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+      A. H. Savage Landor - Alone With The Hairy Ainu (The Project Gutenberg eBook)
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Alone with the Hairy Ainu, by A. H. Savage Landor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Alone with the Hairy Ainu
+       or, 3,800 miles on a pack saddle in Yezo and a cruise to
+              the Kurile Islands.
+
+Author: A. H. Savage Landor
+
+Release Date: October 28, 2011 [EBook #37873]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ALONE WITH THE HAIRY AINU ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs, LN Yaddanapudi and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>ALONE WITH THE
+HAIRY AINU.</h1>
+
+<h4>OR,</h4>
+
+<h3>3,800 MILES ON A PACK SADDLE IN YEZO AND
+A CRUISE TO THE KURILE ISLANDS.</h3>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+<h2>A. H. SAVAGE LANDOR.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 217px;">
+<img src="images/illus-titlepage.jpg" width="217" height="111" alt="" /></div>
+
+<h4>WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR.</h4>
+
+<h3>LONDON:<br />
+JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br />
+1893.</h3>
+
+<hr class="r65" />
+
+<h3>LONDON:<br />
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br />
+STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</h3>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;">
+<a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a><img src="images/illus-frontispiece.jpg" width="368" height="528" title="PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR." alt="PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR." />
+<span class="caption">
+PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR.<br />
+&quot;When my clothes came to an end I did without them.&quot;</span></div>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="./images/illus-map.jpg"><img src="images/illus-map-inline.jpg" width="600" height="462" title="Map of Hokkaido island" alt="Map of Hokkaido island" /></a></div>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></p>
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>This book is not meant as a literary work, for I am not
+and do not pretend to be a literary man. It is but a record&mdash;an
+amplified log-book, as it were&mdash;of what befell me during
+my solitary peregrinations in Hokkaido, and a collection of
+notes and observations which I hope will prove interesting to
+anthropologists and ethnologists as well as to the general
+public.</p>
+
+<p>Without any claim to infallibility I have tried to take an
+open-minded and sensible view of everything I have attempted
+to describe; in most cases, however, I have given facts without
+passing an opinion at all, and all I have said I have tried
+to express as simply and plainly as possible, so as not to give
+rise to misunderstandings.</p>
+
+<p>There are a few points which I want to make quite clear.</p>
+
+<p>First, that I went to Hokkaido entirely on my own account
+and for my own satisfaction. Next, that I accomplished the
+whole journey (some 4200 miles, out of which 3800 were
+ridden on horseback and on a rough pack-saddle) perfectly
+alone. By alone I mean that I had with me no friends, no
+servants, and no guides. My baggage consisted of next to
+nothing, so far as articles for my own convenience or comfort
+were concerned. I carried no provisions and no tent.</p>
+
+<p>I am endowed with a very sensitive nature, and I pride
+myself in possessing the gift of adaptability to an extreme
+degree, and this may partly explain why and how I could live
+so long with and like the Ainu, whose habits and customs, as
+my readers will see, are somewhat different to ours.</p>
+
+<p>When I go to a country I do my best to be like one of the
+natives themselves, and, whether they are savage or not, I
+endeavour to show respect for them and their ideas, and to
+conform to their customs for the time being. I make up my
+mind that what is good for them must be good enough for
+me, and though I have occasionally had to swear at myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>
+for "doing in Ainuland as the Ainu does," especially as
+regards the food, I was not much the worse for it in the
+end. I never use force when I can win with kindness, and
+in my small experience in Hokkaido and other countries I
+have always found that real savages in their simplicity are
+most "gentleman-like" people. With few exceptions they are
+good-natured, dignified, and sensible, and the chances are that
+if you are fair to them they will be fair to you. Civilised
+savages and barbarians I always found untrustworthy and
+dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>The Island of Yezo, with the smaller islands near its coast,
+and the Kurile group, taken together, are called "the
+Hokkaido." The Hokkaido extends roughly from 41° to 51°
+latitude north, and between 139° and 157° longitude east
+of Greenwich.</p>
+
+<p>My view of the origin of the word Ainu is this: <i>Ainu</i> is
+but a corruption or abbreviation of <i>Ai-num</i>, "they with hair,"
+or "hairy men," or else of <i>Hain-num</i>, "come with hair," or
+"descended hairy." Considering that the Ainu pride themselves
+above all things on their hairiness, it does not seem
+improbable to me that this may be the correct origin of the
+word, and that they called themselves after the distinguishing
+characteristic of their race.</p>
+
+<p>The word Ainu is a generic term, and is used both in the
+singular and plural; but when specifying, the words <i>Kuru</i>
+(people, men), <i>utaragesh</i> (woman), etc., are generally added to
+it: viz., <i>Ainu kuru</i>, Ainu people, Ainu men; <i>Ainu utaragesh</i>,
+an Ainu woman; <i>Ainu utaragesh utara</i>, several Ainu women.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu population of Yezo is roughly reckoned by the
+Japanese at about 15,000 or 17,000 souls, but at least half
+this number are half-castes, and in my opinion (and I have
+visited nearly every Ainu village in Yezo) the number of
+thoroughbred Ainu does not exceed 8000 souls.</p>
+
+<p>The illustrations in this book are my own, and are the
+reproductions from sketches which I took on the spot. They
+may not show much artistic merit, but they seem to me to be
+characteristic of the country and the people, and I hope that
+my readers will be impressed with them in the same way.</p>
+
+<p class="smcap">A. Henry Savage Landor.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="toc">
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER I.</li>
+<li class="sh">From Hakodate to Mororran&mdash;Volcano Bay&mdash;The first Ainu&mdash;A
+strange institution among them        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER II.</li>
+<li class="sh">From Mororran to the Saru River        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER III.</li>
+<li class="sh">Up the Saru River&mdash;Piratori and its chief        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER IV.</li>
+<li class="sh">An Ainu Festival        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER V.</li>
+<li class="sh">From the Saru River to Cape Erimo        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER VI.</li>
+<li class="sh">From Cape Erimo to the Tokachi River        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER VII.</li>
+<li class="sh">The Tokachi Region&mdash;Pure Ainu Types&mdash;Curious Mode of River
+Fishing        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER VIII.</li>
+<li class="sh">From the Tokachi River to the Kutcharo River        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER IX.</li>
+<li class="sh"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>The Koro-pok-kuru, or Pit-dwellers        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER X.</li>
+<li class="sh">The Kutcharo River and Lake&mdash;A Sulphur Mine&mdash;Akkeshi and
+its Bay        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XI.</li>
+<li class="sh">From Akkeshi to Nemuro&mdash;A Horse Station&mdash;Nemuro and its
+People       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XII.</li>
+<li class="sh">The Kurile Islands       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XIII.</li>
+<li class="sh">On the East and North-East Coast&mdash;From Nemuro to Shari-Mombets       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XIV.</li>
+<li class="sh">Along the Lagoons of the North-East Coast&mdash;From Shari-Mombets
+to Poronai       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XV.</li>
+<li class="sh">On the North-East Coast&mdash;From Poronai to Cape Soya       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XVI.</li>
+<li class="sh">From Cape Soya to the Ishikari River       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XVII.</li>
+<li class="sh">The Ishikari River       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XVIII.</li>
+<li class="sh">Nearing Civilisation       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XIX.</li>
+<li class="sh">Completing the Circuit of Yezo&mdash;The End of my Journey       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XX.</li>
+<li class="sh">Ainu Habitations, Storehouses, Trophies, Furniture&mdash;Conservatism       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_207">207</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXI.</li>
+<li class="sh">Ainu Art, Ainu Marks, Ornamentations, Weapons&mdash;Graves and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span>Tattoos       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXII.</li>
+<li class="sh">Ainu Heads, and their Physiognomy       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXIII.</li>
+<li class="sh">Movements and Attitudes       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXIV.</li>
+<li class="sh">Ainu Clothes, Ornaments, and Tattooing       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXV.</li>
+<li class="sh">Ainu Music, Poetry, and Dancing       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXVI.</li>
+<li class="sh">Heredity&mdash;Crosses&mdash;Psychological Observations       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_266">266</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXVII.</li>
+<li class="sh">Physiological Observations&mdash;Pulse-beat and Respiration&mdash;Exposure&mdash;Odour
+of the Ainu&mdash;The Five Senses      <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXVIII.</li>
+<li class="sh">The Ainu Superstitions&mdash;Morals&mdash;Laws and Punishments       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">CHAPTER XXIX.</li>
+<li class="sh">Marital Relations, and Causes that limit Population       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_293">293</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap">APPENDIX.</li>
+<li class="sh">I.&mdash;Measurements of the Ainu Body, and Descriptive Characters       298</li>
+<li class="sh">II.&mdash;Glossary of Ainu Words, many of which are found in Geographical
+Names in Yezo and the Kurile Islands       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_304">304</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="chap"><span class="smcap">Index</span>       <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_313">313</a></span></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></p>
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="toc">
+<li>Portrait of the Author    <span class="ralign"><a href="#frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece.</i></a></span></li>
+
+<li>Aputa        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Woman saluting        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_6">6</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Toya Lake, near Aputa        <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Fisherman's Hut         <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Pack-Saddle          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Norboribets Volcano           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Horobets           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Storehouses at Piratori          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Benry, the Ainu Chief of Piratori          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Man waving his Moustache-lifter
+before drinking          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Festival, An           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Women dancing          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Piratori Woman in Costume          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Utarop Rocks           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Lashed Canoe          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Front View of Lashed Canoe           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Oars            <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Sailing Canoe           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Wooden Anchors           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Canoe, Top View of an          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Erimo Cape          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Natural Stone Archway, A          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Iwa Rocks at Biru           <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Houses and Storehouse, Frishikobets, Tokachi River            <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Madwoman of Yammakka          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Woman of Frishikobets, on the Tokachi River          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Shikarubets Otchirsh, The          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Man of the Upper Tokachi          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Hook for Smoking Bear-Meat          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Koro-pok-kuru Fort          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Flint Arrow-Heads          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Flint Knives          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Koro-pok-kuru Pottery and Fragments of Designs          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Stone Adzes and Hammer          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Huts and Storehouses on Kutcharo Lake          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Kutcharo Lake from Mount Yuzan          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Sulphur Mine          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Akkeshi in a Fog          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Man and Woman on Horseback          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Bits          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Semi-Ainu Rat Trap          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Woman of the Kurile Islands          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Shikotan Ainu          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Woman of the Kurile Islands          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_132">132</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Abashiri Island          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Belle, An          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Saruma Lagoon          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Eagle-displayed Sable, An          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></span></li>
+
+<li>My Host, the Madman          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Sarubuts, showing River-Course altered by Drift Sand          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Village on the East
+Coast of Yezo          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Mashike Mountain          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ishikari Kraftu Ainu          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_178">178</a></span></li>
+
+<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span>Kamui Kotan Rapids, The          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Woman of Ishikari River          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Bark Water Jugs          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Half-caste Child of Volcano Bay          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_194">194</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Komatage Volcano, Volcano Bay          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Wooden Drinking Vessels          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_207">207</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Kammakappe, The, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ahunkanitte, The, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Atzis-Cloth in process of Weaving          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Roasting Hook          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ape-Kilai, The, or Earth-Rake          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_214">214</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Pestle, Mortar, Spoon, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Pipe Holder and Tobacco Pouch          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Knife, with ornamented Sheath, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Kike-ush-bashui, or Moustache-Lifters          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Suggestions of Leaves, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_221">221</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Elaborations of Chevrons, Wave Patterns, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Tchutti, or War-Clubs, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Knives          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Monuments for Women          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Wooden Monuments over Men's Grave          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Wooden Blade          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_226">226</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Pipe, An          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Man walking with Snow-Shoes          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Thiaske-Tarra, The          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_238">238</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Atzis, The          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Atzis, after Japanese Pattern          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Winter Bear-skin Coat          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Atzis, Back of          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_246">246</a></span></li>
+
+<li>"Hoshi," The          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_247">247</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Boots, Deer-Skin Shoe, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_248">248</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Tattoo-marks on Women's Arms          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Snow-Shoes          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_254">254</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Ainu Salutation          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></span></li>
+
+<li>"Mukko," A, or Musical Instrument          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_258">258</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Wooden Pipe, A          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Naked Ainu Man from the North-East Coast of Yezo          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Trophy of Bears' Skulls          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Inao-netuba, &amp;c.          <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_292">292</a></span></li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 363px;">
+<img src="images/illus-001.jpg" width="363" height="220" alt="APUTA" />
+<span class="caption">APUTA.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I.<br />
+<span class="small">From Hakodate to Mororran&mdash;Volcano Bay&mdash;The first Ainu&mdash;A strange
+Institution among them.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>I have often asked myself <i>why</i> I went to Yezo; and, when
+there, what possessed me to undertake the laborious task of
+going round the island, up its largest rivers, travelling through
+jungles and round lakes, climbing its highest peaks, and then
+proceeding to the Kuriles. There are certain things in one's
+life that cannot be accounted for, and the journey which I am
+going to relate is one of them.</p>
+
+<p>Pleasure and rest were the two principal objects which had
+primarily induced me to steer northwards; but it was my fate
+not to get either the one or the other.</p>
+
+<p>I was on the Japanese ship the <i>Satsuma Maru</i>. Rapidly
+nearing the Hakodate Head, which we soon passed, we entered
+the well-protected bay and the town of Hakodate at the
+foot of the Peak came into view. It looked extremely pretty,
+with its paper-walled houses and its tiled roofs, set against
+the background of brown rock with its fringe of green at
+the foot. As we cast anchor, hundreds of coolies, carrying
+on their backs loads of dried fish and seaweed, were running
+along the <i>bund</i> or wharf. A few <i>musemes</i> (girls), in their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>
+pretty <i>kimonos</i> (gowns) and with oil-paper umbrellas, were
+toddling along on their wooden clogs, and a crowd of loafers
+stood gazing at the ship as she came to anchor. The Peak,
+more than 1000 feet high, was towering on our south side,
+forming a peninsula, joined to the mainland by a sandy
+isthmus, and the large bay swept round us, forming nearly a
+circle. The place has a striking resemblance to Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<p>I landed, and put up at a tea-house, where I was in hopes
+of learning something regarding the island from the Japanese
+settlers, but no one knew anything. The reports that there
+were no roads extending beyond a few miles; that there was
+but very poor and scarce accommodation along the coast;
+that the Ainu, who lived further north, were dirty people; and
+that the country was full of bears, were certainly not encouraging
+to an intending traveller.</p>
+
+<p>I must confess that my first day in Yezo was a dull one;
+but the second day I had the pleasure of meeting a Mr. H., a
+resident, who kindly offered me his hospitality, and the next
+two were pleasantly spent at his house. In conversation
+with a friend of his, I heard the remark that no man alone
+could possibly complete the circuit of the island of Yezo,
+owing to the difficulties of travel; and my readers can imagine
+the astonishment of my interlocutors when I meekly said, that
+if no one had ever done it, I was going to do it; and, indeed,
+that I intended to set out alone the next morning.</p>
+
+<p>"Impossible!" said one, "you are too young and too
+delicate."</p>
+
+<p>"Absurd!" said my kind host, "it would take a very strong
+man to do it&mdash;a man who could stand any amount of hardships
+and roughing." At the same time he gave me a pitiful
+look, which undoubtedly meant, "You are a mere bag of skin
+and bones."</p>
+
+<p>However, the bag of skin and bones kept his word, notwithstanding
+the poor opinion that his new friends had
+formed of him.</p>
+
+<p>The preparations for my journey were simple. In two
+large Japanese baskets I packed three hundred small wooden
+panels for oil-painting, a large supply of oil colours and
+brushes, a dozen small sketch-books, my diary, three pairs of
+boots, three shirts, an equal number of pairs of woollen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>
+stockings, a revolver, and a hundred cartridges. The remainder
+of my luggage was left in charge of Mr. H. till my
+return. I did not burden myself with either provisions or
+a tent.</p>
+
+<p>I rose early the following morning and bade good-bye to
+my kind host. "Good-bye," said he, "I expect we shall see
+you back to-night to dinner." The word "dinner" was the
+last English word I heard from the mouth of an Englishman,
+and it was five long months before I heard another.</p>
+
+<p>The first thirty miles of my journey were ridden in a
+<i>basha</i>, a covered cart built on four wheels that ought to have
+been round, but were not. There were no springs for the
+comfort of the traveller, and no cushions on the seats. The
+conveyance was public, and was drawn by two sturdy ponies.
+The driver, a Japanese, carried a brass trumpet, on which he
+continually played.</p>
+
+<p>I might have begun my story by the usual "One fine day,"
+if, unfortunately, the day on which I started the rain had not
+poured in torrents. A Japanese policeman and a girl were my
+only fellow-passengers. Travelling at full gallop, on a rough
+road, in a trap with unsymmetrical wheels and with no springs,
+during a heavy storm, is scarcely what one would call a
+pleasant mode of progression; but after some hours of "being
+knocked about," we went zig-zag fashion, first up a steep hill,
+then down on the other side, giving the horses a rest at a
+roadside tea-house by the famous lakes of Zenzai. The larger
+of these two lakes&mdash;the Ko-numa&mdash;is extremely picturesque,
+with its numerous little islands wooded with deciduous trees.
+In shape it is very irregular, and many points, which project
+into the lake, add to the loveliness of the scene, while the
+high ridge over which I had come, on the one side, and the
+rugged volcano of Komagatake on the other, form a beautiful
+background to the limpid sheet of water. The outlet of this
+lake empties itself into Volcano Bay, S.E. of the Komagatake
+Volcano. The other lake, though smaller, is quite as striking,
+and possesses the same characteristics of its larger brother.
+It goes by the name of Ono-numa. A peculiarity of these
+lakes is that they abound in a smallish fish&mdash;the <i>funa</i>&mdash;which
+is greatly appreciated by the Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>I sat down in the tea-house on the soft mats, and my <i>bento</i>&mdash;Japanese<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+lunch&mdash;was served to me on a tiny table. There
+was water soup; there was sea-weed; there was a bowl of
+rice, and raw fish. The fish&mdash;a small <i>funa</i>&mdash;was in a diminutive
+dish and its back was covered by a leaf; the head projected
+over the side of the plate. On the leaf were placed
+several neatly-cut pieces of the raw flesh, which had apparently
+been removed from the back of the underlying animal. As I
+had been long accustomed to Japanese food of this kind I ate
+to my heart's content, when, to my great horror, the <i>funa</i>,
+which had been staring at me with its round eyes, relieved of
+the weight that had passed from its back into my digestive
+organs, leaped up, leaf and all, from the dish and fell on the
+mat. All the vital parts had carefully been left in the fish, and
+the wretched creature was still alive!</p>
+
+<p>"Horrible!" I cried, violently pushing away the table and
+walking out disgusted, to the great surprise of the people
+present, who expected me to revel in the deliciousness of
+the dish.</p>
+
+<p>For days and days after I could see in my mind the staring
+eyes of the <i>funa</i>, watching each movement of my chopsticks,
+and its own back being eaten piecemeal! Wherever I went
+this big eye stood before me, and increased or diminished in
+size according to my being more or less lonely, more or less
+hungry. I had often eaten raw fish before, but never had I
+eaten live fish!</p>
+
+<p>The journey in the <i>basha</i> was resumed that afternoon, and,
+more dead than alive, I alighted in the evening at Mori, a
+small Japanese village at the foot of the Komagatake
+Volcano. The peak of this mountain is 4000 feet above the
+level of the sea, but its basin-like crater is at a somewhat
+lower altitude. Up to a certain height it is thickly wooded
+with deciduous trees and firs, thence its slopes are bare of
+vegetation, rugged in form, and very rich in colour. It makes
+part of a volcanic mass which extends from the Esan Volcano,
+further south, to the limit of the Shiribeshi province, crossing
+straight through the province of Oshima as far as the Yurapdake
+Mountain. Komagatake is one of the most majestic and
+picturesque mountains I have ever seen, as it possesses lovely
+lines on nearly every side. Its isolation and sudden sharp
+elevation, rising as it does directly from the sea, gives, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>
+a grand appearance to its weird and sterile slopes, which are
+covered with warmly-tinted cinders, pumice, and lava.</p>
+
+<p>I went over to Mororran, across Volcano Bay, and the
+following morning I risked my life on a small craft, which
+took me over to Mombets. From this place I rode on to
+Uso and Aputa, two Ainu villages at a short distance from
+each other.</p>
+
+<p>Coming from Japan the first thing that strikes a traveller in
+the Ainu country is the odour of dried fish, which one can
+smell everywhere; the next is the great number of crows&mdash;the
+scavengers of the country; lastly, the volcanic nature of
+the island. On visiting an Ainu village what impressed me
+most were the miserable and filthy huts, compared with the
+neat and clean Japanese houses; the poverty and almost appalling
+dirt of the people and their gentle, submissive nature.</p>
+
+<p>I shall not dwell at length on these Volcano Bay Ainu, as
+this part of the country is comparatively civilised, and has
+been travelled over by many people previous to my going
+there. Besides, most of them have intermarried with Japanese,
+and have consequently adopted many Japanese customs and
+manners.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu of the coast build their huts generally on a single
+line, near the shore, and each family has its "dug out" canoe
+drawn up on the beach, ready to hand when wanted. The
+huts are small and miserable-looking, and they have no
+furniture or bedding to speak of. The roof and walls are
+thatched with <i>arundinaria</i>, but so imperfectly that wind and
+rain find easy access through their reedy covering. Curiosity
+is the only good quality which I ever possessed, and in obedience
+to it I poked my nose into several of the huts along
+the beach. This was a mistake on my part, for in the Ainu
+country the nose is the last thing one ought to poke in anywhere.
+I was more than astonished to see how human beings
+could live in such filth! The natives kindly asked me to enter,
+and I of course did so, stooping low through the small door and
+raising the mat which protects the aperture. When I was in
+I could smell a great deal more than I could see, for the east
+window&mdash;the size of a small handkerchief, and the only one in
+the hut&mdash;did not give light enough to illuminate the premises.
+However, I soon got accustomed to the dimness, and then I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+could make out my surroundings clearly enough. There was
+an old man, perfectly naked, with a fine head, long white
+hair and beard, sitting on the ground among a mass of seaweeds,
+which he was disentangling and packing. Two young
+women and two young men, with bright, intelligent eyes and
+high cheek-bones, were helping him in his work. In their
+quiet, gentle way they all brought their hands forward, each
+rubbed the palms together, and, lifting the arms, slowly
+stroked their hair, and the men their beard with the backs of
+their hands, while the women rubbed the first finger under
+the nose from the left to the right.
+This is their salutation, and it
+is most graceful. They seemed
+pleased to see me, and asked me
+to sit down. As there were neither
+chairs nor sofas, stools nor cushions,
+I squatted on the ground.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 146px;">
+<img src="images/illus-006.jpg" width="146" height="122" alt="AINU WOMAN SALUTING" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AINU WOMAN SALUTING.</span></div>
+
+<p>Most Ainu of Volcano Bay
+understand Japanese, and they also
+speak it, interpolating Ainu words
+when necessary, so I began a conversation.
+My presence did not seem to disturb them or
+arouse their curiosity, and, beyond gazing at the mother-of-pearl
+buttons on my white coat, they did not appear to be
+struck by me. Evidently the buttons were much more
+interesting to them than the person who wore them. Now
+and then they uttered a few words, but whenever one spoke
+some of the company seemed to be angry, as at an impertinence
+or a breach of etiquette. Men and women wore large ear-rings
+or pieces of red or black cloth, which added a great deal to
+their picturesqueness; but the women were disfigured by a long
+moustache tattooed across the face from ear to ear. Rough
+drawings adorn the arms and hands of the women, and some
+of the younger females would undoubtedly be fine-looking if
+not disfigured by the tattoos, for they carry themselves well
+when walking, and possess comely features. Judging from
+appearances, I should think them very passionate.</p>
+
+<p>Coming out of the hut I saw a scene which I shall never
+forget. Two naked boys, covered with horrible skin eruptions,
+had got hold of a large fish-bone, out of which they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>
+were endeavouring to make a meal. Round them were
+gathered about thirty dogs, wild with hunger, barking furiously
+at the frightened children, and attacking and fighting them
+for that miserable repast.</p>
+
+<p>I walked along the beach, and endeavoured to make
+friends with some of the Ainu who were less shy than the
+others. One little girl was especially picturesque. She was
+only about ten, and her large eyes, tanned complexion, white
+teeth, the tiny bluish-black tattoo on her upper lip, her
+uncombed long black hair flying around her, and her red
+cloth ear-rings, made her indeed one of the quaintest studies
+of colour that I have seen in my life. I got her to sit for
+me; and while I was painting her, an old man, the chief of
+the village, dressed up in a gaudy costume, with a crown of
+willow shavings on his head, came to me and made his
+"salaams." He bore the name of Angotsuro, and before all
+his salaams were over he found himself "caught in the action"
+in my sketch-book. Many of the villagers had collected
+round, and one of them, a half-caste, expressed the wish that
+I should paint the chief in colours, like the picture of the girl.
+I asked for nothing better, and started an oil-sketch of him.
+The excitement of the natives who were witnessing the operation
+grew greater and greater as each new ornament in the
+chief's dress was put in the picture. Some seemed to approve
+of it, others were grumpy, and apparently objected to the
+picture being taken at all. The <i>séance</i> was indeed a stormy
+one; and though the chief had his regal crown knocked off his
+head two or three times by the anti-artistic party, he sat well
+for his likeness, especially as I promised him in Japanese, that
+when the picture was completed he should be given a few
+coins and two buttons off my coat.</p>
+
+<p>It was while portraying him that I noticed what extraordinary
+effects colours produce on those whose eyes are
+unaccustomed to them. A man in the crowd would get
+excited, and open his eyes wide and show his teeth every
+time I happened to touch with my brush the cobalt blue on
+my palette. Other colours had not the same effect on him.
+His eyes were continually fixed on the blue, anxiously waiting
+for the brush to dip in it, and this would then send him into
+fits of merriment. I squeezed some blue paint from a tube on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+to the palm of his hand, and he nearly went off his head with
+delight. He sprang and jumped and yelled, and then ran
+some way off, where he squatted on the sand, still in admiration
+of the blue dab on his hand, still grinning at intervals
+with irrepressible enjoyment. Where the point of the joke
+was no one but himself ever knew.</p>
+
+<p>When the picture was finished I had no little trouble to
+keep the many fingers of my audience off the wet painting.
+Moreover, some person endowed with kindly feelings threw
+a handful of sand in my face, which nearly blinded me for
+the moment and partly ruined the two pictures I had painted.
+The money and the buttons were duly paid to Angotsuro
+and I moved on.</p>
+
+<p>That same evening I went out for a walk. It was a very
+dark night, and I love dark nights. When for some years
+you have done nothing but see strange things and new places
+there is indeed a great fascination in going about in complete
+darkness; it rests both your eyes and your brain. I
+walked for some time along the beach, stumbling against the
+canoes drawn on shore and against anything that was in my
+way. Hut after hut was passed, but everything was silent;
+there was not a sound to be heard, not a light to be seen.
+The Ainu are early people; they retire with the sun. I
+walked on yet farther and farther afield, till through the
+thatched wall of one of the huts I discerned a faint light.
+I stood and listened. The sad voice of a man was singing
+a weird, weird song, the weirdest song I have ever heard.
+Then came a pause, and another voice, even more plaintive
+than the first, continued the same air.</p>
+
+<p>What with the strange melody in the hut, the soothing
+noise of the waves gently breaking on the shingle, and the
+distant howling of dogs or wolves, the mystic effect was such
+that I could not resist the temptation, and I crept into the
+hut. A fire was burning in the centre, but it had almost gone
+out, leaving a lot of smoke. Three old men were sitting on
+the ground. They decidedly looked as if they did not expect
+me, but, after their first astonishment was over, they asked me
+to squat down in a corner, and there I was left to amuse
+myself, while they resumed their singing and drinking. Of the
+latter they seemed to have had enough already; but, all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+same, several wooden bowls, about five inches in diameter
+and two deep, were passed round and emptied in no time.
+The more they drank, the wilder and more melancholy the
+song became. Only one at a time sang, and he would begin
+in a very low tone of voice and go up in a <i>crescendo</i>, gradually
+getting awfully excited; then all at once he would stop, as if
+the effort had been too great for him. His head drooped, and
+he seemed to sleep. Then, suddenly waking up, coming back
+to his full senses in a startling manner, he drained one of the
+bowls, which meantime had been refilled, and resumed the song.
+The three men were facing each other, and so absorbed were
+they in their music that, though I was not more than four feet
+away from them, they seemed to have forgotten me altogether.</p>
+
+<p>I was so impressed with the strangeness of the song that I
+pulled out my pencil and paper to write down the air. As there
+was no light but the flicker of the fire, I turned the white leaf
+of my sketch-book toward it to see what I was writing. This
+caught the eye of one of the men. He woke up, startled from
+his musical dream, jumped to his feet, and made a dash for
+me, yelling some words which I did not understand, and holding
+over my head something that I could not distinguish at
+the moment owing to the dimness of the light. Standing thus
+he paused, evidently waiting for an answer to something he
+had said. It came from one of the other fellows, who pushed
+him so violently as to send him sprawling on the floor, while,
+what he held in his hand&mdash;a big, heavy, pointed knife&mdash;fell
+and stuck deep in the ground about an inch from my toes.
+A dispute arose among themselves, but among the Ainu everything
+ends up in a drink. The large wooden bowls were again
+refilled; grand bows were made to me, and they all stroked their
+hair and beard several times&mdash;a sign of great respect. I was
+then handed one of the bowls and made to swallow the contents.
+But, heavens! never have I felt any liquid work its way down
+so far. Had I swallowed fire it could not have been as bad;
+and, indeed, it was neither more nor less than liquid fire.</p>
+
+<p>As the night was wearing fast, and the old fellows had got
+on well with their drink, the sing-song became rather too
+languid and monotonous; and I crept out of the hut as
+quietly as I had entered it, not without first giving the
+inmates something for their trouble. I had some difficulty in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>
+finding my way back to my less musical quarters; and passing
+too close to some of the other huts, the dogs&mdash;which infest all
+Ainu villages&mdash;barked furiously and roused the whole place.</p>
+
+<p>I learned afterwards that it is an Ainu fashion to try a
+man's courage. This is done in the way in which my musical
+friends tried mine, namely, by making a sudden rush with a
+knife as if death and destruction were imminent, which to
+a perfect stranger, unconscious of the strain of "bluff" in the
+action, is not very reassuring. If the person to be tested is
+aware of this fashion he has to submit to an unlimited number
+of whacks, administered to him on his bare back, with a heavy
+war-club. These tests of a man's courage and endurance are
+called the <i>Ukorra</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the first instance it is done, in a certain sense, good-naturedly,
+and not meaning to hurt one. Should, however,
+the person apparently so dangerously threatened show fright or
+signs of cowardice, he loses the respect of the Ainu, unless he has
+the happy thought of giving them a sufficient quantity of some
+intoxicating liquor to make them all drunk&mdash;which is a sure
+means of turning the most inimical Ainu you may meet into
+your fast friend, even if you have had a deadly feud with him.</p>
+
+<p>The second way&mdash;with the war-club&mdash;of course is a painful
+process, and the Ainu have recourse to it when it is necessary
+to determine the relative amount of courage possessed by
+certain members of a community. The one that can stand the
+greater number of blows is naturally entitled to the respect
+and admiration of his neighbours, and he is elected leader in
+bear-hunts or similar expeditions. At the election of a new
+chief&mdash;when the chief's line of descendants dies out&mdash;this
+process, I was told, is often practised; for bravery is the first
+quality which an Ainu chief must possess.</p>
+
+<p>At Aputa, through some of the half-castes, I was able to
+pick up a great number of Ainu words, which were most
+useful to me afterwards; and from that, gradually increasing
+my stock of words, I soon knew enough to understand a little
+and also to make myself understood.</p>
+
+<p>One day I went along the coast to the next village of
+Repun, and then retraced my steps to Aputa, as there was
+nothing of interest at the former place.</p>
+
+<p>An excursion which I enjoyed more was to the Toya Lake,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>
+with its three pretty islands in the centre and the magnificent
+Uso Volcano on its southern shores. The walk there and
+back was hardly fifteen miles, over a mountain track and
+through forests of pine-trees and oaks. The lake is about
+250 feet above the level of the sea, and is about five miles in
+diameter. Its shores are surrounded with thickly-wooded
+hills, which have grassy terraces at a certain altitude, extending
+especially towards the north-western shores of the lake.
+The barren Uso Volcano, with its sterile slopes, is a great
+contrast to the beautiful green of the comparatively luxuriant
+vegetation of the lower altitudes. The lake finds an outlet
+into the Osaru River by means of a high waterfall.</p>
+
+<p>The following day I rode back to Mombets, and the next on to
+Shin-Mororran (the <i>new</i> Mororran, distinguished by this affix
+from Kiu-Mororran, the <i>old</i> settlement on the northern shore).</p>
+
+<p>Mororran has a well-protected harbour, and it would be the
+best future port in Hokkaido if the anchorage were of a larger
+capacity. In more speculative hands than the Japanese this
+port would be a great rival to Hakodate. It consists of a
+thickly-wooded peninsula, which forms a well-sheltered bay, at
+the entrance of which the picturesque island of Daikuku stands
+high above the sea-level. In the harbour itself, smaller islets
+and huge rocks contribute to its beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The village of Mororran is a mere streak of fourth-rate tea-houses
+along the road by the side of the cliffs. Apart from
+the natural loveliness of the harbour, it has, indeed, no claims to
+consideration at present. In former days it was called by the
+Ainu, Tokri-moi, "the home of the seals," for these valuable
+amphibious animals were said to be then plentiful in the bay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 238px;">
+<img src="images/illus-011.jpg" width="238" height="130" alt="TOYA LAKE, NEAR APUTA" />
+<span class="caption">TOYA LAKE, NEAR APUTA.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;">
+<img src="images/illus-012.jpg" width="361" height="289" alt="FISHERMAN'S HUT" />
+<span class="caption">FISHERMAN&#39;S HUT.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II.<br />
+<span class="small">From Mororran to the Saru River.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Thirteen more miles in a <i>basha</i>&mdash;for I was still in civilised
+regions&mdash;took me to Horobets&mdash;a village half Ainu and half
+Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu often name their villages after rivers, and this
+word Horobets, which in English means "large river," is an
+instance of this custom. In Southern Japan, previous to my
+visiting Yezo, I was told that nearly all the Ainu of Horobets
+had become "good Christians." If such were the case, which
+I do not wish my readers to doubt, the small experience which
+I had here, led me to believe that "good Christians" often
+make "very bad heathens."</p>
+
+<p>I left all my baggage in a tea-house at the entrance of the
+village, and, taking my paint-box with me, I went for a walk
+along the beach. I saw a crowd of Ainu in the distance,
+and I hurried up to them. They were busy skinning a large
+Ushi-sakana (cow-fish), cutting it into pieces with their long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>
+knives. They did not pay much attention to me, and this disregard
+of what would be to others a cause of curiosity and interruption
+I afterwards found to be a characteristic of the
+Ainu. They are seldom distracted from any particular idea
+that occupies their mind at a certain moment. In fact, they
+are so little accustomed to reflect at all, that it seems almost
+impossible for them to think of two things at the same time.
+Of all the existing races of mankind they may be said to be
+the most purely one-idea'd.</p>
+
+<p>Stark naked, with their long hair streaming in the wind, they
+formed a picturesque group. What a chance for a sketch! I
+sat down on the sand, opened my paint-box, and dashed off
+a picture, when a young lad, who had taken his share of the
+fish, came over to see what I was doing. "What is it?" he
+asked me in broken Japanese, to which question I answered
+that I was painting the group of them. The news seemed to
+give him a shock. He rejoined the others, excitedly muttered
+some words, and apparently told them that I had painted the
+whole group, fish and all. Had anyone among them been
+struck by lightning, they could certainly not have looked more
+dismayed. I never knew until then that painting could have
+such an overpowering effect on people, except, perhaps, when
+one has sat to an amateur artist for one's own likeness, the result
+of which is often one of dumb and blank amazement.
+Anger and disgust naturally followed. The fish was thrown
+aside, but not the knives, armed with which they all rushed at
+my back. The sudden change of ideas had evidently made
+them exceedingly angry. The grumbling became very loud,
+and louder still when they saw me complacently giving the
+finishing touches to the fish, which was now left alone, and not
+as before shifted about every second. They grew wilder and
+wilder, until one of the crowd shouted in my ears some words
+which sounded remarkably like swearing. Nevertheless it
+takes more than that to stop me from sketching; but ...
+"By Jove!" I exclaimed, when, all of a sudden, a rush was
+made on me. My paint-box, picture, palette and brushes
+were snatched out of my hands and smashed or flung away,
+and I found myself stretched on the sand, my late involuntary
+sitters holding me down fast by the legs and arms. A big
+knife was kept well over my head, so that I should not attempt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+to move, while the painting, on a heavy wooden panel, was
+being mercilessly destroyed by others. "If these are Christians,
+well I am ..." were, I must confess, the first words that
+rose to my lips.</p>
+
+<p>It is, indeed, difficult to describe how and what one feels
+when, to all appearance, one is going to be murdered&mdash;for
+painting a fish! My first thought, of course, went to my
+parents. My next was, what a nuisance it was to be murdered
+with the sun shining in my eyes, so that I could not even see
+who would give me the "finishing touch." All the events of
+my life, the bad ones first, flashed across my mind in those few
+seconds, and then I almost began to feel as if I had made my
+first steps into the other world, and I could see angels and
+devils disputing for my company&mdash;the devils, of course, having
+by far the largest claims. The bitterness of death had in some
+sense passed, when, to my great astonishment, and with a few,
+but very sound, kicks I was made to understand that I could
+get up and go.</p>
+
+<p>The sensation of being brought back to life, when one has
+made up one's mind to be dead, notwithstanding the abrupt
+manner in which it was produced, was indeed a pleasant one.
+I did get up, and pretty quick, I can tell you; but only to
+see my poor wooden paint-box floating half-smashed in the
+sea, my brushes stuck here and there in the sand, and the
+sketch utterly destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>My assailants were about fifteen or twenty, and I was alone.
+Stupidly enough, and relying on the Christianity of the
+people, I had not burdened myself with the extra weight of
+my revolver; I had left it with my heavy luggage in the
+small Japanese tea-house where I had put up, nearly a mile
+away. The Japanese police-station was at Washibets, another
+village some miles off. Nothing was left for me but to pick
+up the few unbroken brushes which were within easy reach
+and retire; but I was neither frightened nor conquered, and I
+swore to myself that I would have my revenge. I hurried
+to the tea-house, took my revolver, and filled my pocket
+with cartridges, then I ran back to the spot where I had
+sketched and been assaulted. There they all were as I had
+left them, one of them mimicking me with the broken palette,
+which he had fished out of the sea. I had kept well behind<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+some thick brushwood, so that they should not see me, and
+for some time watched them unobserved. The imitation was
+perfect. The impromptu Raphael's hair was long enough to
+give him the look of an artist, and he was sufficiently brave to
+carry on his imitation sketching under a shower of missiles
+and sand thrown at him by his friends and companions. As
+he turned his head I recognised in my brother-artist the man
+who had been holding the knife over my head about an hour
+before, and also the very person who had given me the
+soundest kick. Just like a brother-artist! If my sketching
+had not lasted long, his parody was even shorter. I sprang
+out from the brushwood screen and caught him by the throat,
+pointing my revolver at his head, and telling him in Japanese
+to follow me to the police-station. Another man, attacking
+me from behind, stabbed me in my left arm, but not very
+severely, as I saw him just in time to avoid his blow. The
+sight of my revolver had a salutary effect on my hairy friends,
+and they were done out of their fun when, keeping them at
+bay, I told them that if they did not follow me they would all
+be dead men before they knew where they were. They had
+seen guns of the Japanese, and they knew the effects of them,
+so the saucy gentlemen stroked their hair and beard and made
+signs of submission and obedience. However, I was not to be
+easily appeased, as it was necessary to give them a lesson to
+prevent the same thing happening to future travellers; so I
+made them march in front of me, not caring to have them at
+my back, and thus took them all to the Japanese police-station,
+where they were duly arrested. The Japanese are
+very severe with recalcitrant Ainu, and my assailants would
+have been unmercifully dealt with had it not been for their
+wives and children, who came to me begging me to forgive
+their husbands and fathers for what they had done. I
+willingly did so, on condition that they should all come and
+prostrate themselves at my feet, imploring pardon and forgiveness
+and offering submission, as well as confessing their
+sorrow. This penitential function was reluctantly fixed by the
+Japanese policeman&mdash;the only one in the place&mdash;at a late
+hour in the afternoon. During the interval, as I fortunately
+had a large supply of painting materials, I managed to repaint
+from memory the scene represented in the sketch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+destroyed. The evening came, and the little Japanese policeman
+brought the resigned and humbled Ainu to the inn.
+Their wives and relatives followed, and they all looked
+supremely mournful and sad. I sat, Japanese fashion, on the
+small verandah on the ground-floor, and the policeman placed
+the Ainu on a line in front of me, and then came to sit by my
+side. He then addressed them, partly in the Ainu language,
+partly in Japanese, and bestowed on them names which went
+well to the point. He scolded them harshly, and asked them
+why they had assaulted me.</p>
+
+<p>One of them, as grave as a judge, with his eyes cast down,
+and in a half-broken voice, came forward and said, that if once
+you have your likeness taken you have to give up your life
+to it, and it brings illness to yourself, to your children, your
+parents, and your neighbours. Not only that, but as I had
+<i>taken</i> many people together, famine was sure to fall on the
+country. "Then," he added&mdash;and he seemed positive of what
+he was talking about&mdash;"then there was a fish the stranger
+<i>made</i>"&mdash;the Ainu have no word for painting&mdash;"and had we
+not destroyed his <i>makings</i> all the fish would have disappeared
+from the sea, and all the Ainu would have died of starvation"&mdash;which
+was a terrible contingency, as the Ainu live mainly
+by fishing. "We have not hurt the stranger," continued this
+hairy representative of Master Eustache de St. Pierre, "and
+now that all the Ainu and the fish he made are destroyed
+we are safe."</p>
+
+<p>"You are mistaken," said I, when, by the aid of the policeman,
+I understood the meaning of this long harangue, and I
+produced the large sketch of the scene which I had repainted
+from memory. This certainly beat them. They could hardly
+believe their own eyes, and looked at each other as if some
+great calamity were approaching. I have no doubt that they
+considered me an evil spirit, and, as such, too powerful to be
+contended with. Discretion was their best part of valour, as
+they proved. One by one they approached the verandah, sat
+cross-legged in front of me, rubbed their hands together,
+stroked their hair and beard three times, and three times each
+put his head down to my feet, begging my pardon. The
+Ainu women and children who had assembled in the back
+yard, where the function took place, were crying and moaning<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+piteously. The most trying part for me was, of course, to
+keep serious during this long tragi-comic performance, and I
+was indeed glad when it was all over; when my supremacy
+was acknowledged, and my immunity from further insult
+secured; when submission had been made, and such whips and
+stings of outrageous fortune as might come from the painting
+of a fish had been humbly accepted.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are gentle and mild by nature, but, like all
+ignorant people, they are extremely superstitious, and superstition
+is a powerful excitant. Nevertheless, they are good
+people in their own way, and it must not be inferred from this
+small experience of mine that they are bullies, for they are
+not. The superstition regarding the reproduction of images
+is common all through the East, with the exception of the
+Japanese, and in many parts of Europe itself strange ideas are
+connected with portrait-painting. In Spain or Italy many a
+girl of the lower classes would think herself dishonoured if
+she happened to be sketched unawares, or if her picture were
+shown without the consent of her parents, brothers, relatives,
+and the parish priest.</p>
+
+<p>However, these Horobets Ainu are said, since civilisation
+has set in in that part of Yezo, of late years to have become
+untrustworthy and violent. They are more given to drunkenness
+than their neighbours, as they can procure from the
+Japanese stronger beverages than their own. <i>Sake</i> (Japanese
+wine) of inferior quality is sold and exchanged in large
+quantities, and has the same fatal effects on them as rum&mdash;our
+fire-water&mdash;had on the American Indians.</p>
+
+<p>I was not sorry to leave a village which had displayed so
+little appreciation of my art. I took two ponies and two
+pack-saddles, to one of which was lashed my baggage, while I
+sat on the other. Riding is a delightful pastime when you
+have a good horse and a good saddle; but not when you have
+to look after two vicious animals, and are yourself perched on
+a rough wooden pack-saddle. Moreover, Ainu pack-saddles
+are perhaps the most uncomfortable of their kind. The
+illustration shows one of them. It is made with a rough, solid
+wooden frame, of which the front and back parts are semicircular.
+One large hole is perforated in each of these to
+allow ropes to be passed through. Under this frame are two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+mat cushions or pads, which are somehow supposed to fit the
+pony's back; and by means of three ropes, one of which is
+passed under the pony's body and fastened on each side of
+the saddle, while the others hang loose across its chest and
+under its tail respectively, the pack-saddle is made to
+remain in position either going uphill, downhill, or on level
+ground. Stirrups, of course, there are none; and mounting
+involves some difficulties at first. One has to face one's pony
+and place the left foot on the breast-piece, lift oneself up and
+swing right round, describing three-quarters of a circle before
+attaining one's seat in the saddle. If distances are miscalculated
+in this gymnastic feat, it is a common occurrence to find
+oneself seated on the pony's neck, or else landed heavily on
+either of the two hard wooden arches of the saddle, instead of
+gracefully falling between them. Keeping your equilibrium
+when you are on is also a trying exercise to anybody not born
+and bred a circus rider, and balancing your baggage perfectly
+on each side of the saddle is somewhat more difficult than
+it sounds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-018.png" width="300" height="159" alt="PACK-SADDLE" />
+<span class="caption">PACK-SADDLE.</span></div>
+
+<p>Nine miles from Horobets one comes across the Nobori-bets<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+hot-springs. There was, formerly, a <i>geiser</i> here, but it
+is seldom active now. These hot-springs are situated two-and-a-half
+miles from the sea-coast, and a miserable building,
+which is a mere shanty, is built in the vicinity of them,
+where people who wish to be cured of different complaints
+put up and take the waters.</p>
+
+<p>I rode on to the Noboribets village, consisting of a few houses<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+only; and, though I reached it late in the evening, I had to ride
+fourteen miles further to Shiraoi, "a place of horse-flies."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>At sunrise I was up again and on my way to Tomakomai,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>
+the largest Japanese fishing village between Mororran and
+Cape Erimo.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;">
+<img src="images/illus-019.jpg" width="244" height="342" alt="NOBORIBETS VOLCANO" />
+<span class="caption">NOBORIBETS VOLCANO.</span></div>
+
+<p>Sardine fishing is the principal and, indeed, the only industry
+of the place. It is carried on in a practical way.
+When the long nets are ready, and one end of them is
+fastened to the shore, they launch the boat, which is rowed
+rapidly by twenty or thirty strong men, while the net is
+dropped as the boat goes along. Having thus described a
+semicircle, the boat is beached. All on board jump out, and
+the net is pulled on shore amid the shrieks and yells of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+excited fishermen. Myriads of sardines are caught each time
+the net is hauled in; and it is a fantastic scene to see the
+naked crowd which, in clearing the nets from the beheaded
+fish, get covered with silver scales, which stick to their arms,
+legs, and body, and give them a strange appearance.</p>
+
+<p><i>Look-out</i> towers are built on four high posts, where a
+watchman is posted to signal the arrival and approach of the
+shoals. The sea is so dense with them that it changes its
+colour, and these moving banks of sardines are distinguishable
+four or five miles from the coast. This method is the same
+as that adopted in Cornwall when the pilchards are expected,
+and the same discoloration of the sea takes place.</p>
+
+<p>From Tomakomai a road branches to the north leading
+to Sappro, the capital of Hokkaido, and it is the last place on
+the southern coast which is visited by that rare specimen of
+the globe-trotter who ventures to Yezo. He hastily makes
+his way from here to Sappro and Otaru on the northern coast,
+and waits for a ship to be conveyed back to Hakodate. He
+then, of course, tells his friends that he has been round and
+about and through Yezo, while in fact he has seen absolutely
+nothing of Yezo or its inhabitants. About half-a-dozen
+Europeans, however, have been further on&mdash;as far as the Saru
+River; and each one has written a book on the Ainu, for the
+most part copying what the previous author had written.</p>
+
+<p>As far as Tomakomai there is a road&mdash;a sure sign of
+civilisation&mdash;but nothing but a horse-track is to be found all
+along the southern coast after this place has been passed.</p>
+
+<p>Changing my ponies at Yuhuts,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> nine miles east, and again
+at Mukawa and Saru-buto, I was able to reach Saru Mombets
+that same night. Many Ainu and Japanese fishermen's huts
+are scattered between Horohuts<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> and Yuhuts, on the sandy
+track along the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The traveller then leaves the sea on the right, and by a
+very uneven track, and after fording several rivers of little
+importance comes to Mukawa, a dirty little village fourteen
+miles from Yuhuts. My lunch that day consisted of a large
+piece of raw salmon, which was easily digested in riding nine
+more miles to Saru-buto. Sharu in Ainu, corrupted into Saru,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+means a grassy plain; and <i>buto</i> is a Japanese corruption of
+the Ainu word <i>huts</i>, the mouth of a river. My ponies must
+have known of this "grassy plain," for they went remarkably
+well, and I reached the latter village some time before dark, so
+that I was able to push on to Saru Mombets, a larger village
+nearly four miles further. Saru Mombets translated means
+"a tranquil river in a grassy plain," a name thoroughly
+appropriate to the locality.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing to interest the traveller along the coast,
+unless he be a geologist. Almost the whole of the western
+part of the Iburi district is of volcanic formation. The eastern
+part is abundant in sandstones, breccias, and shales. In the
+neighbourhood of Yuhuts, and all along the coast as far west
+as Horobets, pumice forms the surface soil, showing that in
+former days frequent eruptions must have taken place. Vegetable
+mould alternates with pumice. Sand, clay, tufa, with
+beds of peat and gravel, are the components of the soil
+which is found filling up the declivities of mountains, covering
+low-lands and sea-beaches in this part of the island. Specimens
+of the palæozoic group are found in the pebbles of the
+Mukawa River and valley, like amphibolite, limestone, phyllite,
+sandstone, and clay-slate, besides variegated quartzite
+of greenish and red layers. Primary rocks are common all
+through Iburi and Hidaka.</p>
+
+<p>The terraces surrounding the Saru valley are mostly wooded
+with oak, and the swampy region between the Mukawa and
+Sarubuto has many patches of green grass, and a thick
+growth of high swamp reeds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
+<img src="images/illus-021.jpg" width="359" height="164" alt="HOROBETS" />
+<span class="caption">HOROBETS.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-022.jpg" width="362" height="323" alt="STOREHOUSES AT PIRATORI" />
+<span class="caption">STOREHOUSES AT PIRATORI.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER III.<br />
+<span class="small">Up the Saru River&mdash;Piratori and its chief.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>A large number of Ainu have taken up their abode on the
+banks of the River Saru, or Sharu, as it is called by them, and
+Piratori, nearly fifteen miles from the coast, is the largest village
+of the whole series.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery from the coast to this village is not grand, but
+pretty, through a thickly-wooded country and along grassy
+plains. The Ainu give to the plain itself the name of Sharu-Ru,
+which corresponds in English to a "track in a grassy
+plain." Along this water-way, or not far from it, one meets
+with numerous small Ainu villages and scattered huts until
+Piratori is reached.</p>
+
+<p>Piratori is a string or succession of many villages on undulating
+ground, the last of them being situated on a high
+cliff overlooking the river. In the Ainu language <i>Pira</i> means<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+"a cliff," and <i>Tori</i> "a residence." As in all Ainu villages, the
+huts are in one line, some few yards one from the other. Each
+has a separate structure&mdash;a small storehouse built on piles&mdash;generally
+at the west end of the hut.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival at Piratori, I was welcomed by Benry, the
+<i>Ottena</i> (chief) of the village, who invited me to his hut and
+<i>salaamed</i> me in the most solemn manner, not forgetting to
+mention incidentally that "his throat was very dry," and that
+<i>sake</i> (Japanese wine) could be obtained from a Japanese who
+lives opposite to his hut.</p>
+
+<p>"He is a bad man," said Benry confidentially; "but he
+sells very good <i>sake</i>."</p>
+
+<p>The <i>sake</i> was procured, and Benry, beaming with joy, poured
+it with his shaky, drunken hands into a large bowl. He then
+produced a wooden stick, shaped like a paper-knife, about five
+inches in length, and waved it in the air five or six times with
+his right hand, dipping the point of it each time into the fluid.
+"<i>Nishpa</i>"&mdash;sir, master&mdash;said he. Then, leaning forwards and
+lifting up his heavy moustache with the small stick, he
+swallowed the contents of the bowl at a draught. The same
+performance took place each time that some fresh <i>sake</i> was
+poured into his bowl, and then Benry, with an inimitable
+cunning, and a comically self-sacrificing expression on his face,
+meekly enquired whether I would care to see "how much an
+Ainu could drink."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said I, "we will go down to the river, and you shall
+show me there if you can drink it dry."</p>
+
+<p>"Yie, yie, yie"&mdash;no, no, no&mdash;hurriedly replied in Japanese
+the Ainu chief; "water is too heavy, and I meant wine."
+Owing to this small difference of opinion, and having no wish
+to encourage him in his drunkenness, Benry's capacity for
+intoxicating fluids is yet unknown to the civilised world.</p>
+
+<p>Benry's house is a palace compared to other Ainu huts. It
+is much larger than most of them, and boasts of a wooden
+floor, in the centre of which a rectangular fire-place is cut out.
+The hut has two windows, one toward the east, the other
+opening to the south; but no chimney is provided as an
+outlet for the smoke. A hole in the west corner of the roof
+answers this purpose. The rough wooden frame is thatched
+with tall reeds and <i>arundinaria</i>, and the roof is shaped like<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+a prism. The different huts of Piratori vary in size, but not
+in type. The larger ones cover an area of about sixteen or
+eighteen feet square. Most of them, however, do not measure
+more than ten or twelve feet square. Benry's house was
+exceptionally large, and being such a "swell" one, two rough
+<i>kinna</i> (mats) were spread on the floor and a number of
+Japanese rice boxes and <i>shokuji</i> tables<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> adorned one side of
+the dwelling. Over these were hung a number of swords,
+knives, etc., most of them with no blade at all, or with only a
+wooden one. The few old blades which Benry possessed were
+of Japanese workmanship, probably obtained by the Ainu in
+their former wars with the Japanese. A few Ainu spears and
+arrows with bone and bamboo poisoned points were fastened
+to the roof.</p>
+
+<p>These Ainu of Piratori have frequent intercourse with the
+Japanese, who get from them furs and other articles in exchange
+for <i>sake</i> or a few worthless beads. A few half-castes
+are also found at Piratori. The Piratori Ainu, with those of
+Volcano Bay, as we have seen, are those best known to the
+civilised world, as a few foreigners have travelled so far to
+see them. I may mention that as types the inhabitants of
+Piratori are a great deal better than the residents of Volcano
+Bay, most of whom are half-breeds; but even they themselves
+cannot be taken as fair specimens of their race, for they have
+adopted several customs and habits of the Japanese, which the
+incautious traveller has then reported as purely Ainu customs.
+For instance, the pure Ainu diet consists almost entirely of
+fish, meat, and seaweeds. Only occasionally are the roots of
+certain trees eaten. At Piratori I found that many grow and
+eat millet, and corn and bad rice are also sometimes procured
+from the Japanese. Benry has also gone so far in the way of
+civilisation as to invest his small fortune in buying half-a-dozen
+hens and a cock, with whom he shares his regal home.
+These hens lay eggs according to custom, and Benry and his
+"wife" eat them. As the Ainu language has no special word
+for this imported kind of bird, they are known by the name
+of "kikkiri."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 496px;">
+<img src="images/illus-025.png" width="496" height="600" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BENRY, THE AINU CHIEF OF PIRATORI.</span></div>
+
+<p>After the experience which I had had at Horobets I decided
+to be more careful with my sketching. I broached the subject<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+to Benry, and asked him to sit to me for his portrait. At first
+he was very reluctant, but the prospect of receiving a present
+finally overcame his scruples&mdash;for he was indeed civilised in
+this respect, and understood the worth of his version of the
+almighty dollar to perfection&mdash;and, consenting to be sketched,
+he sat&mdash;at the outset with as much courage as docility. He
+produced a crown of shavings and seaweed, which he solemnly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+placed on his head, whilst his better-half helped him on with
+his regal <i>imi</i> (garments), as well as a large sword, which also
+made part of his regal insignia. The crown had in front a small
+bear's head roughly carved in wood, and the clothes were very
+gaudy. They were made of strips of blue, white, and red cloth
+sewn together. The materials used were Japanese, but they
+were cut and arranged in a thoroughly Ainu pattern. Though
+he began well, Benry was not a good sitter, and, like most
+animals, he did not like to be stared at. He felt the weight of
+a look, as it were, and it made him uncomfortable. Not many
+minutes had elapsed before he became openly impatient; he
+even showed his temper by flinging away his crown and his
+wooden sword. On the other hand, sketching in Benry's
+house was no easy matter for me. With all the respect due to
+the chief of Piratori, I am bound to say that his house was not
+a model of cleanliness. Those of his hairy brothers and
+subjects were no better than his, and many were a great deal
+worse. Fleas and other insects were so numerous that in a
+few minutes I was literally covered with them, each one of
+them having a peaceful and hearty meal at my expense, while
+I, for the sake of art, had to go on with my sketch and leave
+them undisturbed. Notwithstanding all this Benry was immortalised
+twice that day, and his maid, housekeeper, or wife&mdash;three
+words which have the same meaning to the Ainu&mdash;was
+also handed down to posterity while in the act of spinning
+the inner fibre of the <i>Ulmus campestris</i> bark, destined to form
+a new garment for her lord, master, and husband.</p>
+
+<p>When I went out to sketch the houses and storehouses in
+the village Benry and another man followed me everywhere;
+but neither he nor his fellow-shadow seemed to take any
+interest in the sketching. In Japan, Corea, and China I have
+often been surrounded by hundreds of people attentively
+watching every stroke of the brush, and I have always found
+them clever and quick in making out the meaning of each line
+or brush-mark. I can assert, without fear of being contradicted,
+that the majority of Japanese, Coreans, and Chinese
+are even quicker than Europeans in that respect, owing to the
+fact that lines constitute for them the study of a lifetime.
+Chinese characters, which are nothing but a deep study of
+lines, are adopted by the three above-mentioned nations, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+I consider this to be the original cause why this artistic
+insight is to be found even among the lowest classes. The
+Ainu have no such insight; they have no characters, no
+writing of any kind, no books, and it is therefore not astonishing
+that they are not trained to understand art, bad as it may
+have been in my case. Their appreciation of lines is yet in the
+rudest form, and they possess no more than what is instinctive
+with them. For instance, while I was sketching, Benry and
+his friend either sat or crouched down by my side like two
+dogs, and when my sketch was finished I showed it to them.</p>
+
+<p>"Pirika, Pirika! Nishpa!" ("Very pretty, very pretty, sir!")
+Benry exclaimed with perfect self-assurance; but when I
+asked him what he thought the sketch represented, he cut me
+short by saying that <i>I</i> had done the picture and <i>I</i> ought to
+know what it was meant for; he did not. His friend agreed
+with him.</p>
+
+<p>When my work was done we three walked back to Benry's
+house, my two Ainu friends being very anxious that I
+should get something to eat. From their conversation and
+gestures I caught that it seemed incomprehensible to them
+that I should sit in front of an Ainu hut and&mdash;to use their
+expression&mdash;"make all sorts of signs on a wooden panel."
+After a lengthy discussion the two came to the conclusion that
+houses in our country were so bad that I had been sent to the
+Ainu country to "copy" the pattern of Ainu huts!</p>
+
+<p>Benry seemed excited about something, and hurried us
+back with curious haste and eagerness. When we left the
+house in the morning I saw Benry's better-half placing a few
+eggs in water to boil over the fire. When we entered the hut,
+nearly two hours afterwards, the eggs were still boiling, and
+no fair maid within yelling reach. In order that the fire
+might not go out during her absence the thoughtful girl had
+placed the largest portion of the trunk of a tree in the
+fireplace!</p>
+
+<p>Taken altogether, Benry and all his Saru Ainu are very
+good-natured. They gradually got accustomed to being
+sketched, seeing that after all it really did not bring on them
+"immediate death."</p>
+
+<p>The more one sees of the Ainu the dirtier they appear, but
+as dirt to a great extent contributes to picturesqueness, I was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+indeed sorry when Benry, exercising his authority, sent several
+of my sitters to dress up in their best clothes&mdash;often Japanese&mdash;while
+I should have preferred to sketch them in their every-day
+rags. I must say, for their sake, that they were never
+sent to wash. Being a rapid sketcher, I had recourse to a
+trick. I pretended to sketch one given person, who, of course,
+was sent at once to "dress up," and while he or she, after
+having returned, posed patiently for half an hour or more, I in
+the meantime took sketches of four or five different natives,
+who were not aware that they were being portrayed. As the
+Ainu&mdash;and they are probably not the only people&mdash;could not
+make either head or tail of my sketches, my trick was never
+found out.</p>
+
+<p>One day, old Benry led me by the hand in the most affectionate
+manner to a hut some way off, and confidentially told
+me that we were going to see his favourite girl and her boy.</p>
+
+<p>"This," said the chief triumphantly as we went in, "this is
+Benry's <i>Pirika menoko</i>" (pretty girl), "and that"&mdash;pointing to
+a youth&mdash;"her only son."</p>
+
+<p>"And what about the old hairy lady in your own hut?" I
+inquired.</p>
+
+<p>"That is my <i>Poromachi</i>" (great wife), said he, qualifying
+matters with a compliment to the elder woman, "and this is
+my <i>Pon-machi</i>" (small wife).</p>
+
+<p>"Why should you have two wives, you old Mormon?"</p>
+
+<p>"Nishpa," retorted he, "my great wife is old, and she is
+only fit to do all the rough work in the house and out. My
+hair is white, but I am strong, and I wanted yet a young wife."</p>
+
+<p>Indeed, there was enough mother-wit in Benry to have
+made him either a scamp or a philosopher. His theories were
+as remarkable as they were accommodating, particularly to
+himself.</p>
+
+<p>Returning from the house of his love, the chief was in a very
+talkative mood, and he related two or three Japanese stories,
+which he wanted me to believe to be pure Ainu legends. A
+learned missionary and two or three travellers before him,
+who had visited Piratori previous to myself, have accepted
+these so-called legends wholesale, taking Benry's word for
+their accuracy, which, as the old chief speaks very good
+Japanese, of course simplified the task of understanding and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+transcribing them. I was, however, much surprised to find
+that such learned Europeans could yield such ready credence
+to a barbarian Ainu chief.</p>
+
+<p>Thinking that it would please me, Benry told me the story
+of a deluge and a big flood, in which nearly all the Ainu were
+drowned. The few that escaped did so by finding refuge on a
+high mountain.</p>
+
+<p>"Where did you learn this story, Benry?" I asked sternly.</p>
+
+<p>"Nishpa, it is an old Ainu story, and all strangers who
+come to Piratori write it in their books."</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, no, Benry, you know well that <i>one</i> stranger did not
+write it in his book," said I quickly, as if I knew all about it.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, yes, nishpa; <i>that</i> was the stranger who told me the
+story!"</p>
+
+<p>This small anecdote shows how careful one ought to be in
+accepting information which may sound extremely interesting
+at first, but is absolutely worthless in the end.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 297px;">
+<img src="images/illus-029.jpg" width="297" height="312" alt="AINU MAN WAVING HIS MOUSTACHE-LIFTER PREVIOUS TO DRINKING" />
+<span class="caption">AINU MAN WAVING HIS MOUSTACHE-LIFTER PREVIOUS
+TO DRINKING.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-030.jpg" width="362" height="252" alt="AN AINU FESTIVAL" />
+<span class="caption">AN AINU FESTIVAL.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br />
+<span class="small">An Ainu Festival.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ainu have few public performances, and no special time
+of the year is fixed for them. As it so happened, a festival&mdash;a
+"Iyomanrei"&mdash;took place while I was at Piratori.</p>
+
+<p>The performance was held in a large hut belonging to the
+heir apparent to the chieftainship of Piratori. I went to the
+hut and asked whether I could attend the performance. The
+host, in answer, came to meet me at the door, and, taking me
+by the hand, led me in. I was shown where to sit, on the
+southern side of the hut, the place of honour for strangers, and
+my host sat in front of me and saluted me in Ainu fashion.</p>
+
+<p>Benry and several old men were squatting on the floor,
+Benry in the middle, and he was again gorgeous in his regal
+clothes. Some of the others, who wore a crown like Benry's,
+were chiefs of the neighbouring villages, who had come up for
+the grand occasion.</p>
+
+<p>One by one all the men present rose and came to stroke
+their hair and beard before me, and I returned the compliment
+as well as I could in Ainu fashion. The hut was gradually<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+getting filled, and each man that entered first saluted the
+landlord, then Benry, then myself, and ultimately the two
+guests between whom he sat. Women and children occupied
+the darker west end of the hut, and they took no active part in
+the function. Other chiefs came in, and Benry was surrounded
+by many of them and by elderly men.</p>
+
+<p>The whole group of these chiefs, with their long white
+beards, lighted up by a brilliant ray of sunshine, which
+penetrated through the small east window, was extremely
+picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>In its savagery it was almost grand, with a barbaric quasi-animal
+sense of power and irresponsibility. In truth, it was a
+wonderful sight to see all these hairy people assembled in this
+small place&mdash;men, yet not men like ourselves&mdash;men, and not
+brutes, yet still having curiously brutish traits athwart their
+humanity.</p>
+
+<p>The performance was simple, but really fine in its simplicity.
+A fire burning in the centre of the hut, and filling the place
+with smoke, added, by its suggestive dimness, to the picturesqueness
+of the scene. It was strange that the only ray of
+sun which came in should fall on the most interesting group.
+Was it chance or design? Rembrandt himself would have
+delighted in painting that scene.</p>
+
+<p>Benry looked every inch a king, and several of the younger
+men were busily engaged lighting his pipe and refilling it with
+tobacco. He puffed away at such a rate that no sooner was
+the pipe filled than it was smoked and handed over again to
+undergo the same process.</p>
+
+<p>Two large casks of Japanese <i>sake</i> were brought in, and each
+man produced his wooden bowl.</p>
+
+<p>The host came slowly forward, and planted an <i>Inao</i>&mdash;a
+willow wand with overhanging shavings&mdash;in one corner of the
+fireplace; then muttered a few words, which implied that the
+<i>sake</i> could now be poured out. A Japanese lacquer rice-box
+was filled with the intoxicating liquid, and no sooner had this
+been done than old Benry, forgetting his dignity, jumped up
+and made a rush for it, filled a large bowl, and retired to a
+corner to drink it. All the men present followed his example.
+Benry was never selfish when he had had enough for himself.
+He filled his bowl again and brought it to me, saying that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+I was a friend of the Ainu, and must join them in the
+drinking.</p>
+
+<p>My attention was suddenly drawn to three old chiefs, who,
+half drunk, stood in front of the small east window. They
+dipped their moustache-lifters in their bowls, waving them
+towards the sun as a salutation to the "Chop Kamui," the
+"Great Sun." There was no religious character attached to
+this libation offered to the sun, no more than when we take off
+our hats passing a respected friend in the street. It is a mere
+sign of respect, not of worship. Besides, it must be clearly
+understood that no "offerings" of wine are ever made by the
+Ainu to the "Great Sun," and that the "libations" offered
+are invariably consumed by the offerer.</p>
+
+<p>I managed to get several sketches of the assembly, and
+every moment I expected to get into trouble again; but this
+time they took it most kindly.</p>
+
+<p>The hut became very stuffy, owing to the large number of
+persons and the smoke. There were nearly two hundred
+people in it, packed closely together, and there was nothing in
+the show to interest one&mdash;certainly not the disgusting sight of
+this drunkenness, which, moreover, became monotonous as
+well as disgusting.</p>
+
+<p>I stroked my hair and beard&mdash;the latter only figuratively&mdash;in
+sign of salute, to the host, Benry, and the other drowsy
+chiefs, and, carefully avoiding pushing or treading on any
+member of the unsteady crowd, I made my exit.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, what a treat it was to breathe fresh air again!</p>
+
+<p>Outside the hut the pretty <i>menokos</i> (girls) of Piratori were
+having a lot of fun all to themselves. They were all dressed
+in long yellowish gowns, with rough white and red ornamentations
+on a patch of blue cloth, on their backs; and each girl
+took a very active part in a game, or a kind of savage dance,
+called Tapkara. They all ranged themselves in a circle, and
+a child or two was sometimes placed in the centre. The game
+consisted in collectively hopping an indefinite number of times,
+calling out either the name, or the accompanying sound, of
+some of their everyday occupations, and clapping the hands so
+as to keep time. For instance, one sound was "Ouye, ouye"
+("Fire, fire"), and they all blew as when making a fire, and
+hopped till they were nearly senseless.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+Then the next was "R-r-r, r-r-r, r-r-r," and with this they
+imitated the pulling of a rope.</p>
+
+<p>Then "Pirrero, pirrero; pirrero, pirrero," was the sound
+accompanying the action of rowing, imitating the squeaking of
+the paddle produced by the friction on the canoe.</p>
+
+<p>The movement of the arms changed according to the sounds
+uttered, but the hopping was kept up continuously. The
+game reminded me much of our Sir Roger de Coverley, in a
+more barbarous form, but certainly not less pretty than our
+old country dance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-033.jpg" width="362" height="275" alt="AINU WOMEN DANCING, PIRATORI" />
+<span class="caption">AINU WOMEN DANCING, PIRATORI.</span></div>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon all the men came out of the hut, and
+by a winding path I was taken to the valley along the river,
+at the foot of the cliff on which Piratori is built. Benry and
+all the other chiefs remained on the cliff. Bareback races
+formed the next and last event in the programme, and the
+chiefs were to witness them from their "high point of view."</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 162px;">
+<img src="images/illus-034.jpg" width="162" height="310" alt="" title="PIRATORI WOMAN IN COSTUME" />
+<span class="caption">PIRATORI WOMAN IN COSTUME.</span></div>
+
+<p>There was great excitement as to who should ride the
+ponies. The Ainu are fond of sports, and I noticed that
+ultimately they were sharp enough to select their jockeys from
+among the lightest men. The winner of each race had a good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+time of it, but the other unfortunate jockeys were pulled off
+the ponies by the angry mob, and knocked about as worthless
+beings.</p>
+
+<p>The evening came, and with the dying sun ended that
+memorable day of festivities. I retired. Distant sounds of
+the <i>menokos</i>, still enjoying themselves, came to me with the
+wind, but fainter and fainter they grew as it was getting
+darker.</p>
+
+<p>"Pirrero! Pirrero! Pirrero!" I heard again, till at last the
+sounds faded away into a mere murmur, and I fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p>The morning that I left Piratori, old Benry put on his regal
+clothes and crown to bid me good-bye.</p>
+
+<p>"Nishpa, Popka-no-okkayan"
+("Sir, may you be preserved
+warm"), said the old chief, in the
+Ainu fashion of bidding farewell;
+"I have a pain in my chest,
+owing to your leaving Piratori,
+but I shall accompany you part
+of the way."</p>
+
+<p>I dissuaded the old chief from
+doing that, but he went on, with
+his plaintive voice: "Nishpa,
+you must tell in your country
+that Piratori is a nice place, and
+all the Ainu are good people.
+Not like the Shamo" (Japanese;
+also half-breeds), "for they are
+bad. You must return soon,"
+he added, and, taking my hand,
+he pressed it to his hairy chest.
+He then took me to his hut
+again, and there renewed his
+farewells, and I renewed mine to
+him, to his <i>great</i> wife, and to his house, for it is part of the
+Ainu etiquette to bid good-bye to the house of a friend as
+well as to the owner of it.</p>
+
+<p>The return journey to Saru Mombets was accomplished
+without much difficulty.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 356px;">
+<img src="images/illus-035.jpg" width="356" height="259" alt="UTAROP ROCKS" />
+<span class="caption">UTAROP ROCKS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER V.<br />
+<span class="small">From the Saru River to Cape Erimo.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>After quitting Saru Mombets I was altogether out of the
+beaten tracks. The twenty-two miles to Shimokebo were
+monotonous in the extreme. High cliffs towered above me
+on the one side, and the sea stretched into infinity on the
+other. River after river had to be waded, the At-pets,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> the
+Nii-pak-pets,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and the Shibe-gari-pets.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> The Nii-pak-pets is
+wide and fairly deep. Near the At-pets river the Japanese
+Government has established a horse farm, in order to improve
+the breed of Yezo ponies. A few miserable Ainu huts are
+scattered along the coast, and millions of scavenger crows,
+with their monotonous cries, seem to claim sovereignty over
+these shores. Near the Takae village, on the Nii-kap-pets, is
+an enormous perpendicular cliff, which, jutting out into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+sea, bars the way to the traveller; therefore I had to abandon
+the sandy shore, and with considerable trouble get the ponies
+to climb over the steep banks, which was no easy task for them.
+Shimokebo is a peculiar-looking place. It is entirely a fishermen's
+village, and I put up at the Ogingawa Zunubi yadoya&mdash;a
+tea-house owned by a Japanese fisherman.</p>
+
+<p>Japanese will be Japanese wherever they go, and people who
+have had anything to do with them know how difficult it is to
+satisfy their curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>"How old are you?" inquired the <i>occamisan</i>&mdash;the landlady.
+"Where do you come from? What is your country? Why
+are you travelling? Have you a wife and children? Can you
+eat Japanese food; also Ainu food? Can you sleep in
+<i>foutangs</i>?" (Japanese bedding). "Also with a <i>makura</i>?" (a
+wooden pillow).</p>
+
+<p>About fifty more personal and indiscreet questions were also
+asked, and all my belongings were examined with ever-increasing
+astonishment as one thing after another was handled
+and investigated. I was tired, and felt as if I could have
+kicked the whole crowd of them out of my room; but I was
+unintentionally polite to them to such an extent that the
+<i>occamisan</i> loudly exclaimed&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Honto Danna, Anata Nihonno shto, onaji koto!</i>"&mdash;"Really,
+sir, you are just like a Japanese!"</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Domo neh!</i>" rose up in a chorus from the large assembly,
+"<i>nandemo dannasan wakarimas!</i>"&mdash;"The gentleman really
+understands everything!" This was a decided compliment,
+and I was bound to accept it as it was intended. When they
+heard that I was indeed "<i>Taihen kutabire mashita</i>" (very
+tired), they reluctantly left the room, and closed the <i>shoji</i>
+(sliding doors of tissue paper on a wooden frame). Each
+bowed gracefully, drawing in his breath at the same time.
+This is the Japanese polite way of leaving a room. Their
+conversation was resumed in the next apartment, regardless of
+the fact that tissue paper walls are not sound-proof. Remarks
+on me, not quite in harmony with their courteous bearing,
+were passed freely about, and the politest thing I heard them
+say was that I must be a <i>lunatic</i> to travel alone in these inhospitable
+regions, and what a pity it was for a man <i>so young</i> to
+be so fearfully afflicted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+"Oh, those <i>seyono shto</i> (foreigners) are all born lunatics,"
+said the voice of one who knew better.</p>
+
+<p>The Shibegari River, at the mouth of which Shimokebo is
+situated, is also called Shibe-chari&mdash;"sprinkled salmon river."
+Very minute traces of gold are found in the river-sands and
+gravels, and also some well-developed brown garnet crystals
+and quartzite and phyllite pebbles. The gold, however, is not
+in sufficient quantity to enable it to be worked profitably.
+Seven and a half miles from Shimokebo the Japanese Government
+has another horse farm similar to that of the At-pets.</p>
+
+<p>The travelling along the coast was heavy, and I could ride
+but slowly. I had to make the ponies go where the sand was
+wet along the beach, as there it was harder and they did not
+sink. This had its drawbacks, for the sea was very rough, and
+once or twice my ponies and I came very near being washed
+against the cliffs by some extra large wave. Instead of green
+banks, as between Tomakomai and Shimokebo, here were
+high cliffs of volcanic formation, with a narrow strip of sand at
+their foot.</p>
+
+<p>The few Ainu along the coast were decidedly ugly. It was
+only now and then that in a sheltered nook I came across
+a hut or two of seaweed gatherers; and, still following the
+cliffs, I passed two or three small villages of a few houses each.
+After fifteen miles of this heavy track I reached the fishing
+station of Ubahu, where I was able to obtain some fresh
+horses. Prowling along the beach, I examined some of the
+Ainu canoes that had been drawn on shore. They might be
+divided into three classes&mdash;(<i>a</i>) the "dug-outs," used mostly
+for river navigation; (<i>b</i>) the lashed canoe; and (<i>c</i>) a larger
+kind used for sailing. The "dug-out" does not require explanation,
+as everyone knows that it is a trunk of a tree
+hollowed out in the shape of a boat, and propelled either
+by paddling or punting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-037.png" width="600" height="94" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">AINU LASHED CANOE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="figleft" style="width: 129px;">
+<img src="images/illus-038a.png" width="129" height="70" alt="" title="FRONT VIEW OFLASHED CANOE." />
+<span class="caption">FRONT VIEW OF
+LASHED CANOE.</span></span>
+The lashed canoes are made of nine pieces of wood lashed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+together with the fibre of a kind of vine. The concave bottom
+is all of one piece&mdash;a partial "dug-out"&mdash;to which are added
+the side pieces, of three planks each, sewn together at an angle
+of about 170°, and made to fit the sides of the "dug-out."
+Two more pieces, one aft and one forward, meet the side
+planks at right angles. The length of these
+canoes varies from 10 to 15 feet, the width
+from 3 to 3½ feet. Two pieces of wood are
+then lashed horizontally, which answer the
+double purpose of strengthening the sides of
+the canoe and, being provided with pins outside
+the canoe, of allowing it to be used
+as an outrigger when rowing. Canoes are either rowed or
+sailed. The oars are made of two pieces firmly lashed
+<span class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-038b.png" width="600" height="51" alt="AINU OARS" />
+<span class="caption">AINU OARS.</span></span>
+together. A hole is bored in the part which is to be passed
+through the pin in the outrigger. One person is generally
+sufficient to row an Ainu canoe, and he does so standing.
+There is no steering gear or rudder, and when rowing the oars
+are used for that purpose. Ainu canoes are not decked, and
+therefore cannot stand heavy seas. They are alike on both
+sides, and in most cases the two ends of the canoe are also
+shaped alike. There are, however, certain canoes which, in
+my opinion, have been suggested to the Ainu by Japanese
+boats, and which are flat at the stern. These are generally
+larger, and used for sailing. A square mat sail is rigged on a
+<span class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-038c.png" width="600" height="94" alt="SAILING CANOE" />
+<span class="caption">SAILING CANOE.</span></span>
+short mast forward, and the steering is done with one of the
+oars at the stern. The sailing qualities of these canoes,
+however, are not very great, and the slightest squall causes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+them to capsize and "turn turtle." The anchors used by the
+Ainu are very ingenious; they are cut out of a piece of wood,
+<span class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img src="images/illus-039a.png" width="250" height="79" alt="AINU WOODEN ANCHORS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">AINU WOODEN ANCHORS.</span></span>
+with either one or two barbs, and
+two stones are fastened on the
+sides of the stem so as to carry
+the anchor to the bottom. No
+compass is either known or
+used by the Ainu, and the
+natives shape their course by sight of land. They very
+seldom go long distances out at sea, as they are fully aware of
+the dangers of the ocean and of the imperfection of their
+own methods of navigation, though they are wholly incapable
+of making any improvements by their own judgment. The
+canoes are always beached when not used, and each family
+possesses its own. There are none which are the property
+of companies or are common to certain villages.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-039b.png" width="600" height="87" alt="TOP VIEW OF AN AINU CANOE" />
+<span class="caption">TOP VIEW OF AN AINU CANOE.</span></span>
+The track between Ubahu and Urakawa is rough, and the
+rivers are somewhat troublesome. Not far from the Mitsuashi
+river one has to pass a tunnel which has been made
+through a rock projecting into the sea. In rough weather
+it is difficult and dangerous to get through, as the waves
+wash right through the tunnel. In fair weather it affords
+a safe passage to the traveller.</p>
+
+<p>The Matourabets (the winter fishing river) was successfully
+waded, and the Ikantai<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> village passed. Then at Urakawa
+or Urapets (the fish river) I made a halt for the night. There
+are many half-breeds at Urakawa, and a few real Ainu, but
+the small population is composed mostly of Japanese
+fishermen.</p>
+
+<p>Seven and a half miles further, at Shama-ne&mdash;a corruption
+of <i>Shuna</i>, stones, and <i>ne</i>, together&mdash;there are some magnificent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+granite pillars boldly standing out of the sea. The sandy beach
+came to an end, and huge cliffs barred my way in front. I
+could see that the water was not very deep round these rocks,
+as the waves were breaking a long distance from the cliff, a
+sure sign of shallow water, though even then it might have
+been too deep for my ponies to go through. With great
+difficulty I got the two brutes into the sea, trying to round the
+large rocks for the better ground, which I hoped to find on
+the other side. The tide was low, but the sea was still rough,
+and nearly every wave as it came in went right over my
+ponies, frightening them, and made them extremely difficult
+to hold. The instinct of self-preservation made them rush for
+the cliff, with the only result that they missed their footing,
+and they and I were both swept away by the next receding
+wave. I was carried off the saddle, but I had sufficient
+presence of mind to hold on to the bridle. An awful struggle
+ensued between my ponies and myself. Each wave that came
+carried and knocked us one way, each wave that retired carried
+and knocked us the other. In the midst of all this danger I
+suddenly remembered that some years ago a lady who knew all
+about palmistry prophesied that I should one day be drowned.</p>
+
+<p>Had the day come now? Not if energy and perseverance
+would avert the doom! After a long struggle, I succeeded in
+pulling my horses where the water was a little shallower, and
+there we three stood for some minutes, trembling with cold,
+my two ponies looking reproachfully at me with those half-human
+eyes of animals when forced into positions of danger
+which they can neither understand nor overcome. It is
+wonderful the amount of expression that horses have in their
+eyes, and how plainly one can read their dumb thoughts and
+formless emotions!</p>
+
+<p>From the point where I was standing I could see that I had
+to go on but a few hundred feet more, and that then my ponies
+and I would be safe. Sure enough, the water grew shallower
+and shallower, and, to my delight, I was soon on the other side
+of the cliff. At high tide, and in very rough weather, it is
+impossible to pass by this ocean-ford.</p>
+
+<p>Shamane is a picturesque little fishing village, built on the
+side of a promontory jutting out into the sea. From there,
+looking towards Urakawa, there is a lovely view of all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+small islands and picturesque rocks, standing like huge jewels
+in the water, while on the Horoizumi side, as far as the eye can
+see, there are only cliffs of peculiar shapes, and marvellously
+rich in colour.</p>
+
+<p>I got two fresh animals, and pursued my journey towards
+Horoizumi. Rocks, rocks, nothing but rocks! My ponies
+stumbled and slipped all the time, and for eighteen miles the
+riding was hard and intricate. I had to lead my ponies most
+of the way, and help them, pull them, or push them, from one
+rock on to another, and down the next, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery all along was magnificent and grand. A short
+distance from Shamane a large natural archway emerges from
+the sea, which is called by the Ainu, Shui-shma, "a hole in
+stone."</p>
+
+<p>Holes have been pierced through the rocks in several
+places, to give comparative safe passage, and to prevent
+wayfarers from being carried away by the waves. Over the
+entrance of one of these tunnels a pretty waterfall, descending
+from a great height, gives a poetic effect to the scene, while it
+obliges the unfortunate traveller to take an extremely cold
+shower-bath, should he wish to push forward on his journey.</p>
+
+<p>As if all these discomforts combined were not enough, it is
+to be added that the rivers in this part of the coast, though not
+wide, are extremely swift and dangerous to cross. My second
+pony was carried away by the strong current when I crossed
+the Poro-nam-bets,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> and I had great difficulty in rescuing him.</p>
+
+<p>At Shamane there are a few Ainu, but from there to
+Horoizumi I saw none.</p>
+
+<p>Sardines are very plentiful all along this coast, and long
+seaweeds also abound. The latter is used for export, chiefly
+to China. Horoizumi, a nice little village of one hundred
+and fifty houses, is the most picturesque in Yezo. It is built
+on the slopes of a high cliff, and it reminds one much of the
+pretty villages in the Gulf of Spezia. I arrived at sunset,
+and the warm red and yellow tints which the dying orb of
+day was shedding on the weather-beaten brownish houses,
+gave a heavenly appearance to this very earthly place. As
+I got nearer, a good deal of the heavenly had to be discarded,
+for the odours of fish-manure and of seaweed are two smells<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+which can hardly claim to be classed under that heading.
+The inhabitants of the place themselves seem to feel the
+ill-effects of constantly living in that corrupted atmosphere
+and on a fish and seaweed diet; for, indeed, it is revolting to
+see the amount of horrible cutaneous diseases which affect
+them. One hardly sees one creature out of ten that is not
+covered with a repulsive eruption of some sort. Leprosy, too,
+has found its way among the fishermen; and my readers can
+easily imagine how pleasant it was for me, when I was sketching,
+to be surrounded by a crowd of these loathsome people,
+who all wished to touch my clothes and all my belongings,
+and who would even lean on my back and rub their heads
+against mine, when trying to get a better view of the sketch.</p>
+
+<p>Poor things! I never had the courage to scold and send
+them away. It was enough that they were afflicted, and I did
+not like to add humiliation to their other sorrows by showing
+them my disgust.</p>
+
+<p>I rode on to Erimo-zaki, or Rat Cape. Thick fogs are
+prevalent during the summer months along the whole of the
+south-east coast, of which Erimo-zaki is the most southern
+cape. It is the terminating point of the backbone of the
+main portion of Yezo, which extends from Cape Soya to
+Cape Erimo from N.NW. to S.SE. A lighthouse has lately
+been erected on the cliffs by the Japanese Maritime Department,
+and a steam fog-horn has also been provided for the
+greater safety of navigation, as a reef of rocks and a stretch of
+shallow water extend out in the sea for about two and a half
+miles from the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The foghorn, I was informed, was only blown when the
+lighthouse-keeper suspected some ship was likely to make for
+the rocks! A likely thing, indeed!</p>
+
+<p>"But how are you to know, especially when there is a
+thick fog on?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"So few ships pass near here," was the reply; "and it
+would not be much use keeping steam up all the time to blow
+the horn, considering that we have fog during nearly four
+months in the year."</p>
+
+<p>"Then," I could not help remarking, "I expect you only
+light the lighthouse when there is going to be a wreck?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, no; we show the light every night."</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+This was just like the Japanese! Owing to the imperfectness
+of charts&mdash;none delineating correctly that part of the coast&mdash;the
+strong currents, the thick fogs, and the dangerous reefs,
+there could not be a more perilous coast for navigation than
+that which terminates in Cape Erimo. The ships which go from
+Shanghai, or some of the ports in the Petchili Gulf in China, to
+North American ports, often steer this course through the
+Tsugaru Strait and pass directly south of Cape Erimo. Thus
+the <i>Mary Tatham</i> (an English screw-steamer), while on her
+journey from Shanghai to Oregon, was lost in 1882, with nearly
+all lives on board, about two miles from this cape.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the Erimo cliffs is a small fishing village
+called Okos. The sea is shallow at this place, and there are
+many low-lying reefs which afford abundance of kelp and
+seaweeds.</p>
+
+<p>A short time before I arrived at Okos a man had gone out
+in his boat to save some nets in which a large fish had got
+entangled. His boat capsized, and he was drowned. His
+wife was in a dreadful state of mind, not for the loss of her
+better half, but for the more irreparable loss of the nets.</p>
+
+<p>The distance between Horoizumi and Cape Erimo is seven
+and a half miles, and the track is exceedingly rough in many
+places. Nearly half-way between the last-mentioned village
+and the cape are the three high pillars called <i>Utarop</i>, which
+are represented in the illustration at the head of the chapter.</p>
+
+<p>As it was impossible to take my ponies along the few miles
+between Cape Erimo and Shoya, following the precipitous
+coast, I retraced my steps to Horoizumi, meaning to attempt
+the mountain pass the next morning.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;">
+<img src="images/illus-043.jpg" width="237" height="142" alt="ERIMO CAPE" />
+<span class="caption">ERIMO CAPE.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 240px;">
+<img src="images/illus-044.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="A NATURAL STONE ARCHWAY NEAR SHOYA" />
+<span class="caption">A NATURAL STONE ARCHWAY NEAR SHOYA.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br />
+<span class="small">From Cape Erimo to the Tokachi River</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The mountain pass between Horoizumi and Shoya is supposed
+to be very dangerous on account of bears. I rode the
+ten miles quietly, but failed to meet or see any. The way
+through thick woods is exceedingly pretty. After traversing
+a small valley with a dense growth of scrub-bamboo, it climbs
+a small hill, from the top of which a lovely view of Cape
+Erimo lies like a picture before one's eyes. There are only
+thirty houses at Shoya, and the place could not be better
+described than by the words "a miserable hole." The rough
+weather, as well as several landslips, had some time before my
+arrival broken all communication between Shoya and the next
+village east of it. There is a rough mountain trail as far as
+Saruru, but my ponies could not possibly get through the
+scrub-wood and heavy climbing, and none of the natives could
+be induced to carry my luggage. They all positively refused
+to follow me on account of the multitude of bears which they
+said were on the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>"If the sea goes down," said an old fisherman, "you may be
+able to get through early to-morrow morning at low tide; and,
+if you are careful, you will not be washed away by the waves."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+The cliffs near Shoya are remarkable for their beauty. They
+are mostly older eruptive rocks which nature has carved into
+hundreds of rugged and fantastic forms. About a mile from
+the village is a huge natural archway, and from this point
+begin the precipitous cliffs, pillars, and rocks which make the
+journey so difficult.</p>
+
+<p>At Shoya there are no pure Ainu, but some of the fishermen
+exhibit traces of Ainu blood. My recollection of Shoya
+is decidedly not of a pleasant character. I put up in the
+house of a fisherman, which also answers the purpose of a tea-house
+for the few stranded native travellers.</p>
+
+<p>"We are so poor," said the landlord when I asked for something
+to eat, "and we have finished our provisions of rice.
+The other people in the village are poorer than we are, and
+they also have none; and as for fish, the sea has been so
+rough for several days that we have not been able to catch
+any. We ate the last scrap of fish we had just before you
+arrived! If you gave me a fortune, I could not give you anything
+to eat."</p>
+
+<p>When the landlord confessed this to me in the evening,
+I had already been fourteen hours without food. The prospect
+of not getting any more for at least the next eighteen or
+twenty hours was not an agreeable look-out. I was very
+hungry, but, failing a meal, the next best thing was to try and
+go to sleep. Even that did not prove successful, for hunger
+keeps you awake, and in its first stages sharpens all your
+senses considerably.</p>
+
+<p>The night I spent at Shoya is worthy of a description.
+From top to bottom the corners of my room were filled with
+webs, which the spiders had spun undisturbed in all directions
+across the room. Hundreds of flies and horseflies rose buzzing
+when I entered the room, and I had to engage in a very
+unequal war against them before I could settle down on the
+hard planks. In one corner of the ceiling a big, long-legged
+spider, too high for me to reach, was enjoying a good meal
+out of a huge horsefly which he had captured in his net.
+I almost envied the long-legged epicure. Nature will be
+ironical sometimes. When night came, and I was still sleepless,
+the planks on which I was lying seemed harder than any
+planks I had ever slept on before. I turned round one way,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+then the other, then another, till all my bones were aching.
+Finally, through exhaustion, I fell asleep, and even had a
+nightmare. In my dreams, the ghosts of all the spiders
+I had killed, magnified to the size of human beings,
+were dancing round me, while one fat old fellow&mdash;fatter
+than any two others put together&mdash;was gravely sitting
+on my chest watching the performance. His weight was
+such that I was nearly suffocated. Sometimes he would
+seize me by the throat and almost choke me, while the
+dancing spiders would choke themselves with laughing ...
+when&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Hayaku Danna!</i>"&mdash;"Quick, sir!" said a Japanese voice,
+waking me suddenly; "get up, or else the tide will rise, and
+you will not be able to get to Saruru."</p>
+
+<p>I opened my eyes; the dream passed, and the monstrous
+spiders vanished; but the pain caused by the emptiness
+of my stomach was still there, and my throat was dry and
+aching.</p>
+
+<p>It was before sunrise, and it was almost in complete darkness
+that I left Shoya. I was weak and chilly. The monotonous
+sound of the waves breaking over the shore added
+melancholy to <i>malaise</i>, and made me very doleful and limp.
+Nevertheless, as I was in for it, I pushed my way with my
+ponies along high cliffs and among rocks, and got on as best
+I could.</p>
+
+<p>Where the sea had receded the stones were slippery, and
+my two animals were no sooner on their feet than they were
+down again on their knees. The hollow sound of their hoofs
+on the rocks was echoed from cliff to cliff, and awakened the
+sleepy crows from their night's repose. I had to walk most of
+the way, and urge on my ponies with howls, as well as stir
+them up with the whip. Though the tide was low, the waves
+often washed up to my waist. Daylight came, and I went
+along, following the high, rugged cliffs, through tunnels
+occasionally, among rocks continually. The scenery was
+really magnificent, seen as it was in the mysterious morning
+light of the rising sun. My horses were done up when I got
+to Saruru, and I exchanged them for fresh ones. By this
+time the tide had risen, and it was not possible to proceed
+any further along the sea-shore. I was glad of it, as I should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+thus be forced to try the mountain track, which I was told
+was not so very rough from this point. A half-caste offered
+to show me the way. It was a very stiff climb among thick
+shrub, but it was comparatively smooth work after the
+experience of my journey from Shoya. I came across many
+tracks and footprints of bears on the mountain. In some
+places the marks were quite fresh and of different sizes,
+varying in length from one foot to four inches. The half-caste
+told me that black bears seldom attack men unless they are
+hungry. They often attack horses.</p>
+
+<p>"But if they hear that a man is near they will not dare to
+attack even the horses," he said, and then began to sing at the
+top of his voice. His singing, half Japanese, half Ainu, was
+so excruciating that it was no wonder to me that it kept the
+bears away.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed two rapid streams before reaching the summit
+of the mountain range. The view from the summit was
+lovely. In the distance I could distinguish two headlands,
+while an immense stretch of stormy sea and a high
+mountain were in the foreground. I began to descend,
+and again I got into the region of thick forest and scrub.
+I perceived a few houses near the coast, and we made for
+them. It was the village of Moyoro,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> or Biru, as it is called
+by others.</p>
+
+<p>Between Saruru and Biru, where the mountain track sometimes
+descends to the shore, I found many Ainu and half-breeds,
+especially in the two villages of Onnito<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> and Bitatannuki.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>
+They are said to be very bad, and what I saw of
+them, even at Biru, corroborated this assertion.</p>
+
+<p>Biru is situated on a small bay, in the centre of which some
+gigantic pillars stand out at a great height. The rough sea
+dashes against them, and thousands of crows and sea-birds
+have chosen these rocks for their abode. Biru is not a large
+village. There are only forty fishermen's huts, most of
+which are on the high cliff surrounding the small bay; the
+others are down on the beach. Kelp, seaweed, and sardines<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+are as abundant here as on the south-west coast, and
+maintain the staple industries of the inhabitants. The sea-weed
+is of great length but small width. Fourteen more
+miles over the cliffs brought me to Perohune.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> There
+were four large deltas to cross, that of the Toyoi-pets<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>
+being the largest. The current in all these rivers is extremely
+swift.</p>
+
+<p>Perohune enjoys a big name, but there is only one house in
+the place. I was, however, fortunate enough to get two good
+ponies there. The fog was settling down thicker and thicker,
+and I could not see more than a yard or two in front of me;
+but at times it lifted up for a few moments, and showed me
+either the dangers I was nearing or the landscape I was losing.
+I passed two lakes, the Tobuts,<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> otherwise called Oputs, and
+the Yuto. Both are divided from the sea by a narrow sand-ridge.
+There is but little of human interest along this deserted
+coast. There are no houses and no people, but many small
+rivers, and now and then high cliffs. My ponies, driven mad
+by the <i>abus</i>, the terrible horseflies of Yezo, constantly threw
+themselves down and rolled on the sand.</p>
+
+<p>From Perohune to Yuto Lake the distance is about eleven
+miles, and from Yuto to Otsu it is eleven more miles, on a
+very easy track. I saw some large sea-birds and penguins,
+and I was struck by the great number of drift logs which had
+been washed on shore by the sea. The last thirty-eight
+miles of the coast was literally covered with this drift wood.
+During the summer months the fog is always dense along this
+coast, greatly owing to a cold current which comes from the
+Otkoshk Sea, passes through the strait between Kunashiri
+and Etorofu, in the Kuriles, and then turns south, following a
+great part of the south-east coast of Yezo. Not far from
+Erimo Cape it meets a warm current from the China Sea,
+which passes through the Tsugaru Strait, and which in all
+probability is the Kuro-shiwo, or Japan current. This Japan
+current parts from the main stream near the south-western<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+extremity of Japan, goes through the Corean Strait, and
+follows the north-west coast of Nippon, passing then through
+the Tsugaru Strait. As will be seen later, a branch of this
+current runs along the north-west coast of Yezo, and through
+the La Perouse Strait.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-049.jpg" width="362" height="249" alt="IWA ROCKS AT BIRU" />
+<span class="caption">IWA ROCKS AT BIRU.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;">
+<img src="images/illus-050.jpg" width="357" height="262" alt="AINU HOUSES AND STOREHOUSE, FRISHIKOBETS, TOKACHI RIVER" />
+<span class="caption">AINU HOUSES AND STOREHOUSE, FRISHIKOBETS, TOKACHI RIVER.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br />
+<span class="small">The Tokachi Region&mdash;Pure Ainu Types&mdash;Curious Mode of River
+Fishing.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Tokachi River is one of the largest and most important
+in Yezo. Knowing that the Ainu either settle on the sea-shore
+or up river-courses, I formed an idea that some good
+types were to be found up this river. On reaching Otsu, a
+small settlement at the mouth of the Otsugawa&mdash;a branch of
+the large delta formed by the Tokachi&mdash;my idea was confirmed
+by the report that there were no Japanese villages in the
+interior. The expedition up the Tokachi River was by no
+means easy from the accounts I heard at Otsu. None of the
+Japanese ever dare to penetrate into the interior from Otsu,
+and, so far as foreigners are concerned, the Tokachi River was
+utterly unexplored. There is a certain charm in being the
+first man to do something, and I decided to attempt the
+experiment. The Japanese of Otsu dissuaded me strongly
+from carrying out my plan; for they said the grass and reeds
+were so high that I could not possibly get through.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+"It is a kind of a jungle, in fact," said they, "in which yellow
+and black bears are plentiful. The rivers, which are numerous,
+are swollen by the heavy rains that have fallen lately. The
+natives up the river are unsociable and bad, and they will kill
+you. Then in the high grass horse-flies, black-flies, and mosquitoes
+abound."</p>
+
+<p>"If you attempt it alone," said the wise man of the party,
+"you will not come back alive."</p>
+
+<p>These reports were not encouraging, but, anyhow, I determined
+that, Irish as it may sound, <i>dead</i> or <i>alive</i>, if there were
+any Ainu up the stream I would see them. Owing to the
+difficulty of taking even my usual baggage, and not wishing
+to burden my ponies with more than was necessary, I decided
+to carry with me only a paint-box, many wooden sketching
+panels, my diary, and my revolver. I left all my other things
+at Otsu to wait for my return.</p>
+
+<p>"Should you not come back again, can I keep all your
+belongings as my property?" kindly enquired the landlord of
+the tea-house, when I bade good-bye to him and to all the
+villagers who had collected round early in the morning to see
+me start.</p>
+
+<p>I took two ponies, as usual. I left Otsu at dawn, and
+followed as well as I could the winding course of the river.
+Not far from Otsu I came to the thick jungle of high reeds
+and tall grass of which I had already heard. I made my way
+through the first obstructions; but I had not been in the jungle
+more than a few minutes when I was simply devoured by
+horse-flies, mosquitoes, and black-flies. My ponies were kicking,
+bucking, and trying to bolt, as they also were literally
+covered with horse-flies, sucking their blood and stinging them
+to madness. The reeds and grass were about ten or twelve
+feet high, so that, being higher than myself on my horse, I
+could not see where I was going. I kept along the river bank
+as much as I could; but in many places it was difficult to get
+through the ravines which one invariably finds along rivers,
+so I kept a little way off on the west side, and had the noise
+of the running river to guide me. For many wearisome hours
+I rode through this jungle, the dividing reeds continually
+rubbing against my face, arms, and legs, sometimes making
+pretty deep cuts with their razor-edged long leaves. The huge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+<i>shirau</i>&mdash;the horse-flies&mdash;grew more and more tiresome as the
+sun got warmer, and my head and hands were swollen and
+bleeding. The sun was by this time high in the sky, but there
+were no signs of the jungle coming to an end, no indications
+of huts anywhere near&mdash;no other noise but the sound of the
+crashing reeds and the running water of the river. My ponies
+were feeding well, as grass was plentiful; but I was faring
+badly. What with the exertion of keeping the ponies in
+order, while the densely-entangled reeds nearly dragged me off
+the saddle&mdash;what with the plague of mosquitoes and horse-flies,
+added to the sense of weakness caused by fatigue and hunger&mdash;it
+was really a terrible time for me&mdash;one of the worst
+episodes in my life. Nevertheless, I persevered, and went on
+and on, determined to reach my destination. I came upon
+two very large swamps, which forced me to make a wide
+<i>détour</i>. The ponies were very tired, and so was I. When
+darkness set in I halted, took the heavy pack-saddles off the
+ponies, and tied the animals to them, so that they could not
+bolt during the night; and wearied, disheartened, and discouraged
+as I was, I began to think how stupid I had been to
+start on such an expedition without carrying any provisions
+with me&mdash;without having provided myself with even a tent or
+a covering of any kind.</p>
+
+<p>Circumstances made me a philosopher. What is the use of
+worrying about things that cannot be helped? After all,
+when you get accustomed to it, starving is really not so bad
+as people think. One of my ponies was of a sentimental
+disposition, and he seemed to understand my troubles. He
+came close and rubbed himself against me, placing his head
+near mine. It was touching, and in the solitude in which I
+was the sympathy of the dumb beast was as precious as that
+of a human being. Had he been able to speak, he might
+have been taken for a Christian, and a good one, too! He
+had been fearfully stung by horse-flies, and my petting him
+seemed to alleviate his pain. There is nothing like sympathy
+and a little personal kindness if one wants to make friends with
+animals. The last few rays of light were spent in putting
+together the notes which I had taken during the day, and
+which enabled me to draw a sketch-map of the river. At
+Horoizumi some days previously I was able to buy myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+a compass from a Japanese fisherman, and on this occasion it
+was extremely useful to me.</p>
+
+<p>By the soft, or rather shrill, music of a full orchestra of
+mosquitoes I fell asleep. It was poetic, but not comfortable.
+Strange noises woke me several times during the night. My
+ponies also were very restless, and repeatedly tried to get
+loose while I was lying down on the two saddles to which they
+were fastened.</p>
+
+<p>It was some time after sunrise when I woke up, and with
+stiff bones set off again. A heavy dew had fallen during the
+night, and had made my clothes very damp. The reeds and
+grass also were saturated with water, and riding through them
+caused a continuous shower to fall over me, giving me an
+uncomfortable and by no means efficient kind of shower bath.</p>
+
+<p>I rode in a westerly direction till about two or three in the
+afternoon, when suddenly the jungle came to an end. Not
+only that, but a short distance away I saw some Ainu huts.
+I soon reached them, dismounted, and tied my ponies to a tree.
+I went to the first hut, and previous to going in I called out:
+"Hem, hem, hem, hem!" which in the Ainu country is the
+polite preliminary when a stranger wishes to enter a hut. The
+usual practice of <i>knocking</i> at the door is dispensed with, for
+Ainu doorways have <span class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Corrected from the original 'do'.">no</span> doors.</p>
+
+<p>"Hem, hem, hem, hem, hem!" called I again much louder,
+but I heard no answer; so I lifted the mat and entered the
+hut. It was empty. No one was there. I came out again,
+and went into the next hut, into another, and yet another; but
+nobody was to be found. I supposed that they were all out
+fishing. From the roof in each hut was hanging some dried
+and half-dried salmon. I could not resist the temptation after
+nearly thirty-four hours of involuntary fasting; and I stole&mdash;I
+mean "conveyed," or helped myself to the largest fish. I
+was greedily eating it&mdash;and how good it was!&mdash;when I thought
+I heard a groan inside the hut. I listened, and I distinctly
+heard some one sniffing in a corner of the dark dwelling. Had
+I been caught stealing? The crime I had committed would
+be called felony at home, but in the Ainu country it has not
+nearly so bad a name as that. However, felony or not, I
+dropped the fish, or rather what remained of it, and made for
+the corner whence the noise came. As I got closer I discerned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+a mass of white hair and two claws, almost like thin human
+feet with long hooked nails. A few fish-bones scattered on the
+ground and a lot of filth were massed together in that corner;
+and the disgusting odours these exhaled were beyond measure
+horrible.</p>
+
+<p>"What the devil is that!" I said aloud in my own native
+tongue. I could hear someone breathing heavily under that
+mass of white hair, but I could not make out the shape of a
+human body. I touched the hair, I pulled it, and with a groan,
+and movements similar to those of a snake uncoiling itself,
+two thin bony arms suddenly stretched out and clasped my
+hand. As my eyes were getting accustomed to the dim light
+I thought I saw some almost worn-out tattoo marks on her
+arms. Yes, it was a woman in that corner, though her limbs
+were merely skin and bone, and her long hair and long nails
+gave her a ghastly appearance. Indeed, crouched as she was,
+doubled up, with her head on her knees, and the long hair
+falling over her face and shoulders, it was really difficult to
+make out what she was.</p>
+
+<p>I asked her to come out, but she was apparently deaf and
+dumb. I dragged her out, and she made but little resistance;
+only she preferred crawling on her hands and knees to
+walking upright on her feet. There is no accounting for
+people's tastes, and I let her please herself in her manner of
+locomotion. When she was fairly out in the light I shivered
+as I looked at the miserable being before me. I lifted up her
+hair to see the face. Her eyebrows were thick and shaggy,
+and were joined over the nose. Her eyes were half closed, and
+dead-looking. The strong light seemed to affect her, and with
+her hands she was feeling the ground, probably in order to
+retrace her steps back to the dark spot. Nature could not
+have inflicted more evils on that wretched creature. She was
+nearly blind, deaf, and dumb; she apparently suffered from
+rheumatism, which had doubled up her body and stiffened
+her bony arms and legs; and, moreover, she showed many
+of the symptoms of leprosy. Altogether, she was painful,
+horrible, disgusting, and humiliating to contemplate.</p>
+
+<p>I went back to my ponies to fetch my paint-box. During
+my absence there had collected round them half-a-dozen Ainu.
+They did not know what to think of the appearance of the two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+animals, and the few articles fastened to the pack-saddle were
+regarded with suspicion. When I appeared on the scene their
+astonishment was even greater, and it reached its climax when
+I saluted them in the Ainu fashion, and told them that I was
+a friend of the Ainu. I unfastened my paint-box and went
+back to the old woman. She was still where I had left her.
+All the Ainu present followed me, and when I squatted down
+they did the same in a semicircle round me. My wretched
+model attempted several times to crawl inside the hut, but as
+I was sitting close to her, I prevented
+her from doing so. There
+she sat in the most extraordinary
+position, with her head resting on
+her left hand, and the stiff fingers
+of her right hand pressed on the
+ground. One leg was bent up and
+the other was folded, resting on the
+ground and on the foot of the first.
+She was sniffing the wind, and
+making efforts to see with her half-blind
+eyes.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 138px;">
+<img src="images/illus-055.jpg" width="138" height="196" alt="MADWOMAN OF YAMMAKKA" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MADWOMAN OF YAMMAKKA.</span></div>
+
+<p>It is hardly necessary to say that
+I did not keep my model longer
+than was strictly necessary, and
+when the sketch was finished I
+took her by the arm, brought her back into the hut, and
+led her to her favourite corner. There she crouched herself
+again, as I had found her; and there I left her, to bear the
+miseries of her life, till death, the cure of all woes, shall take
+away her soul, if not her body, from the filth she had lived in.
+She was neither ill-treated nor taken care of by the villagers
+or by her son, who lived in the same hut; but she was regarded
+as a worthless object, and treated accordingly. A fish was
+occasionally flung to her, as one would to a beast, and in such
+a condition this human being had lived, or rather existed,
+apparently for several years. Not a word was uttered by
+the villagers during the few minutes I took to paint the sketch.
+I turned round to inspect my new friends. Others had
+come up, and these men and women, hairy and partly naked,
+squatting down amidst filth, and driven half mad by the horse-flies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+and black-flies, looked just like a large family of restless
+monkeys. They were gentle and kind&mdash;much more so than
+any of their more civilised brethren; and one of them, a fine
+old man, came forward when I came out of the hut and wished
+me to go and see a big yellow bear they had captured. I went,
+and near the man's hut, in a rough square cage made of
+crossed branches of trees, was Bruin grinding his teeth as we
+drew near. In a sing-song monotone the man told me the
+story of the hunt, and how the bear had been captured. Then
+we went from one hut to another all through the village.
+Yamakubiro is the name given to the huts taken collectively,
+but the man took good care to explain to me that one part of
+the village (numbering only seven houses) was called Tchiota,
+and the other, a short distance away, was named Yammakka.
+Tchiota in the Ainu language means "dead-sand," and Yammakka
+is "land in behind."</p>
+
+<p>Yammakka has ten huts. The hut in which I had to put up
+was more than filthy, and I had a sort of presentiment that
+my landlord was a scoundrel. He saw me giving a small
+silver Japanese coin to a girl I had painted. From that
+moment I noticed his eyes were continually fixed on my
+waistcoat pocket, out of which I had taken the coin. However,
+I did not think much of that, as all Ainu are fond of beads,
+metals, or anything that shines. When the evening came I
+tried to go to sleep on the hard planks, as usual. There is
+undoubtedly more <i>board</i> than <i>lodging</i> about Ainu accommodation.
+Myriads of Taikkis, the tiny but troublesome and
+uninvited guests of all dirty dwellings, did me the honour
+to sup off the few drops of blood which remained in my
+veins. I owed it to a bottle of Keating's Powder that I was
+not carried away bodily by them. I felt cold and feverish, and
+having no civilised bed-clothes to cover me, I slept with my
+clothes on; and this the more willingly, as I felt an instinctive
+mistrust of my host, and I thought it was as well to be ready
+for any emergency.</p>
+
+<p>A few salmon were hanging right over my nose. They
+hung low, but they smelt high. I had been given a place in
+the south-west corner of the hut, and my landlord retired to
+the north-east corner. Though this may sound very far, my
+host was really not more than a few feet away from me. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+apparently thought that I had gone to sleep, for I heard him
+creep to my side. I could not see him, being in absolute
+darkness, but though he was evidently holding his breath, I
+could feel the warmth of his face near mine. He was listening
+to hear if I were asleep. I kept quiet, and pretended to snore.
+This gave him courage, and sliding his hand gently along my
+arm, he came to a pocket in my coat. He began to explore
+it&mdash;but the Ainu are an unfortunate people even when they
+try to steal. He had got hold of a pocket with no bottom to
+it&mdash;a common occurrence in my coats. The more he explored,
+the more he found there was to explore. I am fond myself of
+explorations, and I have no objection to a fellow-being, hairy
+or not hairy, "prospecting" my empty pockets or my pockets
+which have no bottom to them. However, my host was not
+satisfied with the first results of his researches, and with his
+hand still through the torn lining of the coat-pocket proceeded
+to investigate the contents of my waistcoat pockets.
+This was a different matter altogether, and catching hold of
+him before he was able to disentangle himself, I swung his
+arm away and hit him hard on the head with my right fist.</p>
+
+<p>"Wooi!" cried he in despair, and half stunned, as he
+scrambled away as best he could to his north-east corner.
+By way of apology and excuse, and with a trembling
+voice, the man from his corner said that he had only come to
+sleep on my side of the hut, as the wind was blowing strong
+where he had lain down, and that my side was warmer. A
+good excuse indeed when you are caught <i>flagrante delicto</i>
+pickpocketing!</p>
+
+<p>The salmon which my host gave me last night for dinner
+and this morning for breakfast was so rotten, that, hungry as
+I was, I could not eat it. From Yammakka, in a westerly
+direction, the way begins with a gentle incline; therefore there
+is a complete absence of the high and troublesome reeds which
+I had found in the vast marshy plain I had crossed on my
+way here from the coast. I intended pushing on to Frishikobets,
+a larger village some miles off. The old scoundrel
+wanted to accompany me part of the way, saying that there
+were two dangerous rivers to cross, and he would show me
+where to wade them. I fancied that they were as dangerous
+as they were imaginary, and I started off declining his offer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+I came across several Ainu huts on my way, passed the village
+of Pensatsunai&mdash;six Ainu huts&mdash;on the Satsunai river, an
+affluent of the Tokachi, and then arrived at Obishiro in the
+afternoon. There are seven houses at Obishiro. I entered
+one of them, and to my astonishment I found myself in
+front of an old man and a pretty woman, whose appearance
+and manners were as refined as those of the better classes in
+Japan. A younger man also came in. Their astonishment
+was as great as mine, as they had not seen any civilised beings
+since they had been there. Though the outside of their
+dwelling was not prepossessing, the inside was so clean that I
+felt as if I had dropped into heaven. After what I had gone
+through, this unexpected <i>rencontre</i> brought me back to life
+and a belief in the proprieties of a civilised existence, almost
+forgotten by now!</p>
+
+<p>These people had a romantic history. Watanabe Masaru&mdash;the
+younger man&mdash;was a Japanese gentleman by birth and
+education, but he had no fortune. Of an adventurous disposition,
+clever, sensitive, and tired of the conventionalities of his
+fatherland, he decided eight or ten years ago to emigrate to
+Hokkaido, and there lead the life of a colonist. The
+woman he loved was as brave and constant as he. She
+sailed with him and her father from Japan, and after a long
+and perilous journey in a junk (sailing boat), they landed at
+the mouth of the Tokachi River. In Ainu canoes they went
+up the river, and established themselves at Obishiro, far from
+civilisation, nearly in the centre of Yezo. At first they had a
+great deal of trouble with the natives, but now they are loved
+by all. There, with two lovely children, they lead an ideal
+life, far from the madding crowd and noise of the world, and
+freed from the vulgarity of society.</p>
+
+<p>I rode on to Frishikobets village, situated on the Frishiko,
+"old river," and in the midst of a beautiful plain. There are
+only twenty-eight houses, and they are scattered about in the
+plain at a distance of several hundred yards one from the
+other. Some of the huts were hidden in the forest. A peculiarity
+of the Ainu of the Upper Tokachi River is, that they
+frequently cover their dwellings and storehouses with the bark
+of trees, instead of with reeds, as is the custom among the
+Ainu of the Saru River and Volcano Bay.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+I was told here again that Ainu women often suckle small
+bears at their breasts so as to fatten them up for the festival;
+and one not infrequently sees the women in Ainu households
+chewing food, and letting the young cub take it from
+their lips.</p>
+
+<p>These Ainu are much more interesting as types, and also
+much purer in race, than either the Piratori or the Volcano
+Bay Ainu. A learned missionary, who has not himself visited
+these people, writes as follows regarding them:&mdash;"The Ainu of
+the Tokapchi district, in Yezo, are spoken of as having been
+particularly addicted to this kind of warfare (night raids against
+each other, in which the men were murdered, and the women
+stolen and used as slaves or kept as concubines), and are
+even now held in abhorrence by the people of some villages.
+They are said not only to have murdered people, but
+also to have eaten some of them. They were, therefore,
+cannibals, and I have heard them spoken of as 'eaters of
+their own kind.'"<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p>
+
+<p>From my own personal experience&mdash;and I may add I am the
+only foreigner who has seen these Tokachi, or as others call
+them, Tokapchi Ainu&mdash;I came to a conclusion very different
+from this. I found that not only were they not cannibals, but
+that, taken altogether, they were the most peaceable, gentle,
+and kind Ainu I came across during my peregrinations
+through the land of the hairy people. Indeed, I am sorry to
+say that it is not savagery that makes the Ainu bad, but it is
+civilisation that demoralises them. The only place in Yezo
+where I was actually ill-treated by Ainu, as my readers will
+remember, is the village where they were said to be "very
+civilised."</p>
+
+<p>I have no wish to force my opinion on the public as the
+correct one. I do but describe what I have actually seen in a
+district in which others who have written on this subject have
+never set foot, and I leave it to my readers to judge who has
+most claim to be heard.</p>
+
+<p>The language of the Tokachi Ainu varies considerably from
+the language spoken in more civilised districts, and none of
+the natives up the river could speak Japanese when I was
+there.</p>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 552px;">
+<img src="images/illus-060.png" width="552" height="600" alt="AINU WOMAN OF FRISHIKOBETS, ON THE TOKACHI RIVER." />
+<span class="caption">AINU WOMAN OF FRISHIKOBETS, ON THE TOKACHI RIVER.</span></div>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, the Ainu of this region are not very
+numerous, and constant intermarriage among near relations
+has proved detrimental to the race. However, a glance at
+them is quite sufficient to show the difference between them
+and Ainu of other tribes. They are not so picturesquely
+arrayed as their more western brothers, and the large Japanese
+brass and silver earrings, as well as the glass bead necklaces
+which make such a brave show yonder, are replaced here by
+rough bone or wooden ornaments. Men and women in
+summer are almost entirely naked, and all children are clad
+in their own bare skins only. Their winter garments are
+made of bear and deer skins. Some peculiar snow-sandals,
+made of the bark of a kind of ash-tree called <i>shina</i>, are sometimes
+worn over the winter salmon-skin boots or moccasins.
+The Ainu make their ropes out of the bark of this <i>shina</i>,
+though often young vine stems are used for the same purpose.
+River fishing-nets are generally made of young vines twisted.
+They are of the roughest description, and are only fit for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+rivers where fish is abundant, as in the Yezo watercourses.
+The Ainu at Frishikobets took very kindly to sitting for their
+portraits, and one after the other&mdash;all the best types&mdash;were
+immortalised either in oils or in pencil. Strange to say, I
+came across another old woman, a lunatic, very similar to the
+one I saw at Yammakka. Her face was that of a witch,
+her eyebrows joining downwards somewhat in the shape of
+an owl's beak. Her long pale hands and face, and the long
+wild hair covering half her face, gave her a striking appearance.
+She had, however, not yet reached the stage of imbecility
+which her Yammakka sister had attained. Lunacy
+is very common among the Ainu, and the unfortunate creature
+thus afflicted seems to lose not only the respect, but also the
+pity, as well as care, of all the others, and is treated by them
+as a worthless animal.</p>
+
+<p>After crossing the Frishikobets River, some distance off, on
+the east side of the Tokachi River, are the villages of Upar-penai,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>
+twenty-one Ainu huts, Memuro-puto,<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> sixteen huts,
+and Ottoinnai,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> fourteen huts. Then comes Kinney, with
+seven houses; and finally Nitumap,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> the last village on the
+Tokachi River, has as many as thirty-six houses.</p>
+
+<p>The huts of the Tokachi region are much smaller than
+those on the Saru River, and near many of them is a cage,
+in which a big yellow or black bear is confined. The natives
+told me that yellow and black bears were numerous in the
+neighbourhood. Deer (the <i>yuk</i>, male deer, and <i>mowambe</i>,
+female), were formerly plentiful, but now are very scarce.
+A few years ago a pestilence killed great numbers of them,
+and since then they have dwindled away.</p>
+
+<p>Not many miles from Frishikobets a huge cliff rises perpendicularly
+along the Shikarubets River. A landslip seems
+to have taken place, which leaves one side of the cliff perfectly
+bare and rugged, showing the strata composing the soil.
+It is of a light yellowish colour, and it is called by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>
+Ainu the <i>Shikarubets Otchirsh</i>, which translated into English
+means "the white cliff on the bend of the river." This cliff
+stands very high, and can be seen from a great distance,
+especially in a north-east, east, or southerly direction. In
+winter, when the rushes and reeds are not so high in the south-eastern
+portion of the plain, the white cliff can be distinguished
+from the whole of the Tokachi valley. The Ainu themselves
+use the Shikarubets Otchirsh as a landmark when out hunting
+bears. Owing to its light colour it is visible even at night.
+I was anxious to ascend it, as I was sure no European foot
+had ever trodden on it before. Accompanied by Watanabe
+Masaru, I started out on horseback and crossed the Frishikobets
+village and river. Here we left our horses under the
+care of an Ainu till our return. We had to cross the Tokachi
+in an Ainu "dug-out," and then, proceeding for several miles
+in a northerly direction, we arrived at the foot of the mountain.
+It would have been impossible to climb it on the east side, as
+it is quite perpendicular; but we were fortunate in getting an
+Ainu called Unacharo, who said he knew a point from which
+we could ascend, and that he would show us the way. He
+had been hunting bears on that mountain, and he knew its
+slopes well; but as to the way which he was to show us, we
+had to make it for ourselves. With our large knives we were
+forced to break, cut, and tear the entangled branches of trees
+and shrubs before we could get on. We actually had to cut
+our way through the dense scrubwood until we reached the
+summit. The ascent was rather dangerous in some places,
+and extremely rough when going through the brushwood.
+We had to keep as much as possible near the edge of the
+cliff, for though it involved more danger if we slipped or
+stumbled, the entangled shrubs were not so thick on the edge
+as farther inland. Finally, after several hours' hard work, we
+reached the top, and were well repaid for our fatigues. The
+whole of the Tokachi valley was stretched before us as far as
+the sea, and almost the whole course of the winding river, with
+all its numerous affluents, could be distinguished like so many
+shining silver ribbons on the green background formed by the
+tall grass and reeds. As a farming region the Tokachi valley
+and high plains are certainly the most fertile in Hokkaido.
+All the requisites for successful agriculture can be found there.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+The absence of the mountain masses of volcanic rocks, so
+common all over Hokkaido, the richness of the soil, the
+quantity of water for irrigation or for motive power, besides
+the comparative facility of making roads on such flat ground,
+are qualities that good farmers do not generally despise. It
+is therefore a great pity to see all that Tokachi valley
+practically deserted and so much good land wasted. Hemp,
+wheat, corn, potatoes, beans, and all kinds of vegetables and
+cereals, could be grown with advantage, and the produce
+carried down the river to the sea without much difficulty and
+at little expense. At Yamakubiro the land begins to rise in a
+gentle slope, but only to form a plateau, of which the top is
+another large plain reaching to the foot of the Oputateishike
+mountain mass. The Otopke Mountain is the highest peak,
+and resembles in shape the Fujiama of Japan. On the north-east
+side of this mountain are the hot springs of Ni-piri-bets.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>
+A kind of wood is said by the Ainu to be found near these
+hot springs which is good for curing wounds, cuts, rheumatism,
+and other ailments. These hot springs are not of much
+importance, and it is but seldom that even the Ainu themselves
+visit them. In going to and returning from these
+springs the Shikarubets Otchirsh is never lost sight of by the
+Ainu, and by the aid of this landmark they return safely to
+their homes.</p>
+
+<p>All the Oputateishike mountain mass is volcanic, and forms
+the backbone of the island of Yezo. From the Shikarubets
+Otchirsh I was able to draw a bird's-eye view of the course
+of the Tokachi River and its affluents, which afterwards
+helped me much in delineating a sketch-map of the Tokachi
+region, with its complicated watercourses. The two high
+mountains of Satsumai and Ghifzan could also be plainly
+seen from there. Coming down was much easier than going
+up, and when we had again reached the bottom of the
+mountain we turned northward until we came to the Shorui-washi
+River, an affluent of the Tokachi. Previous to this,
+while following the course of the Otsu River, I saw a strange
+sight. When on the summit of the Shikarubets Otchirsh I
+had seen two Ainu "dug-outs" pass up the river, and the Ainu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+who accompanied us said we should soon see them coming
+back again. We were not far from the river banks when
+shouts and cries of excitement reached my ears. I hurried on
+to the water-side and saw the two "dug-outs" swiftly coming
+down with the strong current, parallel with each other at a
+distance of about seven feet apart. There were three people
+in each "dug-out," viz., a woman with a paddle steering at
+the prow; another woman crouched up at the stern, and a
+man in the middle. A coarse net made of young vines,
+and about five feet square, was fastened to two poles seven
+or eight feet long. The man who stood in the centre
+of each canoe held one of the poles, to the upper end of
+which the net was attached, and attentively watched the
+water.</p>
+
+<p>"They are catching salmon&mdash;look!" said Unacharo to me;
+"the salmon are coming up the stream from the sea."
+The small net was plunged into the water between the two
+canoes, and nearly each time a large salmon was scooped out
+and flung into one or other of the "dug-outs," where the woman
+sitting at the stern crushed its head with a large stone. If a
+fish escaped, yells of indignation, especially from the women
+folk, broke out from the boats, to be echoed by the high white
+cliff. Both men and women were naked, and the dexterity
+and speed with which they paddled their canoes down the
+stream, working the coarse net at the same time, seldom
+missing a fish, was simply marvellous. On the other hand, it
+must be remembered that fish were so plentiful in the river,
+that it was really easier to catch than to miss. In wading the
+Shikarubets (river) I could see large salmon passing me by
+the dozen, and I felt quite uncomfortable when some large
+fish either rubbed itself against or passed between my legs.
+We got across the Shorui-washi&mdash;literally "very burning a
+place to stand"&mdash;and having then gone far enough from the
+Shikarubets Otchirsh to see the whole of it, I managed to take
+a good sketch of it. Near this river are some hot springs,
+called Nishibets, from which the river has taken its peculiar
+name. The easiest way to the Otopke Mountain is to follow
+the valley between the Shikarubets and the Otopke River, and
+then climb the mountain on the north-east side. The latter
+part of the journey is extremely rough and difficult. Watanabe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+and I returned to Obishiro. It is not often that one anywhere
+meets with such simple, straightforward people as these
+Watanabes. They have lived alone at Obishiro for eight
+years among savages, but never in my life have I met with
+more civilised, kind, thoughtful, gentle beings than Watanabe
+and his wife. As civilisation makes savages bad, I dare say
+savage life makes civilised people good! I go away carrying
+with me a deep affection for these gentle strangers, whose
+kindness to me has made them my friends.</p>
+
+<p>The day came for me to return to the coast. My ponies,
+probably frightened by bears, broke loose during the night, and
+one of them ran away; and I was rather in a difficulty as to
+how I should get back whence I had come. Watanabe, adding
+kindness to kindness, allowed me to have one of his ponies,
+and after repeated good-byes I started on my journey back to
+the coast. About four miles east of Yammakka the Tokachi
+River receives a large affluent, the Toshibets, or "river of high
+swamps." The Tunnui Puto is the largest of these swamps,
+about four miles north of the mouth of the Toshibets. <i>Tunnui</i>
+means a kind of tree, probably the <i>Quercus dentata</i>; <i>puto</i> or
+<i>put</i> means the mouth of a river. The course of the Toshibets
+River is almost from due north to south from its source, then
+for about six or seven miles from north-west to south-east,
+and, sharply turning again from north to south, continues in
+this direction winding continually for eighteen or twenty
+miles, till it throws itself with a large body of water in the
+Tokachi River. On the southern side of the latter part of the
+watercourse are found the Ainu villages of Pombets, twenty-two
+huts; Purokenashpa,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> three huts; Kenashpa,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> twelve
+huts; and Beppo,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> eleven huts. The characteristics of the
+natives of these villages and their habitations are similar to
+those already described at Frishikobets. The journey down
+was much the same as that coming up. Tobuts, on the north
+side of the Tokachi, is the largest Ainu village in the district,
+and has as many as sixty huts. The inhabitants are possessed
+of a somewhat fiery temper in this particular village, and the day
+previous to my going through two men were killed in a row.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+I felt awfully annoyed at being just one day too late to see it,
+as then I might have described how the Ainu die. However,
+I reached the other side of the Tokachi again. A way through
+the same tall rushes and reeds had to be forced, and the same
+army of mosquitoes and horse-flies had to be met and endured.
+It was my intention to push on and reach the coast as soon as
+possible. At Yammakka the natives had seen my runaway
+pony galloping at full speed towards the coast, but no one
+had caught it. Probably no one had tried.</p>
+
+<p>My ponies went well. I could plainly see where I had
+already come through the jungle, by the long trail of crushed
+and broken reeds I had left behind me. Everything was
+calm, but for the monotonous sound of crashing leaves
+produced by my forcing my way through the reeds. Suddenly
+my ponies stopped, shied, and began to back. They sniffed
+the ground, then the air. Their ears were straight up, their
+eyes were restless, and their nostrils widely distended. They
+were certainly under some great excitement, and showed
+unmistakable signs of terror. "What could be the cause of
+it?" I asked myself, but all the same gave the ponies a sound
+thrashing to make them go. It was useless&mdash;they would not
+stir. The second pony came by the side of mine, and they
+both put their heads together, in their own way consulting and
+concerting. They were utterly demoralised, and were kicking
+awfully. It was getting dark, and this riotous conduct on the
+part of my ponies was annoying. Unexpectedly, and with a
+tremendous growl, a huge black bear sprang towards us, and
+tried to seize the baggage pony. However, he and the beast
+I was riding bolted, and ran a desperate race for life; and
+though Bruin followed us clumsily for some time, we soon
+were far ahead, and lost sight of him. It was more than I
+could do to stop the frightened brutes; but finally, after a
+reckless steeplechase of many miles, after jumping over
+brooks and splashing across torrents, flying over the ground
+and through the jungle, without omitting to anathematise a
+horsefly that had settled on the back of my neck, and was
+amusing itself by boring holes in different parts of it to find a
+suitable spot for feeding, finally we came to a halt. It was
+about time. During the violent ride the reeds had cut my
+face and neck and hands, and I was bleeding all over. I went<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+on and on, and, as my ponies did not seem to be very tired, I
+tried to reach the coast that night. It grew dark, but the
+night was fine, and I let the noise of the running river guide
+me. Each minute seemed an hour, each hour an age. I rode
+and rode, and still rode, till I was nearly exhausted; and still
+I was surrounded by the tall reeds and rushes. "Thank
+God!" I heartily exclaimed, when finally, at a small hour of
+the morning, I found myself in open ground again, and the
+wind brought in waves the salt smell of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>An hour or so afterwards two tired ponies were easily
+pulled up at the tea-house at Otsu, the landlord was roused,
+and a wearied and half-starved traveller was let in.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
+<img src="images/illus-067.jpg" width="359" height="248" alt="THE SHIKARUBETS OTCHIRSH" />
+<span class="caption">THE SHIKARUBETS OTCHIRSH.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="small" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 478px;">
+<img src="images/illus-068.png" width="478" height="600" alt="AINU MAN OF THE UPPER TOKACHI" />
+<span class="caption">AINU MAN OF THE UPPER TOKACHI.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br />
+<span class="small">From the Tokachi River to the Kutcharo River.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>I decided to stop a day at Otsu, so as to recover from the
+fatigue of my late travels and adventures, and I chose my
+quarters in the <i>yadoya</i> of a Japanese called Inomata Yoshitaro.
+I was told that he was an ex-convict. Be that as it
+may, he had now turned into a fisherman and innkeeper.
+Like all Japanese, he was an inexhaustible talker, and his
+politeness was so great that it became a bore.</p>
+
+<p>It was about three in the morning when I reached Otsu. I
+had taken off my boots on entering his house&mdash;for it is an
+insult to enter Japanese houses with one's boots on&mdash;and I
+had seated myself on the soft mat in order to rest my aching
+limbs, when Yoshitaro made me get up to place a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+square cushion under me, on which he said I should be more
+comfortable. I had not been on it one minute before Yoshitaro,
+wanting to increase my comforts, made me rise again to
+exchange the first cushion covered with cotton for one covered
+with silk&mdash;a detail to which a man is not likely to pay much
+attention when tired to death, and only anxious to be left
+alone. It followed as a matter of course that before I was
+allowed to go to sleep I had to sip several cups of tea, which
+Yoshitaro's wife had hurriedly made, and I had to relate the
+result of my expedition to the sleepy fishermen who had crept
+out of their <i>foutangs</i> at the news of my arrival. In spite of
+all this, when I had got rid of my audience I had a good
+night's rest; but when I woke up the next day at noon I
+found myself surrounded by a crowd of fishermen of Otsu,
+who had invaded the <i>yadoya</i> to have a peep at the young
+foreigner, while in the back yard I recognised the voices of
+Yoshitaro and his wife, who evidently were occupied in the
+exciting chase of a fowl.</p>
+
+<p>A few minutes later Yoshitaro triumphantly entered the
+room with a large dish, on which the same fowl, uncooked, and
+cut into a thousand little bits, was served to me, together with
+pieces of raw salmon, <i>daikon</i> (a vegetable), and boiled rice.
+This he called a European dinner! I did my best to roast
+the chicken bits on the <i>hibachi</i> (the brazier); but I was never
+well up in the culinary art, and, as my landlord remarked, he
+had brought up the meat for me to eat, not to "burn."</p>
+
+<p>Fowls are very scarce indeed in Hokkaido, and the few
+found have been imported; therefore the landlord did not
+fail to explain, in a roundabout manner, under what great
+obligation I was to him for killing such a precious bird.</p>
+
+<p>I said that I had not asked him to do this, and with his
+perfect Japanese politeness, bowing gracefully down to the
+ground, he said:</p>
+
+<p>"Sayo de gozarimas" ("Yes, your honourable sir").
+"But," he added, "the bird was so old that if I had not killed
+it I fear it would have died by itself ere long." Such a
+sacrifice undoubtedly deserved a reward, and he assured me
+that we should be "quite even" if I, being an artist, would
+condescend to paint twelve portraits of him. I had no little
+trouble to make him understand that he was mistaking me for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+a photographic camera, but I offered to paint him a small
+sketch the next morning if he would leave me alone all
+that day.</p>
+
+<p>Punctually at sunrise he entered my room. He had his best
+clothes on, and his anxiety to be painted was such that he had
+not been able to sleep all night. I painted the sketch, and
+Yoshitaro and his male and female friends joined in exclamations
+of admiration at the good result of the <i>abura è</i> (oil
+painting). He professed to be very grateful, and carefully
+packed the picture in a box, which he carried into another
+room.</p>
+
+<p>I took advantage of his absence to pack up my traps, as I
+wished to leave for Shaubets that same morning. In a short
+time Yoshitaro came back to my room, but a different man.
+He was rude, and tried to bully me. He presented a bill for
+the sum of sixteen <i>yen</i>, equivalent to £3 in English money,
+which I considered exorbitant for two nights' rest, a few bowls
+of rice, and the "European dinner." The highest charge made
+by the very best tea-houses in Hokkaido never exceeds one
+yen&mdash;two shillings and tenpence a day&mdash;including all meals.
+I quietly told the landlord that he was a thief, and that I
+would punish him by taking the picture away from him; but
+he swore that he would not surrender it, and that he would
+fight for it if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>I seldom refuse a challenge when I know that I am going
+to get the best of it, and as it so happened that my arms were
+a great deal longer than those of Yoshitaro, I caught him by
+the throat and shook him so violently that he was nearly
+strangled. His friends came to his rescue, and when I
+dropped him he fell heavily on the mats, and had to be carried
+away. Some minutes elapsed, and while I was hastily taking
+my heavier luggage out of the house I heard Yoshitaro in the
+next room call out to his wife to bring him a sword, as he
+wanted to kill the "<i>ijinsan bakka</i>"&mdash;"the fool of a foreigner."
+I entered his room. Yoshitaro, pale with rage, was sitting
+by his <i>hibachi</i>, and round him were eight or ten of his men.
+They were apparently holding a congress on what to do, and
+each one of them, as is usual on all occasions in Japan, had
+pulled out his little pipe, and was continually refilling it with
+tobacco as they all discussed the matter on hand. I had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+my boots on this time, as I wished to show the scorn I
+had for him, his friends, and his house. In my coat pocket&mdash;the
+only sound one&mdash;I had my revolver, but it was not
+loaded.</p>
+
+<p>"Yoshitaro," I said, "deliver the picture at once."</p>
+
+<p>"I will not," said he.</p>
+
+<p>"Good!" said his friends in a chorus.</p>
+
+<p>"Yoshitaro," I said again, producing the revolver and
+pointing it at him, "if I have not the picture before I count
+twenty you will be a dead man."</p>
+
+<p>I never in my life saw a crowd of bullies so scared. Covering
+their faces with their hands, Yoshitaro's friends bolted
+in all directions, some jumping out of the semi-European window,
+some dashing through the violently-opened paper <i>shojis</i>
+(sliding doors), leaving eight or ten pipes and as many
+tobacco pouches scattered on the mats. The landlord, a
+moment ago so brave, had not strength to get up, so great
+was his terror. Pale as death, and with a trembling voice,
+he called imploringly to his wife, servants, and friends to
+come and deliver up the picture.</p>
+
+<p>I had counted up to number fourteen, and no one had put
+in an appearance. Then I incidentally mentioned to Yoshitaro
+that time was nearly up, and enquired if he preferred to be
+shot through the head or the heart, at the same time cocking
+my revolver. Yoshitaro shuddered.</p>
+
+<p>At number sixteen a little girl, the only brave one of the
+lot, was sent to his help.</p>
+
+<p>"Dutchera Danna?" ("Where is it, sir?") she asked him,
+quite perplexed.</p>
+
+<p>"Hatchera, hayaku, hayaku nesan!" ("It is there; quick,
+quick, girl!") pointing to a closet in which a pile of <i>foutangs</i>
+(small mattresses) were kept rolled during the day.</p>
+
+<p>Yoshitaro had hidden the sketch so well in the closet that
+the little <i>nesan</i><a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> could not find it, and when I called out
+number nineteen the poor girl, discomfited, cried out, "Mi-imasen"
+("I do not see it!")</p>
+
+<p>Yoshitaro was more dead than alive; his lips were white,
+and he tried to articulate some words, but could not. His<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+eyes, fixed on the closet, were glazed and set. His body was
+beginning to collapse, and every moment I thought that he
+would faint.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime the <i>nesan</i> hurriedly pulled out all the
+<i>foutangs</i> and unrolled them, and the box with the sketch fell
+out just as I was about to call out number twenty. She gave
+me the box and sketch, and I told Yoshitaro that he must
+now come out with me, and, putting my revolver in my
+pocket, I pulled the man to the entrance door.</p>
+
+<p>Several villagers had collected at a respectful distance on
+the road, waiting for the report of the revolver. Yoshitaro's
+wife was the farthest of all.</p>
+
+<p>I signed to them to come nearer, and seeing that the
+revolver was no longer in my hands, they came, though very
+reluctantly. Yoshitaro was beginning to breathe again; and
+when a sufficient crowd had collected, I compelled him to
+accuse himself before them all of being a thief, and to confess
+that he was glad to have been punished. Also I made him
+promise that he would not play such tricks again on any other
+traveller.</p>
+
+<p>The Japanese are fond of a good joke, even when it is
+played off on one of themselves; and when I had seen all my
+baggage safe on my pack-saddles, I gave Yoshitaro the sixteen
+dollars he had asked me: "Two dollars," I said, "in settlement
+of my bill, and fourteen to go to your doctor for
+restoring you to good health after the fright you have had
+to-day."</p>
+
+<p>To show how shabby Yoshitaro's nature was, it is enough
+to state that out of the sum received his munificence went to
+the extent of five <i>sen</i> (2½<i>d.</i>) as a present to the girl who had
+come to save his life!</p>
+
+<p>When my ponies were ready, I showed Yoshitaro and his
+knavish friends how I had sold them. I brought out my
+revolver again, and they all saw that not a single cartridge was
+in any of its chambers. This done, I bade them good-bye, and
+left them to reflect that it is not always the quietest persons
+who can be imposed on with most impunity, but that sometimes
+such quiet persons get the best of it, even against ten
+bullies or more banded together. I have no doubt that a
+good many of my readers will think me cruel for carrying a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>
+joke so far; but, on the other hand, if placed in similar circumstances,
+when no redress from without is to be obtained, and
+one must defend oneself by main force, very few would treat
+such a serious imposition and offence as a joke.</p>
+
+<p>In going through the village more than one fisherman came
+to tell me that I had done right in dealing severely with
+Yoshitaro, as he was known to be a scoundrel and a thief, and
+they all detested him.</p>
+
+<p>There was little of interest between Otsu and Shaubets,
+with the exception of the beautiful delta formed in the low
+alluvial valley by the Otsu River and the Tokachi River, two
+large estuaries nearly two miles apart, by which the Tokachi
+River enters the sea. The Tokachi is a river of large volume
+and considerable length, and even when divided, the body of
+water carried by both outlets is so great as to make it
+necessary to cross in boats, fording on foot being quite
+impossible.</p>
+
+<p>The Urahoro River was successfully crossed, but for the
+twenty miles on to Shahubets the track was flat and sandy,
+lying mostly under high clay banks, some of which form
+picturesque headlands. The country is not mountainous in
+the proximity of the coast, but it is of a moderate elevation
+all through, and wooded with deciduous trees. The formation
+of the south-east coast from Cape Erimo to Cape Noshafu is
+in many ways unlike that of the south-west coast. The
+south-western part is more mountainous, and is further
+characterised by the absence of extensive plains. The coast-line
+is indented, and there is a striking want of broad
+beaches. Precipitous rocks are also frequent along the south-west
+coast, and thick deposits of pumice&mdash;as we have seen&mdash;are
+lying over quaternary rocks, filling up the declivities
+of mountain lands and river shores.</p>
+
+<p>In the western part the tertiaries are more tufaceous than
+on the south-east coast, and they are distinguished mainly by
+the presence of shales and andesite breccia. The south-eastern
+part is characterized by the almost entire absence of volcanic
+rocks and older eruptive rocks. After leaving the range of
+mountains forming the <i>Sparti acque</i>, east and west of Cape
+Erimo, high land is met all the way along the south-east coast.
+Nevertheless, pumice is found in the basin of the Tokachi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+River, and also in that of the Kushiro River, but it does not
+form the surface soil, covering large areas of ground, as in
+many places on the south-western portion of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The different aspect in the tertiaries of the south-east and
+south-west coast may be accounted for by the presence of
+breccia and conglomerate, shales and sandstones, on the western
+part, while on the eastern coast beds of lignite, coal of inferior
+quality, and diatom earth form the tertiary strata. If it were
+not for the total want of harbours, or even moderately sheltered
+anchorages for ships, this south-west portion of Yezo, with its
+agricultural resources, its milder climate, and the facilities that
+it offers for the construction of roads and railways, ought to
+support a large population. As things stand now, there are
+no colonists inland, and the coast is deserted and desolate-looking.
+As I have mentioned before, the only drawbacks
+are the thick fogs prevailing during the summer months along
+the south-east coast, and I believe that this in some measure
+accounts for the Japanese not wishing to settle in a part of the
+country so depressing to their spirits and so trying to their
+nerves. I have often noticed how easily affected the Mikado's
+subjects are by atmospheric and geographical conditions, and
+how, before settling to do business, they make a point of
+finding some pleasant spot where to cast anchor, thinking
+more of the amenities of physical existence than of the facilities
+for successful trade. I did not see a single house for
+twenty miles until I reached Shaubets, a village of eleven
+Ainu huts and one Japanese house. Thousands of sea-gulls
+and penguins lined the sandy shore, and I saw several large
+black sea-eagles. A pretty waterfall, gently descending from
+the high grey cliff, was decidedly ornamental to the scenery
+and useful to the wayfarer, as it afforded my ponies and myself
+a good drink of deliciously fresh water. Far off in the distance
+I could distinguish a long tongue of land. At Shaubets I was
+told that it was the peninsula on which <i>Kossuri</i>, or <i>Kushiro</i>,
+as the Japanese call it, is situated. I left Shaubets early in
+the morning, with the intention of pushing on to Kushiro,
+thirty-one miles distant. At Shiranuka, only ten miles from
+Shaubets, I changed my ponies. Shiranuka is an Ainu village,
+the inhabitants of which employ themselves in collecting and
+drying seaweed. There are also seven or eight Japanese<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>
+shanties besides the Ainu huts. At the mouth of the Tcharo-bets,
+near the latter village, coal and lignite of inferior quality
+are found; but this coalfield was not worked at the time I
+passed through Shiranuka. The remaining twenty-one miles
+were monotonous and uninteresting. The long <i>Kossuri</i> peninsula
+was before me, increasing in size as I drew nearer; and
+after having gone through the two small villages of To'tori
+and Akan-gawa, in the neighbourhood of Kossuri, I crossed
+the Kutcharo River, on a nicely-built wooden bridge, and
+found myself at Kushiro, an important Japanese settlement on
+the south-east coast. From its favourable situation Kushiro
+is likely to become one of the chief towns in Yezo, though
+unfortunately it does not possess a good harbour, and is much
+exposed to westerly winds. The largest number of the houses
+are situated on a slight elevation above the reef-harbour,
+immediately south of the river mouth. In the proximity of
+Kushiro, and just beyond the range of hills which stretches for
+about three miles from the entrance of the harbour in a
+northerly, and for about two miles in an easterly direction, is a
+lagoon, called by the Ainu "Harutori." This lagoon is nearly
+two miles long, and certainly not more than a quarter of a
+mile wide. It is divided from the sea by a very narrow strip
+of sand, through which the water of the lagoon finds its outlet.
+On the east side of the Harutori coal has been discovered,
+and it seems to be of fairly good quality; and three miles
+further, quite close to the sea-coast, coal was dug out some
+years ago, but the quality was so inferior that the works had
+to be abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>There is a considerable area of good land in the neighbourhood
+of Kushiro, and here again it is to be regretted that
+Japanese farmers do not emigrate to work it. Yezo has a very
+small population for its size, and I was surprised that emigration
+from the mainland was not carried out on a larger scale.
+Yezo is a rich country in many ways. Why do not all the
+troublesome students, the fiery <i>soshi</i> of Japan, abandon politics
+and futile rows and go and do men's work in that northern
+region of the empire? They would profit by it, and so would
+their country. An immense loss occurs every year simply
+because no one is there to take the profit; and it is a great
+pity, and almost a shame, to see so much waste and neglect in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+a region which, after all, is not difficult of access from the main
+island of Nippon. To the mineral products of the Kushiro
+district must be added the exports of fish (salmon and
+herrings), fish manure, and seaweed, which could be greatly
+increased if more practical processes were used.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Kushiro itself is not picturesque. There are, I
+dare say, as many as five hundred houses, some built in
+Japanese, some in semi-foreign style. The streets are very
+wide, and along the main street rails have been laid to carry
+coal trucks from the Harutori mine down to the shipping
+point. Thus the town has a civilised appearance, which was
+artistically ugly enough, but refreshing to my eyes after my
+experiences along the south-west and south-east coasts. There
+are Ainu huts along the river banks, on the high lands, and on
+the strip of sand between Lake Harutori and the sea. Unfortunately,
+most of the Ainu here, being in the employ of the
+Japanese, have adopted Japanese clothes, customs, manners, and
+language. Nearly all the younger folks are half-castes. A select
+few have even gone so far as to forget their strongest national
+characteristic of dirt; and, to my great amazement, one day
+I saw an Ainu half-caste actually taking a hot bath. It may
+amuse the reader to learn of what this Japanese bathing accommodation
+generally consists. It is one of the features in
+nearly all fishing stations in Yezo, and it is worth describing.</p>
+
+<p>When the day's work is over, one or more of the iron fish-kettles
+or caldrons used for extracting the oil from herrings
+are filled with water. These caldrons rest each on a cylindrical
+base of stones and clay, thus allowing a big fire of wood
+to be lighted under them. When the water has reached a
+high temperature, the bather either provides himself with an
+old pair of straw sandals (<i>waraji</i>), and steps in, or, placing a
+small board on the water, places his foot on it, and forces it
+down to the bottom of the caldron by his own weight. He
+thus avoids scalding his feet, which otherwise he would do
+severely. I have often seen two or three men (Japanese)
+placidly sitting up to their necks in the steaming water of the
+same caldron, with a huge fire burning under it; and several
+times I have been <i>warmly</i> invited by the bathers to join them,
+which <i>very warm</i> invitation, however, I invariably <i>coolly</i> considered
+and declined with thanks.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+As regards the Ainu, they are not fond of bathing or washing,
+and they share the Chinese idea that it is only dirty
+people who need continual washing. They do not regard
+themselves as dirty, and therefore dispense with such an
+"uncleanly habit."</p>
+
+<p>"You white people must be very dirty," once said an Ainu
+to me, as I was taking a plunge into a limpid river, "as you
+tell me that you bathe in the river every day."</p>
+
+<p>"And what about yourself?" I asked him.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, Nishpa," he replied with an air of contempt, "I am
+very clean, and have never needed washing!"</p>
+
+<p>If Kushiro is not interesting to an artist, it is decidedly so
+from an archæological point of view. Numerous pits, forts, and
+camps, flint implements, and fragments of pottery, are found in
+the immediate neighbourhood of the town, both on the range of
+hills and along the west shore of Lake Harutori. The pits are
+found in such numbers as to lead one to believe that the old
+"Kossuri" of the Ainu was once the capital of a race of pit-dwellers
+previous to the conquest of the whole of Yezo by the
+hairy race. The Ainu gave these people the name of <i>Koro-pok-kuru</i>&mdash;men
+of the holes. A few words on them may not
+be out of place, though, unfortunately, little is to be learned
+from the Ainu as to who their predecessors were, and it is
+merely by a close examination of their pits, and relics found in
+different parts of Yezo and the Kuriles, that we can to a
+certain extent trace the existence of such a race of people, and
+also prove that they were in no way connected with the
+present Ainu.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 99px;">
+<img src="images/illus-077.png" width="99" height="218" alt="AINU HOOK FOR SMOKING BEAR-MEAT" />
+<span class="caption">AINU HOOK FOR SMOKING BEAR-MEAT.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-078.jpg" width="362" height="226" alt="KORO-POK-KURU FORT" />
+<span class="caption">KORO-POK-KURU FORT.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br />
+<span class="small">The Koro-pok-kuru, or Pit-dwellers.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>All over Yezo and the Kurile Islands remains of an extinct
+race of pit-dwellers are to be seen. It is especially near lakes
+and swamps or along the coast that rectangular, circular, and
+elliptical pits are numerous, but square pits are not so common.
+None of these pits have yet been discovered on the main island
+of Nippon, but many are still to be found as far south as
+Hakodate, in Yezo. On the east and north-east side of the
+peak, at the latter port, these pits, flint implements, and rude
+pottery, mostly in fragments, are met with in great abundance.
+The implements consist mostly of arrow-heads, stone adzes,
+<span class="figcenter" style="width: 297px;">
+<img src="images/illus-078.png" width="297" height="119" alt="FLINT ARROW-HEADS" />
+<span class="caption">FLINT ARROW-HEADS.</span></span>
+hammers, flint knives, and round pebbles, which were used as
+war ammunition. The arrow-heads vary in size, length, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+breadth. The larger ones I saw measured an inch and three-quarters
+in length by an inch and five-eighths in breadth,
+while the smaller were seven-eighths of an inch by half
+an inch. They were triangular, with the angle at the
+point sometimes more, sometimes less acute, or lozenge-shaped;
+they are chipped, and not ground. Most of the
+arrow-heads and a good many of the knives were made of a
+dark reddish siliceous rock. The adzes also, of course, varied
+in size and shape, some being oblong in section, others almost
+rectangular, while others again were oval. They were ground,
+and always made so that the hand could have a good grip on
+them. The average length from the sharp edge to the other
+end would be about four inches, and the sides were rounded.
+It is apparent that most of these adzes were not originally
+fastened to a stick or club, but were held in the hand. They
+usually have a smooth surface, while the knives, as well as the
+arrow-points, exhibit marks of chipping quite plainly; their
+edges are very sharp. Hard stones are often found on which
+the people of the Stone Age used to grind their implements.
+The knives are mostly rectangular, with very sharp edges,
+sometimes on both sides. Then there are some in the shape
+of a sword-blade, rounded at the top, and with a rounded place
+at the other end, where they were held. Those with two sharp
+edges were triangular in shape, and were held by the upper
+part of the triangle, which point ends with a kind of knob.
+<span class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-079.png" width="300" height="140" alt="FLINT KNIVES" />
+<span class="caption">FLINT KNIVES.</span></span>
+It is a curious fact that bone and bamboo arrow-points&mdash;probably
+Ainu&mdash;are sometimes found in pits, and this would
+lead me to believe, either that the conquering Ainu used
+these weapons in their attacks upon the pit-dwellers, or,
+supposing for a moment that the Ainu themselves were the
+pit-dwellers in former days, that they had abandoned their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+stone implements and had adopted bone and wood, which
+they found easier to work. I am inclined to the first supposition
+as the correct one. The pits are numerous in Yezo,
+and, following the southern coast from south-west to north-east,
+we find that they increase in number towards the north.
+Though stone implements and fragments of pottery are
+numerous nearly all along the southern coast, but few pits are
+found either on Volcano Bay or on the south-west part of the
+coast as far as Erimo Cape. As we pass this cape and go
+north, on the south-east coast the pits become more numerous,
+and at Kushiro&mdash;or Kossuri, as the Ainu call it&mdash;they are found
+in great quantities. Further on are some at Akkeshi, and
+they are plentiful nearly all along that stretch of the coast as
+far as Nemuro, and on Bentenjima, the small island which
+forms one side of the harbour at that place. North-east of
+that, in the Kuriles, at Kunashiri and Etorofu, we have
+abundant evidence that a large population of these pit-dwellers
+once existed there. In Etorofu particularly the pits, besides
+being frequent, are in much better preservation than any on
+the island of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>The pit-dwellers do not seem to have been particular as to
+the shape of their dwellings, though they evidently had a
+certain predilection for the elliptical and rectangular forms.
+The pits at Kushiro are nearly all rectangular, while those
+from Akkeshi to Nemuro are either rectangular or circular.</p>
+
+<p>The average dimensions of rectangular pits are about twelve
+feet by nine feet, but I have seen some as large as sixteen feet
+by twelve feet. The sides slope inwards, and the average
+depth is from three to six feet. Pits which are situated on
+cliffs, or at any height, are generally deeper, probably for the
+extra shelter required by those living at an altitude, compared
+with those living on the sea-level. The round pits are from
+ten to fourteen feet in diameter, and the elliptical have a
+length of about sixteen feet, and are about eight feet at the
+widest part of the ellipse. The pits which I found on the
+north-east coast of Yezo, from Shari to Cape Soya, were not so
+numerous as those on the southern coast; but some of them
+were larger in size, as probably, owing to the greater severity
+of the climate, more people lived in the same hut for the
+purpose of creating natural heat. At Tobuts, on the Saruma<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+Lake, are three of elliptical shape. Near Abashiri several
+well-preserved specimens of pottery have been found, especially
+in the mud of swamps or lakes; but after leaving Lake
+Saruma, I did not see any traces of the pit-dwellers till I
+approached Soya Cape. When these pits are excavated, a
+stratum of sand is generally found, and beneath it a large
+quantity of charcoal in the centre of the pit. Under the
+charcoal the earth is burnt, showing that the hearth was in the
+centre of the dwelling, as it is now in the Ainu huts. This
+goes to prove that there was one fire, and not, as some
+travellers have endeavoured to show, five or six burning at
+the same time, round which, or, rather, between which, the
+pit-dwellers slept. I have often dug in different parts of pits,
+and have invariably come upon this burnt charcoal in or near
+the middle. I never saw any signs of more than one fire in
+the same pit. Digging in a large pit at Kushiro, I found some
+stag-horns, and numerous bits of black and red pottery. Some
+of the fragments had rough line ornamentations on them.
+There was also a large quantity of war ammunition, in the
+shape of big pebbles and round stones. Most pits contain
+heaps of rubbish and bones of animals. Sometimes there are
+heaps of oyster shells, as near the pits on Saruma Lake; and
+these shell-heaps are similar to those found on the main island
+of Nippon. In another pit on one of the forts at Kushiro
+I found what I thought was part of a human skull; but
+on a closer examination it turned out to be the skull of an
+animal&mdash;probably a fox or a stag. A bone arrow-point also
+came to light in the same pit, and several stone defensive
+weapons. It was interesting to note that this pit was built on
+the top of a small conical hill, and that the hill itself was
+surrounded by a ditch only a few feet wide, thus forming a
+kind of fort. On the side and at the bottom of the fort I saw
+numbers of stones, which had in all probability been used by
+the pit-dwellers as missiles against the attacking Ainu during
+a battle. Besides forts, the pit-dwellers had camps, generally
+situated in a commanding position above a river, a
+lake, or a harbour. Single pits also are found only under
+similar conditions.</p>
+
+<p>Near Kushiro, on the Lake Harutori, which is divided from
+the sea by a sand isthmus, are several camps and one or two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+forts, the first of which overlooks the sea. Along the
+Kutcharo River are forts and camps. These camps are on the
+crowns of the hills, and each is surrounded by a small ditch.
+In the last, about three miles from the coast, were several
+square pits, larger than those on the other three forts. This
+last fort stands some distance back from the river, and is
+situated in a little plain at the summit of a detached mound,
+which has the appearance of having been artificially cut from
+the larger remaining portion of the hill itself. The shape of
+the fort is a broken cone, and the base measures about nine
+hundred feet in circumference, while the upper one is about
+three hundred. From the top, where there is only a small
+pit, the entrance of the river can easily be watched; and it
+must have been almost impregnable, as the walls of the fort, or,
+rather, the sides of the conical hill, rise nearly perpendicularly
+from the plain. A small stream runs at the foot of the fort.</p>
+
+<p>On the Lake Harutori the range of hills which stretches
+from the sea for three or four miles along its eastern shores is
+literally covered with these pits, and on the sandy isthmus
+separating the sea from the lake some very large pits can be
+observed. The fort near the sea is called <i>Shirito</i> by the
+Ainu, and that at the other end of the range goes by the
+name of <i>Moshiriya</i>. It was in the latter fort that the well-shaped
+bone arrow-point was found, as well as one or two
+stone adzes, which were so shaped as to fit the hand, and
+evidently had been used as hammers, or weapons of offence at
+close quarters. In the same fort I found two stags' horns in
+good preservation, and many bones of different animals. It
+is doubtful whether these heaps of horns and bones were
+brought into the pits for the purpose of making arrow-points
+and other weapons, or whether the stags had been used merely
+for food. The bone arrow-point found in the same pit was
+not in such a decayed condition as most of the bones I found
+there, which led me to believe that it was not made out of the
+same kind of bone, or that the bone out of which it was made
+had been cured before its conversion into an arrow-point. I
+believe that in the neighbourhood of Kusuri&mdash;or Kushiro, as it
+is now called by the Japanese&mdash;there are as many as a thousand
+or fifteen hundred pits. In Etorofu, at Bet-to-bu, on the
+north-west coast of the island, nearly as many are to be found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+along the seashore, mostly on the plain at the top of the cliffs
+overlooking the sea, while the rest are situated on the banks
+of a narrow stream and along what appears to have been a
+river course. On the same island, at Ru-pets, are several pits
+of a similar description, and a fort.</p>
+
+<p>As the pit-dwellers have disappeared from Yezo and the
+Kuriles, and only pre-historic remains and relics have been
+left behind to indicate their former existence, the questions
+naturally arise: Who were these pit-dwellers? Whence did
+they come? and whither have they gone? We can place no
+reliance on the accounts given by the Ainu or by the highly
+imaginative Japanese, who, moreover, are perfectly ignorant on
+this subject. Some Ainu say that Yezo was formerly peopled
+by a race of dwarfs, who were their enemies, and were extirpated
+by them after many sanguinary battles. The Ainu are
+very vague as to when and where these battles were fought, but
+according to their accounts these pit-dwellers, whom they call
+the <i>Koro-pok-kuru</i>&mdash;literally "men of holes"&mdash;once inhabited
+Yezo and the Kuriles. They were only three or four feet in
+height, and some semi-Ainu stories represent them as being
+only a few inches tall. This of course might be taken to mean
+that they were very small by comparison. A few Ainu, yet
+more imaginative than others, go so far as to say gravely that
+the Koro-pok-kuru were so tiny that when a shower of rain
+came they hid under burdock leaves for shelter. Others,
+however, tell us that these Koro-pok-kuru were their ancestors,
+and much more hairy than the Ainu of the present day. They
+were strong, fond of hunting, and able to cross the mountains
+with great facility and speed. According to Mr. Batchelor,
+some Ainu state that they themselves formerly lived in huts
+over pits, and that they changed their method of house-building
+on coming in contact with the Japanese; but if this
+were the case it seems unaccountable that they should distinguish
+their predecessors as pit-dwellers. Moreover, if the
+influence of the Japanese was sufficiently strong to cause them
+to make this most important change in their habitations and
+mode of living, how comes it that in other matters they have
+not adopted Japanese customs? I was unable to trace the
+slightest resemblance between Ainu huts and Japanese edifices
+of any kind, either in their general appearance or in any of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>
+the smaller details, and I was always struck by the small
+extent to which the Ainu have adopted the customs of the
+dominant race. Indeed, the character of Ainu buildings is
+peculiar to the Ainu themselves, and, far from constructing
+their dwellings over pits, they go to the other extreme, and
+perch their storehouses on piles or posts. It is a remarkable
+coincidence that on the Lake Kutcharo, not many miles from
+Kusuri, where the Koro-pok-kuru pits are numerous, the roofs
+of the Ainu huts and storehouses are not angular, but circular,
+which gives them the appearance of half a cylinder resting on
+the ground. This struck me as being in all probability the
+shape of structures built over rectangular pits, while the
+coverings of round pits must have been shaped like half a
+sphere, similar to the snow houses of the Esquimaux, and the
+elliptical like the longer half of an egg.</p>
+
+<p>The present houses of the Kutcharo Lake Ainu, however,
+are not built on pits; and on my questioning the few inhabitants
+of the village, all were perfectly ignorant of the existence
+of the Koro-pok-kuru, and they knew nothing of their own
+ancestors, nor whether they had built structures over pits or
+not. The idea seemed to them highly ludicrous, and afforded
+them a great deal of amusement.</p>
+
+<p>On the north-east coast of Yezo, where pits are found, some
+Ainu huts have round and others angular roofs; but even in
+the latter instance, the angle of the two sides of the roof is not
+as acute as with the huts on the Saru and the Tokachi River;
+but both slant in a more gentle way, forming an obtuse angle
+of about 135°. In fact, these variations in the Ainu architecture
+have not yet been accounted for, and whether they
+copied their roofs from their foes the Koro-pok-kuru, or
+whether it is a mere chance that the roofs bear a certain
+resemblance, cannot be discovered from tradition or hearsay.
+I may mention incidentally my own theory, which may afford
+an explanation of this point. As the Saru, the Tokachi,
+and the Ishikari districts have no very severe weather in
+winter, and only a comparatively small quantity of snow falls
+during the colder months, the Ainu build huts with very
+slanting roofs, so that the snow should not remain on them
+in winter, while during the summer months the rain should
+fall off the steep incline of the roof before it could filter<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+through into the hut. On the Kutcharo Lake and on the
+north-east coast, where strong winds are prevalent, the huts
+have round roofs, so as to offer the least possible resistance to
+the gales, and thus escape the danger of being blown down.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the snow, the opposite of the Saru Ainu
+method is practised. Instead of preventing the snow from
+resting on their roofs, the Ainu of the colder regions do all they
+can to let it remain, for by thus forming an air-tight vault it
+renders the hut much warmer in winter. In other words, the
+system is the same as that adopted by the Esquimaux, with
+the exception that the latter, I believe, have no frame to their
+huts, and the vault is entirely of snow and ice; while with the
+Ainu of the north-east coast the snow vault is directly over the
+hut itself. I invariably noticed on the north-east coast, where
+the Ainu have a mixed architecture, that wherever a hut was
+built in an exposed position it had a round roof, while those
+built under the shelter of a cliff or a hill had angular ones, and
+this is what led me to the above conclusion.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the Koro-pok-kuru, they undoubtedly must
+have had semi-spherical and semi-cylindrical roofs over their
+pits, whether the vault was constructed of mud, sticks, and
+reeds, or simply of snow and ice, like the Esquimaux dwellings.
+For all that we know, the Koro-pok-kuru huts may have had
+conical roofs, like those of the present American Indians; but
+one fact is certain, that whatever shape the roof may have had,
+it was not supported by a central pole, for the hearth is invariably
+in the centre of the pit.</p>
+
+<p>The curious fact already mentioned, that in every pit we
+find a thick layer of sand, seems to prove that it was certainly
+intended to render the ground less damp; and it is my own
+impression that these pit-dwellers, having snow or ice vaults
+over their heads, resorted to that expedient to keep the floor
+of their huts dry under the continuous dripping of the vault,
+melted by the heat of the fire inside. Undoubtedly Yezo was
+a much colder country in bygone years than it is now; and
+though we cannot implicitly rely on the information given by
+the Ainu, they are all of one opinion in believing that their
+country was all ice and snow in former days, and to give a
+proof of it they say: "Why should we be as hairy as a bear if
+not to keep the cold out?"</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+The Japanese know the pit-dwellers by the name of "Ko-bito,"
+or "Ko-shto," the latter word meaning "men of the
+lakes,"<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> but they know nothing of their history.</p>
+
+<p>One fact still remains to be explained, namely, who made
+the pottery that is disinterred in almost every pit and by the
+shores of lakes. The present Ainu do not know how to make
+pottery, and they have never been known to manufacture anything
+of the kind. All Ainu implements are made of wood,
+though of course the more civilised tribes have now purchased
+iron or porcelain implements from the Japanese. The question,
+then, is, supposing that the Ainu were formerly the pit-dwellers,
+have they lost the art of making pottery, or did the
+pottery belong to a different race of people?</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-086.png" width="400" height="184" alt="KORO-POK-KURU POTTERY AND FRAGMENTS OF DESIGNS" />
+<span class="caption">KORO-POK-KURU POTTERY AND FRAGMENTS OF DESIGNS.</span></div>
+
+<p>It seemed singular to me that, conservative as the Ainu are
+of their relics, even allowing for its brittle nature, no pottery of
+the kind found in pits is ever to be seen in any Ainu hut.
+Had they made the pottery themselves, surely some specimens
+or parts of specimens would have been preserved.</p>
+
+<p>Comparing facts, we find, then, that the Koro-pok-kuru built
+their huts over pits, made pottery, and used stone and flint
+implements; while the Ainu have never been known to dwell
+in pits, have never made pottery, and have always used bone
+or bamboo implements. Moreover, Ainu traditions of internecine
+wars, vague as they are, and their designating the
+enemy by the name of Koro-pok-kuru, are further proofs that
+the Ainu themselves do not regard the pit-dwellers as their
+forefathers. As, then, the few facts collected tend to prove that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+the Ainu and the Koro-pok-kuru were two distinct races,
+it would be interesting to know who the latter really were, and
+what became of them. A learned missionary, Mr. Batchelor,
+writing on this subject, says:&mdash;"But I am of opinion that
+these pit-dwellers were closely allied to the Ainu in descent,
+and that the remains of them may now be seen in Shikotan
+and other islands of the Kurile Group. The inhabitants of
+Shikotan are much shorter in stature than the Ainu of Yezo.
+They are not so good-looking, and are said to be a very
+improvident race. The Ainu look upon the Kurile Islanders
+as the remnants of the Koro-pok-gurus; but this is a mere
+opinion, to be adopted or rejected at pleasure. That they
+are pit-dwellers <i>is quite certain</i>, for <i>they live in pits</i> at the
+present day."</p>
+
+<p>Before being so certain as to what he was stating, it would
+have been well had the writer of the above lines visited the
+island in question. He would not then have committed so
+many blunders in so few lines. The inhabitants of Shikotan
+are <i>not</i> shorter than the Ainu of Yezo, and I cannot give
+a better proof of this than by asking my readers to compare
+the measurements which I took while there with the measurements
+of the Yezo Ainu. The medium height of the
+Shikotan Ainu is between sixty-one inches and sixty-two
+and three-quarter inches; the medium height of the Yezo
+Ainu is between sixty-one inches and sixty-two and three-quarters,
+or exactly the same. The chest inflated measures
+thirty-seven and a half inches with the Shikotan Ainu, and
+thirty-seven and a half with the Yezo Ainu, while the spinal
+column is only twenty-four inches with the Shikotan Ainu,
+and about twenty-six and three-quarters with the Yezo Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>The Shikotan Ainu have the same structural peculiarity as
+the Yezo Ainu, namely, the length of their arms, which
+peculiarity, by the way, is greatly accentuated with them.
+The humerus is much longer than with the Yezo Ainu, while
+the ulna and radius are shorter; the hand is the same length.
+A Shikotan Ainu with outstretched arms is generally the
+length of one hand longer than his own height, which is more
+than is usually found with the Yezo Ainu. The medium foot
+is nine and a half inches with both Ainu. In the Ainu the
+tibia is rather flattened at its angular part, but the Shikotan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+Ainu have a nearly circular tibia. I do not know of any other
+existing race in the world in which such an extraordinary
+phenomenon occurs, and the tibia struck me also as being
+extremely long, while the femur appeared proportionately
+short. However, with the exception that the tibia is more
+circular than with the Ainu of Yezo, I could not see any
+material difference between them and the other Ainu. As we
+have already seen, each tribe in Yezo has certain characteristics
+which other tribes have not; each tribe has conformed its
+habits to the climate of the district in which it lives, as well as
+to other circumstances; and each of these tribes has adopted a
+slightly different architecture for its dwellings; but it is plain
+that all belong to the same original race. The same might be
+said of the Shikotan Ainu. At this point it is well to explain
+that the Kurile Islands not many years ago belonged to
+Russia; but they were exchanged for the southern half of
+Sakhalin, then belonging to Japan, and now form part of the
+Japanese Empire. The two larger islands&mdash;Kunashiri and
+Etorofu&mdash;are inhabited mainly by Ainu and a few Japanese,
+who migrate there from Yezo during the fishing season; while
+the Island of Shikotan is inhabited by sixty Ainu, brought
+there from the northern islands of Shirajima or Shimushir, and
+Urup, leaving thus all the islands north-east of Etorofu
+uninhabited.</p>
+
+<p>Of Kunashiri and Etorofu I shall say no more in connection
+with the pit-dwellers, but a few more words on the Shikotan
+inhabitants may prove interesting, especially as people have
+been led to believe that they are the descendants of the Koro-pok-kuru,
+and not really Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>I shall begin by saying that the Shikotan people call themselves
+Kurilsky <i>Ainu</i>, and that they speak both Ainu and
+Russian. Their features are not very massive, and their cheek
+and temple bones slightly project. They have strong mouths,
+and eyes identical in shape and colour with those of the Yezo
+Ainu. They are as hairy; they live by fishing and hunting;
+they clothe themselves in skins; and they are fond of beads
+and shining ornaments. Their huts have angular roofs, and
+are built in the same style as those of the Yezo Ainu, but on a
+smaller scale. The interiors are also alike, and equally dirty,
+if not more so. The Ainu huts at Shikotan are sixteen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>
+in number, and <i>not one</i> of them is built over a pit, thus showing
+that Mr. Batchelor was a little rash, when, relying on mistaken
+information, he drew a conclusion which is not in accordance
+with the facts. One thing that has misled most people as
+regards these Kurilsky Ainu is, that they were compelled to
+cut their hair and shave their beards. To the superficial
+observer this naturally gives them a different physiognomy
+from that of the Yezo Ainu, who let their hair grow long, and
+have flowing beards. Prof. Milne, who some years ago visited
+the Island of Shumshu,<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> relates that he saw there a small group
+of Kurilsky Ainu, who, all included, numbered twenty-two.
+Their dress, although made of skins, was European in form,
+and the upper garment, shaped like a shirt, was made of bird-skins
+(puffins) with the feathers inside. The back was ornamented
+with the plumes of the yellow puffin, and the edge
+was trimmed with seal-fur. The men wore garments tied at
+the waist with a belt of sea-lion hide. Their feet and legs up
+to the knee were covered with moccasins, also made of sea-lion
+skin, and their food consisted of a few berries, the eggs
+and flesh of sea-birds, seals, and other meat. They were few
+and migratory, and carried with them all their property when
+migrating. Prof. Milne, in a paper contributed to the Asiatic
+Society of Japan, thinks that the chief point in connection with
+these people is, that they constructed houses by making
+shallow excavations in the ground, which were then roofed
+over with turf, and that these excavations had a striking
+resemblance to the pits now found further south. I believe,
+however, that Prof. Milne never saw them excavating
+these pits, and the fact that hardly two dozen people in the
+extreme north-east Kuriles having temporarily adopted shallow
+excavations which they roofed over, is barely sufficient proof
+that they were pit-dwellers, and, as will be seen later, I had
+ample evidence afterwards that they were not. It is probable
+that this wandering band, owing to the scarcity or difficulty of
+procuring timber in those regions&mdash;the smallness of their
+canoes not permitting them to transport the materials for
+above-ground structures from one island to another&mdash;it is
+probable, I say, that, having come upon pits already dug, they
+had roofed them over and lived in them, finding them suitable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+to the severe climate. When I visited Shikotan (September,
+1890), where not only these Shimushir people, but all the
+Kurilsky Ainu, numbering sixty, are now collected, and where
+they have built dwellings in their own style, the architecture
+and mode of construction were identical with those of the Yezo
+Ainu, and there were <i>no</i> pits whatever to their huts.</p>
+
+<p>Had they been pit-dwellers, why should they have so
+suddenly modified their habits as to construct huts wholly
+above-ground without any reason for so doing? Supposing
+they were actually pit-dwellers, and had lived generation
+after generation in pits, why should they abandon this chief
+structural characteristic in a place where the climate is as
+severe as in the islands they formerly inhabited? I am willing
+to admit that the Kurilsky Ainu, like all barbarians, made the
+best of what they found in their migrations from one island to
+another, and that, having found pits already dug, they had
+lived in them simply for convenience, and to protect themselves
+from the cold. The impossibility of constructing their own
+style of dwellings, which would have required too much time
+and a great amount of timber and reeds&mdash;two articles scarce in
+the north-east Kuriles&mdash;may account for their being driven to
+occupy pits already dug; but I am certainly not inclined to
+admit that therefore the few remaining Kurilsky Ainu are in
+any way connected with or related to the Koro-pok-kuru. I
+believe that I have given sufficient evidence to prove this. At
+any rate, I have given such evidence as it was in my power to
+collect, and I have based my statements on what I actually
+saw, and not on what I heard people say. As others have
+speculated on this subject, I shall now ask the forgiveness of
+the reader if I am also dragged into a little pre-historic speculation
+as to who the Koro-pok-kuru were, and whence they
+came.</p>
+
+<p>As I remarked at the beginning of this chapter, we find
+that pits are more numerous as we go in a north-east direction.
+Thus, few are found at Hakodate; and though none or few
+have been found along the south-west coast of Yezo, still, flint
+arrow-heads, pottery, and stone adzes collected here and there,
+show us that the Koro-pok-kuru had travelled along that
+coast, probably journeying in their canoes, landing to hunt, or
+to fight the Ainu.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+Along the south-east coast the pits increase in number as
+we approach Kusuri, and at this place the largest number of
+pits in Hokkaido is found; then they are numerous all along
+the coast as far as Nemuro; and in the islands of Kunashiri
+and Etorofu the population must have been large, as there
+are numerous pits throughout. Pits are found in the smaller
+islands of the Kurile group, and I believe also in Kamschatka.
+From Nemuro, following the coast-line of Yezo, we find some
+along the north-east coast of Yezo, and none down the west
+coast until we reach the narrower part of the island near
+Sappro. This said, we have two points to consider:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(1.) That the pit-dwellers moved from north-east to south-west.</p>
+
+<p>(2.) That the main bulk of the population settled in Etorofu,
+Kunashiri, and at Kushiro. Few went further south to settle.</p>
+
+<p>All evidence tends to show that they came either from
+Kamschatka, or perhaps more probably from the Aleutian
+Islands. It seems not improbable, looking at the volcanic
+formation of the Kurile group, that in bygone days Yezo was
+joined to Kamschatka, affording a land passage to the migratory
+people; but this we need not take into consideration.</p>
+
+<p>From what one can gather of this race, the habits and
+customs of the Koro-pok-kuru must have had many points in
+common with the present Esquimaux. Very likely their pits
+were roofed over with a snow vault. They evidently lived by
+fishing and hunting, like the Esquimaux, and all that we know
+identifies them more with the latter race than with the Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>I believe that the present Aleuts have a striking resemblance
+to the Esquimaux; and if this were the case, there is no reason
+why we should not suppose that they in former days inhabited
+the Kuriles, part of Kamschatka and the north-east portion of
+Yezo. It is a well-known fact that the Esquimaux formerly
+lived in corresponding latitudes on the east coast of America,
+and that they withdrew little by little to the more inhospitable
+regions of the north, and the same might have occurred here
+after the Ainu invasion of Yezo. The Koro-pok-kuru were
+apparently more civilised than their conquerors the Ainu, for
+they made pottery and worked stone; but owing to their
+retiring nature and weaker physique, and outnumbered by the
+savage hairy people, they became extinct. As to the Ainu,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+they also are undoubtedly a race of the north. Their music,
+their decorations, their habits, display characteristics of
+northern origin; but the Ainu, as we have seen from their
+structures and customs, were by no means accustomed to so
+cold a climate as their predecessors the pit-dwellers. In my
+opinion they did not invade Yezo from the Kuriles, but came
+from the continent of Asia, probably across Siberia, and
+descended as far as Sakhalin Island, where many Ainu are
+still to be found. As the Koro-pok-kuru resemble the
+Esquimaux, the Ainu have a striking resemblance in many
+ways to the Northmen of Europe, and this is what makes me
+suppose that they came across the northern part of the
+continent, and not from the northern islands of the Pacific.
+They made their way south, probably crossing over the La
+Perouse Strait, and the main contingent of them came down
+the north-east coast of Yezo. I base this theory on the fact
+that the strong current which passes through the La Perouse
+Strait from west to east would have made it impossible for the
+Ainu in their light "dug-outs" to navigate against it, or straight
+across from Sakhalin to Soya Cape, and in crossing they were
+undoubtedly drifted far south-east on the north-east coast,
+probably landing near Abashiri or Shari. Another evidence
+which made me think that the Ainu came from Sakhalin is,
+that all knew of another island besides Yezo, which they
+called Krafto, by which name they designate Sakhalin. Of
+the Kuriles no one knew except those in the immediate
+neighbourhood. At one time the Ainu are said to have
+inhabited the whole of Japan as far south as Satsuma.
+Archæologists are puzzled by the discovery in the main island
+of Nippon of various kitchen-middens, which include fragments
+of pottery identical with those attributed to the Koro-pok-kuru,
+and also of shell heaps, which some consider of Ainu
+origin, others as pre-Ainu. No pits, however, have been
+found near these shell heaps, nor on any part of Nippon.
+Thus another question is raised as to who the originators of
+these shell heaps and kitchen-middens were. Is it not likely
+that, as the Ainu proceeded south, they encountered the
+Koro-pok-kuru at Nemuro and then at Kushiro, and, having
+easily defeated them, forced some of them to retreat in the
+direction of the Kuriles, while the rest went towards the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+south? They probably fled along the coastline in their "dug-outs,"
+those who moved south occasionally landing to hunt
+or to attack their pursuers. Thus we can account for the
+occurrence along that coast of some of their implements, but
+of no pits, which they were not likely to dig in such circumstances.
+Having then retreated as far south as Ushongosh
+(Hakodate), and with the conquering Ainu still at their heels,
+there was nothing more natural than that they should cross
+the Tsugaru Strait,<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> only a few miles in width, carrying with
+them their kitchen-middens and pottery.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu crossed after them, and, pushing the retreating
+Koro-pok-kuru further and further south, exterminated them,
+and became the masters of the whole of Japan, the Kuriles,
+and Sakhalin. As they were thus pursued by the Ainu, whom
+they knew as a warlike people, and stronger than themselves,
+there seems to me no cause for wonder that the Koro-pok-kuru
+did not dig any pits while on the main island of Nippon,
+first, because these pits would have been the sure means of
+bringing the Ainu on their track, to their certain annihilation;
+next, because the climate, being a great deal warmer, they had
+no need for them. On the other hand, it is more than
+probable that the retreaters carried with them their kitchen-middens
+and pottery, which constituted their treasures, and
+without which they could not have prepared their food. The
+barbarous Ainu then came in contact with the Japanese, at
+whose hands they received the same treatment as that which
+they had inflicted on the Koro-pok-kuru. Little by little the
+land so easily conquered was lost again, and the conquering
+Ainu were ere long in retreat towards the north. They were
+beaten and defeated by the more civilised Japanese, and the
+few who survived had to cross over the Tsugaru Strait back to
+Yezo. There is not a single Ainu now to be found in Nippon,
+with the exception of a child, a half-caste, whose mother was
+an Ainu, and who lives about sixty miles south of Awomori.
+The mother of this child was the last of her race who was born
+on and who inhabited the main island of Nippon.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu blood can be traced in many of the Japanese in the
+northern part of Nippon, especially between Shiranoka to Awomori,
+and also some corrupted Ainu words are still in use in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+the dialect spoken in that part of Japan. Names of places,
+rivers, towns, etc., of Ainu origin, are common all over Japan.
+It was this former occupation of Japan by the Ainu that
+for some time led people to believe that the Ainu were the
+forefathers of the Japanese; and when pits were found in Yezo,
+the same hastily-judging people attributed them to the Ainu;
+and then, when mention was made of the Koro-pok-kuru and
+the Ko-shto, they affixed this name to the Kurilsky Ainu
+whom they had never seen nor studied.</p>
+
+<p>I am not prepared to say whether or not traces of these
+Koro-pok-kuru are to be found in the Aleutian Islands, as
+I have not visited them; but it would prove interesting to
+trace a connection between them and some existing race, in
+case my supposition be not correct, though I am sure that it is
+nearer the mark than any of the conjectures made by others
+with regard either to the Ainu or the Koro-pok-kuru. At any
+rate, as I do not pretend to infallibility; should my supposition
+be wrong, the facts given above will remain, and a more
+successful student and investigator will be able to work on
+them with a decided advantage over the writer, who had
+to start from the very beginning, and work on information
+which was more of an obstacle than a help.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-094.png" width="400" height="112" alt="STONE ADZES AND HAMMERS" />
+<span class="caption">STONE ADZES AND HAMMERS.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 358px;">
+<img src="images/illus-095.jpg" width="358" height="139" alt="AINU HUTS AND STOREHOUSES ON KUTCHARO LAKE" />
+<span class="caption">AINU HUTS AND STOREHOUSES ON KUTCHARO LAKE.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER X.<br />
+<span class="small">The Kutcharo River and Lake&mdash;A Sulphur Mine&mdash;Akkeshi and its Bay.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Kutcharo River is of some importance, for though not of
+great length, it is navigable by small boats for nearly twenty
+miles from its mouth.</p>
+
+<p>I left Kushiro one morning, and made my way up the river,
+not by boat but along its banks on horseback, so as to get a
+better idea of the surrounding country and its inhabitants. At
+Kushiro I left more than half my luggage, to be sent down to
+Hakodate by the first ship that happened to call, and this
+greatly changed my mode of travelling. Instead of two ponies,
+one pony would now be quite sufficient to carry my baggage
+and myself; and where ponies were not obtainable, I could
+carry all my paraphernalia on my own back with no very
+great difficulty, and in this way I should not be hindered on
+my journey.</p>
+
+<p>I daresay the baggage I was carrying now weighed about
+forty-five pounds. It mostly consisted of painting materials,
+and wooden panels, on which I usually paint my sketches when
+travelling.</p>
+
+<p>As to clothes and boots, I was beginning to be rather "hard
+up." No weaver's work, no tailor's garments, nor tanner's
+hides, can stand the wear and tear of such rough travelling as
+I had had, and the old saying, that a "light heart and a thin
+pair of breeches carry you a long way," is most decidedly not
+to be applied to anyone journeying to and fro on a pack-saddle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+in Yezo. My coat and trousers were showing signs of rapid
+decay, and I thought with vain desire of needle and thread,
+buttons and hooks. My boots were falling to pieces owing to
+their continual immersion in salt water. The impossibility of
+cleaning or greasing them added to the original damage; and,
+worse luck of all, they could not be replaced. Altogether,
+what with frayed garments, leaky boots, a battered hat, and a
+general out-at-elbows air, I was scarcely presentable in any
+society a grade above that of the hairy Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>A road has been cut between Kushiro and Shibetcha, a
+distance of thirty miles; but though quite new, it is already out
+of repair, and it will not be long before it is washed away
+entirely. The Japanese Government does its best to open
+roads near the largest settlements, but Japanese officials do
+not seem to understand that after a road has been made it has
+to be kept in repair.</p>
+
+<p>The country all along is good, and the soil seems rich and
+fertile. Nearly half-way up, on the east side of the Kutcharo
+River, are three lakes,&mdash;the Takkobe, the Tori Lake, and the
+Shirin. The Tori is the largest. Its length is five miles, its
+width about one mile. On the southern shore of this lake is a
+picturesque Ainu village, with its old tumble-down huts, and
+close to it is a group of Japanese houses. The contrast
+between the dirty and neglected old hovels of the Ainu and
+the clean, spruce, and somewhat finikin houses of the Japanese
+is very striking. In this difference we read an epitome of the
+way in which civilisation has travelled from primitive barbarism.
+The road runs through dense forests; but in several places,
+especially on its highest level, we come to lovely views of
+mountain scenery, towering over the shimmering water of the
+underlying lakes.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I reached Shibetcha, a nice little place, constructed
+on each side of a large road which rises considerably
+as it goes through the village. The village lies in a small
+valley surrounded by moderately high mountains, and is on the
+western side of the Kutcharo River, which intersects the valley.
+A wooden bridge and a three-storied Japanese tea-house are
+the two main structures in the place. There are sixty-eight
+houses in the village, and nearly half of them are houses of
+ill-fame, the three-storied tea-house being the principal.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>
+At a distance of twenty-five miles from here is a sulphur
+mine, and the miners, after having amassed sufficient money,
+come and squander it at Shibetcha, thus supporting this nook
+of demoralization in the wilderness of these mountains. As
+the river becomes very shallow, the mineral from the sulphur
+mine of Yuzan was carried until quite recently on pack-saddles
+as far as here, whence it was brought down by boat to
+Kushiro for shipment; but a small railway, on which only a
+"truck train" is now running once a day from the mine to
+Shibetcha, has greatly simplified matters, and increased the
+export returns of the mine.</p>
+
+<p>By the kind permission of the Mitsui Company I was
+allowed to travel on one of the trucks (no passenger carriages
+being provided), and the two and a half hours' journey was
+thus accomplished much more comfortably than if I had
+ridden the twenty-five miles on my pack-saddle. The railway
+took me to the foot of Mount Yuzan, and that same afternoon
+I made the ascent of the mountain. The most valuable
+sulphur deposits in Japan are found on this mountain, the
+quantity of the mineral being practically unlimited. The
+ascent was hard work, but it was interesting to see the
+<i>fumaroles</i>, whence the sulphur is extracted, and whence a
+dense smoke shoots out with great force. The whole
+mountain is covered with thick layers of sulphur of very
+good quality, and when more practical processes are employed
+for the extraction and carriage of the mineral there is no doubt
+that the sulphur trade will assume a very prominent place in
+the exports of Yezo. Dozens of men are employed now to
+carry the sulphur from the mountain to the railway, but there
+is work enough for hundreds and hundreds more. All the
+sulphur is at present carried on small wheelbarrows, which
+each man slings on to his shoulders when empty and he is
+going up the mountain. When the sulphur is reached the
+workman sits down, pulls out his pipe, which he fills from the
+folds of his tobacco-pouch, has a quiet smoke and a good rest,
+then he slowly fills his wheelbarrow with the primrose-yellow
+blocks, and comfortably wheels it down hill to the station, a
+considerable distance. Such a primitive fashion of carriage
+involves great loss of time, and a simple mechanical contrivance,
+by which a large quantity of mineral could be brought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+down at one time, would save an enormous amount of labour,
+and therefore expense. A cable railway would answer the
+purpose to perfection, and the cost of running the steam
+motor would be insignificant, owing to the amount of wood
+and coal found within easy reach. I passed through a large
+gorge in the mountain, and finally reached the summit of
+Yuzan. Walking on sulphur beds is like walking on ice, and
+many a time in the climb I landed on my knees. Near the
+summit is a huge pinnacle of volcanic rock, standing up perpendicularly,
+and of impossible access. From the foot of this
+pinnacle a lovely view of the Kutcharo Lake is obtained, and
+it has as a background chain after chain of thickly-wooded
+mountains, beyond which are visible Oakan and Moyokan,
+two volcanic peaks, respectively four thousand and three
+thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea. On
+Moyokan are some hot springs and accumulations of sulphur.
+Both these peaks can be seen from the coast on a clear day.
+A small lake lies between Moyokan and Oakan, which takes
+its name from the latter mountain, and finds an outlet in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+Oakan River. The Oakan joins the Kutcharo River not far
+from the sea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
+<img src="images/illus-098.jpg" width="359" height="272" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">KUTCHARO LAKE FROM MOUNT YUZAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The descent was easier than the ascent, and I put up at
+a small tea-house, the only one in the place. The landlord
+promised to get me a good pony early the next morning, but,
+like a true Japanese, he did not keep his promise. He called
+me at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, saying that the pony would be ready in a few
+minutes, and at 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the quadruped had not put in an
+appearance; and after numberless excuses, compliments, bows,
+and lies, the landlord acknowledged that no ponies were to be
+had. I gave my luggage to a railway <i>employé</i>, who undertook
+to bring it back to Shibetcha, and I started on foot for Lake
+Kutcharo. From Yuzan a track across the mountains goes
+due north to Abashiri, on the north-east coast. I went in a
+south-westerly direction, and as on the previous day from the
+summit of Yuzan I had noted the position of Lake Kutcharo,
+I had no difficulty in finding my way there; in fact, I came
+upon a small Ainu track leading to it. A delightful walk of
+ten miles in the forest took me to the Ainu village of
+Kutcharo, on the borders of the lake of the same name. The
+village is a miserable one; it differs from all other Ainu
+villages in its huts, which have semicircular roofs instead of
+angular ones, as is the case with the Ainu of Volcano Bay and
+of the Saru and Tokachi Rivers. I entered some of the huts,
+and in a few minutes I was surrounded by the small population&mdash;I
+daresay about twenty souls, all included&mdash;whom I
+led out into the open air to see what they were like. They
+appeared to me smaller than other Ainu, and their bones were
+less massive; they were not so hairy, and more inclined to
+baldness. Their garments were wretched, and resembled
+those worn by the Tokachi Ainu; namely, a few rags held
+together one could scarcely say how. Women were tattooed
+on their lips and arms, but less extensively than are those of
+other tribes, and the tattooing was not so accurately done.</p>
+
+<p>Other Ainu whom I met in the forest in the neighbourhood
+of this village bore the same characteristics, and everyone
+seemed to be curiously melancholy and depressed. An Ainu
+existence is certainly not one's ideal of comfort and hilarity,
+but their gloom and melancholy seem to me to be purely
+racial and congenital.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+The Lake Kutcharo is very large&mdash;too large to be seen to
+advantage from its borders, as one can see only parts, and not
+the whole of it at once. It has a pretty island in the centre,
+and on the west side is a peninsula projecting almost as far as
+the island. On this peninsula a small active geyser is found,
+which rises to a height of about twelve feet, and acts spasmodically.
+The high mountains which surround the lake would
+make the latter a pleasant summer resort were the place
+within the circle of civilisation. The scenery is very similar to
+that of Norway or the Scotch lakes. The Kutcharo River, as
+can be seen on the map, is an outlet of the Lake Kutcharo,
+into which the waters of the latter discharge themselves a few
+hundred yards west of the Ainu village.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;">
+<img src="images/illus-100.jpg" width="239" height="343" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SULPHUR MINE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>An Ainu pointed out to me the track leading to Tetcha, or
+Tetchkanga, and I directed my steps in that direction, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+Ainu having informed me that it was very far, and that
+I could only reach it at night. I crossed the stream in a
+"dug-out," and found the track on the other side. I walked
+fast, for the most part through a thickly-wooded country, and
+at about sunset I reached Tetcha. The distance from Kutcharo,
+I should think, is about ten or twelve miles. Tetcha is
+an Ainu village, near which a few Japanese houses have been
+built. The Kutcharo River intersects it, and the sulphur
+train from Yuzan stops here to take water on its way to
+Shibetcha. The train had gone through some hours previously,
+and I was left the alternative of walking on to
+Shibetcha, twenty miles further, or of sleeping at Tetcha. I
+had walked twenty or twenty-two miles already that day, and
+I felt in very good form. I knew that it would be full moon
+that night; and walking through a forest by moonlight has
+always had a great charm for me. Watching the shadows,
+with their thousand different fantastic forms, running in and
+out through the trees and playing round them, has the same
+weird fascination for me as one of Tieck's tales, or the
+suggestive music of an æolian harp. Some of the Ainu and a
+Jap entreated me not to attempt to cross the forest at night,
+for wolves and bears were numerous, they said, and in all
+probability I should be attacked by them. This last announcement,
+which I was destined to hear every day in Yezo, and
+which, of course, I did not believe, decided me to go, and I
+started.</p>
+
+<p>"But," cried after me the astonished Japanese, "<i>anata micci
+wakarimasen</i>!"&mdash;"You do not know the way!"</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Kamaimasen, Sayonara!</i>"&mdash;"It little matters; good-bye!"
+was my reply; and I left him standing there perplexed, looking
+after me as if I had been a phenomenon.</p>
+
+<p>The Japanese in Yezo and the Ainu never on any account
+travel far at night; and as for going through a forest alone,
+unprotected, and without knowing the way, they evidently
+regarded it as something more reprehensible than folly. Two
+days previously, when in the train, I had noticed that the railway
+described a curve several miles long, and I knew then
+that by cutting across I could considerably shorten my way.
+When I entered the forest, the sun with its last rays was
+casting warm tints on the tops of the pine-trees. Everything<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+was still, and only now and then some huge owl, awakened by
+the noise of my steps from its day's long sleep, would fly
+away, starting off on its night's peregrinations and depredations.
+I walked mile after mile, and finally struck the
+rails again. On a white post I saw a cipher in Chinese
+characters, which brought me back to the reality that I was
+still seventeen miles away from Shibetcha. I followed the line
+of rail as closely as I could, and late at night I reached
+Shibetcha. I roused the people at the <i>Marui yadoya</i>, and,
+having eaten some salmon and water soup, I retired to my
+<i>foutangs</i>, between which, it is useless to say, I slept well. I
+had walked forty-two odd miles that day, and it had been a
+pleasant change from the continuous riding on pack-saddles.</p>
+
+<p>The next day I rode down to the coast to the bay of
+Akkeshi, about forty-two miles east of Kushiro. The road
+is very good all the way, and has on each side woods of oak
+and pine trees. The traffic on it is at present very small, and
+the only living creatures I saw during the twenty-eight or thirty
+miles were a beautiful long-tailed red fox and a number of
+Japanese convicts led by a policeman. These were dressed in
+red trousers and a short red coat made of coarse material.
+They were walking in a row, and they were chained two by
+two, and, moreover, a long rope joined the chain of each couple
+to that of the next, so that all couples were tied together.
+The end of this rope was held by the policeman. Some of
+them wore large hats entirely covering their face; others wore
+no hat at all, and had their head shaved in a peculiar manner.
+They were mostly bare-footed, but a few wore straw sandals.
+The Government wisely makes use of these convicts in opening
+roads and other public works, and after their term of punishment
+is expired, these men almost invariably become fishermen.
+A great part of the Japanese population of Yezo is
+composed of exiles and ex-convicts; in other words, Yezo is
+nothing more or less to Japan than what Australia was to
+England some years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Nearing the coast I passed the "Tonden" of Hondemura, a
+colonial militia farming settlement. A long line of new houses,
+all exactly alike in shape and size, and built at intervals,
+stretches on each side of the wide road. Each of these houses
+is inhabited by a man who has served his time as a soldier,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+and who has now his family about him, and does work as a
+farmer in this settlement assigned to him. These "Tondens"
+were established by the Government, and I believe that the
+farmer-soldiers give fairly good results in the zeal and industry
+with which they cultivate the land, and the honesty and
+morality of their lives. I saw most of them occupied in
+stubbing up the scrub, and tearing or cutting down the trees,
+burning the more worthless parts; but it will be some years
+yet before they have cleared an area of cultivable land sufficiently
+large for profit, as the country is very thickly wooded
+in that neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after I had passed the settlement, going down a steep
+hill I came upon a small and dirty semi-Ainu village, and ultimately
+reached the seashore.</p>
+
+<p>The distance from Shibetcha is thirty miles, and the riding
+was beginning to be unpleasant, owing to the gathering darkness,
+which made my pony shy at everything it passed. At
+the mouth of the Pehambe Ushi River I had great difficulty in
+getting my pony on the ferry-boat, which was to take me
+across the mouth of the lagoon to Akkeshi. Several drunken
+fishermen came on board, and were disagreeably noisy. One
+of these fellows had a pony, which he tied to mine when on
+board. The ferry was to take us across the entrance of the
+Akkeshi lagoon, and it was more than a quarter of an hour
+before we reached the opposite shore. When we were still
+nearly twenty feet from <i>terra firma</i>, my pony, frightened at
+the cries of the drunken crowd, jumped overboard, carrying
+with him his companion steed. The sudden shock and lurch
+of the boat knocked down everybody on board, and nearly
+capsized us. As it was we shipped a lot of water. The ponies
+found the water deeper than they expected, and they had to
+swim for it. Having landed before he came ashore, I recaptured
+mine, gave him a sound thrashing, and rode on to
+Akkeshi, a few hundred yards from the landing-place. Akkeshi
+lies at the north-east side of the large bay which goes by
+the same name, and which, by the way, is probably one of the
+best anchorages on the south coast of Yezo. The mouth
+of the bay is to the southward; it extends seven miles in a
+northerly direction, and is about six miles wide in its widest
+part. The bay is prolonged further inland by a large lagoon,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+called Se-Cherippe, which contains many shoals and low
+islands, near which are beds of oysters of enormous size, the
+shells of some measuring as much as eighteen inches in length.
+The Koro-pok-kuru, by whom this district was formerly thickly
+populated, seem to have relished this diet, as we find thick
+beds of discarded shells on the top of some of the lower hills,
+and in many places, especially in the vicinity of pits. These
+shell heaps are similar to those found on the main island
+of Nippon, and attributed to the Ainu. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_78">Chapter IX.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>The country round the bay and the lagoon forms a high
+land or plateau between two hundred and three hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, and the higher ground is thickly
+wooded, thus supplying Akkeshi with abundance of timber,
+mostly of evergreen trees, as Todo and Yezo-matzu, two
+spruces common in other parts of Yezo as well. With its good
+harbour, its large export of oysters, salmon, herrings, fish-manure,
+and seaweed, besides its seal-fishery and the quantity
+of good timber easily cut and transported down the lagoon
+and across the bay for shipment, it is not surprising that
+Akkeshi has become, after Hakodate, the most important
+centre on the southern coast. It is nearly half as large again
+as Kushiro, and has as many as nine hundred Japanese houses,
+besides sixty or seventy Ainu huts.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu were formerly extremely numerous in this
+district; but few of them are left now, and those few are
+indeed poor specimens of their race. They have nearly all
+become bald, and they seem to suffer very severely from
+rheumatism. Thick fogs are very prevalent along the coast,
+and it is but seldom that one can obtain a view of the whole
+bay. These fogs naturally render navigation unsafe, and are
+one of the great drawbacks to the prosperity of the place.
+However, our good Londoners could tell us that greater evils
+than fogs can exist. I have no doubt that at some future
+date we shall hear of Akkeshi as being the most important
+port in Yezo, when a railway to join it to Shibetcha shall have
+been constructed. The sulphur of Mount Yuzan will probably
+then be taken direct to this place instead of Kushiro, owing to
+the safety of its harbour, an advantage which Kushiro does
+not possess. The Akkeshi Bay is also interesting from a
+picturesque point of view, when fogs give one a chance of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>
+seeing the surrounding scenery. Some fine headlands are
+found near the town of Akkeshi, and also on each side of the
+opening of the bay into the ocean. On the eastern side, the
+two islands of Daikuku and Kodaikuku, joined to the mainland
+by the low reef, slightly under water-level, which goes round
+the bay, are of some importance for an artist. This is
+especially true of the larger island of Daikuku, which rises at a
+considerable height above the sea, forming majestic cliffs,
+beautiful in shape and colour, on which myriads of seagulls,
+albatrosses, and penguins have chosen their abode, finding in
+these almost untrodden and picturesque cliffs a safe place in
+which to lay their eggs and rear their young. Here they live
+undisturbed, save for the dashing waves of the ocean, which
+make the earth tremble and the rock crumble to pieces, but
+only meet with a blithesome welcome from the screaming,
+light-hearted, fat, and lazy-winged inhabitants, to whom those
+waves bring good stores of daily food.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;">
+<img src="images/illus-105.jpg" width="239" height="284" alt="AKKESHI IN A FOG" />
+<span class="caption">AKKESHI IN A FOG.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;">
+<img src="images/illus-106.jpg" width="235" height="314" alt="AINU MAN AND WOMAN ON HORSEBACK" />
+<span class="caption">AINU MAN AND WOMAN ON HORSEBACK.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br />
+<span class="small">From Akkeshi to Nemuro&mdash;A Horse Station&mdash;Nemuro and its People.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The road in the proximity of Akkeshi was extremely muddy
+and slippery, owing to the continuous fogs and rain. A north
+wind was blowing hard the day I left for Kiritap, and it drove
+the mist and drizzly rain right through one's skin into one's
+bones. The fogs, which are prevalent all along the coast,
+seem to excel between Akkeshi and Kiritap; so much so that
+the Japanese in the neighbourhood make them answerable for
+their baldness, and the local Ainu say they are so scantily
+hirsute because of the everlasting dampness in which they live.
+They clinch their argument by reminding you that when their
+forefathers came to this part of the coast they were as hairy
+as the bear, so what can have caused their own comparative
+smoothness but these everlasting fogs? I believe that to a
+great extent they are right, for when, after a day's wet ride, I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>
+have sat near a fire even for some hours, I have felt as if my
+skin were soaking with wet&mdash;as if I had been too long in a
+bath&mdash;and neither rubbing with cotton towels nor the warmth
+of the fire seemed thoroughly to dry it; and perhaps such an
+extraordinary dampness, constantly saturating the pores of
+the skin, may have an injurious effect upon the hair, and cause
+it to decay and fall off. It was in a thick fog like this that
+I had to find my way to Riruran, the next horse station, about
+eight miles further east. The road soon became a mere track,
+running through an undulating country, chiefly pasture land.
+As luck would have it, I had hired a pony which belonged to
+the Riruran station, and the beast was as anxious to get there
+as I was. He knew the way and I did not, so I let him guide
+me. Now and then, when the wind blew with increased
+strength, the fog lifted for a few minutes, and disclosed some
+pretty bits of landscape. The country all around was grassy,
+with the familiar densely-wooded hills in the background. It
+somewhat resembled the slopes and high lands of Cornwall,
+without, however, the herds of sheep and cattle, which in our
+country are connected with green fields; without the trim
+fences and stiles, the ploughed fields and meadows, the trim
+hedges and park-like trees, the bye-lanes and well-kept roads.</p>
+
+<p>Hill after hill was ascended and descended, the sturdy little
+pony going well towards his former home; but as yet I had
+come on no signs of any living creature. No labourers are
+here to work and plough the dark rich soil. Potato fields;
+cottages with their plots of vegetable grounds; cows and sheep
+scattered over the green pastures&mdash;all signs of vigorous and
+successful husbandry&mdash;are things that an intending traveller
+to Yezo will miss. Everywhere are solitude and monotony.
+Still, even solitude and monotony are not always to be
+abhorred, and if they have their drawbacks they also have
+their advantages. You can go undisturbed for mile after
+mile; you can think; you can dream; you can sing; you can
+keep to the track or go across country; you can go fast or
+slow, and there is no one to object, to obstruct, or to comment.
+You breathe air that no one has breathed before, and you
+quench your thirst in a limpid stream unpolluted by sewage,
+chemical refuse, or poisonous dye-stuffs. You lead a simple
+life, and, what is more, an independent life. Many a time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+when I woke up to the real state of my new condition, I
+could not help laughing at our civilised conceptions of what
+constitutes a free man in a free country, viz. that he can have
+a voice in choosing which of two men shall be sent as a
+member to Parliament.</p>
+
+<p>Absorbed, now in my own thoughts on many subjects, and
+now in gazing at the monotonous scenes, which, as if reflected
+from a magic-lantern, suddenly appeared and as suddenly
+faded away, I had not seen how far my pony had hurried on,
+when, rapidly descending a steep hill, I discerned through the
+grey fog a solitary shed in the small valley below. The
+neighing of my steed, responded to by the neighing of his
+compatriots in the valley, told me that I had reached the
+horse station of Riruran, and a few minutes later my baggage
+and pack-saddle were removed from my steaming quadruped,
+and a fresh animal was burdened with my possessions. These
+horse stations generally consist of one shed, in which the
+owner and his family live; near it is a rough enclosure formed
+of branches and trunks of trees laid down horizontally, and
+strengthened at intervals by poles stuck in the ground. The
+ponies are kept in this enclosure during the day, but are let
+loose at sunset, when they go for their food wherever they can
+get it&mdash;generally on the near hills. Early in the morning one
+or two Ainu employed in the stations start off to recapture
+the ponies, and after a struggle bring back the herd to the
+paddock. My readers, who may not be well acquainted with
+the habits of semi-wild horses, will wonder that the ponies,
+once free in an unenclosed country, do not bolt away altogether
+inland, thus making it impossible to recapture them;
+and, moreover, these readers will think what a difficult task it
+must be for the Ainu horsemen to recover all the ponies, each
+one of which, they probably imagine, has bolted in an independent
+and different direction. This is not the case. When
+a herd of ponies is let loose they invariably all go together in
+one direction, generally following those of the older animals
+which have bells hanging to their necks. When they come to a
+proper feeding-ground they all graze within a few yards of one
+another; and the chances are that the herd will not go a step
+further than is necessary, as they are terribly afraid of bears,
+their most dreaded enemy, by which they well know the more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+distant hills are infested. When their hunger is satisfied they
+shoulder up together and form a circle, in the centre of which
+the young colts are placed, these being thus well protected
+from bears, who would find a sturdy resistance in the hind
+hoofs of the outstanding guard should they come to close
+quarters. The Ainu are good trackers, and have little difficulty
+in finding in which direction the herd has moved. When this
+preliminary is ascertained, the horseman, mounted on a swift
+pony, which he has taken good care to keep behind, starts
+from the station about an hour before sunrise, so as to allow
+himself ample time to reach the herd before the sun is up.
+He finds the ponies in this circular position of defence. With
+a long stick he breaks their ranks, and by shouting, and
+wildly galloping to and fro, drives them on in front till the
+station and the pen are reached. When they have all entered
+the latter, a heavy wooden bar is rested on two biforked poles,
+one on each side of the entrance, thus barring their way out;
+and there they are kept all day, waiting for such native
+travellers or traders as may require their services along the
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the stations are owned by Japanese and by Ainu
+half-castes. Some have large numbers of ponies; some only
+a few, according to the wants of the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The average market value of a beast is between five and
+ten <i>yen</i>, or about fifteen to thirty shillings in English currency.</p>
+
+<p>At stations where the ponies are but little worked, good
+animals can sometimes be obtained for a small sum of money;
+but at stations near large settlements&mdash;where trade with other
+villages is carried on entirely by pack-ponies&mdash;they are mostly
+sorry beasts, with their backs one mass of sores, produced by
+the friction of the rough pack-saddles. Moreover, the cruel
+habit of letting colts follow mares for long distances&mdash;sometimes
+forty or fifty miles&mdash;is as painful a sight to witness as it
+is injurious to the breed. The Yezo ponies are characterised
+by their long hair and mane. They are short, sturdy, punchy
+brutes, not more than ten or twelve hands high, with a rather
+large and massive head, and thick, crooked legs. They are by
+no means fine-looking animals, nor are they well groomed&mdash;in
+fact, they are not groomed at all&mdash;but they serve capitally for
+the rough tracks and precipitous wastes of Hokkaido. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+have none of the good qualities we require in our horses, but
+they possess others which fit them for the country they are in.
+Their enormous power of endurance, and the wonderful way
+in which they can go over the steepest tracks&mdash;almost unclimbable
+on foot; their sure step when going along precipices; and
+the marvellous manner in which they pick their way over
+rocky coasts, which the waves would seem to make impassable,
+and where none of our good horses could go without breaking
+their legs, are all endowments which I feel bound to quote in
+honour of the Yezo ponies. They are not shod, and they can
+hardly be called trained. Indeed, if a traveller be a good
+rider, it is advisable to obtain a perfectly unbroken animal,
+as from my own personal experience I can say that, though
+the riding was a little more exciting, I could invariably make
+better time with a totally unbroken beast, than with one of
+the worn-out, sore-backed "quiet ponies," which needed any
+amount of thrashing to make him go.</p>
+
+<p>A curious method is adopted for directing the animal. It is
+as simple as it is ingenious. The necessary "bit" by which
+we control our horses is dispensed with, and it is replaced by
+two wooden wands about twelve inches long and two inches
+wide, tied together at one end, allowing a distance of three
+inches between them. In the middle of these wands a rope is
+passed which goes over the pony's head behind its ears; while
+the wands themselves, thus supported by it, rest one on each
+side of the pony's nose. Another rope, five or six feet in
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-110.png" width="300" height="183" alt="" title="AINU BITS" />
+<span class="caption">AINU BITS.</span></span>
+length, and acting as a rein, is fastened
+at the lower end of one of
+the wands, and passes through a
+hole in the other, thus allowing
+this simple contrivance, based on
+the lever principle, to be worked
+exactly in the same
+way as a nut-cracker,
+the pony's nose
+being the nut. The
+disadvantage of the
+system is, that
+having only one rein, this has to be passed over the pony's
+head each time one wishes to turn to the right or to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+left, as by pulling the rope hard, and thus squeezing the
+animal's nose, its head is turned in the direction in which it is
+pulled, and it is soon taught that this is the way it must go.
+Furthermore, should the pony bolt, it can be stopped by
+pulling its head close to its haunches, thereby making it
+impossible to continue its race. In the latter case it often
+happens, especially with an untrained pony, that it will spin
+round, trying to stretch its twisted neck by pushing its head
+away from the side of its body, and the result is generally a
+bad fall of horse and rider.</p>
+
+<p>Another thing of which one ought to be careful is to keep
+one's legs out of the reach of the brute's teeth; for it is
+not infrequent that instead of the man punishing the animal,
+the animal revenges itself on the man; and the incautious
+traveller realises Sydney Smith's position, and finds that to a
+Yezo pony, as well as to an English cart-horse, "all flesh is
+grass."</p>
+
+<p>From Riruran, for about fifteen miles, the way is merely
+a mountain track; and I dare say that in fine weather the
+scenery along it is picturesque. Unfortunately, when I went
+through, the fog had become more and more intense, and I
+saw very little of the landscape. At places the track led down
+to the sea, and then mounted up again over cliffs and high
+lands. As the mist, which came in gusts and waves, deepened
+or lightened in intensity, the rugged precipitous rocks, formed
+mostly of conglomerate, sandstone, and breccia, took all sorts
+of fantastic forms. Along the coast were many Ainu huts
+inhabited by half-castes and by Japanese. The Ainu were
+once very numerous in this district, but few of them are to be
+found now. The few remaining ones have yielded to the more
+civilised Japanese, and have become their servants. They are
+used as menials in most of the fishing stations, always acting
+under the directions of Japanese masters. Very frequently they
+are employed as tenders of horses, and in some places as
+guides for traders and travellers from one station to another.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Riruran the mouths of two lagoons have to be
+crossed, the larger of which is called Saruffo-Ko, or "Lake in
+a grassy plain." Cranes, swans, and ducks are numerous in
+these lagoons.</p>
+
+<p>The track continues mostly over cliffs and mountains till<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>
+Birvase, a small village of seaweed gatherers, is reached, and
+the next two and a half miles are along a sandy beach as far
+as Hammanaka. A short bridge joins this place to the island
+of Kiritap, which is separated from the mainland by a channel
+only a few feet wide. Towards the evening the fog lifted, and
+I caught a glimpse of the village.</p>
+
+<p>The ponies of the Kiritap village had just been let loose,
+and were running over the small wooden bridge with great
+clamour. The houses, which number about a hundred and
+twenty, are all poor and dirty. There is a main street, and
+most of the houses are on each side of it. The people are
+fishermen, seaweed gatherers, and small traders; for Hammanaka
+Bay, being a good anchorage for junks and small craft
+under the lee of Kiritap Island, is a place of some importance
+for its export trade of seaweeds, fish-oil, and herring guano;
+these products being sent down to Hakodate.</p>
+
+<p>If a few Ainu have adopted the Japanese language, clothes,
+and customs, there are also many Japanese who have taken
+up the Ainu language and ways. I noticed this more particularly
+in this district, where the Ainu have almost entirely disappeared.
+The older Japanese and many of the younger folks
+have Ainu features; and not only have they adopted a great
+number of Ainu words, but when talking Japanese they speak
+it with the peculiar intonation and accent pertaining to the
+Ainu. This is not surprising, nor yet peculiar to the Japanese
+or the Chinese; for we find that almost all English residents
+in Chinese ports adopt many of the words of our pig-tailed
+brothers, and have thus formed a kind of local English, besides
+the "pidgeon-English"&mdash;a corruption of "business English"&mdash;which
+almost constitutes a language of its own.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu, like the Scotch or the French, give a rolling
+sound to the "r." Thus, for instance, if I had written the
+word "Riruran" as it is pronounced I should have spelt it
+"Rrirrurran." Then the Ainu almost sing their words&mdash;the
+women in a falsetto voice, ending in a singularly mournful
+kind of cadenza. On his return from a journey, a hunt, or a
+fishing expedition, the Ainu squats down cross-legged in his
+hut, and, after the conventional introductory ceremony of
+rubbing the palms of his hands together and then repeatedly
+stroking his hair and beard, proceeds to relate the adventures<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>
+that have befallen him during his absence. This he does by
+singing out his story in a sort of monotone, or sometimes
+chanting it. When conversing with Japanese the Ainu have
+slightly modified this habit, which gave rise to much mirth to
+the light-hearted sons of the Mikado's empire. However,
+like all people who are ready to laugh at everything novel, the
+local Japanese have now themselves fallen into that same
+manner of speaking, which, after all, has its charms, as it
+is rather sentimental in spirit, and so far pleasant to the
+ear. What is more, they have also acquired the slow ways
+of the Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>All along the beach between Hammanaka and Hattaushi,
+a distance of nearly twenty miles, there are fishermen's and
+seaweed gatherers' huts; but none of them is inhabited by
+Ainu. Men, women, and children are all occupied in the
+seaweed gathering industry; and it is when the sea is stormy
+that the largest quantity of kelp is collected. The numerous
+reefs and rocks all along the shore-line afford suitable ground
+and bottom for its growth and production; and during a
+stormy sea quantities of kelp float on the breaking waves, to
+be finally thrown on shore. The industrious gatherers seldom
+wait for this "jetsam," as the long weeds, after they are
+washed off the rock, and before they are finally swept on shore,
+are apt to be damaged by the waves, and are therefore of less
+value for the export market than when long and fresh;
+wherefore, each gatherer provides himself with a long pole or
+hook, and from morning till night these half-naked "toilers of
+the sea" can be seen running to and fro in and out of the
+waves dragging bunches of long ribbon-like seaweeds, which
+are then carefully disentangled, stretched on the sands to dry,
+and, after several days of exposure, are packed for the market.</p>
+
+<p>Some huge cliffs towering over the sandy beach make the
+track interesting; and here and there, scattered in the
+Hammanaka Bay, are some oyster-banks before reaching the
+single shed of Hattaushi. The following twelve miles were
+on an extremely bad track, partly over steep hills and partly
+on tiresome soft sand. Then I arrived at Otchishi&mdash;without
+exception the loveliest little spot in Yezo. It lies in the centre
+of a small bay, on the two sides of which are magnificent
+headlands with precipitous cliffs and rocks of volcanic formation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>
+On a pretty bit of green grass in the foreground, only a
+few feet above the sea-level, were a shed and a storehouse. A
+reef and shallow water closed the entrance of the bay to the
+foaming waves of the Pacific. In the sheltered water, which
+was as smooth as a mirror, the dark rich colour of the
+overhanging rocks, caressed by the last warm rays of the dying
+sun, was reflected with absolute fidelity and almost increased
+loveliness. A cold whitish sky, and the <i>white horses</i> breaking
+on the reef, completed the <i>ensemble</i> of that lovely scene; and it
+was with great regret, after having attempted a sketch, that I
+was told my horse was ready, and I had to leave this poetical
+and exquisite scene.</p>
+
+<p>On the slight elevations near Otchishi, and in the valley,
+pits are still to be seen, showing that the pit-dwellers were
+once numerous in this district. They are found both along
+the coast as well as slightly inland by the side of small rivers,
+and on the shores of the Saruffu lagoon. A well-kept road
+begins at Otchishi, and goes on to Nemuro. At first it runs
+over hilly ground and through an oak-wooded country, then
+through thick forests of spruce trees, the trees standing very
+close together. About four miles from Nemuro a military
+settlement&mdash;"Hanasaki"&mdash;similar to the one on the Shibetcha-Akkeshi
+road, has been established by the Japanese Government.
+Here, again, I was struck by the difficulty and the
+amount of labour involved in clearing the trees off the ground.
+It will take many years before the industrious farmers will
+have any return for their hard labour. I do not know what
+the object of the Japanese Government may have been
+in starting these two militia settlements in spots so
+unfit for cultivation, but it seems a great pity to see the
+Tokachi region, which has all the requisites for successful
+agriculture, quite deserted, while hundreds of men are
+wasting their strength and time at other places, where it
+will take several years to open enough ground for even a
+kitchen-garden.</p>
+
+<p>Past the long row of houses at Hanasaki the road descends
+gently, and I arrived at Nemuro, a thriving place of about
+fifteen hundred houses, on the south-west coast of the plateau-like
+peninsula ending at Cape Noshafu. The general elevation
+of the plateau is between sixty and one hundred and twenty feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+above the sea-level, and the high land is covered with undergrowth
+and stunted trees, such as scrub bamboo, oak, birch,
+and alder, the east winds and fogs no doubt preventing the
+latter from attaining a larger growth. Some low islands and
+reefs lie north and south off Cape Noshafu, and make navigation
+very unsafe for the small coasting crafts which sometimes
+during the summer call at Nemuro for sea-weed, herring,
+salt, salmon, and herring guano; the first exported chiefly to
+China, the others to Tokio and Southern Japan. Herrings are
+caught in large numbers during the spring and summer, and
+the export of fish-manure would be considerably increased if
+the harbour at Nemuro could be safely entered by larger
+ships. As it is now, though well sheltered by the small island
+of Bentenjima, it can only harbour small ships, as, besides not
+being deep, its entrance is narrow and of difficult access during
+the thick fogs of the summer. In the winter and part of the
+spring the harbour and the coast as far as Noshafu Cape are
+blocked with drift ice, thus stopping navigation altogether.
+The trade from the adjoining coast and the Kurile Islands
+concentrates at this port, and as a farming region the small
+portion of available land north-west of the town has given fairly
+good results. Horse-breeding has proved a success for the
+local wants, but hardly so in producing a fine breed of horses.
+Cattle-breeding, on the other hand, has been a failure all
+through, owing to the severe weather in winter, which
+the imported animals could not stand. In spite of strong
+easterly winds, heavy fogs, ice, and snow, fair crops of <i>daikon</i>,
+potatoes, turnips, barley, beans, wheat, and hemp are successfully
+raised here, as the soil is of extremely good quality. As
+to the town itself, it is prettily laid out, the streets crossing
+each other at right angles, while some of the houses
+are built in semi-European style, to meet the severity of
+the climate. A Shinto temple is erected on the high
+level; and from this is obtained a fine bird's-eye view of the
+harbour and town, with the numerous storehouses overlooking
+the sea.</p>
+
+<p>As I have given a short description of the town&mdash;uninteresting
+save from a commercial point of view&mdash;I feel that I owe a
+few lines to its go-ahead inhabitants. Belonging, nearly all, to
+a young and adventurous generation, they reminded me of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+same type of Englishmen who have abandoned their fatherland
+and settled in America and Australia, striving, and often
+succeeding, in making a fortune. Such men are invariably of
+a different "make" from that of the young fellows who are
+satisfied to drudge for life in a bank, a merchant's office, or a
+shop&mdash;vegetating rather than living; following their day's
+routine in a mechanical sort of way; grumbling continually,
+but never bold enough to attempt any improvement of their
+position. As one is born an artist, a musician, or a literary
+man, one has to be born a colonist to be a successful one.</p>
+
+<p>The young Japanese whom I met at Nemuro impressed
+me as being thoroughly different from any I had come across
+in my one year's stay in Southern Japan; and I was agreeably
+surprised when I found that I was dealing with a lot of young,
+clever, and serious men, willing to improve their country and
+themselves, and anxious to accept any practical hint that
+would enable them to accomplish this in the shortest time
+possible. In other words, they had lost the slow, phlegmatic
+way of transacting business of the "stay-at-homes," and had
+accepted the quick perception of the true colonist, who is
+always ready to catch all the chances which will help him to
+get on in life.</p>
+
+<p>I had been struck with this energy, this go-ahead faculty,
+several times along the south-west and south-east coasts,
+when conversing with the Japanese with whom I came in
+contact; but I was never so much impressed as at Nemuro,
+where, indeed, the men are of a superior class, well-educated,
+and belonging to good families, while most of the Japanese at
+fishing stations along the coast are taken from the scum of
+the towns. They are often escaped or ex-convicts, or else
+people who found it advisable to abandon the livelier shores
+of Nippon, leaving no trace of themselves rather than end
+their days in a prison cell.</p>
+
+<p>Nemuro is a progressive place in every way, and had it been
+built five miles further west it would have been intersected by
+the Onnetto River&mdash;a short outlet of the Onnetto Lagoon,
+which would have formed a larger and safer harbour than the
+present Nemuro anchorage. As it is, prosperity showed itself
+in the usual way, by the number of eating-houses for all
+classes, a theatre, numerous <i>guechas</i>&mdash;singers and dancers&mdash;and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+a whole street of houses of light morals, in which, behind
+a wooden grating similar to a huge cage, dozens of girls are
+shown in their gaudy red and gold embroidered <i>kimonos</i>, with
+elaborate <i>obis</i> round their waist, and expensive long tortoise-shell
+hairpins artistically surrounding their heads like a halo.
+There in a line the pretty girls sit for several hours on their
+heels in front of a <i>hibachi</i>&mdash;brazier&mdash;smoking their diminutive
+pipes. They are fair game for now the compliments and now
+the jokes of the crowd promenading up and down the street
+in the evening. Every now and then, when an admirer approaches
+the cage, one of the girls gets up, refills her tiny pipe
+with tobacco, and offers it to him, not forgetting to wipe the
+mouthpiece with the palm of her hand before so doing. He
+(the admirer) puffs away, and returns the empty pipe with
+thanks, shifting on to another cage to have his next smoke.
+Japanese men cannot live without <i>guechas</i>, and it follows as a
+matter of course that Nemuro, being a prosperous place, there
+are many of them.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>guecha</i> is a singer or dancer (posturing), or both, and one
+or more generally attend dinner-parties and festivities of any
+kind. Some sing with self-accompaniment of <i>shamesen;</i> others
+display their wonderful powers of mimicking and posturising,
+in which grace is never lacking. A long <i>kimono</i>, a carefully-arranged
+<i>obi</i>, and a pretty pair of white <i>tabi</i>&mdash;short socks with
+split toes&mdash;make up the graceful and simple attire in which
+they appear in the house. Their hair, plastered down with
+camelia oil, is a veritable work of art. It is carefully combed,
+oiled, and flattened behind the ears. A metal fastener at the
+lowest point of the curve keeps it in this flat position, and it is
+then raised again and fastened at the back of the head, first in
+a most elaborate twist, and then rolled up in graceful curves.
+A pretty, tasteful <i>kanzashi</i>&mdash;a long hairpin&mdash;is placed on the
+left side of the head, thus completing that part of a <i>guecha's</i>
+toilette.</p>
+
+<p>The sallow complexion characteristic of the race is despised
+by the womankind of Japan, and all women are given to
+"painting" themselves. With us such a custom is not uncommon,
+but it is disregarded by most sensible women.
+In Japan it is part of the ordinary woman's daily toilette. A
+thick layer of white chalk is first smeared with a soft brush<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>
+over the face, neck, shoulders, arms, and hands; then the pretty
+<i>mouseme</i>, dipping her first finger in red paint, gently rubs this
+on her cheeks, her temples, and over the upper eyelids. The
+middle finger is the "black brush," and adds sentiment to the
+expression by blackening under the eyes; and sometimes when
+the eyebrows are not shaved it is also used to accentuate
+them. A piece of burnt cork is often used as a substitute for
+black paint. The fourth finger has no occupation, but the little
+finger is for finishing touches, brightening up the mouth with
+carmine, and adding a bit of gold on the lower lip. A <i>guecha</i>
+paints herself to a much greater extent than other women, and
+with brighter colours. As to her moral qualities, a <i>guecha</i> is
+usually not immoral enough to be called "fast," yet too fast to
+be qualified as "moral." Their music and posturing have
+a great charm for Japanese; and when money is made, a good
+quantity of it goes to keeping up these feminine musicians and
+their establishments.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>To show how enterprising and Americanised the Nemuro
+people are, I shall ask the reader's forgiveness for again
+relating a personal experience which at the time greatly
+amused me.</p>
+
+<p>I was in the midst of my simple Japanese dinner in
+the Jamaruru tea-house, when four youths entered my
+room and offered to shake hands with me&mdash;a most unusual
+thing with Japanese. One of them handed me his card,
+on which I read, "K. Sato, <i>Nemuro Shimbun</i>" (Nemuro
+newspaper).</p>
+
+<p>"Oh," I said in Japanese, "you have even a newspaper at
+Nemuro."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," answered in English one of his friends, a Mr. Yuasa,
+handing me his own card.</p>
+
+<p>"You speak English, then, Mr. Yuasa?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes."</p>
+
+<p>"Can I offer you and your friends anything to drink or to
+eat?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes."</p>
+
+<p>"What will you have?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes."</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+"Will you have some <i>sake</i>?"</p>
+
+<p>"No, no; I come to speak to you."</p>
+
+<p>"Thank you."</p>
+
+<p>"No, no; I come to <i>take your life</i> in Nemuro newspaper.
+Please speak where come? How old? Where go?"</p>
+
+<p>When I had sufficiently recovered from the shock of his
+announcement that he had come to take my life, and understood
+what he meant by it, I had a most pleasant conversation in
+English with him, and in Japanese with the others. Mr. Yuasa's
+English improved as his shyness wore off, showing that he had
+a very fair knowledge of the language. The interview lasted
+many hours, continually interrupted by the <i>nara honto</i> and
+the <i>sajo deska</i>&mdash;"really" and "indeed" of my visitors&mdash;while
+notes were taken by the editor and his staff. They finally
+departed, and early the next morning I received the following
+letter:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"<span class="smcap">Sir</span>,&mdash;I long that you will correspond to me any events
+wherever you have met them in your journey when you are
+not so awful busy, as I have to translate and write on the
+Nemuro <i>News</i>. I meet the first time here, and I hope to
+have your friendly favor hitherto, and thanks for your kindness
+I have received ever, believe me, your humble servant,
+F. <span class="smcap">Yuasa</span>."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The same afternoon the editor and his staff called again,
+accompanied by the two Mr. Nakamuras, the richest merchants
+in Nemuro, and they insisted on giving me a European dinner.
+After my experience at Otsu as regards European cooking by
+Japanese, I was rather loth to accept their kind invitation, but I
+had to yield. The feast began with biscuits and jam,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> and the
+soup was brought immediately after; then vegetables were
+followed by roast chicken, and the latter by salad and fried fish.
+With the exception of the somewhat inverted order of the
+courses, this time it was actually a European dinner, and even
+well-cooked; but my hosts were seen at a great disadvantage
+when using a knife and fork. As for the anatomy of the
+chicken, that was decidedly their weakest point. Those of
+the party who were shy gave up the carving as a bad job; the
+bolder only fought bravely; and every now and then a knife<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+gave a terrible squeak on the plate, and half a leg, a wing, or a
+carcase was fired right across the table into one's plate, if not
+in one's face, or on one's lap.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Honto taihen muskashi</i>"&mdash;"Really it is very difficult"&mdash;said
+the wit of the party, helplessly putting down his knife and
+fork after trying to separate the two parts of a wing. "This
+bird's bones have lost all their joints in the cooking."</p>
+
+<p>My hosts were extremely kind, and were, besides, so clever
+and bright that I enjoyed their good company immensely.
+At the same time I gained from them valuable information as
+regards the neighbouring country and the Kurile Islands.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-120.png" width="300" height="224" alt="SEMI-AINU RAT TRAP" />
+<span class="caption">SEMI-AINU RAT TRAP.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 220px;">
+<img src="images/illus-121.jpg" width="220" height="262" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">AINU WOMAN OF KURILE ISLANDS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br />
+<span class="small">The Kurile Islands.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>From Nemuro I put to sea in a miserable little Japanese
+craft&mdash;a kind of tug-boat&mdash;which once or twice a year goes to
+the principal islands of the Kurile group, and brings back their
+products to Nemuro. It is needless to say that I was the only
+passenger on board, though it is fair to add that the saloon
+was large enough to "accommodate" two, but not more. As
+for the only cabin, it had two berths, one over the other, but
+no available space for dressing or undressing, which therefore
+had to be got through outside, unless it was to be done by
+instalments, lying down in the berth itself. I shall spare my
+readers a minute description of this "ocean clipper," her
+tonnage, and horse-power, and I shall not attempt to narrate
+the many disadvantages of travelling in a ship engaged in the
+fish-manure, dried-fish, and sea-weed trade. These three very
+strongly scented articles speak for themselves without the
+need of words.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+The Kuriles are the islands which stretch like a row of
+beads from the most north-easterly coast of Yezo to the most
+southerly point of Kamschatka. They extend from 145° to
+158° longitude east of Greenwich, and between 42° and 51°
+latitude north.</p>
+
+<p>The archipelago forms part of the Japanese Empire, having
+been exchanged by Russia not many years ago for the
+southern half of Saghalien Island, then belonging to Japan.
+This group of islands is characterised mainly by the great
+extent of its volcanic rocks and tertiaries, showing marked
+evidence that it is only a continuation of the volcanic
+mountain-range forming the backbone of Yezo, and extending
+from Yubaridake, in the upper Ishikari province, to Cape
+Shiretoko; which volcanic region embraces a large portion of
+the Tokachi, Kitami, and Nemuro provinces. In this chain of
+islands there are many beautiful volcanic cones, especially in
+Kunashiri and Etorofu. Iron, copper, and other metal veins
+are found in small quantities in tuffs and andesites, but
+more important here, moreover, are the large sulphur accumulations
+near and in craters, both extinct and active; as on
+Mount Rahush, in Kunashiri, and the Ichibishinai, in Etorofu,
+the largest island of the Kuriles. At Pontoo, in Kunashiri,
+sulphur bubbles out from the bottom of a volcanic lake, which
+is probably an extinct crater.</p>
+
+<p>Beside being rich in minerals, the larger islands of the
+Kuriles abound in game; but fishing is the main industry
+practised by the sparse population of these rugged regions.
+The origin of the word "Kuriles" is not certain, but in all
+probability it is from the Russian <i>kuril</i>, smoke, as there are
+many active volcanoes in the islands. The more poetical
+Japanese call them <i>Chishima</i>, or the "Thousand Islands,"
+meaning that they are numberless, and the <i>nonchalant</i> Ainu
+of Yezo profess entire ignorance as to their existence, and
+only some of the better informed give them the name of
+<i>Krafto</i>, by which they really mean Sakhalin. The hairy
+people are emphatically poor geographers, and have but little
+faculty for locating islands or any other places. In fact, how
+could they, having no maps, and no idea even of what a map
+is? The Chishima group and the island of Yezo, with all
+the smaller islands along and near its coast, when taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+collectively, are called by the Japanese "The Hokkaido."
+The nearest of the Kuriles to Yezo is Kunashiri, and south of
+it lies the smaller island of Shikotan; then comes Etorofu,
+the largest of the group; then Urup; after this a number of
+unhabited islets, reefs, and rocks form a barrier separating the
+Otkoshk Sea from the Pacific Ocean. Shimushir, at the south-western
+end of this barrier, and Onekotan, at the north-eastern,
+are the two largest, Shimushir being about thirty
+miles in length and four or five wide, and Onekotan about
+twenty-five miles long and eight wide. Paromushir (a corruption
+of the Ainu words <i>poro</i>, large, and <i>mushiri</i>, island) is the
+last island of the group. It has a large reef on its south-east
+coast, and is divided by a channel six or seven miles wide
+from Cape Lopatka, the most southern point of the Kamschatkan
+peninsula. Paromushir is about twice the size of
+Urup, and is very mountainous, with rugged cliffs of volcanic
+formation, and high picturesque peaks, bearing the same
+characteristics as the scenery in Etorofu and Kunashiri, and
+also of Kamschatka. I have mentioned this last island, as it
+is of some interest, being the most northern point of the
+Japanese empire; and also to a certain extent it is interesting
+from a geological point of view, but, as far as I know, it is not
+inhabited now, and the few Kurilsky Ainu who formerly lived
+there migrated further south from one island to another, till
+Shimushir<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> and Urup<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> afforded them a more hospitable home.
+However, they were not to live there for long, for the Japanese
+Government, asserting that subjects of the empire who chose
+to live so far could not be properly looked after, sent the
+small ship on which I was now travelling on a mission with
+orders to bring them all down to the formerly deserted island
+of Shikotan. The orders had to be obeyed; and reluctantly
+setting fire to the huts which they were about to abandon and
+never to see again, ninety souls, all that remained of that
+nomad tribe of Ainu, were embarked and carried into exile at
+Shikotan. The quiet life on the Shikotan rocks little suits the
+roaming disposition of the Kurilsky Ainu; and though even
+formerly they were rapidly dying out, the rate of mortality
+has increased since their exile. Having thus verified the fact<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>
+that of the "Thousand Islands" of the Chishima group only
+three are inhabited, I shall avoid giving a monotonous description
+of each bare-looking islet and rock, and I shall land my
+readers at Shikotan, on a visit to the Kurilsky Ainu, who are
+important to us in connection with the Ainu of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>It was early in the morning when I looked out of the porthole,
+and by a fine moonlight saw that we were close to the
+coast. Huge cliffs and peaks, ending in a sharp point, some
+converging towards one another, some standing upright
+against the whitish cold sky, were reflected in the smooth
+water under the lee of the island. The moon, surrounded by
+a yellowish halo, shone bright over the rugged scene, giving
+delicate bluish tints to all the shadows; while the water,
+disturbed and cut by the prow of our craft, rose in gentle
+waves, pursuing one another, as if running for a place of refuge
+in the mysterious dark shadows of the cliffs. So weird, so
+enchanted and wild was the scene, that I jumped out of my
+stuffy bunk and went on deck. There I stood, notwithstanding
+the cold, gazing at the gigantic overhanging black rocks,
+at the precipices, crevices, and natural openings through which
+now and then the radiant moon peeped, covering the dark
+green water with a long undulating streak of silver dashes.
+There I stood, listening to the voices of the waves, which
+rippled on the shingle, contemplating this strange and poetic
+work of nature. I am certain that if sirens there ever were
+in this world, their home must have been among the whimsical
+and <i>bizarre</i> rocks of Shikotan Island. The old "tub" on
+which I was "ploughing the waves" moved slowly through
+this heavenly spectacle of ever-increasing beauty. When the
+sun rose, enchantment was added to enchantment. The cold
+bluish colour of the rocks became gradually warmer; and, as
+the light grew stronger, the tops of the cliffs turned into a mass
+of brilliant colours. Nature was waking slowly from her
+torpid sleep, and, in the freshness of the morning, a light
+breeze, caressing the shore, brought with it the smell of
+land.</p>
+
+<p>The captain, a Japanese, informed me that we should soon
+enter the harbour of Shikotan, and, pointing to some huge
+pillars, said that was the entrance. We drew nearer and
+nearer to it, and the nearer we drew the more I became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>
+convinced that the captain was under an hallucination. I
+could only see rock after rock, huge pillar after huge pillar;
+but no entrance whatever.</p>
+
+<p>"We are just going in," said the captain, laughing at my
+astonishment, and he gave orders to the quartermaster at the
+wheel to steer straight for one of the pillars. We were but a
+few yards from it when our craft was made to swing rapidly on
+her starboard side, and we turned round a gigantic shoulder of
+rock, to find ourselves in a narrow channel. One minute later
+we were in a pretty circular harbour, surrounded by high
+peaks&mdash;in fact, a kind of "fiord." The access to this harbour
+is certainly difficult to find, but when you are fairly in, it is
+seen to afford a well-sheltered anchorage. It has more the
+appearance of a small mountain lake than that of a sea-harbour;
+and undoubtedly it is a submerged crater. It is
+perfectly circular, and very deep, but not of large capacity.
+Directly opposite the entrance, on the shore, is a small narrow
+valley, on which is situated the village of the Kurilsky Ainu.
+Four men rowed me ashore, and I went to the village.</p>
+
+<p>When the Japanese imported these Kurilsky Ainu to
+Shikotan, they allowed them to build their huts in their own
+way; but this done, a railing with a gate was erected, closing
+the entrance of the valley which overlooks the harbour, thus
+preventing the poor wretches from abandoning the island to
+resume their migratory habits, and return to their more
+northern homes. Inside this gate two rows of huts, exactly
+similar to those of the Yezo Ainu, have been constructed by
+the exiles. There are sixteen huts altogether, and not a single
+one of them is built over a pit. In <a href="#Page_78">Chapter IX</a>, I have fully
+explained the characteristics and mode of living, which leaves
+no doubt as to these people being proper Ainu, and not pit-dwellers,
+as some have asserted; though of course their type
+is slightly modified by external conditions&mdash;a common occurrence
+in all races. Take a Londoner, a provincial, and a seaman,
+and though they be all three Englishmen, one will have
+a washed-out look, the other will be healthy and strong, but
+not so sturdy, wiry, and weather-beaten as the sailor. The
+same natural process is at work with this tribe of Ainu. They
+conform their life according to circumstances and places; and
+though they possess the same general characteristics as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+rest of the Ainu, in some small details they cannot but differ
+from them.</p>
+
+<p>Shikotan was a deserted island previous to these poor
+wretches being transplanted there by the Japanese Government.
+It does not abound
+in game, like Shimushir,
+Urup, or Poromushir,
+whence they were taken.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 194px;">
+<img src="images/illus-126.jpg" width="194" height="199" alt="" title="SHIKOTAN AINU" />
+<span class="caption">SHIKOTAN AINU.</span></div>
+
+<p>The story of this tribe
+of Ainu is a sad one.
+Hunting, sealing, and fishing
+were their only aims
+in life, their only pastimes,
+the only things they lived
+for. At Shikotan they
+have none of these things.
+There is no big game; the
+only animal found being a
+beautiful species of white
+long-tailed fox. There are
+no large rivers at Shikotan; there is hardly any vegetation,
+and the whole island is nothing but a mass of barren rocks.</p>
+
+<p>The food of the Kurilsky Ainu consisted chiefly of meat of
+bear and seals, berries, and eggs of sea-birds. They were a
+migratory people, and in their small cranky canoes they often
+crossed from one island to another, carrying with them all
+their property, consisting of skin garments and fishing and
+hunting implements, these latter the same as those employed
+by other Ainu. The dress of the men is shaped like a short
+tunic, made of sea-birds' skins, with the feathers inside. Some
+of the smart ones are trimmed with seal, and they are worn
+fastened round the waist with a girdle of sealskin or a belt of
+sea-lion hide, often ornamented with molten lead buttons or
+Chinese cash. The women's garment is much longer, and
+reaches nearly to the feet; it falls loosely, and has long
+sleeves covering the hands; it is fastened with a girdle in
+bad weather, and the gown is then pulled up to the knee,
+showing the long yellow boots. When carrying water or
+working this is also done, as it gives greater freedom to the
+limbs, making walking and all movement much easier. A red,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>
+yellow, or brightly-coloured handkerchief, of Russian manufacture,
+is tied round the neck and another round the back of
+the head, and this makes the women look like Italian peasants.
+As the gown is worn usually loose it has the identical shape of
+a dressing-gown; it is ornamented with yellow feathers of
+puffins round the neck and the edge. Both men and women
+wear either moccasins, or long boots made of sealskin, with the
+fur inside, or else they wear salmon-skin boots, like the Ainu
+of Yezo. No woman that I saw at Shikotan had a moustache
+tattooed round her lips, or any tattoo marks on her arms. Very
+few of them wore earrings, though all had the ears bored for
+that purpose, and had worn them. The earrings which they
+possessed were mostly strings of coral beads and metal
+ornaments of Russian manufacture, which, like the brightly-coloured
+handkerchiefs, they had received in bartering with
+the crew of a sealing schooner. Since they have been at
+Shikotan the men have been presented with old caps and
+overcoats, similar to those of the Japanese police. Previous
+to this, however, when the Kuriles were under the rigid
+Russian <i>régime</i>, the Kurilsky Ainu men were compelled to
+trim their hair and beard, which was the first step taken by
+the priests of the Coptic Church in Christianising these
+nomadic barbarians. When this hair-dressing order was
+complied with, as the first link of the chain, the Coptic creed
+was enforced on them, and the barbarous Kurilsky Ainu
+became well-trimmed orthodox Christians.</p>
+
+<p>At Shikotan, as it is, fishing on a small scale is their main
+occupation, praying the next, and Jacko, the chief of the village,
+is the high priest. Jacko's predecessor, in fulfilling the
+duties of this high post, was a man who had dropped his
+Ainu name, and had been baptized as Alexandrovitch. His
+house is now occupied by Jacko. It is the first on the right-hand
+side when the village is entered from the harbour side,
+and it is larger than any of the others; it is built of wood
+instead of rushes and reeds. The interior is divided into two
+rooms, and in the second are three stands, the middle one
+of which has a cross on it. On each of these stands is
+a Russian Bible, with images hanging on the page-marks.
+Several rough stools and a couple of benches are placed in
+rows in front of these stands, and on the walls hang two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>
+or three Russian religious images. Taken altogether, and
+compared with other Ainu huts, Jacko's chapel had quite a
+stately appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Just as the Ainu of Yezo have partly acquired the Japanese
+language, the Kurilsky Ainu have learned to talk Russian,
+besides speaking an Ainu dialect.</p>
+
+<p>On Sundays, or on any day which Jacko thinks is a Sunday,
+the chief reads the mass before a congregation of the other fifty-nine
+hairy Christians of the Russian Orthodox Church; he does
+not spare them a sermon, which sometimes lasts half the day,
+and his audience are most attentive and well behaved. None of
+them would think of leaving church before service is over; but
+one detail in which these hairy Christians are not yet fully
+Christianised is, that no collection plate is ever sent round!
+The Kurilsky Ainu have undoubtedly accepted the form of
+their adopted religion, but I rather doubt whether they have
+fallen in with the principle. Their former barbarian ideas
+and superstitions are still well rooted in their brain, and each
+individual was a curious and enviable combination of a
+perfect heathen and a thorough Christian, according to what
+suited him or her better at the time being. In other words,
+they believed in two diametrically opposed principles, one
+of which fitted in with every phase of their life when the other
+was deficient.</p>
+
+<p>As many as ninety people, all told, were landed at Shikotan,
+but thirty had already succumbed when I visited the island.
+A graveyard on a hill on the west side of the village was
+indeed a sad reminder of this fact. It will not be long before
+all the others will pass away, for consumption and rheumatism
+have a great hold on most of the wretches. In ten years from
+now, I dare say, not one of the Kurilsky tribe of Ainu will be
+left on this earth. It is pitiful that the last remains of these
+independent people will end their days secluded and in exile
+on the barren rocks of Shikotan.</p>
+
+<p>As it is, they seem to take life easily, and, with a characteristic
+proper to all nomadic peoples, they make the best of what
+they can get. They are not shy, and they have dropped the
+formalities and grand salutations of other Ainu. They are,
+however, as dirty, especially in their homes. The women dress
+their hair in small tresses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>
+The children wear long gowns similar to those of the
+women, and one or two of the children I saw had very fair
+hair. As will be seen by the illustrations, some of the men
+and women possess good features, more resembling those of
+European races than those of Mongolian type. They are
+gentle and quiet, like all other Ainu. They are submissive,
+and resigned to their sad fate.</p>
+
+<p>The island of Skikotan is almost circular in shape, and
+it has one or two small anchorages on its north coast. I
+judged its diameter to be about twelve or thirteen miles.
+Etorofu and Kunashiri, though much larger in size, are of less
+interest to us in connection with the Ainu, as most of that race
+found there migrate from Yezo during the fishing season;
+therefore, nothing is to be added about them.</p>
+
+<p>Etorofu is a long, narrow, but irregular island, over one
+hundred miles in length, and varying in breadth from five or
+six to twenty miles. It is very mountainous, and has some
+bold, rugged scenery, owing to its volcanic formation.
+Etorofu is by far the largest island of the Kurile group, and it
+possesses many safe anchorages, especially on its north-west
+coast, where several mountainous capes branch off the narrow
+strip of land, and afford small ships a fairly safe harbourage
+from west and south-westerly winds. Unfortunately, however,
+they are open to northerly and north-east gales, during
+the prevalence of which, should a ship happen to be cruising
+about in those latitudes, she would have to run for a shelter
+to the south-east coast. The south-east coast is not peopled,
+with the exception of a very few huts near Moyorotake, or
+"Bear Bay," at its most south-eastern point. A better shelter,
+however, is to be found in the bay, nearly in the middle of the
+island, on the shores of which are a few huts at Onembets and
+Imotsuto. Most of the coast is deserted, and the south-east
+portion is very rocky, huge cliffs, with high richly-coloured
+mountains in the background, ending like an impassable wall
+into the sea. Where the island is narrower there are some
+low terraces with scrub bamboo and stunted trees. Larch
+is found in Etorofu, while it is seldom found in Yezo.
+Heather-like plants are also indigenous in Etorofu, and
+cranberry bushes are frequent near the coast. From Betoya or
+Bettobu Bay down to its most south-western point Etorofu is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>
+all mountainous, with the exception of a small valley near
+Rubets. It is along the banks of the Bettobu River, in that
+small valley and on those terraces, that the numerous pits of
+the Koro-pok-kuru are found, and also at Rupets, further
+south on the same coast. This, however, I have already
+explained in connection with the pit-dwellers. The two
+small fishing-stations above mentioned are respectively under
+the lee of the headlands ending in Cape Ikahasonets and
+Notoro Cape. On the first headland the mountain of Tsiriju
+rises to a great altitude. The largest fishing-station is at
+Shana, on the western side of this headland, and further north,
+besides Bettobu, is the small station of Shibets. South-west
+of Shana one finds Rubets, Furubets, Oitoi, and Naibo, the
+latter in the bay of the same name. There are five lakes in
+Etorofu, two of which are between Shana and Bettobu, one
+near Rubets, the other close to Naibo; the fifth is a very
+small one, fifteen or sixteen miles north-east of Bettobu. The
+country has a rugged look, and in some places, as near Rubets,
+where the volcanic mountain masses leave space for low
+terraces the scrub-bamboo is very thick, as in Yezo, and
+small and stunted trees form the chief vegetation. Larch is
+more common on the north-west coast than on the south-east.
+Good timber is rather scarce in Etorofu, but a fair quantity of
+it is to be found inland, and also at the south-western portion
+of the island about Naipo.</p>
+
+<p>Accumulations of sulphur are found at Ichibishinai, and
+there is an active volcano south-east of Bettobu, besides the
+beautiful volcanic cone of Atzosa, three or four thousand feet
+above sea-level. All this volcanic mountain mass, with its
+warmly-tinted peaks, bears the characteristics of the central
+portion of Yezo; and there seems to be little doubt that all
+this row of islands, with the frequent submerged craters and
+volcanic cones, is nothing but the continuation of the volcanic
+zone in Yezo. The main resource of Etorofu is the fishing.
+Four different kinds of salmon and salmon-trout are found, one
+similar to the salmon common in Yezo, the others somewhat
+differently marked. Salmon is extremely plentiful, and in July
+and August enormous catches are made, especially at the
+mouths of the rivers, where the fish are closely packed
+together.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>
+The Pico Strait, between Etorofu and Kunashiri, is about
+fourteen miles wide, and a strong current from the Okhotsk
+Sea passes through it, causing the sea to break in heavy tide-rips
+and overfalls similar to those observed in the La Perouse
+Strait, between Yezo and Sakhalin. Similar tide-rips are
+observed also in the channel between Etorofu and Urup, but,
+being much wider (about twenty-four miles), they seem there
+less formidable.</p>
+
+<p>Kunashiri is the next largest island in the Kuriles after
+Etorofu. It is about sixty-five miles long, and very narrow;
+varying from three to eight miles in width. The north-east
+portion is somewhat wider, and extremely mountainous. The
+highest peak of this mountain range is the Tcha-Tcha-Nobori
+(the old-old-mountain), which is said to be about seven
+thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. From
+this volcano starts a chain of hills&mdash;some pyramidal in form,
+others somewhat rounder at the top&mdash;which forms the backbone
+of the island. Two more active volcanoes besides the Tcha-Tcha
+are on the south-west portion of Kunashiri, but they do
+not rise to a very great altitude. On Horanaho or Rausu
+volcano sulphur accumulations are found, and at Pontoo (small
+lake) sulphur bubbles out from the lake bottom, and seems to
+be worked with profit. The Tcha-Tcha-Nobori is curiously
+shaped. It is like a large cone cut about half-way up in
+a section, to which a smaller cone has been attached, leaving
+a wide ring right round. It is extremely picturesque, and a
+worthy finish to the strange outline of Kunashiri Island.</p>
+
+<p>Vegetation and products are the same as in Etorofu.
+Salmon is plentiful, and a few fishing-stations are spread out
+here and there at long intervals on the coast. As in Etorofu,
+the population of Kunashiri migrates there from Yezo during
+the fishing season, and leaves the island almost deserted in
+winter. The strait separating it from Yezo is only ten or
+twelve miles wide. Bears and foxes are said to be very
+numerous in all the larger islands of the Kuriles, and seals are
+captured in large quantities during the winter months, more
+especially in the islands nearer Kamschatka. Small game,
+as ducks, snipes, and sandpipers, is abundant. Besides the
+ruggedness and strange aspect of its numerous volcanic peaks,
+the bareness and the loneliness of the coast, there is nothing in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>
+the Kurile group to entice the sightseer and the pleasure-seeker
+to a cruise among the islands. The geologist and
+zoologist, however, would find in the Kuriles a very rough but
+very interesting field for their investigations, and a "good
+shot," who does not mind a self-sacrificing and lonely life,
+would find some good sport among the bears, especially in
+Kunashiri and Etorofu.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 155px;">
+<img src="images/illus-132.jpg" width="155" height="299" alt="WOMAN OF THE KURILE ISLANDS" />
+<span class="caption">WOMAN OF THE KURILE ISLANDS</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;">
+<img src="images/illus-133.jpg" width="239" height="172" alt="ABASHIRI ISLAND" />
+<span class="caption">ABASHIRI ISLAND.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br />
+<span class="small">On the East and North-East Coast&mdash;From Nemuro to Shari-Mombets.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>I did not remain long at Nemuro after my return from the
+Kuriles; in fact, I remained only a few hours, and again my
+baggage was lashed to the pack-saddle, again I was perched
+on the top of this instrument of torture, and soon was rapidly
+moving north towards the inhospitable coast of the Okhotsk
+Sea.</p>
+
+<p>The first few days of the lonely life of a peripatetic Robinson
+Crusoe are unmistakably disagreeable, but after that initiation
+there is no doubt that it is a fascinating life. I was more than
+glad when the gay Nemuro was out of sight, and the noise and
+rumble of semi-civilisation out of hearing. The editor and
+seven gentlemen of Nemuro accompanied me for a few miles&mdash;then
+I was left to myself and my own resources. Crossing
+the Onnetto River, the outlet of a large lagoon of the same
+name, I passed through Nishibets and then Bitskai, where in
+former days the Japanese had established a salmon-canning
+factory, which proved a failure, owing to the incapacity of its
+directors and workmen. Salmon is very abundant in the
+Nishibets River, and a well-managed canning factory would
+be a great success. About ten or eleven miles north of Bitskai
+a peculiar peninsula stretches out from north-east to south-west,
+which affords a shelter for small junks from northerly
+winds. It is called Noshike, and is not more than a few feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>
+above the sea-level. The soil all along is very marshy, and
+the numerous little rivulets and rivers are extremely troublesome
+to cross. My pony was continually sinking into and
+struggling out of mud-holes, into which it had fallen when
+wading across these small watercourses, sometimes not more
+than a few feet wide. I pushed on as far as Shimbets, where
+there are only a shed and a couple of Ainu huts inhabited by
+half-castes. I had to put up here for the night, and by the
+light of a wick burning in a large oyster-shell filled with fish-oil
+I wrote a few notes in my diary. The fleas in that house
+were something appalling. The next morning I had some
+fun with a wild pony, which I received in exchange for the
+tired animal I had brought.</p>
+
+<p>"Nobody can get on him," said the Ainu half-caste, "but if
+you think you can ride him he will go like the wind."</p>
+
+<p>It took all hands in the small village to get the pack-saddle
+and baggage on to his back, and after we had tied him to a
+post and lashed his fore legs together I mounted. By instalments
+he was untied, let loose, and then afforded us some real
+fun. He revolved, bucked, kicked, stood on his hind legs, and
+did his very best to bite my legs and knock me off the saddle.
+A small fence was kicked and smashed into a thousand bits,
+and he even attempted to enter the huts&mdash;anything to get rid
+of his rider; but he did not succeed. His next trick was to
+plunge into the river close by, and when he reached the middle
+to shake himself violently. He then came out on the other
+side, and, turning his head, saw as well as felt that I was still
+on his back; then he neighed as if in great distress, and
+bolted. He galloped along the small track, and really did go
+"like the wind." As a punishment I made him keep up the
+pace even when he was tired of his contumacy, and in less
+than no time I reached Shibets, ten miles distant from where
+I had started.</p>
+
+<p>Shibets is a village of one hundred Japanese houses and
+twenty Ainu huts. The Ainu here have almost altogether
+adopted Japanese clothes, as well as something of the Japanese
+style of living. The river which goes by the same name is
+notable for the quantity and good quality of salmon caught in
+it, and it is the best salmon-fishing river on the north-east
+coast of Yezo. Herrings are also abundant, but not to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+same extent as on the south-east coast. A peculiarity of the
+river is that before entering the sea it turns sharply south and
+runs along a bank of sand and mud, which is growing larger
+every year, which shows that a current from the Okhotsk Sea
+must travel down in that direction through the strait between
+Kunashiri and Yezo. The same peculiarity is noticeable in
+nearly all the rivers of the north-east coast.</p>
+
+<p>From Shibets to Wembets the track is fairly even, but from
+Wembets round Cape Shiretoko it is in many places impassable
+even on foot. The Peninsula, ending in Cape Shiretoko,
+is a mass of high volcanic mountains towards the interior,
+while scabrous cliffs and huge rocks fringe the line of coast.
+However, from Shibets there is a small mountain track inland
+which brings the traveller across to the north-east coast near
+Shari. The track was through beautiful forests of pine trees,
+oak, birch, and elm, and during the first few miles it is on
+almost level ground. After that, hill after hill is ascended and
+descended, and one goes ever onwards at a higher altitude,
+until Rubets, a small shed, is reached. From here the track
+follows a zig-zag direction till it reaches the summit of the
+mountain range, and one then begins to descend on the other
+side. From the summit there is a lovely view of beautiful
+blue mountains in the distant west, one of which is called
+Oakan, and the other Moyokan. The mountainous part of
+the track from Igiani, three miles from Shibets, as far as
+the north-east coast, reminded me much of the scenery in
+Switzerland, with its rapid and limpid fresh-water rivers,
+thickly-wooded country, and green grass, which last was replaced
+here by an undergrowth of scrub bamboo. When I
+went across this mountain pass the rain was pouring in
+torrents, and the road, such as it was, being very slippery and
+heavy, I only reached the north-east coast at dark. The
+moon would not rise till late, there were heavy black clouds,
+and I was more than puzzled how to find my way.</p>
+
+<p>To add to my bad luck, my pony this time was a sorry
+beast, with his back a mass of sores. I was simply drenched
+with the rain that never ceased. Now and then, by the blinding
+flash of lightning, I could see a long stretch of sand and a
+line of sand-hills; I could also see the reeds bending low under
+the squalls, and then everything was darkness again. I was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>
+leading my tired beast, and dragging him along as well
+as I could. Every few yards the wretched creature collapsed,
+and it took a lot of petting, caressing, encouraging and
+beating to make him get up again. I had ridden and
+walked about fourteen hours in the rain, and was nearly
+frozen to death.</p>
+
+<p>Since I had got out of the forest a bitterly cold north wind
+chilled me through and through, and added the last touch to
+my weariness and discomfort. Again the pony fell, and all
+my efforts to make him get up were useless. The storm, if
+anything, seemed to increase in violence, while my own
+strength was decreasing every minute. I lay down by the
+side of the pony, trying to warm myself by his heat, and,
+shivering and rattling my teeth together, I tried to go to
+sleep.</p>
+
+<p>A couple of hours were spent in this way, and when the
+moon rose I could see a little clearer. I climbed with hands
+and feet on to the sand-hills, and I fancied I saw some dark
+spots in the distance. Could they be Shari? First one end
+of my whip, then the other, was reduced into pulp on my
+pony's back, and with a great effort he again stood on all four
+legs. I had to support the wretch all the way, as you would a
+drunken man, and we went at the rate of less than a mile an
+hour. The spots grew bigger and bigger, and took the shape
+of huts.</p>
+
+<p>"Hem, hem, hem, hem!" I called out at the first hut, while
+three or four dogs barked furiously and went for my legs.
+"Will you let a stranger sleep here to-night?"</p>
+
+<p>"This is no house for strangers; go elsewhere!" answered
+a drowsy hoarse voice from inside.</p>
+
+<p>"May you be kept&mdash;hot!" said I, in pure Ainu fashion,
+though in my heart I attached quite a different meaning to
+the sentence from that which the hairy people give it; and
+wearily I pulled myself together and passed on.</p>
+
+<p>A shadow crept out of one of the huts, and thanks to that
+shadow I found a shelter for the night. There are fifty Ainu huts
+at Shari, and ten Japanese, with an Ainu population of about
+one hundred souls. The Ainu here have adopted Japanese
+clothes, and many of them eat Japanese food when they can
+get it. The Ainu women of Shari are exceedingly pretty, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+they do not tattoo the long moustache across their faces, like
+other Ainu. Some of them have a small semicircular tattoo
+on the upper lip, which is not very displeasing to the eye;
+and in some cases is even becoming. The girls have also
+given up tattooing their arms. The men are much taller than
+the Ainu men of other regions, and they seem to be rather ill-natured.
+Japanese blood can be detected in many of them,
+and that may account for it. While the women are prettier,
+the men have repulsive faces, possessing all the characteristics
+of purely criminal types.</p>
+
+<p>One young fellow who sat for me was the very image of
+Robespierre in his worst moments, and an old man who sat
+for me afterwards would, according to Phrenology, prove to
+be a murderer of the first water. This gentleman was a
+troublesome sitter, and excelled in making the most awful
+faces, which were accompanied by sounds imitating those of
+wild beasts. The Shari Ainu build their storehouses with
+cylindrical roofs, similar to those of their brethren on the
+Kutcharo Lake.</p>
+
+<p>After the heavy storm of the previous night the weather
+cleared up for the rest of the day, and the sunset, reflected in
+the limpid waters of the river, was simply magnificent. On
+the other side, sheltered by the sand-hills, were a few Ainu
+huts standing out against the brilliant red and yellow sky, and
+here and there a large fish jumped out of the water, leaving
+circle after circle of concentric rings to break for the moment
+the reflection in the water.</p>
+
+<p>From Shari to Abashiri the road is for some distance
+among trees, mostly fir and spruce, and then the Tobuts Lake
+is reached, half of which is a mere marsh. It is picturesquely
+situated, and I followed its borders for about three miles,
+having the sea on one side, the lake on the other. The track
+was easy and mostly on sand. At the outlet of the lake into
+the sea is the Ainu village of Tobuts, access to which is to be
+had only by boat, as the river is extremely deep, and its
+current very swift.</p>
+
+<p>In the proximity of Tobuts another and smaller lake, the
+Opoto, with its short and winding estuary, is on the left of the
+traveller, while a long way ahead the Abashiri rocks stand
+high on the horizon. A few Ainu huts are scattered along the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>
+coast, and some of them have peculiarly shaped storehouses.
+They are small, built entirely of wood, and roofed with
+shingles. Some have two floors, and in this case, though built
+on piles, the first floor is only a few inches above the ground.
+The "mat" was supplanted by a wooden door at the entrance
+of the storehouse.</p>
+
+<p>The Abashiri cliffs are grand, and from a distance have all
+the appearance of, though they are not in reality, basaltic rocks.
+They are scarred, riven, and fractured in all directions, as if
+by excessive heat. The upper portion of the cliffs is of a
+beautiful grey-whitish colour, blending into yellow and red at
+their warm brown bases. The small cylindrical islet which I
+give in the illustration is on the north side of this cliff, and
+is of the same volcanic formation. It has certain traces of
+sulphur as a further evidence of its origin. Flocks of sea-gulls,
+penguins, and cormorants have chosen this island for their
+abode.</p>
+
+<p>Abashiri is the only place on the north-east coast which may
+eventually be of some importance, as it has a fair anchorage
+for small craft under the lee of the islet and outstretching
+cliff. No other place on the north-east coast possesses such
+an advantage. On the Shiretoko Peninsula sulphur accumulations
+are found at Itashibeoni; but, unfortunately, the want
+of a safe harbour, the ruggedness of the coast, and the lack
+of drinkable water in the vicinity, are all facts which make it
+improbable that it could be worked with profit for some
+years to come. The Ainu at Abashiri are repulsive creatures,
+especially the men, and have more the appearance of wild
+beasts than human beings. Their faces are almost square,
+the mouth large, with narrow lips, the ends of which converge
+towards the ears. The nose is short and stumpy, they have
+very heavy eyebrows, and the eyes are almost lost under
+the shadow of their projecting forehead.</p>
+
+<p>Ponies are scarce and bad along this coast, and the further
+north one goes the more difficult the travelling becomes; the
+huts are rarer; the human beings more uncouth and solitary.
+The north-east coast is a region of swamps, lagoons, and
+quicksand rivers.</p>
+
+<p>Not far inland from Abashiri there is a large lagoon, the
+Abashiri-ko; then, a few miles further north, another as large&mdash;the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+Notoro-ko. The Abashiri Lake finds an outlet in a river
+which goes by the same name of, and falls into the pretty Bay
+of Abashiri; but the Notoro-ko, as well as the larger lagoon
+of Saruma-ko, which one comes upon after having passed the
+two villages of Tukoro and Tobuts, open directly into the sea.
+The strong current and the tide often block the entrance of
+these lagoons, and the rising water finds an outlet in a
+different spot. These lagoons are separated from the sea by a
+long and narrow strip of sand-hill; and crossing the outlet
+always involves great danger if the unwary traveller does not
+choose the right moment. The tide creating a great inequality
+of level between the sea and the lake, it follows that at the
+opening of the lagoon the water either throws itself from the
+sea into the lagoon, or <i>vice versâ</i>, according to the ebb or flow,
+and makes a kind of whirlpool. The Saruma Lake being
+much larger than any of the others, while its mouth is much
+smaller, and underlaid with quicksands, the danger is even
+greater, and the safest way is always to get across in a boat at
+slack water. The Saruma Lake is about fifteen miles in
+length and from two to three miles wide. Its water is salt,
+and large oyster-banks are found in it. It is also a favourite
+resort for seal and mallard. In winter they can be killed in
+great numbers, but in the warmer months they are shy, and
+very difficult to approach. The south-western shore of the lake
+is thickly wooded, and has as a background a long range of
+high mountains with smaller mountains in front of it.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 188px;">
+<img src="images/illus-140.jpg" width="188" height="384" alt="" title="AN AINU BELLE" />
+<span class="caption">AN AINU BELLE.</span></div>
+
+<p>At Tobuts, a small village of a few huts, situated at the
+mouth of the Saruma lagoon, I halted for the night. There
+was a change in my diet that day, and I was entertained, or
+rather I entertained myself, to an oyster supper. They were
+enormous oysters, similar to those found at Akkeshi, but not
+very palatable. However, I was in luck that day, and not only
+did I have this oyster supper, but I actually was the hero of
+a tender little idyll. In this country surprises never come
+alone, and while I was sketching in the twilight to pass away
+the time, a tall slim figure of a girl came out of one of the
+huts. She had slipped her arms out of her robe, leaving the
+latter to hang from the girdle, and her breasts, arms, and
+the lower half of her legs were uncovered. She was pretty
+and quaint with her tattooed arms and a semicircular black<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+spot on her upper lip. She walked a few steps forward, and
+when she saw me she stopped. She looked at me and I
+looked at her. Hers, with
+her soft eyes, was one of
+those looks which a man
+feels right through his body,
+notwithstanding all the self-control
+he may possess.
+There she stood, a graceful
+silhouette, with a bucket
+made of tree-bark in one
+hand and a vine-tree rope
+in the other, her supple
+figure almost motionless,
+and her eyes fixed on me.
+She was the most lovely
+Ainu girl I had ever come
+across, and not nearly so
+hairy as most of them.
+Indeed, in that soft twilight,
+and her wavy long hair
+blown by the fresh breeze,
+she was a perfect dream.</p>
+
+<p>"Wakka!" ("Water!")
+cried an angry old voice
+from inside the hut, interrupting
+the beginning of
+our romance, and she sadly
+went to the brook, filled her
+bucket with water, and took it into the hut. It was only
+a few seconds before she reappeared, and came closer, and
+I finished the sketch somewhat hurriedly.</p>
+
+<p>"Let me see the tattoo on your arm," I asked her, and to
+my surprise the pretty maid took my hand in both her own,
+gave me one of those looks that I shall never forget, and her
+head fell on my shoulder. She clutched my hand tightly, and
+pressed it to her chest, and a force stronger than myself
+brought her and myself to the neighbouring forest. There we
+wandered and wandered till it grew very dark; we sat down,
+we chattered, we made love to each other; then we returned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>
+I would not have mentioned this small episode if her ways of
+flirting had not been so extraordinary and funny. Loving and
+biting went together with her. She could not do the one
+without doing the other. As we sat on a stone in the semi-darkness
+she began by gently biting my fingers, without
+hurting me, as affectionate dogs often do to their masters; she
+then bit my arm, then my shoulder, and when she had worked
+herself up into a passion she put her arms round my neck
+and bit my cheeks. It was undoubtedly a curious way of
+making love, and when I had been bitten all over, and was
+pretty tired of the new sensation, we retired to our respective
+homes.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, as I was writing my diary by the light of
+one of the oyster-shell primitive lamps, somebody noiselessly
+crept by my side. I turned my head round. It was she!
+She grew more and more sentimental as it grew later, and she
+bestowed on me caresses and bites in profusion. Kissing,
+apparently, was an unknown art to her. The old woman, in
+whose house I was, slept soundly all through this, as old
+women generally do on such occasions. By the mysterious
+light of the dying wick, casting heavy shadows, which marked
+her features strongly, with her jet-black wild hair fading away
+into the black background, with her passionate eyes, and her
+round, statue-like arms, the girl was more like a strange fairy
+than a human being.</p>
+
+<p>I sketched her twice in pencil, and the wick&mdash;that wretched
+wick!&mdash;grew feeble, and, for the lack of oil, began to dwindle
+away. I persuaded her to return to her hut, and with a few
+"bites" my hairy maid and I parted.</p>
+
+<p>The morning came, and I was up early. In the vicinity
+of the huts I found three Koro-pok-kuru pits similar to those
+we have already seen; and previous to arriving at Tobuts I
+also found a fort belonging to the pre-Ainu race. From
+Tobuts, continuing my journey north, on the stretch of
+sand between the water of the sea and that of the Saruma
+lake the travelling was fairly easy but monotonous. The
+long chain of mountains on the other side of the lake was
+magnificent in the morning light. For twenty-two miles
+this went on; then I had to cross the Yubets River in the picturesque
+spot where its waters divide before again uniting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+close to the sea. North of this river there are three more
+lagoons&mdash;the Komuki, the Shibumotzunai, and the Yassuchi,
+the first two of which have direct estuaries into the sea,
+generally blocked by drift-sand, and both are as dangerous as
+the Saruma lagoon when the water unexpectedly overflows.
+Owing to the heavy rains on the mountains the level of the
+lakes had risen considerably when I went through, and crossing
+the mouth of the first in a flat-bottomed boat, I was nearly
+swamped. The Ainu who was ferrying me across did not
+lose his presence of mind, and after a long struggle and
+violent efforts we reached the opposite shore. Yubets is a
+village of eighteen Ainu and three Japanese huts. The
+Ainu along these shores are extremely hairy, and some of
+them have red beards, while others are bald. Near some of
+their huts you may see cages where foxes and eagles are kept
+in captivity.</p>
+
+<p>The women, all the way to Soya Cape, the most northern
+point of Yezo, have given up tattooing a long moustache
+and their arms. A small semicircular spot, similar to the
+tattoo of the Shari women, is nevertheless not uncommon.
+Bears, yellow and black, again are said to be in huge
+quantities on the thickly-wooded mountains at the back of
+the Saruma and other lagoons.</p>
+
+<p>The coast is most desolate-looking. One may travel mile
+after mile without seeing a hut or meeting a single human
+being. Now and then, when I came to a lonely fisherman's
+hut, I was civilly treated; and, riding from morn till night, I
+reached Shari Mombets, where there are forty Ainu huts and
+about the same number of Japanese fishermen's shanties. It
+has a small anchorage for small junks only; but, unfortunately,
+it is not well protected, as the reef of rocks which runs in a
+north-east direction does not extend far out to sea. I was
+roughly treated here at first, for some Russian convicts, who
+had escaped from Sakhalin in an open boat, had been drifted
+by the current down this coast, and previously to my arrival
+had landed in the vicinity of this village. They were half
+starved, and could not speak a word of the language. They
+had no money and no clothes, and none of the natives seemed
+willing to help them in any way. Now that the long-wished-for
+freedom was obtained after years of servitude and chains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+the four brave men, who had suffered agonies for days, and
+had almost miraculously escaped death in the treacherous
+currents of the Otkoshk Sea, were certainly not to be
+outwitted by a handful of hard-hearted Japanese or by a
+pack of hairy Ainu. They begged for food and could not
+obtain it, so they stole it, and ill-treated some of the natives
+who interfered. They then disappeared towards the south.
+When I put in an appearance, all alone and almost in rags,
+leading and dragging my tired pony, it is not astonishing
+that the first thing that struck them was that I must be
+another escaped Russian, "or bad man from Krafto,"<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> as the
+Ainu called me.</p>
+
+<p>The reception I received was pretty stormy; but when I
+understood what the matter was which caused the rioting,
+I set their minds at rest, and, speaking in their own
+language, told them that the "bad men of Krafto" were
+my enemies as well as theirs, and that, should I find
+them, I would punish them. Not only that, but, to make
+them perfectly at ease, I gave them some little present of
+money, which turned them at once into friends. As to
+the Russian convicts, there was no possibility of my finding
+them, for they were travelling towards the south from this
+point, and I was moving towards the north, so I was
+perfectly safe in passing myself off as a kind of supreme
+judge.</p>
+
+<p>Shari Mombets is a miserable place. In the house where I
+put up I was received by a young man, but the owner of the
+house did not show himself. The next morning, however, as
+I gave much more money than they expected, the landlord
+was brought to my room to thank me. The poor man
+suffered from elephantiasis&mdash;the wretched disease by which
+the head and all the limbs of the body assume gigantic
+proportions. His head was swollen to more than twice its
+normal size, and had lost its shape; his body was piteously
+deformed and inflated, his eyes nearly buried in flesh. The
+weight of his head was such that the cervical vertebræ were
+scarcely strong enough to support it erect; and when he
+bowed down in Japanese fashion to thank me and bid me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>
+good-bye, I had to run to his help, for he could not get
+up again. Poor man! And when we reflect that in more
+civilised countries many people think themselves very ill and
+suffering when they have a pimple on their nose, or a cold in
+their head!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<img src="images/illus-144.jpg" width="371" height="156" alt="SARUMA LAGOON" />
+<span class="caption">SARUMA LAGOON.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;">
+<img src="images/illus-145.jpg" width="357" height="418" alt="AN EAGLE-DISPLAYED SABLE" />
+<span class="caption">AN EAGLE-DISPLAYED SABLE.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br />
+<span class="small">Along the Lagoons of the North-east Coast&mdash;From Shari Mombets to
+Poronai.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>I proceeded north. The Ainu scattered here and there on
+the coast seemed to be hairier and uglier than any of their
+inland brethren. Two or three women had already put on
+their winter fur garments, as the cold weather had begun; and
+they looked extremely picturesque in them. Most of the
+huts were uninhabited, and had been abandoned by their
+owners. The sky was whitish and cold, and here and there
+along the beach some huge bones of whales had been washed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>
+on shore by the tide. Some distance off an outcast horse was
+attacked by thousands of famished crows. It is not an
+uncommon occurrence in Yezo. The black scavengers generally
+attack very young animals, and, flying on the pony's
+head, peck out its eyes. The pony, frightened, and driven
+mad by pain, bolts, and in his blind and reckless race either
+falls down a precipice and is killed outright, or else is driven
+to the coast by these daring wretches, which continue to peck
+at him with cruel and ceaseless avidity. There, with its way
+barred by the waves, tortured to death, and neighing
+desperately, the helpless beast succumbs, and affords the
+hungry birds a good meal, while hundreds gathered thick on
+the body, peck the poor brute to death. Thousands of others
+sit screaming in long rows round the scene of the fight,
+attentively watching for the final result, when they too can
+join in, and experience the joys of sated hunger. Nature can
+indeed be cruel.</p>
+
+<p>I stopped at a hut. My host was decidedly peculiar. For
+convenience we shall call him Omangus, which only means a
+"gone man," or a lunatic. I had heard of him further south,
+and I was anxious to make his acquaintance. I had not been
+five minutes in his hut before I perceived that he really was a
+lunatic. His head was of an abnormally large size; his skull
+was well developed at the back, with those prominent bumps
+behind the ears which show great love of eating. His
+forehead was high, and very slanting; the upper part was
+wider than near the eyebrows, which were so thick and bushy
+as nearly to cover the eyes. His nose, with its large nostrils,
+was stumpy and covered with hair, while his enormous
+projecting eyes were restless and fierce. His luxuriant
+moustache and beard matched the thick crop of long black
+hair which covered his whole body. His legs were short,
+wiry, with stiff and swollen joints, probably owing to rheumatism.
+His arms were very long, and his toes were also
+abnormally long. Altogether he had the appearance of a
+large orang-outang more than that of a human being. All
+his movements resembled those of a wild beast, and now
+and then, when pleased or dissatisfied, he would groan in
+a way not dissimilar to the growling of a bear. In fact, he
+was labouring under the belief that he was a wild beast of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>
+some sort, and apparently he regarded himself as a "bruin."
+I never heard him speak or utter words, but whether he was
+actually dumb or not I was not able to ascertain, as every
+time I tried to examine his mouth he attempted to bite
+me. His biting, however, was of a different nature from that
+of the sweet girl on the Saruma shores, and when he did bite
+he bit well. One day in a struggle I came off nearly minus
+two joints of the third finger of my right hand.</p>
+
+<p>I several times attempted to take measurements of his
+skull and bones, but with no success. Once, as I had got
+hold of him and was feeling the "bumps" on his skull, he
+managed to disentangle himself, and grabbed me by the hair,
+which led to a conflict, and caused me a "très mauvais quart
+d'heure." We fought desperately, and I was thoroughly
+"licked"; not, however, before having found out that he had
+no bump of sensitiveness and none of philoprogenitiveness.
+He was pleased with his victory, and the hostilities ended.
+He hopped away cautiously, and I saw him climb on his
+hands and feet over the cliff near his hut, where he
+disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Some hours later I saw the monomaniac stealthily creeping
+back among the rocks. I was some way from the hut, in a
+place where he could not see me. He came slowly forward,
+watching the hut suspiciously, as he evidently thought I was
+still inside. When he got near he stopped to pick up a
+large stone, and with it in his right hand he sneaked along
+towards the hut. He listened, and crept in. I followed
+immediately after. He was furious when I entered, and tried
+to escape, but I barred his way. He retreated into a corner,
+crouched down groaning, and showed signs of impatience.
+I could see that he was frightened, and I went to him and
+endeavoured to soothe him; not without success, for he
+became quieter, and I once more noticed the great power that
+a stronger will can exercise over a weaker one. As long as
+I was staring at him he never dared to move, and I could
+"will" him to do almost anything I wanted by thinking hard
+that he should do it; but when once I turned my eyes away
+I had no more control over him.</p>
+
+<p>This is just what happened that day. Thinking that he
+would keep quiet for some minutes, I got out my palette and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>
+brushes in order to take his likeness. I had till then relied on
+my power of "willing" people, when my host, seizing the
+opportunity of my turning my head away for one moment,
+grabbed the stone which he had picked up, and threw it with
+great force at me. I was hit in the ribs, and was hurt sufficiently
+to lose my temper. I went for him, and gave him a
+sound thrashing, which sometimes has more effect than all the
+"willing" in the world. He became docile after that, and I
+took him outside and forced him to squat down.</p>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 510px;">
+<img src="images/illus-148.jpg" width="510" height="600" alt="MY HOST, THE MADMAN" />
+<span class="caption">MY HOST, THE MADMAN.</span></div>
+
+<p>He was restless while I was painting him, and hundreds of
+half-starved crows, which seemed to be on good terms with
+my sitter, gathered round him, chatting in their incomprehensible
+and noisy language. Some of them even flew on to
+his back and shoulders, and he touched them without their
+flying away.</p>
+
+<p>I was astounded at the familiarity which existed between
+the madman and the birds. They seemed to understand each
+other, and had I only been sufficiently imaginative I might have
+asserted that I even saw them kissing him. Unfortunately,
+when the first astonishment was over I understood the reason
+of the affection on the part of the scavengers, and the whole
+mystery was unveiled to me. Like all mysteries, the apparently
+extraordinary friendship between the madman and the
+black birds turned out to be a plain bit of literal prose, and, I
+must add, a very disgusting bit. The maniac was covered with
+vermin, and the affectionate kisses of the crows were not
+kisses of love or sympathy, but only mouthfuls of parasites,
+which they found among the thick hair of his body.</p>
+
+<p>Two or three times the maniac crawled up to me, and
+seemed anxious to touch the colours on my palette, and also
+to put his fingers on the sketch. He saw that he gained
+nothing by being a foe, so he became a friend. He even
+became a great friend when I presented him with a shiny
+silver coin.</p>
+
+<p>Though Omangus was undoubtedly insane, he was a very
+practical person. As will be seen by the illustration, his attire
+was simple, and no allowance was made for pockets. He
+looked at the coin, turned it over in his hands several times,
+and grinned; then he placed it in his mouth for safe keeping.
+His mouth was apparently his purse. As I saw that he was
+fond of silver coins, I gave him one or two more, and all of
+them were religiously kept in the same natural pocket, except
+at night, when he hid them under a large stone. At sunrise
+they were collected again and placed back under his
+tongue or in one of his cheeks.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot say that my host was by any means brilliant, but,
+like most lunatics, he was a good soul apart from his little
+peculiarities. It was unfortunate that he had lost the power
+of speech, or I might have learnt some strange things from him.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>
+Omangus was generally restless at night, and while asleep
+he seemed to suffer from awful nightmares. Most Ainu as
+a rule do not. One morning at dawn, as the first rays of
+light penetrated the hut, I watched him. He had been
+groaning frightfully all night, and I had not been able to
+sleep. He was lying flat on his back breathing heavily, and
+now and then he had a kind of spasm, during which he
+ground his teeth together with violence. It was during these
+spasms, or nervous contractions, that he groaned most fiercely.
+As he was so stretched I noticed how extraordinarily long his
+femur was compared to his tibia. I gently placed my hand
+over his heart, and found it was beating rapidly and irregularly.
+His forehead also was feverish and abnormally warm. He did
+not wake up, but as soon as the nervous strain was over he fell
+into a lethargic state. He appeared to have lost all strength,
+and it took me some time to awake him; but he finally opened
+his eyes, and, drowsily getting up, yawned to his heart's
+content, and went to fetch the hidden coins.</p>
+
+<p>The more I saw of Omangus, the more he puzzled me.
+His faculties were defective; still, he seemed to possess a
+fairly good memory. If not, how could he remember the
+concealed treasure? Although he was not able to form ideas
+of his own, he could retain those which he had grasped. His
+hearing was extremely acute, and his inability to speak must
+have undoubtedly been caused by paralysis of the tongue
+and vocal organs. Several times he made violent attempts to
+utter words, which he would not have done had he been
+born dumb.</p>
+
+<p>After the second day of my pleasant stay in Omangus' ten
+feet square sea-side residence my host became more genial
+and even affectionate. Instead of constantly running away
+from me he sat opposite me, attentively watching all my movements;
+and if I happened to be whistling, he slowly crept
+nearer, grinning with delight. Occasionally he crouched himself
+by my side, even resting against me. I did not approve
+of the latter proof of affection, not so much for his own sake
+as on account of the "large company" which he carried with
+him; but I had to put up with it until I found a counter-action
+in loud singing, which frightened him away.</p>
+
+<p>Omangus had a quantity of last year's salmon, which he had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>
+dried in the sun, and which was now hanging from the roof of
+the little hut. The first day or two of my stay there I had
+but little to eat, owing to his belligerent behaviour. He
+rebelled every time that I attempted to touch his provisions,
+and what I had to eat was generally appropriated while my
+host was out. Afterwards, however, he became generous, and
+gave me more than I wanted. He took good care to draw
+the three coins out of his mouth while he was eating, but
+once, during a nervous fit, to which he was often subject,
+he swallowed one of them.</p>
+
+<p>One morning, weary of my lunatic friend's company, I
+packed all my traps and went to fetch my pony. Omangus
+seemed aghast, suspecting that I was about to leave. He
+was restless, and followed me, moaning, from the hut to the
+pony and back, and, with a forlorn look in his eyes, watched
+me bring the baggage outside and lash it to the pack-saddle.
+I gave him a couple more silver coins, which I thought would
+make him happy; but he dropped them in the sand. I bade
+good-bye to him and left; and there poor Omangus stood
+motionless, gazing at me until the winding shore took me
+round the cliff. He was out of sight for some minutes, but he
+soon reappeared on the summit of the cliff itself, on to which
+he rapidly climbed, and from this point of vantage he could
+see the coast for several miles. There standing, a black
+figure against the rising sun, the hairy Ainu became smaller
+and smaller as I moved away from him, until nothing but a
+black spot could be seen against the sky; then even that spot
+disappeared. It was the last I saw of my host the madman.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers were troublesome all along this part of my
+journey, and as most of them had quicksands, the safest plan
+was to cross them in a boat, when this was obtainable. However,
+as I went further north the boats became scarce and
+more scarce, and the small villages, few and very far between.
+I seldom came across a human being with whom I could
+exchange a word, and the constant solitude induced in me the
+bad habit of talking to myself, to animals, or to inanimate
+objects. My unfortunate pony was often lectured on different
+subjects, and the millions of seagulls and penguins all along
+the coast were asked questions of all sorts, which, however,
+they invariably left unanswered. It was strange to see the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>
+myriads of birds stretched in two or three lines along the
+shore. Like the "beasts which roamed over the plains" in
+Alexander Selkirk's lament, they had seen so few human
+beings as to be indifferent to me and my pony, and I could
+walk among them without disturbing them or causing them to
+fly away. The penguins were my greatest source of amusement,
+with their fat bodies and their funny way of lifting up
+one leg as I was approaching, in order to get enough spring
+to raise themselves from the ground had I attempted to
+capture them. I was soliloquising, according to my then
+custom, while watching these droll birds, when not more
+than two hundred yards ahead I saw two large eagles. One
+of them was perched on a low cliff, the other was flying about,
+now and then returning near to its mate. I dismounted, with
+my revolver in my hand; I had a pocketful of cartridges. I
+crept stealthily from rock to rock, keeping well out of their
+sight until I came close to the pinnacled rock on which they
+stood. I was then about fifty yards from them, and it was
+useless my firing at such a distance with a revolver. I peeped
+over the rocks, and one of them saw me and flew away, while
+the other remained where it was, stretching its neck in my
+direction. Its piercing eyes were fixed full on me as I was
+approaching; it understood that danger was imminent, and it
+seemed ready to resist the attack. I drew nearer and nearer,
+and when about four yards away I fired two shots, both of
+which went through its breast, and the eagle, with its widespread
+wings, fell from its lofty pinnacle and came down
+heavily on its back.</p>
+
+<p>In its last convulsions it made desperate efforts to clutch
+me with its long sharp claws; but a couple more shots
+finished it. The male bird, which meanwhile had been describing
+circles high up in the sky over my head, plunged down
+on me with incredible velocity. I emptied the last chamber of
+my revolver into him, just as the wind of his large wings made
+my eyes twinkle; and to evade the grip of his outstretched
+claws I had to cover my face with my left arm. The report
+stunned him, and flapping his wings, he rose again, to resume
+his circling over my head, leaving a few of his feathers floating
+in the air. I reloaded quickly, and each time he attacked me
+he was received with a volley. Another bullet went through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+his wing, and his flying became unsteady; he flew on to a distant
+cliff, and there he remained. I seized this opportunity of
+carrying the dead bird away and lash it on to my saddle; but
+while I was so engaged the male eagle flew back to the pinnacle
+where I had first seen the two together, and stretching
+his enormous wings to their full width, screamed as if in despair.
+On the pinnacle was their nest and young, and that was
+why the female had kept watch and ward over her eyrie, and
+also why she had not abandoned it even when I approached.</p>
+
+<p>I mounted my pony and away I rode with my prey. The
+male bird followed me for miles and miles, and now and then
+I had to fire to keep him at a respectful distance. Ultimately
+he left me, and my delight was immense when, instead of
+seeing him over my head, ready to plunge on me at any
+moment, I saw him disappear behind the cliff, flying rapidly
+but unsteadily back to his eyrie.</p>
+
+<p>As I now made sure that he had no intention of pursuing
+me any longer, I dismounted, and proceeded to skin the eagle
+I had shot. It was decidedly a magnificent specimen. It
+measured seven feet from tip to tip of wings, and its claws
+were nearly as large as a child's hand. The semicircular
+nails measured two inches, and were extremely pointed, which
+fact made me feel very thankful that I had just escaped the
+grip of its male companion. The beak was enormous, of a
+rich yellow colour, the upper mandible overlapping the lower.
+The feathers were black all over, with the exception of the
+tail, which was white. I believe that this kind of eagle is
+generally called the "black sea-eagle," and is found in
+Kamschatka, Yezo, and also along the Siberian coast of the
+Japan Sea and Gulf of Tartary.</p>
+
+<p>I found a sheltered spot, and with my large Ainu knife
+proceeded to dissect the bird. Each minute seemed as long
+as hours, for I feared the male bird might reappear on the
+scene as I was thus occupied in stripping the skin from the
+carcass of his beloved helpmate. There is no knowing
+what effect anatomical researches might have on a Yezo eagle.
+My heart bounded with joy when the operation was successfully
+completed, and I went to wash my hands in the sea. I came
+back to the bird, or rather its skin, and I was indeed proud of
+my work, when a horrid idea struck me. How was I to get<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>
+the skin dried? I should be moving day after day, and it
+would not be possible to pack it in that condition among
+my sketches; I had no arsenical soap, and unless I dried it
+in the sun it would certainly rot, and get spoiled.</p>
+
+<p>I resorted to a trick. I fastened two sticks crossways, and
+having stuck one up the eagle's neck, I fastened the two
+opened wings to the two side branches of the cross. The skin
+was thus kept well opened, and with two additional strings, one
+at each wing, the frame was fastened on to my back, the
+feathered side against my coat, while the inside was exposed
+to the sun and the wind. In wading a river I saw my own
+image reflected in the water, and I must confess the appearance
+was strange. A few hours after a group of Ainu were able to
+certify to this. I was riding slowly along the shore, when I
+saw a few of them not very far ahead. Two men were the
+first to notice me, and they seemed terror-stricken. As I
+approached they stood still for a minute, shading their eyes
+with their hands so as to make out what kind of winged
+animal it was they saw riding on horseback. When they
+discovered that the black wings were on a human being, the
+two brave Ainu fled, crying out, "<i>Wooi, wooi!</i>" the hairy
+people's cry of distress.</p>
+
+<p>As I got nearer the village, dozens of wild dogs came to
+meet me, and, barking furiously, followed my pony, while the
+few inhabitants, frightened out of their wits at such an unusual
+sight, hid themselves inside their huts. Two or three hurriedly
+launched their "dug-outs" and put out to sea. When I passed
+the first hut some large salmon were thrown at me from inside,
+probably with the idea that I might satisfy my appetite on
+them, and spare the lives of the trembling donors. Food was
+not over-plentiful along that coast, so I dismounted and picked
+up the provisions so munificently provided by the scared
+natives. I tied them on each side of my pack-saddle, not sorry
+to be thus saved from the danger of dying of starvation&mdash;at
+least for the next two or three days.</p>
+
+<p>As I was so occupied, a little child about four years old,
+evading the vigilance of his parents, ran out of one of the huts.
+I took him in my arms; whereat he cried bitterly, and when
+the people inside heard it there were screams of indignation
+and despair.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>
+Maternal love is occasionally strong even among Ainu
+women, and while I tried hard to quiet the shrieking baby,
+his mother, as pale as the dirt on her face allowed her to be,
+came out trembling, and, offering me another large salmon,
+begged me to accept it in exchange for her child, who, she
+said, was not good to eat! It is needless to say that I was
+magnanimous enough to accept her offer, and thereupon
+handed the child over to his mother, who fled with him
+back into the hut. Then I took off my wings and went in
+after her, explaining to the frightened natives what I really
+was. It took them some minutes, however, to overcome their
+first impression, and then the men were pretty hard on the
+women for having given all the salmon away. The same
+scene was more or less vividly repeated when I came across
+any other natives during all the time that I wore the eagle-skin
+on my back. I have related this small anecdote, as, a
+few years hence, when some worthy missionary or imaginative
+traveller visits that barren coast of Yezo, it is not improbable
+that he may hear of some additional Ainu legend, which, the
+good missionaries will say, proves that the Ainu are fully
+aware of the existence of heaven and hell.</p>
+
+<p>"A heathen child," the legend will very likely run, "whose
+parents had not embraced our Christian faith, was one day
+plainly seen by his mother in the arms of a black-winged
+devil. The devil was seen by many, and he came from the
+lower regions on an unknown animal with huge side paunches,
+in which he kept the heathen children he had eaten. The
+mother, who, through her wickedness, saw herself deprived of
+her child, gave offerings to the gods, some through the eastern
+window for the sun-god, and some through the door for the
+other gods. The offerings were accepted, but none of the
+gods came to her help, and the child was nearly lost. Her
+guiding star appeared to her in that supreme moment, and
+inspired her to reach down from the roof the largest salmon
+in store. She walked out of the hut and offered it to another
+god, whom she knew not before. Instantly the child was
+restored to his mother. (That the god took the salmon
+would probably be omitted in the legend.) The black-winged
+demon vanished, and the hut was visited by a white being
+(freely translated, "the guardian angel"), with a halo (my<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+white terai hat) round his head. He rewarded them, and
+from that day the family has been happy in the faith which
+they learned in such a miraculous manner."</p>
+
+<p>"Does not this legend speak for itself?" the good
+missionaries will tell us. "Does it not show that the savage
+Ainu are Christians without knowing it?"</p>
+
+<p>I have given these two versions of the same story, as they
+show the reader how easy it is to garble accounts and misrepresent
+facts. It is a good illustration of what I say in my
+chapter on the Ainu beliefs and superstitions, and I must be
+forgiven if I have ventured to make fun of the missionaries.
+It is not because I dislike them, for I gladly admit that some
+of them out in the East have done good work; but, unfortunately,
+most of them will not take an open-minded view of
+facts. They are so wrapped up in their good work of converting
+people to Christianity that, outside of that, they
+occasionally have a tendency to tinge with their own preconceived
+ideas, facts which to a less biased mind appear simple
+enough.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 364px;">
+<img src="images/illus-157.jpg" width="364" height="217" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SARUBUTS, SHOWING RIVER-COURSE ALTERED BY DRIFT SAND.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br />
+<span class="small">On the North-East Coast&mdash;From Poronai to Cape Soya.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>It was late in the evening when I arrived at Poronai.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> Saruru,
+the last village I had passed, had only six Ainu and three
+Japanese huts, and the nine or ten miles between there and
+this place were most uninteresting. I was taken across one of
+the quicksand rivers in the ferry by a lovely Ainu girl of about
+twelve years of age. I have never seen a more picturesque
+being than she was. She was partly dressed in skins, but half
+her chest was bare; her wildly-curled black hair fell over her
+shoulders, and while gracefully paddling across the ferry she
+occasionally threw back her head, thus shaking back the hair
+that the wind had blown over her eyes.</p>
+
+<p>I have often noticed how supple the children of savages are,
+and how like in ease and grace and unconscious rhythm their
+movements are to those of wild animals. Sometimes, to be
+sure, they have the jerky, quick, and ungraceful movements of
+monkeys, but as a rule their actions are unconsciously graceful.
+Of course, with our children such unconscious grace is rare at
+any time, even when found at all, as from the day when they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>
+are born we train them to artificiality of all kinds, and this
+artificiality becomes in a sense second nature, overlaying, if
+not destroying, the original impress. And yet that impress
+is probably not wholly destroyed, for, so far as my own
+experience goes, I, who had from my birth led a civilised life,
+now that I had been for some months among barbarians had
+so little conventionality left in me as to be quite happy, or
+even happier than before, in leading a perfectly uncivilised
+existence. In the absence of chairs and sofas, instinct and
+the example of the natives taught me to squat as they did,
+and when I had once got into the way of it I found the
+position much more restful than any of our European so-called
+comfortable ways of sitting. It was the same thing
+when I had to sleep, either in the open air or in Ainu huts,
+where there was no more bedding than sofas or easy chairs.
+To protect myself from the cold I almost invariably slept
+sitting on the ground, with my head resting on my knees, just
+like the apes in the Zoological Gardens. I am sure that a
+good many of my readers, who have never gone through such
+an experience, will put me down as a "crank;" others will
+say that I am a worthy companion of my friend the hairy
+lunatic, and the most charitable will think that, bearing the
+name of "Savage Landor," I am only indulging in a new
+edition of "Imaginary Conversations," without the literary
+merits of the old. Such is not the case. I have mentioned
+these facts, not to amuse the reader, or merely for the sake of
+paradox, but to show how shallow is the veneer of civilisation
+which we are apt to think so thorough, and how a very
+short time spent unaccompanied by men of one's own
+stamp, and alone with "nature," rubs the whole thing away,
+and brings us back to instinct rather than education. I
+am willing to admit that not many people would care to
+follow in my footsteps, and live as I lived for months
+among the Ainu in order to prove whether I am right or
+wrong. Many who have only sat in comfortable chairs or
+slept in soft beds will hardly think my statements credible;
+but as the experiences, besides being of great amusement,
+were of great interest to me, I shall pass them on to my
+readers, no matter what opinion they may form of him who
+has written them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>
+Another quality, merely instinctive, which I developed in
+my lonesome peregrinations was the power of accurate tracking.
+Most people are astonished at the wonderful tales told of the
+tracking abilities of the Australian black fellows, and of
+savages in general; but few ever think that if when young
+they had led the same life as these savages they would be as
+good trackers as the best. As there were absolutely no roads,
+and I travelled with no guide, servant, or companion, the
+power of discovering traces became invaluable to me. It was
+instinctive in me, developed rather than acquired, and therefore
+I mention it in connection with the other facts relating to
+animal and human instincts. Furthermore, I may assert that,
+until I was thus compelled to make use of that faculty, I was
+not aware that I possessed it.</p>
+
+<p>We find that horses, bears, and most animals are good
+trackers. Dogs, the nearest in intelligence to men, are better
+than any other quadruped. Then come savages, who are
+the masters of tracking among human beings; but as we
+rise in the scale of civilisation we find that this faculty of
+following a slightly indicated track hardly exists. Does,
+then, intellectual education destroy our instincts instead of
+improving them?</p>
+
+<p>Tracking on sandy or tufaceous ground is an easy matter,
+as of course the foot leaves a well-marked print; but where
+I found real difficulty was over rocky ground, until I got used
+to it, and knew all the signs and what I had to look for. However,
+with a little practice, even over rocks which the sea has
+washed, it is not impossible to know if such and such creatures,
+human or animal, have passed that way.</p>
+
+<p>One of the first things in tracking is to look for marks
+where they are likely to be; and this is just where the instinct
+comes in. Next to this, a clear knowledge of the person's or
+animal's way of walking and general habits is necessary. For
+instance, when I tried to discern tracks of Ainu, I invariably
+looked for them along the sea-shore, and failing that, on the
+adjoining cliffs, as I well knew that if any Ainu had passed by
+there he would have kept either along the coast or not far
+from it. By examination it is easy to see if the ground has
+been in any way disturbed of late. Sometimes a small stone
+moved from the place where it had been for years shows a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+difference in colour where it has been affected by the weather
+and where not, thus giving a distinct clue of some passer-by,
+man or brute; and when once you have found what the
+characteristics of the tracks are, the most difficult part of the
+task is accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>On weather-beaten rocks the trail is more difficult to strike,
+and more difficult still on rocks over which the sea washes.
+"For," say the simple people, "how can you see tracks on
+hard stone? The foot certainly does not leave a print on
+rocks as on sand; and even supposing that the feet were
+dirty, the sea would wash away the marks, and you could
+not see anything."</p>
+
+<p>In my case I limited my search to bare-footed marks, as the
+Ainu generally go bare-footed. Everybody knows that dogs
+track by scent, and this is a sure proof that every footmark
+must have a certain special odour, however infinitesimal. When
+we remember that the act of walking makes the feet warm and
+perspire, it is easy to understand that this perspiration, which
+is a greasy substance, leaves a mark on the stone&mdash;though to
+be sure it is sometimes almost imperceptible, especially when
+quite fresh. But most of us, when children at school, have
+noticed that touching a slate with moist fingers leaves a
+greasy mark, which could not be rubbed off again. The same
+thing happens when we tread on stones with bare feet. If the
+sea washes over the stones after the greasy impression has
+been thus made on them, it does nothing but accentuate these
+marks, and show them more plainly, as the salt water acts in
+one way on the untouched parts of the stone, but in a different
+way where the grease has been absorbed. These marks are
+generally very faint, and it requires some training before they
+can be discerned; but when the knack is once acquired,
+they become evident enough. To an observant eye, and
+with a little practice, it is not difficult to perceive whether
+one or more persons have tramped on a given place, and
+in what direction they have travelled. The marks on stones
+which are washed over by the sea are usually of a lightish
+colour.</p>
+
+<p>I could almost invariably distinguish the footmarks of an
+Ainu from those of a Japanese, as the Ainu take longer
+strides, and their toes are longer than those of the Japanese.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>
+Moreover, with the latter, when walking the greater pressure
+is forward under the foot, and their toes are turned in;
+while in Ainu footprints the whole foot rests on the ground,
+and they keep it perfectly straight, moving the two feet
+parallel to each other.</p>
+
+<p>I have given these few points on tracking, as it will explain
+to the reader how I was able to find my way from one village
+to another miles apart, to steer for huts where I had never
+been, and to overcome great difficulties, which I could not
+have surmounted if I had not learnt the art of tracking, and
+so far developed my natural powers. My ponies were also to
+a great extent my teachers; and by a close examination of
+their instinct I learned that I myself possessed it, and improved
+on it.</p>
+
+<p>Between Sawaki, or Fujima, and Poronai there is a beautiful
+forest of oak and hard-wood trees on the hills and firs on
+the higher mountains, while the shore above the sea-wash is
+covered with thick scrub-bamboo, which reaches a height of
+about ten feet.</p>
+
+<p>On the sandy beach, besides a large number of whales'
+bones, there is any amount of driftwood.</p>
+
+<p>At Poronai, which consisted of only eight huts, the
+Ainu had adopted an architecture for their storehouses
+different to that of other tribes. The walls and the roof
+were made partly of wood, partly of the bark of trees.
+Heavy stones were placed on the roof to prevent it from
+being blown away during the strong gales so frequent along
+that coast.</p>
+
+<p>The natives described the winter weather as very severe,
+especially during northerly winds, and they told me that some
+years the sea all along the coast is frozen for some eight or ten
+miles out, besides the drift-ice which sets in from the north
+and works its way along the coast as far as Cape Nossyap, in
+the neighbourhood of Nemuro. At the beginning of the
+winter this ice, probably drifted across from Sakhalin by the
+strong current in the La Perouse Strait, sets in from the north
+and works down all along the north-east coast of Yezo, filling
+up all indentations in the coast-line, and forming a solid mass
+on the surface of the water.</p>
+
+<p>Seals are very plentiful on these shores as far as Abashiri,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+but the greatest number are found on the Saruma lagoon. In
+winter it is not difficult to come within reach of them, but even
+in September I saw many of them. They were, however, very
+shy, and when they caught sight of me instantly disappeared
+under water.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles from Poronai I came to a headland, and about
+one mile from it lay the small island of Chuskin.</p>
+
+<p>The coast again, instead of being sandy, showed traces of
+its volcanic formation, forming beautiful cliffs and a rugged
+outline, rising in terraces at places, or cliffs of clay and gravel
+sediments, with reefs extending far out to sea, while below
+them stretched a beach of coarse sand or pebbles, strewn with
+enormous volcanic boulders. These terraces are wooded
+mostly with alder, Yezo fir, and beech.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after crossing the Porobets River I came across the
+wreck of a sailing ship, which lay flat on the shore disabled
+and dismasted; and at last I reached Esashi. There I again
+noticed a curious fact, which may be of some interest to
+anthropologists; namely, that Yezo is mostly formed of
+Tertiaries and volcanic rocks, and that the Ainu are mostly
+to be found in regions of Cainozoic or Tertiary formation.
+In volcanic districts they are very scarce. This is curious,
+for it is a well-known fact that the typical life-form of
+Tertiaries is anthropoid apes, and it is a remarkable coincidence
+that we should find ape-like men populating the
+same strata.</p>
+
+<p>From Esashi the coast is extremely rough and rocky for
+about eight miles. I had to take my famished pony up and
+down steep mountains rising directly from the sea in places
+where the beach was impassable. Owing to the lack of grass
+my wretched beast had but little to eat; and what with the
+danger of riding, and the miserable condition my pony was
+in, I had to walk most of the way and lead him. Shanoi,
+about thirteen miles further, came in sight&mdash;a group of
+wretched fishermen's huts; and from here the coast was
+somewhat better. The scenery all along is beautiful,
+especially looking back towards the Shanoi Mountains. I
+saw one or two abandoned huts blown down by the wind,
+but no people.</p>
+
+<p>Near Shanoi the eruptive rocks and granitic cliffs suddenly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>
+come to an end, as well as the mountainous character of the
+country, and for fifteen miles, till one comes to Sarubuts, the
+country is pretty flat and swampy, with a thick vegetation
+inland of spruce trees. There is a small lagoon formed by
+the Tombets River, and which often has its mouth blocked
+by the quicksands, which cause it to overflow.</p>
+
+<p>I left Sarubuts in pouring rain, following the trail along the
+beach. The river forms a long narrow lake similar to that
+of Tombets, and at the back of it are terraces and high
+lands, but no very high mountains. Another wreck of a large
+boat lay in fragments on the sand, and after fifteen miles of
+very uninteresting scenery I arrived at Chietomamai, a group
+of four or five fishermen's huts. Here again the coast was
+rough, but my pony did not sink in the sand as it did on
+leaving Sarubuts, but it stumbled among large pebbles and
+stones as pointed as needles. Further on were grey and
+brown steep cliffs, which were extremely picturesque. The
+Mezozoic nature of this coast shows more distinctly between
+Chietomamai and Soya Cape, and a large rock emerging from
+the sea is both peculiar and picturesque with its numerous
+square sections. It is from this point that one gets the first
+view of Soya Cape. Going round a bay one passes a few
+fishermen's houses, and on the cliffs above them has been
+erected the Siliusi lighthouse. I cleared the Cape and rounded
+the bay on the other side, where I saw another wreck of a
+sailing ship dashed upon the rocks, making the scene a sad
+one. I still went on, and went round two or three smaller
+headlands, when the melancholy sight of a fourth wreck stood
+before me. This last ship had her stern out of the water, and
+a Turkish name was painted on it. Her appearance also was
+Turkish, and I was more than once puzzled as to what a
+Turkish ship could have been doing in the La Perouse Strait.
+Many months afterwards, on my return to Yokohama, but too
+late to be of any help to them, the sad story of the survivors
+of that ship was revealed to me. The mission of the ship in
+those far-off seas was a mysterious one. No one ever knew
+exactly whence she came, or whither she was bound. No one
+ever learned whether she had been disabled in a typhoon in
+the Chinese Sea, and had been drifted so far north by the
+strong currents, or whether the careless Turkish master had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>
+mistaken his course and had met his fate in the dangerous
+currents of La Perouse Strait. Only four of the crew survived.
+There they were on that deserted coast, with no
+clothes, no food, no money; but the few natives treated them
+kindly. Two of them wore "<i>Tarbouches</i>" (red caps), the only
+things they had saved from the wreck. The natives on the
+north-west coast told me of these men who were tramping
+their way south, unable to make themselves understood, continually
+asking for "<i>Sekhara</i>," or "<i>Sakhara</i>," which, I believe,
+in the Turkish language means tobacco or cigarettes. After
+months of privations, half starved, and worn out with fatigue,
+they reached Hakodate, where, having no passport, and not
+being able to explain themselves, they were duly arrested
+and sent down to Yokohama. Unfortunately for them,
+at that time the "Entogroul," a Turkish man-of-war, had
+come to Japan, a voyage which took her two years, to
+bring some decorations which the Sultan had bestowed on
+the Mikado. Osman Pasha, the Admiral, had the poor
+devils brought before him, and they told him their sad story,
+what they had suffered, and how they had lost their ship.
+The story was too true to be believed, or too strange to
+sound true!</p>
+
+<p>"Impostors!" said Osman Pasha, and declining to listen
+any more to their tale of woe, which he called "pure lies,"
+had them "put in irons," in which condition they were to be
+taken back to Constantinople. None of the foreign residents
+in Japan believed the story of these wretches, and all
+were glad to see the miscreants punished. "Impossible,"
+said everybody, "that a Turkish ship should have been up
+there!"</p>
+
+<p>As it so happened, the "Entogroul," on her return trip
+to Constantinople, was herself caught in a typhoon, and,
+steaming full speed to resist the force of the wind and the
+waves, her boilers burst, and Osman Pasha and nearly all
+hands on board were blown to pieces or drowned. If I
+remember right, over three hundred and sixty lives were
+lost, and no doubt the four men, whose prison, I was told,
+was near the boilers, thus found a tragic end to their life
+of misery.</p>
+
+<p>When I arrived at Yokohama all this had already happened,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>
+and my evidence, which probably might have saved the life of
+these men, was therefore useless.</p>
+
+<p>But let us return to Soya Cape, where we have left the
+wreck.</p>
+
+<p>The rapid current which comes through the Strait gives
+a horrid look to the water, and I have never seen the sea look
+so vicious. The natives of the small Soya village told me that
+it is impossible to cross over to Sakhalin, the high mountains
+of which, covered with snow and glaciers, I could see
+distinctly. The distance from land to land is about twenty-eight
+miles, but no small boat can get across without being
+swamped. They told me also that often dead bodies of
+Russians are washed on shore, probably unfortunate convicts
+who found their death in attempting to obtain liberty. H.M.S.
+"Rattler" was wrecked in 1868 on one of the numerous reefs
+near this Cape, so the record of Soya could hardly be more
+mournful.</p>
+
+<p>After the Cape has been well rounded one finds oneself
+in a bay opening due north. In the winter time this
+bay is completely blocked with ice, but the Strait itself is
+never entirely frozen, owing to the strong warm current
+from the Chinese Sea, which the Japanese call by the name
+of Kuroshiwo.</p>
+
+<p>Soya village is a wretched place of thirty or forty sheds.
+A few planks, badly joined together, and with a kind of a roof
+over them, made my shelter for the night. Soya Cape is the
+most northern point of the north-east coast, and before we
+abandon it to move towards the south, along the west
+coast, it is important to mention the peculiar and conspicuous
+characteristic of the marked bending of watercourses in a south
+or south-easterly direction. They are forced that way by the
+drift-sand travelling along the coast from north-west to south-east
+with the Kuroshiwo current, which drift-sand is in such
+quantities as often to block altogether the mouths of some
+rivers, and form the large lagoons so common along this coast.
+The lack of harbours or sheltered anchorages, the inhospitable
+and unfertile shores, the quicksands, and the severe climate,
+besides the danger of being swamped and carried away by
+the overflow of a lagoon or lake, make this coast of little
+attraction for intending settlers or for pleasure-seekers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>
+Herrings are plentiful all along the coast, but fishing stations
+could not possibly pay, even if any were established, owing to
+the difficulty and expense of carriage and freight, and the risk
+that ships would run in calling at such exposed and unprotected
+shores.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 392px;">
+<img src="images/illus-166.jpg" width="392" height="289" alt="AINU VILLAGE ON THE EAST COAST OF YEZO" />
+<span class="caption">AINU VILLAGE ON THE EAST COAST OF YEZO.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 360px;">
+<img src="images/illus-167.jpg" width="360" height="236" alt="MASHIKE MOUNTAIN" />
+<span class="caption">MASHIKE MOUNTAIN.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVI.<br />
+<span class="small">From Cape Soya to the Ishikari River.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>From Soya the coast forms a large bay, which opens due
+north, and which ends in Cape Soya on the eastern side and
+in Cape Nossyap on the western. Almost in the middle is
+the small village of Coittoe, and from this place, towering
+beyond the flat Nossyap peninsula, one can see Rishiri
+Island. Near the western part of the bay are some small
+hills, covered mainly with fir-trees. Wakkanai, a Japanese
+village, is on the west coast of the bay, and north of it is Cape
+Nossyap. From this cape is a lovely view of Rishiri and
+Repunshiri Islands. Rishiri is a volcanic cone 6,400 feet
+above the level of the sea. It has the identical shape of the
+famous Fujiama in Southern Japan, and rising as it does in
+graceful slopes directly from the sea, has the appearance of
+being higher than it really is. Repunshiri is hilly and partly
+of volcanic formation, but none of its peaks rise to a higher
+altitude than five hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>Rishiri is almost circular at sea-level, and it has no well-sheltered
+nor safe anchorages; but Repunshiri has one good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>
+anchorage on its north coast. Rishiri is about six and a half
+miles in diameter and twenty-five miles distant, directly west
+of Cape Nossyap; Repunshiri is eleven miles long, about four
+and a-half wide, and eleven miles distant to Ikaru, its nearest
+point east on the Yezo coast. As the Kuriles are a continuation
+east of the volcanic zone of Yezo, there is no doubt that
+Rishiri and Repunshiri are the terminus of the same volcanic
+zone at its north-west end.</p>
+
+<p>From Wakkanai a new horse-track has been opened to
+Bakkai, on the north-west coast. The ride for the first eleven
+miles was uncomfortable, as my pony, a worn-out brute, sank
+up to its belly in the mud; but in due course I came to the
+hilly part, and after having gone up one steep pitch and down
+another for a considerable distance, I rapidly descended a
+precipitous bank, and followed the soft sandy beach till I
+reached Bakkai. Here there is a large and peculiar stone,
+which the Ainu say resembles an old woman carrying a child
+on her back. It stands perpendicularly out of the ground
+at a great height, and it is of a rich dark-brown colour. If
+the north-east coast was barren and deserted, the western
+shore of Yezo was even yet more desolate. For thirty or
+forty miles, as far as the Teshio River, the beach was strewn
+with wrecks and wreckage. Here you saw a boat smashed to
+pieces; there a mast cast on the shore; further on a wheel-house
+washed away by the waves; then the helm of a disabled
+ship. It was a sight sad enough to break one's heart, with
+all the tragic circumstances it suggested.</p>
+
+<p>Between Bakkai and Wadamanai especially, I do not think
+that one can go more than a few yards at a time without being
+reminded by the wreckage which is strewn thick on the coast
+of some calamity. A white life-boat, with her stern smashed,
+lay on the sand helpless to save, and as a kind of satire on
+her name; and at Wadamanai, a large Russian cruiser, the
+"Crisorok," dismasted and broken in two, lay flat on the beach
+half covered with sand. Her bridge had been washed away
+and her deck had sunk in. Some of the bodies of her gallant
+officers and crew had been washed on shore by the sea. No
+one knows in what circumstances the ship was lost, but it is
+probable that during last winter, when she came to her ill-fated
+end, her rigging and sails got top-heavy with ice, and that she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>
+capsized. Some of the wreckage one finds on that coast has
+been drifted there from the Chinese Sea by the Kuroshiwo
+current; and then, owing to the La Perouse Strait turning so
+sharply to the east, has been left on this last portion of the
+coast. Here and there a rough tent made with a torn sail, or
+a deserted shed knocked up out of pieces of wreckage, is a
+suggestive reminder that some unfortunate derelict seafarer
+had suffered and striven for life on these forlorn sands. An
+enormous quantity of drift-logs, and here and there some
+bones of whales, are strewn all along the beach.</p>
+
+<p>At Wadamanai there is a mere rough shed under the shelter
+of the sand-hills. When I left this place, moving south, a
+strong gale blew, which made the travelling most unpleasant.
+It was getting fearfully cold, and now that I needed clothes
+so badly mine were falling altogether to pieces. My "unmentionables,"
+which reached down to my feet when I left Hakodate
+at the beginning of my journey, had long since been
+trimmed and reduced to a kind of knickerbockers. Then the
+knees got worn out, and they became more like bathing-breeches;
+and finally I dispensed with them altogether, and
+made use of them to protect my sketch-book and diary, round
+which I wrapped what remained of the ex-garment. My
+boots, of course, were a dream of the past, and little by little
+I was getting accustomed to walking barefooted. Thus,
+dressed in a coat, a belt ... and nothing else, I moved along
+this inhospitable coast, half frozen, but not discomfited.</p>
+
+<p>The mouths of some of the small rivulets were extremely
+nasty to cross, as my pony sank in the quicksands. I had
+to help him out, and that meant a cold bath each time. From
+Wadamanai I kept a little more inland, still steering for the
+south, and every now and then I again struck the beach.
+Still the old sad story of wreckages strewn all over the shore,
+sailing boats smashed to pieces, junks disabled and half buried
+in sand, met me at every turn, creating in my mind a very
+monotony of melancholy.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the evening I reached the mouth of the Teshio
+River, a broad deep watercourse, one of the three largest rivers
+in Hokkaido, the other two being the Ishikari and the Tokachi.
+It has a long course in a general north-westerly direction, and
+then sharply turns southward, running parallel with the coast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>
+for about four miles, and forming a kind of lagoon at its outlet,
+which seems now to be working towards the northward again.
+All the other rivers on the west coast tend northward owing
+to the drift-sand which the current brings north. It is strange
+that the Teshio should partly be an exception to this rule,
+though we have ample evidence, even in this watercourse, of
+the movement of the sand, for the bar at its mouth almost
+entirely blocks its entrance, and rapidly works in a northerly
+direction. Thus there is no doubt that the sand travels
+towards the north all along the west coast.</p>
+
+<p>Sea-trout is abundant in the Teshio River, but salmon, with
+which this stream formerly abounded, are now less plentiful
+owing to the sand-bar which blocks the entrance.</p>
+
+<p>A gale was blowing fiercely when I crossed the lagoon in a
+small Ainu "dug-out," and my pony was made to swim across.
+Two or three times we nearly capsized, and we shipped a lot
+of water. It was just like sitting in a bath with water up to
+my waist; but the Ainu, who had as much as he could do to
+paddle me across and tow the pony as well, comforted me by
+saying, "Now that his 'dug-out' was full, we could not ship
+any more water, and that his skiff, being made of wood, could
+not sink!"</p>
+
+<p>After a long struggle we got safely to the other side, and
+the Ainu boatman guided me for a mile or so to the fishing
+village at the mouth of the river. It has but ten huts, all more
+or less miserable. The pony was so done up that he was
+hardly fit to carry my traps, much less could he have borne
+my weight. I could not get a fresh animal, so I had to push
+forward walking, and dragging the beast on as well as I could.
+This had the advantage of keeping me warm, which I needed
+badly, for what with the cold and my dilapidated costume I
+was more nearly frozen to death than was pleasant. The
+track was heavy in the soft sand, and the dangerous and
+numerous quicksand streams were enough to make a saint
+swear&mdash;if swearing would have done any good. How unspeakably
+desolate it all was! Not a soul to be met; not a
+hut to be seen! Here and there more wreckage and drift-wood
+on the shore, telling of storms and death, and the absence
+of all human aid. At last I came in sight of an Ainu hut; but
+as I drew near I found that it was abandoned. My meals,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>
+never very plentiful, were now specially scanty&mdash;few and far
+between; and, taken altogether, this part of my travels in
+Ainuland was somewhat lacking in cheerfulness.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs near Wembets have the strange appearance of
+so many cones at equal intervals along the coast. On the
+Wembets River there were as many as two huts; and here
+again I had to cross in a boat, the stream being too deep
+to ford on foot or horseback; then again along the sand,
+dragging my pony, while I myself could hardly stand on
+my half-skinned feet, I went on and on, wearied of the
+monotony of my miserable experiences. The track grew
+narrow, and always worse. The high grey cliffs of clay-rock
+began, and the rough sea washed up to the foot of
+them, making progress more than ever unpleasant and
+dangerous. Each wave that came brought the water up
+to my knees, often up to my waist, and for about ten
+miles I was continually in and out of water. On a cold
+day my readers can imagine how pleasant it was! About
+sunset I came in sight of the two flat islands of Teuri and
+Yangeshiri, about fifteen miles off the coast. It then grew
+dark; but the moon came to my help, shining brightly on the
+greyish cliffs. The tide had risen, and in several places I had
+great difficulty in getting across on account of the furious
+waves dashing against the cliffs, and making a picturesque and
+living sheet of foam.</p>
+
+<p>Late at night, as I had almost given up all hope of finding
+a shelter, I came upon a shed on the Furembets River, where
+I put up for the night.</p>
+
+<p>My wretched pony was nearly dead with fatigue, and I let
+him loose so that he might get a feed of grass. The next
+morning, after the inmates of the hut had volunteered to go
+and bring him back to me, I heard them on the distant hills
+calling, "<i>Pop, pop, pop, pop!</i>" the Ainu way of approaching and
+calling horses. After a time they came back hopeless, saying
+that the brute had bolted, and there was no hope of getting
+him again. He could not be found anywhere! I was in the
+most awful dilemma, for had that been the case I would have
+been forced to abandon all my impedimenta, consisting of
+sketches and painting materials, and proceed as best I could
+on foot. Under other circumstances I could have carried the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>
+baggage on my back easily; but as I was half-starved, and had
+my feet badly cut, I was hardly able to carry my own weight;
+therefore this was not possible now.</p>
+
+<p>As incredulity is one of the useful qualities I possess, I went
+to look after my pony myself. The shed was protected by a
+sand-mound at the back, and a small space was left between
+the mound and the wall of the shed. I do not know what
+made me go and look there, but sure enough there was my
+pony lying flat, and almost too weak to get up again. This
+was no horse-stealing ruse on the part of the Ainu; simply the
+wretched animal's own idea of good stabling and likely fodder.
+I dragged him out of his involuntary prison, and after having
+done what I could for his comfort and well-being, we set out
+once more on our melancholy travels. This may sound cruel
+to some who in the course of their life have never travelled
+in out-of-the-way places, and who are ready to condemn anyone
+who is the means of letting an animal suffer. It may
+sound cruel in our humane country, where animals are protected
+and prize-fights tolerated and enjoyed; so to avoid
+misunderstandings it might be as well for me to say, that as
+regards this tired pony it was simply the matter to push on
+with him as far as I could or lose all the valuable materials I
+had collected during months of sufferings and privations. No
+ponies were to be got for any money along that deserted
+coast, for there were none in existence. I did my best to
+alleviate the poor animal's sufferings by undergoing myself a
+considerable amount of pain, walking most of the way with my
+feet a mass of sores; and as winter was rapidly coming on, I
+was more than anxious to make my way south with all the
+speed I could, to prevent being blocked up with snow and ice
+and forced to spend the winter on this inhospitable coast.
+Consequently, I was, as a matter of fact, more cruel to myself
+than to my animals; to the others, those who will still cast
+the first stone at me, I can wish no better punishment than to
+be placed in the same position I was then. The trail became
+somewhat better, as it led over the cliffs for about three miles;
+then again it was on the beach. The high cliffs varied from
+a very rich burnt sienna colour to a nice warm grey, and in
+some places they are perfectly white, like the cliffs at Dover.
+Conical mounds frequently occur, and give a curious aspect to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>
+this deserted shore. Ten miles further on, at Chukbets, I
+found a couple of huts; then I walked and dragged the pony
+on the cliffs for about four miles; then again I resorted to
+the beach; and finally I entered Hamboro, a small village,
+or rather a picturesque group of sheds and huts, and a capital
+fishing-station. <i>Shake</i>, salmon, <i>mashe</i>, and herrings are caught
+in abundance at the mouth of this river. A short distance
+from here hundreds of carcasses of seals were scattered
+on the beach, whence emanated pestilential odours. On
+account of the slowness of my pony I had to-night a
+modified repetition of last night's experience, but neither
+was the sea so rough nor the trail so narrow at the bottom of
+the cliffs; and though my wretched animal was naturally in
+a worse condition than before, I was able to push on to
+Tomamai that same night, where I arrived at a small hour
+of the morning.</p>
+
+<p>At Tomamai, the coast, which had described a long curve,
+the two ends of which are Ikuru north and this point south,
+turns sharply in a southerly direction, running straight for
+many miles from north to south.</p>
+
+<p>From Tomamai southwards the coast is not quite as deserted
+as it was further north, for here and there are villages
+of fishermen's houses. The population, however, is a migratory
+one, and when I went through, the herring-fishing season
+was over, and consequently most of the houses were abandoned
+and the people had migrated south. The winter weather is
+very severe, and the houses have to be barricaded with thick
+piles of wood as a protection against the strong westerly gales.
+The boats had been drawn far on shore, where they were
+well fastened to posts, and rough sheds thatched with grass
+built over them.</p>
+
+<p>Along the coast there was a string of these habitations, hut
+after hut, storehouse after storehouse, but hardly a soul to be
+seen. It was like going through the city of the dead. Many
+of the fishermen's huts were built on the side of the rugged
+cliffs, and they stood on piles about fifteen feet high, the back
+of the house resting on the cliff itself. Twelve and a half
+miles further another row of houses, similarly deserted for the
+winter, stood along the shore-line at Onishika. In this part
+of the coast salmon are very scarce, and the chief industry is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>
+the herring fishery. There are no Ainu to be found either at
+Tomamai or Onishika.</p>
+
+<p>I continued my lonesome ride in the pouring rain, and soon
+came to a peculiar long tunnel, natural and partly excavated,
+between this place and Rumoi, a village prettily situated on
+the slope of a hill fifteen miles further. This place possesses
+a small anchorage at the mouth of the river, which is now only
+fit for junks and small sailing-boats, but could be considerably
+improved. Good coal has been discovered some way up
+the river. There is a track on the cliffs leading to Mashike.
+All along the coast are any number of fishermen's houses, but
+they were all closed and barricaded. Ultimately, descending
+from the cliffs in a zig-zag fashion, after another ten miles'
+ride I found myself at Mashike, the largest Japanese village
+in the Teshio district. Close to the tunnel there is a small
+Ainu village, where the natives let their hair grow very long,
+and then tie it up in a kind of knot, similar to the Corean
+fashion of head-dress, while the women have given up tattooing
+altogether. The fishermen at Mashike seem to suffer
+greatly from "<i>Kaki</i>," or rheumatism, and cancer, while consumption,
+malarial fever, and typhus are in a small proportion.</p>
+
+<p>I had to stop over one day at Mashike, for the river was
+swollen by the heavy rains, and it was impossible to get across.
+On the other side of it stood Mashike-san, a huge volcanic
+mountain rising sheer from the sea, and forming Cape
+Kamuieto, under the shelter of which lies Mashike village;
+and further south Cape Uhui projects into the sea. It is the
+end of a mountain range which here runs north and then
+south again, in the latter part forming one side of the upper
+basin of the Teshio River. Mashike is the largest settlement
+either on the north-east or west coast of Yezo. Its population
+is partly migratory, but not so wholly as is the case with the
+villages I had previously passed. I was delayed still another
+day owing to the condition of the river; for the rain, instead
+of decreasing, poured down to such an extent that the stream
+could not be crossed, the current being too swift and the water
+too deep. The sea was also too rough to allow of my leaving
+Mashike in a canoe.</p>
+
+<p>On the third day I rose early, and decided to attempt this
+much-desired crossing of the river. It had not rained during<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>
+the night, and the waters seemed to have slightly diminished.
+As the stream runs down a very steep incline on the slopes of
+Mashike Mountain, the current rushes with tremendous force.
+It was about five in the morning when I took my baggage to
+the river bank. It was made up in two bundles, which I tied
+together firmly with a leather strap. Some of the natives
+who had collected round me entreated me to give up this
+foolish idea, for they said I should infallibly lose my life if I
+attempted to wade across the swollen river.</p>
+
+<p>I saw at once that my pony would never be able to cross,
+so I left him, and, taking the baggage on my head, and passing
+my hands through the strap, I went into the water. The
+current was indeed so strong that, weak as I was, I could
+hardly stand against it. I had nearly reached the middle,
+with the water up to my mouth, when I fancied I heard the
+anxious crowd scream to me, "<i>Abunai! abunai! abunai!</i>"&mdash;"Look
+out! look out! look out!" Startled and alarmed at
+this piercing cry I turned my head, and saw within a few yards
+of me a huge trunk of a tree coming swiftly down with the
+current. There was a bump, and I saw nothing more. Half a
+minute later I was violently thrown on the opposite bank, and
+in trying to stand up on my feet in the shallow water my right
+foot unfortunately got jammed between two stones in the
+river bed; I was knocked down again, and broke my heel-bone
+just under the ankle. Several natives came to my rescue
+and I was lifted out of the water, half-stunned, half-drowned,
+but still holding fast to my load. I was nearly frozen, and
+trembling like a leaf from cold. When I tried to stand my
+right leg collapsed, and I had to lie down on the ground.
+What with the blow which I had received from the floating
+wood, what with the muddy water I had involuntarily swallowed,
+it took me some minutes before I could quite understand
+my situation, or what had befallen me. When I did I
+felt a terrible pain in my right leg. I looked, and there, on the
+sand, under my foot and leg, which were swollen up to an
+enormous size, was a pool of blood; the broken bone had
+penetrated the skin, and was exposed to the air. When I
+recovered my senses well enough I got a man to tear the wet
+lining of my drenched coat, and with it and a few improvised
+splints I proceeded to set my own broken bone. It was hard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>
+work; but with the help of some natives I bandaged it up as
+well as I could, and with the extra help of a coarse flaxen
+rope I made a fairly good surgical job of the whole thing.</p>
+
+<p>Stopping there till I grew better would have been foolish,
+for winter was setting in; everything would soon be frozen
+and snowed up, and, far from all my friends, as well as from
+anything like civilised life or elementary comforts as I was, I
+should probably have died. As long as I had a spark of life left
+in me I decided that I would struggle and push on, come what
+might. Two men undertook to carry me over the Mashike
+Mountain, which rises to an altitude of 3,600 feet above the
+sea-level. The mountain is thickly wooded, and the trail is
+steep, heavy, and in many places dangerous, and when we
+reached a sufficient altitude the trail was merely in the bed of
+a rivulet composed mainly of huge stones. Travelling in the
+state in which I was, was something like going to one's own
+funeral. The jerking and the cold were excruciating; the
+continuous stumbling and unsteady walk of my men over the
+rough and slippery slopes did not improve my condition; but
+finally we reached the summit. What a lovely view! One
+could see far along the Teshio coast on the one side and down
+towards the Ishikari on the other, and towards the east rose up
+a picturesque chain of thickly-wooded mountains. Rising from
+the sea stood the fine Cape Airup, near Moi; then far beyond,
+dimly seen in the mist, was the towering outline of Shakotan.
+We went down the other side, and my men, poor fellows, did
+their best to cheer me up. One of them told me a cheering
+story of a grizzly bear&mdash;which, by the way, he said were
+numberless on this mountain&mdash;that had killed and eaten two
+children, and also their father when the latter went to their
+rescue. The other told me of the many men who had perished
+in crossing the mountain; some had been overtaken by a snowstorm,
+others had lost their way and fallen over precipices,
+while others again had been killed by avalanches in winter.</p>
+
+<p>Listening to this lively conversation, shaken and suffering,
+I arrived late at night at Moi, having been carried over a
+distance of twenty-five miles, to do which occupied about
+eighteen hours. There was no possible way of getting across
+the mountains between here and Atzta, as the high granitic
+perpendicular cliffs are unscalable, and I was bound to entrust<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+my life to a small Ainu canoe. Two other passengers, a
+Japanese woman and a man, asked if I would allow them to
+travel in the boat with me; and then we three, rowed by an
+Ainu man, put out to sea. The sea was rough outside, but as
+the large bay was well protected by the Aikap Cape, all went
+right at first; but in rounding the point we went too near the
+rocks, got caught in a breaker, and shipped so much water
+that the canoe began to slowly sink under the additional
+weight. The Ainu was pretty smart, and he put his skiff on
+the rocks. Between him and the two passengers I was helped
+out, and while the Ainu emptied the canoe, the two Japanese
+undressed entirely and spread out all their clothes and
+underclothes in the sun to dry.</p>
+
+<p>We got on board again, and, coasting more carefully, passed
+several small fishing villages, of which Gokibira is the largest
+and most important. It is backed by high mountains ranging
+from twelve hundred to seventeen hundred and more feet
+above the sea. One of the mountains&mdash;the highest&mdash;is called
+Okashi-nae-yama.</p>
+
+<p>Atzta is a long narrow village, of which almost all the
+houses are built against the cliff. From here I had to begin
+riding again along the bad and stony coast, among drift-wood,
+and up and down cliffs. Anyone who has ever had any broken
+bones will appreciate the tortures which I had to go through.
+Owing to pain, exhaustion, and fatigue I had no control over
+my pony, and could hardly stick on to the saddle. I took the
+precaution of tying the bridle to my wrist, for should the pony
+knock me off, he could not bolt away; but, unhappily, sometimes
+this was the means of his dragging me mercilessly on
+the ground for dozens of yards before he would stop. Then I
+had to wait for some charitable passer-by to help me into the
+saddle again, for I could no longer mount by myself. Day
+after day of this wretched life made me feel almost unconscious
+that I had a pain. I took things as they came, and I
+went on. Now that I sit here in a comfortable chair writing
+this by a cosy fire, I am myself astonished at my own perseverance.
+If I were called upon to go through the same experience
+now I could not. But in truth there are many things that one
+does not mind doing for motives of pleasure which one would
+never dream of attempting under the compulsion of an external<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>
+will. Kutambets is picturesquely situated in a large
+gully formed by a break in the red-tinted cliffs. From Kutambets
+to Moroi the track is slightly better, and from this to
+Ishikari it is quite easy. The latter river, a very large one,
+has to be crossed by a ferry, as the habitations are on the
+south banks of the stream.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 229px;">
+<img src="images/illus-178.jpg" width="229" height="228" alt="ISHIKARI KRAFTU AINU" />
+<span class="caption">ISHIKARI KRAFTU AINU.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;">
+<img src="images/illus-179.jpg" width="355" height="206" alt="THE KAMUIKOTAN RAPIDS" />
+<span class="caption">THE KAMUIKOTAN RAPIDS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.<br />
+<span class="small">The Ishikari River.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>On the north side of the mouth of the Ishikari River is an
+Ainu village called Raishats. Its inhabitants are not natives
+of this island, but were imported by the Japanese Government
+from Sakhalin when it was exchanged with Russia for the
+Kuriles.</p>
+
+<p>At the entrance of the river, and close to this village, another
+wreck&mdash;of the "Kamida Maru"&mdash;a schooner, ended the
+mournful list of disasters on this inhospitable coast.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu of Raishats are different in some ways from the
+Yezo Ainu proper. They call themselves Kraftu Ainu,
+"Kraftu"<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> being the Ainu name for Sakhalin. Their skin is
+of a lighter colour; but the principal difference is in their eyes
+and eyebrows. The Kraftu Ainu have eyes of the Mongolian
+type, though larger, while the Yezo Ainu have not; and their
+eyebrows have a very pronounced curve near the nose.
+Most of the women seemed to suffer from consumption, and
+the men also did not seem as strong as the other Ainu. The
+women tattoo on their lips a small square pattern instead of
+the long moustache, and most of them have now adopted
+Japanese <i>kimonos</i>, or else wear gowns similar to those of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
+Russian peasants. Some also wear skin gowns similar to
+those of the Kurilsky Ainu, ornamented with feathers and
+bits of molten lead sewn on them. A velvet cap or a kind of
+tiara is their head-gear, and this also is ornamented with gold
+and silver or red beads, or else is embroidered in bright colours.</p>
+
+<p>The children are arrayed in more gaudy colours than their
+elders. They have bright red embroideries round their necks,
+and the whole gown is full of spangles and beads, the proceeds
+of parental barter. A peculiar paunch-suspender, which I saw
+here for the first time, was ingenious, and answered a great
+want in the Ainu country. As will be seen later, the majority
+of Ainu children have huge paunches, mostly due to the inability
+of the hairy people to tie and secure properly the umbilical cord
+at the child's birth. This not only produces great discomfort
+to the child, but often causes its death. The belt which I saw
+was made on the principle that the weight of the paunch,
+under which passed a kind of net made of strips of skin, was
+supported by braces going over the shoulders, and by this contrivance,
+if the original lesion did not get much better it did
+not get worse, as it does when not taken any care of at all.
+Neither men nor women wore earrings; but the fair sex wore
+a kind of velvet ribbon necklace round their neck, and on this
+ribbon were sewn ornaments of molten lead, silver, and other
+metals.</p>
+
+<p>The habitations, storehouses, and customs of these Ainu
+are similar to those of the others. As I slowly rode along the
+banks of the river just before sunset, retracing my steps
+towards the Ishikari village, I saw a hidden trail, which
+apparently led to the woods. I made my pony follow it, and
+shortly afterwards I came to a graveyard. As I have said,
+the Ainu are extremely jealous of their burial-places, and they
+resent strangers, even Japanese, going near them. It was
+nearly fifteen days since the accident to my leg had occurred,
+and though I could neither walk nor stand on it, still I was
+beginning to be accustomed to the agony, and with great
+trouble and pain I could dismount from my tiny pony. Strange
+to say, mounting was not so difficult, for I could pull myself up
+with my arms, lie flat on my stomach on the saddle, and then
+swing round, and it did not jar me as much as coming down.
+I had my paint-box fastened to the saddle, and I unlashed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>
+it to take a sketch. The tombs were so many trunks of
+trees cut and carved, and with one branch left on one side (<i>see</i>
+<a href="#Page_218">Chapter XXI.</a>). One tomb particularly was more ornamented,
+and it had a flat-shaped monument, roughly but well carved
+at its head. An object resembling the bottom of a "dug-out"
+covered the body, and this was also carved. At each of the
+four corners a wooden blade was stuck in the ground. From
+the stench I should think that the body was only a few inches
+underground.</p>
+
+<p>Fate had punished me so severely of late for faults which I
+never committed that I thought myself now entitled to commit
+a fault for the sake of squaring accounts. One of the small
+wooden blades, nicely carved, would just go under my coat.
+I decided to steal it. To my mind it was hardly a big enough
+crime even to balance the last accident I had had.</p>
+
+<p>I turned round to see that no one was looking. I put down
+my paint-box, crawled to the grave, took the blade, put it
+under my coat, and, ashamed of myself for committing the
+outrage&mdash;though with prepaid punishment&mdash;I scrambled up
+on my pony as well I could, and hurriedly left the place. I
+rode back to the ferry, a long way off, and went across to
+Ishikari, and catching a moment when no one was watching
+me, I quickly passed the carved blade from under my coat
+into my baggage.</p>
+
+<p>"What a good thief I would make," I thought to myself,
+when to my horror I remembered that in the hurry of leaving
+the graveyard I had forgotten my paint-box in the very
+same spot from which I had taken the blade!</p>
+
+<p>If any Ainu had gone to the graveyard and found it, I
+would get into a nice mess! During the night I felt more
+than uncomfortable about it, and at dawn the next morning I
+got the tea-house man to bring my horse and set me on it, for
+I said, "I wish to go and see the sunrise from the other side
+of the river."</p>
+
+<p>The landlord thought it rather funny, and funnier still when
+he saw me coming back a couple of hours later with a paint-box
+lashed to my saddle, while he said he was sure I had
+started without one.</p>
+
+<p>"Did you not see it this morning?" said I with assumed
+innocence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>
+"No, your honourable," said he, drawing in his breath.</p>
+
+<p>"You did not look for it in the right place," said I, and
+up to this day the landlord does not know where the right
+place was.</p>
+
+<p>The Ishikari is one of the great salmon rivers of Yezo.
+About the end of September the salmon enter the river to
+spawn. They are in such abundance then that the stream is
+crowded thick with them, and it is quite sufficient to have a
+hook fastened to a stick to pull out a large fish each time
+it is dipped into the water. Millions of fine salmon are caught
+within a few days, and the banks of the river are packed with
+dead fish, while the whole population is occupied in splitting
+open each fish, taking out its inside, for preservation.</p>
+
+<p>The same method of netting as is practised for sardine
+fishing is employed for salmon. Eighteen or twenty excited
+men vigorously row the boats out into mid-stream, and after
+describing a semicircle, return to the bank. The nets are
+hauled in, the fish flung out on the river banks, and the same
+process begins <i>de novo</i>. A man in a "dug-out" watches when
+the salmon are more or less plentiful, and signals for the boat to
+start, while he himself spears them with a harpoon. At the
+right time of the year as many as 1500 or 2,000 and more
+good fish are caught each time the net is hauled in. This
+grand take of course only lasts a few days.</p>
+
+<p>Though good, the Yezo salmon has none of the fine qualities
+of the salmon of northern European rivers, and it is not quite
+so good as that of the Canadian rivers. It does not keep so
+well, and in colour is much lighter than our salmon.</p>
+
+<p>The Ishikari River opens to the north, and runs parallel to
+the coast, leaving a flat tongue of sand between it and the sea.
+Following the course of the stream against the current, it goes
+winding south, then sharply turns to the south-east, following
+this direction for about fourteen miles. Then again it
+winds up to the north, and then to the east for a distance of
+over one hundred miles, where its source lies in the very heart
+of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>The Ishikari carries a large body of water, and it is nine
+hundred and twenty feet wide near its mouth. Its "drainage
+area" has been estimated to be over three thousand square
+miles, including mountain slopes, while the actual valley does<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+not, in my opinion, exceed eight hundred square miles. The
+river receives many affluents, of which the most important are
+the Rubeshibe, Chupets, Piegawa, the Sorachi River, and
+the Toyohira on its south side, and the Uriugawa on its north
+side. Near the coast the valley is wooded mainly with scrub
+oak, but further inland its banks are heavily timbered. The
+Sorachi River is the most important affluent on the south side.
+It is navigable for "dug-outs" and small sailing boats for
+some considerable distance. At Sorachi one strikes the new
+road which leads from the Poronai coal mines to Kamikawa,
+where the site has been chosen for the intended new capital of
+Hokkaido.</p>
+
+<p>The road between Sorachi and the latter place not being
+metalled, was exceedingly bad owing to the heavy rains, and
+my pony continually sank in mud up to his belly. The road
+follows the course of the Ishikari River more or less; and in
+the woods is a military settlement like those we have seen
+near Nemuro and Akkeshi. At Otoyebukets the traveller
+must change horses. About eight miles further on one
+reaches the Kamuikotan rapids, a poetic spot: huge rocks
+in the water, violently rushing between and over them, form
+pretty waterfalls. The Ainu occasionally shoot down these
+rapids in their "dug-outs," and remains of these are to be
+seen here and there smashed on the rocks. From this point
+the road rises almost all the way, and the wayfarer must
+cross over the hill range, from the top of which the whole
+plain of Kamikawa can be seen, in the upper basin of the
+Ishikari, which, winding like a silver snake, intersects the flat
+valley.</p>
+
+<p>Descending the hill on the other side, I reached the future
+capital of Hokkaido. It is indeed a town of the future, for
+at the present moment there are only five houses, if I may call
+them so. The site of this embryo metropolis is by the
+Chubets River; and on the hill called Nayosami I was told a
+palace for the Emperor is to be erected. However, they were
+not certain about it yet. It is a pretty hill, almost in the
+centre of the large plain, and from the top of it one gets a
+lovely view of a volcanic cone standing in front of you to the
+south. Near this hill the new road turns sharply almost at a
+right angle, and two miles further some <i>Tondens</i> have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>
+begun (<i>Ciuta Hombu</i>). Hundreds of convicts, who, by the
+way, have made the road between here and Poronai, were at
+work continuing the same road towards the east. I believe
+that eventually it will be prolonged to the north-east coast,
+where it will end near Abashiri. In my opinion the scheme
+practically will be a failure, for Kamikawa will never be a
+flourishing place, as there is nothing to support a large population.
+From a strategic point of view of course Kamikawa
+has the advantage of being in the centre of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>Kamikawa is 342 feet above the level of the sea, but it is
+well sheltered, and the climate, though very cold, is not quite
+so severe as in other parts of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu of the upper Ishikari are nearly the same as the
+Saru Ainu, only somewhat taller and more ill-tempered. They
+show greater skill than other Ainu in wood-carving and
+general ornamentation. Along the banks of the river huts
+are scattered here and there; but the largest number is at
+Chubets.</p>
+
+<p>At the present moment the Japanese population of Kamikawa
+is, with the exception of half-a-dozen policemen and as
+many civilians, composed entirely of convicts. These are
+dressed in red coats and trousers, and those who have committed
+murder have the top of their head shaved in the shape
+of a bottle (Jap., <i>Hetzui</i>). If any misbehave, they are
+beaten with the flat side of the long sword worn by the policeman
+in charge; but I must confess that otherwise the policemen
+are extremely kind in every way to these fellows. The
+well-behaved have one, two, or three small pieces of black cloth
+sewn to their left sleeve. They are made to work hard, but
+save this enforced diligence they seem to have a pretty good
+time. As I was talking to a policeman in charge, two dead
+men were brought on a cart by a man who had a towel over
+his mouth and a red blanket over his head. The two men had
+died suddenly. They had arrived only a few days previously
+from Southern Japan, where cholera was raging, and they had
+all the symptoms of having died of that deadly disease.</p>
+
+<p>A very exciting way of retracing your steps down to the
+Sorachi River is to shoot the rapids in an Ainu "dug-out."
+You make one or two Ainu moderately drunk, as otherwise
+they do not seem anxious to attempt it, and when they are in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>
+that pot-valiant condition you get them to paddle your canoe
+down the stream, while you sit in the bottom holding on to the
+sides. You start with the velocity of a turtle, increase it to
+that of a horse, then to that of a swallow, and when you are
+well in the rapids it is like travelling on an arrow. You go
+rubbing against rocks, and are shot in the air when going over
+a small waterfall, only to fall with a splash in the water some
+yards further, with an increase of velocity as you go on. It
+really requires but little skill to navigate rapids, for it is the
+current itself that does all the work. All that is needed is to
+keep the "dug-out" straight in the water. Of course if you
+should happen to collide with a rock when you are going at
+nearly double the rate of an express train you would have
+little chance of saving your life; but if you are neither smashed
+nor drowned, and you do not come to grief in any way, you
+can accomplish the journey, which takes you the whole day by
+land, in little over one hour when there is plenty of water in
+the stream.</p>
+
+<p>On the road from Sorachi to Poronai, and halfway between
+the villages of Naye and Takigawa, a new coal mine has been
+discovered and opened, which is said to be very rich in mineral
+of good quality; in fact, superior to the coal of Poronai. It
+is ten miles from Otaussi Nai village, where the high road has
+to be abandoned if the mine is to be visited.</p>
+
+<p>There are many Ainu both at Takikawa-Mura (Waterfall-River
+village), at Otaussi, and at Poronai-buts. Poronai has
+in its neighbourhood some rich coal mines. As others have
+reported more accurately and correctly than I can on the
+quality and extent of these coal seams, I shall abstain from
+repeating or copying what has been already said. I may,
+however, mention that the seams cut the valley of the Ikusum
+River eight miles from Poronai-buts, and a continuation of
+them is found near the springs of the Sorachi. The coal beds
+of Poronai are about three and a half feet deep, and many
+different beds have been found deeper than these, but of
+inferior quality. Poronai also goes by the name of Ishikishiri,
+and a large penitentiary has been erected here for the accommodation
+of the numerous convicts exported from the Main
+Island to improve the scheme for the colonisation of Yezo.
+I was called on by the chief <i>yakunin</i> (officer), and he expressed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>
+a wish that I should inspect the prisons. A splendid horse
+was sent to convey me thither, and two policemen helped me
+on my progress through the buildings, owing to my inability
+to walk more than a few yards at a time. It was a large
+walled enclosure, with houses for the officials and cells for the
+<i>akambos</i>, a jocular term, meaning "babies," which is applied to
+convicts, because they wear red clothes like children. The
+buildings were beautifully clean, but what astonished me most
+was that no precaution whatever was adopted to prevent convicts
+from escaping. The outside gates were all wide open;
+there were neither soldiers nor policemen at the gates, and,
+moreover, the <i>concierge</i> was himself a convict!</p>
+
+<p>"But," said I, "do not many of these fellows escape?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, no, not many. Last month only sixteen ran away,"
+was the <i>insouciant</i> answer of my guide.</p>
+
+<p>From Poronai-buts to Sappro there is a small railway, by
+which the coal trains are run to the coast as far as Otaru.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 182px;">
+<img src="images/illus-186.jpg" width="182" height="263" alt="WOMAN OF ISHIKARI RIVER" />
+<span class="caption">WOMAN OF ISHIKARI RIVER.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-187.png" width="300" height="169" alt="AINU BARK WATER-JUGS" />
+<span class="caption">AINU BARK WATER-JUGS</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.<br />
+<span class="small">Nearing Civilisation.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Sappro, the present capital of Hokkaido, is a town of fairly
+large size, with wide streets intersecting each other at right
+angles. The Hokkaido-cho, a high red-brick building, the
+law courts, the <i>Kofikan</i>, the palace built for the Emperor, and
+used now as a kind of hotel, and the houses of officials, are
+the main buildings of the place. There are, besides, a sugar
+refinery, a hemp and silk factory, and a brewery, mainly
+supported by the Government. Neither of the first two were
+"flourishing industries," and one of the factories, if I remember
+aright, had long ceased working, and the other was soon to
+follow suit. The Government, I must say, have done their
+best to encourage and push on industries as well as agriculture
+in this district, but their efforts have produced but poor
+results. Machinery, which had been imported at great
+expense from England, America, Germany, and France, was
+left to rust and perish, and no private company seemed ready
+to continue the works. As a farming region the Sappro
+district has also proved more or less a failure from a financial
+point of view, though again the Government cannot but be
+highly praised for the money they have spent in trying to
+educate the people up to some kind of scientific, and therefore
+paying, method of agriculture. They have a large model
+farm of about 350 acres laid down in grain fields, as well as in
+meadows and pastures, stocked with cattle imported mainly
+from America. In the Toyoshira valley, south of the town, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>
+cattle farm is in full operation, but it yields the Government a
+very poor return. However, the Government, I believe, only
+wish to teach the people foreign ways of agriculture, and
+expect no direct returns for the pains taken and the money
+sunk&mdash;so at least it would appear. Another colonial militia
+settlement is also found near Baratte, eight miles north of
+Sappro. Regarding these settlements, it may prove interesting
+to transcribe the Imperial Ordinance No. 181, dated August
+28th, 1890, by which they were brought into existence and
+the Tondens were built:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 1.&mdash;Colonial Militia shall be composed of colonial infantry,
+cavalry, and colonial artillery and colonial military engineers,
+and shall be set apart for the defence of Hokkaido, where they shall
+be stationed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 2.&mdash;The Colonial Militia shall be organised as soldiers,
+in addition to their ordinary occupation of farmers; shall live in
+military houses which shall be provided for them, and shall take
+part in military drill, in cultivation, and in farming.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 3.&mdash;The Colonial Militia shall also be composed of volunteers
+from cities and prefectures, and shall change their registered residence
+(<i>Houseki</i>) to Hokkaido, and live there with their families.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 4.&mdash;The term of service of Colonial Militia shall be
+twenty years: the service with the colours being three years, in the
+first reserve four years, and in the second reserve thirteen years.
+Should a colonial militiaman be released from service during his
+term, owing to the attainment of the full age of forty years, or
+through death, or some other cause, a suitable male of the family
+shall be ordered to fulfil the remaining term of service. Such service
+may be remitted if there be no suitable male.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 5.&mdash;The Colonial Militia shall fulfil supplementary
+military service during ten years after the end of service in the
+second reserve, and shall be mobilised in time of war or other
+emergency.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 6.&mdash;The term of each stage of military service under
+Articles 4 and 5 shall be counted from April 1st of the year in which
+the soldier enters the Militia.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 7.&mdash;The terms may be prolonged, even though the
+period for each stage has fully elapsed, should war or other
+emergency, or the requirements of military discipline, or the inspection
+of soldiers (<i>kwampei-shiki</i>) demand the same, or should the
+soldier be then in transit from or to, or be stationed in, a foreign
+country.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>
+<span class="smcap">Supplementary Rules:</span>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 8.&mdash;Colonial Militia enlisted before the carrying out of
+these regulations shall be treated according to the following
+distinctions:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>(<i>a</i>) Those enlisted between the eighth year of Meji and the
+sixteenth year of Meji shall serve in the first reserve
+during four years and in the second reserve during nine
+years.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>b</i>) Those who were enlisted between the seventeenth year of
+Meji and the twentieth shall serve in the first reserve during
+four years from the twenty-fourth year of Meji, and in the
+second reserve after the lapse of the above period during
+twenty years, reckoned from the year in which they were
+enlisted.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>c</i>) Those who were enlisted in the twenty-first year of Meji
+shall serve in the first reserve during four years from the
+twenty-fifth year of Meji, and in the second reserve after
+the lapse of the above period during twenty years, reckoned
+from the year in which they were enlisted.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>d</i>) Those who were enlisted in and after the twenty-second
+year of Meji shall be treated in accordance with these
+regulations.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 9.&mdash;The mode of reckoning the terms of service of
+Colonial Militia levied before the twenty-first year of Meji shall be
+in accordance with Article 6 of these regulations. The term of
+service with the colours of those levied in the twenty-second and
+twenty-third years of Meji shall be counted from the day on which
+they were included in the Colonial Militia, and their term of service
+in the first and second reserves from the day next to the lapse of the
+full term of the former service.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Article</span> 10.&mdash;These regulations shall come into force on and
+after the first day of the fourth month of the twenty-fourth year of
+Meji.</p>
+
+<p>(Colonial Militia.) Imperial Ordinance No. 181.<br /></p>
+
+<p>We hereby give our sanction to the present amendment of the
+regulations relating to Colonial Militia, and order the same to be
+duly promulgated.</p>
+
+<p><span style="margin-left:50%;">(His Imperial Majesty's sign-manual),</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left:60%;">Great Seal.</span></p>
+
+<p><span style="margin-left:5%;">Dated August 29th, 1890.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left:25%;">(Countersigned) <span class="smcap">Count Oyama Iwao</span>,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left:55%;">(Minister of State for War).</span></p>
+<p style="margin-left:5%;">(<i>Japan Daily Mail</i>, September 14th, 1890.)</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>
+Sappro was a civilised place compared to others I had seen
+in Yezo; but it had neither the picturesqueness, nor the
+strangeness, nor yet the interest of more uncivilised spots.</p>
+
+<p>There is no doubt that savagery&mdash;when you have got
+accustomed to it&mdash;is a great deal more fascinating than civilised
+life, and infinitely more so than a base imitation of civilisation.</p>
+
+<p>It might have been thought that after the months of privation
+to which I had been subjected, after all the harassing
+experiences I had gone through, after the accident which had
+made the last thirty days of my journey so agonising, I should
+have been glad to rest in this "London" of the Ainu country,
+at least until I was well again. But in truth this indirectly
+reflected civilisation worried me. The bustle of the people,
+the lights in the streets, the sounds of the <i>Shamesen</i>&mdash;everything
+annoyed me.</p>
+
+<p>His Excellency the Governor, Mr. Nagayama, kindly called
+on me, and when I put on some decent clothes which were
+lent me, he drove me to his house, where I had a lengthy conversation
+on the future of Yezo and the Kurile Islands. He
+seemed to approve of many of the points which I put before
+him, among which I suggested that the exports of sulphur
+from Kushiro, on the south-eastern coast, would be greatly
+increased if it were opened to foreign trade, and I was pleased
+to hear several months later that a motion to that effect was
+proposed in the Japanese Parliament. He also agreed with
+me that Yezo needed roads and railways badly, and that when
+more facile ways of communication should be established along
+the coast and across country, then without doubt Yezo would
+be rich and flourishing.</p>
+
+<p>He expressed sorrow that emigration was not carried on
+on a larger scale from the Southern Island of Japan, and
+that private companies of capitalists in no way helped the
+Government.</p>
+
+<p>His Excellency was also kind enough to drive me round the
+town and show me all the sights of Sappro, including the
+small museum containing zoological specimens from Hokkaido,
+and the implements of the Ainu and the Koro-pok-kuru. A
+huge grizzly bear which had killed two babies and a man is
+now stuffed, and occupies the first small room, while a bottle
+by the side preserves in spirit the head and foot of one baby<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+and some parts of the man which were found in its stomach
+when captured and dissected.</p>
+
+<p>I left Sappro for Otaru by the coal train. Otaru is situated
+on a semicircular well-sheltered bay, which makes it the best
+and only safe port on the western coast of Yezo.</p>
+
+<p>The coast at the mouth of the Ishikari River curves gently
+round, and is exposed to the north as far as Cape Shakotan.
+Otaru is rapidly growing in importance, owing to the fact that
+it is the nearest shipping port to the Poronai coal mines.
+Unfortunately, three small hills, which were being levelled
+when I was there, had greatly interfered with the first laying
+out of the settlement, which accounts for the town being all
+crooked and irregularly planned. It has the appearance of a
+thriving place, and much resembles one of the small seaports
+of Southern Japan. In the main street a go-ahead tailor had
+written over his door the following inscription for the attraction
+of foreign clients: "Tailor. New Forms of every country
+shall be made here." The notice was tempting, and I went in
+to request his services in furnishing me with "new forms," as
+he called them, of English fashion; but to my great regret he
+had come to an end of his stock of goods, and I had to be
+contented with my "old forms," and go on as best I could
+with what I had till I should reach Hakodate, where I had left
+most of my baggage. At Otaru I left all my paraphernalia to
+be shipped to Hakodate by the first ship calling, and I proceeded
+by land on the north and then on the north-west coast.
+I felt that, suffering as I still was, I should keep alive as long
+as I kept moving, as long as I was distracted by new scenery
+and new excitements. I felt that if I were left to myself, not
+pitied or sympathised with, I should be able to drag on and
+conquer in the end. There is nothing, it seems to me, that
+makes people feel so ill or is so enervating as the sympathy
+of friends and the verdict of a doctor. Among civilised people
+nine out of ten do not know whether they are very ill or not
+until the doctor pronounces his opinion, which shows that
+many complaints would be scarcely felt at all if the patient did
+not know the name of his malady, or if he had sufficient determination
+as to prevent his physical pain from becoming a
+moral one as well. We have a proof of this in hypnotism, by
+which sicknesses of many kinds can be cured by impressing on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
+the subject the belief that his body is perfectly free from
+disease. Of course in this case it is a stronger will acting on a
+weaker one, which, so reinforced, is able to overpower the
+physical trouble. Again, I may be allowed to state that
+savages and barbarians, though affected with horrid diseases
+of all kinds, do not seem to suffer from them as much as we
+do. If an Ainu man breaks his leg he does not think for a
+moment of lying in bed for the regulation forty days; first of
+all, because he has no bed to lie on; and next, because the confinement
+and inaction would simply kill him. He may lie
+down on the hard ground for two or three days, after which
+time he crawls about as best he can until nature makes his
+broken bone right again. He does not worry himself much
+about it. Wild animals do the same. If, then, the Ainu, and
+with them savages of other countries, do that, why should not
+I, a human being like them, do the same?</p>
+
+<p>Freed from the encumbrance of my baggage, I set off on a
+good horse down the north coast, and moving from east to
+west. My baggage now consisted of a crutch which I had
+made for myself, a stick, a couple of Japanese <i>kimonos</i>, and
+a few sketch-books.</p>
+
+<p>The travelling was extremely slow, and I shall not dwell at
+length on this part of my journey, for it has no interest in
+connection with the Ainu, as I met with scarcely any. On
+a practicable and pleasant track leading all across the hills
+beyond Oshoro village, a lovely view of the cliffs between that
+place and Yoichi, lying to the west, is to be had. In some
+parts the scenery is really grand. Coming down on the other
+side of the hill, Momonai and Kawamura, two fishermen's
+villages of some importance, are passed, and further west,
+through a picturesque and narrow entrance of rugged volcanic
+rocks, is Yoichi, a large village, which was entirely burnt down
+last year, but has since been built up again. The road to
+Iwanai branches off at Kawamura, across the Shakotan peninsula.
+This peninsula is partly volcanic, partly composed of
+tertiaries, on which metal veins are found, especially along
+the course of the Yoichi River.</p>
+
+<p>About three miles from Yoichi a small flax factory was
+being built as an experiment by a Mr. Tokumatz Kuroda, in
+the employ of the Mitzui Company. Twenty-five miles further<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+south-west of Yoichi is Iwanai. About ten miles from
+Kawamura, at Hando, a black tumbledown shed, like a
+haunted house, stands in the middle of the woods, and from
+here the track again goes over a mountain. On the other
+side is Iwanai. Five or six weeks previous to my arrival
+a large fire had destroyed nearly the whole of the village, and&mdash;just
+my luck again!&mdash;I had great difficulty in finding a place
+in which to obtain shelter for the night.</p>
+
+<p>From Iwanai the coast-line roughly describes a semicircle,
+which is almost concentric with Volcano Bay on the south coast,
+the distance between the two seas being about twenty or
+twenty-five miles, so that it forms a kind of large peninsula
+stretching towards the south, and widening considerably at its
+most southern part on the Tsugaru Strait. The first two or
+three miles from Iwanai were a pretty flat and easy track,
+but then I struck the mountain trail, which was steep and
+heavy for my pony. It was raining in torrents, and the
+narrow track was literally turned into a running rivulet. By
+good luck the rain stopped, and when I reached the summit I
+had a glorious panorama of the brilliant rocks and cliffs of the
+Shakotan Cape to the north-east, with the Kamui and the
+Hurupira Mountains on one side, and the villages of Shiribets,
+Isoya, and Karibayama along the coast on the other. I
+descended into the valley and then went up again the next
+mountain, the Iwaonobori, a higher peak than the first. I
+went down its slopes on the other side in a zig-zag fashion,
+and then came to the snake-like river called Shiribets, on
+both sides of which a few fishermen's houses are found, forming
+the Shiribets village.</p>
+
+<p>Three miles further is a larger settlement, Isoya, the half of
+which is called Notto Isoya, the other Shimakotan Isoya. It
+is a long row of fishermen's houses scattered along the coast
+until we get to Ushoro, eight miles further, a settlement of
+120 houses.</p>
+
+<p>Ushoro is connected by a road to Oshamambe, on Volcano
+Bay, but I went on to Shitzo, four miles north-west of Ushoro.
+The way was fairly good in some parts, and execrably
+bad in others. The heavy rain which had again come on
+was not exactly suited to my present state of health; moreover,
+it swelled all the small brooks, which fell in a series<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>
+of picturesque waterfalls over the high cliffs down on to the
+beach. As the beach was narrow, this meant each time a cold
+shower-bath, which, however, did not much matter, for I was
+already drenched by the rain, and I had no very "swell"
+garments to spoil, as my readers know.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 332px;">
+<img src="images/illus-194.png" width="332" height="400" alt="AINU HALF-CASTE CHILD OF VOLCANO BAY" />
+<span class="caption">AINU HALF-CASTE CHILD OF VOLCANO BAY.</span></div>
+
+<p>Shitzo is an old-looking place, but there is nothing attractive
+about it. It is in a small bay sheltered by Cape Benke, but
+its anchorage is only fit for junks or very small skiffs. It is
+much exposed to northerly and easterly winds. The coast
+from Shitzo to the Cape is lined with rocky bluffs and cliffs of
+conglomerate and volcanic formation, with bare hills inland.</p>
+
+<p>There are many reefs stretching out, both along the coast
+and off the Cape; but in many places channels are cut in
+them, to all appearance produced by some remote volcanic
+action.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>
+On the western side of Cape Benke is the village of Masatomari.
+There were formerly some Ainu villages on this part
+of the coast, but hardly any natives are to be found now. The
+few remaining have adopted to a certain extent Japanese
+customs and manners.</p>
+
+<p>At Baraputa I heard that it was impossible to continue my
+journey south on horseback along the coast, for the track was
+almost impassable, even on foot. It was a steep and difficult
+trail over the mountains, among rocks and precipitous cliffs,
+and I was quite unable to accomplish it; so I retraced my steps
+to Shitzo, and from there struck across the peninsula on the
+road for Oshamambe, on Volcano Bay. The road is a good
+one, and when bridges are built where needed it will be practicable
+for <i>bashas</i>, the four-wheeled vehicles of Southern Yezo.
+The way is across mountains or among well-wooded hills.
+Kuromatsunai is the largest group of houses found along the
+road. It is about halfway between the two coasts.</p>
+
+<p>Late at night, after having ridden twenty-five miles, I arrived
+at Oshamambe, a semi-Ainu village on Volcano Bay.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 352px;">
+<img src="images/illus-196.jpg" width="352" height="232" alt="KOMATAGE VOLCANO, VOLCANO BAY" />
+<span class="caption">KOMATAGE VOLCANO, VOLCANO BAY.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIX.<br />
+<span class="small">Completing the Circuit of Yezo&mdash;The End of my Journey.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Oshamambe is a group of seventy houses, just midway
+between Mororran and Mori. The Ainu of this bay are poor
+specimens of their race, as most of them have intermarried
+with Japanese. They are, however, those most talked about
+by Europeans, for they are of easy access to globe-trotters.</p>
+
+<p>They are mostly half-castes, and even second and third
+crosses; wherefore it is no wonder that the incautious travellers
+who have written on the Ainu, studying only these
+easily-visited specimens, have discovered in them a remarkable
+likeness to the Japanese!</p>
+
+<p>The fact that I was rapidly nearing the end of my trip half
+filled me with pleasure, yet pleasure mingled with regret. It
+was nearly six weeks now since I met with the accident to
+my foot, and I was decidedly better. The cold weather had
+greatly contributed to this improvement of my condition; and
+had it not been for my bone which kept sticking out of my skin,
+I should have considered myself in fine case. I could hop
+along with my self-made crutch and my stick, and when riding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>
+the pain was not nearly as acute as it had been the first fifteen
+or twenty days.</p>
+
+<p>As the road was good, and there was nothing interesting to
+me on this portion of the journey, I tried to push on rapidly
+towards Mori. Unfortunately, at the last minute my patience
+was put to a trial. I hired a horse, and it was lame. No
+others were to be had that day for love or money. The
+animal had been lame for two years, they said, and though
+uncomfortable to ride he did not suffer any pain. This I
+ascertained afterwards was true, for that day the sturdy brute
+carried me 48½ miles without once requiring punishment. It
+is needless to say that what I suffered that day by the continuous
+jerking is beyond description. I rode fourteen hours
+in a fearful storm of rain and snow, and my feverish anxiety
+to reach Hakodate soon, so that I might receive letters, and
+have news of my parents and friends&mdash;from whom I had
+not heard for five months&mdash;helped me to pull through all the
+fatigue and worry of the way. The road between Oshamambe
+and Kunnui is fair, getting still better towards Yurap and
+Yamakushinai. But to shorten the journey and lessen the
+jerking I followed the sandy sea-beach, which, describing a
+smaller circle than the road, necessarily diminishes the distance.
+From Yamakushinai the road is very good and wide, and it has
+nicely-built bridges over the Otoshibe and Nigori Rivers. The
+small fishing villages, though not so imposing in appearance as
+some of those in other parts of Yezo, add to the picturesqueness
+of the bay, with its beautiful volcanic cone of Komagatage
+towering in the distance towards the south-east.</p>
+
+<p>The fishing in Volcano Bay consists mostly of mackerel,
+sprats, halibut, and herrings.</p>
+
+<p>I reached Mori late in the evening, and was received with a
+friendly greeting by the people of the tea-house in which I had
+stayed on my way up at the beginning of my journey.</p>
+
+<p>The place was brilliantly lighted with numberless candles,
+and opposite the entrance was a kind of altar decked with
+flowers and cakes. A few <i>bonzes</i>, with their shaven heads and
+long, thin, depraved fingers, were saying their prayers and
+beating with a small wand on the round wooden bells. With
+the gods of Japan you must ring a bell or clap your hands
+before you begin to pray, or else the god will pay no attention<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>
+to your petitions. In the next room another Japanese, with
+less depraved fingers, but with a more wicked face, was dressed
+in European clothes, and was apparently giving a sermon,
+and sure enough he proved to be a native Christian minister!</p>
+
+<p>"Hallo!" said I to the landlord; "what does all this
+mean?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh," said he, smiling&mdash;for Buddhism teaches you not to
+show pain&mdash;"my old mother is dead. You saw her when you
+were here before. She died yesterday, and as she was formerly
+a Buddhist and had become a Christian, I have now got some
+Buddhist <i>bonzes</i> and a Christian minister to pray for her, for I
+want her to be happy in the other world."</p>
+
+<p>"But do you not think," I replied, "that so much praying
+of different kinds might interfere with her happiness?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, no, your honourable," he said quickly, "I have paid
+the <i>bonzes</i> and the clergyman in advance, and the gods cannot
+get angry now!"</p>
+
+<p>It was curious to notice the competition between the representatives
+of the two different creeds.</p>
+
+<p>On the one side the Christian shouted his prayers and sang
+his hymns in a stentorian voice, to put the <i>bonzes</i> in the shade
+and get the start of them in the contest; and on the other side
+these rattled on the wooden bells with all their might, so that
+their prayers should be heard first. I was more than happy
+when this religious race was over, and I was allowed a few
+hours' rest.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of going straight to Hakodate by <i>basha</i> by the
+road I had already once traversed, I followed the coast in a
+south-easterly direction towards the volcano of Esan.</p>
+
+<p>Near Usushiri, some two miles inland, are the hot springs
+of Obune, where, in a picturesque gully surrounded by
+mountains, are two dirty shanties for the benefit of those who
+wish to take the waters. At Isoya, five miles north of this
+place, similar springs are found, and three and a half miles
+south-east of Usushiri still more can be seen at Kakumi. The
+latter place is a picturesque little spot, with its three old sheds
+and the steaming bath-room framed in the multi-coloured
+foliage of trees with their lovely autumn tints. A clean path
+a few hundred yards long leads from the coast to the springs,
+and a track across the mountains is found between that place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>
+and Hakodate; also another leading from Obune to the latter
+port. By both these tracks a most lovely view of Hakodate
+Bay can be obtained when the summit of the mountain range
+is reached. From Kakumi the coast-line is wretched for
+travelling, set thick as it is with stones as sharp as knives,
+while the waves continually wash over the narrow beach,
+drenching the wayfarer to the skin.</p>
+
+<p>I reached Otatsube, a group of a few fishermen's huts; and
+as there is no traffic whatever along this coast, there were
+no regular tea-houses. Unfortunately for me, the British
+Squadron in the Pacific had spent the summer at Hakodate,
+and the ships had often gone for gun-practice somewhere near
+this place, scaring the natives to death, and furthermore
+angering them against foreigners in general, for they said the
+report of the guns frightened away all the fish. When I
+asked for food and offered money for it, they flatly refused
+me, saying contemptuously,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"You foreigners come and scare all the fish away, and now
+you shall die of starvation before you shall get food from us.
+We do not want your money. We are rich."</p>
+
+<p>And so I was held responsible for the doings of Her
+Majesty's fleet, which until then I did not even know had been
+in those waters!</p>
+
+<p>At Furimbé, the next small village, only a few miles further
+on, my experience was even more unpleasant. Not only
+would they not give me food, but they would not shelter me
+for the night in any of the houses; and many of the fishermen,
+taking advantage of my wretched condition, were impudent
+to such a point that I thought we should have come
+to blows.</p>
+
+<p>It was getting quite dark, and I was fearfully hungry and
+exhausted. The only course open to me was to push on, and
+see if I could come across some other hut where the owners
+were not so churlish. As it turned out, for the first time since
+I had been in Hokkaido I had some good luck that night!</p>
+
+<p>A few hundred yards from this Japanese village, among the
+trees, was a little wooden shrine. Through the grating of the
+door I caught sight of offerings of cakes and rice which the
+religious fishermen had deposited on the kind of altar, probably
+to appease the angry gods, and induce them to fill the sea with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>
+fish again. The door of the shrine, as is usual in country
+places in Japan, was not locked, but a small outside bolt was all
+there was to keep it closed. I had no difficulty in entering.
+The night was a terrible one. The rain was pouring in
+torrents, and having had nothing to eat all day, I felt I had
+not the strength to go another yard. "After all," I said to
+myself, "the home of the gods, Japanese or not, is good enough
+for me. So is this supper," I soliloquized, swallowing now a
+white cake, now a red one, then a green one, till nothing but
+the empty vessels were left. "Delicious" was my last word,
+when, smacking my lips over the last green cake, I proceeded
+to make myself comfortable for the night. It is needless
+to add that I left very early in the morning, when the
+first rays of light broke the dimness of the night, and I dare
+say that, for the sake of morality, I ought to add that I was
+sorry for committing the sacrilege; but I was not&mdash;indeed
+I was not!</p>
+
+<p>The mountain track continued, rough and steep in many
+places, and the autumn tints on the foliage were lovely, though
+not as varied as those of Northern America. Past Todohotke
+another volcano, the Esan, stared me in the face. Its crater,
+or rather its craters, for there are several, are not on the
+summit of the mountain, which is well rounded, but nearly
+halfway down its western slopes. Accumulations of very
+pure sulphur are deposited in and around these craters, and a
+continuous rumbling can be heard inside the mountain. The
+craters eject sulphurous vapours, and molten lava bubbles up
+as if in gigantic caldrons, congealing at the mouths of the
+craters and cracking with the extreme heat.</p>
+
+<p>The coast-line is precipitous and almost impassable round
+Cape Esan, therefore the track leads over the mountain. The
+altitude of Esan is 1740 feet above the sea-level, but owing to
+its rising directly from the sea it has the look of a much more
+lofty mountain. Komagatage, near Mori, is 4,011, or more than
+double the height of Esan, while Makkarinupuri volcano, or
+Shiribeshi Mountain, as others call it, about forty-five miles
+south-west of Sappro, and ten miles north of Toya Lake,
+reaches an altitude of 6,440 feet.</p>
+
+<p>Iwaonobori, which I passed on the north coast in this latter
+part of my journey, is 3,374 feet. Usu, on Volcano Bay,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>
+1868 feet. Tarumai, directly south of Sappro, only reaches a
+height of 2,800 feet.</p>
+
+<p>When this volcanic part of the coast round Esan Cape is
+passed the track becomes easier and flatter. One comes again
+to the sandy beaches, and the coast is lively with numbers of
+fishermen's huts, and a couple of villages like Shirikishinai
+and Toi. One day's journey on horseback from here takes
+you to Hakodate. The Hakodate Peak can be seen in the
+distance to the west; and only a few more hours, only a
+few more miles, and I should be in civilisation, I should
+see a few European faces, and I should hear English spoken
+again.</p>
+
+<p>As I approached the sandy isthmus, and the peak grew
+bigger before me, I wondered what had been going on in the
+world, and what news I should receive of my dear ones. I
+imagined myself already devouring with my eyes the hundreds
+of letters which must have been amassed at Hakodate, waiting
+for me during the many months I had been away. I imagined
+myself half buried in newspapers months old, anxiously reading
+the news of the world. I hurried on my pony, I crossed
+the sand isthmus&mdash;and there I was in the lively streets of
+Hakodate, gazed at by the astonished Japanese, who, I
+believe, were more than a little amazed&mdash;perhaps scandalised&mdash;at
+my turn-out.</p>
+
+<p>Such as I was, and before I went to the Japanese tea-house,
+I called at the Consulate for my correspondence. Her
+Britannic Majesty's representative, who knew me well enough,
+was more than thunderstruck when I appeared before him in
+such a strange attire. He was smoking a pipe, and he almost
+let it drop, such was his surprise.</p>
+
+<p>"Who are you?" he feebly exclaimed, looking me all over
+from head to foot. "Surely you are not Landor?" he said
+when I told him my name.</p>
+
+<p>"I believe I am," I answered, "and I have come to trouble
+you for my letters."</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, none have come; we have none," he said drily.</p>
+
+<p>And now that I was not quite so well dressed as when I
+had called on my arrival at Hakodate from Southern Japan,
+he seemed anxious to see me off the premises as soon as
+possible, I dare say for fear lest I should expire on his doorstep.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>
+"But there <i>must</i> be some letters," I said, as I was sadly
+leaving.</p>
+
+<p>"No, there are none. Good-bye," he repeated.</p>
+
+<p>The first glimpse of civilisation and of a civilised being was
+certainly not a pleasing one. In a town where there are
+hardly half-a-dozen British subjects, all told, I expected a
+better reception than one which many would not bestow on a
+beggar to a compatriot in a foreign country. Kindness costs
+nothing, and I was asking no favour.</p>
+
+<p>I left the place disheartened, but feeling that the pompous
+official had made a blunder, unluckily at my expense.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Henson, in whose house I had left all my luggage,
+greeted me with open arms. He was kindness itself, and very
+different from the gold-collared gentleman of the Consulate.
+I must say that I felt most uncomfortable when, after having
+opened my trunks, I put on fresh clothes and boots; in fact,
+such was the change from my late airy costume that I caught
+a cold! I had now almost finished my self-imposed task. I
+had made the whole circuit of Yezo, and been up all its
+largest rivers, with the exception of that part of the western
+coast which lies between Barabuta and Hakodate. It would
+mean only a few more days of agony, and for the sake of
+completing my journey I left Hakodate again the next
+morning at 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> in a <i>basha</i> for Esashi, on the west coast.
+The distance is fifty-seven miles, and we employed sixteen
+hours in covering it. It was snowing when we crossed the
+hills, and it was fearfully cold. Fortunately, the road is one
+of the best in Hokkaido. Just in front of me sat a poor man
+piteously ill with <i>kaki</i>. His body was dreadfully swollen and
+his limbs were stiff. What the poor man must have suffered
+in being shaken for so many hours is beyond description.
+His lamentations were heartrending. He had come to
+Hakodate in the hope of getting cured, and now he was
+returning&mdash;to use his words&mdash;"to die near his home." When
+we reached Esashi he was truly more dead than alive. He
+was senseless, and had to be lifted up bodily and carried into
+the house.</p>
+
+<p>Esashi is a large place, and is one of the oldest towns in
+Yezo. In front lies a small oblong island, with which various
+wonderful tales of treasure are connected. Its harbour is too<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>
+unsafe, being exposed to all winds, and I was told that the
+sea is always rough except during the months of July and
+August. I believe that this is greatly due to the currents.</p>
+
+<p>I went north to Kumaishi and Cape Ota, the most westerly
+point of Yezo. About ten miles west of this cape is the
+small island of Okushiri, peopled mostly by Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>The track is tolerably fair for about twenty-four miles as far
+as Kumaishi. It runs either along the beach or around clay
+and conglomerate rocky points, occasionally over the cliffs
+and through ravines. North of Esashi, along the Assap
+River, is a good stretch of cultivable land; then the thickly-wooded
+mountainous region begins again towards the north.</p>
+
+<p>Kumaishi is said to be the best district for herring fishing
+along that coast.</p>
+
+<p>From Kumaishi to Kudo numerous reefs extend out at sea,
+and small headlands afford a safe anchorage to junks. The
+track is mostly on a rough coast backed by high and well-wooded
+hills. Striking across the mountains, which rise sheer
+from the sea, we come to Cape Ota, the most westerly point
+of Yezo. From here the coast turns towards the north-east
+as far as Barabuta; but as it was impossible for me to go on
+horseback to that place, though only a few miles distant, I
+turned back and returned to Esashi, then following the coast
+towards the south to Matsumai or Fukuyama, one of the first
+Japanese settlements established in Yezo, and formerly the
+capital of the island. The coast is rugged and picturesque
+from Esashi to the two villages of Kaminokumi and Shiofuki,
+after which a mountain path leads to Ishisaki.</p>
+
+<p>I found the Japanese on this coast most polite and honest,
+and more like the "old Japanese" than the younger generations.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs on the south side of the Ishizaki River were
+resplendent in beauty under the brilliant red and yellow light
+of the setting sun. Oshima (or Large Island) could be seen on
+the horizon in the distant south. Five miles further, across
+a mountain track, I came to Cisango, and five more miles
+beyond that place landed me at Haraguchi, two small fishing
+villages, with houses resting on high posts and against the
+cliffs, somewhat similar to the villages I found previous to
+my reaching the Ishikari River.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>
+After that are eight or ten miles of a monotonous hilly road,
+where you do nothing but ascend and descend one small hill
+after another, up and down a snake-like or a zig-zag path;
+but when Eramachi is passed the track becomes much more
+interesting, with its peculiar groups of rocks of all shapes
+sticking out of the sea, and the long line of reef over which
+the breakers roll foaming and thundering. From here by the
+side of Oshima, another small island, "Koshima," is seen on
+the horizon. Going south the coast gradually gets more and
+more picturesque, with its pretty little fishing villages hidden
+among the rocks and sheltered under the high cliffs. At
+Neptka a good road leads over the cliffs to Fukuyama.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile before the town is reached, from a high point
+of vantage on the road, is a pretty peep of Benten Island, just
+off the shore, with an old temple on it, and by its side a new
+lighthouse. On the shore, a few yards from the road opposite
+the island, a large rock is literally covered with hundreds of
+stone images of Amida and different gods, and two <i>Torii</i>,
+sacred emblems of Japan, are placed in front of it.</p>
+
+<p>I descended the slope gently and reached Koromatsumai,
+otherwise called Matsumai, or Fukuyama. It is a "dear old
+spot," the most picturesque of all the towns in Hokkaido. It
+is ancient, for one thing, while other places are modern&mdash;some
+villages, indeed, only a year or two old, or even less. Thus
+weather has toned down the light yellow colour of the new
+wood, which is so offensive to the eye in a landscape, and is so
+common in all Japanese villages of Yezo. Besides, Fukuyama
+has pretty temples on the surrounding hills, and prettily-laid-out
+gardens with tiny stone bridges, bronze lanterns, and
+dwarfed trees. It is more like a town of old Japan. It has a
+three-storied castle with turned-up roofs, as one sees on the
+willow-pattern plates.</p>
+
+<p>The castle, formerly the residence of the Daimio, a feudal
+prince, is now a restaurant. The irregular streets of the town,
+the narrow lanes, the houses blackened by smoke and age,
+give a certain <i>cachet</i> which is peculiar to the place itself.
+The inhabitants, too, are more conservative than the younger
+colonists, and are quite "in keeping" with the place. Unluckily,
+the town has seen better days! It possesses no
+good harbour, and all its trade, little by little, is being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+carried away by its more fortunate rival, Hakodate. The
+population of Matsumai decreases considerably every year, as
+the inhabitants leave this poetical but dead-alive and decaying
+spot for the more exciting life to be found in newly-opened
+districts further east or north.</p>
+
+<p>Between Fukuyama and Hakodate, a distance of over sixty
+miles, the road is extremely bad, and there is nothing whatever
+to see. Shirakami Cape is interesting as being the most
+southern point of Yezo, and from here the coast turns slightly
+towards the north-east.</p>
+
+<p>Fukushima is an old village. The other headlands, and the
+Cape of Yagoshi, have no special features calling for attention.
+Near the latter cape the coast is volcanic, which renders it very
+rugged in shape and warmly tinted in colour. There are
+many villages along the coast, as Yoshioka, Shiriuchi, Kikonai,
+Idzumizawa, Mohechi, and Kamiiro, and the inhabitants seem
+well off and well-to-do people.</p>
+
+<p>A great quantity of coal and firewood is carried on pony-back
+from these mountains to Hakodate. Rows of ten, twelve,
+or fifteen ponies one after the other, loaded with as much as
+they can carry, can be seen slowly travelling, under the care of
+one man, down to the principal port of Yezo, especially at the
+beginning of the winter season; and here and there stacks of
+split wood are piled ready for transportation.</p>
+
+<p>Rounding the Hakodate Bay, I was again at the point whence
+I had first started, and happy that, notwithstanding all the ill-luck
+I had had, notwithstanding the strain on my physique,
+which is not by any means herculean, and notwithstanding all
+the obstacles which had come in my way, I had finally succeeded
+in doing what no European had ever done before,
+namely, in completing the whole circuit of Yezo at one time,
+exploring all its most important rivers and lakes, studying the
+habits, customs, and manners of that strange race of people,
+the Hairy Ainu, and visiting the Kuriles besides.</p>
+
+<p>Many parts which I travelled over had never been trodden
+by European foot, and this made my journey all the more
+interesting to me. As the book stands I have related but the
+principal adventures which I had during my long peregrinations
+in Hokkaido, most of which are intended to illustrate
+Ainu customs and traits by my own personal experience rather<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>
+than to excite sympathy for my hardships. Really, though
+the journey nearly cost me my life, I have never, in my
+extensive wanderings, enjoyed a trip more than that to
+Ainuland.</p>
+
+<p>I have touched but slightly, and not more than was absolutely
+necessary, on subjects relating to the Japanese; for this
+is intended as a work on the Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>I was happy yet sorry to be at the end of my journey!
+This was the 146th day since I first left Hakodate, and the
+distance I had travelled was about 4,200 miles, out of which
+3,800 were ridden on horseback, or an average of twenty-five
+miles a day. The remaining 400 miles were either by steamer
+or canoe travelling.</p>
+
+<p>From the day I broke the bone in my foot I travelled fifty-eight
+days, mostly on horseback, and the first time it was
+attended to and properly bandaged up was sixty days after it
+occurred, or two days after my arrival in Hakodate, by Mr.
+Pooley, chief engineer on board the <span class="smcap">ss.</span> <i>Satsuma Maru</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Henson was again extremely kind, and pressed me to
+leave the tea-house and go and stay at his place, and after
+five months of "hard planks" I slept again in a comfortable
+bed. What a treat it was! What a curious sensation to sleep
+in a bed again, and actually have sheets and blankets! But
+this was not all, for surprise followed surprise.</p>
+
+<p>The pompous Consul, who for the sake of saving himself
+the trouble of looking into his desk, had made my last portion
+of the journey wretched and sorrowful, found that after all
+he was mistaken, and on the breakfast-table in my place I
+found a packet of about 100 letters and newspapers, which the
+Consul sent to me with a message saying that when I called
+last time he had forgotten who I was, and therefore had forgotten
+to give me my correspondence!</p>
+
+<p>Now that we have travelled round and through the country
+in every direction; now that we have seen where the different
+tribes of Ainu are, I shall attempt to give my readers some
+insight into the Ainu themselves, and their mode of living.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-207.png" width="400" height="66" alt="WOODEN DRINKING VESSELS" />
+<span class="caption">WOODEN DRINKING VESSELS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XX.<br />
+<span class="small">Ainu Habitations, Storehouses, Trophies, Furniture&mdash;Conservatism.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Ainu architecture is by no means elaborate, let alone
+beautiful; but though it is so simple, it is to a certain extent
+varied, differing according to the exigencies of climate and
+locality. Huts of one district vary from those of another not
+only in small details, but also in the whole shape; or if the
+shape is the same, the materials are different.</p>
+
+<p>The principal characteristics of the Volcano Bay and Saru
+River huts is, that they have angular roofs and are thatched
+with tall reeds and arundinaria, while the huts up the Tokachi
+River are more often covered with bark, though in form they
+are almost identical with those others.</p>
+
+<p>On the Kutcharo Lake, again, the huts are thatched with
+tall reeds like those of Volcano Bay, but the building itself has
+a totally different shape. The roof is semicircular, and each
+hut is in appearance like the half of a cylinder lying on its
+rectangular base.</p>
+
+<p>On the north-east coast the huts have either roofs similar
+to the Kutcharo ones, or else the angle is very obtuse instead
+of being sharp, as with the Piratori or Volcano Bay huts.</p>
+
+<p>In the Kuriles, at Shikotan, the Ainu have houses exactly
+similar to those at Piratori.</p>
+
+<p>Setting aside the varieties of form, we shall now consider
+how the huts are built. A frame is first made by horizontally
+lashing at short intervals long poles to others at the angles of
+the roof. Often the roof is made first and lifted up bodily
+on the forked poles on which it rests. Then long reeds and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>
+arundinaria are collected in sufficient quantity to thatch the
+frame thickly on each side. Other poles or rafters are then
+placed over these reeds, and through them lashed tightly to
+the under frame, thus preventing the thatch from being blown
+or washed away. Care is taken to leave an opening for the
+door; and the small east window&mdash;usually the only one in
+Ainu huts&mdash;is cut out afterwards by means of a knife. Ainu
+huts have never more than one storey and never more than one
+room and a small porch. In districts where the climate is less
+severe the porch is often dispensed with. In building their
+habitations the hairy people make no attempt whatever at
+symmetry or beauty; all they aim at is to make themselves a
+shelter and nothing more.</p>
+
+<p>There are no more professional architects than professionals
+of any other kind in the Ainu country. Each man is his own
+architect, builder, and carpenter. He may occasionally receive
+the help of a neighbour when he is building his hut, if all
+hands in the family are not sufficient to carry him through
+his work.</p>
+
+<p>Each family has its own hut, which is used day and night by
+all the members. If one of the sons gets married he sometimes
+brings his bride to live in his father's hut, or else he goes to
+live in his bride's hut; but as the "hairy mother-in-law" is no
+better than other "mothers-in-law," the end of this arrangement
+is that generally the bridegroom has to build a habitation
+for himself and his better-half. Fortunately for him, he has to
+pay no ground-rent; nor has he to take a lease, nor pay the
+lawyer for an agreement, nor yet to buy the ground nor the
+materials on which and of which his not too luxurious abode
+is to be built. He chooses the site which is most suitable to
+him, and there he builds his hut as best he can; and no one is
+any the worse or the wiser for it. The "furnishing" is a matter
+of no consideration with the Ainu, as he prefers to live in an
+"unfurnished house." By instalments, however, as he finds
+his floor becoming rather damp, he provides himself with a
+few rough planks, which afford him comfortable sleeping
+accommodation; and during the winter, when fishing is not
+practicable, and he spends most of his day at home, he roughly
+carves for himself a moustache-lifter (the <i>Kike-ush-bashui</i>);
+a small paddle, the <i>Hera</i> (which is used both to stir the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>
+wine and as an implement in weaving); a pestle and mortar
+carved out of the trunk of a tree; and, if he be a very ambitious
+person and fond of his wife, he will probably make her a
+weaving loom as well as two or three "water-jugs" if we may
+call them so&mdash;vessels made of bark bent into shape, and lashed
+so strongly as to be water-tight, and used for carrying water
+as needed.</p>
+
+<p>A few wooden bowls, a wooden hook, which is suspended
+over the fire when bear-meat is smoked, occasionally a <i>Kinna</i>
+(a mat), and a skin or two, are all the articles of furniture of
+Ainu manufacture which an Ainu can possess, though few of
+them possess so many. The Ainu hut has a fire-place in the
+centre, or rather, a fire is lighted in the centre of the hut. The
+fire is lighted with a flint and steel&mdash;a method learned from the
+Japanese&mdash;or by the friction of two sticks. The more civilised
+Ainu have now adopted matches. A hole in the angle of the
+roof acts as chimney, but unfortunately more in name than in
+practice.</p>
+
+<p>Chairs, stools, sofas, beds, tables, etc., are all things unknown
+to the Ainu. While inspecting the hut it may be
+as well to see how the weaving-loom, the most complicated
+article of the Ainu household, is made and worked. There is
+a "yarn beam" (the <i>Kammakappe</i>), on which the "warp" of
+unwoven thread is wound and kept separated, and another
+"roll" by which the warp threads in the process of weaving
+are kept in tension between the two gratings. There then is
+the <i>Poro-usa</i> (the "large grating"), through the intervals of
+which the warp threads pass, and the <i>Usa</i>, a similar but smaller
+grating placed on the other side of the roll.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-209.png" width="400" height="167" alt="WEAVING IMPLEMENTS." /></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>
+The cloth is wound round a stick which rests on the lap of
+the weaver, and is kept in tension by means of her wrists;
+and at the same time the <i>Ahunkanitte</i> (the "shuttle"), is passed
+between the two sets of warp threads carrying the transverse
+thread, or "woof," from one side of the cloth to the other
+and back again. This is then beaten up by means of a long
+shuttle like a netting mesh, which first draws the weft into its
+place, and is then used to beat it up. In some ways this form
+of loom is similar to that of India. The "netting mesh" is
+called <i>Atzis-Hera</i>. Finally, the <i>Pekoatnit</i> is a bi-forked instrument
+for separating the threads.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-210a.png" width="400" height="53" alt="WEAVING IMPLEMENTS." /></div>
+
+<p>It is needless to say that with this primitive and homemade
+loom it takes a very long time to weave a very short
+piece of cloth; but as time is not money with Ainu women,
+and patience is one of their virtues, it answers their purpose,
+and they wish for nothing better.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-210b.png" width="400" height="68" alt="ATZIS-CLOTH IN PROCESS OF WEAVING" />
+<span class="caption">ATZIS-CLOTH IN PROCESS OF WEAVING.</span></div>
+
+<p>The thread used for manufacturing the cloth is made of the
+inner fibre of the <i>Ulmus campestris</i> bark. At the beginning
+of the spring the elm bark is peeled off the trees and is put
+in water to soak and soften until the inner fibres can be
+separated, made into threads, and wound up round reeds.
+The material woven from these threads is very coarse and
+brittle, except in wet weather or when soaked in water, in
+which case clothes made of it cannot be worn out.</p>
+
+<p>The weaving is usually plain, but sometimes a simple
+pattern of black parallel lines is woven in with the material.
+The natural colour of the elm-fibre thread is dark yellow, and
+the black lines are composed of the same thread stained.</p>
+
+<p>The other contrivance in Ainu huts which strikes one as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>
+being simple but clever is the hook suspended over the fire.
+The rope is passed over a rafter. One end of it is fastened to
+the hook, the other, as shown in the illustration, to
+a piece of wood through which the hook has previously
+been passed.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 83px;">
+<img src="images/illus-211.png" width="83" height="282" alt="ROASTING HOOK" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROASTING HOOK.</span></div>
+
+<p>Mat-making is closely allied to weaving, and is
+worked entirely on the same principle, but without
+the aid of any kind of machinery. The bulrushes
+are crossed and woven coarsely, and plaited flat.
+One of these mats is used in Ainu huts as a door&mdash;"the
+<i>Apa Otki</i>." A smaller one is hung over or by
+the window.</p>
+
+<p>Naturally, Ainu huts are somewhat draughty.
+The imperfectness of the door and window-fittings,
+the large outlet for the smoke, besides the wind
+which finds its way through the thatched walls,
+make Ainu dwellings "ideal" to anyone wishing to "catch
+his death of cold." The Ainu do not much mind it.</p>
+
+<p>The roof is low, and from it hang the winter provisions of
+dried salmon captured during the autumn. This gives an
+additional odour to the already strong scent of the hut&mdash;an
+"ancient fish-like smell," not redolent of the perfumes of
+Arabia. The smoke inside the hut is so dense when there
+happens to be a fire burning that one's eyes stream with
+involuntary tears, and one is nearly choked. When the days
+are short in winter the Ainu sometimes light their dwellings
+with a stick to which is fastened a piece of animal fat. It is
+hung up aloft, and when the lower end is lighted the fat slowly
+melting serves to feed the flame and keep this primitive lamp
+alight. Another mode of illumination is by firing a lighted
+piece of birch bark on a stick previously split at the upper
+end. The third way is by filling a large shell with fish-oil
+and burning in it a few strings of elm-fibre. None of these
+methods come much into use for everyday life, as, unlike the
+negroes, the Ainu are not fond of sitting up at night, except
+on extraordinary occasions; and when by chance they do sit
+up it is by the light of the fire only.</p>
+
+<p>If a stranger stops for the night in an Ainu hut, he is made
+to sleep directly under the east window; but the family take
+good care to sleep all together on the north side, which is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>
+most distant point from the door and the window. Occasional
+callers are received on the side nearest to the door.</p>
+
+<p>The few Ainu who possess mats on which they sit during
+the day hang them up at night round the hut, probably to
+protect themselves from the liberal ventilation, which even
+those who are used to it find trying when a gale is blowing or
+the thermometer is very low.</p>
+
+<p>There is no particular spot inside the hut set apart for
+meals, and the refuse is either thrown into a corner of the hut
+or flung outside the door and left there. It is difficult to say
+whether the inside or the outside of an Ainu hut is the dirtier.
+Heaps of stinking refuse are accumulated round the dwellings,
+and in summer-time these heaps are alive with vermin&mdash;mosquitoes,
+flies, <i>abu</i>, and black-flies. It is quite sufficient to move
+a step from the door to see a cloud of these noxious insects
+rise, and each one of them will have a bite at you.</p>
+
+<p>Inside the house you are no better off. <i>Taikki</i> (fleas) are
+innumerable, and of all sizes, not to mention other well-known
+but usually anonymous enemies of the human skin.</p>
+
+<p>The first night I slept in an Ainu hut, though I was provided
+with insecticide powder, I was literally covered with
+bites. With my fondness for statistics I proceeded to count
+them, and only from my ankle to my knee I counted as many
+as 220. The rest of my body and my head were covered in
+the same proportion, but I gave up the attempt to ascertain
+the exact number&mdash;the task was too overwhelming. My skin,
+however, got so inflamed by these bites as to produce fever,
+which lasted two or three days. After that time I never again
+suffered to such an extent, perhaps owing to the fact that no
+free spot was left to attack, or may be from that curious process
+called acclimatisation.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu huts are built entirely above ground, and are
+used alike in winter and summer.</p>
+
+<p>In olden times the hut was always destroyed at the death
+of its owner, or when abandoned; but in the former case the
+custom is seldom practised now, and in the latter they are
+merely left to decay.</p>
+
+<p>It is singular that migrating Ainu, coming across an
+uninhabited hut, never live in it, but build a new one for
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>
+The Kurilsky Ainu until quite recently destroyed their
+huts when migrating from one island to another. They also
+burnt the huts of deceased persons. It is needless to say that
+the Ainu have no churches, no hotels, no hospitals, and no
+public buildings of any kind. The huts in villages are a little
+way from one another, and each hut has directly in front a
+separate storehouse, built on piles or posts so as not to be
+accessible to wolves, dogs, or rats. These are small structures,
+the architecture of which has the local characteristics of the
+habitations, with the exception that they are invariably on
+piles, while the habitations are on the ground. Clothes, furs,
+mats, and winter provisions of sea-weed are kept in these
+storehouses, and access to them is by means of a peculiar
+ladder. It is a mere log of wood, six or seven feet in length,
+pointed at one end, and with five or six incisions, which serve
+as steps, and remind me of the steps cut by an ice-axe in a
+glacier or on frozen snow. Natives go up and down these
+ladders with ease, even when carrying heavy weights on their
+heads; and good care is always taken to remove the ladder
+when leaving the storehouse. Women principally look after
+these storehouses, and seem to have the whole care and
+control of them. I have often seen an Ainu girl&mdash;for a storehouse
+could hardly hold more than one&mdash;sitting on the tiny
+door working at her lord and master's <i>Atzis</i> robe. Hour after
+hour I have seen her sitting there, working patiently till the
+sun has set and the darkness has come. Her materials were
+then stowed away; the mat at the door was let down; the
+ladder descended and kicked away; and sadly singing in her
+soft falsetto voice, she retired into the dirt and dark of her
+habitation.</p>
+
+<p>The storehouses stand about six feet above the level of
+the ground, and are generally on four, six, or eight piles.
+Upon each pile is placed a large square piece of wood
+turned downwards at the sides, so as not to be accessible
+to rats and mice. Upon these square pieces of wood rest
+horizontally four rafters, forming a quadrangle about eight
+feet square. The small storehouse has as a base this quadrangle,
+and is seldom high enough to allow of an adult to
+stand inside.</p>
+
+<p>Storehouses are thatched like all other houses. On<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>
+the upper Tokachi, however, they are covered with the bark
+of trees.</p>
+
+<p>Next in connection with Ainu habitations comes the skull-trophy
+at the east end of the hut. This is on a parallel line to
+the hut wall, and only a few yards away from it, and is made
+of a number of bi-forked poles, upon which are placed the
+skulls of the bears, wolves, and foxes killed by the owner of
+the hut. The Ainu is proud of this trophy, and if the number
+of bear skulls is very large, he commands a certain amount of
+respect from his hairy brethren. There is nothing that Ainu
+admire more than courage, and there is nothing in the world
+that an Ainu desires more than to be thought brave. When
+he has gained this character a man becomes in a certain way
+the "lion" of the village. He embellishes his trophy with a
+<i>Nusa</i> and <i>Inaos</i> (willow wands with overhanging shavings&mdash;<i>see</i>
+<a href="#Page_281">Chapter on Superstitions</a>), and he always looks on
+it as an evidence of his manly glory. Besides this, many
+Ainu possess one or two live bears kept in cages. Bear
+hunters often secure one or more cubs, which they bring home
+and allow to live in the hut like one of the family or an Irishman's
+pig. These cubs are nursed along with and in the same
+manner as the children, and Ainu say that women often put them
+to the breast and suckle them like their own infants. Whether
+this is true or not I cannot say; but though I have never seen
+it, and therefore cannot vouch for it, it is not unlike Ainu
+women to do such a thing.</p>
+
+<p>When the new-comers grow big and powerful enough to be
+dangerous, the men make a rough cage with logs of timber,
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 100px;">
+<img src="images/illus-214.png" width="100" height="176" alt="THE APE-KILAI, OR EARTH-RAKE, AS USED BY PIRATORI AINU" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE APE-KILAI, OR EARTH-RAKE, AS USED BY PIRATORI AINU.</span></span>
+placing them one over the other in a quadrangular
+shape, and lashing them strongly
+together. The bear is driven into the cage,
+which is then roofed over; and after a couple
+of years of confinement, during which it is
+fattened, poor Bruin is killed for a bear festival.
+In the lower part of the cage there is a small
+wooden tray by which food is served to the
+captive.</p>
+
+<p>On the north-east coast of Yezo I have also
+seen smaller cages, in which foxes, eagles, or other animals
+are kept; and I always noticed the care which Ainu took to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>
+feed up the imprisoned animals. That "charity begins at
+home" is true even among the hairy people; for if they are
+kind to animals it is only for the sake of making a good meal
+of them on the first occasion that presents itself.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figleft" style="width: 37px;">
+<img src="images/illus-215a.png" width="37" height="300" alt="PESTLE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">PESTLE.</span></span>
+<span class="figright" style="width: 119px;">
+<img src="images/illus-215b.png" width="119" height="300" alt="MORTAR" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MORTAR.</span></span>
+It may be as well to state that
+the Ainu have never been known
+to make pottery. What they have
+of the kind is imported and sold to
+or exchanged with them by the
+Japanese. If I were an Irishman
+I should say that real Ainu pottery
+is made of wood. Nevertheless,
+large shells are often used by them
+as drinking vessels where wooden
+bowls are not obtainable. It is a
+common occurrence in Ainu households
+that one bowl is used by
+several individuals, and a more
+common occurrence still that none
+of the bowls are ever washed or
+cleaned after having been used.</p>
+
+<p>The small Ainu porch which
+stands frequently at the entrance of Ainu huts
+answers the purpose of a stackhouse, and in it is
+stored the firewood used in the house. The wooden
+mortar and the long pestle are kept in a corner
+under the porch. In the more civilised parts of
+Yezo these pestles and mortars are general, as the natives
+use them for pounding millet.</p>
+
+<p>The pure Ainu live principally on animal food&mdash;fish and
+meat&mdash;sea-weed, and some kinds of roots and herbs, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>
+they find on the mountains. Metallurgy is utterly unknown
+to the Ainu. Until of late years they possessed nothing made
+of metal. Their arrows had bamboo or bone heads; tin or
+iron cooking utensils they had none; and the blades of their
+knives were and are of Japanese origin. Some of these blades
+are very old, and were acquired by the Ainu in the battles
+which they fought against the Japanese; others have been got
+by barter-metal exchanged for skins of animals.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-215c.png" width="400" height="136" alt="KITCHEN IMPLEMENTS" /></div>
+
+<p>Furthermore, save the weaving-loom, the Ainu possess no
+machinery of their own make. This too, as we have seen, is
+but a very rude and simple kind of machine. The application
+of wind or water power to economise human labour is in no
+way known to them; thus they have no windlasses, no pumps,
+no bellows, no windmills, no waterwheels; neither have they
+any signs of the rudest form of machinery moved by manual
+power which they have imagined and made for themselves.
+Furthermore, they are very loth to accept those mechanical
+means of economising labour which are employed by their
+neighbours the Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are very conservative, little as they may have to
+preserve. They show a great dislike to change or reform their
+habits and customs, or to improve themselves in any way.
+Worse they could certainly not be. They have no ancestral
+attachment which makes them unwilling to discard their rude
+practices for more civilised ways; but, acting according to
+their instincts, and not by their intelligence, they preserve
+customs which seem inconvenient and unpractical to us, which
+habit has rendered familiar and pleasant to them.</p>
+
+<p>Various natives in other parts of the world show signs of an
+earlier state of civilisation, but the Ainu do not. They have
+never had a past civilisation, they are not civilised now, and
+what is more, they will never be civilised. Civilisation kills
+them. As a hog delights in filth, so the Ainu can only live in
+dirt, neglect, and savagery of personal habits. They are made
+that way, and they cannot help it. They are excluded from
+progress by an impassable barrier. They have many miseries
+in their life, but no greater misery could befall an Ainu than
+to be forced to lead a civilised existence. Even after they
+have been educated in Japanese schools, when they return
+home, in a short time they forget all they have learned, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>
+discard their acquired civilisation for the old, free, untrammelled
+mountain life; the wild habits of the woods and sea-shore;
+the nakedness of summer and the stifling squalor
+of the one small dingy hut in winter; the uncombed hair
+and matted beard; the putrid flesh of salmon, and the
+vile compound they revel in till they get gloriously drunk
+and bestial.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-217.png" width="400" height="305" alt="AINU PIPE-HOLDER AND TOBACCO POUCH, AS USED BY THE MORE CIVILISED AINU" />
+<span class="caption">AINU PIPE-HOLDER AND TOBACCO POUCH,
+AS USED BY THE MORE CIVILISED AINU.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-218a.png" width="600" height="136" alt="AINU KNIFE, WITH ORNAMENTED SHEATH" />
+<span class="caption">AINU KNIFE, WITH ORNAMENTED SHEATH.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXI.<br />
+<span class="small">Ainu Art, Ainu Marks, Ornamentations, Weapons&mdash;Graves and
+Tattoos.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The expression of ideas by graphic signs is utterly unknown
+to the Ainu. They have no alphabet, and furthermore, they
+have no methods whatever of writing. Hence the utter incapacity
+of the hairy people to record events, time, or circumstances
+in their history; for even the system of picture-writing
+is not known to them.</p>
+
+<p>Thus they have neither graven records nor any form of
+visible history; and tradition transmitted from mouth to
+mouth is all they have by way of historic continuity. The
+nearest approach made to graphic signs is in the owner's
+marks, which we occasionally find on some of their implements.
+The moustache-lifter is the article on which this mark
+is most commonly found. What these marks are meant to
+represent I do not know for certain; but I believe that
+Fig. 1 is supposed to convey the idea of a house, and Fig. 2
+that of a boat; Fig. 3 a bear cage, and 4 the mere result of
+fancy. Even these marks are only rarely found, and have
+probably been suggested by Japanese writing.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration shows the four specimens which I found
+carved on moustache-lifters.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
+<img src="images/illus-218b.png" width="250" height="73" alt="SYMBOLS" title="" /></div>
+
+<p>Closely allied with writing is,
+of course, map-drawing and
+ornamentations. Map drawing
+can be dismissed at once, like
+that famous chapter on snakes in Iceland, as the Ainu know
+nothing of it.</p>
+
+<p>Rough ornamentations on bone and wooden implements
+are their only artistic efforts. Truthful representations of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>
+figures and animals are seldom attempted,<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> but conventionalised
+symbols, suggested by and based on certain forms of
+animal or vegetable life, are occasionally used for ornamentation.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu have no rock-sculptures, and can neither paint
+nor draw in any form; what they have are mere simple wood-carvings.
+But only a few have any aptitude for even this
+crude work, though of course they are not all alike. As with
+us we have people who are artistic and people who are Philistine,
+so with the Ainu, in that very humble degree which is to
+Western art what an acorn is to an oak.</p>
+
+<p>Like all early work, Ainu art&mdash;if we may call it so&mdash;aims at
+a certain uniformity, especially in leaf-portraiture, so as to
+produce a somewhat symmetrical pattern; for at all times
+geometry has been the mother of design.</p>
+
+<p>An Ainu does not go for his models direct to Nature,
+neither does he servilely copy his neighbour's work; but he
+gets his ideas indirectly from both these sources, and through
+inability to copy accurately, negligence in close study, and
+some amount of native imagination combined, varies the
+design which he has seen to such an extent as to make it
+in a sense original. The talent shown by different men in the
+art of carving varies considerably, even in men of the same
+tribe; while certain tribes show both aptitude and fondness
+for these ornamentations, whereas others have little of either.</p>
+
+<p>It is the Ainu of the upper Ishikari River who chiefly excel
+in these carved ornamentations. The knife represented in the
+illustration comes from Kamikawa, and was carved with the
+point of a knife by the chief of the Ainu there. It took the
+man many months to accomplish, and it is by far the best
+specimen of Ainu workmanship that I saw in Yezo, though
+the ornamentations on it are not purely Ainu in character.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figleft" style="width: 48px;">
+<img src="images/illus-220a.png" width="48" height="300" alt="SIDE VIEW" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SIDE VIEW.</span></span>
+This man was a genius as compared to other Ainu, and his
+ideas of form and precision were considerably more developed
+than in most of his race. He has ornamented the sheath with
+conventionalised symbols, which were apparently suggested to
+him by leaves and branches of trees; and the suggestion of
+a flower can be noticed in the upper part of the handle. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>
+suggestion of fish-scales has been used by him to fill up small
+open spaces; others he filled up with parallel lines. The
+sheath is made of two parts, to allow the carver to
+cut the space for the blade inside; but these two
+parts are well fitted together, and kept fast by six
+rings of neatly-cut bark fastened on while fresh, so
+that by shrinking the two sides of the sheath are
+brought close together, and are as if made of one
+single piece.</p>
+
+<p>The side view of the same knife shows the clever
+contrivance for fastening it on to the girdle without
+removing the latter from around the body. This knife
+may be ranked among the <i>chefs d'œuvre</i> of Ainu art.</p>
+
+<p>The principal characteristics of the more usual
+ornamentations are interesting to study.</p>
+
+<p>Art of course is only the personification, so to
+speak, the expression of the mind, character, and
+knowledge of the artist; thus, in Ainu ornamentations
+we have patterns which could be nothing but
+Ainu, taken collectively, yet which show distinctly
+the temperament of each individual. For instance, taking
+<span class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-220b.png" width="400" height="388" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">KIKE-USH-BASHUI, OR MOUSTACHE-LIFTERS.</span></span>
+the moustache-lifters (Figs. 1, 2, 4 in the illustration).
+Fig. 1, with its roundish, undecided, lines, was carved by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+a man weak in physique and <i>morale</i>; Fig. 2, which is much
+simpler and with more decided lines, was the work of a quiet
+but strong and proud man; and Fig. 4, with its coarse incisions,
+was the outcome of a brutal mind.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu designs, though slightly varied by each individual, are
+principally formed of simple geometrical patterns; then of coils
+<span class="figright" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/illus-221a.png" width="300" height="224" alt="" title="SUGGESTIONS OF LEAVES" />
+<span class="caption">SUGGESTIONS OF LEAVES.</span></span>
+and scrolls; and, rarest of all,
+because the highest attainment
+of all, of conventionalised representations
+of animal or vegetable
+forms. Of the representations
+from animal forms the
+fish-scale is the only one adopted
+by the Ainu, but suggestions
+of leaves may not infrequently
+be found in these designs. Some
+of these are long and narrow; others are short and stumpy.</p>
+
+<p>The above are, to my mind, the models which the Ainu
+have chiefly taken for their leaf patterns, following nature at a
+long distance indeed!</p>
+
+<p><span class="figright" style="width: 163px;">
+<img src="images/illus-221b.png" width="163" height="42" alt="ROPE-PATTERN AND SIMPLE BANDS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROPE-PATTERN AND
+SIMPLE BANDS.</span></span>
+Beside these, and much more common,
+are the rope-pattern and the simple bands.
+Often the rope-pattern has bands above
+and below, especially in drinking vessels.</p>
+
+<p>Triangles filled with lines parallel to one of the sides are
+<span class="figright" style="width: 117px;">
+<img src="images/illus-221c.png" width="117" height="58" alt="TRIANGLES" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TRIANGLES.</span></span>
+frequently met with in moustache-lifters, and
+occasionally the annexed patterns are found:
+but as a rule the Ainu are not fond of merely
+straight single lines except for "filling" purposes.
+These patterns are mostly used on
+their graves. In articles of every-day use they prefer curves
+as a foundation of their ornamentations. The lozenge
+<span class="figright" style="width: 223px;">
+<img src="images/illus-221d.png" width="223" height="75" alt="CHEVRONS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHEVRONS.</span></span>
+pattern, especially one lozenge inside
+the other, is a favourite among
+their geometrical designs; also contiguous
+and detached circles, chevrons,
+double chevrons, and triple
+chevrons. The chevrons are mainly
+used by them on their graves, and they are invariably
+enclosed between two or four lines.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>
+The two following patterns are elaborations of the foregoing,
+but are much more uncommon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figleft" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222a.png" width="200" height="58" alt="ELABORATIONS OF CHEVRONS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ELABORATIONS OF
+CHEVRONS.</span></span>
+The parallel incised lines and parallel
+lines crossing each other at right
+angles are met with again and again
+in Ainu patterns. More common still
+is the occurrence of a number of parallel lines meeting
+perpendicularly another lot of parallel lines without crossing
+them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figright" style="width: 120px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222b.png" width="120" height="43" alt="A COMMON PATTERN" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A COMMON
+PATTERN.</span></span>
+Parallel lines have a fascination for the
+Ainu, as we find them in most of their
+designs.</p>
+
+<p>Concentric circles are not often met with, neither is the
+plain or loop coil often found, owing to the difficulty of
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 138px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222c.png" width="138" height="110" alt="WAVE PATTERNS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WAVE PATTERNS.</span></span>
+execution; but the wave pattern and double
+wave are typical Ainu patterns; also the
+reversed wave.</p>
+
+<p>From these may have been derived the
+<span class="figright" style="width: 213px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222d.png" width="213" height="70" alt="REVERSED COIL" title="" />
+<span class="caption">REVERSED COIL.</span></span>
+other two, the last
+of which is a mere
+double reversed coil.</p>
+
+<p>Triangular marks are occasionally
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 192px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222e.png" width="192" height="114" alt="FRETS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">FRETS.</span></span>
+"put in" by the Ainu in some of
+their more complicated designs, and
+finally we find that, though rarely, they
+sometimes attempt a kind of fret.</p>
+
+<p>Other strange forms of lines which
+are thoroughly characteristic of the
+Ainu are the following.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figright" style="width: 198px;">
+<img src="images/illus-222f.png" width="198" height="233" alt="OTHER CHARACTERISTIC DESIGNS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">OTHER CHARACTERISTIC
+DESIGNS.</span></span>
+I never came across any Ainu wood-carvings
+that were coloured, but in
+bone-carvings&mdash;which, I must add, are
+very rare&mdash;black is used to assist shade,
+and bring out the higher lights by
+contrast. The Ainu have no idea of
+tones, semi-tones, or gradations; the
+contrast is merely between the strong
+black and strong white. Enamelling
+is not known by them.</p>
+
+<p>The objects which bear these incised ornamentations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>
+beside the sheaths and handles of their knives and swords and
+their moustache-lifters, as has been shown, are the <i>Tchutti</i>,
+or war-clubs; the <i>Hera</i>, or netting-mesh used in weaving;
+drinking-vessels, quivers, pipes and tobacco-boxes, the
+thread-reeds, cloth-hangers, and graves.</p>
+
+<p>The modern Ainu are not a warlike people, therefore many
+of the weapons which were used in former days for defence
+and offence are rarely found now. For instance, the old war-clubs
+are not used by the present generation. These clubs
+were long and heavy, and were carried on the wrist by a piece
+of rope passed through a hole at the upper end. Some were
+plain and straight, others were curved towards the end to
+<span class="figright" style="width: 246px;">
+<img src="images/illus-223a.png" width="246" height="143" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">TCHUTTI, OR WAR-CLUBS.</span></span>
+make them heavier. Now and
+again some carved all over are
+found. Pieces of leather or rope
+were often knotted round the
+heavier part to make the blow
+more severe. In some of the
+very old clubs a stone was inlaid
+to add to the weight and consequent
+efficiency of the weapon.
+These clubs are from two to two and a half feet in length,
+and are made of hard wood.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu bows are simple, and not very powerful. They are
+about fifty inches in length, and made of only one piece of
+yew. The arrows, which are poisoned, are of bamboo or bone.
+The poison is extracted from aconite roots mixed with other
+ingredients. It is somewhat greasy owing to certain fatty
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 157px;">
+<img src="images/illus-223b.png" width="157" height="23" alt="TROUGH IN WHICH RESIN IS KEPT FOR FIXING ARROW-POINTS" title="" /><span class="caption">TROUGH IN WHICH
+RESIN IS KEPT FOR
+FIXING ARROW-POINTS.</span></span>
+matters which it contains, and is smeared
+into the cavity in the arrow-point, which
+has previously been treated with pine-tree
+gum to fix the poison. The arrow-point
+is barbed, and so fashioned that when the
+shaft is drawn from the wound this poisoned point remains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img src="images/illus-223c.png" width="250" height="83" alt="POISONED ARROWS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">POISONED ARROWS.</span></span>
+The illustration gives two
+different kinds of poisoned
+arrows. In Figs. 2 and 3, the
+black part in the point shows
+the cavity filled with poison.
+Fig. 2 shows how the arrow-head is separated from the reed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>
+and how when the arrow is drawn from the flesh the poisoned
+point remains inside the wound.</p>
+
+<p>The arrows, when in war or hunting, are kept in a quiver,
+and a small <i>Inao</i> is hung to it to bring good luck to the
+owner.</p>
+
+<p>Spears and harpoons of one barb are common, and some of
+the poisoned spears have heads similar to the arrows but of
+a larger size. Spears are out of date now, but harpoons are
+still employed in fishing.</p>
+
+<p>Knives are the weapons on which a modern Ainu most
+relies. Some of these knives are of such length that they
+might pass for swords. The blade is single-edged, and is protected
+by a wooden sheath. Nearly every man possesses one,
+which he carries in his girdle when dressed; when naked, he
+carries it in his hand. The illustration shows knives of
+different sizes, and with different patterns worked on them.
+From an artistic point of view the sheaths of knives are the
+most carefully wrought over, and ornamented to a greater
+extent than any other article of Ainu manufacture.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-224.png" width="400" height="391" alt="AINU KNIVES" />
+<span class="caption">AINU KNIVES.</span></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>
+Then come the graves. The Ainu are very jealous of these
+places of eternal rest, and good care is taken to hide them
+either in the midst of a forest, on a distant and almost inaccessible
+hill, or in some remote spot, difficult to find or reach.</p>
+
+<p>Each village has its own semi-secret graveyard, in which all
+its dead are buried. Occasionally, when the site of a graveyard
+has become known to others than these local Ainu, the place
+is deserted, and a fresh place of sepulture is chosen. The
+manner of burial is as follows. The body, wrapped up in a
+<i>Kinna</i> (mat), is fastened to a long pole and carried to the
+grave by two men. All the villagers follow, each carrying
+some article which was owned by the deceased. A grave is
+dug, wide and long enough to hold the body laid flat. In it
+are placed the bow and arrows with their quiver, the knife&mdash;from
+which, for the sake of economy, the blade has been previously
+removed&mdash;and the drinking-vessel which belonged to
+the deceased, if he were a man. Women are usually buried
+with some beads, earrings, and furs. All these articles, carried<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>
+by the mourners, are broken before they are laid in the grave
+with the corpse; a few boards are then placed over the body,
+and earth is thrown over these till the ground is level again.</p>
+
+<p>The grave is generally so shallow that the body is only a
+few inches underground&mdash;sometimes not more than four
+inches. The body lies flat on its back. Close to its head is
+erected a monument. For men it is the trunk of a tree,
+about six feet in length, from which the bark has been peeled
+off, and whereon certain ornamentations are cut. A short
+branch is left on one side. The top of the tree-trunk and the
+end of the branch are cut either in the shape of a lozenge, a
+hexagon, or a semicircle; and a hole is made through it. At
+the branch end, the cloth-earrings or the head-gear of the
+deceased are hung and left to decay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-225.png" width="600" height="530" alt="MONUMENTS OVER GRAVES." /></div>
+
+<p>Women have simpler graves; they are flat instead of round,
+and are cut into the shape of a canoe-paddle. The chief of a
+village has a more elaborate tomb than others if he has been
+liked by the villagers. At Raishats, on the Ishikari River,
+I saw a really imposing monument put over the grave of
+the chief who had recently died. It was of very large size,
+and well carved&mdash;in the same patterns as those shown in
+the illustration. Its chief peculiarity was that the body,
+instead of being covered by earth, was covered by what
+appeared to be a canoe or "dug-out" turned upside down,
+the bottom of which had been laboriously carved. On each of
+the two sides, at the head and foot of the grave, was stuck into
+the ground a wooden blade twenty-one inches in length, resembling
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 296px;">
+<img src="images/illus-226.png" width="296" height="67" alt="WOODEN BLADE" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WOODEN BLADE.</span></span>
+in shape the
+blade of a sword. Each
+of these four blades was
+carved alike, and had a
+strange design resembling
+the number 88. Whether a meaning is attached by the Ainu
+to this design I cannot say, and the curious circumstance,
+as my readers will remember, through which I came into
+possession of one of these blades, did not permit me to
+ask many questions on the subject. I often wondered
+whether it meant that life begins, goes its way round, and
+ends where it began? It is more likely, though, that no
+meaning whatever is attached to those lines, for such<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>
+deep thoughts would hardly harmonise with the Ainu
+philosophy&mdash;such as it is. The Ainu do not stop to mourn
+or pray or trouble themselves about a grave when the body is
+once buried. Those who have touched the body wash their
+hands in a tub of water which has been brought for the
+purpose; afterwards the water is thrown over the grave and
+the tub is smashed. The Ainu seldom visit their graveyards
+except when some one has to be buried. They hate their
+dead to be disturbed, and nothing makes them more angry
+than to know that a stranger has been near their burial-ground.
+When a man is dead they try to forget all about
+him and his doings, in which they generally succeed to perfection.
+This naturally is not conducive to anything like
+continuity in the history of the country, and may partly
+account for their having none. Moreover, none of the tombs
+bear the name or the mark of the person to whom it was
+erected. Tombs of children are of similar shape to those of
+adults, only smaller in size. When carrying the dead&mdash;or, as
+we should say, going to a funeral&mdash;the Ainu put on their best
+clothes, and when the burial is over they all get helplessly
+drunk to make up for the loss of the departed friend.</p>
+
+<p>To leave this somewhat grim subject and to return to
+every-day art, it may be well to mention that the designs for
+embroideries differ in no way from the wood-carvings. They
+are often more accurately finished, owing to the greater facility
+of materials, but the lines and all the characteristics of the
+patterns are the same. In the tattoos the lozenge pattern
+and bands are the two more commonly used. The Egyptian
+cross is sometimes met with (<span>
+<img src="images/illus-egyptiancross.png" width="15" height="15" alt="Egyptian Cross" />
+</span>), and also a kind of reversed
+<i>fylfot</i>, or <i>svastika</i>. Moreover, the St. Andrew's cross with
+an additional line is not uncommon(<b>X|</b>). In the present
+volume this is all I have to say on Ainu art. I may, however,
+add that their ornamentations could not be more primitive, but
+their frequency on weapons, clothing, implements, and graves
+shows us that art, though not understood by the Ainu, has a
+certain fascination, which, in their ignorance, they cannot
+explain. They know art without knowing what art means.
+Certain lines and simple designs which are familiar to them
+appeal to their taste, else they would not ornament all their
+articles with them. But this does not show any great intellectual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>
+activity, for beyond that point the Ainu brain cannot
+go. As art in its natural state is merely the pictorial outcome
+of what the brain has grasped, we have in these crude
+beginnings another strong proof that the brain-power of the
+Ainu is indeed very limited, and their inability to represent
+animal form seems extraordinary in view of what other
+savages have done; but of course superstition may have
+something to say to the omission. The Ainu rank very low
+in the scale of civilisation; they are probably below the
+Australian blacks and the tree-dwellers of India, who are
+supposed to be among the lowest races in creation. The
+Terra del Fuegians and certain African tribes run them hard;
+but, taken all in all, the Ainu are the furthest behind in the
+great race of human development.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-228.png" width="400" height="69" alt="AN AINU PIPE" />
+<span class="caption">AN AINU PIPE.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></p>
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXII.<br />
+<span class="small">Ainu Heads, and their Physiognomy.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The faces of the Ainu are far from ugly, and their heads are
+singularly picturesque, though of course there are the finer
+types as there are the meaner; by which we come to gradation
+and comparison. The general idea that all Ainu are hideous
+has arisen from the accounts of the few who have travelled in
+the more civilised parts of Yezo, and have seen and studied
+only a limited number of half-breeds and actual Japanese,
+mistaking them for Ainu. In one of the last publications on
+the Ainu, photographs of Japanese and half-breeds are given as
+typical specimens of the Ainu race; and one or two real Ainu
+are given as phenomena and exceptions. That the Ainu are
+disgustingly filthy is undoubted; that in many ways they are
+monkey-like is certain; but also that on a close examination
+many are not devoid of good features is undeniable. As regards
+looks, it is a great mistake to compare savages with
+ourselves, and to judge of them from our own standpoint.
+This is no more fair than to compare a thoroughbred fox-terrier
+with a thoroughbred poodle-dog, to the disadvantage of
+the one or the other. Passing off half-breeds as pure types of
+course makes things ten times worse, and complicates matters
+for those who care for accuracy, and are interested in anthropological
+researches.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu physiognomy is an interesting study. When seen full-face
+the forehead is narrow, and sharply sloped backward. The
+cheek-bones are prominent, and the nose is hooked, slightly
+flattened, and broad, with wide, strong nostrils. The mouth is
+generally large, with thick, firm lips, and the underlip well<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>
+developed. The space from the nose to the mouth is extremely
+long, while the chin, which is rather round, is comparatively
+short and not very prominent. Thus the face has the
+shape of a short oval. The profile is concave and the mouth
+and eyebrows are prominent, though of course the nose projects
+more than the lips, yet without being too markedly
+projecting. The chin and forehead recede, as has been said,
+and in the supraorbital region the central boss is extremely
+well marked; also the brow ridges, which, however, are slightly
+less conspicuous than the central boss. The ears are usually
+large, flat, and simply-developed, with long lobes; but unfortunately,
+owing to the heavy weight of their enormous earrings
+this part of their ears is generally much deformed.
+Sometimes I have seen children with a hole in their lobes
+large enough for me to pass my finger through; with others,
+where the skin was not so elastic, the lobes were torn right
+through and the two sides hung down. In older people
+one does not see this so much, as their long hair entirely
+covers their ears. The average length of a man's ear is
+two and three-quarter inches; of a woman's, two and a half
+inches.</p>
+
+<p>People have classified the Ainu as Mongolians, notwithstanding
+that they possess no characteristics whatsoever of the
+Mongolian races.</p>
+
+<p>The colour of their skin is light reddish-brown, and not
+yellow and sallow, like that of Mongolians; they are very
+hairy, and the Mongolians are smooth-skinned; the features
+of the one race are diametrically opposed to those of the
+other; the mouth is strong and firm in the Ainu and weak in
+the Mongolian; and the Ainu eyes, the strongest characteristic
+of Mongolian races, do not slant upwards, nor are they long
+and almond-shaped, as with the Chinese or the Japanese, but
+with their long axes are in one horizontal plane, as in most
+Europeans. Indeed, the Ainu have a much greater resemblance
+to the northmen of Europe in their prehistoric stage than to
+any modern races, and least of all to the Mongolians.</p>
+
+<p>But let us examine the eye more carefully. The iris is
+light brown, sometimes tending towards dark grey. One
+seldom sees black or very dark brown eyes save in half-breeds;
+and they are deeply set, as with Europeans. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>
+eyelids are no thicker than those of Caucasian races, though
+they droop, as is common among people exposed to the full
+glare of the sun. The broad ridges being very heavy and
+prominent, cover part of the upper eyelid over the outer angle
+of the opening. The eyelashes are extremely long, and the
+eyebrows are shaggy and bushy. The eyes are full of animal-like
+expression and emotional warmth, a thing very rare with
+their neighbours the Japanese or Chinese. The long eyelashes
+shading the large eyes and rendering them soft, together with
+their pathetic and slow way of talking, make men and women
+singularly interesting. Like most animals, the Ainu can
+"speak" with their eyes.</p>
+
+<p>The hair in Ainu adults is for the most part black, wavy,
+and easily breaking into large curls. Among children, however,
+one sees brown shades, which darken with years, until
+the hair turns quite black. Along the north-east coast of
+Yezo I came across several Ainu adults who had reddish hair
+and beard; and in the Kurile Islands, at Shikotan, several of
+the children had light auburn hair hanging in large loose curls
+and rather flaxy in texture, while the hair of adults was even
+darker than that of the Yezo Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>The hair, which is coarse and strong, is uniformly and
+thickly planted over the whole scalp, and reaches well down
+over the forehead, where, as my readers will remember, a
+space is cut out or shaved off. It grows long in men as in
+women, but when it exceeds ten or twelve inches it is generally
+trimmed in the shape of a half-circle at the back of the
+head, and is cut off level with the shoulders at the sides. The
+men have a luxuriant beard, whiskers, and moustache, which
+grow to a great length. The hair of the beard often begins
+directly under the eyes, and covers all the lower part of the
+face. Many of the natives also have a few short coarse hairs
+on the nose (especially noticeable in natives of the north-east
+coast of Yezo). The beard, whiskers, and moustache begin
+to grow in the Ainu when they are fairly young. A man at
+about twenty can grow a good beard, and at thirty his beard
+is very long. Ainu women, whom nature has not provided
+with such a luxuriant growth of hair on the lower part of the
+face, make up for it by having a long moustache tattooed on
+the upper and lower lip, which in their idea makes them look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>
+"very manly" (<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_245">Tattoos</a>). Baldness is not common among
+thoroughbred Ainu, even at a very old age, when, however,
+they generally turn grey and then white, which gives a patriarchal
+appearance to the hairy people.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu face seldom undergoes the marked changes
+common to civilised nations, as they are not subject to large
+emotions; but different expressions are as easily discernible
+by anyone who really knows and has studied the natives, as
+the different expressions in the eyes of animals by one who is
+familiar with them. When the Ainu is pleased he seldom
+wrinkles his face and draws back his mouth at the corners, as
+we do, but he shows it by a peculiar sparkle in the eyes and by
+an almost imperceptible wrinkle in his eyelids, which contract
+and diminish the opening. The corners of the mouth turn
+slightly upwards. The smile is an accentuation of this expression,
+with the additional lowering of the eyebrows,
+especially in the middle near the nose, causing the forehead
+to wrinkle.</p>
+
+<p>Laughter Ainu know not. During my long stay among
+them I never once saw a <i>real</i> Ainu laugh heartily, for the hero
+of the dab of blue paint laughed less than he roared with
+pleasure; and I do not remember even direct crosses doing so;
+hence travellers have reported the Ainu to be "dull," "sad,"
+"expressionless."</p>
+
+<p>Certainly, the first thing that strikes one on coming in contact
+with them is, how depressed they look, and how, even in
+their work, their games, their festivals, sadness is greater than
+joy. In fact, the Ainu, with their sentimental nature, enjoy
+sadness.</p>
+
+<p>Astonishment and surprise are expressed by a perplexed
+look in the wide-opened eyes, by raising the eyebrows, and by
+the contraction of the mouth. The hands are not raised nor
+directed towards the object or person causing astonishment;
+but if the arms be hanging down, the fingers are widely
+separated. With the Ainu sorrowful emotions are more
+marked than the more pleasing, the more joyous. Thus,
+when in low spirits the head is bent forwards, the eyes are
+staring and drooping, and the mouth is drawn downwards. In
+greater grief howling is added to these signs. Ainu men
+occasionally indulge in quiet tears without sobbing, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>
+women weep copiously at the death of their children when
+these are young.</p>
+
+<p>When an Ainu stands very erect, with one hand in the other
+in front, and, turning his head on either shoulder, throws it
+back and looks down at you with expressionless eyes, in the
+meanwhile raising his eyebrows, you may be sure that he
+means to show contempt. If, however, his eyes are restless
+and his lips quiver, if the eyebrows are rapidly brought down
+over the eyelids, while he opens his eyes wide showing the
+whole of the iris; if the nostrils are inflated and he breathes
+heavily; if the head is thrown forward and he is slowly arching,
+and, as the French say, "making a round back," you may be
+certain that he is in a very bad temper, and means to go for
+you, if he sees his way to it.</p>
+
+<p>When obstinate, the pose of the arms and legs is similar
+to that by which he wishes to show contempt, but the expression
+of the face is absolutely stolid, the eyes are firm
+and frigid, meaning in that way to impress you with the
+certainty that, come what may, he will not move from his
+decision.</p>
+
+<p>When actively angry, the Ainu sneer and snarl at one
+another, frowning ferociously, and showing all their front teeth,
+but specially uncovering their fangs or dog teeth; the arms
+are stretched out, but always with the fist open&mdash;if no knife
+or other weapon be held in the hand. Shame and disgust are
+two expressions which one does not often see on Ainu faces.
+The former I cannot describe, for I never saw an Ainu who
+was ashamed of anything he had done; the latter is manifested
+by an upward movement of the corners of the lips, and
+a curling of the nose, with a sudden expiration almost like
+a snort.</p>
+
+<p>Shyness, which is the nearest approach to shame, is shown
+by women when meeting a stranger, and gives them a submissive
+look. They bend their heads and look down until the
+first emotion has passed, when they gaze at the new-comer
+with a certain restlessness and curiosity, again, as in so many
+of their gestures and ways, reminding one of monkeys. I
+never found any shyness whatever in Ainu men; neither could
+I detect in them any signs of fear for objects, animals, or
+powers with which they were familiar. Things which they do<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>
+not understand of course frighten them, like eclipses of the
+sun or moon, or as my revolver did when I was attacked by
+them at Horobets; and also when I appeared as a black-winged
+rider on the north-east coast. In the latter case,
+unfortunately, I was too far off to see their faces clearly, and
+in the former, after the attack they showed more sensible submission
+to the inevitable than true cowardice. What I chiefly
+saw then was here and there a face with wide-open, undecided
+eyes heavily frowning; while some of the others shrugged
+their shoulders and closed their eyes, waiting for the loud
+report of the revolver, which unpleasant noise, heard before
+from Japanese guns, always gives a shock to their nerves.</p>
+
+<p>When an Ainu wishes to show that something cannot be
+done, or that he cannot prevent someone else from doing it,
+he neither shrugs his shoulders like a Frenchman, nor shakes
+his head laterally like an Englishman; nor does he throw out
+his hands like a Neapolitan, but, quietly standing erect, and
+with his head slightly bent forward, he gently lifts it up, and
+slowly winking his eyes, says that he cannot do it.</p>
+
+<p>When children are sulky or displeased they frown and protrude
+their lips, making a nasal noise similar to this&mdash;"Ohim"&mdash;without
+any of the vowels clearly pronounced.</p>
+
+<p>Our way of nodding the head vertically in sign of affirmation
+and shaking it laterally in negation is not known to the
+thoroughbred race. Those, either Ainu or half-castes, who
+practise it have learned it from the Japanese. The right hand
+is generally used in negation, passing it from right to left and
+back in front of the chest; and both hands are gracefully
+brought up to the chest and prettily waved downwards&mdash;palms
+upwards&mdash;in sign of affirmation. In other words, their affirmation
+is a simpler form of their salute, just the same as with us
+the nodding of the head is similarly used both ways.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite enough to look at an Ainu's eyes to see at once
+whether he consents or not, just as it is quite enough to look
+at a monkey's face to know if it will accept the apple you offer
+it. Slyness and jealousy are well marked in the Ainu face,
+and the former is seen in the glittering, restless eyes, the
+latter in the sulky glance and protruding mouth. Slyness is
+a very common characteristic among Ainu men; jealousy is
+recognised and frequent in women.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>
+I could give a large number of other characteristic expressions,
+of less ethnological importance, but in the present
+work I shall limit myself to the principal ones which I have
+attempted to describe, leaving out altogether "expressions"
+of half-castes, so as to avoid confusion.</p>
+
+<p>I must beg my reader's forgiveness for the "dryness" of the
+imperfect description I have given of the Ainu physiognomy,
+as many will agree with me that it is a great deal easier to
+notice unfamiliar expressions on faces than to describe them
+accurately in so many words.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 354px;">
+<img src="images/illus-236.jpg" width="354" height="397" alt="AINU MAN WALKING WITH SNOW-SHOES" />
+<span class="caption">AINU MAN WALKING WITH SNOW-SHOES.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIII.<br />
+<span class="small">Movements and Attitudes.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The Ainu people may be called physically strong, but yet
+they are not to be compared to the Caucasian races. They are
+fairly good walkers, capable mountaineers, and deft marksmen,
+but they do not excel in any of these exercises, either by speed
+and endurance in the former two, or by special accuracy and
+long-range in the latter.</p>
+
+<p>In the Ainu country most of the hard work is done by the
+women, who thus surpass the men in both endurance and
+muscular strength. Ainu men are indolent, save under excitement.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>
+They will cover a long distance&mdash;say forty miles&mdash;in one
+day, bear-hunting, and not suffer from great fatigue, while they
+will not be able to walk half that distance under less exciting
+conditions. The average distance which an Ainu can walk in
+one day on a fairly level track does not exceed twenty-five
+miles at the rate of two and a half miles an hour. The distance
+he can run would not go beyond ten English miles, and this
+is partly from want of training, as he never runs if he can help
+it. If, however, the walk of twenty-five miles, or the run of
+ten miles, had to be kept up for several days in succession at
+the same pace, few Ainu could manage to hold out for more
+than three days at most; while a walking average of fifteen
+miles and a running average of six miles each day could be
+kept up for a week. In walking and running women are as
+good as men in one day's distances; but, contrary to what they
+are in manual labour, they lack endurance in locomotion, and
+break down after the second or third day. Men regard
+running as unbecoming after childhood. "If we must go
+quick, why not go on horseback?" says the practical Ainu,
+who is as perfect a horseman as the Indian.</p>
+
+<p>When riding, he is able to cover a distance of fifty-five miles
+easily in one day on a good pony, and about seventy miles if
+he changes his quadruped four times. Both men and women
+ride in the same fashion, astride, and nearly always on bareback,
+or with simply a bear-skin thrown over the horse. Pack-saddles
+are only used when carrying wood, fish, sea-weed,
+or other heavy articles; and though the Japanese of Yezo
+designate these by the name of <i>Ainu kurah</i> (Ainu saddles),
+they are only in reality rough imitations of their own pack-saddles.
+Though women do ride on occasions, it is the men
+who are the true equestrians. From their infancy they spend
+a great deal of their time on horseback, while women ride only
+when obliged. Being, therefore, accustomed from their earliest
+days to ride pretty nearly from morning to night, men can
+stand many days of hard riding, and are not so easily exhausted
+as by walking or running. The Ainu are good at
+horse-racing, as we have seen at the Piratori festival, but
+foot-racing, even when the distance was short, gave but poor
+results.</p>
+
+<p>Weights and burdens are carried entirely by women, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>
+they carry them either on the head, if the load be not too
+heavy, or on the back by means of a <i>Thiaske Tarra</i>, or simply
+<i>Tarra</i>, a long ribbon-like band tied round the bundle, leaving
+a loop which goes over the forehead, thus dividing the weight
+between the shoulders and the forehead. When carrying a
+weight with the <i>Tarra</i> the woman stoops, and the greater
+the weight the lower the head has to be. The strain on the
+forehead and muscles of the neck is greatly modified by
+bending the body more or less; the weight increasing on the
+shoulders in proportion as the pull decreases from the forehead.
+The advantage of this contrivance is that it leaves both
+hands free. Very heavy loads can be carried by average
+women with this simple contrivance, and its common use may
+account for the strong and well-developed necks noticeable
+among them, but not among the men. Children are carried
+on the back of other children by means of a modified <i>Tarra</i>
+that has a stick about twenty inches long, the two ends of
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 106px;">
+<img src="images/illus-238.png" width="106" height="432" alt="THE THIASKE-TARRA, FOR CARRYING CHILDREN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE THIASKE-TARRA,
+FOR
+CARRYING
+CHILDREN.</span></span>
+which are fastened to the two ends of the band.
+The child carried sits comfortably on this stick
+while the centre part of the <i>Tarra</i> rests on the
+head of the child-carrier. This centre part is
+generally lined with a piece of skin or cloth, and
+ornamented with a few simple Ainu designs.
+A weight which cannot be lifted with both
+hands is easily borne for a long distance by
+the aid of the <i>Tarra</i>; and I should think that
+with it a strong woman could carry on her back
+a load, say, of from eighty to ninety pounds. It
+is difficult to institute comparative tests of
+strength, as constant practice, without counting
+"knack," often enables a person to perform feats which baffle
+a much stronger man. Taken altogether, the Ainu strength is
+relative to their height; but they are somewhat below the
+average Caucasian races both in endurance, and yet more in
+speed and muscular power.</p>
+
+<p>When actively employed, the Ainu can abstain from food
+for fourteen or sixteen hours; when quiescent for about twenty.
+They can go without drink (when it is not alcoholic) for ten
+or twelve hours without feeling inconvenience. A pebble is
+often sucked, or a straw is chewed when fluid is not obtainable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>
+thus causing a flow of saliva, which to a certain extent quenches
+their thirst. However, the reason given by the Ainu is not
+this. According to them, certain stones and some kinds of
+grass contain a great amount of water.</p>
+
+<p>More interesting to me than their physical characteristics
+were their movements and attitudes, which I was able to study
+and note correctly without their observation. For instance
+when Ainu try to move some heavy object they pull it towards
+them. Thus, when they drag their "dug-outs" and canoes on
+shore, and again when they launch them, they never push
+from them, but always pull towards them. If an Ainu has to
+break a stick planted in the ground he does it by pulling it;
+whereas a Japanese will push it. Again, in pulling a rope the
+Ainu pull; the Japanese push by placing the rope over one
+shoulder and walking in the direction wanted. In a crowd
+where a Japanese would push his way through by extending
+his arms and thus separating people, the Ainu seizes a man on
+each side, pulling one to the right and the other to the left till
+space for him to pass is made.</p>
+
+<p>As muscles are only strengthened by exercise, it is not
+astonishing that we never find well-developed arms among the
+hairy people, who so seldom make vigorous use of them.
+Children are as fond of climbing trees as the average English
+boy; and sometimes this is done in our way, by putting the
+legs and arms round the trunk and gradually "swarming" up;
+but with trees of a small diameter the ways of monkeys are
+adopted. The arms are stretched, and one hand is placed on
+each side of the tree. Both feet are then pushed against the
+trunk, keeping the leg slightly bent, but stiff. One hand goes
+rapidly over the other, one foot above the other, and so on;
+and the more rapid the movement the easier the climb, if care
+be taken to plant the feet firmly so as not to slip. Ainu boys
+are dexterous at this; but I have never seen full-grown
+men attempt it, though I am sure they could if they chose.
+Elderly people are very sedate in Ainuland, and violent movements
+are generally avoided.</p>
+
+<p>Where the Ainu are indeed great is at making grimaces.
+The Ainu resemble monkeys in many ways, but in this special
+accomplishment they beat monkeys hollow. It would take
+volumes to describe all the different grimaces which I saw them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>
+make, especially at myself while I was sketching them; but one
+or two of their "favourites" may prove worth describing.</p>
+
+<p>One Ainu at Shari, on the north-east coast, excelled in
+moving his scalp, and by raising his eyebrows at the same
+time creased the skin of his forehead to such an extent as to
+make his eyebrows almost meet his hair. The nostrils were
+expanded and the upper lip was raised so as to show the
+teeth firmly closed. The same man was also good at moving
+his ears. Others preferred to put out their tongue, emitting
+at the same time a harsh sound from the throat.</p>
+
+<p>Although many Ainu could not voluntarily move their scalp
+they often did so unaware. When eating, especially if a piece
+of food required some effort to swallow, the neck was outstretched,
+the mouth closed tight, the eyebrows raised high,
+and the scalp brought far forward over the forehead. In
+masticating, the ears would sometimes move involuntarily, as
+with dogs or monkeys.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are also good at rapid "winking," first with one
+eye, then the other, each eye playing at an inexpressibly
+funny kind of bo-peep. <i>En revanche</i>, they make no great use
+of their hands, and it is not uncommon for them to use their
+feet to assist their hands. Indeed, their toes are supplementary
+fingers, and they often hold things between the big toe
+and the next, as when making nets or <i>Inaos</i> (wooden wands
+with overhanging shavings). When making nets, the string is
+firmly held by the big toe bent over; when shaping <i>Inaos</i>
+the lower point of the wand is passed between the two toes,
+which keep it fast while the long shavings are cut.</p>
+
+<p>When women wind the thread made of the <i>Ulmus campestris</i>
+fibre, they often let it run between the two larger toes
+while they wind it on a spool or a reed. Then, again, the toes
+are often used to pick up small objects out of the reach of the
+hands, and also to scratch the lower extremities. The two
+middle fingers of the hand and the three smaller toes of the
+foot are seldom used by the Ainu, and are somewhat inert.
+The little finger is slightly more active. Whenever Ainu
+point at anything they habitually do so with the open hand,
+for they have a certain difficulty in using any finger separately.
+This difficulty is not so great with the first finger; but where
+a European would use only his thumb and first finger, an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>
+Ainu uses all four fingers and his thumb as well, as in carrying
+food to his mouth, picking up small objects, lifting a cup,
+pulling his own hair, scratching his ears, &amp;c. That the Ainu
+have more muscular power in the head than either in the
+hands or feet when violent exertion is required is certain,
+as I had frequent proof when requiring natives to make my
+baggage fast with ropes to my pack-saddle. Where a
+European would have done this by passing the ropes round
+the baggage and pulling them fast to the saddle, the Ainu
+set his foot (generally the right) against the baggage and
+pulled the ropes with his teeth. By this method he used one-third
+more force than he would had he done his work with his
+hands. Though the Ainu are very supple about the body,
+they are nevertheless stiffer than we are about the knees and
+hands, which last peculiarity prevents them from learning any
+kind of sleight-of-hand. They are supple because of the
+singular flexibility of their spine and the "looseness" of their
+arms about their shoulders. When resting or tired, the
+shoulders droop so far forward as to prove that the muscular
+tension which we constantly exert to have "square shoulders"
+is foreign to the hairy people. The Ainu are deficient in
+biceps, and such an arm as a blacksmith's or athlete's, which
+is not uncommon among ourselves, is in Ainuland a thing
+unknown. Their muscles have not the firmness of those of
+civilised men. Want of use entails loss of power in the
+muscular system, and that, unfortunately, produces further
+results in paralysis, <i>kaki</i>, and rheumatism. In the legs the
+<i>tendo Achillis</i>, which often assumes such enormous proportions
+with us, is only moderately developed with them, though it
+is generally larger than the biceps, owing to the habit of
+walking and riding. Notwithstanding this, the centre of
+muscular power, as we have seen, is undoubtedly in the
+head, as with inferior animals; and the Ainu are fully aware
+of this, for if not why should they carry all weights on the
+head or by the help of the head? Why should they use
+their teeth instead of their hands when an extra powerful pull
+is required? And why should they <i>push</i> with their heads
+when pulling with their teeth is not practicable?</p>
+
+<p>Having examined the different movements of the Ainu, let
+us now take some account of their attitudes. What struck me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>
+most was the unconscious ease with which they stood, sat, and
+slept, no matter in what circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>It may be well to repeat here that the Ainu are not
+burdened, as we are, with articles of furniture and a code of
+manners which so greatly modify our attitudes and make us
+conscious of all we do. Moreover, we wear crippling boots
+and nonsensical garments, which, besides not being ornamental,
+more or less alter and deform different parts of our body, considerably
+restrict certain attitudes, and greatly stiffen some of
+our limbs; as, for example, the exaggerated smallness of waist
+in women.</p>
+
+<p>It is remarkable what a close resemblance the hairy people
+bear to the prehistoric man as constructed by <i>savants</i> out of
+skulls and skeletons&mdash;a resemblance found, I believe, in no
+other race of savages.</p>
+
+<p>Take an Ainu standing at ease; he carries his head straight,
+but without stretching his neck, so that if a horizontal line
+were passed through the <i>meatus auditorius</i> it would cut the
+face directly under the eyes. If another line were drawn perpendicular
+to the horizontal, we should find that the front of
+the face is not on the same plane with the forehead, but projects
+considerably beyond in its lower part. In thoroughbred
+Ainu the head is well posed on the cervical vertebræ, and
+seldom shows an inclination from back to front, from right
+to left, or <i>vice versâ</i>; but in half-castes an inclination forward,
+and also slightly from the left to the right, is a marked
+characteristic.</p>
+
+<p>The body when standing still is a trifle inclined forward, but
+when walking the inclination is greatly increased.</p>
+
+<p>The body is well balanced, and this inclination is partly due
+to the head being abnormally large for the body; also to the
+habit of keeping the knees slightly bent either when standing
+still or when in motion.</p>
+
+<p>The women, through carrying heavy weights on the head,
+are straighter than men when standing as well as when
+walking without a burden. Their spinal column describes a
+gentle curve inwards, while with men it has a slight tendency
+outwards. When an Ainu is standing at rest his arms hang
+by his side, the palms of the hands are turned inwards with
+a small inclination towards the front. But a pose which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>
+even more characteristic than this is when both hands are
+placed in front, the fingers of the right hand overlapping those
+of the left. When sitting this is their invariable attitude, but
+in walking the arms hang by the side, and no swing is given
+to them to help the motion. In running, the arms are bent,
+and sometimes the hands are kept half opened about the level
+of the shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu legs, notwithstanding their greater muscular
+power than that of the arms, are neither stout nor well-developed&mdash;but
+they are wiry. The hips are narrow, and the
+legs are slightly curved.</p>
+
+<p>The gait is energetic but not fast, each step being flat, with
+the foot firmly planted on the ground. When in motion the
+feet are perfectly straight, and move parallel to each other, and
+at each step the heel and toes touch the ground at the same
+time&mdash;an undeniable proof that the body is well balanced when
+they walk.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu walk mostly unshod, and the average length of
+the step in men is twenty-six inches (from heel of left to tip
+of right foot), and in women about twenty inches. The
+average number of steps to the minute is ninety-two in men
+and ninety-eight in women. Where the Ainu is seen at his
+best is when he is riding bareback. He sits so firmly that
+animal and rider seem to be only one body. The knees are
+slightly bent, and the legs and feet hang so that the toes are a
+great deal lower than the heels, and are also turned in. No
+voluntary muscular contraction is affected on the muscles of
+the legs; for if the knees are bent this is because of the shape
+of the horse's body, and if the rider "sticks" on his steed it is
+merely by the counterbalance of the dead weight of his two
+legs. The body of the rider is quite erect when riding gently,
+but on increasing speed the body is thrown backwards, the legs
+remaining in the same position. The single rein is held in the
+right hand resting on the horse's mane, and the left arm
+habitually hangs or rests on the rider's leg. When feeding in
+his hut, the Ainu sits cross-legged, but in places where he can
+lean against something, or out in the open, he squats, bearing
+his weight on both feet, but with the legs bent to such an
+extent that his head is on a level with his knees. Often his
+arms are rested on the knees themselves, and food is passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>
+with the hands to the mouth, to be then torn by the teeth.
+No forks, spoons, or chopsticks are used by the thoroughbred
+Ainu; but Japanese influence has induced some of the more
+civilised specimens of Volcano Bay and Piratori to give up
+partly the use of mother Nature's forks and take to the <i>Hashi</i>
+(chopsticks), also to adopt some ugly tin spoons as the sign of
+their adherence to civilisation. Lastly, when asleep the Ainu
+generally lie flat on the back. Sleeping on the right side and
+resting the head on the bent elbow is also a common posture;
+and when sleeping for a short period of time during the day
+I have often seen men still sitting, bring up their legs, cross
+their arms on their knees, and then rest the head on the arms;
+thus placidly having a "nap" without waking up with a stiff
+neck, stiff legs, and "pins and needles" in their arms, which
+would be the sure result if the average European tried that
+mode of repose.</p>
+
+<p>Most Ainu have no bedding of any kind, and most of them
+sleep on hard rough planks or on the ground itself. Some of
+the people, however, sleep on bear-skins in winter, as it keeps
+them warm, and the colder the night the closer all the members
+of the family pack together to warm each other with their
+natural heat. A strange peculiarity, when Ainu are asleep,
+lying flat on their back, is, that instead of keeping both legs
+fully stretched out, one, or sometimes both, are raised and
+bent, with the sole of the foot planted on the ground. This
+peculiarity is chiefly noticeable in men, and I have observed it
+many times, especially in old people. The reason of it is this.
+The Ainu having no pillow, the head has to be turned so far
+back to rest on the ground itself that action at the other end of
+the body is necessary to counterbalance the strain on the spine.
+I came to this conclusion by being often placed in the same
+circumstances as the hairy people themselves, when I found
+that lying flat on my back on the hard unpillowed ground, if
+the legs were straightened only a small portion of the spine
+between the shoulders was supported, but by raising the legs
+the whole spinal column rested on the level surface.</p>
+
+<p>As we have now seen the Ainu asleep in a "comfortable
+attitude," we shall leave them for the present, and I shall take
+my readers to examine their clothes, their ornaments, and their
+tattoos.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-245a.png" width="600" height="382" alt="THE ATZIS" />
+<span class="caption">THE ATZIS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIV.<br />
+<span class="small">Ainu Clothes, Ornaments, and Tattooing.</span></h2>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 305px;">
+<img src="images/illus-245b.png" width="305" height="328" alt="WINTER BEAR-SKIN COAT" title="" />
+<span class="caption">WINTER BEAR-SKIN
+COAT.</span></div>
+
+<p>The Ainu men generally go naked in summer time, but in
+some parts of Yezo civilisation has forced them to adopt cheap
+Japanese clothes. It must not be supposed from this that the
+real Ainu never wear any clothes at all, for indeed on grand
+occasions they dress gaudily enough, but always in a rude,
+elementary kind of way. For winter use they sew together
+the skins of either bear or deer, fox or wolf,
+making a kind of sleeveless jacket, which
+protects the chest, the shoulders, and the
+back. Another kind of fur garment of deer-skin
+is longer and has sleeves, is large at the
+shoulders, and very narrow at the wrist, as
+a still further protection against the cold.
+This deer-skin coat is mostly worn by women
+as an under-garment. Besides these fur
+garments for winter weather, they wear the
+<i>atzis</i>, a long reddish-yellow wrapper, made of the woven
+fibre of the <i>Ulmus campestris</i>. It has sleeves similar to the
+deer-skin coat, only these sleeves are a great deal wider.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 271px;">
+<img src="images/illus-246.png" width="271" height="297" alt="BACK OF ATZIS" title="" />
+<span class="caption">BACK OF ATZIS.</span></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>
+On the southern coast some of the civilised tribes have either
+adopted Japanese <i>kimonos</i> altogether, or make their <i>atzis</i> after
+the same pattern, to ingratiate themselves with their masters,
+on the principle of imitation being the sincerest flattery, and
+perhaps also because they come cheaper in the end. The
+<i>atzis</i> reaches below the knees, and is folded round the body.
+It is kept in position by a girdle or belt of the same material, or
+of bear or sea-lion skin. This <i>atzis</i> is ornamented
+with embroidery both back and front,
+round the sleeves, round the neck, and all
+round the border, or, as we should say,
+hem. The embroideries are done in Japanese
+coloured cottons and threads. The colours
+are invariably red, blue, and white, on a
+background of this yellow <i>Ulmus campestris</i>
+cloth. They have the same characteristic
+patterns, and are identical with the ornaments
+on knife-sheaths, drinking-bowls, moustache-lifters, &amp;c.,
+as the readers will find in the chapter on the "Arts of the
+Ainu." Men and women wear <i>atzis</i> of the same shape, only
+those of the women are longer than those of the men, and
+reach nearly to the feet. Moreover, the patterns which are
+embroidered on the men's dresses are not considered suitable
+for the women's, and <i>vice versâ</i>. Women&mdash;who, by the way,
+do all these embroideries&mdash;have to content themselves with the
+simplest patterns devisable&mdash;a mere thin line of blue stitches;
+but they give to the men a more elaborate ornament. They
+first sew on heavy bands of material, which then they embroider
+in highly complicated patterns, thus giving a much heavier and
+handsomer appearance to the male <i>atzis</i>. In winter the
+sleeveless fur jacket is sewn over the <i>atzis</i>, and, as has been
+said, women wear the deer-skin gown as an under-garment.
+Ainu embroideries vary considerably, not only in different
+tribes and different villages, but also in each family, according
+to the talent and patience possessed by the embroidress. It
+takes an affectionate wife a year or longer to ornament the
+elm-bark dress of her beloved husband, and in the case of a
+chief's robe the work never comes to an end, as additions
+are constantly made. Children have an extremely simple
+embroidery, when any, round the sleeves and hem of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>
+<i>atzis</i>, but never any, simple or elaborate, either on the
+back or front.</p>
+
+<p>I have often seen women working patiently hour after hour
+while sitting on the tiny door of their storehouses; and the
+result of their labour would be half an inch of coarse stitching,
+which for them was a great work of art. Most Ainu now
+possess needles of Japanese manufacture, but in former days
+they had only bone needles, and instead of fine well-dyed
+Japanese thread were obliged to be content with the fibre of
+the elm tree dyed black. The ornamentations on the <i>atzis</i> of
+Ainu who have no Japanese needles are necessarily a great
+deal coarser and simpler than those which are done with steel
+needles and cotton threads. The essential characteristics are
+the same in both. In sewing together skins for winter garments
+fish-bone needles are often used up to this day.</p>
+
+<p>These embroidered clothes, when new, are only worn on
+grand occasions, as at a bear festival, or when paying a visit to
+a neighbouring village. A few rags constitute the usual every-day
+costume, and no difference is made between the in-door
+and the out-of-door clothing. In fact, most Ainu sleep in their
+clothes, such as they are.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 270px;">
+<img src="images/illus-247.png" width="270" height="522" alt="THE HOSHI" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE &quot;HOSHI.&quot;</span></div>
+
+<p>One article of dress which is worn by all alike, young and
+old, male or female, is the <i>hoshi</i>, or leggings. Like their
+gowns, these are sometimes made of the
+inner fibre of the elm-tree bark and sometimes
+of rushes and reeds plaited as in the
+ordinary rush matting. When of elm-tree
+bark, they are often embroidered in the
+upper part, as can be seen in the illustration.
+They are fastened just under the knee
+by means of the two upper strings, then
+wrapped tightly round the leg and bound
+round the ankle with the lower and longer
+ribbon. The Ainu go barefooted in the
+summer, but during the winter months, when
+the cold is too severe for this, they cover their
+feet with mocassins and long boots made of salmon-skin, and
+often of deer-skin. When the Ainu goes for a long journey
+or a hunt, during which he has to traverse rough ground, he
+generally protects his skin boots&mdash;the soles of which would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>
+soon be destroyed by the sharp stones and ice&mdash;by slipping
+over them a pair of thick rope sandals, which protect the
+sides, the back, the toes, and sole of the foot. If to this
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 285px;">
+<img src="images/illus-248a.png" width="285" height="80" alt="BOOTS TO BE SOAKED IN WATER SO AS TO TAKE SHAPE OF FOOT, AND TO BE KEPT UP WITH A STRING." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BOOTS TO BE SOAKED
+IN WATER SO AS TO
+TAKE SHAPE OF
+FOOT, AND TO BE
+KEPT UP WITH A
+STRING.</span></span>
+<span class="figleft" style="width: 261px;">
+<img src="images/illus-248b.png" width="261" height="83" alt="DEER-SKIN SHOE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DEER-SKIN SHOE.</span></span>
+inventory be added a head-gear
+consisting of a band
+wound round the head,
+and an occasional apron,
+the whole of the Ainu
+wardrobe is catalogued. This band,
+which is worn principally by women,
+is untied and removed when saluting
+or meeting a man, whether on the road or in the woods. A
+<span class="figright" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-248c.png" width="600" height="68" alt="THE TARRA OR HEAD-BAND" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE TARRA OR HEAD-BAND.</span></span>
+Japanese towel often
+takes the place of the
+native manufacture. I
+am inclined to think
+that this custom of covering the head has been acquired
+from the Japanese, as none of the Ainu of the Upper
+Tokachi&mdash;the only pure ones remaining&mdash;wore anything in
+the shape of band or kerchief, while it is extremely
+common with the Ainu of Volcano Bay and Piratori to wear
+these unbecoming towels. At Piratori the Ainu women
+give a more artistic character to this ugly headgear by
+embroidering it in front and wearing it like a tiara. An
+apron is occasionally worn by Ainu, but this too, in my
+opinion, has been borrowed from the Japanese. Ainu clothes
+often get undone, owing to their shape, and therefore Ainu
+men sometimes wear these aprons, but rather because they are
+made to wear them than from native modesty or inclination to
+be commonly decent. I have seen Ainu on the north-east
+coast of Yezo and on Lake Kutcharo wear coarse hats of
+matted rushes. When laid flat, these hats have a diameter of
+about thirty inches; but when worn, they are folded in two,
+and kept in this position by a string tied under the chin and
+passed through the hat. They are used principally in winter as
+a protection against the snow. The Ainu care more to adorn
+than to clothe themselves. A few glass beads, a metal earring,
+a silver coin, or anything that shines, can make a man or a
+woman as happy as a king. Intoxicants come first of all
+things, but after them there is nothing in this world that Ainu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>
+cherish more than personal ornaments, and this is, of course,
+even truer of women than of men. What strikes a stranger
+when looking at an Ainu for the first time is, as I have
+already said, the size of their metal earrings and heavy glass
+necklaces. As the Ainu cannot work in metals or make glass,
+these ornaments have been purchased from Japanese, Chinese,
+and Corean adventurers, and many costly skins of bears,
+foxes, wolves, or seals are gaily bartered for a few beads,
+worth next to nothing. The Ainu is fond of metals, but he
+does not know the difference between one and the other. All
+that glitters is gold for him; and if it is not gold then it must
+be silver. Therefore some Ainu are known to have invested
+all their fortune of valuable furs for a pair of brass earrings,
+and, what is more, they have never grudged the bargain!
+Previous to the importation of these worthless articles their
+ornaments were made of wood, bone, and shells, of which
+"survivals" are still to be seen with the Ainu of the Upper
+Tokachi.</p>
+
+<p>The large circular earrings are much prized: men and
+women alike wear them. Many men, however, do not
+wear these metal earrings, but prefer instead a long strip of
+red or black cloth, or skin.</p>
+
+<p>The lobes of the ears are frequently torn down by wearing
+these heavy earrings from early childhood, and they know
+not how to mend them by sewing them. Another hole is
+sometimes bored in the upper and sound part.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu women of civilised districts occasionally wear metal
+finger-rings, but these are of course of foreign make, and
+imported.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu <i>menokos</i> (girls) seem to have no partiality for bracelets
+or amulets, but necklaces are the dream of their life.
+The delight of an Ainu woman in a new necklace is in proportion
+to the size and number of the beads. A woman who possesses
+one of extra large beads is envied by all her less fortunate
+neighbours; and she who has several strings is at once
+admired and hated by all the womankind of the village.
+For, indeed, Ainu women are "human" enough to know
+how to hate each other! The beads which most take their
+fancy are the blue, black, white, or metal ones. The larger
+beads in the necklace are in front; and the rough wooden<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>
+pendants with bits of bone, metal, or broken beads inlaid in
+it, which hang to the necklace, rest on the breast. Large
+Japanese sword-hilts are often used as pendants by the Volcano
+Bay natives.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu of the Upper Tokachi region had none of these
+beads, but a rough wooden pendant was suspended round
+their neck by a leather string.</p>
+
+<p>Girdles are worn by men and women for two purposes&mdash;first,
+to keep their clothes together; next, to support the large
+knives which the Ainu always carry with them.</p>
+
+<p>The Ishikari Ainu who lived formerly in Sakhalin wear
+leather belts, and the women wear besides a peculiar cloth
+headgear. Both these articles are ornamented with drops of
+melted lead and Chinese cash sewn on to the cloth.</p>
+
+<p>These are all the articles of clothing and ornament which
+are in common use among the Ainu. None of them are worn
+as symbols of rank, or to denote virginity. No Ainu can
+explain why he or she wears one thing more than another,
+except for the reason that he or she likes it. There are no
+Ainu laws as regards clothing, and with the exception of the
+"chief," who on special occasions dresses more gaudily, and
+wears a crown made either of willow-tree shavings or dried
+sea-weed, with a small carved-wood bear head in front, they
+all dress pretty much alike. A chief could not be distinguished
+from a commoner by his everyday clothing.</p>
+
+<p>Speaking of personal ornamentation, I may as well describe
+the way in which the hair is dressed, and also the
+tattoo-marks.</p>
+
+<p>Little care is taken of the long hair, which reaches down to
+the shoulders. It is never washed, nor brushed, nor combed.
+At the back it is cut in a semicircle round the neck. Over
+the forehead the men shave a small part of the long hair,
+which, falling over their eyes, is uncomfortable to them; but
+women do not. Until lately this shaving was done with sharp
+shells, and wives shaved their husbands. The process was said
+to be rather painful, and the thoughtful women have now
+adopted knives for that purpose, to the great delight of the
+stronger sex. The part shaved is in the shape of a lozenge
+two and a half inches by two inches respectively from angle to
+angle. This open space causes the hair to part in two different<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>
+directions and hang down in large wavy curls. The fingers
+are occasionally passed through it, and then with the palms of
+the hands it is plastered down on both sides.</p>
+
+<p>A characteristic Ainu method of making the morning
+"toilette" is to bend the head low and let the long hair fall
+over the forehead. The two hands are then placed under it
+on the temples, and suddenly and violently the head is shaken
+and thrown back, the hair being pressed down by the hands at
+the same time. If the first attempt at neatness is not approved
+of, the process is repeated two or more times. I must confess
+that personally I could seldom see any marked difference
+between a head of hair "dressed" and one "not dressed";
+but it must be remembered that the Ainu have no looking-glasses,
+and what they think is right is of course right
+for them.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly, when an old woman lost her husband she had her
+head entirely shaved, and when the hair had grown long again
+she repeated the process as a proof of fidelity and affection to
+her deceased spouse. It is very rarely done now. She used
+to wear a sort of cap, with an aperture at the top, round the
+crown of the head during the time that her hair was short;
+and it was incumbent on the widow to wear a look of sorrow
+and pain till her hair grew long again.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu men have long beards and moustaches, which are
+never trimmed, with the exception of the Kurilsky Ainu, who
+trim theirs. The beard begins to grow when they are very
+young, but it is shaved till they reach manhood. It is then
+left to grow naturally, and never touched again as long as they
+live. Ainu women, whom nature has not favoured with such
+a manly ornament, supplement their deficiency by having a
+long moustache tattooed on their lips. Their hands and arms
+are also tattooed.</p>
+
+<p>The tattooing among the Ainu is limited to the fair sex,
+and it is confined to the head and arms. Why and when the
+fashion was adopted is not known, and the semi-Ainu legends
+on the subject are very vague. One legend says that when
+the Ainu conquered Yezo, which was then inhabited by a race
+of dwarfs&mdash;"the Koro-pok-kuru"&mdash;some Koro-pok-kuru
+women came to the Ainu camp to beg food from them, and
+they did so by passing their arms through the reed walls of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>
+the Ainu huts. One day an Ainu clutched one of these arms
+and pulled it in, when a tattooed pattern on the tiny arm was
+greatly admired by the hairy conquerors, who adopted the
+practice from that day.</p>
+
+<p>A simpler reason is that the women, not being so hairy as
+the men, are humiliated by their inferiority in that respect,
+and try to make up for it by tattooing themselves. In support
+of this theory may be quoted the fact that women are only
+tattooed in parts which are left uncovered when clad in their
+long <i>atzis</i> gowns.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu process of tattooing is a painful one. The tattoo
+marks are usually done with the point of a knife; not with
+tattooing needles, as by the Japanese. Many incisions are cut
+nearly parallel to each other. These are then filled with cuttlefish-black.
+Sometimes smoke-black mixed with the blood
+from the incisions is used instead. On the lips the operation
+is so painful that it has to be done by instalments. It is begun
+with a small semicircle on the upper lip when the girl is only
+two or three years of age, and a few incisions are added every
+year till she is married, the moustache then reaching nearly
+to the ears, where at its completion it ends in a point. Both
+lips are surrounded by it; but not all women are thus
+marked. Some have no more than a semicircular tattoo on
+the upper lip; others have an additional semicircle under the
+lower lip; and many get tired of the painful process when the
+tattoo is hardly large enough to surround their lips. The
+father of the girl is generally the operator, but occasionally it
+is the mother who "decorates" the lips and arms of her female
+offspring. Besides this tattooed moustache, a horizontal line
+joins the eyebrows, and another line, parallel to it, runs across
+the forehead. The tattoo could not be of a coarser kind. A
+rough geometrical drawing adorns the arms and hands of
+women, the pattern of one arm being often different from that
+of the other. Frequently only one arm is tattooed. I never
+saw tattoos that went further than the elbow, neither did I see
+any other part of the body tattooed. The four specimens
+given in the illustration show the patterns most usual in
+different tribes, though each individual has some slight
+variations.</p>
+
+<p>Fig. 1 was copied by me from the arm of a woman at Frishikobets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>
+(Tokachi River); Figs. 2 and 3 are the two arms of
+Kawata Tera, a girl of Tobuts (north-east coast of Yezo); and
+Fig. 4 is the left arm of a girl at Piratori.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/illus-253.png" width="600" height="446" alt="TATTOO MARKS" />
+<span class="caption">TATTOO-MARKS ON WOMEN&#39;S ARMS.</span></div>
+
+<p>It will be noticed that in the regions where the Ainu have
+come in contact with Japanese, rings are tattooed round the
+fingers, while the Tokachi Ainu women have none. In the
+two arms of Kawata Tera (Figs. 2 and 3) the dissimilarity
+of the two patterns is very marked at first sight, but on a
+close examination it is easy to perceive that the operator
+meant to carry out the same pattern on the right arm as on the
+left; only through his incapacity to reproduce correctly his
+former lines, or for other reasons, he got muddled up in the
+design, and left his work unfinished. If all the lines in the
+upper half of Fig. 3 were continued, the design would be
+very similar to Fig. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Tattooing is considered an ornament, besides, as I have
+already mentioned, adding the coveted air of "virility" to
+women. There is no religious feeling connected with it, and the
+practice is rapidly dying out, as the Japanese men make fun of
+the Ainu women, who after all only tattoo their mouths and arms,
+while they themselves often tattoo the whole of the body. The
+Ainu have no rules as to when the girls are to be operated on.
+They are done both before and after marriage, contrary to
+what has been said, that the women do not tattoo themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>
+after they have become wives. The moustache is generally
+finished before a girl gets married, as she herself is anxious to
+be thus decorated; but there are no rules as to virginity or
+marriage, for the arms and hands are as often tattooed after
+marriage as before. Indeed, in the Ainu country, "tattooing"
+one's wife seems to be one of the pleasures of the honeymoon.
+The design of these tattoos is meant to be, but is seldom,
+symmetrical. The Ainu apparently execute these designs on
+a preconceived plan, but the results rarely come up to expectation,
+as no drawing of the design is prepared beforehand.
+The bluish-black colour of the tattoo is very permanent and
+strong, and many an Ainu woman is disfigured for life, who,
+according to our ideas, would otherwise be good-looking.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-254.png" width="400" height="104" alt="SNOW-SHOES" />
+<span class="caption">SNOW-SHOES.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 362px;">
+<img src="images/illus-255.jpg" width="362" height="201" alt="AINU SALUTATION" />
+<span class="caption">AINU SALUTATION.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXV.<br />
+<span class="small">Ainu Music, Poetry, and Dancing.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The music of each nation has certain characteristics of its own;
+and though according to European ideas the music of what
+are called barbarous peoples may sound in some sense excruciating,
+it always has a certain occult charm, more especially to
+one who is able to forget his former training, and teach himself
+to see, hear, and think in the same way as the natives he is
+studying.</p>
+
+<p>Undoubtedly we Westerns have brought music to a pitch of
+refinement that no savage nation has even attempted to reach;
+but in my opinion we do savages injustice when we call their
+music "unmitigated discord." Barbarians like the Ainu do
+not indicate their rhythmical effects and modulations by means
+of a musical notation; and harmony is of course very defective
+with them, from our point of view. On the other hand, the
+feeling and passion with which they chant their songs make
+them go straight to the heart, if as a melody they are not
+always pleasing to the cultivated Western ear.</p>
+
+<p>An Ainu seldom sings for the mere pleasure of art as art,
+and it is only when full of joy or "crazed with care" that he
+gives expression to his feelings in music. Then he pours out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>
+his whole soul in that which to him is melody beyond the
+power of words to compass.</p>
+
+<p>After a hunt, a fishing expedition, a journey, or a misfortune,
+the Ainu enters his hut and seats himself cross-legged on the
+ground. He then holds out both hands with the palms
+together, and rubs them backwards and forwards three or four
+times; after this he raises them, palms upwards, to a level with
+his head, gracefully lowers them to his knees, and then, raising
+them again, strokes his hair and beard. Again he lowers his
+hands twice, thrice, or even more times, according to the
+amount of respect to which the person saluted is entitled, the
+latter following in every smallest detail the motions of his
+saluting friend. When this complicated salutation has been
+performed separately before each male member of the household,
+the new arrival relates the tale of his good-or ill-luck;
+and if the events be of an unusual character the story is chanted
+in a sort of sing-song which makes each note of joy or lamentation
+vibrate in the heart of the listener. It is only in such
+circumstances of stress of feeling that I ever heard the Ainu
+sing, though sometimes women and young folks when alone,
+fishing, riding, or travelling, sing out bits of their past lives as
+they remember this scene or that event.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu music is almost entirely vocal, and their singing has
+more the character of the <i>recitative</i> than of the <i>aria</i> proper.
+Their songs are always for <i>solo</i>; and during my stay among
+the hairy people I never heard a concerted piece, nor even an
+air or a single voice with a chorus for a number of voices;
+neither did I hear any songs performed by men and women
+together, but invariably by men to other men, and by women
+to other women. It seems to me that the reason why they
+have no choruses is their strict etiquette, which forbids them to
+interrupt a speaker till he has finished his narrative; and as
+their songs are only narratives which the musical sing-song
+makes more impressive, it seems more than probable that the
+reason I have given is the right one. If a singer during his
+narrative stops, and is silent for a minute or two, another
+takes up the "lost chord" in exactly the same intonation of
+voice, asking a question or singing words of comfort, anger,
+or scorn, as the case may be; but no Ainu ever joins in the
+song before the person singing has stopped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>
+The hairy people are fond, not only of their own, but of all
+music, and their ear is acute enough to hit a tone or note when
+sung to them, and even to remember with more or less
+accuracy a short air after they have heard it two or three
+times. Many who have come in contact with the Japanese
+have learned from them songs of a totally different character
+from their own. Of my personal experience I can speak of a
+boy who, while I was sketching, heard me sing a few bars of
+the <i>Trovatore</i>. An hour or two later I heard him repeat
+this passage, certainly with an Ainu <i>libretto</i>, and somewhat
+Ainuized; but for all that he had managed to catch the
+melody, which showed that the lad must have had some
+musical instinct as well as a good musical memory.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 144px;">
+<img src="images/illus-258a.png" width="144" height="600" alt="MUKKO, OR MUSICAL INSTRUMENT" title="" />
+<span class="caption">A &quot;MUKKO,&quot; OR
+MUSICAL INSTRUMENT.</span></div>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 104px;">
+<img src="images/illus-258b.png" width="104" height="600" alt="SIDE VIEW OF THE MUKKO" title="" />
+<span class="caption">SIDE VIEW
+OF THE
+&quot;MUKKO.&quot;</span></div>
+
+<p>The Ainu are remarkably quick at reproducing sounds
+which are direct imitations of noises, cries of animals, &amp;c., and
+it is instinctive in them, as when children they are not taught
+or trained to do so. The education of Ainu children is indeed
+a thing far to seek in every way, and what they know is self-taught.
+Nature is their only school. The Ainu voice is
+pleasant, flexible, and very soft in quality. The men are
+mostly baritone and bass, the women alto; but when singing,
+a falsetto is preferred to the natural voice, especially by the
+women, and this always without an instrumental accompaniment.
+Musical instruments are more than rare among the
+Ainu; indeed, I saw only one, which is now in my own
+possession. It is a black-stained wooden instrument, fifty-one
+inches in length and three wide. The upper part is flat, the
+under is half a cylinder scooped out by a knife, while five keys
+are fixed in the short neck, in which a cavity is cut, leaving a
+space for the strings to be tied to each key. The top is
+circular, and flattened on each side. One very small hole is
+bored exactly in the middle of the instrument and another is
+at the lower end, where the point of a triangular piece of
+leather, seven inches long, is passed through and fastened by
+a knot tied in the leather on the opposite side. The five
+strings, which are of <i>Ulmus campestris</i> fibre, are fastened to
+this leather piece and then to each key. A peculiarity of this
+instrument is, that it has two prism-shaped bridges, and they
+are placed at each end of the harmonic case. The Ainu call
+it <i>mukko</i>, which word, however, means only a musical instrument;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>
+and as it is applied by them to all Japanese instruments
+of music, it shows that they do not distinguish very sharply
+one instrument from another. Though in my long journeying
+I found one of these <i>mukkos</i>, I was
+never able to discover any Ainu
+who could play on it, and the Ainu
+of Ishikari from whom I bought
+it told me that the man, the only
+one, who could play on it, was
+dead. This was unfortunate, as
+none of the others could tell me
+how he tuned it; and one old man,
+in attempting to solve the problem,
+broke three strings. Seeing that
+I was then quite unable to learn
+any of the tunes of the deceased
+Ainu Paganini I purchased the
+instrument, and found by cross-examining
+the natives that it was
+played by twanging the strings
+with the fingers, and not with a
+plectrum, as is the case with the
+Japanese <i>shamesen</i>. In the illustration
+I have faithfully drawn a
+front and a side view of this instrument,
+so as to give the reader an
+exact idea of its shape. The
+Ainu of Volcano Bay sometimes
+make bamboo jew's-harps for their
+children; but even those are very uncommon, so we might
+as well define Ainu music as entirely vocal. Ainu music is
+sentimental, and not displeasing, but it is monotonous, and
+continually repeats itself. It is difficult to establish a rule
+as to what order of intervals their music is founded on, as
+their progressions, modulations, and rhythmical effects are
+often so peculiar as to make it impossible to indicate them
+accurately by means of our musical notation; but the nearest
+approach to it is the diatonic minor scale. The Ainu are
+fond of chromatic intervals, and when their recital comes
+to an exciting point they make use of this method in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>
+<i>crescendo</i> to give strength to the narrative, especially at the
+end of the tune, which invariably winds up in the tonic. The
+intervals which are of most frequent occurrence in the Ainu
+tunes are as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-259.png" width="400" height="71" alt="" /></div>
+
+<p>The tunes seldom contain modulations from one key into
+another, except in the case of genius-gifted improvisators, who
+sometimes indulge in such a luxury, especially when intoxicated;
+but the usual modulation is generally begun <i>pianissimo</i>
+and in irregular time, and is sometimes like a slow lamentation
+gradually and irregularly increasing in force, some notes
+marked violently and the next very faintly, thus giving a
+weird effect of light and shade. When a sentence comes to an
+end, there is a chromatic interval <i>fortissimo</i>, and the keynote
+generally concludes the tune. The melody repeats itself
+again in the next sentence, sometimes altering the <i>pianissimo</i>
+into <i>fortissimo</i>, and <i>vice versâ</i>, according to the force which
+the narrator wishes to give to certain words. The Ainu, as far
+as I could judge, have no fixed rhythmical method, and each
+man constructs his own. Their melodies are generally short
+and simple, and the same phrases and passages&mdash;in fact, usually
+the whole melody&mdash;occur again and again in their songs. No
+Ainu melody that I heard was constructed according to any
+rule of musical form. All were invariably of one part only, in
+which the name of the tune was often applied to a certain
+form of rude poetical composition. For instance, some of the
+folk-lore legends&mdash;which, unfortunately, are not purely Ainu&mdash;are
+chanted in a musical intonation, and are a kind of extempore
+composition, though the roots of the songs and the verse
+have probably been brought down from former generations.
+This is proved by the preservation in them of some obsolete
+words and forms of speech which are never used in current
+conversation, and which none of the younger folks can understand
+or explain. I believe, however, that none of these
+legends are very old. The Ainu, having no written language,
+it is but natural that their tradition and legends should have
+been greatly changed and corrupted, especially by intercourse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>
+with the more imaginative Japanese. It is to be noted, however,
+that the Ainu, though to a certain extent as imitative as
+monkeys, have also a large amount of personality and originality,
+due to their shy and unsocial habits. This originality
+is not surprising when we remember that they are taught
+nothing, and that each man provides for himself and his family,
+but has no markedly friendly feelings towards his neighbours;
+in other words, it is a state of degradation very similar to that
+of wild animals. Perfect indifference is shown by the people
+of one village towards those of another. They are neither
+friends nor foes. All have a right to live, but as for helping
+one another, that is out of the question.</p>
+
+<p>Having no written documents, each man, in his easy-going
+manner, recites and sings as best pleases himself such verses
+or legends as he has heard from his father or from some other
+person, and the result is that, according to the reciter's greater
+or smaller poetical and musical tastes, the grandfather's composition,
+already altered by his father, is again altered by the
+son, which makes it a composition of his own. This transformation
+of a given theme is common even among civilised
+nations when people are set to repeat the same story verbally
+transmitted from one to the other&mdash;the version of the third
+person has but little in common with that of the first. If this
+we do with a spoken narrative, how much more with tunes
+learned by ear only, and characterised in the delivery by
+individual temperament and transient mood.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu do not teach these legends to their children, and
+if learned at all they are merely "picked up" by ear and, in a
+manner, at random; therefore, most Ainu profess ignorance as
+to their existence, and a man, when I asked him if he knew
+any, scornfully answered in these identical words, translated:&mdash;"The
+Ainu are taught nothing, and they know nothing."</p>
+
+<p>The few legends, &amp;c., that I heard were told me by Benry
+at Piratori, and by another old man, the chief of a village up
+the Saru River. The title of one was "Tushi-une-pan"&mdash;"Twice
+Below;" the story of Yoshitsune, a Japanese hero, and
+Samoro-kuru (a Japanese man-friend of Yoshitsune), who came
+to Yezo and had a great struggle with a huge fish, which was
+harpooned by them and disappeared twice under the water,
+capsizing the boat which contained the two fishermen.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>
+Yoshitsune's temper was roused, and he cut the <i>nipesh</i><a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>
+rope to which the harpoon was fastened. The fish went to
+die at the mouth of the Saru River, when plains of hemp
+sprouted out of its body.</p>
+
+<p>Another legend, called "Kimta-na," is a rather different and
+more simple version of Tushi-une-pan's story which I have
+just related.</p>
+
+<p>Yet another variant of the same legend is found in the
+"Inu-sapk"&mdash;or "A Summer Story" (literally translated:
+<i>Inu</i>, hear, relate; <i>sapk</i>, summer), which was so very confused
+that I could not make head or tail of its minuter details; but,
+like the "Kimta-na," it was about a famine in the Ainu land.</p>
+
+<p>Then there was a fourth, which went by the name of "Abe-ten-rui"&mdash;"Burning
+to embrace," or love-sick. It was again
+about Yoshitsune, who had fallen in love with a pretty Ainu
+maid, and could not eat either good or bad fish until she
+appeared to him in a dream. As Yoshitsune was a strong-minded
+man he got over his love, and taught the Ainu not to
+be deceived by woman's wiles.</p>
+
+<p>These and other similar legends, some of which do not bear
+repeating, being too improper, can be collected at Piratori or
+on Volcano Bay from the half-civilised Ainu; but I am inclined
+to think that they are mostly concoctions of Japanese
+ideas construed or misconstrued in the Ainu language.</p>
+
+<p>Ainu do not indulge in poetic compositions which have a
+definite metre, nor do they use special words for rhyme or
+rhythm; but all the words in their songs are intelligible, and
+seldom meaningless syllables are used, as in many of the
+chants of other savage nations. This of course is because, as
+has been said, their songs are merely a form of conversation
+adopted on certain occasions.</p>
+
+<p>Some of their music seems to have been suggested to them
+by such animal sounds as the plaintive howling of bears, wolves,
+and dogs.</p>
+
+<p>Music is believed by the Ainu to have the power of curing
+illness, or rather, of scaring away from the body those evil
+spirits which are supposed to have taken possession of it; but,
+when used as exorcism, the music is no longer grave, slow,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>
+and sentimental, but verily diabolical, consisting mainly of
+wild howling with an accompaniment of stamping feet and the
+rattling of sword and knife, and followed by a disgusting expectoration
+of chewed convolvulus roots, which are said to be
+powerful in expelling the evil spirit and restoring the sick
+person to health.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, music is invariably used by the Ainu&mdash;especially
+by the women&mdash;to facilitate manual labour, as when
+pounding millet, rowing, pulling canoes on shore, or drawing
+water from a well, when packing sea-weed, or when preparing
+salmon for the winter; and also in their games, which I have
+already described in the chapter on the festival at Piratori.</p>
+
+<p>During the process of pounding millet&mdash;which is only practised
+in the southern part of Yezo&mdash;two or three girls stand
+round a mortar in which the millet has been placed, and each
+girl, holding with both hands a pestle, beats and sings, one
+after the other, the words "<i>Huye, huye</i>," as the pestle is let
+down, increasing in loudness when the grain requires harder
+pounding, and slowly decreasing in volume towards the end.
+This pounding begins about sunset, and the place chosen for
+the operation is generally the small porch of the huts. It has
+indeed a weird effect to hear these many voices from the
+distant huts gradually dying away as darkness comes on, till
+finally only two or three break the stillness of the coming
+night. Then even those wear away, and everything becomes
+as silent as the grave.</p>
+
+<p>When riding on horseback, especially if alone, young men
+are fond of singing, and when going through forests, chopping
+and collecting firewood, Ainu invariably sing.</p>
+
+<p>I have often heard two or three Ainu, when packing sea-weed
+within a few yards of one another, each singing to himself,
+and each so much absorbed in his own composition as not
+to even hear his neighbours. An Ainu does not and cannot
+sing unless he feels in the mood for it; but if he sings he is
+carried away by his own music. Of course this is a good
+quality in Ainu music, as in all arts where "feeling" is to be
+appreciated as much as execution. The latter is to be got by
+constant practice and teaching; but the first has to be born
+in one.</p>
+
+<p>My readers must forgive me if I am judging Ainu music,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>
+not from the European, but from the native standpoint, for I
+think it is only fair to give things as they are, without too
+much reference to our own ideas.</p>
+
+<p>With savage nations, music is the expression of the feelings
+and passions of the musician. Thus, it is necessary to well
+know the man himself before we can understand his productions
+and appreciate them; and such knowledge is only
+attained by constantly living with natives, not as a mere
+stranger, but as one of them.</p>
+
+<p>Very few travellers have seen the real Ainu, or studied them
+accurately, while many, partly owing to their inability to
+differentiate one race from another, have given us highly
+imaginative descriptions, and even photographs, of Japanese
+half-castes and actual Japanese, describing them as Ainu. If
+such worthy ethnologists as have visited the "civilised part
+only" of the Ainu country, have been unable to distinguish
+types of the hairy Ainu race from those of the hairless
+Japanese, or from mixtures of the two, undoubtedly racial
+characteristics have been but imperfectly recorded.</p>
+
+<p>It is more particularly in music and poetry, as I have
+already explained, that temperamental characteristics are
+shown, and one ought to be careful to clearly define what is
+native music and poetry&mdash;in which I include legends, traditions,
+and folk-lore&mdash;and what has been transmitted by neighbouring
+and conquering races. Loud music is not appreciated
+by the Ainu, and makes them grin with more scorn than
+enjoyment. I could only try experiments in this direction by
+singing to them, as I had no European musical instruments
+with me; but I found that singing <i>con brio</i> at the top of my
+voice was not so pleasing to them as when I sang <i>piano con
+passione</i>. For instance, the song "Toreador," in the opera
+<i>Carmen</i>, created fits of merriment from a crowd at Frishikobets,
+while the same crowd, a few minutes later, listened
+attentively and silently to Gounod's "Ave Maria," sung in a
+kind of "miaoling" voice.</p>
+
+<p>I may here mention incidentally, to show the different
+musical tastes of Ainu and Japanese, that some months previous
+to this I was at a concert at Tokio in which the same
+"Ave Maria" was performed by some distinguished European
+musicians. The large Japanese audience, who had been attentive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span>
+and well-composed till then, went into fits of laughter
+when Gounod's masterpiece was played, and all through it the
+noise of people laughing was so great as to drown entirely the
+orchestra and singers. Some of the women in the audience
+nearly went into hysterics at the long <i>legato</i> notes at the
+beginning of the piece. Louder melodies and of a livelier
+character did not affect them so. I wish to draw attention
+to this fact, that amongst all primitive peoples the native music
+is sad and slow&mdash;the livelier melodies coming later; and also,
+that with both wild and domestic animals the most noteworthy
+effects are produced by slow and simple music. We all know
+how dogs will remain quiet and calm when a soft and gentle air
+is played, but get furious to the point of savageness under the
+"plan-plan-rataplan" of a merry noisy tune. As for the last
+item connected with Ainu music, viz., dancing, it is rarely
+practised, even by the Ainu women, to whom alone it pertains.
+At the best it is of a very rude form. In the Piratori festival
+(<a href="#Page_30">Chapter IV.</a>) we have seen that their dancing is accompanied
+by rhythmical sounds imitating the noises produced by implements
+in everyday use, as the squeaking of a paddle by the
+friction on the canoe, the cry which accompanies the pounding
+of millet, blowing alight the fire, and similar sounds. Time is
+kept by clapping the hands and by vociferations which tell the
+partners what position or action to assume, each action being
+accompanied by a different sound, but all performed while the
+hopping is kept up. I have not felt justified in classifying
+these rhythmical sounds, which accompany the dancing, as
+choruses, for there is not enough in them to constitute either a
+tune or a melody. They are suggested more by the action of
+the arms and upper part of the body than by the steps; in fact,
+if it were not for the continuous hopping it would be more
+accurate to describe Ainu dancing as "posturing." The
+dancers form a circle, with sometimes one or two children in the
+centre. As there are no professional musicians, there are no
+professional dancers; but though each man may be his own
+composer of music, the women never alter their dances, which
+are handed down unchanged from one generation to another.
+It is only at festivals that the dance is performed, and never
+inside the huts, but in the open air. It is not for the amusement
+of spectators, for besides one or two of the older women,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>
+spectators there are none; but it is for the enjoyment of the
+dancers themselves. The men do not seem to take the
+slightest interest in the dancing, and apparently regard it as
+unmanly. They remain in the hut drinking while the girls
+enjoy themselves in this way outside, and should one of them
+by chance come out, he would stop and look on no more than
+men in civilised countries would stop and watch little children
+at play. On the other hand, on such occasions Ainu matrons
+squat in a semicircle not far from the dancers, and keep up
+a lament-like or sometimes quarrelsome conversation among
+themselves, and occasionally encourage the girls in their
+hopping, and suggesting <i>encores</i> of this figure or that, which,
+between one quarrel and another, has taken their fancy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illus-265.png" width="400" height="104" alt="A WOODEN PIPE" />
+<span class="caption">A WOODEN PIPE.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></p>
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVI.<br />
+<span class="small">Heredity&mdash;Crosses&mdash;Psychological Observations.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The mental qualities of the Ainu are not many, and what
+they have are by no means great; nor are they improved by
+education, for what they know comes more from inheritance
+than personal acquirement, though naturally every rule has its
+exceptions. I repeatedly noticed that talent, such as it was,
+ran in certain families, the members of which were all more
+or less intelligent. Certain families were more musical than
+others; other families were more artistic&mdash;if, indeed, such a
+word could be applied to the very low development of the
+artistic faculty when at its best among the hairy people.
+Various members of one household were potently insane;
+others were as potently idiotic. I shall not class under this
+heading of heredity transmitted disease, like leprosy, consumption,
+&amp;c., but I shall limit myself to heredity in physical
+traits and mental qualities. Unfortunately, with the Ainu
+intercourse between the sexes is so imperfectly regulated as
+to often lead one to erroneous conclusions. The reader may
+easily imagine the difficulty of establishing precise rules of
+transmission in a race like the Ainu, where castes are not
+marked, with the exception of the chieftainship in each village,
+the only necessary qualifications for which are a sound, sharp
+intellect, a strong physique, and personal courage. The office
+is hereditary if these qualifications are also inherited; but
+should the sons or brothers of the chief prove unworthy of his
+place, the Ainu would assemble in a "village council" and elect
+another strong, clear-headed, and brave man in place of the
+<i>roi fainéant</i> thus summarily deposed. These chiefs have no
+absolute authority, though the men often consult them in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>
+their quarrels and difficulties, which they are asked to settle.
+Thus, because of these qualities necessary for the office, these
+chiefs are a slightly superior type to the other natives; for
+with savages, as with civilised people, sharp-witted, strong, and
+brave men are naturally of a finer type than those who are
+their inferiors in these qualities: but the difference among the
+best Ainu and the worst is so small that I do not feel justified
+in classing chiefs as of a different caste. Besides, exceptional
+beauty, strength, or larger stature is not necessarily transmitted
+in the families of chiefs, nor do the Ainu themselves consider
+them better-looking than others.</p>
+
+<p>As Ainu laws of marriage have no relation to the physical
+and moral improvement of the race, the only way of classifying
+the natives for purposes of heredity is by tribes, each village
+being considered as a tribe. Ainu villages are generally very
+small, and the inhabitants of each village intermarry among
+themselves, therefore each member of the community is in
+some way related to every other member; hence heredity in
+certain physical traits, mental qualities, and diseases shows
+itself in one community and not in another. The difficulty of
+tracing the exact connection of each individual with his or her
+relations beyond the acknowledged father and mother also
+baffles research in more minute details. Abnormal formations
+are sometimes transmitted to many members of one tribe, as, for
+instance, the hare-lip and webbed fingers, of which deformities
+two or three specimens could be found in a small village
+numbering fifteen or twenty houses. Malformation of the
+umbilicus is common&mdash;sometimes in almost every member of
+one small community&mdash;while it is very rare in others. Children
+are mostly affected by this, as in some villages the cord is not
+treated at all at birth; and this leads to an abnormality till
+the child grows older, when the few who survive seem to get
+all right. In other villages the cord is fastened in a very
+primitive, not to say imperfect, manner, with a common string
+of <i>Ulmus campestris</i> fibre.</p>
+
+<p>Albinism is very uncommon among the Ainu. I do not
+know of any case when it has been transmitted, as albinos
+are greatly disregarded by the Ainu, and, I was told, seldom
+marry.</p>
+
+<p>Red hair, or hair with red shades in it, is common among<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>
+the Ainu of the north-east coast of Yezo, and also among the
+Kurilsky Ainu of Shikotan, where nearly all the children have
+light hair. It darkens considerably as they grow older, as
+many of the men said they had light hair when young, which
+turned dark with age. Members of certain communities have
+inherited the love of bear-hunting; others the love of fishing;
+some tribes have a musical aptitude, and a certain artistic
+talent for rough ornamentations on wood; others have
+developed their inherited power of sustaining hunger and
+thirst. The only characteristic which all the different tribes
+have inherited, without exception, is love for intoxicating
+drinks; and this love is not only inherited by thoroughbred
+Ainu, but also by half-castes.</p>
+
+<p>Mixed marriages between Japanese and Ainu are frequent,
+but the progeny are unfortunate beings, of whom a large percentage
+die when very young: those who live are generally
+malformed, ill-natured, and often idiotic. Their sight and
+hearing are not so acute as with the pure Ainu, and crosses
+are said to be sterile, with very few exceptions. If children of
+second crosses are born they seldom live to be more than five
+years old.</p>
+
+<p>Half-breeds are invariably from a Japanese man with an
+Ainu woman, but occasionally an Ainu man marries or
+cohabits with a half-caste woman. I have never seen a pure-blood
+Ainu man marry a pure-blood Japanese woman. The
+majority of half-breeds are males: I should think two-thirds
+males and one-third females. The half-caste women are
+physically finer than the men, but they are said to be very
+generally, if not uniformly, sterile.</p>
+
+<p>The products of the first cross greatly resemble in general
+look the Ainu parent, without being quite as hairy, though
+still very hairy; but a strange peculiarity is, that they get
+bald while quite young. One can easily detect them by their
+eyes, which are frequently like those of the Japanese, by the
+wide flat forehead, and by the pose of the head, which inclines
+forward. They generally walk with their toes turned in,
+instead of keeping their feet perfectly straight, like the pure
+Ainu. The moral and intellectual position of these half-breeds
+is a pitiful one. They are rejected by both the Ainu
+and Japanese, and are held inferior to both alike.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span>
+A high moral standard, whether got from philosophic
+breadth or Christian virtues, does not suit a despised barbarian
+race like the Ainu. Nothing could or does kill them
+quicker than civilisation. Experiments have been tried to
+civilise certain Ainu: they were made to wash, bathe, and
+live in comfortable, clean quarters: they were instructed and
+got good food; but after a few months they had to be sent
+back to their native place and ways, for civilisation only killed
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The half-castes have none of the good qualities of either
+race. They are neither as brave as the Ainu nor courteous
+and light-hearted like the Japanese. The following remarks,
+which I take direct from my diary, were written by me
+between Shimokebo and Tomakomai, on the south-west coast
+of Yezo, where many half-breeds are found along the sea-shore,
+and I shall pass them on untouched to my readers.</p>
+
+<p>"The Ainu along this coast were decidedly ugly. Many half-breeds
+are also found along this coast. These half-breeds
+invariably grow bald in early life, whereas the Ainu do not.
+The hair on their back, arms, and legs is not so long or so
+thick as with the pure Ainu. Their teeth are neither so strong
+nor so sound. As is usually the case when a mixture of two
+or more races takes place, the lower and upper jaws not being
+of the right proportion, it follows as a matter of course that
+unusual pressure and friction injure and wear out the enamel of
+the teeth, thus causing premature decay. The Americans and
+Australians are good examples of this premature decay caused
+by the disproportion of the upper and lower jaws. Also, teeth
+which do not fit well together sometimes grow so long as to
+be a nuisance to the person who owns them. I found that
+these half-breeds have all the bad qualities of both the Ainu
+and the Japanese, and have not retained any of the good ones.
+They are ill-tempered, lazy, and vindictive. It is well to
+mention that, on the Japanese side, they have come mostly
+from the criminals exported by the Japanese Government,
+which fact partly explains why they are so evil-minded and
+untrustworthy. Instead of falling into the more civilised ways
+of the Japanese, these half-breeds prefer the wild life of their
+Ainu ancestors; and if anything they are wilder than the Ainu
+themselves. Insanity is very common among half-breeds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>
+The head is in most instances of an abnormal size; the frontal
+bone is generally more sloping than with the thoroughbred
+Ainu; and though the skull be wide from one temple to the
+other, it is not spacious enough from the frontal bone to the
+back of the head. They have heads so shaped that the animal
+propensities are in excess of the moral and mental faculties.
+In thoroughbred Ainu I found the bumps of amativeness,
+philoprogenitiveness, and tune very well developed. In the
+half-breeds these bumps hardly show at all, and in some cases
+the back of the head&mdash;where the two first bumps are found&mdash;is
+almost flat.</p>
+
+<p>"Ainu half-breeds never live to be very old. They are often
+affected with rheumatism&mdash;<i>kaki</i>, a disease peculiar to the Far
+East&mdash;leprosy, and consumption, and they suffer from these
+diseases much more than do the pure Ainu. I found leprosy
+quite common among half-breeds&mdash;while I have seen but few
+Ainu affected with it. In most instances, though, leprosy had
+only attained its first stages&mdash;contraction of fingers and subsequent
+dropping off of the three phalanges, ears, and nose; but
+this may be explained by the fact that the sufferers in general
+succumb before the disease attains its more serious character,
+when the whole body is visibly affected by it."</p>
+
+<p>Precise laws as to the degree of quickness of perception,
+power of reasoning, and learning of the Ainu race cannot be
+given, for, as I have mentioned before, almost each individual
+would require a special rule for himself. My readers may
+have noticed that, while some Ainu were but little above
+monkeys, others were sharp, and gave answers very much to
+the point. This may apparently be regarded as a contradiction
+on my part by people who have neither lived with
+savages, nor studied the temperament of beasts. But it is not
+a contradiction. There are in this world clever monkeys and
+stupid monkeys: some can never be made to learn any tricks;
+others will learn them in no time. Intelligence is instinctive,
+and not acquired, though of course it can be greatly developed
+with education; thus, the Ainu are instinctively intelligent,
+but I wish my readers clearly to understand that their intelligence
+does not go much further than that of an intelligent
+monkey, though of course the Ainu have the advantage
+over beasts of being able to talk, and therefore, to a limited<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>
+extent, discuss and combine. The Ainu memory is a perfect
+blank in certain respects, as with arithmetic, science, mechanics,
+reading, writing, drawing, and delineating maps; while in other
+directions it seems to be fairly keen, as in hunting, fishing,
+tracking, and acquiring languages up to a certain point.
+This last faculty is noticeable in nearly all the lowest
+races, as the Australian aborigines, the Tasmanian natives
+(now extinct), the Tierra del Fuegians, &amp;c. The Ainu ideas
+of time are vague, and if you add to that the extreme
+difficulty which they experience in counting even up to ten,
+and their inability to count beyond that number, it is easy
+to understand why we can never learn the exact age of Ainu
+individuals.</p>
+
+<p>Like the monkeys, the Ainu cannot concentrate their attention,
+and they are easily wearied. Beads and shiny objects
+have a fascination for them; but other objects, even perfectly
+new to them, arouse but little curiosity, which soon passes, and
+they show no intelligence and less imagination as to the probable
+use of these strange objects. They show no inquisitiveness,
+and no wish to be taught the use of anything new and
+unfamiliar.</p>
+
+<p>It will be remembered that at Yamakubiro, on the Tokachi
+River, beyond the natural astonishment caused by the first
+appearance of my ponies, the strange baggage, and myself, the
+Ainu did not pay much attention to this novel sight, and did
+not show any wish to have it explained, while more civilised
+people, like the Japanese, would not have been satisfied until I
+had shown and explained every article in my possession, and
+allowed each person to try its use, &amp;c., after which they
+would talk for hours of what they had seen. The Ainu are
+not "built" so, and therefore they have never made any progress.
+In the more civilised parts of Yezo we have a proof of
+it. Their backwardness in acquiring the habits and customs
+of their conquerors the Japanese, arises from incapacity more
+than from conservatism. Yet for all that the Ainu are so incapable
+of improving themselves, they are very persevering
+in what they do attempt, as in their rough wooden carvings,
+the hollowing of their "dug-outs," the construction of their
+wooden tools and weapons, the weaving of their rough garments,
+and the ornamentation thereof; but in all these they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>
+appear to act more automatically than with keen and constructive
+intelligence.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are not to be taken <i>au pied de la lettre</i>, for the
+illusions produced by ignorance and untutored imagination
+prevent anything like literal accuracy; but they are not what
+we may call conscious and immoral liars. A good example
+of this is my adventure at Horobets, when, although they
+knew that they would be severely punished by the Japanese
+policeman, the Ainu confessed their attack on me, and did not
+attempt either denial or evasion. They are often plucky, and
+even distinctly courageous; as, when out bear-hunting, a man
+armed only with a large and not over sharp knife unhesitatingly
+attacks this formidable beast, who sits up on his hind
+quarters, sure to crush the life out of his assailant should he
+miss his stroke. The Ainu, protecting his head with his left
+arm, and having taken the precaution to cover his back with
+skins, goes merrily for the embrace; and while Bruin squeezes,
+the hairy man splits its body open with the large knife.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are cool-blooded. They are not subject to strong
+emotions, and therefore they are not much affected by dreams
+and nightmares. They are not affectionate except for a
+momentary impulse; but, like most animals, they are faithful
+when they love. Mothers are fond of their children till they
+have reached puberty; but after that the affection seems to
+fade away. Paternal love is much less strong.</p>
+
+<p>The pure Ainu are comparatively honest people, which may
+be due to the incapacity for being dishonest. In a country
+where there is no exact definition of property, where anybody
+can get what he requires without resorting to theft, there is no
+reason why everybody should not be honest. Then, according
+to Ainu ideas, stealing is not always stealing. For instance,
+if an Ainu, without asking, takes away some of the salmon
+caught by one of his hairy brethren, he will be blamed for it,
+he will get into a row, and probably be beaten; but if the
+theft is perpetrated on a Japanese or a stranger he will be
+praised, though the Ainu well knows that he is not acting
+right. Their desire is stronger than their conscience, such as
+it is; and having no laws of their own to rule them worth
+speaking of, they often do according to their desire, without
+deserving the accusation of conscious dishonesty. It is exactly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>
+the same case as when a dog jumps on the dining-table when
+everybody is absent and carries off the leg of mutton which
+he knows he ought not to touch; but the temptation was too
+strong, and he could not resist it. The Ainu are fond of independence,
+though in many instances I found them gentle, and
+apparently submissive to a stronger will than their own. The
+field of their brain-power is of course very narrow, and the
+same rough, rude, primitive thoughts and ideas are constantly
+repeated in their conversation as well as in their designs.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 491px;">
+<img src="images/illus-274.jpg" width="491" height="600" alt="PACKING SEQWEED FOR WINTER USE" />
+<span class="caption">NAKED AINU MAN FROM THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF YEZO, PACKING
+SEAWEED FOR WINTER USE.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVII.<br />
+<span class="small">Physiological Observations&mdash;Pulse-beat and Respiration&mdash;Exposure&mdash;Odour
+of the Ainu&mdash;The Five Senses.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The following physiological remarks are mostly from observations
+made on Ainu of the Upper Tokachi district, the natives
+of which have had no communication with Europeans and
+little with Japanese previous to my own visit to them. Observations
+made on the semi-civilised Ainu of Volcano Bay and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>
+Piratori, on those of the north-east and west coasts, and the
+Ishikari River, as well as on half-castes of different districts,
+have been taken into consideration.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the lack of a clinical thermometer and other
+instruments, I, unfortunately, was not able to ascertain the
+normal temperature of the body; nor could I get any very
+accurate observations as to the frequency of the pulse-beat,
+owing to the miserable condition of my watch and the difficult
+task of getting natives to sit perfectly still while their pulse
+was felt. A superstitious fear, too, that some evil would
+befall them accelerated the pulsations, and they invariably
+moved away rubbing the spot I had touched on their wrist.
+Though I could not count the exact number of pulsations to
+a minute, the movement of the pulse was as a rule slow and
+rather weak. Respirations were fourteen to seventeen to a
+minute in men, and about sixteen to twenty in women, and
+the respiratory movements were similar in both sexes, viz.,
+costal breathing was predominant. In half-castes I have
+sometimes noticed abdominal breathing.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu not only bear cold well, but prefer it to heat,
+though, indeed, their country is never very hot. The sun's
+rays have no fascination for them, as with so many other races;
+and I have seldom seen Ainu basking in the sun for purely
+physical pleasure, although they go about with uncovered
+heads, and do not seem to suffer any ill effects from the practice.
+The Ainu of Piratori wear Japanese hats of wicker-work;
+and others, especially women, tie round their head a
+Japanese towel&mdash;a fashion, as we have seen, also adopted
+from the Japanese. With this head-dress the crown of the
+head is left uncovered.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are not massively formed, but they are sturdy,
+and, as we have seen, can bear almost any amount of privation
+as regards food and drink. Sleep is necessary to them, and
+they require a great deal to be in anything like good condition.
+The sleeping hours are generally from an hour or so
+after sunset to sunrise; but during the day they are often
+drowsy, and turn in to have a siesta after food and exercise.
+In men the voice is soft and deep; shriller but still gentle in
+women. The Ainu seldom perspire, partly because the pores
+of their skin are blocked with dirt; partly because their long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>
+hair absorbs a great quantity of natural moisture; and mostly
+because they do not drink much except when they can get
+hold of intoxicants.</p>
+
+<p>The skin is greasy&mdash;the natural result of many years of
+an unwashed existence; and this gives to the hairy people a
+peculiar and strong odour, much resembling that of monkeys.
+Many are familiar with the peculiar odour of an uncleaned
+monkey's cage, and the same, intensified a thousand times,
+characterises an Ainu village. Hundreds of yards off you can
+distinctly smell out a village, or if the wind is blowing towards
+you, that peculiar odour is perceptible for a full half-mile.
+Although the sense of smell is acute in the Ainu&mdash;for they
+sometimes employ it in tracking animals&mdash;they are not aware
+of their own strong odour; but they are quick in distinguishing
+that of other races. I have several times heard Ainu of the
+coast remark that I possessed a different odour from that of
+the Japanese; but they could neither define it nor assimilate
+it to that of any animal they knew, though several of them one
+day held a lengthy pow-wow about it; and in the interest of
+anthropology I submitted to the unpleasant process of being
+smelt all over by them. The Chinese unanimously assert that
+Europeans smell like sheep, and they say this is the reason we
+constantly wash and bathe, being aware of our infirmity, and
+doing our best to diminish it by soap and water. We ourselves
+attribute to Jews one distinct odour, and yet another to
+the Russians; not to speak of those belonging to the negroes,
+the Chinese, and, in fact, all other nations. Thus, the odour
+has some importance in the classification of peoples, as it
+largely depends on the kind of food as well as the personal
+habits of a race. Meat-eaters smell differently from fish-eaters,
+and these again from vegetarians. As regards the
+Ainu, their filthy habits of course increase their offensiveness,
+while bodily exercise renders them intolerable. The Japanese
+recognise the Ainu odour as a distinguishing mark of the race,
+and Japanese fishermen have often said to me, "<i>Aino shto
+taihen kusai</i>"; "<i>Saru</i>," or else "<i>Kumma onaji koto</i>"&mdash;"Ainu
+men smell bad, just like a monkey or a bear."</p>
+
+<p>As an Ainu grows older this peculiarity increases. The
+weaker sex is generally more "strongly scented" than are the
+men, owing to the fact that women wear skins and rough cloth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>
+rags nearly all the year round, while in summer the men go
+about either entirely naked, or very lightly clad.</p>
+
+<p>On the north-east coast of Yezo and in Shikotan (Kurile
+Islands) I saw some Ainu who, contrary to the rule, had red
+hair, and their animal odour was terribly offensive. The Ainu
+do not use any unguents like palm-oil, cocoanut-oil, or the like,
+by which the unpleasantness of certain African tribes and
+Eastern peoples is to be accounted for. What they have is
+natural and national, and due to their food, habits, and race
+alone.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu have no partiality or dislike for any particular
+scents, and their sense of smell shows itself mainly in their
+power of tracking game or animals, as was said before. The
+same might be said of the sense of "touch," which they seldom
+apply practically, notwithstanding their sensitiveness in certain
+parts of the body, especially under the arm-pits and on each
+side of the spinal column and the back of the head&mdash;just those
+parts which in most animals are the most sensitive; but they
+have no developed sense of touch in their finger-tips, as with
+civilised nations.</p>
+
+<p>Most Ainu find it difficult to declare which is the heavier of
+two not very unequal weights. Differences in the temperature
+of two bodies, and in the smoothness or texture of two
+surfaces, are also extremely difficult for them to define, while
+it is easy for them to judge of weights and texture by eyesight.
+The palms of the hands, which are so sensitive with
+us, owing to the papillæ being more thickly studded there
+than in other parts of the body, are less intelligently sensitive
+with the Ainu. When they touch cold or hot objects they
+feel pain, but not difference of temperature, as when with us
+a wound is touched it makes little difference whether it is by
+something hot or cold, it is simply pain, and not discrimination.
+Their lips, as well as the tip of the tongue, are slightly more
+sensitive; the lower lip more so than the upper. I was never
+able to determine the relative sensibility of the sensitive parts
+of the Ainu body, as my experiments either caused anger and
+impatience, or hilarity and mockery. If the first, the observations
+had to be stopped before they were well begun; if the
+second, beyond the general results which I have quoted, the
+answers were mere guesswork on their part, and therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>
+not worth recording. Most of my observations are based on
+experiments made while the men were unaware that they
+were observed at all. Often, when asleep, I have touched
+them on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands
+without causing them to awake, while when touched on the
+lower lip or in the lumbar region they invariably woke up
+startled. One day I tried this experiment on an Ainu who
+was sleeping on his back, with his mouth wide open. I
+touched his tongue with a well-sharpened lead-pencil, and
+the effect was subitaneous; more so than on either the lips or
+the lumbar region. The skin directly over the spine was dull,
+but the ears showed a certain amount of sensibility. The
+sense of "taste," which is a mere modification of the sense of
+touch, is also dull, although naturally, when stimulated by
+very acid or bitter substances, it produced distinct impressions.
+Even with ourselves, though more perfected than the sense of
+smell&mdash;which, however, often comes to its assistance&mdash;few can
+boast of having the sense of taste very acute. In our lower
+classes an extraordinary amount of salt, mustard, pepper, or
+sugar is needed before they can call their food "tasty,"
+whereas a person of more refined education will detect the
+lack or excess of even the smallest portion. Over-stimulation
+of the lingual nerves and extremes of heat or cold deaden
+the sensibility of the tongue, palate, and fauces, and destroy
+the power of distinguishing flavours; bad digestion also
+frequently affects the organs of taste. From this we may
+argue, then, that the sense of taste, though born in one, has
+to be cultivated before it is brought to any degree of refinement.
+The Ainu not only do not possess this acquired
+refinement, but, through monotony of food, learn only one
+kind of flavour, and cannot distinguish differences. Thus, as
+many labourers in our country would not find any difference
+between a beef-steak slightly underdone and one over-cooked,
+so an Ainu finds no difference whatever between a piece of
+salmon properly dried and one perfectly rotten. In this
+respect the Ainu are far below beasts.</p>
+
+<p>In tribes of natives like the Ainu, who have lived an
+adventurous life, mostly in the open air, it is but natural that
+the two senses of "sight" and "hearing" should be more
+developed than those of "touch," "smell" and "taste;"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>
+as life itself depends mostly on their accuracy and acuteness.
+The Ainu possess good sight. Inflammation of the eyes is
+very common among their children, owing to their filthy condition;
+but it seldom affects their permanent sight; very few
+Ainu suffer either from myopy or cataract, or other eye affections
+such as are frequent among civilised and more studious
+nations. In very warm climates, where the sun is powerful
+and the light strong, the eyes are generally shielded by
+specially long and thick eyelashes and eyebrows, which last
+prevent the sweat from running down the forehead into the
+orbit; but, strange to say, the Ainu, who are a northern race,
+and have always lived in cold climates, have eyelashes even
+longer and thicker than any race of people in tropical climates.
+The iris is of a somewhat greyish tint, sometimes traversed
+with brown shades. The white of the eye is less pearly than
+with Caucasian races, and the eyes, shaded as they are by long
+eyelashes and heavy eyelids, seem to possess all the qualities
+necessary for abnormally long vision. And this we find to be
+the case, for the Ainu can distinguish objects a long way off,
+but they are dense as to minutiæ. In other words, the eye of
+an Ainu is ready to receive an impression, but very slow in
+transmitting to the brain the impression received.</p>
+
+<p>As we have seen, they cannot reproduce the "human form
+divine," or any faithful representation of anything animate or
+inanimate which they have seen. They see <i>en gros</i>; thus,
+should an Ainu's attention be drawn to some very distant
+object rapidly moving on the shore, he will at once say that it
+is a horse, because he knows that the chances are it is a horse,
+but he will be unable to describe its colour, and whether cantering
+or galloping, saddled or unsaddled, by a single glance at
+the horse, unless his attention is called to each particular detail,
+when he will answer each question correctly enough. The
+Ainu vision is then strong, but the brain is not quick in response.
+Testing their sight by "test dots," as used in the
+British Army, was not a success, greatly owing to their inability
+to count and the inaccuracy of their answers.</p>
+
+<p>The most fully-developed sense in the hairy people is, in
+my opinion, that of hearing. Distant sounds are clearly recognised
+and specified, and they are also aware that by placing
+one ear near the ground, far-off sounds of horse's hoofs and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span>
+like can be clearly distinguished. The ticking of a Waterbury
+watch could be heard by Ainu at a distance of twenty and
+twenty-two feet, while I could only hear it nineteen feet away.
+I was often struck by the quickness with which they detected
+the tick-tack even when the watch was in my pocket, and they
+were six or eight feet away. The unusual sound fixed their
+attention and made them curious as to the cause, and they
+showed a childish kind of surprise and delight when the
+watch was produced and passed round among them, each one
+being allowed to enjoy his share of the ticking.</p>
+
+<p>Resuming these few remarks on the characteristic points of
+Ainu senses, my readers will probably have noticed certain
+facts which strongly support Darwin's theory of evolution, and
+the hairy arboreal ancestor with pointed ears from which the
+races of men are descended.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;">
+<img src="images/illus-281.jpg" width="248" height="339" alt="TROPHY OF BEARS' SKULLS" />
+<span class="caption">TROPHY OF BEARS&#39; SKULLS.</span></div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVIII.<br />
+<span class="small">The Ainu Superstitions&mdash;Morals&mdash;Laws and Punishments.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>I cannot begin this chapter better than by saying that Ainu
+religious ideas are essentially chaotic. They recognise no
+supreme God, and no intelligent Creator; and they cannot be
+called polytheists, for indeed they are not <i>worshippers</i> of any
+power&mdash;taking the word in its full meaning. The Ainu
+worship nothing.</p>
+
+<p>If they have any belief at all it is an imperfect kind of
+Totemism, and the central point of that belief is their own
+descent from the "bear." This does not include the smallest
+reverence for their ancestor. They capture their "Totem"
+and keep it in captivity; they speak to it and feed it; but no
+prayers are offered to it. When the bear is fat, it is taken out
+of the cage to be ill-treated and baited by all the men present.
+It is tied to a stake and a pole is thrust into its mouth; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>
+when the poor beast has been sufficiently tortured, pricked
+with pointed sticks, shot at with blunted arrows, bruised with
+stones, maddened with rage and ill-usage, it is killed outright,
+and, "ancestor" as it may be, it makes the chief dish and <i>raison
+d'être</i> of a festival, where all the members of the tribe partake
+of its flesh. The owner of the hut in which the feast takes place
+then sticks the skull on to a forked pole, and sets it outside
+with the others at the east end of his hut. The skin is made
+into garments, or is spread on the ground to sleep on.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to this rudimentary kind of Totemism&mdash;if I
+may call it so&mdash;the Ainu show a certain amount of fear and
+respect for anything which supports their life or can destroy it.
+This, however, is under the form of an "instinct" rather than
+a "religious feeling." Dumb animals of any kind are similarly
+affected by powers which they cannot explain; but as we
+would not think for a moment that when a dog is barking at
+the moon the dog is worshipping the orb of night, or when it
+basks in the sun that it is offering prayers and reverence to
+the orb of day, no more should we think that the Ainu, who
+are not much above dumb animals, worship all they respect
+and fear.</p>
+
+<p>If other writers, most of whom have never visited the Ainu
+country, had not written on this subject, I would have limited
+myself to saying that the Ainu, properly speaking, have no
+religion, but as certain untenable theories and false ideas have
+been published, I feel bound to state what I know on the
+subject, that, so far as I can, I may correct these erroneous
+impressions. I regard myself as qualified to speak with some
+authority, as I am the <i>only</i> foreigner who has seen and studied
+<i>all</i> the different tribes of Ainu in Yezo and the Kuriles; while
+other writers, the few who have actually been there, have
+based their statements on a few half-castes or Ainu in the
+more civilised part of southern Yezo, collecting from them
+ideas left behind by previous travellers, and offering them
+to the public as purely Ainu. That these hasty travellers and
+cursory writers have been deceived, or have deceived themselves,
+is not astonishing; for it must be borne in mind that
+the Ainu language is as poor in words as the Ainu brain is
+deficient in thoughts. Thus it is no easy matter to explain to
+an Ainu what is meant by "religion," by "divinities," and by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>
+"worship." The nearest approach can be made only by
+comparisons and analogies, which often lead far from the
+point aimed at. Like all savages and barbarians, the Ainu
+are more apt to answer as they think will please the questioner
+than to give a definition of their own beliefs. The manner in
+which a question is put gives the keynote to the reply, which
+is in no sense an independent statement of their own thoughts.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, if you were to say to an Ainu, "You are old,
+are you not?" he would answer "Yes"; but if you asked the
+same man, "You are not old, are you?" he would equally
+answer "Yes." Knowingly speaking the truth is not one of
+their characteristics; indeed, they do not know the difference
+between falsehood and truth. This is a common failing with
+all savages as well as with all Orientals; but with the Ainu it
+is even more accentuated; and when, in addition to this, the
+difficulty of making them understand exactly what one
+means is taken into consideration, it is not astonishing that a
+traveller arrives at a wrong conclusion if the utmost pains be
+not taken in pursuing one's investigations.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the Ainu who have come in contact with
+Japanese know of a God, and some of them, at the instigation
+of Japanese <i>bonzes</i>, have become nominal Buddhists.
+Benry, at Piratori, showed me a small Buddhist shrine, of
+Japanese manufacture, which had been put up on a neighbouring
+hill. All the time I stayed at Piratori I never observed
+any Ainu worship at it. One day I saw two boys throwing
+stones at it, but that could hardly be called an act of reverence,
+even among my hairy friends.</p>
+
+<p>On my inquiring as to the origin and use of the shrine, I
+was told by some that it was erected to the God of the
+Japanese. Benry, who was always "well informed," both in
+things that he knew and those that he did not know, said that
+it was built in honour of Yoshitsune, the Japanese personage
+who, as we have seen, is the hero in semi-Ainu legends, and
+whose image or spirit, according to travellers' tales, is worshipped
+by the Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>It always appeared strange to me that the Piratori Ainu
+had this Japanese hero in their legends, but still more strange
+that they should make him their deity. Yet what was most
+singular of all was, that with the exception of Benry and a few<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span>
+others at Piratori, no other Ainu I met in any other part of
+Yezo seemed to know about Yoshitsune&mdash;or Okikurumi, as
+he is sometimes called by them; and, moreover, they knew
+nothing of his doings, or of the reason of his being worshipped.
+The Ainu of the Tokachi knew nothing whatever of this personage.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu idea of soul is always associated with "breath" or
+"life;" and as for the resurrection of the body and the future
+life of the soul, they have never even dreamt of it. Metempsychosis
+is equally unknown to them.</p>
+
+<p>As my readers have seen, in the description of a burial the
+implements and weapons which belonged to a deceased person
+are buried with him. The articles, however, previous to being
+thrown into the grave, are smashed to pieces; for the idea is,
+not that the dead body should profit by these things in the
+other world, but that no other person should make use of what
+had been his property in this. The reasoning power of the
+Ainu does not carry him beyond what is purely material; his
+mind has never been trained to go beyond that limit, and he
+finds that he can live well within it. Like all animals, he is
+guided by his instinct, which tells him what is good and what
+is bad for him; but as to any attempt to find out <i>why</i> such
+things are good or bad for him, he is utterly at a loss, and has
+to give up the quest. Though not devoid of a rudimentary
+kind of shrewdness, the Ainu is dense and ignorant to the last
+degree, and just as he is reluctant to adopt new modes of
+living, so he is unable to accept new ideas or larger thoughts.
+The mere conception of a Superior Being, who is the Maker
+of all things and above all things, is far beyond the comprehension
+of any Ainu. Eating and drinking are what he principally
+lives for. He does not thirst for knowledge, nor strive
+after the Divine; and he has no creed of any kind and no
+formula of sacrifice or worship, which two conditions are essential
+to even the most elementary religion.</p>
+
+<p>What the Ainu do really possess in the way of supernaturalism
+is the ordinary savage's credulous superstition, which
+manifests itself in certain charms or fear of certain omens. However,
+after that degree they take the world as it comes. They
+have no idea of who made it, and they are not anxious to learn.
+The sun, the moon, bears, salmon, water, fire, mountains, trees,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>
+are all things for which an Ainu has a dumb kind of regard,
+not amounting to reverence, as he knows that he could not
+live without them. This has led some persons to define these
+objects as the principal divinities of the Ainu, and to call the
+people themselves polytheists. The word <i>Kamoi</i>, or <i>Kamui</i>,
+has been rendered as "god," gods "divinity." Now, what does
+the word <i>Kamoi</i>, or <i>Kamui</i>, really mean? Translated literally
+it means "old" or "ancient"; but amongst a hundred other
+meanings it also denotes "large," "beautiful," "strange," "it,"
+"the man," "he who," &amp;c. In fact, it is used to qualify anything,
+whether good or bad; and in some ways corresponds to
+our adjectives "wonderful," "awful," "grand "; but assuredly the
+Ainu do not by this word mean to designate the objects thus
+described as so many gods. Anything for which they entertain
+respect or fear is described as <i>Kamoi</i>, or <i>Kamui</i>, which thus is
+applied to the sun, the moon, the stars, mountains, rivers, old
+trees, bears, salmon, large stones, &amp;c., not with the intention
+of making them divinities, but simply to specify their power,
+greatness, or antiquity. The word is applied to every kind of
+thing, animate or inanimate, good or bad, respected or derided,
+dreaded or revered, admired or abhorred. It is sometimes a
+prefix, sometimes an affix, and is the most universal attribute
+the Ainu world or language contains. We are, therefore,
+forced to the conclusion, that either the Ainu are polytheists
+or pantheists to such an extent as occasionally to make everything
+and everybody a god; or else, that translators have given
+their own, and a greatly exaggerated, meaning to the word
+<i>Kamui</i>, and that these so-called gods are not gods at all. To
+me there is no alternative opinion on the matter. The Ainu
+have no gods in our sense.</p>
+
+<p>Basing conclusions on wrong premises, writers on the Ainu
+religion have been naturally led astray altogether. For instance,
+the composite word <i>Kotan-kara-kamui</i>,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> which a learned
+missionary has translated "Creator," only means "the man
+who made the village"&mdash;a description which hardly corresponds
+to the grandeur attributed to the words by its imaginative
+translator.</p>
+
+<p>Then again, <i>Kamui kotan</i>, which according to some means<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>
+"the home of God," in its real signification is "an ancient
+village; a beautiful place." When <i>Kamui</i> is applied to persons,
+it is generally a suffix; when to things, it is a prefix.</p>
+
+<p>But let us come to the <i>inao</i>, which by some have been
+called the "Ainu gods," by others "Divine symbols." These
+<i>inao</i> are willow-wands, with shavings depending from the
+upper end, sometimes from the middle, and occasionally from
+near the lower end as well.</p>
+
+<p>The larger wands are about four feet in length, and have
+either one or two bunches of shavings at the upper end only.
+They go by the name of <i>inao netuba</i>, or "big <i>inao</i>." Other
+smaller <i>inao</i>, like the <i>Chisei-kara-inao</i>,<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> are kept in the house,
+and stuck in the eastern corner of the hearth, and in the wall
+directly opposite the entrance door. Some of the <i>inao</i> are
+shaved upwards from the bottom, others downwards from the
+top; and one, a big <i>inao</i>, is often thrust through the small
+window facing the east. Sometimes they are placed about
+singly, especially inside the huts; but outside, close to the
+eastern wall, I have often seen eight or ten standing together
+in a row. When so taken collectively they are called <i>nuza</i>.
+On Volcano Bay, up the Saru River, and on the Lake Kutcharo,
+where it is the custom of the Ainu to make trophies of
+the skulls of bears and deer which have been killed in the
+hunt, one or two <i>inao</i> are placed at the foot of the trophy.
+Sometimes, but very rarely, a whole <i>nuza</i> is to be seen in
+front of a trophy; but in most cases the <i>nuza</i> I saw were
+near huts that had no trophy at all, and, as I say, only very
+seldom were they in front of the trophy itself, unless a bear
+feast was going on. I am therefore under the impression that
+these <i>nuza</i> are only put up when some festival takes place,
+and that they are not kept there permanently. I remember
+that at Piratori there were no <i>inao</i> and no <i>nuza</i> outside
+Benry's house, but on the day that the festival took place one
+was put up, and several <i>inao</i> were placed inside the hut, in the
+hearth and on the north wall. Likewise, a <i>nuza</i> was put up
+on the same day at the east end of the hut in which the feast
+was given, and the inside was also adorned with <i>inao</i> of various
+sizes and descriptions. Each <i>inao</i> is pointed at the lower end,
+so as to be easily stuck in the ground. The <i>inao</i> of all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>
+sizes and shapes impressed me as being mostly for ornament.
+Then some are held as charms against misfortune and
+disease; but they never impressed me as being offerings to
+the gods. <i>Inao</i> are placed near springs, so that the good
+water may not turn into pestilential, and occasionally <i>inao</i>
+of a peculiar shape are hung in the doorway of newly-built
+huts. They are made of a number of small willow sticks tied
+together, from which hang five or six bunches of shavings;
+they are hung horizontally, and not in a vertical position, like
+the other <i>inao</i>. They are very uncommon, and only used on
+certain specified occasions. For example, when a child is born
+an <i>inao</i>, in the shape of a doll, is made of a bunch of reeds
+folded double and tied with a string about an inch from the
+bend, which thus forms the head; it is then tied lower down
+to indicate the waist. By dividing the reeds into two equal
+portions they produce a pair of legs, and a stick is then passed
+through the reeds between the head and the waist to form the
+arms. When this doll is made it is placed near the infant, so
+that should any disease or misfortune, in the shape of a kind
+of evil spirit, be tempted to enter the child's body, it may be
+averted, and enter the doll instead. Should a person fall ill new
+<i>inao</i> are stuck in the hearth, as the Ainu share our own idea
+that evil spirits dwell mostly in fire; others are placed near the
+sick person. They are not meant as offerings to the gods for
+his or her quick recovery, but merely to bring good luck to the
+individual whose body they think has been taken possession
+of by "animals inside," or, in other words, evil spirits.</p>
+
+<p>Even at the present day in England and on the Continent
+horseshoes for luck are hung over entrance doors, and if a
+horseshoe be fastened on to a stable-door, the beasts within
+are supposed to be held free from accidents and illness.</p>
+
+<p>In Spain and Italy little red rags tied to a small wand, not
+dissimilar in shape to a small Ainu <i>inao</i>, are stuck in flower-pots
+near windows, over beds, doors, and up chimneys, to
+keep witches at bay, red being a powerful exorcist in the way
+of colours, and as good as the "running stream which witches
+dare not cross." Some hysterical women have declared that
+they have seen witches hiding in the smoke of the boiling
+<i>Pentola</i> (the earthenware pot in which the soup is boiled)&mdash;but
+that on seeing the red rags they vanished, and never<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>
+visited the house again. Italian and Spanish women and
+children almost invariably carry charms round their necks,
+that are to keep them safe from harm; and, furthermore,
+when a child falls ill, one or more red rags are fastened to its
+bed before a doctor is sent for. Then, again, people suffering
+from epileptic fits have often been supposed to be "possessed,"
+and beaten to death or burnt alive, so that the evil spirit which
+was in them should thus be destroyed. It must be borne in
+mind that not many centuries ago similar beliefs were prevalent
+even in free and enlightened England.</p>
+
+<p>If we compare these beliefs with those of the Ainu, we find
+that they differ very little either in form or substance. In
+place of the witches which our own ancestors, modern Italians,
+and Spaniards, and some benighted peasantry still to be found
+in the West of England, believed, and do still believe in, the
+Ainu have imaginary animals or evil spirits. The wands and
+red rags of our Latin neighbours are represented by their
+<i>inao</i>; and our lucky horseshoe is with them the horizontal
+<i>inao</i>. Charms are worn by the Ainu men, women, and
+children; and when going to war or to hunt the men carry
+a block of wood to which their knife or sword is attached, and
+on the right-hand side of which hangs a small <i>inao</i>.</p>
+
+<p>These blocks of wood are flattened, and are elliptical at
+both ends. Their length varies from four to fifteen inches,
+and sometimes ornaments&mdash;generally circles&mdash;are carved on
+them. A string is fastened on one side so as to sling them
+to the shoulder; but they are usually carried under the arm.
+They are supposed to protect the carrier from accidents, and
+also to bring him good fortune.</p>
+
+<p>We see, then, that similar ideas are entertained by utterly
+different peoples thousands of miles distant from one another;
+and that certain superstitious beliefs left on this side of the
+globe find their parallel among the hairy people on the other.
+Of course with them it is natural that their beliefs should
+count for more than with Europeans, as civilisation has not in
+any way enlarged or improved their minds; but it seems to
+me unfair that the same identical beliefs should go under the
+name of <i>superstitions</i> when applied to Europeans, and called
+the "Ainu religion" when practised by the hairy inhabitants
+of Northern Japan. Though to this I know it may be replied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>
+that, as all things spring from germs, so these ignorant superstitions
+of the Ainu may be in a manner called their religion,
+as the germ of a more developed system&mdash;the cotyledonous
+state of what might grow into a more advanced spirituality.
+Like the ancient Greeks and Romans, the Ainu wave their
+moustache-lifters, during their libations, towards the sun, the
+fire, and the person who has paid for the wine, before they
+address themselves to the large wooden bowls wherein lies
+their happiness; but this also is not a religious ceremony, and
+no religious feeling whatever is connected with it. It is a
+mere <i>toast</i>&mdash;part of their etiquette&mdash;which exactly corresponds
+to the German "<i>Prosit</i>," or to our English "Your good
+health." The Ainu of course have no special high-days, no
+Sundays, no religious services, no prayers, no priests, no sacrificial
+priests, no churches, and no bells; but they can "swear";
+and as the Neapolitans invoke their saints, so they occasionally
+call the sun, the moon, the fire, and everything else, all
+sorts of bad names if things do not go as they ought. This
+"swearing" has been defined as <i>Ainu praying</i> by one authority
+on the Ainu religion; moreover, the same authority calls the
+Ainu a "distinctly religious people," and an "exceedingly
+religious race!" To anyone who visits a country and regards
+all that he finds from one point of view only, it is not difficult
+to interpret words and things in accordance with the preconceived
+idea; but however high the principles sought to be
+established, I do not consider a man justified in attributing to
+definite facts an importance and significance to which they have
+no claim. I have no doubt that a native who had associated
+with or been in the employment of a Christian would make
+statements in accordance with his master's belief as it had been
+taught him; but it is incorrect to offer these "borrowed statements"
+as the religious beliefs of a whole nation.</p>
+
+<p>I shall not discuss this question at greater length; but for
+the sake of readers who are interested in the subject it may
+be well to make two or three more statements before closing this
+chapter. The Ainu do not know of a heaven and hell; but
+in one of the latest publications on the aborigines of Japan
+we are told that they do; and, moreover, that they are fully
+aware of the resurrection of the body in the other world!</p>
+
+<p>Even assuming, for the moment, that the Ainu are theists, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>
+polytheists, after what we have heard of their gods, this is a
+somewhat surprising statement. It will be remembered that
+anything good or bad, dreaded or repulsive, respected or not respected,
+is qualified by the Ainu as <i>Kamui</i>, and we shall attribute
+for a while the imaginary meaning of "God" to the word. Now,
+if everything and everybody, good or bad, is equally a god, I
+myself fail to see the necessity of a hell, as the chances are that
+all the gods would inhabit heaven. This alone serves to show
+how absurd the theory is; but I wish to give the exact translation
+of the words <i>Kando</i> and <i>Teine-pokna-moshiri</i>, which are
+said to be the two Ainu expressions for "heaven" and "hell."</p>
+
+<p><i>Kando</i> means "sky," not "heaven." <i>Teine-pokna-moshiri</i><a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>
+stands for the "wet earth under(ground)." As the Ainu are in
+the habit of burying their dead, I find it more rational to apply
+to the words in question the meaning of a "burial-place," a
+"cold place of rest" rather than that of Hades or Gehenna.</p>
+
+<p>"They" (the Ainu), says a learned missionary, "seem to conceive
+of men and women as living in large communities in the
+other world in the same way and under the same conditions
+as they do in this, excepting that they can know no death."
+In other words, resurrection of the body and eternal life.</p>
+
+<p>Strange to say, the writer of the same lines asserted in
+the "Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan,"<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> that
+"The Ainu <i>know nothing</i> of a resurrection of the body."</p>
+
+<p>It must not be argued that because they have no religion
+the Ainu are bad people. They are far from it. They are
+decidedly not moral, for nothing is immoral among them.
+The Ainu must be considered more as animals than as human
+beings. When we speak of a dog, we do not ask whether it is a
+moral dog, but only if it is a good dog. The same can be said
+of the Ainu. We cannot compare them to ourselves, nor judge
+them by our own standard of morality. Taken by themselves
+they are gentle, kind, brave, and above everything they are
+simple. Their language, manners, customs, arts, habits, as we
+have seen, are the very simplest and rudest possible. Thus, it
+is absurd to suppose that such simple brains could entertain
+high religious ideas. If they had brains enough to compass
+high religious beliefs they would long ago have used those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>
+brains in bettering their miserable condition and filthy mode of
+living. They would have striven to make the beginnings of a
+history and a literature, or at least to have devised or adopted
+some mode of writing with which they could preserve these
+high ideas, and pass them on from generation to generation.
+Even their language is so poor in words as to hardly express
+their everyday wants. The Ainu are low in the scale of
+humanity. They have always been low; they have not sunk,
+for they have never risen. They have never done any harm
+in this world, and they will never do any good.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu are without laws, which, paradoxical as it sounds,
+to a great extent makes them good. People are never so good
+as when no harm can be done. There are indeed few crimes
+among them; no voluntary infanticides; very very rarely
+murders; no suicides; little theft, and as little treachery among
+people of the same tribe. Though usually retiring and reserved,
+they are hospitable on special occasions, and generous
+with what little they possess. The young show an instinctive
+reverence for the aged, without considering it a virtue or a duty.
+Cowardice is despised by the Ainu, but courage, endurance of
+pain, and hardship, drunkenness, and similar qualities, are looked
+on as the chief virtues in men. Punishments are seldom inflicted
+by Ainu on any of their tribesmen, and the crime must indeed
+be great to raise the whole community against the criminal. If
+by rare chance some great evil has been done, the chief of the
+village and all the men assemble, and decide on the punishment
+to be inflicted. Flogging is the general punishment for
+the lesser crimes, which, according to Ainu ideas, are theft and
+assault. The murder of a tribesman is sometimes punished
+by cutting the tendons of the hands and feet of the murderer,
+thus disabling him from hunting or fishing. If, however, the
+man murdered was of another tribe, or a Japanese, this Draconian
+kind of justice is not administered. Quarrels among
+tribesmen are settled by private retribution, and no one interferes
+either one way or the other. These quarrels, however,
+very seldom occur, as the Ainu are naturally a peaceful people.
+Imprisonment does not exist, for the simple reason that the
+Ainu have no prisons. They do not know what a prison is;
+neither is capital punishment practised by them. According
+to their own ideas they are not cruel to children, for we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>
+seldom see them wilfully ill-treating them; but according to
+civilised notions Ainu women make shockingly bad mothers.
+They love, but they do not look after, nor practically take
+care of, their little ones after these are about a year and a
+half old; and as to washing them, combing their hair, educating
+them, or trying to cure them of the thousand and one
+wretched skin diseases, which come chiefly by their own
+neglect, an Ainu mother puts her hand to these things
+no more than the men put theirs to the building of a temple
+or the creation of a literature. This neglect is not with
+them, as it would be with us, an intolerable crime, but is
+the natural result of their animal instinct as contradistinguished
+from rational development. For if a baby is not old enough
+at one and a half years of age to take care of himself, he is of
+no good as an Ainu. It is needless to add that, in these circumstances,
+most of them are of no good, and that the percentage
+of infantile deaths is appalling to a civilised mind.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 461px;">
+<img src="images/illus-292.png" width="461" height="600" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">1, 7, INAO-NETUBA. 2, 3, 4, 5, CHISEI-KARA-INAO.
+6, A PESTLE OR POUNDER.</span></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIX.<br />
+<span class="small">Marital Relations, and Causes that Limit Population.</span></h2>
+
+<p>The laws of marriage in the Ainu country are not very
+stringent; in fact, there are no laws. If a young man takes
+a fancy to a pretty hairy maid, and the maid reciprocates his
+affections, all they have to do is to go and live together, and
+there is no Mrs. Grundy to be scandalised at the want of
+closer forms and ceremonies. There is no function to celebrate
+the occasion; there are no wedding presents, no bridesmaids,
+no officiating clergyman, and no old slipper flung after the
+happy pair as soon as the knot is tied. The bridegroom
+either goes to live in his bride's hut, or, if he does not care for
+his mother-in-law, he will bring his lady-love to his own father's
+hut. Usually, however, the two, especially if their respective
+families are large, prefer to build a hut of their own. The
+honeymoon is spent in house-building, and while the bride
+carries the loads of timber and long reeds, the bridegroom
+accomplishes the more difficult task of putting them together
+as well as he can for future shelter. All goes well with the
+happy couple until the roof has to be lifted up bodily and
+perched on the forked poles, during which process "family
+rows" generally begin. But they do not last long, and when
+the house is finished, though not decorated, home peace reigns
+within, and the bridegroom, as we have already seen, proceeds
+to ornament his chief treasure&mdash;his wife&mdash;with tattoos on her
+arms. This idyllic state of things is not specially permanent,
+for soon after this first marriage the Ainu feels that he would
+like another wife, and, without thinking twice about it, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>
+marries again. Though savage and barbarian, the Ainu is
+shrewd enough not to take his second wife to live with his
+first, for he knows what the result would be, human nature
+being the same in Yezo as it is in London, and jealousy as
+strong among the tattooed women of the hairy people as
+among the fair-skinned daughters of the West. All women
+are bad enough when out of temper, but the Ainu women are
+pre-eminent in this respect. Our shock-haired bigamist calls
+his first wife <i>poro-machi</i>&mdash;"great wife," and he calls the other
+<i>pon-machi</i>&mdash;"small wife;" and as long as the two females
+do not live under the same roof they are all happy with
+the arrangement. If, indeed, he chooses to have more than
+these two wives he thinks small blame to himself. There
+is no bar of any kind in his code to his having a third "half;"
+but this seldom happens now, for the women are not in such
+over abundance in the Ainu country as to allow each man to
+indulge in a "triple alliance." The Ainu are therefore polygamists
+when they can find the third woman, and almost
+always bigamists when this is possible. The wife does not
+take her husband's name, for no Ainu has a family surname;
+and each man or woman is called after some peculiarity which
+he or she possesses, or after some event or accident which has
+befallen them. For instance, <i>Una-charo</i>, a man's name, means
+"Sprinkled-ashes," and <i>Yei-Ainu</i>, "Dangerous Ainu," &amp;c.;
+and <i>Korunke</i>, a woman's name, means "Ice-eater;" <i>Reoback</i>,
+"Who burst three times," and so on, each person having a
+different name, which is nothing more than a nick-name.
+When the girl gets married she does not drop this nick-name,
+neither, as has been said, does she take her husband's name,
+though sometimes she is called So-and-So's wife. Supposing
+that Miss Burst-three-times were to marry Mr. Sprinkled-ashes,
+she would be Mr. Sprinkled-ashes' wife, and would still
+be called by her maiden name, Burst-three-times.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to quote exact statistics of the Ainu population,
+and whether the women outnumber the men, but from
+my own observation I should think that females are in excess
+of the males in some districts, and about even in others.</p>
+
+<p>The man, naturally, is the lord and master of the household,
+and the wife is like a kind of inferior being or a slave, whose
+duty it is to obey her male companion. She has to yield in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>
+everything, whether she is right or wrong; she is occasionally
+beaten; she never takes active part in any of her husband's
+Bacchanalian revels; but though she leads a sad kind of life,
+a life of hard work and no pleasure, she does not seem to be
+any the worse for it. There are wives, of course, who, as in
+other countries, give a "pretty rough time" to their husbands;
+but in the Ainu country these are certainly the exception.
+As there is no ceremony of marriage, there is naturally no
+"divorce;" but if an Ainu gets sick of his wife, all he has
+to do is to leave her and go elsewhere, or else to banish her
+from his hut. This, however, very seldom happens, for that
+rare creature the henpecked Ainu husband is willing to put
+up with a lot; and though brave enough to encounter single-handed
+a bear, the hairy man is by no means valiant enough
+to face his wife's temper; while, for all that she is practically
+a slave, and personally an inferior, is sometimes in Ainuland,
+as everywhere else, the strongest factor in the domestic sum.</p>
+
+<p>As long as the wife does her duty well as a "beast of burden,"
+little more is required from her. Her morals, as far as I could
+make out, are not well looked after. Adultery is not considered
+a crime. I do not mean by this that adultery is practised
+on principle, for it is not so: there is no reason whatever
+why it should be, for each man has his own wife or wives; but
+if adultery were practised by any members of a community,
+what we consider a dreadful crime would be regarded as a
+mere "joke" among the hairy people. The husband, like any
+other animal, dumb or not, would naturally resent the intrusion,
+but the community would in no way interfere, or punish the
+offender. A girl is considered fit to be married when she is
+about sixteen years of age; a man about twenty, or as soon
+as the body is fully developed.</p>
+
+<p>People as a rule marry in the same village. It is but
+seldom that a girl marries a man or a man a girl of a
+different village. Villages, as we have seen, are generally
+composed of only a few houses, and the result of this strict
+endogamy is, that marriages take place among very near
+relations. In very small villages of only one or two houses,
+the father has been known to marry his own daughter, the
+uncle his own niece, &amp;c. But enough of this. The result of
+this dreadful state of affairs is, that the race is rapidly dying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>
+out, destroyed by consumption, lunacy, and poverty of blood.
+All the members of one village are necessarily related to one
+another; and, as I have demonstrated in a previous chapter,
+this is the main cause why certain diseases are common to one
+community and utterly unknown to others, and certain hereditary
+talents or tendencies are frequent in one village and
+imperceptible in the next.</p>
+
+<p>The Ainu seem to have no Platonic love; their love is
+purely sexual. It is not to be wondered at, in a country where
+marital relations are so peculiar, that very little love is felt for
+children beyond a certain age. The mother suckles her own
+child usually for seven or eight months. She can bear children
+till she is about thirty-five, though some who seem to be much
+older are still fruitful. It was difficult to ascertain this fact
+for no Ainu knows his own age. As far as I could learn
+fertility is neither hindered nor checked in any way&mdash;either by
+adopting a peculiar diet or by other practices. On the other
+hand, many a woman is sterile, and many are also affected
+with the most horrible of all diseases. I am inclined to think,
+however, that this special malady was imported to Yezo with
+Japanese civilisation, for it is in the more civilised parts of the
+Ainu country that it is most frequent.</p>
+
+<p>There is probably no country in the world where there is so
+much loss of infant life due to want, accidents, and diseases,
+as with the Ainu. Abortion is common, owing to the severe
+exertion of the mother during pregnancy; and many a child
+dies not many days after birth for the same reason, and consequent
+disappearance of milk in the mother's breasts. The
+greater mortality of children, however, is between the age of
+six and ten. Only a small percentage of these poor creatures
+live to take part in the game of life; while many succumb to
+ill-treatment and the most horrible skin eruptions. Thus we
+have a good explanation of the frightful rapidity with which
+the Ainu race is fast disappearing. Naturally, those few who
+survive grow strong and healthy; but their great fondness for
+alcoholic drinks, which they can now so easily procure from
+the Japanese, destroys even them.</p>
+
+<p>One is generally struck in Ainuland by the number of old
+men and children, and by the almost entire lack of young
+fellows between the age of fifteen and thirty. This is due<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span>
+mainly to the great increase of mortality in children during
+the last two generations. The sadness which seems to oppress
+the Ainu, and which we see depicted on the face of each
+individual, is nothing but the outcome of this degeneration of
+the race. As a race the Ainu will soon be extinct. I dare
+say that in fifty years from now&mdash;probably not so long&mdash;not
+one of the hairy savages, who were once the masters of Sakhalin,
+Yezo, the Kuriles, Kamschatka, and the whole of the
+southern Japanese Empire, will be left. Not one of these
+strange people&mdash;soft, good, and gentle, but savage, brave, and
+disreputable&mdash;will live to see their country civilised; and in the
+life which they have led of filth and vice they will die in front
+of that greater scourge, civilisation, leaving behind no traces
+of themselves, of their past, of their history, nor of their
+present&mdash;nothing but a faint recollection, a tradition, that in
+Yezo and the Kuriles died the last remains of those curious
+people, the Hairy Ainu.</p>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>APPENDIX.</h2>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>I.&mdash;MEASUREMENTS OF THE AINU BODY, AND
+DESCRIPTIVE CHARACTERS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The following measurements were taken on five men and five
+women of the pure Ainu of Frishikobets (Upper Tokachi River).
+They were carefully chosen among the best types.</p>
+
+<p>The names of the men were:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. Unacharo: <i>Una</i>, ashes; <i>charo</i>, sprinkled = "Sprinkled-ashes."</p>
+
+<p>2. Aba pukuro: <i>Aba</i>, a relation; <i>pu</i>, storehouse; <i>kuro</i>, a man
+= "Related to the man of the storehouse."</p>
+
+<p>3. Pe chantwe; <i>Pe</i>, undrinkable water; <i>chan</i>, to run away; <i>we</i>,
+to tell = "Who ran to tell of the undrinkable water."</p>
+
+<p>4. Kosankeyan: <i>Ko san</i>, to go down; <i>ke</i>, eating; <i>yan</i>, cold.</p>
+
+<p>5. Yei Ainu: <i>Yei</i>, dangerous; <i>Ainu</i>, Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>The following were the names of the women:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. Usattean: <i>Usat</i>, cinders; <i>tean</i>, long.</p>
+
+<p>2. Korunke: <i>Korun</i>, ice; <i>ke</i>, to eat = "Ice-eater."</p>
+
+<p>3. Sho kem: <i>Sho</i>, so; <i>kem</i>, blood = "Covered with blood."</p>
+
+<p>4. Uina mon: <i>Uina or Una</i>, ashes; <i>mon</i>, tranquil.</p>
+
+<p>5. Reoback: <i>Re</i>, three; <i>oback</i>, to burst = "Who burst three
+times."</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Height</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>61</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>58¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>65</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>59⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>60½</td><td>} Med. 62-19/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>59½</td><td>} Med. 58⅜</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>64⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>54⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>61</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>59⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></p>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Length from Tip to Tip of Fingers with Arms Outstretched.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>64⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>59⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>65</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>62½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>63½</td><td>} Med. 65⅜.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>62½</td><td>} Med. 61-13/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>69½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>60</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>64¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>62½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is interesting to notice the great difference between the height
+and this latter measurement, showing the great length of the arms in
+the Ainu race.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<p class="smcap center"><b>The Humerus.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>9</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>8½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>9⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>8¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>8½</td><td>} Med. 9-9/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>10⅜</td><td>} Med. 9-19/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>9</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>9¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>10</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>10</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>The Ulna.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>9¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>9¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>10¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>9⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>9⅛</td><td>} Med. 9-37/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>8⅞</td><td>} Med. 9¼.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>11</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>9⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>9½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>9⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>The Hand.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>7⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>6⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>7½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>7</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>7¼</td><td>} Med. 7⅖.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>6⅞</td><td>} Med. 6-9/10.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>7⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>6¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>7</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>7</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">The Spine</span> (dorsal and lumbar vertebræ to the sacrum).</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>25½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>27</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>28⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>26¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>27½</td><td>} Med. 27⅘.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>28¼</td><td>} Med. 27⅝.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>29⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>27</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>27¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>29⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">The Leg</span> (Femur, Tibia and Foot.)</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>34⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>32⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>36¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>35½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>32½</td><td>} Med. 35-1/20.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>34</td><td>} Med. 33-13/20.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>37⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>30½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>34¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>35⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Femur.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>17½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>18⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>18⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>19⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>17⅛</td><td>} Med. 18⅝.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>18½</td><td>} Med. 17-33/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>20</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>14</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>20⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>18⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Tibia.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>14</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>14¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>14⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>13</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>12⅝</td><td>} Med. 13½.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>13½</td><td>} Med. 13⅘.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>14⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>14</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>11⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>14¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+<p class="center">(The Tibia is very flattened with the Ainu.)</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Tarsus</span> (from ground to Ankle).</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>2¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>2</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>2⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>3</td><td>} Med. 3.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>2</td><td>} Med. 2⅜.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>3¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>2½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>2¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Chest</span> (from Arm-pit to Arm-pit).</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>13½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>12⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>13⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>14¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>13½</td><td>} Med. 13-19/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>14¼</td><td>} Med. 13-7/20.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>13</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>12¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>13¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>13⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Around Chest.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>36½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>33⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>35⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>34½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>37½</td><td>} Med. 37-3/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>35½</td><td>} Med. 34⅕.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>37⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>32⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>38⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>34¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Around Waist.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>33</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>28⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>37</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>31½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>34</td><td>} Med. 34-7/10.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>34⅞</td><td>} Med. 31-7/20.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>36</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>31</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>33½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>(37⅝ but was conceived.)</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Maximum Breadth of  Shoulders.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>19¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>15½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>16</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>13⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>18</td><td>} Med. 17½.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>13⅞</td><td>} Med. 14⅖.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>18</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>13⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>16¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>15⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>The Foot.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>9¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>8⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>9⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>9⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>9½</td><td>} Med. 9-23/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>9⅛</td><td>} Med. 8⅘.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>10¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>8¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>9¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>8⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">The Head</span> (around the Head, just above the Ears).</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>23½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>23⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>23½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>22⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>24⅜</td><td>} Med. 23¾.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>23⅝</td><td>} Med. 22-29/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>22⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>22</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>23⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>23</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Length of Face.</span>(From Hair to Chin.)</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>7½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>7¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>9</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>6¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>7½</td><td>} Med. 7-31/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>6¾</td><td>} Med. 6⅞.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>6⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>7</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>8</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>6⅝</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Width of Face from Ear to Ear</span> (over Forehead and Cheek Bones).</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>11⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>11⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>12½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>11</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>12</td><td>} Med. 11-19/20.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>11¾</td><td>} Med. 11-21/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>12</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>11⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>12⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>11⅛</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Height of Forehead.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>2¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>2¼</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>2⅞</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>1¾</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>2⅜</td><td>} Med. 2-2/5.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>2⅛</td><td>} Med. 2.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>2</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>2</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>2¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>1⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Width of Forehead.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>5</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>6</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>5¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>5½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>5½</td><td>} Med. 5⅕.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>5</td><td>} Med. 5⅜.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>5¾</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>4⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>6</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>5½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></p>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Length of Ears.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>2⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>3¼</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>2⅜</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>2¾</td><td>} Med. 2-23/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>2¾</td><td>} Med. 2-23/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>2½</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>2⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>2⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>2½</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="smcap center"><b>Length of Fingers.</b></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr align="center"><td colspan="3">MEN.<br />inches.</td><td></td><td colspan="3">WOMEN.<br />inches.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>1.</td><td>3⅛</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>1.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>2.</td><td>3⅜</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>2.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>3.</td><td>3</td><td>} Med. 3-9/40.</td><td></td><td>3.</td><td>3</td><td>} Med. 2-39/40.</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>4.</td><td>3⅝</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>4.</td><td>2⅞</td><td>}</td></tr>
+<tr align="left"><td>5.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td><td></td><td>5.</td><td>3</td><td>}</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<blockquote><p>(<i>a</i>) Colour of skin (in parts not exposed to air)&mdash;light reddish
+slightly tending towards brown, but almost as light as
+with Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>b</i>) Colour of hair&mdash;black, dark-brown, reddish-black, red.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>c</i>) Colour of eyes&mdash;light-brown tending towards dark-grey.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>d</i>) Character of hair&mdash;wavy.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>e</i>) Amount of hair&mdash;abundant on face and all over the body
+in males more so than in females.</p></blockquote>
+
+
+<p class="smcap center">Measurements of Shikotan Ainu.</p>
+
+<p>The skin and eyes are the same colour as with the Yezo Ainu.
+The hair is black, dark-red, or dark-brown. Black is the prevalent
+colour. Children often have fair hair, which grows darker as they
+grow older. The hair is abundant over body and face, and it is
+wavy.</p>
+
+<p>The face possesses the identical characteristics of the Yezo Ainu.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>
+Medium height: 61 inches to 62¾ inches.<br />
+Round waist: 32⅞ inches.<br />
+Chest: Empty, 35⅞ inches; inflated, 37½ inches.<br />
+Humerus: 11⅞ inches.<br />
+Ulna: 8-11/16 inches.<br />
+Hand: 6¾ inches.<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>Foot: 9½ inches.<br />
+Spinal vertebræ: 24 inches.<br />
+Scapula (from shoulder to shoulder): 17 inches.<br />
+Between shoulder-blades: 5⅞ inches.<br />
+Femur: short.<br />
+Tibia: very long.<br />
+(Natives objected to have their legs measured.)<br />
+The Tibia is much rounder than with the Yezo Ainu.<br />
+Length of face: 7½ inches.<br />
+Width of face from ear to ear: 11⅛ inches.<br />
+Round head above ears: 21⅝ inches.<br />
+Ears: small.<br />
+Forehead: 2⅜ inches high; <span class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Changed from the original '2/8'.">5¼</span> inches wide.<br />
+</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>With arms outstretched and from tip to tip of fingers the Shikotan
+Ainu measure generally the length of one hand (about 6¾ inches)
+more than their own height. Consumption, <i>kaki</i>, and syphilis are
+common complaints among them.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2>II.&mdash;GLOSSARY OF AINU WORDS, MANY OF WHICH
+ARE FOUND IN GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES IN YEZO
+AND THE KURILE ISLANDS.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></h2>
+
+<ul class="index">
+<li class="ifrst">A.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">A = (a suffix).</li>
+<li class="indx">Apa = an open space, a doorway.</li>
+<li class="indx">Aikap = impossible, impassable.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ambe = that is.</li>
+<li class="indx">An = to be.</li>
+<li class="indx">Aota = near.</li>
+<li class="indx">Apta = rain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Apun = gently.</li>
+<li class="indx">At = a tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Atsu = barren, naked.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">B.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bets, or pets, pet = river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Be, or pe = pestilential water.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>But, or put = mouth of a river.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">C.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cha = old.</li>
+<li class="indx">Cha cha = very old.</li>
+<li class="indx">Chip = fish.</li>
+<li class="indx">Chippe = a canoe, a boat.</li>
+<li class="indx">Chup = the sun.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">E.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Erimu = a rat.</li>
+<li class="indx">Etoko = formerly, in front of.</li>
+<li class="indx">Etu = a cape.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">F.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fu = bare.</li>
+<li class="indx">Fun = green.</li>
+<li class="indx">Fure = red (also pronounced Hure).</li>
+<li class="indx">Frishiko = old.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">H.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Haru = grass.</li>
+<li class="indx">Hattara = a deep pool in a watercourse.</li>
+<li class="indx">Hure = a bad smell.</li>
+<li class="indx">Hure = red.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">I.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">I = a suffix for "a place."</li>
+<li class="indx">Ibe = to feed.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ichan = a canal made by salmon in river-beds to lay their, spawn.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ikam = against.</li>
+<li class="indx">Iwa = stone, a rock.</li>
+<li class="indx">Itapk = word, story.</li>
+<li class="indx">Iwashi (Japanese) = sardine.</li>
+<li class="indx">Iwao = sulphur.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">K.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kama = cliffs, rocks, to go over.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kamui = great, wonderful, ancient.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kap = bark of a tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kara = to take, to make.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kashi = towards.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kerimba = a berry.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kene = an alder tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kem = blood.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kenashi = a meadow.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>Keshup = head.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kesh = towards the west.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ki = rushes.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kim = mountain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kinna = mat.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kinna = reeds.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kinna = grass.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kiri = to know.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kitai = mountain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Koi = the waves of the sea.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kochi = level.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kombo = sea-weed.</li>
+<li class="indx">Koro = to possess, to have.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kotan = a village, a place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kotcha = in front of.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ku = a bow.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kuano = straight.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kume = black, very dark.</li>
+<li class="indx">Kuru, or guru = a person.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">M.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ma = to swim, deep.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mak = behind.</li>
+<li class="indx">Makta = away.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mata = winter.</li>
+<li class="indx">Meak = female.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mean = cold.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mo = tranquil.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mon = small, tranquil.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mom = to flow like a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moire = slow.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moi = a bay, a sheltered bend in a river where the water is quiet.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moshiri, or mushir = island, country, place, land.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moshiri Kes = the east.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moshitte-chu-pok = north.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moshiri pok = west.</li>
+<li class="indx">Moshitte-chu-pka = south.</li>
+<li class="indx">Mun = grass.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">N.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Na = again.</li>
+<li class="indx">Na = bigger, or smaller (also sign of comparative).</li>
+<li class="indx">Nai, or Nae = a rivulet, a small stream.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>Nai yau = a tributary stream.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nak = where.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nam = cold, as water, as ice.</li>
+<li class="indx">Naoak = yet more shallow.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ne = together, where, and, also, which, &amp;c.</li>
+<li class="indx">Neatka = also, again.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nen = who.</li>
+<li class="indx">Neto = where.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ni = wood, or tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nikam = leaves of a tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nibeshi = name of a tree (probably <i>Tilia</i>).</li>
+<li class="indx">Nikap = bark of a tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nipek = a fire, a flame.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nisei = valley.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nisusu = scenery, panorama, view.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nitat = swampy ground, a swamp, a lagoon.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nitai = a forest.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nitt = a thorn.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nitek = branches of trees.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nituman = trunk of a tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nobori = mountain.</li>
+<li class="indx">No = (meaningless ending of words).</li>
+<li class="indx">Noshike = middle.</li>
+<li class="indx">Noshihike = half.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nupka = a forest.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nup = a treeless plain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nup = a deep silent pool in a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nuburi = mountain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Nupuru = turbid (as water).</li>
+<li class="indx">Nupuri = a mountain (volcano).</li>
+<li class="indx">Nutap = the projecting part of a river bend.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">O.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">O = a meaningless prefix, sometimes used as an adjective.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oara = one.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oboso = to pass through (as water).</li>
+<li class="indx">Oak = shallow&mdash;not deep.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oha = empty.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ohoho = deep.</li>
+<li class="indx">Okai = at a place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Okai = a male.</li>
+<li class="indx">Okari = around.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>Oakau = to hide.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oakan = a male.</li>
+<li class="indx">Omanne = to go.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oma = to be inside.</li>
+<li class="indx">Onne = large, old, great.</li>
+<li class="indx">Opattek = a volcanic eruption.</li>
+<li class="indx">Opeka = straight.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oro = to be in.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oropak = as far as.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oshima = to go in.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oshimak = behind.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ota = sand.</li>
+<li class="indx">Otaru = sandy.</li>
+<li class="indx">Opke = a spear.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ot = in, inside, into.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oya = another.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oushike = a place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oyapk = away, abroad.</li>
+<li class="indx">Oyapk moshiri = away, country (foreign country).</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">P.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pa = smoke.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pa = east-end of villages.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pai = bushes.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pakne = as far as.</li>
+<li class="indx">Panke = lower.</li>
+<li class="indx">Paru = the mouth.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pase = heavy.</li>
+<li class="indx">Patek = only.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pe = pestilential water, bad water, not good to drink.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pei = something.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pene = inland.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet, pets, bets = river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet bena = source of a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet samo = bank of a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Petsamata = by the side of a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet put = the mouth of a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet-urara = a stream.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet yao = an affluent.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pet-ka-shu = to wade a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Penke = upper.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pinni = ash-tree.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>Pinne = male.</li>
+<li class="indx">Piuta = sand (coarse).</li>
+<li class="indx">Pipa = a spring of fresh water.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pira = a bank, a cliff.</li>
+<li class="indx">Piri = a wound.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pirika = pretty, good, well, all-right.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pishita = sea-beach.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pita = to untie, to undo.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pitara = a dry place in a river-bed.</li>
+<li class="indx">Po = a small thing.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pon = small.</li>
+<li class="indx">Poi-shuma = pebbles, stones.</li>
+<li class="indx">Poka = only.</li>
+<li class="indx">Popke = hot, steaming (also Topke).</li>
+<li class="indx">Poro = large.</li>
+<li class="indx">Pui = a hole.</li>
+<li class="indx">Puri = natural, very, usual.</li>
+<li class="indx">Put, Putu (corrupted into Buto by the Japanese) = the mouth of a river.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">R.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rai = death.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rakka = seal.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rahuru = a fog.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ram = low.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ran = to descend (a mountain).</li>
+<li class="indx">Rangu = a kind of tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rarumani = a kind of tree (<i>Taxus cuspidata</i>).</li>
+<li class="indx">Re = three.</li>
+<li class="indx">Repun = to go, in the sea, surrounded by water.</li>
+<li class="indx">Repun moshiri = an island.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rera = wind.</li>
+<li class="indx">Retara = white.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ri = high.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rikkin = to ascend.</li>
+<li class="indx">Riri = a wave.</li>
+<li class="indx">Riri-shiye-tuye = ebb tide.</li>
+<li class="indx">Riri-ya = flow tide.</li>
+<li class="indx">Roru = at the head.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ru = a road, a track, a pathway</li>
+<li class="indx">Rui = to burn.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rukoppe = where roads cross.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rui = great, big.</li>
+<li class="indx">Rubeshipe = a ravine.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>Rupne = large.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">S.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sapk = summer.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sak = without.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sama = by the side of.</li>
+<li class="indx">San = to descend.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sara, Saru = a grassy plain.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sat = dry.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sattek = shallow water.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sesek = hot.</li>
+<li class="indx">Seta = dog.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shep = broad.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shi = high.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shibe = autumn salmon.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shiki = a kind of tall grass.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shiko = a view, a sight.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shimon = on the right-hand side.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shimoye = to shake, to move.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shenai = a large river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shirari = a cliff, mass of loose texture.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shirau = a horse-fly.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shiretu = a cape.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shiri = land.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shiruturu = a small island in a river.</li>
+<li class="indx">Sho = so.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shoi = a hole.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shum = foam.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shuma = a stone.</li>
+<li class="indx">So = a waterfall.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shupun = a kind of fish.</li>
+<li class="indx">Shusu = a willow tree.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">T.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ta = to, towards, to take, to cut.</li>
+<li class="indx">Taanni = on this side.</li>
+<li class="indx">Taksep = a rock.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tapne = short.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tanne = long.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tap kop = an isolated hill.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tat = Birch-tree (<i>Betula</i>).</li>
+<li class="indx">To, or ko = a lake, a swamp.</li>
+<li class="indx">Toambe = that.</li>
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>Toi = earth.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tokap = day, light.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tomari = a harbour, a sheltered place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Top = scrub bamboo.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tope = <i>Acer</i>&mdash;a kind of tree.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tukara, also Tokari = sea-otter.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tunni = <i>Quercus dentata</i>.</li>
+<li class="indx">Tureshi = to ascend.</li>
+<li class="indx">Turep = a plant, the roots of which are eaten by the Ainu.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">U.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">U = a suffix to indicate a place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Uhui, also Ouye = a fire.</li>
+<li class="indx">Uhui nobori = a volcano.</li>
+<li class="indx">Un = a particle denoting that something is to be found at a place.</li>
+<li class="indx">Upas = snow.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ush = a bay.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ush = a gulf.</li>
+<li class="indx">Ush = a locative particle.</li>
+<li class="indx">Uta = a master.</li>
+<li class="indx">Utka = the rapids of a river.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">W.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wa = from.</li>
+<li class="indx">Wakka = water.</li>
+<li class="indx">Wen = bad.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Y.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ya = land.</li>
+<li class="indx">Yai = danger.</li>
+<li class="indx">Yaikap = awkward.</li>
+<li class="indx">Yam = cold, a chestnut.</li>
+<li class="indx">Yuk = a deer.</li>
+<li class="indx">Yutta = greatest.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>INDEX.</h2>
+
+
+<ul class="index">
+<li class="ifrst">A.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abashiri, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>-<a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abashiri Lagoon, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abnormalities, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abortion, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abstinence from food and drink, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Abus, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Adultery, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Adzes (stone), <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Affection, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Affirmation, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Age of the Ainu, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Agriculture, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ahunkanitte, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Aikap, Cape, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ainu bits, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">capacity for drink, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">conclusion, an, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">diet, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">dirt, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">gentleness, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">good-nature, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">implements, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">legends, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">names on Nippon, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">names, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Paganini, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">pronunciation, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">village, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">way of approaching huts, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Airup, Cape, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Akangawa, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Akkeshi, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>-<a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Akkeshi bay, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">lagoon, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Albinism, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Aleutian Islands, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Aleuts, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Alexandrovitch, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Amida, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ancestral attachment, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Anchors, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Anchorages, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Angotsuro, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Apa-otki (door-mat), <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Aputa, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Archæology, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Architecture, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arms, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arrows, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arrow-heads (flint), <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Art, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>-<a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Artist, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arundinaria, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Asiatic Society of Japan, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Assap River, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Attacked by the Ainu, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>-<a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Attitudes, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">At-pets, River, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Atzis-robe, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Atzosa Volcano, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Atzta, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>Australia, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Australian blacks, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Authority of chiefs, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Awomori, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">B.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Backbone of Yezo, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bakkai, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Baldness, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bamboo arrow-points, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Barabuta, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Baratte, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Barter, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Basha, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Batchelor, Rev. I., <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bathing, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Battles, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Beaches, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bears, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bear (descent from the), <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">hunting, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(ill-usage of), <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">skins, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">skull trophy, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Beliefs compared, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bending of watercourses, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Benke, Cape, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Benry, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>-<a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Benten Island, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bentenjima (Nemuro), <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bento, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Beppo, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Betoya, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bettobu, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Bay, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Birvase, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bitskai, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bone arrow-point, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">carvings, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">setting, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bonzes, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bowls, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bows and arrows, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Buddhists, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Buddhist shrine, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Burial, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">C.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cancer, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cannibalism, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Canoes, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>-<a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Carrying children, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">weights and burdens, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Castes, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Castle, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Caucasian races, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chanting, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Charcoal in pits, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Charms, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chevrons, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Child-bearing, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Children of Kurile Islands, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chimney, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chiefs at a festival, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chief's crown, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">tomb, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chieftainship, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chietomamai, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">China, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chinese, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">idea, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">sea, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chisei-kara-inao, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cholera, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Choruses, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Christians, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Christian minister, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">virtues, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chukbets, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chuppets, River, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Chuskin Island, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cisango, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Civilisation, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Clothes, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">and boots, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Coal, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">field, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">mines, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">trains, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">trucks, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Coins, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span>Colonial militia, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Colonisation scheme, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Colonists, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Comparisons, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Compass, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Concert, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Conservatism, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Consul, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Consumption, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Convicts (Japanese), <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>-<a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Copper, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Coptic Church, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Corea, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Creator, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Criminals, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Crosses, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Crows, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">attacking a pony, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(familiarity of), <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(multitude of), <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cruelty to children, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Currents, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Cutaneous diseases, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">D.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Daikuku Island, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Daikuku and Kodaikuku Islands, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Daimio, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dancing, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Darwin's theory of evolution, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Deer-skin coat, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Degeneration of the race, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Deluge, the, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Descriptive characters of Yezo Ainu (Appendix), <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of Shikotan Ainu (Appendix), <a href="#Page_303">303</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Designs, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dew, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dirt, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Divinities, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Divorce, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dogs (wild), <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Drainage area of Ishikari River, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dress of Kurilsky Ainu, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Drift-ice, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">logs, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">sand, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Drinking vessels, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Drunkenness, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dug-outs, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dwarfs, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Dying out of the race, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">E.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Eagles, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ear-rings, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ears, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Eclipses, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Education, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Egyptian cross, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Election of chief, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Elephantiasis, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Embroideries, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Emperor's palace, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Enamelling, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Endogamy, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Entogroul, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Eramachi, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Erimo Cape, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>-<a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Esan Volcano, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Esashi, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Esquimaux, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ethnologists, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Etiquette, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Etorofu, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">European comforts, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">dinner, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Eyelashes, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">F.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Face, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(width of), <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Factories, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>Falsetto voice, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Family rows, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Farming region, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fasting, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ferry, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ferry-boat, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Finger-rings, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fingers, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fish diet, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">manure, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fishermen, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fishermen's huts, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fishing, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">nets, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">villages, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fire, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fleas, etc., <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Flies&mdash;black flies and horseflies, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Flint implements, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">knives, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Flirting (curious way of), <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Folk-lores, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Footprints, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of Ainu, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of Japanese, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of bears, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Forest, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Forts, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Foxes, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Frishikobets village, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fujiama, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fukushima, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Funa, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Funerals, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Furembets river, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Furimbé, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Furniture, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Furubets, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Future legend, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Fylfot, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">G.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Geology, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Geometrical patterns, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Geyser, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Girdles, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Girls (Ainu), <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(Japanese) shown in cages, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Glossary of Ainu words, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>-<a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">God, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Gokibira, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Graphic signs, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Grass, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Graves, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>-<a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Graveyard, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Guechas, or singers, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Gun-practice, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">H.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Habits and customs of pit-dwellers, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hakodate, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hakodate Bay, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Bund, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Head, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Isthmus, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Peak, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hair, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hairiness, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Half-breeds, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">castes, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(photographs of Japanese half-castes), <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">frontal bone, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">skull, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">animal propensities, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">bumps, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">age, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">rheumatism, leprosy and kaki, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hamboro, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hammanaka, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hanasaki, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hand-clapping, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hando, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Haraguchi, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Harbours (want of), <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span>and anchorages, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Harpoons, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Harutori Lagoon, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>-<a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hattaushi, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Head, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(muscular power), <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Heaven and hell, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Henson (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hera, or netting-mesh, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Herrings, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">High-days, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">High-land, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">History, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hokkaido, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hokkaido-cho, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hondemura, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horanaho or Rausu Volcano, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horse-breeding, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horse-farm, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horsemen (Ainu), <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horse-racing, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horobets, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Ainu, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horohuts, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Horoizumi, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hoshi or leggings, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hospitality, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hostilities, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hunger, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hungry dogs, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hunting, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hurupira, Mount, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hut building, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">burning, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Huts, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-<a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Hypnotism, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">I.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ice, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ichibishinai (Etorofu), <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Idyll, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Idzumizawa, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Igiani, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ikahasonets Cape, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ikuru, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ikusum River, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Imi (garments), <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Imotsuto, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Imprisonment, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Improvisators, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inao, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>-<a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">in shape of a doll, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">making, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">netuba, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Infanticides, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inflammation of the eyes, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inomata Yoshitaro, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>-<a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Insanity and idiocy, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">in half-castes, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Instincts, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Intermarriage, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">with Japanese, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iris, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iron, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Irrigation, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ishikari, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">river, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>-<a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2">(course of), <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2">Ainu, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">village, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ishikishiri penitentiary, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ishisaki, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Isoya, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(Motto Isoya, Shimakotan, Isoya), <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Italy, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iwanai, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iwaonobori, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iwa Rocks, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Iyomanrei, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">J.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Jacko (chief of Shikotan Ainu), <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Japan, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Daily Mail, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>Japanese customs, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Japanese adoption of Ainu language and ways, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">clothes, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Empire, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">government, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">hero, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">parliament, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">politeness, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">settlers, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">songs, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">villages, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">woman's toilette, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Jealousy, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Jew's harp, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Jockeys, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Jungle, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-<a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">K.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kaki, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kakumi, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamida Maru (wreck of), <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamikawa, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(population of), <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamiiro, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kaminokumi, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kammakappe, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamschatka, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamui or Kamoi, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamuieto Cape, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamuikotan, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">rapids, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kamui Mount, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><i>Kando</i> and <i>Teine-pokna-moshiri</i>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Karibayama, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kawamura, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kawata Tera, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kenashpa, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kikonai, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kimonos, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kinna (mats), <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kinney, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kiritap, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kitchen-middens, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Knife-blades, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Knives, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>-<a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kofikan, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Komagatake Volcano, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Komuki lagoon, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ko-numa, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Koshima, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kotan-kara-kamui, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kudo, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kumaishi, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kunashiri, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kunnui, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kurile Islands, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>-<a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kurile Islands (trade of), <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kurilsky Ainu, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>-<a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>-<a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kuromatsunai, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kuro-shiwo, or Japan current, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kushiro, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>-<a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>-<a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kutambets, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Kutcharo lake, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>-<a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">river, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">L.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lagoons, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Language, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">La Perouse Strait, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Laws, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Laws of marriage, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Legends, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Legend</li>
+<li class="isub1">Abe-ten-rui, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Inu-sapk, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Kimta-na, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Tushi-une-pan, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Leprosy, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Letters, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span>Libations, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Life-boat, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lighting, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lines, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lopatka Cape, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lunatics, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>-<a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">M.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Machinery, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Madwoman, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Makkarinupuri (Volcano), <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Malaise, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Malarial fever, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Manners, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Map-drawing, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Marks (owner's), <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Masatomari, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mashe (fish), <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mashike, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Mount, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>-<a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Maternal love, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mat-making, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Matrons, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Matsumai, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>-<a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Meals, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Measurements of Yezo Ainu body (Appendix), <a href="#Page_298">298</a>-<a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Measurements of Shikotan Ainu (Appendix), <a href="#Page_303">303</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Measurements of Ainu with arms outstretched, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Memuro-puto, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Menoko (girls), <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Metallurgy, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Metempsychosis, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mice and rats, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Migratory people, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">population, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Milne (Prof.), <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Missionaries, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mitsuashi River, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mocassins, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">and boots, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Model farm, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mohechi, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moi, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mombets, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Momonai, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mongolian, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">type, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Monuments, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Morality, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mori, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moroi, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mororran, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(Shin-, and Kiu-), <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mortality, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mourning, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moustache lifter, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moustache tattooed, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Movements and attitudes, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moyoro or Biru, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Moyorotake or Bear Bay, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mukawa, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Musemes, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Music, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of Ainu, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of Westerns, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">as a cure of illness, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Chromatic intervals, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">diabolical, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Diatonic minor scale, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">education in, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">to facilitate manual labour, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">feeling in, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">fondness for, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">imitation of noises in, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">key note, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">loud, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">melody, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">metre, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">modulations, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">modulations in tunes, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">passion in, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">personality in, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">rhythmical effects in, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">rhythmical method, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">sad, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">suggestions of animal sounds in, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span>teaching of, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="isub1">temperamental characteristics in, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">transformation of a theme, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">vocal, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Musical instruments, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">memory, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">notation, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">strings, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Myopy, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">N.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nagayama, Governor of the Hokkaido, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Naibo, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Naye, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nayosami Hill, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Necklaces and earrings, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nemuro, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>-<a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Neptka, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nigori River, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nii-pak-pets, River, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nippon, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nishibets, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nitumap, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nobori-bets village, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Volcano, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Noshafo Cape, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nossyap Cape, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Peninsula, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Notoro Cape, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Lake, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Notski Peninsula, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Nusa, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">O.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oak, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oakan and Moyokan, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oakan River, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Obishiro, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Obune, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Odour, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Odour of Europeans, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of women, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oitoi, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Okashi-nae Mountain, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Okos, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Okushiri Island, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Omangus, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>-<a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Onekotan, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Onembets, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Onishika, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Onnetto Lagoon, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">River, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ono-numa, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Opoto Lake, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oputateishike Mountain-mass, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oputs, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Orang-outang, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ornamentations, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>-<a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Osaru River, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oshamambe, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oshima Island, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">province, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oshoro, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Osman Pasha, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ota Cape, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otaru, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otaussi-nai Village, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otatsube, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otchishi, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otkoshk sea, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otopke Mount, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otoshibe River, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otoyebukets, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otsu, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Otsugawa River, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ottoinnai, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Owls, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oyama Iwao (Count), Minister of State for War, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Oysters, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">P.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pack-saddles, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Paddle (Hera), <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span>Para-puta, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Paro-mushir, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pasture-land, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pehambe-ushi River, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pekoatnit, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pensatsunai, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Perohune, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pestilence, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Physiognomy, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Physiological observations, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pico Strait, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Piegawa River, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pipes, etc., <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Piratori, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Valley, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pit-dwellers (Koro-pok-kuru), <a href="#Page_77">77</a>-<a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>-<a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pit-dwellers' implements, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pits, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>-<a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>-<a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Plateau, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">like peninsula, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poisoned arrows, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Polygamy, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Polytheists, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pombets, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ponies, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pon-machi (small wife), <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pontoo, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pooley, Mr., <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Population, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Porobets River, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poronai, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>-<a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">coal-mines, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poro-machi (great wife), <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poro-nam-bets River, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poro-usa, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Posturing, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pottery, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Poverty of the Ainu, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of blood, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Prayers, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Prehistoric man, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Progeny of mixed marriages, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Provisions, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Publications on the Ainu, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pulse-beat, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Pumice, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Punishments, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Purokenashpa, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Q.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Quarrels, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Quicksands, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Quicksand River, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Quiver, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">R.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rags, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rahush Mount (Kunashiri), <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rain, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Raishats, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rattler (H.M.S.), <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Recitative, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Reeds and rushes, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Reefs, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Relations, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Religion, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Religious ideas, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">race, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Repun, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Repunshiri, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Resurrection of the body, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Reversed coil, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rheumatism, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rhyme, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Riding, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">bareback, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Riruran, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rishiri Island, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rivers,</li>
+<li class="isub1">peculiarity in, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">troublesome, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Roasting hook, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Robinson Crusoe, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rocks, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Roofs, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rubeshibe River, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rubets, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rumoi, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Russia, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span>exchange with, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Russian Bible, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">convicts, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">cruiser, Crisorok, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">régime, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">S.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sacrilege, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sadness, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saint Andrew's Cross, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sake, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sakhalin or Krafto, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sakhalin Ainu, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salaams, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salutation, Ainu, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salmon, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salmon, dried, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salmon-fishing, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Salmon-trout, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sandals, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sappro, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>-<a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sardine fishing, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saru-buto, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saru district, climate of, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sarubuts, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saruffo-Ko Lagoon, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saruma Lagoon, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saru-Mombets, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saru River, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Ainu, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Saruru, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Satsuma, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Satsumai and Ghifzan, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Satsuma Maru, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Savage dance, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Savage Landor, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Savages, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sawaki, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Scenery, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Scitzo, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>-<a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sea-birds, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Se-Cherippe Lagoon, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Seal-fishery, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Seals, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sea-trout, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sea-weed, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sensation, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sense</li>
+<li class="isub1">of hearing, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>-<a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of sight, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of smell, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of taste, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of touch, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sensitiveness, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of lips, tongue, hands, fingers, lumbar region, etc., <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sexual love, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shakotan, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Cape, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Peninsula, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shama-ne, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>-<a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shame and disgust, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shamesen, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shana, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shanoi, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shari, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>-<a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shari-Mombets, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shaubets, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shell-heaps, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shibe-gari-pets, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shibetcha, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>-<a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shibets, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shibumotzunai Lagoon, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shikarubets Otchirsh, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>-<a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shikotan, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>-<a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Ainu, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Island, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shimokebo, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>-<a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shimushir, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>-<a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shina, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiofuki, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shirakami Cape, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiranuka, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiraoi, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiretoko Cape, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Peninsula, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiribeshi Province, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiribets, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shirikishinai, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shirin Lake, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shiriuchi, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shoals and reefs, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shooting rapids, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>-<a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span>Shorui-washi, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shoulders, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shoya, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>-<a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Shrine, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Siberian coast, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Siliusi lighthouse, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Skin, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">colour of, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">eruptions, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Skull trophy, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sleep, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sleeping, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Slyness, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Smoke, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">black, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Snow, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">and glaciers, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">sandals, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Singing, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sitting, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Soldiers, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Songs, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sorachi river, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Soshi, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Soul, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Soya Cape, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spain, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spears, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Speculation, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spezia, Gulf of, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spiders, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spoons, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Spruces, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stackhouse, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Statistics, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stealing, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Steeplechase, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stone (peculiar), <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">images, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Storehouses, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Storeys, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Storm, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Strength, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Struggle, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Submerged crater, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Submission, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Suicides, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sulkiness, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sulphur, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sulphur beds, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">mine, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Supernaturalism, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Superstition, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Swamps, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Swearing, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Swift rivers, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sword-hilts (Japanese), <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sydney Smith's position, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Symbols, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sympathy, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">T.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Taikki (fleas), <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tailor's sign-post, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Takae village, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Takigawa, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Takkobe Lake, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tapkara (a savage dance), <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tarbouches, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tartary, Gulf of, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tarsus, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tarumai Volcano, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tattoos, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>-<a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(colour of), <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(legend on), <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tattooing (process of), <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tattooed women, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tcharo-bets, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tcha-tcha-nobori Volcano, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tchiota, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tears, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Teeth of half-castes, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Temper, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tendo Achillis, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tent, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Terra del Fuegians, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Terror, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Teshio coast, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">River, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>-<a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tetcha or Tetchkanga, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span>Teuri, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Thatching, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Theft, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Thiaske Tarra, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Thousand Islands, or Chishima, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Thread-winding, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tibia, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tide-rips, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tobuts, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tobuts Lake, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Todohotke, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toi, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tokachi, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Ainu, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>-<a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">district, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">region, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">River, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>-<a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tokio, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tokri-moi, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tokumatz Kuroda, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tomamai, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tomakomai, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tombets River, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tombs, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tonden, or military settlement <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tones, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toreador, in Carmen, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Torii (emblems), <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tori Lake, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Totemism, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">To'tori, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toshibets River, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toya Lake, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toyohira River, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Toyoshira Valley, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Trackers (Ainu), <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tracking, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>-<a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tradition, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Transmission of diseases, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">of images to the brain, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Travellers (foreign), <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tree-dwellers of India, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Trees, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Triangles, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tribes, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Trovatore, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tukoro, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tunnel, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tunnui-puto, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Turkish ship (wreck of), <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tsiriju Mount, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Tsugaru Strait, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Types, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Typhoon, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">U.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ubahu, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Uhui Cape, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ukorra, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ulmus Campestris, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Campestris bark, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Campestris fibre, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ulna, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Uparpenai, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Urahoro River, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Urakawa, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Urapets River, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Uriugawa River, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Urup, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Usa, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ushoro, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Uso, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Uso Volcano, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Utarop Rocks, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Usushiri, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">V.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Vegetation, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Villages, Ainu, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Vines, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Virginity, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Virility, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Volcanic nature, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">formation, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">mass, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">zone, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span>Volcano, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Volcano Bay, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Ainu, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Volcanoes, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">W.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wadamanai, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wakkanai, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">War-clubs, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Washibets, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Washing, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Watanabe Masaru, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Waterfalls, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Water-soup, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Weaving, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wembets, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wembets River, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Westerns, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Whales' bones, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wife, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(great wife), <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(second), <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Winter, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">garments, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Witches, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wolves, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Women, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Women standing, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">and children at a festival, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">(burial of), <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">feeding bears, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">suckling bear cubs, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Women's graves, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wood-carving, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wooden blade, carved, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">bowls, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">panels, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wrecks, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>-<a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Written language, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Worship, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Y.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yagoshi Cape, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yamakubiro, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yamakushinai, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yammakka, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yangeshiri, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yassuchi, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">Lagoon, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yezo, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yoichi, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yoshioka village, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yoshitsune or Okikurumi, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>. (Also  see  Hero, Japanese.)</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yubaridake, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yubets, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub1">River, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yuhuts, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yurap, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yurapdake Mount, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yuto Lake, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Yuzan Volcano, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Z.</li>
+
+<li class="indx">Zenzai lakes, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p class="center small">LONDON: PRINTED BY WM. CLOWES AND SONS, LTD., STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Nobori</i>, mountain, volcano; <i>bets</i>, river, stream.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Shirao</i>, horse-fly; <i>i</i>, a suffix meaning <i>a place</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>To</i>, lake, swamp; <i>mak</i>, behind; <i>oma</i>, inside; <i>i</i>, a suffix meaning
+<i>a place</i>, or "a place behind which a hidden swamp is found."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> <i>Yu</i>, springs; <i>huts</i>, mouth of river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i>Horo</i>, large; <i>hut</i>, <i>huts</i>, <i>put</i>, the mouth of a river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Small Japanese dinner tables.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> At-pets&mdash;Elm-tree river (<i>at</i>, elm-tree; <i>pets</i>, river).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Nii-pak-pets&mdash;also called Nakap-pets. <i>Nii</i>, a wood; <i>pak</i>, under;
+<i>na</i>, more; <i>kap</i>, bark of tree.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Shibe-gari-pets&mdash;Salmon-trout river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> <i>Ikan</i>, a canal made by salmon on river-beds to lay their spawn; <i>tai</i>
+thick.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <i>Poro</i>, large; <i>nam</i>, cold; <i>bets</i>, river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Moyoro. <i>Moy</i>, a bay; <i>oro</i>, to be in.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Onnito. <i>Onni</i> or <i>Onne</i>, great, large; <i>to</i>, lake, swamp.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Bitatannuki. <i>Bita</i>, to undo; <i>tannu</i>, long; <i>ki</i>, rushes, reeds.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> <i>Pero</i> or <i>Pira</i>, cliff; <i>Hune</i>, <i>Hun</i>, a particle indicating the existence
+of something at a place.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> <i>Toy</i>, earth; <i>o</i>, (?) <i>i</i>, a place; <i>pets,</i> river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <i>To</i>, lake, swamp; <i>buts</i>, mouth of a river. <i>O</i>, a meaningless prefix;
+<i>puts</i>, mouth of a river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Rev. John Batchelor, 'The Ainu of Japan,' chap. xx.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> <i>U</i>, place; <i>par</i>, mouth; <i>pe</i>, undrinkable water; <i>nai</i>, stream; <i>Upar-penai</i>,
+a place at the mouth of a stream of undrinkable water.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> <i>Me</i>, in front; <i>mu</i>, sheltered spot in a river; <i>ro</i>, track; <i>puto</i>, mouth
+of river; <i>Memuro-puto</i>, track in front of a sheltered spot at the mouth of
+a river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> <i>Otto</i>, into; <i>i</i>, a place; <i>nai</i>, stream; <i>Ottoinnai</i>, a place in a stream.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> <i>Nitumap</i>, open trunk of a tree.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> <i>Ni</i>, wood; <i>piri</i>, wound; <i>bets</i>, river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> <i>Puro</i>, great; <i>ke</i>, I; <i>nashpa</i>, deafening noise.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> <i>Ke</i>, I; <i>nashpa</i>, deafening noise.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> <i>Beppo</i> or <i>pet put</i>, at the mouth of a river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <i>Nesan</i>, a corruption of <i>annesan</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> <i>Ko</i>, lake; <i>shto</i>, man. <i>Ko</i> is probably a corruption of the Ainu word
+<i>to</i>, a lake or a swamp, and it is used by the Japanese of Yezo for "lake,"
+instead of the word "<i>numa</i>."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> The correct name and pronunciation is <i>Shimushir</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> The opposite coast of Nippon can be seen plainly from Hakodate.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The Japanese always begin their meals with sweets.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> <i>Shimushir</i>, High Island.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> <i>Urup</i>, name given to a kind of salmon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> <i>Krafto</i>, Ainu word for Sakhalin.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> <i>Poro</i>, large; <i>nai</i>, stream.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> Sometimes also pronounced <i>Krafto.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The only attempt at animal representation is the small bear-head in
+chiefs' crowns.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> <i>Nipesh</i>: a kind of hemp.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> <i>Kotan</i>, village, place, site; <i>kara</i>, to make, build; <i>kamui</i>, the man,
+ancient, strength.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> <i>Chisei</i>, house, dwelling, hut; <i>kara</i>, make; also, have.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> <i>Teine</i>, wet; <i>pokna</i>, under; <i>moshiri</i>, earth, place, island.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Vol. X., Part II., §6.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> The vowels to be pronounced as in Italian.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="r65" />
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's Notes</h2>
+
+<p>The following changes have been made in the text.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center">Page</td><td align="center">Original</td><td align="center">Changed to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">53</td><td align="center">do</td><td align="center">no</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">305</td><td align="center">2/8</td><td align="center">¼</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Some images have been moved a couple of paragraphs in the HTML version for better formatting.</p>
+
+<p>A number of words occur both in hyphenated and unhyphenated forms in the text.</p>
+
+<p>The map in the beginning of the book is linked to a larger version in the "images" subdirectory of the current directory.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Alone with the Hairy Ainu, by A. H. Savage Landor
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