblest
+subordinate. Still, if it be a redeeming trait, why should we not respect
+it as such? True, it does not sound well, to hear one speak in terms of
+approbation respecting a _grumbler_. But surely, it must be simply because
+we are not accustomed to view this character in its proper light. A popular
+English writer observes, that "it is probably this harsh and stubborn but
+honest propensity, which forms the bulwark of British grandeur abroad, and
+of British freedom at home. In short, it is this, _more than any thing
+else_, which has contributed to make, and still contributes to keep England
+what it is." No--it will never answer to make war upon a character like
+that of Bull. We may occasionally introduce him to the reader, but it shall
+be with a just appreciation of his _imprint_, and a profound regard for his
+material substance.
+
+After sixty hours delightful sail, we passed the celebrated castle of the
+Moro, and entered the harbor of Havana. Contrary to our expectations, we
+were permitted to land with but little delay or inconvenience, except that
+which arose from "Elnorte," or a dry norther, which was blowing when we
+arrived, and rendered our landing a little uncomfortable. The thermometer
+stood at 70°, and the "_natives_" were shivering under the severity of the
+cold!
+
+The traveller, visiting this Island, should furnish himself with a
+passport, issued or verified by the Spanish Consul, at the port from which
+he embarks. When furnished with this ihdispensable credential, if he pay a
+strict regard to the laws of the island, little difficulty is to be
+apprehended; but, neglecting this, he will be subject to fines and the most
+vexatious delays; and, probably, he will be prevented from landing.
+Strangers proceeding into the interior, for a period not exceeding four
+months, must also be prepared with a license from the Governor to that
+effect, countersigned by the Consul of the nation to which he belongs. This
+requisition is undoubtedly made upon the unsuspecting traveller, in
+consequence of impositions practiced by foreigners, during the recent
+difficulties which have taken place in Cuba. Thus will undisguising honesty
+ever suffer in the faults of a common humanity.
+
+The harbor of Havana is one of the best in the world. The entrance into it
+is by a narrow channel, admitting only one vessel at a time, while its
+capacious basin within, is capable of containing more than a thousand
+ships. The view of the harbor, as you approach it from without, with its
+forest of masts, and the antique looking buildings and towers of the city,
+contrasting powerfully with the luxuriant verdure of the hills in the
+back-ground, is scarcely second to any in the world, in panoramic beauty
+and effect; while the view sea-ward, after you enter the sheltered bay, the
+waters of the Gulf Stream lashing the very posts of the narrow gateway by
+which you came in, presents one of those bold and striking contrasts, which
+the eye can take in, and the mind appreciate, but which no pencil can
+pourtray, no pen describe.
+
+[Illustration: MORO CASTLE.]
+
+The celebrated Moro, resting upon its craggy eminence, frowns over the
+narrow inlet. The Cabañas crowning every summit of the hills opposite the
+city, is a continuous range of fortifications of great extent, from whose
+outer parapet, elevated at least a hundred and fifty feet above the level
+of the sea, a most commanding view of the city and its beautiful environs
+is obtained. These fortifications are said to have cost forty millions of
+dollars. Within a mile on the opposite shore from the Moro, is still
+another fortress, so situated upon a considerable height, that its
+batteries could easily sweep the whole space between. Looking down from
+these frowning battlements upon the busy scene below, I was struck with the
+variety of flags, from almost every nation under heaven, blending their
+various hues and curious devices, amid the thick forest of masts that lay
+at my feet. But of all the gay and flaunting streamers that waved proudly
+in the morning breeze, the stripes and stars, the ensign of freedom, the
+pride of my own green forest land, appeared always most conspicuous.
+
+The city of Havana stands on a plain, on the west side of the harbor, but
+is gradually, with its continually increasing population, stretching itself
+up into the bosom of the beautifully verdant hills by which it is
+surrounded. Its general appearance is that of a provincial capital of
+Spain. There is an air of antiquity about this, and the cities of Mexico,
+which has no similitude in the United States. The streets, which are
+straight and at right angles to each other, are McAdamized, and, in good
+weather, are remarkably clean; but, during the rainy season, they become
+almost impassable. They are also very narrow, and without any side walks
+for the foot passenger. The houses, many of which are one story high, with
+flat roofs, have a general air of neatness, and comfort. They are usually
+either white or yellow washed. Many of them are of the old Moorish style of
+architecture, dark and sombre, as the ages to which it traces back its
+origin. The doors and windows reach from the ceiling to the floor, and
+would give an airy and agreeable aspect to the buildings, were it not for
+their massive walls, and the iron gratings to the windows, which remind one
+too strongly of the prison's gloom. It is here, however, that the females
+enjoy the luxury of the air, and display their charms. They are never seen
+walking in the streets. Those who cannot afford the expense of a _volante_,
+arraying themselves with the same care as they would for a promenade, or a
+party, may be seen daily peering through their grated windows upon the
+passers by, and holding familiar conversation with their friends and
+acquaintances in the streets. Many a bright lustrous eye, and fairy-like
+foot, have I thus seen through the wires of her cheerful cage, which were
+scarcely ever seen beyond it.
+
+A characteristic anecdote is related of an American sailor, who saw several
+ladies looking out upon the street, through their grated parlor windows.
+Supposing them to be prisoners, and sympathizing with their forlorn
+condition, he told them to keep up a good heart,--and then, after observing
+that he had been in limbo himself, he threw them a dollar, to the great
+amusement of the spectators, who understood the position of the inmates.
+
+But notwithstanding the gloomy appearance of the windows, the houses are
+well ventilated by interior courts, which permit a free circulation of
+air,--a commodity which is very desirable in these latitudes. The floors
+are of flat stone or brick, the walls stuccoed or painted,--and the
+traveller, judging from the external appearance, is led to imagine that
+within, every desirable accommodation may be obtained. In this, however, he
+is disappointed, and must content himself with some privations. Huge
+door-ways and windows, a spacious saloon, together with solidity of
+construction, are the chief objects to which the architect in this country
+seems to direct his attention. The main entrance answers the purpose of a
+coach-house; and it is no uncommon thing to see the _volantes_ occupying a
+very considerable portion of the parlor. The amount demanded for rent, in
+proportion to similar accommodations in other cities, is exorbitant. The
+present population of the city and its suburbs, is about 185,000.
+
+Society in Havana,--and it is the same throughout the island--is a singular
+anomaly to the stranger. It is neither that of the city, nor that of the
+country alone--neither national, oecumenical, nor provincial, nor a mixture
+of all. There are three distinct classes of what may be termed respectable
+society--the Spanish, the creole, and the foreigner. Among the former, with
+here and there an individual of the second grade, there are some who have
+purchased titles of nobility, at prices varying from thirty to fifty
+thousand dollars. They are often distinguished by the ludicrous sobriquet
+of "sugar noblemen," most of them having acquired their titles from the
+proceeds of their sugar plantations. Besides these, there are some few who
+have obtained the coveted distinction, as a reward for military services.
+Though more honorably obtained, the title is of less value to such, as they
+rarely have the means to support the style, which usually accompanies the
+rank. There are some sixty or seventy persons in the island, thus
+distinguished, who cannot, as a matter of course, condescend to associate
+in common, with the untitled grades below them. Neither do they maintain
+any social relations among themselves. The proud Spaniard despises the
+creole, and, titled or plebeian, will have nothing to do with him, beyond
+the necessary courtesies of business. Then the "nobleman," who has worn his
+dearly bought honors _twenty years_, esteems it quite beneath his dignity
+to exchange civilities with those _novi homines_, who are but ten years
+removed from the vulgar atmosphere of common life;--while he, in his turn,
+is quite too green to stand on a par with those, whose ancestors, for two
+or three generations back, have been known to fame.
+
+The same impassable distinctions exist among the plebeian grades of
+society. The Spaniard hates the foreign resident, and will have no
+intercourse with him, except so far as his interest, in the ordinary
+transactions of business, requires. He despises the creole, who, in his
+turn, hates the Spaniard, and is jealous of the foreigner. The result of
+this position of these antagonist elements of society is, that there is no
+such thing as general social intercourse among the inhabitants of Cuba, and
+scarcely any chance at all for the stranger, to be introduced to any
+society but that of the foreign residents. As these are from almost all
+nations, the range, for any particular one, is necessarily small.
+
+This being the case, with the constitution of society in Cuba, it would be
+extremely difficult for a temporary sojourner correctly to delineate the
+character of its inhabitants, perhaps, even unfair to attempt it. He can
+never see them, as they see each other. He can rarely learn, from his
+personal observation, any thing of society, as a whole, though he may often
+have favorable opportunities of becoming favorably acquainted with
+individual families. And here, two remarks seem to me to be demanded,
+before leaving this subject. First, that in all cases where such marked
+distinctions, and deeply rooted jealousies exist between the different
+sections of society, the open slanders and covert insinuations of the one
+against the other, should be received with the most liberal allowances for
+prejudice. Envy and contempt are, by their very natures, evil-eyed,
+uncharitable, and arrant liars. They see through a distorted medium. They
+judge with one ear always closed. And he who receives their decisions as
+law will generally abuse his own common sense and good nature, by
+condemning the innocent unheard. Secondly, if the society which Cuba might
+enjoy may be judged of by the known urbanity and hospitality of
+individuals, it might become, by the breaking down of these artificial
+barriers, the very paradise of patriarchal life. I know of nothing in the
+world to compare with the free, open-handed, whole-souled hospitality which
+the merchant, or planter, of whatever grade, lavishes upon those, who are
+commended to his regard by a respectable introduction from abroad. With
+such a passport, he is no longer a stranger, but a brother, and it is the
+fault of his own heart if he is not as much at home in the family, and on
+the estate of his friend, as if it were his own. There is nothing forced,
+nothing constrained in all this. It is evidently natural, hearty, and
+sincere, and you cannot partake of it, without feeling, however modest you
+may be, that you are conferring, rather than receiving a favor. This remark
+may be applied, with almost equal force, to many of the planters in our
+Southern states, and in the other West India Islands. Many and many are the
+invalid wanderers from home, who have known and felt it, like gleams of
+sunshine in their weary pilgrimage, whose hearts will gratefully respond to
+all that I have said. What a pity then, that such noble elements should
+always remain in antagonism to each other, instead of amalgamating into one
+harmonious confraternity, mutually blessing and being blessed, in all the
+sweet humanizing interchanges of social life.
+
+Much as the inferior grades of society envy and dislike those above them,
+they all display the same love of show, the same passion for titles,
+trappings, and badges of honor, whether civil or military, whenever they
+come within their reach. And when attained, either temporarily or
+permanently, their fortunate possessors do not fail to look down on those
+beneath them, with the same supercilious pride and self gratulation, which
+they so recently condemned in others. I saw some striking, and to me,
+exceedingly ludicrous developments of this trait of character, during the
+progress of a festival celebration, in honor of the day, when queen Isabel
+was declared of age, and all the military and civil powers swore allegiance
+to her Catholic Majesty. The ceremonies of this celebration were continued
+through three days. The Plaza, and the quarters of the military, were
+splendidly illuminated with variegated lamps, and the buildings, public and
+private, were hung with tapestry and paintings, interspersed with small
+brilliant lights. Business was entirely suspended, and the streets were
+thronged with gay excited multitudes, arrayed with every species of finery,
+and decked with every ornament of distinction, which their circumstances,
+or position in society, would allow. Reviews of troops, and sham fights on
+land and sea, in which the Governor, and all the high dignitaries of the
+island, took part, occupied a portion of the time, the remainder being
+filled up with balls, masquerades, and a round of other amusements.
+
+I do not know that it has been remarked by any other writer, but I observed
+it so often as to satisfy myself that it was a general characteristic of
+the better classes of the Habañeros, that they have a singular antipathy to
+water. After a shower of rain, they are seldom seen in the streets, except
+in their _volantes_, till they have had time to become perfectly dry. When
+necessity compels them to appear, they walk with the peculiar
+circumspection of a cat, picking their way with a care and timidity that
+often seems highly ludicrous. They are neat and cleanly in their persons,
+almost to a fault, and it is the fear of contracting the slightest soil
+upon their dress, that induces this scrupulous nicety in "taking heed to
+their steps."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF HAVANA, AND THE TOMB OF COLUMBUS.
+
+ The Tacon Theatre.--The Fish Market.--Its Proprietor.--The
+ Cathedral.--Its adornments.--View of Romanism.--Infidelity.--The
+ Tomb of Columbus.--The Inscription.--Reflections suggested by
+ it.--The Removal of his Remains.--Mr. Irving's eloquent
+ reflections.--A misplaced Monument.--Plaza de Armas.
+
+
+
+Among the public buildings in Havana, there are many worthy of a particular
+description. Passing over the Governor's House, the Intendencia, the
+Lunatic Asylum, Hospitals, etc., to which I had not time to give a personal
+inspection, I shall notice only the Tacon Theatre, the Fish Market, and the
+Cathedral.
+
+The Tacon Theatre is a splendid edifice, and is said to be capable of
+containing four or five thousand spectators. It has even been stated, that,
+at the recent masquerade ball given there, no less than seven thousand were
+assembled within its walls. This building was erected by an individual, at
+an expense of two hundred thousand dollars. It contains three tiers of
+boxes, two galleries, and a pit, besides saloons, coffee-rooms, offices,
+etc., etc. A trellis of gilded iron, by which the boxes are balustraded,
+imparts to the house an unusually gay and airy appearance. The pit is
+arranged with seats resembling arm-chairs, neatly covered, and comfortably
+cushioned. The Habañeros are a theatre-going people, and bestow a liberal
+patronage upon any company that is worthy of it.
+
+The Fish Market is an object of no little interest in Havana, not only for
+the rich variety of beautiful fishes that usually decorate its long marble
+table, but for the place itself, and its history. It was built during the
+administration of Tacon, by a Mr. Marti, who, for a service rendered the
+government, in detecting a gang of smugglers, with whom it has been
+suspected he was too well acquainted, was permitted to monopolize the sale
+of fish in the city for twenty years. Having the prices at his own control,
+he has made an exceedingly profitable business of it, and is now one of the
+rich men of the island. He is the sole proprietor of the Tacon Theatre,
+which is one of the largest in the world, and which has also the privilege
+of a twenty years monopoly, without competition from any rival
+establishment.
+
+The Fish Market is one hundred and fifty feet in length, with one marble
+table extending from end to end, the roof supported by a series of arches,
+resting upon plain pillars. It is open on one side to the street, and on
+the other to the harbor. It is consequently well ventilated and airy. It is
+the neatest and most inviting establishment of the kind that I have ever
+seen in any country; and no person should visit Havana, without paying his
+respects to it.
+
+The Cathedral is a massive building, constructed in the ecclesiastical
+style of the fifteenth century. It is situated in the oldest and least
+populous part of the city, near the Fish Market, and toward the entrance of
+the port. It is a gloomy, heavy looking pile, with little pretensions to
+architectural taste and beauty, in its exterior, though the interior is
+considered very beautiful. It is built of the common coral rock of that
+neighborhood, which is soft and easily worked, when first quarried, but
+becomes hard by exposure to the atmosphere. It is of a yellowish white
+color, and somewhat smooth when laid up, but assumes in time a dark, dingy
+hue, and undergoes a slight disintegration on its surface, which gives it
+the appearance of premature age and decay.
+
+In the interior, two ranges of massive columns support the ceiling, which
+is high, and decorated with many colors in arabesque, with figures in
+fresco. The sides are filled, as is usual in Roman Catholic churches, with
+the shrines of various Saints, among which, that of St. Christoval, the
+patron of the city, is conspicuous. The paintings are numerous; and some of
+them, the works of no ungifted pencils, are well worthy of a second look.
+
+The shrines display less of gilding and glitter than is usual in other
+places. They are all of one style of architecture, simple and unpretending;
+and the effect of the whole is decidedly pleasing, if not imposing. This
+effect is somewhat heightened by the dim, uncertain light which pervades
+the building. The windows are small and high up towards the ceiling, and
+cannot admit the broad glare of day, to disturb the solemn and gloomy
+grandeur of the place of prayer.
+
+It has been observed by residents as well as by strangers, that the
+attendance on the masses and other ceremonies of the Roman church, has
+greatly diminished within a few late years. I have often seen nearly as
+many officiating priests, as worshippers, at matins and vespers. They are
+attended, as in all other places, chiefly by women, and not, as the
+romances of the olden time would have us suppose it once was, by the young,
+the beautiful, the warm-hearted and enthusiastic, but by the old and ugly,
+so that a looker-on might be led to imagine that the holy place was only a
+_dernier resort_, and refuge for those, for whom the world had lost its
+charms. That there were some exceptions, however, to this remark, my memory
+and my heart must bear witness--some, whose graceful, voluptuous figures,
+bent down before their shrines, their beaming faces and keen black eyes
+scarce hidden by their mantillas, might have furnished a more stoical heart
+than mine with a very plausible excuse for paying homage to them, rather
+than to the saints, before whose shrines they were kneeling.
+
+In the various religious orders of this church, there has been a
+corresponding diminution of numbers and zeal. The convents of friars, in
+Havana, have been much reduced, and but few young men are found, who are
+disposed to join them; so that, in another generation, they may become
+quite extinct, unless their numbers are replenished from the mother
+country. The Government has taken possession of their buildings, and
+converted them to other uses, and pensioned off their inmates, allowing a
+premium to those who would quit the monastic life, and engage in secular
+business.
+
+Among the people, infidelity seems to have taken the place of the old
+superstition. Their holy-days are still kept up, because they love the
+excitement and revelry, to which they have been accustomed. Their frequent
+recurrence is a great annoyance to those who have business at the Custom
+House, and other public offices, while they add nothing to the religious or
+moral aspect of the place. Sunday is distinguished from the other days of
+the week, only by the increase of revelry, cock-fighting, gambling, and
+every other species of unholy employment. These are certainly no
+improvement upon the customs of other days, for blind superstition is
+better than profaneness, and ignorance than open vice. But, in one respect,
+the protestant sojourner in Havana may feel and acknowledge that times have
+changed for the better, since he is not liable now, as formerly, to be
+knocked down in the street, or imprisoned, for refusing to kneel in the
+dirt, when "the host" was passing.
+
+In this Cathedral, on the right side of the great altar, is "The Tomb of
+Columbus." A small recess made in the wall to receive the bones, is covered
+with a marble tablet about three feet in length. Upon the face of this is
+sculptured, in bold relief, the portrait of the great discoverer, with his
+right hand resting upon a globe. Under the portrait, various naval
+implements are represented, with the following inscription in Spanish.
+
+ ¡O Restos é Imagen del grande Colon!
+ Mil siglos durad guardados en la Orna,
+ Y en la remembranza de nuestra Nacion.
+
+On the left side of the high Altar, opposite the tomb, hangs a small
+painting, representing a number of priests performing some religious
+ceremony. It is very indifferent as a work of art, but possesses a peculiar
+value and interest, as having been the constant cabin companion of
+Columbus, in all his eventful voyages, a fact which is recorded in an
+inscription on a brass plate, attached to the picture.
+
+The Lines on the tablet may be thus translated into English.
+
+ O Remains and Image of the great Columbus!
+ A thousand ages may you endure, guarded in this Urn;
+ And in the remembrance of our Nation.
+
+Such is the sentiment inscribed on the last resting place of the ashes of
+the discoverer of a world. An inscription worthy of its place, bating the
+arrogance and selfishness of the last line, which would claim for a single
+nation, that which belongs as a common inheritance to the world. It is a
+pardonable assumption however; for, where is the nation, under the face of
+heaven, that would not, if it could, monopolize the glory of such a name?
+
+The glory of a name! Alas! that those who win, are so seldom allowed to
+wear it! Through toil and struggle, through poverty and want, through
+crushing care and heart-rending disappointments, through seas of fire and
+blood, and perhaps through unrelenting persecution, contumely and reproach,
+they climb to some proud pinnacle, from which even the ingratitude and
+injustice of a heartless world cannot bring them down; and there, alone,
+deserted and pointed at, like an eagle entangled in his mountain eyrie,
+amid the screams and hootings of inferior birds, they die,--bequeathing
+their greatness to the world, leaving upon the generation around them a
+debt of unacknowledged obligation, which after ages and distant and unborn
+nations, shall contend for the honor of assuming forever. The glory of a
+name! What a miserable requital for the cruel neglect and iron injustice,
+which repaid the years of suffering and self-sacrifice, by which it was
+earned!
+
+Columbus died at Valladolid, on the 20th of May, 1506, aged 70 years. His
+body was deposited in the convent of St. Francisco, and his funeral
+obsequies were celebrated with great pomp, in the parochial church of Santa
+Maria de la Antigua. In 1513, his remains were removed to Seville, and
+deposited, with those of his son, and successor, Don Diego, in the chapel
+of Santo Christo, belonging to the Carthusian Monastery of Las Cuevas. In
+1536, the bodies of Columbus and his son were both removed to the island of
+Hispaniola, which had been the centre and seat of his vice-royal government
+in this western world, and interred in the principal chapel of the
+Cathedral of the city of San Domingo. But even here, they did not rest in
+quiet. By the treaty of peace in 1795, Hispaniola, with other Spanish
+possessions in these waters, passed into the hands of France. With a
+feeling highly honorable to the nation, and to those who conducted the
+negotiations, the Spanish officers requested and obtained leave to
+translate the ashes of the illustrious hero to Cuba.
+
+The ceremonies of this last burial were exceedingly magnificent and
+imposing, such as have rarely been rendered to the dust of the proudest
+monarchs on earth, immediately after their decease, and much less after a
+lapse of almost three centuries. On the arrival of the San Lorenzo in the
+harbor of Havana, on the 15th of January, 1796, the whole population
+assembled to do honor to the occasion, the ecclesiastical, civil, and
+military bodies vying with each other in showing respect to the sacred
+relics. On the 19th, every thing being in readiness for their reception, a
+procession of boats and barges, three abreast, all habited in mourning,
+with muffled oars, moved solemnly and silently from the ship to the mole.
+The barge occupying the centre of these lines, bore a coffin, covered with
+a pall of black velvet, ornamented with fringes and tassels of gold, and
+guarded by a company of marines in mourning. It was brought on shore by the
+captains of the vessels, and delivered to the authorities. Conveyed to the
+Plaza de Armas, in solemn procession, it was placed in an ebony
+sarcophagus, made in the form of a throne, elaborately carved and gilded.
+This was supported on a high bier, richly covered with black velvet,
+forty-two wax candles burning around it.
+
+In this position, the coffin was opened in the presence of the Governor,
+the Captain General, and the Commander of the royal marines. A leaden
+chest, a foot and a half square, by one foot in height, was found within.
+On opening this chest, a small piece of bone and a quantity of dust were
+seen, which was all that remained of the great Columbus. These were
+formally, and with great solemnity pronounced to be the remains of the
+"_incomparable Almirante Christoval Colon_." All was then carefully closed
+up, and replaced in the ebony sarcophagus.
+
+A procession was then formed to the Cathedral, in which all the pomp and
+circumstance of a military parade, and the solemn and imposing grandeur of
+the ecclesiastical ceremonial, were beautifully and harmoniously blended
+with the more simple, but not less heartfelt demonstrations of the civic
+multitude--the air waving and glittering with banners of every device, and
+trembling with vollies of musketry, and the ever returning minute guns from
+the forts, and the armed vessels in the harbor. The pall bearers were all
+the chief men of the island, who, by turns, for a few moments at a time,
+held the golden tassels of the sarcophagus.
+
+Arrived at the Cathedral, which was hung in black, and carpeted throughout,
+while the massive columns were decorated with banners infolded with black,
+the sarcophagus was placed on a stand, under a splendid Ionic pantheon,
+forty feet high by fourteen square, erected under the dome of the church,
+for the temporary reception of these remains. The architecture and
+decorations of this miniature temple, were rich and beautiful in the
+extreme. Sixteen white columns, four on each side, supported a splendidly
+friezed architrave and cornice, above which, on each side, was a
+frontispiece, with passages in the life of Columbus figured in bas-relief.
+Above this, rising out of the dome of the pantheon, was a beautiful
+obelisk. The pedestal was ornamented with a crown of laurels, and two olive
+branches. On the lower part of the obelisk were emblazoned the arms of
+Columbus, accompanied by Time, with his hands tied behind him--Death,
+prostrate--and Fame, proclaiming the hero immortal in defiance of Death
+and Time. Other emblematic figures occupied the arches of the dome.
+
+The pantheon, and the whole Cathedral, was literally a-blaze with the light
+of wax tapers, several hundred of which were so disposed as to give the
+best effect to the imposing spectacle. The solemn service of the dead was
+chanted, mass was celebrated, and a funeral oration pronounced. Then, as
+the last responses, and the pealing anthem, resounded through the lofty
+arches of the Cathedral, the coffin was removed from the Pantheon, and
+borne by the Field Marshal, the Intendente, and other distinguished
+functionaries, to its destined resting place in the wall, and the cavity
+closed by the marble slab, which I have already described.
+
+"When we read," says the eloquent Mr. Irving, "of the remains of Columbus,
+thus conveyed from the port of St. Domingo, after an interval of nearly
+three hundred years, as sacred national reliques, with civic and military
+pomp, and high religious ceremonial; the most dignified and illustrious men
+striving who should most pay them reverence; we cannot but reflect, that it
+was from this very port he was carried off, loaded with ignominious chains,
+blasted apparently in fame and fortune, and followed by the revilings of
+the rabble. Such honors, it is true, are nothing to the dead, nor can they
+atone to the heart, now dust and ashes, for all the wrongs and sorrows it
+may have suffered: but they speak volumes of comfort to the illustrious,
+yet slandered and persecuted living, showing them how true merit outlives
+all calumny, and receives it glorious reward in the admiration of after
+ages."
+
+Near the Quay, in front of the Plaza de Armas, is a plain ecclesiastical
+structure, in which the imposing ceremony of the mass is occasionally
+celebrated. It is intended to commemorate the landing of the great
+discoverer, and the inscription upon a tablet in the front of the building,
+conveys the impression that it was erected on the very spot where he first
+set foot upon the soil of Cuba. This, however, is an error. Columbus
+touched the shore of Cuba, at a point which he named Santa Catalina, a few
+miles west of Neuvitas del Principe, and some three hundred miles east of
+Havana. He proceeded along the coast, westward, about a hundred miles, to
+the Laguna de Moron, and then returned. He subsequently explored all the
+southern coast of the island, from its eastern extremity to the Bay of
+Cortes, within fifty miles of Cape Antonio, its western terminus. Had he
+continued his voyage a day or two longer, he would doubtless have reached
+Havana, compassed the island, and discovered the northern continent.
+
+The Plaza de Armas is beautifully ornamented with trees and fountains. It
+is also adorned with a colossal statue of Ferdinand VII.; and during the
+evenings, when the scene is much enlivened by the fine music of the
+military bands stationed in the vicinity, it is the general resort of
+citizens and strangers;--the former of whom come hither to enjoy the
+cheering melody of the music and the freshness of the breeze,--the latter,
+for the purpose of doing homage to the memory of him whose footsteps are
+supposed to have sanctified the ground. Here, and around the sepulchre of
+the departed, a holy reverence seems to linger, which attracts the visitor
+as to "pilgrim shrines," before which he bends with respect and
+admiration.
+
+The village of Regla, one of the suburbs of Havana, is situated on the
+eastern side of the harbor, about a mile from the city, and having constant
+communication with it, by means of a ferry. It is a place of about six
+thousand inhabitants, and is the great depot of the molasses trade. Immense
+tanks are provided to receive the molasses, as it comes in from the
+neighboring estates. I say the _neighboring_ estates, for the article is of
+so little value, that it will not pay the expense of transportation from
+any considerable distance; and very large quantities of it are annually
+thrown away. In some places you may see the ditches by the road side filled
+with it. In others, the liquid is given to any who will take it away,
+though in doing so, they are expected to pay something more than its real
+value for the hogshead.
+
+The greater part of the molasses that comes to Regla from the interior, to
+supply the export trade of Havana, is brought in five gallon kegs, on the
+backs of the mules, one on each side, after the manner of saddle-bags, or
+panniers. A common mule load is four or six kegs, equal to half, or
+two-thirds of a barrel. Large quantities are also transported in lighters
+from all the smaller towns on the coast, much of it coming in that way from
+a distance of more than a hundred miles. A large proportion of the article
+shipped from this port hitherto, having been unfit for ordinary domestic
+uses, and suitable only for the distillery, the trade in it has been
+greatly diminished by the operation of the mighty Temperance reform, which
+has blessed so large a portion of our favored land. I have not the means at
+hand to show the precise results; but will venture to assert, from
+personal observation and knowledge of the matter, that the exports of this
+article from Cuba to this country, for distilling purposes, have fallen off
+more than one half in the last ten years.
+
+The concentration of this once active and lucrative traffic at Regla, gave
+it, in former times, the aspect of a busy, thriving place. Now, it looks
+deserted and poor. It was formerly one of the many resorts of the pirates,
+robbers, and smugglers, who infested all the avenues to the capital, and
+carried on their business as a regular branch of trade, under the very
+walls of the city, and in full view of the custom-house and the castle.
+Thanks to the energetic administration of Tacon, they have no authorized
+rendezvous in Cuba now. Regla is consequently deserted. Its streets are as
+quiet as the green lanes of the country. Its houses are many of them going
+to decay. Its theatre is in ruins, and the spacious octagonal amphitheatre,
+once the arena for bull-fighting, the favorite spectacle of the Spaniards,
+both in Spain and in the provinces, and much resorted to from all quarters
+in the palmy days of piracy and intemperance, is now in a miserably
+dilapidated condition; affording the clearest proof of the immoral nature
+and tendency of the sport, by revealing the character of those who alone
+can sustain it. Tacon and temperance have ruined Regla.
+
+The only amusement one can now find in Regla, is in listening to the wild
+and frightful stories of the robbers and robberies of other days. It is
+scarcely possible to conceive that scenes such as are there described, as
+of daily, or rather nightly occurrence, could have taken place in a spot
+now so quiet and secure, and without any of those dark, mysterious lurking
+places, which the imagination so easily conjures up, as essential to the
+successful prosecution of the profession of an organized band of outlaws.
+The system set in operation by Tacon, is still maintained; and mounted
+guards are nightly seen scouring the deserted and comparatively quiet
+avenues, offering an arm of defence to the solitary and timid traveller,
+and a caution to the evil-disposed, that the stern eye of the law is upon
+them. Volumes of entertaining history, for those who have the taste to be
+entertained by the marvellous and horrible, might be written on this spot.
+And I respectfully recommend a pilgrimage to it, and a careful study of its
+scenery and topography, to those young novelists and magazine writers, who
+delight to revel in carnage, and blood, and treachery.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE SUBURBS OF HAVANA, AND THE INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND.
+
+ The Gardens.--The Paseo de Tacon.--Guiness an inviting
+ resort.--Scenery on the route.--Farms.--Hedges of Lime and
+ Aloe.--Orange Groves.--Pines.--Luxuriance of the
+ Soil.--Coffee and Sugar Plantations.--Forests.--Flowers and
+ Birds.--The end of the Road.--Description of Guiness.--The
+ Hotel.--The Church.--The Valley of Guiness.--Beautiful
+ Scenery.--Other Resorts for Invalids.--Buena Esperanza.--The
+ route to it.--Limonar.--Madruga.--Cardenas, etc.--Cuba the
+ winter resort of Invalids.--Remarks of an intelligent
+ Physician.--Pulmonary Cases.--Tribute to Dr. Barton.--The
+ clearness of the Moon.--The beauties of a Southern Sky.--The
+ Southern Cross.
+
+
+The neighborhood of Havana abounds with pleasant rides, and delightful
+resorts, in which the invalid may find the sweetest and most delicious
+repose, as well as invigorating recreation; while the man of cultivated
+taste, and the devout worshipper of nature, may revel in a paradise of
+delights. Among the many attractive localities, in the immediate vicinity
+of the city, the gardens of the Governor and the Bishop are pre-eminent.
+
+Outside the city wall is the "Paseo de Tacon," which is a general resort,
+not only for equestrians and pedestrians, but also for visitors in their
+cumbrous _volantes_. The stranger will find himself richly rewarded on a
+visit to this frequented resort. It consists of three ways: the central,
+and widest, for carriages; and the two lateral, which are shaded by rows of
+trees and provided with stone seats, for foot passengers. It presents a
+lively and picturesque scene, crowded as it is with people of all classes,
+neatly, if not elegantly dressed.
+
+A delightful excursion to Guiness occupies but four or five hours by
+rail-road. It is much frequented by invalids, as an escape from the
+monotonous routine of city life, and presents many advantages for the
+restoration of health, and the gratification of rural tastes and pursuits.
+Surrounded by luxurious groves of orange and other fruit trees,--by coffee
+and sugar plantations,--in full view of the table lands, proximating
+towards the mountains, and enjoying from November till May, a climate
+unequalled perhaps by any other on the face of the globe; the fortunate
+visitor cannot but feel that, if earth produces happiness in any of its
+charmed haunts, "the heart that is humble might hope for it here;" and the
+invalid, forgetting the object of his pursuit, might linger forever around
+its rich groves and shady walks. During three months of the year, the
+thermometer ranges about 80° at sunrise, seldom varying more than from 70°
+to 88°. Nearer the coast, there is more liability to fever.
+
+In the trip to Guiness, we did not fly over the ground as we often do on
+some of the rail-roads of our own country, the rate seldom exceeding
+fifteen miles an hour. And it would be more loss than gain to the
+passengers to go faster. The country is too beautiful, too rich in
+verdure, too luxuriant in fruits and flowers, and too picturesque in
+landscape scenery, to be hurried over at a breath. Passing the suburbs of
+the city, and the splendid gardens of Tacon, the road breaks out into the
+beautiful open country, threading its arrowy way through the rich
+plantations and thriving farms, whose vegetable treasures of every
+description can scarcely be paralleled on the face of the earth. The farms
+which supply the markets of the city with their daily abundance of
+necessaries and luxuries, occupy the foreground of this lovely picture.
+They are separated from each other, sometimes by hedges of the fragrant
+white flowering lime, or the stiff prim-looking aloe, (_agave americana_,)
+armed on every side with pointed lances, and lifting their tall flowering
+stems, like grenadier sentinels with their bristling bayonets, in close
+array, full twenty feet into the air. Those who have not visited the
+tropics, can scarcely conceive the luxuriant and gigantic growth of their
+vegetable productions. These hedges, once planted, form as impenetrable a
+barrier as a wall of adamant, or a Macedonian phalanx; and wo to the
+unmailed adventurer, who should attempt to scale or storm those self-armed
+and impregnable defences.
+
+Within these natural walls, clustered in the golden profusion of that
+favored clime, are often seen extensive groves of orange and pine apple,
+whose perennial verdure is ever relieved and blended with the fragrant
+blossom--loading the air with its perfume, till the sense almost aches with
+its sweetness--and the luscious fruit, chasing each other in unfading
+beauty and inexhaustible fecundity, through an unbroken round of summers,
+that know neither spring time, nor decay. There is nothing in nature more
+enchantingly wonderful to the eye than this perpetual blending of flower
+and fruit, of summer and harvest, of budding brilliant youth, full of hope
+and promise and gaiety, and mature ripe manhood, laden with the golden
+treasures of hopes realized, and promises fulfilled. How rich must be the
+resources of the soil, that can sustain, without exhaustion, this lavish
+and unceasing expenditure of its nutritious elements! How vigorous and
+thrifty the vegetation, that never falters nor grows old, under this
+incessant and prodigal demand upon its vital energies!
+
+It is so with all the varied products of those ardent climes. Crop follows
+crop, and harvest succeeds harvest, in uninterrupted cycles of prolific
+beauty and abundance. The craving wants, the grasping avarice of man alone
+exceeds the unbounded liberality of nature's free gifts.
+
+The coffee and sugar plantations, chequering the beautiful valleys, and
+stretching far up into the bosom of the verdant hills, are equally
+picturesque and beautiful with the farms we have just passed. They are,
+indeed, farms on a more extended scale, limited to one species of lucrative
+culture. The geometrical regularity of the fields, laid out in uniform
+squares, though not in itself beautiful to the eye, is not disagreeable as
+a variety, set off as it is by the luxuriant growth and verdure of the
+cane, and diversified with clumps of pines and oranges, or colonnades of
+towering palms. The low and evenly trimmed coffee plants, set in close and
+regular columns, with avenues of mangoes, palms, oranges, or pines, leading
+back to the cool and shady mansion of the proprietor, surrounded with its
+village of thatched huts laid out in a perfect square, and buried in
+overshadowing trees, form a complete picture of oriental wealth and luxury,
+with its painful but inseparable contrast of slavery and wretchedness.
+
+The gorgeous tints of many of the forest flowers, and the yet more gorgeous
+plumage of the birds, that fill the groves sometimes with melody delightful
+to the ear, and sometimes with notes of harshest discord, fill the eye with
+a continual sense of wonder and delight. Here the glaring scarlet flamingo,
+drawn up as in battle array on the plain, and there the gaudy parrot,
+glittering in every variety of brilliant hue, like a gay bouquet of
+clustered flowers amid the trees, or the delicate, irised, spirit-like
+humming birds, flitting, like animated flowerets from blossom to blossom,
+and coqueting with the fairest and sweetest, as if rose-hearts were only
+made to furnish honey-dew for their dainty taste--what can exceed the fairy
+splendor of such a scene!
+
+But roads will have an end, especially when every rod of the way is replete
+with all that can gratify the eye, and regale the sense, of the traveller.
+The forty-five miles of travel that take you to Guiness, traversing about
+four-fifths of the breadth of the island, appear, to one unaccustomed to a
+ride through such garden-like scenery, quite too short and too easily
+accomplished; and you arrive at the terminus, while you are yet dreaming of
+the midway station, looking back, rather than forward, and lingering in
+unsatisfied delight among the fields and groves that have skirted the way.
+
+San Julian de los Guiness is a village of about twenty-five hundred
+inhabitants, and one of the pleasantest in the interior of the Island. It
+is a place of considerable resort for invalids, and has many advantages
+over the more exposed places near the northern shore. The houses in the
+village are neat and comfortable. The hotel is one of the best in the
+island. The church is large, built in the form of a cross, with a square
+tower painted blue. Its architecture is rude, and as unattractive as the
+fanciful color of its tower.
+
+The valley, or rather the plain of Guiness, is a rich and well watered
+bottom, shut in on three sides by mountain walls, and extending between
+them quite down to the sea, a distance of nearly twenty miles. It is,
+perhaps, the richest district in the island, and in the highest state of
+cultivation. It is sprinkled all over with cattle and vegetable farms, and
+coffee and sugar estates, of immense value, whose otherwise monotonous
+surface is beautifully relieved by clusters, groves, and avenues of stately
+palms, and flowering oranges, mangoes and pines, giving to the whole the
+aspect of a highly cultivated garden.
+
+I have dwelt longer upon the description of Guiness, and the route to it,
+because it will serve, as it respects the scenery, and the general face of
+the country, as a pattern for several other routes; the choice of which is
+open to the stranger, in quest of health, or a temporary refuge from the
+business and bustle of the city.
+
+One of these is Buena Esperanza, the coffee estate of Dr. Finlay, near
+Alquizar, and about forty miles from Havana. One half of this distance is
+reached in about two hours, in the cars. The remainder is performed in
+_volantes_, passing through the pleasant villages of Bejucal, San Antonio,
+and Alquizar, and embracing a view of some of the most beautiful portions
+of Cuba. Limonar, a small village, embosomed in a lovely valley, a few
+miles from Matanzas--Madruga, with its sulphur springs, four leagues from
+Guiness--Cardenas--Villa Clara--San Diego--and many other equally beautiful
+and interesting places, will claim the attention, and divide the choice of
+the traveller.
+
+An intelligent writer remarks that, "with the constantly increasing
+facilities for moving from one part of this island to the other, the
+extension and improvement of the houses of entertainment in the vicinity of
+Havana, and the gaiety and bustle of the city itself during the winter
+months, great inducements are held out to visit this 'queen of the
+Antilles;' and perhaps the time is not far distant, when Havana may become
+the winter _Saratoga_ of the numerous travellers from the United States, in
+search either of health or recreation." He then proceeds to suggest, what
+must be obvious to any reflecting and observing mind, that those whose
+cases are really critical and doubtful, should always remain at home, where
+attendance and comforts can be procured, which money cannot purchase. To
+leave home and friends in the last stages of a lingering consumption, for
+example, and hope to renew, in a foreign clime and among strangers, the
+exhausted energies of a system, whose foundations have been sapped, and its
+vital functions destroyed, is but little better than madness. In such
+cases, the change of climate rarely does the patient any good, and
+particularly if accompanied with the usual advice--to "use the fruits
+freely." Those, however, who are but slightly affected, who require no
+extra attention and nursing, but simply the benefit a favorable climate,
+co-operating with their own prudence in diet and exercise, and who are
+willing to abide by the advice of an intelligent physician on the spot, may
+visit Cuba with confidence, nay, with positive assurance, that a complete
+cure will be effected. This is the easiest, and, in most cases, the
+cheapest course that can be pursued, in the earlier stages of bronchial
+affections.
+
+As a lover of my species, and particularly of my countrymen, so many of
+whom have occasion to resort to blander climates, to guard against the
+insidious inroads of consumption, I cannot leave this subject, without
+making use of my privilege, as a writer, to say a word of an eminent
+physician, residing in Havana, who enjoys an exalted and deserved
+reputation in the treatment of pulmonary diseases. I refer to Dr. Barton, a
+gentleman whose name is dear, not only to the many patients, whom, under
+providence, he has restored from the verge of the grave, but to as numerous
+a circle of devoted friends, as the most ambitious affection could desire.
+His skill as a physician is not the only quality, that renders him
+peculiarly fitted to occupy the station, where providence has placed him.
+His kindness of heart, his urbanity of manners, his soothing attentions,
+his quick perception of those thousand nameless delicacies, which, in the
+relation of physician and patient, more than any other on earth, are
+continually occuring, give him a pre-eminent claim to the confidence and
+regard of all who are brought within the sphere of his professional
+influence. To the stranger, visiting a foreign clime in quest of health,
+far from home and friends, this is peculiarly important. And to all such, I
+can say with the fullest confidence, they will find in him all that they
+could desire in the most affectionate father, or the most devoted brother.
+
+In the interior of the island, I observed that the moon displays a far
+greater radiance than in higher latitudes. To such a degree is this true,
+that reading by its light was discovered to be quite practicable; and, in
+its absence, the brilliancy of the Milky Way, and the planet Venus, which
+glitters with so effulgent a beam as to cast a shade from surrounding
+objects, supply, to a considerable extent, the want of it. These effects
+are undoubtedly produced by the clearness of the atmosphere, and, perhaps,
+somewhat increased by the altitude. The same peculiarities have been
+observed, in an inferior degree, upon the higher ranges of the Alleghany
+mountains, and in many other elevated situations, where, far above the dust
+and mists of the lower world, celestial objects are seen with a clearer
+eye, as well as through a more transparent medium.
+
+In this region, the traveller from the north is also at liberty to gaze, as
+it were, upon an unknown firmament, contemplating stars that he has never
+before been permitted to see. The scattered Nebulæ in the vast expanse
+above--the grouping of stars of the first magnitude, and the opening of new
+constellations to the view, invest with a peculiar interest the first view
+of the southern sky. The great Humboldt observed it with deep emotion, and
+described it, as one appropriately affected by its novel beauty. Other
+voyagers have done the same, till the impression has become almost
+universal, among those who have not "crossed the line," that the southern
+constellations are, in themselves, more brilliant, and more beautifully
+grouped, than those of the northern hemisphere. In prose and poetry alike,
+this illusion has been often sanctioned by the testimony of great names.
+But it is an illusion still, to be accounted for only by the natural effect
+of _novelty_ upon a sensitive mind, and an ardent imagination. The denizen
+of the south is equally affected by the superior wonders of the northern
+sky, and expatiates with poetic rapture upon the glories which, having
+become familiar to our eyes, are less admired than they should be.
+
+If any exception should be made to the above remarks, it should be only
+with reference to the Southern Cross, which, regarded with a somewhat
+superstitious veneration by the inhabitants of these beautiful regions, as
+an emblem of their faith, is seen in all its glory, shedding its soft, rich
+light upon the rolling spheres, elevating the thoughts and affections of
+the heart, and leading the soul far beyond those brilliant orbs of the
+material heavens, to the contemplation of that "Hope, which we have as an
+anchor of the soul, both sure and steadfast."
+
+It would be an easy task to enlarge upon the wonders of the sky, but how
+shall man describe the works of HIM "who maketh Arcturus, Orion, Pleiades,
+and _the Chambers of the South_?"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF THE ISLAND OF CUBA, ITS CITIES, TOWNS, RESOURCES,
+GOVERNMENT, ETC.
+
+ Its political importance.--Coveted by the Nations.--National
+ Robbery and Injustice.--Climate of Cuba.--Its Forests and
+ Fruits.--Its great staples, Sugar and Coffee.--Copper
+ mines.--Population.--Extent and surface.--Principal
+ cities.--Matanzas.--Cardenas.--Puerto del
+ Principe.--Santiago de Cuba.--Bayamo.--Trinidad de
+ Cuba.--Espiritu Santo.--Government of the Island.--Count
+ Villa Nueva.--Character and Services of Tacon.--Commerce of
+ Cuba.--Relations to the United States.--Our causes of
+ complaint.--The true interests of Cuba.--State of
+ Education.--Discovery and early history of the Island.
+
+
+Cuba is the largest, richest, most flourishing, and most important of the
+West India Islands. In a political point of view, its importance cannot be
+rated too high. Its geographical position, its immense resources, the
+peculiar situation, impregnable strength, and capacious harbor of its
+capital, give to it the complete command of the whole Gulf of Mexico, to
+which it is the key. It is certainly an anomaly in the political history of
+the world, that so weak a power as that of Spain, should be allowed to hold
+so important a post, by the all-grasping, ambitious thrones of Europe--to
+say nothing of the United States, where decided symptoms of relationship to
+old England begin to appear. It has often been found easy, where no just
+cause of quarrel exists, to make one; and it is a matter of marvel that the
+same profound wisdom and far-reaching benevolence, that found means to
+justify an aggressive war upon China, because, in the simplicity of her
+semi-barbarism, she would not consent to have the untold millions of her
+children drugged to death with English opium--cannot now make slavery, or
+the slave trade, or piracy, or something else of the kind, a divinely
+sanctioned apology for pouncing upon Cuba. That she has long coveted it,
+and often laid plots to secure it, there is no doubt. That it would be the
+richest jewel in her crown, and help greatly to lessen the enormous burdens
+under which her tax-ridden population is groaning, there can be no
+question. But, the science of politics is deep and full of mysteries. It
+has many problems which even time cannot solve.
+
+And then, as to these United States--how conveniently might Cuba be
+annexed! How nicely it would hook on to the spoon-bill of Florida, and
+protect the passage to our southern metropolis, and the trade of the Gulf.
+We can claim it by an excellent logic, on the ground that it was once bound
+closely to Florida, the celebrated de Soto being governor of both; and
+Spain had no more right to separate them, in the sale and cession of
+Florida, than she or her provinces had, afterwards, to separate Texas from
+Louisiana. It is a good principle in national politics, to take an ell
+where an inch is given, especially when the giver is too weak to resist
+the encroachment--and it has been so often practised upon, that there is
+scarcely a nation on earth that can consistently gainsay it. The annexation
+fever is up now, and I suggest the propriety of taking all we intend to, or
+all we want, at a sweep--lest the people should grow conscientious, and
+conclude to respect the rights of their weaker neighbors.
+
+But, to be serious, let us take warning from the past, and learn to be
+just, and moderate, in order that we may be prosperous and happy. The
+epitaph of more than one of the republics of antiquity, might be written
+thus--_ruit sua mole_.
+
+Much as has been said, and that with great justice and propriety, of the
+delightful climate of Cuba, it is subject to no inconsiderable changes, and
+the invalid, who resorts thither in quest of health, must be on his guard
+against those changes. The "wet northers," that sometimes sweep down upon
+the coast, are often quite too severe for a delicate constitution to bear;
+and a retreat to the interior becomes necessary. During the prevalence of
+these winds, the southern side of the island is the favorite resort.
+Fortunately, these chilly visitors are few and far between, seldom
+continuing more than three or four days, with as many hours of rain. In the
+absence of these, the climate is as perfect as heart can desire,
+resembling, for the most part, that of the south of France.
+
+Notwithstanding the large tracts of cultivated plantations and farms, which
+make this beautiful island a perfect garden, it has extensive forests of
+great beauty and value. The palm, whether found in clusters or alone, is
+always a magnificent tree, and is useful for a variety of purposes--its
+trunk for building, its leaves for thatching, and several kinds of
+convenient manufactures, and its seeds for food. Mahogany abounds in some
+parts, and other kinds of hard wood suitable for ship building, a business
+which has been carried on very extensively in the island. The vine attains
+to a luxuriant growth, so as often to destroy the largest trees in its
+parasitical embrace. The orange and the pine-apple, both of a delicious
+flavor, abound on all sides. Indian corn, the sweet potatoe, rice, and a
+great variety of other important edibles are extensively cultivated, giving
+wealth to some, and sustenance to thousands.
+
+The great staples of Cuba, however, and the principle sources of her
+immense wealth, are sugar and coffee. These are produced in the greatest
+abundance. The annual exports amount to about six hundred and fifty
+millions pounds of sugar, and eighty-four millions of coffee. The exports
+of tobacco are about ten millions pounds in the leaf, besides three hundred
+and ten millions of manufactured cigars. There are also large exports of
+molasses, honey, wax, etc.
+
+There are copper mines of great value in the south east part of the island,
+in the neighborhood of Santiago. They were worked a long time, but for some
+reason were abandoned for more than a century. More recently they have been
+re-opened, and are now esteemed the richest copper mines in the world. They
+are worked principally by an English company, and the ore is sent to
+England to be smelted. The annual amount is not far from a million and a
+half of quintals.
+
+The whole population of Cuba is estimated at a little over a million,
+420,000 whites, 440,000 slaves, and 150,000 free colored persons. The
+annual revenue of the island, obtained from heavy taxes upon the sales of
+every species of property, and from duties export as well as import, is
+twelve millions of dollars. This is all drawn from its 420,000 whites,
+averaging nearly thirty dollars a head. Of this amount, but very little is
+expended in the island, except for the purpose of holding the people in
+subjection. Four millions go into the coffers of the mother country.
+
+The island of Cuba is nearly eight hundred miles in length, from east to
+west, varying in breadth from twenty-five to one hundred and thirty miles.
+Its coast is very irregular, deeply indented with bays and inlets, and
+surrounded with numerous islands and reefs, making a difficult and
+dangerous navigation. It has many excellent harbors, that of Havana being,
+as has already been said, one of the best in the world. A range of
+mountains, rising into the region of perpetual barrenness, traverses the
+entire length of the island, dividing it into two unequal parts, the area
+of the southern portion being rather the larger of the two. There are also
+many other isolated mountain peaks and lofty hills, in different parts of
+the island, some of them beautifully wooded to their very summits, and
+others craggy, barren, precipitious, and full of dark caverns and frightful
+ravines.
+
+The principal places, after Havana, are Matanzas, Cardenas, Puerto del
+Principe, Santiago, St. Salvador, Trinidad, and Espiritu Santo. Besides
+these there are some half a dozen smaller cities, twelve considerable
+towns, and about two hundred villages. The principal seaports are all
+strongly fortified.
+
+Matanzas is situated on the northern shore, about sixty miles east of the
+capital. It contains, including its suburbs, about twenty thousand
+inhabitants, of whom rather more than half are whites, and about one sixth
+are free blacks. It commands the resources of a rich and extensive valley,
+and its exports of coffee, sugar, and molasses, are very large. The bay of
+Matanzas is deep and broad, and is defended by the castle of San Severino.
+The harbor at the head of this bay, is curiously protected against the
+swell of the sea, during the prevalence of the north-east winds, by a ledge
+of rocks extending nearly across it, leaving a narrow channel on each side,
+for the admission of vessels. The city is built upon a low point of land
+between two small rivers, which empty themselves into the bay, and from
+which so heavy a deposit of mud has been made, as materially to lessen the
+capacity of the harbor. The anchorage ground for vessels is, consequently,
+about half a mile from the shore, and cargoes are discharged and received
+by means of lighters.
+
+Cardenas is comparatively a new place, the first settlement having been
+made less than twenty years ago. It now numbers about two thousand
+inhabitants. It is finely situated at the head of a beautiful bay, fifty
+miles eastward of Matanzas. This bay was once a famous resort for pirates,
+who, secure from observation, or winked at by the well-feed officials,
+brought in the vessels they had seized, drove them ashore on the rocks, and
+then claimed their cargoes as wreckers, the murdered crews not being able
+to claim even a salvage for their rightful owners. In the exhibition of
+scenes like this, the bay of Cardenas was not alone, or singular. Many an
+over-hanging cliff, and dark inlet of that blood-stained shore, could tell
+a similar tale.
+
+The rail-road from this place to Bemba, eighteen miles distant, passes
+through a beautiful tract of country, and affords to the traveller a view
+of some of the most picturesque scenery that is to be found in the island.
+
+Owing to its fine harbor, and its facilities of communication with the rich
+tract of country lying behind it, this place will become a formidable rival
+to Matanzas, when its port shall be thrown open to foreign commerce. At
+present, there is no custom house here, and all the produce is transported
+in lighters to Matanzas or Havana, to be sold. It has not depth of water
+for the largest class of vessels, but the greater part of those usually
+employed in the West India trade, can be well accommodated.
+
+Puerto del Principe, situated in the interior of the island, about midway
+between its northern and southern shores, and more than four hundred miles
+eastward from Havana, contains a population of twenty-four
+thousand--fourteen thousand being whites, and about six thousand slaves.
+This district is celebrated for the excellent flavor of its cigars. It is a
+place of considerable importance, and the residence of a
+lieutenant-governor.
+
+Santiago de Cuba, is on the southern coast, about one hundred miles from
+the eastern extremity of the island, and nearly seven hundred south-east of
+Havana. Its population is twenty-five thousand, of whom nearly ten thousand
+are whites, and eight thousand slaves. It has a fine, capacious harbor,
+scarcely second to that of Havana, and strongly defended by a castle, and
+several inferior batteries. It has a large trade in sugar, coffee, and
+molasses. About twelve miles from the city, westward, is the town of
+Santiago del Prade, near which the rich copper mines, before mentioned, are
+situated, giving employment in one way or another, to nearly all of its two
+thousand inhabitants.
+
+Bayamo, or St. Salvador,--sixty miles west of Santiago, numbers nearly ten
+thousand souls. Manzanilla, thirty miles south from this, has three
+thousand.
+
+Trinidad de Cuba, two hundred miles further west, and about two hundred and
+fifty from Havana, has a population of thirteen thousand, of whom six
+thousand are whites, and four thousand five hundred, free colored.
+
+Espiritu Santo, thirty-five miles eastward from Trinidad, has less than ten
+thousand inhabitants in the city, and thirty-four thousand in the whole
+district, of whom twenty-two thousand are whites, a very unusual proportion
+in these islands.
+
+In their general features, in the style of the buildings, in the character
+of the people, their occupations, modes of living, customs of society,
+etc., etc., all these places bear a close resemblance to each other,
+varying only in location, and the lay of the land, and the forms of the
+rivers and bays about them.
+
+The government of Cuba is a military despotism, whose edicts are enforced
+by an armed body of more than twelve thousand soldiers. The Captain General
+is appointed by the crown of Spain, and is a kind of vice-roy, exercising
+the functions of commander-in-chief of the army, Governor of the western
+province of the island, President of the provincial assembly, etc. The
+present incumbent, Don Leopold O'Donnell, enjoys a great share of
+popularity. He holds no civil jurisdiction over the eastern province, of
+which Santiago is the capital. The governor of that province is entirely
+independent of the Captain General, except in military matters, and is
+amenable only to the court of Madrid.
+
+The Intendente, Count Villa Nueva, recently re-instated in that office, is
+said to be very desirous to ameliorate the burdens of the planting
+interest; and in his efforts to secure this result, he has evinced the good
+sense and prudence, which are usually followed with success. His integrity
+and talents, together with the fact that he is the only "native" who was
+ever exalted to high official rank, have secured for him the unbounded
+confidence and affection of the people. His power is distinct from that of
+the Governor, and is in no way dependent upon it. He exercises certain
+legal rights, such as the entire control of the imports and exports, and
+is, in fact, the sole manager of all the financial concerns of the colony.
+By this arrangement, the purse and the sword are entirely separated, and
+the dangers to be apprehended from the abuse of power, greatly diminished.
+
+No attempt to illustrate the position, resources, and character of Cuba, at
+the present time, would do justice to its subject, or to the feelings of
+its author, without an honorable and grateful mention of the name of Tacon.
+And no one who has visited the island, or who feels any interest in its
+welfare, or any regard for the lives and fortunes of those who hold
+commercial intercourse with its inhabitants, can withhold from the memory
+of that truly great and good man, the well-earned tribute of admiration
+and gratitude. He was a rare example of wisdom and benevolence, firmness
+and moderation, and seems to have been raised up by Providence, and
+qualified for the peculiar exigency of his time. He has, no doubt, been
+eminently useful in other stations in his native land; else he would never
+have been known to his monarch, as fitted for the difficult task assigned
+him here. But, if he had never acted any other part on the stage of
+life--if the term of his public and private usefulness had been limited to
+the brief period of his chief magistracy in Cuba, he had won a fame nobler
+than that of princes, fairer, worthier, and more enduring than that of the
+proudest conquerors earth ever saw. The memorial of such a man can never be
+found in marble, or in epitaph. It is written in the prosperity of a
+people, and of the nations with whom they hold commercial intercourse. It
+lives, and should for ever live, in the gratitude, admiration and reverence
+of mankind.
+
+When General Tacon was appointed Governor General of Cuba, Havana was
+literally a den of thieves, a nursery of the foulest crimes, a school where
+the blackest conceptions of which the human heart is capable, and the most
+diabolical inventions of mischief, were not only seen to escape punishment,
+but were officially tolerated and encouraged. A spirit of venality and
+almost incredible corruption prevailed in the judicial and financial
+departments; and the subaltern magistrates, if not actual partakers, by
+receiving their share of the booty, connived at every variety of robbery
+and plunder. No natural or civil rights were regarded--no one's life or
+property was held sacred. Murders in the open street, and under the broad
+blaze of a sunlit sky, were fearlessly committed; slaves and pirates
+unblushingly perambulated the streets, discussing their fiendish
+machinations, and perpetrating deeds of darkness, over which humanity
+should weep. Specie transported from one part of the city to another,
+required the protection of an armed force. Such was the aspect, and such
+the lamentable state of affairs, both public and private, in Havana, at the
+time that Tacon came into power. The measures adopted by him for the
+introduction of order and the purification of the whole political system,
+were no less wise and judicious, than his fearlessness, promptness and
+perserverance in enforcing them, were deserving of the highest
+commendation. His labors were truly Herculean, and his success in cleansing
+this Augean stable most signal.
+
+During his elevation to power, which continued four years, the aspect of
+things in Havana was completely changed. Order supplanted confusion, and
+wholesome authority succeeded to anarchy and misrule. Individuals became
+secure in the possession of life and property; strangers and foreigners no
+longer felt themselves surrounded by lawless bandits, and compelled, by the
+absence of law, order and discipline, to take the law into their own hands,
+or abandon, at the first appearance of violence, the protection of their
+rights, property and life. The man who formerly walked abroad in Havana,
+was forced to feel, and to act accordingly: that "his hand was against
+every man, and every man's against him."
+
+This Solon of Cuba was the originator and promoter of most of the principal
+improvements which now adorn the city and surrounding country, many of
+which bear his name. This bloodless revolution was accomplished without any
+additional public expense or burdensome tax upon the people, by a wise
+administration and righteous application of the ordinary resources of the
+government. Such, and more, were the blessings bestowed upon Cuba by Tacon.
+Such are the glorious results of the public career of one whose highest
+ambition and whose proudest aim seemed to be, the elevation of his
+countrymen--the welfare, security and happiness of mankind. As we honor and
+revere the names of Washington and La Fayette, so should the dwellers on
+that island ever love and cherish the name of the illustrious Tacon. At the
+expiration of four years, he voluntarily retired to Spain, and was
+succeeded in the government by General Espeleta. "May the shadow of Tacon
+never be less;" or, as they say in his own native tongue, "_viva ustéd
+múchos âños_."
+
+The commerce of Cuba is with the world; yet its importance as a trading
+mart is chiefly realized by its nearest neighbor, the United States. Its
+annual imports and exports, which nearly balance each other, amount to
+about twenty-five millions of dollars each. Of the imports, during the last
+year, which may be taken as a fair average, it received five millions two
+hundred and forty thousand dollars, or more than one-fifth, from the United
+States. Of the exports, during the same period, we received nine millions
+nine hundred and thirty thousand dollars, within a fraction of two-fifths.
+In addition to this, its commerce with the different ports of Europe, South
+America, and other parts of the world, furnished profitable freights to a
+large number of our carrying ships, and employment to our hardy seamen. We
+are in duty bound, therefore, to regard this miniature continent, hanging
+on our southern border, with a favorable eye, and to cultivate with it the
+most neighborly relations.
+
+It is true, we have had some cause of complaint in our intercourse
+hitherto, and we may not soon look for its entire removal. The imposts upon
+our productions are severe and disproportionate, the port-charges onerous,
+and the incidental exactions unreasonable and vexatious. We are often
+subjected to frivolous delays, and unjust impositions, in the adjustment of
+difficulties at the custom house, and in the recovery of debts in the
+courts of law. We have also, in times past, been severe sufferers from the
+depredations of well known and almost licensed pirates, who, in open day,
+and under the walls of the castle, have plundered our property, and
+butchered our seamen. Still, with all the offsets which the most ingenious
+grumbler could array, we owe much to the "Queen of the Antilles," and
+_might_ have more occasion for regret, than for gratulation, should she
+ever be transferred to the crown of England, or annexed to the territories
+of the United States. If her people were prepared for self-government--if
+the incongruous elements of society there could, by any possibility,
+amalgamate and harmonize, the establishment of an independent government
+would doubtless promote her own happiness, and benefit us and the world.
+The luxuriant plains, and valleys, and hill-sides of this beautiful isle,
+have capacities amply sufficient to sustain a population ten times as large
+as that which it now contains. Burdened, and almost crashed under the
+weight of their own taxes, ruled with a rod of iron, and held in almost
+slavish subjection by the bristling bayonets of a mercenary foreign
+soldiery, who, under the pretence of defending them from invasion or
+insurrection, eat out their substance, and rivet their chains--the million
+who now reside there, with the exception of a few overgrown estates among
+the planters and merchants, find, for the most part, a miserable
+subsistence. There is probably no class of people in any portion of the
+United States, so miserably poor and degraded, as the mass of the Monteros
+and free blacks of Cuba. Give them a fostering government, and free
+institutions, educate them, make men of them, and throw wide open to all
+the avenues to comfort, wealth and distinction--and there is no spot on the
+face of the globe that would sustain a denser population than this.
+
+The exports from the United States to Cuba consist of lumber of various
+kinds, codfish, rice, bacon, lard, candles, butter, cheese. The first two
+articles are almost exclusively from the Northern States, the third from
+the Southern, the remainder from all. The imports hence are of all the
+productions of the island.
+
+The cause of education in this lovely land is lamentably low. In the large
+cities and towns, respectable provision is made for the wants of the young
+in this respect. The Royal University at Havana, embracing among its
+advantages, schools of medicine and law, offers very considerable
+facilities to the industrious student. There are also several other lesser
+institutions in the city, with schools, public and private, for teaching
+the elementary branches of a common education. Some of these are tolerably
+well sustained; but the range they afford, and the talent they command, is
+comparatively so limited, that most of those who are able to bear the
+expense, prefer sending their sons to the United States or Europe, to
+complete their education.
+
+No other place in the island is so well provided in this respect as the
+capital. Arrangements are made, in most of the towns and interior
+districts, for gratuitous instruction. In some cases, this provision is
+wholly inadequate. In others, it is regarded with indifference by the class
+for whose benefit it is designed. Their abject poverty and destitution of
+the common comforts of life, seems to cramp all their energies, and
+dishearten them from any attempt to better the condition of their children.
+And, indeed, under their present civil and political institutions, but few
+advances could be made, even if the people were ambitious to improve. For
+the government, like all despotisms, is jealous of the intelligence of its
+subjects, well knowing that a reading, thinking people must and will be
+free.
+
+Cuba was the fifth of the great discoveries of Columbus, and by far the
+most important of the islands he visited. San Salvador, Conception, Exuma
+and Isabella, which he had already seen and named, were comparatively small
+and of little note, though so rich and beautiful, that they seemed to the
+delighted imagination of the discoverer, the archipelago of Paradise, or
+the "islands of the blest." It is very remarkable, that, though he skirted
+the whole of the southern, and more than half the northern coast of Cuba,
+following its windings and indentations more than twelve hundred miles,
+till he was fully convinced that it was a part of a great continent, and
+not an island; yet he made no attempt to occupy it, or to plant a colony
+there. It was not even visited during his life-time, and he died in the
+full conviction that it was not an island. He gave it the name of Juana, in
+honor of the young prince John, heir to the crowns of Castile and Leon. It
+afterwards received the name of Fernandina, by order of the king in whose
+name it was occupied and held. But the original designation of the natives
+finally prevailed over both the Spanish ones, which were long since laid
+aside. It is understood to be derived from the Indian name of a tree, which
+abounded in the island.
+
+In 1511, about five years after the death of Columbus, his son and
+successor, Diego, in the hope of obtaining large quantities of gold, which
+was then growing scarce in Hispaniola, sent Don Diego Velasquez, an
+experienced and able commander, of high rank and fortune, to take
+possession of Cuba. Panfilo de Narvaez was the second in command in this
+expedition. The names of both these knights are conspicuous in the
+subsequent history of Spanish discovery and conquest, in the islands, and
+on the continent, but more especially in their relation to Cortes, the
+great conqueror of Mexico.
+
+The inhabitants of Cuba, like those of Hispaniola, and some of the other
+islands, were a peaceful effeminate race, having no knowledge of the arts
+of war, and fearing and reverencing the Spaniards as a superior race of
+beings descended from above. They submitted, without opposition, to the
+yoke imposed upon them. It was for the most part, a bloodless conquest,
+yielding few laurels to the proud spirits who conducted it, but rich in
+the spoils of spiritual warfare to the kind-hearted and devoted Las Casas,
+subsequently Bishop of Chiapa, who accompanied the army in all its marches,
+the messenger of peace and salvation to the subjugated Indians. According
+to the record of this good father, the indefatigable missionary of the
+cross, only one chief residing on the eastern part of the island, offered
+any resistance to the invaders; and _he_ was not a native, but an emigrant
+from Hispaniola, whence he had recently escaped, with a few followers, from
+the cruel oppression of their new masters, to find repose on the peaceful
+shores of Cuba. Alarmed and excited by the appearance of the Spanish ships
+approaching his new found retreat, Hatuey called his men together, and in
+an eloquent and animated speech, urged them to a desperate resistance, in
+defence of their homes and their liberty. With scornful irony, he assured
+them that they would not be able successfully to defend themselves, if they
+did not first propitiate the god of their their enemies. "Behold him here,"
+said he, pointing to a vessel filled with gold, "behold the mighty
+divinity, whom the white man adores, in whose service he ravages our
+country, enslaves us, our wives and our children, and destroys our lives at
+his pleasure. Behold the god of your cruel enemies, and invoke his aid to
+resist them." After some slight ceremonies of invocation, in imitation of
+the rites of Christian worship, which they had learned from their
+oppressors, they cast the gold into the sea, that the Spaniards might not
+quarrel about it, and prepared for their defence. They fought desperately,
+resolved rather to die in battle, than submit to the cruel domination of
+the invaders. They were nearly all destroyed. The Cacique Hatuey was taken
+prisoner, and condemned to be burned alive, in order to strike terror into
+the minds of the other chiefs and their people. In vain did the benevolent
+missionary protest against the cruel, unchristian sacrifice. He labored
+diligently to convert the poor cacique to the Christian faith, urging him
+most affectionately to receive baptism, as the indispensable requisite for
+admission to heaven. His reply is one of the most eloquent and bitterly
+taunting invectives on record. Enquiring if the white men would go to
+heaven, and being answered in the affirmative, he replied--"then I will not
+be a christian, for I would not willingly go where I should find men so
+cruel." He then met his death with heroic fortitude, or rather with that
+stoical indifference, which is a common characteristic of the aborigines of
+America; preferring even a death of torture to a life of servitude,
+especially under the hated Spaniards, who had shown themselves as incapable
+of gratitude, as they were destitute of pity, and the most common
+principles of justice.
+
+The army met with no further opposition. The whole island submitted quietly
+to their sway, and the unresisting inhabitants toiled, and died, and wasted
+away under the withering hand of oppression. It is probable, from all
+accounts, that the population, at the time of the conquest, was nearly, if
+not quite as great, as it is at the present time; though some of the
+Spanish chroniclers, to cover the cruelty of so dreadful a sacrifice,
+greatly reduce the estimate. Whatever were their numbers, however, they
+disappeared like flowers before the chilling blasts of winter. Unaccustomed
+to any kind of labor, they fainted under the heavy exactions of their
+cruel and avaricious task-masters. Diseases, hitherto unknown among them,
+were introduced by their intercourse with the strangers; and, in a few
+years, their fair and beautiful inheritance was depopulated, and left to
+the undisputed possession of the merciless intruders.
+
+In four years after the subjugation, Velasques had laid the foundation of
+seven cities, the sites of which were so well selected, that they still
+remain the principal places in the colony, with the exception of Havana,
+which was originally located on the southern shore, near Batabano, but
+afterwards abandoned on account of its supposed unhealthiness. Its present
+site, then called the port of Carenas, was selected and occupied in 1519.
+
+So much has been said of the impregnable strength of Havana, that I shall
+venture, at some risk of repetition, as well of being out of place with my
+remarks, to say a few words more on that point. The position of the Moro,
+the Cabañas, and the fortress on the opposite eminence, has been
+sufficiently illustrated. I know not that any thing could be added to these
+fortifications, to make them more perfect, in any respect, than they are.
+They confer upon Havana a just claim to be called, as it has been, "The
+Gibraltar of America." In effecting this, nature has combined with art, in
+a beautiful and masterly manner, so that the stranger is struck, at the
+first glance, with the immense strength of the place, and the thought of
+surprising or storming it, would seem to be little short of madness.
+
+But let it be remembered that the _impregnable_ Gibraltar was successfully
+attacked, and is now in possession of the conquerors. The _inaccessible_
+heights of Abraham were scaled in a night, and Quebec still remains to show
+what seeming impossibilities courage and skill united can achieve.
+
+With the exception of the Moro, all the great fortifications at Havana, are
+of comparatively recent construction. They have been erected since the
+memorable seige of 1762, when, after one of the most desperate and
+sanguinary conflicts on record, the English fleet and army succeeded in
+capturing the city. The Spaniards say, that the final and successful sortie
+was made in the afternoon, while their generals was taking their
+_siesta_--a cover for the shame of defeat, about as transparent as that of
+the Roman sentinels at the tomb of Christ, whom the wily priests induced to
+declare, that "his disciples stole him away while they slept." There is no
+question, however, that, notwithstanding the great strength of this place,
+and its entire safety from any attack by sea, it could be assailed with
+effect, by the landing of efficient forces in the rear, in the same manner
+as these other places, just mentioned, were taken, and as the French have
+recently succeeded in capturing Algiers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM HAVANA.--THE GULF OF MEXICO.--ARRIVAL AT VERA CRUZ.
+
+ The Steamer Dee.--Running down the coast.--Beautiful
+ scenery.--Associations awakened by it.--Columbus.--The
+ scenes of his glorious achievements.--The island
+ groups.--The shores of the continent.--"The Columbian
+ sea."--Disappointments and sufferings, the common
+ inheritance of genius.--Cervantes, Hylander, Camoens,
+ Tasso.--These waters rich in historical
+ incidents.--Revolutions.--Arrival at Vera Cruz.--The Peak of
+ Orizaba.--Description of Vera Cruz.--Churches.--The
+ Port.--San Juan de Ulloa.--Scarcity of Water.--The
+ suburbs.--Population.--Yellow Fever.
+
+
+The British Royal mail steamer Dee, arriving at Havana on one of her
+regular circuits, presented a very favorable opportunity to gratify a
+disposition for change. Accordingly, on the 10th of February, I embarked on
+board of her, with the intention of touching at Vera Cruz, and thence
+proceeding to Tampico, and such other interesting points as my time and
+health would allow.
+
+The "Dee" is one of a Line of Steamers, built by a company in London, to
+carry the mails, which are placed in charge of an officer, acting under the
+direction of the British government. This company receives from the
+government, two hundred and fifty thousand pounds annually. The vessels
+average about one thousand tons each, and are so built as to be readily
+altered into men-of-war, should they be required to strengthen the English
+naval power. The Dee consumes about thirty-five tons of coal per day. Her
+average speed, however, under the most favorable circumstances, does not
+exceed eight and a half knots an hour. She is commanded by a sailing master
+of the British navy, whose salary is about fifteen hundred dollars per
+annum. She has been in service only two years, but has the appearance of
+being a much older vessel; a circumstance caused no doubt by the
+"retrenchments" consequent upon the unlimited extravagance of the company's
+first outfit. Her so-called "accommodations" were very inferior, and the
+table was miserably furnished, but the service of plate, emblazoned with
+heraldic designs, was, unquestionably, beautiful.
+
+We steamed out of the harbor at sunrise, the ever wakeful Moro looking
+sternly down upon us as we passed under its frowning battlements; and,
+being favored with delightful weather, skirted the coast as far as we
+could, and took our departure from Cape Antonio.
+
+Nothing can exceed the beauty and sublimity of the natural scenery thus
+presented to our view, between Havana and the point of the Cape. The broad
+rich plains, the gentle slopes, the luxuriant swells, the hills clothed
+with verdure to their very crowns, the lofty mountains with their abrupt
+and craggy prominences and ever changing forms, make up a landscape of the
+richest and rarest kind, beautiful in all its parts, and exceedingly
+picturesque in its general effect. The hills, with highly cultivated
+plantations, extending from the lovely valleys below, in beautiful order
+and luxuriance, far up towards their forest-crowned summits, looked green
+and inviting, as if full of cool grottos and shady retreats; while the
+far-off mountains where
+
+ "Distance lent enchantment to the view,"
+
+seemed traversed with dark ravines and gloomy caverns, fit abodes for those
+hordes of merciless banditti, whose predatory achievements have given to
+the shores and mountain passes of Cuba, an unenviable pre-eminence in
+outlawry.
+
+The motion of our oaken leviathan, sweeping heavily along through the quiet
+sea, created a long, low swell, which, like a miniature tide, rose gently
+upon the resounding shore, washing its moss-covered bank, and momentarily
+disturbing the echoes that lingered in its voiceless caves. It was painful
+to feel that I was leaving those beautiful shores, never, in all
+probability, to revisit them. A gloomy feeling took possession of my soul,
+as if parting again, and for ever, from the shores of my early home. Then
+came up, thronging upon the memory and the fancy, a multitude of historical
+associations, suggested by the land before me, and the sea on whose bosom I
+was borne--associations of the most thrilling and painful interest, and yet
+so wonderfully arrayed in the gorgeous drapery of romance, that I would
+not, if I could, dismiss them.
+
+Albeit, then, I may be in imminent danger of running into vain repetitions,
+in giving indulgence to the melancholy humor of the hour, I cannot refrain
+from following out, in this place, where a clear sky and an open sea leave
+me no better employment, some of those reflections, which, if indulged in
+at all, might, perhaps, with equal appropriateness have found a place in
+one of the previous chapters. With Cuba, one of the earliest, and the most
+important of the great discoveries of Columbus, behind me--the shores of
+Central America, the scene of his last and greatest labors in the cause of
+science, before me--and the wide expanse of sea, which witnessed all his
+toils, and sufferings, around me on every side--how could I do otherwise
+than recall to mind all that he had accomplished, and all that he had
+endured, in this region of his wonderful adventures! Here was the grand
+arena of his more than heroic victories, the theatre of his proud triumph
+over the two great obstacles, which, in all ages have opposed the march of
+mind--the obstinate bigotry of the ignorant, and the still more obstinate
+ignorance of the learned.
+
+Behind me, far away toward the rising sun, was the little island of San
+Salvador, where the New World, in all its elysian beauty, its virgin
+loveliness, burst upon his view. Conception, Fernandina, and Isabella, the
+bright enchanting beacons rising out of the bosom of the deep, to guide his
+eager prow to Cuba, the "Queen of the Antilles," were there too, slumbering
+on the outer verge of the coral beds of the Bahamas. Nearer, and full in
+view, its mountain peaks towering to the skies, and stretching its long arm
+nearly three hundred leagues away toward the south-east, lay the beautiful
+island I had just left, the richest jewel of the ocean, the brightest gem
+in the crown of Spain. Farther on in the same direction, and dimly descried
+from the eastern promontories of Cuba, were the lofty peaks of St.
+Domingo, beautifully flanked by Porto Rico on the right, and Jamaica on the
+left. Then, farther still, sweeping in a graceful curve toward the
+outermost angle of the Southern continent, and completing the emerald
+chain, which nature has so beautifully thrown across the broad chasm that
+divides the eastern shores of the two Americas, lay the windward cluster of
+the Caribbean islands, terminating with Trinidad, in the very bosom of the
+Gulf of Paria. Returning westward, along the coast of Paria, where Columbus
+first actually saw the continent, and traversing the whole extent of the
+Caribbean Sea, you might reach the shores of Honduras, where he again
+touched the shores of the continent, and finished, amid the infirmities of
+age, and the sufferings consequent upon a life of toil, hardship and
+exposure, his great achievement of discovery, his career of usefulness and
+glory.
+
+Coming northward, toward the point whither we were then tending, and
+rounding Cape Catoche into the Gulf of Mexico, you would behold the true
+Eldorado which they all sought for, and which the brave Cortes afterwards
+found--the golden mountains and golden cities of Anahuac. Northward still,
+some two hundred leagues, the "Father of rivers" pours his mighty current
+into the bosom of the Gulf, after watering and draining the richest and
+broadest valleys in the world, and linking together, by its various and
+extended branches, the mighty fraternity of republics, spread over the vast
+territories of the North.
+
+I pity the man, whoever he may be, and of whatever nation, who can visit
+these islands, or traverse these seas, for the first time, without feeling
+as if he were treading on enchanted ground. Every country, every sea has
+its peculiar history, and its peculiar associations. There is much to
+interest the heart, and inflame the imagination in the dark legends of the
+Indian archipelago--in the classic memories and time-hallowed monuments of
+the "Isles of Greece," and of the shores and bays, the mountains and
+streams of all the countries bordering on the Mediterranean--in the
+rock-bound coast of the North Sea--in the basaltic columns and gigantic
+caverns of the Emerald Isle;--but they do not, in my view, either or all of
+them, surpass, in the deep interest and moral grandeur of the associations
+they awaken, the shores that then surrounded me--the American Isthmus, and
+the American archipelago.
+
+The American archipelago!--the Mediterranean of the Western World, with its
+beautiful clusters of magnificent islands--why not call it, as Bradford
+long ago suggested, THE COLUMBIAN SEA? Surely, if the Florentine merchant
+has been permitted to rob the great Genoese discoverer of the honor of
+conferring his own illustrious name upon the two vast continents, which his
+genius and perseverance brought to light, while the whole world has quietly
+sanctioned the larceny--we, who know the equity of his claims, and feel how
+shamefully he has been abused, might at least do him the lardy justice to
+affix his name, in perpetuo, to this sea, which, by universal
+acknowledgment, he was the first to traverse and explore--the scene of his
+glorious triumph over the narrow and ignorant prejudices of his day, as
+well as of his romantic adventures, toils and sufferings.
+
+What must have been the emotions of Columbus when he first traversed these
+waters, and beheld these lovely islands! For, even now, with the mind
+already prepared by the full and elaborate descriptions of geographers and
+travellers, they are beheld by the voyager, for the first time, with
+sensations of surprise and delight. The objects of wonder with which he and
+his crew were surrounded--the variation of the compass, the regularity of
+the winds, and other phenomena, of the existence of which they could not
+possibly have been apprised, must have been truly exciting. Think of his
+astonishment on landing, to find myriads of people, disposed to regard him
+and his adventurous crew, as beings of a superior order, whom they were
+almost ready to adore. And then, pray that the veil of oblivion may be
+thrown over the fiendish requital which, in after years, succeeded this
+hospitable reception.
+
+It is any thing but agreeable to a generous heart, to witness or
+contemplate the strivings of a noble mind, with the cares and anxieties of
+life, having some magnificent project in view, but hindered from carrying
+it forward, by the stern demand of a starving household, or the want of
+that _golden_ lever, which, with or without a place to stand upon, has
+power to move the world. With but few exceptions, it has ever been the
+case, that men of genius have struggled with adversity,--
+
+ Have felt the influence of malignant star,
+ And waged with fortune an eternal war.
+
+Fortune seldom smiles upon the sons of science. Rarely, indeed, does she
+condescend to become the companion of genius. It was not until Columbus had
+touched the master passion of his royal patrons, that he could induce them
+to grant him assistance. When he had convinced the king of the great
+pecuniary advantage to be derived to the crown from his enterprise, and the
+queen of the vast accessions to the holy church, in bringing new
+territories under her sway, and converting nations of heathen to the
+Christian faith,--then, and not till then, did they consent to favor his
+expedition. Absorbed with their one idea of planting the standards of
+Castile and of the Cross on the marble palaces of the Alhambra, they had no
+time to consider, no treasure to sustain, such magnificent schemes of
+discovery. Should Columbus be succored, when Cervantes, suffered and
+hungered for bread? Was it not the cold treatment Cervantes received, that
+wrung from his subdued spirit the humiliating complaint, that "the greatest
+advantage which princes possess above other men, is that of being attended
+by servants as great as themselves?" But why should we seek out, dwell
+upon, and hold up to the execration of the world, these instances of royal
+littleness, injustice, and ingratitude, when the world is, and always has
+been, full of such exhibitions of human nature? Was not Hylander compelled
+to sell his notes on Dion Casseus for a _dinner_? Did not Camoens, the
+solitary pride of Portugal,--he who after his death was honored by the
+appellation of "_the great_,"--beg for bread? Has not a Tasso from the
+depths of his poverty, besought his cat to assist him with the lustre of
+her eyes, that he might pen his immortal verse? Yes,--and one simple story
+would tell the fate of a Homer, Ariosto, Dryden, Spenser, Le Sage, Milton,
+Sydenham, and a mighty host of others, who, after having spent their lives
+in the cause of letters, and of human advancement and liberty, were
+neglected by their countrymen, and suffered to die in obscurity, if not in
+poverty and want!
+
+The Columbian Sea! divided by the projecting peninsulas of Yucatan and
+Florida, and the far-stretching walls of Cuba and Hispaniola, into two
+great sections, the Caribbean Sea, and the Gulf of Mexico--how full of
+interest, historical and romantic, how curious, how wonderful in many of
+the phenomena it exhibits! Here is the inexhaustible fountain head of that
+inexplicable mystery of nature, the Gulf Stream, which, without any visible
+adequate supply, throws its mighty current of calid water, thousands of
+miles across the cold Atlantic. Here European civilization, and European
+depotism first planted its foot in the elysian fields of the west. Here the
+dreadful work of subjugation, and extermination commenced a work, which, in
+three brief centuries, under the banners, too, of the Prince of Peace, and
+in the name of Christianity, has blotted from the face of the earth a
+mighty family of populous nations, some of them far advanced in
+civilization and refinement, leaving only here and there a scattered and
+almost exhausted tribe, bending under the yoke of slavery, or flying before
+the continual encroachments of the white man.
+
+It is difficult to say to which quarter of this sea one should turn, in
+order to gather up the incidents and associations, which shall most deeply
+touch the heart, and excite the imagination. On the east, these beautiful,
+luxuriant islands, the first seen and visited, where the great, the noble,
+the generous-hearted discoverer was received as a god by the simple and
+hospitable natives, and afterwards calumniated, oppressed, deserted by his
+friends, and left by his envious foes to pine a whole year on the shores of
+Jamaica, with no shelter but the wreck of his last vessel--where too he was
+shamefully imprisoned, and then sent home in chains, deprived of his honors
+and his rights. On the west, the golden regions of Mexico, where the
+Montezumas reigned with a degree of splendor rivalling the most brilliant
+dynasties of the Old World--where civilization, and the arts of refinement,
+were enjoyed to a degree unknown to many of the most powerful nations of
+antiquity--where pyramids, temples, and palaces, whose extent and
+magnificence might have vied with those of Egypt and Syria, still remain in
+ruins to attest the departed glory of the Aztec races--and where the
+marvellous, the scarcely credible adventures of Cortes, and his little hand
+of brave invaders, brought desolation and wo on all that sunny region. On
+the south, the great continent, the scene of similar adventures--the
+theatre of oppression, of civil discord, of revolution, of a perpetual
+struggle for power, but, it may be hoped, ere long of republican liberty.
+On the north--what shall I say--the fairest and best portion of the wide
+earth--the home of liberty--the home of our fathers--in a word, which
+contains a depth of meaning that belongs to no other in any language--home!
+
+How wonderfully have these shores changed hands and masters, since the day
+when Columbus gave them all to Spain. What has she now left? The entire
+continent of South America, the golden regions of the Isthmus, the broad
+savannahs of Florida, and the boundless prairies of the great west, have
+all been wrested from her iron and oppressive rule. And, of all that rich
+cluster of islands, that lie along the eastern boundary of this great
+sea--only Cuba and Porto Rico now acknowledge her sway. How bitterly the
+wrongs she inflicted upon the hapless natives of these fair lands, have
+recoiled upon her own head, and upon the heads of all her representatives
+in the New World. Scarcely for one moment have they held any of their
+ill-gotten possessions in peace. Revolt and revolution have swept over them
+in quick succession, like the Sirocco of the desert, burying millions of
+merciless oppressors in the same graves with the millions of the oppressed.
+Anarchy, confusion, bloodshed, and civil discord and commotion, have been
+the lot of their inheritance. And even to this day, except in the islands
+above named, wherever the Spanish race remains in the ascendancy, the seat
+of its power is, as it were, the crater of a volcano, where society, no
+less than the earth, heaves and groans and trembles with the throes of
+inward convulsion. Look yonder, as we near the shores of Mexico. Clouds of
+dust and smoke--the thunders of artillery, the falling of successive
+dynasties, mingle with the terrible din of the earthquake, and the
+sulphureous belchings of subterraneous fires, and send up their angry
+shouts, and voices of wailing to the skies, till the whole civilized world
+is disturbed by their incessant broils. How long shall it be? When shall
+this land have rest? When shall the curse of war, which has been laid upon
+it for so many centuries, be revoked? Heaven speed the day.
+
+There are some features which have been noticed by voyagers, as peculiar to
+these waters. Whether they do not belong to inland seas, and to bays and
+gulfs generally, my personal observation does not enable me to determine.
+The color of the water is a less decided blue than that of the ocean. This
+phenomenon I am at a loss to explain, having always supposed that the color
+of the sea was only the reflection of the azure depths of the sky, and
+that, consequently, in the clear atmosphere, and the deep blue heavens, of
+the tropics, it would show a deeper tinge of cerulean than elsewhere.
+
+It is also remarked that there is seldom known here, the long equable
+swell, and gentle undulation, of the open ocean, but a short pitchy sea,
+which, in small craft, is very disagreeable, but is less noticeable in the
+larger class of vessels. The gulf is subject to periodical calms in the
+summer, and to violent gales from the north in the autumnal months. Of the
+Chapoté, an asphaltic ebullition on the surface of the sea, I shall speak
+more fully in another place, in connection with a similar phenomenon
+observed in the lakes of Mexico.
+
+We arrived at Vera Cruz on the 15th of February. The voyage proved
+agreeable--especially to those of our party who were subject to
+sea-sickness, and who could therefore well appreciate their entire freedom
+from the unpalatable, and often ludicrous effects produced by the
+unceremonious movement of the waves, when uncontrolled by the irresistible
+agency of steam. Indeed, we all felt strongly convinced, that steam
+navigation is the _ne plus ultra_ of travelling at sea.
+
+[Illustration: THE PEAK OF ORIZABA.]
+
+Long before we made the land, the grand and lofty peak of Orizaba, with its
+spotless mantle of eternal snow, rearing its hoary head seventeen thousand
+feet above us, presented itself to our view. The highest ranges of the
+Alleghanies, and the lofty summits of the Catskill, of my own country, were
+familiar to my boyish days--but, I was little prepared to behold a scene
+like this--a scene which caused the wonders of my childhood to dwindle
+almost into nothing. Art, with all her charms, may, and often does,
+disappoint us--but Nature, never. The conception of Him who laid the
+foundations of the mountains, cannot be approached even by the most
+aspiring flight of the imagination.
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA.]
+
+The first object that strikes the eye, in approaching Vera Cruz by water,
+is the Castle of San Juan de Ulloa, with the spires and domes of the
+churches peering up in the distance behind it. It stands alone, upon a
+small rocky island, on one side of the main entrance to the harbor, and
+only about half a mile from the wall of the city, and consequently has
+complete command of the port. The entrance on the other side, is so barred
+with broken reefs and ledges, that it can only be used by small craft in
+favorable weather.
+
+The Castle is circular, strongly built, and heavily mounted. Its principal
+strength, however, is in its position, inaccessible except by water, and
+its guns pointing every way, leave no side open to the attack of an enemy.
+It has never been reduced but once, and then its natural ally, the city,
+was against it. The sea was in the hands of its enemies, and all
+communication with the outer world was cut off. It held out bravely while
+its provisions lasted, and then yielded to famine, and not to arms. This
+was in 1829, during the last dying struggles of Spain to hold on to her
+revolted provinces in Central America.
+
+Our pilot brought us to anchor in the harbor, or roadstead, under the walls
+of this celebrated old castle, and within a few rods of the landing. An
+unexpected visit from a "Norther," gave me an opportunity which would not
+otherwise have presented itself, of paying my respects to the town.
+
+"Vera Cruz Triunfante," the Heroic City, as it is styled in all public
+documents, in consequence of the prowess of its citizens in taking the
+Castle San Juan de Ulloa, which, as above stated, surrendered from
+starvation, lies in a low, sandy shore; and, like all American Spanish
+towns, has few attractions for the stranger, either in its general
+appearance, or in the style of its architecture. The town is laid out with
+great regularity. The streets are broad and straight, at right angles with
+each other, and are well paved, which, unfortunately, is more than can be
+said of many of the paved cities in the United States. The side-walks are
+covered with cement, and are altogether superior to those of Havana. The
+houses are generally well constructed to suit the climate. Many of them are
+large, some three stories high, built in the old Spanish or Moorish style,
+and generally enclosing a square courtyard, with covered galleries. They
+have flat roofs, and parti-colored awnings, displaying beneath the latter a
+profusion of flowers.
+
+The best view of Tera Cruz is from the water. There are, within and outside
+the walls, seventeen church establishments, the domes or cupolas of which
+may be seen in approaching it from that direction, with quite an imposing
+effect. The port is easy of access, but very insecure, being open to the
+north, and consequently subject to the terrible "northers," which, in more
+senses than one, during the winter season, prove a scourge to this coast.
+It is well defended by a strong fort, situated on a rock of the island of
+St. Juan de Ulloa, about half a mile distant. The name of this island, and
+the castle upon it, are associated with some of the most terrible scenes of
+blood and cruelty, that have given to the many revolutionary struggles of
+that ill-fated country, an unenviable pre-eminence of horror.
+
+The form of the city is semi-circular, fronting the sea. It is situated on
+an arid plain, surrounded by sand hills, and is very badly supplied with
+water,--the chief reliance being upon rain collected in cisterns, which are
+often so poorly constructed as to answer but very little purpose. The chief
+resource of the lower classes, is the water of a ditch, so impure as
+frequently to occasion disease. An attempt was made, more than a century
+ago, to remedy this evil, by the construction of a stone aqueduct from the
+river Xamapa; but, unfortunately, after a very large sum had been expended
+on the work, it was discovered that the engineer who projected it, had
+committed a fatal mistake, in not ascertaining the true level, and the work
+was abandoned in despair.
+
+The outside of the city looks solitary and miserable enough. The ruins of
+deserted dwelling houses, dilapidated public edifices, neglected
+agriculture, and streets, once populous and busy, now still and overgrown
+with weeds, give an air of melancholy to the scene, which it is absolutely
+distressing to look upon, and which the drillings of the soldiery, and "all
+the pomp and circumstance" of warlike parade, were insufficient to dispel.
+
+The population of this place is now about six thousand. In 1842, two
+thousand died of black vomit, the greater portion of whom were the poor,
+half-enslaved Indians, brought from their healthy mountain homes, to serve
+as soldiers on the deadly coast. This dreadful scourge made its appearance
+on the continent of America, in 1699, where it was introduced by an English
+ship from the coast of Africa, loaded with slaves; inflicting upon the
+country, at the same instant, two of the greatest curses which the
+arch-enemy of our race could have devised. The infectious disease we cannot
+lay to the charge of England. It was one of those accidents which can only
+be referred to the mysterious visitations of that all-wise, but inscrutable
+providence, which rules over all the affairs of our little world. But for
+the other, and not less hideous evil, the introduction of slavery, that
+Government is directly responsible; and, however high and noble the
+principles of benevolence, by which the present race of Englishmen are
+actuated in their endeavors to procure universal emancipation, it ill
+becomes them to reproach us, or our fathers, for the existence of a curse
+among us, which their own government forced upon us, and their own fathers
+supplied and sustained, with a zeal and perseverance worthy of a better
+cause. Ages of penance and contrition, will not wipe out this dark stain
+from the British escutcheon.
+
+Vera Cruz is more subject to the yellow fever, than perhaps any other place
+on the coast. This is chiefly owing to the filthy ditch before spoken of,
+from which the lower classes are compelled to obtain a part of their supply
+of water, and to the pools of stagnant water, which abound among the sand
+hills in the vicinity. If these could be drained off, and the city supplied
+with wholesome water, there can be no doubt it would fare as well in the
+matter of health, as any other place on the coast, instead of being
+regarded, as it is now, by the Spanish physicians, as the source and
+fountain-head of yellow fever for the whole country. There is scarcely any
+season of the year exempt from its ravages, but it prevails most in the
+rainy season, particularly in September and October.
+
+The history of Vera Cruz, as a place of importance to the Spaniards,
+commences with the very first steps of the conquest. The name of San Juan
+do Ulloa, was given to the island where the Castle now stands, by Grijalva,
+on his pioneer visit to the place, in 1518, where he was so roughly handled
+by the "natives." Cortes, after touching at Cozumel, made a landing at
+this place, in 1519. He afterwards laid the foundation of a colony in the
+vicinity, at the mouth of the river Antigua. It was from this point that he
+set out on his adventurous march to the capital of the Aztec empire--an
+adventure seemingly the most rash and ill advised, but in its results, the
+most triumphant, in the annals of history.
+
+The present site of Vera Cruz, which was founded by Count de Monterey, near
+the close of the sixteenth century, and is sometimes, by way of
+distinction, called Vera Cruz Nueva, is not the same as that of the ancient
+city, planted by Cortes. That was situated fifteen miles to the north from
+the city of our day, and was called "La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz"--The
+rich town of the true cross. The harbor of the old town is far better than
+that of the new, which, in fact, is no harbor at all, but an open roadsted,
+exposed to every blast from the north. No good reason has been assigned for
+the removal. One historian has suggested that it was owing to the
+unhealthiness of the old town. If so, it is no mean illustration of the
+sagacity of the unfortunate fish, that, in attempting to escape his
+inevitable fate, "jumped out of the frying-pan into the fire."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+SANTA ANNA DE TAMAULIPAS, AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+ The old and new towns.--The French Hotel.--Early history
+ of the place.--Remains of an ancient Indian
+ town.--Situation of Pueblo Nuevo.--Health of the
+ place.--Commerce.--Smuggling.--Corruption in Public
+ Offices.--Letters and Mails.--Architecture.--Expense of
+ living.--Tone of morals. Gaming.--The
+ soldiery.--Degraded condition of the Indians.--The
+ Cargadores.--The market place.--Monument to Santa
+ Anna.--The Bluff.--Pueblo Viejo.--Visit to the
+ ruins.--Desolate appearance of the place.--"La
+ Fuente."--Return at sunset.--The Rancheros of
+ Mexico.--The Arrieros.
+
+
+
+On the 17th of February, we bade adieu to Vera Cruz, and sailed along the
+coast, northwardly, for Tampico, distant over two hundred miles. The
+passage was a very favorable one; and we arrived at our destination on the
+evening of the following day. Coming to anchor outside the bar, a launch
+from the shore, manned by naked Indians, was soon at our service, to take
+us up to the city. It was a pull of six miles on the river Panuco. On our
+way up, we passed Pueblo Viejo, or the old town of Tampico, on our left,
+once a place of considerable trade, but now deserted, and comparatively in
+ruins. Two miles above this place, we landed at the mole, as it is called,
+where our luggage underwent the usual vexatious examinations; after which,
+permission was given us to enter the town of Santa Anna de Tamaulipas,
+known also as the Pueblo Nuevo, or New Town of Tampico.
+
+I was soon ensconced in a hotel, kept by a Frenchman. It was a sad place.
+The accommodations, if such a word can, with any propriety, be used in
+reference to such a house, were as uninviting as could be desired. The
+house was, in all respects, uncomfortable and dirty, and the charges $2,50
+per day. But a shelter, in this country, though a poor one, is something to
+be thankful for; and, in the almost universal absence of comfort, one often
+has occasion to be grateful for any thing that bears a distant resemblance
+to it. With this kind of philosophy, I endeavored to console myself in the
+present instance, remembering that my situation was not quite as bad as it
+might be, nor indeed as it oftentimes had been in other places.
+
+Santa Anna de Tamaulipas stands on what was once the site of a populous
+Indian town, which was first visited by Juan de Grijalva, in 1518. This
+"hopeful young man and well behaved," as he is described by one of the old
+historians, was the captain of the second expedition, sent from Cuba, to
+explore the large and rich islands, as they were then supposed to be, lying
+to the west, part of which were discovered by Columbus in 1502 and 1503,
+and part by Juan Dias de Solis and Vincent Yañez Pinzon, in 1506. At this
+place, Grijalva had a severe conflict with the "natives," who defended
+"their altars and their homes" with great bravery. The old historians of
+the conquest agree that Cortes, who followed Grijalva, and finally
+succeeded in reducing the whole country to the Spanish yoke, met with a
+warm reception on the Panuco. Few places were more ably defended, or more
+reluctantly surrendered by the Indians.
+
+But few traces remain of the ancient city, or of its brave inhabitants. Yet
+occasionally, in digging for the foundations of buildings recently erected,
+the bones, and sometimes complete skeletons, of that unfortunate race are
+found, as well as remains of their household utensils.
+
+Fifteen years ago, this place was occupied only by a few Indian huts, and
+Pueblo Viejo, the old town, was in its most flourishing condition. But the
+superior advantages of this position were too apparent to be longer
+overlooked by the searching eye of commercial enterprise. The bank of the
+river is very bold, and the water of sufficient depth to allow vessels to
+anchor close to the shore; and the navigation inland is uninterrupted for
+more than a hundred miles. The town is laid out in regular squares. The
+site is a sort of low flat shelf of land, forming the terminus of a rocky
+peninsula, above and back of which there is a cluster of lakes or ponds,
+having an outlet into the Panuco. These ponds, like those in the vicinity
+of Vera Cruz, are fruitful of yellow fever, which annually ravages this
+devoted coast. This terrible scourge, which seems to be one of the settled
+perquisites of the place, together with the formidable bar at the mouth of
+the river, are serious drawbacks to the prosperity of the town. Were it
+possible to remove them, I think there is little doubt that Santa Anna de
+Tamaulipas would soon become one of the most flourishing seaport towns in
+Mexico. Its local situation is favorable--it is the nearest point on the
+coast to the richest of the mining districts, and the place from which the
+greater portion of the specie is exported. It has also a considerable
+business in dye-woods and hides.
+
+But the commerce of Santa Anna de Tamaulipas has been declining for several
+years, and, unless some new impulse is given to it, by some such
+improvements as are above suggested, it must continue to decline. The
+little business that is now done there, is chiefly in the hands of
+foreigners.
+
+Smuggling was once carried on here to a very great extent; but the severe
+and stringent regulations of the government, have nearly succeeded in
+breaking it up. Or, to speak with more perfect accuracy, the business has
+changed hands, and that, which was before done through the venality of the
+subordinates, is now carried on by the direct connivance of the heads of
+the departments, who have contrived to monopolize to themselves this
+lucrative traffic, and thus, by robbing the government, to enrich
+themselves and the merchants at the same time. There is probably no country
+in the world, where there is such utter destitution of good faith and
+common honesty, on the part of those who contrive to secure the offices of
+trust. It is a remark of almost universal application, though it will
+probably apply with peculiar emphasis to the custom house department, where
+the largest amount of spoils are necessarily to be found. The most glaring
+cases of fraud are constantly occurring. Thousands of dollars are weekly
+passed over to the officials, which never find their way into the treasury;
+and thousands that have gone in are missing, having never honestly found
+their way out. But little attention is paid to these instances of
+corruption. The criminals, though well known, are allowed to retain their
+stations; or, if by chance removed, through the complaints of those who are
+eager to step into their places, they are only elevated to more important
+and lucrative offices, where they have a wider field of operation, and a
+better chance to serve themselves, _and those who appointed them_. How far
+we of the United States may be placing ourselves in the condition of those
+who live in glass houses, by thus throwing stones at the Mexicans, I know
+not. But it is my candid opinion, shrewd and cunning as we are allowed to
+be in all matters of finance, that we are quite out-done in these matters
+by our more southern neighbors.
+
+Letters arriving or departing by ship, cannot be delivered, without first
+passing through the Post Office. The charges, which are very high, are
+regulated by weight, as under the new system in the United States. No
+captain, or consignee, is permitted to receive a letter, without the
+government stamp, under a heavy penalty. Whether the same restriction and
+penalty is laid upon passengers and travellers, I am not informed; but it
+would be very difficult to carry them without observation, as every nook
+and corner of every trunk, box, or bag, is searched, as well as the linings
+of every article of dress, and even of your boots and shoes. All letters
+are liable to seizure and inspection, and they are often broken, when any
+cause of jealousy or suspicion arises. The ordinary mails in the northern
+part of the country, are more regular than rapid, being, for the most
+part, transported on the backs of the Indians. Of course, neither money,
+nor valuable documents of any kind, are entrusted to this conveyance. An
+armed _conducta_ performs this service between the mines and the capital,
+and between the capital and the principal seaports.
+
+In the buildings of Santa Anna de Tamaulipas, there is no uniformity of
+style, and no pretensions to beauty. American, English, and Spanish, are
+intermingled with the rude hut of the Indian. The population is as motley
+and heterogeneous as can well be conceived; and with the variety of
+feature, expression, manners, costume and no costume, ranks under what may
+be termed _the picturesque_.
+
+Notwithstanding the gradual decline of business here, rents and wages are
+extremely high, and the prices paid for every article of consumption are so
+enormous, that I should scarcely be believed if I should name them. And
+this, too, among a beggarly-looking, half-naked population. The average
+range of the thermometer is from 86° to 92°.
+
+As might be expected, from what has been said already, the general tone of
+morals in society is by no means elevated. The native, or Creole
+population, are, for the most part, shamefully ignorant and debased, and,
+with few exceptions, destitute of moral principle. They are extremely
+jealous of foreigners, and seem to regard every stranger coming among them
+as an unwelcome intruder. As far as I had an opportunity of judging, which
+was not inconsiderable, I should say that, as a race, they are as destitute
+of ambition to improve, as they are of education. There is no taste among
+them for the cultivation of the fine arts, which once flourished in this
+ill-fated country; whether among the remote ancestors of the present Indian
+tribes, or among other and nobler races of men, it is not easy now to
+decide.
+
+The almost universal resource of the Creoles, is the gaming table, at which
+numbers of them spend a large portion of their time. In this miserable and
+demoralizing recreation, I am sorry to be obliged to say, that the
+"natives" are not the only sharers. Strangers, who resort here for
+business, whether English, American, Spanish or French, with a few rare and
+honorable exceptions, sustain and encourage them by their example. Large
+amounts are sometimes lost and won, though, for the most part, the stakes
+are light; the passion being rather for gaming, and its attendant
+excitements, than for winning.
+
+The Indians, another and inferior class of natives, though nominally free,
+are in fact slaves. They are the drudges and bearers of burdens, for the
+whole community. They are ignorant, indolent and unthrifty to the last
+degree, and seem to have no idea of the possibility of bettering their
+condition. Like their superiors, they are much addicted to gaming, though
+necessarily on a very limited scale. In their condition of desperate
+poverty, they have little to lose; but that little is daily put at stake,
+and lost, or rather thrown away, with as much coolness and indifference, as
+if the inexhaustible mines of their golden mountains were all their own.
+And it not unfrequently happens, that, having lost his last _maravedi_, he
+stakes himself upon another throw, and becomes the temporary slave of the
+winner. The laws, though they do not recognize slavery in the abstract,
+are so constructed, as to admit of this arrangement. The consequence is,
+that vast numbers, whom indolence or improvidence have reduced to the
+necessity of running in debt to their white neighbors, are as truly slaves,
+as they were before the revolution.
+
+It is from the native Indians, that the rank and file of the Mexican army
+is, for the most part, supplied. A greater burlesque upon the name of a
+soldier can scarcely be conceived--a debased, insolent, drunken, half-naked
+rabble, in comparison with which Colonel Pluck's famous regiment would have
+made a display so brilliant, as to make all Philadelphia stare. It is a
+marvel to me how they can accomplish any thing with such a miserable set of
+ill-appointed, semi-civilized beings, especially, when their enlistment is
+for the most part compulsory, while they fight for self-constituted,
+tyrannical, unfeeling masters, and not for themselves, or their children. I
+should suppose that a single company of well disciplined Anglo-Saxon
+soldiers, would be more than a match for an ordinary Mexican army. If it
+was with such regiments as these, that Santa Anna undertook to reduce the
+refractory province of Texas, it is no matter of surprise that a handful of
+Yankee adventurers were able, not only to keep him at bay, but to put him,
+and his army of scarecrows, completely to route.
+
+The Indian, as I have before remarked, is the abject slave of the Mexican;
+and upon him devolves every kind of menial labor. The "Cargadores," who act
+as porters, are seen in all the streets. They carry the heaviest burdens,
+such as bales, barrels, boxes, etc. upon their backs; dray and draft
+horses being unknown here. Others are seen in the market places, and lying
+about the public streets, houseless, and almost naked, objects at once of
+pity and disgust to those unaccustomed to such sights. No means are
+employed, and no desire manifested, on the part of their superiors, to
+improve their character or condition. Politically, the Mexican regards them
+as his equals, while he treats them far worse than even the English do
+their slaves, either at home or abroad.
+
+The Market Place of Tampico is a rude open square, without embellishment,
+natural or artificial, one corner of which is occupied with stalls or
+tables, for meats and vegetables, which are guarded and dealt out by as
+motley a set of beggars as I had ever seen, as uninviting group of caterers
+as can well be imagined. The tarriers at home can little realize the many
+disagreeable offsets to the pleasure one derives from visiting foreign
+lands; while the traveller learns, by a painful daily experience, to
+appreciate all the little conveniences and proprieties, as well as the
+thousand substantial comforts of home.
+
+In the centre of this square, a monument is to be erected in honor of the
+celebrated General Santa Anna, commemorating his successful encounter with
+the old Spanish forces, in this place, in the year 1829, during the last
+struggles of Mexico to throw off the yoke of Spain, and establish an
+independent government. The foundation of this monument is finished, and
+the builders are waiting the arrival of the column from New York, where, as
+I was informed, Italian artists are employed in completing it. It is
+intended to be worthy of the name of the distinguished man in whose honor
+it is reared, and of the event which it is designed to commemorate. How the
+two can be fitly blended in one inscription, it is difficult to conceive.
+The victory which Santa Anna achieved over the Spanish oppressors of the
+struggling province, may indeed have a claim to be recorded on the enduring
+marble; but, for the honor due to a _name_ like that of the exiled hero of
+San Jacinto, a name so long associated with every species of tyranny and
+oppression, of treason to his country, and of treachery alike to friend and
+to foe--how shall it be appropriately expressed? In what terms of mingled
+eulogium and execration shall it be couched? "_The_ NAME _and the_ EVENT!"
+It will doubtless be an easy matter to frame an inscription suitable to the
+_event_--but to illustrate the glory of the _name_--_hoc opus, his labor
+est_.
+
+In a state of society like that which has existed in Mexico, for many years
+past, it would seem a difficult task to erect monuments to illustrate the
+services of their great men. Revolution succeeding revolution, and dynasty
+chasing dynasty, in rapid succession like the waves of the sea, a
+successful leader has scarcely time to reach the post his high ambition has
+aimed at, and procure a decree for a triumph and a monument, before a rival
+faction has obtained possession of all the outposts, and begins to thunder
+under the walls of the capital. One after another, they have risen, and
+fallen, and passed away, some of them for ever, and some only to rise again
+with more rapid strides, and then to experience a more ruinous fall, than
+before. The monument which was begun yesterday in honor of one successful
+hero, may, to-morrow, be consecrated to the victory won over him by his
+enemy; and then, perhaps, be thrown down to give place to another, which
+commemorates the overthrow of both.
+
+How many times the government of Mexico is destined to be overturned and
+remodeled, before the completion of the Tampico monument, and what will be
+the position of the man for whose honor it was originally designed, when
+the column shall be ready to be placed on its pedestal, it would be
+hazardous to conjecture. It may not be unsafe, however, to predict, that
+neither this, nor any other column, or statue, erected in Mexico, will
+confer upon Santa Anna a greater notoriety than he now enjoys, or in any
+way alter the world's estimate of his true character. Impartial history has
+marred the beauty of many a monumental tablet, and converted that which was
+meant for glory, into a perpetual memorial of shame.
+
+A few yards from the Market place is a bold bluff of rock, fronting the
+Panuco, from the top of which we have an extensive view of the surrounding
+country. Near this place, the River Tamissee, which drains the adjacent
+lagoons, forms its junction with the Panuco, which sweeps gracefully along
+from the southwest, broken and diversified by a number of low wooded
+islands, which disturb, but beautify its course.
+
+On the opposite shore, at some distance, lies the lagoon of Pueblo Viejo,
+and beyond that, but within sight from this bluff, the ruins of the old
+town, situated on a beautiful plateau, or table land, flanked by the spires
+of the Cordilleras.
+
+The low lands of the suburbs are filled with rude huts of the Indians,
+built chiefly of bamboo, and covered with the palm-leaf. A more squalid
+state of misery than is exhibited among this class, both here and in the
+town, it has never fallen to my lot to witness.
+
+Not satisfied with this distant view of the ruins of the Pueblo Viejo, I
+determined to form a nearer acquaintance with them, by a personal visit.
+The American Consul, and his accomplished lady, very kindly accompanied me
+thither, in a canoe, under the guidance of an Indian. We descended the
+Panuco a short distance, and passed into a bayou communicating with one of
+the great lagoons, near which the old town is situated. The locale is
+decidedly agreeable and picturesque. Though in the uplands, it lies at the
+foot of a steep and thickly wooded hill, which affords a variety of
+romantic retreats, and commanding look-outs for the surrounding country.
+But, however much they might have been improved and valued in former times,
+they are now deserted, and forgotten. An almost death-like tranquillity
+reigns in the forsaken streets and environs, forming a melancholy contrast
+to the half European, and comparatively bustling aspect of its now more
+prosperous rival.
+
+The houses are low-built, with flat roofs. The façades of some of them
+show, in the faded gaiety, and dubious taste of their coloring, what they
+were in the palmy days of the Pueblo Viejo's early glory. Many of them had
+court-yards and porticos. One group of old buildings, of Spanish
+architecture, situated near the humble church that consecrated the public
+square, shows many marks of its ancient grandeur, even in its present state
+of desolation and decay.
+
+It is painful to stroll through the streets of a city of our own times,
+once full of life and bustle, but now falling into the decrepitude of a
+premature old age. It is like walking among the sepulchres of the living;
+and the few signs of life that remain, only serve to give intensity to the
+shadows of night that are deepening around it. Here, there was nothing to
+relieve the melancholy aspect of the scene. The people, both masters and
+slaves, were poor, listless and inactive; their dwellings were comfortless
+and uninviting, and their lands miserably neglected and unproductive. A
+death-like incubus seemed to hang on the whole place.
+
+We traversed the whole length of the streets, through the suburbs, to visit
+"La Fuente," which is situated in a small dell at the foot of the hill
+which overhangs the town. It is a beautiful spot, ornamented with every
+variety of flower. Its source was concealed from view. "La Fuente" is an
+artificial stone reservoir, of considerable length, beautifully
+overshadowed with trees, from whose branches depends a kind of curtain of
+interwoven vines, falling in the most luxuriant festoons on every side. It
+is not now, as perhaps it has been in former days, a place of public resort
+for recreation. It is the general laundry of Tampico; and its margin is
+daily crowded, not with sylphs and naiads, but with a motley set of Indian
+women, more appropriately compared to ancient sybils, or modern gypsies. It
+was, altogether, the most remarkable and striking scene that had fallen
+under my view in my recent travels, and one that would figure well in the
+hands of the author of the "Twice Told Tales," or the "Charcoal Sketches."
+To their notice I commend it, with free license to make what use they
+please of my poor description.
+
+The sun was setting when we returned to Santa Anna de Tamaulipas. We
+paddled slowly away, pausing occasionally to admire--with my agreeable
+companions--the brilliant effect of the last rays of day light upon the
+lakes, woods and mountains, and the luxuriant foliage, realizing more fully
+than I had ever been able to do before, the rare beauty of those remarkable
+lines of Beattie--
+
+ Oh! how canst thou renounce the boundless store
+ Of charms that nature to her votary yields,
+ The warbling woodland, the resounding shore,
+ The pomp of groves, and garniture of fields,
+ All that the genial ray of morning gilds,
+ And all that echoes to the song of even,
+ All that the mountain's sheltering bosom shields,
+ And all the dread magnificence of heaven--
+ Oh! how canst thou renounce, and hope to be forgiven!
+
+Winding between verdant banks, through the broken channel, into the
+beautiful Panuco, we reached the mole before night-fall, well satisfied
+with the adventures of the day.
+
+Before leaving the town, I wish to introduce to the reader two classes of
+men, who are somewhat peculiar in their appearance, characters and habits,
+as well as somewhat important in their relations to the business of the
+country.
+
+The _Rancheros_ are a mixed race of Mexican and Indian blood. They live on
+the Ranches, or large cattle farms, and act as drovers. They are brave, and
+full of life and vivacity, but profoundly ignorant of every thing beyond
+their immediate occupations. There is an air of independence, and a
+fearlessness of manner, in the Ranchero, which is quite imposing. Sallying
+forth on his sinewy horse, encased in leather, with the ready lasso at his
+saddle bow, he seems, though in coarse attire, the embodiment of health,
+strength and agility.
+
+The _Arrieros_, the muleteers of the country, have their peculiarities, the
+most striking of which, and by far the most agreeable, is, that they are
+honest. For this virtue they are proverbial, as indeed they should be in a
+land where it is scarcely known in any other class of society. Many of them
+pride themselves much upon their vocation, which frequently passes down
+from father to son, through several generations. They are civil, obliging
+and cheerful. They have, as a class, the entire confidence of the
+community, and millions of property are confided to their care. Their
+honesty and trustworthiness remain unimpaired amid all the political
+changes of the country. Often as they are compelled to change masters, they
+serve the new with the same fidelity as the old, and a stranger, or even an
+enemy, as well as a friend.
+
+Although this rigid honesty and trustworthinesss, in this class of persons
+in Mexico, is worthy of remark and of all praise, I take pleasure in
+stating, from my own personal observation, that it is not peculiar to that
+country. The same class of persons in many parts of the United States, are
+distinguished for the same virtue. Our common stage drivers and mail
+carriers, although their employment is of the hardiest character, and their
+general associations such as to expose them to many of the worst
+temptations of taverns, bar-rooms, and other kindred influences, are as
+well known for their integrity and faithfulness, in the trusts committed to
+them, as for their skill and fearlessness in the management of their teams.
+It is the common custom, in many parts of the country, to employ these men
+in conveying remittances from the interior, to the banks, or merchants, in
+the seaport towns. Thousands and thousands of dollars are daily sent in
+this way, without receipt or acknowledgement, and with perfect reliance on
+the faithfulness of the carrier. And I do not remember an instance, in that
+part of the country where I have been most acquainted, in which this
+confidence has been misplaced. If the Mexican _Arriero_ is deserving of
+more credit for his virtue, in consequence of the inferior tone of morals
+in the community about him, we would not willingly deprive him of it. At
+the same time, we confess to a patriotic pride in finding, for every thing
+that is "lovely and of good report" in foreign lands, an offset of
+something equally good, or better, at home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CANOE VOYAGE UP THE RIVER PANUCO. RAMBLES AMONG THE RUINS OF ANCIENT
+CITIES.
+
+ An independent mode of travelling.--The river and its
+ banks.--Soil and productions.--A Yankee brick yard.--Indian
+ huts.--Their manner of living.--Their position in
+ society.--Their dress, stature and general
+ appearance.--Arrival at Topila Creek.--Mr. Coss'
+ rancho.--The Lady's Room.--Company at night.--An aged
+ Indian.--His ignorance of the past.--Mounds.--Ruins of an
+ ancient town.--Rancho de las Piedras.--Topila
+ Hills.--Numerous Mounds.--An ancient well.--A wild
+ fig-tree.--Extensive ruins.--An evening scene.--Attack of
+ the Bandaleros.--Happy escape.
+
+
+On the evening of the 14th of March, 1844, I took a temporary leave of
+Tampico, and proceeded up the river Panuco, with the intention of visiting,
+and as far as my time and means might allow, of exploring the ruins then
+known to exist, and of seeking others which I supposed might be found, in
+that vicinity. My mode of conveyance was as primitive and independent, as
+can well be imagined. In my own hired canoe, with an Indian to paddle me
+along, I felt that I was master of my own time and movements, and enjoyed,
+for a season, a perfect freedom from the ordinary restraints and
+responsibilities of social life. Leaving care, and business, and the world
+behind, and committing my little all to the favoring smiles of an
+omnipresent Providence, I threaded my way through the circuitous windings
+of that romantic stream, with a resolute purpose to enjoy every thing, and
+be annoyed at nothing, however strange it might be. This disposition is
+essential to the comfort of the traveller, in any strange land, and
+especially in one that is barbarous, or semi-civilized; and, under whatever
+circumstances it is put in requisition, it is its own sufficient reward.
+
+The river Panuco rises among the lakes near the city of Mexico, and winds
+its meandering way, under several different names, the principal of which
+is "Canada," till it debouches into the Gulf of Mexico, six miles below
+Tampico. It is navigable about one hundred and forty miles, for all vessels
+that can pass the bar at its mouth; and yet, owing to its circuitous
+course, the distance _by land_, from this head of navigation to Tampico, is
+not more than forty miles. The river seldom swells so as to overflow its
+banks. The land, on either side, was found, on examination, to be a deep,
+rich loam, capable of producing corn, sugar, tobacco and rice. The sugar
+cane found in this region is extremely productive. It grows in height from
+fourteen to twenty feet, and requires re-planting but once in nine or ten
+years. It will be a glorious region for amateur planters and speculators,
+when "the area of freedom" shall have extended to the Isthmus of Panama.
+Ebony, rose-wood, dye-woods of various kinds, and sarsaparilla, are cut
+here in great abundance, and are important articles of exportation.
+
+The banks of this river, though beautifully arrayed in the verdure of
+nature, want that humanizing interest, that peculiar utilitarian charm,
+which cultivation and occupation alone can impart. Our progress, therefore,
+though always presenting something new to the eye, seemed comparatively
+slow and tedious, with little of life, but that which we carried along with
+us, to disturb its quiet monotony.
+
+As the evening of the first day was setting in, we stopped at a brick yard,
+the property of two enterprising kind-hearted Americans, by whom we were
+hospitably entertained, and who informed us that our day's journey had been
+made, by travelling a distance of eighteen miles. The new town of Santa
+Anna de Tamaulipas, brought into requisition, and gave employment to many
+of our countrymen. And, when the making of brick became lucrative, our
+good-natured hosts determined to lose no time in taking advantage of the
+occasion. The adventure was accordingly made, and a few years' thrift has
+placed their affairs in a hopeful and healthy condition. But, like all
+other foreigners in this country, they are heartily tired of remaining
+here, and are looking forward with much anxiety to the happy day, when they
+shall be enabled to return to their native land; for, such are the decrees
+of the government, that, in direct violation of treaty, an open warfare is
+kept up against the rights and interests of all emigrants,--but, more
+particularly, those from the United States,--many of whom are sacrificing
+their property and prospects of affluence, and leaving the country in utter
+disgust.
+
+Early the following morning, we proceeded on our course up the river,
+stopping, occasionally, to visit the rude huts of the Indians. The huts are
+formed principally of mud, with thatched roofs, and present a most
+uncomfortable appearance; whilst the poor, degenerated occupants, derive a
+mean and scanty support, from a small strip of land along the banks of the
+river, their chief object being the cultivation of corn for their own use.
+Pieces of clay, put rudely together and baked, are the common utensils for
+cooking their food; and a few upright sticks or reeds, driven into the mud
+floor, with a hide stretched over them, constitute their most luxurious
+bed. Indolent and filthy, they work only to meet their own immediate wants;
+and, so degraded is their condition, that gaming and cock-fighting are
+their principal pastimes. The inebriating bowl, also, is eagerly sought by
+them, and a large portion of their earnings is spent in this riotous way,
+even under the guidance of their priests, at the celebration of a marriage,
+or on the occasion of a christening.
+
+The Indians of Central America, bear as little resemblance to those of our
+country generally, as the Spaniards among whom they dwell do, to us. They
+do not, in any place, live by themselves, as independent tribes. They have
+no peculiar habits of life, or of warfare--no hunting--no sports peculiar
+to themselves--and none of the customs of their ancestors preserved, to
+distinguish them from the mass of people about them. It is only their
+complexion, their poverty, and generally degraded condition, that marks the
+difference between them and their neighbors. They occupy nearly the same
+position there, as the free blacks do in the United States, with this
+difference in favor of the latter--that there is nothing in the spirit of
+our institutions, civil, _or religious_, that prevents them from attaining
+a respectable education, and a comfortable independence.
+
+[Illustration: AN INDIAN MAN AND WOMAN.]
+
+Ordinarily, the men wear trousers,--sometimes shirts of cotton,--but, in
+many parts of the country, owing to the prohibition of certain qualities
+and textures, this luxury is fast disappearing, and the more primitive
+dress of _skins_ is taking its place. The _rebosa_, a narrow scarf, thrown
+over the head and shoulders, is indispensable to females. No matter what
+constitutes the other portion of their covering, even though, as is
+oftentimes the case, their wardrobe is so scanty as scarcely to cover their
+limbs, yet this is considered paramount. On one occasion, I remember to
+have seen a female, with a rebosa upon her head, which cost no less than
+twenty-five dollars, whilst her body was miserably covered with a sort of
+under garment, or petticoat, such as few of our common street beggars would
+be willing to wear.
+
+These people are of the usual color and stature of the Mexican Indians, but
+not so finely formed as the majority of them are,--nor have they that good
+expression, so prominent among the people of the southern portions of
+Mexico. They seem, moreover, to be entirely destitute of that spirit of
+religion, which their manifest appreciation of some religious rites, would
+naturally lead us to expect. Altogether, they are the most unfavorable
+specimen of the natives that have fallen under my observation.
+
+Before night-fall of the second day of our voyage, we reached the mouth of
+the Topila Creek, a distance of twenty miles from the brick-yard.
+Continuing our course up that stream about three miles, we came to a
+rancho, or cattle-farm, belong to a Mr. Coss, of Tampico, brother of the
+celebrated general of Texan memory. Before I left Tampico, this gentleman
+gave me a letter to his major-domo, a half-breed, who received us with
+great attention. The letter being very explicit on the subject of
+_accommodation_, I could not but fare well in this respect,--and it may
+yet, perhaps, be gathered from the sequel, that I was treated more like a
+prince than a common traveller.
+
+Arriving at the place, we were ushered into a bamboo house, with mud walls,
+and floors of the same primitive material. This house contained no less
+than two apartments. One of these, sustained the distinguished appellation
+of "_the lady's room_"--and it was now my privilege to become its _sole_
+occupant. In one corner of the room, stood a bedstead, without bed or
+bedding; and a dressing-table, decorated with sundry condemned combs,
+oil-bottles, scissors and patches, occupied another; whilst a demijohn of
+aguardiente, and other interesting ornaments, such as saddles, guns, and
+swords, filled up the picture. However, as I intended to make this place my
+head-quarters, while exploring the hills and river banks in the
+neighborhood, I at once resolved to be satisfied with "the lady's room,"
+and such other good things as the place afforded. Accordingly, at an early
+hour, I spread out my blanket, and retired for the night;--"deep into the
+darkness peering--long I lay there, fondly dreaming," as before observed,
+that I was "alone in my glory."
+
+But, alas! the soft reflections of dreamy hours were disturbed by an
+unexpected visit from a goodly number of well-disciplined, noxious little
+animals, who introduced themselves to me in a most significant, yet
+unceremonious manner. No remarks being made respecting the object of their
+visit, I was left to infer, that the kindness of the major-domo had moved
+him to organize a new company of lancers, for my especial benefit. After
+many unsuccessful attempts to induce this unsolicited force to withdraw, my
+attention was politely called to another quarter. Having been strongly
+impressed, I was now fully convinced, of the immediate presence of sundry
+young pigeons, many of whom, protected by their maternal parents, were
+perched in the crevices of the wall over my head. These, together with the
+game fowls, setting under my bed, contributed much to destroy that
+confidence which, until now had not been disturbed, that I had actually
+secured the undivided occupancy of that unique apartment. Of course, it was
+unnecessary to arouse me in the morning.
+
+Before sunrise, I found myself well equipped for the explorations of the
+day. The mules being in readiness, I started in company with a guide, and
+rode five miles to another rancho, where, as I was informed, there lived an
+Indian upwards of a hundred years of age. I found him, to my surprise, a
+hale and sturdy man--though he could give me no intelligence respecting the
+objects of my research. Indeed, so suspicious are these people of the
+designs of strangers, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
+convince him, as well as others, that my only motive in visiting the
+country, was to acquaint myself with the ancient places of their
+forefathers; not, as they supposed, to roam in quest of gold and silver
+mines.
+
+Supposing that, in a man so much beyond the ordinary limit of human life,
+whose memory might extend back almost one-third of the way to the era of
+the Spanish conquest, and who was now in the full possession of his
+faculties, I had found a rare and enviable opportunity to pry into the
+mysteries of the past, and learn something of the history of the remarkable
+people, who once occupied this whole region, and filled it with monuments
+of their genius, taste, and power;--I employed all my ingenuity to draw out
+of him whatever he knew. But it was pumping at an exhausted well. Of facts,
+of history, in any form, he had nothing to tell. He seemed not to have a
+thought that there was anything to be told, except one vague
+unsatisfactory tradition, the only one existing among the inhabitants in
+all this region, that once on a time--they have no conception when, whether
+a hundred or a thousand years ago--"giants came from the North, as was
+prophesied by the gods, killed and destroyed the people, and continued on
+to the South." This tradition, bearing a strong analogy to one which
+prevails among nearly all the aboriginal tribes of the Mississippi Valley,
+and the wilds of the west, seems to be the only connecting link between the
+present generation, and that mysteriously interesting blank--the
+exterminated obliterated Past.
+
+In the vicinity of this rancho, in an easterly direction from it, I found,
+in several considerable mounds, the first traces of ancient art that had
+greeted my eyes. One of these mounds was more than twenty-five feet in
+height, and of a circular form. At its sides, a number of layers of small,
+flat, well-hewn stones were still to be seen. Scattered about, in its
+immediate neighborhood, were also many others of a larger size, and of
+different forms. These had apparently once been used for the sides of
+door-ways and lintels. They were perfectly plain, without any mark or sign
+of ornament.
+
+Upon this spot once stood one of those ancient Indian towns, the memorials
+of whose departed greatness and glory are so often met with, in every part
+of this interesting country. The ruins in this place are ruins indeed, so
+dilapidated as not to afford, at the present time, the remotest clue to the
+manners and customs of the builders, or the degree of civilization to which
+they may have attained. I traversed the whole ground, as well as the rank
+vegetation, and wild animals would permit, and found my way back to the
+Topila at dark,--congratulating myself on having been able to accomplish so
+much, in the way of exploration, with no other protection than the untanned
+skin of an American, while that of a rhinoceros seemed absolutely necessary
+to the undertaking; for both the animal and vegetable kingdoms appeared to
+be combined against the intrusion of man.
+
+On the morning of the next day, I set out with a party of Indians, on a
+visit to the _Rancho de las Piedras_, distant about two leagues and a half,
+in a south-east direction. We made our way, slowly, and wearily, as usual,
+threading the thick wilds with much toil and fatigue, until we reached a
+rise of land, or plateau, near a chain of hills running through this
+section of country, and known as the Topila Hills. Here I found stones that
+were once evidently used for buildings. Proceeding on our way, we came to
+other and clearer evidences of ancient art. These were mounds, the sides of
+which had been constructed of loose layers of smooth and uniform blocks of
+concrete sandstone;--but most of the layers had fallen from their original
+position, and were found in large masses near the elevation. The blocks of
+stone, with a surface eighteen inches square, measured about six inches in
+thickness, and appeared to have been laid without mortar, or other adhesive
+material. I observed about twenty of these mounds, contiguous to each
+other, and varying in height from six to twenty-five feet,--some being of a
+circular, and others of a square form; but, unlike most of those found in
+other parts of the country, they were not laid out with any degree of
+regularity. On the top of one of the largest, there had evidently been a
+terrace, though it was difficult, in its present dilapidated state, to
+define its outlines, or judge of its extent.
+
+The principal elevation covers an area of about two acres. At the base of
+this mound, was a slab of stone about seven inches in thickness, well hewn,
+and of a circular form, having a hole through the centre, and resting upon
+a circular wall, or foundation, the top of which was level with the ground.
+This stone measured four feet nine inches in diameter. On removing it, I
+discovered a well, filled up with broken stone and fragments of pottery.
+Stone coverings in wells have been found in the ancient works on the main
+branches of Paint Creek, Ohio, bearing a strong resemblance to the one here
+noticed; and it is also worthy of remark, that wells covered in this way,
+strongly resemble the descriptions we have of those used in the patriarchal
+ages. How much of an argument might be made, from such an isolated
+circumstance as this, to confirm the opinion entertained by some able
+writers, that the aboriginal inhabitants of America were the descendants of
+Abraham, the lost ten tribes, who revolted under Rehoboam, the son of
+Solomon, and were carried away into Assyria, I shall not undertake to
+decide. Many a fair theory, however, has been erected upon a foundation no
+broader than this, nor more substantial; and many a volume has been written
+to sustain the shadowy fabric.
+
+I should have stated above, that the upper side of the stone removed, bore
+evidence of having been originally wrought with ornamental lines; but these
+lines were so much obliterated by time and exposure to the weather, that
+they could not now be traced.
+
+On the top of this mound, a wild fig-tree, more than a hundred feet high,
+grows luxuriantly, indicating by its size and age, that the mound on which
+it stands, is not the work of modern builders.
+
+The walls of the smaller mounds had invariably fallen inwards, a
+circumstance which led to the conjecture that they had been used as burying
+places. For, as the bones within would, in process of time, decay and
+moulder into dust, the loose walls, having no cement to hold them together,
+would gradually settle in upon the ashes of the dead. The ground for
+several miles around, was strewn with loose hewn stones, of various shapes,
+and broken pieces of pottery, evidently parts of household utensils; also,
+fragments of obsidean, which no doubt had been used as the knives and
+spears of a people, respecting whom, little is known at this day, except
+that they were a warlike race, and far advanced in the arts of
+civilization. The nearest point now known, where this mineral can be
+obtained, is _Pelados_, near the Real del Monte, in the vicinity of the
+city of Mexico. The celebrated "Mountain of Flints," which, though but
+twenty-four miles in extent, cost the indefatigable Cortes, and his brave
+band, twelve days of the most painful toil to surmount, lies still farther
+off, in the south western part of Yucatan.
+
+An incident of a somewhat startling character, which occured to me here,
+while it illustrates another feature in the state of society in these
+parts, and the character of the people whom the traveller sometimes has to
+deal with, will serve to bring the present chapter to close; leaving the
+interesting curiosities discovered among the ruins, and a yet more
+thrilling adventure which befel me, to form the material for a separate
+chapter.
+
+It was evening. The day had been spent in rambling and climbing about the
+time hallowed ruins of those old deserted cities, and searching among the
+mouldering relics of antiquity, for something to identify the dead with the
+living, or to serve as a satisfactory link between the past and the
+present. My Indian comrades and myself were cosily discussing our forest
+fare, each indulging in his own private reflections, and totally
+unsuspicious of any interruption to our humble meal, when we were suddenly
+surrounded by a band of those grim-looking, dark-bearded, heavily-whiskered
+gentlemanly-looking like highwaymen, that infest almost every part of the
+country. They immediately dismounted, and made us prisoners, seizing us by
+the hand as if they would bind us, to prevent our escape. We made no
+resistance, for we were unprepared for defence, and entirely at their
+mercy. Here, now, was trouble enough. What a poor finale to my brief and
+unprofitable adventures, to be murdered in cold blood by these merciless
+banditti, or made a hopeless captive in some of their mountain fastnesses!
+My position, feelings, and reflections, can be better imagined than
+described.
+
+Having surveyed us from crown to toe, with the utmost scrutiny, and
+compared notes respecting our appearance, and the prospect of obtaining any
+satisfaction in our blood, they drew forth from their bags--the huge and
+fearful looking horse-pistol?--No. The long, glittering, keen-edged,
+high-tempered dirk, drunk with the blood of numberless victims of their
+rapacious cruelty?--No. The slender stiletto, so delicately formed, and so
+exquisitely polished, as to insinuate itself into the vitals, ere the
+parted epidermis had realized the rent it had made in passing?--No. The
+savage cutlass?--the heavy, fierce-looking, trenchant broad-sword?--No. Not
+these--nor any of them,--but, unexpected, and unheard of, even among
+civilized highwaymen--they drew out an ample store of substantial food, and
+invited us to partake of their supper. We did not shrink from their
+professed hospitality. We made ourselves of their party for the moment, and
+spent an hour, or more, in their company, with great glee, and with mutual
+satisfaction--after which, they mounted and rode off, and we took to our
+hammocks and our dreams.
+
+By what token we escaped, I was not able to conjecture. Whether, as my
+vanity might have suggested, it was to be attributed to my good looks, or
+to my Spanish sombrero, flannel shirt, and bandolero air, or to the
+influence of some propitious star, just then in the ascendant, is a mystery
+yet to be explained. If I may have the same good fortune in escaping the
+censure of the reader, upon whose patience these trifling sketches have
+been inflicted, it will afford me a gratification that will far more than
+overbalance all the pains and inconveniences that I have suffered, from
+being brought into conflict with insects, wild beasts, and robbers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+FURTHER EXPLORATION OF THE RUINS IN THE VICINITY OF THE RANCHO DE LAS
+PIEDRAS.
+
+ Situation of the Ruins.--Their probable antiquity.--A
+ remarkable female head.--Description of it.--Where
+ found.--Brought to New York.--Another head.--Difficulty of
+ getting at it.--Its collossal proportions.--A particular
+ description.--Indians disposed to leave me, but induced to
+ remain.--The American Sphinx.--Description.--Conjectures of
+ its origin and design.--Curiously ornamented head.--Its
+ peculiar features.--Exploring the ruins a difficult
+ work.--Annoyances.--Deserted by the Indians.--A delicate
+ situation.--A fortunate escape.
+
+
+These ruins are situated, as near as I could calculate with the primitive
+instruments constructed for the occasion, in longitude 98° 31´ west, and
+latitude 22° 9´ north, covering a space of several miles square, and have
+every appearance of being the remains of a single town. The whole place is
+completely covered with trees of the largest growth, so thickly
+interspersed with the rankest vegetation, that even the sun, or daylight
+itself, can scarcely find its way among them. So very dense and dark is the
+forest, and so constant and extensive the decomposition of vegetable matter
+going on beneath it, that it impregnates the whole region with a humid and
+unwholesome atmosphere. It is true, that these circumstances have, in a
+great degree, hastened the dilapidation of the works of human skill around;
+but, nevertheless, they furnish indisputable evidence of the great
+antiquity of those works.
+
+[Illustration: FEMALE HEAD.]
+
+Among these ruins, I found a remarkable head, which, with various other
+relics of antiquity from the same interesting region, I had the honor of
+depositing in the collection of the New York Historical Society. This head,
+or rather face, a drawing of which I have the pleasure of here presenting
+to the reader, resembles that of a female. It is beautifully cut from a
+fine sandstone, of a dark reddish hue, which abounds in this vicinity. The
+face, which is of the ordinary life size, stands out, in full relief, from
+the rough block, as if it were in an unfinished state, or as if designed to
+occupy a place among the ornamental work of a building. In several of its
+features, the lines are decidedly Grecian, and the symmetry and beauty of
+its proportions have been very much admired. How and where the artist may
+have obtained his model, and how far the existence of it may be deemed to
+confirm the statements of Plato and Aristotle, and favor the conjecture of
+an early settlement on this continent by the Phoenician navigators, I
+shall not now stay to inquire.
+
+This striking figure I found, lying among vast piles of broken and
+crumbling stones, the ruins of dilapidated buildings, which were strewed
+over a vast space. It was in a remarkably good state of preservation,
+except the nose, which was slightly mutilated; not sufficiently so,
+however, to lose its uniformity, or destroy the beautiful symmetry of its
+proportions. The fillet, or band of the head-dress, which conceals the
+frontal developments, is unlike any thing found among the sculptured
+remains in this country, or worn by any of the native tribes.
+
+On discovering this remarkable piece of sculpture--remarkable considering
+the place where it was found--I immediately commenced making a drawing of
+it. But, before completing the sketch, I was so struck with its singular
+beauty and perfection, that I determined to lay violent hands on it, and
+bring it away with me; fearing that a mere drawing would not be sufficient
+evidence, to the incredulous world, of the existence of such a piece of
+work among the ruins of places, which had been built and peopled, according
+to the commonly received opinion, by a race of semi-barbarians. It was a
+work of no little labor and difficulty to secure it. But I finally
+succeeded in giving it a comfortable and a safe lodgment on the back of my
+mule, and so brought it to the bank of the river, where I em_bark_ed it in
+a canoe. It had several narrow escapes by the way, but was, at length,
+safely landed in New York.
+
+[Illustration: COLOSSAL HEAD.]
+
+I also discovered among the rubbish, in this place, and not far from the
+spot where the above described Grecian head was found, another large
+stone, with a head well sculptured upon its surface, in bold relief, as
+represented in the accompanying engraving. It was buried up in a mass of
+superincumbent ruins, and was only brought to light in the course of my
+laborious excavations. On removing the loose stones and dust which covered
+it--the labor of nearly a whole day--it stood as represented in the sketch.
+The face was not so finely chiselled, nor had it the same regular classic
+beauty of feature and proportion, as the one first seen and described; but
+still there is much in its general appearance to attract attention. It is
+different from any thing heretofore discovered on this side of the
+Atlantic. The features, like those of the head which I brought away with
+me, are decidedly those of the Caucasian race, bearing no resemblance to
+those of any of the tribes on this continent. The ears are rather large,
+and the hair is represented rather by a series of regular flutings, than by
+any attempt at the wavy lines, which are ordinarily deemed essential to
+grace in this capital ornament. A band, or collar, passes round from the
+back of the neck, close to, and supporting the face, and meeting in a
+point, a few inches below the chin.
+
+The stone on which this figure was cut was circular, twelve feet in
+diameter, and three in thickness. The head, covering more than half its
+area, was of course of colossal proportions. The periphery of this mighty
+wheel was geometrically accurate and regular, and smoothly chiselled off,
+and would have served well, in ancient times, to fulfil the tartarean
+destiny of Sisyphus, or, in these modern times, for a Yankee mill-stone. It
+was a laborious task to clear away the stones and dirt that had been
+accumulating about it, perhaps for ages. But the sight of it, when placed
+in an upright position, amply repaid me for all the toil and fatigue, which
+it cost me to effect it.
+
+It was only with the greatest difficulty that I could keep my Indian allies
+at work. The influence of presents and coaxing was exhausted, long before I
+had attained my purpose with regard to this colossal figure-head. I then
+turned preacher, and addressed myself to their superstitious notions with
+some effect; calling up my little stock of proverbial wisdom, to stimulate
+them to new exertions, and giving them to understand that I expected to
+find something better than loose and broken stones, in turning up the soil,
+and rummaging among the ruined sepulchres of the departed. They did not
+comprehend the drift of my oracular discourse; but, like many other
+sermons, too profound for the comprehension of the hearers, it increased
+their reverence for the preacher, and made them more submissive to my
+orders.
+
+The next object which arrested my attention, was one, the sight of which
+carried back my imagination to ages of classic interest, and to the marvels
+of human art and power, on the banks of the river of Egypt. It was not
+perhaps a Sphinx, in the language of the critical and fastidious
+antiquarian; but sure I am, that no one, however scrupulous for the honor
+of oriental antiquities, could see it, without being strongly reminded of
+the fabulous monster of Thebes, and secretly wishing that he was so far an
+Oedipus, as to be able to solve the inexplicable riddle of its origin and
+design. It was the figure, as represented in the accompanying engraving, of
+a mammoth _turtle_, with the head of a man boldly protruded from under its
+gigantic shell. The figure of the amphibious monster measured over six feet
+in length, with a proportional width, and rested upon a huge block of
+concrete sandstone. The back was correctly and artistically wrought,
+displaying the exact form, and all the scale lines of the turtle in good
+proportion. There were also, in many parts distinctly visible, fainter
+lines, to show that the peculiar arabesque of that ornamental shield had
+not been overlooked by the artist.
+
+[Illustration: THE AMERICAN SPHINX.]
+
+All the other parts were equally true to nature. It was much broken and
+mutilated, especially the human protuberance; but not sufficiently so to
+destroy the evidences of the skill with which it had been designed, and of
+the masterly workmanship with which it had been wrought. This head must,
+originally, have been an unusually fine specimen of ancient American art.
+Like all the others found in this region, it has the Caucasian outline and
+contour, and in its finish and expression, is strongly marked with the
+unmistakable impress of genius. It is rare, among these works, to meet with
+an entire head, like this. They are generally half buried in the rock from
+which they were hewn, as if designed to be placed in some conspicuous
+position in the façade, or interior wall of a building. This work gives the
+head complete, and the posterior developments of the cranium, as the
+phrenologist would say, are those of an intellectual and moral cast--that
+is to say, they are quite subordinate to the frontal developments. The
+forehead was originally high and broad, though the mutilated appearance of
+the upper part, as given in the plate, would leave a different impression.
+The nose, as far as it remains is beautifully shaped and finely chiselled,
+as are also the lips, the chin, and the ears.
+
+It is only for me to describe things as I saw them, leaving it to others,
+more profound than myself in antiquarian researches, to frame appropriate
+theories for their explanation. But I could not avoid the temptation to
+pause a little over this singular curiosity, with a lurking disposition to
+catechise conjecture, respecting its probable signification and end. But it
+was all in vain--a mere reverie of guess-work, without beginning or clue.
+Whether it was the offspring of a simple freak of the imagination of the
+artist;--whether it was one of the symbols of the worship of that unknown
+race, for whom the artist exercised his unholy craft of making "gods which
+are yet no gods;"--whether it was a quaint hieroglyphical memorial of some
+remarkable epoch in their history--some luckless Jonah half swallowed by a
+turtle, and for ever struggling to escape;--whether it was the emblematic
+device of a club of artistic gourmands, the sign to be placed over the door
+of their banqueting hall, designed to acknowledge and illustrate the
+intimate union and sympathy, the identity of nature, between man and beast,
+in those who "make a god of their belly;"--these are alternatives of
+conjecture, upon which we may speculate as we will, but from which it is
+neither safe nor easy to make a definite choice.
+
+The probable history and design of "the American Sphinx"--for such I have
+taken the liberty to name it--will, I trust, be made a matter of more sober
+and successful enquiry by some future traveller, more skilled than I can
+profess to be in antiquarian researches. It is an ample field, strewn on
+every side with subjects of the deepest interest. And he who shall first,
+by means of these only records that remain, scattered, disconnected, and
+crumbling into hopeless decay, decypher some legible tale of probability,
+and unravel a leading clue to the history of these now inexplicable relics,
+will win and deserve the admiring gratitude of all, who are curious to
+investigate the ever changing aspects of human society.
+
+I had scarcely met with any thing, in all my rambles, more full of exciting
+interest, than the field I was now exploring; and I never so much regretted
+being alone. For a well read antiquarian to talk with--for a curioso in
+hieroglyphical lore to trace out the mystic lines, and give an intelligent
+signification to the grotesque images about me--I would have given my last
+maravedi, and the better half of my humble stock of provisions. Fragments
+of various kinds, and of every size and form, lay scattered around me, on
+every side, in the immediate vicinity of this "American Sphinx," affording
+in their shapes, though mutilated and imperfect, and in the lines of
+sculpture still traceable upon many of them, satisfactory _prima facie_
+evidence of having once composed the ornamental decorations of immense and
+splendid edifices, which now lay in utter ruins at my feet.
+
+The place where I stood had evidently been the site of a large city,
+thronged with busy multitudes of human beings, whose minds were cultivated
+and refined, whose hearts throbbed high with human affections, and human
+hopes, and who doubtless dreamed, as we do, that their works would make
+their names immortal. But where are they? A thousand echoes, from the hills
+and walls around, answer--_where_?
+
+[Illustration: AN ORNAMENTED HEAD.]
+
+Proceeding with my excavations, and turning over large masses of earth, and
+stones of every size and shape, I was at length rewarded with the discovery
+of another figure, somewhat resembling, but in many respects unlike, those
+which I have already shown. A sketch of it is given in the above engraving.
+It was merely the face, standing out in full relief from the block, which
+was entirely cut away from the top and bottom, but left, in two nearly
+circular projections, at the sides. The head ornaments are striking and
+peculiar. They are not, as might be supposed from their appearance in the
+reduced scale of the engraving, miniature heads. If they were, I should
+venture to find in them another item of Grecian mythology, and boldly
+assume that the head was that of Jupiter, with three young Minervas in the
+act of issuing from his pregnant brain. Nor would the appearance of three,
+instead of one, in any manner stagger my faith, since it is well known,
+that America exceeds all other parts of the world in human and animal
+fecundity, as well as in the fertility of its soil. And why not equally so
+in its mythological reproductions? But, alas! for one of the most promising
+theories that ever was conceived, these ornaments are only balls, with
+slight indentations, connected together by a band running across the top of
+the head, and terminating at the sides, just above the ears. A phrenologist
+might possibly discern in them, the overgrown diseased developments of the
+intellectual organs residing in that part of the cranium.
+
+The ears of this figure are monstrous, being nearly half the size of the
+face. The features, and the whole contour of the face, like the other two,
+will be seen to be entirely Caucasian, having no element of the Indian or
+American, in any of its lines. It is seventeen inches in length, twenty one
+in breadth, including the huge ears, and ten in thickness. It was found in
+the side of a large pile of ruins, the remains of dilapidated walls and
+buildings, of which it had evidently formed one of the ornamental parts.
+There were fragments of others of the same general character, but none in
+so good preservation as this, which require a distinct description.
+
+It required but a few days to examine this part of the country,--and I was
+really glad when the time expired;--for, besides the immense labor of
+cutting every step of our way through a dense shrubbery, which covers most
+of the country, and a wilderness of trees and thickets, matted and woven
+together with thousands of creepers, together with plants, rendered almost
+impenetrable by their thorns, which, like spears, would pierce at every
+movement,--we had also to contend with myriads of insects of which the
+reading world has already heard so much from learned travellers, that it
+might be deemed a work of supererogation to speak of them again, and which,
+it will be observed are herein named, only in connection with other
+obstacles of greater magnitude,--such as the poisonous tarantula, which is
+often disturbed from its stony bed, and the tiger of the country, sometimes
+started from the thickets! But, to be _deserted_ in this extremity, is a
+thing not easily to be borne. Yet so it was. My recently enlisted Indian
+comrades, being entirely out-done and astonished, gave me up as a wild or
+crazy man, and fled to their homes! Thus forsaken,--but not until after a
+week of research, I returned in safety to "the lady's room," where I found
+my Indian allies had arrived some days before me.
+
+While pursuing my solitary researches, after my aids had absconded, I was
+obliged to satisfy myself with such objects of curiosity as lay upon the
+surface, without any effort to remove obstructions, or excavate among the
+ruins. There was little to be gained in this way. Moreover, as I have
+hinted above, there was much discomfort, and no little danger, in remaining
+alone, as will be seen by the following incident.
+
+[Illustration: A SITUATION.]
+
+I had swung my hammock, as usual, between two trees, and, having lighted my
+watch-fires in the open space around, had passed a comfortable night, with
+no other intrusion than dreams of home, and the musical hum of musquitoes.
+Very early in the morning, I was startled by a rustling in the thicket near
+by. Lifting myself up, in some alarm, I was by no means gratified, or
+quieted, by the appearance of a full grown tiger, creeping stealthily along
+through the rank growth of grass and weeds, which skirted the thicket, and
+peering at me, as if he had not yet provided himself a breakfast. Happily,
+my fires were still burning, and the sight of them brought the intruder to
+a pause. I seized my gun, and made ready to give him the best reception in
+my power, in case he should show any disposition to cultivate a further
+acquaintance. In this situation, certainly not very agreeable to me,
+whatever it might have been to my unwelcome forest visitor, we remained
+more than two hours, intently eyeing each other, as if preparing for the
+deadly contest. They were hours of as painful and absorbing suspense, as
+any that I ever experienced. I had little doubt that one or the other of us
+must fall a sacrifice to this ill considered and unexpected meeting. But I
+was disappointed. Whether it was want of appetite, or a disrelish for the
+smoke of my watch-fires, or an instinctive apprehension of other fires, and
+a more distasteful smoke, in reserve for him, I know not, and did not care
+to ask him. But, after several times changing his position from side to
+side, as if seeking a favorable point of attack, he slunk away, as
+cautiously as he came, turning wistfully round several times, in his
+retreat, as if half resolved not to leave me, or somewhat suspicious that
+his escape would be interrupted. I had many misgivings about his return
+during the day, feeling that I would rather risk such a meeting in my
+hammock, guarded by the watch-fires, than in my solitary and unprotected
+rambles through the forest.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+VISIT TO THE ANCIENT TOWN OF PANUCO. RUINS. CURIOUS RELICS FOUND THERE.
+
+ The route.--Scenery.--The wild Fig Tree.--Panuco.--Its
+ history.--Present appearance of the town.--Language.--Ruins
+ in the vicinity.--Discovery of the sepulchral
+ effigy.--Description of it.--Situation in which it was
+ found.--Resemblance to figures on the tomb of the Knights
+ Templar.--A conjecture.--An influence.--A
+ conclusion.--Extensive ruins of Cerro Chacuaco, and other
+ places.--Vases found there.--Probably of modern date.
+
+
+During my sojourn in the interior, I made another exploring excursion, in
+order to visit the ancient town of Panuco; where I was received with the
+greatest kindness and hospitality, both by the white and the half-breed
+inhabitants of the place. My route lay along the banks of the river, and
+across the prairies; the common road being by a bridle path, through the
+woods, and never successfully travelled, but with the greatest care and
+watchfulness. The ranchos and milpas, (small farms) assumed a better
+appearance than was expected; and we passed several fields of ripe corn and
+cane, owned principally, by Indians. But even here, every thing, whether
+Indian or Mexican, wears a primitive look.
+
+Proceeding up the river, which retained its width of half a mile, we found
+the scenery on either side continually improving as we went, and opening
+new views of the most picturesque and romantic beauty. I visited many of
+the Indian huts that lay in our way, the occupants of which were very
+civil; but it was quite impossible here, as in other places, to convince
+the people, that acquisition of _gold_ was not the object of my visit,--a
+circumstance which may, perhaps, in some degree, account for the fact, that
+I could obtain from them so little information respecting the neighboring
+country.
+
+The wild fig-tree, which bears a small fruit, resembling that of the
+cultivated tree in Louisiana, grows here to a vast extent and beauty,
+having, from its wide-spreading branches, suckers, which hang down and
+touch the ground, where they take root and grow in size equal to the
+original trunk,--thus giving to the tree, the appearance of a frame house
+with supporters and rafters. This beautiful tree also resembles the Banyan
+of South America, and belongs to that class.
+
+There are, likewise, in this vicinity, many other trees of curious and rare
+growth, some of which, being filled with fruit and blossoms at the same
+time, present a most unusual and pleasing appearance. Others, adorned with
+parasitical plants, intertwined with graceful vines and fragrant with
+flowers, afford a paradise for birds of the most brilliant plumage, and
+give indescribable richness and beauty to the scene.
+
+Panuco is an old town of the _Huestacos_, and is subject to occasional
+inundations during the rainy season. According to Bernal Diaz, this is the
+place conquered by Cortes, at so great an expense of life and treasure. At
+the period of the conquest, this was a position of much consequence, as may
+be inferred from the fact, that the conqueror petitioned Charles the Fifth
+to add its government to that of New Spain. This request being granted, a
+garrison was accordingly placed there, and commended to the guardian care
+of _St. Stephen_,--a name which holds its influence there to the present
+day. It was the powerful and heroic race of the Huestacos that once dwelt
+here; a race so hated by the ruthless invaders of Mexico, that, if they had
+had power to accomplish their fiendish desire, not a vestige of that noble
+people would have been found remaining. But, even the wasting influences of
+time, and that desolating bigotry which rioted in the destruction of every
+thing that was not consecrated, or, more properly speaking, desecrated to
+the idolatry of Rome, has not been found sufficient to destroy the marks of
+their genius, or entirely to obliterate the memory of their deeds, and the
+monuments of their greatness. The remains of pyramids, dwellings, household
+utensils, ornaments and weapons, all tend to convince me that the arts once
+flourished upon the spot, where now dwells a listless, idle race of
+Mexicans, retrograding as the year rolls on, even more rapidly than the
+decay of the ruins around them.
+
+Panuco is the only town above Tampico, on the Panuco River, and contains
+only about four thousand inhabitants. It is beautifully located on the
+banks of the river, in the state of Vera Cruz, about thirty leagues from
+Tampico, by water, and fifteen by land. It is not laid out with any degree
+of regularity. The streets of the town look deserted, and wear a
+melancholy aspect. The houses are of bamboo, with mud walls, which have
+been once apparently white-washed, and thatched roofs. There are no public
+buildings, little or no business, and only a few shops, established chiefly
+for the sale of intoxicating liquors.
+
+The language spoken by the Indians, in this region, might, with much
+propriety, be termed an amalgamation of many different dialects, in which
+that of the Huestaco predominates. Father Tapia Zenteno, made an effort to
+render it into form;--but, he did not succeed very well,--the confusion of
+tongues being more than a match for his etymological skill. Indeed, I
+imagine there are few in this region, who would not faint under the task.
+It might well be taken for a modern representation of Babel, or, perhaps,
+for an abortive attempt to harmonize the discordant elements of that
+ancient Pandemonium of Tongues.
+
+The learned Mr. Gallatin, the venerable president of the "New York
+Historical Society," and of the "Ethnological Society of New York," has
+recently published in the "Proceedings" of the last mentioned body, a
+dissertation, in which he shows conclusively, that the languages of North
+and Central America, belong, grammatically, to the same family, however
+much they may differ in words.
+
+We have reason to be grateful, that the researches of the Antiquarian in
+our own country, have furnished the lovers of Ethnological lore, with much
+valuable material for the development of a science which has, within a few
+short years, arrived at an eminent degree of importance.
+
+[Illustration: SEPULCHRAL EFFIGY.]
+
+In the vicinity of the town of Panuco, are ruins of ancient places,
+scattered over an area of several miles. Their history is entirely unknown
+to the inhabitants; nor do any of them, as far as I could learn, manifest
+the slightest curiosity to ascertain who were the builders, or in what
+manner they have been exterminated from their ancient inheritance. I could
+not discover the trace of a tradition, or conjecture, on the subject, among
+any of the people, though I sought for it with great diligence.
+
+Several days were employed in exploring this neighborhood, our toils being
+lightened, occasionally, by the discovery of things new and strange. Among
+the rest, there was one, which I deem a very remarkable curiosity; so much
+so, that I shall satisfy myself with presenting that to the reader, as the
+sole representative of the ruins of this interesting spot. It was a
+handsome block, or slab of stone, of this form,
+
+[Illustration]
+
+measuring seven feet in length, with an average of nearly two and a half in
+width, and one foot in thickness. Upon its face, was beautifully wrought,
+in bold relief, the full length figure of a man, in a loose robe, with a
+girdle about his loins, his arms crossed on his breast, his head encased in
+a close cap, or casque, resembling the Roman helmet, (as represented in the
+etchings of Pinelli,) without the crest, and his feet and ankles bound with
+the ties of sandals.
+
+The edges of this block were ornamented with a plain raised border, about
+an inch and a half square, making a very neat and appropriate finish to the
+whole. The execution was equal to that of the very best that I have seen
+among the wonderful relics of this country, and would reflect no discredit
+upon the artists of the old world. Indeed, I doubt not, that the discovery
+of such a relic among the ruined cities of Italy or Egypt, would send a
+thrill of unwonted delight and surprise through all the marvel-hunting
+circles, and literary clubs, of Europe, and make the fortune of the
+discoverer. The figure is that of a tall, muscular man, of the finest
+proportions. The face, in all its features, is of the noblest class of the
+European, or Caucasian race. The robe is represented as made with full
+sleeves, and falling a little below the knees, exposes the fine proportions
+of the lower limbs.
+
+This block, which I regarded with unusual interest, and would by all means
+have brought away with me, if it had been in my power, I found lying on the
+side of a ravine, partially resting upon the dilapidated walls of an
+ancient sepulchre, of which nothing now remains but a loose pile of hewn
+stones. It was somewhat more than four feet below the present surface of
+the ground, and was brought to light in the course of my excavations,
+having accidently discovered a corner of the slab, and the loose stones
+about it, which were laid open by the rush of waters in the rainy season,
+breaking out a new and deep channel to the river. The earth that lay upon
+it was not an artificial covering. It bore every evidence of being the
+natural accumulation of time; and a very long course of years must have
+been requisite to give it so deep a burial.
+
+I caused the stone to be raised, and placed in a good position for drawing.
+The engraving on the opposite page is a correct and faithful sketch of this
+wonder of ancient American art, as I left it. Those of my readers who have
+visited Europe, will not fail to notice a resemblance between this, and the
+stones that cover the tombs of the Knights Templar, in some of the ancient
+churches of the old world. It must not be supposed, however strongly the
+prima facie evidence of the case may seem to favor the conjecture, that
+this resemblance affords any conclusive proof, that the work is of European
+origin, or of modern date. The material is the same as that of all the
+buildings, and works of art, in this vicinity, and the style and
+workmanship are those of the great unknown artists of the Western
+Hemisphere.
+
+According to Gomara, it was customary with the ancient Americans, to place
+the figure of a deceased king on the "chest" in which his ashes were
+deposited. Is it improbable, when we take into view the progress which the
+arts had made among these unknown nations, as evinced by the ruins I have
+recently visited, and others scattered over all this region, that this
+"chest" was sometimes, nay generally, of stone? That it was in fact, in the
+language of oriental antiquity, a sarcophagus? And is it not possible, that
+the tablet which I have here brought to light, is that of one of the
+monarchs of that unknown race, by whom all these works were constructed? I
+am strongly of opinion that it is so, and that a further and deeper
+exploration in the same vicinity, would discover other relics of the same
+kind, and open to the view of the explorer, the royal cemetery of one of
+the powerful nations of Anahuac.
+
+If I am justified in this conjecture,--and it is impossible to convey to
+the reader any adequate impression of the collateral and incidental
+evidences, which, to one on the spot, spring up at every step, to give
+color and support to such a conjecture,--then may I venture one step
+farther, and infer that the ruins of this vicinity, are those of a capital
+city, a royal residence of one of those ancient empires--the seat of its
+court--the place of the sepulchres of its kings. There is nothing either in
+the magnitude and extent of the ruins, or in the traces of elaborate art
+expended in their construction and finish, to throw a shade over such an
+inference. The area occupied by them is sufficiently vast for the
+metropolis of any empire, ancient or modern. The ruins are those which
+might have belonged to palaces and temples, as magnificent and extensive as
+any that have yet been discovered in the Western World. The style and
+finish of those that are sufficiently preserved to justify an opinion, are
+as elaborate and complete, as the most perfect specimens of ancient
+American art that have fallen under my observation. While the evidences are
+not slight, that a vast area of similar remains lies buried under the soil,
+which, for ages has been accumulating upon them, by natural deposit during
+the rainy seasons, and the gradual abrasion of the adjacent mountains.
+
+If the above inference be deemed admissible, it cannot be thought
+extravagant to conclude, that these ruins are of very ancient date, and
+belong to the history of a people, much older than any respecting whom we
+have any authentic records--a people who had probably passed away before
+the era of the Spanish conquest. It seems to me impossible to come to any
+other conclusion. And I cannot avoid expressing my surprise, at the
+apparent ease with which some writers have arrived at a different result.
+As an argument on the subject may not be acceptable to all my readers, I
+will not cumber this part of the work with any further speculations, but
+reserve them for a closing chapter, which can be omitted by those whose
+minds are made up, or who do not feel interested to go below the surface,
+in order to unravel the enigmas of time.
+
+There are other ruins, situated south of Panuco, at the distance of about
+three leagues. They are known as the ruins of "Cerro Chacuaco." They are
+represented as covering an extent of about three leagues square, with
+unquestionable evidence that they were all comprised within the bounds of
+one vast city. I may also mention those of "San Nicholas," distant five
+leagues on the south west, and those of "A la Trinidad," about six leagues
+in nearly the same direction. There are also other ruins, of which I
+obtained some information, at a still greater distance. Indeed, it would
+appear that the whole region is full of them, on every side--melancholy
+memorials of the immense numbers, as well as of the mighty power and wealth
+of the ill-fated race, that once flourished here. As far as I could rely
+upon the information received, all these ruins present the same general
+features, as those which I have already described. It is probable that they
+all belong to the same period, and were built by the same race; and the
+evidence is clear to my mind, that that race was much more ancient, and
+further advanced in the arts of civilized life, than any of the American
+races now remaining, or any whose history has come down to us.
+
+It was among the ruins of "Cerro Chacuaco," that the two vases represented
+below, were found. They are made of the common clay of the country, well
+wrought and handsomely formed, and could not have been made as they are,
+without some mechanical contrivance. The head on the first and larger one
+is decidedly that of the negro, with low, retreating forehead, flat nose,
+and thick lips. From this circumstance, I should judge it to be of recent
+origin, as there is no evidence that any of the African race were ever
+found in America, till they were introduced there as slaves in the
+sixteenth century. The natives, degraded as they are at the present day,
+are not unskilful in the manufacture of pottery, for common uses; and
+these, though of a higher finish than any that I have seen there, might
+have been lost, or left among the ruins, by some passing traveller. I am
+the more inclined to this opinion, from the circumstance that the people
+here take no interest whatever in examining the ruins, and would never
+think of going beneath the surface, to find anything that might be buried
+under them. I therefore conclude that these must have been found in some
+open place, above ground, where they could not have lain many years,
+without crumbling into decay.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+DISCOVERY OF TALISMANIC PENATES.--RETURN BY NIGHT TO TAMPICO.
+
+ Speculations upon the images.--Superstitious reliance of the
+ natives upon them in seasons of sickness.--Blending of
+ idolatries.--Clue to the solution of a great
+ problem.--Far-fetched theories.--The New World peopled from
+ the Old.--Similarity in the objects and forms of worship,
+ good evidence of similarity of origin.--Peculiar ugliness
+ and obesity of many of the idols of Asia.--Ugnee, of
+ Hindostan.--Gan, of China.--Fottei, of Japan.--Conclusion to
+ be drawn from these facts.--Confirmed by the claims of the
+ Chinese to the first discovery of America.--Still further by
+ the analogy between the languages of America and those of
+ Tartary.--Predilection of idolatry for ugliness.--Return by
+ night to Tampico.--Rumors of war.--French retailers.--Mexico
+ backing out.
+
+
+In the course of my explorations among these interesting and melancholy
+relics of by-gone ages, I discovered two very singular and grotesque
+looking images, which have given rise to no little speculation in my own
+mind. I have the pleasure of presenting, at the close of the chapter,
+correct drawings of these to the reader. The originals are deposited in the
+museum of the New York Historical Society. I had little doubt, when I
+discovered these images, that they once figured in the idolatrous worship
+of the aboriginal inhabitants of the country; but what place to assign them
+in that mysterious Pandemonium,--whether to call them god or devil, whether
+to class them with the deities that preside over the affections, or to give
+them rank with those of a more intellectual character, I have been utterly
+at a loss to conjecture. I have been somewhat inclined, of late, to lean to
+the opinion that they belong to the former class, as I found images of the
+same kind in use among the Indian women, who wore them suspended about
+their necks, and attributed to them something like a talismanic influence.
+They are especially relied upon in seasons of sickness,--but, whether
+supposed to have power to frighten away, by their pre-eminent ugliness, the
+ugliest shapes of disease, or to conciliate the genius of health, by
+awakening his sympathies for the dreadful ills which flesh is heir to, and
+the monstrous deformities in human frame, which are often the result of
+disease,--or whether the contemplation of them is intended to sustain and
+solace the sufferer, in any condition, however lamentable and hideous, to
+which she may have been reduced, by keeping continually before her eyes the
+representation of one more hideous and lamentable still, I was not able to
+determine; nor is it, perhaps, material to the interests of science or
+religion, or the melioration of suffering humanity in a more enlightened
+age, and among more civilized races of men, that this point should be
+settled beyond the possibility of a doubt; since it is by no means
+probable, even if it could be proved, by the most incontestable evidence of
+numberless personal certificates, and well authenticated cases of positive
+relief, or almost miraculous cures, that the ladies of our day, and in our
+highly favored country, could be induced to substitute them for the
+infallible, health-imparting, life-restoring panaceas, catholicons,
+medicated lozenges, sugar-crusted pills, vegetable anodyne restoratives,
+medicinal rejuvenescent cordials, magnetic rings, _et id omnes genus_,
+whose name is legion, promising immortal life and beauty to all who are so
+fortunate as to secure a seasonable share of their influence. It was not
+with any view to set up an opposition to this well disciplined army of the
+inveterate and the veteran enemies to the continued reign of death and
+disease in our world, that I brought home with me some of these remarkable
+images: nor is it with any hope of raising a successful competition with
+regularly-educated, duly licensed and long established physicians, whether
+of the old school or the new, whether they administer their homoeopathic
+infinitesmals upon the point of a cambric needle, or shovel in their
+allopathic doses by the cartload, that I have ventured upon this learned
+and profound disquisition upon the remarkable discovery, which it was my
+fortune to make. And I beg leave here to give due and solemn notice to all
+the world, that, if this singular accident should chance to be the means of
+introducing a new epoch in American therapeutics, I hold myself, my heirs,
+executors, administrators and assigns, utterly and for ever exempt from all
+and singular the consequences and results thereof.
+
+In the present use of these talismanic images, there is a very singular,
+and, I am inclined to think, an unexampled blending of the old pagan
+idolatry of the Indians, with the image worship of their newly adopted
+religion. They are all, as the reader is no doubt aware, regarded as
+converts to the Christian religion, under the instruction of the Priests of
+the Church of Rome. They are, for the most part, very scrupulous in
+observing all the customs and requirements of that church. The images I
+here refer to are hollow, with a small aperture near one of the shoulders.
+They are filled with balls, about as large as an ordinary pea, which are
+supposed to have been made of the ashes of victims sacrificed, in former
+days, to these gods. In this manner they were consecrated to demon-worship.
+Whether, in their present accommodation to a species of Christian idolatry,
+these balls are regarded as a substitute for "beads," or as "relics" of
+martyrs to a faith in an "unknown god" and an unknown form of worship, I am
+unable to say. I only know that the images, with their contents, are
+regarded with a profoundly superstitious interest, and relied upon in
+seasons of peculiar peril.
+
+It may, perhaps, be thought, that I am making too much capital out of a
+very trifling circumstance, if I should say, that in the course of my
+meditations upon these ugly little demons, I imagined I had found in them,
+the means of solving one of the great problems which have divided and
+perplexed philosophers, ever since the discovery of our continent. But I
+deny "the soft impeachment;" I protest strenuously against the unkind
+imputation. If the falling of an apple led Sir Isaac Newton to the
+discovery of one of the great first principles and fundamental laws of
+nature,--if the clattering of the lid of his mother's tea-kettle, unfolded
+to the inquisitive mind of Watt, the powers and mysteries of _steam_, that
+semi-omnipotent agent in the affairs of our little world,--if the earth's
+profile, as sketched on the disc of the moon in an eclipse, convinced the
+sagacious mind of Columbus, that he could get round on the other side,
+without danger of falling off,--who shall presume to say, that this
+discovery of a pair of ugly little personages, belonging to the system of
+idol divinities of an unknown race of people, will not prove to the
+inquiring mind of some other, though less profound philosopher, the clue by
+which the great mystery of their origin shall at length be effectually
+solved?
+
+I will not answer for it, that my theory in this case shall be as far
+fetched, ingenious or elaborate, as many others that have gained the favor
+and support of learned and worthy names. I only engage to make out as good
+a case as some of my predecessors in the same wide field;--those, for
+example, who have undertaken to show that the abroginal inhabitants of
+America, are the descendants of Abraham and probably the lost ten tribes,
+who were carried away into Assyria, in what is termed the first captivity
+under Shalmaneser. These learned theorists have considered their case
+fully, and incontestably made out, when they have discovered ten words in a
+thousand of the language, to bear some distant, and, in many cases,
+fanciful resemblance to words of the same import in the ancient Hebrew; or
+when they have traced, in their religious rites and usages, some slight
+analogies with the imposing ceremonials of the Mosaic ritual. In drawing
+their sage conclusions from these attenuated premises, they have not
+troubled themselves to consider what an overwhelming effect it would have
+upon their theory, to weigh the nine hundred and ninety words in a
+thousand, which have not the most distant resemblance to the Hebrew, or the
+multitude of idolatrous rites, and heathenish mummeries, which were utterly
+and irreconcilably at variance with the spirit and letter of the ancient
+Scriptures. It is easy enough to make a theory, and to support it manfully,
+as long as you can keep your eyes shut to every fact that militates against
+it. But alas! the great majority of such creations vanish as soon as the
+eyes are opened, even as the pageant of a dream vanishes before the morning
+light.
+
+But, not to lose sight of my own good theory, let us return to my little
+images, and to the thoughts which they have suggested, in relation to the
+long agitated, and still unsettled question of the origin of the first
+inhabitants of this continent. In the first place,--I take it for granted,
+that the new world, as it is called, was peopled from the old. For, no one
+who takes the Bible as his guide, will suppose that more than one pair was
+created, or doubt that the residence of that first pair, and their
+immediate descendants, was in Asia. And if any one rejects the testimony of
+the Bible, my argument is not intended for him.
+
+In the second place,--it will be admitted that a close correspondence in
+the forms of worship, and in the appearance and character of the objects of
+worship, is one of the best grounds for supposing a similarity of origin in
+any two races of people. There is scarcely any thing of which nations are
+more tenacious, and by which they can be more safely recognized and
+identified, than the forms and ceremonies of their religion. Strange and
+inexpicable as it is, they change oftener and more easily in matters of
+_Faith_, than in matters of _Form_. Nearly three thousand years ago, it was
+laid down as a principle not to be questioned, that the religion of a
+people, especially of idolaters, was not liable to sudden and voluntary
+change. _Pass over the isles of Chittim and see, and send unto Kedar, and
+consider diligently, and see if there be any such thing. Hath a nation
+changed their gods, which are yet no gods? But my people have changed their
+glory for that which doth not profit._
+
+Now, to bring these principles to bear upon the object I have in view, let
+it be observed,--First, that, in the mythology of all the pagan nations, in
+Asia, many of the idols they worship, are the most monstrous and hideous
+deformities imaginable. Ugliness, in every conceivable shape, is deified.
+Secondly,--some of the ugliest of these deities are distinguished for their
+obesity. Thirdly,--as an example of these, take _Ugnee_, the regent of
+fire, among the Hindoos, who is represented as a very corpulent man, riding
+on a goat, with copper colored eye brows, beard, hair and eyes. His
+corpulency is held by the Brahmins, as an indication of his _benevolence_,
+and his readiness to grant the desires of his worshippers. Fourthly,--among
+the idols of China, some are described as monstrous figures, hideous to
+behold. Among the number is _Gan_, who has a broad face, and a prodigious
+great belly. Fifthly,--_Fottei_, who is sometimes called _Miroku_, one of
+the best, and most prominent of the Japanese deities, is represented with
+the same deformity, a huge distended belly. Another circumstance, not
+inapposite to our purpose is this, that the worshippers of _Miroku_, in
+Japan, expect to receive from his benevolent assistance, among other good
+things, _health_, riches, and _children_.
+
+Now, put these facts together, and associate with them the facts of the
+existence of similar images of worship among the natives of America, and of
+the reliance of those natives upon them for aid in times of sickness, and
+will it not go far to prove a positive relationship between them and the
+inhabitants of Hindostan, China, or Japan? I trust no one will presume to
+dispute it, after the pains I have taken, and the learning and research I
+have displayed in proving it. The problem of ages may be considered as
+settled. It is no longer a vexed question.
+
+The reader will be pleased to observe, that the Japanese god Miroku, is
+expected to give to his votaries _health_ and _children_. Does not this
+last circumstance bear with unanswerable weight and significancy, upon my
+position; and prove, beyond the possibility of doubt or peradventure, that
+the Aborigines of America, emigrated from Japan? The images which I have
+discovered, and which form the subject of this erudite disquisition, are
+worn, as I have before remarked, by the _women_ of America, in the time of
+sickness. Now, it is an established fact, that, in all nations and in all
+ages, the one great and laudable desire of woman is, that she may be
+blessed with children. For this she suffers, and for this she prays. The
+reliance, therefore, of the women of Japan and the women of America, upon
+these ugly-looking, corpulent little demons, to assist them in attaining
+this one prevalent, paramount desire, establishes the sameness of their
+origin, and leaves no lingering doubt in my mind, and, of course, none in
+the mind of the intelligent and candid reader, that, wherever the _men_ of
+those almost exterminated races may have come from, they certainly brought
+their _wives_ from Japan.
+
+If it were desirable to go farther to prove my point, I might allude for
+strong confirmation, to the fact, as laid down in an old writer, that the
+Chinese claim to have discovered America, more than two hundred years
+before Columbus attempted to cross the Atlantic. It was in the year 1270,
+that China was overrun by the Tartars; and it is given out, that a body of
+one hundred thousand inhabitants, refusing obedience to their new masters,
+set sail, in one thousand ships, to find a new country, or perish in the
+enterprise. The origin of Mexico is thus accounted for. And nothing is more
+natural than to suppose, that, in making up so magnificent an expedition,
+they would find some of their Japanese neighbors desirous to accompany
+them.
+
+In addition to this, the learned philologists, who have investigated the
+languages of the Aboriginal nations, with a view to tracing their origin,
+have found, in the names of places and things, many striking
+correspondencies with the language of Japan. And Barton, one of our own
+countrymen, has published a very elaborate treatise on the subject, in
+which he undertakes, and, as he thinks, successfully, to prove, that the
+language originally spoken in both the Americas, are radically one and the
+same with those of the various nations, which are known by the general name
+of Tartars.
+
+Having got my hand in, and feeling somewhat encouraged by the singular
+success of the above triumphant philosophical disquisition, I am strongly
+tempted to trespass upon the patience of the reader, while I proceed to
+inquire into the probable reasons why the worshippers of idols, who have
+the choosing of their own gods, so generally delight in those of grotesque
+and ugly shapes, and unseemly proportions. Since our fellow-creatures, even
+our wives and our children, are loved and cherished in proportion as they
+are rendered lovely to the sight by the graces of form, feature, complexion
+and expression, how happens it that those objects of adoration, who are
+supposed to preside over and control the interest and destinies of men, in
+all their relations to each other, and the dearest objects of their
+affections, should be clothed in forms of the most unnatural and disgusting
+appearance? But I forbear.
+
+I had passed several days among the ruins of Panuco. They were days of
+unusual mental excitement, and bodily fatigue. There was enough around me
+to occupy and interest me many days longer. But I was unprepared for the
+investigation. I had gratified, but by no means satisfied, my curiosity;
+and my attention was now necessarily turned from the sepulchres of the
+dead, towards the dwellings of the living. I gathered up my little stock of
+relics, consisting chiefly of idol images, found among the dilapidated
+temples and dwellings of the departed, and, with no little difficulty,
+conveyed them in safety to "the lady's room." Taking a last farewell of
+this apartment, and of the friends who entertained me there, I betook
+myself again to my canoe, bestowing my little demons carefully in the
+bottom, and covering them, with my hammock, and other travelling apparatus.
+The voyage down the river was as quiet and beautiful as can be conceived.
+The greater part of it was performed at night, under favor of a full moon,
+through fear of being surprised by the natives, who, in that event, either
+from superstition or jealousy, would, no doubt, have deprived me of my
+small collection of idols.
+
+[Illustration: TRAVELLING BY NIGHT.]
+
+I arrived at Tampico in the early part of April. Mine host of the French
+Hotel was as ready to receive me, as on my first arrival in the city, and
+his "accommodations" were equally inviting. The city was in a state of
+considerable excitement, in consequence of the daily expectation of the
+declaration of War by France. The Mexican Congress had, sometime before,
+passed a law, forbidding any foreigner to carry on a retail business in
+Mexico, after a certain specified time, on peril of confiscation. This law
+deeply affected the interests of a considerable number of Frenchmen, who,
+under the protection of the previous statutes, had established themselves
+in the country, investing their little all in the retail business. It was,
+in fact, a decree of banishment, without any alleged fault on their part,
+and with the certain sacrifice of all their property.
+
+The day arrived when the invidious law was to go into effect. The French
+retailers, acting under instructions from their government, and a promise
+of protection in any event, took a careful inventory of their goods, locked
+up their stores, placed the keys, with the certified inventory, in the
+hands of their Consuls, and waited the result. It was a quiet and dignified
+movement on the part of France, a sort of silent defiance which could not
+be misunderstood. But it was amusing to witness the different effects of
+this state of things, upon the different classes of French residents. Some
+of them, with an air of perfect nonchalance, as if fearing no power on
+earth, and knowing no anxiety beyond the present moment, improved the
+season as a holyday, a sort of carnival extraordinary, devoted to visiting,
+dancing, and all kinds of sports. Others, of a more mercurial temperament,
+blustered about the streets, flourishing their arms with the most violent
+gesticulations, scowling fearfully, swearing huge oaths of vengeance, and
+seemingly taking the entire affairs of the two nations into their own
+hands. It was a windy war. And sure I am, if the Mexican rulers had seen
+the fuming, and heard the sputtering of all these miniature volcanoes, they
+would have felt the seat of power tremble beneath them.
+
+The result of this movement proved, as thousands of similar movements have
+done before, that "wisdom is better than weapons of war." The Mexicans were
+completely _non-plus'd_. The offensive law was not violated in any case,
+and they had no handle for a further act of oppression. The foreign
+residents only stood on the defensive, and thus put the government in the
+wrong. They felt their position, and made a precipitate retreat. After a
+few days of awkward dalliance, they issued new instructions to the local
+authorities, informing them that they had misinterpreted the law, and
+misunderstood its purport. It was thus virtually abrogated, and the
+business of foreigners has since been suffered to flow on in its ordinary
+channels.
+
+It is not, perhaps, quite as awkward a matter for a _nation_ to _back out_
+from the position it has deliberately taken with reference to another, as
+for an _individual_ to find himself compelled to do the same thing with
+reference to his antagonist. The responsibility is divided among so
+many--the body politic having no soul of its own--that there can be little,
+if any, personal feeling in the matter. And patriotism, which is a personal
+virtue wherever it exists, has generally so little to do with such
+movements, that we leave it out of the question altogether. But, agreeable
+or disagreeable, backing out is the only safe course, where the weak have
+given offence to the strong. It is a position and a movement that poor,
+divided, distracted Mexico, has become quite familiar with. And there is
+good reason to apprehend that she will yet have more experience of the same
+kind. Her present relations to the United States, and the ground she has
+taken in reference to the independence and annexation of Texas, leave
+little room for doubt, that she will, ere long, take another lesson in the
+tactics of retreat. As long as private ends are to be promoted by it, or
+the interests of a political clique advanced, so long she will bluster and
+threaten. More than this she will never even attempt to do. For the most
+selfish of her political leaders, and the most violent of her blustering
+patriots, knows too much to stake his all, and the all of his country, upon
+the cast of a die, which might, by possibility, turn up a war with the
+United States.
+
+The probability is, with regard to this very law, of which I have before
+spoken, that it was never intended to go into full effect. It was a mere
+money-getting experiment--a contrivance to levy black mail, in the name of
+the state, upon the foreign residents. They took it for granted, while
+passing the law, that the parties against whose interests it was aimed,
+would at once propose to buy off, and that large bribes would be offered to
+secure exemption from its effects. And the only chagrin they experienced,
+in finding themselves out-generaled by a sagacious adversary, arose from
+the necessity of relinquishing the expected booty.
+
+But let me not longer detain the reader from his promised introduction to
+the Talismanic Images, the ugly little divinities of the ancient dames of
+Anahuac. _Ecce Dii Penates!_
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+EXCURSION ON THE TAMISSEE RIVER. CHAPOTÉ, ITS APPEARANCE IN THE LAKES AND
+THE GULF OF MEXICO.
+
+ Once more in a canoe.--The Tamissee river.--Fertility of its
+ banks.--Wages on the plantations.--Magnificent
+ trees.--Mounds on Carmelote creek.--Entertained by a
+ Yankee.--Character and condition of the people.--The
+ Chapoté--Observed on the lakes in the interior of
+ Mexico.--Seen also in the Gulf.--Article in Hunt's
+ Merchants' Magazine.--Speculations of the writer upon the
+ Gulf Stream.--Supposed connection with the Pacific
+ ocean.--Objections to this theory.--Another view of the
+ matter.--Insects.--Return to Tampico. The city in mourning.
+
+
+It was not enough for me to know that I had _arrived_ at Tampico. I soon
+became uneasy; and, being desirous to make the best use of my time, my
+thoughts were immediately turned upon resuming my paddle in some other
+direction. Accordingly, in the evening of an early day, I found myself once
+more in a canoe, with an Indian for a companion, going up the Tamissee
+River, for the purpose of visiting the creeks that empty into it at
+different points, and of ascertaining what ruins might be found in their
+vicinity.
+
+This river rises at the foot of the mountains near Victoria, and falls into
+the Panuco at Tampico. It is navigable about forty leagues, for any vessel
+that can pass the bar, at which the depth of water is only eight or nine
+feet. The average depth of the stream is eight fathoms,--and a ship of a
+hundred guns, might haul up close to the side of its banks. This river
+rises and falls but little, and there are no towns situated upon its
+margin. Its crystal waters are well stocked with fish, of various kinds.
+The scenery, on either side, is exceedingly beautiful, opening
+occasionally, as you pass along, the most picturesque landscapes, and then
+completely embowering you in the shade of the luxuriant trees, that
+overhang the stream.
+
+The borders of the Tamissee, with a soil of exceeding richness and
+fertility, are under Indian cultivation, and supply the market of Tampico
+with fruit and vegetables. The plantain is in great request there, and
+plantations for cultivating it are numerous and extensive. Its growth is
+luxuriant, and its flavor particularly rich and agreeable. Sugar cane grows
+almost spontaneously, and in such abundance that credulity itself is
+staggered at the thought. One planting, without further care or labor, is
+all that it requires of human attention, for fifteen or twenty years. I
+measured a cane which had been planted nine years. It was vigorous and
+thrifty, as if of last year's planting, had grown to the enormous length of
+twenty-one feet, and exhibited forty-five joints. The product of the juice,
+though not perhaps in full proportion to the size of the plant, is much
+greater than that of the ordinary cane. Thirty-two gallons of the juice
+will yield no less than twelve pounds of sugar. This is considered only a
+fair average. That this gigantic cane is in very tall company, will be seen
+from the fact that the bamboo, which I have often measured, grows to the
+height of sixty feet.
+
+Wages, on these plantations, including the amount of one dollar allowed in
+rations of corn, are seven dollars per month, which, if properly husbanded,
+and prudently expended, would afford a comfortable subsistence to the
+laborer. But the Indians, who perform all this kind of labor, are, as I
+have before had occasion to remark, proverbially lazy and shiftless. Great
+difficulty is experienced, in all this country, in keeping them steadily at
+any kind of work. To find one of them so industrious and thoughtful, as to
+have any thing in advance of the absolute wants of the day, would be matter
+of astonishment. They work only when they are hungry, and stop as soon as
+they are fed. The instincts of nature alone can rouse them to make any
+exertion, unless compelled by some superior force, or a contract from which
+they cannot escape.
+
+The price of the ordinary sugar, in this vicinity, is only about two cents
+per pound; but the clay-clarified is worth from twelve to fourteen cents, a
+price which, it would seem, would amply remunerate the manufacturer. And
+yet I do not know of an establishment of the kind in any section of this
+country. If any enterprising Yankee should take the hint, and realize a
+fortune in the enterprise, I trust he will bear in mind, as he retires,
+that "one good turn deserves another."
+
+In pursuing my different routes through the woods, and along the water
+courses, of Mexico, I have often been struck with the immense size, and
+luxuriant foliage of the trees. The Banyan, or wild fig, in particular--of
+which I had occasion to take some notice before--with its numerous gigantic
+trunks, propping up its great lateral branches, from which they had
+originally descended in slender suckers, often covers an immense area.
+Possessing within itself the material for a vast forest, it presents to the
+beholder a magnificent and imposing spectacle. From some points of view,
+when favorably situated, it has the aspect of a vast natural temple, with
+its "long drawn aisles" and its almost endless colonnades supporting a roof
+overgrown with trees, and walls hung with clustering vines. The gloomy
+recesses within, would seem a fitting altar-place for the bloody rites of
+that dark idolatry, which once overshadowed these beautiful regions.
+
+The fan palm, called here _palma real_ or royal palm, rises from seventy to
+eighty feet in height. It is a magnificent tree, and whether seen in
+clusters, or alone, is always beautiful. With its tall straight trunk, and
+its richly tufted crown of fringed leaves, waving and trembling in every
+breath of air that stirs, and glistening in the sun with a beautiful
+lustre, it has a glory and a grace peculiar to itself. It was so abundant
+in this region, at the time of the conquest, that the Panuco was then
+called the Rio des Palmas, the River of Palms. A great variety of other
+trees are met with here, of magnificent size and splendid foliage, waving
+their brilliant branches in the breeze, and presenting strong inducements
+to the traveller continually to pause in wonder and admiration. In good
+sooth, it may be said that "man is the only thing that dwindles here."
+
+Having hauled up under a tree, made fast our canoe, and spread my blanket
+over me, I passed a comfortable night, as I had often done before, in the
+same primitive way. In the morning, I continued on my way two or three
+leagues farther up the river, where I found ruins, similar, in their
+general character, to those I have already described. They covered a
+considerable space, and were buried in some places, beneath masses of
+vegetable mould, and in others, overgrown with trees of immense size and
+great age. I wandered up and down among them, for a considerable time,
+sometimes cutting my way through the thick forest, and sometimes clambering
+over piles of broken stones, and long dilapidated walls, till I was quite
+weary with my labors. But I made no discoveries of sufficient interest to
+require a particular description. Every thing was so utterly ruinous, that
+it was impossible to trace out the lines of a single building, or determine
+the boundaries of the city, in any direction.
+
+Some distance farther up, on Carmelote Creek, there are other ruins, in the
+midst of which there are seventeen large mounds, of a somewhat peculiar
+construction. Though in a pretty good state of preservation, I found that
+the walls were not built of stone. I penetrated one of them to some
+distance, but discovered nothing but earth and mortar, and broken pieces of
+pottery, with a few rude specimens of carved images, cut in concrete
+sandstone. Some of the latter were as large as life. One of these I brought
+away with me; also several fragments of Penates, some of which are
+represented in the engraving at the close of this chapter.
+
+The mortar in these mounds seems to have been placed in layers at the
+bottom of the walls, but for what purpose I could not discover. It was not
+used as a cement, for, as I have said, there were no stones to be cemented.
+It was my opinion that these mounds were erected as places of burial, but
+there were no bones to be found, nor other traces of human remains.
+
+At night, I came to a house, which seemed more like home than any thing I
+had seen in Mexico. The very sight of it was refreshing to the traveller.
+The arrangements were all made with good taste and judgment, and a due
+regard to comfort. The grounds were pleasantly laid out, and beautifully
+ornamented with trees and flowers. On inquiry, I learned, as might have
+been expected, that this inviting looking place was built and occupied by a
+thriving Yankee, who had brought with him to Mexico his good notions of
+husbandry and house-keeping. He gave me a hearty welcome to his house, and
+entertained me, for the night, with the greatest kindness and hospitality.
+If there were a few more such hospitable, home-like resting-places,
+distributed here and there among these interesting regions, it would be
+vastly more agreeable and comfortable to the jaded traveller, who attempts
+to explore their time-honored ruins.
+
+The native Mexicans, in these parts, are an indolent, haughty, overbearing
+race. Still adhering to the barbarous policy of old Spain, they hold the
+people of every nation except their own, however much they may be in
+advance of them, in utter contempt. They are decidedly the most
+disagreeable class of people in this country. There is little intelligence
+or information among them. Education is at a very low ebb. There are some
+bright exceptions to this general remark; but they are lamentably few and
+far between. Whether a good school-master would be well sustained in this
+region, is a question which I am not prepared to answer; but certain I am
+he would find ample scope for the exercise of his vocation--a native soil
+wholly unoccupied, except with weeds.
+
+In pursuing my adventures, I stopped frequently at the different _milpas_
+that lay in the way; but nothing like thrift or comfort was any where
+visible. A rude hovel with mud walls, and a single room, is all they aspire
+to, in the way of a dwelling. The land is rich and fruitful to excess, and
+the lounging, listless Indian is the only insurmountable obstacle to its
+profitable cultivation and improvement. In the hands of our southern
+planters, or of the sturdy farmers of the northern and western states, this
+whole region would become a paradise of perennial fruits and flowers, and
+teem with the golden treasures of every clime under heaven.
+
+In some of the fresh water lakes, in the interior, the "chapoté," a species
+of asphaltum, is found bubbling up to the surface. When washed upon the
+borders, it is gathered, and used as a varnish upon the bottoms of canoes.
+It has a peculiar pungent smell, like that of liquid asphaltum, and
+possesses, I think, some of its qualities. I have observed a remarkable
+phenomenon, of the same kind, out of sight of land, in the Gulf of Mexico,
+where the waters bubble up in the same manner, and accompanied with a
+similar smell. There can be no doubt that the ebullition and effluvia
+observed in the Gulf, are the effect of the same cause, which produces the
+asphaltic substance on the surface of the Lakes.
+
+This Asphaltic deposite in the Gulf, it appears, has attracted the notice
+of others, and from it a theory has recently been formed, to account for
+that hitherto unexplained, or not satisfactorily explained phenomenon, the
+Gulf Stream. The article appears in the August number of Hunt's Merchant's
+Magazine. As I had remarked upon the circumstance before that article was
+published, and furnished my remarks to the writer, as a confirmation of his
+statements, each of them having been made without a knowledge of the other,
+I think it not amiss to present, in this place, the substance of his
+theory, and the reasons upon which it is founded. I shall then have an
+opinion of my own to present, which differs materially from his.
+
+The opinion of the writer is, that the Gulf Stream is not caused by the
+trade winds forcing into the Caribbean Sea, between the South Caribbee
+Islands and the coast of South America, a large quantity of water which can
+only find vent into the North Atlantic, by the Florida channel. In his
+view, there are serious objections to this theory. First, the water in the
+Gulf Stream is hotter than that of any part of the Atlantic, under the
+equator, and therefore it cannot be that, which supplies this never failing
+current. Secondly, the water of the Stream is hotter in deep water, where
+the current begins, or rather where it has become regular and strong, than
+it is in the Gulf, on soundings, where there is little or no current,
+indicating that it comes not from the shores, but from the bottom in deep
+water.
+
+Thirdly, the appearance, in the Gulf, of bubbles of asphaltum constantly
+rising to the surface, and spread over it for a considerable distance. It
+has been collected in quantities sufficient to cover vessels chains, and
+other portions of the equipments. It is of a bituminous character,
+offensive to the smell, and becomes hard on exposure to the sun, forming a
+durable varnish, and doing better service on iron than any paint.
+
+Fourthly, the volume of the Gulf Stream is sometimes so great, that the
+Florida channel is not sufficient to give it outlet, and the excess passes
+off to the south of the Island of Cuba. This has been noticed to such an
+extent, that vessels, in sailing across from Cape Catoche, the eastern
+extremity of Yucatan, to Cape Corientes or Antonio, are often driven by it
+very much to the eastward of their course. It is manifest that such a
+current could not exist, if the Gulf Stream were supplied by waters driven
+from that direction, as the two currents would counteract and destroy each
+other.
+
+From these premises, the inference of the writer is, that nothing less than
+an ocean subsidiary to the Atlantic could supply the immense quantity of
+water, which is continually flowing out of the Gulf, with the force of an
+independent stream. And because this portion of the Atlantic is separated
+from the Pacific only by a narrow Isthmus, and the water in the Pacific is
+known to be constantly higher than that in the Atlantic, a passage under
+the Isthmus would necessarily create a powerful current. This passage he
+supposes to exist, to afford the supply necessary to keep the Gulf Stream
+perpetually in action. And, as the regions through which the supposed
+passage is formed, are known to be volcanic, the supposition accounts for
+the high temperature of the water, as well as for the force of the current.
+
+With regard to the temperature of the water in the stream, it is stated,
+that its average, off the Capes of Florida, is 86°, and in latitude 36, it
+is 81°; while the mean temperature of the atmosphere, under the equator, is
+74°, and of the water of the Atlantic, in the same place, not above 60°. It
+appears, then, that the water of the Stream, in passing out of the Gulf is
+some 26° hotter than that of the ocean, which, under the old theory, is
+supposed to supply it.
+
+There is an error, either of the author, or of the printer, in these
+figures. The temperature of the Gulf Stream is correctly given; but he has
+evidently placed that of the ocean under the tropics, too low. It does not
+materially affect his argument, however, since it is undoubtedly a fact,
+notwithstanding the assertions of another writer, who has undertaken to
+reply to the article in question, that the water of the Gulf Stream, after
+it leaves the tropics, is warmer by some degrees, than the average of any
+part of the ocean under the tropics. On this point, the argument in Hunt's
+Magazine will not, I imagine, be controverted.
+
+The suggestion, that the water which constitutes this stream, is derived
+from the Pacific, forced by its superior elevation there, through a
+subterranean passage, across or under the Isthmus, is certainly original,
+and ingenious. But, to my view, it is liable to as many objections, as the
+old one which it is intended to displace. It is indeed, as the writer says,
+a bold conjecture, having nothing to support it, except the volume of water
+required for the constant supply of the great stream, and the asphaltic
+ebullition, which first suggested the theory, and gave rise to the
+discussion. Both these circumstances, I imagine, can be disposed of in a
+very satisfactory manner, without resorting to the supposition of this
+mysterious communication between the two great oceans.
+
+It is, in my view, a serious objection to the above-named theory, that
+there is no evidence whatever, on the Pacific coast, of any such submarine
+discharge of its surplus waters, as is here supposed. The natural, and
+almost inevitable effect of such an offlet would be the formation, at the
+place of discharge, of a mighty whirlpool, another Maelstrom, whose wide
+sweeping eddies would gather into its fearful vortex, and swallow up in
+inevitable destruction, whatever should venture within the reach of its
+influence. Whether such a phenomenon exists on that coast, I do not know;
+but it certainly is not described in any geography, nor laid down on any
+atlas, which has ever fallen under my notice.
+
+Another objection, almost, if not quite as fatal to this "bold conjecture,"
+is the fact, that upon the established and well known principles of
+hydrostatic pressure, a discharge, such as is here supposed, could not long
+continue without reducing the two oceans to the same level. The immense
+volume of the discharge which requires such a conjecture to account for it,
+would surely, in the long course of ages, exhaust the surplus in the
+Pacific, and then the stream would cease to flow. So that the fact of the
+Pacific still maintaining its elevation, would seem to be conclusive
+evidence that no such equalizing communication exists.
+
+It may be further argued against this new theory, and it seems to me with
+great plausibility, that the appearance of the "chapoté" on the surface of
+the inland lakes, demonstrates the inconclusiveness of the main inference,
+on which the theory is based. Wherever the supposed subterranean passage
+may be, the volcanic fires, which are supposed to heat the water, and to
+furnish the asphaltic element, must necessarily lie below it; while the
+passage itself must, with equal certainty, lie below the bottom of the
+lakes. Now, if the asphaltic ebullition finds its way up through the lakes,
+would it not, certainly, and from necessity, carry the water along with it?
+And should we not expect to find a jet of salt water in the midst of the
+lake, or such an infusion of salt as to change the character of the lake?
+
+If it be replied to this, that the level of the lake is higher than that of
+the sea, another, and equally formidable difficulty will result. For, as
+water must always find its level, through the same opening by which the
+asphaltum rises, the water of the lake would inevitably leak out, and lose
+itself in the mighty current.
+
+While, therefore, I am, equally with the writer in the Merchants' Magazine,
+dissatisfied with the old theory of water from the south, forced into the
+Gulf by the trade winds, and compelled to find a northern outlet--which,
+from the nature of the case, the formation of the land, and the ordinary
+phenomena of the seas where it is held to originate, appears, at the first
+blush, absurd and impossible. I am constrained to say that his "bold
+conjecture" deserves no better name than he has given it. My own view of
+the case is, that the true cause of this singular phenomenon must be sought
+in the bottom of the Gulf itself--in a perpetual submarine volcano, which,
+like a gigantic cauldron, is for ever sending up to the surface its heated
+currents, mingled with bituminous ebullition from the heart of the earth. I
+have taken some pains to examine the water in the immediate vicinity of
+these asphaltic bubbles, and have found it always considerably warmer than
+in any other part of the Gulf. It did not occur to me then, to compare it
+with the known temperature of the stream, after it is formed into a
+current; but I have no doubt that it will be found so to agree, as to
+afford substantial confirmation to these views.
+
+Neither the ebullition here spoken of, nor the idea of submarine volcanoes
+in the Gulf, is intended to be presented as any thing new. The former was
+observed, and commented upon, by several of the early voyagers, who
+followed in the track of Columbus, more than three hundred years ago. It
+was then attributed to the existence of volcanic fires beneath the bed of
+the ocean. The latter is an opinion long since put forth, by some shrewd
+observer, I know not whom, in whose mind the insuperable objections to the
+old theory created a necessity for another and a better. Whether it is the
+true one, it is perhaps impossible for human sagacity to say. But that it
+is far more plausible, and more consistent with all the known facts in the
+case, than the other, I think, cannot be denied.
+
+The insects in this region are inconceivably numerous and annoying,--so
+much so, that I was actually compelled to relinquish my researches; not
+however, until I had very little reason to anticipate any thing more of
+interest.
+
+Thus defeated, I changed my course; and, turning the head of my canoe
+towards home, was once again in Tampico, but apparently not in the same
+city, of that name, which I had so recently left, to perform my pilgrimage
+to the cities of the dead.
+
+The place was enveloped in deep mourning. The shops were closed, colors
+were hanging mournfully at half-mast, and the officers of the Mexican army
+were engaged in suspending effigies in various parts of the town, on which
+the zealous population might vent their pious spite. It was Good Friday;
+and the effigies thus exposed to the brunt of a well meant, but harmless
+popular indignation, were intended as representatives of Judas Iscariot.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF MEXICO, PAST AND PRESENT. SKETCH OF THE CAREER OF SANTA
+ANNA.
+
+ Ancient Mexico.--Its extent.--Its capital.--Its
+ government.--Its sovereigns.--The last of a series of
+ American Monarchies.--Some evidences of this.--Great
+ antiquity of some of the ruins.--Population of Mexico.--Its
+ government as a colony.--The Revolution.--Its
+ leaders.--Iturbide.--Distracted state of the country.--Santa
+ Anna.--His public career.--Pedraza.--Guerrero.--Barradas at
+ Tampico.--Defeated by Santa Anna.--Bustamente.--Pedraza
+ again.--Santa Anna made President.--Revolt of Texas and
+ Yucatan.--Battle of San Jacinto.--Santa Anna a
+ prisoner.--Released, returns in disgrace.--Out again.--Loses
+ a leg.--Dictator.--President.--Put down by
+ Paredes.--Banished.--Probable result.--The Press.--Departure
+ for home.
+
+
+Hanging Judas Iscariot in effigy, eighteen centuries after he had hung
+himself in despair for his treachery, and raising a monumental tablet to
+Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, seemed to me to be somewhat incongruous
+amusements. But these Mexicans will have their way, however strange it may
+be. Leaving them to choose for themselves, in these matters, I propose,
+before taking leave of Tampico, to give a brief sketch of the history and
+present condition of Mexico, and of the career of the singular man, who has
+acted so prominent a part in the revolutions which have recently convulsed
+that unhappy country.
+
+The ancient Mexico was comprised within much narrower limits, than those
+which now bound the Republic. Yet, owing to the remarkable formation of the
+country, beginning with its low plains, and tropical valleys along the sea
+board, and gradually ascending, plateau above plateau, into the region of
+perpetual winter, it embraced every variety of climate, and yielded almost
+every production, that was known on the face of the earth.
+
+In the midst of one of the most beautiful and luxuriant plateaus, situated
+midway between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and measuring a little more
+than two hundred miles in circumference, with lofty, snow-crowned walls on
+every side, stood the Queen City, Tenochtitlan, now called Mexico, the
+metropolis of the Aztec empire, the seat of civilization, of art, of
+luxury, of refinement--"the Venice of the Western world." It was founded in
+the early part of the fourteenth century, and soon became the seat of a
+flourishing empire, and the central point of power to a triad of nations.
+Mexico, Tezcuco, and Tlacopan, bound together by a league of perpetual
+amity, which was faithfully maintained and preserved through a long period
+of unexampled warfare, subdued to their united sway, all the neighboring
+tribes and nations of Anahuac. In process of time, the power and influence
+of Mexico overtopped that of its confederates, and Tezcuco and Tlacopan
+became little better than tributaries to the central empire of the
+Montezumas.
+
+The government of this ancient empire was an absolute monarchy, and was
+maintained in a style of truly Oriental pomp and magnificence. Their
+monarch supported his state with all the proud dignity, and stately
+ceremonial of the most refined courts of the old world. His attendants were
+princes, who waited on him with the most obsequious deference. The form of
+presentation was much the same as now prevails in the royal saloons of
+Europe, the subject never presuming to turn his back upon the throne, but
+carefully stepping backward to the door, in retiring from the royal
+presence. Whether this circumstance is sufficient to prove that Europe was
+peopled from Mexico--an opinion gravely put forth, and sturdily maintained,
+by at least one old writer--I shall not now stop to inquire.
+
+The body-guard of the sovereign was composed of the chief nobles of the
+realm, who, like the great feudal lords of Europe, held sway over extensive
+estates of their own, and could call into the field, at any moment, an
+immense army of subject retainers. The royal palaces were extensive and
+magnificent, and comprised apartments, not only for the private
+accommodation of the royal household, but for all the great purposes of the
+state--halls of council, treasuries for the public revenue, etc. etc.
+Mexico was indeed a city of palaces, interspersed with temples and
+pyramids, rivalling in splendor and luxury, as well as in extent, many of
+the proudest capitals of the Old World.
+
+This splendid monarchy, which was probably at the very acme of its glory,
+when discovered and overturned by the remorseless invaders from Spain, was
+the last of a series of powerful and highly refined dynasties, that had
+successively flourished and passed away, in the beautiful regions of
+Central America. Two mighty oceans on the east and west, two mighty
+continents on the north and south, and embracing, in the singular
+arrangement of its slopes and levels, all the climates and productions of
+both and of all, it seems to have been, for ages, we know not how far back,
+the theatre of all the art, the seat of all the power, the centre of all
+the refinement and luxury, of the western hemisphere. There are some
+remarkable works of art, and wonderful traces of ancient civilization in
+South America, as well as some singular remains of a once numerous and
+powerful people in the north. But the Isthmus was the Decapolis of Ancient
+America. "The tabernacles of its palaces were planted _between the seas_,
+in the glorious mountain." Here was its Babylon, its Nineveh, its Thebes,
+its Palmyra. And here, splendid in ruins, with no voice to tell of their
+ancient founders, or of the millions who once thronged their busy streets,
+they still remain, an instructive but painful lesson on the instability of
+human affairs, the brevity of a terrestrial immortality.
+
+I have said that Mexico was the last of a series of splendid monarchies
+that had flourished, and passed away, in Central America. The evidences of
+the truth of this statement are too numerous, and too clear, to admit of a
+doubt. The ruins of extensive and magnificent cities, which abound on every
+side, like the sepulchres and monuments of the departed, are the melancholy
+memorials, which cannot be gainsayed, of the gigantic power and fruitful
+resources of the Past. Palenque, Copan, and many more in the south--Uxmal,
+Chi-chen, Ticul, Kabah, Mayapan, etc., in the central regions of
+Yucatan--Panuco, Cerro Chacuaco, and others without a name, in the
+north--these are but a part of the remains of ancient grandeur that lie
+buried under the soil, and hidden in the almost impervious forests of this
+luxuriant clime. Their name is legion. Some of them were deserted and in
+ruins at the period of the Spanish Conquest, and are occasionally spoken of
+by the historians of that day with wonder and amazement. Some were
+evidently occupied by other races than the builders, inferior in taste and
+refinement, if not in physical power; and some, though not then in utter
+ruins, were, as at the present day, waste and without inhabitant,--
+
+ Desolate, like the dwellings of Moina,--
+ The fox looked out of the window,
+ The rank grass waved round its head.
+
+In the remains of these ruined cities, there are not only the evidences
+derived from their different degrees of dilapidation and decay, to prove
+that they originated in different and far distant ages, but others which
+show them to be the works of distinct races of people. The plan and
+architecture of the buildings, the style and finish of the ornamental
+parts, the forms and features of the sculptured heads, differ as widely as
+those of Egypt and Greece, and as clearly prove the workmanship of
+different periods, and different artists. Some writers have undertaken to
+trace in these ruins, evidences of three distinct ages of American
+civilization. Without entering into an argument on the subject, I would
+simply remark, that, whether three, or five, or more, no conclusion seems
+to my mind capable of a more perfect substantiation, than this, that these
+ruins extend far back into the remotest ages of antiquity, and form a
+continuous chain of connection between the earliest settlers in America,
+and the Toltecs and Aztecs, of whom we have something like authentic
+history. I go farther, and say that this chain is probably complete in its
+parts, though the links are separated, and cannot now be brought together
+again. They are all there, but so scattered and confounded together, that
+he who attempts to assign them a place and a date, or to build a theory
+upon their apparent relations to each other, will probably soon find
+himself "in wandering mazes lost," and rather amuse, than convince or
+instruct his readers.
+
+These statements are, for the most part, drawn from the most reliable
+sources, and confirmed, as far as I have had opportunity, by my own
+observation. I shall take the liberty to regard them as facts. Intending to
+refer to them in the concluding chapter, and to draw from them some
+inferences in support of the opinions I have formed respecting the origin
+of the ancient American races, and the probable epoch of the ruins I have
+had the pleasure to explore, I shall make no further comment upon them
+here; but proceed to a brief epitome of the present condition of the empire
+of the Montezumas.
+
+The population of Mexico is as mixed and various as that of any other
+portion of the globe. It includes, at least, seven distinct races. First,
+the Europeans, or foreign residents, called Chapetones, or Gapuchins.
+Secondly, Creoles, or native whites of European extraction. Thirdly, the
+Mestizoes, the offspring of whites and Indians. Fourthly, Mulattoes, the
+offspring of whites and blacks. Fifthly, the Aboriginal Indians. Sixthly,
+Negroes. Seventhly, Zamboes, or Chinoes, the offspring of negroes and
+Indians. There is also a sprinkling of Chinese and Malays, and natives of
+the Canaries, who rank as whites, and are known by the general name of
+Islenos, or Islanders.
+
+While Mexico remained a colony of Spain, from the conquest in 1519, till
+the Revolution in 1810, all the power and influence, and nearly all the
+wealth, was confined to the first class. The revolution transferred it to
+the second, and expatriated the first. And this was almost its only result;
+for it does not seem to have been attended with any of the ordinary
+blessings of freedom to the common people, either in lightening their
+burdens, or elevating their moral condition.
+
+The government of the colony was that of a Viceroy, the proud servant of a
+proud master in Spain, and amenable only to him for his acts. The people
+had no voice either of council or remonstrance. It was passive submission
+to absolute power. Whether that power became more severe and oppressive, in
+the early part of the present century, than it had been, or whether the
+increased numbers, wealth and ambition of the Creoles induced a desire to
+take the power into their own hands, or whether it was the mere contagion
+of rebellion and independence, diffusing itself over a continent reserved
+as "the area of Freedom," and separated by wide oceans from the despotisms
+of the Old World, it is not easy now to decide. The struggle was long and
+severe. Monarchy held on to the golden mountains of Mexico with a desperate
+though feeble grasp. Independence was declared, by the congress of Mexico,
+in 1813, but it was not finally and fully achieved until 1829, when the
+Spanish residents were expelled from the country.
+
+The contest for independence, as is usually the case, brought out the
+patriotism, talent and genius of the native population. Several of the
+leaders distinguished themselves in the eyes of the world. Among the most
+prominent were Guerrero, Hidalgo, Moreles and Victoria.
+
+In 1820, the Viceroy, who was still struggling to support the tottering
+throne, commissioned General Iturbide, who had been successful in several
+engagements with the Creoles, to reduce them to submission. Iturbide was
+born to be a traitor. No sooner was the army placed at his control, than he
+betrayed his trust, joined the cause of the revolutionists, and proclaimed
+Mexico independent. This was in 1821. A congress assembled in 1822, to form
+a constitution. But Iturbide, traitor to the cause he had just adopted,
+caused himself to be proclaimed Emperor, under the title of Augustin the
+First. Opposed by a powerful and resolute party, rendered desperate by
+their success hitherto, this self-constituted Emperor was compelled to
+abdicate in the course of a year, and retire to Europe, the proper theatre
+for legitimate tyrants. Returning to Mexico in 1824, with a view, as was
+supposed, to avail himself of the distractions of the country, to assert
+anew his claims to the imperial dignity, he was seized and shot, as soon
+as he had landed.
+
+From the first outbreak of the Revolution to the present time, Mexico has
+been torn and distracted with internal wars. The long struggle for
+Independence, was succeeded, as soon as that end was achieved, by other and
+more bitter struggles for personal or party ascendency. A constitution was
+adopted in 1823. The government established by it, is a confederated
+Republic, modelled in most respects, after that of the United States--a
+government exactly suited to make an intelligent and virtuous people happy,
+but not adapted to a community composed of restless, unprincipled,
+ambitious factionists, on the one hand, and an ignorant, bigoted rabble, on
+the other. Faction after faction has arisen, plan after plan has been
+proposed, adopted, and instantly discarded for another, till it has become
+as difficult to say what is, or has been at any particular period, the
+actual government of Mexico, as to predict what it will be to-morrow. If
+the intelligence of the people had been such as to justify the
+comparison,--if there had been more real patriotism, more sincere love of
+liberty among the principal actors in these bloody dramas, one might say,
+that the Florentine Histories of the middle ages had been re-enacted in
+Mexico. How different the struggle, both in its manner and in its results,
+in our own blessed land. But let us not triumph over our less favored and
+weaker neighbors. Let us rather devoutly thank heaven that our fathers
+loved liberty more than power, and laid broad and deep the foundations of
+intelligence, virtue and religion,--not superstition, and a bigoted
+devotion to forms, or a blind submission to ecclesiastical authority, but
+the religion which recognizes God as supreme, and all men as equal,--on
+which to raise the glorious superstructure of rational freedom. Let us see
+to it, that, while we enlarge the superstructure, we do not neglect the
+foundations.
+
+It was during the temporary ascendency of Iturbide, that Antonio Lopez de
+Santa Anna, now more notorious than illustrious, became a conspicuous actor
+on this turbulent stage. He was a native of the department of Vera Cruz.
+Here, without enjoying any adventitious advantages of birth or family, he
+succeeded, by his talents and industry, in securing great local influence,
+and gradually rose to wealth and power. Except Bolivar, there is, perhaps,
+no one among the many distinguished agitators of Spanish America, whose
+career has been signalized by so many extraordinary vicissitudes of good
+and evil fortune, or who has rilled so large a space in the eye of the
+world, as Santa Anna.
+
+On the promulgation by Iturbide of the plan of Iguala, (February 24, 1821,)
+Santa Anna, at the head of the irregular forces of the neighborhood,
+succeeded by a _coup de main_, in driving the Spaniards out of Vera Cruz,
+of which he was immediately appointed governor. The Spaniards, however,
+still held the castle of San Juan de Ulloa, from which they were not for a
+long time dislodged; and, of course, Santa Anna's position was one of great
+importance.
+
+Meanwhile, differences arose between Santa Anna and the Emperor Augustin,
+who had come down to Jalapa to direct the operations against the Spaniards.
+Santa Anna repaired to Jalapa to confer with Iturbide; and, being treated
+harshly, and deprived of his command, immediately left Jalapa, hurried back
+to Vera Cruz, in anticipation of the intelligence of his disgrace, raised
+the standard of revolt, and, by means of his personal authority with the
+troops of the garrison, commenced hostilities with the Emperor. Thereupon
+Guadalupe Victoria, whose name was endeared to the Mexicans by his previous
+unsuccessful efforts in the revolution, and who was living concealed in the
+mountains, emerged from his hiding place, called around him his old
+republican companions in arms, expelled Iturbide, and established the
+Mexican republic with a federal constitution, in imitation of that of the
+United States.
+
+Santa Anna, who, by first taking up arms, had contributed so largely to
+this result, thinking himself not duly considered in the new arrangements,
+sailed from Vera Cruz with a small force March 1823, and landing at
+Tampico, advanced through the country to San Luis Potosi, assuming to be
+protector of the new republic. But not possessing influence enough to
+maintain himself in this attitude, he was compelled to submit to the
+government, and to remain for several years in retirement at Manga de
+Clavo.
+
+The termination of Victoria's presidency, however, in 1828, enabled Santa
+Anna to re-appear on the stage. Pedraza had been regularly elected
+President; on hearing of which, Santa Anna rose in arms, and by a rapid
+march, seized upon and intrenched himself in the castle of Perote. Here he
+published a plan, the basis of which was to annul the election of Pedraza,
+and confer the presidency on Guerrero. But, being successfully attacked
+here by the government forces, he was compelled to flee, and took refuge in
+the mountains of Oajaca, to all appearance an outlaw and a ruined man. The
+signal of revolution, however, which he had given at Perote, was followed
+up with more success in other parts of the country.
+
+Pedraza was at length driven into exile, Guerrero was declared President in
+his place, and Santa Anna was appointed to the command of the very army
+sent against him, and to the government of Vera Cruz, and after the
+inauguration of Guerrero, April 1829, he became Secretary of War.
+
+While these events were in progress, the Spanish government was organizing
+its last invasion of Mexico. Barradas, the commander of the Spanish forces,
+landing at Tampico, July 27, 1829. Santa Anna was entrusted with the
+command of the Mexican troops, and at length compelled the Spaniards to
+capitulate, September 11, 1829, which put an end to the war of
+independence.
+
+Guerrero had been in office but a few months, when another revolution broke
+out. The Vice-President, Bustamente, gathered a force at Jalapa, and
+pronounced against Guerrero, December 1829, who was at length taken
+prisoner, and executed for treason; Bustamente assuming the presidency.
+
+Santa Anna, after feebly resisting, had at length joined, or at least
+acquiesced in, the movement of Bustamente; and remained in retirement for
+two or three years, until, in 1832, he on a sudden pronounced against the
+government, compelled Bustamente to flee, and brought back Pedraza from
+exile, to serve out the remaining three months of the term for which he
+had been elected to the presidency.
+
+In the progress of events, Santa Anna had now acquired sufficient
+importance to desist from the function of President maker, and to become
+himself President. This took place in May, 1833. His presidency was filled
+with pronunciamentos and civil wars, which produced the consummation of the
+overthrow of the federal constitution of 1824, and the adoption, in 1836,
+of a central constitution.
+
+Though most of the Mexican States acquiesced in the violent changes, by
+which they were reduced to mere departments, under the control of military
+commandants, Texas on the northeast, and Yucatan on the south-east, refused
+to submit to the military dominion of whatever faction of the army might
+happen to hold power in the city of Mexico: and Santa Anna at length took
+command in person of the army organized for the reduction of Texas. The
+battle of San Jacinto, the capture of Santa Anna, his release by Houston on
+conditions, which he afterwards refused to fulfil, his visit to this
+country, and his subsequent return to Mexico, are events familiarly known
+in the United States.
+
+When Santa Anna marched on Texas, first Barragan, and then Coro, exercised
+the functions of the presidency for a while, until, under the new
+constitution, Bustamente, having returned from exile, was elected
+President; the temporary unpopularity of Santa Anna, and his retirement in
+disgrace to Manga de Clavo, having left the field open to the friends of
+Bustamente.
+
+Sundry _pronunciamentos_ followed; of which, one of the most dangerous,
+headed by Mejia, gave to Santa Anna the opportunity of emerging from his
+retirement. He vanquished Mejia, and caused him to be shot on the field of
+battle. This exploit gave to Santa Anna a new start in public affairs; so
+that when the French Government, in 1838, resolved to punish Mexico for its
+multiplied aggressions on the subjects of France in Mexico, and proceeded
+to attack Vera Cruz, the command of the Mexican troops were committed to
+Santa Anna. On this occasion he received a wound, which rendered the
+amputation of one of his legs necessary; and his services, at this time,
+seemed to have effaced, in the eyes of the Mexicans, the disgrace of his
+defeat at San Jacinto.
+
+Santa Anna took no part in the unsuccessful movement of Urrea against
+Bustamente, in 1840; but in 1841, there broke out a revolution, commenced
+by Paredes, at Guadalajara, into which Santa Anna threw himself with so
+much vigor and zeal, that Bustamente was again compelled to flee, and the
+plan of Tacubaya, with the agreement of La Estanzuela, was adopted; in
+virtue of which, the constitution of 1836 was abolished, and Santa Anna
+himself was invested with the powers of dictator, for the purpose of
+re-constituting the republic.
+
+Under these auspices, and amid all the calamities of a protracted but
+unsuccessful attempt to reduce Yucatan to submission, (for Yucatan at
+length made its own terms,) a new constitution was adopted, June 13, 1843,
+entitled, "Basis of Political organization of the Mexican Republic," and
+Santa Anna was elected President.
+
+Santa Anna resigned his dictatorship, and entered upon office as the new
+President, in January, 1844; but before the expiration of the year, Paredes
+again pronounced at Guadalajara, and this time against Santa Anna. The
+chief ostensible causes of this movement, were various administrative
+abuses committed by Santa Anna and his ministers, and especially an
+abortive attempt of his administration to raise money for an expedition
+against Texas. When the revolution broke out, Santa Anna was at Magna de
+Clavo, the presidency being provisionally held, during his absence from the
+capital, by Canalizo. Instantly, on hearing the tidings of the movement at
+Guadalajara, Santa Anna, in open violation of one of the articles of the
+new organic basis, was placed in command of the army, and rapidly traversed
+the republic, from Jalapa to Queretara, with all the forces he could raise,
+to encounter Paredes. But the departments which he had left behind him
+speedily revolted, not excepting even Vera Cruz; and though his faction in
+the capital, including Canalizo and the ministers, endeavored to sustain
+him by proclaiming him dictator, their efforts were vain. He was compelled
+to retrograde, and at length was routed, and obliged to surrender himself a
+captive to the new administration, headed by Herrera, which has released
+him with the penalty of ten years' exile.
+
+Defeated, banished, and in disgrace with the world, it is still difficult
+to determine what will be the ultimate fate of this hero of half a score of
+revolutions. He is now, or, more properly speaking, he was when last heard
+from, living in luxurious retirement, on one of the most splendid estates
+in Cuba, a few miles from Havana. With immense wealth at his command,
+ambitious as ever of power, he is but waiting a favorable opportunity to
+thrust himself again into the quarrels of his ill-fated country. Money will
+accomplish any thing there, good or evil. And if, through any of his
+emissaries, he can once more gain access to the army, one year's income
+from his rich estates will buy them over to a new revolution, and the
+exiled dictator will once more place his wooden foot upon the necks of his
+conquerors, and of the people. This may be his position before the
+expiration of the present year. It may be, before the ink is dry which
+records the peradventure. It may be, at this very moment. "_Nous verrons ce
+que nous verrons._"
+
+Of literature, properly speaking, there is none in Mexico. There are a few
+scholars and learned men, in the church and at the bar. But their presence
+is not felt, their weight is not realized, in any estimate we attempt to
+make of the national character.
+
+Veytia, a native of Puebla, who flourished about the middle of the last
+century, has done much to illustrate the early history of the nations of
+Anahuac; tracing out, with great patience and fidelity, the various
+migrations of its principal races, and throwing much light on their history
+and works. He was an industrious able critic, and though but little known,
+deserves the highest credit for his valuable contributions to ancient
+American literature.
+
+Clavigero, a native of Vera Cruz, a voluminous and elaborate writer on the
+same subject, whose works are well known and highly approved, has rectified
+many of the inaccuracies of foreign writers, and done much to concentrate
+the scattered rays of native tradition, and give form and substance to
+previous antiquarian researches.
+
+Antonio Gama, a native of Mexico, and a lawyer, was a ripe scholar,
+distinguished for patient investigation, severe accuracy, and an impartial
+desire to arrive at the truth, without reference to a preconceived opinion
+or theory. He was a thorough master of some of the native languages, and,
+to an extent as great as the nature of the case admitted, of the native
+traditions and hieroglyphics. These, together with their systems of
+arithmetic, astronomy and chronology, he has illustrated with uncommon
+acuteness and ability. His works are but little known, but of great value
+to those who would follow a safe guide amid the labyrinths of antiquarian
+lore.
+
+Other worthy names might be added to these. But let these suffice to show
+that there is nothing in the climate unfavorable to letters. It is a rich,
+a glorious field; but, trampled by tyranny, or convulsed with revolutions
+and civil wars, there has scarcely been a moment, during the present
+century, when the scholar, however much disposed to retirement, could close
+the door of his study, and feel himself secure from interruption. It is
+hardly fair, therefore, to measure the literary capacity of Mexico, by its
+present fruits, or to judge of her scholars by the issues of the Press in
+such turbulent times.
+
+There are but few newspapers in the country, and these are not conducted
+with the most consummate ability. The bombastic, bragadocio style, with
+which they are often inflated, if it be not intended for carricature,
+might almost vie with Baron Munchausen's happiest specimens of that kind of
+composition. The comments of the government organ, published at the
+capital, are often extremely bitter upon every thing which relates to the
+United States. In some remarks respecting the monument commemorating the
+battle of Bunker Hill, the editor observes,--"The people of Boston make
+much ado about its completion"--and then adds,--"if Mexico should raise
+monuments for all such _trivial_ occurrences in her history, the whole
+country would be filled with them." A little farther on, speaking of the
+Peninsular War, he says,--"they may do--but Wellington never yet knew what
+it was to face a breast-work of Mexican bayonets."!!! Alas! for Wellington,
+and the glory of British arms! What was Waterloo to San Jacinto!
+
+On preparing to leave Tampico, I experienced considerable difficulty, and
+no small expense in procuring the necessary passports. Stamps, for permits
+of baggage, were required. My baggage had to undergo a very annoying
+examination, with a view to the discovery of specie that might be concealed
+therewith, which pays an export duty of six per cent. To such a provoking
+extent is this examination carried, that the insolent officers thrust their
+hands, like Arabs, into the bottoms of your pockets, in pursuit of your
+small loose change.
+
+I took passage in the Mexican schooner Belle Isabel, for New Orleans, in
+company with twenty other passengers. We embarked in the river, and, though
+hoping for a short passage, it was with sensations of discomfort,
+amounting almost to consternation, that I ascertained, after every thing
+was on board, that water and provisions had been laid in, sufficient only
+for a passage of forty-eight hours. After protesting to the American
+Consul, and lodging my complaint with the Captain of the port, against the
+villainous purpose of the master and consignee of the vessel, to put us
+upon allowance, and experiencing much delay, some further supplies were
+sent on board. We remained in the river some time, being unable to pass the
+bar, in consequence of the shallowness of the water in the channel. The
+annoyances experienced from the vermin, with which the vessel abounded, and
+the motley character of the passengers, made up of negroes, mulattoes, and
+Mexicans, rendered my position quite intolerable; and even sickness, which
+filled up the measure of my troubles, was a not unwelcome excuse for
+parting with such disagreeable associates.
+
+This affords me a favorable opportunity, and I embrace it with heartfelt
+pleasure, of paying, in part, a debt of gratitude to Captain Chase, the
+American Consul at Tampico, and his accomplished and kind-hearted lady,
+who, during a severe and protracted illness, attended me with a kindness
+that will not soon be forgotten. The tender and patient attentions, which
+they bestowed upon a sick countryman, in a strange land, were such as might
+have been expected from a brother and sister, and were rendered doubly
+valuable to the recipient, by the full hearted cheerfulness and benevolence
+which characterized them. God bless them both! May they never want a friend
+and comforter in any of the trials that may fall to their lot.
+
+More fortunate in my next attempt to leave Tampico, I secured a passage in
+the Pilot Boat Virginia, and, after a short and agreeable voyage, arrived
+at the Crescent City on the 8th of June, satisfied, for the present, with
+my adventures, and glad to greet the kind faces of familiar friends, and
+share the comforts which can only be found at home.
+
+_At home!_ yes, here I am once more, in my own quiet home, having performed
+three voyages by sea, embracing a distance of some two thousand miles,
+besides sundry rambles and pilgrimages in the interior, and all this, with
+only two "hair-breadth 'scapes by field or flood"--scarcely enough, I fear,
+to spice my narrative to the taste of the age.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE TWO AMERICAN RIDDLES.
+
+ Humboldt's caution.--Antiquities of the Old World long
+ involved in mystery, now explained. Ancient ruins never
+ fully realized by description.--The two extremes of
+ theorists.--A medium.--My own conclusion.--Reasons for
+ it.--1. Absence of Tradition.--Necessity and importance of
+ tradition.--Most likely to be found among the Aztecs.--An
+ attempt to account for its absence.--Answered.--The Toltecs
+ and their works.--A choice of conclusions.--2. Character and
+ condition of ruins.--Widely different from each other.--The
+ works of different and distant ages.--Probable origin of the
+ people.--One universal tradition, its relevancy to the
+ question.--Variety of opinions.--Variety of ancient
+ works.--Conclusion.
+
+
+The great problems of the origin of the American races, and of American
+civilization, though volumes have been written upon them, are yet unsolved.
+Whether, according to the inquisitive and sagacious Humboldt, we ought to
+regard it as lying "without the limits prescribed to history, and even
+beyond the range of philosophical investigation," or whether we may look
+upon it as still open to the examination of those who are curious in
+ancient lore, must be determined rather by the ultimate result of our
+discoveries, and of the speculations based upon them, than upon the
+exaggerated notions of the difficulty of the question, which the first
+confused revelations of the travelled enquirer may seem to suggest.
+
+I am by no means convinced in my own mind, that this question is one which
+cannot now be reached, or which must be looked upon as every year receding
+farther and farther from our grasp. The antiquities of the old world,
+buried for so many ages in midnight oblivion, had remained through a long
+course of centuries, the standing enigma of Time. With the help even of
+some imperfect records from the archives of ancient history, and the aid of
+what seemed to be a fair line of tradition, the origin and purpose of many
+of them, and the hidden meaning of their hieroglyphical embellishments, had
+continued to be an inexplicable mystery quite down to our own times. Much
+learned investigation, from acute observers, and profound reasoners, had
+been expended upon them, without arriving at any satisfactory result. And
+yet, after all, the nineteenth century has expounded the riddle. The lapse
+of ages, instead of scattering beyond recovery the dim, uncertain twilight
+that hung about these august monuments of the solemn Past, has miraculously
+preserved it, as it were embalmed by a magic spiritual photography, to be
+concentrated into a halo of glory around the brow of Champollion. May it
+not be so with the now mysterious relics of the ancient races of America?
+
+It may be remarked, and I think the remark cannot fail to commend itself to
+the good sense of every reflecting mind, that no description, however
+perfect, or however faithfully and ably illustrated by the art of the
+engraver, can convey any adequate idea of the character of these ruins, or
+furnish, to one who has not seen them with his own eyes, the basis of a
+rational argument upon their origin. Were it possible to transport them
+entire to our own fields, and reconstruct them there, in all their
+primitive grandeur and beauty, it would not help us to solve the
+mystery--it would not convey to us any just notion of what they have been,
+or what they are. To be realized and understood, they must be studied where
+they are, amid the oppressive solitude of their ancient sites, surrounded
+with the luxuriant vegetation and picturesque scenery of their native
+clime, the clear transparent heaven of the tropics above them, and their
+own unwritten, unborrowed associations lingering dimly about them.
+
+There are two errors, lying at the two extremes of the broad area of
+philosophical inquiry, into which men are liable to fall, in undertaking
+the discussion of questions of this nature. The one leads to hasty
+conclusions upon imperfect, ill-digested premises; the other shrinks from
+all conclusions, however well supported, and labors only to deepen the
+shadows of mystery, which hang about its subject. One forms a shallow
+theory of his own, suggested by the first object he meets with on entering
+the field--or, perhaps borrows that of some equally superficial observer
+who had gone before him, or even of some cloistered speculator, who has
+never ventured beyond the four walls of his own narrow study--and, clinging
+to it with the tenacity of a parental instinct to its first born
+impression, sees nothing, hears nothing, conceives nothing, however
+palpable and necessary, that will not illustrate and aggrandize his one
+idea. The most convincing proofs are lost upon him. Demonstration assails
+him in vain. He started with his conclusion in his hand, and it is no
+marvel if he comes back as ignorant as he went, having added nothing to his
+argument, but the courage to push it somewhat more boldly than before.
+
+Another enters the field, thoroughly convinced that it is impossible to
+come to any conclusion at all. He fears to see any thing decisive, lest it
+should compel him to favor an opinion. He dreads an object that suggests a
+definite idea, lest it should draw him perforce to support some tangible
+theory. He stumbles blindfold over palpable facts, and clearly defined
+analogies, and converses only with shadows. His philosophy consists in
+leaning to whatever embarrasses a conclusion, and following only those
+contradictory lights, which perplex the judgment, and prevent it from
+arriving at a precise and positive inference.
+
+Unsafe as it is to trust to the guidance of a mere theorist, there is
+little satisfaction in attempting to follow the timid lead of the universal
+doubter. Is it not possible to find a medium course?--to proceed with
+philosophic prudence and caution, taking due heed to all our steps, and yet
+to look facts and analogies boldly in the face, listen fearlessly to all
+their suggestions, collate, compare, and digest every hint and intimation
+they put forth, and venture, without exposing ourselves to the uncharitable
+imputation of dogmatism, to form and express a definite opinion? If any
+thing would deter _me_ from so bold a step, it would be the formidable
+array of eminent names in the list of the doubters. When so many of the
+wisest have given it up as hopeless, it requires no less courage than skill
+to assume to be an Oedipus. But, having already, on a former occasion,
+been driven to a positive inference from the narrow premises afforded by
+the question, and being answerable therefor at the bar of public criticism,
+I have less at stake than I should otherwise have, upon the opinion which I
+have now to offer.
+
+I am free to acknowledge then, that the impressions formed by my first
+"rambles" among the ruined cities of Yucatan, have been fully confirmed by
+what I have now been permitted to see in Mexico. I am compelled, in view of
+all the facts and analogies which they present, to assign those ruins, and
+the people who constructed them, to a very remote antiquity. They are the
+works of a people who have long since passed away, and not of the races, or
+the progenitors of the races, who inhabited the country, at the epoch of
+the discovery.
+
+To this conclusion I am led, or rather driven, by a variety of
+considerations, which I will endeavor to state, with as much brevity and
+conciseness as the nature of the case will admit.
+
+The first consideration to which I shall allude, in support of the opinion
+above expressed, is the absence of all tradition respecting the origin of
+these buildings, and the people by whom they were erected. Among all the
+Indian tribes in all Central America, it is not known that there is a
+solitary tradition, that can throw a gleam of light over the obscurity that
+hangs about this question. The inference would seem to be natural and
+irresistible, that the listless, unintellectual, unambitious race of men,
+who for centuries have lingered about these ruins, not only without
+knowing, but without caring to know, who built them, cannot be the
+descendants, nor in any way related to the descendants, of the builders.
+Tradition is one of the natural and necessary elements of the primitive
+stages of society. Its foundations are laid deep in the social nature of
+man. And it is only because it is supplanted by other and more perfect
+means of transmission, as civilization advances, that it is not, always and
+every where, the only channel of communication with the past, the only link
+between the living and the dead. In all ages, among all nations, where
+written records have been wanting, tradition has supplied the blank, and,
+generation after generation, the story of the past has been transmitted
+from father to son, and celebrated in the song of the wandering bard, till,
+at length, history has seized the shadowy phantom, and given it a place and
+a name on her enduring scroll. This is the fountain head of all ancient
+history. True, it is often so blended with the fabulous inventions of
+poetry, that it is not always easy to sift out the truth from the fiction.
+Still, it is relied upon in the absence of records: while the very fable
+itself is made subservient to truth, by shadowing forth, in impressive
+imagery and graceful drapery, her real form and lineaments. What else than
+fable is the early history of Rome?
+
+Now, if these ruins of America are of comparatively modern date, if, as
+some have undertaken to show, they were constructed and occupied by the not
+very remote ancestors of the Indian races who now dwell among them, in a
+state of abject poverty and servitude, is it reasonable, is it conceivable,
+that there should not be found a man among them acquainted with their
+ancient story, claiming affinity with their builders, and rehearsing in
+song, or fable,
+
+ The marvels of the olden time?
+
+With these splendid and solemn reminiscences always before their eyes, with
+all the hallowed and affecting associations that ever linger about the
+ancient homes of a cultivated people,--the temples of its worship, the
+palaces of its kings and nobles, the sepulchres of its founders and
+fathers, always present and constantly renewed to their minds, is it
+possible they could, in three brief centuries, forget the tale, and lose
+every clue to their own so gloriously illustrated history. I cannot admit
+it. I cannot conceive of it.
+
+The attempt to lay aside, or narrow down, this argument from tradition, or
+the absence of it, in order to arrive at an easy explanation of the mystery
+of these ruined cities, appears to me to be unphilosophical in another
+point of view. If I understand aright the character and history of the
+people who once flourished here, this is just the region, and they are just
+the people, where this kind of evidence would exist and abound. The Aztecs
+were a highly imaginative and poetical people. The picture writing, which
+prevailed among them, and in which they had attained so high a degree of
+perfection, was precisely the material on which to build traditionary lore,
+and cultivate a taste for it among the common people. It was the poetry of
+hieroglyphics--a national literature of tropes and figures. It selected a
+few prominent comprehensive images, as the representatives of great events.
+Strongly drawn and highly colored, these would impress themselves
+powerfully on the minds and memories of the people, and be associated with
+all that was dear to their hearts. Their personal histories, their family
+distinctions, their national pride, would all be involved in them, and all
+have a part in securing their faithful preservation and transmission.
+Inexhaustible fountains of national song and poetical fable, they would be
+recited in their public assemblies, and handed down from generation to
+generation. They would be to America what the Homeric poems were to Greece,
+and many long ages would not obliterate or destroy them.
+
+It has been argued, by way of anticipating such views as these, that the
+unexampled severities and oppressions of the Spanish conquerors, broke the
+spirit of these once proud nations, and so trampled them in the dust, as to
+annihilate those sentiments and affections, which form the basis of
+national pride and traditionary lore. It is a violent assumption,
+unsupported by any parallel in history, ancient or modern. Remove them from
+their ancient inheritance, transplant them to other climes, surround them
+with other scenes, amalgamate them with other people, and they may, in
+process of time, forget their origin and their name. But, in the midst of
+their father's sepulchres, with their temples, their pyramids, their
+palaces, all around them,
+
+ Their native soil beneath their feet,
+ Their native skies above them,--
+
+it is inconceivable, impossible.
+
+At this point I shall probably be interrupted, by the inquisitive reader,
+with the question, whether I am not overturning my own position, by
+insisting that the ancient Aztecs, and their works, must necessarily live
+in tradition, while I allow that the Mexican Indians retain no memory of
+their ancestors. I conceive not. The ruins to which I refer, are not those
+of the Mexican and Tezcucan cities, which were sacked by the Spaniards,
+almost demolished, and then rebuilt in a comparatively modern style of
+architecture. Of those we need no native tradition. The Spanish histories
+have told us all that we can know of them.
+
+But even of these, as the Spaniards found them, we have no certain evidence
+that the people who then occupied them, were the _sole_ builders. We have
+both tradition and history to justify us in asserting that they were not.
+Another race had preceded them, and filled the country with their works of
+genius and art. The Toltecs, whose advent into the territory of Anahuac, is
+placed as far back as the seventh century of the Christian era, were not
+inferior to the Aztecs in refinement, and the knowledge of the mechanic
+arts. To them the Aztec paintings accord the credit of most of the science
+which prevailed among themselves, and acknowledged them as the fountain
+head of their civilization. The capital of their empire was at Tula, north
+of the Mexican valley, and the remains of extensive buildings were to be
+seen there at the time of the conquest. To the same people were ascribed
+the ruins of other noble edifices, found in various places throughout the
+country, so vast and magnificent, that, with some writers, "the name,
+_Toltec_, has passed into a synonyme for _architect_." Following in their
+footsteps, and acknowledging them as their teachers, it would not be
+strange if the Aztecs should, in some instances, have occupied the
+buildings _they_ left behind, and employed the remnant that still remained
+in the country, in erecting others.
+
+But, without insisting upon this conjecture, it is clear that there were
+other and earlier builders than the Aztecs. The Toltecs passed away, as a
+nation, a full century, according to the legend, before the arrival of the
+Aztecs. Their works filled the country. Accounts of them abounded in the
+Tezcucan tablets. They were celebrated by the Aztec painters. They were
+still magnificent and wonderful in ruins, when the Spaniards arrived. And
+yet, among the present race of Indians in Mexico, there is no tradition
+respecting them, no knowledge of their origin, no interest whatever in
+their history.
+
+From these premises, we have a choice of two conclusions. Either the ruined
+buildings and cities of Anahuac are not the work of the comparatively
+modern race of Aztecs, or the present Indians are not the descendants of
+that race. That the former conclusion is true, I think there cannot be a
+doubt. The latter _may_ be true, also, to a great extent. That refined and
+haughty people may have wasted entirely away under the grinding yoke of
+their new task-masters, and the indolent inefficient slaves, that remain as
+their nominal representatives, may be only the degenerate posterity of
+inferior tribes, the vassals of the Mexican crown.
+
+Another consideration which strongly favors the view I have taken, with
+respect to the antiquity of these ruins, is the character of the ruins
+themselves, and the condition in which they are found. That they do not all
+belong to one race, nor to one age, it seems to me no careful or candid
+observer can deny. They are of different constructions, and different
+styles of architecture. They are widely different in their finish and
+adornments. And they are in every stage of decay, from a habitable and
+tolerably comfortable dwelling, to a confused mass of undistinguishable
+ruins. In all these particulars, as well as in the gigantic forests which
+have grown up in the walls and on the terraces of some of them, and the
+deep deposit of vegetable mould which has accumulated upon others, they are
+clearly seen to belong to different and distant ages, and consequently to
+be the work of many different artists. That some of them were the work of
+the Toltecs, is well substantiated, as we have already seen. What portion
+of the great area of ruins to assign to them, I know not. But if, as one of
+the most cautious and judicious historians supposes, they were the
+architects of Mitla, Palenque and Copan, thus fixing the date of those
+magnificent cities several centuries anterior to the rise of the Aztec
+dynasty, they could not have been the _first_ of the American builders.
+_Their_ works are still in a comparatively good state of preservation, and
+may remain, for ages to come, the dumb yet eloquent monuments of their
+greatness; while others, not only in their immediate vicinity, but in
+different parts of the country, are crumbled, decayed, scattered, and
+buried, as if long ages had passed over them, before the foundations of the
+former were laid. There is every thing in the style and appearance of the
+ruins to favor this conclusion, and to confirm the opinion, that some of
+them are farther removed in their origin from the Toltecs, than the Toltecs
+are from us. Some of those described in the preceding chapters of this
+work, are manifestly many ages older than those of Chi-chen, Uxmal and
+others in Yucatan, which I visited on a former occasion.
+
+Having extended these remarks somewhat farther than I intended, perhaps I
+ought to apologize to the reader for asking his attention, a few moments,
+to another problem growing out of this subject, which has given rise to
+more discussion, and been attended with less satisfaction in its results,
+than any other. I refer to the origin of the ancient American races. From
+what quarter of the globe did they come? And how did they get here?
+
+The last question I shall not touch at all. It will answer itself, as soon
+as the other is settled. And, if that cannot be settled at all--if we are
+utterly foiled in our efforts to ascertain whence they came--it will be of
+little avail to inquire for the how.
+
+The learned author of "The Vestiges of Creation," and other equally
+profound speculators of the Monboddo school, would probably find an easy
+way to unravel the enigma, on their sceptical theory of the progressive
+generation of man. But regarding the Mosaic history as worthy not only of a
+general belief, but of a literal interpretation, I cannot dispose of the
+question in that summary way. I would rather meet it with all its seemingly
+irreconcilable difficulties about it, or not meet it at all, than favor the
+subtle atheism of these baptized canting Voltaires, and relinquish my early
+and cherished faith, that man is the immediate offspring of God, the
+peculiar workmanship of his Divine hand. There is nothing soothing to my
+pride of reason, nothing grateful to my affections, nothing elevating to
+my faith, in the idea that man is but an improved species of monkey, a
+civilized ourang-outang, with his tail worn off, or driven in.
+
+There is but one solitary tradition among all the American races, bearing
+upon the general question of their origin; and that, singularly enough, is
+universal among them. It represents them as coming from northwest. From
+what other portion of the world, from what distance, at what time, and in
+what manner, it does not in any way declare, or intimate. Whether it was
+five centuries ago, or fifty, there is not, I believe, a single tribe that
+pretends to know, or to guess. And yet there is not a tribe on this side
+the great northern lakes, among whom this general tradition of the
+migration of their ancestors from the northwest, is not found. There are
+many and various traditions among them in respect to other matters,
+presenting many and curious coincidences with the traditionary and fabulous
+history of some of the oldest nations in the world. But, on this point, the
+origin of their own races, they have nothing to say, except that, at a
+remote period of antiquity, their fathers came from the northwest.
+
+With such an index as this, pointing so decidedly and unchangeably to
+Behring's strait, where the coast of Asia approaches within fifty miles of
+that of America, it would seem, at first sight, that the question might be
+easily answered. And so it could be, but that some authors are more fond of
+conjecture than of certainty, of doubt than of probability. To those who
+believe, with Moses, that the peopling of the earth commenced in Asia,
+there is manifestly no mode of accounting for the population of America, so
+natural as that to which this one omni-prevalent tradition points. It
+would have been considered abundantly sufficient and satisfactory, if it
+had not been continually involved with other questions, on the solution of
+which it does not necessarily depend.
+
+One writer, for example, thinks it impossible that these people could have
+come to America, by way of Behring's Strait, because there are _animals_ in
+the tropical regions who could not have come that way. Be it so. The
+question relates not to animals, but to _men_. By whatever other way they
+might have come, it is not at all probable that they would have brought
+tigers, monkeys, or rattle-snakes with them. If it could be proved, by
+authentic and unquestionable records, that they crossed the Atlantic or the
+Pacific in ships, the mystery of the tropical animals would still remain to
+be solved.
+
+Another, and it is a numerous class, whose imagination is inflamed with
+fancied resemblances in the languages, customs, traditions and mythology of
+the Indian races, to those of particular nations in the old World, deems it
+absolutely necessary to construct some other ancient, but now obliterated
+highway, to our shores, from those parts of Europe or Asia, nearest to that
+from which his favorite theory supposes them to have sprung. To some,
+Iceland was the natural stepping stone, a half-way house, from the North of
+Europe. To others, a chain of islands once stretched from the shores of
+Africa to those of South America--a sort of Giant's Causeway from Continent
+to Continent, miraculously thrown up for the purpose of stocking this
+Western World with men and animals, and then, like a useless draw-bridge,
+as miraculously laid aside. Other theories, not less extravagant than
+these, have been invented, and strenuously maintained, for the benevolent
+purpose of accommodating the poor Aborigines with an easy passage from
+their supposed birth place to their present homes. Yet, strange to say,
+those obstinate and ungrateful savages all persist in declaring that, when
+their ancestors arrived in this country, they came by way of the northwest.
+
+It is one of the prominent errors of most of the writers on this subject,
+that, with the exception of the Esquimaux, they aim to find a common origin
+for all the American tribes. True, there is a common type to all the North
+American Indians, and there is good reason to suppose that they sprung from
+a common stock. But it is not so with the nations of Central and South
+America, or rather with those of them whose mighty works have given rise to
+these discussions. I think it cannot be questioned, that there were among
+them, the representatives of many different nations or races. Of this the
+sculptured heads we have exhibited from among the ruins of their ancient
+cities, bear witness. Compare the outlines and features of the heads
+represented on pages 128, 130, 136, and 178, of the present work, first
+with each other, then with the different representations of the human head,
+as found among these ancient relics by other travellers, and then again
+with the types of the four great divisions of the human family. The
+comparison exhibits this curious result, that the American, or Indian type,
+has no representative among these sculptured figures; while almost every
+variety of the Caucasian and Mongolian is found there. If the portrait of
+Montezuma, in the second volume of Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, be taken
+as a genuine likeness, it is plain that he did not belong to the American
+race. There is no mark of the Indian about it.
+
+It will be admitted, I suppose, that Art, in all ages, and among all
+nations, is but a humble imitator of Nature. The Sculptor, and the Painter,
+works always by a model. His _beau ideal_ is the highest form of living
+beauty which he sees around him. He may select and combine the features of
+several subjects, to make a perfect whole. But these features are all those
+of the living beings with whom he is conversant, and represent the race to
+which he belongs. And whenever he departs from the living model, except to
+select and combine, his figures become invariably grotesque, ridiculous and
+disgusting.
+
+Was it because the ancient American artists, at the time when their works
+of art were executed, had never seen a specimen of what we call the
+American race, that there is no good representation of the Indian head
+among their works? We are not surprised that the African is wanting there;
+for, notwithstanding the "Giant's Causeway" above alluded to, no individual
+of that race seems ever to have visited the shores of America, except by
+compulsion. They were unknown to the Aborigines, till they were introduced
+by the whites, as slaves. Shall I venture to infer, from the absence of the
+Indian type, that that race was also unknown here, at the time when these
+artists flourished on the American soil? Were all these great works
+constructed and finished before the present races of Indians found their
+way into that part of the Continent? How old, then, are the works? Who
+were the builders? From what part of the great human family did they
+spring?
+
+In treating banteringly of the "Talismanic Penates," in my tenth chapter, I
+presumed to draw from them some evidence of the Asiatic origin of the
+people by whom they were cherished. The figures on the 178th page are
+representatives of originals found only in that part of the world. The
+solitary tradition referred to above, points in the same direction. Did
+Tartary, China, or Japan, furnish to America, ages ago, a race of sculptors
+and palace-builders?
+
+In the early ages of the world's history, the families of men were far more
+unsettled, and migratory in their habits, than they now are. It was not an
+uncommon thing for whole nations to change their abodes at once. The north
+of Europe, and the adjacent regions of Asia, like an over-populous hive,
+sent out many swarms of restless adventurers, to overrun and occupy the
+fairer fields of the south. Goths, Vandals, Huns, swept over the land, in
+successive deluges, that threatened to overturn every vestige of ancient
+civilization. But the mighty flood rolled back from the walls of Rome, and
+carried with it the arts and sciences, and the enervating luxuries of the
+south. In all these desperate encounters of barbarism with civilization,
+there was an extensive interchange, and blending of nations and races. Each
+melted into each, like the glaciers of the mountain, and the lakes of the
+valley, blended and lost in the stream that bears them both to the ocean.
+The same irruptions, the same amalgamations of conquerors with the
+conquered, took place in earlier ages, in the far east. And there is no
+violent improbability in supposing, that the overcharged fountain of
+humanity, in the central regions, sometimes overleaped its eastern
+barriers, as well as its western, and, meeting with no resistance, as in
+the south, spread itself quite to the shores of the Pacific, and thence
+into the neighboring continent of America. This may have been done at many
+different and distant periods, even back to the dispersion of Babel. Who
+shall say it was not so? We know almost as little of ancient eastern Asia,
+as of ancient America. But we _do_ know that it _might_ have furnished all
+the races that are known, or supposed, to have existed here. If we had not
+authentic records for the irruptions of the northern hordes, and for the
+great crusades of the Middle Ages, the Old World would furnish enigmas, as
+difficult to be solved, as those of the New.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Rambles by Land and Water, by B. M. Norman
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