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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:06:44 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:06:44 -0700 |
| commit | 856834f5874a06917273bdf235f8b69edaaa2a74 (patch) | |
| tree | 3c736034e9a6d2ea26f9fa5dd9a1730421398987 /36885-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '36885-h')
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diff --git a/36885-h/36885-h.htm b/36885-h/36885-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..74e14d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/36885-h/36885-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7721 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<!-- $Id: header.txt 236 2009-12-07 18:57:00Z vlsimpson $ --> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Rheims and the Battles for its Possession, by Michelin. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.bbox {border: solid 2px; + padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; + margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + +.bboxsmall {border: solid 2px; + padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; + margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 30%;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.right {text-align: right;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: + 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.tnote { + border: dashed 1px; + margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; + padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; +} + + </style> + </head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Rheims and the Battles for its Possession, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rheims and the Battles for its Possession + Illustrated Michelin Guides to the Battle-Fields (1914-1918) + +Author: Various + +Release Date: July 29, 2011 [EBook #36885] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RHEIMS *** + + + + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;"> +<img src="images/i001.jpg" width="448" height="700" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + +<h2>ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES<br /> +TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS (1914-1918)</h2> + +<h1>RHEIMS</h1> + +<h2>AND THE BATTLES FOR ITS POSSESSION.</h2> + +<div class="center">MICHELIN & C<sup>ie</sup>—CLERMONT=FERRAND.<br /> +MICHELIN TYRE C<sup>o</sup>. Ltd., 81, Fulham Road, LONDON, S.W.<br /> +MICHELIN TIRE C<sup>o</sup>., MILLTOWN, N.J., U.S.A. +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 411px;"> +<img src="images/i002.jpg" width="411" height="700" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +You don't know<br /> +what a<br /> +<b>Good Road Map</b><br /> +is if you haven't used the<br /> +<b>Michelin Map</b><br /><br /> +(<i>Scale - 1:200,000</i>)<br /> +(3.15 miles to the inch).<br /> +<br /> +On sale<br /> +at Michelin<br /> +stockists<br /> +and<br /> +booksellers.<br /> +</div> + +<p>The tourist finds his way about easily <b>in town</b>, if he has a +plan giving the names of the streets.</p> + +<p>He gets about with the same ease and certainty <b>on the road</b>, +if he has a <b>Michelin map</b>, because it gives all the road +numbers on the milestones and road-signs.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="center">THE BEST & CHEAPEST +DETACHABLE WHEEL</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;"> +<img src="images/i003a.png" width="376" height="297" alt="The Michelin Wheel is practical and strong" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><i>The Michelin Wheel is practical and strong</i></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;"> +<img src="images/i003b.png" width="369" height="292" alt="The Michelin Wheel is simple and smart" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><i>The Michelin Wheel is simple and smart</i></span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE "TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE."</h2> + +<p>If you are not a Member</p> +<div class="center">of the Touring Club de France</div> +<p>join to-day. By doing so, you will help France and, at +the same time, yourself. (Intending Members should +be introduced by two actual Members, or furnish +references.)</p> + +<p>If you are already a Member</p> +<div class="center">of the Touring Club de France</div> +<p>Introduce new Members. It will only cost you a +little good will, and you will have the satisfaction of +knowing that you have helped to augment the +Association's beneficent influence.</p> + +<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Subscriptions</span>:</div> + +<p>The yearly subscription is:</p> + +<p>6 francs for new Members of French nationality.</p> + +<p>10 francs for new Members of other nationality, +wherever their residence may be.</p> + +<p>New subscriptions paid from October 1 are +valid for the following calendar year.</p> + +<p>Life subscriptions may be effected in one payment +of 120 francs for persons of French nationality, or +200 francs if of other nationality.</p> + +<p>The title of "Membre-Fondateur" may be acquired +by the payment of 300 francs.</p> + +<p>A minimum payment of 500 francs confers the +title of "Membre-Bienfaiteur."</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="center">THE TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE,<br /> +65, AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE, PARIS (16).</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<div class="bboxsmall"> +<div class="center"> +IN MEMORY<br /> +OF THE MICHELIN EMPLOYEES<br /> +AND WORKMEN WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY<br /> +FOR THEIR COUNTRY. +</div> +</div> + +<h1>RHEIMS</h1> +<h2>AND THE BATTLES FOR ITS POSSESSION.</h2> + +<div class="center"> +Published by<br /> +MICHELIN & <span class="smcap">Cie</span><br /> +Clermont-Ferrand, France.<br /> +<br /> +Copyright by Michelin & Cie. 1919.<br /> +<br /> +<i>All rights of translation, adaptation, or reproduction (in part or whole) reserved<br /> +in all countries.</i> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> + +<div class="bbox"> +<p><i>On July 6th, 1919, the President of the French +Republic conferred the</i> <b>Croix de la Légion d'Honneur</b> +<i>on Rheims (fastening it personally on the City +Arms), with the following</i> "<b>citation</b>":—</p> + +<p>"<i>Martyred city, destroyed by an infuriated +enemy, powerless to hold it.</i></p> + +<p>"<i>Sublime population who, like the Municipal +Authorities—models of devotion to duty and +despising all danger—gave proof of magnificent +courage, by remaining more than three years under +the constant menace of the enemy's attacks, and +by leaving their homes only when ordered to do so.</i></p> + +<p>"<i>Inspired by the example of the heroic French +maid of venerated memory, whose statue stands +in the heart of the city, showed unshakeable faith +in the future of France (Croix de Guerre).</i></p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><br /> +<img src="images/i006.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="RHEIMS, AS SEEN FROM THE GERMAN LINES +(Photograph found on a German prisoner)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RHEIMS, AS SEEN FROM THE GERMAN LINES<br /> +(<i>Photograph found on a German prisoner</i>)</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> +<h2>RHEIMS</h2> + +<h3>POLITICAL HISTORY</h3> + + +<p>Rheims is one of the oldest towns in France, so old that legendary accounts, +in an endeavour to outdo one another, carry back its foundation sometimes +to 1440 <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> after the Flood, sometimes to the siege of Troy. Lying at the +intersection of the natural routes between Belgium and Burgundy, and between +the Parisian basin and Lorraine, <i>i.e.</i> between political districts that long +remained different in character, and regions having different commercial +resources, it was at one and the same time the "<i>oppidum</i>" and <i>market-town</i>. +Its military and commercial position destined it early to be a great city.</p> + +<p>It probably takes its name from the tribe of the <i>Remi</i>, who occupied +almost the whole territory now forming the "<i>départements</i>" of the Marne +and the Ardennes, and who were clients of the <i>Suessiones</i> (Soissons) before +the Roman conquest. It was already a prosperous town, under the name of +"<i>Durocortorum</i>," when Cæsar conquered Gaul. It freed itself from the +yoke of the Suessiones by accepting the Roman domination. When the +Belgians revolted in 57 <span class="smcap">B.C.</span>, the <i>Remi</i> remained faithful to Cæsar and received +the title of "<i>friends of the Roman people</i>." Neither did they take any part +in the general revolt of Gaul in 52 <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> Under the Empire, Rheims was, +with Trèves, one of the great centres of Latin culture in "<i>Gallia Belgica</i>." +On becoming a federated city, it retained its institutions and senate. A +favourite residence of the Roman Governors, Rheims was embellished with +sumptuous villas and magnificent monuments, and soon became one of the +most prosperous towns in Gaul. At the beginning of the Germanic invasions +Rheims drew in its borders and became a military town. Under <i>Diocletian</i> +it was the capital of <i>Belgica Secunda</i>.</p> + +<p>According to tradition, Christianity was first preached in Rheims by +St. Sixtus and St. Sinirus, the first bishops of the city. However that may be, +Christianity was firmly established there as early as the 3rd century. A +bishop of Rheims was present at the Council of Arles in 314. The conversion +of several great Roman personages (amongst others, the <i>Consul Jovinus</i>—see +p. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>) favoured the progress of the Christian religion.</p> + +<p>In the 5th century, when Rome, otherwise occupied, was unable to hold +back the barbarians, invasions interfered with the development of the city. +The Frankish conquest marked the beginning of a new period of prosperity. +In 486, after the victory of Soissons, <i>Clovis</i> entered into negotiations with +St. Remi, who, at the age of 22, had been elected Bishop of Rheims in 459, +and whose long episcopate of seventy-four years is probably unique in history. +On Christmas Day, <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 496, St. Remi, who had arranged the marriage of Clovis +with the Christian princess Clotilde, baptized the Frankish king with his +own hands in the Cathedral. This important event took place undoubtedly +at Rheims and not at Tours, as a learned German, <i>Krusch</i>, has attempted +to prove.</p> + +<p>Under the Merovingians and Carolingians, the history of Rheims became +merged in that of the French monarchy. The possession of the city was +disputed as fiercely as that of the throne. The city was mixed up in quarrels +from which it suffered, without, however, losing its religious prestige. Pépin-le-Bref +and Pope Stephen III., Charlemagne and Pope Leo III. had famous +interviews there. When the Carolingians restored the religious hierarchy +Rheims became one of the twenty-two chief cities of the Empire. From the +time of Charlemagne, the Archbishop of Rheims ruled over twelve bishoprics, +comprising the cities of the ancient Roman province of <i>Belgica Secunda</i>.</p> + +<p>From<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> the 9th to the 11th century the history of Rheims is that of its +church. The Counts of Vermandois, the Lords of Coucy and the archbishops +first disputed, then divided its temporal possession, the latter falling eventually +to the archbishops in the 11th century. After becoming Counts, with +the right to coin money, and, from 940, powerful temporal princes, the +archbishops played a great political part in the struggles between the +Carolingian princes. Under <i>Charles-le-Chauve</i>, Archbishop Hincmar became +the protector of the enfeebled monarchy. In 858 he prevented <i>Louis-le-Germanique</i> +from deposing his nephew and becoming King of France. In +987, Archbishop Adalbéron, at the Meeting of Senlis, drove the legitimate +heir, <i>Charles de Lorraine</i>, from the throne, and favoured the election of +Hughes Capet. Although, under the Capetians, Paris became the political +capital of France, Rheims became the religious metropolis of the kingdom. +From the time when <i>Louis-le-Pieux</i> had himself consecrated emperor in the +Cathedral, by Pope Stephen IV., it was understood that every new king +must be consecrated by the successor of St. Remi.</p> + + +<h4>The Consecration of the Kings of France</h4> + +<p>In the 12th century, Popes and Kings formally acknowledged the right +of the Archbishop of Rheims to consecrate and crown the kings of France. +As a matter of fact, until the Revolution, all the kings, except Louis IV. +and Henri IV., were consecrated at Rheims.</p> + +<p>The ceremony of consecration filled the Cathedral with a great crowd of +people. Apart from the peers, numerous prelates, dignitaries of the Kingdom, +the Court, the Chapter of the Cathedral and the populace crowded in. Staging +was erected for the public in the transept ends and along the choir. Before +the consecration took place, the archbishop, at the head of a procession, +went to receive the <i>Sacred Ampulla</i> at the threshold of the Cathedral, brought +on horseback by the Abbot of St. Remi. Returning to the altar, the prelate +received the King's oath and then consecrated him, anointing him with the +holy oil on his head and breast, between and on his shoulders, on the joints +of his arms and in the palms of his hands, each motion being accompanied +with a special prayer. Then the Peers handed the insignia of royalty to the +archbishop, who, surrounded by all the Peers, placed the crown of Charlemagne +on the head of the King, <i>while the people shouted</i> "<i>Long live the King</i>."</p> + +<p>The King was then led to a throne prepared for him at the entrance to +the Choir, and mass was celebrated with great pomp. The King and Queen +communicated in both kinds, and the royal party then went in procession +to the archbishop's palace, where the <i>Feast of Consecration</i> was held.</p> + +<p>In 1162, the Archbishopric of Rheims, until then a county, became a +Duchy and the highest peerage in France, which explains why it was given +to great personages, such as Henri-de-France and Guillaume-de-Champagne, +brother and brother-in-law of Louis VII.</p> + +<p>In the 12th century the archbishops, freed from the feudal rivalries, +were confronted by a new power, the <i>bourgeoisie</i> or middle classes, born of +the progress of industry and commerce, and whose importance was demonstrated +by the great Champagne Fairs held sometimes at Rheims and sometimes +at Troyes. The first <i>Company of Burgesses</i>, founded in 1138, soon +became a "<i>Commune</i>." In 1147, the suburb of St. Remi, which the archbishop +refused to allow to become attached to the "<i>Commune</i>" rose in revolt +and was only appeased by the intervention of St. Bernard and Suger.</p> + +<p>In 1160, Archbishop Henri-de-France, with the help of the Count of +Flanders, who was occupying Rheims with a thousand horsemen, suppressed +the "<i>Commune</i>" whose independence was alarming him. In 1182 a royal +charter, granting to the inhabitants the right to elect for a year twelve<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +"<i>échevins</i>" (aldermen), re-established the <i>Commune</i> in fact, if not in name, +but the struggle between the <i>Commune</i> and the archbishop still went on. +In 1211, Philippe-Auguste compelled the aldermen to hand over the keys of +the city gates to the archbishop.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 573px;"> +<img src="images/i009.jpg" width="573" height="800" alt="THE CONSECRATION CEREMONY OF THE KINGS OF FRANCE IN THE +CATHEDRAL OF RHEIMS (see p. 4)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CONSECRATION CEREMONY OF THE KINGS OF FRANCE IN THE +CATHEDRAL OF RHEIMS (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_4">4</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>In 1228, Archbishop Henri-de-Braine, not feeling himself safe in the city, +built the fortified castle of Mars-Gate (or old castle of the archbishops) +outside the walls, but looking towards the city (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_6">6</a></i>). During the +serious riots of 1235, the burgesses besieged the archbishop's castle, for which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +act they were excommunicated by Pope Gregory IX., and rebuked by +St. Louis. In 1257, St. Louis intervened once more, to put an end to the +fighting between the free Companies of the Burghers and the soldiers of +the archbishop.</p> + +<p>In the 14th century the two adversaries frequently came to blows, until +the king, in 1362, put an end to their quarrels by taking into his own +hands the care and military government of Rheims.</p> + +<p>In spite of these local struggles the city developed in the course of the +Middle Ages. With Chartres it had a well-attended episcopal school, long +before Paris. Among the masters of this school were <i>Gerbert</i>, one of the +most learned men of the Middle Ages, who became Pope under the name of +Sylvester II., and <i>St. Bruno</i>, founder of the Carthusian Order. Among the +pupils were <i>Fulbert</i> (afterwards Bishop of Chartres), the historian <i>Richer</i>, +<i>Guillaume de Champeaux</i>, and <i>Abélard</i> (adversary of St. Bernard).</p> + +<p>During the Hundred Years' War (<i>see military section</i>) the Town Council +of Rheims, which the Treaty of Troyes in 1420 had placed under the domination +of the English, declared in favour of Charles VII., in spite of the Duke of +Burgundy, who was residing at Laon, and notwithstanding the intrigues +of the Bishop of Beauvais, Pierre Cauchon, who, profiting by the absence +of the archbishop, went so far as to have a <i>Corpus Christi</i> procession in the +city, to call down the blessing of Heaven upon the English. On July 17th, +1429, Joan-of-Arc handed over the keys of the city to the king, and was +present at the consecration, standing near the altar with her standard which, +"after having been through much tribulation, was accounted worthy of a +place of honour." Since the return of Charles VII. to Rheims, the city had +never ceased to be French. After the departure of the king and Joan-of-Arc, +a friend of Pierre Cauchon plotted to deliver the town into the hands +of the Duke of Burgundy, to whom the English promised it, provided he could +take it. The plot was discovered and failed.</p> + +<p>Under Louis XI. a serious revolt, known as the Micquemaque, broke out +in the town. Louis, well received at the time of his consecration, had promised +the people of Rheims (or so they believed) the abolition of the tax known as +the "<i>taille.</i>" When, therefore, in the following year, the collectors demanded +payment, the people rose in revolt and drove them out.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i010.jpg" width="400" height="344" alt="THE OLD CASTLE OF THE ARCHBISHOPS OF RHEIMS, +RAZED TO THE GROUND BY HENRI IV. +The Archbishops of Rheims were formerly powerful temporal +lords (see page 4)." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE OLD CASTLE OF THE ARCHBISHOPS OF RHEIMS, +RAZED TO THE GROUND BY HENRI IV.<br /> +<i>The Archbishops of Rheims were formerly powerful temporal +lords (see page <a href="#Page_4">4</a>).</i></span> +</div> + +<p>As usual,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> the king had recourse to treachery. Disguised as peasants, his +soldiers entered the city unperceived. Once inside, they arrested those who +were most deeply compromised, and carried out violent reprisals. Houses +were plundered, many of the inhabitants banished, and nine put to death.</p> + +<p>During the War of Religion, Rheims sided with the Catholics.</p> + +<p>Under the influence of the <i>Guises</i>, five of whom were archbishops of Rheims +(notably Cardinal Charles de Lorraine, the protector of Rabelais and Ronsard, +and founder of the University of Rheims in 1547), the town espoused the cause +of the League and opened its gates to the Duc de Mayenne in 1585. It submitted +to Henri IV. only after the battle of Ivry, when the Castle of Mars +Gate (stronghold of the archbishops) was razed to the ground. Henceforth +the archbishops played no political part, and Richelieu put an end to strife +by turning the <i>Guises</i> out of the archi-episcopal see.</p> + +<p>In the 17th and 18th centuries the town lived in peace, with alternations +of misery and suffering (caused by plague or famine) and commercial and +industrial prosperity. It was at Rheims that the first French newspaper, +the "Gazette de France," printed by Godard in 1694, appeared.</p> + +<p>During the Revolution, Rheims received the new ideas with enthusiasm. +It furnished a great number of volunteers to withstand the invasion, and on +August 14th, 1792, the Legislative Assembly proclaimed that the city "<i>had +deserved well of the country</i>."</p> + +<p>Under the Restoration its industry developed. In August, 1830, the +people, who were favourably to the Revolution of July, overturned the cross +of the "<i>Calvaire de la Mission</i>," erected in 1821 by the ultra-Catholic party, +and in its place set up a funeral urn with the inscription, "To the brave men +who died for liberty on the 27th, 28th and 29th days of July, 1830." The +population accepted the monarchy of July, but without enthusiasm.</p> + +<p>The Second Empire witnessed a remarkable development of business +activity which, after the momentary stoppage caused by the War of 1870 +and the Prussian occupation (<i>see military section</i>), made of Rheims, at the end +of the 19th century, one of the great commercial and industrial cities of +France. The population increased from about 30,000 (in 1792) to 59,000 (in +1865) and to more than 115,000 in 1912.</p> + +<p>When the War of 1914 broke out, the rich and ancient city was still as +<i>La Fontaine</i> had described it:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +"<i>No town is dearer to me than Rheims,<br /> +The Honour and Glory of our France.</i>"<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i011.jpg" width="700" height="353" alt="RHEIMS, FROM AN OLD ENGRAVING (1622)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RHEIMS, FROM AN OLD ENGRAVING (1622)</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span></p> +<h3>MILITARY HISTORY</h3> + + +<p>If the military and commercial situation of Rheims destined it, from early +times, to be a great city, it also exposed it to the greed of ambitious foreigners, +and opened the road to invasion.</p> + +<p>During the Hundred Years' War the city was fiercely disputed. On +December 4th, 1359, Edward III. of England besieged it. On January 11th, +1360, a sortie of the troops and burghers, under Remi Grammaire, compelled +him to raise the siege, in recognition of which feat of arms Charles V. permitted +the "<i>fleur-de-lys</i>" (emblem of the Royal House of France) to be +emblazoned on the City's coat of arms. Since then the Shield of Rheims +has been: In chief France ancient, in base argent Two, laurel branches in +Saltire vert. In 1420 the English were more successful and entered Rheims, +whose gates were opened to them by Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy. +Nine years later (July 16th, 1429) the Dauphin of France and Joan-of-Arc +entered the town, then finally delivered, by the Dieu-Lumière Gate (formerly +the Gate of St. Nicaise).</p> + +<p>During the invasion of 1814, Marshal Marmont's troops retook Rheims +on March 13th, after sharp street fighting, and Napoleon entered the city +the same night.</p> + +<p>In 1870, after the investment of Metz, Rheims witnessed the departure +of the army formed by MacMahon at Châlons-sur-Marne, for the relief of +Marshal Bazaine. A few days later (September 4th) the Prussian troops +entered the city at 3 o'clock in the afternoon by three different gates. On +the 6th, the King of Prussia, accompanied by Bismarck and Von Moltke, +made an imposing entry, and resided for some time at the archi-episcopal +palace, in the apartments reserved for the Kings of France at the time of their +consecration. Rheims was held to ransom, and a number of citizens shot +for protesting against the German yoke, chief among whom was the Abbé +Miroy, Curé of Cuchery, whose tomb (the work of the sculptor Saint Marceaux) +is in the northern cemetery. Others were carried away prisoners to Germany. +The Prussian troops evacuated the town on November 20th, 1872.</p> + + +<h4>The Invasion of 1914</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See map, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>Forty-four years later to a day (September 4, 1914), German advance +troops again entered Rheims, as General Joffre's plans had not provided for +defending the city. However, the Army detachments placed under the command +of General Foch on August 29, and wedged in between the 4th and +5th Armies, stayed the German advance for a few days. On August 30 the +42nd Division from the East, detrained at Rheims and took up positions at +Sault-Saint-Rémy and Saint-Loup-en-Champagne on August 31, to the left +of the 9th and 11th Corps.</p> + +<p>On September 1, General Foch resisted on the river Retourne but, in the +evening, withdrew to the river Suippe, in conformity with the general orders. +On the 2nd the town was still protected by the 10th Corps (elements of which +occupied the Fort of St. Thierry), by the 42nd Division near Brimont and to +the north of the Aviation ground, and by the 9th and 11th Corps to the +east. On the 3rd, the French retreat towards the Marne became more rapid, +and Rheims was abandoned. On September 5, Prince August Wilhelm +of Prussia entered the town and took up his quarters at the Grand Hôtel. +The Germans at once requisitioned 50 tons of meat, 20 tons of vegetables, +100 tons of bread, 50 tons of oats, 15,000 gallons of petrol, besides straw +and hay, and insisted on the immediate payment of a million francs as a +guarantee that their requirements would be met.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +<img src="images/i013.jpg" width="700" height="540" alt="THE TEMPORARY GERMAN OCCUPATION OF SEPT. 1914 +German troops in front of the Cathedral. The scaffolding of the latter was set on fire on Sept. 19." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TEMPORARY GERMAN OCCUPATION OF SEPT. 1914<br /> +<i>German troops in front of the Cathedral. The scaffolding of the latter was set on fire on Sept. 19.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>This sum was paid in the course of the afternoon, under threats by the +enemy. From the 6th onwards the German soldiers gave themselves up to +plundering. The tobacco warehouse at 21 Rue Payen was ransacked, +and more than 700,000 francs worth of cigars and tobacco stolen. On +the following days pillaging, especially of the food-shops, continued. On +the 9th, the Kommandantur requisitioned civilians to bury the dead in the +Rethel, Epernay and Montmirail districts. On the 11th, the Crown Prince +arrived and took up his quarters at the Grand Hôtel, where he was joined by +Prince Henry of Prussia, brother of the Kaiser. On the morning of the 12th, +the Germans, alarmed at the approach of the victorious French troops from +the Marne, arrested the Mayor (Dr. Langlet), Mgr. Neveux, coadjutor of +Rheims, and the Abbé Camus. They then drew up a list of a hundred hostages +and threatened to hang them at the first attempt at disorder. They +also threatened to burn the city, wholly or partially, and to hang the inhabitants, +if any of them molested the German soldiers. All that day the Germans, +instead of organising defences, left the town in haste, after first pillaging it. +In the afternoon the Crown Prince left the Grand Hôtel with his suite. At +5 p.m., after setting fire to the forage stores, the Kommandantur left Rheims +by the Rethel road in drenching rain, followed by the hundred hostages, +who were only released at the level-crossing at Witry-les-Reims. When +the latter returned to Rheims, a patrol of French mounted Chasseurs had +already entered the town by the suburb of St. Anne. The next morning, +at about 6 o'clock, the French troops, with the 6th mounted Chasseurs at +their head, entered Rheims by the Rue de Vesle. At 1 p.m. General Franchet +d'Espérey, commanding the French 5th Army, entered the city.</p> + + +<h4>The Battles for Rheims, 1914-1918</h4> + +<p>Although evacuated by the Germans, Rheims had yet to remain for +nearly four years under enemy fire. With equal obstinacy the adversaries +disputed the town, the French seeking to disengage it and the Germans +to recapture it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> + +<p>On September 12, on the approach of the victorious French Army from +the Marne, the Germans entrenched themselves to the south-west of the town, +and established a line of resistance passing through Thillois, Ormes, Bezannes +and Villers-aux-Noeuds.</p> + +<p>In spite of the very unfavourable weather, the 3rd Corps (Gen. +Hache) vigorously engaged the enemy at Thillois, and forced them to +abandon the position in the evening. The 1st Corps (Gen. Deligny), +on the right, had orders to push forward advance-guards into Rheims, +but as a matter of fact they reached the suburb of Vesle. The 10th +Corps (Gen. Defforges) attacked at Puisieulx and forced the enemy across +the Vesle.</p> + +<p>On the 13th, the left of the 3rd Corps arrived in front of Courcy and Brimont, +where the Germans were strongly entrenched. A desperate battle took +place, with the result that Courcy was taken before noon. Loivre likewise +fell into the hands of the French, but the passage of the Aisne Canal was +fiercely disputed. The attack on Brimont failed, in spite of the great valour +of the troops, who sustained heavy losses. Meanwhile, the 1st Corps crossed +Rheims, with orders to debouch at Bétheny. Just outside the town +they were met with violent artillery fire, which, however, did not completely +check their advance. La Neuvillette, Pierquin Farm and Bétheny +were occupied, and the 1st Corps linked up on its left with the 3rd Corps, +on the outskirts of Soulain Woods. The advance continued during the +night, and Modelin Farm was reached by advance-guards. General +Deligny took up his headquarters in the suburb of Vesle. The 10th +Corps crossed the Vesle, engaged the enemy at St. Léonard and reached +the railway.</p> + +<p>On the 14th, the fighting greatly increased in violence. The 3rd +Corps, in spite of repeated efforts, was unable to advance; on the left it +failed to drive the enemy from the St. Marie Farm, while on the right +it was held up before Brimont. The 1st Corps was likewise checked; the +1st Division (Gen. Gallet) attempted unsuccessfully to support General +Hache in his attack on Brimont. The 10th Corps, although strongly +engaged towards the Fort of La Pompelle, made but little progress. +Farther away, on the right, the battle extended along the front of the +9th Army.</p> + +<p>On the 15th, at 5.30 a.m., the 5th Army resumed a general offensive. +Fierce fighting took place at St. Marie Farm, to the left of the 3rd Corps, +and also further north, near Hill 100. Despite heavy sacrifices, however, +the enemy held their positions; but, on the right, the 36th Infantry Regiment +captured the Château of Brimont at day-break. General Deligny, less +fortunate, was driven out of Soulains Woods, but stood firm at the Champ-de-Courses +and Bétheny. The 10th Corps continued to advance slowly, +and at certain points reached the high-road to Suippes.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, the 3rd Corps attacked Brimont again, but failed. At the +château the situation became more and more critical, by reason of the +retreat of the 1st Corps on the previous day. This Corps had again to face +a powerful enemy counter-offensive, which, however, failed to drive it from +the Modelin Farm and the "Cavaliers de Courcy."</p> + +<p>On the 17th, the Germans counter-attacked all along the line. In the +afternoon the 3rd Corps, which stood firm at Godat Farm and Loivre, was +elsewhere compelled to cross to the west bank of the canal and fall back on +Courcy.</p> + +<p>After a heroic defence the isolated garrison of Brimont Castle, weakened +by heavy losses, surrendered during the night, after having spent all its +ammunition. The 1st Corps, the greater part of which had left for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +region of Berry-au-Bac, held its positions with its last available units. The +10th Corps extended its front westwards to Bétheny, while one of its regiments, +the 2nd Infantry, occupied La Pompelle Fort.</p> + +<p>On the 18th, the enemy increased their efforts against the front held by +the 3rd Corps and the reserve units further west. Loivre, which had so +far resisted, fell. The French withdrew to the west of the road to Laon. +The situation was considered critical at this point of the front. The 10th +Corps, which had been withdrawn from the east of Rheims, in favour of +another sector, was stopped on the way and sent for a few days in support +of the 3rd Corps.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, one of its brigades counter-attacked Courcy Mill. On the +other side, the Moroccan Division (Gen. Humbert), which had relieved the +10th Corps, continued to hold La Pompelle Fort.</p> + +<p>Gradually the front became fixed. Desperate, indecisive fighting still +took place, but finally the front stabilised on the line extending from the +foot of the Berru and Nogent-l'Abbesse Hills, along the road from Rheims +to Suippes, on the east, and along the western bank of the Aisne Canal on the +north.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i015.png" width="700" height="726" alt="EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1914 +(See pp. 9-11.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1914<br /> +(See pp. <a href="#Page_9">9</a>-<a href="#Page_11">11</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The French Offensive of April, 1917</h4> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p> + +<p>The French offensive, planned by the then Commander-in-Chief, General +Nivelle, and launched in April, between Soissons and Auberive, aimed at +piercing the German front and disengaging Rheims.</p> + +<p>North-west of Rheims was the 5th Army (Gen. Mazel), of which the +38th Corps (Gen. de Mondesir) held the immediate approaches to the town, +followed by the 7th Corps (Gen. de Bazelaire), 32nd Corps (Gen. Passaga) +astride the Aisne, and, extending beyond Craonne, the 5th Corps (Gen. de +Boissoudy) and the 1st Corps (Gen. Muteau).</p> + +<p>East of Rheims the 4th Army (Gen. Anthoine) was engaged only during +the second stage of the battle.</p> + +<p>At 6 a.m. on the 16th, in drenching rain, the 5th Army attacked all +along the front, in conjunction on the left with the 6th Army (Gen. Mangin), +which undertook to storm the Chemin-des-Dames. The enemy was expecting +the attack, and had concentrated very large forces and powerful artillery. +Despite their bravery, the French were unable to break through.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i016.png" width="700" height="342" alt="EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1917" title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1917</span> +</div> + +<p>In the Rheims sector, the 32nd Corps advanced three kilometers to the +north of the Aisne. The 7th Corps crossed the canal at Loivre and captured +Berméricourt in the morning, but was forced to give up part of the conquered +ground in the afternoon, in consequence of a powerful German counter-attack. +In front of Brimont a brigade of the 38th Corps failed to pierce the +enemy's positions.</p> + +<p>On the 17th, while the army of General Mazel resisted a violent enemy +counter-attack, General Anthoine attacked from the east of Rheims to Auberive +with the 8th Corps (Gen. Hély d'Oissel), 17th Corps (Gen. J. B. Dumas), +12th Corps (Gen. Nourrisson). At 4.45 a.m., despite violent squalls of rain +and snow, the French infantry rushed forward and carried the first German +lines along a front of eleven kilometers. The 34th Division (Gen. de Lobit) +carried the Mont Cornillet and Mont Blond hills, which the enemy attempted +in vain to recapture.</p> + +<p>On April 18 and 19, and May 4 and 5, the fighting was spasmodic and +finally ceased. On the whole, the French offensive failed, and Rheims +continued to remain under enemy gun-fire.</p> + +<p>On the morning of May 27, 1918, the Germans commenced a powerful +offensive between Vauxaillon (on the Chemin-des-Dames) and the Fort of +Brimont. At the beginning of the attack, the French line passed through +Bétheny and along the Aisne-Marne Canal. In the evening, after the loss<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal, Rheims was no longer protected +on the north-west, except by the St. Thierry Heights, which were soon +turned. The Germans crossed the Vesle at several points, principally at +Bazoches and Fismes, and advanced as far as Muizon.</p> + +<p>On May 29, the French line passed through La Neuvillette, Châlons-sur-Vesle, +Muizon and Rosnay. On the 30th, it extended from Perquin +Farm to Méry-Premecy, via Champigny. On the 31st, Tinqueux and Vrigny +fell.</p> + +<p>Further to the south the Germans advanced along the valley of the Ardre +towards the Château-Thierry—Epernay—Châlons railway, threatening +Epernay (<i>see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne"</i>).</p> + +<p>However, Rheims still held out. On June 1, the Germans attacked +simultaneously, without success, to the south-east of the town (between +Pommery Park and La Pompelle Fort), and on the west and south-west +(between La Haubette and Ormes), while the French recaptured Vrigny. +On three separate occasions—in the evening of the 1st, and on June 9 and +18, the enemy's powerful and costly efforts to recapture this important +position broke down. On the 18th, they delivered a fresh general attack +from Vrigny to La Pompelle, gaining a footing in the Northern Cemetery of +Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of Sillery, but everywhere else +they were repulsed. On the 23rd and 29th, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by +the Italians, only to lose it again shortly afterwards. Once again, Rheims +had eluded the enemy's grasp.</p> + + +<h4>July 15 to August 9, 1918</h4> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i017.png" width="700" height="546" alt="EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS DESCRIBED ABOVE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS DESCRIBED ABOVE</span> +</div> + +<p>At dawn, on July 15, the Germans began a new offensive from Château-Thierry +to La Main de Massiges. It was Ludendorf's much vaunted "Friedensturm" +(peace-battle), and was expected by him to prove irresistible and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +decisive. Its purpose was to complete the encirclement of Rheims, +carry the hills surrounding the town, crush the French 4th Army, +and reach Châlons-sur-Marne (<i>see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and +Argonne"</i>). However, this time, there was no surprise, and the Allies held +out victoriously.</p> + +<p>To the west, between Dormans and Rheims, Franco-Italian forces held +their ground on the Châtillon-sur-Marne—Cuchery—Marfaux—Bouilly line. +To the east, from La Pompelle to the Argonne, the army of General Gouraud, +after voluntarily abandoning its first line previous to the enemy's attack, +checked and decimated the armies of Von Einem and Von Mudra, on its +second or battle-line. On July 16, 17 and 18, the enemy, now exhausted +and incapable of resuming their general attack, attempted local attempts +only, especially near Beaumont-sur-Vesle, to the north of Prosnes, and in the +region of Trigny and Pourcy, to the west, all of which were repulsed. Once +more Rheims escaped, and was destined from now on, to be gradually freed +from the enemy's grasp. The French counter-offensive began on July 18, +on the Aisne (<i>see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne"</i>), +extending shortly afterwards to the west of Rheims. On the 22nd, the army +of General Berthelot captured St. Euphraise and Bouilly, and on the 23rd +reached a point between Vrigny and the Ardre. A number of German +counter-attacks on July 24, 25 and 30 and August 1 failed to check +its advance. On August 2, Gueux and Thillois were recaptured. On +the 4th, the Vesle was reached to the east of Fismes, and the latter occupied, +while a small force crossed to the north bank of the river. On the 7th, after +fierce fighting, in which the French and Americans advanced foot by foot, +the Vesle was crossed to the east of Bazoches and Braine. On the 9th, +Fismette was taken.</p> + + +<h4>September 26 to November 11, 1918</h4> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i018.png" width="700" height="449" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The disengaging of Rheims, which had begun slowly, was now rapidly +accomplished. Two French offensives completely effected it in a few days—that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +of September 26 (<i>see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and Argonne"</i>), +under General Gouraud, and that of September 30, first by General Berthelot +and then by General Guillaumat. The first of these offensives, to the east, +brought about the fall of the Moronvilliers Heights, after outflanking them; +the second, to the west, captured the Saint-Thierry Heights, the French troops +crossing the Aisne-Marne Canal from Le Godat to La Neuvillette. This double +manœuvre forced the Germans, whose communications were threatened, to +beat a hasty retreat on October 5 along a twenty-seven mile front. An +important part of the old German front of 1914, and one of the most fiercely +disputed, collapsed suddenly. The formidable forts of Brimont and Nogent-l'Abbesse, +which had held Rheims under their guns for four years, fell. +This time the deliverance of Rheims was complete and final.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i019.png" width="700" height="741" alt="THE DISENGAGING OF RHEIMS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DISENGAGING OF RHEIMS</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +The dotted lines show the Allied advance at the date indicated in the middle of each zone +conquered. The line of departure is that of July 18 (18/7). On the evening of Oct. 6 (6/10)—the +upper thick dotted line—the town was completely disengaged. The Allied advance has +the appearance of a fan spreading out west of Rheims until Oct. 5 (5/10), when the Germans +were forced to make a deep retreat. +</div> + + +<h4>The Destruction of Rheims</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> +<p>Being unable to capture Rheims, the Germans reduced it to ruins +by bombardment. For four years (September 4, 1914, to October 5, +1918) they rained explosive and incendiary shells on it, almost without +intermission.</p> + +<p>On September 3, 1914, at about 11 a.m., a German aeroplane dropped +bombs on the town. A few of the inhabitants left, as the enemy approached, +but the majority remained. A lady-teacher, sixty years of age, Mlle. Fouriaux +(afterwards decorated with the Légion d'Honneur), who had charge of Hospital +No. 101 (formerly a high-school for girls), transferred the wounded to Epernay +and then returned on foot to Rheims.</p> + +<p>On September 4, at 9.30 a.m., when the enemy advance-guards were +already in the town, and a German officer was making requisitions at the +Town Hall, the bombardment began again. From 9.30 to 10.15 a.m., 176 +large shells fell into the town, three of which tore open the great gallery of +modern paintings in the Museum. Forty-nine civilians were killed and 130 +wounded, several of them mortally.</p> + +<p>The Germans, hard pressed by the French, evacuated Rheims on September +12. Two days later, at 9 a.m., they bombarded the town. Their fire was +especially directed against the headquarters of General Franchet d'Espérey, +near the Town Hall. On the following days, firing was resumed at the same +hour. On the 17th, the first fires broke out. Many civilians were killed or +wounded. The vicinity of the Cathedral, which was believed to be specially +aimed at, was among the places that suffered most. To protect the Cathedral, +which the Germans had fitted up on the 12th for the reception of their wounded, +some seventy to eighty German wounded were accommodated on straw in +the nave. The Red Cross flag was displayed on each tower, and notice given +to the enemy.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i020.jpg" width="700" height="538" alt="GERMAN SHELLS BURSTING IN A STREET OF RHEIMS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GERMAN SHELLS BURSTING IN A STREET OF RHEIMS</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><br /> +<img src="images/i021a.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="THE MONT DE PIÉTÉ" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MONT DE PIÉTÉ</span> +</div> + +<p>On the 18th, the bombardment began again at 8.15 a.m. In addition +to the Sub-Prefecture, which was almost entirely destroyed, as were also +many important factories, the Cathedral, in spite of the Red Cross flag, +was struck by 8-in. shells, which damaged the outside sculptures of the +lower windows of the main transept, smashing the 13th and 14th century +stained-glass. Splinters of stone killed a French gendarme and two wounded +Germans in the lower part of the south nave.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, the bombardment was intensified. The Town Hall, Museum, +hospitals (including that of the Girls' High School), the south side of the +Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace were all hit. Towards noon, incendiary +shells were rained on the centre of the town.</p> + +<p>At about 4 p.m., a shell fired the wooden scaffolding round the north-west +tower which had been under repair since 1913. The fire spread quickly +to the roof, the molten lead from which set fire to the straw in the nave.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i021b.jpg" width="500" height="417" alt="THE SAINT FRÈRES FACTORY IN RUINS (OCT. 1916) +(15 Rue de l'University)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SAINT FRÈRES FACTORY IN RUINS (OCT. 1916)<br /> +(<i>15 Rue de l'University</i>)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i022a.jpg" width="500" height="471" alt="CENTRAL WOOL CONTROL OFFICE IN SEPT., 1915" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CENTRAL WOOL CONTROL OFFICE IN SEPT., 1915</span> +</div> + +<p>In spite of a rescue party, who risked their lives in getting out the wounded, +a dozen of the German wounded perished in the flames. The conflagration +spread to the Archbishop's Palace, from which it was impossible to remove +the tapestries or the pre-historic Roman and Gothic collections. The Protestant +Church, the Offices of the Controller of silk and woollen cloths, and +the Colbert barracks along the eastern boulevards were burnt. Everywhere +new centres caught fire, and nearly thirty-five acres of buildings were +destroyed. On the 20th, the bombardment continued with equal violence, +then after a respite of two days began again. Of the Place Royale and the +Rue Colbert nothing remained but a heap of ruins.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i022b.jpg" width="500" height="427" alt="THE PROTESTANT CHURCH IN AUGUST, 1917 +(Boulevard Lundy)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PROTESTANT CHURCH IN AUGUST, 1917<br /> +(<i>Boulevard Lundy</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i023a.jpg" width="500" height="393" alt="KINDERGARTEN SCHOOL IN THE BOULEVARD LUNDY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">KINDERGARTEN SCHOOL IN THE BOULEVARD LUNDY</span> +</div> + +<p>On November 1 the number of civilians killed by shell fire had increased +to 282.</p> + +<p>From September 14, 1914, to the beginning of June, 1915, the town never +remained more than four days without being shelled. Up to the end of +November, 1914, the shells rarely went beyond the Cathedral and the theatre, +falling mostly in the suburbs of Cérès and Laon. On November 22, the +suburb of Paris was struck, and from that time onwards there was no security +for the inhabitants in any quarter of the city.</p> + +<p>As it would take too long to recount all the bombardments, only the most +terrible ones are here mentioned. On November 26, 1914, the German +guns fired all day, one shell alone killing twenty-three patients in the +Hospital for Incurables. On the night of February 21 and on February 22, +1915, more than 1,500 shells fell in the town, killing twenty civilians, setting +on fire a score of houses and piercing the vaulting of the Cathedral.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i023b.jpg" width="400" height="334" alt="RUE GAMBETTA +The Cathedral is seen at the end of the street." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUE GAMBETTA<br /> +<i>The Cathedral is seen at the end of the street.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> + +<p>On March 8, terrifying fires broke out again. On April 29 and July 20 +more than 500 shells, many of them incendiary, were counted. In April, 1916, +more than 1,200 projectiles struck the different quarters of the town in one +day. On August 13, whilst the town was being bombarded, seven German +aeroplanes dropped incendiary bombs, which burnt the Hôtel Dieu Hospital. +On October 25, the Germans fired more than 600 shells into Rheims and +more than 1,000 on the 27th.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i024.jpg" width="700" height="872" alt="THE BOMBARDMENT OF THE CATHEDRAL QUARTER +Part of the striking-points of the shells which fell around the Cathedral, as noted by the +architect of the latter (M. Sainsaulieu). The shells which struck the Cathedral were far too +numerous to allow all of them to be shown on the above plan." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BOMBARDMENT OF THE CATHEDRAL QUARTER<br /> +<i>Part of the striking-points of the shells which fell around the Cathedral, as noted by the +architect of the latter (M. Sainsaulieu). The shells which struck the Cathedral were far too +numerous to allow all of them to be shown on the above plan.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>On April 1, 1917, more than 2,800 shells fell in the town, and on the 4th, +2,121. According to the Official Communiqué, on the night of the 5th and +on Good Friday, the number of shells was 7,500. Easter-Day was likewise +terrible. On April 15, 19 and 24 the town received large numbers of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +8-in., 12-in. and 15-in. shells. On May 3 the Town Hall and 108 houses were +burnt. On the 4th the fires spread to fifteen neighbouring streets.</p> + +<p>From April 8 to the 15th the enemy rained incendiary shells on the +town without respite, and completed their work of destruction, in the course +of the afternoon of the 21st, by burning the centre of the town. Hardly anybody +was left in the latter, except the firemen, who, despite their prodigious +activity and valour, were unable to cope with the flames.</p> + +<p>Whole streets, often the finest, were burnt down, more than 700 houses +being destroyed.</p> + +<p>When, on October 5, the Germans retreated, the havoc caused by this +continual bombardment was incalculable. Of the town's 14,000 houses, +only about sixty were immediately habitable when the people came back.</p> + +<p>In addition to the material losses, there were, unfortunately, numerous +irreparable artistic and archæological losses.</p> + + +<h4>Life in Bombarded Rheims</h4> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i025.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="THE DESTRUCTIONS, PHOTOGRAPHED FROM AN AEROPLANE (Cliché Illustration)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE DESTRUCTIONS, PHOTOGRAPHED FROM AN AEROPLANE (<i>Cliché Illustration</i>)</span> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">ND.—</td><td align="left">The Cathedral.</td><td align="right">LO.—</td><td align="left">Hôtel du Lion d'Or.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">PR.—</td><td align="left">Place Royale.</td><td align="right">PA.—</td><td align="left">Archi-episcopal Palace.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">D.—</td><td align="left">Hôtel de la Douane.</td><td align="right">A.—</td><td align="left">The Cardinal's House.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">SG.—</td><td align="left">Société Générale Bank. </td><td align="right">EP.—</td><td align="left">Professional School for Young Ladies.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">P.—</td><td align="left">General Post Office.</td><td align="right">SP.—</td><td align="left">Sub-Prefecture.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">J.—</td><td align="left">Palais de Justice.</td><td align="right">PG.—</td><td align="left">Place Godinot.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">T.—</td><td align="left">Theatre.</td><td align="right">L.—</td><td align="left">Lycée.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">M.—</td><td align="left">Museum.</td><td align="right">C.—</td><td align="left">Colbert Barracks.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">GH.—</td><td align="left">Grand Hôtel.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>Although there were short respites, it may be said that for four years +Rheims led the life of a besieged town, under the fire of the German guns and +howitzers. The enemy increased the calibre of their shells and varied their +modes of bombardment, sometimes firing for a few hours, sometimes all day<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +long at the rate of one shell every three +minutes, or again at night. Sometimes 3-in. +shells would be used, at others "Jack Johnsons" +of 8-in., 12-in. and 15-in. calibre; sometimes +all four at the same time. Both +explosive and incendiary shells were used, +while aeroplane bombs, darts and asphyxiating +gas were resorted to occasionally. +Public holidays were the occasion of the +fiercest bombardments, in the hope of +increasing the number of victims. For +instance, the shelling was particularly murderous +on All Saints' Day of 1914, when +the eastern and southern cemeteries (generally +crowded on this day) were especially +aimed at. Easter Monday of 1916 and Good +Friday of 1917 were similarly favoured.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 165px;"> +<img src="images/i026a.jpg" width="165" height="350" alt="THE FIRST AND SECOND STORIES +OF A HOUSE IN THE RUE +D'ANJOU, AFTER THE BURSTING +OF AN 8-IN. SHELL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE FIRST AND SECOND STORIES +OF A HOUSE IN THE RUE +D'ANJOU, AFTER THE BURSTING +OF AN 8-IN. SHELL</span> +</div> + +<p>After each check—at Verdun, in Champagne, +on the Somme or wherever it might +be—the Germans revenged themselves on +Rheims. In this way the Cathedral was +fired by incendiary shells after the defeat on +the Marne in 1914. The awful fires of +February 22 and March 8, 1915, were +the German reply to their set-backs in +Champagne and Argonne. The Hôtel Dieu +hospital was burnt down in August, 1916, +the day after the Franco-British attack on +the Somme. The Town Hall was reduced +to ashes on May 3, 1917, after the +French offensive on the Champagne +hills. For the same reason the bombardments +reached their maximum +of intensity in April and May, 1918, +<i>i.e.</i> after the enemy had lost all hope +of crushing the Allies and taking +Paris.</p> + +<p>At the beginning of the siege the +population took refuge in the south-western +districts, which were not as +yet bombarded, but on and after +November 22, 1914, when the +German shells reached the suburb of +Paris, a large number of the inhabitants +left the town.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 220px;"> +<img src="images/i026b.jpg" width="220" height="350" alt="THE EFFECT OF AN 8-IN. SHELL IN THE +PREMISES OF "LA MUTUALITÉ," IN +THE RUE DES ELUS (SEPT. 8, 1915)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE EFFECT OF AN 8-IN. SHELL IN THE +PREMISES OF "LA MUTUALITÉ," IN +THE RUE DES ELUS (SEPT. 8, 1915)</span> +</div> + +<p>In February, 1915, the exodus +began again, but at the end of May +in that year there were still some +26,000 people in the town. In +February, 1917, after twenty-eight +months of bombardment, there +remained 17,100 people, or 100,000 +fewer than in 1914. At the beginning +of April in that year, the mayor +and later the sub-prefect, requested +all those who were not prevented +by their duties to leave the town.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + +<p>This invitation not having the desired effect, the military authorities, in +view of the increased intensity of the bombardment and the imminence +of the French offensive, announced that they could not guarantee food +supplies for the town, and decided that the civil population must leave not +later than April 10. The evacuation was effected by carts and motor-vehicles +to Epernay, where trains awaited the people.</p> + +<p>A part of the inhabitants returned to Rheims after the French offensive +of April-May, but for a few months only, as, in February, 1918, the +coming German offensive compelled the civil population again to leave the +town.</p> + +<p>During the thirty-one months, during which a considerable portion of the +population persisted in staying in Rheims (September, 1914, to April, 1917), +life and work went on in the bombarded city, the people adapting themselves +courageously to their precarious existence and to the danger. They were +supplied with helmets and gas masks, like the soldiers. Shell and bomb-proof +shelters were organised, and the cellars, with which the city abounds, became +the people's ordinary dwellings. The Town Council, with the exception of a few +members who left on the approach of the enemy, remained at the Town Hall +until it was destroyed, then installed themselves in a cellar, under the constant +chairmanship of the Mayor, Dr. Langlet. The services rendered by the +latter during these trying times were such that the French Premier decorated +him personally in November, 1914, with the <i>Croix de la Légion d'Honneur</i>. +The General Post Office had to change its quarters several times; but +until the complete evacuation of the town the postmen went their rounds +regularly.</p> + +<p>The Courts of Justice were set up in the cellars of the Palais-de-Justice.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i027.jpg" width="300" height="434" alt="REMOVING THE WORKS OF ART +IN JANUARY, 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">REMOVING THE WORKS OF ART +IN JANUARY, 1918</span> +</div> + +<p>The archbishop, Mgr. Luçon, was absent from Rheims in 1914, being +retained in Rome by the Council. As soon as the latter was ended, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +returned to Rheims and thereafter, like his coadjutor, Mgr. Neveux, and the +unmobilized clergy, he remained at his post until the evacuation of April, +1917. The Cathedral architect, M. Sainsaulieu, who, like Mgr. Luçon, +has been made a Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur, remained constantly +at his post, repairing from day to day, as well as might be, the damage +caused to the Cathedral, and saving the art treasures spared by the German +shells.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i028.jpg" width="400" height="323" alt="SCHOOL CHILDREN WITH GAS-MASKS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SCHOOL CHILDREN WITH GAS-MASKS</span> +</div> + +<p>The firemen, reinforced in March, 1915, by thirty-two of their comrades +from Paris, devoted themselves, at the risk of their lives, to fighting the +flames caused by the bombardments. Unfortunately, their courage and +devotion were often unequal to their task. For instance, twenty-two +separate fires occurred on the night of February 22, 1915. Their task was +rendered still more difficult by the fact that the Germans often fired +on the burning buildings to drive off the men who were trying to save +them.</p> + +<p>On July 6, 1917, the President of the French Republic fittingly acknowledged +the magnificent bravery of the firemen by personally decorating +their flag with the Croix de la Légion d'Honneur. At the same time he +conferred this dignity on the city (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a></i>).</p> + +<p>After remaining closed for several weeks, the schools re-opened. Until +then, the children had been too much in the streets looking for aluminium +fuses of shells, out of which they made rings, or for scraps of stained-glass +from the broken windows of the Cathedral. The first school, called the +"Maunoury" school, was installed on December 7, 1914, in a wine cellar +of the firm Pommery, Boulevard Henri-Vasnier, near the Rond-Point St. +Nicaise. On January 22, 1915, the "Joffre" school was opened in the +cellars of Messrs. Mumm, 24 Rue du Champ-de-Mars. Then came the +"Albert I." school, in the cellars of Messrs. Krug, 5 Rue Coquebert, and the +"Dubail" school in those of Messrs. Champion, Place St. Nicaise. In +addition to the underground schools, open-air classes were conducted. The +underground schools, in which the teaching staff, exclusively voluntary, lived +permanently, together with the school-children and their relatives, were +situated in the most exposed and frequently bombarded districts. The +"Dubail" school was struck three times: on March 6, 1915 (by an 8-in. +shell), and on March 25 and October 25, 1916. Luckily there were no +victims.</p> + +<p>The schools were quite close to the enemy lines, the distance varying from +about two-thirds of a mile to a mile and a half.</p> + +<p>In 1915 and 1916,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> the examinations for the "Elementary School Certificate" +took place in July, as usual. In 1915, the ceremony of the Annual +Prize Distribution, which had not taken place at Rheims for ten years, +was restored, the book-prizes for the pupils coming from every corner of +France.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 530px;"> +<img src="images/i029.jpg" width="530" height="800" alt="CARDINAL LUÇON, ARCHBISHOP OF RHEIMS, COMING OUT OF THE CATHEDRAL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CARDINAL LUÇON, ARCHBISHOP OF RHEIMS, COMING OUT OF THE CATHEDRAL</span> +</div> + +<p>The victualling of the town, thanks to the co-operation between the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +Municipal and Military Authorities, was effected with regularity. There +was never any shortage of bread. The butchers' and grocers' shops remained +open. The milk-women and hawkers donned their helmets and continued +to push their carts through the streets. The market-women remained at +their stalls. The nuns of St. Vincent-de-Paul, whose convent had been largely +destroyed, ensured the service of cheap meals, organised by the Municipality +for the poor. The undaunted inhabitants had their daily paper ("<i>L'Eclaireur +de l'Est</i>"), edited by M. Dramas, a courageous journalist, whose printing-house +was early wrecked by shell-fire, but who continued almost single-handed +to issue his paper.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i030a.jpg" width="400" height="344" alt="MILK-WOMAN, WITH HELMET, GOING +HER ROUND" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MILK-WOMAN, WITH HELMET, GOING +HER ROUND</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i030b.jpg" width="400" height="328" alt="WINE-CELLAR OF MESSRS. POMMERY USED +AS A DWELLING" title="" /> +<span class="caption">WINE-CELLAR OF MESSRS. POMMERY USED +AS A DWELLING</span> +<br /><br /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +<img src="images/i031a.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt="PANORAMIC VIEW, SEEN FROM ST. NICAISE HILL (p. 102)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PANORAMIC VIEW, SEEN FROM ST. NICAISE HILL (<i>p. <a href="#Page_102">102</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<h2>A VISIT TO RHEIMS</h2> + +<h6>(<i>pp. <a href="#Page_28">28</a> to <a href="#Page_120">120</a></i>)</h6> + + +<h3>THE CATHEDRAL (<i>pp. <a href="#Page_28">28</a> to <a href="#Page_60">60</a></i>)</h3> + +<h3>FIRST ITINERARY (<i>pp. <a href="#Page_61">61</a> to <a href="#Page_94">94</a></i>)</h3> + +<p><b>The Archi-episcopal Palace, Museum, Church of St. Jacques, Promenades, +Town Hall, Place Royale, Musicians' House, Mars Gate, +Faubourg Cérès, Church of St. André, Palais-de-Justice, etc.</b></p> + +<h3>SECOND ITINERARY (<i>pp. <a href="#Page_95">95</a> to <a href="#Page_120">120</a></i>)</h3> + +<p><b>The Lycée, Abbey of St. Pierre-les-Dames, Rue Barbâtre, Church of +St. Maurice, Church of St. Remi, Hôtel-Dieu Hospital, etc.</b></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i031b.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="GERMAN PRISONERS CLEARING A STREET (OCT., 1918)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GERMAN PRISONERS CLEARING A STREET (OCT., 1918)</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Cathedral</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> +<p>The Cathedral of Rheims, which Charles VIII. declared to be "pre-eminent +among all the churches of the kingdom," and which a local poet in +the reign of Louis XIII. extolled above the seven wonders of the world, is +one of the most beautiful Gothic churches extant.</p> + +<p>Few edifices combine such grandeur, simplicity and grace; still fewer, its +characteristic unity and symmetry.</p> + +<p>The work of at least four architects, the building operations extended +over two centuries, yet it has retained rare unity both of plan and style. +The whole is so harmonious as to give the impression of being the effort of a +single master-mind.</p> + + +<h4>Historical Account</h4> + +<p>The Cathedral stands on the site of former churches, successively erected +between the 5th and 13th centuries. On the night of May 6, 1210, a terrible +fire destroyed the then existing edifice, together with a portion of the city.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i032.jpg" width="600" height="621" alt="THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE THE WAR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE THE WAR</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + +<p>Exactly one year later, Archbishop Aubri de Humbert laid the first stone +of a new edifice, which was destined to become the Cathedral of to-day.</p> + +<p>Begun in 1211, the building went on without pause for twenty years, +after which, there was a slackening, followed by a vigorous resumption in +1299. Another pause occurred during the Hundred Years' War. The +Cathedral, less the tower spires provided for in the plans, was finished in 1428. +The spires were not yet built when the great fire of July 24th, 1481, entirely +destroyed the roof of the Cathedral, further deferring their construction, +which was subsequently abandoned.</p> + +<p>The funds for this colossal work were furnished partly by the clergy and the +people, partly by Papal Indulgences granted to donors, and by collections in +Christian lands, especially in the ecclesiastical province of Rheims. The +wonderful plans of the Cathedral were long believed to be the work of <i>Robert de +Coucy</i>, whereas the original ones were in fact drawn by <i>Jean d'Orbais</i>, who +began their execution between 1211 and 1231. His work was continued with +wonderful fidelity by <i>Jean-le-Loup</i>, from 1231-1247; by <i>Gaucher of Rheims</i> +in 1247-1255, <i>Bernard of Soissons</i> from 1255 to 1290, <i>Robert de Coucy</i> until +1311, and afterwards by <i>Maître Colard</i>, <i>Gilles le Maçon</i>, <i>Jean de Dijon</i> and +<i>Colard de Givry</i> in the course of the 14th and 15th centuries.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i033.jpg" width="600" height="627" alt="THE CATHEDRAL AFTER THE FIRE OF SEPT. 19, 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL AFTER THE FIRE OF SEPT. 19, 1914</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + +<p>In the 17th and 18th centuries only repairs rendered necessary by the +wear of the stone were effected. In the 19th century, beginning in 1845, +important restorations, principally by Viollet-le-Duc, were carried out with +regularity.</p> + +<p>The Cathedral's approximate measurements are 480 feet long (it is the +longest church in France), and 160 feet wide at the intersection of the transept. +The vaulting, less lofty than that at Beauvais (156 feet) and Amiens (143 feet), +is 123 feet in height. The towers are six in number (as in the cathedral at +Laon), of which the four situated at the extremities of the transept have +never had more than one storey. The principal towers are about 266 feet +in height, or about 60 feet higher than those of Nôtre-Dame in Paris.</p> + +<p>The plan of the Cathedral is in shape a Latin cross, with radiating chapels. +It is built entirely of stone from the neighbourhood of Rheims. Forty +pillars support the vaults, which are further sustained by fifty buttresses. +Three great doorways and eight secondary doors give access to the interior, +which is lighted by a hundred windows and rose-windows; 2,303 figures of +all sizes decorate the exterior and interior.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i034.jpg" width="400" height="657" alt="THE CATHEDRAL PHOTOGRAPHED FROM AEROPLANE IN 1916" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL PHOTOGRAPHED FROM AEROPLANE IN 1916</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Cathedral During the War</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p> +<p>In revenging themselves on Rheims for their disappointments and failures, +the Germans seem to have been particularly determined to destroy the building +which is at once one of the most precious artistic treasures of France and one +of the most ancient evidences of her history. In 1814 the then Allies bombarded +Rheims but respected the Cathedral. It is true that there were +Germans who found fault with this respectful forbearance. One of them, +<i>Johann Joseph Goëres</i>, author of a voluminous work entitled "<i>Christian +Mysticism</i>," dared to write in April, 1814: "<i>Destroy, reduce to ashes, this +Rheims basilica, where Chlodoric was consecrated, and where was born that +empire of the Franks, those turncoat brothers of the noble Germans; burn the +Cathedral.</i>" In the course of the recent war the Germans followed the +vindictive advice of Goëres, although, less frank than he, they did not dare, +in face of the indignation of Christendom and of the whole world, boast of +their vandalism.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i035.jpg" width="500" height="599" alt="THE PIERCED VAULTING AND TOWERS OF THE CATHEDRAL IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PIERCED VAULTING AND TOWERS OF THE CATHEDRAL IN 1919</span> +</div> + +<p>By way of excuse they alleged sometimes errors in firing, sometimes +that the French had established a battery of artillery near the Cathedral +and an observation-post in one of the towers (a projector was installed on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +the Cathedral, on September 13, 1914, <i>i.e.</i> the day that the French re-entered +Rheims, and it remained there only one night).</p> + +<p>On November 9, 1914, General Rouquerol declared to the French Government, +who had demanded an enquiry, that the nearest battery to the Cathedral +was at that time more than 1,200 yards away; that on the day (September +19) the Cathedral was set on fire by the German shells, the nearest French +batteries were still quite close to the spot occupied by the above-mentioned +battery, whose position the French Premier verified personally. The +General concluded that the German artillery could not have made an error +of 1,200 yards in firing, but that they had deliberately aimed at the +Cathedral.</p> + +<p>The Cathedral, though terribly shattered, is still standing. The description +of the edifice (pp. <a href="#Page_33">33</a> to <a href="#Page_60">60</a>) gives particulars of the damage and destructions +which occurred principally in September, 1914, April, 1917, and July, 1918.</p> + +<p>On September 19, 1914, incendiary shells set fire to various portions +of the building. The roof was burnt, but the vaulting escaped injury. The +tambours of the side doors and the statues on the latter were destroyed by +the flames. The 18th century stalls, consecration carpet of Charles X. +and archi-episcopal throne were likewise burnt. The great rose-window of +the western façade, together with several other stained-glass windows, were +destroyed, as were also the "Angel" steeple and its caryatids above the +chevet. The northern tower was seriously injured by the burning of the +scaffolding around it (<i>see photo, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a></i>). The statues were eaten into by the +flames and subsequently crumbled away, some of them being irrecoverably +lost.</p> + +<p>In 1915 and 1916 the Cathedral was struck a hundred times, but it was +during the bombardments of April 15, 19 and 24, 1917, that it suffered +most. For seven consecutive hours, at the rate of twelve per hour, the Germans +fired 12-in., 14-in. and 15-in. shells on the edifice, causing terrible havoc, +especially to the south-western side.</p> + +<p>During the terrible bombardments of April, 1918, the Cathedral did not +suffer—for once the Germans seemed to have decided to spare it; but, +unfortunately, the truce did not last. In the following months the bombardment +began again, and the ravages increased, especially in the two towers +and the vaulting. However, both vaulting and towers, in spite of their +injuries, have not been irreparably damaged in their vital parts, and are +capable of restoration.</p> + +<p>That the damage is not more serious is due to the protective measures +taken by the Cathedral architect and by the Department of Historical Monuments. +As early as 1915, the doorways of the western façade were protected +with beams and sand-bags (<i>see photo, p. <a href="#Page_25">25</a></i>), while the Treasure was removed +and placed in safety, together with the paintings and tapestries.</p> + +<p>In 1916 and following years masonry protections were placed around +some of the more valuable statues. The fallen fragments of carvings and +sculpture were carefully collected, with a view to future restoration. In +this way the débris of the head of the beautiful statue of the "Visitation" +Group, known as the "Smile of Rheims," on the left-hand side of the central +doorway of the western façade, were saved.</p> + +<p>At the beginning of 1918, it was found possible to save the remains of +the stained-glass of the windows, and other glass-work still intact—amongst +which was some of the finest in the nave. The salvage was difficult, for +scaffolding would have furnished the Germans with an excuse for further +bombardments. Recourse was had to a small body of Paris firemen and +two glaziers who, in foggy weather, and before daybreak, climbed up to +the iron framework of the windows and accomplished their work at great +heights with remarkable courage and skill.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;"> +<a href="images/i038-hi.jpg"><img src="images/i038.jpg" width="800" height="806" alt="REIMS" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<h2>REIMS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +SCALE.<br /> +------------------------------<br /> +0 500 1,000 M.<br /> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">PORTE DE MARS</td><td align="left">A.</td><td align="left">D-3-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">MUSICIANS' HOUSE</td><td align="left">B.</td><td align="left">D-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">BARRACKS</td><td align="left">C.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">**</td><td align="left">CATHEDRAL</td><td align="left">D.</td><td align="left">D-4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">ARCHI-EPISCOPAL PALACE </td><td align="left">E.</td><td align="left">D-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">CHURCH OF ST. MAURICE</td><td align="left">F.</td><td align="left">E-5-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">POLICE STATION</td><td align="left">G.</td><td align="left">D-2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">HOTEL DE VILLE</td><td align="left">H.</td><td align="left">D-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">LAW COURTS</td><td align="left">J.</td><td align="left">D-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">*</td><td align="left">HOTEL DIEU</td><td align="left">K.</td><td align="left">E-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">*</td><td align="left">CHURCH OF ST. REMY</td><td align="left">L.</td><td align="left">E-6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">MUSEUM</td><td align="left">M.</td><td align="left">D-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">OCTROIS (Tolls)</td><td align="left">O.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">SUB-PREFECTURE</td><td align="left">P.</td><td align="left">E-4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">THEATRE</td><td align="left">T.</td><td align="left">D-4-5</td></tr> +<tr><td></td></tr> +<tr><td></td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">POPULATION</td><td align="right">115,178</td><td align="left">H</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">ALTITUDE</td><td align="right">83</td><td align="left">M.</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<div class="center"><br /><br />PLACES.</div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Luton</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td align="left">—Pl. de la République</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td align="left">—Pl. du Boulingrin</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Bétheny.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left">—Square Colbert</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left">—Pl. St. André</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td align="left">—Pl. des Marchés</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Colin.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Royale</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left">—Esplanade Cérès</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left">—Place du Parvis</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Belle Tour</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13.</td><td align="left">—Pl. de l'Hôpital Civil</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14.</td><td align="left">—Pl. St. Remy</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15.</td><td align="left">—Pl. St. Nicaise</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16.</td><td align="left">—Rond point St. Nicaise</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17.</td><td align="left">—Pl. Dieu Lumière</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<div class="center"><br />HOTELS.<br /></div> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left">Hotel Continental</td><td align="left">a</td><td align="left">C-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Hotel du Nord</td><td align="left">b</td><td align="left">C-4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Temporary Annexe Grand Hotel</td><td align="left">c</td><td align="left">D-5</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>[.] Post Office Telegraph Telephone f E-4<br /> +<br /> +======= Roads and streets to be avoided by motor cars.<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i039.jpg" width="500" height="644" alt="Enlarged Plan of Centre of Town." title="" /> +<div class="smcap"><span class="caption">Enlarged Plan of Centre of Town.</span></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 522px;"> +<img src="images/i041.png" width="522" height="700" alt="CATHEDRAL OF RHEIMS" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>CATHEDRAL OF RHEIMS</h2> + +<h4>Plan of Cathedral +and +Archi-episcopal Palace</h4> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td align="left">Staircase of the Towers.</td><td align="right">9.</td><td align="left">The Treasure (p. <a href="#Page_58">58</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td align="left">Site of the Labyrinth (p. <a href="#Page_53">53</a>).</td><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left">Clock with Automatons (p. <a href="#Page_55">55</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td align="left">Main Pulpit (p. <a href="#Page_53">53</a>).</td><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left">Tombstone of Hughes Libergier (p. <a href="#Page_55">55</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td align="left">Site of "La Rouelle de Saint-Nicaise" (Flag-stone with memorial inscription) (p. <a href="#Page_53">53</a>). </td><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left">Norman Door (p. <a href="#Page_45">45</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left">Pillar supporting the "Vintage Scene" (p. <a href="#Page_52">52</a>).</td><td align="right">13.</td><td align="left">Great Organ (p. <a href="#Page_55">55</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left">Altar of the Rear Choir (p. <a href="#Page_57">57</a>).</td><td align="right">14.</td><td align="left">Lady Chapel (p. <a href="#Page_55">55</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td align="left">14th century Tombstones (p. <a href="#Page_53">53</a>).</td><td align="right">15.</td><td align="left">Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (p. <a href="#Page_56">56</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td align="left">Tomb of Cardinal de Lorraine.</td><td align="right">16.</td><td align="left">Rosary Chapel (p. <a href="#Page_57">57</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">17.</td><td align="left">Roman Mosaic (p. <a href="#Page_57">57</a>).</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p> +<h4>West Façade</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See full views on pp. <a href="#Page_28">28</a> and <a href="#Page_29">29</a></i>).</h6> + +<p>Better than any other, this part of the building reveals the desire for +unity and harmony which guided the various builders of the Cathedral. +The doorway, probably designed by Jean d'Orbais, was very likely not begun +till about 1250, by Gaucher, of Rheims. Bernard of Soissons built the +great rose-window and the façade as far as the Gallery of the Kings. The +architects of the 14th century built the lateral parts forming the first storey +of the towers, the Kings' Gallery and the gable. The upper storey of the +towers was only finished in the 15th century. Except for slight modifications +in detail, the original plan was respected. This façade, with its full open-work +towers and immense rose-window, demonstrates that the architects knew +how to obtain the maximum of resistance with wonderfully light construction.</p> + +<p>The <b>Western Doorway</b> (<i>photo below</i>) comprises three doors flanked by +two full arcades, and surmounted by gables adorned with statues.</p> + +<p>Between the gables are pinnacles on small columns (the left-hand ones +have been destroyed). At the foot of the pinnacles are statues of seated +musicians, which recall those on the house in the Rue de Tambour (<i>see p. +<a href="#Page_80">80</a></i>), but which have been partly destroyed.</p> + +<p>The splaying of the doors is adorned with great statues backed up against +columns and separated by smaller columns, the capitals of which are connected +to a foliate frieze of elegant design. The bases are ornamented with +carved drapery. The tympana of the doors contain window-lights, while +five rows of statues, separated by lines of flowers and foliage, fill up the archings, +which suffered severely in the bombardment of September 19, 1914. +About a dozen subjects were destroyed or spoilt. During the subsequent +bombardments, shell splinters did further damage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i042.jpg" width="600" height="482" alt="DOORWAY OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE THE WAR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOORWAY OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE THE WAR</span> +</div> + +<p>Generally<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> the sculptural decoration on the ground-floor dates from the +middle of the 13th century.</p> + +<p>In September, 1914, several of the great statues of the lateral splayings +were completely destroyed and the others more or less seriously damaged. +However, subsequent damage was slight, thanks to the protective measures +taken in 1915.</p> + + +<h4>Central Door</h4> + +<p>The lavish decoration of the central door suffered mutilations during the +last three centuries. The inscription carved on the lintel dates from 1802 and +replaced carving descriptive of the life of the Virgin, destroyed during the +Revolution. The sculpture on the arches, especially that of the three upper +lines, was partly restored in the 17th and 18th centuries.</p> + +<p>The beautiful statues in the splayings of the door represent: <i>to the right</i> +(<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_36">36</a></i>), the <b>Annunciation</b> and <b>Visitation</b> (the latter group is striking +by reason of its inspiration from the antique); <i>to the left, the</i> <b>Purification</b> +(<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_36">36</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The Virgin of the Annunciation group was damaged by shell splinters +on September 4, 1914.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 387px;"> +<img src="images/i043.jpg" width="387" height="600" alt="CENTRAL DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE +THE WAR (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CENTRAL DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE +THE WAR (Cliché LL.)</span> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +<img src="images/i044a.jpg" width="400" height="387" alt="The Annunciation. The Visitation. +RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF CENTRAL DOOR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Annunciation. The Visitation.<br /> +RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF CENTRAL DOOR</span> +</div> + +<p>In the gable, a pretty group representing the <b>Coronation of the Holy +Virgin</b> was injured by the fires of 1914.</p> + +<p>Of the two fine statues on the top of the buttresses framing the Central +door, only the right-hand one (<b>Solomon</b>) exists to-day; the other, representing +the <b>Queen of Sheba</b>, was destroyed by a shell in September, 1914, +except the head, which was saved.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i044b.jpg" width="700" height="572" alt="LEFT-HAND SPLAYING AND LINTEL OF THE CENTRAL DOOR (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEFT-HAND SPLAYING AND LINTEL OF THE CENTRAL DOOR (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Right-Hand Door</h4> +<h6><i>See photograph on p. <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</i></h6> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the lintel, <b>Saint Paul</b>, blind, is being led to Ananias, who restores +his sight and baptizes him.</p> + +<p>On the jambs are pretty little figures which have been variously interpreted. +The majority represent vices and virtues, <i>e.g. on the inner portion</i>: +<b>Courage</b>, in knightly raiment; <b>Cowardice</b> fleeing before a hare; <b>Charity</b> +holding out a purse; <b>Avarice</b> with a cash-box; <i>on the outer portion</i>: <b>Pride</b> +blasted and overthrown with his horse; <b>Sloth</b>, represented as a man seated +with his head resting on his elbows, in a stall; <b>Wisdom</b> seated, holding a book +and a lighted lamp. On the same jambs other figures are supposed to symbolise +the seasons: <b>Autumn</b> sitting on a vine-trellis; <b>Winter</b> standing before a +fire place; <b>Spring</b> in the midst of flowers; <b>Summer</b> with bared chest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i045.jpg" width="400" height="440" alt="RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE RIGHT-HAND DOOR +The two central figures have been decapitated." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE RIGHT-HAND DOOR<br /> +<i>The two central figures have been decapitated.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The six statues in the splaying on the right (<i>photo above</i>) represent: the +aged <b>Simeon</b> holding Christ in his arms; <b>John the Baptist</b>, <b>Isaiah</b>, <b>Moses</b> +with the brazen serpent and the tables of the Law; <b>Abraham</b> about to sacrifice +Isaac; <b>Samuel</b> carrying a lamb (which has been broken). They differ by +their more archaic style from the other sculptures of the lower façade, and +closely resemble those of the central door of the north transept of the Cathedral +of Chartres. Like the latter, they date without doubt from the beginning +of the 13th century. Possibly they belonged to an earlier doorway, or were +prepared in advance for a purpose not realised, being finally utilised in the +place where they now stand.</p> + +<p>The <b>Last Judgment</b>, in the gable, was severely damaged by shell splinters.</p> + + +<h4>The Left-Hand Door</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> +<p>This door, on account of the scaffolding which surrounded it, was seriously +damaged by the fires of September, 1914 (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_17">17</a></i>).</p> + +<p>On the lintel is <b>Saint Paul</b>, thrown from his horse at the gates of Damascus. +On the outside of the jambs, fourteen seated figures meditating, are supposed +by some to be embodiments of the arts and sciences, but represent more +probably prophets or teachers. Along the splayings are eleven statues, +which have not definitely been identified.</p> + +<p>In the left-hand splaying is <b>Saint Nicaise</b> between two angels. The +right-hand angel, generally known as the "<b>Smile of Rheims</b>," was decapitated +on September 19, 1914. Fortunately, the fragments of the head of this +fine statue were saved.</p> + +<p>The sculptures in the archings depict scenes from the Passion, while the +group which adorns the gable represents <b>The Crucifixion</b>.</p> + +<p>These archings and gable were greatly damaged by the fires of September +19, 1914, and the bombardments.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i046.jpg" width="700" height="728" alt="LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT +The headless angel on the left against the door was known as the "Smile of Rheims."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT<br /> +<i>The headless angel on the left against the door was known as the "Smile of Rheims."</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i047a.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="LEFT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, BEFORE THE WAR +St. Nicaise (between two angels) and St. Clotilda. The angel on the right, known as the "Smile +of Rheims," was decapitated. (See photo, p. 38.) Cliché LL." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />LEFT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, BEFORE THE WAR<br /> +<i>St. Nicaise (between two angels) and St. Clotilda. The angel on the right, known as the "Smile +of Rheims," was decapitated. (See photo, p. <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.) Cliché LL.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i047b.jpg" width="500" height="582" alt="GABLE OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, WITH CRUCIFIXION +(Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />GABLE OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, WITH CRUCIFIXION<br /> +(<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i048.jpg" width="700" height="545" alt="FIRST STOREY OF THE WEST FRONT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">FIRST STOREY OF THE WEST FRONT</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The First Storey</h4> + +<p>In the centre is the great rose-window, best seen from the interior of the +nave. The stained-glass is broken. On either side, against the arching +which surmounts it, were two large statues. One of them, <i>David as a youth +in shepherd's garb</i> (also known as the <i>Pilgrim</i>), was destroyed by the +bombardments. The other very fine statue is variously said to be <i>Saul</i>, +<i>Solomon</i> and <i>St. James</i>.</p> + +<p>The arching which begins above these statues was adorned with small +groups of figures representing scenes from the life of Solomon. Most of them +were destroyed at the same time as the Pilgrim statue.</p> + +<p>Above the arching, a gigantic statue (twice restored) represents <i>David +challenging Goliath</i>. The bombardments of 1914 destroyed a similar +statue on the left representing <i>David slaying Goliath with a stone from his +sling</i>.</p> + +<p>The first storey of the towers flanking the rose-window is broken by lofty +twin bays crowned with gables. The niches and pinnacles of the buttresses +are identical with those of the nave, but the style of their decoration denotes +a more recent period (early 14th century).</p> + +<p>The northern tower was badly damaged by the bombardment of September +19, 1914, which fired the scaffolding around it (<i>see photo, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a></i>). +Two of the pinnacled niches surmounting the buttresses were decapitated, +while the flames completely disfigured the statues, including that +of Christ.</p> + +<p>A large calibre shell burst in the southern tower on April 19, 1917, +causing very serious damage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +<img src="images/i049.jpg" width="500" height="522" alt="SECOND STOREY AND UPPER STOREY OF THE TOWERS" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />SECOND STOREY AND UPPER STOREY OF THE TOWERS</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Second Storey</h4> + +<p>The second storey comprises a series of niches, surmounted by sharply +pointed gables and adorned with gigantic statues, known as the <i>Kings' +Gallery</i>.</p> + +<p>The central group, consisting of seven figures, commemorates the <i>Baptism +of Clovis</i>. Clovis, standing in the baptismal font; between Saint Remi, +receiving the Sacred Ampulla, and Clotilda.</p> + +<p>The balcony in front of the <i>Baptism of Clovis</i> was formerly called the +<i>Gloria Gallery</i>, as it was the custom for the choir-boys to sing the <i>Gloria</i> +there on Palm Sunday.</p> + + +<h4>The Upper Portion of the Towers</h4> + +<p>The upper storey of the towers, built on an octagonal plan, is flanked +with four open-work turrets, one of which contains stairs leading to the +platforms.</p> + +<p>The northern tower, badly damaged by the fire of 1914, lost several of +the fine colonnettes of its corner turrets in 1918.</p> + +<p>In the same year, the pierced staircase of the southern tower was almost +entirely destroyed.</p> + +<p>At the time of the last restorations, the foundations of the spires provided +for in the original plans, but which have never been built, were laid.</p> + +<p>In the belfry of the northern tower are two magnificent deep-toned bells. +One of them is modern and was cast at Le Mans, and blessed in 1849 by +Cardinal Gousset. The other, one of the finest bells known, and presented +to the church in 1570 by Cardinal Charles de Lorraine, is the work of the +Rheims metal-founder, Pierre Deschamps.</p> + +<p>The scaffolding fire of 1914 reached the belfry, bringing down the bells, +which were broken in the fall.</p> + + +<h4>The Lateral Façades and Chevet</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> +<p>The lateral façades of the Cathedral are of rare beauty. Nowhere have +abutments and flying buttresses been so harmoniously employed as here. +They are not merely supports, but form part of the decorative scheme of the +nave, and ensure the harmony of the whole. Buttresses, finished off with +pinnacles, serve as points of support for two superimposed flying-buttresses. +The octagonal pinnacles are flanked with four small triangular pyramids +and supported in front by two slender detached columns. Between the latter, +under canopies, angels with outstretched wings carry the instruments of +the Passion and various other emblems (<i>see photo, p. <a href="#Page_49">49</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Skirt the Cathedral on the left, passing in front of the North Façade (see photo +below), to reach the Northern Transept.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i050.jpg" width="500" height="435" alt="THE +NORTHERN +TRANSEPT +IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE +NORTHERN +TRANSEPT +IN 1919</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Northern Façade and Transept</h4> + +<p>The transept is pierced with broad bays, whose completion, as in all the +windows of the Cathedral, consists of two twin arches surmounted by a six-leaved +rose. The niches in the buttresses are ornamented with statues +believed by some to represent Kings of France. At any rate, that of the +buttress on the western front of the north-west tower greatly resembles +the figure of St. Louis carved on the doorway of the church of St. Vincent at +Carcassonne.</p> + +<p>The carvings of the lower windows were either destroyed or damaged +on September 19, 1914, at the same time as the stained-glass. The two +towers which flank the crossings were left unfinished.</p> + +<p>Before the fire of 1481, there was a lantern over the intersection of the +transept.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="500" height="562" alt="CENTRAL +DOOR +OF THE +NORTHERN +TRANSEPT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CENTRAL +DOOR +OF THE +NORTHERN +TRANSEPT</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Central Door of the Northern Transept</h4> + +<p>The sculptural decoration, while rich, is more sober than that of the +doorway of the western façade. It is commemorative of the glory of the +Archbishops of Rheims.</p> + +<p>The statue of the Pontiff with a tiara, backing up to the dividing-pillar, +is supposed to be that of St. Sixtus, first Bishop of Rheims. In the splaying, +on the left, is St. Nicaise holding his head in his hands, between St. Eutropia, +an angel and a figure improbably said to be Clovis.</p> + +<p>The pediment was pierced by a shell and scarred with splinters. It is +divided into five tiers, and represent the life of St. Remi and St. Nicaise.</p> + +<p>Beginning at the bottom, the figures represent: <i>on the first tier</i>, the +beheading of St. Nicaise by the Vandals and the Baptism of Clovis by +St. Remi; <i>on the second</i>, St. Remi, as a child, restores sight to Montanus +and, as a man, exorcises the demons who had set fire to Rheims; <i>on the third</i>, +the story of Job; <i>on the fourth</i>, the restoring to life of a young Toulouse +girl, and the miracle of the cask filled with wine by St. Remi; <i>on the fifth</i>, +Christ between two angels.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +<img src="images/i052a.jpg" width="700" height="351" alt="LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT +The dead rise from their graves." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT<br /> +<i>The dead rise from their graves.</i></span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Left-Hand Door of the Northern Transept</h4> + +<p>This door, which has long been walled up, is called <i>The Doorway of the +Last Judgment</i>, on account of the carving on the tympanum.</p> + +<p>In the upper part, Christ is supported on one side by the Holy Virgin, +and on the other by John the Baptist. Below (<i>two rows</i>) the dead rise from +their graves (<i>photo above</i>). Lower down, on one side are <i>The Virtues</i>, represented +by seated women; on the other, <i>The Vices</i>, mutilated in 1780 on +account of their realism. On the lowest tier, <i>to the left</i>, angels carry souls to +Abraham's bosom: <i>on the right</i>, Satan leads a chain of damned souls to Hell +(<i>photo below</i>), amongst whom are a king, a bishop, and a monk.</p> + +<p>In the arching are three rows of angels carrying books or blowing trumpets, +and the wise and foolish virgins.</p> + +<p>Backing up to the dividing pillar is an exceedingly fine 13th century +statue, which recalls the "<i>Beautiful God</i>" of Amiens Cathedral (<i>see the +Michelin Guide: Amiens Before and During the War</i>); Jesus blessing with +His right hand, holds the globe of the world in His left (<i>see photo p. <a href="#Page_45">45</a></i>).</p> + +<p>This statue was decapitated by a shell which struck the doorway in 1918, +also taking off the head of the first statue on the left-hand portion of the +doorway.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i052b.jpg" width="700" height="356" alt="LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT +Satan drags a chain of damned Souls to Hell." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT<br /> +<i>Satan drags a chain of damned Souls to Hell.</i></span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the plinth of the dividing pillar is a bas-relief, +remarkable for its delicate carving.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 146px;"> +<img src="images/i053.jpg" width="146" height="500" alt="DIVIDING-PILLAR OF +THE LEFT-HAND DOOR +OF THE NORTHERN +TRANSEPT +The statue of Christ +was decapitated by a +shell. +On the plinth is the +legend of the Master-draper +(see text opposite)." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DIVIDING-PILLAR OF +THE LEFT-HAND DOOR +OF THE NORTHERN +TRANSEPT<br /> +<i>The statue of Christ +was decapitated by a +shell.</i><br /> +<i>On the plinth is the +legend of the Master-draper +(see text opposite).</i></span> +</div> + +<p>According to local tradition, this plinth was erected +at the expense of a dishonest master-draper, convicted +of selling by false measure.</p> + +<p><i>On the left</i>, the merchant is seen in his shop. In +front of the counter, customers of both sexes look at +the outspread stuffs, while clerks write in books.</p> + +<p><i>On the right</i>, the merchant kneels before a statue of +the Virgin in penance.</p> + +<p>Near-by, burgesses talk together and seem to +judge the delinquent's conduct severely.</p> + +<p>The six statues against the walls represent the +apostles: <i>on the right</i>, St. John, St. James and St. +Paul; <i>on the left</i>, St. Andrew, St. Peter and St. +Bartholomew.</p> + +<p>The rose is carved in a voussoir; the uprights are +decorated with statues of Adam and Eve in long +tunics, and the arch with twenty-two groups of small +figures depicting, <i>from left to right</i>, the story of Adam +and Eve, the various tasks to which they and their +descendants were condemned, and the story of Cain +and Abel.</p> + + +<p>Above the rose an open-work gallery contains +seven statues of the prophets. The statues are 13th century, but the +gallery was restored in 1846.</p> + +<p>The balustrading and triangular gable flanked with pinnacles, which +dominate the gallery, date from the beginning of the 16th century, but have +been repaired in recent times. On the gable is a colossal <b>Annunciation</b>; +the Archangel and Mary are under Flamboyant canopies.</p> + + +<h4>The Right-Hand Door of the Northern Transept (Norman Door)</h4> + +<p>This little door formerly connected, by means of a vaulted passage, the +Cathedral with the Cloister (no longer existing) of the Chapter.</p> + +<p>Its tympanum is a relic of the Cathedral built by Archbishop Samson. +It depicts, in beautiful Romanesque relief, a majestic Virgin. The archivolt +which frames it, doubtless belonged to a 12th century tomb. At the top of +the arch, angels carry away a soul, while on the uprights, clerks officiate at +a funeral service.</p> + + +<h4>The Chevet</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See photograph of Cathedral, taken from aeroplane, p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</i>)</h6> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> +<p>The Chevet, begun by Jean D'Orbais and finished by Jean Le Loup, +was inaugurated by the Chapter about 1241. It is one of the finest 13th +century chevets in existence.</p> + +<p>It is stayed by two rows of buttresses supporting double flying-buttresses. +Like those of the nave, the buttresses are surmounted with pinnacles, beneath +which niches shelter statues of flying angels.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 351px;"> +<img src="images/i054.jpg" width="351" height="500" alt="THE CHEVET BEFORE THE WAR +One of the finest 13th century Chevets." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHEVET BEFORE THE WAR<br /> +<i>One of the finest 13th century Chevets.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>All around the apse, between the windows of the radial chapels and on +the main buttresses, are statues of angels, some of them of great beauty.</p> + +<p>The 13th century clerestory gallery, which surrounds the upper portion +of the apsidal chapels, was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. It was partially +destroyed by the bombardments. On April 19, 1917, three large calibre +shells, which burst on the chevet, destroyed forty to fifty feet of it. At the +same time, the buttress jutting on the centre of the destroyed gallery lost its +pinnacle, and behind, an arch of the flying-buttress. The buttresses between +the above-mentioned one and the corner of the South Transept Tower lost +either a colonnette or their pinnacle with angel statue.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + +<p>The slender spire which, before the War, rose above the chevet, was known +as the <b>Angel Spire</b>, on account of a bronze angel which surmounted it, and +which was removed in 1860 as unsafe. This spire, the work of Colard le +Moine, was built in 1485, after the fire of 1481. Its pierced base with +balustrading was supported by eight leaden caryatids, some of which, in +the popular costume of the Louis XI. period, became deformed in consequence +of the rotting of their oaken core.</p> + +<p>The fire of September 19, 1914, caused by the German shells, entirely +destroyed the spire and its caryatids.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i055.jpg" width="500" height="549" alt="THE CHEVET IN 1919 +The roof with the "Angel Spire" was destroyed." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHEVET IN 1919<br /> +<i>The roof with the "Angel Spire" was destroyed.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The bombardments in the spring of the following year further damaged +the gallery, also causing fresh mutilations to the flying buttresses and the +pinnacles of the apse.</p> + +<p>A plain stone gallery with blind arcading, which formerly ran round the +chevet on a level with the springing of the roof, was replaced by Viollet-le-Duc, +with pierced battlemented arcading. Part of the original gallery which +surrounded the entire building, level with the roof, still exists on the northern +side.</p> + +<p>On October 12, 1914, a shell destroyed about twenty five feet of the +gallery round the chevet, which later was further damaged by another shell.</p> + + +<h4>The Lateral Façade and South Transept</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> +<p>This façade and transept (<i>which should be seen from the courtyard of the +Archbishop's Palace</i>) are identical, as a whole, with the northern façade and +transept (<i>see pp. <a href="#Page_28">28</a> and <a href="#Page_42">42</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The gallery at the springing of the roof of the nave was entirely rebuilt in +1878 by Architect Millet, in a style foreign to that of the Cathedral.</p> + +<p>Among the statues of the transept buttresses that at the corner of the +south-western tower, bestriding a lion, is thought by some to represent +<b>Pepin-the-Short</b>, and another near him, <b>Charlemagne</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i056.jpg" width="400" height="552" alt="THE LATERAL FAÇADE AND SOUTHERN TRANSEPT IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LATERAL FAÇADE AND SOUTHERN TRANSEPT IN 1919</span> +</div> + +<p>The façade of the transept has no doorway. Above the lower storey, the +architectural arrangement is the same as that of the northern transept. +At the base of the rose-window, on each side, are two very fine statues.</p> + +<p><i>On the left</i>, <b>The Christian Religion</b>, symbolised by a crowned woman +with chalice and standard. This statue was destroyed by a German shell +in 1918, after being damaged in April 1917.</p> + +<p><i>On the right</i>, <b>The Synagogue</b>, with eyes bandaged and a crown on one +side, was not seriously damaged.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 268px;"> +<img src="images/i057a.jpg" width="268" height="400" alt="GABLE OF THE SOUTHERN TRANSEPT +IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GABLE OF THE SOUTHERN TRANSEPT +IN 1914</span> +</div> + +<p>In consequence of the fire of +1481, the gable of South Transept +was rebuilt at the beginning +of the 16th century by three +master-masons, one of whom, +Guichart Antoine, co-operated +later with the building of <b>Nôtre +Dame de l'Epine</b>. (<i>See the Michelin +Guide: The Revigny Pass.</i>) It +was restored about 1888 in the +original style. The subject sculptured +on the pediment represents +the <b>Assumption of the Virgin</b>.</p> + +<p>The <b>Sagittarius</b> which surmounted +the gable was destroyed +in 1914. It was a modern faithful +copy of the old lead-covered wooden +Sagittarius, which was carved, +gilded and painted about 1503 by +the Rheims sculptor, Jean Bourcamus. +According to tradition, +this Sagittarius, which appeared to +be shooting its arrow at the bronze +stag of the archi-episcopal palace, +symbolised the rivalry between the +Archbishop and the Chapter of the +Cathedral.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i057b.jpg" width="700" height="568" alt="THE SOUTHERN LATERAL FAÇADE IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SOUTHERN LATERAL FAÇADE IN 1914</span> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i058.jpg" width="400" height="588" alt="REVERSE SIDE OF THE CENTRAL DOOR IN 1914 +See complete view on p. 52." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />REVERSE SIDE OF THE CENTRAL DOOR IN 1914<br /> +<i>See complete view on p. <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</i></span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> +<h3>THE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL</h3> + +<h4>The Inner Western Façade</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See description of the Exterior on pp. <a href="#Page_34">34</a> to <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</i>)</h6> + + +<p>This is a masterpiece. Its sculptural decoration is unique, and as rich +as that of the outer façade.</p> + +<p>In the tympanum of the central door a sixteen-leaved rose-window, the +stained-glass of which was made shortly before the Revolution, is faced with +three small trefoil rose-windows.</p> + +<p>At the top of the dividing pillar St. Nicaise, headless, is between two +angels and two armed men personifying the barbarians who killed him.</p> + +<p>The entire door, as far as the triforium, is framed by seven rows of superimposed +niches separated by panels of sculptured foliage. The basements are +covered with figured drapery, as on the outside. In each niche, under a +trefoil arcade, is a statue. The subjects represented are, <i>from bottom to top</i>: +<i>on the right</i>: <b>The Life of John the Baptist</b>; <i>on the left</i>: <b>The Fulfilment of +the Prophecy</b> and <b>The Childhood of Christ</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +<img src="images/i059.jpg" width="700" height="518" alt="STATUES ON REVERSE SIDE OF DOORS AFTER FIRE, SEPT., 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">STATUES ON REVERSE SIDE OF DOORS AFTER FIRE, SEPT., 1914</span> +</div> + +<p>The first row on the right is known as "<b>The Knight's Communion</b>"; +a priest offers the Host to a knight wearing 13th century armour, and turns +his back on another knight clothed in a leathern Carolingian tunic with iron +scales, and armed with a small round buckler.</p> + +<p>Above the door, a gallery with nine openings lights the triforium.</p> + +<p>On the highest storey, the great rose-window occupies the whole breadth +of the nave. It is the masterpiece of Bernard de Soissons (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_40">40</a></i>).</p> + +<p>In the form of a gigantic flower with twelve petals, each of the latter +is sub-divided by quatrefoils and trefoil archings. Its harmonious gracefulness +and seeming lightness, in spite of the great thickness of its border +(about 7 ft.), and mullions (about 2 ft. 6 in.), are very striking.</p> + +<p>The stained-glass, which, with the stonework, formed a harmonious whole, +was restored in modern times. The subject represented was: <b>The Virgin +surrounded by angels, kings and patriarchs</b>.</p> + +<p>The fire of 1914 destroyed the stained-glass.</p> + +<p>The side-doors have only a quatrefoil rose-window (<i>see pp. <a href="#Page_25">25</a> and <a href="#Page_34">34</a></i>), +and their framework of niches consists only of four rows of two niches each. +However, two lines of niches, in which are statues in demi-relief, form the +contour of the arches which frame their top.</p> + +<p>The subjects of the sculptures are allied, in the case of each door, to those +of the outer decoration, <i>i.e.</i> "<b>The Life of St. Stephen</b>."</p> + +<p>The wooden doors and their tambours were destroyed by the fire of +September 19, 1914, which also disfigured or destroyed the statues framing +them (<i>see photos above</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +<img src="images/i060a.jpg" width="700" height="552" alt="INTERIOR OF THE NAVE IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE NAVE IN 1919</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Great Nave</h4> + +<p>The fire of September 19, 1914, destroyed the framework of the Nave +and its 15th century lead roof. In the following years a number of shells +pierced the vaulting, without, however, damaging its vital parts. It will +be possible to restore it.</p> + +<p>It seems to be clearly established that although the first four bays were +built later than the others, the nave as a whole, like that of the Cathedral +of Amiens, was completely finished before 1300 <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> Vaulted throughout +on diagonal ribs, the nave, which is perfectly regular, has three stories: +the lowest, formed of great arches, rests on massive pillars; the triforium, +formed of two, four, five, or six arcades, extends round the entire building; +the high twin-bay windows are surmounted with a six-leaved rose-window.</p> + +<p>The pillars, which have been likened to a row of antique columns, are +composed of a great cylindrical shaft, reinforced by four smaller engaged +columns, standing on an octagonal base. The pillars which follow the first +bay of the nave and carry one of the +corners of the towers, as also the four +pillars of the transept square, are more +massive.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;"> +<img src="images/i060b.jpg" width="250" height="217" alt="CAPITAL IN THE NAVE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAPITAL IN THE NAVE</span> +</div> + +<p>The capitals of the pillars and of the +columns (<i>photo opposite</i>) are most beautifully +decorated. The dominating subject +of their decoration is natural foliage (vine, +oak, thistle, ivy, ranunculus, fig-tree). +Occasionally, human or animal figures or +monsters, and scenes from nature, <i>i.e.</i> the +dainty <b>Vintage scene</b> on the capital of +the sixth pillar on the right of the nave,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +are interspersed. The ornamentation +of the capitals of six pillars +of the first bays is more elaborate +and more recent in style. These +capitals are not, like those of the +other pillars, divided on the four +flanking columns into two equal +courses by an astragal, neither do +they include, like some of the +others, crockets, acanthus leaves +and other conventional ornaments +of an older and less realistic style.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i061a.jpg" width="350" height="543" alt="ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1914 +In the foreground on the right: Corner of the +Southern Transept." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1914<br /> +<i>In the foreground on the right: Corner of the +Southern Transept.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The 13th and 14th century +stained-glass of the high windows +represents, on two superimposed +lines, figures of kings of France +and archbishops of Rheims. Some +of the glass was broken, but the +finest was saved.</p> + +<p>In the third and fourth bays +there was formerly a square +<b>Labyrinth</b>, flanked at the corners +by polygonal compartments. In +the interior, a line of white tiles +bordered with black stones ran +from one side, and after complicated +windings reached a central +compartment. At the corners of +the compartments were figures of +the four first architects of the +Cathedral: Jean d'Orbais, Jean +le Loup, Gaucher of Rheims and +Bernard of Soissons. The central +figure is probably that of Archbishop +Aubri de Humbert, who +laid the first stone of the edifice. +This Labyrinth, the drawings of +which revealed the names of the +builders of the Cathedral, was +destroyed in 1778 by the Chapter, +to prevent the children playing +there.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i061b.jpg" width="350" height="559" alt="ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1919 +In the foreground, on the right: Corner of the +Southern Transept." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1919<br /> +<i>In the foreground, on the right: Corner of the +Southern Transept.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Between the Labyrinth and +the Choir are about twenty 14th +century tombstones.</p> + +<p>The <b>great pulpit</b> set up +against the fifth left-hand pillar +was made, in the time of Louis +XV., by a Rheims artist (Blondel). +It comes from the old church of +St. Pierre-le-Vieil.</p> + +<p>In the sixth bay, just before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +the entrance to the choir, the spot where St. Nicaise was beheaded, on the +threshold of his church, was formerly indicated by a small circular chapel +known as <i>La Rouelle de St. Nicaise</i>. The tiny building was replaced by a +memorial inscription on the flagstone, supposed to have been stained with +the blood of the martyr.</p> + + +<h4>The Aisles of the Naves</h4> + +<p>The windows of the Aisles are similar to the lofty windows of the nave. +The walls were formerly hung with valuable tapestries, which were taken +down and evacuated by the <i>Historical Monuments Department</i> at the outbreak +of the War. The two oldest, dating back to about 1440, and known +as the tapestries of the <i>fort roi Clovis</i>, were presented by Cardinal Charles +de Lorraine, and depict the history of Clovis. Those of the Renaissance, +given in 1530 by Archbishop Robert de Lenoncourt, who caused himself +to be portrayed kneeling in the picture of the Birth of Christ, depict +the <i>Life of the Virgin</i>. The most modern, presented in 1640 by Archbishop +Henri de Lorraine and worked by the Fleming, Daniel Pepersack, +represent Jesus at the <i>Marriage at Cana in Galilee</i> and <i>Jesus among the +Doctors</i>.</p> + +<p>At the foot of the walls, three stone steps serve as seats.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i062.jpg" width="700" height="572" alt="TAPESTRIES IN THE SOUTHERN SIDE AISLE, BEFORE THE WAR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">TAPESTRIES IN THE SOUTHERN SIDE AISLE, BEFORE THE WAR</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Interior of the Northern Transept</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> +<h6>(<i>See plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, and the Exterior, p. <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>The inner façade is partially +hidden by the great organ, built +about 1487 and transformed several +times since then. Of the original +organ the loft only remains, the +Gothic balustrading of which is +pierced with Flamboyant arcading.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i063.jpg" width="350" height="493" alt="THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT (see p. 33)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The façade originally consisted +of three lofty bays with lancet-shaped +windows surmounted by a +gallery lighted by three rose-windows +of six lobes each and one +of twelve lobes. The subsequent +addition of a doorway about the +<i>middle</i> of the 13th century caused +the partial suppression of the bays, +of which the transformed summits +alone remain.</p> + + +<p>Almost all the high windows +of the transept contained 13th +century <i>grisaille</i> glass, which was +damaged or broken by the bombardments, +as was also the 13th +century stained-glass of the great +rose-window (repaired in 1869), +which represented <i>The Story of the +Creation</i> and <i>The Fall of Adam</i>.</p> + +<p>The reverse side of the Central Door is bare, except the dividing +pillar, the statue of which is hidden by the 18th century wooden +tambour.</p> + +<p>The small western side-door, which formerly communicated with the +cloister of the Chapter, is entirely covered with 18th century woodwork. +The adjoining bay, closed in by a beautiful 13th century wrought-iron railing, +is the old chartulary or muniment room of the Chapter. Near the railing, +in the corner of the transept, is a clock with automatons, which come out +when the hours strike. Its woodwork is 14th and 15th century and its works +17th and 18th century.</p> + +<p>To the right of the door of the organ stair, a <b>tombstone</b> to <b>Hugues +Libergier</b> was set up against the wall. He was the architect who, in 1231, +commenced the abbatial church of St. Nicaise. The tombstone has been +in the Cathedral since 1800. The altar in the Lady-Chapel, surmounted +with a statue by François Ladatte (1742), replaced a Gothic altar-screen +destroyed in 1739.</p> + +<p>The picture <i>The Washing of the Disciples' Feet</i> is by Jerome +Muziano.</p> + +<p>On the western walls of the transept is a fine tapestry, the pendant +of which is in the south transept. These two great tapestries, +made at the Gobelins, after cartoons by Raphael, represent the life +of St. Paul. They were removed in 1914, at the same time as those in +the aisles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> +<img src="images/i064.jpg" width="450" height="669" alt="THE VAULTING OF THE CHOIR FELL IN ON THE HIGH ALTAR +The photo on p. 31 shows the collapse, seen from above." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE VAULTING OF THE CHOIR FELL IN ON THE HIGH ALTAR<br /> +<i>The photo on p. <a href="#Page_31">31</a> shows the collapse, seen from above.</i></span> +</div> + +<h4>The Choir</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See the Chevet, p. <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>The ambulatory with its radiating chapels is of incomparable beauty. +Excepting the larger central chapel, known as the <i>Chapel of the Holy +Sacrament</i>, which is nine-sided, each chapel has seven sides rising from a +circular floor.</p> + +<p>In each chapel, three windows similar to those of the nave, light the +three hindmost walls. Blind windows imitate the true ones on the side walls.</p> + +<p>At the base of the windows a narrow gallery, passing through the pillars, +continues all along the side-aisles of the transept and nave—a peculiarity in +Champagne architecture.</p> + +<p>The 13th century stained-glass of the high windows was destroyed by +the bombardment of September 19, 1914.</p> + +<p>In April, 1917, part of the vaulting fell in on the High Altar (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p>The costly marble High Altar was erected in 1747 by Canon Godinot, +who spent considerable sums in making alterations to the Cathedral, not all +of which were happy. Its six chandeliers date from the consecration of +Charles X.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span></p> + +<p>The High Altar of the rear choir dates from 1764 and came from the +Church of St. Nicaise. On either side of this altar are two 14th century +tumulary stones. Behind is the tomb of Cardinal de Lorraine.</p> + +<p>The small pulpit of the rear choir, the medallions of which depict the +life of St. Theresa, dates from 1678. It is a gift of the widow of M. Pommery +(<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p>Twenty-two archbishops of Rheims were buried under the choir pavement. +Their tombstones were removed in 1747. The present flag-stones came +from the old church of St. Nicaise.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i065.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="THE SMALL +PULPIT IN +THE REAR +CHOIR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SMALL +PULPIT IN +THE REAR +CHOIR</span> +</div> + +<p>The archbishop's throne, by Viollet-le-Duc, was destroyed by the fire of +1914, together with the 18th century stalls.</p> + +<p>The railings (1826-1832) replaced, not very happily, an ancient stone +rood-loft destroyed in 1761.</p> + + +<h4>The Interior of the Southern Transept</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, and the Exterior, p. <a href="#Page_47">47</a></i>)</h6> + +<p>A gap was made in the vaulting by the bombardment of April 19, 1917.</p> + +<p>The arrangement of the inner façade is similar to that of the northern +transept, except that the three high bays with lancet windows, which are +partially hidden in the northern transept, are here entirely visible.</p> + +<p>The stained-glass of the rose-window, destroyed by a hurricane in 1580, +was replaced in 1581 by the Rheims artist Nicolas Dérodé. It represents +the Eternal Father surrounded by the twelve apostles.</p> + +<p>In the Rosary Chapel is a Renaissance altar-screen (1541), attributed to +the Rheims sculptor Pierre Jacques. The general scheme represents <i>The +dead body of Christ on the knees of the Virgin</i>, and above, <i>Christ coming forth +from the sepulchre</i>. It was a gift of Canon Paul Grandraoul, who is shown +on his knees before Mary Magdalene.</p> + +<p>The Roman mosaic work in the centre of the chapel was discovered in +the courtyard of the archbishop's palace in 1849. Among the most remarkable +scenes are: <i>Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene</i>, attributed to Titian; +<i>Christ with the angels</i>, by Thaddeo Zuccaro; <i>The Nativity</i>, attributed to +Tintoret; <i>Manna in the Desert</i>, attributed to Nicolas Poussin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +<img src="images/i066.jpg" width="500" height="633" alt="ST. REMI'S CHALICE. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. REMI'S CHALICE. (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Cathedral Treasure</h4> + +<p>This is kept in a sacristy built by Viollet-le-Duc, which is reached through +a plain door in the southern façade of the transept.</p> + +<p>The treasure, which is very rich in precious reliquaries, chalices, and +other pieces of goldsmith's work, was saved from the fire of September 19, +1914, by the Curé of the Cathedral and one of his abbés. After being +temporarily placed in the house of the Cardinal, it was evacuated in 1915, +at the order of the Historical Monuments Department.</p> + +<p>Among the best known of these art treasures are the Chalice of St. Remi +and St. Ursula's Skiff.</p> + +<p>The <b>Chalice of St. Remi</b>, with its gold filagree work, six rows of chasing, +and precious stones set in a <i>collier</i>, is a remarkable work of art. It was in +this chalice that, by special privilege, the kings of France communicated in +wine at the conclusion of their consecration. Tradition has it that the gold<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +of which it is made was that of the Soissons Vase, whereas in reality it is +12th century. Confiscated in 1793 and deposited in the <i>Bibliothèque Nationale</i>, +it was restored to the Cathedral by Napoleon III.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i067.jpg" width="400" height="606" alt="ST. URSULA'S SKIFF. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. URSULA'S SKIFF. (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><b>St. Ursula's Skiff</b> is a reliquary given by Henri III. It represents a +ship carved out of cornelian, floating on a sea of enamel. The ship, whose +mast bears the royal crown, is adorned with the escutcheons of France and +Poland, and contains eleven small figures. That of St. Ursula is said to be +the portrait of the Queen of France.</p> + +<p>Amongst the other remarkable works of art in the Treasure are the +following: the <i>reliquaries</i> of Archbishop Samson, St. Sixtus (12th century), +St. Peter and St. Paul (14th century), and the Holy Sepulchre (16th century); +a <i>monstrance</i> of gilt copper (13th century); a <i>liturgical comb</i> of ivory, said to +have belonged to St. Bernard (12th century); a rock-crystal <i>cross</i>, which +formerly belonged to Cardinal de Lorraine; <i>orfrays</i> embroidered with silver +thread (13th century); the <i>credence</i> and <i>oil vessels</i> of Abbot de la Salle; a +<i>fragment</i> of a carved wood crozier (incorrectly said to be the crozier of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +St. Gibrien), two other fragments of which are in the Town Museum (12th +century); the <i>vases</i>, <i>utensils</i>, and <i>sacred ornaments</i> which were used at the +consecration of Charles X.; the <i>reliquary</i> of the Sacred Ampulla, designed +by Lafitte for the consecration of Charles X. The original Sacred Ampulla +was broken in 1793. The present one, which has only served for the consecration +of Charles X., is a replica said to have been made with the few +drops of balsam of the Clovis Ampulla, which pious hands saved from the +broken fragments of the sacred vessel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i068a.jpg" width="700" height="478" alt="CASKET OF THE SACRED AMPULLA. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CASKET OF THE SACRED AMPULLA. (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i068b.jpg" width="700" height="469" alt="FRAGMENTS SAVED FROM THE RUINS. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">FRAGMENTS SAVED FROM THE RUINS. (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i069.png" width="700" height="599" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h3>FIRST ITINERARY FOR VISITING RHEIMS</h3> + +<h4>Starting-point: Place du Parvis Nôtre-Dame</h4> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td align="left">The Archbishop's Palace (p. <a href="#Page_63">63</a>).</td><td align="right">9.</td><td align="left">The Musicians' House (p. <a href="#Page_80">80</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td align="left">The Theatre (p. <a href="#Page_68">68</a>)</td><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left">The House of De Muire (p. <a href="#Page_83">83</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td align="left">The House of Levesque de Pouilly (p. <a href="#Page_68">68</a>). </td><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left">The House of Le Vergeur (p. <a href="#Page_85">85</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td align="left">The Stores: Galeries Rémoises (p. <a href="#Page_73">73</a>).</td><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left">A 16th Century House (p. <a href="#Page_86">86</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left">The Maison Fossier (p. <a href="#Page_75">75</a>).</td><td align="right">13.</td><td align="left">The General Post Office and Chamber of Commerce (p. <a href="#Page_87">87</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left">The House of J. B. de la Salle (p. <a href="#Page_75">75</a>).</td><td align="right">14.</td><td align="left">The Cloister of the Franciscan Friars (p. <a href="#Page_90">90</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td align="left">The House of the Enfant d'Or (p. <a href="#Page_75">75</a>).</td><td align="right">15.</td><td align="left">The House of Thiret de Prain (p. <a href="#Page_89">89</a>).</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td align="left">The Statue of Louis XV. (p. <a href="#Page_79">79</a>).</td><td align="right">16.</td><td align="left">The House of de la Pourcelette (p. <a href="#Page_92">92</a>).</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i070a.jpg" width="400" height="597" alt="REMOVING THE STATUE OF JOAN-OF-ARC +IN MAY, 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">REMOVING THE STATUE OF JOAN-OF-ARC +IN MAY, 1918</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Place du Parvis</h4> + +<p>The Place du Parvis (<i>photo below</i>) is in front of the main façade of the +Cathedral. The shells made enormous craters there.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the square stands an <b>equestrian statue of Joan-of-Arc</b>, +by Paul Dubois, of which there is a replica in the Place St. Augustin in Paris. +It was removed in May, 1918, by the Historical Monuments Department +(<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i070b.jpg" width="700" height="487" alt="THE PLACE DU PARVIS +On the right: The Law Courts. In the centre: The Theatre. On the left: The Grand Hôtel. +In centre of Square: Statue of Joan-of-Arc." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PLACE DU PARVIS<br /> +<i>On the right: The Law Courts. In the centre: The Theatre. On the left: The Grand Hôtel. +In centre of Square: Statue of Joan-of-Arc.</i></span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + +<p>Looking towards the Cathedral, the +tourist will see on the right the ruins +of the <i>Hôtel du Lion d'Or</i> and of the +<i>Hôtel de la Maison Rouge</i>.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i071.jpg" width="300" height="527" alt="INNER COURTYARD OF THE LION +D'OR HÔTEL. (Cliché A.S.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">INNER COURTYARD OF THE LION +D'OR HÔTEL. (<i>Cliché A.S.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The latter was completely destroyed. +Above the door was the inscription: +"In the year 1429, at the consecration of +Charles VII., in this hostelry—then called +the 'Striped Ass'—the father and +mother of Jeanne d'Arcq were lodged at +the expense of the Municipality." In +reality only the father of Joan-of-Arc +lodged there.</p> + +<p>It was at the Hôtel du Lion d'Or +(<i>photo opposite</i>) and at the Grand Hôtel +(No. 4 in the Rue Libergier, which opens +out in front of the statue of Joan-of-Arc) +that the Field-Marshal French stayed +in August, 1914, and later General von +Zuchow, commanding the Saxon troops +which entered Rheims on September 4, +1914.</p> + +<p>On the right of the Cathedral are +the ruins of the Archbishop's Palace +(<i>see plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a></i>). A general view of them +is seen in the photograph on p. <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</p> + + +<h4>The Archbishop's Palace</h4> + +<p>Of the three buildings which surrounded every Cathedral in the Middle +Ages—the bishop's palace, the cloister of the canons, and the house set apart +for the sick and poor (Hôtel-Dieu)—only the archbishop's palace existed at +Rheims in 1914. It extended all along the south lateral façade of the +Cathedral, on the site of the ancient abode of St. Nicaise, which had replaced +a Roman palace. Of the ancient building erected by the successors of +St. Nicaise down to the 13th century, there remained only the graceful two-storied +chapel, doubtless contemporary with the chevet of the Cathedral. +The round entrance tower, known as Eon's tower (from the name of the +heretic who was imprisoned there in the 12th century), and the great bronze +stag placed in the middle of the courtyard by Archbishop Samson in the +11th century, still existed in the 17th century, but about that time the one +was demolished and the other melted down. This stag, into which on feast-days +wine was poured, which flowed out again by the mouth, was a beautiful +specimen of the art of the old metal-founders of Rheims.</p> + +<p>The archbishop's palace and most of its rich collections were burnt in the +fire of September 19, 1914. Of the palace proper there remains only the +great chimney-piece of the Salle du Tau, on which the Latin motto, "Good +faith preserved makes rich," is inscribed (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_64">64</a></i>), the very opposite of the +German "scrap of paper" theory.</p> + +<p><b>The Archevêché</b>: The buildings which lined the courtyard were of +different periods. The wing abutting on the entrance-gate was 19th century, +while the correct but heavy and dull southern façade was rebuilt in the +17th century by Archbishop Maurice Le Tellier, from the plans of Robert +de Cotte.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i072a.jpg" width="400" height="328" alt="THE SALLE DU TAU, BEFORE THE WAR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SALLE DU TAU, BEFORE THE WAR</span> +</div> + +<h4>The Salle du Tau (or Kings' Hall)</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>At the bottom of the courtyard there used to be a large late 15th and +early 16th century hall, access to which was gained by a horse-shoe stair with +late 17th century wrought-iron hand-rail.</p> + +<p>A small porch-like structure at the top of the stair was an unfortunate +addition of 1825.</p> + +<p>The hall was known as the <b>Salle du Tau</b>, in memory of the ancient palace +which was shaped like the Greek letter <i>Tau</i>, or the Kings' Hall, on account +of the portraits of the Kings consecrated at Rheims, received in 1825.</p> + +<p>Built by the Cardinal Archbishop Guillaume Briçonnet between 1497 and +1507, it comprised two stories.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i072b.jpg" width="400" height="352" alt="THE SALLE DU TAU IN 1918 +Behind the ruined Hall are seen the Southern Transept +and Chevet of the Cathedral." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SALLE DU TAU IN 1918<br /> +<i>Behind the ruined Hall are seen the Southern Transept +and Chevet of the Cathedral.</i></span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i073a.jpg" width="350" height="528" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE SALLE DU TAU +(OR KINGS' HALL). (see plan, p. 33)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE SALLE DU TAU +(OR KINGS' HALL). (<i>see plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The upper hall, in which the +royal banquet was served at the +consecrations, became the Stock +Exchange at the beginning of the +19th century. It was disfigured +by poor paintings and false Gothic +ornamentation at the time of the +consecration of Charles X.</p> + +<p>The walls were hung with four +admirable tapestries by Pepersack +and several others given by Robert +de Lenoncourt.</p> + +<p>The vast chimney-piece with +the Briçonnet and Church of +Rheims Arms is all that the fire +of 1914 spared of the ancient +decoration. It is visible in the +photographs on page <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, at the +bottom of the hall.</p> + + +<p>The lower hall, with its Gothic +arching, was as large as the upper +one. The capitals of the prismatic +pillars and the key-stones of the +arches were adorned with escutcheons, +fleur-de-lys, flowers and +crockets.</p> + + +<h4>The Archi-episcopal Chapel</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i073b.jpg" width="350" height="544" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE ARCHI-EPISCOPAL +CHAPEL. (see plan, p. 33)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE ARCHI-EPISCOPAL +CHAPEL. (<i>see plan, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>This was without doubt the work +of Jean d'Orbais, the first architect +of the Cathedral. It resembled the +latter in many respects.</p> + +<p>With its seven-sided apse, four-bay +nave and lancet-shaped windows +without rubber-work, it was remarkably +slender and graceful.</p> + +<p>Its finest ornament was the 13th +century bas-relief, <i>The Adoration of +the Magi</i>, in the tympanum of the +entrance door.</p> + +<p>The white marble inner portico +of the door dated from the Restoration. +The other, formed of in-laid +wood panels, was adorned with five +16th or early 17th century painted +figures.</p> + +<p>The lower chapel, partly subterranean, +was fitted up as a lapidary +museum in 1865 and 1896.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i074.jpg" width="400" height="411" alt="THE ROYAL +APARTMENTS +IN THE +ARCHBISHOP'S +PALACE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROYAL +APARTMENTS +IN THE +ARCHBISHOP'S +PALACE</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Royal Apartments</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> +<p>From the Kings' Hall, access was obtained to five royal saloons +with windows looking on the gardens and adorned with portraits of +archbishops.</p> + +<p>It was in the archbishop's palace that the Kings stayed at the time of +their consecration or when passing through Rheims. Henry IV. lived there +during his two sojourns at Rheims. He washed the feet of the poor on Holy +Thursday in the great hall and listened to the sermon of Father Cotton. +Louis XIII. and Richelieu stayed there in 1641, Louis XIV. in 1680, Peter the +Great in 1717, Louis XV. in 1722 and 1744, the Queen in 1765, Louis XVI. +and Marie Antoinette in 1774, and Charles X. in 1825. From year VI. (Revolution +Calendar) to 1824 it was occupied by the tribunals. The archbishops +formerly held many Councils and Synods there, but lived there only rarely. +In the Middle Ages they preferred living in their fortified castle of Porte Mars +(<i>see p.</i> <a href="#Page_6">6</a>). In the 17th and 18th centuries they lived mostly outside +Rheims.</p> + +<p><i>After visiting the ruins of the Archbishop's Palace return to the Place du +Parvis. Take the Rue Libergier, opposite the Cathedral, turning into the first +street on the right (Rue Chanzy). The Museum is soon reached (see Itinerary, +p. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>).</i></p> + + +<p><b>The Museum</b>, formerly <b>The Grand Séminaire</b></p> + +<p>This fine 18th century building was erected by Nicolas Bonhomme in +1743-1752. The carved entrance-door and terraced central pavilion, bordered +with a fine balustrade (damaged by shell splinters), are the remains of the +ancient Abbey of St. Denis, the church of which was destroyed at the time +of the Revolution. The right wing was rebuilt in the 19th century, by order +of Cardinal Thomas Gousset. The ground-floor of the left wing is old, but +the other floors are modern. These buildings were comparatively little +damaged by the bombardments.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +<img src="images/i075a.jpg" width="400" height="423" alt="THE ENTRANCE +TO THE COURTYARD +OF THE +OLD GRAND +SÉMINAIRE +(18th century)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ENTRANCE +TO THE COURTYARD +OF THE +OLD GRAND +SÉMINAIRE +(18th century)</span> +</div> + +<p>Successively occupied since 1790 by the District Council, a free secondary +school, and by the Russians in 1814-1815, the buildings were handed over to +the Grand Séminaire in 1822. Since the separation of the Church and State +in 1905, they have been fitted up as a Museum.</p> + +<p>The Museum was struck at the beginning of the bombardment on September +4, 1914, several pictures in the Modern Gallery being destroyed. +Later, it was again hit by shells, but the greater part of the collections had +already been removed to a place of safety.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i075b.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="THE OLD GRAND SÉMINAIRE (MUSEUM)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE OLD GRAND SÉMINAIRE (MUSEUM)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i076a.jpg" width="400" height="380" alt="THE BED IN +WHICH +NAPOLEON +SLEPT IN 1814 +(In ruined +house at No. 18 +Rue de Vesle.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE BED IN +WHICH +NAPOLEON +SLEPT IN 1814<br /> +(<i>In ruined +house at No. 18 +Rue de Vesle.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Continue along the Rue Chanzy, which skirts the</i> <b>Theatre</b> (1873), of which +only the walls remain. <i>Take the Rue de Vesle (first street on the left. See +Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>).</i></p> + +<p>Among the ruins of this street, in the yard of No. 18 on the left, is a building +of which only the ground-floor and front with large windows and spacious +dormers remain.</p> + +<p>It was there that Napoleon I. slept after his return to Rheims. His room +had been preserved exactly as it was in 1814 (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_8">8</a></i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i076b.jpg" width="400" height="277" alt="THE PARIS GATE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PARIS GATE</span> +</div> + +<p>At No. 27 are vestiges of the old <b>Hôtel Levesque de Pouilly</b>. Inside +the court there was a 16th century house, the residence of a family which +furnished Rheims with some remarkable administrators, chief among whom +was <i>Levesque de Pouilly</i>, "lieutenant of the inhabitants." Among the celebrated +guests received by him were Voltaire and Madame du Châtelet (1749).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +In a letter to him, Lord Bolingbroke wrote: "<i>I know but three men who are +worthy of governing the nation: You, Pope and myself.</i>"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i077a.jpg" width="400" height="325" alt="THE VAULTING AND BELFRY OF THE CHURCH OF +ST. JACQUES. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE VAULTING AND BELFRY OF THE CHURCH OF +ST. JACQUES (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>On the right, between Nos. 44 and 46, is the Rue St. Jacques.</i></p> + +<p><i>Follow the Rue de Vesle to the end, where the</i> <b>Paris Gate</b> <i>stands, about 1 km. +from the entrance to the Rue St. Jacques.</i></p> + +<p>This Gate replaced the Vesle Gate which formerly abutted on the river. +In consequence of the growth of the city it was built in the <i>faubourg</i> about +1845. Its beautiful wrought-iron work (<i>photo opposite</i>), by the local master-locksmiths +Lecoq and Revel, was erected by the City in 1774, at the time of +the consecration of Louis XVI.</p> + +<p><i>From the Paris Gate, return by the Rue de Vesle to the Rue St. Jacques, on the +right of which stands the</i> Church of St. Jacques.</p> + +<p>The <b>Church of St. Jacques</b>, whose fine tower contributed to the charm +of the general appearance of the city, was destroyed by the bombardments +of 1918. Begun in the 12th century, it was finished in the 16th. Before the +war, it was the only parish church in Rheims which had been preserved intact.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i077b.jpg" width="400" height="335" alt="THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF +ST. JACQUES. (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF +ST. JACQUES (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i078a.jpg" width="500" height="391" alt="THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON, BEFORE THE WAR +On the right: Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON, BEFORE THE WAR<br /> +<i>On the right: Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>The Rue St. Jacques leads to the long</i> Place Drouet d'Erlon, which was much +damaged by the bombardments of 1918 (<i>photo opposite</i>).</p> + +<p>Formerly known as <i>Place de la Couture</i>, this square, like the old streets with +picturesque names: <i>Rue des Telliers</i>, <i>Rue du Clou-dans-le-Fer</i>, <i>Rue de la +Belle Image</i>, <i>Rue de la Grosse-Ecritoire</i>, <i>Rue du Cadran St. Pierre</i>, formed part +of the <i>Quartier des Loges</i>, built in the 12th century by Cardinal Guillaume-aux-blanches-mains +for the wood and iron workers. The house-fronts above +the first storey rested mostly on wooden pillars, leaving recesses or covered +galleries on the ground floor.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the square stood a statue of Marshal Drouet d'Erlon, +afterwards removed to the crossing of the Boulevards Gerbert and Victor +Hugo, and replaced by a <b>monumental fountain</b>, the gift of M. Subé.</p> + +<p><i>Follow the Place Drouet d'Erlon to the Boulevard de la République, which +skirts</i> <b>The Promenades</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i078b.jpg" width="500" height="403" alt="THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON, AFTER THE WAR +The Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques no longer exists." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON, AFTER THE WAR<br /> +<i>The Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques no longer exists.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i079a.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="THE SUBÉ FOUNTAIN, IN THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON +Seen from the Rue Buirette (in ruins)." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE SUBÉ FOUNTAIN, IN THE PLACE DROUET D'ERLON<br /> +<i>Seen from the Rue Buirette (in ruins).</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The Promenades, greatly damaged by the war, have sometimes been +wrongly attributed to Le Nôtre. Their designer was a Rheims gardener, +Jean le Roux. Commenced in 1731, they were finished and extended in +1787. They were formerly reached by the Gates of Mars and Vesles, but +preferably by the Promenade Gate specially opened in the ramparts in 1740 +and inaugurated by Louis XV. in 1744, on his return from Flanders. The +Promenades were first called <i>Cours Le Pelletier</i> (the name of the <i>Intendant of +Champagne</i>, who approved the plans), then <i>Cours Royal</i>, after the passage +of Louis XV. They were encroached upon by the railway station, built in +1860.</p> + +<p>In the centre of the Promenades, opposite the station, in the <i>Square Colbert</i>, +laid out by the landscape gardener Varé in 1860, is a statue of Colbert.</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue Thiers, which begins at the Square Colbert and leads to the</i> +<b>Hôtel-de-Ville</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i079b.jpg" width="400" height="327" alt="THE "SQUARE COLBERT" IN THE MIDDLE +OF THE "PROMENADES" +The Entrance to the Station is just opposite this "Square."" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE "SQUARE COLBERT" IN THE MIDDLE +OF THE "PROMENADES"<br /> +<i>The Entrance to the Station is just opposite this "Square."</i></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i080.jpg" width="700" height="521" alt="THE TOWN HALL IN 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TOWN HALL IN 1918</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Hôtel-de-Ville</h4> + +<p>This building, which was destroyed by shell-fire on May 13, 1917, was +similar in many respects to the old Hôtel-de-Ville in Paris, burnt in 1871.</p> + +<p>Commenced in 1627, from plans by the Rheims architect, Jean Bonhomme, +it was completed in stages, at long intervals. Only the central <i>pavilion</i> and +the left-hand portion were 17th century.</p> + +<p>The building was a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the Louis +XIII. period. Seventy-eight columns, Doric on the ground-floor and Corinthian +on the first storey, framed the windows of the façade, whose bases on +the first floor carried trophies in bas-relief and a graceful frieze. The niches +in the central portico were empty, but the pediment on twisted columns +enclosed an equestrian statue of Louis XIII.</p> + +<p>In the interior, in the great vestibule, a staircase with a remarkable wrought-iron +balustrade led to the City Library, which was destroyed by the fire of +1917 (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_73">73</a></i>).</p> + +<p>On the right, the room where the Municipal Council meetings were held, +contained rich panelling alternated with paintings by Lamatte, commemorating +episodes in the history of Rheims. On the left, the mayor's office +contained magnificent Louis XVI. woodwork.</p> + +<p>On the other side of the courtyard, in the centre of which is a statue of +"La Vigne," by St. Marceaux, was the great marriage-hall, containing a Gallo-Roman +mosaic, framed with rosettes and an interlaced border, representing +a gladiatorial fight.</p> + +<p>A number of the pictures and works of art in the Hôtel-de-Ville were saved +by the firemen and soldiers. The mosaic in the marriage-hall was protected +by sand-bags and is intact.</p> + +<p><i>In the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, between the Rue Thiers and the Banque de +France, are two small streets: the Rue Salin and the Rue de Pouilly.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i081a.jpg" width="300" height="330" alt="THE GRAND +STAIRCASE +OF THE +TOWN HALL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GRAND +STAIRCASE +OF THE +TOWN HALL</span> +</div> + +<p>At No. 5 of the Rue Salin, the old 17th century <i>Hôtel Coquebert</i>, which was +destroyed by the shells, used to be the headquarters of the <i>Society of Friends +of Old Rheims</i>. Several of the illustrations in this Guide are taken from the +collections of this Society.</p> + +<p>In the Rue de Pouilly, close to the Hôtel-de-Ville, are the <b>ruins</b> of the +<i>Galeries Rémoises</i> stores. These shops were partly housed in a Gothic building, +of which only a few chimney-stacks remain (<i>see chimney in photo below</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Opposite the Hôtel-de-Ville take the Rue Colbert to the Place des Marchés.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i081b.jpg" width="400" height="323" alt="THE RUE COLBERT, BETWEEN THE TOWN HALL +AND THE MARKET-PLACE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE COLBERT, BETWEEN THE TOWN HALL +AND THE MARKET-PLACE</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i082a.jpg" width="700" height="582" alt="RUINS IN THE MARKET-PLACE +Seen from the Rue de Tambour. The "Maison de l'Enfant d'Or" is among the ruined +houses seen in the middle (see pp. 75 to 77). The "Hôtel de la Salle" and "Maison Fossier" +(p. 76), on the right-hand side of the Square, are not visible in the above photograph." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS IN THE MARKET-PLACE<br /> +<i>Seen from the Rue de Tambour. The "Maison de l'Enfant d'Or" is among the ruined +houses seen in the middle (see pp. <a href="#Page_75">75</a> to <a href="#Page_77">77</a>). The "Hôtel de la Salle" and "Maison Fossier" +(p. <a href="#Page_76">76</a>), on the right-hand side of the Square, are not visible in the above photograph.</i></span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Place des Marchés</h4> + +<p>Built on the site of the ancient <i>forum</i>, the Market Square, before the +war, still contained several remarkable 15th century wooden houses. +Unfortunately, they were destroyed by the terrible bombardment of May +8-15, 1918, together with the Square.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i082b.jpg" width="400" height="303" alt="THE "HÔTEL DE LA SALLE" +On the left: the Carriage Entrance with Caryatids: Adam and Eve." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "HÔTEL DE LA SALLE"<br /> +<i>On the left: the Carriage Entrance with Caryatids: Adam and Eve.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i083.jpg" width="400" height="411" alt="THE COURTYARD +OF THE "HÔTEL +DE LA SALLE" +The graceful +Turret has +partially +collapsed." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE COURTYARD +OF THE "HÔTEL +DE LA SALLE"<br /> +<i>The graceful +Turret has +partially +collapsed.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>After turning to the right, on leaving the Rue Colbert, and quite close to the +Square, at No. 4 in the Rue de l'Arbalète</i>, is the house, dating from the middle +of the 16th century, where <b>J. B. de la Salle</b> was born.</p> + +<p>Although this house suffered from the bombardments of 1918, its front +is practically intact. It is the finest Renaissance front in Rheims, after that +of <b>Le Vergeur's House</b> (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_85">85</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The carriage entrance is flanked with two life-size caryatids, popularly +called <i>Adam and Eve</i>, on account of their nudity. Along the first storey +runs a broad frieze ornamentated with trophies of arms and a shield of +unknown significance. Between two windows of this storey a niche, resting +on a console, is crowned with a canopy. The shops on the ground-floor +somewhat spoilt the general look of the building. The interior of the house +was less interesting than the front.</p> + +<p>In the courtyard is a strikingly graceful three-storey turret (<i>photo above</i>), +one side of which has collapsed.</p> + +<p>Among the wooden houses destroyed by the bombardments of 1918 in +the Place des Marchés, the following must be mentioned: the <b>Maison Fossier</b> +(<i>see p. <a href="#Page_76">76</a></i>), which stood in the Square at the right-hand corner of the Rue de +l'Arbalète, and especially the <b>Maison de l'Enfant d'Or</b> (sometimes wrongly +called the House of Jacques Callou), which stood near the Rue des Elus. +The latter house took its name from an old sign representing the gilt figure +of a sleeping child. Hence, punningly, the name <i>Golden</i> or <i>Sleeping</i> +Child.</p> + +<p>In spite of alterations, this house (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_77">77</a></i>), with its pent-house roof, +two overhanging storeys, windows crowned with finials, and sculptural +decoration (<i>see carved console, p. <a href="#Page_77">77</a></i>), was a well-preserved specimen of +15th century architecture.</p> + +<p><i>From the Place des Marchés, follow the Rue Colbert to the</i> <b>Place Royale</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +<img src="images/i084a.jpg" width="500" height="310" alt="BEFORE +THE WAR +See text, page 75." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BEFORE +THE WAR<br /> +<i>See text, page <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</i></span> +<br /><br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i084b.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="AFTER +THE WAR +THE "MAISON FOSSIER," BEFORE AND AFTER THE WAR +See Itinerary, p. 61 (No. 5 of Explanatory Notes)." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />AFTER +THE WAR<br /> +THE "MAISON FOSSIER," BEFORE AND AFTER THE WAR<br /> +<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_61">61</a> (No. 5 of Explanatory Notes).</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i084c.jpg" width="500" height="345" alt="SEE TEXT. +p. 75 +RUINS OF THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR" +Second house on the left, after the Rue des Elus. (See p. 77.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SEE TEXT. +p. <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +RUINS OF THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR"<br /> +<i>Second house on the left, after the Rue des Elus. (See p. <a href="#Page_77">77</a>).</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i085a.jpg" width="400" height="408" alt="THIS VERY +CURIOUS 15TH +CENTURY HOUSE +STOOD IN THE +MARKET-PLACE +It was completely +destroyed (see p. 76.) +THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR," +BEFORE THE WAR" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THIS VERY +CURIOUS 15TH +CENTURY HOUSE +STOOD IN THE +MARKET-PLACE<br /> +It was completely +destroyed (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_76">76</a></i>)<br /> +THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR," +BEFORE THE WAR</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i085b.jpg" width="400" height="580" alt="BRACKET OF THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR," +REPRESENTING SAMSON SLAYING THE LION" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />BRACKET OF THE "MAISON DE L'ENFANT D'OR," +REPRESENTING SAMSON SLAYING THE LION</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i086a.jpg" width="700" height="448" alt="THE PLACE +ROYALE IN +1765 +THE INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF "LOUIS LE BIENAIMÉ." +August 20, 1765; engraving by Varin. The original statue (by Pigalle) +is in the middle of the Square." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PLACE +ROYALE IN +1765<br /> +THE INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF "LOUIS LE BIENAIMÉ."<br /> +<i>August 20, 1765; engraving by Varin. The original statue (by Pigalle) +is in the middle of the Square.</i></span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Place Royale</h4> + +<p>The Place Royale, which had previously suffered severely on September +19-22, 1914, was completely destroyed by fire, with the exception of the +modern buildings of the Société Générale Bank, during the bombardment +of April 8-15, 1918.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i086b.jpg" width="500" height="357" alt="THE PLACE ROYALE IN 1918 +The plinth of the statue was protected by masonry-work." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PLACE ROYALE IN 1918<br /> +<i>The plinth of the statue was protected by masonry-work.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Commenced in 1756, from plans by the architect Legendre, it formed an +oblong, of severe and imposing appearance, at the cross-ways of the four +main streets of the City. In order to carry out Legendre's plans, forty-nine +houses had to be acquired and pulled down. The Square remained unfinished, +only three of its sides being built. The Louis XV.-XVI. transition style +houses were of uniform construction, and were remarkable for their arcades +and eaveless roofs, around which latter ran a balustrade. The central +house (formerly the <i>Hôtel des Fermes</i>) had a Doric front with a statue of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +Mercury surrounded by children arranging bales or carrying grapes to the +wine-press. A <b>statue of Louis XV.</b>, in the middle of the Square, was +protected from the bombardments by masonry-work (<i>photos, p. <a href="#Page_78">78</a> and below</i>).</p> + +<p>The monarch is represented in a Roman mantle and laurel wreath. On +either side of the pedestal are two allegorical bronze figures. One, a +woman, holding a helm with one hand and leading a lion with the other, +symbolizes <i>gentleness of Government</i>; the other, a contented man resting +in the midst of abundance, represents <i>the happiness of nations</i>. The wolf +and the lamb sleeping side by side at their feet are symbolical of the +Golden Age.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i087.jpg" width="450" height="570" alt="STATUE OF LOUIS XV., PLACE ROYALE, WITH +PARTIALLY BUILT PROTECTING WALL +OF MASONRY +The two allegorical figures are supposed to be likenesses of +the Sculptor Pigalle and his wife." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />STATUE OF LOUIS XV., PLACE ROYALE, WITH +PARTIALLY BUILT PROTECTING WALL +OF MASONRY<br /> +<i>The two allegorical figures are supposed to be likenesses of +the Sculptor Pigalle and his wife.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The monument, inaugurated in 1765, is the work of Pigalle, but the two +allegorical figures, which are supposed to be portraits of the sculptor and his +wife, alone are original.</p> + +<p>The original statue of Louis XV. was removed at the time of the Revolution +(August 15, 1792), and sent to the foundry. It was first replaced by a +pyramid surmounted by a "Fame," in memory of the defenders of the +<i>Patrie</i>, then by a plaster Goddess of Liberty, and in 1803 by a trophy of +arms and flags. The present statue, erected under Louis XVIII. (1818), +is due to the sculptor Cartellier, and is an exact replica of the original +one.</p> + +<p>It was on the steps of the monument that the Conventionist Ruhl smashed +the Sacred Ampulla under the Revolution.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>From the Place Royale, return to the Market Square, cross over to the Rue de +Tambour (parallel with the Rue Colbert).</i></p> + +<p>The Rue de Tambour owes its name either to the statue of a tambourine-player +on one of its houses, or to the presence of the town-drummer who +lived in it. It was first damaged, then burnt, in April, 1918.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i088.jpg" width="700" height="518" alt="THE STATUES OF THE MUSICIANS' HOUSE +The house was destroyed by bombardment, but the statues were saved." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE STATUES OF THE MUSICIANS' HOUSE<br /> +<i>The house was destroyed by bombardment, but the statues were saved.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Previous to 1918, old houses in this street were still numerous. The +most celebrated was the now completely destroyed <b>Musicians' House</b> +(<i>photo above</i>), the true origin of which is unknown.</p> + +<p>It has variously been supposed to have been the house of a rich burgess, +of the Tom Fiddlers' Brotherhood, and the Mint of the Archbishops of Rheims. +The first storey of the façade had been preserved intact since the 13th century. +In the Gothic niches which separated the mullioned and transomed windows, +five large seated figures on carved consoles (<i>photo above</i>) represented <i>a +tambourine and flute player</i>, <i>a piper</i>, <i>a falconer</i> with crossed legs, <i>a harpist</i> +and <i>an organ-grinder</i> crowned with a garland of flowers. The falcon on the +wrist of the central figure was removed by the organisers of the consecration +of Charles X., as it was feared that the royal banners might get caught +on it.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, these statues, which are remarkable for their natural +expression and vigour were removed to a place of safety before the house was +destroyed.</p> + +<p>Thanks to a public subscription, the town was able to acquire them shortly +before the war, thus preventing them from being sold abroad.</p> + +<p>The cellars of this house are curious, but there exists no proof that they +date back, as has been said, to the Roman period.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i089a.jpg" width="400" height="421" alt="14TH CENTURY +DOORWAY, +22 RUE DE +TAMBOUR" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />14TH CENTURY +DOORWAY, +22 RUE DE +TAMBOUR</span> +</div> + +<p>The adjoining house (No. 22) is 14th century, and probably dates back +to about the end of the reign of Philippe-le-Bel. Its front has been greatly +spoilt, but still contains a fine door surmounted by an elliptical arch (<i>photo +above</i>).</p> + +<p>At No. 13 of this street, two 13th century carved heads, one of a man +and the other of a woman wearing one of the mortar-shaped hats in fashion +until the end of the reign of St. Louis, have been built into the façade.</p> + +<p><i>At the end of the Rue de Tambour, take the Rue de Mars, on the right of the +Hôtel-de-Ville, at the end of which, on the left, stands the Triumphal Arch of +the</i> <b>Mars Gate</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i089b.jpg" width="500" height="402" alt="THE RUE DE MARS. THE TOWN HALL IS ON THE LEFT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE MARS. THE TOWN HALL IS ON THE LEFT</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i090a.jpg" width="500" height="304" alt="MARS +GATE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MARS +GATE</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Mars Gate</h4> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i090b.jpg" width="500" height="426" alt="18TH CENTURY ENGRAVING BY COLLIN OF THE VAULTING OF +THE ROMULUS AND REMUS ARCADE OF THE MARS GATE +In the centre: Romulus and Remus suckled by the she-wolf." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />18TH CENTURY ENGRAVING BY COLLIN OF THE VAULTING OF +THE ROMULUS AND REMUS ARCADE OF THE MARS GATE<br /> +<i>In the centre: Romulus and Remus suckled by the she-wolf.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>This monument was long believed to be a Roman <b>gate</b>—hence its name—although +the ornamentation of its four sides proves that it cannot originally +have been connected with the ramparts. It was only in the Middle +Ages that it was included in the fortified castle (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_6">6</a></i>) built by the archbishops +a few steps to the rear. About 1334 its arcades were walled up, +while towards 1554 it was buried under a mass of rubbish during the building +of the fortifications. Partly disinterred in 1594, when the archbishops' +castle was pulled down, it was not completely cleared until 1816-1817. +Restored, then classed as an <i>historical monument</i> (thanks to Prosper Mérimée), +it is one of the largest Roman structures remaining in France. Forty-four +feet high, one hundred and eight wide, and sixteen thick, it was really a +triumphal arch built on the Cæsarean Way at the entrance to the town,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +probably in the 4th century. It comprises three arches separated by fluted +Corinthian columns which support the entablature. On the two main +façades between the columns are carved medallions and niches which have +lost their statues. The vaulting of the arches is divided into sunken panels, +the carving of which is mostly in a good state of preservation. Under the +eastern arch <i>Romulus and Remus</i> are seen suckled by the she-wolf. Under +the middle arch, the twelve months of the year, represented by persons +(five of whom have been destroyed), occupied in the labours of the four +seasons, surround Abundance and Fortune. Under the western arch Love +is seen descending from the sky above Leda and the Swan.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i091.jpg" width="500" height="519" alt="HÔTEL NOËL DE MUIRE +Note the curious masonry-work of the first storey, composed +of polygonal stones in relief." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HÔTEL NOËL DE MUIRE<br /> +<i>Note the curious masonry-work of the first storey, composed +of polygonal stones in relief.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>Behind the Mars Gate is the Place de la République, containing</i> a statue +by Bartholdi, damaged by shell-fire. <i>In front of the Gate, take the Rue +Henri IV., leading behind the Hôtel-de-Ville, then turn to the left into the Rue +de Sedan.</i> The house at No. 3 was destroyed by shells, except the <b>Louis XVI. +front</b> with its gracefully carved garlands, which escaped injury.</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue du Grenier-à-Sel, on the right, to the</i> <b>Hôtel Noël de Muire</b>, +<i>on the left, at the corner of the Rue Linguet.</i></p> + +<p>This house consists of the remains of a sort of Henry II. manor with +turrets and dormer-windows. The walls, rounded at the corners like those +of the Templars, are of brick and dressed stone. The plinth separating the +two stories is decorated with carved wreathed foliage. Fret-work and hexagonal +points frame the windows, while a broad cornice on consoles carries +the roof. Formerly the residence of the lords of Muire, this house was +popularly known as the <i>Maison des Petits Pâtés</i>, on account of the polygonal +shape of the stones in relief. Theodore de Bèze, one of the leaders of the +Reformation in France, lived there with his friend, Noël de Muire.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +<img src="images/i092a.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="THE RUE DU MARC" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DU MARC</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Take the Rue du Marc, which continues the Rue du Grenier-à-Sel (photo +above).</i></p> + +<p>The <b>Rue du Marc</b> was the quarter where the old noble families and the +higher <i>bourgeoisie</i> of Rheims lived. It suffered considerably from the +bombardments.</p> + +<p>At No. 3 is a Henry IV. house, the windows of which are framed with +graceful ornamentation (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p>However, the most remarkable house in the street is undoubtedly the +<b>Hôtel Nicolas le Vergeur</b> (No. 1), which, unfortunately, was partly +destroyed by the shells (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_85">85</a></i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i092b.jpg" width="400" height="429" alt="HOUSE DATING +BACK TO THE +REIGN OF +HENRI IV. +(1589-1610) +AT NO. 3 +RUE DU MARC" title="" /> +<span class="caption">HOUSE DATING +BACK TO THE +REIGN OF +HENRI IV. +(1589-1610) +AT NO. 3 +RUE DU MARC</span> +</div> + +<h4>The Hôtel Nicolas Le Vergeur</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<p>The interior building, which has a 17th century carriage entrance, offers +two fine examples of 15th and 16th century architecture. It is the finest +Renaissance structure in Rheims. The main front, incomparably the most +graceful, was but little damaged by the bombardments (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p>On the ground-floor the great arched doorway is divided by a wooden +post into two delicately carved compartments. Pilasters decorated with +heads, flowers, birds, and horns of plenty frame the three stone-mullioned +windows. Above these runs a frieze of trophies and medallions, with +portraits of noble lords with upturned moustaches and pointed beards, and +of great ladies with <i>collerettes</i> and high head-dresses, gracious or haughty, +standing well out in relief.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i093.jpg" width="500" height="386" alt="HÔTEL NICOLAS LE VERGEUR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">HÔTEL NICOLAS LE VERGEUR</span> +</div> + +<p>On the first storey, carved panels above the window form a sort of broad +frieze of bas-reliefs representing men-at-arms or knights of the time of +François I. and Henri II. fighting at tournaments with lance, sword, or +pike.</p> + +<p>In one of the rooms overlooking the Rue Pluche were, a fine stone <i>mantelpiece</i> +decorated with graceful delicate foliage; a timber-work <i>ceiling</i> with +large and small beams, carrying panels decorated with scrolls, and +15th century <i>tile-flooring</i> of terra-cotta, varnished and painted green and +yellow.</p> + +<p>At the back of the courtyard, a building, supposed by some to be an +old chapel, had been transformed into vast cellars and store-rooms. The +<i>oaken ceiling</i> of the latter, about fifty feet long and twenty-one broad, +destroyed in 1918, was one of the most beautiful in the world. The beams, +whose extremities carried grotesque figures, were carved on all their sides +with foliage, dragons, birds, and fruits. The beams were connected by joists +resting on stems, which represented apes, dragons, persons, and foliage. +Between the joists the panels had the appearance of scrolls.</p> + +<p><i>After visiting the Hôtel Le Vergeur, turn to the right into the Rue Pluche, +which leads to the Place des Marchés. Skirt the Square on the left, then take +the first street on the left</i>: <b>Rue Courmeaux</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +<img src="images/i094a.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="HÔTEL +ROGIER DE +MONCLIN, +18 RUE +COURMEAUX" title="" /> +<span class="caption">HÔTEL +ROGIER DE +MONCLIN, +18 RUE +COURMEAUX</span> +</div> + +<p><i>At No. 18 are the</i> ruins of the <b>Hôtel Rogier de Monclin</b>, destroyed after +April, 1918. This house dated back to the Louis XV. period, but had been +disfigured by modern alterations. The façade overlooking the courtyard, +the entrance-hall, and the staircase with ornamental balustrade, were interesting. +At the time of the consecration of Louis XVI., one of the saloons +was furnished for the King's brother, the Comte (or <i>Monsieur</i>) d'Artois, +whence the name "<i>Rue de Monsieur</i>," formerly borne by the Rue +Courmeaux.</p> + +<p><i>At No. 30</i> is a Renaissance door, almost intact (<i>photo below</i>). +<i>At No. 34, at the corner of the Rue Legendre</i>, is a late 16th century house, +whose interior arrangement and façade are intact, except for the woodwork +of the windows, which was modernised in the 18th century. It +was built on the site of the old wool-market, after Marshal de Saint-Paul, +at the time of the League, had compelled the inhabitants of the Faubourg +Cérès to destroy their houses.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i094b.jpg" width="350" height="580" alt="RENAISSANCE DOOR, +30, Rue Courmeaux." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RENAISSANCE DOOR,<br /> +<i>30, Rue Courmeaux.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i095a.jpg" width="500" height="302" alt="CÉRÈS +ESPLANADE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CÉRÈS +ESPLANADE</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Return to the Rue Courmeaux and take the Rue Bonhomme on the left, which +leads to the Rue Cérès.</i></p> + +<p>The <b>Rue Cérès</b> was totally destroyed by fire, from the Place Royale to +the Post Office, which had to be given up in the autumn of 1914.</p> + +<p><i>At No. 30</i> is the <b>Chamber of Commerce</b>, one of the finest late 18th century +buildings in Rheims. The magnificent Louis XVI. rooms escaped practically +uninjured. The staircase leading to the first storey, with its delicate +balustrade, is very remarkable.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i095b.jpg" width="300" height="474" alt="CHURCH OF ST. ANDRÉ, +Rue du Faubourg Cérès." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHURCH OF ST. ANDRÉ,<br /> +<i>Rue du Faubourg Cérès.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i096a.jpg" width="300" height="445" alt="INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF ST. ANDRÉ" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF ST. ANDRÉ</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/i096b.jpg" width="200" height="390" alt="RELIQUARY OF ST. ANDRÉ" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RELIQUARY OF ST. ANDRÉ</span> +</div> + +<p><i>The Rue Cérès ends at the Esplanade Cérès</i> (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_87">87</a></i>), which was +made outside the old ramparts near the Cérès Gate. The name Cérès +is derived from a tower that long served as a prison (<i>carcer</i>, whence by +corruption <i>chair</i>, <i>cère</i>, and then by false +mythological association, <i>Cérès</i>). It was in +this tower (no longer existing, but famous +as early as the 9th century) that, according +to the <i>chansons de geste</i>, Ogier the Dane, +handed over by Charlemagne to the custody +of the Bishop of Rheims, was incarcerated.</p> + +<p><i>From the Esplanade continue, if desired, +by the Rue du Faubourg Cérès</i> (greatly +damaged by the bombardments), to the +<b>Church of St. André</b>, a modern building +erected by the architect Brunette.</p> + +<p>It was struck several times by shells +and will have to be rebuilt. As early as +the first bombardment of September 4th, +1914, shell splinters damaged the doorway, +transept, stained glass (part of which was +16th century and came from the old church), +small organ, and the painting of the <i>Baptism +of Clovis</i>. Subsequently, the vaulting and +parts of the walls collapsed.</p> + +<p>The Church possesses a precious <b>reliquary</b> +of copper (15th century) and a <b>statue of +St. André</b> (patron of the church) of painted +and gilded stone, attributed without authority, +to Pierre Jacques.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i097a.jpg" width="500" height="431" alt="HÔTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1916 +19 Rue Eugène Desteuque." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HÔTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1916<br /> +<i>19 Rue Eugène Desteuque.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>Return to the Esplanade Cérès, turn to the left at the beginning of the +Boulevard de la Paix, then to the right into the</i> <b>Rue Eugène Desteuque</b>.</p> + +<p><i>At No. 19 of this street</i> are the ruins of the <b>Hôtel Thiret de Prain</b>.</p> + + +<h4>The Hôtel Thiret de Prain</h4> + +<p>This was a mansion in the days of Henry IV. and Louis XIII. Richelieu +stayed there in 1641.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i097b.jpg" width="500" height="430" alt="HÔTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1918 +These two photographs illustrate the systematic destructions +practised by the Germans." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HÔTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1918<br /> +<i>These two photographs illustrate the systematic destructions +practised by the Germans.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>An imposing building, bordered with streets on its four sides, it had +retained its original appearance. The carriage-entrance in the Rue Eugène +Desteuque alone had been rebuilt in 1697. The principal entrance was +surmounted with a gallery, the walls, ceiling and beams of which were +covered with delicate decorative paintings.</p> + +<p>On the first floor one of the corner rooms, looking east, contained a large +Henry IV. mantelpiece, above which were the arms of the nobles of Prain. +Only the metallic portion remains.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +<img src="images/i098a.jpg" width="500" height="434" alt="INTERIOR FAÇADE OF THE CLOISTER OF THE +FRANCISCAN FRIARS +In the courtyard of No. 9, Rue des Trois-Raisinets." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INTERIOR FAÇADE OF THE CLOISTER OF THE +FRANCISCAN FRIARS<br /> +<i>In the courtyard of No. 9, Rue des Trois-Raisinets.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The dove-cot of the Hôtel, a massive square tower with pent-house roof, +overlooking the Rue d'Avenay, was destroyed by the bombardments.</p> + +<p><i>On the left of the Rue Eugène-Desteuque, opposite the Hôtel Thiret-de-Prain, +is the</i> Rue des Trois-Raisinets. At No. 9 are the ruins of a Franciscan Cloister +(<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p>This street (<i>photo below</i>), like the Cloister, suffered severely from the +bombardments.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i098b.jpg" width="500" height="439" alt="RUINS OF THE MARGOTIN FACTORY +14, Rue des Trois-Raisinets." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE MARGOTIN FACTORY<br /> +<i>14, Rue des Trois-Raisinets.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>Return to the Rue Eugène-Desteuque and follow the same as far as the</i> Rue +de la Grue (<i>on the right</i>). This street was badly damaged by shell-fire and +is impracticable for motor-cars.</p> + +<p>It was named after the sign carved on a stone (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_91">91</a></i>) of the house +at No. 5 (entirely destroyed by the shells). At the end stood the house where +J. B. Colbert was born (at the corner of the Rues Cérès and de Nanteuil, +<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +<img src="images/i099a.jpg" width="500" height="368" alt="THE SIGN WHICH GAVE ITS NAME TO THE +RUE DE LA GRUE +It was at No. 5, but has been destroyed." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SIGN WHICH GAVE ITS NAME TO THE +RUE DE LA GRUE<br /> +<i>It was at No. 5, but has been destroyed.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>Return to the Rue Eugène-Desteuque, follow it as far as the</i> Rue de +l'Université. <i>Turn into the latter on the left.</i></p> + +<p>This street was destroyed as early as September, 1914. At No. 25 are +the ruins of a Professional School for Girls, formerly the St. Martha Hospital. +The latter, also known as the "Hôpital des Magneuses," was founded in the +17th century by Mesdames de Magneux, and rebuilt in the 18th century +in the Louis XVI. style.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i099b.jpg" width="350" height="503" alt="RUINS OF THE HOUSE WHERE COLBERT +WAS BORN +At the corner of the Rues Cérès and de Nanteuil." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />RUINS OF THE HOUSE WHERE COLBERT +WAS BORN<br /> +<i>At the corner of the Rues Cérès and de Nanteuil.</i></span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p> + +<p>At No. 40, opposite the Sub-Prefecture, now in ruins, is the <b>Maison de +Jean Maillefer</b>, named after the rich merchant who built it in 1652. It +was scarcely finished, when it was chosen—and this was a source of pride to +its owner—as an abode for Anne of Austria, at the time of the consecration +of Louis XIV. The inside of the courtyard alone has retained practically +its ancient appearance. The front looking on the street had recently been +put back and altered. Some of the sculpture which adorned it came from +another house.</p> + +<p><i>A short distance farther on, on the left, is the</i> Place Godinot, named after a +canon of the 18th century, who caused numerous alterations to be made in +the decoration of the choir and sanctuary of the Cathedral.</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue St. Just on the right, and follow its continuation</i> (<i>the Rue des +Anglais</i>) as far as the Rue d'Anjou, <i>which take on the right</i>.</p> + +<p>The <b>Hôtel de la Pourcelette</b> (No. 7) evokes memories of <i>Mabillon</i>, +who lived there when a young student at the University of Rheims.</p> + +<p><i>At the end of the Rue d'Anjou, turn to the left into the Rue du Cardinal de +Lorraine, and follow the same to the short</i> Rue des Tournelles <i>on the left</i>.</p> + +<p>In the house at No. 3 of this street were incorporated the turret and two +principal windows of an old Gothic 16th century structure, situated at No. 18 +of the Rue des Anglais, and in ruins since 1898. The drawing-room likewise +contains a large stone chimney-piece, which formerly stood in the great hall +of the old house.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i100.jpg" width="350" height="529" alt="LOUIS XIII. DOOR +At No. 20 Rue du Carrouge." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LOUIS XIII. DOOR<br /> +<i>At No. 20 Rue du Carrouge.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>At the end of the Rue des Tournelles, turn to the right into the Rue des Fusiliers, +which leads to the Place du Parvis. Cross the latter to the Rue Tronson +Ducoudray. Follow this street, which runs between the</i> Palais de Justice <i>and</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +<i>the</i> Theatre, <i>turn to the left, in front of the latter, into the Rue de Vesle, and take +the first street on the right</i>, the Rue de Talleyrand.</p> + +<p><i>Follow this street</i>, the greater part of which was destroyed by fire +during the bombardments of April, 1918. It suffered further damage in +the months that followed, and a number of interesting old houses were +destroyed.</p> + +<p><i>Turn into the first street on the right (Rue du Cadran St. Pierre), and follow +the same as far as the Rue de la Clef. Take the latter on the right.</i></p> + +<p>Before doing so, however, take a look at the <b>fine Louis XIII. entrance</b> +(<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_92">92</a></i>) of the house at No. 20 of the Rue du Carrouge opposite.</p> + +<p><i>At No. 4 of the Rue de la Clef are the</i> ruins of the former <b>Hôtel de Bezannes</b>, +partly built by Pierre de Bezannes, Lieutenant of Rheims in 1458 This +house contains some fine 16th and 18th century woodwork.</p> + +<p><i>The Rue des Deux Anges, which continues the Rue de la Clef, leads to the</i> +Place du Palais, destroyed during the bombardments of April, 1918. <i>In +this square stands the</i> <b>Palais de Justice</b>. The <i>Palais</i> replaced the old +Hôtel-Dieu, but has been almost entirely rebuilt. It is a building of little +note, the principal entrance in particular being stiff to excess.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i101.jpg" width="500" height="421" alt="RUE CARNOT +The Place Royale is seen in the background." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUE CARNOT<br /> +<i>The Place Royale is seen in the background.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Its only interest is provided by two relics of the past: the vast cellars +or subterranean vaults with pointed arches supported by columns with +Gothic capitals; and the façade of the Audience-Chamber, formerly the +principal ward of the old Hôtel Dieu, the exterior of which has retained its +venerable appearance and the interior, vestiges of its lofty timber-work and +wainscoted vaulting.</p> + +<p>The ground-floor of the <i>Palais</i> alone escaped damage from fire and the +shells, thanks to a terrace of reinforced concrete.</p> + +<p><i>On the left of the Palais take the Rue Carnot</i>, destroyed by the bombardments +of April, 1918.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Rue Carnot communicates with the courtyard of the Chapter-House, +also burnt, by a great gate and passage which pass right through a +house.</p> + +<p>This entrance was built about 1530, in the transition style between the +Gothic and Renaissance. Its elliptical arch bears a scutcheon with the arms +of the Chapter. Consoles, decorated with grotesque figures, support the +beams. The points of the turrets have disappeared, a supporting shaft has +been mutilated, and the carved wooden leaves of the door have been removed +to the Lycée, yet the gate is still imposing.</p> + +<p>It is the last remaining vestige of the Chapter buildings which, with their +gates closing at the same time as those of the city, at the sound of the bell, +formed a "city within a city." In point of fact, the Chapter was once lord +of that part of the city which lies around the Cathedral, and which it administered. +The canons, jealous of their prerogatives, were often in conflict +with the archbishops.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i102.jpg" width="400" height="645" alt="DOOR OF THE CHAPTER-HOUSE +COURTYARD +The Northern Transept of the Cathedral is +seen in the background." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />DOOR OF THE CHAPTER-HOUSE +COURTYARD<br /> +<i>The Northern Transept of the Cathedral is +seen in the background.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>A few capitals and shafts of the ancient cloister of the Chapter, adjoining +the Cathedral, were recently discovered and placed under one of the penthouses +built between the buttresses of Nôtre-Dame.</p> + +<p><i>Go through the gate, cross the Place du Chapitre, follow the Rue du Préau +towards the Cathedral, then turn to the right into the Rue Robert de Coucy, which +leads back to the Place du Parvis Nôtre-Dame.</i></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3>SECOND ITINERARY FOR VISITING RHEIMS</h3> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 900px;"> +<img src="images/i103a.png" width="900" height="815" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><i>Starting from the Place du Parvis-Nôtre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier, +opposite the Cathedral. Turn to the left into the</i> Rue Chanzy, which was +destroyed by the bombardments of April-August, 1918.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i103b.jpg" width="400" height="253" alt="RUE +CHANZY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUE +CHANZY</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i104a.jpg" width="400" height="386" alt="DOOR AND BALCONY +OF THE HÔTEL DE +COURTAGNON, +(18th Century), +at No. 71 +Rue Chanzy" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOOR AND BALCONY +OF THE HÔTEL DE +COURTAGNON,<br /> +<i>(18th Century), +at No. 71 +Rue Chanzy</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The ruins of the 18th century <b>Hôtel Lagoille de Courtagnon</b> may be +seen at No. 71 of this street. It was destroyed by the bombardments +of April, 1918, with the exception of a part of the front. The finely +carved door and remarkable ironwork of the balcony are visible in the +above photograph.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i104b.jpg" width="400" height="376" alt="ORNAMENTAL +RAIN-WATER +PIPE-HEAD OF +LEAD UNDER +THE ROOF OF THE +HOSPICE NOËL +CAQUÉ (see p. 97)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ORNAMENTAL +RAIN-WATER +PIPE-HEAD OF +LEAD UNDER +THE ROOF OF THE +HOSPICE NOËL +CAQUÉ (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_97">97</a></i>)</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i105a.jpg" width="400" height="376" alt="GALLO-ROMAN +BAS-RELIEF +at No. 65, Rue de +l'Université. This +bas-relief and the +one opposite, on the +wall of the Lycée, +are the last +remaining vestiges +of a Gallo-Roman +gate." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GALLO-ROMAN +BAS-RELIEF<br /> +<i>at No. 65, Rue de +l'Université. This +bas-relief and the +one opposite, on the +wall of the Lycée, +are the last +remaining vestiges +of a Gallo-Roman +gate.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The <b>Hospice Noël Caqué</b> (formerly Hospice St. Marcoul), <i>on the right</i>, +was seriously damaged by the bombardments of April, 1918. It dated +from the middle of the 17th century, and was well preserved, with the exception +of the chapel, rebuilt in 1873.</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue de Contrai, on the left, which leads to the</i> Rue de l'Université. +Inserted in the façade of the house at No. 65 (<i>on the right</i>), and in the wall of +the Lycée (<i>on the left</i>), are two stone <b>bas-reliefs</b> ornamented with trophies +of arms and Roman insignia, the sole remaining vestiges of the <i>Porte Basée</i> +(<i>from Basilea</i>) which formerly stood there on the Cæsarean way, at the southern +extremity of the Gallo-Roman town. (<i>See photo above of the right-hand +bas-relief.</i>)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/i105b.jpg" width="550" height="317" alt="THE FAÇADE +OF THE LYCÉE +DESTROYED +BY THE +BOMBARDMENTS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE FAÇADE +OF THE LYCÉE +DESTROYED +BY THE +BOMBARDMENTS</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Follow the Rue de l'Université and skirt the</i> <b>Lycée de Garçons</b>, of which +only the chapel and one of the buildings are left. The rest was burnt or +destroyed by shell-fire.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +<img src="images/i106.jpg" width="400" height="398" alt="DOOR OF THE +PETIT LYCÉE, +5, Rue Vauthier-le-Noir. +On either side of +the arcade are +heads of +"Jean qui rit" +and +"Jean qui pleure."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOOR OF THE +PETIT LYCÉE,<br /> +<i>5, Rue Vauthier-le-Noir. +On either side of +the arcade are +heads of +"Jean qui rit" +and +"Jean qui pleure."</i></span> +</div> + +<p>The Lycée replaced the old <i>Collège des Bons Enfants</i>, founded in the Middle +Ages, and rebuilt in the 16th century by the Cardinal de Lorraine, founder of +the University of Rheims.</p> + +<p>Of the old <i>Collège</i>, only the central part remained, in the second court +built by Archbishop Charles Maurice Le Tellier in 1686 and the following +years.</p> + +<p>The gate of the <i>Cour des Etudes</i> dates from 1688.</p> + +<p>The ancient door of the Collège—the tympana of whose arcading contain +two laughing and crying heads—was transferred to the entrance of the +<i>Petit Lycée</i>, at No. 5 of the street on the right of the Lycée (Rue Vauthier-le-Noir) +(<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Shortly after the Lycée, turn to the right into the Place Godinot, then take the +Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames on the right.</i> At No. 8 are the ruins of the <b>Abbey +of St. Pierre-les-Dames</b>.</p> + +<p>Of this celebrated Abbey, where several royal persons stayed: <i>Mary +Stuart</i> twice, in her childhood and after she was widowed; <i>Henry IV.</i>, on a +visit to his cousin, the Abbess Renée II.; <i>Anne of Austria</i>, of whom the +<i>Congrégation</i> library contains a portrait; there remains hardly anything but +two 16th century <i>pavillons</i> belonging to the period when Renée de Lorraine, +sister of the Queen of Scotland and aunt of Mary Stuart, was abbess of the +convent. Built of stone and brick with marble incrustations, and adorned +with beautiful carvings, these <i>pavillons</i> were pure Renaissance in style. +The head of an angel with unfolded wings and the head of a grinning demon +surmounted the two windows of one of the ground-floors. On the first floor +of the same <i>pavillon</i> the window, framed with delicate ornaments, opened +above a cornice, the principal sculptural subject of which was a nude woman, +helmeted, suckling two children.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +<img src="images/i107a.jpg" width="400" height="376" alt="RUINS OF THE +ABBEY OF +ST. PIERRE-LES-DAMES, +8, Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />RUINS OF THE +ABBEY OF +ST. PIERRE-LES-DAMES,<br /> +<i>8, Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>The Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames leads to the Rue des Murs, into which turn +to the right, then to the left into the Rue du Barbâtre. Follow the latter to the end.</i> +This street suffered greatly from the early bombardments, and was almost +entirely destroyed in the summer of 1918.</p> + +<p><i>At Nos. 137 and 139, at the corner of the Rue Montlaurent</i>, are the ruins of +the <b>Hôtel Féret de Montlaurent</b>.</p> + + +<h4>Hôtel Féret de Montlaurent.</h4> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i107b.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="GALLERY FACING THE COURTYARD OF THE HÔTEL FÉRET +DE MONTLAURENT +The statues in the niches represent the sun and planets." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GALLERY FACING THE COURTYARD OF THE HÔTEL FÉRET +DE MONTLAURENT<br /> +<i>The statues in the niches represent the sun and planets.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>This large building, occupied by the <i>Cercle Catholique</i>, was commenced +about 1540 by Hubert Féret, a <i>Lieutenant</i> of the people, and the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> +celebrated member of a family which played an important part at Rheims +in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. The outside façade has been greatly +altered. At No. 137 it was entirely rebuilt under Louis XVI. At No. 139 +the ground-floor openings have been modified.</p> + +<p>As in many of the mansions of the 16th century, most of the decoration +is on the inner façades. Inside the courtyard, on the ground-floor of the +wing abutting on the Rue Montlaurent, there is a six-arched gallery which +was damaged but not destroyed (<i>photo,</i> p. <a href="#Page_99">99</a>). Between the arch-centres +and at the ends of the gallery are seven niches, three feet high, enclosing +stone statues of the sun and the six planets known in the 16th century.</p> + +<p>Taken in their order they are: <b>Saturn</b>, with a scythe in his hand and +serpent round his arm, devouring a child, and the zodiacal signs Aquarius +and Capricornus at his feet; <b>Jupiter</b>, holding a lighted torch, with Sagittarius +at his feet; <b>Mars</b>, armed from head to foot, surmounting Cancer and Aries; +the <b>Sun</b>, personified by Phœbus with flowing mantle, a lion at his side; +<b>Venus</b>, clothed only in her hair, surmounting Taurus and Balœna; <b>Mercury</b>, +with wings on his head and heels, the caduceus in his hand, Virgo and Gemini +at his feet; the <b>Moon</b>, represented by Diana bearing a crescent; below her +Scorpio.</p> + +<p>The escutcheons on the wall at the back of this façade bear the initials +of Régnault Féret, who completed the mansion. In the second court there +are still vestiges of the chapel of this family.</p> + +<p><i>At No. 142 of the same street</i>, the entrance to the <b>Cour Maupinot</b> (one of +the numerous <i>cours</i> which have survived in Rheims) is framed in pilasters, +the carved entablature of which supports a triangular pediment (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p><i>The Rue Barbâtre is continued by the Rue des Salines, which leads to the +Place St. Nicaise.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i108.jpg" width="400" height="373" alt="ENTRANCE TO +MAUPINOT COURT. +THE DOORWAY IS +RENAISSANCE, +142, Rue du Barbâtre. +See Itinerary, p. 95" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO +MAUPINOT COURT. +THE DOORWAY IS +RENAISSANCE,<br /> +<i>142, Rue du Barbâtre. +See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_95">95</a></i></span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Place St. Nicaise was destroyed by the bombardments of April-August, +1918. It took its name from the celebrated Bishop of +Rheims, who, with his sister St. Eutropia, was put to death by the Vandals +in 407.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Nicaise, rebuilt in the 13th century by Libergier and +Robert de Coucy, was destroyed at the time of the Revolution. Amongst +other curiosities it contained a loose pillar, which Peter the Great had pointed +out to him at the time of his journey through Rheims.</p> + +<p>At the corner of the Place St. Nicaise, between the Boulevard Victor-Hugo +and the Rue St. Nicaise, is the entrance to the <b>Champion Cellars</b>, +in which the <i>Dubail</i> school was installed during the war (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_24">24</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue St. Nicaise to the Boulevard Henry Vasnier (photo below), +turn into the latter, on the right, and follow same as far as the</i> <b>Rond-Point +St. Nicaise</b>.</p> + +<p>All this part of the town, which was quite close to the German lines, +was constantly under the fire of their guns. It was violently bombarded +during the German offensives of May, June and July, 1918.</p> + +<p><i>Near the Rond-Point de St. Nicaise are the</i> <b>Pommery Cellars</b>, which +gave shelter to many citizens and school-classes during the war (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_24">24</a></i>).</p> + + +<h4>The Pommery Cellars</h4> + +<p>These cellars are among the finest in Rheims, and form, with their +eleven miles of streets, squares and boulevards lighted by electricity, rail-tracks, +waggons, lifts, electric pumps and siphons, quite an underground city. +A visit to them will give the tourist an idea of the importance and complexity +of the Champagne wine industry in Rheims.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i109.jpg" width="700" height="480" alt="THE "HENRY VASNIER," SEEN FROM THE "ROND-POINT ST. NICAISE"" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "HENRY VASNIER," SEEN FROM THE "ROND-POINT ST. NICAISE"</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i110.jpg" width="600" height="447" alt="TRENCHES AND SHELTERS IN THE SQUARE ST. NICAISE +See Itinerary, p. 95, and panorama seen from the top of St. Nicaise Hill, p. 27." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />TRENCHES AND SHELTERS IN THE SQUARE ST. NICAISE<br /> +<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, and panorama seen from the top of St. Nicaise Hill, p. <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>The Boulevard Diancourt, which skirts the Square St. Nicaise, begins at +the</i> Rond-Point St. Nicaise.</p> + +<p>This square was much cut up by the bombardments, and by the trenches +and defensive works made there during the war (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p>The square contains two eminences, from the top of which there is a fine +panoramic view of Rheims.</p> + +<p>The photograph on page <a href="#Page_27">27</a> was taken from the eminence nearest the +Rond-Point St. Nicaise.</p> + +<p>The other eminence is crowned by a limestone tower—all that remains of +the ancient city ramparts.</p> + +<p><i>Follow the Boulevard Diancourt to the Place Dieu-Lumière.</i></p> + +<p>The name <i>Dieu-Lumière</i>, borne by the old gate through which Joan-of-Arc +and the Dauphin entered Rheims, was not derived, as supposed at the +Renaissance, from the Sun-God Apollo, but from the old Gate <i>Dieu-li-Mire</i> +(God the Physician), so called in the Middle Ages on account of the proximity +of a Cistercian hospital.</p> + +<p><i>Cross the square and take the Rue Dieu-Lumière on the right to the</i> Place +St.-Timothée. The wood-panelled houses, whose <i>loges</i> faced the Place +St.-Timothée, were destroyed by the bombardments of April-September, +1918, except the one at the corner of the Rue St. Julien. This house, though +severely damaged, has retained its butcher's stall with 17th century wooden +balustrading.</p> + +<p><i>Take the Rue St. Julien on the left to the Place St.-Remi, in which stands the</i> +<b>Church of St. Remi</b>.</p> + + +<h4>The Church of St. Remi</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Church of St. Remi is the oldest church in Rheims, and one of the +oldest in all France. Although it is not certain that it replaced a Roman +basilica, said to have stood on the site of the present transept, there is no +doubt that Gallo-Roman building materials, taken from neighbouring edifices, +were used in its construction or restoration.</p> + +<p>To-day, the church covers a ground-space of about an acre and a quarter. +In shape a Latin cross, it measures inside about 450 feet in length, 98 feet +in breadth and 124 feet in height under the vaulting. Only the southern +façade shows to advantage, but in spite of its varied styles, which mark the +different stages of its growth, the church realises to the full the purpose of +its founders. Its architecture and decoration, especially in the interior, +make it, as was intended, a grand and dignified depository for sacred +remains.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Remi stands on the site of a former cemetery, in the +middle of which was the Chapel of St. Christopher, where St. Remi was +buried. The chapel soon became popular and grew rapidly, especially between +the 6th and 9th centuries, when it became a great fortified church. The +present church, which replaced it, is not only one of the finest Romanesque +churches in the north of France, but also forms a curious epitome of the history +of architecture for several centuries. Begun in 1039 under Abbot Thierry, +it was still far from finished when consecrated in 1049 by Pope Leo IX. +Building was continued in 1170 by Abbot Pierre de Celle, the future Bishop +of Chartres, whose restorations were the first application of the Gothic style +to a great building in Rheims; in the 13th and 14th centuries, under Abbot +Jean Canart, and in the 15th century, under Abbot Robert de Lenoncourt. +Partially transformed at the end of the 16th century, it has been restored +and partly rebuilt at intervals since 1839.</p> + + +<h4>The Church of St. Remi during the War</h4> + +<p>The Church of St. Remi escaped severe damage until the middle of 1918. +The bombardment of September 4, 1914, injured one of the tapestries +depicting the life of St. Remi, and destroyed a fine painting: <i>The Entry of +Clovis into Rheims</i>. The bombardment of November 16, 1914, wrecked the +apsidal chapel of the Virgin, bringing down the vaulting, destroying the +key-stone and pointed arches, crushing the altar beneath a heap of ruins, +smashing the magnificent windows of the apsidal gallery, and destroying +the priceless 12th century stained-glass depicting <i>Christ crucified between the +Virgin and St. John</i>. The Church narrowly escaped destruction when the +Hôtel-Dieu Hospital was burnt down in 1916. From April, 1918, it was +marked down by the German batteries. The roof was entirely burnt, +and the dummy vaulting of the nave collapsed. Of the fine 15th century +timber-work nothing remains, but parts of the lofty 13th century vaulting +over the choir and transept withstood the bombardment. The treasure, +tapestries, sacristy doors, storied tile-flooring of the chapel of St. Eloi, +the old stained-glass of the lofty windows, and the apsidal windows round +the gallery of the first storey, were saved by the Historical Monuments +Department.</p> + +<p>The tomb of St. Remi is intact. The relics of the saint which, at the +request of the Archbishop of Rheims had not been disturbed, were removed +by the vicar of the parish at the time of the final evacuation of the town. +The reliquary was taken away by officers at a later date, while the church was +burning.</p> + + +<h4>The Apse of St. Remi Church</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Apse was rebuilt under Pierre de Celle in 1170, in early Gothic. Five +three-sided radiating chapels arranged in three stages, one behind the other, +have flowing and elegant lines, broken by the enormous projections of the +buttresses which were added at a later period.</p> + +<p>This apse is one of the earliest religious edifices in France, in which flying +buttresses were employed.</p> + +<p>The latter, very simple in design, rest on outside fluted columns detached +from the wall of the apse. This is one of the last examples of fluting, as +applied to columns, the process disappearing generally with the introduction +of pointed architecture, only to reappear at the Renaissance.</p> + +<p>The persistence of this fluting is doubtless explained by the influence +of the many specimens of Roman architecture which Rheims had preserved.</p> + + +<h4>The Doorway of the Southern Transept</h4> + +<p>Although the transept dates from the 11th century, its southern façade +was built in 1480 by Robert de Lenoncourt.</p> + +<p>The doorway, which bears the Lenoncourt arms, comprises only one door, +divided by a pillar with statues of St. Remi and the Virgin.</p> + +<p>The deep vaulting of the door is ornamented with vine-foliage. At the +base, in the supporting walls, are statues of St. Sixtus and St. Sinicius (the +first missionaries to Rheims) bare-footed, clothed in long embroidered mantles +and holding books. In the vaulting above the head-covering of the missionaries +are eight groups of statuettes representing episodes in the Life and +Passion of Jesus.</p> + +<p>Tourists who follow the Itinerary on page <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, come out by the Rue +St. Julien, in front of the doorway of the south transept. The latter is +between the ruined apse (<i>on the right</i>) and the south lateral façade (<i>on the +left</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i112.jpg" width="400" height="408" alt="SOUTHERN +TRANSEPT +OF ST. REMI +CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">SOUTHERN +TRANSEPT +OF ST. REMI +CHURCH</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i113.jpg" width="400" height="399" alt="DOORWAY +OF THE +SOUTHERN +TRANSEPT +(see photo, +p. 104)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DOORWAY +OF THE +SOUTHERN +TRANSEPT<br /> +(<i>see photo, +p. <a href="#Page_104">104</a></i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The 15th century leaves of the door are composed of wood panels in +blind arcading, ornamented with flowering clover.</p> + +<p>On the buttresses which frame the doorway are five statues of saints, +including St. Remi, St. Benedict, and St. Christopher carrying a kneeling +Jesus on his shoulder.</p> + +<p>The tympanum of the gable above the great flamboyant window is +arranged on a Gothic pediment. Its decoration represents the <i>Assumption +of the Virgin and her crowning in Heaven</i>.</p> + +<p>On the top of the pediment, and crowning the whole, is St. Michael +trampling Satan underfoot.</p> + +<p>The whole of the doorway is a beautiful example of Flamboyant Gothic. +Its rich carvings and delicate ornamentation are in striking contrast with +the severity of the rest of the building.</p> + +<p>At the intersection of the transept, there was formerly a wooden spire, +built in 1394, which was pulled down as unsafe in 1825, by order of those +who had charge of the arrangements connected with the consecration of +Charles X.</p> + +<p>On the right-hand side of the transept, and also in the north transept, +are small semi-circular chapels.</p> + + +<h4>South Lateral Façade</h4> + +<p>This front has the bare, massive appearance of the 11th century buildings. +The remarkable Roman arches, massive buttresses and blind doorway, framed +by two primitive capitals with a wreath-shaped astragal, are apparently +vestiges of constructions of an earlier date than those of Abbot Thierry.</p> + +<p>The semi-cylindrical abutments are among the oldest of mediæval +buttresses. They are crowned with cones or capitals, the greater part of +which are devoid of decoration.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i114.jpg" width="600" height="651" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h4>The West Front of St. Remi Church</h4> + +<p>Between its two towers, this gabled façade, the recesses and blind arcading +of which form almost its sole decoration, is in strong contrast with the principal +façade of the Cathedral. At once elegant and severe, like most of the monastic +buildings of the 12th century, it lacks unity. All that part situated above +the five windows of the first storey, including the rose-window, has been +rebuilt in modern times. The very simple rose-window, between two lines +of superimposed arcading, is protected, in the Champagne style, by a relieving-arch. +The northern tower (<i>on the left</i>) was almost entirely rebuilt in the +19th century, on the lines of the old one. The simpler southern tower (<i>on +the right</i>), with its arched windows and loopholes, is Roman of the 11th or +12th century. The pointed part of the façade is late 12th century, and dates +from the time of the restorations by Pierre de Celle.</p> + +<p>Three doors open on the nave. The central one is flanked by two columns +with statues of St. Peter and St. Remi. The marble and granite columns +came, no doubt, from some neighbouring Gallo-Roman building. These +statues, with arms pressed close to their sides in the ancient stiff manner, are +probably from the original basilicas.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i115.jpg" width="600" height="650" alt="THE NAVE +(seen from +the Choir) +(Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE +(<i>seen from +the Choir</i>) +(<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<h4>The Inner Side of the Western Doorway</h4> + +<p>Here, the architecture is peculiar. Pierced columns form a gallery +connecting the upper courses. The galleries of the first storey are supported +by two great columnar shafts, each formed of two portions joined by a stone +ring and surmounted by bell-shaped marble capitals. The columns and +capitals are Gallo-Roman.</p> + +<h4>The Nave</h4> + +<p>Alterations were made at different times to the nave which, in the 11th +century, had a timber-work roof. Pierre de Celle lengthened it by two bays, +the pointed arches of which contrast with the circular ones of the lower bays, +and also increased its height. <i>Note the ogives above the round arches.</i> The +visible timber-work was replaced with vaulting on diagonal ribs sustained +by clusters of small Gothic columns backing up against the Roman piers, +the latter being still visible. These heavy piers (composed of fourteen small +columns) which surround the central nave, and whose capitals (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_108">108</a></i>), +with Barbaric wreathed astragals and foliage, recall the Carolingian period, +contrast strikingly with the lightness of the apse. They are undoubtedly +11th century. All the stone vaulting of the nave, as far as the transept, +was replaced after 1839 with wood and plaster, which collapsed under the +bombardments of 1918, when the roof was burnt.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +<img src="images/i116a.jpg" width="500" height="268" alt="ROMAN +CAPITAL +IN THE +NAVE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROMAN +CAPITAL +IN THE +NAVE</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i116b.jpg" width="500" height="710" alt="THE NAVE AND CHOIR IN 1914 (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE AND CHOIR IN 1914 (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The pulpit, with its Benedictine monogram, is late 17th century. It is +ornamented with three bas-reliefs: <i>St. Remi receiving the Sacred Ampulla</i>, +<i>St. Benedict imploring the Holy Spirit</i>, and <i>St. Benedict giving the Injunction +to his monks</i>. As far as the pulpit, on both sides of the nave, the granite +columns resting on the piers date from the Gallo-Roman period.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +<img src="images/i117a.jpg" width="500" height="310" alt="TRIFORIUM +OF ST. REMI +CHURCH +(seen from +entrance)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">TRIFORIUM +OF ST. REMI +CHURCH<br /> +(<i>seen from +entrance</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The side-aisles of the nave are surmounted with a triforium (<i>photo above</i>) +with semi-circular vaulting at right-angles to the nave. The south aisle is +almost entirely in ruins (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_107">107</a></i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i117b.jpg" width="700" height="566" alt="THE NAVE AND CHOIR IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE NAVE AND CHOIR IN 1919</span> +</div> + + +<h4>The Tapestries</h4> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> +<p>The priceless tapestries which, before the war, decorated the tribunals +of the side-aisles, were saved.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i118.jpg" width="700" height="709" alt="THE TENTH TAPESTRY OF ST. REMI, DAMAGED BY SHELL-SPLINTERS ON +SEPT. 4, 1914 +(See description, pp. 110, 111.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TENTH TAPESTRY OF ST. REMI, DAMAGED BY SHELL-SPLINTERS ON<br /> +SEPT. 4, 1914<br /> +(<i>See description, pp. <a href="#Page_100">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>Those given by Robert de Lenoncourt and restored by <i>Les Gobelins</i>, are +rich in composition and decorative effect. In an architectural frame of the +Renaissance period, they represent the following legendary scenes from the +life of St. Remi, the costumes belonging to the period of François I.:—</p> + +<p>1. The blind hermit Montanus visits the new-born Remi, who, touching him +with his fingers wet with milk, restores his sight.</p> + +<p>2. The hermit St. Remi, called by the people to the bishopric, receives +the mitre.</p> + +<p>3. Four miracles are performed by the saint: he extinguishes a fire lighted +by demons in the city; he restores life to a girl; he is served at table by +angels; when wine ran short at the table of his cousin Celsa, he blessed an +empty cask, which was immediately filled.</p> + +<p>4. The Battle of Tolbiac; Clovis instructed and baptized by Remi;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +the miraculous dove and an angel bring from heaven the Sacred Ampulla +and the fleur-de-lys scutcheon.</p> + +<p>5. Remi gives Clovis a cask of wine, telling him that he will always be +victorious so long as the cask remains full; a miller who refused to give his +mill to the Church, sees his wheel turn the wrong way and his mill fall +down; St. Génebaud, Bishop of Soissons, punished by Remi for his sins, +is afterwards delivered from his fetters by the saint.</p> + +<p>6. The miracle of Hydrissen: Remi raises a man from the dead, who +confirms his wish to leave a portion of his wealth to the Church, to the confusion +of his son-in-law who contested the will.</p> + +<p>7. Remi contemplating a heap of corn which he had collected to provide +against famine, and which some drunkards had burnt. At a Council, Remi +paralyses the tongue of a heretic priest, and then restores speech to him after +repentance.</p> + +<p>8. Remi, singing Matins in the chapel of the Virgin, is assisted by St. Peter +and St. Paul and blessed by Mary. Remi, blind, dictates his will in the +presence of St. Génebaud and St. Médard. Remi recovers his sight, celebrates +mass and gives the Communion to his clergy. Remi dies and four angels +carry away his soul.</p> + +<p>9. Remi's funeral; the procession goes towards the church of St. Timothy, +where it is proposed to bury the saint, but in front of St. Christopher's, on +the site of the present basilica, the saint, by making it impossible to lift his +coffin, manifests his desire to be interred in this chapel. The saint's winding-sheet, +carried in procession, dispels the plague that had been ravaging the +city.</p> + +<p>10. Angels transfer the relics of the saint to his mausoleum. A soldier +who had tried to break in the door of the church, cannot withdraw his foot. +Remi punishes the Bishop of Mayence, guilty of theft. Remi reveals himself +with the Virgin and St. John. The Archbishop of Rheims, Robert de Lenoncourt, +kneeling, presents the ten pieces of tapestry to the saint.</p> + +<p>The latter tapestry was riddled with splinters (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_110">110</a></i>) during the +bombardment of September 4, 1914.</p> + + +<h4>The Treasure</h4> + +<p>This was kept in the sacristy, the 15th century carved wood doors of +which have Flamboyant style frames.</p> + +<p>Formerly the richest of all the church treasures of France, it was impoverished +in the course of the centuries, through wars and revolutions.</p> + +<p>The <b>enamels</b> by Landin of Limoges (1633), dedicated to the lives of +St. Timothy and St. Remi, a 12th century abbot's <b>crozier</b>, <b>reliquaries</b> +and <b>sacerdotal ornaments</b> are noteworthy.</p> + +<p>The treasure was removed, together with the doors of the sacristy, by the +Historical Monuments Department.</p> + + +<h4>The North Transept</h4> + +<p>Three small white marble Gallo-Roman or Carolingian capitals crown the +colonnettes of the triforium.</p> + +<p>Formerly, the church contained several tombs. Let into the wall of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +north transept is a Latin epitaph, praising the virtues of a woman named +Guiberge, who seems to have combined in her person the perfections of six +women, <i>i.e.</i> the beauty of Rachel, the fidelity of Rebecca, the modesty of +Susanna, the piety of Tabitha, the warm affections of Ruth, and the high +morals of Anna.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i120.jpg" width="500" height="593" alt="THE RUINED TRANSEPT +In the foreground: Renaissance Balustrade round the Choir (see p. 115), at +the intersection of the Northern Transept. At the back: Inner side of the +South Transept Door." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUINED TRANSEPT<br /> +<i>In the foreground: Renaissance Balustrade round the Choir (see p. <a href="#Page_115">115</a>), at +the intersection of the Northern Transept. At the back: Inner side of the +South Transept Door.</i></span> +</div> + + +<h4>The South Transept</h4> + +<p>The first chapel on the right of the apse, against the transept, is the chapel +of St. Eloi.</p> + +<p>In 1846, forty-eight storied flag-stones, taken from the flooring of the +sanctuary of the church of St. Nicaise and collected by the architect Brunette, +were placed there.</p> + +<p>These 14th century lozenge-shaped stones are engraved in black, the +hollowed-out portions being filled with lead. Each stone has a pretty border<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +with a square medallion, in the middle of which two or three figures represent +a scene from the Old Testament, from Noah to Daniel in the lions' den.</p> + +<p>This chapel also contained two very expressive mediæval statues of +painted wood and a 14th century Christ, all of which came from the old church +of St. Balsamic.</p> + +<p>The second chapel on the eastern side of the south transept contained an +Entombment dating from 1531. In this group, which belonged to the old +church of the Commandery of the Temple of Rheims, Joseph of Arimathea +and Nicodemus hold the winding-sheet. Salome, and Mary the mother of +St. James, stand near the tomb, while the Virgin, overcome with grief, is +supported by St. John.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i121.jpg" width="700" height="590" alt="THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENTOMBMENT, FORMERLY IN ONE OF THE +CHAPELS OF THE SOUTHERN TRANSEPT (Cliché LL.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENTOMBMENT, FORMERLY IN ONE OF THE +CHAPELS OF THE SOUTHERN TRANSEPT (<i>Cliché LL.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>Facing this Burial Scene was the Altar-screen of the Three Baptisms, +the work of Nicolas Jacques and the gift of Jean Lespagnol in 1610. This +screen, which formed the background of the baptismal fonts, represented in +three bas-reliefs: The baptism of Clovis (<i>on the right</i>), the baptism of Jesus +by John the Baptist (<i>in the centre</i>), and the baptism of Constantine (<i>on the +left</i>).</p> + +<p>The railing round the baptismal fonts belongs to the second half of the +18th century, and was taken from the church of St. Pierre-le-Vieil.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i122.jpg" width="500" height="486" alt="SCULPTURED CONSOLES OF COLONNETTES IN THE CHOIR" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />SCULPTURED CONSOLES OF COLONNETTES IN THE CHOIR</span> +</div> + +<h4>The Choir of St. Remi Church</h4> + +<p>The Choir was rebuilt by Pierre de Celle. The plan is very like that of the +choir of the Cathedral, of which it is the prototype.</p> + +<p>As in the Cathedral, it intrudes upon the nave, of which it occupies the +three last bays. In the latter, the columns placed against the six piers were +removed. The groups of small columns which support the ribs of the vaulting +rest upon a corbel-table carried by three consoles (<i>photo above</i>), which in turn +rest on colonnettes with crocketed capitals. The central consoles are ornamented +with figures of angels and symbolic animals, while under the lateral +consoles are statuettes of prophets holding scrolls, on which their names are +inscribed in painted letters.</p> + +<p>Five circular radiating chapels open out on the vast ambulatory. The +plan of the latter, like that of Nôtre-Dame-de-Châlons, evokes all that is most +original in the Gothic architecture of Champagne. The bays with their +alternations of square-ogival and triangular vaulting do not correspond +with the breadth of the radiating chapels, which are connected to one another +by three arcades resting on light columns. In the lower nave, from the +curiously large number of points of support, it would seem that the builders +had doubts as to the strength of the pointed style and, by way of precaution, +greatly increased the number of points of support inside the church and of the +exterior buttresses. The tribunes rising above the arcades are surmounted +with a triforium lighted by high windows, which still retain their beautiful +early 18th century stained-glass. The somewhat stiff figures stand out on a +uniformly blue ground. In the upper part, apostles, evangelists, and the +sixteen greater prophets are grouped around a stately Virgin. In the lower<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +part, the principal archbishops of Rheims on thrones are seated round St. Remi +who occupies the place of honour below the Virgin. In the two last windows +are effigies of Archbishops Samson (<i>deceased in 1161</i>) and Henry of France, +during whose episcopate Pierre de Celle caused the apse to be built.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i123.jpg" width="500" height="593" alt="FRAGMENT OF PASCHAL CHANDELIER DESTROYED BY +THE BOMBARDMENTS OF 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">FRAGMENT OF PASCHAL CHANDELIER DESTROYED BY +THE BOMBARDMENTS OF 1914</span> +</div> + +<p>The choir is surrounded by a Renaissance railing which is out of harmony +with the general scheme. It was erected between 1656 and 1669, at the joint +expense of the widow of the famous barrister Omer Talon, the Town Council, +the Duke of Longueville, and the Grand Prior of St. Remi. The sculptor +François Jacques seems to have co-operated therewith.</p> + +<p>The great <i>crown of light</i> hanging at the entrance to the choir was an imitation +of the original crown, destroyed in 1793, and which was garnished with +ninety-six candles, symbolizing the ninety-six years of St. Remi's life (<i>see +p. <a href="#Page_108">108</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The 18th century high-altar of red marble which, like the cross and the +six chandeliers, came from the church of the Minims, was crushed beneath +the falling vaulting.</p> + +<p>At the time of the Revolution (1792) the chandelier (masterpiece of the +old Rheims metal-founders), which adorned the centre of the Sanctuary, +was broken and melted down, with the exception of a portion of one of the +feet. This fragment (<i>photo above</i>), preserved in the Archæological Museum, +was destroyed by the bombardment of 1914.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i124.jpg" width="600" height="654" alt="TOMB AND +RELIQUARY +OF ST. REMI" title="" /> +<span class="caption">TOMB AND +RELIQUARY +OF ST. REMI</span> +</div> + +<h4>The Tomb and Reliquary of St. Remi</h4> + +<p>The present tomb, erected in 1847, is only a memorial of the sumptuous +mausoleum, profusely decorated with gold medals, diamonds and sapphires, +which was destroyed at the time of the Revolution.</p> + +<p>It is a Renaissance chapel, ornamented with the statues of the original +tomb, which form by far the most interesting part of the monument. The +twelve Peers are represented in their coronation robes: the Archbishop, +Duke of Rheims, carries the Cross; the Archbishop, Duke of Laon, the sceptre; +the Bishop, Count of Beauvais, the royal mantle; the Bishop, Count of +Châlons, the ring; the Bishop, Count of Noyon, the girdle; the Duke +of Burgundy, the crown; the Duke of Aquitaine, the standard; the Duke of +Normandy, a second standard; the Count of Flanders, the sword; the Count +of Toulouse, the spurs; the Count of Champagne, the military standard of +the King.</p> + +<p>The Reliquary of St. Remi, which is in the mausoleum, dates from 1896. +It was bought by national subscription and presented to the church on the +occasion of the centenary of the baptism of Clovis. In the niches of the lower +part of the reliquary are statuettes of the twelve apostles. Higher up, in +the recesses of the long sides, enamels illustrating episodes in the life of St. Remi +are imbedded. On the two ends, two enamels represent the Battle of Tolbiac +and the Baptism of Clovis.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Leave the Church of St. Remi by the western doorway, which faces the Place +de l'Hôpital civil, cross the square, then turn to the right into the Rue Simon. +The entrance to the</i> Hôtel-Dieu Hospital <i>is on the right</i>.</p> + + +<h4>The Hôtel-Dieu</h4> + +<p>This hospital is installed in the buildings of the ancient Abbey of the +Benedictine monks of St. Remi who, for centuries, were the guardians of the +relics of the famous Bishop of Rheims.</p> + +<p>During the invasion, at the time of the Revolution, the Abbey was transformed +into a military hospital, but it was only in 1827 that it became officially +the <i>Hôtel-Dieu,</i> in place of the old Municipal Hospital (<i>see "Palais de Justice" +p. <a href="#Page_93">93</a></i>). The furnishings of the latter were then transferred to the Abbey +buildings, disaffected since the Restoration.</p> + +<p>Of the ancient abbey, where <i>Charles-le-Simple</i> and the <i>Duc Robert</i> were +proclaimed king, and where several archbishops were elected, only a few +vestiges remain. Damaged by the fires of 1098, 1481, and 1751, it was completely +destroyed by the great conflagration of January 15, 1774. The +present abbey, rebuilt by Duroche, the King's architect, was scarcely finished +when the Revolution broke out.</p> + +<p>Incendiary bombs dropped by German aeroplanes in August, 1916, +destroyed most of the buildings.</p> + +<p>The monumental façade which faces the Court of Honour is Louis XVI. +in style.</p> + +<p>The second court, that behind the main buildings, is bordered by a cloister +built by the Rheims architect, Nicolas Bonhomme, in the first part of the +18th century, in place of the 13th and 14th century cloister destroyed in 1707. +The buttresses of the side which abuts on the church of St. Remi, and those +of the opposite side, are 12th century.</p> + +<p>The marble fountain with bronze furnishings, in the centre of the court, +was formerly in the Place St. Nicaise. It was erected in 1750 from designs +by <i>Coustou</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i125.jpg" width="400" height="309" alt="THE CLOISTER AND FOUNTAIN OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />THE CLOISTER AND FOUNTAIN OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i126a.jpg" width="500" height="392" alt="THE GRAND STAIRCASE OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU +Through the windows is seen the North Front of St. Remi." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GRAND STAIRCASE OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU<br /> +<i>Through the windows is seen the North Front of St. Remi.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>At the back of the court, on the left</i>, is an exceedingly fine Louis XVI. +staircase with wrought-iron handrail (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p>The <b>Lapidary Museum</b>, which was formerly in the crypt of the archi-episcopal +chapel (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_65">65</a></i>), was installed under one of the galleries of the +cloister in 1896. Of the tombstones, storied floor-tiles, and various carvings +which it contains, the most remarkable is the <b>Tomb of Jovinus</b>.</p> + +<p>Consul in 367, Jovinus commanded the armies in Gaul, under the Emperor +Julian, and successfully resisted three attempts at invasion by the Alemanni. +As a Christian, he founded a basilica at Rheims.</p> + +<p>The white marble tomb with carvings is apparently Græco-Roman of +the 3rd century, and dates back before the time of Jovinus, who died in 370. +It is possible that Jovinus had the first occupant of the tomb ejected, or +that he bought an old sarcophagus and had his own portrait affixed to it.</p> + +<p>The chapel installed in the old library of the abbey contained some fine +Louis XVI. wood carvings (<i>see photo below of the ruins of the chapel</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i126b.jpg" width="500" height="383" alt="CHAPEL OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHAPEL OF THE HÔTEL-DIEU IN 1919</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i127a.jpg" width="400" height="426" alt="THE OLD +CHAPTER-HOUSE +OF THE +ABBEY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE OLD +CHAPTER-HOUSE +OF THE +ABBEY</span> +</div> + +<p>The <b>chapter-house</b> of the abbey, which served as a refectory, was rebuilt +about the end of the 12th century. With its pointed arches, it belonged to +the early period of Gothic architecture. The most remarkable portion was +the vestibule facing the cloister. The decoration of the lateral arcades of +the vestibule included Roman capitals, nearly all of which are intact (<i>photo +below</i>), and which are of great value from the standpoint of the history of +art and costumes. In the refectory were the <i>Godard</i> tables made out of a +single branch of a gigantic oak-tree from the forest of St. Basle. They were +given to the old <i>Hôtel-Dieu</i> by Canon Godard, whose name is incrusted in +lead in the wood, as a rebus: <i>Go</i>, followed by the figure of a dart (French: +<i>dard</i>).</p> + +<p>Near the chapter-house, a round-arched chamber was all that remained +of the early portion of the abbey.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i127b.jpg" width="500" height="343" alt="ROMAN CAPITALS IN THE VESTIBULE OF THE +CHAPTER-HOUSE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ROMAN CAPITALS IN THE VESTIBULE OF THE +CHAPTER-HOUSE</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i128.jpg" width="400" height="424" alt="THE GRAND +STAIRCASE +OF THE +HÔPITAL +GÉNÉRAL" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GRAND +STAIRCASE +OF THE +HÔPITAL +GÉNÉRAL</span> +</div> + +<p><i>After visiting the Hôtel-Dieu, follow the Rue Simon, which skirts the Ecole +de Médecine, then turn to the right into the Rue St. Remi. At the end of same, +take the Rue Gambetta on the left, and follow it as far as the</i> <b>Hôpital Général</b> +<i>on the right.</i></p> + + +<h4>The Hôpital Général</h4> + +<p>This is the old Order-House of the Jesuits, built at the beginning of the +17th century. The <b>refectory</b> is ornamented with rich woodwork and paintings, +by the Rheims artist Hélart. Of greater interest is the <i>library</i>, +situated under the gables, and which is reached by a fine staircase. The +room is adorned with a profusion of wood-carvings and mouldings. Exceedingly +fine consoles carry the ceiling, whose carved panels are profusely +ornamented with crowns, polygons, florets and heads of angels. The oaken +pilasters which separate the bookshelves are decorated with a variety of +leaves and flowers. In spite of this wealth of ornament, the general effect is +harmonious. The recesses in the woodwork, opposite the dummy dormer-windows, +were for reading.</p> + +<p>Ancient vines cover the walls of the chapel, near the entrance to the +<i>hôpital</i>.</p> + +<p><i>At the side of the Hôpital Général stands the</i> <b>Church of St. Maurice</b>.</p> + +<p>This church was entirely rebuilt by the Jesuits after the destruction of the +ancient edifice, which was one of the oldest in Rheims. Here may be seen +the <i>Eagle Reading-Desk</i>, a fine piece of 17th century wood-carving; two +<i>Louis XIV. portable iron desks</i> and the <i>paschal chandelier</i> of carved wood; +the <i>17th century confessionals</i> of the lateral chapels, and in the sacristy +remarkable <i>Louis XIII., hand-embroidered guipures</i> of open-work designs, +after the style of the models by the Rheims artist, Georges Baussonnet.</p> + +<p><i>Return to the Place du Parvis, in front of the Cathedral, via the Rue Gambetta +and its continuation, the Rue Chanzy.</i></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p> +<h2>A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS +AROUND RHEIMS</h2> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 900px;"> +<img src="images/i129.png" width="900" height="969" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>A thorough visit can be made in two days.</p> + +<p>The Itinerary for each day is divided into two parts, to allow tourists to +return to Rheims for lunch.</p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right"><b>First Day</b></td><td align="left">{ Morning</td><td align="left">pp. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>-<a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">{ Afternoon </td><td align="left">pp. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>-<a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><b>Second Day</b></td><td align="left">{ Morning</td><td align="left">pp. <a href="#Page_160">160</a>-<a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left">{ Afternoon</td><td align="left">pp. <a href="#Page_166">166</a>-<a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p> +<h2>FIRST DAY<br />MORNING</h2> + +<h3>THE MOUNTAIN OF RHEIMS</h3> + +<h6>(<i>See the complete Itineraries on p. <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, and the summary of the war +operations on p. <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</i>)</h6> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 900px;"> +<img src="images/i130.png" width="900" height="737" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>This part of the Itinerary will take the tourist to the most important +points of the last German offensive of 1918, which aimed at the capture of +Rheims.</p> + +<p><i>Starting from the Place du Parvis Nôtre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier, +opposite the Cathedral, turn to the right into the Rue Chanzy, follow same as far +as the Rue de Vesle, take the latter on the left, and follow it to the end.</i></p> + +<p><i>After the</i> <b>Porte de Paris</b> <i>(see p. <a href="#Page_68">68</a>) the Rue de Vesle becomes the Avenue +de Paris. Take same, but after passing under the railway bridge, turn to the +left into the Avenue d'Epernay (R. N. 51, see plan, p. <a href="#Page_121">121</a>).</i></p> + +<p><i>Take the second street on the right (Rue de Bezannes), which passes in front +of the</i> <b>Western Cemetery</b>, devastated by the bombardments.</p> + +<p>The road crosses numerous lines of trenches and boyaux, which defended +the immediate approaches to Rheims.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Before reaching Bezannes village, leave on the right, two roads which skirt +a large estate enclosed with railings, go straight on to the ruined railway-station +of Bezannes, then turn to the right.</i></p> + + +<h4>Bezannes</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>Cross the first group of half-ruined houses, then, on reaching a second group, +which forms the main part of the village, turn to the left into the first street +encountered, where the</i> partially destroyed church <i>stands</i>.</p> + +<p>The round-vaulted apse, tower, nave and aisles all belong to the +Romanesque period. The Gothic doorway is 13th, and the spire of the +belfry 15th century.</p> + +<p>The square tower greatly resembles the old belfry on the doorway of +St. Remi Church in Rheims, and, like the latter, dates apparently from the +middle of the 11th century.</p> + +<p>The Gothic doorway of the west front is set up against a Romanesque +wall. The gable has been rebuilt in modern times. Vestiges of an ancient +portal are to be found on each side of the doorway. The key-stones of the +arch above the tympanum, like those of the upper arching, are numbered in +Roman figures, a peculiarity rarely to be found.</p> + +<p>Facing the doorway of the church, on the left of the great entrance-door +to a court, is a niche containing a 16th century stone <b>statue</b> representing a +bishop wearing a chasuble.</p> + +<p>In the court of the same house, over the door of the main structure, on +the right, in an arched Renaissance niche, hollowed out and ornamented +with marble incrustations, is the <b>statue</b> of a canon with folded hands +kneeling at the foot of a crucifixion.</p> + +<p>A shell-splinter took off the +head of the bishop's statue, but +the other group is intact.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i131.jpg" width="300" height="428" alt="CHURCH OF BEZANNES IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHURCH OF BEZANNES IN 1914</span> +</div> + +<p>Those interested in things pre-historic, +may visit the <b>Pistat +Collection</b> at Bezannes, which contains +a great number of interesting +specimens belonging to the stone +and neolithic ages, and to the +Gallic and Roman periods of the +region.</p> + +<p>Of the old castles of Bezannes, +nothing of interest remains.</p> + +<p>On September 11, 1914, during +the Battle of the Marne, the +German Staff took up their quarters +in the house of M. Poullot. +On the 12th, the battle attained +the vicinity of the village.</p> + +<p><i>Skirt the church, and at the +cross-roads at the end of the village, +keep straight on, past the cemetery on +the right.</i></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>The road climbs a small hill lined with trenches, then descends to the village of</i> +<b>Les Mesneux</b>.</p> + +<p><i>At the entrance to this village (which is of no particular interest) turn to +the right, and at the fork about fifty yards farther on, to the left, leaving the +unmetalled road on the right.</i></p> + +<p><i>About half-a-mile from Les Mesneux and shortly before reaching the crossing +with the road to Rheims (G. C. 6)</i>, there is a small wood at the place called +<b>Le Champ Clairon</b>. It was from here that German batteries under Colonel +von Roeder fired on Rheims on September 4, 1914, in spite of the protestations +of the Mayor of Les Mesneux, who assured the German commander +that the French troops had completely evacuated the town.</p> + +<p><i>At the crossing with G. C. 6, keep straight on to Ormes</i>, whose church, at the +entrance to the village, was almost entirely destroyed.</p> + + +<h4>Ormes</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>This village, in addition to numerous subterranean passages and chambers, +possesses the interesting 12th century <b>Church St. Remi</b> (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p>Its circular apse with cornice resting on corbels is barrel-vaulted. Colonnettes +in the great bays of the steeple (in ruins) carry carved 12th century +capitals.</p> + +<p>The pointed vaulting of the southern transept is 12th century, and the +ogival groining rests on Norman capitals. The doorway of the western +façade dates from the second half of the 12th century, and although its porch +was destroyed in 1853 it is still remarkable.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i132.jpg" width="350" height="507" alt="THE CHURCH OF ORMES" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHURCH OF ORMES</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i133a.jpg" width="500" height="410" alt="THE INSIDE OF ORMES CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE INSIDE OF ORMES CHURCH</span> +</div> + +<p>It comprises three tierce-pointed arcades surmounted by a line of billet-moulding. +The lateral arcades are blind, while the higher central arcading +around the door is surmounted with three receding <i>tori</i> resting on crocketed +foliate capitals. The lateral arcades have similar capitals but only one +<i>torus</i>.</p> + +<p>Inside the church are interesting <b>16th century statues</b>: <i>St. Barbara</i> +in stone and <i>St. Catharine</i>, painted and decorated, face the altar; <i>St. Remi</i> +in stone, remarkable for its costume and decoration, stands above the altar +of the northern chapel; a wooden <i>Virgin</i> surmounts the inner doorway.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i133b.jpg" width="400" height="560" alt="ALTAR-SCREEN OF THE CHOIR" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALTAR-SCREEN OF THE CHOIR</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i134.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="THE ROAD FROM RHEIMS TO JOUY, NEAR THE +LATTER VILLAGE +Note the camouflaging." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROAD FROM RHEIMS TO JOUY, NEAR THE +LATTER VILLAGE<br /> +<i>Note the camouflaging.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>Return by the same road to the crossing with the road to Rheims (G. C. 6), +where, opposite the</i> <b>Café du Joyeux Laboureur</b>, <i>turn to the right.</i></p> + +<p>The road rises towards the Mountain of Rheims. Of the <i>camouflaging</i> +seen in above photograph, only traces remain.</p> + +<p><i>Shortly after, the tourist passes between the villages of</i> <b>Jouy</b> <i>and</i> <b>Pargny</b>, +<i>whose houses border the road.</i> Jouy (<i>on the left</i>) and Pargny (<i>on the right</i>) were +bombarded by the Germans in June, 1915.</p> + +<p>The <b>Church of Jouy</b>, visible from the road to Rheims, was almost +entirely destroyed.</p> + +<p><i>To visit the church of Pargny, turn to the right opposite the grocery stores, +No. 262, then take the second street on the left</i> (near a fine mansion partly in +ruins).</p> + +<p><i>About 100 yards farther on is</i> the church, the belfry of which was destroyed. +<i>Return to the crossing with the main road to Rheims, where turn to the right.</i></p> + +<p>The road continues to climb the northern slopes of the Mountain of Rheims. +On a hill to the left, the <b>Chapel of St. Lié</b> dominates the surrounding plain. +There is a very fine view of Rheims from here.</p> + +<p><i>The top of the rise is reached soon afterwards. Descend the southern slopes, +passing between the sidings of an</i> important material and ammunition depot +situated on the reverse side of the mountain out of sight of the enemy's +observation-posts. <i>On reaching the crossing half-way down the hill, leave on +the left the two roads leading respectively to</i> <b>Ville Dommange</b> <i>and</i> <b>Courmas</b>.</p> + +<p><i>A short distance further on, after passing the road to Onrézy (on the left), +take the following narrow road on the left</i>, which passes between clumps of trees +that were cut to pieces by shell-fire.</p> + +<p><i>A little further on, on the right, is a</i> cemetery containing the graves of some +two hundred French, British and Italian soldiers.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the right after the cemetery.</i> The road crosses a fine avenue bordered +with shell-torn poplar trees, leading to the <b>Castle of Commetreuil</b> <i>on the +left</i>. <i>The village of</i> <b>Bouilly</b> is reached soon afterwards.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i135a.jpg" width="500" height="394" alt="THE END OF BOUILLY VILLAGE +(going towards St. Euphraise)." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE END OF BOUILLY VILLAGE<br /> +(<i>going towards St. Euphraise</i>).</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Bouilly—St. Euphraise—Clairizet</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_131">131</a>-<a href="#Page_132">132</a>, and Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>Bouilly was burnt by the Germans on September 12, 1914, under the +pretext that the inhabitants had caused the death of two <i>Uhlans</i> killed the +day before by French <i>Chasseurs</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the right opposite the Church of Bouilly.</i> There is a small cemetery +on the right, just outside the village, containing several German graves.</p> + +<p><i>On reaching G.C. 6, leading to Rheims, turn to the right. Take the first +road on the left</i>, which passes through a small devastated wood, where batteries +of guns were posted. <i>Cross a small stream, and immediately afterwards the +railway, then turn to the left into the village of</i> <b>St. Euphraise</b>.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the right in the village, opposite the church.</i> The road rises steeply +to the hamlet of <b>Clairizet</b>, which was almost entirely destroyed. <i>Pass by +a</i> "Calvary," composed of four large trees surrounding a cross, <i>then turn to +the left into a small narrow street</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i135b.jpg" width="500" height="398" alt="RUINED CHURCH OF ST. EUPHRAISE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINED CHURCH OF ST. EUPHRAISE</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i136a.jpg" width="600" height="439" alt="COULOMMES VILLAGE SEEN FROM THE CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">COULOMMES VILLAGE SEEN FROM THE CHURCH</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Coulommes-la-Montagne—Vrigny</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>The road rises, then descends to</i> <b>Coulommes-la-Montagne</b>. <i>Turn to the +right at the entrance to the village.</i> The church, in ruins, is on the left.</p> + +<p><i>At the cross-roads just outside the village take G.C. 26 on the left. At +first, the road dips rather abruptly, then rises to</i> <b>Vrigny</b>.</p> + +<p>The Church of Vrigny, entirely in ruins, is on the right at the entrance to +the village. <i>Pass the Town Hall, leaving a public washing-place on the left, +then turn to the right.</i></p> + +<p><i>On leaving the village, take G.C. 26 on the left to the village of</i> <b>Gueux</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i136b.jpg" width="600" height="461" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT VRIGNY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT VRIGNY</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i137a.jpg" width="700" height="489" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF GUEUX IN 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF GUEUX IN 1918</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Gueux</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_131">131</a>-<a href="#Page_132">132</a> and Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>Gueux is a small old-world village, with ancient houses, castle and church.</p> + +<p>At the entrance to the village, a large square with trees, cut to pieces and +devastated by the bombardment.</p> + +<p><i>From the square, go to the</i> <b>Church</b> <i>on the right</i>, now a heap of ruins. Seen +through the trees from the square it forms a pitiful sight.</p> + +<p>In the chapel, on the left of the main entrance, there was a fine piece of +Renaissance carving.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i137b.jpg" width="400" height="342" alt="GUEUX CHURCH IN 1917 +Cardinal Luçon coming out of the Church (see above.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />GUEUX CHURCH IN 1917<br /> +<i>Cardinal Luçon coming out of the Church (see above).</i></span> +</div> + +<p>It was to Gueux that the Archbishop of Rheims, Mgr. Luçon, betook +himself after the bombardments of April, 1917. The village cemetery contains +many soldiers' graves. The Cardinal-Archbishop of Rheims presided at +a pathetic ceremony held during the War in honour of the dead.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> +<img src="images/i138a.jpg" width="500" height="373" alt="THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF GUEUX" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF GUEUX</span> +</div> + +<p><i>To visit the</i> <b>Castle</b>, <i>cross the square and take a small street on the left, which +leads to the road to Rosnay (G.C. 27)</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the left, and fifty yards further on take on foot the narrow street on +the left, which leads to the old castle.</i></p> + +<p>This ancient castle, where the Kings of France, on their way to Rheims to +be consecrated, used to dine, suffered severely from the bombardments. +Outwardly it has, however, retained its general appearance (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Return to the car, and go straight on to the fork in the roads to Rosnay and +Prémecy. Facing the fork is the entrance</i> to the park and <b>modern Castle of +Gueux</b>, belonging to the Roederer family, which was completely destroyed +(<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Turn the car round at the above-mentioned fork and continue straight along +G.C. 27.</i></p> + +<p><i>Beyond the village of Gueux</i> the road crosses numerous lines of trenches. +Many shelters and ammunition depots can still be seen along the road. <i>The +National Road from Rheims to Soissons (N. 31) is reached soon afterwards. +Near the cross-ways are the</i> ruins of an inn.</p> + +<p><i>At this crossing, leave the National Road on the left and take the narrow road +on the right which leads to</i> <b>Thillois</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i138b.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="THE MODERN CASTLE OF GUEUX" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MODERN CASTLE OF GUEUX</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i139.jpg" width="500" height="408" alt="CROSSING OF THE THILLOIS AND RHEIMS ROADS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CROSSING OF THE THILLOIS AND RHEIMS ROADS</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Thillois</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>The <b>Church of Thillois</b> (late 12th century), now a heap of ruins, stood +at the entrance to the village.</p> + +<p>In 1914 it was still intact in all its vital parts. Its vaulting was pointed, +with groining resting on columns, whose capitals were either Romanesque +or Gothic. The nave had a timber roof.</p> + +<p>The high-altar screen was a fine piece of sculptured stone-work of late +16th or early 17th century. In a niche above the altar, the Virgin, sitting on +an X-shaped seat, was holding Jesus, clothed in a tunic and standing on her +knee.</p> + +<p><i>Leaving the church behind on the right, turn to the left, to reach the National +Road. On the right is a</i> small 18th century castle, behind a clump of fine stately +trees, known as the <i>Bosquet de Thillois</i>. It was destroyed by shells.</p> + +<p><i>Return to the National Road, turn to the right at the cross-roads, leaving on +the left the road to Champigny, then return direct to Rheims, entering the city by +the Avenue and Porte de Paris.</i></p> + + +<h4>The Mountain of Rheims Battles</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See p. <a href="#Page_14">14</a> and p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>The fighting known as the <i>Battles of the Mountain of Rheims</i> took place in +1918 over the whole of the area described above, <i>i.e.</i> from Bouilly to Thillois, +<i>via</i> St. Euphraise, Coulommes, Vrigny and Gueux (<i>see the Michelin Illustrated +Guide: The Second Battle of the Marne</i>).</p> + +<p>The Mountain of Rheims prolongs the region of Tardenois to the east. +It is an important military position between the Vesle and the Marne, as it +dominates the plain of Champagne. The higher part of it is finely wooded, +while on the lower slopes and eastern and southern edges are the famous +Champagne vineyards (<i>see Verzenay, pp. <a href="#Page_171">171</a>-<a href="#Page_172">172</a></i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> +<img src="images/i140.png" width="700" height="634" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>During the year 1918 the Germans made tremendous efforts to carry this +position, the loss of which would have meant the fall of Rheims, leaving +Epernay and Châlons-sur-Marne unprotected.</p> + +<p>Although held to the east of Mountain, they obtained important successes +on the west, where they reached the Marne, while in May they occupied the +Woods of Courton and Le Roi. In July they crossed the Marne and advanced +as far as Montvoisin, on the road to Epernay. Very fierce fighting took place, +especially to the north-west of the Mountain at <b>Bouilly</b>, <b>Bligny</b>, +<b>St. Euphraise</b> and <b>Vrigny</b>. These positions, and Hill 240 to the west of +Vrigny, were several times lost and recaptured by the Allied troops under +General Berthelot, French, Italian and British, who fought there side by side.</p> + +<p>Vrigny was taken by the Germans on May 30, but retaken by the Allies +on June 1 at the point of the bayonet. The same evening, four German +regiments, after progressing slightly in the direction of Hill 240, were first +checked, then driven back after bitter hand-to-hand fighting.</p> + +<p>On June 9, the Germans were repulsed around Vrigny, after having sustained +severe losses. On the 23rd, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by Italian +troops, reaching the summit, but were shortly afterwards driven back. On +the 29th, they sustained a like check at the same place.</p> + +<p>In July they advanced their lines slightly towards Marfaux, Pourcy and +Cuchery, but were unable to hold the captured ground. On the 18th, the +Italians advanced in the region of Bouilly. On the 19th, Franco-British +troops progressed towards St. Euphraise. On the 21st, the Allies carried +Bouilly and St. Euphraise. On the 24th and 25th, in spite of desperate +repeated efforts, the Germans were unable to hold Hill 240 which they had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +temporarily captured. On August 1 further enemy efforts to carry the +Bligny uplands failed.</p> + +<p>The region of Gueux—Thillois—Champigny was terribly ravaged by +the war.</p> + +<p>On September 11th, 1914, the French 5th Division, under General Mangin, +drove the enemy from these positions, which remained in the French lines +until May 30, 1918. Occupied by the Germans on May 31, after fierce +fighting, they were completely devastated by artillery fire. Retaken by the +French, then lost again in July, Thillois was finally recaptured on August 2, +at the same time as Gueux.</p> + +<p>On August 4, after having reached the Vesle at several points east of +Fismes, French troops engaged a vigorous battle between Muizon and +Champigny, and some of them succeeded in crossing the river the same day.</p> + + +<h4>Champagne Wine</h4> + +<p>Wine-growing has always been a favourite industry in this part of France. +The vineyards extend over the Rheims hills and along the valley of the Marne. +In the hilly country around Rheims there are two distinct growths of wine: +the <i>Montagne</i> proper, with its famous <i>Verzy</i>, <i>Verzenay</i>, <i>Mailly</i>, <i>Ludes</i>, <i>Rilly</i> +and <i>Villers</i> "crus," and the <i>Petite Montagne</i> with its secondary "crus" of +the <i>Tardenois Valley</i>, <i>Hermonville Hills</i>, <i>St. Thierry</i>, <i>Nogent l'Abbesse</i> and +<i>Cernay-les-Reims</i>. The <i>Montagne</i> produces more especially black grapes for +white wines.</p> + +<p>Champagne wines were famous as far back as the 16th and 17th centuries. +Henri IV. had a marked preference for the wines of <i>Ay</i>. The magnitude of +the cellars still to be seen in the 16th and 17th century houses testifies to the +importance of a trade, whose main outlets were Paris, Flanders, Belgium and +Germany.</p> + +<p>The Champagne wines of that period were red, and rivals of the famous +Burgundy wines.</p> + +<p>The vogue of Champagne wines as understood to-day dates back to the +end of the 17th century. It was Dom Pérignon, cellarer of the Abbey of +Hautevillers, near Epernay, who, if not actually the inventor of sparkling +wines, first undertook to perfect them by blending the "crus" and preparing +them with greater care.</p> + +<p>In the last years of the reign of Louis XIV., and still more so under the +Regency, the use of Champagne at Court gained ground, especially at the +tables of the <i>Duc de Vendôme</i> and the <i>Marquis de Sillery</i>.</p> + +<p>At that time Champagne was merely a "creamy" wine, <i>i.e.</i> semi-sparkling. +The low breaking strain of the glass of those days would not +have allowed of the higher pressure (six atmospheres) of the present-day +wine. The discovery of the chemist François, who in 1836 at Châlons invented +a special "densimeter," made it possible to calculate the amount of carbonic +acid gas contained in the must, and to proportion the expansive force of the +wine to the strength of the bottles, thus reducing losses by breakage, which +for long had been very serious.</p> + +<p>From the 19th century onwards, the production of Champagne wine has +grown unceasingly. The number of bottles of sparkling Champagne placed +on the market for sale in France and abroad rose from 19,145,481 (of which +16,705,719 went abroad) between April, 1875, and April, 1876, to 33,171,395 +(of which 23,056,847 went abroad) between April, 1906 and April, 1907. During +the first ten months of 1915, the exports of Champagne and sparkling wines +were 630,140 wine-quarts, as against 1,092,660 wine quarts in 1914.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p> +<h2>FIRST DAY<br />AFTERNOON</h2> + +<h3>ST. THIERRY HEIGHTS—LE GODAT—THE GLASS-WORKS OF LOIVRE—BRIMONT—THE +"CAVALIERS DE COURCY"</h3> + +<h6>(<i>See complete Itineraries, p. <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, and summary of the military operations, +pp. <a href="#Page_147">147</a> and <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i142.png" width="600" height="813" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span><i>Starting from the Place du Parvis-Nôtre-Dame, follow the morning's Itinerary +(p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>) as far as the railway bridge, then continue straight along the Avenue +de Paris (N. 31). Before leaving Rheims the tourist can, if desired, visit</i> +<b>Haubette Park</b>. <i>In this case, turn to the left, opposite No. 10, Avenue +de Paris, into the Rue Flin des Oliviers. The entrance to</i> Haubette Park +(an annex of the Calmette Dispensary) <i>stands at the beginning of this street, on +the right</i>.</p> + +<p>Napoleon I. bivouacked in this park while his troops attacked Rheims in +1814. A monument and a small museum commemorate the event. At the +end of 1914 Haubette Park was a favourite recreation ground and refuge +for the inhabitants of the city during the bombardments.</p> + +<p><i>Return to the junction of N. 31 (which leads to Fismes) with G. C. 6 (the road +to Ville-en-Tardenois). Take N. 31 on the right. About 1 km. from the fork take +the first road on the right.</i></p> + +<p><i>On reaching</i> <b>Tinqueux</b> <i>turn to the left at the entrance to the village, and +follow the main road</i>.</p> + + +<h4>Tinqueux—Mont St. Pierre</h4> + +<p>The church of Tinqueux (St. Peter's) was entirely destroyed. It contained, +on the left side of the nave, a remarkable 16th century painting on wood, +representing the <i>Adoration of the Shepherds</i>, with a frame of the same +period.</p> + +<p><i>Near the church, between the Vesle and the main street of the village</i>, stood an +old baronial mansion, in front of which was a building with turreted façade +known as the <b>Maison de la Salle</b>. Inside the buildings which, in later +years, served as a farm, there was a curious old wooden staircase with railed +balustrade. The whole was destroyed by the shells.</p> + +<p>In September, 1914, at the beginning of the bombardment of Rheims, +many of the people took refuge at Tinqueux.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i143.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="THE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VILLAGE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VILLAGE</span> +</div> + +<p><i>At the end of the main street of the village, opposite a kind of observation-post +with ladder in a tree, turn to the right. The road passes at the foot of</i> <b>Mont St. +Pierre</b>, whose village and church entirely disappeared in the 17th century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +It was to replace the church of Mont St. Pierre that the church of St. Pierre +de Tinqueux was built at the end of the 17th century.</p> + +<p><i>The road turns abruptly and nears the Vesle. Turn to the right and cross the +river to reach</i> <b>St. Brice</b>.</p> + + +<h4>St. Brice—Champigny—Merfy</h4> + +<h6>(<i>Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>Turn to the right at the entrance to the village and take the first street on the +right, which leads to the church.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i144.jpg" width="400" height="499" alt="THE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPIGNY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPIGNY</span> +</div> + +<p>The Church of St. Brice was almost entirely destroyed. In style, it is +Romanesque, with Renaissance doorway and aisles. The door of the west +front contains interesting carvings—unhappily much mutilated.</p> + +<p><i>Return by the same way to the cross-roads in front of the bridge over the Vesle, +turn to the right, then, about 150 yards further on, to the left. Continue straight +ahead, cross the railway (l.c.) and follow the railway on the left.</i></p> + +<p><i>About half a mile further on an avenue on the right leads to the</i> <b>Château +de la Malle</b>. Both the castle and grounds were badly damaged by the +bombardment.</p> + +<p>Standing in the park with magnificent avenues of beech-trees, the castle +is one of the most ancient manors in the vicinity of Rheims. It was rebuilt +in one storey at the beginning of the 14th century on the old foundations. +The decoration of the interior (Louis XVI.) is interesting. The drawing-room +has retained its old wainscoting and paintings. A carved shield bearing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +the arms of the Cauchon family, a member of which, the Bishop of Beauvais, +sided with the English and the Duke of Burgundy against the Dauphin of +France and Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years' War, is still to be seen +over a door of one of the out-buildings.</p> + +<p><i>Return by the same road to the Vesle. Cross the river and follow it (as per +Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>), to the village of Champigny.</i></p> + +<p><i>Cross straight through the village by the main street, at the end of which +stands the church in a narrow by-street near the entrance to a park (photo, +p. <a href="#Page_136">136</a>).</i></p> + +<p>The little church of St. Theodule is 12th century, except the wooden belfry, +which was modern. The belfry and roof were destroyed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i145.jpg" width="500" height="443" alt="MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE GERMANS INTO +A BLOCKHOUSE +General Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE GERMANS INTO +A BLOCKHOUSE<br /> +<i>General Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><i>On leaving the village, go straight ahead. The road (G.C. 75) follows the +railway on the left. Cross the railway (l.c.). The road passes along the marshy +valley of the Vesle, then rises towards the</i> St. Thierry Heights.</p> + +<p><i>At the cross-roads of</i> the hamlet of Mâco, <i>keep straight on along G.C. 26</i>. +The road runs between two fairly high embankments containing numerous +shelters. Slightly before entering the village of <b>Merfy</b> is a cemetery containing +graves of French, British and German soldiers.</p> + +<p><i>At the entrance to the same village, on the right, stands</i> a castle, severely +damaged, which, early in September, 1914, served as headquarters to General +Foch (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p><i>A little farther</i> is the church, almost entirely destroyed.</p> + +<p><i>At the church, turn to the right and follow the main street</i>, which is lined with +houses in ruins.</p> + +<p><i>On leaving Merfy, cross the railway (l.c.). The village of</i> <b>St. Thierry</b> <i>is +reached shortly afterwards.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +<img src="images/i146a.jpg" width="500" height="408" alt="ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGE +The sign and camouflaging are German." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGE<br /> +<i>The sign and camouflaging are German.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i146b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1914</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i146c.jpg" width="500" height="384" alt="ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1919</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i147.jpg" width="500" height="639" alt="ST. THIERRY CHURCH +See other photos, p. 140." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. THIERRY CHURCH<br /> +(<i>See other photos, p. <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</i>)</span> +</div> + + +<h4>St. Thierry</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, summary of the Military Operations, p. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>This village was frequently bombarded by the Germans from 1914 to +1918. <i>It is crossed by a narrow, winding street containing several sharp turnings. +Shortly before the end of the village, the street widens abruptly. About a hundred +yards further on is the church, while on the right a monumental door gives access</i> +to the <b>Château of St. Thierry</b> (<i>photos, p. <a href="#Page_138">138</a></i>).</p> + +<p>This castle was built in 1777 by Mgr. de Talleyrand-Périgord, Archbishop +of Rheims. It replaced the ancient abbey founded in the 6th century by +St. Thierry, a disciple of St. Remi. Remains of the 12th century chapter-house +ogives, colonnettes and capitals, as well as an old chimney-piece, +have been rebuilt into the kitchens. The spacious Louis XVI. drawing-room +and the dining-room were likewise remarkable.</p> + +<p>The church (<i>see photos above and on p. <a href="#Page_140">140</a></i>) possessed certain remarkable +features, <i>e.g.</i> the porch, nave and organ-loft. The 12th century porch had a +17th century pent-house roof.</p> + +<p>Inside the church were Gothic stalls, and a 16th century bas-relief depicting +<i>The Martyrdom of St. Quentin</i>.</p> + +<p>The church is now in ruins.</p> + +<p><i>Opposite the castle gate turn to the left into G.C. 26.</i></p> + +<p>In the embankments along the road are numerous shelters, posts of commandment, +ammunition depots, etc.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +<img src="images/i148a.jpg" width="500" height="283" alt="ST. THIERRY +CHURCH +(see p. 139)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ST. THIERRY +CHURCH<br /> +(<i>see p. <a href="#Page_139">139</a></i>)</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i148b.jpg" width="500" height="307" alt="RUINED PORTAL +OF ST. THIERRY +CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINED PORTAL +OF ST. THIERRY +CHURCH</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i148c.jpg" width="500" height="299" alt="RUINS +OF CHOIR, +ST. THIERRY +CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS +OF CHOIR, +ST. THIERRY +CHURCH</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i149a.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="RUINS OF +THIL CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF +THIL CHURCH</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Thil—Villers-Franqueux</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>On reaching Thil, turn to the left at the entrance to the village. Go straight +through.</i></p> + +<p>The church, entirely in ruins, <i>stands at the end of the village, on a small +eminence to the right</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Half-way through the village, on the left, is a road which leads to the St. +Thierry Fort, via the village of Pouillon.</i></p> + +<p>The road from Thil to Cormicy was the starting-point of the communicating +trenches which led to the first lines along the National Road No. <b>44</b> and +along the canal from the Aisne to the Marne, during the long stabilisation +period of the Berry-au-Bac—Rheims front. All along the road can still be +seen, practically intact, the military works which were in the immediate +rear of the front lines, viz., posts of commandment, depots, shelters, etc. +At the present time, close to the destroyed villages, these shelters are being +used by the people as habitations.</p> + +<p><i>Beyond Thil, the road passes between two embankments.</i> <b>Villers-Franqueux</b> +<i>is soon reached</i>. The ruined village and church <i>are somewhat to the +right</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i149b.jpg" width="500" height="276" alt="RUINS OF +VILLERS-FRANQUEUX" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF +VILLERS-FRANQUEUX</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i150.jpg" width="450" height="452" alt="RUINED +CHURCH OF +HERMONVILLE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINED +CHURCH OF +HERMONVILLE</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Hermonville</h4> + +<p><i>Follow the rails, straight ahead, to</i> Hermonville.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the left, at the entrance to the village, into the large square, on the +opposite side of which stands the</i> <b>Town Hall</b>, partially destroyed. The +<b>Church</b> <i>is on the right</i>.</p> + +<p>This remarkable church is 12th century. The pointed vaulting of the +nave was raised in 1870, but this had been provided for in the original plans. +At the intersection of the transept the pointed vaulting is lower. The capitals +with their finely carved palm-leaves appear to be rather more recent than +those of the nave, and extend frieze-like round the pillars. The bays of the +transept-arms and of the two square eastern chapels are round-arched and +surmounted with a quatrefoil—an arrangement frequently met with in the +vicinity of Rheims.</p> + +<p>The outer porch, like that of Cauroy-les-Hermonville and St. Thierry, +is a 12th century addition. The depressed arch of the entrance is 17th +century.</p> + +<p>The square tower at the corner of the nave and south transept has cubic +capitals in the twin bays of the second storey.</p> + +<p>The ancient <b>cemetery</b>, which used to surround the church, is bordered +by old houses. Entrance was gained by a little gate facing the porch, in +which are incrusted fragments of a 15th century altar-screen representing a +horseman and a group of persons.</p> + +<p>The village was frequently bombarded by the Germans after the Battle +of the Marne. In 1916 several inhabitants were killed by shells.</p> + +<p><i>Leave the church on the right, and follow the Rue Sébastopol, at the end of +which is an abrupt turning to the left. The road skirts a large house and garden +surrounded by a wall. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue +de Sommerville. On leaving the village, turn to the left, then go straight on to</i> +<b>Cauroy-les-Hermonville</b>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i151a.jpg" width="500" height="349" alt="CAUROY +CHURCH +IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAUROY +CHURCH +IN 1914</span> +</div> + + +<h4>Cauroy-les-Hermonville</h4> + +<p><i>Turn to the right at the entrance to the village, then into the first street on the +left, where stands the</i> half-destroyed <b>Church of Nôtre-Dame</b>.</p> + +<p>This Church (<i>historical monument</i>) has an original 12th century porch, +which was mutilated by the bombardments.</p> + +<p>Romanesque in style, it stands out from the remainder of the building +and extends over the whole breadth of the west front. Its tile-covered roof +rests on a timber-work frame, whose beams appear to be 16th century. Two +round-arched openings in the ends of the porch serve as entrances. The +front is pierced with a number of round arcades. The central door giving +access to the church is of a later date (16th or 17th century). The capitals +of the arcadings are 12th century. Their curious decoration represents +figures of men, animals, birds, scrolls, etc.</p> + +<p>The ruined tower and nave were likewise 12th century. The side-chapels, +transept-crossing and choir were rebuilt in the 16th century.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i151b.jpg" width="500" height="317" alt="CAUROY +CHURCH +IN 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CAUROY +CHURCH +IN 1918</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i152.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="STREET IN CAUROY VILLAGE +(Seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy, +take this street opposite the Church.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">STREET IN CAUROY VILLAGE<br /> +(<i>Seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy, +take this street opposite the Church.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>In the interior of the church, the wooden altar-screen over the high-altar +dated from 1616. The painting which decorated its central panel, and the +side woodwork of the choir were removed in 1888. The altar-screen (1547) +of the southern side-chapel was composed of an assemblage of stone statues +representing <i>The Virgin carrying Jesus, St. Roch, a pilgrim</i>, and <i>St. Stephen, +a deacon, with the donor kneeling at his feet</i>.</p> + +<p>Under several of the houses in the village are subterranean passages, the +most noteworthy being that under the old presbytery on the left of the +church, to which access is gained by a stair of fifty-one steps.</p> + +<p><i>Leave the village of Cauroy by the street (photo, p. <a href="#Page_145">145</a>) which opens up +opposite the church.</i></p> + +<p><i>The road passes through clumps of</i> devastated trees. <i>On the left side of +the road is</i> a cemetery, containing numerous well-organised shelters. <i>The +village of</i> <b>Cormicy</b> <i>is next reached.</i></p> + + +<h4>Cormicy</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>Turn to the right at the entrance to the village. On either side are</i> tree-lined +boulevards, which were made on the ancient ramparts. The trees have been +cut to pieces by the shells.</p> + +<p>Cormicy was formerly a small fortified town with turret, gates, ramparts +and moats, all of which have disappeared except one gate. The site was +planted with trees, which surround practically the whole town. The town +was destroyed in the time of Charles VI., during the Hundred Years' +War.</p> + +<p>The present village suffered severely during the German bombardments, +most of the houses being damaged. In June, 1916, only eighty-three +inhabitants remained in their homes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +<img src="images/i153a.jpg" width="350" height="490" alt="CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914</span> +</div> + +<p>The ancient <b>Church</b> was likewise badly damaged (<i>photos above and below</i>). +While the tower, west front, and the two first bays of the nave are late 15th +or early 16th century, the greater part of the nave is 11th or 12th century. +The chevet and the transept-crossing are early 13th century, while the transept +ends probably date from the middle of 12th century.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i153b.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918</span> +</div> + +<p>The portal comprises twin doors surmounted with a broad flamboyant +recess. The doors have been partially mutilated. Above the window +runs a balcony, the Gothic balustrade of which, known as the <i>Gloria Gallery</i>, +was modern. This balustrade was destroyed by the bombardments, which +also brought down the steeple.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +<img src="images/i154.jpg" width="500" height="392" alt="G.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVING CORMICY +(See Itinerary, p. 134.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">G.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVING CORMICY<br /> +(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The west front has two Gothic doors with 16th century iron-work, at the +extremity of the aisles. The tympana of these doors, formerly lighted, +have been bricked up. The lintels have three consoles ornamented with +fantastic animals and banderoles. The three statues which carried the +consoles have long since disappeared.</p> + +<p>In the south transept, on the left, behind the altar, is an interesting small +door surmounted with a square lintel of the 11th or 12th century. Two +figures of winged monsters with heads of a man and a woman and fish tails, +stand out in high relief, framed and separated by a belt, on which are carved +<i>florets</i> mingled with fantastic figures.</p> + +<p>The three remarkable 18th century marble altars of the choir and transept +chapels come from the Church of the Nuns of Longueau, the abbey of which, +in the Rue du Jard at Rheims, was sold in 1790. The high-altar occupies +nearly the whole of the chancel. Over the tomb, six columns of grey Dinant +marble, crowned with Corinthian capitals, support an oval marble cornice +with richly carved and gilt consoles of wood. The very large, white and gilt +tabernacle is a fine example of 17th or 18th century woodwork. Its door, +decorated with symbolic attributes, is surrounded by statuettes depicting, +<i>in the lower part</i>, St. John the Evangelist and a holy woman wearing +crowns; <i>above each of these figures</i>, an angel; <i>at the top</i>, The Resurrection +of Christ.</p> + +<p>The sixteen carved oak stalls of the choir, as well as the wrought-iron +reading-desk on a marble pedestal, also came from the former Abbey of +Longueau.</p> + +<p>Near the choir, on a pillar of the nave, is an inscription to the effect that +the chronicler <i>Flodoard</i>, who died in 966, was <i>Curé</i> of Cormicy.</p> + +<p>The modern <b>Town Hall</b>, built by the Rheims architect, Gosset the elder, +which faced the church, was entirely destroyed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +<img src="images/i155.png" width="700" height="584" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>All the places visited since leaving Merfy, <i>i.e.</i> St. Thierry, Thil, Villers-Franqueux, +Hermonville and Cormicy, border the St. Thierry Heights. +The latter are commanded by the fort of the same name and the Chenay +Redoubt, with altitudes of about 670 and 620 feet respectively. They were +recaptured from the Germans after the Battle of the Marne on September 11, +1914, by the French 3rd Corps.</p> + +<p>After the loss of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal on May 27, +1918, this position, which with its guns commands the road and railway +from Rheims to Soissons and the road from Rheims to Laon, remained the +sole protection of Rheims to the north-west.</p> + +<p>It was defended by the French 45th Infantry Division (General Naulin), +composed of Algerian Sharp-shooters, Zouaves and African Light Infantry, +who held their ground on May 27-28, after which they were reinforced +by battalions of Singalese and Marines drawn from the sector east of +Rheims.</p> + +<p>The struggle was a fierce one, and hand-to-hand fighting frequent. Finally +the constant inflow of German reserves forced back the French who, on May +29, had to abandon the position, to which the enemy afterwards clung for +four months. On October 1 the Germans, beaten on the previous evening +by the French 5th Army on the high ground between the Aisne and Rheims, +was forced to retreat. The French regained possession of Merfy and St. +Thierry, and advanced as far as the outskirts of the Fort of St. Thierry, +which, with Thil and Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville, Courcy and Cormicy, +fell into their hands in the course of the next few days (<i>see map above</i>).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i156a.jpg" width="600" height="444" alt="DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE GODAT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE GODAT</span> +</div> + +<h4>From Cormicy to Godat Farm</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>Pass straight through Cormicy, leaving the church on the left. Take G.C. 32 to +the Rheims-Laon road (N. 44), where turn to the right. Rather less than a mile +further on, near the</i> Maison Blanche, <i>is a road leading to</i> <b>Godat Farm</b>. <i>Cars +can only go as far as the canal</i>, the destroyed bridge (<i>photo above</i>) not having +yet been rebuilt. The lock-keeper's house <i>seen in the photograph below</i> was +completely destroyed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i156b.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="THE LOCK-KEEPER'S HOUSE AT LE GODAT +(Now destroyed.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LOCK-KEEPER'S HOUSE AT LE GODAT<br /> +(<i>Now destroyed.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Cross the canal on foot to reach Godat Farm, situated about 300 yards +further on.</i></p> + +<p><b>Le Godat</b>, formerly a small fief with a castle and chapel (destroyed during +the Revolution in 1793), was merely a farm and a plain country house when +the war broke out. By reason of its position, north of the Aisne Canal, +this bridgehead was, throughout the war, one of the most fiercely disputed +points in the sector north-west of Rheims, even during the period of trench-warfare. +At the time of the French offensive of April, 1917, the 44th Infantry +Regiment advanced beyond Le Godat, where the French held their ground +until the powerful German push of May 27, 1918.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> +<img src="images/i157a.jpg" width="700" height="445" alt="RUINS OF LE GODAT FARM" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF LE GODAT FARM</span> +</div> + +<p>The farm is now a mere heap of ruins. Shelters still exist in the basements.</p> + +<p><i>Return to the National Road, and turn to the left.</i></p> + +<p><i>The road crosses</i> numerous boyaux which provided access to the front-line +trenches down the hill on the right.</p> + +<p><i>Follow the National Road to</i> <b>Chauffour Farm</b> (in ruins), <i>where take the +road on the left to</i> <b>Loivre</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i157b.jpg" width="500" height="404" alt="EMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVRE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">EMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVRE</span> +</div> + +<p><i>On nearing the canal</i>, the ruins of the village of Loivre (entirely destroyed) +<i>become visible</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i158a.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRE</span> +</div> + +<h4>From Loivre to Brimont</h4> + +<p><b>Loivre.</b>—<i>Visit the village on foot. The canal can only be crossed near the +lock south-east of the village.</i> The destroyed bridge has been replaced by a +temporary footway across the bed of the canal, which necessitates climbing +down and up the banks by steep paths.</p> + +<p><i>After crossing the canal the tourist passes by the</i> ruins of the Loivre Glass-Works, +founded in 1864 by the descendants of the noble house of Bigault de +Grandrupt, glass manufacturers of Argonne.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i158b.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919" title="" /> +<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919</span> +</div> + +<p>Loivre and its glass-works were occupied in September, 1914, by the Germans, +who deported the inhabitants to the Ardennes. The village and works<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +were re-captured during the offensive of April 16, 1917, by the French 23rd +and 133rd Infantry Regiments, surnamed <i>Les Braves</i> and <i>Les Lions</i> respectively. +Whilst other battalions outflanked the village and crossed the canal, +the third battalion of <i>Lions</i> attacked it in front. The position, powerfully +organised, was stoutly defended. The attacking troops were obliged to come +to a halt in front of the cemetery (a veritable bastion with concrete casemates), +and before the ruins of the mill, both of which bristled with machine-guns. +Withdrawing slightly to allow of a barrage of 75's, they rushed forward again +under the protection of the latter. The site of the mill and the cemetery +were captured, together with numerous prisoners (122 were taken in one +machine-gun shelter). The ruined village was next carried in a bayonet +charge, to the sound of the bugles. The captures were considerable, one +battalion of 500 men alone taking 825 prisoners.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/i159.jpg" width="450" height="469" alt="SEPULCHRE +IN THE +CEMETERY +AT LOIVRE, +USED BY THE +GERMANS AS A +PHOTOGRAPHIC +DARK-ROOM" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />SEPULCHRE +IN THE +CEMETERY +AT LOIVRE, +USED BY THE +GERMANS AS A +PHOTOGRAPHIC +DARK-ROOM</span> +</div> + +<p>In March and May, 1918, two violent attacks were made on Loivre by the +Germans, but without success. They took it on May 27, only to be driven +out on October 4.</p> + +<p><i>Before the war, a road</i>, which has since completely disappeared, <i>led direct +from Loivre to Brimont. To reach the latter it is now necessary to go farther +north, via Berméricourt and Orainville, returning southwards by the Neufchâtel +to Rheims road (see Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>).</i></p> + +<p><b>Berméricourt.</b>—This hamlet, of Gallo-Frankish origin, was formerly +more populous. The bombardments have literally wiped it out.</p> + +<p><i>From Berméricourt the tourist reaches</i> <b>Orainville</b> <i>by G.C. 30, which becomes +I.C. 2 after crossing the boundary line between the "departments" of the Marne +and the Ardennes. At the entrance to the ruined village, near the church, turn +to the right into I.C. 12, which, 1 kilometre further on, joins the road from +Neufchâtel to Rheims (G.C. 9), where turn to the right.</i></p> + +<p><i>Follow this road for four and a half kilometres to the ruins of</i> <b>Landau Farm</b>, +<i>turn to the right, then, about 200 yards further on, take the road on the left to the</i> +village of Brimont, entirely destroyed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i160a.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="ALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMÉRICOURT VILLAGE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMÉRICOURT VILLAGE</span> +</div> + +<h4>Brimont Fort and Château</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, and summary of the Military Operations, p. <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p>Situated to the west of the road from Rheims to Neufchâtel (formerly a +Roman causeway which crossed the hill at <i>Cran de Brimont</i>) Brimont was +already important in Roman times. It was fortified in the Middle Ages, +and traces of its ancient fortifications are still to be found on the hill. The +discovery of a Roman tomb in 1790 caused considerable excitement in archæological +circles, as it was believed to be the burial-place of the Frankish Chief +<i>Pharamond</i> who, according to one chronicler, had been buried on a hillock +near Rheims.</p> + +<p>In 1339, during the siege of Rheims by the English, the Duke of Lancaster +had his camp at Brimont.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i160b.jpg" width="700" height="556" alt="RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGE +In the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of the +road to the Château (entirely destroyed)." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGE<br /> +<i>In the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of the +road to the Château (entirely destroyed).</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i161a.jpg" width="500" height="391" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONT</span> +</div> + +<p>On several occasions, since September, 1914, the Germans deported the +inhabitants of Brimont and Coucy to the Ardennes. The village is now +destroyed and its church a heap of ruins.</p> + +<p>The church was built at the beginning of the 15th century.</p> + +<p>The four last bays of the nave, which was partly Romanesque, were +altered in the middle of the 16th century.</p> + +<p>The sacristy occupied the lower storey of the square, pointed-arch tower.</p> + +<p>Several ancient statues were placed at the entrance to the Choir: <i>St +Remi</i>, with a woman in late 15th century dress kneeling at his feet; a <i>Virgin</i> +offering grapes to the Infant Jesus in her arms (late 15th century) and a +large <i>Christ Crucified</i>, dated from the middle of the 16th century. A beautiful +18th century <i>lectern</i> of carved wood, representing an eagle standing on a +massive three-sided pedestal of red and white marble, stood in front of the +Choir.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i161b.jpg" width="500" height="388" alt="BRIMONT FORT" title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRIMONT FORT</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>To visit the</i> <b>Fort of Brimont</b>, <i>skirt the church on the side of the portal +staircase, then take the road seen on the photograph on p. <a href="#Page_152">152</a>. The Fort is +about 400 yards further on.</i></p> + + +<p><b>The Defences North of Rheims and the Fighting +in that Sector</b></p> + +<p>The <b>Fort of Brimont</b>, completed by the <b>Battery of the Cran de +Brimont</b> about a mile to the east, and on the west by the <b>Loivre Battery</b>, +mentioned on page <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, sweeps the whole country north of Rheims as far as +the banks of the Aisne, Suippe, Retourne and the Aisne-Marne canal, the +Rheims-Neufchâtel, Rheims-Vouziers, Rheims-Rethel and Rheims-Laon +roads, and the Rheims-Laon and Rheims-Charleville railways. About +five miles east of Brimont and four miles east of Rheims is the position of +<b>Berru</b> (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_165">165</a></i>), extending along a front of about six miles, <i>via</i> the hills +of Berru and Nogent l'Abbesse. Intended by those who planned it to guard +the valley of the Suippe, the Rheims-Rethe and Rheims-Vouziers roads, +as well as the Rheims-Charleville and Rheims-Châlons-sur-Marne railways, +it comprises the <b>Fort of Witry</b> (about 150 feet in altitude), the batteries of +<b>La Vigie de Berru</b> (870 feet), and the <b>fort and batteries of Nogent-l'Abbesse</b> +(670 feet).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i162.png" width="700" height="555" alt="The roads shown on the above map are those followed by the Third Itinerary (see p. 160)." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><i>The roads shown on the above map are those +followed by the Third Itinerary (see p. <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.)</i></span> +</div> + +<p>Brimont and Berru are further covered and linked up by the <b>Fort of +Fresne</b> (360 feet), situated four miles north-east of Rheims.</p> + +<p>These<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> defensive works, conceived and executed after the war of 1870, had, +in consequence of the evolution of strategical and tactical doctrines, been +abandoned or disarmed before the war of 1914. After evacuating Rheims +on September 12, 1914, the Germans grasped the importance of these +works, to which they clung tenaciously, after hurriedly organising them. It +was against these naturally strong positions, further strengthened by trenches, +that the French 5th Army, in pursuit of the enemy, found themselves brought +to a standstill on the evening of September 12. From September 13 to +18, the French tried in vain to capture them. The 5th Division, under +General Mangin, did succeed in capturing the <b>Château de Brimont</b>, in the +plain, but were unable to hold it.</p> + +<p>Later, the Germans converted these hills into one of the most formidable +positions organised by them in France. Brimont, Berru, Fresne and Nogent +l'Abbesse, whose guns slowly destroyed Rheims, were, so to speak, her jailers +for four years.</p> + +<p>In April, 1917, during the French offensive of the Aisne, one division, +known as the "Division of aces" (because its four regiments have the +fourragère decoration), penetrated into Berméricourt and advanced to the +outskirts of Brimont, but was unable to hold its ground against the furious +counter-attacks of the Germans. It was only in October, 1918, that the +French 5th Army, in conjunction with the victorious attacks of the 4th Army +in Champagne, after forcing the Germans back to the Aisne and the canal, +and after crossing the Aisne canal on October 4 in front of Loivre and +near Berméricourt, forced the enemy, whose communications were now +threatened, to abandon one of the most valuable portions of his 1914 positions. +On October 5, the French re-entered Brimont and Nogent l'Abbesse, +progressed beyond Bourgogne, Cernay-les-Rheims, Beine, Caurel and +Pomacle, and, in spite of desperate enemy resistance, drove back the +Germans to the Suippe.</p> + +<p><i>After visiting the fort return to the village of Brimont.</i></p> + +<p>From here the <b>Château de Brimont</b> may be visited, but this will have to be +done on foot as the road has been destroyed, traces only of it being left in +places (<i>the lower photograph on p. <a href="#Page_152">152</a> shows the beginning of the road in the +village</i>).</p> + +<p>The <b>Château de l'Ermitage</b>, also known as the Château de Brimont, <i>is +situated about 500 yards south of the village, at the entrance to a</i> large park, +completely devastated. It was the scene of desperate fighting (<i>see p. <a href="#Page_152">152</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Return to Brimont, cross the village (skirting the church) and continue straight +on to the</i> <b>Cran de Brimont Redoubt</b> <i>on the road to Rheims.</i> Numerous +German trenches, etc., are to be seen here.</p> + +<p><i>Turn to the right into G.C. 9, which dips down to the</i> Plain of Rheims. The +region hereabouts bristle with barbed-wire entanglements and is crossed with +numerous trenches. It was ranged to an incredible degree by the bombardments.</p> + +<p><i>At the bottom of the hill which starts at the Cran de Brimont, cross Soulains +Wood, of which only</i> a few torn tree-stumps remain.</p> + +<p><i>Several hundred yards after leaving the wood, take on foot the broken road +to the</i> "<b>Cavaliers de Courcy</b>," situated <i>on the right, about 500 yards +further on.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i164.jpg" width="600" height="476" alt="THE AISNE CANAL AT THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE AISNE CANAL AT THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"</span> +</div> + +<h4>The "Cavaliers de Courcy"</h4> + +<p>To the north of La Neuvillette, the Aisne-Marne Canal is flanked on +both sides by enormous artificial embankments planted with fir-trees and +known as the "<b>Cavaliers de Courcy</b>." After their retreat in September, 1914, +the Germans entrenched themselves there and clung to the east bank until +April, 1917.</p> + +<p>On April 16, 1917, the French 410th Regiment of the Line attacked +the enemy's formidable positions there. This Brittany regiment set out +from positions to which they had given names taken from the history of their +country (<i>Quimper Bastion</i>, <i>Auray</i>, <i>Redon Bastion</i>, etc.). On the first day +they carried three successive lines of defences, and advanced about a mile. +On the 17th and 18th they left their zone of action, to ensure the <i>liaison</i> on +their right, and to help a brigade in difficulties on their left. For eight days +they held their positions against powerful enemy counter-attacks, after +having progressed to a depth of two miles and captured more than 400 +prisoners, 11 bomb-throwers, and an immense amount of stores.</p> + +<p>These positions, like the neighbouring villages, were re-taken by the +Germans in May and June, 1918, and finally by the Allies in October, 1918.</p> + +<p><i>Return to the road and follow it towards Rheims. Leave on the left</i> the devastated +<b>Aviation-ground of Champagne</b>—now in a state of complete +upheaval, due to the terrific shelling it received—<i>then cross the</i> <b>Plain of +Bétheny</b> (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_157">157</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The Plain of Bétheny was the scene of two important historical events: +in 1901 the Tsar Nicolas II. reviewed a part of the French Army there; +in August, 1909, the Great Aviation Week was inaugurated there, in the +presence of an immense crowd of spectators.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> +<img src="images/i165a.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="GERMAN +FIRST-LINE +POSITIONS +BÉTHENY +PLAIN +(see sketch-map +below) +Photographed at 7,000 ft. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 10 a.m." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GERMAN +FIRST-LINE +POSITIONS +BÉTHENY +PLAIN<br /> +(<i>see sketch-map +below</i>)<br /> +<i>Photographed at 7,000 ft. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 10 a.m.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i165b.png" width="700" height="588" alt="THE GERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BÉTHENY +The tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to the +bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BÉTHENY<br /> +<i>The tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to the +bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above.</i></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Pass under the Rheims-Laon railway by a very sharp double turning.</i> <b>Pierquin +Farm</b>, entirely destroyed, <i>stood on the right a short distance further on</i>. +The only remaining trace is the torn shapeless carcass of a large +iron shed.</p> + +<p>The railway embankment south of Pierquin Farm was fiercely disputed +from September 18, 1914, onwards. Several enemy attacks against it broke +down before the French 75's. During the offensive of May, 1918, the whole +of this region was the scene of desperate fighting. La Neuvillette was taken +on May 30, and Pierquin Farm on the 31st. On August 4, the French, +after crossing the Aisne Canal, advanced to La Neuvillette, where the enemy +made a desperate stand. At the beginning of October they advanced to the +north of La Neuvillette, which the enemy was eventually compelled to +abandon. The last inhabitants had left the locality on July 12, 1916.</p> + +<p><i>The tourist enters Rheims by the Rue de Neufchâtel and the Avenue +de Laon.</i></p> + + +<h4>La Neuvillette</h4> + +<p><i>On reaching the Avenue de Laon, the tourist, instead of entering Rheims, +may turn to the right and go northwards as far as the</i> village and cemetery of +La Neuvillette.</p> + +<p>The cemetery of La Neuvillette <i>is on the right of the road, between the last +houses of Rheims and the village</i>. It was completely cut up by a network of +first-line trenches (<i>photos, p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></i>).</p> + +<p>The village of La Neuvillette, now in ruins, was the scene of desperate +fighting during the German offensive of May, 1918.</p> + +<p>Nothing remains of the 12th century church of John-the-Baptist.</p> + +<p>The glass-works north-west of the village, by the side of the canal, are +now a heap of ruins (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Return to Rheims by the same road.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i166.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="THE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTE</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i167a.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="THE GLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE GLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTE</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i167b.jpg" width="500" height="406" alt="DRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">DRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTE</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i167c.jpg" width="600" height="401" alt="THE CEMETERY AT NEUVILLETTE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CEMETERY AT NEUVILLETTE</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span></p> +<h2>SECOND DAY<br />MORNING</h2> + + +<h3>FRESNES FORT—WITRY-LES-REIMS—BERRU—NOGENT +L'ABBESSE—BEINE</h3> + +<h6>(<i>See complete Itineraries, p. <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, and map on p. <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</i>)</h6> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i168.png" width="700" height="659" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><i>This Itinerary will lead the tourist through the region of the</i> Forts to the +north-east of Rheims, which formed the rear of the German lines during the +stabilisation period of 1914-1918.</p> + +<p>It was this line of forts that, in the German hands, held the French in +check after the first Battle of the Marne. Practically the whole of these +works were but little damaged by the relatively light bombardments, and +have retained traces of the German organisation.</p> + +<p><i>Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Laon</i> (<i>which begins at</i> Les Pomenades, +<i>opposite Mars Gate</i>), <i>and the Rue de Neufchâtel (second street on the right), +Sortie No. IX. of the Michelin Tourist Guide (see coloured plan, pp. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-<a href="#Page_33">33</a>).</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +<img src="images/i169.jpg" width="500" height="387" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURGOGNE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURGOGNE</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Follow in the contrary direction the route described in the preceding Itinerary +(p. <a href="#Page_134">134</a> to p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a>) as far as the crossing in the Berméricourt-Bourgogne road, +where stood</i> Landau Farm, now entirely in ruins. <i>At this crossing take +G.C. 30 on the right.</i> German camouflaging is still visible on the right-hand +side of the road.</p> + + +<h4>Bourgogne—Fresnes</h4> + +<p><i>The village of</i> Bourgogne, entirely in ruins, <i>is soon reached</i>.</p> + +<p>The village is of very ancient origin. Formerly it was protected by a +belt of moats, now partly filled in, and by earthen ramparts, almost everywhere +levelled. The lines of these moats, planted with rows of elm-trees, +are clearly distinguishable. There is a very extensive view from this original +site.</p> + +<p>A portion of the village was burnt by the Germans who, in 1916, destroyed +the belfry of the church with dynamite.</p> + +<p>This church (dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul), with its fine Romanesque +tower, was remarkable.</p> + +<p>The greater part of it dated from the 12th and 13th centuries. It is +now in ruins (<i>photo above</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Cross straight through the village.</i> Numerous German signs <i>are still to be +seen. At the cross-roads just outside the village, follow the railway, then cross +it near the destroyed railway station of Fresnes. The village of</i> Fresnes <i>is +reached shortly afterwards.</i></p> + +<p><i>Turn to the right at the first crossing met with.</i> The church <i>stands about +100 yards away, on the left.</i></p> + +<p>Norman in style, the Church of Fresnes comprises a central nave with +aisles and a tower without transept. It dates back to the 12th century, but +was several times extensively altered and restored both in the 18th century +and in recent times.</p> + +<p>A small porch of limestone added to the northern aisle, is reached by a +round Norman bay of stone. In the corner of the porch, to the left on entering, +is incrusted a fragment of a small funerary monument of the 16th century.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +<img src="images/i170.jpg" width="500" height="394" alt="RUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-REIMS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-REIMS</span> +</div> + +<p>This church was almost entirely destroyed.</p> + +<p><i>After turning to the right at the crossing mentioned above, keep straight on.</i></p> + +<p>About 2 kilometres from Fresnes the road from that village to Witry-les-Reims +crosses an old Roman causeway, at the side of which, slightly to +the south of Hill 118, the Fort of Fresnes was built in 1878. This fort was +blown up by the Germans during their retreat in 1918. Its ruins are +impressive. In the moats of the fort are German trenches and shelters +extending right up to the walls of the fort.</p> + +<p><i>The village of Witry-les-Reims is next reached.</i> It suffered severely from +the numerous bombardments, which its situation near the first lines rendered +inevitable.</p> + + +<h4>Witry-les-Reims</h4> + +<p><i>After crossing the railway (l.c.) at the entrance to the village, keep straight +on.</i> The ruined church <i>is on the left, near the entrance to the village</i>.</p> + +<p>Except for one tower, which dates from the 12th century, the church is +modern. The spire was destroyed by the Germans. The belfry, used by +the enemy as an observation-post, was struck by French shells.</p> + +<p>Like many of the villages around Rheims, Witry-les-Reims is of Gallo-Roman +origin. More than two hundred Gallic sepulchres and cinerary urns +have been brought to light. The objects thus discovered, including a large +number of vases, now form the <i>Bourin</i> pre-historic collection.</p> + +<p><i>After visiting the church keep straight on. At the Mairie</i>, of which only +the front remains standing, <i>turn to the right into the Rue Boucton-Fayréaux. +Follow this street to the Place Gambetta (about 200 yards distant), where turn to +the left.</i> The entrance to "Pommern Tunnel," which connected up the +German rear and front lines (<i>photo, p. <a href="#Page_163">163</a></i>), is in this square.</p> + +<p>The German inscriptions in the tunnel have been taken down, and the +entrance blocked up, on account of the roof and walls giving way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> +<img src="images/i171.jpg" width="500" height="392" alt="ENTRANCE TO "POMMERN TUNNEL" AT WITRY-LES-REIMS" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />ENTRANCE TO "POMMERN TUNNEL" AT WITRY-LES-REIMS</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Leaving the Place Gambetta, take the Rheims-Rethel road (N. 51) on the left, +then the first street on the right to the</i> <b>Fort of Witry</b>.</p> + +<p><i>Just outside the village the road crosses</i> the old Roman causeway from +Rheims to Trèves, <i>and a little further on passes to the left of the</i> <b>Fort of Witry</b>.</p> + +<p>The <b>Fort of Witry</b> suffered but little from the bombardments.</p> + +<p><i>The road climbs the northern slopes of the</i> Berru Hill, across numerous +German trenches. <i>At the bottom of a short run-down, opposite the village of +Berru, is a crossing of four ways. The road leading to the fort is the one straight +ahead.</i></p> + +<p><i>On the right, among the</i> numerous defences, is a German cemetery containing +a monument to the dead, ornamented with somewhat rudimentary +carving and bearing an epitaph dedicated to the memory of the German +soldiers who fell in the battles around Rheims.</p> + +<p><i>The road continues up the slopes of Berru Hill, to the right of the way leading +to the</i> auxiliary battery of the fort of <b>Vigie de Berru</b>. <i>The top of the hill is +soon reached</i>, on which the fort, known as the "Vigie de Berru," stands. +This fort was little bombarded, and is practically intact.</p> + +<p><b>Berru Hill</b>, on account of its height, its sulphurous and ferruginous +waters, flint quarries, and fertile soil, was inhabited in pre-historic times. +At the summit, a <i>campignien</i> workshop, and farther down, above the springs +which supply the village with water, a neolithic station have been discovered. +Thousands of knives, arrow-heads, scrapers, saws, and other primitive tools +have been unearthed. In the Gallo-Roman times the village must have been +fairly important, judging by the vestiges of the ancient buildings discovered +at the foot of the hill. It was near Berru that the <i>Gaulish helmet</i>, now in the +National Museum of St. Germain, was found. Towards the end of the 16th +century (about 1575), during the Leaguers' struggles around Rheims, the +village was fortified, to protect it from pillaging by the soldiers. The moats +and glacis which surrounded it are still visible to the south, where, covered +with trees, they adjoin the gardens. Subterranean places of refuge, the +entrance to which is no longer known, formerly existed underneath the village.</p> + +<p><i>From the fort, the road, winds down the opposite slopes of the hill. At +the bottom of the latter, leave on the right the road to the</i> <b>Fort of Nogent +l'Abbesse,</b> <i>seen on the high ground to the right.</i></p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +<img src="images/i172a.jpg" width="600" height="343" alt="ENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L'ABBESSE" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />ENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L'ABBESSE</span> +</div> + +<h4>Nogent l'Abbesse—Beine—Berru</h4> + +<h6>(<i>See Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, and summary of the Military Operations, p. <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<p><i>The village of</i> <b>Nogent l'Abbesse</b> <i>is next reached, at the entrance to which +the road divides into three branches. Take the middle one (G.C. 64), which leads +to the</i> ruined village of <b>Beine</b>. <i>During the run-down to the village, there is a</i> +fine view of the Champagne Hills in front (Mont Cornillet and Mont Haut).</p> + +<p>The village of <b>Beine</b> was one of the oldest demesnes belonging to the +Abbey of St. Remi-de-Reims. It was made into a <i>commune</i> at the end of +the 12th century.</p> + +<p>The church of St. Laurent, situated in the centre of the village, was an +excellent specimen of the transition style of the 12th century (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> +<img src="images/i172b.jpg" width="350" height="527" alt="RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BEINE" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BEINE</span> +</div> + +<p><i>A road leading to Sillery leaves Beine in a south-westerly direction, but owing +to its bad condition it is impossible to use it for returning to Rheims.</i> The +trenches and shell holes have barely been filled in, and the temporary bridges +over the wider trenches would probably break down under a fairly heavy +car. On the other hand, the huge craters made by the Germans in the course +of their retreat, have only been summarily repaired and are not practicable +for motor-cars. <i>Tourists should therefore return to Nogent l'Abbesse by the road +they came by.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i173a.jpg" width="500" height="395" alt="BERRU CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">BERRU CHURCH</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Enter the village by the main street, which follow as far as</i> the church, whose +belfry has been destroyed.</p> + +<p><i>After the church, take the first street on the right, then the second road on the +left (G.C. 64), which leads to</i> <b>Berru</b>. <i>In front of the village, turn to the left and +cross straight through.</i> The 12th century Church of St. Martin, which suffered +only slightly from the bombardments, <i>is in the middle of the village, on the +left (photo above)</i>.</p> + +<p><i>On leaving Berru, the tourist comes again to the crossing mentioned on p. <a href="#Page_163">163</a>. +Turn to the right and return to Witry-les-Reims by the road previously followed.</i></p> + +<p><i>At Witry-les-Reims, take N. 51 on the left, passing by the</i> ruined works of +Linguet (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<p><i>Rheims is reached by the Faubourg Cérès. Keep straight on to the Place +Royale, via the Rue du Faubourg Cérès and the Rue Cérès.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i173b.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="RUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKS</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span></p> +<h2>SECOND DAY<br />AFTERNOON</h2> + +<h3>LA POMPELLE FORT-SILLERY</h3> + +<h6>(<i>See complete Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</i>)</h6> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i174.png" width="700" height="900" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p> + + +<p><i>This Itinerary will take the tourist through two regions of entirely different +characters.</i></p> + +<p><i>The first part is devoted to visiting the battlefield south-east of Rheims</i>, which +was the scene of much desperate fighting throughout the war, but especially +in 1918. This region formed the pivot of the French right wing, and remained +firm despite the repeated powerful attacks of the enemy.</p> + +<p><i>The second part of the Itinerary leaves the battlefield proper, and conducts the +tourist across</i> the most reputed vine-growing centres of Champagne (Verzenay, +Mailly-Champagne and Ludes), through lovely, picturesque country, which, +although it has somewhat suffered from the bombardments, has nevertheless +retained its pre-war aspect.</p> + +<p><i>Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Châlons, continued by N. 44 (see the plan +of Rheims between pp. <a href="#Page_32">32</a> and <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, F. 6 and H. 7).</i></p> + +<p>The Avenue de Châlons was well within the first-line defences.</p> + +<p>Two communicating trenches run along the footpaths on either side of +the Avenue.</p> + +<p><i>Skirt</i> Pommery Park, <i>on the left</i>, completely ravaged by the bombardment +and the network of trenches which cross it.</p> + +<p><i>As soon as the last houses of the town have been left behind, the tourist finds +himself</i> in the midst of the battlefield.</p> + +<p>The sector, known as "<b>La Butte-de-Tir</b>," situated on the left, below +Cernay and beyond the railway, was the scene of furious fighting throughout +the German occupation of 1914 to 1918 (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i175.jpg" width="700" height="578" alt="THE "BUTTE-DE-TIR" SECTOR +Listening-post in front of Cernay village." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "BUTTE-DE-TIR" SECTOR<br /> +<i>Listening-post in front of Cernay village.</i></span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i176a.jpg" width="500" height="541" alt="COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>The road crosses the Châlons Railway (l.c.), and goes thence direct to the</i> +<b>Fort of La Pompelle</b>, passing through an inextricable network of trenches +and barbed wire entanglements. The country hereabouts was completely +ravaged by the terrific bombardments, and recalls the devastated regions +around Verdun, near Vaux and Douaumont (<i>see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: +Verdun, and the Battles for its Possession</i>).</p> + +<p><b>La Jouissance Farm</b> is next passed. Nothing remains either of it or +of the road, <i>which started from this point towards Cernay, on the left</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i176b.jpg" width="700" height="465" alt="LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i177a.jpg" width="500" height="401" alt="THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)</span> +</div> + +<p>The <b>Fort of La Pompelle</b>, <i>which is next reached</i>, is now a mere heap of +ruins. The road which led to the fort no longer exists. <i>To visit the ruins +of the fort, tourists will have to follow on foot the narrow-gauge railway which +starts from the road (photo above)</i>.</p> + +<p>Tradition has it that St. Timothy came from Asia to convert Rheims, +suffered martyrdom, together with St. Apollinaris and several companions, +on the hill known as <i>La Pompelle</i>, so-called perhaps from the procession +(<i>pompa</i> or <i>pompella</i>) which, in the Middle Ages, used to visit the place of +martyrdom of the saints.</p> + +<p>This hill, which rises close to the crossing of the Rheims-St.-Hilaire-le-Grand +and Rheims-Châlons Roads, was fortified after 1870, to flank the position +of Berru on the south.</p> + +<p>The road from Rheims to Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand (<i>G.C. 7</i>), which used to +start from the "Alger Inn," at the cross-roads mentioned above, no longer +exists. Like the inn, it was obliterated by the shelling. A huge crater now +occupies the site of the Alger Inn (<i>photo below</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i177b.jpg" width="500" height="363" alt="CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE "ALGER INN"" title="" /> +<span class="caption">CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE "ALGER INN"</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i178a.jpg" width="500" height="356" alt="THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE +"ALGER INN" (1918)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE +"ALGER INN" (1918)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Continue along N. 44. About 1 kilometre from the fort, at a bend in the road</i>, +the shattered remnants of trees of an avenue are visible on the left. Under +the first fir-tree of this avenue, about 20 yards from the national road, is an +armoured machine-gun shelter, almost intact.</p> + +<p><i>Cross the railway (l.c.) near the entirely destroyed station of Petit-Sillery. +After passing a ruined château on the left, cross the bridge over the Vesle. At +the fork beyond the bridge, leave N. 44 and take G.C. 8 on the right to</i> <b>Sillery</b>.</p> + +<p>This village, renowned for its dry wine, is pleasantly situated on the banks +of the Vesle. Throughout the war, it was quite close to the trenches and was +frequently bombarded. In May, 1916, only some fifty of its inhabitants +remained in the village, which subsequently suffered very severely, especially +in 1918.</p> + +<p><i>Take a turn in the village, then follow N. 44 towards Châlons (see Itinerary, +p. <a href="#Page_166">166</a>).</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i178b.jpg" width="600" height="414" alt="THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRIE" AT SILLERY (1918)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRIE" AT SILLERY (1918)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span></p> + +<p>The region of <b>Sillery-Pompelle</b> was the scene of much fierce fighting +throughout the war. After the capture of <b>La Pompelle</b> and the "<b>Alger Inn</b>" +by the French 10th Corps on the night of September 17-18, 1914, the +Germans increased the number of their attacks, with a view to regaining these +important positions.</p> + +<p>One of these attacks (that of December 30, 1914) was preceded by the +explosion of a mine at the "Alger Inn," which made a hole 130 feet in diameter +by 55 feet deep (<i>see photo, p. <a href="#Page_169">169</a></i>). After a hand-to-hand fight, the French +drove back the enemy and remained masters of the crater.</p> + +<p>In 1918, during their offensives against Rheims, the Germans attacked +several times in this region. On June 1, between <b>Pommery Park</b> (in the +south-eastern outskirts of Rheims) and the north-east of Sillery, they attacked +with eight or nine battalions and fifteen tanks. The garrison of Fort Pompelle, +momentarily encircled, held out until a furious counter-attack by the French +Colonial Infantry relieved it and drove back the assailants. The German +tanks were either captured or destroyed. On the 18th, after an hour's intense +bombardment, the Germans made a fresh attack and secured a footing in +the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of +Sillery, but French counter-attacks drove them out almost immediately. +From July 15 to 17 their attacks on Sillery were likewise repulsed.</p> + +<p><i>Continue along N. 44 to the</i> destroyed Espérance Farm <i>(about 2 kilometres +distant), then turn to the right</i>. Numerous military works were made by the +French in the embankments of the Aisne-Marne canal along the left side of +the road.</p> + +<p><i>The road rises towards the "Mountain of Rheims."</i> A white tower, +dominating the whole plain, <i>is seen on the left (photo below)</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Verzenay</b> <i>is next reached by the Rue de Sillery.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> +<img src="images/i179.jpg" width="700" height="494" alt="VERZENAY, SEEN FROM THE VERZENAY—MAILLY—CHAMPAGNE ROAD" title="" /> +<span class="caption">VERZENAY, SEEN FROM THE VERZENAY—MAILLY—CHAMPAGNE ROAD</span> +<br /><br /></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i180.jpg" width="500" height="345" alt="THE OLD MILL AT VERZENAY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE OLD MILL AT VERZENAY</span> +</div> + +<p>It was at <b>Verzenay</b> that, on the evening of September 3, 1914, the +German aeroplane, which had dropped bombs on Rheims the same morning, +was brought down. It has suffered relatively little from the bombardments.</p> + +<p><i>To visit the church</i>, which contains the tomb of Saint-Basle (<i>chapel on the +right</i>), <i>take the Rue Gambetta, then the Rue Thiers</i>.</p> + +<p><i>After visiting the church, return to the Rue Thiers, at the end of which is the +Rue de Mailly (G.C. 26).</i></p> + +<p><i>Take the latter, which, on leaving Verzenay, rises fairly stiffly.</i></p> + +<p><i>At the top of the hill, on the right, begins the road leading to</i> <b>Verzenay Mill</b>, +which crowns Hill 227 (<i>see Itinerary, p. <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, and photo above</i>).</p> + +<p>This mill, whence there is a fine panorama of the plain as far as the hills +of Berru and Moronvilliers, was a military observation-post of the first order +during the siege warfare.</p> + +<p><i>It belongs to the champagne-wine firm of Heidsieck Monopole, which allows +tourists to visit it, as also their vineyards in the surrounding country.</i></p> + +<p><i>The road dips down to</i> Mailly-Champagne, <i>at the entrance to which village +turn to the right into the Rue Gambetta, then to the left into the Rue de Ludes +(G.C. 26)</i>. The road, cut out of the hillside, is very picturesque as far as Ludes. +In the forest, on the left of the road, are numerous "<i>cendrières</i>," or quarries, +from which volcanic sulphurous cinders, used for improving the vines, are +extracted. Heaps of these valuable cinders (grey, white and black) are +frequently encountered at the side of the road.</p> + +<p><b>Ludes</b> <i>is next reached by the Avenue de la Gare</i>.</p> + +<p>The region just passed through, including the villages of Verzenay, +Mailly-Champagne and Ludes, as well as Verzy (<i>to the east</i>), and Rilly-la-Montagne +and Villers-Allerand (<i>to the west</i>), are the wine-growing centres of +the "Mountain of Rheims" properly so-called, the black grapes from which +produce the best brands of Champagne. The villages are picturesquely +situated at the edge of the forests which crown the hills, while the vineyards +which cover the slopes of the latter descend to the chalky plain. These +vineyards, divided into tiny plots, the ground of which before the ravages of +the phylloxera cost as much as 93,000 francs per hectare (about 2-1/2 acres), +constitute the principal wealth of the country. Here and there they have +suffered from the war, but this has not prevented the vine-dressers from +cultivating them (often with the help of the soldiers) or from gathering the +grapes, under the continual menace of the German guns.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> +<img src="images/i181a.jpg" width="500" height="368" alt="PUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERY</span> +</div> + +<p>At <b>Ludes</b>, in the <i>Avenue de la Gare, turn to the right into the Rue de Cormontreuil, +and again to the right, into the Rue de Puisieulx (G.C. 33)</i>.</p> + +<p><i>At the crossing, 1 kilometre beyond Ludes, go straight on. After passing +on the right an avenue bordered with trees leading to the</i> <b>Château of Romont, +Puisieulx</b> <i>is reached</i>.</p> + +<p><i>At the first crossing, on entering the village, keep straight on, then turn to the +right as far as the</i> ruined church, with its curious loop-holed chevet. <i>Leave +the church on the right and, at the end of the village, turn to the left.</i> There are a +few graves <i>on the right of the road</i>. <i>After skirting a large estate, the trees of +which were destroyed by shell-fire, the tourist reaches</i> <b>Sillery</b>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i181b.jpg" width="400" height="562" alt="RUINED CHURCH OF TAISSY" title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINED CHURCH OF TAISSY</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Turn to the left into G.C. 8, at the entrance to the village. On the right are +vestiges</i> of a small wood, known as "Zouaves Wood," which was the scene of +many sanguinary fights after its capture by the French in 1914.</p> + +<p><i>The tourist next reaches</i> <b>Taissy</b>, whose ruined church <i>is on the right, by the +side of the Vesle (photo, p. <a href="#Page_173">173</a>)</i>.</p> + +<p>This interesting church is largely Romanesque in style (tower, chevet and +nave). The tabernacle, with altar-piece of carved wood, is Louis XIII. A +fine wrought-iron railing encloses the sanctuary (<i>photo below</i>). The small, +sonorous bell of the belfry is, strange to say, 13th or 14th century.</p> + +<p><i>Pass straight through Taissy, then follow the tram-lines.</i> <b>Cormontreuil</b> <i>is +entered by the Rue Victor-Hugo.</i></p> + +<p><i>From Cormontreuil, the tourist may return to Rheims either by turning to +the right in the village, beyond the tram station (in this case he will enter Rheims +by the Rue de Cormontreuil which leads to the Place Dieu-Lumière) or by continuing +straight ahead. In the latter case he will cross the Faubourg Fléchambault +by the Rue Ledru-Rollin. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue +Fléchambault which, after crossing the Vesle and the canal, leads to the Church of +St. Remi.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i182.jpg" width="400" height="579" alt="THE CHOIR OF TAISSY CHURCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHOIR OF TAISSY CHURCH</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">PAGES</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Political History of Rheims</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a>-<a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Military History of Rheims</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8</a> and <a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Battles for Rheims, 1914-1918</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a>-<a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Destruction of Rheims by the bombardments</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a>-<a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Life in the bombarded City</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">I.—A Visit to the City</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a>-<a href="#Page_120">120</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Cathedral</span> (description of)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a>-<a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">History of the Cathedral</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a>-<a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Cathedral during the War</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> and <a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Coloured Plan of Rheims</td><td align="right"> between <a href="#Page_32">32</a> and <a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Plan of the Cathedral and Archi-episcopal Palace</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Exterior of the Cathedral</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a>-<a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Interior of the Cathedral</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a>-<a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">First Itinerary—The City</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a>-<a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Place du Parvis</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Archi-episcopal Palace</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a>-<a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Place Drouet d'Erlon and The Promenades</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> and <a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Hôtel-de-Ville</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Place des Marchés</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Place Royale</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Musicians' House</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Mars Gate</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Rue de Cérès</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Second Itinerary—The City</span> (<i>continued</i>)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a>-<a href="#Page_120">120</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Rue Chanzy</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a>-<a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Lycée</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_97">97</a> and <a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Abbey of Saint Pierre-les-Dames</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Pommery Wine-Cellars</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Church of St. Remi</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_103">103</a>-<a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Hôtel-Dieu (Hospital)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">II.—A Visit to the Battlefield.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">First Itinerary</span> (Morning)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_122">122</a>-<a href="#Page_133">133</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Ormes</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Euphraise</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Coulommes-la-Montagne</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Gueux</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Thillois</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Second Itinerar</span>y (Afternoon)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_134">134</a>-<a href="#Page_159">159</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tinqueux</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Merfy</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Thierry</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Villers-Franqueux</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cormicy</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Le Godat</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Loivre</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Brimont</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_152">152</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The "Cavaliers de Courcy"</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">La Neuvillette</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Third Itinerary</span> (Morning)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_160">160</a>-<a href="#Page_165">165</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Bourgogne—Fresnes</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Witry-les-Reims</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Nogent l'Abbesse—Beine—Berru</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Fourth Itinerary</span> (Afternoon)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_166">166</a>-<a href="#Page_174">174</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Butte-de-Tir</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Fort de la Pompelle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Alger Inn</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Verzenay</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i183.jpg" width="500" height="378" alt="THE RUE DE LA GRUE, SEEN FROM THE RUE CÉRÈS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE RUE DE LA GRUE, SEEN FROM THE RUE CÉRÈS</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i184.jpg" width="500" height="364" alt="HERMONVILLE PORCH" title="" /> +<span class="caption">HERMONVILLE PORCH</span> +</div> + +<div class="center"><br />PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br /> +LONDON<br /><br /> +XII—2,116-8-19-25 +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>BEAUTIFUL FRANCE</h2> + +<h3>NORMANDY.</h3> + + +<p>Land of rich pastures and fashionable watering-places, +Normandy may truly be said to have been "favoured by +the gods." Her fertile soil, famous breeds of horses and +cattle, picturesque sites, and renowned sea-bathing coast have +made Normandy one of France's most flourishing provinces. +Numerous splendid monuments evoke in the tourist's mind +reminiscences of a glorious past.</p> + +<p>No region has been more lavishly adorned by Nature. +Its mountain landscapes have caused it to be surnamed +"La Petite Suisse." Among the more interesting places +may be mentioned <b>Bagnoles-de-l'Orne</b>, with its famous +mineral-water springs; <b>Rouen</b>, with its celebrated cathedral, +churches of St. Ouen and St. Maclou, Palais-de-Justice, and +port (which the war has transformed into one of the most +important in Europe); <b>Caen</b>—"Norman Athens"—with +its Romanesque churches, Renaissance mansions, and ancient +houses; the great cathedrals of <b>Sées</b>, <b>Evreux</b>, <b>Bayeux</b>, +and <b>Coutances</b>; the feudal ruins of <b>Arques</b>, <b>Château-Gaillard</b> +and <b>Falaise</b>; the Abbeys of <b>Jumièges</b> and +<b>St. Wandrille</b>; the mediaeval narrow winding streets of +<b>Lisieux</b>.</p> + +<p>Numerous sea-side resorts: <b>Dieppe</b>, <b>St. Valéry</b>, +<b>Fécamp</b>, <b>Entretat</b>, <b>Le Hâvre</b>, and <b>St. Adresse</b>, +<b>Honfleur</b>, <b>Trouville</b>, <b>Deauville</b>, <b>Villers</b>, <b>Houlgate</b>, +<b>Cabourg</b>, <b>Cherbourg</b> and <b>Grandville</b> are too widely +known to call for special mention.</p> + +<p>Lastly <b>St. Michael's Mount</b> (surnamed the "Marvel +of the West"), with its extraordinary pyramid of superimposed +Gothic monastery and Churches, built on a rock in +the middle of a deep bay.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><i>All enquiries with regard to travelling should be addressed +to the "Touring Club de France," 65, Avenue de la Grande +Armée 65, Paris.</i></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES</h2> + + +<div class="center"> +<b>MICHELIN TYRE Co., Ltd., LONDON</b><br /> +Touring Office :: 81, Fulham Road, S. W.<br /> +<br /> +<b>MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND</b><br /> +Touring Office :: 99, Bd. Péreire, PARIS<br /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 756px;"> +<img src="images/i186a.png" width="756" height="492" alt="Why ask the Way, when...." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><i>Why ask the Way, when....</i></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 834px;"> +<img src="images/i186b.png" width="834" height="537" alt="... Michelin will tell you free of charge?" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><i>... Michelin will tell you free of charge?</i></span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="blockquot">Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our +Touring Offices and you will receive a carefully +worked out description of the route to follow.</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>Hotels and Motor-Agents</h2> +<h3>at RHEIMS</h3> +<div class="center">Information extracted from the MICHELIN GUIDE (1919)<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<h4>Key to Arbitrary Signs</h4> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="right">[.][.]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Comfortable hotels with modern </td><td align="right">[.]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Repair shop.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td> </td><td align="left">or modernised installation.</td><td align="right"><i>Agt for</i></td><td> </td><td align="left">Manufacturer's agent.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">[<b>CC</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Central Heating.</td><td align="right">[<b>3</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Garage and number of cars it will hold.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">[<b>L</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Electric Light.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">[<b>B</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Bath-room.</td><td align="right"><b>U</b></td><td> </td><td align="left">Inspection pit.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">[<b>W</b>C]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Modern W.C.'s.</td><td align="right">[<b>E</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Petrol (gasoline) can be obtained here.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">[<b>T</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">104 Telephone number.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">Gar. [<b>2</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">{Accommodation for auto-</td><td align="right">[<b>E""</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">Accumulators can be recharged here.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">Shed [<b>3</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">{mobiles, and the number</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">Shelter[<b>4</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">{which can be put up.</td><td align="right">[<b>A-A</b>]</td><td> </td><td align="left">for the "British Automobile Association."</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">adj.</td><td> </td><td align="left">Adjoining the hotel.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"><b>Compressed Air</b></td><td> </td><td align="left">{Depôt for "bouteille</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td> </td><td align="left">{d'air Michelin" for</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"></td><td> </td><td align="left">{inflation of tyres.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>HOTELS</h3> +<p> +[.][.] Grand Hotel (Temporary Annex), <i>50, rue Clovis</i>, [<b>L</b>][<b>WC</b>].<br /> +[.][.] Hôtel du Nord, <i>73 and 75, Place d'Erlon</i>, [<b>L</b>][<b>WC</b>] adj. Shed [<b>3</b>] [<b>T</b>] <b>6-14</b>.<br /> +[.][.] Hôtel Continental,<i>93, Place d'Erlon</i>, [<b>L</b>][<b>WC</b>] Gar.[<b>2</b>] [<b>U</b>] Shelter [<b>4</b>][<b>T</b>] <b>147</b>.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>REPAIR MECHANICS</h3> +<p> + [.] STOCK MICHELIN (Compressed Air), <b>Vve. A. Mathieu</b>, <i>26, rue Buirette</i>.<br /> + <span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Agt for</i>: de Dion, Renault, [<b>60</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>] [<b>E"</b>] [<b>T</b>] <b>5-06</b>.</span><br /> + — STOCK MICHELIN (Compressed Air), <b>E. Devraine</b>, <i>Pl. Colin and 220, rue de</i><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Vesle</i>, [<b>50</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>] [<b>E"</b>] [<b>A-A</b>] [<b>T</b>] <b>6-16</b>.</span><br /> + — STOCK MICHELIN, <b>Auto-Electro-Mécanique Lemaire</b>, <i>10, rue</i><br /> + <span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Hincmer, near the Cathedral</i>, [<b>20</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>] [<b>E"</b>] [<b>T</b>] <b>2-77</b>.</span><br /> + — Garage Central, L. Jeannon, <i>57, rue des Capucins</i>, [<b>40</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>] [<b>E"</b>].<br /> + — Jacques d'Anglemont de Tassigny, <i>181, rue de Vesle</i>, [<b>10]</b> [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>].<br /> + — Auto-Palace (de Balliencourt), <i>35, rue de Bétheny</i>, [<b>10</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>] [<b>E"</b>].<br /> + — Gaston Etienne, <i>11, rue Chanzy</i>, [<b>10</b>] [<b>U</b>] [<b>E</b>].<br /> + — M. Triquenot & C^{ie}, <i>9, rue des Moissons</i>, [<b>3</b>] [<b>E</b>].<br /> + — E. Caënen, <i>8, rue Heidsieck</i>, [<b>3</b>] [<b>E</b>].<br /> + — Brouard & Colmart, <i>20, rue de Savoye</i>, [<b>4</b>] [<b>E</b>].<br /> + — Dieudonné, Cycles, <i>53, rue de Mars</i>.<br /> + — Doyen Fréres, Cycles, <i>52, rue de Céres</i>.<br /> + — Guérard, Cycles, <i>81, rue de Neuchâtel</i>.<br /> + — Boissel, Cycles, <i>122, bis rue de Gambetta</i>.<br /> + — Siron, Cycles, <i>80, Avenue de Laon</i>.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h3>CAR MANUFACTURERS</h3> +<p> +[.] Panhard-Levassor Works, <i>83, rue Ernest-Renan</i>.<br /> +— Société des Automobiles Brasier Works, <i>2, rue de Sillery</i>.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> +<i>The above information dates from June 1st, 1919, and may no longer +be exact when it meets the reader's eye. Tourists are therefore recommended to +consult the latest edition of the "Michelin Guide to France" (English or French), +before setting out on the tour described in this volume.</i> +</p></div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<div class="bboxsmall"> +THE MICHELIN TOURING OFFICE +at 81, Fulham Road, Chelsea, LONDON, +S.W. 3, will be pleased to furnish +motorists with advice and information +free of charge.<br /><br /> +<div class="center"> +<i>Special itineraries free, on request.</i> +</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1179px;"> +<img src="images/i187.png" width="1179" height="2124" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> + +<p>Click on the map following page 32 to display a high-resolution image.</p> + +<p>Errors of punctuation and diacritics have been repaired.</p> + +<p>Hyphens removed: "day[-]break" (page 32), "master[-]piece" (page 50), +"net[-]work" (page 167), "wood[-]work" (pages 72, 144, 146).</p> + +<p>Hyphens added: "key-stones" (page 132), "pre[-]historic" (page 18), +"timber[-]work" (page 85).</p> + +<p>The following words appear once each with and without hyphens +and have not been changed: "day[-]break", "hand[-]rail", "iron[-]work", +"stone[-]work".</p> + +<p>Page 9: "Witry-les-Rheims" changed to "Witry-les-Reims".</p> + +<p>Page 13: "seperate" changed to "separate" (On three separate occasions).</p> + +<p>Page 23: "helmet" changed to "helmets" (They were supplied with helmets).</p> + +<p>Page 55: "railling" changed to "railing" (wrought-iron railing).</p> + +<p>Page 79 (caption): "of" added (supposed to be likenesses of).</p> + +<p>Page 136: "roads" changed to "road" (The road turns abruptly).</p> + +<p>Page 147: "Villers-Farnqueux" changed to "Villers-Franqueux".</p> + +<p>Page 156: "Germas" changed to "Germans" (re-taken by the Germans).</p> + +<p>Page 157 (caption of photo): "BÉTHANY" changed to "BÉTHENY".</p> + +<p>Page 161: "earthern" changed to "earthen" (earthen ramparts).</p> + +<p>Page 164 (title), page 176 (TOC): "l'Abesse" changed to "l'Abbesse".</p> + +<p>Page 167: "per-war" changed to "pre-war" (retained its pre-war aspect).</p> + +<p>Page 172: "Heidsick" changed to "Heidsieck" (champagne-wine firm of Heidsieck).</p> + +<p>Note: All the above errors except for those on pages 9, 161, 172 were corrected +in the 1920 edition of the book.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rheims and the Battles for its +Possession, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RHEIMS *** + +***** This file should be named 36885-h.htm or 36885-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/8/8/36885/ + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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