diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-8.txt | 8767 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 178540 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 2657722 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/38691-h.htm | 8958 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 45474 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/frontisea.png | bin | 0 -> 137990 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo016a.png | bin | 0 -> 172538 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo016b.png | bin | 0 -> 213955 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo018.png | bin | 0 -> 196906 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo018a.png | bin | 0 -> 221584 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo064.png | bin | 0 -> 71010 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo064a.png | bin | 0 -> 93475 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo080.png | bin | 0 -> 82311 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo080a.png | bin | 0 -> 88045 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo112.png | bin | 0 -> 84486 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo112a.png | bin | 0 -> 96576 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo128.png | bin | 0 -> 70229 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo128a.png | bin | 0 -> 68981 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo160.png | bin | 0 -> 65235 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo160a.png | bin | 0 -> 59982 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo170a.png | bin | 0 -> 65075 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo170b.png | bin | 0 -> 69470 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo192a.png | bin | 0 -> 177415 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo192b.png | bin | 0 -> 81326 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo208.png | bin | 0 -> 76318 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo208a.png | bin | 0 -> 67767 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo224.png | bin | 0 -> 86495 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691-h/images/illo224a.png | bin | 0 -> 71329 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691.txt | 8767 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38691.zip | bin | 0 -> 178459 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
33 files changed, 26508 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/38691-8.txt b/38691-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fe84a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8767 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Down Under With the Prince + +Author: Everard Cotes + +Release Date: January 27, 2012 [EBook #38691] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +-----------------------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original | + | document has been adjusted. | + | | + | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. For | + | a complete list, please see the end of this file. | + | | + +-----------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + + DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE + + + + + BY THE SAME AUTHOR + + SIGNS AND PORTENTS IN THE FAR EAST + +[Illustration: H.R.H. ON DECK: AN INTERRUPTION] + + + + + DOWN UNDER WITH + THE PRINCE + + BY + EVERARD COTES + + WITH TWENTY-THREE ILLUSTRATIONS + + METHUEN & CO. LTD. + 36 ESSEX STREET, W.C. + LONDON + + + + + _First Published in 1921_ + + + + +This book attempts to be a gangway to the _Renown_ for the reader who +would travel by battle-cruiser, by train, on horseback, by motor, and on +foot, the forty-five thousand miles of his Australasian tour with H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales. It is built by one who travelled, as a +correspondent, with him all the way. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + I AT SEA 1 + + II BARBADOS 9 + + III PANAMA 15 + + IV SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 22 + + V HONOLULU 27 + + VI NEPTUNE BOARDS THE _RENOWN_ 35 + + VII FIJI 41 + + VIII AUCKLAND 47 + + IX NORTH ISLAND 59 + + X SOUTH ISLAND 73 + + XI ENTERPRISE IN NEW ZEALAND 87 + + XII VICTORIA 100 + + XIII NEW SOUTH WALES 116 + + XIV SOME COMMONWEALTH AFFAIRS 130 + + XV WESTERN AUSTRALIA 140 + + XVI WHEAT, GOLD, AND LOGGING 148 + + XVII THE NULLARBOR PLAIN 158 + + XVIII SOUTH AUSTRALIA 163 + + XIX TASMANIA 170 + + XX QUEENSLAND 176 + + XXI THE JACKAROO AND OTHERS 192 + + XXII AMONGST THE SHEEP 200 + + XXIII EASTWARD HO 211 + + XXIV THE WEST INDIES 221 + + XXV THE BERMUDAS 236 + + XXVI THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TOUR 242 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + H.R.H. ON DECK: AN INTERRUPTION _Frontispiece_ + + FACING PAGE + + PANAMA CANAL: A SHARP CORNER 16 + + SURF-BOARDING AT HONOLULU 16 + + EXCITEMENT GROWS IN AUCKLAND HARBOUR 18 + + NEW ZEALAND: THE PRIME MINISTER TAKES CHARGE 18 + _From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin_ + + WELLINGTON: A CANOE IN THE PETONE PAGEANT 64 + _From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin_ + + "THE MAORI PEOPLE WILL BE TRUE TILL DEATH" 64 + + WESTPORT CHILDREN: A TUMULT OF FLAGS AND FLOWERS 80 + + DUNEDIN'S WELCOME 80 + _From Photographs by Guy, Dunedin_ + + WITH AUSTRALIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED CITIZEN 112 + _From a Photograph by the Central News Agency, Ltd._ + + JUTLAND DAY AT MELBOURNE 112 + + GOVERNMENT HOUSE GARDENS, NEW SOUTH WALES 128 + + PERTH, FROM THE KING'S PARK 128 + + CROSSING THE NULLARBOR PLAIN 160 + + ABORIGINAL DANCE 160 + + LEAVING PORT ADELAIDE 170 + + MOUNT WELLINGTON, HOBART 170 + + THE BACKBLOCKS: AN UNOFFICIAL FIXTURE 192 + + HIS FAVOURITE MOUNT 192 + + EMU ON A SHEEP-RUN 208 + + GOOD-BYE TO SYDNEY HARBOUR 208 + + SAMOA MAKES MERRY 224 + + TRINIDAD: IN THE DRAGON'S MOUTH 224 + +The thanks of the writer are due to those who have contributed +photographs for the illustrations, and especially to Sir Godfrey Thomas, +Bart. + + + + +DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE + + + + +I + +AT SEA + + +One March morning of last year, an ordinary train moved out of Waterloo +Station for Portsmouth, and among the ordinary people it carried were at +least two or three who were going further. They sat together and smoked, +and exchanged experiences and speculations. As the train slowed down at +Portsmouth Harbour they looked from the carriage windows and saw the +fighting tops of a big battle-cruiser lifted grey against the sky above +the houses of the foreshore, and one said to another "There she is." + +There she was, the _Renown_, in alongside, waiting to sail with His +Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to Australasia. It was the day before +and already the function was in the quickened air. Scraps of coloured +bunting fluttered and flew on the wharf sheds. Dockyard officials gave +orders with more responsibility than ever immediately under their caps. +The travellers from Waterloo went up the gangway to the quarter-deck, +successfully passed the officer of the watch, and found their quarters. +They were the journalists of the tour, there on behalf of the people at +home, that multitudinous "public" which, for lack of accommodation on +the _Renown_, must see the Prince's tour in the convex mirror of the +daily press. + +Next day the function flowered. The Royal train rolled in. The red +carpet was spread and the Chief Passenger went up the gangway, with +every sign and circumstance by which his country could mark the occasion +of his going. + +Gently the grey turrets slid out from the crowded wharf into the leaden +expanse of harbour. "Auld Lang Syne" rang into the chill wind that +rocked the rowing-boats lining the fairway. Ant-like figures swarmed +into the tall rigging of Nelson's flagship, which lay, bedecked all +over, her old oak sides stiff in checkered squares of black and white, +while her ancient muzzle-loaders banged off a smoky salvo--the senior +ship of the British Navy wishing Godspeed to her fighting junior on +Royal Service starting. The hundred and twenty thousand horse-power +steam turbines of the battle-cruiser quickened their rhythmic throb. The +still shouting crowds ashore faded to dark stains on the Southsea beach. +The red and gold of the Royal standard fluttered down from the main, and +the _Renown_ put out to sea, starting on this pleasant commission with +the same certitude and the same cheeriness, the same discipline and the +same lightness of heart, the same directness of purpose, and above all +things the same absence of fuss, with which she had often gone upon +errands perilous. The voyage, so much anticipated and chronicled, had +begun, and the convincing thing was that it was going to be, from the +_Renown's_ point of view, precisely like other voyages. That impression +came with the first turn of the propeller and remained, it may be said +at once, until the last. The circumstance and ceremonial of the +departure, the pomp of Royalty and the glitter of an Imperial mission +had all merged, before the sun set in the cloud-bank of that March +afternoon, in the sense of function and routine, detached and +disregarding, that controls life in His Majesty's ships at sea. + +The _Renown_ is the most recent, the fastest, and the best armed +battle-cruiser in the world. She received at her christening the proud +traditions, extending over three hundred years, of the battles of the +British Navy, having had no less than seven fighting predecessors of the +same name, beginning with the gallant little wooden frigate _Renommée_, +captured in 1653 from the French and transferred to the British +squadrons where she became the first of the famous _Renowns_. The +present vessel was built as lately as 1916, when British need was great. +She remains a record of what those strenuous times could do. + +For all her thirty-two thousand tons and gigantic armament of mammoth +guns this great battle-cruiser slides through the water with the +smoothness of the otter. She moved steadily at eighteen knots an hour +from the time she left Portsmouth, a pace which, for this last word in +fighting machines, is mere half-speed, though it is as fast as most +suburban trains can travel. She is so big that surprisingly little +motion is noticeable at sea, though waves wash freely over forecastle +and quarter-deck, contracting the space available for the exercise and +training of the large fighting crew she carries. This intimacy with the +ocean is an impression acquired early and vividly by the civilian on +board a fighting ship. A voyage on a big liner is a quite super-marine +experience by comparison, with a picturesque and phosphorescent basis +some distance below a sleepy deck-chair, and not necessarily observed at +all. A battleship penetrates rather than sails the sea, and takes very +little interest in keeping any part of herself dry. It is impossible to +ignore the ocean on such a vessel. The _Renown_ was no less amphibian +than others of her class. The accommodation contrived for the Prince was +itself liable to ruthless visitation, and even the cabin on the +superstructure, which held the chroniclers of his Odyssey, and was the +highest inhabited spot beneath the bridge, occasionally took +considerably more than enough water to dilute the ink. + +Naturally there was nothing in her mission to interfere with the +_Renown's_ ordinary routine at sea. Training, gun-drill and inspections +went on as usual and it was impossible not to be penetrated with the +fact that these things were admirably done. For the passengers the day +began with breakfast in the ward-room at eight. Soon after nine the +whole ship's company assembled in divisions, in different parts of the +vessel. Kits were inspected and the day's duty commenced. One realized, +as one watched the proceedings, how completely the war has abolished the +old navy methods of stiffness and pipeclay. The relations between +officers and men are of the pleasantest and most human character. Nobody +is asked to do anything not of definite importance to the welfare of the +ship, or to the training and the making fit of the men. The navigation, +the keeping of the watches, the working of the complicated machinery by +which the vessel is driven, steered and lighted, the handling of the +gigantic guns, and the running of such supplementary services as those +of supply and wireless, proceed upon simple matter-of-fact business +principles, under the direction of the Captain, who controls the +organization as a whole. Immediately under the Captain are the +Navigation Commander, the Administration Commander, the Engineer +Commander, the Gunnery Lieutenant-Commander, the Torpedo +Lieutenant-Commander, the Principal Medical Officer, and the Paymaster, +each an expert in the particular branch he is responsible for. +Unquestionably an expert too is the ship's parson who, himself belonging +to the upper deck, is related, by his duties, so closely to the lower, +as to afford a personal link between the two, which no less sympathetic +or more official intermediary could supply. Each of the departments I +have named is manned by its own staff of officers and men, who are all +trained to carry out definite functions with cheerfulness, confidence +and goodwill. On the _Renown_ the same healthy spirit was to be found in +every one aboard, from the Flag-Lieutenant down to the humblest stoker. +It is an early inoculation of Osborne and Exmouth and apparently expands +in the system with promotion. + +At general divisions on Sundays, the entire ship's company assembled for +inspection on the decks, each officer at the head of his respective +contingent. A finer sight than these divisions it would be impossible to +find, the men well-set-up, and bearing decorations won in every naval +engagement during the war, from Zeebrugge to the Falkland Islands, and +from the Dardanelles to Jutland, wearing too in many cases the red +triple stripe upon the sleeve which tells of fifteen years of good +service under the White Ensign. + +A battle-cruiser has many aspects. It is a fortress with parade grounds +and cricket pitches, a monastery with divagations in port, a school of +many things besides arithmetic, and a community that could teach social +law to Mr. Hyndman. It is above all from this point of view the home, +the castle and the club of the officers and men who inhabit it, and the +centre of these significances is the ward-room. The _Renown's_ had an +ante-room which enshrined the files, not greatly disturbed, of a few +newspapers, and was a most comfortable smoking-room, but it was about +the tables and chairs, the Mess President's mallet and the unwearied +piano of the ward-room itself that the hoariest traditions of His +Majesty's Navy most conspicuously flourished and the atmospheric essence +of the Senior Service most happily clung. + +There is a variety of the game of Patience played with cards called +"Knock." It was plainly invented, in a moment of drowsy leave, by a +sub-lieutenant to whom had arrived the felicity of ordering, by a stroke +upon the table, Commander X or Lieutenant-Commander Y to "pass the wine" +in penalty for having read an urgent signal from the bridge and omitted +to excuse himself to him, the said Sub-Lieutenant, and Mess President +for the week, though youngest officer present. Various were the offences +thus visited across the field of the repast, which had a goal at each +end, kept, so to speak, by the Chaplain, with his grace before and after +meat. In that consecrated interval no lady's name may be pronounced, and +nothing of any sort may be perused. The Spell with which the ward-room +guards its daily history at once paralyses the pen. There is really no +way of learning much about these things except by entering the Navy or +persuading a battle-cruiser to give you a berth in her, opportunities +which occur but seldom to any of us. The relaxations of that genial and +athletic place form a tempting theme, but it is better for the +publishers that a modest number of these volumes should reach the +libraries than that a whole edition should be sunk at sea. + +All this announced and admitted however, this was the voyage to +Australasia of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and the _Renown_, at least in +the public eye, must be subordinated to her duty. + +The Prince was to be met quite often, going about the ship, like anybody +else, with always an unaffected word and pleasant smile for those he ran +up against. He did a good deal of reading and other work in his +state-room in the morning, but in the afternoon he often shared in the +recreations of the officers, playing squash racquets in a small court +that had been rigged up upon the superstructure, shooting at clay discs +thrown out from the ship's side by means of a spring trap, or running +and doing Swedish exercises on the poop. H.R.H. ordinarily messed with +the Captain and the members of the Royal Staff, in the cuddy, which had +been enlarged and pleasantly decorated in ivory and green for the +purpose; but he was also an honorary member of the ward-room and +gun-room messes and sometimes dined with one or other of them. On other +nights he often had officers or passengers to dine with himself and his +staff, in the simplest and most informal way, his guests coming away +with the pleasantest impressions of unpretentious good fellowship and +cheery company. On these occasions the Prince himself proposed the +health of the King, and about this ceremony, simply and modestly as it +was observed, hung an odd little Imperial thrill. Republics are worthy +forms of Government, but they impose upon no man the duty of toasting +his own father. It was a gesture that somehow placed the youthful host +momentarily apart--one imagines his having to reconquer the effect of it +as often as he makes it. + +The Prince is keen upon naval affairs and soon knew the ship from one +end to the other. He often accompanied the Captain on inspections and +took a hand in all sorts of duties, down to those of the oil furnaces. +He sampled the men's food, tasted their grog and would often have a +cheery chat with them. There was no attempt to sequester the Chief +Passenger. He shared and contributed to the life of the ship. + + + + +II + +BARBADOS + + +Gloom was cast over the _Renown_, the day before reaching Barbados, by +the falling overboard, in rough weather, of a fine young gunner of +marines, who was sitting on the taffrail gaily talking to his mates when +a roll came that sent him into the sea. The poor fellow had hardly +stopped falling when patent life-buoys, which sent out white clouds of +smoke, easily visible in the bright afternoon sunshine, were dropped. +The big ship swung round. The man was swimming, when lost to view +amongst white-topped waves. A boat was smartly lowered, and within +fifteen minutes of the cry "Man overboard," the rowers had reached the +buoys and were carefully searching the precise spot where the speck +which had been one of our company had disappeared. The Prince was much +concerned at the accident, and came upon deck the moment he heard of it. +But our hearts grew heavy as the minutes went by and the search proved +vain. It had eventually to be recognized that the unfortunate man had +sunk before reaching the life-buoys, close as they had been dropped to +him in the water. A funeral service was afterwards held on the +forecastle, the entire ship's company and all the officers attending to +pay respect to the memory of their shipmate. The Prince also sent a +personal message by wireless to the relations of the deceased. It was +one of those accidents that no amount of care can entirely prevent, upon +the necessarily low, and but slightly fenced decks of a modern +battle-cruiser in a heavy sea. + +The following evening the _Renown_ arrived off Barbados. The +light-cruiser _Calcutta_, flagship of the West Indian squadron, met her +at sea and escorted her in to the anchorage half a mile from shore. A +dozen sailing barques, mostly American, also three or four steamers of +various nationalities, were lying at anchor, all of them decked with +bunting in honour of the Royal visit. The usual salutes were fired and +formal exchange of calls between the Prince and Sir Charles O'Brien, +Governor of the island, and Admiral Everett, commanding the West Indian +station, took place. + +It was the first pause for the purpose of the tour, the first official +touch. The feeling of function, of standing at attention, which was soon +to clothe the enterprise as with a garment, fell upon all concerned. The +silk hat for the first time bobbed in the visiting steam-launch, and the +address came out of the breast pocket of the municipal morning coat. + +Bridgetown, the capital of Barbados, as seen from the _Renown_ through +the soft warm muggy atmosphere of the end of March, was a tumbled mass +of white and red buildings embowered in emerald foliage, and fringed by +the masts of anchored sailing vessels, themselves reflected in the +broken amethyst of the open roadstead. The narrow streets had been +decorated by the wives and daughters of the residents, headed by Lady +Carter, wife of a late governor of the island, who had expended an +immense amount of labour upon the work. Gigantic sago-palm leaves had +grown into royal emblems wherein the fronds took the place of feathers. +The Broad Street of the city might have been a Cantonese bazaar, so +thick was it with coloured banners. Nelson's statue, in the local +Trafalgar Square, looked out of a mass of brilliant floral designs. An +imposing triumphal arch of flowers had also been erected. Even the tiny +wooden huts of the negroes, on the outskirts, carried paper decorations +that must have cost much labour to make. A well-set-up company of +volunteers furnished a guard-of-honour at the landing. The members of +the Barbados House of Assembly, headed by the Governor in white +political uniform, received the Prince. Bands and salutes added to the +formality of the occasion. Complimentary addresses were presented in the +old Assembly House, where the Prince shook hands with a remarkably long +line of returned military and naval officers and men, for Barbados sent +an extraordinary large proportion of her sons to the war. + +A fleet of motor-cars then turned up and the Prince was taken for a +drive through the island. The procession was headed by that veteran +planter and member of Assembly, Mr. Graham Yearwood, who seemed to have +at his finger-ends every local romance of the past three hundred years, +from the story of the "Rendezvous" on the coast, where loyalist planters +repelled the onslaught of Cromwellian squadrons, to that of a certain +cavernous gully which we also saw, where, for long months, was hidden +the body of a swashbuckling moss-trooper slain in single combat by a +Barbadian planter. The Prince was also conducted over the buzzing +machinery of an immense, up-to-date sugar-factory, fitted with the +latest appliances, and learnt something of the vicissitudes of the sugar +industry, an enterprise which was doggedly operated through years of low +prices, bad crops, and hurricanes, and only narrowly saved from complete +bankruptcy by a grant obtained from the British Parliament by Mr. Joseph +Chamberlain. At the time of the Royal visit, it was in a state of +abounding prosperity with prices at twelve times their pre-war level. +Even with the year's by no means favourable season the current crop was +valued at eight times the average of five years previously, which meant +ease and comfort to all connected with this premier industry of the +island. + +The whole of the city portion of the route was lined--in places ten +deep--with cheering, laughing, bowing coloured people and their women +and piccaninnies; the folk of the cane fields and factories. In the +country portion of the route, negroes rushed to the roadside from their +work in the fields the moment the Royal car appeared in sight. "God +bless you!" they cried to the Prince. "Come! Come! Lookee here, he too +sweet boy!" "God bless my old eyes that have seen him," mingled with +laughter and the clapping of hands, while old men bowed low, with +dignified, wide-armed, slow gesticulation, and women and girls, +sometimes smartly got-up with head-kerchiefs made of Union Jacks, and +always with strong, free hip-gait, and the widest of white-toothed +smiles, came running to drop a curtsy or bend in salute. It was real +contagious joy and excitement, like the overflowing froth of a bottle of +Guinness, and as for the noise only a Jazz Band could describe it. + +The road was sometimes crowded with four-wheeled mule-drawn carts, +piled high with fresh-cut, yellow sugar-cane, on its way to the presses, +each stem the thickness of a rolling-pin and the length of a +cavalryman's lance, for the harvesting was in full swing. The negroes +take the crop, which looks much like sorghum or Indian corn, with +cutlasses, primitive work done by primitive people. The luscious growth +needs a good deal of fertilizing and care the year round, and +generations of these simple folk have thriven upon it since the middle +of the seventeenth century. Seventy-four thousand acres of it there are +and probably a hundred thousand negroes producing it, all, so far as we +could observe, delighted to see the Prince of Wales. + +The road wound sometimes through pillared aisles of stately sago-palms, +past dense groves of green mahogany and bread-fruit trees or brilliantly +red flowering devil-trees, hibiscus, and silk-cotton. Sometimes one saw +brown heaps of sweet potatoes, as large as turnips, just dug from the +earth. The procession climbed through open fields of uncut sugar-cane +and sorghum, getting a fine view of rolling cultivation, bordered with +blue sea and white surf-swept beach. Ancient windmills swung black, +droning sails on the hill-tops. Tall brick chimneys told of +long-established crushing mills close to the cane fields. Cheerful +villages of flimsy wooden shacks and solid stone houses followed one +another in quick succession, each with its inhabitants lined up in +holiday clothes to cheer. Again and again the Prince alighted to inspect +boy-scouts, girl-guides, and war-workers, or to say a pleasant word to +assemblies of school-children. One gathering proved a community of +"Red-legs," descendants, now of mixed race, of Scotch and Irish prisoners +of war and "unruly men" exiled and sold for seven years as white +servants to the colony in 1653. It was easy to pick out in the +white-clad crowd individuals with negro features and pale Celtic skins. + +Later in the day, the Prince attended a formal state dinner, and evoked +a storm of applause by contradicting emphatically a rumour, which had +been causing a good deal of anxiety in the island, to the effect that +there was a possibility of some of the West Indies being disposed of to +America. "I need hardly say," said His Royal Highness, downrightly, +"that the King's subjects are not for sale to other governments. Their +destiny, as free men, is in their own hands. Your future is for you +yourselves to shape, and I am sure Barbados will never waver in its +loyalty, three centuries old, to the British Crown." + +It would thus appear that Cromwell's experiment is not likely to be +developed by the present government. The assurance was noteworthy as the +first of the pleasant and telling things the Prince had to say during +his progress, opportunities which he never missed and which, in the +aggregate, enhanced so greatly the success of his mission. + + + + +III + +PANAMA + + +At dawn, in hot, soft, hazy weather, the _Renown_, followed by the +_Calcutta_, left the blue, transparent waters of the Caribbean Sea and +entered the green, muddy channel, fringed with dense, verdant forest, +which is the beginning of the Panama Canal. Three aeroplanes, each +bearing the stripes of the American Air Service, droned overhead in +noisy welcome. Resonant concussions and white, fleecy puffs of smoke +amidst low wharves and jetties where Colon lay in the forest, spread a +Royal salute upon the vibrating air. Music arose upon the _Renown_, +while staff-officers arrayed themselves in gold-lace and helmets, ready +to receive the Prince's guests. Launches arrived at the ship bringing +the British Minister to Panama, Mr. Percy Bennett, accompanied by +Captain Blake and Major-General Bethell, respectively naval and military +attachés at the British Embassy at Washington. An hour's quiet steaming, +thereafter, brought us to the giant Gatun locks, which stand in three +black tiers of steel, the gates rising, one above another, in a massive +setting of grey, rounded concrete, a severing gash in the high, green +hill which is the Gatun dam. Here, Señor Lefevre, President of the +Panama Republic, Admiral Johnston and Colonel Kennedy, commanding the +American naval and military forces in the Panama Zone, also Engineer +Colonel Harding, Governor of the Canal, and Monsieur Simonin, French +Chargé d'Affairs, came on board. + +The formality attending these official arrivals, so often to be repeated +throughout the tour, was practically always the same. The visitor who +came up the gangway from the dock or the launch, as the case might be, +saluted the quarter-deck--a survival this from the days when it bore a +crucifix--and was saluted in turn by the Officer of the Watch, who, with +his telescope tucked under his arm, conveyed the stranger past the row +of marines drawn up at attention to the Captain and the Equerry in +waiting, who brought him up the starboard companion to the mezzanine +deck. Here he would be received by the Prince attended by his Staff. The +visit seldom exceeded twenty minutes. When H.R.H. left the ship for the +shore the Captain awaited him on the quarter-deck and conducted him past +the marines presenting arms to the gangway. On these occasions the +junior members of the party were the first to step off, finishing with +the Admiral and last of all the Prince, both Admiral and Prince being +"piped over the side" to the shrill music of the bos'n's whistle. There +was as little variation about the arrival on shore. Always the +guard-of-honour, the band, the stunting aeroplanes, always six bars of +"God Save the King" and the pause at attention, always the hand-shaking +with the officer commanding the guard-of-honour, the inspection, and so +to the business and pleasure of the visit. + +[Illustration: PANAMA CANAL: A SHARP CORNER] + +[Illustration: SURF-BOARDING AT HONOLULU] + +On this occasion the guard of American soldiers in white uniforms and +the familiar wide-brimmed hats was drawn up upon the lawn beside the +topmost lock. Thence, past some thousands of prosperous-looking +employees of the Canal, and their families, who had turned out to see +the reception, the Prince was taken to the Control House, whence the +whole of the operations of the locks are regulated, from the +manipulating of the little, black, towing mule-engines, which ran +busily, like scarabaeid beetles, up and down rails set in concrete +slopes on the top of the lock walls, to the opening and closing of the +seventy-foot high gates, and the letting in and letting out of the green +sluggish water. + +From the veranda of the Control House we got our first striking +impression of the dramatic achievement of the Canal. We were on the +level of the wide island dotted expanse of the Gatun lake. The +enormous _Renown_ and the tiny _Calcutta_ lay, side by side, in +thousand-feet-long pools, at our feet, in a turmoil of waves of rushing +water, out of which, from time to time, some frightened fish would leap, +a silver gleam that disappeared before one had made out its shape or +kind. The great design was in action before our eyes. The locks opened +and closed with extraordinary speed and almost noiseless efficiency, and +by the time the Prince had returned from inspecting the monster spillway +and power-house, to which he was carried in a tiny train that was in +readiness alongside the locks when we arrived, the _Calcutta_ was +already entering the lake, while the _Renown_ had surmounted the locks +and was only waiting to take on the Royal party before following in her +wake. + +The route thereafter lay at first through the green water of the lake, +past islands covered with densest jungle. About the middle of the lake, +we passed masses of bare tree-trunks, standing erect in the water, on +either side of the broad track that is kept clear for the passage of +ships. These trees are what remain of a forest that covered the bottom +of the valley before the building of the dam which converted it into a +lake. The trunks, though standing in some seven fathoms of water, still +keep their branches and project many feet above the surface; and have to +be avoided by passing ships. This dismal avenue has kept its place for +ten years. It must have been green once. Like a forest after a great +burning it stands in skeleton and carries no leaf now, a curious +reminder that water can be as pitiless as fire. + +In the afternoon we entered the Culebra cut. Here man has been at grips +with nature in her least amiable mood. The channel becomes a winding +gorge through steep, rugged crags and rounded hills. The stupendous +cutting shows treacherous alternating layers of red gravel, yellow sand, +brown crumpled rock, and soft, slippery blue clay. A number of mammoth +floating steam dredgers were here at work, a fresh slip having occurred +a few days previously. Progress, therefore, had to be of the slowest. A +climax was reached near the end of the cutting, where, at a sharp curve +in the channel, a whole hillside, half a mile each way, had commenced to +move, the débris extending right into the canal, which was also impeded +by a small island, apparently squeezed up from the bottom by the +terrific pressure of the slipping hill. The place looked almost +impossible, the great length of the _Renown_ making the manoeuvring of +her in what remained of the channel one of the trickiest pieces of +navigation imaginable. Naval officers are not easily put off, however, +and by the most delicate handling, the vessel ultimately crawled past +the obstruction. The cheerful little red-roofed township of Pedro Miguel +was reached soon afterwards. Here the entire population had turned out +to see the Prince, the girls in brilliant costumes, amongst which one +might sometimes see the black mantilla of Spain; the men in anything, +from working overalls and slouch hats, to the leisured fashions of New +York. At Pedro Miguel began the slow process of descending to the level +of the Pacific. The first lock dropped us some thirty feet into the +picturesque lake of Miraflores, surrounded by rounded grass-grown hills, +emerald in the setting sun. Two more locks followed at the end of the +lake, and we entered a stretch of water at ocean level, which took us to +the docks at Balboa, upon the Pacific, close to the city of Panama. + +[Illustration: EXCITEMENT GROWS IN AUCKLAND HARBOUR] + +[Illustration: NEW ZEALAND: THE PRIME MINISTER TAKES CHARGE] + +At Panama the Prince had the most friendly and hospitable reception, +banquets and balls succeeding one another on shore, while on the +_Renown_ several ceremonies took place, including the receiving and +replying to addresses from British, West Indian and East Indian +residents. Some of the local cordiality was quaintly worded. + +"In frantic supplication we fling ourselves at the feet of Almighty God +to shower His blessings upon Your Highness." More, it may be imagined, +could not be done. "If we be allowed another paragraph may we then be +permitted, in this final gasp, to express our desire that Your Royal +Highness will greatly enjoy your short visit to this port." It is +understood that the desire of the permitted paragraph and the final gasp +was not denied. + +Another picturesque ceremony was when the Prince drove in procession to +pay a formal visit to the President of Panama. The motor-cars first +traversed the wide American zone of the Canal region, speeding over +smooth, asphalt roads, past well-built verandahed houses, with white +walls and dark-coloured jutting roofs, the windows and doors meshed with +fine wire-gauze, an arrangement which gives them the appearance of +prosperous meat-safes. These houses are part of the wonderful sanitary +arrangements which have turned Panama, from being a yellow-fever camp, +into one of the most healthy regions in the world. They are inhabited by +the engineering, traffic and administrative staffs, and the police and +military establishments of the Canal zone. They stand in spacious +gardens with beautifully-kept lawns and flower-borders, and are supplied +with up-to-date electric-light and fans, good drinking-water, and +perfect installations of sewers. There are also carefully thought out +clubs and institutes, which supply the Canal employees with +entertainment for their spare hours, alcoholic liquor alone excepted, +for the zone is strictly "dry." + +Smart American sentries saluted at the barbed wire boundary, whence the +route wound past conical hills which may well have been the range that +gave to Drake the first white man's view of the Pacific Ocean. +Thereafter the procession plunged into the narrow streets of Panama +city, which were lined with cheering, laughing crowds of gaily dressed +negroes, Mexicans and Spaniards. Bunting fluttered from every window in +the high tiered houses. An escort of picturesque mounted police, with +rough peaked saddles and undocked horses, closed in on either side. +Immense, decorated barouches, drawn by fine pairs of Mexican horses, +were substituted for the Canal zone motor-cars, and the procession +moved on in state, the Prince alighting, _en route_, to inspect a fine +body of about a hundred returned soldiers of the West Indian Regiment +who had assembled in his honour. + +The President and his entire council, in black frock-coats and shining +top-hats, welcomed the party upon the steps of the Presidential House, a +pleasant residence, with garden quadrangle, overlooking the sunny +harbour. The Prince was conducted upstairs to a large reception-room, +hung with yellowing paintings of previous Presidents, where compliments +were exchanged and refreshments offered. Later in the day an official +dinner was given, at which the President proposed the Royal health in +flowing Spanish, mentioning the large number of residents, in the chief +cities of Panama, who are British subjects from the West Indian islands, +and emphasizing the gratitude felt by all Panamanians towards Great +Britain for having taken up the cause of the smaller nations in the +World War. The reference filled several eyes in the company with +conscious rectitude, and they were not all British. + + + + +IV + +SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA + + +In passing the Culebra Cut landslide, in the Panama Canal, one of the +propellers of the _Renown_ touched a submerged rock which had escaped +the notice of the surveyors. When Balboa harbour was reached the ship's +divers went down to see what the damage amounted to; and as poking about +the cruiser's bottom, thirty-three feet below the surface, in muddy +water infested with sharks, is, to say the least, an unpleasant task, it +was characteristic of the ship that one of the first to don diving-dress +and go over the side was the Engineer-Commander himself. The result was +to ascertain that one of the blades of one of the propellers had had a +small piece broken off, but that the damage was so slight that it would +not be necessary to dock the vessel for repair. + +A start was therefore made for San Diego, our next port of call. The +course skirted the mountainous coast of Mexico, which showed mistily on +the starboard horizon. The water was of the smoothest and clearest, and +of tint so blue as to be almost azure. The temperature was tropical, and +we found surprising abundance of sea-life. Yellow turtles, as big as +footballs, with their little pointed heads stuck out to watch us, +floated by in scores. Schools of glistening porpoises leapt in the sun +besides a couple of big, slow-moving, log-like blackfish. You can travel +from London to Bombay and see hardly a creature, but here the sea +teemed. Birds too were plentiful--quantities of duck, white, wheeling +gulls, and black, slender, frigate-birds that sailed past like kites. + +A few days later, in an amethyst sea, off the green slopes of Loma +point, the _Renown_ cast anchor. The houses and towers of San Diego, +seven miles off, across the Harbour of the Sun, glistened pearl-like in +soft morning light, above the golden setting of the Coronada sand. Out +at sea, at dawn that day, six grey, business-like American destroyers +had met the _Renown_ and escorted her in, a score of United States +flying-boats and aeroplanes hovering in well-kept formations overhead. +At the mouth of the harbour was lying that fine battleship the _New +Mexico_, flagship of the United States Pacific Squadron, which fired a +welcoming salute. After the anchor was down, Admiral Williams, acting +Naval Commander-in-Chief in the Pacific, who flew his flag on the _New +Mexico_, visited the Prince. Mayor Wild, of San Diego, and other local +residents also arrived from the shore to pay their respects. + +The morning was taken up with the receiving and returning of these +visits. In the afternoon the Prince landed at the municipal pier in the +heart of the city. Here he found Governor Stephens, of California, at +the head of a large deputation, waiting to welcome him. Every avenue to +the wharf was blocked with motor-cars. Well-dressed crowds pressed upon +the ropes that fenced in a central space reserved for British veterans, +to whom had been given the place of particular honour in the town's +reception of its visitor. The veterans were some hundred and fifty +strong, and gave the Prince the heartiest of cheers. They proved to be +residents of California, about half of them being from San Diego itself. +They had all served in the forces of the British Empire in the Great +War. At their head was General Carruthers, lately Chief-of-the-Staff +with the Australian Expeditionary Force in France. It was a wonderful +spectacle of colour and cheerfulness, as the Prince went down the line, +shaking hands with his old comrades in the field, while mites in +pinafores pushed to the front to present him with bouquets, and pretty +girls in Highland costume sang "God save the King." The crowd broke +through the barriers, before the motor-cars, provided to convey the +party to the Stadium, had been reached, but everybody was in the +friendliest of humours, and did their utmost individually to make space +for the procession to start. The first three or four cars, containing +the Prince, the Governor, the Mayor, and a few of the Staff, eventually +got through. The rest extricated themselves gradually from the press of +people and vehicles, and made their way by more or less devious routes, +the road marked out for the procession having by this time become so +crowded as to be almost impassable. The procession reformed at the +Stadium, a mile or so distant. On the way, prosperous suburbs of +extraordinary attractiveness were passed, the houses often of +Spanish-colonial type, with deep verandas set in spacious gardens and +well-kept lawns, with masses of roses, geraniums, hibiscus, and purple +salt-grass in full bloom. The ground here was high, and one looked down +upon the city, with palm-trees in the foreground, and the harbour and +its shipping in the middle distance, while on the horizon were piled the +rugged mountains of southern California, pink in the evening light. + +The Stadium proved to be a massive open-air amphitheatre of +cream-coloured stone, capable of seating fifty thousand spectators, of +whom some ten thousand were present. Here complimentary addresses were +presented and replied to, the gathering applauding, with equal energy, +the heart-to-heart statement of Mayor Wild that the Prince was a +"regular fellow," and the impressive periods of Governor Stephens, who +dwelt upon the importance of the Royal visit as strengthening the +connexion between the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race. +Another feature of the occasion was the playing of a gigantic open-air +organ, the largest of its kind in the world. The organist sat by the +roadside and the pipes of his instrument pointed unprotected to the sky. +An official dinner and a ball followed later in the day at the big hotel +on Coronada Beach. Innumerable motor and other parties had meanwhile +been organized by individual residents, every one of the thirteen +hundred sailors and marines on the _Renown_ who could in any way be +spared from duty, being given a delightful outing and the kindest and +most hospitable of entertainment. In this way numbers of them were able +to see something of the wonderful country around San Diego, with its +incomparable mountains and valleys, and its hundreds of square miles of +fertile peach-orchards, just then one gorgeous mass of coral blossom. + +San Diego, with its famous bathing beach, its clear air, dry balmy +climate, and seventy thousand prosperous white inhabitants, thus took to +its generous western heart not alone the Prince himself, but also every +British soul aboard the ship by which he travelled. A year before, the +_Renown_ had become acquainted, in New York, with American kindness and +hospitality which seemed, at the time, to be impossible to equal. The +ship now had experience, on the other side of the American continent, of +a similar reception, in every way as warm and spontaneous, accorded too +by people as representative of the western states of the Union as New +York is of the eastern. This inclusion of the battle-cruiser's men was +one of the pleasantest features at almost every port of call upon the +voyage, but it was nowhere more general or more genial than in this +American city of the Far South. + + + + +V + +HONOLULU + + +In warm, moist atmosphere, and the tropical light that glares beneath a +cloudy sky, the _Renown_ dropped anchor in the open roadstead off the +rocky coast of Honolulu. Around the ship were depths of clear, +iridescent blue, with streaks of brilliant green where the water +shallowed inshore. Further on, a line of low, white breakers bounded a +green patchwork of undulating cultivation which sloped upwards, with +occasional ploughed fields of red, volcanic soil, towards a cloud-topped +horizon of mountains in the interior of the island. Immediately +overhead, showing black against the clouds, half-a-dozen flying boats +and aeroplanes rattled a cheery American welcome. The smoke of the +light-cruiser and dozen destroyers which had met the _Renown_ at sea and +escorted her to anchorage, drifted in the heavy air, blurring the cranes +and derricks of the inner harbour. + +Salutes banged off. Flags dipped and rose. Words of command rang through +the battle-cruiser. A guard-of-honour of marines, lined up in white +uniforms on the quarter-deck, came with a clank to attention. The notes +of the United States National Anthem floated out, as the American +Governor and other local authorities came aboard to pay visits of +ceremony to the Prince. It was our second glimpse of Imperial America. +It is just twenty-two years since the United States, after some +preliminary coquetting with Queen Liliuokalani, took up this white man's +burden in the Pacific under the style of a Territory; and her guests, +more familiar with the conception, looked with interest at the fringe of +the experiment. It seemed immensely prosperous and contented. Its +obvious aspects were those of a principal base of America's naval power +and the bourn of an endless tide of tourists, for whom alone the place +might exist with profit. These naturally exposed a social life almost +exclusively American. Hotels, newspapers, warehouses, factories, and +stores were managed by Americans. Only on the beach among the bobbing +craft of the breakers were the island originals conspicuous, at home in +an element they love. Elsewhere they seemed to form a brown undercurrent +of the Hawaiian world, content, in their Polynesian way, with a little +so it was easily come by. They are still, one gathers, much governed and +influenced by the missionaries to whom they owe their Christian faith. +Like the North American Indians they are fast dying out. Like the +Burmese they are content to be supplanted in their own labour market by +others--Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and Filipinos. Doubtless there +are Hawaiian boys at American Universities, Hawaiian professional men, +Hawaiian merchant princes, cultivated Hawaiians who read Bergson and +Bernard Shaw and are the product of a generation of progress; but our +opportunity was too brief to find them. It is hardly surprising that the +Hawaiian was not greatly in evidence, when one was told that there are +but 22,000 of pure race, against 110,000 Japanese for example, 31,000 +Americans and British and 23,000 Chinese, with a considerable Filipino +element, and more than a flavouring of Spanish. + +On a large open space upon the wharf, surrounded by the substantial +stone buildings of a prosperous modern harbour, the Prince landed to +receive his welcome to the island. On one side of the square was an +up-to-date guard-of-honour of United States infantry at attention, every +button gleaming, every uniform stitch identical, with that felicity of +neatness so characteristic of American kit, as His Royal Highness shook +hands with its commanding officer, and walked down the line. On the +other side was a motley gathering of his own fellow-countrymen and +women, residents of the island, who had served with the British Forces +during the war, and had now gathered, in varying costumes much mingled +with khaki bearing many a worn decoration, to do honour to their King's +eldest son, whom they cheered lustily. On the third side of the square +the indigenous element was represented by pleasant, brown-faced young +men in blue uniforms of modern cut, over which they wore brilliant red +and yellow tippets of priceless "Oo" and "Iiwi" feathers, handed down +from days gone by, when they were insignia of Hawaiian royalty. Their +function, on behalf of the remaining representatives of the ancient +dynasty, was to garland the British Prince with "lais," ropes of +close-strung pink carnations and scarlet ilima flowers, bringers of +good-luck, and to present him with a polished brown calibash, the size +of a foot-bath, adze-hewn, a hundred years ago, from hard-wood felled in +the interior, and now filled with a luscious assortment of bananas, +mangoes, loquats, paw-paws, water-lemons, pineapples, bread-fruit, and +crimson mountain-apples, symbols which made him free of the good things +of the island. + +Subsequently the Prince returned the official visits paid to him, and +was introduced to various local institutions. His reception by the +American Governor was in the spacious, many-windowed hall of the Iolani +palace, where an elected assembly of Hawaiian representatives now +prosaically meets in what were once such picturesque places of authority +as the king's bed-chamber and the queen's boudoir. On the walls a number +of mellowing oil-portraits, depicting stout, brown, benevolent monarchs, +uncomfortable but doubtless impressive in the tight fashions of the +Victorian age, mutely testified to the splendours of the past. They +seemed to look down at the function with mingled sorrow and superiority, +as those who could have given an entertainment committee points on such +an occasion as this. + +Famous the world over is the surf-riding of Honolulu's wide Waikiki +beach. To surf-ride with the joy of confidence it is necessary to have +an acute sense of balance; it is even more necessary to be able to swim. +The base of the exercise is a flat surf-board, the shape of a snow-shoe, +with which the rider swims out to meet the approaching breaker. This, +with bewildering agility, he then mounts and strides, and the breaker +carries him poised and dramatic to the beach. The adventure was most +graceful when it succeeded, but it often ended in a considerable tumble +in which the swimmer was lucky to escape a bang upon the head from his +own capsized means of support. + +The Prince was naturally enthusiastic for an initiation, and came off in +the end passing well, to the delight of the heterogeneous crowd that had +assembled in bathing costumes appropriate to the warmth of the occasion +to see him undergo it. Cinematograph men, in swaying surf-boats, made a +valiant effort for pictures alongside the swimmers, but, for once upon +the tour, were handsomely discomfited, for the rollers of the Waikiki +beach are no respecters of public purposes. + +In the evening, H.R.H. was taken to an official ball, given by the +Governor, in the spacious town armoury, where the principal white +residents, now costumed in the garments of civilization, were formally +presented beneath a forest of national flags, amongst which predominated +the Stars and Stripes of the United States and the combined Union Jack +and tricolor of Honolulu. The ball was much as other balls, but it had +an unusual pendant. Before midnight struck the Prince was spirited away +ten miles across the island, through long shadowy aisles of pillared +cabbage-palms, shining ghost-like in dim starlight, beneath dense +foliage of bread-fruit, mango, and coco-nut trees, where sweet-scented +aloes perfumed the warm, still night, and on through grey cuttings in +volcanic rock, to the country-house of Mr. Robert Atkinson, to whom had +occurred the excellent idea of affording him an opportunity of seeing a +real "Hookupu" gathering, now a very rare event amongst the dwindling +race of Hawaiians. Stout, white-robed, brown-faced ladies, bearing the +coloured, feather-tipped sticks of royal state, and chanting the "aloa" +of welcome, lined the path leading to the deep-foliaged "ouhani" tree of +happiness which shaded the front of the bungalow, a self-sown visitant +that every Hawaiian prizes, provided only that it has not been +artificially planted, and that it is not at the back of the residence. +Here, in a large and reckless hole in the well-kept lawn, the entire +carcases of four pigs, quantities of chickens, fish, and sweet potatoes, +wrapped closely in green "ti" leaves, were in process of being roasted +by Hawaiian cooks, the heat being provided by boulders, previously made +red-hot, with which the sides and bottom of the pit had been lined. +Fruit was piled high in golden profusion, upon low, wooden platforms +around which, upon mats on the ground, the Prince and other guests took +their seats. Princess Kawananakoa, a lady of fine figure, in middle +life, dressed in the conventional garments of Bond Street, +representative of the Hawaiian Royal house, was given a place of honour +next to the guest of the occasion. Hawaiian soldiers in yellow robes, +with scarlet head-pieces that might have been patterned on the helmet of +Achilles, and gold-tipped "tabu" staves, the size of broom-sticks, which +represented life-and-death authority under the old régime, took up +stations in the background. Immense flower-garlands were hung round the +visitors' necks and they were served, upon plates of "ti" leaves, with +savoury viands from the still smoking pit. + +Then from gourd-lutes of a weird band of musicians, tinkled out a soft +refrain. Suddenly, from the dim shelter of an aerial-rooted banyan tree, +human voices reinforced the chant, and four Hawaiian damsels, +voluminously clad in flaming yellow feather-mantles, ending in deep +ruffs over the ankles, leapt gracefully upon a mat in front, where they +were joined by two similarly caparisoned and equally agile male partners +with whom they proceeded to dance. The performance was like an Indian +_nautch_ run mad. The heads and busts of the dancers remained almost +stationary, thus forming a fulcrum around which the rest of their +persons seemed to gyrate, with serpentine arms, india-rubber hips, and +racing feet, the dancers, all the time, pouring out doleful melodies to +which the gourd-lutes twanged in solemn harmony. One could almost see, +as the weird notes rose and fell, Polynesian folk, in frail, palm-wood +canoes, blown out to sea by fierce Eastern typhoons, from fisheries on +the far coasts of the Malay, to perish mournfully and alone, in the vast +empty spaces of the Pacific, only an occasional wanderer, through the +centuries, finding refuge in some rare isle, and there building up a +race of mingled blood, whose high cheek-bones, soft tongue, swaying +dances and outrigged boats, speak of a Mongolian origin and an Eastern +home. + +Another expedition, on which the Prince was taken before leaving +Honolulu, was to a grass-grown hill, once the scene of human sacrifice, +where a pageant was being held in honour of the centenary of the arrival +in Honolulu of the Christian missionaries, who have played so important +a part in the history of the island. Here he saw half-naked folk, with +conch-shell trumpets, similar to those in use to-day at festivals at the +mouth of the Ganges, also processions of queer idol images that would +not have jarred the decorative scheme of a Durga-Puja celebration in +Hindustan. Scenes were here enacted, in which shapely brown maidens, +clad in ancient, indigenous paper garments, reminiscent of Japan, took +part. European missionaries, some of them lineal descendants of those +who landed in Honolulu from the brig _Thaddeus_ in 1820, also appeared +in the garments of their predecessors of a hundred years ago. One of the +incidents depicted was the historical breaking up and burning of the +island idols in the days of Queen Kaahumanu, widow of King Kamshamcha, +"the lonely one." There was a tense moment in the audience when the +first image had to be flung upon the ground, for superstition dies hard +even after a century's banning; but the image was flung and went into +fifty pieces, at the feet of civilization. Christianity is now the only +religion actively practised in the island, but the Hawaiian prefers to +be on the safe side in case the old powers of darkness should not be +altogether dead. He is not a whole-hearted iconoclast. + + + + +VI + +NEPTUNE BOARDS THE _RENOWN_ + + +The relations between the Royal Navy and H.M. King Neptune are known to +partake of the spirit of compromise which so happily characterizes the +British Empire elsewhere. Neptune permits the suzerainty but demands a +certain ceremonial which acknowledges his ancient rights. The function +has a date and a determination and is observed by all King George's +vessels on crossing the Equatorial line. It is in the nature of an +initiation and lends itself to gruesome and alarmist description. For +days before the _Renown_ reached the specified spot our feelings were +harrowed and our dreams disturbed by foretellings of the unescapable +ordeal of all novices. There was no immunity in being a passenger, even +in being the Chief Passenger. Neptune was not aware of passengers. The +wardroom was horrid with boding. Mercifully we were preserved from the +imagination of the snotties. + +The Royal Navy does nothing by half. Elaborate preparations were made +long in advance. Active brains in Wardroom, Gunroom, Warrant Officers', +Petty Officers', Engineers' and Stokers' messes and in the lower deck, +found a morning and an evening occupation inventing rhymed patter, +designing and making the weirdest of costumes, in which oakum, canvas, +ship's-paint, and stove-soot all largely figured. An extensive stage was +erected on the forecastle with a sail forty feet long, containing four +feet of sea water, convenient for the "baptizing" of all those on the +ship, of whom there must have been at least five hundred, who had not +previously crossed the line. Wooden razors the size of cutlasses, +barrels of lather made of coloured flour and water, whitewash brushes +for applying the same to the countenance were provided, also a +gauge-glass for a clinical thermometer, a cutlass for a lancet, and +quantities of dough-pills, the size of marbles, well flavoured with +bitter quinine, for physicking the victim before his ablution. + +The Prince himself was one of the most active of the conspirators. To an +inquiry sent "up top" (i.e. to the Prince's quarters) a reply signed by +Captain Dudley North, R.N., was received by the "Father of the ship" +(i.e. the Commander), upon whose broad shoulders falls responsibility of +every kind. + +It ran: + + "His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has not yet crossed the + Line. I am desired by H.R.H. to say that he is looking forward with + interest to his meeting with His Majesty King Neptune and + Amphitrite, his wife, and also to his initiation as a Freeman of + His Majesty's domains. + + The following members of the staff have crossed the Line, and are + entitled to wear the various classes of the Order of the Bath + bestowed on them by His Majesty:-- + + Rear-Admiral Sir Lionel Halsey has crossed the Line on upwards of + 200 occasions; in fact, for some time this officer is understood to + have supported himself on it. It is understood that he has been + strongly recommended for the order of the 'Old Sea Dog.' + + Captain Dudley North has crossed the Line nine times, and has been + personally decorated by His Majesty. + + Lieut.-Colonel Grigg and Lord Claud Hamilton have already crossed + the Line--the former twice, the latter four times. These officers + have, however, stated that owing possibly to some special favour, + or else to some serious preoccupation on the part of His Majesty, + they were not privileged to undergo the full ceremony of + initiation. They are all the more anxious, therefore, on this + account, to pay every respect to His Majesty, and not to presume on + his former graciousness. In expressing their humble duty to His + Majesty they await, with great humility, the verdict of his most + excellent Court as to whether they will be required to be initiated + or not. + + The following members of H.R.H.'s staff have not yet crossed the + Line or had the honour of an audience with His Majesty:-- + + Sir Godfrey Thomas, Bart. Captain the Hon. Piers Leigh. The Bears + will, no doubt, attend to these gentlemen." + +Each novice upon the ship meanwhile received a notice summoning him to +present himself at noon on the 10th April: + + "Before our Court, at the Equator, in order that we may confer upon + you the Freedom of the Seas, and our permission to enter the other + hemisphere." + +The proceedings began after dinner over-night when the Prince and his +staff accompanied the Captain to the Bridge. The lights were turned off +and in the darkness one could feel the presence of the entire ship's +company crowded upon every vantage point. + +Out of the blackness from in front came the shout + +"Ship-ahoy!" + +with the Captain's deep + +"Aye, Aye," + +in reply, as searchlights swept the sea. + +_Neptune_: "What ship are you?" + +_Captain_: "His Britannic Majesty's Battle-Cruiser _Renown_." + +_Neptune_: "I wish to come on board." + +_Captain_ (to Officer of Watch): "Stop both." (To Neptune, shouting). +"My engines are stopped. I am sending an officer to conduct Your Majesty +to my Bridge." + +Rockets went up, and in a falling shower of sparks a procession of +strange figures climbed into the ship from over the side. Neptune, +Amphitrite, judge, barber, and doctor, with attendant imps, bears, and +policemen were there in the most realistic of scales, fins, mermaids' +hair and ursine fur. They carried brobdingnagian batons, razors, shaving +brushes and trident. Their appearance was terrific. + +The party was escorted with much formality to the Bridge, where Neptune +and Amphitrite were presented to the Prince and drinks were stood to +Their Majesties and the Court party, neither were there any heel-taps. +_Pourparlers_ were exchanged in ceremonial verse, Captain Taylor making +the following frank explanation: + + "Our business is to take a Royal Prince + To see a portion of our Empire's land. + The Prince of Wales, he is our passenger + Who hopes to meet your Bears and clasp your hand." + +It seemed impossible for the spirits of the deep to communicate in +anything less metrical than this, and Neptune acknowledged his reception +and announced his intention to hold an Investiture as well as a few +other things, the following day, in the same fashion. + +Next morning the circumstance was even more elaborate. Proceedings began +upon the quarter-deck, where the "Companionship of the Royal Order of +the Equatorial Bath" was solemnly conferred upon the Prince, and a +"Knight Commandership of the Ancient Order of the Old Sea Dog" upon +Admiral Halsey. H.R.H. responded in lyrical strains which concluded:-- + + "I know I'm for it, King; so, boys, + Don't let me keep the party waiting"-- + +a touch of _panache_ that was duly applauded. The Court-Martial of two +selected prisoners came next to a roar from Neptune: + + "And if they drown I do not care a fig. + Arrest Mountbatten and the Man called Grigg!" + +For the moment these unhappy persons were roped and bound, while the +Investiture went forward. Captain Dudley North was made a Knight +Commander of the Aged Cod in these terms: + + "Dudley dear, I'm pleased to meet you + Once again. Now let me treat you + To the old established Order of the Very Ancient Cod. + Its privilege is this, + That you may daily kiss + The most beauteous of my mermaids if you catch her on the nod." + +A move was finally made to the forecastle where was duly performed the +physicking, shaving and ducking of the novices, beginning with the +Prince and members of his staff and going down to the youngest seamen on +the lower deck. The novices were marched up and seated, one after +another, in the barber's chair, where a pill was squeezed into each +one's mouth, despite the most lively struggles; the lather was laid on, +a rough scrape with the wooden razor followed, the chair was upset and +the now seasoned novice was sent head over heels into the swimming bath, +where the Bears ducked him handsomely to the cheerful rhyme: + + "Shave him and bash him, + Duck him and splash him, + Torture and smash him, + And don't let him go!" + +The Prince underwent a full share of the horse-play; and that he took a +"three-times-three ducking" with the best, was the opinion of every one +of the thirteen hundred sailor-men who looked on, and would have been +candour itself if the ritual had been in any way reduced or evaded. + +It was a spectacle impossible to imagine anywhere but in the British +Navy, and helped hilariously to relieve the monotony of the voyage. The +cost of the material employed was probably less than a hundred +shillings. The labour and artistry voluntarily bestowed by the ship's +Company to make it what it was, cost nothing at all; the preparations, +from the elaborate embroidering of Amphitrite's scales and the careful +scenting of her golden hair, to the fine turning and engraving of the +Insignia of the Equatorial Order of the Royal Bath, were all the work of +off-duty hours when the sailor ordinarily would have been asleep. We are +but children of a larger growth and happy are the traditions that keep +us so in His Majesty's Navy. + + + + +VII + +FIJI + + +Fiji was the next place of call. Warm rain drove blusterously into our +faces, while dense grey mist enveloped the land and shut out the sun, as +the _Renown_ felt her way between wreck-strewn barrier reefs, over which +the surf was breaking heavily, and dropped anchor, to the tick of the +appointed time, in the sheltered water of Suva Bay. As the ship cleared +the harbour entrance, a fleet of sailing craft, including a number of +decked, outrigged war-canoes, with pear-shaped mat-sails and half-naked +crews, tore dipping through the waves to escort her in. These war-canoes +tacked, in the stiff breeze, by a simple expedient. The sail was +reversed. The rudder, a big movable oar, was then carried from one end +of the canoe to the other, so that what had just been the prow became +the stern, the floating log, that served as outrigger, remaining always +to windward--apparently an attempt at realizing the historic account of +the bow-sprit that "got mixed with the rudder sometimes." + +The little craft were identical with those that Tasman may have seen +when his brig cast anchor off these islands three hundred and seventy +years ago. But everything else has changed. Generations of Wesleyan +missionaries have transformed snake-worship into universal Christianity. +Sixty thousand coolies from India have rendered it possible for the +sugar-cane to replace unproductive forest. The ninety thousand +fuzzy-headed Fijians who have survived successive epidemics of measles +and influenza have given up the savoury heresies of roast long pig and +have taken on trousers, education, and wealth. The substantial +maroon-coloured roofs of their dwellings upon the shore, which emerged +from a tumbled background of cloud-topped mountain when the mist lifted, +were indicative of the prosperity and civilization which have been +steadily growing in the forty-six years since the British Government +took over the administration from King Thakombau. + +Sir Cecil Rodwell, High Commissioner of the Western Pacific, and Mr. +Scott, Mayor of Suva, representatives of the present system of rule, +came out by launch to the _Renown_, to pay their respects as soon as the +anchor was down. There was no official landing till the following +morning, when in hot sunshine alternating with warm, driving rain the +Prince went ashore at Suva. The entire population of the town, a place +of some six thousand inhabitants, was there to welcome him. In front, +the principal European residents, with a contingent of leading Fijian +chiefs, and representatives of the large Indian community, all in +western dress, were lined up to be presented. Behind stood a +well-drilled guard-of-honour of Fijians, in khaki, with heads protected +from the fierce rays of the sun by hair that might be the despair and +envy of the boulevards, twelve inches _en brosse_, and of a ferocity! +Further on were a number of European returned soldiers, with hospital +nurses, and other war workers, also returned members of a Fijian labour +corps which had done good service in France and Italy. The whole +assemblage was surrounded by a polyglot crowd of Islanders and Indians +in all the picturesqueness of Polynesian and Oriental garb. Municipal, +Fijian, Indian, and missionary addresses were afterwards presented, and +inspections, investitures, and receptions held, a state dinner and a +ball being amongst the functions provided. + +Fijian national ceremonies took place in the afternoon, the principal +being the solemn presentation by the chiefs and headmen of "tahua" (the +whale's tooth) in token of fealty. This was celebrated, immediately +after heavy rain, on a meadow crowded with aborigines. The actors were +half a hundred well-fed, semi-naked Fijians, clad in nothing but sooty +face-paint, white cloth bustles, and loin-robes of green, pink, and +white fibre-ribbons. The general effect produced was that of an animated +contingent of frilled ham-bones that waved, leapt, swayed and chanted, +sometimes upright, sometimes squatting upon the sodden turf, a scene of +almost disconcerting gaiety. The whale teeth were handed to the Prince +by a white-robed hereditary courtier, and were the size and shape of +yellow cucumbers, strung together with coloured thread. The acceptance +produced a chorus of deep resonant grunts of "Daweha"--"It is taken." +There followed the no less solemn ceremony of preparing and drinking the +"Kava," the produce of the Yaqona root, to cement the bonds of +friendship. The emptying of the last coco-nut cup of this +sharp-flavoured, cloudy liquid was greeted with loud cries of +"Mada"--"It is dry." + +The yaqona root, from a twig or two of which the kava drink was brewed, +might have been an enormous ash-tree stool, with partly-grown +ground-shoots, uprooted from an English copse. The stripping of the +bark, the pounding it with stones, the macerating it with water in a big +carved wooden bowl, and its presentation to the Prince and other guests +in coco-nut shells, was performed with solemn chanting. The ceremony +included the stretching of a coco-nut fibre string, strung at intervals +of a few feet with cowrie-shells, in token of Royal authority, between +the Prince's chair and the men preparing the kava. To cross this string, +in days gone by, while the proceedings were in progress, would have +involved nothing less than to be clubbed to death. Those were doubtless +days when such functions were less chronicled and more respected. + +Timed clapping, which sounded like the thuds of successive buckets of +water thrown from an upper window upon the pavement, completed the first +part of the performance. A "meke"--dance--by three hundred gorgeously +caparisoned Fijian warriors, wielding each an ancient battle-axe, which +followed, was a marvel of well-timed movement. The muddy ground shook as +the men stamped in unison, their bodies swaying in perfect rhythm as +they acted the spirited paddling of canoes, the hauling at ropes, the +pointing at the enemy, the leaping from the boat to the attack, and, +after the fight was over, the sad breaking of the waves upon the shore. +Their deep "Dua-ho," or grunt of welcome to the Prince, might have been +the roll of many drums. + +The final stage in the performance came with the marching up of some +hundreds of white-garbed bearers, each carrying a locally woven mat. +These mats, some of them of a texture that challenged the fineness of a +Panama straw hat, were deposited upon the ground in front of the Prince +in a heap that grew to the dimensions of a small haystack before the +last had been laid upon it, and this, although special steps had been +taken to reduce the number of the offerings by restricting the issue of +permissions to contribute. + +The size of the haystack indicated the prosperity, as well as the +loyalty, of the Fijian chiefs, who still own much of the land in the +islands. The rule of these hereditary potentates dates through centuries +prior to the advent of the missionaries and the taking on of +civilization. Their dislike of live intruders, combined with their +appreciation of them dead and roasted, kept their own Papuan stock +remarkably pure-blooded. The race to-day thus presents characteristics +of its own not found in other Pacific island groups. The only other +outside races, in addition to a few thousands of Europeans, now found in +Fiji, are coolies, of mixed descent, from India. These coolies were +originally imported under a system of indenture requiring them to work +for a definite number of years for planter masters. They have been the +means of developing sugar and copra industries which would not otherwise +have been established upon anything like their present scale. Of late +years the indenture system has been discontinued, and some trouble has +arisen in connexion with the question of wage-rates, riots having +occurred in which several lives were lost. The gradual appreciation of +the possibilities of peaceful bargaining, however, combined with the +enlightened efforts of the present administration to understand +grievances and to remedy them, is reducing the unrest, which is, in some +ways, a healthy one, since it connotes conditions of prosperity +enabling the coolie to assert claims he was not previously strong enough +to press. + +The rich soil of the islands, and the equitable climate, which is much +like that of the rice-growing districts of the south of India, promise +enhanced prosperity as the years go by, Fiji being a locality especially +suitable for the Indian immigrant. It is a place that, during the war, +sent a remarkably large proportion of its manhood to fight for the +allies, those who remained at home also keeping up their end with +spirit. The visitor is told a story, which has the virtue of being +authentic, of an occasion when Suva was without any naval protection. +Its wireless installation picked up signals sent out by the German +raider _Scharnhorst_, showing that this vessel was on its way to attack +the place. Sir Bickham Scott, at that time High Commissioner, rose to +the situation and sent a message into the air for the _Scharnhorst_ to +pick up. It was addressed to Admiral Patey, aboard H.M.S. _Australia_, +the only allied warship which, as the commander of the _Scharnhorst_ +knew, might conceivably have been within call. It ran: "Thanks for your +message. Will expect you in the morning." The _Scharnhorst_ presumably +read this and pondered, for Fiji was left alone. + + + + +VIII + +AUCKLAND + + +A still, sun-filled autumn morning, with crisp sharp air that made it a +pleasure to be alive, on wide, sheltered mother-of-pearl waters, bounded +by grassy hills, with frequent hummocks and white gleaming cliffs, +greeted the _Renown_ as she neared New Zealand on the morning of the +24th of April, 1920. Dotted over the hills, like sheep at grazing, were +numerous red-roofed country houses, which developed pleasant gardens +with green fields between as the distance decreased. Out of shadowy bays +and inlets crept motor-boats in ones and twos and threes, the numbers +growing as township and village each contributed its quota, so that, by +the time the _Renown_ was amongst them, there had assembled a fleet of +very considerable dimensions decorated with flags and filled with +cheerful men, women and children, soldiers in khaki, wounded in hospital +blue, pretty girls in smart frocks, all clapping, cheering, and laughing +in the most inspiring welcome imaginable. + +The Prince climbed to his look-out above the bridge, and waved back a +cheery acknowledgment. Bands struck up in half a dozen of the boats. +Flags leapt up like wind-swept flowers in a herbaceous harbour. The +hubbub grew. Numbers of sailing yachts joined the assemblage. Rowing +boats chipped in, and, by the time the first harbour buoy was reached, +the _Renown_ was sliding along with some hundreds of small craft racing +beside her, in imminent danger of collision alike with her and with one +another. The last headland turned, Auckland itself came into view, a +red-and-white city climbing up the sides of a beautiful, sheltered cove, +with clear, deep water in front, and a green, conical extinct volcano +behind. Coloured bunting fluttered from the rigging of all the vessels +in port, and long vistas of greenery and flags led up the volcano from +the water's edge. One caught glimpses of wide wharves, black with +clustering crowds, and of dark masses of people on the slopes of +Rangitoto, all on the look-out for the arrival of the Prince from Mother +England. + +We had arrived at the first of the island continents which had drawn us +all, battle-cruiser, Prince and passengers, half-way round the world. +The ports of call behind us faded into instructive entertainments by the +way. Here was another home of the race, another place in the sun where +the breed throve and multiplied, and developed, under conditions fresh +and far from the source, the man and womanhood we are proud to call +British. + +Auckland was an appropriate starting point for the Royal tour. The city +was the capital of the Dominion until 1865 and now has over a hundred +thousand inhabitants. It was founded in 1840 by Captain Hobson, R.N., +when he added New Zealand to the Empire, the British Government having +characteristically disavowed the action of Captain Cook who set up the +Union Jack in 1779. The place had its godfather in Lord Auckland, the +most distinguished First Lord of the Admiralty in Hobson's time, and +thus a suitable sponser for the second city of a Dominion which owes its +being to the Empire's sea-power. Auckland now has a fine harbour and a +shipping trade of 2-1/2 million tons per annum. It is a place to which +the prosperous sheep farmer looks forward to retiring, as it has +educational opportunities, social amenities, and one of the most genial +climates in the whole Dominion. + +The _Renown_ was brought alongside one of the wharves, on which black +top-hats and brilliant uniforms guided the eye to groups which proved to +include the Prime Minister of the country, the Leader of the Opposition, +the members of the Cabinet, the General Officer Commanding, the Mayor of +Auckland, and the President of the Harbour Board. Thus New Zealand +waited to greet the Prince. + +At the appointed moment the Governor-General drove up in a motor-car. +The ship was dressed. Bands played, guards on the quarter-deck presented +arms, His Excellency was duly conducted aboard, where the Prince as duly +received him. Later on, with more saluting, a full brass band for the +Governor, and bos'n's whistling for the Prince, the Royal party went +ashore, and New Zealand welcomed her future King. It was a little bit of +England that had gone on board to make a call of ceremony. It was the +whole of New Zealand, heart and hand, that took charge of His Royal +Highness ashore. + +Out of a multitude of motors the procession to Government House was +formed. The cars proceeded through wide, well-built streets of stone +business houses, smothered in wreaths and flags. Crowds of cheering +people lined the pavement. Upstanding soldiers and cadets in smart khaki +uniforms kept the roadway. The Prince, by now, was standing on the seat +of his motor-car, waving greetings to the crowds, who responded +vociferously. Two equerries, on the front seats, clung to his coat-tail +to prevent his falling out of the vehicle. The Governor-General sat back +with a smiling face alongside. The route led through the city, and out +amongst solid residential houses, standing in gardens brilliant with +variegated chrysanthemums, flaming red salvias, purple bougainvilleas, +and the greenest of shaven lawns, with cedars and palms together +spreading the shade of the north and the south. + +Old Government House, which still serves an Excellency from Wellington +on tour, where the Dominion's address was read by the Hon. Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, with his Cabinet standing by, is a spacious, Georgian +building surrounded by an old-world garden of lawns, shrubs and flowers. +It has a homely charm and beautiful views; it made one think of Surrey, +and must have been left with regret when New Zealand changed her +capital. Thence the route led back through the city to the Town Hall, +which was packed to its utmost capacity with well-dressed people who +gave the Prince a rousing reception. Here more addresses were presented, +and an informal levée was held, everybody present filing past. Large +crowds, meanwhile, waited patiently outside for his reappearance. + +Later in the day the Prince was taken to the Domain cricket-ground, +where he reviewed five thousand returned soldiers and cadets and again +received an ovation. This cricket-ground is at the bottom of a shallow +valley, grassy hills forming a natural amphitheatre. Looked at from the +central stand while the review was in progress, the slopes of the +amphitheatre were as if covered with a fine Persian carpet, so thick was +the crowd upon the ground. It was a carpet that had frequent spasms of +agitation, the cheering and hat-slinging, whenever the Prince came near +to it, being exceedingly lively. H.R.H. first went down the lines of the +troops and had a friendly word for every officer and a number of the +men. Later on every man who had been wounded or disabled was presented +to him individually, the Prince going round to search them out himself. +When this had been completed he presented war decorations to those who +had won them at the front. It was nearly dark by the time the last hand +had been shaken and the last word said. The cheering, when it was over, +was something to remember. + +The following day was Anzac Sunday, and was taken up with religious +war-services, H.R.H. attending those at St. Mary's Cathedral in the +morning, and at the Town Hall in the afternoon. The Town Hall service +was especially impressive. The Prince, slender in the world-familiar +khaki, stood in the crowded gathering, and as the Dead March was played, +and the Last Post sounded in memory of sons who had fallen, the people +knew him the Empire's symbol of their sacrifice. Perhaps there, where +the women sobbed to see him, he touched the supreme height of his +mission. + +The cricket-ground, on the following day, was again the scene of an +enormous gathering. Eight thousand children were here assembled and +went through pretty evolutions and drill. In the terminal figure some +two thousand little girls, attired respectively in red, white and blue +frocks, so grouped themselves as to form, first the word "Welcome," and +afterwards the Union Jack, which waved and rustled as the children bent +and swayed to time given by a mite mounted on an eight-foot stool in +front. The crowd which surrounded the enclosure, on this occasion, was +estimated at thirty thousand. + +From Auckland the Prince went south on a train, every part of which, +from the engine to the brake-van, had been built in New Zealand +workshops. + +The first thing one realizes starting for anywhere in New Zealand is the +thing that has been a geography wonder since the age of nine, the queer +inversion of the climate. The experience is curious, notwithstanding all +one's submission to the fact since that time, so potent a governor of +associations is a little word. We had arrived at the North Island, where +the climate was warm and sunny like that of Italy. People coming with +more permanent intentions had a way of settling in the South Island to +be under home conditions of temperature, many of them gradually moving +across the Strait to the North Island in pursuit of balmier airs. We saw +the late autumn apples of April here and there ungathered on the trees +about Auckland, and were grateful to escape the imaginative dislocation +of a midsummer Christmas, with sunstroke as the punishment of +over-indulgence. It would be interesting to know in what period of +residence New Zealand undertakes to change one's dreams. + +A green, rolling land, homely turnip fields, orchards, pasture +containing fine cattle and sheep, pleasant, red-roofed farm-houses, +comfortable country residences, and thriving market towns at frequent +intervals, sped past the train. At Ngaruawahia, two thousand +brown-faced, high-cheekboned Maoris, in European dress, greeted the +Prince from outside the railway fence, men, women and children, hand in +hand, repeatedly bowing to the ground, to slow rhythmic soft-voiced +singing, as the train steamed by. At the same time, a dozen pretty Maori +girls, in flowing white frocks, bare feet, and raven masses of waving +fillet-bound hair, swayed, undulated and step-danced upon a mat upon the +side of the track. These folk were Maori, as often as not, by courtesy +rather than by strict racial description. Few pure-bred Maoris indeed +are now to be found in New Zealand, and it is said that the mixture of +brown and white is here more successful than anywhere else in the world. +At all events one received the impression of a people plastic to the +print of a new civilization, and developing happily in it. + +At Hamilton, a town of ten thousand inhabitants, more formal ceremonies +were gone through. The whole place was decorated. The people assembled +in the streets, where they cheered most vigorously. Several hundred +returned soldiers, and a very large number of children, stood in lines +upon the racecourse where they were inspected by the Prince. Several +addresses of welcome were read, that from the local municipality being +presented by Mayor Watt, a prominent Hamilton solicitor and a man of +much influence, also of dramatic instinct it appeared, since he +discarded for this occasion the chains and ermine of his official garb, +in favour of the private's uniform he had worn at the front. + +A few stations further on, five hundred children were upon the platform, +singing "God Bless the Prince of Wales," as the train went past. They +had come in from a neighbouring mining-camp to catch a glimpse of the +Royal visitor, who waved to them from his carriage. The flourishing +coal-mining centre of Huntley, where a valuable brown lignite, capable +of being coked, is being raised in large quantities from shafts, some of +which are only three hundred feet deep, was also passed, the inhabitants +assembling along the railway line and cheering as the train went +through. A large experimental farm, where the secret of converting +barren land into fruitful by means of basic slag has been discovered; +cold storage factories where incredible masses of New Zealand mutton are +being preserved for export; and extensive works where pumice, here found +in the scoria of long-extinct volcanoes, is turned into material for the +insulating of boilers, passed in procession before the train. We saw +also peat-swamps, in process of profitable reclamation by means of +drainage, in the valley of the wide Waikato stream. + +Presently a second engine was attached to the train, which now crept +slowly upwards, through a tangled wilderness of dense-forested gorge and +mountain canyon, the scenery being of the wildest. The imported spruce, +oak, willow, and ash of the more settled region gave place to feathery +green _punga_ tree-ferns, and stiff brown _tawa_ of indigenous growth. +Clearings were seen at intervals where cultivation struggled with the +grey, bushy _manuka_ scrub; well-kept fields, in the hands of white +settlers, alternating with unkempt jungle, where the easy-going communal +_hapu_ tenure of Maori ownership is still in force. + +Suddenly, the scenery opened up, and we saw, in the soft rays of the +setting sun, a wide panorama of blue lake, and olive-green headland, +round the dark, conical Mokoia island, famous in Maori tradition as the +trysting-place to which Princess Hinomaa and her lover Tutanekai swam +across the lake. Here, almost in the shadow of the Tarawera volcano, +which blew up with terrific results to the countryside thirty years ago, +we found the pleasant little station of Rotorua, where an address was +presented and the Prince shook hands with a long line of returned Maori +soldiers. + +Visits to the wonderful spouting geysers of this famous neighbourhood, +with Maori receptions and national dances, occupied the next two days, +some of the party also taking advantage of the holiday to catch a number +of very fine lake-trout, creatures which have thriven and multiplied +amazingly since their importation from Great Britain a few years ago. +The Maori dances are a thing by themselves. They are performed by +warriors and maidens in phalanxes. The men, often stout and sometimes +elderly, who in ordinary life may be lawyers, landlords, doctors, or +retail dealers, put patches of black paint on their faces, array +themselves in tassellated _pui-pui_ mat loin-clothes and arm themselves +with slender feather-tufted spears. Then, bare-footed, bare-legged, +bare-backed, and bare-headed, they line up in battalions, and leap and +stamp, stick their tongues out, grimace, slap their knees, emit volleys +of sharp barking shouts, and thrust and swing their spears, in wonderful +time to the music of full string bands. The ladies, many of them +good-looking, with melting brown eyes, well-developed figures, and +graceful carriage, are more restrained in their performances. They are +bare-headed, with long waving hair down their backs, kept in place by a +coloured ribbon round the forehead. They may be dressed in voluminous +brown cloaks of soft _kiwi_ feathers, or in loose, embroidered draperies +of every colour, their feet and ankles, sometimes bare, sometimes +encased in high-heeled American shoes and black lace stockings. They +stand or sit in long lines, singing the softest of crooning songs, the +while swaying, posturing, undulating, or step-dancing in perfect unison, +to represent the movement of paddling, spinning, weaving, swimming, or +setting sail. At the same time they swing white _poi_-balls, the size of +oranges, attached to strings, which form in their swift gyrations gauzy +circles of light around each hand, a charming performance worthy of +Leicester Square. + +In the case of Rotorua ceremonies, performances took place, first on the +lake shore, on ground which emitted clouds of steam in the very face of +the dancers, and afterwards, on a much larger scale, on a wide grassy +plain adjoining, where six thousand Maoris, brought from all parts of +New Zealand, the South Island as well as the North, were encamped in +military bell-tents, a legacy of the war. Here, battalion after +battalion, first of men, then of girls, and finally of the two combined, +performed in quick succession, at least a thousand dancers taking part, +while ten thousand spectators, about half of whom may have been Maoris +or half-castes, and the balance Europeans, looked on and applauded. Here +I suppose if anywhere we saw the pure-blooded Maori, though it seems a +distinction with little difference. Unlike most Orientals, the children +of mixed ancestry continue the traditions of the pure-breeds, put on +their clothes, speak their language and boast their ancestry. One of the +most striking of the figures was where the warriors stole out between +ranks of dancing maidens, to take an enemy unawares, who was supposed to +have been beguiled into believing that he had only women to deal with. +Sir James Carrol and the Hon. Mr. A. T. Ngata, both Maori members of the +New Zealand Parliament, and both distinguished speakers, took a +prominent part in the ceremonies. + +The address presented to the Prince by these loyal and attractive people +was characteristically picturesque. It was read, first in English, and +afterwards in Maori, by one of the chiefs, an elderly gentleman of +reverend appearance in fine Kiwi robe, who spoke in a pleasant, +resonant, well-rounded voice. "You bring with you," he said, "memories +of our beloved dead. They live again who strove with you on the fields +of TU in many lands beyond seas. Your presence there endeared you to the +hearts of our warriors. Your brief sojourn here will soften the sorrows +of those whose dear ones have followed the setting sun. Royal son of an +illustrious line, king that is to be, we are proud that you should carry +on the traditions of your race and house. For it is meet that those who +sit on high should turn an equal face to humble as to mighty. Walk, +therefore, among your own people sure of their hearts, fostering therein +the love they bore Queen Victoria and those who came after her. Welcome +and farewell. Return in peace without misgivings, bearing to His Majesty +the King, and to Her Majesty the Queen, the renewal of the oath we swore +to them on this ground a generation ago. The Maori people will be true +till death, and so farewell." + +The history of the Maoris is one long record of chivalry and courage, +and their promise is one they will perform. + + + + +IX + +NORTH ISLAND + + +Among the telegrams which met the Royal train on its way from Auckland +to Rotorua was one of a character which differed from the rest. The +message was addressed to Rt. Hon. William Massey, that embodiment of +notable ability, kindly good sense and unquenchable spirit whom this +Dominion is so fortunate as to have as Prime Minister, who was on the +train. It announced a general railway strike unless certain demands of +drivers and men, some time pending, were agreed to by the Government. It +was in the form of an ultimatum which expired at midnight, an hour which +found the tour at Rotorua. Against the extreme and humiliating public +inconvenience of the moment thus selected must be placed the immediate +offer of the strikers, to complete the schedule of the Royal train, to +take the Prince in fact wherever he wished to go. While the offer was +declined in the main it was accepted as far as a return journey to +Auckland, where the Prince thus spent several unforeseen days while +matters were being adjusted. The time had to be cut out of later +dispositions. It was spent in private engagements, in the much qualified +sense of the word as it applied to any of the Royal arrangements. The +strike was ultimately settled through the efforts of Mr. Massey, who, +being denied the service of the railroad, drove several hundred miles +over sodden mountain roads, in the worst of weather, from Rotorua to +Wellington to discuss the matter with the men's leaders there. The +settlement did much credit to the forbearance of both sides. It did not +go into the merits of the immediate question, which was as to the rate +of compensation to be paid to the men in consideration of the increased +cost of living, but provided a tribunal, on which the strikers and the +railway management should be equally represented, with a co-opted +neutral chairman, to report upon the merits of the demand, and suggest +the best way of doing justice to all concerned. The acceptance of this +sensible arrangement was largely aided by the New Zealand Amalgamated +Society of Railway Servants, this important organization putting +pressure upon the drivers and firemen to return to work while the +tribunal was taking evidence. The incident afforded interesting proof, +not only of the confidence inspired by Mr. Massey himself, but also of +the reasonableness of the attitude of labour in this part of the world. +Industrial discontent is a more manageable thing in a country where the +great majority of the men own their homes and the half-acre that +surrounds them. The struggle for better conditions is sweetened by the +air of gardens, and every operative has the interest in the general +prosperity that comes of a private stake in it. + +The Royal party left Auckland in three railway trains, a pilot, a main, +and an emergency, the Prince and staff travelling in the middle one. The +New Zealand Government was represented by Sir William Fraser, Minister +of the Interior, a Highland Scotchman from the South Island. Official +appointments to accompany the tour were happily made throughout, but +never more than in this instance, where the extraordinary kindliness and +charm of the Minister of the Interior enhanced the great volume of his +experience, to the pleasure and profit of every member of the party. +Another of those present was General Sir Edward Chaytor, commanding the +forces in New Zealand, a soldier whose world reputation has not in any +way interfered with the simplest manner and the most delighted +directness of mind. It was his function to present to the Prince the +military side of New Zealand life, a side which was represented at every +centre visited, alike by surprisingly large numbers of returned soldiers +from the forces which gave such splendid account of themselves in the +great war, and by considerable bodies of smartly turned-out territorials +and cadets. Accompanying General Chaytor was Colonel Sleeman, also a +remarkable personality, to whose initiative is largely due the system of +cadet-training now in force in New Zealand, a system which is doing +wonders in the matter of infusing the best public-school spirit into +previously unkempt national schoolboys and larrikins, teaching them to +play the game, giving them a pride in themselves, and interesting them +in physical culture, and in the duties of citizenship, so that their +parents have become as keen as themselves that they should go through +the courses. Another of the party was Mr. James Hislop, Permanent +Under-Secretary of the Interior, one of the ablest members of that fine +body, the New Zealand civil service, who organized the arrangements of +the tour, and whose irrepressible humour, good fellowship, and infinity +of resource, in disposing of what seemed to most of us an utterly +overwhelming burden of work, were a continual wonder to everybody upon +the train. No less important amongst those outstanding figures of the +New Zealand party, was Mr. R. W. McVilly, General Manager of the +railways of the country, a man who with his predecessor, Mr. E. H. +Hiley, has succeeded in doing in New Zealand what proved impossible, in +England and in the United States. Under their direction the railway +system of the Dominion was carried on throughout the war without break +in management and without making any loss. It did not take travellers +long to discover the affection and respect in which the Director-General +was held, not only by his colleagues, but by all who came in contact +with him. + +The British pressmen with the tour were particularly happy in their New +Zealand newspaper associates. Amongst these gentlemen were Professor Guy +Scholefield, who holds the chair of English Literature at the University +of Dunedin and who knows New Zealand inside and out, from the historic +as well as the modern point of view; and Mr. F. H. Morgan, representing +that business-like organization the New Zealand Press Association, a +practical journalist, a helpful colleague, and one of the best of good +fellows. + +Although the main train journey was only decided upon a few hours before +a start was made from Auckland, all the arrangements worked with +extraordinary smoothness, and the number of people assembled at even the +smallest wayside stations to cheer the Prince was astonishing. At +Frankton, the first stopping-place after leaving Auckland, the gathering +around the station consisted largely of the very railway men who had +just been on strike. Their reception of the Prince had the special +cordiality that carries a hint of apology. One of their number indeed, +acting as spokesman, explained in a speech which could not be considered +inopportune, how much they all regretted having been the cause of delay +to the Royal tour. At Tekuiti, another small station, a more formal +reception took place, in which some five hundred children, collected +from the schools in the neighbourhood, participated with characteristic +fervour. + +Through the night the Royal train traversed the red-pine Waimarino +forest, mounted two thousand feet up the Raurimu spiral, passed the +still smoking summit of the Ngauruhoe volcano, and emerged at daylight +upon the rolling plains of the rich Taranaki dairying country. Here +pastoral land, though still dotted with the blackened stumps of bygone +forest, is worth to-day anything up to one hundred and fifty pounds +sterling per acre. Thence, passing beneath the snow-streaked cone of the +extinct volcano Mount Egmont, the train rolled out upon the open western +coast, and entered the gorse-encircled city of New Plymouth. Here the +Prince was given a picturesque reception beneath spreading _Insignis_ +pines, in a natural grass-covered amphitheatre, of beautiful Pukikura +park. Conducted by General Melville, commanding the district, he +inspected a large gathering of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and +cadets. He also went through the ranks of masses of school-children, who +waved long wands topped with white and red feathery _toi-toi_ grass, and +sang patriotic songs. In the course of a reply, later on, to a civic +address, read by Mr. F. Bellringer, General Manager of the Borough, the +Prince referred to the splendid prospects of the north-west coast, also +to its fine war record, adding: "When I look at the development of this +wonderful dairying country, I am amazed at the enterprise and energy +which have achieved so much in little more than two generations." + +It is indeed amazing. Taranaki does much with butter, sending to such a +competitive country as Canada nearly 12,000 cwts. in 1918, and even more +with cheese, producing a particularly delectable Stilton. There are +fifty-seven butter factories and one hundred and eleven devoted to +cheese. To carve these conditions out of virgin forest in two +generations is a feat that well deserved its recognition. + +The route thereafter lay through a land of spacious, green sheep-downs, +overlooking a blue, sun-lit sea, as idyllic as a pasture of the +Eclogues. On the way, at Stratford, Hawera and Patea, the Prince +received and replied to addresses and inspected gatherings of returned +soldiers, sailors, nurses, and cadets, besides incredible numbers of +fat, red-cheeked children, assembled with their teachers to do him +honour. Speaking at Hawera, the scene of fighting in days gone by, +between _Pakeha_--white strangers--and Maori natives, "Nothing," said +His Royal Highness, "has impressed me more in New Zealand than the +evidence I have found everywhere that Pakeha and Maori are now one +people in devotion to the Dominion, the Empire and the King." + +[Illustration: WELLINGTON: A CANOE IN THE PETONE PAGEANT] + +[Illustration: "THE MAORI PEOPLE WILL BE TRUE TILL DEATH"] + +Proceeding afterwards to Wanganui, a more imposing welcome awaited him, +ten thousand enthusiastic people being found assembled in a big +grass-covered stadium. Here, some of the territorials he inspected +insisted upon drawing his motor-car round the grounds. In the course of +a reply to an address read by the Mayor, the Prince put into words what +was so plain in his actions. "I value," he said, "more than anything the +opportunity this journey gives me of making the acquaintance of the +people of New Zealand, many of whose gallant sons I knew on active +service in the great war." A visit followed to the Wanganui college, a +fine institution where three hundred of the sons of the settlers of the +Dominion are receiving up-to-date education upon British public-school +lines. Later in the evening the Prince attended a concert, also a +democratic supper-party of the heartiest description, held in enormous +marquees, at which three thousand people were present. The Prince and +his staff were served at a table on a raised platform in the middle of +the biggest of the marquees, so that as many people as possible might +see him, a distinction which apparently caused His Royal Highness no +loss of appetite. + +From Wanganui the Prince motored twenty-five miles through undulating +fields of grass, turnips and rape, alternating with patches of yellow +gorse, the last introduced from the old country by sentimental but +ill-advised settlers, and now a most troublesome field-pest, special +legislation having had to be introduced requiring owners of land, under +penalty, to prevent its spreading. Crossing the wooded valleys of the +beautiful Wanganui and Turakina rivers, the Ruahine mountains shining +through the morning mists upon the left, while spacious sheep-farms +sloped seawards upon the right, the Prince reached the township of +Marton, where the usual inspections and addresses took place. Thence +the party started by train to cross the country to the east coast port +of Napier. Receptions were held, _en route_, at the townships of +Feilding and Palmerston-North. In the course of the day the Prince +received a number of presents, including, from Maori chiefs, an ancient +and possibly unique greenstone _mere_ or battle-axe, and a fine +_Wharikiwoka_--a mat-cloak lined with feathers. At Palmerston-North +there was handed into his keeping the shot-torn colours actually carried +by the third British Foot Guards at the battle of Alexandria as along +ago as 1801. These colours had been handed down, from generation to +generation, by New Zealand descendants of Colonel Samuel Dalrymple, who +commanded this distinguished regiment in that engagement. They were +presented to the Prince by Mrs. J. H. Hankins, _née_ Dalrymple. The +colours were said to be the only ones, belonging to a Guards regiment, +hitherto preserved elsewhere than in the British islands. + +Leaving Palmerston-North, the Prince proceeded through the gorge of the +rushing, turgid Manawatu river, alighting at the small wayside station +of Woodville, where a number of the inhabitants had assembled and where +he shook hands with a territorial officer, who, with the gay adventurous +spirit of the Dominion, had taken considerable risks in keeping pace +with the Royal train in a motor-car all the way from Marton, though part +of the route was along an unfenced winding mountain road on the side of +a cliff where the slightest obstruction or miscalculation might have +hurled the car and its occupants into the torrent below. + +From Woodville the Prince went on, through wide grass-covered plains, +dotted with pleasant homesteads, standing amidst thousands of browsing +sheep, along the broad, shallow, shingly reaches of the Waipawa river, +and past sunny apple-orchards, and coppices of oak, poplar and pine, at +times skirting breezy uplands where he saw shepherds and their families, +often from long distances in the interior waiting to cheer the train. + +The arrival at Napier, on the east coast of the island, was late in the +afternoon, in threatening weather. Yet the entire town of twelve +thousand inhabitants seemed to have assembled in the streets, and the +turn-out of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and cadets, at the +beautiful Nelson Park, on the seashore, where a reception was held and +an address presented by the Mayor, Mr. Vigor Brown, was most impressive. +In the course of his reply, in this centre, the Prince once more +referred to the quick coming prosperity of the land he had been +traversing. "It is amazing," he said, "to think that all the homely, +happy country I have seen on my journey here has been cleared, +cultivated and civilized in the life of two generations. The measure of +that splendid achievement is well reflected in this flourishing port and +town." + +The following morning the Prince was early afoot, yet the inhabitants +made a fine showing in the streets, as the procession of motor-cars +passed through to the station, where the Royal train was waiting to +convey the party on the long run southwards to Wellington, the capital. +The weather had cleared in the night and it was a lovely autumn morning +as we skirted the waters of Hawkes Bay, which washed against the steep, +white cliffs of Kidnappers' Island, still the home of thousands of +strong-winged gannets the size of geese. Arrived at Hastings, a solid +market town of ten thousand inhabitants, the Prince was conducted, +through lanes of cheering people, to the racecourse. Here yet another +large gathering of returned men, also territorials, cadets, nurses, and +children, had assembled, and yet another civic address was presented and +replied to. Similar experiences awaited the party at further +stopping-places, including Waipukurau, Dannevirke, Woodville, and +Pahiatua--the "place of God"--the number of the motor-cars, drawn up in +the rear of the crowds, testifying to the prosperity of the farmer-folk, +many of whom had been making fortunes out of the high prices of the +mutton, wool and dairy-produce they raise. At Dannevirke--Dane +Church--the Scandinavian origin of the township was reflected, not only +in the name, but in the faces of whiskered vikings who were to be seen +amongst those who came forward to shake hands with the Prince. They +contrasted quite obviously with the conventional Anglo-Saxons around +them, and recalled in their persons the fact that the settlement of +Dannevirke was originally made by a ship-load of government-aided +immigrants from Schleswig, Holstein. + +After leaving Dannevirke, the Prince took a turn on the foot-plate of +the engine of the train, which he drove at something like fifty miles an +hour to Woodville, where he had halted the day before. At Woodville the +track turned southwards through wilder country, including a certain +amount of still uncleared bush. Even here, however, the land is being +opened up, and I heard of farms changing hands at as much as seventy +pounds per acre. As the afternoon progressed halts were made at various +stations, including Featherston, where the Prince was received by +cheering crowds from a military training camp near by. At dusk the train +skirted the wide Wairarapa--lake of shining water--where wild swans +still breed in some numbers. Here we seemed to have reached the end of +the track, as high hills closed in on either side, and there was no sign +of a tunnel. The big single engine, however, was replaced by three +smaller ones of special make for mountain climbing, one of them being +attached at either end of the train and the third in the middle. A start +was then made up a zigzag track consisting of three rails, the third so +fixed in the middle, between the other two, that pulley wheels beneath +the body of the engines can get a purchase below it, thus completely +wedging the train and preventing its too sudden descent in case of +accident. Slowly then the train crawled up the gradient, which, in +places, is no less than one in fifteen. On the way we passed heavy +timber-fences erected to break the force of the wind, which has been +known so strong, at times on this part of the line, as to overturn a +train. In the darkness we crossed the Rimutaka--ridge of fallen +trees--and slid smoothly down to the other side into the rich Hutt +valley in which Wellington stands. + +A fairy city of lights, outlining spires, roofs and street lines, lay by +reflection in the black water of a broad still harbour, as the train +skirted the low coast of Petone, landing-place of the first white +settlers, eventually passing through extensive suburbs and coming to a +standstill in the station of Wellington. Here the reception was a climax +to the demonstrations along the journey from Auckland. Mayor Luke, +supported by the city councillors, in ermine and gold chains, received +the Prince, as he alighted from the train. Mr. Massey, and other members +of the Dominion Government, were waiting at the entrance. Outside, one +of the smartest captain's guards-of-honour imaginable was standing to +attention, with band and colours. Beyond, restrained by a rope barrier, +an enormous crowd cheered and cheered. The eye travelled over the heads +of the nearer people, and then further away, and there was no thinning +off. One then began to realize that one was looking up a broad street +which climbed a hill, and that the entire hill was a palpitating mass of +shouting humanity, dimly seen in the half-light of the illuminations. + +Eventually the Royal procession got off in motor-cars, which took an +hour to traverse the two miles of decorated route to Government House, +where the Prince was to stay, so dense was the crowd along the route, so +anxious were the people to get near him. There was no bad crushing, +however, and nothing could exceed the good temper of the shouting, +flag-flapping, clapping, laughing men, women and children, who pressed +upon the motor-cars, formed a solid mass to the walls of substantial +business houses on either hand, and crowded every window, balcony and +roof commanding a view from above. + +Similar scenes marked subsequent days of the Prince's visit to +Wellington. Proceeding to Parliament buildings on the morning after he +arrived, the pressure along the route was extraordinary. The town hall, +where addresses were presented, on the way, was filled by all the most +distinguished people of the country. The platform was occupied by the +Members of the Legislature, headed by the Prime Minister, and including +the Leader of the Opposition, the Mayors of the principal cities, and +other representatives from all parts of New Zealand. + +Proposing the Prince's health, at the official luncheon later in the +day, Mr. Massey, speaking in his capacity of Prime Minister, said +everybody in New Zealand took personal happiness and satisfaction in the +magnificent reception the Prince had had at all the centres in the North +Island. "And I want to tell him," he continued, "that his experiences in +the North Island will be repeated in the South." + +One of the expeditions made from Wellington was across the harbour to +Petone, where a well-staged pageant was held representing the landing of +Captain Cook and his fellow adventurers from the barque _Endeavour_ in +1779, also that of the Reverend Samuel Marsden and other missionaries +from the merchant-ship _Tory_ thirty-five years later. Naked warriors in +war-canoes escorted each of the boat processions to the beach, and +painted Maori chiefs received the white strangers hospitably on the +sandy shore. + +The occasion of the pageant was taken with happy appropriateness to +present the Prince with samples of the finished product of the great +industry with which the descendants of the early settlers have endowed +New Zealand. The articles selected were rugs of beautiful softness and +delightful warmth, made of wool grown in the interior, and carded, spun, +dyed, and woven in mills close to the beach where the original +missionaries landed. "A field which the Lord hath blessed" in every +sense of the term. + +Petone is the parent of the capital city of Wellington where the +Governor, Legislative Council and elected House of Representatives +together make up the "General Assembly" which governs New Zealand. + + + + +X + +SOUTH ISLAND + + +The still, crisp, autumn morning of the 22nd of May brought the _Renown_ +into the silver inland sea of Charlotte Sound, with sunny hills sloping +to the water's edge on either side--a great grey bird she looked, +reflected in a jade-framed mirror. Rounding a steep guarding islet, the +big ship anchored in view of the inner harbour, the pleasant little +red-roofed whaling station of Picton climbing up the slope at the +further end, the houses gay with familiar flowers, and homely with +pecking fowls, amenities which one does not associate with the wild work +of the whaler. The industry as a matter of fact has declined from the +status of its early days, though last year the blubber of forty-eight +"humpbacks" was brought into port. + +The entire population--typical British folk of any country town in +England--had assembled and gave the Prince a rousing welcome with the +usual address. From Picton the route was by train through a rich +pastoral plain, past Tuamarina, scene of a long-past tragedy in New +Zealand history, where a misunderstanding resulted in whites being +massacred by their Maori neighbours, one of those lamentable episodes +which the now united Dominion is advisedly engaged in forgetting. + +At Blenheim, a prosperous township, eighteen miles from Picton, which +was the next stopping-place, the train was exchanged for motors, and a +visit was paid to the local racecourse, where the inhabitants of the +town of Blenheim and most of the surrounding country had come together. +Amongst them was a fine gathering of returned sailors, soldiers and +cadets, also some fifty Maoris with painted faces, dressed in +feather-covered mats, who gave one of their grave, shouting, stamping, +grimacing national _hakas_ in honour of the Royal guest. + +From Blenheim the party started on a seventy-mile motor-drive to Nelson, +an expedition enlivened by similar scenes, though the solemn gaieties of +the Maoris did not occur again. The road, which was of macadam in +excellent repair, ran first through the green, open valley of the +Pelorus river, the fields dotted with sheep, with many a row of tall +poplar trees, yellowing in the still autumn air. Wooded hills closed in, +on either side, as the cars progressed, until we found ourselves +speeding along a winding, unfenced shelf on the side of a precipice, +primeval forest covering the sides of the gorge, to which the procession +clung, like a string of flies to a window-pane, as it swung round +corners, often with a wall of rock on one side and a sheer drop of +hundreds of feet upon the other, a few inches of macadamized shelf all +that interposed between the outer wheels and eternity. + +The driver of the Prince's car, a grey-headed Anglo-Saxon, was descended +from men who had driven mail coaches along this road seventy years ago, +when the route was anything but the tourist trip it has become to-day. +The Prince was shown corner after corner where early settlers and their +vehicles had gone over the edge, to be gathered together at the bottom +in an advanced state of disunion. He heard also the oft-told tale of the +Maungatapu highwaymen, white desperadoes, who once made these Rai and +Wangamoa hills their home, until they were rounded up and hanged by +indignant gold-miners and settlers for iniquities which included the +murdering of a wayfarer, after stripping him of his purse, though all +that it contained was a solitary shilling. No allowance seemed to have +been made by his avengers for a certain natural disappointment. From the +Rai and Wangamoa highlands the road led downwards, through a gradually +flattening land of apple-trees, still laden with masses of enormous +yellow and red fruit, past hundreds of acres of bare poles, where hops +had recently been reaped, amongst fields of peach trees set in ordered +ranks, through villages of red-roofed, verandahed wooden houses, where +well-dressed women and extraordinarily chubby and sunburnt children +strewed the chrysanthemums of autumn as the Prince went by. The white +macadam of the country ultimately gave place to the dark asphalt of the +town. Tram-lines appeared in the track, and the procession found itself +amongst hurrahing crowds in Nelson city. + +Nelson is built round a central hill. Driving up the main street, the +Prince was in a lane of people, a waving mass of union jacks extending +up the business street on either side, while in front was a natural +grand-stand surmounted by the Gothic windows of a pink, wooden structure +which rose out of the top of a variegated pyramid and was the +Cathedral. It looked as if balanced upon a hunched-up, gaily-coloured +Paisley shawl. As we approached, the base resolved itself into +school-children in white, soldiers and cadets in khaki, with a phalanx +of returned men in their habit as they lived. A grey stone platform, +with steps leading up to it, was occupied by Nelson's officials, one of +whom read an address of welcome. The remainder of the variegated colour +scheme seen from the bottom of the street was due to the costumes of +ladies who stood so close to one another that no peep of the green +background came through. + +Here the Prince performed the usual ceremonies that awaited him. He +inspected guards-of-honour, clasped the hands of returned soldiers and +pinned on their coats decorations won at the front. He also expressed to +the Mayor and the crowd thanks for the reception and for the loyal +sentiments of the address, which would be communicated to His Majesty +the King, as well as hearty appreciation of the wonders of the country, +and of the good service of its people in the war, with sympathy for +those who had been disabled or had lost friends or relations. He +demanded a whole holiday for the school-children, with the immense +approval of the beneficiaries. The National Anthem was played and +everybody went off to dinner. + +On the following and subsequent days very similar experiences were +encountered. The route from Nelson, after leaving the level country +where more receptions were held at wayside townships, was along the +steep rocky upper gorge of the Buller river, a clear stream which flows +in a series of cascades through a narrow winding cleft in the +mountains. The slope on either side is covered with dense forest of +tree ferns and birches, broken by areas where the undergrowth has been +cut down and fired. Quantities of blackened tree-trunks and half-burnt +logs, upon a carpet of newly sprouted grass, told of the conversion of +the impenetrable primeval forest into productive dairying +fields--grass-seed having only to be scattered broadcast over the ashes +after a shower to bring a quick and copious emerald crop. + +The way grass develops in New Zealand is a continual wonder. The winters +are so mild, and the rainfall so abundant, that growth goes on right +through the year. Maturity comes so rapidly that it is said to be quite +a common thing for the farmer to plough up pasture and re-sow it simply +in order to get rid of weeds, a heavy hay-crop being reaped the very +next season. Large areas of permanent, original pasture were also seen, +especially in the Southern Island--tussock grass, which, as its name +suggests, grows in knobby tufts, but is not on that account to be +despised as fodder, enormous numbers of sheep and cattle growing fat +enough to kill for the market without any other nourishment. Turnips are +raised, to help out the grass in the winter months, but this is only on +a comparatively small scale. The greater part of the stock is entirely +grass-fed. Lambing, calving and milking take place in the open, and +steers go straight to the packing establishments, without previously +seeing the inside of a building of any kind. This accounts for the +profits that are being made out of sheep-farming, stock-raising and +dairying in New Zealand, in spite of the enormous prices paid for land +which, in good districts, is now changing hands at figures ranging up to +£170 per acre. + +The Prince learnt, also, in his long drives through the forest, of the +nature of the timber; of the virtues of the tawny-foliaged _Rimu_, or +red pine, used for the interiors of houses; of the light, easily worked +_Kahikatea_, or white pine, for which such large demand has sprung up in +New Zealand and Australia for making packing-cases for butter, that +fears are felt lest forests, hitherto considered inexhaustible, should +become worked out; also of the _Matai_, or silver pine, which seems to +last for ever, even when exposed on such hard service as that of railway +sleepers, without any creosoting or other artificial protection. + +About noon, the cars emerged upon an open valley, and the Prince was +given a public reception at Murchison, a village of wooden houses, which +were found in holiday array, the decorations including masses of holly +in the fullest Christmas glory of ripe scarlet berries, a curious +contemporary of the orchards, still loaded with unpicked apples, that we +had seen in the Nelson valley only a few hours before. In the Murchison +district alluvial gold-washing still goes on, but it is only a small +survival of what once was a flourishing industry, the yellow metal that +filled the west coast with diggers, fifty years ago, having almost +entirely given out. + +Beyond Murchison, the gorges again contracted. The river became a white +torrent, rushing through a dark, winding channel, hedged with big, grey +rocks, above which rose sage-green, forested mountains. About six in the +evening we emerged on the Inangahua--"mother of whitebait"--tributary. +Here the valley widened out, and we saw a wonderful west-coast sunset. +The mountains took on vivid aquamarine blue and imperial purple, shading +into palest pink, as they faced towards the light or away from it. +Against this background, yellow-frosted poplars and scarlet-leaved wild +cherries stood out in sharpest contrast, the whole, with a pearly sky, +producing an effect of exquisite fantasy. A soft brown owl, fluttering +into our staring faces, recalled the fact that night had come, and that +shelter was still far off. + +The Prince traversed the Inangahua marshes in the dark, reaching the +west-coast township of Reefton late at night. The streets, nevertheless, +were thronged with people. Illuminations and fireworks were in full +swing, and His Royal Highness had a reception in no way inferior to his +daylight greetings elsewhere. At Reefton he was in Westland of the warm +heart, the Wales of New Zealand, a land of collieries, lumbering, +gold-mining, and fishing, home of the late Richard Seddon, whose +eloquence did so much, in the long years of his Prime Ministership, to +bind New Zealand in that close alliance with Great Britain which bore +such gallant fruit when the great call came. + +With Reefton I should class Inangahua, Greymouth, Westport, and last, +but most important of them all, Hokitika, head-quarters of the province, +which is represented in the New Zealand Government by Mr. Thomas Seddon, +son of the late Prime Minister, and one of the first members of +Parliament to volunteer for active service when the war began. In all of +these centres the Prince was most warmly received, Hokitika particularly +distinguishing itself by the size of its gatherings, and the good taste +bestowed on the decorations of its streets. + +The Prince's journey from Reefton to Westport was by motor through the +lower gorges of the Buller river, where the scenery was again +magnificent. Much of the route was along a narrow winding shelf, a +precipice dropping to the water beneath, while above the rocks overhung +the road, sometimes, as at a spot appropriately named the Devil's Eye, +to the extent of completely over-arching. The steep mountain-sides +around were covered with dense vegetation, gaunt Rimu trees smothered in +the embrace of flame-flowered Rata vines, and green lance-leaved +_kiakia_ creepers, with a thick undergrowth of tree-ferns standing erect +like pirouetting dancers in stiff green skirts and long black legs, +amongst a lesser crowd of gorse and bracken. The silence of the gorge +was broken only by the ripple of water and the sweet flute-notes of grey +Tui birds, a delicate contrast with the clangour of the church bells, +rung in honour of the Prince's visit, when the procession of motor-cars +emerged upon the open coast, and reached the mining township of +Westport. Here the reception was on the level, within sight of an +inclined road down which is brought what claims to be the best admiralty +coal in the world. This coal is mined high up in the hills above +Westport, and was burnt upon H.M.S. _Calliope_ when she thrilled the +world by beating out of the hurricane off Samoa in 1899. The Prince +returned in the evening to Hokitika. In an open square in this city next +morning, where the snows of Mount Cook shone out on the horizon, he was +presented with a digger's leather bag containing nuggets of west-coast +gold. + +[Illustration: WESTPORT CHILDREN: A TUMULT OF FLAGS AND FLOWERS] + +[Illustration: DUNEDIN'S WELCOME] + +From Hokitika the route was by train, via the labour-controlled township +of Greymouth, and up the fine Brunner valley, passing a number of +winding-shafts of mines producing good steam-coal, where miners were +making £2 5_s_. daily, and more of them were urgently needed. In the +afternoon Otira was reached, where New Zealand's longest railway tunnel, +which when finished will complete the hitherto broken connexion across +the island, was in active course of construction. Here the Prince left +the railway and travelled partly by a four-horsed coach, and partly on +foot, amidst heights and glaciers, over the magnificent Arthur's pass, +which overlies the tunnel, itself two thousand feet above sea level. The +tunnel is one of the big engineering achievements of the century. It is +five and a quarter miles long, and has been so accurately laid out that +when, a few months since, the excavations from the two ends met in the +middle, they were out only by three-quarters of an inch in alignment and +one and a half inches in level, a minuteness of error of which Mr. +Holmes, Engineer-in-Chief, and his technical staff may rightly be proud. + +Cheers, every few minutes, from people it was too dark to see, broke in +upon the rattle of the Royal train speeding to reach Christchurch by +dinner-time. Jolts at intervals informed us that we were crossing +sidings in the suburbs of a considerable city. Presently light shone +into the windows from outside, and we came to a standstill in a railway +station that might have been that of Oxford. Upon a red carpet, +stretched from the entrance to where the Prince's saloon drew up, was +standing Mayor Thacker, with ermine, chain and cocked hat, also members +of the corporation, waiting to welcome the Royal guest. By the time one +could get through the throng upon the platform from the front of the +train, the Prince, who was in the rear where a lane had been kept, was +inspecting a captain's guard of men and colours in the presence of the +dense, cheering crowd that pressed on the rope-barriers. A procession +followed, through two miles of decorated, illuminated, cheering, +flag-waving streets, the route kept with difficulty by police and +territorials. The cars soon separated from one another in the press. +Those who were towards the tail of the procession lost sight of the +Prince. Small boys waved paper flags in their faces, and had to be +discouraged from climbing on the radiator. Larrikins decided that one +correspondent was the Prince's doctor and christened him "Pills." +Another, the substantial representative of the "Daily Telegraph," was +found to resemble Mr. Massey, and was cheered as "Bill." Presently the +procession came to a standstill altogether, the crowd being squeezed +tight up all round, in front, as well as on the steps and mud-guards. +Horn-tooting and endeavours to move forward an inch at a time, coupled +with the vigorous assistance of the police, gradually got us on the move +again, and amid a din of laughing and cheering we saw the Prince being +got out of his car and carried into the club where he was to stay, to +reappear a few moments later on the balcony and wave acknowledgments to +the people, by this time squeezed solid once more. + +Similar scenes occurred on the following day, the same cheerful, +friendly, British crowd assembling in the streets and blocking the wide +Latimer Square, where the Prince received a number of formal addresses, +inspected a fine body of boy-scouts, and was serenaded, first in Welsh, +and afterwards in Gaelic, by groups of nice-looking girls in the +quaintness of chimney-pot hats and kilts. Proceeding afterwards to +Hagley park, the Prince reviewed some four thousand territorials, and +shook hands with two thousand returned men. Later in the evening he held +an informal levée at the civic hall, where he shook hands with another +two thousand people. By this time, if there is a scientific way of +accomplishing the gesture of friendship, His Royal Highness had probably +learned it. + +Christchurch is the third biggest city of New Zealand. A larger +proportion of the inhabitants is said to be of English extraction than +in any other city of the world outside the British islands. Certainly it +is one of the most home-like places we saw upon the tour with its +well-paved, well-lighted streets, fine business quarter, and pleasant +residential suburbs full of comfortable houses, each standing in its own +grounds. In Christchurch clear water courses down the gutter on one side +of many of the streets. This is from subterranean springs, tapped by +artesian borings, by means of which the entire city is supplied. The +water is supposed to be derived from the snows of the southern New +Zealand Alps as they soak into the valley of the Waimakariri--"freezing +water"--river which flows into the Canterbury plain. + +A fine harbour, with water so deep that even the _Renown_ was able to +lie alongside the wharf, exists eight miles off, at Lyttleton. Until one +goes over the ground it seems strange that a large city should have been +built so far away as eight miles from the harbour connected with it. The +lie of the hills explains this however. The harbour of Lyttleton is so +hedged in by steep slopes that it has been considered impossible to +build a city around it, and Christchurch occupies the nearest level +ground across the range. Connexion is facilitated by a mile-long +railway tunnel, one of the oldest undertakings of its kind in New +Zealand. + +Although so close to the hills, Christchurch stands upon almost +absolutely level ground, a corner indeed of the big Canterbury plain, +_par excellence_ the farming country of the Dominion. The city contains +cold-storage plant, a biscuit factory, and wool and hide establishments, +all of which proved their Imperial value during the war. It also +possesses one of the best high schools in the country, run on the lines +of a British public school. Being also the distributing centre for a +large and flourishing farming community, Christchurch is going ahead +rapidly, and has an excellent future before it, its south-of-England +climate making it a favourite place of residence. + +Farming is not in New Zealand an occupation penalized by the dread of +hardship or burden as one is apt to find it elsewhere, largely because +of the real love the New Zealander has for the land. The Mayor of one of +the larger cities we visited in the Northern Island, himself a +prosperous wholesale grocer, told me that neither of his two sons, when +they returned to New Zealand from France, would look at his business, +though he had kept it going longer than he would otherwise have done, +with the express purpose of handing it on to them, there being no one +else in his family to whom to leave it. They both insisted upon being +set up as farmers. The reason they gave was that farming life was +pleasanter and less exacting than any kind of business, and this +although they had, with farming, to begin all over again, whereas in the +wholesale grocery trade they had a long established and flourishing +concern ready to step into. + +The fifteen-year-old son of a prominent official said to his mother, +who passed on the irreverent observation to me, "Isn't father a loony to +do office work when he might have a farm of his own?" The boy's mind was +typical. I met refined women who said they wouldn't live anywhere in the +world but on a farm, and never once did I come across anyone who was on +the land and wanted to get off it. This attitude of mind has the +qualification that it is sheep and cattle-farming that is referred to, +and not dairy-farming, which is infinitely more exacting, though, at +present prices, and especially since the discovery of the possibilities +of the dried milk-trade, definitely more profitable. This is because the +sheep and cattle-farmer is not continually tied, and, while he has to +work hard at times, can also often get away, whereas the dairy-farmer +must be on hand all the year round, to see that the milking is attended +to, and that the milk is promptly disposed of at the creameries, of +which numbers are springing up, mostly run, upon a co-operative basis, +by groups of farmers themselves. + +This passion of the New Zealander for the land is a trait of the most +far-reaching significance. It accounts for the largeness of the rural, +as opposed to the urban, population in this Dominion. It has much to do, +also, with the splendid physique of the average New Zealander, and the +amazing healthfulness and longevity he appears to enjoy. This applies +especially to the middle classes, amongst whom there is extraordinary +immunity from such city diseases as consumption. The death-rate from +tuberculosis of New Zealand is less than half that of England and Wales. +It affects also the whole political outlook of the Dominion. The farmer +everywhere tends to be conservative in his views, for he has a stake in +the country. His farm may be small or large. The individual holding, on +the average, is probably not more than from thirty to eighty acres, an +area which even the most unskilled of labourers may hope, in the end, to +own; and one which, under the favourable agricultural and climatic +conditions prevailing, is sufficient to keep both the man himself and +his family. The number of holdings is therefore rapidly increasing, and +the effect which this has upon the whole political atmosphere is +incalculable. Nominally, the Government of the day may be Conservative +or it may be Liberal, but the voter's choice is one of men, rather than +of policy. Labour itself, as has already been pointed out, has become +conservative. It thus comes about that, in spite of the possession of +both manhood suffrage and womanhood suffrage, there is probably no +country in the world less open to subversive social theories than is New +Zealand. + + + + +XI + +ENTERPRISE IN NEW ZEALAND + + +It is impossible to travel through New Zealand and to meet the men it +sends into public life, without being impressed by the high character, +moderation and conservativeness which characterize politics in this +Dominion. + +There is no country where the spirit of live and let live is more fully +operative, none where charges of political corruption are less common, +and none where the spirit of co-operation for public ends is more +general. The "ins" at present call themselves Reformers, he "outs" +Liberals, but, so far as I have been able to make out, Mr. Massey's +Government retains its majority far more on account of the popularity of +himself and his colleagues than because the general policy for which +they stand differs very materially from that which would be adopted if +Sir Joseph Ward and his Liberal supporters were to return to power. In +consequence, again, of practically all voters having a stake in the +country, of one kind or another, whether in the form of house-property, +land or money, the administration they elect is intensely +individualistic, and probably there is no spot on earth where property +is more respected, or personal rights more secure. + +The financial position of the Dominion is also relatively good, for +although New Zealand's public debt bears a proportion to its population +not far different from the corresponding proportion in England, there +are two factors which make the situation of the Dominion definitely more +favourable. One of these is the larger potential margin of taxability in +New Zealand, owing to the greater individual prosperity of its +inhabitants and the extent of its still undeveloped resources. The other +is that so much of New Zealand's public debt has been invested in +remunerative public works. Out of a total debt of £194,000,000 no less +than £40,000,000 has been put into the acquisition or construction of +the three thousand five hundred miles of railway existing in the +country, an investment which itself pays the whole of the interest +charges concerned. Indeed, at present rates for labour and materials, +this happy country possesses a property worth probably more than twice +what it has cost to obtain. + +The railway factor in New Zealand is thus a very important one. It is +one also of special interest, as the New Zealand Government not only +owns but manages the whole of the lines, an arrangement not found in +other parts of the world to conduce to either efficiency or economy in +working. It seemed so impossible to believe that a democracy could be +keeping politics out of business that I fear I asked a great many very +impertinent questions on the subject of political graft in connexion +with railways. The map of New Zealand offered an invitation to +inquisitiveness. It showed that the country possesses a remarkably large +number of small unconnected railway lines running inland from the +various ports. Even to-day there is no complete through line in the +South Island, though progress is being made in linking up branches to +obtain it. One was at first inclined to attribute this state of things +to political pressure brought to bear upon the Government to supply +individual political constituents with more than their share of +transport facilities at the expense of the general traffic requirements +of the country. On going over the ground, however, two perfectly +innocent reasons leapt to defend the lines. The first is that in a +country as well supplied as is New Zealand with harbours round the +coasts, the natural main artery of traffic is by sea and not overland. +The second is that the mountain backbone of New Zealand is so tremendous +that the cost of through railways which, owing to the lie of the land, +must necessarily cross this backbone is enormous. This is exemplified by +the stupendous works, culminating in a five-mile tunnel, now under +construction to link the west coast with the east in the South Island. +The same applies to the North Island, it being impossible to traverse +the central railway from Auckland to Wellington without being impressed +by the difficulties that have had to be overcome, alike on the Raurimu +spiral in the middle, and at the famous one-in-thirteen incline near the +southern terminus. + +Mistakes have, no doubt, been made sometimes, and it is quite possible +that in some cases local influence may have bettered public utility, +both in the routes chosen for new lines, and in the order of their +construction. Upon the whole, however, the Public Works Department of +the New Zealand Government, which is responsible for the building of the +railways, is to be most warmly congratulated upon the lay-out as well +as upon the standard of excellence attained in the matter of the work. +The three-feet-six-inch gauge adopted in New Zealand may possibly have +to be changed eventually to the standard four-feet-eight-inch gauge in +use in Europe and America. The decision to adopt the narrow gauge, +however, was come to at a time when there was much to recommend the +selection, since it enabled railway facilities to be afforded very much +sooner than would have been possible had the more expensive standard +gauge been chosen. + +The New Zealand Government has also pursued a sound policy in doing +renovations, even where they have involved considerable structural +improvements, out of revenue. I was informed that original cost has, all +along, been replaced out of working expenses, where changes in the lines +have been made on capital account, and that since about 1907 all +relaying of lines and replacing of bridges and rolling-stock has been +charged to working expenses. Again, a considerable length of line has +been relaid each year, with heavy rails and new sleepers. The people of +New Zealand in consequence now own the entire railway system of their +country at a cost far below its present market value, and that too in a +state of structural efficiency, which, especially after five years of a +war to which the railways sent seven thousand of their trained men, is +very remarkable. The Royal train could testify to that, running as it +did over difficult country, from one end of New Zealand to the other, at +a pace which was seldom less than forty, and sometimes went as high as +sixty miles an hour, fast travelling on a narrow gauge anywhere. + +The railways are under a general manager responsible to a +minister-in-charge, at present the Prime Minister, and independent of +the Public Works Department, whose responsibilities end with +construction. In order to minimize political interference with traffic +charges, a rule is enforced that all rates must be published, thereby +facilitating discussion of them. No special local tariff also can be +sanctioned without public notice being first given. All rates are thus +subject to criticism in Parliament. Again, at present, ninety per cent. +of the traffic of the country, including both passengers and goods, is +carried on a flat-rate basis applicable to all lines, and all places. Of +the remaining ten per cent., all but a small proportion is carried on +concession rates designed to help the development of backward areas, it +being recognized that the railways are only adjuncts to the opening up +of the country and its resources. The fractional proportion which +remains is carried at special enhanced rates, but this does not affect +the general position, as it applies only to a few isolated sections of +not more than twenty miles apiece, where construction has been unusually +expensive, and where high rates have been adopted to cover interest on +the cost. + +A further safeguard is provided by the fact that a rate can only be +changed on the recommendation of the general manager, who is a member of +the public service, and therefore debarred from taking part in politics. + +Very much the same safeguards apply to the appointments. The personnel +of the railways in New Zealand is permanent, no new Government having so +far ventured to make any wholesale changes. The great majority of the +men now in the service have begun at the bottom, either as unskilled +apprentices or as cadets admitted after passing a qualifying +examination. I was unable to hear of either promotions or fresh +appointments for political reasons. + +That the above are real, and not merely theoretical conditions, is +strikingly shown by the financial results obtained. The dominant fact is +that, whereas in the United States and in England, Government control of +railways has been accompanied by heavy loss during the war, in New +Zealand the railways have remained on a paying basis throughout, though +the war rise in New Zealand traffic-rates has only been twelve and a +half per cent. in the case of passengers, and twenty-one per cent. in +that of goods, as compared with from fifty to seventy per cent. in the +case of the railways in Great Britain. At the same time the basic wage +for the employees has been increased in New Zealand by thirty-three per +cent., to which eight per cent. has recently been added, making a total +wage rise on New Zealand railways of forty-one per cent. + +As regards the cost of the carriage of goods on New Zealand railways, as +compared with British, the claim is made by the New Zealand railway +authorities that their rates are the lower. I was unable to obtain any +conclusive evidence upon this point, during the short time available, +owing to the difficulty of extracting average figures capable of being +fairly compared. As regards passenger rates, I understand that the +present New Zealand flat-rate is twopence per mile for "upper class" +passengers, and one and one-third pence per mile for "lower class," +rates which certainly compare not unfavourably with those obtaining in +England. + +The gross annual revenue of New Zealand railways is now about five and +three-quarter million sterling per annum. Of this sum two million is +allotted to payment of interest at four per cent. upon the forty million +sterling of capital cost. The balance of three and three-quarter million +goes to working expenses, which before the war averaged sixty-four per +cent. of gross revenue, and are now sixty-six per cent. + +Government goods consignments are carried at full rates, and troops at a +concession rate of one penny per mile return. There is no paper +inflation, therefore, in the figures. + +I have given the above particulars at some length, as the management of +so big a business organization as the entire railway system of the +country is obviously a good criterion of the nature of the political +administration as a whole. + +I may add two further instances of New Zealand methods. The first is +that the Government has embarked upon a seven-million-sterling scheme +for the development of hydro-electric power for industrial purposes, the +country being remarkably provided with facilities for this class of +enterprise. The installations, several of which are already well +advanced, are situated in widely separated localities spread over both +of the islands, so that a large proportion of the country will benefit. +The total power which this scheme is expected ultimately to develop +amounts to something like half a million horse-power. The work was to be +proceeded with as fast as labour, which was very scarce at the time of +the Prince's visit, became available. The second point concerns the +resettlement of returned soldiers upon the land and their restarting in +business. Upon this object the New Zealand Government had expended a +million sterling, of which the bulk consisted of loans on easy terms. +The feature that seems significant of the general situation of New +Zealand, was that practically all the fifty thousand men demobilized had +been found employment, and that the loans were being rapidly repaid, +one-eighth (£117,000) having already been refunded, while less than six +per cent. of the ten thousand men who had received advances were +reported as irregular with their instalments. + +Travelling as the party did from end to end of New Zealand, such +national enterprises as the working of the railways, the development of +hydro-electric power and the restarting of the men returned from the +war, were often discussed. The considerations which emerged are +certainly encouraging, not only from the point of view of those already +settled in the Dominion, but also to that wider community throughout the +Empire that looks to Australasia as a future home. + +The Prince left Christchurch by train on the morning of the 17th May, on +his journey to the southern end of the South Island and passed once more +through the Canterbury plain, a well-watered land of pleasant homesteads +and wide flat fields just then white with stubble from a recently reaped +wheat crop. His first stopping-place was the thriving town of Ashburton, +where an address of welcome was read by Major Galbraith, at one time one +of the best football players in New Zealand. In the course of his reply +His Royal Highness mentioned that he was a farmer in a small way +himself, which made him specially interested in the splendid farming +country through which he had been passing. The Prince's colonial farm is +in Alberta; he added it to the trophies of his Canadian tour in 1919. He +has already stocked and improved it and there is not a Canadian from +Halifax to Vancouver who does not look confidently to this holding to +bring him back there at an early date. Temuka, famed for its +trout-fishing, and Timaru, a rising watering-place, came next upon his +itinerary. Timaru is a port for the shipment of chilled meat, in +connexion with which several substantial cold-storage works could be +seen from the train. In this centre the Prince was given a picturesque +reception on the wide sands of Charlotte Bay, a popular bathing-resort +in the summer months. The cliffs here form an amphitheatre from which +twenty thousand people, including two thousand children from the schools +around, witnessed the usual reading of a civic address, and march past +of returned soldiers, red cross nurses, and other war workers. In the +afternoon the train traversed a fine bridge over the Waitaki river, +which is here the dividing line between the Scotch settlers of Otago and +the English of Canterbury. The Prince also stopped off at Oamaru, and +inspected a collegiate school, one of the foremost in New Zealand, where +an exceedingly smart cadet corps paraded before him, and he was +conducted by the headmaster, Doctor F. Milner, over buildings and +grounds comparable to those of a first-class public school in England. +One of the features of the institution was unenclosed dormitories, in +which the lads sleep out of doors, in all weathers, with wonderfully +beneficial results to their health and endurance. + +Dusk fell when the train was some twenty miles from Dunedin, the +Edinburgh of New Zealand, but the sky was lighted throughout the whole +of this distance by enormous bonfires, every village and every homestead +along the line competing as to which could make the biggest flare +against the forest and hills behind. Around these bonfires the local +inhabitants had assembled and cheered the Prince as the train ran +through. The night was alive with enthusiasm. Little old weary England, +at anchor far in her North sea, might have been glad to feel it. + +Port Chalmers, the Rosyth of Dunedin, was a wonderful sight. Coloured +flares were simultaneously lighted in all parts of the town, as the +train passed along the top of the cliffs. The harbour was thus shown up +like an inland lake, in a setting of hills, against which houses, +shipping and docks stood out in brilliant relief. + +At Dunedin the train climbed down into a fairyland of electric +illuminations, beginning at the railway station, where Mayor Begg and +the members of the civic council were assembled. A procession in cars, +through Princes Street and Stuart Street, to the Dunedin Club, where +quarters had been arranged for the Prince, showed him half a mile of +decorated, illuminated route, kept in absolute order by boy-scouts, +cadets and school-children, though every one of Dunedin's sixty thousand +inhabitants appeared to be participating in an orgy of cheering, +flag-waving and flower throwing behind this slender barrier. + +On the following day His Royal Highness attended an open-air reception, +in the presence of an immense gathering in the city octagon, beneath the +cathedral, the steps of which were occupied by a big chorus of girls +from secondary schools. Here he received nine addresses of welcome. In +replying, he told Dunedin that the part she played in the life of New +Zealand was fully worthy of the noble traditions which her pioneers +brought from the schools and colleges of the Old Country. Later on the +Prince visited the hospital, whence he drove over the heights +overlooking the shore, and down a steep winding track to Port Chalmers, +where, amidst more decorations and cheering crowds, the Harbour Board +and Local Borough Council presented addresses. + +On another day, in the presence of twenty thousand people, grouped +amongst green olearia bushes on grassy sandhills by the bay, the Prince +inspected seven thousand children representing two hundred and fifty +schools. A pretty incident occurred in the march past when the wide +ranks of the children opened, and a score of white-clad, +black-stockinged maidens trooped up and curtsyed before the Prince to +the strains of the March of Athol played by a drum and fife band in +Gordon plaids. The biggest and the littlest girl in the deputation then +stepped forward and presented the Royal visitor with a tiny greenstone +memento, purchased for him by the school-children themselves. A further +event of the visit of Dunedin was a march past by lamplight in the drill +hall. Five thousand tickets to this ceremony were issued to returned +men, each of whom came accompanied by relations or friends, so the +numbers present must have been considerable. + +From Dunedin the Prince went by train to Invercargill, the fifth city of +New Zealand. On the way he passed, in a snow-storm, the woollen mills of +Mosgiel, also the Mount Wallace and Kaitangata coal-mines. Receptions +were given in the towns of Balclutha, an active farming centre; Gore, +the head-quarters of flourishing flour-mills, and Mataura, the location +of hydro-electric works, paper-mills and cold-storage plant. +Invercargill was reached in cold wind and rain, yet the whole population +was found assembled in the streets. From the station the route led to +the racecourse, where in the presence of an immense gathering, +undismayed by the weather which had turned the whole place into a +quagmire, addresses were presented from the city of Invercargill and +from the Southland County. In the course of his reply the Prince +referred to Invercargill as being the last stopping-place on his New +Zealand tour, and added that fate would be unkind if it prevented his +renewing his recent experiences at some future time. + +The return journey of four hundred miles by train to Lyttleton, where +His Royal Highness re-embarked upon the _Renown_ for Australia, was done +in record time. The Earl of Liverpool, Governor-General; Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, and Mr. MacDonald, Leader of the Opposition, travelled +to Lyttleton to say good-bye. The Prince gave a farewell dinner on the +_Renown_, at which he conferred Knight-Commanderships of the Victorian +Order upon Sir William Fraser, and Sir Edward Chaytor, who had +accompanied him throughout the New Zealand tour. Junior rank in the same +Order was conferred upon Lt.-Colonel Sleeman, Director of Military +Training; Mr. Gavin Hamilton, of the Governor-General's staff; Mr. James +Hislop, Under-Secretary for Internal Affairs; Mr. R. W. McVilly, General +Manager of Railways; Mr. O'Donovan, Chief of Police, and Mr. Tahu +Rhodes, of the Governor-General's staff--all of whom had been actively +connected with the tour. + +The Prince at the same time handed to Mr. Massey, for publication +throughout New Zealand, a farewell message, in which he expressed his +thanks to the Government and people of the Dominion for the splendid +reception given to him. The message continued: "Two things particularly +impressed me. New Zealand is a land not merely of opportunity for some +but for all. I have never seen such well-being and happiness so +uniformly evident throughout the population of country and town alike. +This Dominion is also a living example of the fact that a European race +may take over a new country without injustice to the original +inhabitants, and that both may advance in mutual confidence and +understanding along a common path. New Zealand is one of the greatest +monuments to British civilization in the world, and I have felt, from +end to end of the Dominion, that there is nowhere a British people more +set in British traditions or more true to British ideals. I have found +the strength of your loyalty to the Empire and its sovereign as keen and +bracing as mountain air, and I know you will never weaken in your +devotion to British unity and British ideals." + +In conclusion the Prince referred to the journeys still to be taken +before he could say he had seen the British Empire as a whole, adding +that he still hoped to pay New Zealand another visit some day, a hope +cordially echoed by both press and people throughout the Dominion. + + + + +XII + +VICTORIA + + +The voyage from Lyttleton to Melbourne was rough but uneventful. The +_Renown_ did the 1,651 miles in three days, and very uncomfortable days +they were. She carried a new passenger in the fine bulldog presented to +the ward-room mess by the Mayor of Gisborne, but it languished so +grievously that it had to find a new home in the Commonwealth. It had +joined the Navy too late in life. + +The Prince had his first view of Australia by moonlight. The sea had +then gone down and mist hung in the narrow strait as the _Renown_ passed +between the dark shadowy hills of Wilson's promontory and the grey +rounded cone of Rodondo Island. The following morning, however, found +the _Renown_ still outside the confined entrance to Port Phillip, +enveloped in a clinging fog, that shut out everything from view. The +tide was then high, so the ten-knot current, that rushes through the +entrance when the water is low, had subsided, but this favourable +condition could not be taken advantage of to bring in the _Renown_ as +neither buoys nor lights could be seen. Impatiently the ship's company +waited for the fog to clear, but hour after hour went by and it seemed +to grow only denser. Tired navigating officers, in sopping overalls, +descended gloomily from the bridge, and it was realized that there would +be no crossing the bar that tide. The wireless meanwhile had crackled a +message through to the Australian fleet, lying within Port Phillip, +asking destroyers to come out and fetch the Prince, so that he might not +disappoint the enormous crowds waiting in the streets of Melbourne to +welcome him. The destroyers had forty miles of intricate navigation to +negotiate, but were speedily in the neighbourhood. The _Renown_ +meanwhile had been carried by the currents out of her original position, +but the firing of guns and the tooting of syrens eventually discovered +her. That fine boat H.M.A.S. _Anzac_, recently attached to the +Australian Navy, came smartly alongside, and took off the entire party. +Steaming at twenty-eight knots, with a following wave so high as nearly +to conceal the accompanying destroyers from the _Anzac's_ quarter-deck, +soon brought her through the Heads, in spite of the ten-knot tide then +running full against her. The fog thinned off, and showed the _Anzac_ in +still autumn sunshine, pushing through a misty expanse of grey +landlocked bays. Yellow sandy hills, dotted with soft-toned buildings, +receded on either side as she advanced and the bay widened out, to +reappear later on as she approached Melbourne harbour, which first +presented itself as a forest of gaunt black cranes, with a background of +roofs and chimneys emerging mistily from a low foreshore. + +The destroyer was cheered again and again, as she approached amongst +launches and steamers crammed with holiday-makers out to see the Prince. +She made fast to a red-carpeted wharf, in front of goods sheds flaming +with decorations, where waited a smartly turned out naval +guard-of-honour, and all the port authorities in full dress. Greetings +and salutes accomplished, the party transhipped to a shallow-draft +steamer--the _Hygeia_--which carried the Prince to the St. Kilda pier, +in front of the residential quarter, through a fleet of yachts and +launches filled with cheering people. + +On the pier four figures stood out prominently--the Governor-General, +the Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, the Lieutenant-Governor of +Victoria, and the Premier of Victoria. Behind them were staffs in +uniform, scores of dignitaries in top-hats and frock-coats, and a +guard-of-honour in khaki. Long lines of marines and sailors kept a lane +down the pier, and out into the crowd beyond. The Prince landed, and +shook hands with the Governor-General and the Prime Minister, who +afterwards presented to him the Premiers of New South Wales, Queensland, +South Australia, Western Australia, and Tasmania, besides numerous +members of their respective Governments, most of whom had travelled long +distances to attend. The civic address gone through, a procession was +formed, the Prince, the Governor-General, the Prime Minister, and other +bigger officials in barouches, the rest of the party following in motors +behind. The mounted escorts included a fine squadron of police on grey +horses, each of which was a picture. The procession traversed eight +miles of wide, well-kept streets, with swarms of well-dressed, +well-nourished people, applauding, laughing and chaffing on either side. +The crowds were enormous. The streets were crammed. Thousands were +accommodated upon stands against the sides of the buildings. Every +balcony, window, roof, and parapet, whence, in any way, a glimpse could +be caught of the procession, was filled with people. Commonwealth +troops, cadets in khaki, and police in black uniform, though stationed +only sparsely along the line, maintained excellent order. The crowds +were as full of good-humour as could be, despite having been kept +waiting by the fog for more than an hour after the advertised time. A +wave of clapping and cheering went down the street alongside the Prince, +and tailed off into chaff and criticism, at the expense of Mr. Hughes +and other members of the Government, at the end of the procession. The +cheering grew stronger as the business quarter of Melbourne was reached, +and the procession passed through its spacious thoroughfares. "Generous" +seemed to be the adjective most appropriate alike to the broad outlines +of the architecture, for Melbourne despises sky-scrapers, to the width +and dignity of the well-paved streets, and to the profusion of costly +motor-cars and horses seen on the way. Those who accompanied the party +were soon to discover for themselves that it applies equally to the +quick-witted, outspoken, hospitable, kindly people of Melbourne. + +The following day was a busy one for the Prince. It began with a levée +at Government House, where he invested a number of returned officers and +men with decorations won at the front. The reception of a score of +addresses came next and the replying to the more important of them, +including those from both Houses of the Commonwealth Legislature. The +functions finished with a banquet at Parliament Buildings, at which the +Right Honourable Mr. Hughes proposed the Prince's health. The toast was +seconded, in the warmest terms, by Mr. Frank Tudor, Leader of the +Opposition. The keynote of the occasion was sounded by Mr. Hughes when +he said to his guest: "The people of Australia see in you the things in +which they believe." + +There followed a bewildering week in which the Prince was carried from +one public function to another, through extraordinary masses of people, +composed largely of women and children, but also comprising a very +considerable number of men, who waited in the streets for hours at a +time, sometimes in chill wind, fog or rain, on the chance of catching a +glimpse of the Royal visitor. Many of them, when he appeared, made such +efforts to approach and shake him by the hand, that the police had +difficulty in getting his car through. His progress was so delayed in +many cases that it became almost impossible for him to fulfil +engagements at the hour appointed, in spite of the most liberal +allowance of time for delays upon the road. Eventually appeals were made +through the press for some abatement of this personal demonstration. The +police arranged for a wider lane to be kept for his car, and the +difficulty gradually disappeared. The Melbourne newspapers, meanwhile, +day after day, made the Prince's visit their almost exclusive business. +The smallest details of his doings were chronicled with minuteness, and +long poems and articles about him were published. Photographs, in every +attitude and at every function, appeared prominently amongst the news of +the day. The Prince was "featured" inexhaustibly. Scenes of enthusiasm +also characterized the Naval Review, where every fighting ship belonging +to the Commonwealth of Australia was paraded. A special agricultural +show was held to which landholders from distant parts of Victoria sent +breeding stock so valuable that no previous exhibition had been able to +attract it. A public reception was given in the exhibition buildings, +where people stood from eleven in the morning to four in the afternoon +to secure front places. An entertainment was organized at the +cricket-ground where ten thousand school-children went through +marvellously trained evolutions, and fifty thousand spectators cheered +when the Prince appeared. + +When one asked folk in the street what they thought of him, enthusiasm +found various expressions, but it was always enthusiasm. I have heard a +stout, middle-aged and presumably sane gentleman in the smoking-room of +a Melbourne hotel declare in the most bellicose tone to all and sundry +that he would like to fight for him. I never heard a word of criticism. +Certainly Melbourne, and all the great interests it represents, took the +Prince to a generous heart. + +From Melbourne His Royal Highness made a two-days' trip by train into +the rich districts of Western Victoria, through the Werribee Plain, +where land fetches up to £60 per acre. Stone-walled fields of oats just +rising above ground, with pleasant farm-houses amidst sparse white +gum-trees, spread on either side of the track. Low, blue hills bounded +the view. Country folk waved greetings from many homesteads, as the +train sped onward. The first stopping-place was Geelong, on the +sheltered coast of Port Phillip, once a rival to Melbourne for the +honour of being the capital of Victoria, now a marine base, and +prosperous shire town. It is known throughout Australia as the home of +the doctrine of the one man vote, and eight-hour day, first promulgated +in the 'seventies, by Sir Graham Berry, who represented Geelong in the +Commonwealth Legislature. Here the Prince found himself in the midst of +an agricultural, manufacturing and shipping community. The +guard-of-honour was composed of naval cadets. He was shown thousands of +bales of finest merino wool from mills which not only clean and sort it, +but also, upon a smaller scale, manufacture it into blankets and cloth. +Pupils were presented to him from Geelong's famous grammar school, which +draws its students from all parts of Australia, and had a larger +proportion of casualties, in the great war, than any other educational +institution outside the British islands. Here also he visited a big +wool-shed, that of Messrs. Dennys Lascelles Ltd., with a ferro-concrete +roof weighing two thousand tons, so large that the sales-room it +shelters covers an acre of floor, yet there is not a single pillar in +support, the necessary stiffness being given by means of reinforced +girders, built upon cantilever principles, above the roof. The streets +were crowded with people, and the Prince had a very fine reception alike +at the reading of the municipal address, and at the functions of shaking +hands with returned soldiers, and inspecting school-children. A large +number of schools from townships in the interior were represented, each +with one pupil elected by its fellows to shake hands with the Prince. +The selected mites stood shyly out, in front of the lines of scholars, +as the Prince went by to honour the promise given. + +From Geelong the Prince went on to Colac, shire centre of one of the +richest districts in Victoria. Here he was shown what claims to be the +second largest dairying factory in the Commonwealth. It is run on +co-operative lines, and makes, in addition to such products as butter +and cheese, large quantities of dried milk, a comparatively new +preparation, for which increasing demand is springing up in all parts of +the world. It is an enterprise to which all may wish good luck, as a +long step toward solving the important problem of rendering milk easily +transportable, without loss of essential properties. + +In entering, and again in leaving Colac, the train passed quite close to +a number of low conical hills and circular lakes, remains of +comparatively recent volcanic action, which has given the soil over a +wide area properties that enable it to grow Spanish onions in +extraordinary profusion. In a favourable season, fabulous profits are +made out of this crop. One man, with twenty acres, in one year cleared +£1,800, of which £1,200 was net profit, after paying all cost of +cultivation and harvesting. The Prince also saw some of the outlying +trees of the famous Otway forest, home of the blue gum and blackwood +timber used not only in Australia but also in America and Europe for +decorative work. + +In Colac, the streets had been elaborately decorated. Flags covered +alike the stone and reinforced-concrete houses of business, and the +brick and wooden residences. The accommodation of the place had been +supplemented for the Royal visit, by encampments of tents, one large +marquee flaunting the imposing title of the "Café de Kerbstone." Choirs, +in Welsh and Scottish costumes, serenaded the procession. There was much +cordial cheering, especially about the shire-hall, where the civic +address was read. + +The next halting-place was Camperdown, another farming centre, where +again a surprisingly large gathering of country folk had assembled to +welcome the Prince. Motor-cars, often of the most expensive British +makes, in which the owners had come from their holdings, stood about in +the streets. The Royal party here transferred to motors, in which the +Prince drove out to the residence of Mr. Stuart Black, one of +Australia's great landholders, descendant of settlers from Tasmania, who +opened up this part of the country some eighty years ago. These settlers +bore many distinguished names, including those of the Gladstone family +and the MacKinnons. + +The following day His Royal Highness went by train to Ballarat, past a +fine stone memorial to members of the neighbourhood who had fallen in +the great war, subscribed for by the residents of the district, and +designed by Mr. Butler, of Sydney. The route lay through undulating +agricultural country, past big heaps of white, pink, or yellow tailings, +which mark the sites of now worked-out gold-mines. Some of the fields +around were pitted with what looked very much like shell-holes, dug by +early prospectors for the gold that made Ballarat famous. The Prince +found the last-named place a prosperous market town, with substantial +public buildings, and quantities of marble statues, dating from the days +of easily made fortunes in the 'seventies. It contains also wool, and +other factories, including that of Messrs. Lucas and Company, for the +production of underclothing, with which the Prince became acquainted +under circumstances worthy of the creditable history of this firm. +During the war, some five hundred girls employed by Messrs. Lucas +conceived the idea of planting an avenue, in which each tree should be +connected with the name of one of Ballarat's large contingent of +fighting men at the front. At the head of this avenue, which is now a +dozen miles in length, a substantial masonry Arch of Victory has been +set up. The Prince opened this arch in the presence of the entire +establishment of the Lucas factory, which presented him with an +embroidered set of underclothing--yellow silk pyjamas, to be exact--in +the making of which every employee of the firm had taken part. + +Rain had been falling heavily, but the girls faced it cheerily at the +head of their avenue, many a tree of which bore the flag that told that +the soldier it commemorated had been killed. The presentation was made +to the Prince by two ladies, one of whom was Mrs. Lucas, the founder of +the firm, which she had started on a very small scale, at a time when +the miners were beginning to desert the Ballarat goldfield, leaving, in +many cases, families behind them. Mrs. Lucas gathered these families +around her, and by a system of profit-sharing, attached them to her +firm, which is now well known throughout Australia. + +This was not the only function at Ballarat. The Prince also received an +address standing out in the rain, on a platform in the main street, in +the midst of a crowd so large that those in the rear could neither hear +nor see very clearly what was going on in front. As the result, both the +reading and the reply to the address were much interrupted, a patriotic +cornet on the outskirts playing "God Bless the Prince of Wales" part of +the time while the Prince himself was speaking. The Prince got hold of +his audience, after two false starts, however, and to such purpose that +the latter part of his speech was listened to with an interest that the +rain, which plastered his hair and flattened out his collar, appeared to +enhance. The cheering at the end was most hearty. The crowd did not +disperse when the speeches were over, but waited in the rain until after +the completion of a further ceremony, which took place inside the town +hall, where the Prince shook hands with numbers of returned men and +nurses. He was again loudly cheered when he came out and got into his +car _en route_ to the train to Melbourne. + +The rain that was so insistent during the visit to Ballarat was of +dramatic importance to the country at large. It broke a long and serious +drought, extending over an enormous area--a drought so severe that we +passed, on the road to Ballarat, way-worn sheep that had been driven +three hundred miles in search of fodder and water. They were browsing, +on their homeward way, on one of the farmer's stock-routes which +traverse Australia from end to end. These cattle-tracks are generously +bordered by pastures fenced off from the surrounding country, so as to +conserve food for flocks and herds in movement. + +Two days later, just three weeks from Australia's mid-winter, the Prince +crossed, by train from Melbourne, the chill slopes of the Great Dividing +Range, which separates the basin of the Murray river, flowing westward +through central Australia, from that of the streams which pour their +waters southwards to the coast. On the way, he received addresses at +Kyneton and Castlemaine, once gold-mining camps, now not less prosperous +dairying and woollen-working centres, the entire countryside turning out +to receive him. Thence the train climbed down to a pleasant plateau on +which stands Bendigo, city of flowers and dry, healthful breezes, and a +centre of large and still exceedingly productive quartz gold-mining. +Enormous heaps of grey "mullick" shale, and yellow and white tailings +here stand amongst beautiful avenues of shady eucalyptus trees, and +substantial buildings of stone and brick. One of the cheeriest civic +luncheons of the tour was a feature of the day--the Mayor toasting the +Royal guest as Duke of Cornwall, Prince of the "Cousin Jacks," to whom +the development of the Bendigo gold industry is so largely due. A +novelty also appeared on the triumphal arches in the streets, which, in +place of wreaths and patriotic texts, carried whole bevies of the +prettiest girls the city could find. These arches had been built in the +form of bridges connecting the porticoes on one side of the street with +those on the other. The girls occupied the middle and dropped flowers as +the Prince passed in his car. + +Intensive small culture is so successful about Bendigo, that we were +told as much as £300 has been made out of an acre of tomatoes in a +single year. Bendigo may thus look forward to a future of agriculture +when her reefs are exhausted. Gold-mining brought her population, but +her fields and gardens will probably keep it. + +Later in the afternoon the Prince, accompanied by the Prime Minister, in +overalls, descended the shaft of one of the gold-mines that amongst them +keep the mints of the country busy turning out sovereigns that bear on +the reverse the effigy of the kangaroo. The Prince thus made the +acquaintance of the gold industry which has played so dramatic a part in +the history of the Commonwealth. The output has been falling off +gradually since 1903 when the value produced was over sixteen million +sterling. It still averages over ten million sterling annually however, +and is likely long to remain a very important source of wealth. + +It was on this expedition that newspaper men accompanying the tour had +their first opportunity of becoming acquainted with a number of +distinguished Australians with whom they were so fortunate thereafter as +to travel extensively. I have already mentioned that the Rt. Hon. Mr. +William Hughes, Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, was one of them, his +outspoken frankness and caustic humour illuminating and diverting long +stretches of the railway journeys. Another member of the Commonwealth +Government, closely associated with the tour, was the Hon. Mr. Pearce, +Minister of Defence, who was supported, whenever the Prince was in naval +ports, by the Hon. Sir Joseph Cook, Minister for the Navy, and +Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Member of the Naval Board, authorities who +were able to afford the Prince first-hand information about the training +and equipment of the forces that have given an account of themselves at +once so memorable and so recent. Major-General Sir Brudenell White, +Commonwealth Organizer of the visit, Brigadier-General H. W. Lloyd, +Brigadier-General Dodds, Commodore J. S. Dumaresq, were also outstanding +figures of the party. The Commonwealth arrangements, extensive though +they were, represented only a small portion of the organization +connected with the Australian part of the tour. Every State had also its +own organizer, besides numerous committees--committees for decoration +and illuminations, reception committees, committees for dinners and +dances, school committees, committees to guide and instruct the British +Press. These last-named bodies, to whom the debt of the visiting +newspapermen was considerable, consisted not of delegated correspondents +but of the editors and proprietors of the leading journals themselves. +These gentlemen also took upon themselves the duty of making known +throughout each State the story of the Prince's doings, thus giving to +the business of publicity the best and most influential brains +available, and placing at the disposal of the Overseas pressmen a +constant reference to experience and local knowledge of the utmost +value. + +[Illustration: JUTLAND DAY AT MELBOURNE] + +[Illustration: WITH AUSTRALIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED CITIZEN] + +With the Commonwealth Prime Minister an ex-Labour member, and with +Labour Governments in power in several of the Australian state +legislatures, no one can visit Melbourne, seat of the Commonwealth +Government, without coming up against some of the industrial problems +and prospects in this country. It has already been mentioned that, at +the dinner given to the Prince by the Commonwealth Government, in +Parliament Buildings, Mr. Frank Tudor, leader of the Labour Party in +opposition to Mr. Hughes' Government, warmly seconded the toast of the +Prince's health. I repeat this fact, as it seems to be indicative of the +general attitude of Victorian labour towards the Royal visit. The +British pressmen had the opportunity of meeting some of the Labour +leaders, amongst them Mr. E. J. Holloway, Secretary of the Melbourne +Trades Hall, and Mr. D. L. MacNamara, Labour Member of the Victoria +Upper House. They are men of moderate views, while full of schemes for +bettering the conditions of labour on this continent. Mr. MacNamara is +the author of proposals, now forming part of the Australian Labour +Party's platform, for revising the Commonwealth constitution, upon lines +designed to make the will of the people supreme. He would abolish +existing State governments, and divide the States into provinces +administered by councils exercising only such functions as might, from +time to time, be conferred upon them by the Commonwealth Government, +the Upper Chamber in the latter to be done away with, thereby leaving +the lower Federal House a free hand to put through legislation +beneficial to the masses. This scheme, whatever may be its intrinsic +merits, is rather of theoretic than practical interest, as there is not +much probability of any proposals for increasing the powers of the +Commonwealth Government being accepted by the States, which are after +all in paramount authority for the time being. It is nevertheless +important as showing the constructive nature of problems with which +Labour men in this part of Australia concern themselves. Mr. Holloway's +activities have been chiefly connected with organizing proposals for the +immediate advantage of workers, reducing their hours of work, and +increasing their pay. Australian labour is watching developments in +England, and a tendency is growing to substitute friendly round-table +conferences between workers and employers for the less elastic processes +of strikes and lock-outs which have so often been resorted to in the +past. + +There was no lack of evidence in Melbourne to show how closely the +community, as a whole, is affected by the new distribution of political +power. Smoke-room assertions that industry was being destroyed by the +frequency of strikes need not be taken too seriously, since the manifest +prosperity of the crowds and the well-ordered activities of the +factories did not at the time confirm any such mournful supposition. It +is apropos to mention, however, that in Melbourne places of business +much capital is locked up in purely emergency apparatus for doing +without such public utilities as water-supply, electricity and gas, +these arrangements being designed to enable industry to continue during +periods of municipal inactivity, a fact which is certainly significant +of the frequency of strikes in the past. Another noticeable feature is +the far-reaching nature of the activities of the unions. In the +sub-editorial rooms of the leading newspapers may be seen labour forms, +to be filled up even by men holding well-paid appointments upon the +staff, giving detailed particulars of hours of duty, overtime and +emoluments. + +Friendly personal interest, rather than anything deeper, was perhaps +apparent in what some of the Labour men said about the Prince. Friendly +personal interest was always there, however. Even those who were +inclined to ascribe the wonderful reception in the streets to the Prince +being "a good sport, and well advertised," readily admitted the +desirability of the British connexion, and their own cordial wish to +keep up old relationships in this new land. At the time of the Prince's +visit correspondence appeared in the Melbourne Press on the subject of +alleged Catholic lukewarmness in regard to Royalty, and it must be said +that political trouble in Ireland has not been without its echo of +difficulty in Victoria, though the extent of anything of the kind might +be very easily exaggerated. + +The wonder is, however, not that isolated exceptions should be found, +but that, with all the divergent political ideals, and conflicting +social conditions, necessarily met with in a large city of such recent +growth as Melbourne, so generous a measure of warm-hearted loyalty +should have been manifested, loyalty in which all sections of the +community, including Labour, showed themselves to be in warm accord. + + + + +XIII + +NEW SOUTH WALES + + +Towards the end of the visit to Melbourne it became plain that the +tension of repeated functions and strenuous journeys had begun to tell +upon the Prince. He held out manfully, but was clearly overtired. This +was by no means surprising, at all events to any member of the tour +party, for all had begun to feel a strain which fell in a degree vastly +multiplied upon His Royal Highness. + +That well-informed journal, "The Melbourne Argus," referring to the +matter, said: "When the programme was arranged, before the arrival in +Melbourne, the opinion was expressed in these columns that it was +proposed to place too great a strain upon the Prince, and since his +arrival it has become every day more evident that human strength is +unequal to the tasks which have been set. The Prince has not made any +complaint, but has most generously and courageously met all engagements. +Only those in close association with him know the expenditure of nervous +force which this conscientious discharge of duty has entailed." + +Eventually the programme was altered so as to give H.R.H. an additional +week in Melbourne, free from public engagements. The hope that he would +rest, however, was not in any literal sense fulfilled, as he spent his +holiday in riding and golf, hardly less tiring than the public functions +which the doctor had forbidden him. His staff were lucky if, after a +long day spent in the saddle, he could be persuaded not to dance into +the small hours. This strenuousness is characteristic. In the _Renown_ +he spent much of his spare time exercising on deck or playing squash +racquets. A mile run was his not infrequent preparation for a long day +of public engagements. It is an attractive habit, but in the case of one +subjected as the Prince is, at short intervals, to emotional as well as +physical strain it hardly carries the recuperative benefit that it might +in ordinary circumstances. The rest in Melbourne, such as it was, +enabled him to carry on throughout the remainder of the tour. He seemed +occasionally to take every ounce out of himself, but he "carried on." + +Melbourne's send-off, when the Prince ultimately left to proceed to +Sydney, was, if possible, even more demonstrative than its reception +when he arrived. Nine aeroplanes, soaring round the Ionic columns of +Parliament Buildings, as dusk was falling, created the first stir in the +immense crowd which waited along the road he was to take. Presently +distant cheering was heard gradually coming nearer, as his car made its +way from the Moone Valley racecourse, where he had spent the afternoon, +to the top of Collins Street, where the official portion of the route +commenced. Slowly the procession extricated itself from the mass of +people who rushed up to say farewell, and assailed his car with +offerings of flowers and wax Kewpie dolls for luck. A real horse-shoe, +tied up in ribbon, was thrown by an admirer unable to get near enough to +present it. It was perhaps owing to the good luck it brought that it +dropped harmlessly into the bottom of the Prince's car. Eventually, the +procession was able to go forward along a barricaded lane kept by the +police in the middle of the street. In this space children raced +alongside, and a ripple of waving hats and handkerchiefs kept pace with +the cars as they advanced, while the evening air rang with cries of +"Good-bye, Digger": "Come Again!" interspersed with clapping and +cheering. The Prince stood upon the seat of the car waving his hat +through some miles of these demonstrations. + +On the wharf at Port Melbourne a farewell address was presented by the +local authorities beneath a gigantic arch inscribed "Australia Is Proud +of You." Here the State Premier and other notables attended, also a +guard-of-honour of the Royal Australian Naval Brigade. The reverberation +of boots upon the wharf, as the crowd rushed afterwards to catch a last +view of the Prince as he went up the gangway of the _Renown_, drowned +the sound of a fife and drum band, operated by ladies in MacKenzie +tartans, which banged on cheerfully alongside. + +The _Renown_ sailed at daylight, escorted out of harbour by a flotilla +of Australian destroyers. The voyage was along a hilly shore for the +most part covered with forest. The first port of call was in the wide, +sheltered harbour of Jervis Bay, the Dartmouth of Australia. Here Sir +Joseph Cook and Rear-Admiral Grant, with Captain Walters, Dr. Wheatly +and other senior members of the Naval College, received the Prince, who +inspected a smart guard-of-honour of cadets, and was subsequently shown +over the institution, which is well arranged and up to date. The +buildings include airy dormitories, comfortable study rooms, convenient +lecture halls, commodious laboratories, and spacious gymnasium and +gun-room, and are built round a roomy grass "quarter-deck," on which the +cadets in the course of the afternoon handsomely defeated the best Rugby +football team that the _Renown_ could produce. Nothing could exceed the +pleasantness and wholesomeness of the atmosphere of this fine naval +training college. The life by the cadets is an open-air one, and a more +healthy and promising body of youngsters it would be impossible to find +anywhere. They are being given a sound education amongst surroundings +calculated to impress upon them the beauty and attractiveness of the +land whose service they are about to enter. The harbour, at the foot of +the college playing-fields, is to be the port of entrance to the federal +territory of Canberra. The site of the new capital itself is only some +seventy miles inland, a distance which is thought nothing of in this +country of magnificent spaces. A railway has been surveyed to connect +the two places, and a corridor of federal territory had been marked out, +so that the entire line, including the port, may be out of reach of any +state influence. + +The Jervis Bay College is a step in the direction of making the fine +fighting ships, which Australia already possesses, independent of the +help of the Mother Country. Boys are growing up there who will hereafter +command them, and perhaps build the big naval graving docks, that are so +badly wanted in Australian waters, to enable the modern battleships of +Great Britain to reinforce effectually those of Australia in any trouble +that may arise in the Pacific. + +"What do you think of our harbour?" is as inevitable a question in +Sydney as "What do you think of America?" is in New York. It was soon +countered by the demand of the blue-jackets on the _Renown_, "And what +do you think of our ship?" but its relevance was easy enough to +understand, when, in the misty dawn, of what was mid-winter in +Australia, but might have been a fine June day in England, we reached +the high rocky headlands which guard the entrance to these wonderful +inland waters. + +A flotilla of war-vessels, including two Australian cruisers and a +number of destroyers, escorted the Prince's ship into an aquatic +amphitheatre. On all sides were beautiful wooded promontories sloping +down to the edge of still pearly water. The slopes were studded with +home-like villas, each gay in its own garden. Bays and inlets made +shaded alleyways in all directions from the central expanse. Slowly the +battle-cruiser threaded her way through the deep water marked but by +buoys into the inner harbour. Hundreds of decorated motor-boats and +dozens of double-decked ferry-steamers crowded round, each one of them a +cheerful bouquet of brilliant parasols and fine-weather millinery. +Well-groomed men, opulently dressed women, and smartly turned out boys +and girls, on one boat after another waved handkerchiefs and Union +Jacks, clapped, cheered, laughed, and sang. Brass bands banged out the +National Anthem, and the usual petition to the Almighty to bless the +Prince of Wales. The Prince waved and smiled in return, from his eyrie +above the bridge, while fresh boats raced alongside, and continually +restarted the hubbub. + +As the _Renown_ advanced up the harbour droves of rowing-boats and +flocks of sailing craft added themselves to the now slow procession. +Gatherings of people became visible as dark patches on the white +foreshore of every promontory. In the case of the rocky headland +overlooking the middle harbour, the patch must have been many acres in +extent. The _Renown_ dropped anchor half a mile from Farm Cove, a +sheltered gap in the encircling hills. The Prince went ashore in his +launch, through a decorated cheering sea-lane of tugs, ferry-steamers, +rowing-boats and yachts. He landed on a shaded beach, the slope behind +solidly crammed with people, while beside the water, in a grove of +bunting and greenery, were assembled the most distinguished men to be +found in this part of Australia. Those present included the +Governor-General, the Prime Minister, the State Governor, the State +Premier, Members of the Commonwealth Government resident in New South +Wales, the whole of the State legislature, Ministers, Judges in robes +and wigs, Admirals and Generals in the last inch of permitted gold-lace. +Immediately behind was a decorated marquee in which were the civic +officials, including the Lord Mayor of Sydney in municipal robes and +ermine, who presented an address. A naval guard-of-honour was drawn up +on one side of the marquee, and a military guard-of-honour on the other. +Salutes were fired, bands played, the guards-of-honour were inspected, +the principal people were presented. The address was replied to, and +amidst much cheering the Prince was conducted up a decorated staircase +to the top of the cliff where a number of four-in-hands with large +mounted escorts of "diggers" were in waiting to convey him through the +city. The proceedings differed from those on the occasion of the entry +into Melbourne in that they took place in bright morning sunshine, +instead of in the fading light of evening. The route, including as it +did long straight stretches of undulating ground, enabled the brilliant +pageant of flags, escorts and pennants to be seen as a whole as the +procession jingled through five miles of densely packed people. + +The way was kept by returned soldiers and cadets. Triumphal arches, +constructed throughout of such characteristic Australian products as +wool-bales, corn-sheaves, or balks of timber, dotted it at intervals. +Avenues of white colonnades supported flags and bunting which stretched +continuously for miles. Sightseers festooned the parapets, crowded the +balconies, tapestried the windows with eager faces, and formed a solid +mass between the wooden barriers of the processional lane and the +plate-glass show-fronts of the business houses. + +In substantial Macquarie Street the Prince stopped to greet a terribly +large community of crippled soldiers, who sat patiently in motors and +bath-chairs by the wayside, attended by nursing sisters. Further on a no +less touching spectacle awaited him, in a great gathering of +black-garbed mothers, widows and orphans of diggers killed at the front, +a pathetic reminder that, of the four hundred thousand soldiers raised +by voluntary enlistment in Australia during the war, only one in two +escaped wounds or death. Here the pressure was dense; and spectators, we +heard, paid a shilling a minute to stand on packing-cases to look over +one another's heads. + +The route ended on the shady lawns of Admiralty House, where the Prince +inspected a great company of war-workers, who stood in ranks of +variegated colour, including the red and grey of sisters who served in +hospitals overseas, and the white and black of those whose no less +devoted labour kept public utilities active at home while the manhood of +the nation was in the field. Before entering the building where he was +to stay the Prince shook hands with no less than ten wearers of the +Victoria Cross. + +The reception was over. Perhaps the feature in it which struck the +visitor most, next to its magnificence and enthusiasm, was the +light-heartedness of the crowds. After the Prince had passed, and had +been everywhere cheered, Mr. Hughes, the Commonwealth Prime Minister, +Mr. Storey, the State Premier, and other ministers who were further back +in the procession were subjected to volleys of chaff and counter-chaff +from supporters and opponents, in which they themselves joined with the +utmost goodwill. Even the crashing into the harbour, close alongside the +reception wharf, of one of the aeroplanes employed on escort duty, upset +the equanimity of nobody. A motor-launch promptly picked up the soused +aviators, who seemed to find the accident the greatest of larks. + +The country round was as much interested in the visit as the city +itself. For days before the Prince's coming special trains, crowded to +their utmost capacity, had followed one another in quick succession into +Sydney from localities sometimes hundreds of miles away in the back +blocks. One heard of a father who squeezed his family of tiny children +into one of these special trains, and was then unable to get a foothold +on it for himself. The mites went to Sydney unaccompanied, but lacked +for nothing, either upon the way or when they arrived, for every soul +upon the train was prepared to father and mother them. + +The ten days which followed were crowded with public functions in which +what seemed to be the entire population of Sydney participated outside, +if not inside, the place of occurrence. One of the principal was the +state banquet in the enormous town-hall. Seven hundred and twenty diners +here sat down. Three thousand of Sydney's maids and matrons watched the +proceedings from the galleries on either side, and at a given signal +after the dinner, when the Prince proposed "The Ladies," there was a +sound like a vast flight of pigeons and three thousand Union Jacks +fluttered into the air. The ladies had responded for themselves. Crowds +blocked the wide streets for half a mile round the building, throughout +the whole of the proceedings, and took up the cheering again and again. +The toasts of the evening were honoured, not only in the banquet hall +itself, but by some hundred of thousands outside as well. + +Mr. Storey, the Premier of the Labour Government in power in New South +Wales, made a most cordial speech in proposing the Prince's health. He +described the Royal guest as a democrat in whose presence he felt no +embarrassment in speaking frankly. He welcomed him on behalf of New +South Wales, and declared that the Royal family had always shown +sympathy with the ideals for which Labour men everywhere stood. In the +course of his reply, the Prince said: "I realize to the full the great +part which New South Wales and Sydney have played, and must always play, +in the history of Australia. This wonderful city is the cradle of the +magnificent development which has made the Australian Commonwealth. The +whole thing started here, and in later days you were foremost in the +movement of ideas which led to federation. The greatest of all the +statesmen who first worked for federation, Henry Parkes, was a Sydney +man, and a Premier of New South Wales. The first Australian Prime +Minister, Sir Edmund Barton, also came from New South Wales. It is +amazing to think that New South Wales holds two-fifths of the population +of the whole Commonwealth and that Sydney holds more than half of the +population of New South Wales. That fact alone shows the vast +importance, not only to the Commonwealth, but to the future of the whole +Empire, of this state and its lovely capital. Sydney is indeed the +London of the Southern Hemisphere." + +It is characteristic of Australia that the Commonwealth banquet in +Sydney, at which the Prince subsequently made what was probably his +principal speech during the tour, was an outwardly less imposing +function than was the state dinner I have just described. The +Commonwealth banquet was given in one of the upper stories of a fine +building in Martin's Place erected under the direction of Sir Denison +Miller, founder of that great national organization the Commonwealth +Bank, which now handles the entire finances of the central Government, +including the raising of loans and the issue of currency. + +At the Commonwealth dinner the Governor-General presided and Mr. Hughes +made one of those felicitous speeches which have won him a European +reputation, though they are themselves surpassed by his lightning humour +and uncompromising common sense in the cut and thrust of debate. "Time," +he said, "circumstances, and the age-long struggles for freedom by men +who held liberty dearer than life, have fashioned the constitution under +which we live. The monarchy is an integral part of it. If Britain +decided to adopt a republican form of Government that would be the end +of the Empire as we know it to-day. The Empire has grown. It is, if you +like, the most illogical of institutions. It is composed of many free +nations very jealous of their own rights, and brooking no interference +with these. Yet, to the outside world, it is, in time of danger, one. +And the institution which binds all these together is the Monarchy of +England." The Prince in reply declared that there was no finer body of +men than those which Australia sent to represent her in the various +theatres of the war. He went on to sum up the aspirations of Australia +in the words of Sir Edmund Barton, "a continent for a nation, and a +nation for a continent," and evoked a storm of cheering when he +declared, "I am quite sure of one thing, that as Australia stands by the +Empire, so will the Empire stand by Australia for all time." + +The enthusiasm that characterized the Prince's entry into Sydney, and +the State and Commonwealth banquets given there in his honour, became if +possible more and not less accentuated as his visit wore on. Outstanding +everywhere was the tumultuous cordiality with which he was greeted by +enormous crowds. The same thing occurred at the races, at the gala +performance at His Majesty's Theatre, at the parade of returned men, at +a wonderful display by state school-children, also when he entered the +chief military hospital beneath an arch of crutches, and when fifty +thousand people passed before him in the town-hall. + +The whole was an experience which can never be forgotten by any of those +who had the good fortune to be there. The popular reception in the +town-hall was especially impressive. Here, standing on the dais in the +centre of this fine building, the Lord Mayor of Sydney alongside, and a +number of ministers, judges and soldiers, grouped about him, the Prince, +in plain grey jacket suit and soft brown hat, received the salutes of a +great multitude of men, women and children--the blind man led by +friends, the old lady who must see the Prince before she died, the baby +who would be able to say in years to come that it was present. The +people were shepherded past by members of the local police, for whose +patience and courtesy it is impossible to express too great admiration, +in one long, smiling, curtsying, hat-doffing stream. Numerous barriers +had been erected, but there was no crushing whatever. It was a +demonstration of orderliness and public spirit of the very best. + +Another picturesque function was where, under the twinkling pendants of +the big chandeliers in the ballroom of Sydney's Government House, +beneath the portrait of his ancestor George III, and before a brilliant +assemblage of naval and military officers, judges, ministers, civic +authorities, and members of consular bodies, the Prince shook hands with +several hundreds of representative men belonging to all sections and +communities of the Australian continent. Interesting also was the day he +spent amongst the young folk. It began with a visit to the Sydney +Cricket-Ground where twelve thousand children of the local Government +primary schools, headed by Mr. Mutch, Minister for Education, Mr. Board, +Director of Education, and Colonel Strong, Chairman of the Executive +Committee, organized and supervised a picturesque exhibition of physical +drill. The children deployed upon the grass in the centre, where they +went through evolutions and exercises, and arranged themselves so as to +form patriotic emblems and messages of welcome. Fifty thousand parents +and relations occupied gigantic stands around the ground and added a +bass to the treble of the children's cheering. + +Later on the Prince proceeded to the University. On the way he passed +through some of the less fashionable quarters of Sydney, where he was +warmly received by crowds consisting largely of artisans, amongst whom +his popularity seemed to grow each day he remained in Australia. At the +University, a place with fine buildings, in pleasant country +surroundings, on the outskirts of the city, he was cheered by some two +thousand undergraduates, five hundred girl students, and a big gathering +of graduates and members of their families. The great hall, with +stained-glass mullioned windows, dark grained timber roof and grey stone +walls, broken by a long array of mellowing oil portraits, where the +Chancellor, Sir William Cullen, read an address, recalled the beautiful +precincts of Christchurch, Oxford, upon which it appears to be designed. +The feeling of home was heightened, alike by stained-glass portraits of +Cardinal Wolsey and other famous founders of Oxford and Cambridge +colleges, and by the presence in the assemblage of a number of red and +black Oxford hoods amongst the grey ones worn by graduates of the Sydney +University. The gathering included a fine body of students in uniform, +many of them wearing war-decorations won overseas. The blue and gold +flag of the University corps occupied a place of honour at one end. + +Replying to the address, the Prince referred to the profoundly important +work the Sydney University was doing, and its splendid record in the +war, and went on to say: "The generation which faced the war ennobled +your traditions, fine as those already were, and left a great example of +personal service to the King and Empire for the present generation to +pursue." + +[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE GARDENS, NEW SOUTH WALES] + +[Illustration: PERTH, FROM THE KING'S PARK] + +Replying later to an undergraduate address read by Captain Allen, M.C., +the Prince said: "You have referred to my comradeship with your own two +thousand fellow students who went to the front in the great war, and I +assure you there is no part of my experience which I value more than my +long association with those gallant troops, both officers and men." +Concluding he said: "Many of you are now completing or beginning a +university course after service in the field. I hope that these will not +find themselves handicapped by the time they spent overseas." It was a +hope that perhaps the easier conditions and nearer prospects of young +life in Australia may well fulfil. In any case its expression was one of +the many graceful gestures of consideration that did so much to bring +the Prince close to the hearts of the people of that country. + + + + +XIV + +SOME COMMONWEALTH AFFAIRS + + +"One heritage we share though seas divide" surmounted one of the +decorated arches on the route traversed by the Prince on the day of the +military review at the Centennial Park, Sydney--a phrase no doubt, but +one that expressed the sentiment which pervaded this striking occasion. +Major-General Sir Charles Rosenthal commanded the parade, which included +a naval detachment under Lt.-Commander Patrick, a body of Light Horse +under Major-General Ryrie, and portions of five Divisions respectively +under Brigadiers Bennett, Martin, Jobson, Herring, and Christian. The +command was made up entirely of demobilized men, who, despite cold grey +weather on a full working day, had donned service uniform and +assembled--many of them from long distances--to do honour to the heir to +the Throne. The numbers present were not precisely ascertainable, as the +men were not under discipline, but had turned up of their own accord. +Estimates of how many attended therefore varied considerably, but any +number up to twenty thousand may have been there. + +When the Prince reached the ground he found the units drawn up in +formation about half a mile in length in front of him. Long lines of +bath-chairs and motors were on his left, filled with disabled men who +had been brought from sanatoria and hospitals in the districts around. +Behind him some thirty thousand spectators joined in the cheering. The +Prince went down the lines, shook hands with all the officers and spoke +to a number of the men. He also shook hands with every disabled soldier +present. The proceedings terminated with a general march past in column, +so arranged that the disabled men could see their old regiments go by. + +A sequel to the military review was a visit a few days later to Duntroon +College, the Sandhurst of Australia. Daylight on the shortest day in the +Australian mid-winter found the Royal train, now on the standard +four-feet-eight-inch gauge of New South Wales, speeding through dry, +rolling country, dotted with occasional blue gums beneath whose tattered +foliage sheep were picking a wholesome meal. Bright sunshine reminded +one that it was Australia, though the cold wind, which drove clouds of +dust and grit into our faces, might have been from a March east in +England. At the township of Queanbeyan, where the Prince changed into a +motor-car, the entire population had assembled and the usual ceremonies +of welcome were gone through. The country beyond Queanbeyan was open, +and barbed wire fences bounded the road on either side most of the way +to Duntroon, which proved to be a pleasant garden township of +white-walled houses, set upon a low hill amongst many trees. + +Senator Pearce, Commonwealth Minister for Defence, and General Legge, +Commandant of the College, with a group of red-tabbed field officers, +received the Prince on a sheltered lawn overlooking a wide grassy plain +reserved for aeroplane manoeuvres. Those presented included a number +of the professors whose rank between soldier and pedagogue was quaintly +expressed by their black mortar-boards and college gowns which only +partially concealed service uniforms and war-decorations. The Prince +afterwards saw the cadets at exercise in the gymnasium, and took the +salute of one hundred and twenty of them as they marched smartly past on +the parade ground. Addressing them afterwards in the big mess-hall at +the dinner-hour, he recalled the fine war history of the college, which +had lost no less than forty-eight of its students in battle, and was +cheered when he repeated the story of that gallant soldier General +Bridges, who had found his way from the Kingston Military College, in +Canada, to make a new Kingston in Duntroon, and to lead Duntroon's first +contingent of trained officers to Gallipoli, where he himself was +killed. + +It was dinner-time and "Carry on" was the word passed round to the +cadets, when H.R.H. had finished his speech, and the cheering had +momentarily died down. The soup was then served at all the tables, but +it must have grown cold while cheer after cheer followed the Prince as +he left the hall and re-entered his motor _en route_ for Canberra, a +place only a few miles distant. + +The way from Duntroon climbed slowly through undulating, park-like +country, dotted with blue gums, two thousand feet above sea level. +Freshly made roads, with water-pipes and sewers laid on, presently +indicated that the site of the much debated new capital of the +Commonwealth had been reached. The scene continued to be rural, however. +The pleasant stream, which meandered amongst willow trees and grassy +solitudes at the foot of the hill--where the Prince subsequently added a +foundation-stone to the already considerable number of these expressions +of hope and faith--might have been a hundred miles from civilization of +any kind. The little river gave to the scene that touch of verdure so +grateful in the dry and dusty bush, and one day will doubtless be +spanned by the arched bridges of the Commonwealth's capital. At present +it must be confessed that the metropolis is hardly more than a sketch of +itself, and a sketch that presents no very distinctive features. + +The importance of Canberra, however, is not to be judged from the +present condition of the site. As the Prince pointed out in his speech +at the ceremony, although the city still consists largely of +foundation-stones, this is chiefly because the war has delayed progress +with the scheme of construction. Mr. Groom, Commonwealth Minister for +Public Works, who presided, summed up the position when he said, +"Victory having been happily achieved, once more the mind of the nation +is reverting to the provision of a national seat of Government where +Australia will be mistress in her own house, and where there will be no +room for the complaint of provincial influence in pursuit of national +aims." The idea thus expressed that the Commonwealth administration +should have a territory of its own, away from the influence of any +individual state, holds the imagination of the majority of Australians. +It is an idea that has worked out satisfactorily alike in Canada and the +United States, where the circumstances, which justified the building of +Ottawa and Washington in the past, are essentially similar to those of +Australia to-day. The fact that India's endeavours at capital building +at Delhi may not yet have met with corresponding success, does not +affect the matter, since the conditions in a bureaucracy differ +essentially from those obtaining in the democratic association of +self-determining Dominions. + +Public opinion in Sydney supports the Canberra scheme on the practical +ground that it will bring the Commonwealth capital nearer to itself. +Melbourne is naturally lukewarm, since the present arrangement whereby +the central legislature meets there, so long as Canberra does not +materialize, is one that local pride desires to see continue as long as +possible. The remainder of the States, while not very actively +enthusiastic about a scheme which must necessarily divert a large sum of +public money from railway and other useful local projects, recognizes +that the atmosphere surrounding the Commonwealth Government would be +none the worse for being removed from the wire-pullings of state +politics. Scenic beauty, healthfulness, a good water-supply, and +accessibility to the two principal Commonwealth centres of population +and industry, combine to justify the choice of Canberra for the purpose +concerned, and the fact that a sum of some two million sterling of +public money has already been sunk in preparing the site, increases the +probability that the scheme will eventually be brought to completion. + +One of the party accompanying the Prince on his visit to Canberra was a +minister of state, who loved to tell how he had left his home in the +Canberra district on a push-bike to seek his fortune twenty years +before, now to return, in company with the Prince of Wales and as the +responsible head of an important Government department. Like every one +else who knows this part of the country, he overflowed with enthusiasm +as to the healthful prospects of its future. It was from him, I believe, +that the Prince first heard the ancient tale of the cemetery for which, +after long and infructuous waiting upon local necessity, the inhabitants +were driven to import a corpse from outside. That cemetery has served +many a rising town. It must be closed by now except for purposes of +historical research, but no doubt Canberra's claim to it will be +justified when the time comes. + +Another expedition from Sydney was by train and launch, up the +Hawkesbury river, and on to Newcastle. On this occasion the Prince was +accompanied by the entire New South Wales Labour Cabinet, including +Premier Storey. One of the features of the trip was a remarkable +demonstration on the part of the men working in the Sydney railway +sheds, who assembled in large numbers along the line, and shouted good +wishes as the Prince's train went out. Every engine in the big station +yard at the same time blew a shrill accord on its whistle, a choral +accompaniment which was as convincing as it was deafening. + +Addresses were presented, on the way, at the towns of Parramatta and +Windsor, while the residents, along fifty miles of the river traversed +by the Royal launch, assembled at the water's edge and waved flags and +cheered as the Prince went through what is probably one of the most +beautiful water-ways in the world. At Hawkesbury River Landing, where +the Prince rejoined the train and met a number of mothers and widows of +men fallen in the war, the entire station had been decorated by the +unpaid labour of those working upon the line. At Fassifern, which he +went through after nightfall, the entire valley was lighted up by +bonfires, and the station and wharf at the small township of Toronto, +where the Prince spent a night at the house of Mr. Duncan McGeachie, was +a fantasy of Chinese lanterns. + +The following morning the Prince received and replied to an address on +the local pier which juts out into the beautiful Macquarie lake. Here, +waving over his head, was a Canadian flag, presented to this Australian +namesake by the capital city of Ontario. From Toronto the Prince was +taken by train past a number of the pit-heads of one of the richest +mining districts in Australia, at that time supplying coal at the very +reasonable price of seventeen shillings per ton f.o.b. on the seaboard. +Every heap of slack and every railway truck, as the Prince's train went +by, had upon it a contingent of miners who cheered in a way to warm the +coldest heart. + +Newcastle, the second city of New South Wales, was reached at noon. The +Prince, on alighting, was received by the Mayor and Corporation, +supported by a smart guard-of-honour of naval cadets and an immense +crowd of spectators. He crossed the harbour by launch and landed on the +low marshy foreshore of Walsh Island. Here he shook hands with a long +line of returned men, employed in the shipbuilding yards, who gave him a +most cordial reception. Similar scenes were repeated, at least half a +dozen times in the course of the day, at the entrance to each set of +works. At Walsh Island, over which he was conducted by Mr. Estell, State +Minister of Works, and Mr. Cutler, General Manager, New South Wales +Shipbuilding, he launched a fine six-thousand-ton freight steamer, built +by state enterprise on behalf of the Commonwealth Government. The +launching was to have taken place at flood tide, but, owing to +postponement of the Prince's visit, had to be done at the ebb. A strong +west wind on the ship's quarter added to the difficulty of the +undertaking which was entirely overcome, the ship taking the water +beautifully. + +These vessels are an interesting example of state enterprise in New +South Wales. They are designed to carry produce away from Australia, and +to bring British emigrants back. There was at the time plenty of demand +for their services, as thousands of would-be settlers were awaiting +passages in the old country, and wheat was rotting in Australian +granaries that was badly wanted to reduce prices of bread in Europe. The +claim was made for them that they were being built at rates materially +lower than those offering for the construction of similar vessels in any +dockyard in the world at the time the contracts were given out. The +cost, I was told, ranged from £31 per ton until the last rise in wages +took place, which brought the rate up to about £35. At the time of the +Prince's visit no workman employed in the yard was receiving less than +fourteen shillings and fourpence daily, the average being very much +higher than this figure. The vessel launched was the fifth of six +uniform steamers under state construction. The four previously completed +had been rated "A1" at Lloyds. + +After leaving the Government dockyard, the Prince was taken over works +of private enterprise of even larger significance, the steel-furnaces, +rolling-mills and rod-mills of the Broken Hill Proprietary Company, +which are also located in Newcastle. Here he was conducted by Mr. +Delprat, general manager, and Mr. Baker, local manager, and saw the +whole of the processes, from the emptying of three open-hearth blast +furnaces, to the conversion of glowing molten steel into 72-lb. railway +rails, of which these works claim to have manufactured, last year, some +hundred and sixty thousand tons. The capacity of the works is very much +larger even than this amount, two separate strikes having reduced +out-turn in this period. The price paid for these rails by the various +state railways in Australia, which now depend almost entirely upon this +source of supply, was thirteen pounds per ton. I learnt also that the +average pay of the labour employed in the works was about one pound +sterling daily per man. The profit upon the £4,000,000 capital of the +concern is such that its one-pound shares were quoted in the Sydney +Stock Exchange the day the Prince went over the works at sixty-four +shillings apiece. + +After seeing the steel-works, the Prince was conducted by Mr. MacDougall +over a neighbouring wire and nail factory, which claims to be now +filling the entire demand of Australia for plain-wire fencing. The firm +was preparing to set up additional machinery upon a large scale to make +barbed wire which Australia has hitherto bought in Europe. The +significance of this development is considerable, since barbed wire +forms the top, as smooth wire does the lower strands, of fences of which +hundreds of thousands of miles are already in existence in Australia, +and millions of miles more have still to be built. + +After leaving the wire-works, the Prince drove in procession, through +decorated, crowded, cheering streets, to a sheltered park overlooking +the Pacific, where thirty thousand people had assembled and Mayor +Gibson read a civic address. In the course of his reply the Prince dwelt +upon the remarkable industrial development of Newcastle. "Your harbour," +he noted, "your shipping facilities and your manufactures have greatly +enhanced the importance this district has possessed from the earliest +date on account of its rich deposits of coal." + +Leaving Newcastle in the afternoon by train, the Prince returned to +Sydney through a pleasant land of tidy orange plantations and ragged +blue-gum bush. On the way he held a reception in the city of Gosford, +and saw further reaches of the beautiful Hawkesbury river. A record +crowd cheered him at Sydney railway station, and along the route to the +harbour where he rejoined the _Renown_. + + + + +XV + +WESTERN AUSTRALIA + + +The Prince went from Sydney two thousand miles by sea to Western +Australia, a state as large as the combined areas of England, France, +Germany, Austria, Spain, and Holland, with a population of less than +half a million people to develop this stupendous territory. + +On the way, in traversing the Australian Bight, that borders the +southern coast of the continent, the _Renown_ encountered weather +remarkably bad even for this region of frequent gales. Green seas swept +over forecastle and quarter-deck alike. The engines were slowed down. +The big ship strained, clanked, and groaned, but proved her +seaworthiness magnificently. The waves were still high in King George's +Sound outside Albany, where owing to shallow water the _Renown_ had to +lie four miles from land in a wide and but partially sheltered bay. +Where the shore could be seen it lay in rocky grass-grown hummocks, on +which the surf beat heavily. A picket boat conveyed the Prince and his +staff through a narrow entrance into the small landlocked harbour, where +they landed on a desolate pier, wet decorations flapping dismally in +cold wind and spray. The entire population had turned out, however, +despite the weather. The Governor of Western Australia, Sir Francis +Newdegate, the State Premier, Mr. Mitchell, and a number of other +members of the Government awaited the Prince upon the pier. The Mayor of +Albany read an address from a wind-swept platform in front of a town +hall prominently situated on a low hill facing a wide street that led +down to the harbour. The crowd here was a varied one. It included +traders, merchants, commission-agents, and manufacturers belonging to +Albany itself, also large numbers of fruit-growers and farmers from +stations in the interior of this prosperous land of orchards and +wheatfields. Gatherings of returned soldiers and school children, also +nurses and other war-workers flanked the general assemblage. A night +train journey followed through rolling country and bush, with arable +fields, apple orchards and orange gardens which looked most attractive +next morning in brilliant sunshine in the freshest of rain-washed air. + +The Prince was cheered by gatherings at many wayside stations, including +Parkerville, where a number of children, in charge of gentle-faced +sisters in black robes, sang patriotic songs in the chill morning air as +the train went through. About noon he alighted at Perth, capital of +Western Australia, an extraordinarily beautiful city, with wide streets +and solid masonry houses, situated on the low banks of the picturesque +Swan River--here so wide as to be almost a lagoon. + +The streets were decorated and lined with cheerful people. Those who +received the Prince included the Governor, the State Premier, the Mayor, +Mr. Lathlain, the Chief Justice, Sir R. MacMillan, the leader of the +State Opposition, Mr. P. Collier, the Chairman of the Reception +Committee, General Sir Talbot Hobbs, also most of the other members of +the local houses of Parliament and of the Perth municipal corporation. +The Prince went through the usual inspection of naval and military +guards-of-honour, and then proceeded by motor-car through the city, +which looked delightfully fresh in bright winter sunshine. The crowd was +lined up behind wooden barriers on either side of a lane kept by +blue-jackets from H.M.A.S. _Sydney_, also men of the Royal Australian +Naval Reserve, and returned soldiers, cadets and scouts. The route taken +was some two miles in length. It lay through the principal business and +residential streets, the crowd extending the entire distance, clapping, +cheering, laughing and flag-waving as the Prince went by. The procession +disappeared inside the shady grounds of Government House, a place of +green lawns and rose-bushes blossoming in the shade of banana-trees and +Insignis pines. + +Later on H.R.H. visited the principal theatre, where he addressed +several thousand returned sailors, soldiers and nurses. He congratulated +them on their services, alike during the war and since their return +home, where they had shown that they stood for the maintenance of law +and order. From the theatre the Prince went on to a big civic luncheon +in the Town Hall, where Mayor Lathlain told an appreciative audience of +their guest's keen personal interest in the welfare of the people of the +Dominions. He also mentioned the fact that the Prince had come as +representing "the dear old Motherland, the heart of the Empire, the land +upon whose Navy so largely depends Australia's ability to carry on her +peaceful avocations." H.R.H. was loudly cheered when he rose to reply, +and his pleasant little speech evoked the greatest enthusiasm. He +felicitated Perth and Western Australia generally upon their wonderful +progress, of which much had been achieved within the memory of the +present generation. He said he knew Western Australia's record in the +Great War, and desired also to congratulate its women--alike those who +had gone abroad and those who had worked at home. An investiture at +Government House and a State ball completed the day's work. + +The visit to Perth lasted about a week. It had several memorable +features, among them a review, when, in a wide thoroughfare bordered by +pleasant residences bearing such British names as Ilfracombe, Warwick +House, and St. George's Terrace, the Prince stood, framed in a +background of crowded grandstands, taking the salutes of a number of +thousands of Australians, including a solid contingent of blue-jackets, +a yet larger one of returned soldiers, some in khaki, some in mufti, +cohorts of cadets and boy scouts, both naval and military, phalanxes of +red cross nurses in smart white dresses, and girl guides in a dense +column of blue, followed by what seemed an endless procession of +children, every school within ten miles of Perth being represented. + +From the review the Prince went to Mayor Lathlain's "people's +garden-party" in the National Park. Here upon a dais beneath a statue of +his great grandmother, Queen Victoria, in the shelter of big +timber-trees, commanding a magnificent view of the city and the river, +he stood for an hour while the people of Perth streamed past in column. +Babies were carried pick-a-back on their fathers' shoulders, men doffed +hats, mothers and daughters waved hands, handkerchiefs or flags, as +they passed. One old lady delayed the line to shake hands with him, but +accepted the Admiral's clasp as a makeshift, the Prince being too busy +taking off his hat and returning eight smiles at a time to have a hand +to spare. Everybody was so engrossed gazing at the visitor, every head +turning on its neck for a long backward glance after the dais had been +passed, that hardly an eye was drawn off when a noisy aeroplane, which +had been stunting unnoticed in the Prince's honour overhead, suddenly +swooped out of intolerable oblivion to within a hundred feet of him. + +A further notable function was the State banquet at Perth Government +House. Here were present all the leaders of thought and enterprise in +Western Australia, politicians, administrators, squatters, settlers, +traders, naval and military commanders, ministers, judges, ten V.C.'s, +and everybody else who counted. Grace was said by that soldierly +episcopal, Archbishop Riley, who, as a Chaplain-in-Chief of the +Australian forces in the field, is known and loved from one end of +Australia to the other. The Prince's health was proposed by Premier +Mitchell. After it had been drunk with the usual cheering and waving of +napkins, H.R.H. made a speech. "Your policy," he said, "is to draw +settlers from the old country, at the same time ensuring that they shall +not suffer from lack of experience when they are first put upon the land +of their adopted country. I am delighted to hear that you are giving to +Imperial ex-service men the same chance of starting life upon the land +when they arrive in this state, as you give your own diggers. I can +think of no more admirable way than this of continuing the splendid +traditions of the war and maintaining our united British spirit." It +was a note which has often been sounded since to appreciation and +applause throughout the Empire. + +One of the expeditions made from the state capital was by launch down +the wide placid reaches of the Swan River, still the haunt of the black +swan, emblem of Western Australia, to hold a reception at the port of +Fremantle, some ten miles distant, where the river joins the sea. No +black swans graced the occasion, only an occasional porpoise leapt +alongside the launch as it entered the estuary. The entire population of +the countryside lined the banks as the vessel went past, every village, +settlement, and factory _en route_ contributing its quota, which in the +case of saw-mills, cold-storage plant and electricity works, consisted +almost entirely of workmen. + +Arrived at Fremantle the entire city was found awaiting the Prince, +crowding the pier and lined up along the streets. Naval and military +guards-of-honour, with bands, saluted. The chairman and members of the +Harbour Trust and the Mayor and members of the city council stood +bare-headed as he made his landing. From the pier he was conducted in +procession, first to a picturesque display by thousands of children, and +afterwards to the big "Anzac" military hospital where convalescent +patients were drawn up with doctors and nurses outside, and where the +warmth of the cheers that came from the wards, where he went round the +beds of those too ill to move, was more than touching. + +Speaking later at a civic luncheon, the Prince looked forward to +Fremantle's eventually becoming one of the leading harbours in the +Empire, the importance of its position as the first port of call on the +western seaboard being emphasized by the completion of the +trans-continental railway. Returning to Perth later in the afternoon by +motor-car, he was taken through the magnificent National Park, a +well-kept forest upland, full of fine timber, including a whole avenue, +each individual tree dedicated to some West Australian soldier fallen in +the war. Just before entering this park, the Prince passed some +thousands of children drawn from schools in the Cottesloe, Claremont and +Subiaco municipal areas, who stood hardily in the rain in the open to +wave their flags and sing their patriotic songs. + +Still another rewarding expedition was by car to some of the fruit +gardens near Perth. Orange groves in the dips and apple orchards on the +rising slopes made odd neighbours. The apple-trees were bare, but +oranges hung in the golden profusion of Malta or Seville. Fifty acres of +this fruit in some cases meant a clear income of over a thousand pounds +per annum to the fortunate owner after paying for all labour other than +his own. The orchard zone was near the coast. Further inland is one of +the wide wheat-belts which feed Australia and furnish a surplus for +Great Britain. Beyond this again begin the cattle-stations of the Great +North-West. Perth was buzzing with the Great North-West. A commission +composed of parliamentarians and publicists had just returned, loaded +with information and optimism, from a two-thousand mile expedition +through it by motor. In addition the highways were blocked and the views +were obscured by mountainous men, full of deep cocktails and deliberate +conversation, who had descended from this region for the occasion of the +Prince's visit. Some of these genial giants worked, as private pasture, +areas ranging to over two million acres. They seemed in themselves a +sufficient indication of what the country could produce, and an adequate +reason for railway enterprise in their direction. In this state land +nationalizes may note the character of the movement towards small +holdings. It has recently been laid down that no peasant or other +proprietor shall obtain a fresh grant of more than one million acres. +Not a long step toward communistic property, but possibly a beginning. + + + + +XVI + +WHEAT, GOLD, AND LOGGING + + +The state saw-mills and logging-camps of Pemberton, about a hundred +miles southward along the coast, made an important fixture from Perth. +On this occasion the Prince was accompanied by the Premier and other +members of the West Australian State Government and was conducted by Mr. +Humphries, state saw-mills manager. He was taken over mills where the +enduring Karri trees in trunks sixty feet long and seven feet through +were being sliced by revolving saws into uniform railway sleepers for +export. He also made his way, in heavy rain, partly by railway and +partly on foot, up gorges of great natural beauty in the heart of a +dripping forest, himself took a hand with sinewy axe-men and sturdy +sawyers, in the felling of these giant trees, and saw their subsequent +extraction from swampy thickets by teams each comprising, in some cases, +twenty-four splendid locally bred Clydesdale horses, in others a score +and a half of equally fine Australian bullocks. + +In the presence of a gathering of the entire logging force and their +wives and children, who gave him the most cordial reception, the Prince +afterwards presided at a local log-chopping contest in which champion +woodmen from all parts of Western Australia competed. The excitement of +the forest community of onlookers was intense, and considerable sums +changed hands upon the result. The men were given trunks of as nearly as +possible equal thickness and hardness to hew through. The less +proficient received a certain number of seconds' start. Axes fell with +marvellous rapidity and precision, slices rather than chips flew +incredible distances in pre-ordained directions--it was a remarkable +exhibition of muscle rivalling machinery. One of the long-handicap men +eventually won from the scratch competitor, a magnificent young giant +who was about a second behind. The logs cut through were about fifteen +inches in diameter. Most of the axes used bore the names of American +manufacturers, and had edges still razor-like after the contest was +over. + +A fine exhibition of table-vegetables, grown in pockets in the +neighbouring hills, was also shown to the Prince. Rich land close to the +railway suitable for market-gardening and already cleared is to be had +in this region, it seems, at £25 per acre. It is claimed to produce per +acre from six to nine tons of potatoes, which were fetching on the spot +£12 per ton. The principal prize-winner was a Scotch gardener, who told +the Prince he had come but six years previously without any capital +whatever, and that his holding was now clear of debt and valued at +£1,300. + +On the way back to Perth the Prince had his first and only experience +during the tour of a railway accident. Speaking of it in a reply to the +toast of his health at a public dinner at Perth, a few days after it +occurred, Premier Mitchell expressed thankfulness that the Prince had +escaped unhurt. His Royal Highness in reply treated the matter from a +humorous point of view. He did not regret, he said, to have been able to +add a harmless railway accident to his Australian experiences. The +mishap was very much nearer to being a disastrous one, however, than +this would suggest. It occurred on a single-track, three-foot-six-inch +line, in swampy Westralian forest, some ten miles from the township of +Bridgetown. The Royal train was a heavy one, consisting of some nine +corridor sleeping coaches. It had passed over the spot, which was on a +curve, the same morning on the way to Pemberton. Heavy rain fell in the +course of the day, and on the return journey at about three o'clock in +the afternoon, the track had become so soft that the rails gave way. + +The train was, fortunately, only going at about fifteen miles an hour at +the time, having had to slow down owing to cattle on the lines. The rear +saloon, which was occupied by H.R.H. and Admiral Halsey, seems to have +been the first to leave the line. The saloon immediately in front, which +contained the remainder of the Royal staff and most of the state party, +afterwards followed it. The derailed wheels then bumped along over the +sleepers, which they cut up in the most complete manner, the line for +two hundred and thirty yards being converted into a tangled mass of +twisted rails and broken splinters. The engine-driver felt the jolting +and applied the brakes. This happily took the way off the train, for a +moment later the two derailed vehicles rolled over the soft embankment, +here a couple of feet high, and lay on the ground below, all their +wheels in the air. The train came to a standstill, the coupling between +the wrecked and the unwrecked portions remaining intact. The Prince and +his staff were still inside. Heads quickly appeared through windows now +pointing to the sky, and the occupants of the front saloons, who had +hastily jumped out, learnt to their relief that nobody had been +seriously hurt. One after another the members of the Royal party, +including the Premier and other state ministers, were extricated through +the windows, now the only means of egress. + +While this was happening smoke began to issue from the first of the two +overturned saloons. Investigation showed that this was from the cooks' +galley, which, in falling, had set the saloon on fire. The flames were +promptly extinguished with water brought from the portion of the train +still upon the rails. Ten minutes later the Prince, who had declined to +move till he had collected his overturned papers, cheerfully climbed +out, being thus, sailor-like, the last to leave the wreck. He had been +talking to Admiral Halsey when the derailment took place, and was pinned +between overturned pieces of furniture when the coach rolled over, thus +escaping falling through the plate-glass window, a thing which occurred +to several members of the party, including the Premier. The only person +at all materially hurt, however, was Surgeon-Commander Newport, the +Prince's doctor, who cut his shin rather badly when he went through the +window, an incredibly small casualty list for the nature of the +accident. + +All the fittings that were movable flew through the air when the upset +took place. A large mirror in the Prince's compartment was amongst the +articles which crashed to the ground. The mix-up and disorder of broken +furniture, crockery and luggage inside was most complete. + +The Prince himself, at the time as later, made nothing of the matter. He +caught up a cocktail-mixer as he climbed through his overturned dining +saloon, and waved it out of the window by which he extricated himself. +He congratulated the Chief of the Staff, with mock seriousness, at +having at last arranged something for him that was not on the official +programme. He laughed away the anxious expressions of regret of the +railway and other state officials responsible in the affair, and did his +utmost to convey the impression that the overturning of the Royal train +was an occurrence so trifling as to be hardly worth mentioning. + +The party were soon transferred to the front portion of the train which +was still upon the rails. The wreckage was cut loose, and the journey +was continued to Bridgetown, the next halting place on the programme. +Here the Prince carried through, in the most undisturbed manner, the +whole of the prearranged ceremonial of inspecting guards-of-honour, +shaking hands with returned soldiers, greeting relations of the fallen, +receiving war-workers, reviewing assemblies of children, and replying to +a municipal address. He made no mention of the railway accident in his +speech, but excused himself for having arrived late, as if this had been +due to a fault of his own. + +It was not possible, however, to prevent the circulation of news of the +occurrence, and it made a sensation throughout Australia. Telegrams of +congratulation at his escape poured in from every state and principal +town. Thanksgiving services were held in the leading churches, and +everywhere it was recognized that what might have been a disaster had +been very narrowly avoided, and that the Prince had shown much spirit +in a situation of no little danger. His return to Perth was a triumphal +procession. Every wayside station was crowded with cheering people as +the train ran through. Perth received him with open arms. A bigger +assemblage than ever welcomed him as he drove from the railway station +to Government House, and the crowd plainly showed its impression that he +had taken a bit of rough luck in the best Australian manner. + +Finally departing from Perth, a few days later, the Prince was sped on +his way by large cheering crowds which not only lined the streets as he +drove to the railway station, but every wayside platform as well. The +route soon left the plain by the seashore and entered foothills clothed +with shady _jarrah_ forest. Thence it mounted to the spacious uplands of +the green rolling wheat-zone, where the young crop carpeted the expanse +for a hundred miles along the way. + +West Australia raises some twelve million bushels of wheat annually, of +which nine millions are exported. It is estimated that the out-turn could +be increased to forty million bushels if more population were available, +as thirty-four million acres have been reported suitable for wheat +growing in this state, and eleven bushels per acre are looked upon as an +average yield. A thousand acres, which can be secured on very easy +terms, is an average holding. Such a farm worked by one man would +ordinarily have three hundred acres under wheat, and would also support +two hundred and fifty sheep. Many properties of this kind are in the +hands of owners who began without either capital or education, yet have +paid off all mortgages and are living in very substantial comfort. The +children start under infinitely more favourable circumstances than +their parents, for not only are savings usually available to establish +them in business on their own account, but they have the advantage of an +excellent system of state-aided education which provides a school +wherever a minimum of ten children can be brought together. Public help +is also given to pay for qualified resident teachers in localities too +isolated to enable the minimum school to be assembled. A mileage +allowance is paid by the State for children who have to travel any +considerable distance to school. Education department correspondence +courses are also conducted with surprisingly satisfactory results for +the benefit of youngsters on farms out of reach of any of the other aids +to learning. It is not only the children who benefit. Their parents +often learn much themselves in endeavouring to help their families to +assimilate the lessons that the correspondence teacher at a distance is +sending by post to the schoolroom under the hayrick or by the evening +fire. + +An hour after leaving Perth the track picked up the Kalgoorlie water +main, which thereafter ran beside the rails, a half-buried steel conduit +thirty inches thick, all the way to the goldfields. This water main is +one of the most wonderful in the world. It daily delivers at the mines +five million gallons of pure water, after conveying it 350 miles from +the Mundaring Reservoir. This reservoir has a masonry weir a hundred +feet high, which has been built right across a river-valley, thereby +impounding the water and forming a lake seven miles long, holding four +seasons' supply. The difficulty of building the works was much increased +by the height up which the water has to be forced in the course of its +journey. In all, the pipe-line climbs 1,290 feet between Mundaring +Reservoir and Bulla Bulling, the highest point upon the circuit, a lift +which requires some of the most powerful pumps in the world to +negotiate. The installation is essential for the people of Kalgoorlie, +whose city is in the midst of the desert, with no other source of supply +fit for human consumption, as the water that accumulates in the mine +workings is definitely brackish, though cattle will drink it in some +cases. + +Fine rain shaded off into showers as the train proceeded eastward. +Further on grey skies were replaced by brilliant sunshine. The country +grew continually drier; wheatfields changed into scraggy forest. The +forest thinned out and was succeeded by vast expanses of nondescript +scrub and desolate bluish salt bush, through which the train sped +throughout the night. When the Prince awoke the following morning he was +in desert country. Coolgardie, his first stepping-off place, proved to +be a dying city. Its original sixteen thousand inhabitants are now +represented by only a few hundreds. The majority have moved to the still +active mines of Kalgoorlie. Many lie in France, for no community +enlisted more freely or fought more bravely than did the men of this +far-off town. All that were left had turned out to meet the Prince. It +was a curious assemblage, largely consisting of men past work and women +and children, who still cling to wooden shanties fast falling into +decay, amidst spoil heaps and ruins of fine public buildings, a great +place once but a sad spectacle now. The big water main enters +Coolgardie, and is sparingly tapped there, but its contents are too +precious to be used for irrigation by the way, and without water for +this purpose it was impossible for Coolgardie to follow the example of +Ballarat in turning its miners into cultivators when the gold gave out. +The shy buzzard of the desert now perches fearlessly where once was +heavy traffic. The wild dingo has come in from the plains, and makes its +home in what were once busy crushing mills and palatial business houses. +Soon sand will cover what remains, and the salt bush will be supreme as +aforetime. + +Kalgoorlie, where the Prince next alighted, proved to be a very +different place. Here twenty-four thousand people were living in +prosperity, and are likely to continue in this position so long as their +reef goes on yielding its harvest of yellow ore. The visitor was +welcomed by a big crowd, including a large body of returned soldiers, of +whom two wore the Victoria Cross. He was given a cheerful luncheon by +the Chamber of Mines, at which the large company present were waited on +by daughters of the principal residents, who prepared, cooked and served +a banquet which could not have been surpassed anywhere. In the course of +his reply to a civic address later on, "I am looking forward," the +Prince said, "to my stay in this wonderful goldbearing area. I have +heard with admiration of the pioneering pluck and engineering skill +which have enabled this great city to be built and provided with all the +necessary services of a large population in country where water is so +scarce. I particularly prize the opportunity of making acquaintance with +the people who have placed this miracle of development to the credit of +British industry and enterprise. I am also much interested in the +terminus of the great Trans-Australian Railway which links you with the +eastern States of the Commonwealth." + +Before leaving Kalgoorlie the Prince visited workings on the forty-foot +thick reef of the "golden mile" which is being gradually nibbled away. +This reef, since its discovery a quarter of a century ago, has produced +seventy-four million sterling of gold. The profit of working it has not +kept pace with the increased cost of labour and machinery, but continues +to be appreciable, and large masses of paying quartz are still in +sight. + + + + +XVII + +THE NULLARBOR PLAIN + + +At Kalgoorlie the Prince left the simply equipped three-feet-six-inch +gauge of the West Australian State Railway, and continued his journey, +at forty miles an hour, on a luxuriously fitted and smooth-running train +on the standard gauge of the Trans-Australian line. + +In charge of the train was Mr. Norris Bell, the eminent engineer who +controlled the construction of the line, and is now running it in such a +way that, despite almost total absence of local traffic, it is nearly +paying its working expenses, a remarkable achievement considering the +desolate nature of the country through which it passes. The railway +connects the populous States of Victoria, New South Wales and South +Australia, with the vast and potentially rich, but presently +undeveloped, western territories. It is one of those imaginative +national enterprises undertaken by young countries, and is bound to be +justified by the generous policy of land development which usually +accompanies, though at present it draws its dividends from the future. + +The Nullarbor plain through which it passes is so devoid of rain that it +not only possesses no streams, but its level expanse is unscarred by +even a dry water-course. It is almost absolutely flat for several +hundreds of miles, after which it undulates slightly, the folds being in +some cases occupied by lakes or tanks, most of which are so salt that +they are useless for either drinking or irrigation. Their banks form +desolate patches of gleaming white on the horizon, owing to the +crystallization of masses of salt upon them. In places where fresh water +is obtainable, it has usually to be pumped up from some depth below +ground. Wells are so far between that the train has to carry tanks large +enough to water the engine for two hundred miles without replenishment. + +The portion of the plain in which the Prince found himself, the morning +after leaving Kalgoorlie, was of red earth thickly sprinkled with white +stones of irregular shape, shaded by bunchy grey salt-bushes the size of +cabbages. These salt-bushes, dry and dusty as they appear, afford quite +good fodder for sheep. The plain, therefore, almost entirely rainless as +it is, only requires the provision of drinking-water to enable it to be +put to profitable use. Sheep-stations already exist upon it, wherever it +has been found possible to tap subsoil water sweet enough for the sheep +to drink, and with growing knowledge of this remarkable region, and +improved methods of purifying saline springs, it is hoped gradually to +convert much of what is now unproductive into sheep-raising areas. + +As the train rushed onward through the day, the stones became smaller +and eventually disappeared, and the salt-bushes grew gradually larger. +One lost the impression of moving through an interminable cabbage patch, +and felt as on a ship. The salt-bushes rippled over a calm expanse of +ocean extending on all sides to a far horizon. + +In the afternoon a halt was made and the Prince alighted and paid a +visit to a rude encampment of aborigines, who had travelled a hundred +miles on foot to meet him. They performed a number of weird ceremonial +dances before him, and gave an exhibition of their skill in the throwing +of boomerangs and spears. The performers were almost completely naked +men and boys, painted all over with red and other brilliant patches on a +whitish ground, whose only garment was a scanty rag of dirty cotton +cloth that could hardly be said even to encompass the waist. The dances +were slow, the performers sometimes stealing in single file round a +circle, sometimes springing as if to the attack, the while incantations +were chanted by miserable bundles of savage humanity, feminine as well +as masculine, who squatted upon the ground. The boomerang-throwing was a +much more lively affair. The air hummed with sharp wooden blades the +size and weight of reaping-hooks. About a dozen performers operated +simultaneously and each threw quite a number of these blades in quick +succession to immense heights, where they hovered like hawks, eventually +to descend with uncanny speed in a series of crooked swirls and +side-long rushes. The circles described were such that quite a wide area +was swept by flying blades each of which travelled on a complicated +orbit of its own, of extraordinary speed, the sharp edge continually +leading. It was explained that these boomerangs were of the hunting +type, and were used in practice chiefly against flights of duck, the +birds taking them for hawks and keeping low and thus within range +when they were in the air. The spear-throwing was also interesting. The +spears consisted of straight wooden shafts, like slim but heavy +bean-sticks, with a tapering charred point sharpened to acuteness, and +tail winged with a thin wooden slip the size of a biggish paper-knife. +These spears were thrown with marvellous force and precision, with an +action like that of overhand bowling, a sack stuffed with salt-bush +branches and crudely painted to represent a human face, being transfixed +again and again, in the centre, at sixty yards. These wretched people +appear to be rapidly dying out despite liberal grants from the +Commonwealth and State Governments to educate and feed them. In the +south they seem to be entirely incapable of learning even how to cook or +wash or build themselves shelters. In the north they are less degraded +and find employment on cattle-stations where some of them make excellent +stock-drivers, learning to ride well and handle animals. + +[Illustration: CROSSING THE NULLARBOR PLAIN] + +[Illustration: ABORIGINAL DANCE] + +The camp visited by the Prince was typical of the lowest amongst them. +It was being looked after by a cultivated Australian lady who was +devoting herself to the services of these poor creatures, who seemed to +be entirely dependent upon her, so incapable were they of fending for +themselves in any practical manner beyond that of adding to the larder +by the killing of a limited number of small animals. When left to +themselves, we were told, they seldom had more than twenty-four hours' +food supply within sight. Their intelligence does not even extend to the +keeping of provisions when supplied with them in any quantity beyond +what they can devour upon the spot. + +Another picturesque incident occurred about sunset, when the train +stopped at an artesian boring to take in a fresh supply of water. Here +some twenty well-conditioned camels were grazing upon the salt-bushes, +in charge of two intelligent natives of Rawalpindi, India. These +turbaned Punjabis, who spoke Hindustani with a distinct Australian +accent, so long had they been in the country, were marching the camels +overland to Western Australia, where they hoped to sell them at a good +price for transport work in the bush. The men had evidently prospered. +They said they had found Australia a good country, though they looked +forward to retiring eventually to their own land. Several Eurasian +children were with them. It was a reminder of those racial problems of +which the people of Australia take constant thought when they determine +to develop the natural resources of their wonderful land, as far as may +be, by white labour alone. It is no disparagement of the Oriental to say +that he is at his best when he is entirely of the East, just as the +white man is at his best when he mates with those of his own country and +race, a point upon which Australia, at all events, is thoroughly +convinced. + + + + +XVIII + +SOUTH AUSTRALIA + + +The Prince alighted at sundown at the shipping centre Port Augusta, at +the head of Spencer gulf, and was welcomed to South Australia by Mr. +Barwell, State Premier, and other members of the Cabinet. A civic +reception was held, and the party changed over from the standard gauge +train of the Trans-Australian Railway, into a train on the narrow gauge +of South Australia, which was standing in the station profusely +decorated for the occasion. A start was then made on the two hundred and +sixty miles that lay between that point and Adelaide, throughout the +whole of which distance, we afterwards learnt, a guard had been placed +on every bridge and culvert. The people of South Australia were in no +mind that the Prince should run the risk of further accident. + +Civic receptions, at which numbers of returned men and other war workers +were drawn up, and all the inhabitants turned out, were given at various +places _en route_, including Quorn, Peterborough, Terowie, and Gawler. +The first part of the way was over the picturesque Pichirichi pass, +thirteen hundred feet above sea level. After descending on the other +side the narrow gauge gave place to the broad five-feet-three-inch +track, which connects Adelaide with Melbourne. Sir Archibald Weigall, +Governor of South Australia, soon afterwards joined the train. The +latter part of the route was through flat and extraordinarily fertile +farming country. + +Adelaide was reached about noon. Here a large proportion of the +inhabitants of the province had assembled to welcome the Prince. A +procession was formed at the railway station, where guards-of-honour +were drawn up. The Prince shared a motor with Sir Archibald Weigall. Mr. +Barwell and other members of the South Australian Government occupied +cars behind. A well-mounted escort of light horse, in khaki, jingled on +either side. The entire route, some three miles in length through the +principal streets, had been elaborately decorated, and was lined ten +deep the whole way with cheerful crowds. Entering the spacious and +solidly built King George's Street, where magnificent bodies of Flying +Corps, Engineers, Naval Reserve, and other returned men kept the +barricades, the Prince was greeted by numbers of lady war-workers, in +fresh white uniforms, who had public-spiritedly reopened, for the +benefit of the blue-jackets and marines on the various visiting +war-vessels, the "Cheer-up club" which did such good service during the +war. Cadets, red cross workers, and masses of medalled returned men +lined the space opposite the town hall, where Mayor Moulder read a civic +address, to which the Prince replied, describing his now nearly +half-completed travels in the Commonwealth as a most memorable +experience, a statement heartily endorsed by all who shared them. From +the town hall the procession went on to the working-men's quarter, +where the reception was as enthusiastic as anywhere. It was also +noticeable that although only school-children, of whom there were +incredible numbers, lined the route for at least half a mile in this +part of the city, order was as well kept as in thoroughfares elsewhere, +where regulars or volunteers were lined up. + +Outside the big market in Rendal Street, beneath a wide arch built on +one side with vegetables, and on the other with apples and oranges, a +pretty function occurred, a little girl, daughter of the oldest gardener +doing business with the market, presenting the Prince with a bouquet, +and a small boy, the son of the oldest packer, with a basket of fruit, +offerings that symbolized pleasantly enough the very considerable +business done in South Australia in garden produce. + +Further on, in North Terrace, a more touching spectacle was presented +where hundreds of beds from the hospitals, each with a nurse in +attendance, lined the route, and the Prince paused for a word of +greeting with the patients. Medical students, apprentices, and yet more +cadets, were lined up near the fine stone buildings of the Art Gallery, +the University and the Exhibition, which are here grouped together. The +procession ultimately entered and ended in the quiet gardens of +Government House, where H.R.H. was to spend the week of his visit. + +Amongst functions which took place at Adelaide during the next few days, +was a state dinner at the leading hotel, at which three hundred sat +down, including everybody of importance in the South Australian +Government. Mr. Barwell proposed, and Mr. Gunn, spokesman of the Labour +Party, and Leader of the Opposition in the State Legislature, seconded +the toast of the Prince's health. The Prince replied and the proceedings +throughout were of the usual cordial nature. A climax was reached after +the dinner was over, and it was time for the Royal guest to get home to +bed. It was then discovered that the streets outside were so solidly +packed with people that it was quite impossible either for the +motor-cars to reach the door or for the party to walk to where they were +posted. The Prince was brought back into the building, whence he +addressed the crowd, at first from an upper window, and afterwards from +a roof on which he climbed so as to be nearer the throng. In the end, a +way out was found through a side street, by a door much affected by +bridal couples. + +In the course of his speech at this dinner, the Prince referred +sympathetically to the recent death of Premier Peake. He went on to +express appreciation of the welcome given him by Adelaide, "the garden +city of the Commonwealth," and dwelt upon the fine war-services of South +Australia, and the magnificent opportunities which this State offers for +development. He also mentioned the extent to which the future of +Australia, as a whole, depends upon a broad far-seeing railway policy, a +railway policy in fact "that is continental in scope." Continuing he +expressed regret at having been compelled to omit his originally +proposed overland journey from South Australia to Queensland, and +announced that, to make this up, it had now been decided, in +consultation with the Queensland Government, to substitute at least one +week in the back-blocks or interior of Australia, for the proposed visit +to the new mandated territory at Rabaul. "I am very sorry," the Prince +added, "to have had to cut out Rabaul, but as I had to choose between +the two I am delighted to think I shall now be able to spend some days +in seeing bush and station life for myself in the real heart of +Australia." This decision met with general approval. Rabaul stands for +the mandated territory of tropical New Guinea, formerly in German +possession, and now allocated to the Commonwealth. It is a territory +bigger than England and Wales but only sparsely inhabited, partially +developed, and with no specially outstanding features. No interest it +offers could compare with that of Australia itself. + +The next few days were busy ones, public functions succeeding one +another almost continuously, and acres of close-packed crowds assembling +wherever it was announced that the Prince was to be present. On one +occasion he unveiled a fine bronze statue of the late King Edward. On +another he conversed with an assemblage of blinded soldiers. One of the +most picturesque of his experiences was when four thousand women +war-workers, including nurses, members of Cheer-up clubs, +motor-ambulance drivers, comforts workers, and members of the Mothers' +League marched past him in solid battalions, many of them bearing +stripes indicative of five years' public service, and some the badge +which stood for son or husband killed at the front. The scene of +enthusiasm will long be remembered when he told them he hoped that they, +like the diggers, would all look upon him as a comrade. It was a thing +he said often but never too often. + +The Prince also made expeditions into the surrounding country, which +has a climate like that of Italy, the vineyards climbing the terraced +hills around Adelaide enhancing the resemblance. He here made the +acquaintance of the Australian wine industry, which continues to prosper +and expand, despite the new and devastating form of drought that +threatens it throughout the world. The difficulties of the trade are +considerable. The Australian is not himself a wine-bibber. His +intoxicant is whisky and his stimulant is tea. Withal he is a very +temperate person. No great home market, therefore, is at hand for the +native wines, and in spite of an excellence in many brands which must in +the long run establish them, the European importer still shows only a +modified confidence in stocking them to the displacement of the better +known labels of Southern Europe. Six million gallons annually, however, +are being drunk somewhere. + +On the day of the Prince's departure from Adelaide, eight thousand state +school-children and forty-five thousand spectators said good-bye to him +in brilliant sunshine, on the Adelaide cricket-ground. From the +cricket-ground he proceeded to the University, where the degree of +D.C.L. was conferred upon him. Thence through large crowds, which had +waited hours for his passing, and greeted him when he appeared with +friendly shouts of "Good-bye, Digger," he went to the railway station, +and proceeded by train to Port Adelaide. Here a local civic address was +presented, and yet another large gathering of children, returned men and +war-workers cheered him. The Royal train eventually went on, down the +Port Adelaide main street, which was black with people, to the outer +harbour wharves, where Sir Archibald Weigall, Mr. Barwell, Mr. Moulden, +and other leading men of South Australia went on the _Renown_ and said +good-bye, the Prince ultimately sailing for Tasmania. + + + + +XIX + +TASMANIA + + +The Prince's reception at Hobart, Tasmania, was a great popular +occasion. Decorations had been kept up and renewed since the preceding +month, when the visit was originally to have taken place, and were still +imposing, while the crowds along the processional route, which was +several miles in length, were enormous. + +The Governor, Sir William Allardice, paid a ceremonial visit to the +Prince immediately the _Renown_ anchored off Ocean Pier. On landing the +Prince was received by Sir Walter Lee, State Premier, Major-General Sir +John Jellibrand, and members of the Tasmanian Government. On the pier he +inspected guards-of-honour of seamen and cadets, and shook hands with +five of Tasmania's eleven V.C.'s, including Sergeant McDougall, who had +been an inmate of a pulmonary hospital when war broke out, yet managed +to get to the front and came back with the most coveted distinction in +the army. + +From the pier the Prince was taken to one of the big dockyard sheds, +which he found filled with returned men, nurses and other war-workers, +including the venerable Mrs. Roberts, a well-known local figure, who +stood, a bent old lady in black, waving the Union Jack beside the +commandant. Many were the Mrs. Robertses, under different names, that +these ceremonial occasions produced. One learned to look for them, +figures full of years and honour, spirits erect in failing bodies, dim +eyes lit by the old torch, frail arms carrying on the old tradition. +Homage to Mrs. Roberts, war-worker, be her style married or single. She +is a symbol of the race. + +[Illustration: LEAVING PORT ADELAIDE] + +[Illustration: MOUNT WELLINGTON, HOBART] + +In this place the Prince was cheered in the lustiest manner, and was +presented with an illuminated copy of the Tasmanian muster-roll, also +with the gold badge of the twelfth battalion. Thereafter he was taken in +procession through the streets, where the crowd was so dense and anxious +to get near to him, that the pace had to be of the slowest. Nothing +could exceed the good nature of those who were pressing in upon the +route, however, which was well kept after the first quarter of a mile. A +civic address was read outside the town hall, where the Prince, whose +voice had given out, wisely abstained from straining it further by any +attempt to make it heard beyond the platform occupied by the Mayor and +Councillors. + +Later on he attended a big state luncheon. The speakers included the +Premier, who dwelt upon Tasmania's loyalty and warm-hearted devotion to +the Empire. He also referred to developments that will eventually +revolutionize the industrial and commercial future of the island, no +less than a quarter of a million horse-power being in course of being +tapped by hydro-electric installations. + +Mr. Ogden, the Labour Party chairman and leader of the Opposition in the +State Legislature, also spoke. He said the loyalty of Tasmania was not +to be measured by the population of this beautiful island, but was a +loyalty that extended to an Empire wherein the great gulf between rich +and poor would eventually be narrowed. The Prince was by this time too +hoarse to reply at any length. He managed to tell his enthusiastic +audience, however, that the chief thing he would have liked to be able +to say to them was how much he appreciated the reception given to him. + +The Prince's engagements during the two days he spent at Hobart included +a civic ball and races, an investiture and a big outdoor popular +reception, and witnessing the electric illumination of the city. The +last was especially interesting, not only as exhibiting what is probably +one of the most beautiful ports in the world, but also as an +illustration of one of the uses to which Tasmania's new hydro-electric +power can be put. The installation, which is connected with the overflow +of an impounded lake in the centre of the island, is rapidly +transforming this sleepy little State of the Commonwealth into a busy +industrial centre. Copper mines on the west coast are doing all their +smelting by this means. Hobart and Launceston drive their trams and +light their street lamps with the new power. Before the war the whole of +the zinc ore won from the Broken Hill mines in South Australia went to +Germany as a matter of course to be converted. Tasmania now handles much +and will presently handle all of it. Hitherto Australian downs have +grown the wool and Yorkshire looms have woven it. Presently Tasmanian +mills will perform the latter process, and so far as the Commonwealth is +concerned her fleeces will no longer make the journey across two oceans +and back, on their way to adorn and comfort the persons of her +population. From the manufacturer's point of view there are advantages +in isolation. Power, sugar and a liberal market have drawn the Cadbury +firm to Hobart, and foundations are already laid which will ultimately +prosper upon the sweet tooth of the Polynesian belle. The old Arcadian +days of Tasmania are gone with its colonial status. Its climate will +always draw seekers of ease in retirement, and its orchards will +remunerate their leisure, but the future of the State, under the +protection of the Commonwealth tariff, is industrial. + +The humorous inhabitants of its larger fellow States have a way of +calling the island a "flyfleck," but its importance in the Commonwealth +is out of all proportion to its size. The amenities it offers have from +the beginning attracted the settler with some liberty of choice, with +the result that Tasmania has contributed a large proportion of leading +men to the Commonwealth. It is also remarkable for the number of retired +members of the military and civil services of India amongst its +settlers, men who in their prime have borne heavy responsibilities, and +in their declining years are giving still commanding abilities to the +development of the land they have chosen to be their home. + +The Prince crossed Tasmania by rail at night, arriving the following +morning at Launceston, another seaport city of extraordinary scenic +beauty. Here he added to his tour one more experience of the entire +population turning out to welcome him in a city decorated from end to +end in honour of his coming. He stayed the night at the "Brisbane" +hotel, and attended a number of ceremonies. In the course of the +afternoon he inspected masses of school-children. The physical +impossibility of shaking hands with all the teachers in attendance +suggested the idea of inviting those of them who were returned soldiers +to do so, and it was surprising what a large proportion were able to +claim the honour. Another function was his meeting disabled men at the +principal hospital. These poor fellows gave him the wildest reception, +and the whole assemblage laughed most heartily when, on the invitation +of one of them, he flicked halfpennies in a "two up" game. Later on the +Prince climbed the beautiful Cataract gorge afoot, at a pace with which +the members of the Cabinet who were with him had all they could do to +keep up. He finished a long day with a visit to the Launceston races, +followed by a popular reception at the town hall, where ten thousand +people passed in procession before him. + +The following day H.R.H. returned to Hobart, the State Premier and other +members of the Government, including the Ministers of Lands and +Railways, accompanying him on the train. The inhabitants assembled and +cheered him at every passing station, while at the more important, +including Tunbridge, Parallah and Brighton, he alighted and participated +in civic receptions. The region traversed included a rich farming and +orcharding district, on which numbers of returned soldiers, some of them +belonging to the British Army, who are being given by the Government +precisely the same treatment as their Australian comrades, are being +started as farmers. The State not only supplies them with already +cleared and fenced holdings and necessary buildings, but finances them +on terms calculated to enable men without a penny of their own, beyond +their war gratuity, to become independent freehold proprietors within +ten years. One of the features of this admirable scheme is that the +settlement has attached to it an expert instructor, who is in Government +employ. Those settlers who have so far moved in have found a portion of +the holdings allotted to them already under crop, and some one at hand +to teach them how to apply their own labour to the best advantage. They +are being inducted into agricultural prosperity, in one of the most +perfect climates in the world, close to a railway, and in surroundings +comparable to those of Devonshire. One of them brought to show to the +Prince two prize sheep-dogs he had reared which he valued at a hundred +and fifty pounds. The Royal party left this spot regretfully, so full of +fair prospects for men who deserve all that can be done for them did it +seem. The number so far settled is not very large, but the Minister for +Lands, to whose initiative, resource and enthusiasm the success already +achieved is largely due, is hopeful that it will be possible to extend +it to all suitable returned men who present themselves. In this case +Tasmania should receive a signal increase in population, for nowhere in +the world have I seen a more cheerful outlook for the soldier who is of +the right type to become a farmer. + +The Prince was booked to spend the evening of his return to Hobart at +the Soldiers' Club, before going on board the _Renown_, which was to +sail at midnight. It was characteristic of the Tasmanians that the men +themselves remembered how trying this would be for him after his long +and strenuous day. They proposed, therefore, of their own motion, that +they should say good-bye to him on the wharf, and this was the course +ultimately adopted. It was a graceful act which fittingly terminated one +of the pleasantest visits of the tour. + + + + +XX + +QUEENSLAND + + +Accompanied by His Majesty's Australian Ship _Australia_, and two +destroyers, the _Renown_ made a fine weather voyage to Sydney from +Tasmania. After crossing the Bass Strait the course was close inshore +along the beautifully wooded hills of New South Wales, and boats laden +with people put out from the small whaling port of Eden to greet the +Prince. Loyal messages were also flashed from homesteads further up the +coast when the _Renown_ came in sight, transmitted by men, now back in +their homes, who had learnt to signal in France or Gallipoli. Entering +Sydney harbour, numbers of yachts and launches were found waiting in the +fairway to welcome the flotilla, the scene being almost as gay as when +the Prince first arrived at this wonderful port. The wharf also +demonstrated the interest felt in the arrival. It was loaded with people +whose cheers were undiminished as the Prince went his way to the +station, where he proceeded at once to entrain for Queensland. + +The rail journey northwards produced some of the most remarkable +experiences of the tour, experiences the more notable for occurring in +States where public sentiment is perhaps more markedly democratic than +anywhere else in Australia. The first stop of any consequence was at +the coal-mining town of High Street. Here the Prince was taken by car in +procession through decorated streets, lined with people twenty deep the +whole way. The objective was the neighbouring railway station of West +Maitland, where H.R.H. was to rejoin the train, and where he found an +enormous crowd of miners and their wives and children, who gave him a +rousing welcome. He shook hands with three hundred returned men, also +with a pathetically long line of mothers, widows, and orphans of fallen +soldiers, and he inspected a big gathering of school-children. + +A picturesque figure occupied a place in the crowd on the road between +High Street and West Maitland, a native Australian woman in flowing +robes, with a golden crown on her head, who was the head of a local +tribe of blacks. Standing beside her was a full-blooded son, who had +lost a leg in France, whither he had gone in company with white +squatters, amongst whom, prior to this, he had presumably been a +stockman. She added to her memories and her dignities a word with the +Prince of Wales. + +Beyond West Maitland the route passed through fine park-like country, +with wooded hills and cultivated valleys, plainly visible in the bright +moonlight which had succeeded a typically balmy New South Wales winter's +day. The train stopped and receptions were held at various minor +centres, including Murrurundi, a place full of the romantic associations +of a bygone generation, when this part of Australia was still a land of +bush, broken only by very occasional squatters' cabins and mining camps. +As the Prince stood on a gaily decorated platform outside the station +with orderly lines of returned men and neatly dressed lady war-workers +beside him, one's mind went back to wilder scenes, enacted many years +ago. A grey-headed man told how, on almost exactly this spot, a +bush-ranger had been shot, after long eluding capture with the help of +his sister, who was a waitress at the local drinking saloon, whence she +used to ride out to his hiding-place at night in the hills, upon a horse +borrowed from race-stables near by. In this way information and supplies +were communicated to him, the midnight journeyings upon the borrowed +thoroughbred not being brought to light until the time came round for +the annual race-gathering, when the mud and sweat of its condition +attracted attention. What became of the girl, my informant did not know, +but she was honoured in the story if not in the incident. + +Wallangarra, the border station between New South Wales and Queensland, +was reached the following morning, when the Prince again had the +modified excitement of changing gauges. Here he bade farewell to Mr. +Hodgson, who had acted throughout the tour in charge of the railways of +New South Wales. He was welcomed by a distinguished group of officials +representing Queensland, who came on board the train. The Premier, the +Hon. Mr. E. G. Theodore, was at that moment on public business in London +on behalf of the Queensland Government; the Governor, Sir Hamilton Gould +Adams, had recently retired. Their places were filled by Mr. Fihelly, +acting Premier, and Mr. Lennon, acting Governor, pending the arrival of +Sir Matthew Nathan from England. + +From the border the track climbed steadily to the top of a pleasant +wooded plateau, three thousand feet above sea level, dotted with rich +orchards and gardens, which are being opened up in increasing numbers +and of late at rapidly advancing land prices. It is difficult to realize +at first sight how the fruit-trees manage to take root. Some of the very +richest and most sought after plots are a mass of tumbled rocks amongst +which there seems room for nothing to grow, yet it is just amongst these +rocks that the very finest peaches and apples are raised. + +A newly constructed branch line carried the party to the returned +soldiers' settlement of Amiens. Here a cheerful crowd of some two +hundred Australians and British had assembled, accompanied by wives and +babies, the wives in a surprisingly large percentage of cases from +England, and the babies some of the healthiest looking imaginable. The +Prince would have liked to spend some time in this settlement, but an +inexorable programme hurried him away. He had time, however, to hear a +great deal about the felling, burning and clearing up of string-bark +forest, the fencing and ploughing of the land, also the planting of it +with fruit-trees of the finest stocks. He also saw a number of +comfortable bungalows each with the amenity of a roomy veranda, in which +the settlers live. Ten acres of good soil were considered a sufficiently +large holding to keep one man employed, and each place is arranged to +include this area, apart from rocky or water-logged portions. The +average out-turn of such a holding, when planted with suitable trees of +six years' growth, is estimated, with prevailing fruit prices, at £700 +per annum. Returned men, accepted by the local agricultural authorities +as likely to succeed on such properties, and irrespective of whether +they are from Australian or British units, are able to obtain advances, +as they may require them, up to a total of £625, against work done upon +their places. These advances are repayable in easy instalments, spread +over long series of years, at about five per cent. interest, which is +less than the money at present costs to provide. Most of the holdings, +when seen by the Prince, were only partially cleared and planted. The +men were hopeful of pulling through, however, until the trees should +come into bearing, their pensions and advances, eked out by the growing +of tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables, for which there appeared to +be considerable local demand at remunerative prices, being considered +sufficient to keep them. Once the trees come into bearing their owners +can reasonably expect to do quite well. The authorities estimated that, +in the ordinary course, a man should be able to pay off all indebtedness +within ten years, after which he would find himself the absolute owner +of an unencumbered property, capable of indefinite expansion by taking +up more land, and even without any expansion, sufficient to support the +settler and his wife and children in conditions of comparative comfort. + +The life on these holdings is in the open air, in a sunny climate, +without any extremes of temperature, amongst beautiful natural +surroundings, and in an atmosphere so bracing that these well-watered +uplands have long been utilized as a health resort. The breaking in of +the holdings is, no doubt, very hard work, and here the Government +advances make it possible to pay for help in the case of men unequal to +do the whole of it themselves. Once this has been done, the work that +remains, of cultivating, manuring, pruning, and spraying the trees, and +of picking and packing the fruit, is very much less strenuous; and for +those prepared for a life in the open air where country pursuits +replace the feverish interests of the city, the prospect seems almost +ideal. Certainly those we saw entering upon it gave the very pleasantest +impression. The man will, of course, do best who possesses those +qualities which make him the lender, instead of the borrower, of the +stump-puller, and the purveyor, instead of the buyer, of tinned luxuries +at the co-operative shop and packing establishment. For all, however, +there seems to be a living under conditions which must certainly be +considered favourable. + +The sun was getting low when the Royal train pulled up at Warwick, a +prosperous city in the breezy uplands of the Darling Downs two thousand +feet above the sea level, home of sheep, mixed farming and white-stemmed +forest trees. Here in the Central park, commanding a beautiful view of +blue distant mountains, the entire population had assembled and the +usual civic address was presented. + +I talked with two of the residents, both men from the Thames Valley, one +a doctor, and the other a chauffeur. They agreed in not even considering +the idea of going back to the old country. This part of Queensland, they +said, was a place where it was easy to make a living, an its warmth and +sunshine were delightful after the English winters of which so little +can be safely predicted. They would not admit that the summer was too +hot, or that the drought from which this part of Australia had only +recently suffered had been more than a very temporary setback in the +steady growth of continually increasing prosperity. + +The train halted for the night in open upland country, with delightful +bracing air, one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen +painting a clear evening sky. The following morning, in warm brilliant +sunshine, the track crept down the wooded slopes that gird in the +Darling Downs, and emerged in the rich cultivated Lockyer plain below. +Here fine red cattle were feeding down magnificent crops, six inches up, +of green luscious oats, the settlers considering that this somewhat +remarkable procedure increases the ultimate harvest of grain, by causing +the young plants to stool out. + +Beyond the Lockyer plain the route lay through the Liverpool hills +whence it descended, by easy gradient, to Brisbane and the sea. Not a +station, a village or a house upon the way, but was gay with +decorations. The inhabitants were out upon all sides, on horseback, in +buggies, in cars, or seated upon fence rails, every man of them hat in +hand, every woman and girl a-smile, every child wide-eyed with +excitement. Operatives cutting down trees, navvies shovelling ballast +upon the railway track, farmers plowing their fields, husbandmen pruning +their orchards, stopped work and saluted or shouted a welcome as the +train went by. Boys raced beside the Royal saloon in youthful endeavour +to keep up. Not a churlish glance, nor an indifferent face, was seen for +a hundred miles. + +Brisbane first presented itself in the shape of pleasant garden suburbs +full of wooden houses on stilts, each surrounded by a garden of flowers. +It developed, as the train rushed on, into the solid masonry of a +closely built city. The heartsome sound of cheering accompanied all the +way. Arrived at the railway station, H.R.H. was welcomed with every +formality. The State Premier, the whole of the Cabinet, the Mayor and +the city Council, received him on the platform. Naval and military +guards-of-honour were in attendance. The usual procession of motor-cars +was ultimately in motion, and carried the visitor through several miles +of streets, in which elaborately decorated arches, made of wool bales, +fruit, vegetables, and corn-sheaves, gave homely, delightful, convincing +character to their setting. Crowds lined the entire route and gave the +Prince a welcome the warmth of which was equal to that of any he had +previously received. The way was kept by returned men, and long lines of +women war-workers, including nurses and helpers of every kind, formed a +solid wall of white on either side of the route for at least a quarter +of a mile. + +In the Albert Square Mayor Maxwell read an address of welcome. At the +University pretty girl-students, in black caps and gowns, raced one +another across the grounds to get a second view of the Prince after they +had stood demurely at attention as he went past. On the grassy slopes of +the wide Domain beside the river, backed by an assemblage of ten +thousand delighted school-children, the Prince reviewed the men who had +been keeping the route through the city. To render this possible every +detachment had closed up and followed the procession after the cars had +passed. In this way were gathered some two thousand men representing +every arm of the service. The designations of the First, Second, Third, +Fourth, and Fifth Australian Divisions were in evidence on the flags +carried past the saluting point. + +Another interesting occasion during the visit to Brisbane was the local +agricultural exhibition, which never, in the long history of this +popular institution, had been so crowded, the principal stores and +other business establishments having all been closed in honour of the +occasion. The proceedings began with a procession through the wool, +wheat, sugar-cane, fruit, butter, cheese, pig, and cattle exhibitions +halls, the Prince and members of the committee making slow progress in +the crowds of cheering spectators. The afternoon was devoted to a parade +of prize-winning cattle and horses. This was held in a big +amphitheatre--seventy years ago the crude "Bora," sacred initiation +ground, of Queensland savages, now the beautifully turfed show-ring of +the National Agricultural Association. Here, in the presence of some +seventy thousand spectators, the Prince saw some very fine jumping, not +devoid of minor mishaps. He himself ran to help to pick up a girl whose +mount came down at one of the fences. By this time it will be noted that +it was impossible to keep H.R.H. out of any kind of incident not +strictly arranged for. He also assisted at an attempt, not the less +interesting because it just failed of success, to lower the mile +trotting-record of the track. + +Leaving the show in the afternoon, the Prince proceeded, in company with +the acting Premier and the Lieutenant-Governor, to Farm Park, where he +took tea upon the grass with the Mayor and Aldermen of Brisbane, in the +midst of thousands of spectators. So closely was the civic tea-table +surrounded that the red cross nurses, to whom fell the duty of waiting +on the Royal party, scarcely had room to perform their functions. The +number of cups and spoons and other articles that became heirlooms in +1920 for the benefit of Australasian posterity must be considerable. The +Prince was eventually extracted from the crush, and embarked, amidst +much cheering and hand-clapping, upon one of numerous decorated +motor-boats which took him, attended by a flock of yachts, across the +wide Brisbane river, in the yellow sunset, on a visit to invalid +soldiers in the fine "Anzac" Hospital on the other side. + +Another notable function in Brisbane was the state dinner, at which +representative men from every part of Queensland were present, some four +hundred sitting down. The Prince was between the acting Premier and the +Lieutenant-Governor. The Papal representative, Monsignor Cattaneo, +occupied a seat on the other side of the Lieutenant-Governor. Others +present included the Anglican Bishop, the members of the State Cabinet +and the Legislative Council, and the Chief Justice. The streets outside +were densely packed with people, who became so insistent in cheering +after the Prince had got inside that he left the banquet to wave to them +from the balcony. Mr. Fihelly, in proposing the toast of the evening, +emphasized that their Royal guest had endeared himself to all with whom +he had come in contact, and had been found to be "a man of parts, a man +of ability, able to take his place amongst men, and one who would carry +away with him the goodwill of all the people of Queensland." + +Mr. Vowles, Nationalist Leader of the Opposition, spoke in similarly +loyal tone. The Prince rose to reply amidst cheers, and developed his +points in a voice which his hearers noticed had now recovered its +clearness and resonance. In the course of a long and enthusiastically +received speech he dwelt upon the wonderful reception he had had, the +pleasure his visit had given him, and especially on the large part taken +in the receptions by returned sailors, soldiers and women war-workers. +Referring to the soldier settlement he had visited on his way to +Brisbane, he congratulated the Queensland Government on the foresight +and energy with which they had tackled the repatriations problems. "You +cannot do too much," he said, "for your diggers, who played such a big +part in saving the Empire, and who should be looked upon as the backbone +of the Commonwealth.... My tour in Australia, alas!" he continued, "is +nearly over. It is particularly to the future of the Commonwealth that +my thoughts turn. My visit to Australia has taught me that the spirit +wherein your diggers volunteered, and fought and won, is not something +unique or out of the way, which will never happen again, but the natural +outcome of a national spirit which is going to make Australia one of the +great progressive nations of the world. Their free and gallant services +in the war have shown to yourselves, to the Empire and to the world what +you are and what you can do. With such a spirit in its men and women +Australia has a splendid future in its grasp. I came to Australia +already feeling a strong bond of comradeship with your troops: I shall +leave it feeling even a stronger bond of comradeship with the Australian +people as a whole, and my heart will always be with them in their mighty +task of building up the solid British fabric of freedom, justice and +security with fair play for all upon this vast continent." + +Another of the Brisbane functions was a popular reception in the public +gardens overlooking the river. Here some thousands of people passed +before the Prince, who stood upon a dais, the acting Premier beside him. +Girls presented bouquets of flowers. Men and women stopped to wish him +good luck on his homeward voyage, or to photograph him at close +quarters. Here and there an old-fashioned curtsy would be dropped, or +cheering or hand-clapping started. The great majority of the people +expressed themselves in a simple nod or smile, or waved hand or hat or +handkerchief as they went by. One could not help recognizing, not only +that they had taken the Prince to their hearts, but that while paying +him the great compliment of ceasing to treat him with formality, there +was no diminution in the deference that was shown. When he left the +reception he went back to his quarters in Parliament Buildings, where, +marching up and down, were armed cadets in full service kit, volunteers +from districts it had not been possible for the Prince to visit, their +expenses all paid by local subscriptions. There was no serious necessity +for the services of these young warriors, but they represented the +universal determination of North-Eastern Australia that "our Prince," as +by this time he had begun to be called, should lose nothing of pomp or +Royal circumstance while he remained the guest of their State. + +Before the Prince left, Monsignor Cattaneo, Apostolic Delegate, and the +Very Reverend M. Duhig, Catholic Archbishop of Queensland, asked and +obtained an interview at which they formally presented "the homage and +devotion to the throne of the whole Catholic community of Australia." +They dwelt upon the deep loyalty of this community and declared that the +Prince had won all their hearts. + +In the course of his visit to Brisbane H.R.H. was shown State factories, +State shops, State insurance offices, and State markets in full +operation, a class of enterprise under experiment in natural conditions +so favourable as to give it at least a sporting chance. He also heard +much of the sugar-cane, coco-nut-palm and banana plantations, and the +enormous cattle ranges of the northern territories where Queensland +rolls away into the tropics and there is rich land and to spare for a +population as large as that of France. + +Leaving Brisbane one day during his visit to that city, the Prince +proceeded by train through a well-wooded country of rich black soil, +just then a quagmire from heavy but welcome rain. He touched at a number +of centres, including Ipswich, head-quarters of woollen mills and +coal-mines, and Harrisville and Boonah, country towns where farming and +pastoral communities predominate. Every stopping-place had been +converted by unpaid local labour into a beflagged forest of greenery, in +the midst of which the inhabitants of the entire neighbourhood, also +many from far distant stations, had assembled. At Ipswich the streets +were lined by operatives and miners, and the welcome of this important +place included a car procession through decorated streets, a popular +reception, a mayoral address, and a civic luncheon served to the strains +of one of the largest and best trained choirs in the State. Vocal music +as the accompaniment of food was an unaccustomed luxury to many of those +present, but it did not appear to interfere with the general appetite. +At Boonah the proceedings were simpler but not on that account less +impressive, although they took place in a pelting rainstorm. The Prince +waded through an ankle-deep stream of flood-water to an exposed +platform, where, surrounded by a crowd of squatters, stockmen, farmers +and their families, including large numbers of women and children, all +standing in the downpour with streaming mackintoshes and umbrellas, he +unveiled a fine marble war-memorial bearing three hundred names. He also +shook hands with relatives of the fallen, and with numbers of returned +men, nurses and other war-workers. + +On the way back to Brisbane further centres were visited. Amongst them +were Maryborough, a manufacturing and coal-mining city, where the steel +skeletons of two twelve-thousand-ton steamers, under construction for +the Commonwealth Government, towered amidst the decorations. One of the +arches was surmounted by a group of blacks in native costume, armed with +bows, arrows and spears, which they wielded realistically. Another +carried a dozen diggers in uniform. Other places visited were Tiaro, +where the assemblage that greeted the Prince consisted chiefly of +agriculturalists; Gympie, where the returned men, assembled in a +war-memorial park, included gold-miners as well as farmers; Cooroy, +where the Prince made the acquaintance of a large logging community; +Landsborough, where sugar-cane planters, and banana and orange-growers +preponderated, and Beerburrum, Queensland's biggest soldier settlement, +where he shook hands with a large number of returned men engaged in +growing pineapples. + +The Prince finally left Brisbane amidst unforgettable scenes of national +enthusiasm and emotion. The entire population of the city seemed to be +in the streets. The neighbourhood of the railway station was blocked by +masses of cheering men, women and children. The railway station +buildings were besieged, the more influential folk, including the +members of the State Government, and their families, thronged the +platform. The general public crowded windows, balconies, culverts, +overbridges, and fences, wherever a glimpse of the train could be +obtained. The start had to be three times postponed, so many were the +Prince's personal farewells. After the train got into motion, motor-cars +raced beside the track, school-children were found lined up at wayside +crossings, stumps and telegraph poles were perching places for daring +climbers. Everybody waved something, if it were not a handkerchief, a +flag or a hat, it was the nearest thing to hand. I saw a vegetable +hawker wildly flourishing his biggest cabbage, a housewife excitedly +using a tablecloth as a signal of affection, a company of railway +carriage-cleaners throwing their dusters upon the wind. Workmen in +overalls, carters with teams of horses, stockmen riding to their duties +stopped and doffed hats as the train went by. "Old Lang Syne" was taken +up, again and again, by thousands of voices, to be itself drowned in a +chorus of shouted "Goodbyes." All the Members of the Cabinet travelled +upon the Royal train as far as the border of the State. The acting +Premier had to stay behind for urgent public reasons, but was so +determined not to be left out of the proceedings that he attempted to +follow the train in an aeroplane, and was only stopped by crashing +heavily. The demonstration was so remarkable that even the Queenslanders +themselves were astonished at it. Enthusiasm had taken possession of +this democratic people, and there seemed to be no length to which they +were not prepared to go. Here was a country where the people are as +sovereign as anywhere on earth. Yet wayside villages and towns on the +southward journey, one after another, took up and repeated Brisbane's +farewell demonstrations. The crowds at the railway stations, where +addresses were presented, included in many instances definitely more +people than the entire population of the immediate centre, this being +due to farmers, squatters, and settlers bringing their families +incredible distances by train, by motor, in buggies, or on horseback, so +that they might not miss the occasion. In one case four well-mounted +girls galloped astride nearly a mile, keeping abreast with the train, +and arriving at the next station, where an address was to be read, just +as the Prince alighted. Their spirited ride secured them a handshake and +a compliment. + +The train halted for the night at Toowoomba, in the heart of a wonderful +agricultural region, which was found smiling under splendid crops. Here +the countryside had long been preparing for the Prince's coming, and the +celebrations were of the liveliest, everything, including decorations, +gathering of returned men, civic banquet, and ball, being planned to +create a record. + +The following morning the Prince recrossed the border, over a carpet +woven of yellow wattle flowers. It was a pretty thought and offered him +much. + + + + +XXI + +THE JACKAROO AND OTHERS + + +When the Prince left Queensland he had practically completed his +official tour of the Australian States. There remained for him the +improvised series of visits to the back-blocks of New South Wales, which +took the place of the abandoned journey to New Guinea. Here he stayed in +the houses of squatters, some of them controlling sheep-runs hundreds of +thousands of acres in extent, and mingled in the most informal manner in +country life and country pastimes. In the wonderful air of this region +he regained much of the spring and energy he had lost in the preceding +months of strenuous official touring. The Government officers on the +Royal train meanwhile returned to Sydney. + +The route taken by the Prince after leaving Wallangarra for the interior +lay through beautiful scenery across the famous Blue Mountains. One +looked out, as the train climbed upwards, across vast stretches of +green-forested gorges and grey crags of fluted limestone, with purple +and aquamarine ridges on the far horizon--a land filled only with the +colour and the form of wild nature. The Prince started on the foot-plate +of the engine, which he drove himself up a one-in-thirty-three grade +slope. Although his journey was now entirely unofficial, numbers of +people assembled and cheered him at the principal stations. At Lawson he +alighted and shook hands with returned men, including Private Duncan +Allan, the oldest soldier in the Australian forces. Later on, crossing +the open Bathurst sheep-downs, a halt was made at the wayside station of +Kelso, where horses were in waiting and he took, in the rain, a brisk +ride across country, rejoining the train that evening at Bathurst. + +[Illustration: THE BACKBLOCKS: AN UNOFFICIAL FIXTURE] + +[Illustration: HIS FAVOURITE MOUNT] + +The following morning the train reached Coonamble, terminus of the +railway, a township of wooden houses, situated on a vast grassy plain, +in the heart of sheep-raising country, two hundred and sixty miles from +Sydney. Here Mr. Oliver, President of the Shire, accompanied by the +local mayor and members of his council, received the Prince upon the +platform, and conducted him in a motor-car procession to a grassy park +in the middle of the town, where he found awaiting him a large +assemblage of people, including the usual contingents of returned men +and school-children, also nurses and other war-workers. An address was +presented, and thereafter the procession was continued to the +racecourse, where horses had been collected. The Prince and his staff +mounted and set off across recently flooded country for Wingadee, thirty +miles distant, where the week-end was to be spent at one of the stations +of the Australian and New Zealand Land Company. Lunch was served in the +open at one of the artesian bore-holes that furnish this country with +water, even the severe drought which preceded the recent floods not +having affected the supply. The Prince here visited a typical bush +saloon and in bush fashion called for drinks for all the settlers he +found there. Later in the afternoon he reached Wingadee, where he was +received by Mr. McEwan, General Manager of the Company. He spent the +afternoon riding about this up-to-date station and going over the +wool-sheds. The host of his visit was Mr. Fechan, the Superintendent. + +In the next few days the Prince rode a number of horses, inspecting the +wool-sheds and flocks, chasing kangaroos and emus, and had the +opportunity of forgetting the formalities of public receptions. On the +day of departure from Wingadee he rode thirty miles back to the little +country racecourse at Coonamble, where he remained throughout the +afternoon watching the racing in the casual mud-splashes of his own +ride. The enclosure was crowded with squatters from all parts of +Northern New South Wales, who gave him the most cordial reception, and +followed him afterwards to the railway station to cheer the train by +which he left for Myowera, another small station sixty miles distant in +the same great plain. + +Here the Prince stayed on the Canoubar run in the house of Mr. and Mrs. +McLeod, Mr. Niall, managing director of the company, supervising the +arrangements for his entertainment, which were on the most hospitable +scale. At Canoubar he saw the working of a big sheep station in full +operation, including shearing, sheep-drafting, wool-packing, and the +driving of flocks by wonderfully trained dogs, also the handling and +breaking-in of station horses. One of the merino rams shown to him had +recently been bought for two thousand five hundred pounds sterling. As +to the performances of the dogs, the confiding correspondents were told +that they could drive a fowl into a jam tin, but I am not aware whether +H.R.H. was asked to believe this. On the afternoon of his arrival he +rode nine miles, much of it along natural avenues of gum-trees, to the +country town of Nyngan. His host accompanied him, mounted on his fine +steeple-chaser Bullawarra, once sent to England to run in the Grand +National. + +At Nyngan the entire countryside was found assembled and the Prince met +a large company of returned men, besides relatives of those who would +not return, nurses and other war-workers. All the school-children of the +neighbourhood were also there. The programme included the laying of a +foundation-stone, after which he rode home escorted by a bodyguard of +light-horsemen, who gave a display of bush-galloping a mile outside the +station. + +Next day H.R.H. was made acquainted with the Jackaroo. The Jackaroo is +neither a crow nor a parrot nor any kind of quadruped. He is a young +gentleman of Australia who desires to become a squatter, and who gives +his services on a sheep-run for the opportunity of picking up the +business. He was living, where the Prince encountered him, with, half a +dozen of his fellows, in a comfortable building with roomy sleeping +quarters and an old soldier in charge of the mess. His food is plain but +substantial and appetizing, a leading feature of it, the slab of +"brownie" bread, full of currants, which tells its own tale of his age +and digestion. The Jackaroo spends most of his day in the saddle, riding +long distances to outlying parts of the run, on the hunt for bogged +sheep, or in supervising lambing or moving flocks from one paddock to +another. Often he will not see a living soul from the time he starts out +in the morning until he returns at night, and he may even lose his way. +He then makes a bee-line in the likeliest direction until he comes to +the wire fence of the boundary, which he may follow for miles before he +reaches a landmark he knows. The speedometer of one car which had been +out on fence inspection the day before the Prince arrived, marked 120 +miles, travelled in a single day, so it may be presumed that the +Jackaroo's bump of locality develops early. The squatter is generally +glad to take on likely boys, as he finds them, when the first +fecklessness is worn off, on the whole more conscientious than paid +labour, an important point for work that has to be so largely delegated. +The life is healthy and interesting, and on up-to-date runs like the +ones seen, looked exceedingly pleasant. The young fellows come as a rule +from families of good class and generally have means of their own--a +combination which should make the life history of the Jackaroo not +unrewarding to the student of the fauna of these parts. His own point of +view would have been worth obtaining, but being young he was modest and +said little. He rode buck-jumpers for the Prince. He buck-jumped rather +specially well, as might be expected of a Jackaroo. His name is a +felicity that will outlive much topography. One wonders who invented it. + +The Prince on several occasions shared in the sport of kangaroo chasing, +which leaves fox-hunting standing. On one occasion he rode all day +guided by sons of his hosts through vast paddocks fenced with wire, over +an even carpet of young green grass, which was then just springing up +after floods following three years of drought, and took many a jump over +fallen trunks of trees killed by systematic ringing to make way for +fodder raising. On the way thirty or forty kangaroos were seen and five +of them were chased over formidable obstacles which the "old men"--the +male kangaroos--cleared with extraordinary ease in their long hopping +stride, at a pace that took greyhounds all they could do to overtake. +These kangaroos eat sometimes by no means an inconsiderable amount of +pasture needed for the sheep, and some years ago were being so +extensively shot down that they were in danger of being exterminated. A +close season was introduced and now they are increasing to the extent, +in some localities, of again becoming troublesome. They are much the +colour of the tree trunks, and until startled are easily overlooked in +the bush. They are off with most wonderful grace and agility the moment +they are disturbed and can even clear the high barbed wire fences by +which the runs are bounded provided they approach at a right angle. When +running parallel to the fence they cannot get the necessary foothold for +a big enough spring. This is sometimes taken advantage of by the rider, +who, being of course unable to put his horse over so formidable an +obstacle, endeavours to head off the kangaroo in such manner that it may +reach the fence at a slanting angle. In this case the chase continues +alongside instead of being finished by the kangaroo's escape over the +fence. When overtaken by dogs, which are often used in the chase, the +kangaroo makes a gallant fight for life, and many a hound has been +ripped open and killed by a well-directed kick from its powerful hind +feet, before it can be shot. + +The emu also lent itself to the excitement of the chase during the tour. +The big brown wingless bird much the size and shape of the ostrich, is +quite unable even to jump, but runs as fast as a horse can gallop, and +when pursued will charge a barbed wire fence so hard as to break its way +through, its feathers protecting it from being seriously torn. It is on +this account not beloved by the squatter, but it is seldom shot. The +Prince brought away with him two newly hatched emu chickens, creatures +the size of ducks and prettily marked in shades of black and fawn. Their +quarters on the _Renown_ were in a roomy cage on the superstructure, +where they soon established a reputation as quiet, sober and +well-behaved members of the ship's company. + +On several of his expeditions the Prince was given a meal in the bush +camp fashion. One of these was on the shady banks of a stream +twenty-five miles from a station, from which he had ridden out in the +morning accompanied by sons of his hosts. Here quantities of dead +gum-tree trunks were quietly burning, and were made use of for grilling +chops and making billy tea. The latter is quite unlike and, to the +hungry rider, infinitely preferable to the teapot variety. A tin-can is +filled at the nearest water-hole and is carried to a burning tree trunk, +on which it is gingerly balanced, usually with the aid of a stick, the +tree trunk being as a rule too hot to reach without one. The water boils +with extraordinary rapidity and the pot is quickly hooked off the fire. +A generous handful of tea is thrown into the water before it ceases to +boil and the resultant brew is drunk from any utensil that happens to be +handy. Nobody inquires what becomes of the tea leaves. + +One of the sights on the Canoubar run was sixty thousand sheep recently +returned from stations in well-watered districts, in one case five +hundred miles distant by rail, whither they had been sent to stay over +the years of drought. These sheep had all been carried by the state +railways of New South Wales, at extraordinarily low rates, and with +surprisingly few casualties. They offered a concrete example of what had +been done on a very large scale throughout the State, where the railways +were able to save for the squatters hundreds of thousands of valuable +sheep, which must otherwise have perished when the fodder supply gave +out. The Prince was so interested in what he saw that there was no +getting him away before dark. By the time he was back in the station he +had ridden over sixty miles without leaving the run. + + + + +XXII + +AMONGST THE SHEEP + + +Within the memory of men who have not yet reached middle age, +sheep-rearing in Australia was a gamble. At one time large fortunes +might be made, at another the fruits of long years of thrift and labour +might be swept away by causes which appeared to be outside human +control. Now the industry has become a science. The settler may make +more or he may make less, according as the world price for wool is high +or low. He has his welfare in his own hands, however, and has only to go +the right way to work to make certain of a living. + +The removal of the rabbit-pest has been particularly complete. The +Prince saw wire fencing, extending in some cases in unbroken stretches +for thousands of miles, which is at once so high and so deeply embedded +in the ground that rabbits can neither burrow beneath nor climb over it. +Once a paddock, fenced in this way, has been cleared it remains +permanently free. The principal measures for clearing are the systematic +ploughing of every warren, which effectually stops the burrows, and +thereafter the driving by dogs and horsemen of such rabbits as are above +ground to the fences, where covered pits, led up to by long converging +lines of wire netting, have been prepared in advance. The rabbits +follow one another through drop entrances into these pits, thousands +being sometimes captured in one night on a single run. The operation has +only to be repeated, in one paddock after another, to free an estate +completely. The value of the rabbits and their fur covers most of the +cost involved. One may meet gigantic crates on wheels, each drawn by a +dozen horses and sometimes containing twenty thousand rabbits, _en +route_ to factories where the skins are cured and the flesh prepared for +export. By these means many runs have been completely cleared, while +others are in course of being similarly dealt with. + +As regards methods of fighting drought, in addition to the help given by +the railways in moving sheep from drought-infected areas, to regions +where the grass has not dried up, the storage of fodder in good years to +make up for deficiency in bad ones, is a further measure adopted. +Artesian borings, even where they are inadequate for irrigation +purposes, will water millions of sheep where the surface supply is +defective. + +It was at one time feared that the tapping of the subsoil water over +tens of thousands of square miles in New South Wales, where the +geological formations are such as to render this class of enterprise +remunerative, would gradually exhaust the supply. Experience over a +number of years, including prolonged periods of drought, however, has +not confirmed this apprehension. The Prince was shown wells which had +been running for twenty years without intermission. In some cases, it is +true, fresh borings have had to be made, but it has been discovered +that the failure of the old ones is almost always due, not to any +deficiency in water-pressure below ground, but to the silting up or the +corroding of the pipe itself. Fresh bores yield full supplies, close +alongside those that have given out. Restrictions are rightly imposed by +Government upon the sinking of more than what is considered a reasonable +number of wells in any one area, and up to the present, in the entire +sheep region visited by the Prince, this arrangement has allowed +sufficient supplies to be forthcoming for the watering of all stock, +even in such periods of prolonged drought as that from which this part +of Australia had very recently emerged. + +Minor enemies of the squatter are the black carrion crows, creatures +justly execrated by every back-block man. They are not unlike English +rooks, but have the diabolical habit of attacking sick sheep and +newly-born lambs, not infrequently pecking out their eyes. They are also +charged with poisoning the wounds they make, so that a sheep may die +which appears to have been only very slightly pecked. The harmless +looking galahs, white parrots with pink breasts, make themselves only +one degree less objectionable by eating the grain. Both of these pests, +however, are being got under, with the growth in the number of sportsmen +with scatter guns in each district. The Prince shot several galahs, and +if his bag did not include any carrion crows this was chiefly because +the good work of shooting them had already been so efficiently done. + +Another trouble of the squatter, the silting up of his fences with +leaves and dust in the hot weather, until they disappear and sheep and +cattle stray over them unimpeded, is also being successfully overcome. +On one estate enormous machines like snow-ploughs were shown, which were +periodically pulled by horses along the windward side of fences subject +to this mishap. Floods come only occasionally, but the squatter has +declined to allow himself to be defeated by them. The Prince saw the +bones of many a stray sheep that had been drowned in the last visitation +of this kind. It is indeed extraordinary that such a thing should occur +upon a table-land two thousand feet above sea level, where rain is +ordinarily so scanty that drought is continually feared. The very rarity +of heavy rain, however, makes the conditions such that the water-courses +may be inadequate to carry off any sudden downpour, with the result that +the flooding, when it does occur, may easily be very extensive, as the +country for hundreds of miles on end is almost absolutely level. +Motor-cars have been used successfully to convey thousands of sheep, +three or four at a time, from flooded areas to banks where they could +exist until the water subsided. In other cases boats have been brought +from incredibly distant rivers to carry stock to safety. Much has also +been done upon men's backs, for the squatter does not allow his sheep to +perish if anything within human strength can help them. + +In this part of Australia the grass is so thin that from two to five +acres are required to support each sheep. This accounts for the immense +size of the runs, which extend in some cases to hundreds of thousands of +acres. One of the results of so much grazing space is that epidemics are +almost unknown. On one of the runs the Prince took a hand, with +power-driven clippers in sheds, where one man shears, on the average, +more than a hundred sheep in a single day, the wool fetching up to +twenty-two pence a pound. Fleeces so ticketed indicate the neighbourhood +of the wool millionaire, and he was to be met in all stages of opulence. +A run carrying fifty thousand sheep, each yielding a profit of ten +shillings in the year for wool alone, is by no means uncommon in this +part of Australia, men who had established themselves in pre-war days, +in quite a modest way, upon land leased from the State, not infrequently +finding their incomes multiplied a number of times over as the rates for +wool increased. The greater part of these profits has remained in the +country, and much of it has been put into the development of the runs, +and the improvement of the breeds of sheep, horses and cattle on them. +In one of the stations a five-thousand-pound bull had recently been +bought, and cows were valued at a thousand pounds apiece. On another, +three rams were shown to the Prince which were considered to be worth +six thousand pounds, being an average of two thousand each. + +The methods of development adopted varied according to the financial +position of the owners. A squatter with a long-established run who had +paid off his mortgages, and had money in hand, would ordinarily keep +more sheep upon a given area than his less prosperous neighbour, for the +reason that he could afford to move them by rail in years of drought. +The man more recently established, with whom money was not so plentiful, +would keep his land more sparsely stocked. In one case only six thousand +sheep were being raised, though the run would have supported twice that +number in an ordinary season. Here the owner did the whole of the +routine work of the place, with the assistance only of his two eldest +sons, lads in their 'teens, and occasional hired hands for shearing and +fencing. + +The run possessing the five-thousand-pound bull was worked upon more +expensive principles. It employed highly paid managers, overseers and +stockmen all the year round, and was regarded as so up to date in its +methods as to be quoted as a state model of efficiency and a sort of +competitive Elysium for jackaroos. Both methods of working seemed to be +successful, and both estates were making money. + +The heavy drop in wool prices that is now taking place will no doubt +reduce the amount of the profits presently to be made. There is no +reason to apprehend, however, that the industry will not adjust itself +successfully to the new state of things. Fortunes in the future may be +harder to make than in the past, but the necessaries of life are assured +to all engaged in an industry so self-supplying as is that of +sheep-farming. The area suitable for it is still practically unlimited, +and the open-air life it offers will continue to attract young fellows +anxious to get away from the confinement of the town and the office. + +As regards the climate, all that I can say is that as far north as the +Prince's travels extended, the winter conditions then prevailing were +delightful. The nights were sharp, and the days full of sunshine, and of +a temperature that induced to outdoor work of every kind. Never have I +seen healthier looking people than those who make this part of the world +their permanent home. The children that the Prince found assembled in +surprising numbers at every stopping-place, were sturdy and well +developed. That the summers on these breezy uplands are sometimes hot +was testified to by occasional underground chambers constructed so as to +afford shelter in the middle of the day. Every one agreed, however, that +the nights were cool, and the health and longevity of the community +phenomenal. The interesting claim was also made that the very warmth of +the sun in summer was itself an important factor in keeping down disease +alike in men and sheep. + +The lowlands along the coast of Northern Queensland, where such tropical +staples as sugar-cane, plantains and coco-nuts are grown in quantity, +were hardly reached, though Brisbane, the most northerly seaport visited +by the Prince, was upon the outer fringe of this important region. In +Brisbane the climate was distinctly hot, though the inhabitants looked +strong and full of health. Further north, where the temperatures grow +higher, we were told that numbers of Italians are settling in and doing +well. They have found conditions not altogether dissimilar from those of +their own country, and are developing labour able to deal to some extent +with the difficult problem of sugar-growing. + +On leaving Myowera the Prince proceeded by train to Sydney. On the way +civic receptions were held in his honour at a number of centres. He +stopped off at Dubbo, where white-dressed V.A.D.'s, each with a wand of +yellow-flowering wattle, made a bower over his head as he passed from +the railway station on the usual inspection of returned men. At +Wellington he found a crowd waiting to cheer him beneath flowering +orchards shivering in wintry rain. Blayney, although situated upon the +chill slopes of the Canobolas mountains and said to be the coldest place +in New South Wales, produced amongst its guard-of-honour a cavalry +officer from India in the turbaned uniform of the Fifteenth Lancers, who +had returned to his home in Australia when peace was declared. Another +place visited was Bathurst, where a procession through the town took +place, and where the decorations and receptions were on a very extensive +scale. In the course of his reply to a civic address, presented in this +city, the Prince said his visit in the interior had given him a glimpse +of real Australia. He had seen the richness of the country and had +learnt the desolation that drought and floods could produce. "Many," he +added, "have suffered losses, and while sympathizing with their hard +fortune, I trust the next few years may be years of plenty and bring +them all they desire." + +On arrival at Sydney the Prince went at once to the _Renown_. Later in +the day, his official tour having ended, he drove unescorted to the +races, which he enjoyed like any private individual. The courtesy of the +large gathering of race-goers was such that, although everybody wanted +to see him, and much cheering took place, the stewards had no difficulty +in preventing any inconvenience. + +Before finally sailing, the Prince spent four days in Sydney, saying +good-bye to his friends, and receiving them in the _Renown_, which he +made his home. Amongst those he entertained were the Commonwealth +Governor, the Prime Minister, the New South Wales Governor, the State +Premier, and the principal Commonwealth and State Officials. His staff, +meanwhile, was kept busy receiving and dispatching his replies to a +mountain of warm-hearted farewell messages, of which the following, from +M. Fihelly, acting Premier of Queensland, and head of the most advanced +Labour Government in Australia, may be taken as a sample:-- + + "Your Royal Highness's visit will always be gratefully and + affectionately remembered by the Government and people here, who + found the greatest delight in your presence amongst them, and who + will henceforward regard you as a new link uniting the British + peoples. We hope your Royal Highness will have a safe and pleasant + homeward voyage, and that long life and uninterrupted happiness and + good health will be yours. You came to our land as His Majesty's + most effective ambassador to us and we ask you to be our envoy to + him, bearing renewed assurances that the lofty ideals which inspire + our race are a living active force in Australia to-day." + +Amongst the individual replies dispatched by the Prince perhaps one of +the happiest went to the Royal Australian Navy, which, after expressing +thanks for escorts and other services, and wishing good luck to all, +ended with the characteristic request that the main-brace might be +spliced. + +In his general farewell message His Royal Highness said:-- + + "I am very sorry that my first visit to Australia is at an end, and + I wish on leaving to express my deep appreciation and gratitude to + the Government and people of the whole Commonwealth for the + pleasure and happiness which they have given me during my all too + short stay. I have been deeply touched by the open-hearted + affection shown to me everywhere, and I hope that Australians have + realized how much the warmth of their welcome has meant to me. It + has made my first visit an experience which I can never forget and + which will always bind me to Australia as a real southern home. + + "Throughout the Commonwealth I have been impressed by the fact that + the Australian people as a whole have just the same free and + gallant British spirit at home which the Diggers showed so + splendidly during the war. Australia has appealed to me + intensely as a land where British men and women may make a new + nation as great as any nation of the past, and I shall be heart and + soul with them in their aims and efforts all my life." + +[Illustration: EMU ON A SHEEP-RUN] + +[Illustration: GOOD-BYE TO SYDNEY HARBOUR] + + "I refuse to say good-bye. I have become so fond of Australia now + that she can never be far from my thoughts, wherever I may be; and + I look forward most keenly to the time when I shall be able to + return." + + "My affectionate best wishes to her people, one and all." + +The last official function attended by the Prince in Australia was an +investiture at Government House, Sydney, at which he conferred the +following decorations on behalf of the King:-- + + On Major-General Sir C. B. White, Commonwealth Organizer of the + visit, and Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Officer of the Commonwealth + Naval Board, the K.C.V.O.; on Brigadier-General F. H. W. Lloyd, + Brigadier-General Dodds, Commonwealth Assistant Organizer, and + Commodore Dumaresque, commanding the Australian Fleet, the C.V.O.; + on Captain the Hon. B. Clifford, Military Secretary to the + Governor-General, the M.V.O. + + The following officers, who were in attendance during the Royal + tour, also received the M.V.O.: Colonel F. B. Heritage, + Lieutenant-Colonel Lionel Robinson, Captain J. G. Duncan Hughes, + and Captain R. James, and it was also conferred upon the following + organizers of the Prince's visit in various States: Mr. Clifford + Hay (New South Wales), Mr. Whitehead (Victoria), Mr. Blinman (South + Australia), Mr. Steer (Queensland), Mr. Shapcott (West Australia), + and Mr. Addison (Tasmania). + + Royal Victorian medals were also conferred upon seven motor-drivers + who had been in attendance throughout the tour. + +Every newspaper throughout Australia meanwhile made the Prince's +departure its leading theme, the illustrated journals teeming with +pictures connected with his going. The Sydney "Daily Telegraph," on the +day of his leaving, said: "At high water the _Renown_ will carry the +Prince through the Heads, on the first stage of his homeward journey. +The Prince himself goes away on another high tide--of popularity and +goodwill." + +"If ever there was danger," the Sydney "Morning Herald" said, "of +Australian opinion being misinterpreted through the utterances of a few +noisy and churlish malcontents, it has been dissipated once and for all +by the Prince's experiences." + +On the 19th August the _Renown_ weighed anchor in brilliant sunshine, to +the sound of music, cheers, and salutes, every headland lined with +people. Flotillas of crowded steamboats raced alongside her as she made +her way to the Heads where the Prince's letters overtook him in a fast +Australian destroyer, which had picked them up from aeroplanes +dispatched especially from Adelaide. As a final courtesy it was a happy +touch, and if the _Renown_ had been a sailing ship would have cheered +her on with airs from home. + +The Prince's visit was over. The unanimity and cordiality of his welcome +everywhere had been a revelation even to the people of the land, who in +the clash of local political creeds had hardly realized before how deep +and universal was their feeling of citizenship in the Empire, or how +warmly this feeling would manifest itself towards one who came to them +standing for that Empire and asking only to learn the glory of +Australia's part in it. + + + + +XXIII + +EASTWARD HO + + +After leaving Sydney the _Renown_ made a record run, much of it at +twenty knots an hour, to catch up time. The Prince thus arrived at Fiji +punctually to his programme, in spite of having been delayed at Sydney +waiting for the mail. He landed at Suva, where he was received as +cordially and by as large and picturesque a gathering as had greeted his +first arrival at this port. His visit was informal, but he attended a +civic reception in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, followed by a ride +across country which was not without excitement. The party at one point +were on a narrow hill road, with a bank on one side and a steep drop on +the other. The Prince was in front when they reached a tree-trunk which +had fallen across the way, leaving no room to get past. H.R.H. +dismounted and scrambled over with his horse in lead. The Secretary to +the Governor, who was immediately behind, endeavoured to get across +without leaving the saddle, but his animal slipped in landing and went +over the edge. Its rider, although crippled by the loss of one leg, +managed to throw himself off upon the brink, where he clung precariously +while his horse went crashing through the bushes thirty feet beneath +him, rolling over and over as it fell. The Prince was the first to get +hold of his companion and help to pull him back unhurt into safety. +Oddly enough, the horse was able to carry him home, when eventually it +had scrambled back to the road. + +The Prince rode for some hours after this incident, dismounting on the +way back, and doing the last eight miles on foot at a swinging pace. A +dinner and dance at Government House finished up the day. + +The _Renown_ sailed from Fiji the following day. On reaching Samoa she +lay in the open roadstead, facing misty hills, among which rose steep +green cones of long-dead volcanoes. In the middle distance white-crested +waves flicked their tails with a vicious curl in a leaden rain-flogged +sea, which ended in a white line of breakers where the red roofs of the +town of Apia met the beach. The Prince went off in a bounding launch, +accompanied by Colonel R. W. Tate, the administrator. A mile of rough +and tumble brought the friendly shelter of the reef. Here a number of +long low Samoan canoes, with some forty semi-naked paddlers apiece, met +the launch and escorted it with shouting and beating of wooden drums, as +big as bath-tubs, past the rusty skeleton of the German _See Adler_, +wrecked upon the bar in the hurricane of 1899, to a quiet wharf, where +the Prince landed in a bower of greenery and bunting. He was received by +the principal people of the island, including the Chief Judge and other +officers of the New Zealand administration, also a number of +missionaries. Addresses of welcome were presented and the Prince was +conducted on foot over carpets of brown mulberry bark to the reception +by the Islanders themselves. Lines of smiling Samoans, naked save for +loin-cloths of mat and bark and necklaces of crimson pandanus pods the +size of fingers, lined the route and brought deep cries of +"Aue!"--"Welcome!"--from the bottom of their lungs. The procession was +slow and imposing. It ended in a grassy space beneath green coco-nut +palms and white-flowering leva trees. The Prince took the seat of honour +in a decorated booth, surrounded by thousands of Samoans, many of whom +had travelled long distances from their homes by canoe. The ceremonies +began with the presentation of a series of Samoan chiefs, including the +"High Intercessor," Malietoa Tanumafili, brother of the late King +Malietoa Laupepa, and the venerable Tuimale Fana, friend of Robert Louis +Stevenson. He is a sturdy, upstanding figure in the photograph in +"Vailima Letters," broad-faced and well covered and content. That was a +quarter of a century ago. Now the years have bent and dulled him. The +years, and perhaps the loss that dulls the world, for Tusitala tells no +more tales to any of us in this South Sea Island where he lived and +where he knew so well he would die. One thought, if he had been living +now, how glad a hand and how rich a memory would have been added to this +journey, and how brimming a cup of Imperial romance the _Renown_ would +have lifted to Stevenson's lips. But Tusitala could not come to the +Prince; so the Prince went to Tusitala, where he lies on the hill-top +that meets the winds from the sea, and stood there for a while beside +him. + +This was later. The Samoan ceremony of welcome was long. The +presentations extended to a bevy of island ladies garbed in frilled +creations of bark, relieved with hibiscus blossoms, as scanty at both +ends as a ball dress out of Bond Street. The High Chief Intercessor +afterwards read an address of welcome in which he declared that God had +been the Prince's helmsman in bringing him to Samoa. A move was +afterwards made--there is no other way of describing the respectful +suggestion, the start, the progress to an official fixture--a move was +afterwards made to a thatched hut where the Prince tasted Samoan +dainties spread out upon mats upon the floor. He also saw articles of +Samoan manufacture, including delicately carved wooden Kava bowls, mats +so fine that some of them were valued at a hundred pounds, and _tappas_, +lengths of soft mulberry-bark cloth painted with many patterns, worn by +the men, quite decorative in effect though not exactly pliable enough to +suit a West End tailor. + +Returning later on to the booth further ceremonies were successfully +encountered, including the preparing and drinking of King's Kava. +Semi-naked warriors, in head-dresses like hay-trusses ornamented with +variegated Berlin wool and pieces of looking-glass held in place by +skewers, chopped and pounded white Kava root, macerated the resultant +pulp in a beautifully carved hard-wood bowl the size of a foot-bath, +with water brought up in solemn procession in a galvanized iron +housemaid's bucket, strained the concoction in a Samoan mat, and carried +it to the Prince in a carved cup of coco-nut. National dances, +participated in by both men and women, followed and a one-legged chief +from one of the neighbouring islands read a further address of welcome. +Offerings were here presented, green coco-nuts, pigs roasted whole, +masses of bark _tappas_ and mats. + +The sea had gone down when the Prince re-embarked, and except that the +war-canoes accompanied the launch right out to the _Renown_, the +ceremonies of departure were much like those of arrival. + +The visit occurred opportunely at a time when these rich islands of +coco-nut and banana plantations were slowly settling down under New +Zealand administration after a long period of uncertainty during the +war, followed by a much-dreaded influenza epidemic, which had swept away +a terribly large proportion of their attractive and easy-going +inhabitants. European residents said the Prince's coming was having an +excellent effect. It was already looked upon as fulfilling the Samoan +prayer that Great Britain should "remember this small branch of the +great tree of Empire." It was treated as an omen. "Healthy are the +travellers," declared one of the addresses, "We now meet with +success"--and in islands so swayed by emotion, picturesque expressions +of this kind no doubt indicate some corresponding reality in feeling. + +After leaving Samoa the _Renown_ called at Honolulu, where the Prince +spent three days quietly, surf-riding and golfing, his experiences being +largely a repetition of those of his visit to the island on his outward +voyage, except that there were no official ceremonies. He stayed at the +Moana Hotel as an ordinary visitor, dividing his time between the +beautiful Waikiki beach and the country club. Nothing could exceed the +kindness, hospitality, and consideration extended not only to the +Prince, but also to the entire ship's company of the _Renown_ by +Governor McCarthy and other Hawaiian residents, who, while scrupulously +respecting the Prince's desire that the visit should be without +functions, did everything imaginable to render it as enjoyable as +possible. The arrangements included drives around the island and other +entertainments for every officer and man of the _Renown_. + +On leaving, the Prince issued a press note expressing his appreciation. +"I was delighted with Honolulu on my outward voyage," he said, "and most +grateful for the kind welcome and generous hospitality given me by the +Governor, Mr. McCarthy, and every one. I always feel happy amongst +Americans and in American territory, because American life appeals to me +greatly, and I have many American friends--especially since my short +visit to the United States last year, when I was deeply touched by the +most friendly reception accorded me." + +The whole white population of Honolulu assembled on the wharf when the +_Renown_ cast off. Before leaving the Prince had been presented with the +usual farewell offering of ropes of flowers, which he duly flung +overboard, in accordance with immemorial Hawaiian custom, as the ship +left the shore, in token that his friendship remained with this pleasant +island though he himself was compelled to depart. As the ship cleared +the harbour searchlights were played upon the Waikiki beach where so +many enjoyable hours had been spent. + +Crossing the northern Pacific the _Renown_ touched Mexico, where +Acapulco harbour, a deep, sheltered pool amongst hills of ferruginous +rock and verdant jungle, held the ship for a day. On one side were the +square, flat-topped bastions of the fort, with ancient muzzle-loaders +pointing black mouths out of stone embrasures, muzzle-loaders which were +fired quite recently at the late President Carranza's gunboat, the +_Gerriro_, when it was shelling revolutionaries ensconced in the +red-tiled city that climbs up the steep slope behind the wharf. + +The fighting was described to us in broken English by Mexican traders +doing business in dark verandahed houses opening out of the narrow +streets. It had surged up and down the town in the form of desultory +rifle-fire between the followers of Carranza, who were in occupation, +and those of the insurgent rebel leader, Avaro Obregon, who eventually +drove them into the interior. Carranza's gunboat simultaneously +disappeared to sea. No great damage was done in the town. All that we +heard of was the looting of shops, which did not appear to have been on +any very considerable scale. After the firing had ceased, the civilians, +who had mostly hidden themselves in the hills, returned and reopened +their places of business. + +At the time of the Prince's visit the walls of Acapulco were plastered +with rough zincograph prints of Avaro Obregon, a soldierly looking +Mexican, whose election for President was voted upon the Sunday before +the _Renown_ put in to that port. Nobody doubted that he would be +declared elected (as has since been the case) for the excellent reason +that no other candidate had been even heard of at Acapulco. In the +disorder so long in the ascendant the entire port has fallen into decay. +Dark-skinned loungers, in white cotton shirts and trousers, bare feet, +and gigantic straw sombrero hats, smoked cigarettes upon benches beneath +plantain trees in the central square. In the market-place were tethered +mules with high-peaked saddles, also doing nothing and enjoying it. A +couple of small bells rang out intermittently from a big Catholic +church with corrugated iron roof, but the only worshipper inside this +draughty place of worship was a guide, who seemed to be returning thanks +for unaccustomed profits brought to him by the royal visit. The planks +of the empty wharf were so rotten that one had to walk warily to avoid +mischance. + +On the beach were a few light fishing boats, one of which was engaged in +taking out three of the Governor's A.D.C.'s through the fine but +deserted harbour to pay his respects to the Prince. The Governor, these +gentlemen explained, was ill or would have been with them. The British +and United States consuls came to the ship, where they were entertained +to lunch. + +The Prince afterwards landed and went for a walk ashore, while the +_Renown_ took in oil-fuel. Bumboats with scarlet sails, presided over by +dusky ladies in black robes and tumbled hair, hawked bananas, melons, +earthen pots, sombrero hats, Mexican swords, coloured blankets, and +other locally manufactured articles, to the blue-jackets. + +An old missionary in the faded uniform of a captain of the Royal Navy, a +rank he once had held, also visited the _Renown_. He had recently +arrived by mule from Mexico City, some six hundred miles distant. The +road is steep and rocky, but by no means unsafe. The railway, which is +ultimately to connect Acapulco with Mexico City, though partly torn up, +is still in working order for nearly half the way. It may some day +shorten the mail route materially between Europe and Australia. The bags +would be carried overland from some American port on the Atlantic and +re-shipped at Acapulco for the trans-Pacific voyage. Business had not +been altogether suspended in Mexico City, banks remaining open and +motor-cars plying in the streets. + +Little was known in Acapulco of the personality of Avaro Obregon, except +that he had been a successful revolutionary leader. It was hoped he +would prove strong enough to hold his own and put down disorder, thereby +enabling prosperity to return to this much-vexed country, but fighting +in Mexico, as in Ireland, is a temperamental gift and hard to lose. + +The _Renown_ put out to sea in a sharp electric storm. Warm tropical +rain came down with insistent hammer, and lightning from all sides at +once threw up the coast in brilliant outline, and illuminated an +enormous crucifix upon one of the headlands, by which Drake may have +steered in his pursuit of Spanish galleons three hundred years ago. + +The passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, on the return journey, was +quickly accomplished. The _Renown_ arrived at Panama at daylight, after +an uneventful voyage from Acapulco. She was received by the American +authorities, who fired a salute of welcome. The Canal was entered +without a stop, and was traversed smoothly and in record time for so big +a vessel. Every lock was clear and every possible facility was afforded. + +Dredgers were still at work at the slip which had delayed the _Renown_ +on her outward voyage, but an almost magical change had been effected in +the interval by the removal of a million cubic yards of rock and earth. +What had been a narrow, tortuous channel in June, had been converted by +September into a spacious pool, where to the casual glance six _Renowns_ +could lie side by side. The hillside above looked as unstable as ever, +but no fresh land-slips were visible, and even if they occur hereafter, +as is to be expected, the canal has space to accommodate considerable +subsidence without interfering with vessels getting through. + +At the Gatun locks the Prince went off by launch, in company with Mr. +Markham, the pisciculturist of the Canal, who succeeded in showing him +some Tarpon fishing. He got back at a late hour, muddy but radiant, with +quite a catch, and re-embarked upon the _Renown_, which was then moored +alongside the Christobal wharf at Colon, taking in oil. H.M.S. +_Calcutta_ was also there, and the two vessels put out to sea the +following morning. + + + + +XXIV + +THE WEST INDIES + + +An epidemic in Jamaica abridged the West Indian part of the tour, but +the _Renown_ visited several of the other islands, beginning with +Trinidad, where the flotilla anchored three days after leaving Colon in +the quiet roadstead off Port of Spain. Here Sir John Chancellor, +Governor of the Island, came on board to pay his respects to the Prince, +who shortly afterwards landed. + +The entire city of Port of Spain had been effectively decorated. +Sugar-cane-stalks, cocoa-pods, and coco-nuts, were worked in cleverly +upon arches, spanning its substantial streets, to represent the +agriculture of the Colony. The other main Trinidad industries, asphalt +and oil, were well in evidence in the smooth surface found upon the +roads along which the Royal procession passed. The crowds lining the +route were made up in fairly equal proportions of negroes, East Indians, +and persons of mixed or "coloured" race. Few Europeans were seen until +the Legislative Council building and the Town Hall were reached, where +they were in considerable numbers. Those presented to the Prince +included Messrs. De B. Best, Colonial Secretary, H. B. Walcott, +Controller General, A. G. Bell, Director of Public Works, L. +Elphinstone, Solicitor-General, Colonel Mui, Commandant of the Local +Forces, Major Rust, acting President of the Civic Council, Rev. Dowling, +Catholic Archbishop, Dr. Ansley, Anglican Bishop, Sir Alfred Smith, +Chief Justice, also Justices Russell and Deane, and Father de Caignai, +Head of the Tunapuna Monastery. + +The official address, read by the Governor, made special mention of how +much the island owes to the British Navy, and the Prince in the course +of his reply also dwelt upon this matter: "You have well referred," he +said, "to the security enjoyed by Trinidad during the Great War, in +which the people of this colony contributed in worthy measure to the +victory of British arms. I am particularly glad to have this opportunity +of congratulating the colony upon its fine services, and of meeting some +of the gallant men whom it sent overseas. I am also much pleased to hear +the colony appreciates how much it owes to the Royal Navy for its +tranquil prosperity during those terrible years." Touching upon more +local matters, the Prince said the colony had given a high measure of +prosperity to those whose forbears had made it their home. It had also +provided new opportunities for progress and well-being for a large +immigrant population from His Majesty's Indian Empire. "I feel sure," he +added, "that all its people, not only long established but recently +arrived, will do all in their power to maintain its good traditions of +law-abiding progress and loyalty to British ideals." + +The Prince spent several days in Trinidad, driving through its thickly +wooded hills, past shady cocoa plantations, well-ordered coco-nut +groves, and fields of sugar-cane. He also visited the old-time Spanish +capital of St. Joseph, where an address was presented to him. He +attended in Port of Spain a state dinner and various other official +functions, besides inspecting a big gathering of children. In the course +of his remarks, replying to the toast of his health at the state dinner, +he said, "I saw a suggestion, before I left England, that the British +Empire might be willing to part with one or more of the British West +Indian Islands to a foreign power, and I should like to say here again +what I said in Barbados in March, that British subjects are not for +sale. I can assure you that the King and all of us in the old country +have very much at heart the welfare of Trinidad and all the British West +Indies, also of all other British possessions," a statement which cannot +be too often repeated in sentiment or exemplified in fact. + +Visits were paid to some of the oil-wells, which are already a source of +much wealth to Trinidad, and promise to become still more important in +the future. The famous pitch lake was a sight along the coast, +forty-five miles out. It is a semi-solidified deposit, lying in a +shallow hollow, a quarter of a mile in diameter, close to the sea, where +men have been digging out black slabs of asphalt for years without +making a perceptible hole. The lake is so near the coast that ships sail +practically up to it to carry away a product which is ultimately spread +over the streets of the world. Fifty thousand tons have been taken out +of it every year for a generation, and the level is estimated to have +sunk only about nine inches. Oil underlies the pitch in the vicinity and +a forest of derricks rises a quarter of a mile away. + +From Trinidad the Prince made a side trip to Demerara, British Guiana, +in the _Calcutta_, the _Renown_ being too big to cross the bar into +Georgetown harbour. All the sunny richness of this steamy sugar and +rice-growing corner of South America was in evidence when he landed at +Georgetown, immediately after the ceremonial visit of the Governor, Sir +William Collet. A fine West Indian guard-of-honour saluted him upon the +pier, and mixed crowds of Anglo-Saxons, negroes, East Indians and +Portuguese cheered in the decorated streets as he proceeded to the +Government buildings. Here more guards-of-honour were inspected, +including armed constabulary and militia. The Prince also shook hands +with a long line of returned men. Entering the building he found the +leaders of the local community assembled, including the principal +officials and their families. An address of welcome was read by Mr. +Brown, a coloured West Indian, senior elected member of the Court of +Policy. Archbishop Parry and General Rice were amongst those presented. + +In the course of his reply the Prince referred to the great potential +wealth of British Guiana and to the determination of its inhabitants to +develop their inheritance to the full. It was essential, he added, that +all parts and sections of the community should pull together loyally, in +order that their future might be assured, and particularly that the +great inland wealth of the colony might be laid open for the benefit of +all. He hoped their ex-service men would prove themselves as +public-spirited and useful citizens in time of peace as they had on +active service in the field. + +Two days passed in Demerara in the enjoyment of the hospitality of +the Governor and other leading residents. Visits were paid to a +largely-attended race meeting, to sugar and rice estates in the +swampy flats around the city, and to some very beautiful botanical +gardens, where the schools of the colony were assembled, and the Prince +passed down dense lines of negro, East Indian, and European children. + +[Illustration: SAMOA MAKES MERRY] + +[Illustration: TRINIDAD: IN THE DRAGON'S MOUTH] + +As the _Calcutta_ put out to sea ten thousand musical West Indian voices +on the Georgetown wharves joined with the light cruiser's band in the +strains of "Auld Lang Syne." Probably never in the history of this +important British outpost in South America has patriotic sentiment held +more undivided sway or the fact been made more clear that the hearts of +its flourishing inhabitants still turn faithfully to the old country. +Its people are looking to England at the moment with some hope, as well, +of that co-ordination of Imperial resources of which British Guiana +stands so much in need. The labour question has never before been so +acute. The recent abolition of the long-established Indian indentures +system, and therewith the cessation of immigration from India, has +synchronized with enormous increases in world prices and world demand +for the sugar which Demerara is so pre-eminently qualified to provide, +and for this more labour is wanted. + +The same question arises in connexion with new industrial developments, +now on the eve of fruition, which must add enormously to the position +that agricultural produce has already won for this colony. These will +come with the exploitation of vast deposits of bauxite-alumina, that +promise expansion of world-wide significance in connexion with steel +manufacture, into which this comparatively new mineral is entering +increasingly. The position, at the time of the Prince's visit, appeared +to be that a million sterling had been spent by an American Company upon +machinery and shipping and railway facilities for handling the ore, and +that its effectual arrival upon the market was only a matter of time. + +That an American Company should be spending such a large sum in the +development of natural resources in British territory, was not the least +interesting feature of the situation. It is to Anglo-American +co-operation that Demerara and also the British West Indies must look +increasingly for brains, initiative, and capital for the development of +natural resources which are as yet by no means fully utilized. + +The Prince returned to Trinidad through still steamy seas. Dawn on the +day after leaving Demerara found the _Calcutta_ passing the rocky +portals of the narrowest of the three channels which make up the famous +"Dragon's Mouth" entrance to the roadstead of Port of Spain. The shore +on the landward side of this entrance was dotted with pleasant +verandahed villas and fresh-tilled fields, signs of the civilization +which is pushing back the forest in all parts of the island. + +On reaching Port of Spain the Prince visited H.M.S. _Calliope_, a light +cruiser just arrived from the north. He also paid a farewell visit to +the Governor, and inspected the local fire brigade. In the evening he +returned to the _Renown_, which shortly afterwards heaved up her anchors +and left harbour for Grenada. + +At St. George's, the principal town of Grenada, the Prince landed on the +sheltered cove of Carenage, upon a decorated wharf on which was drawn up +a guard-of-honour of the West Indian regiment beneath the stone bastions +of an old French fort. He was received with every formality by the +principal officials, headed by Sir George Haddon-Smith, Governor of the +Windward Islands, Mr. Joyce Thomas, acting administrator of St. Vincent, +Mr. Herbert Fergusson, Colonial Secretary, Mr. E. Laborde, Colonial +Treasurer, and Sir Thomas Haycroft, Chief Justice, also the heads of the +local Anglican, Presbyterian, Methodist and Catholic Churches. +Thereafter, up steep streets decorated with flowery arches, beneath the +clanging bells of numerous churches, through smiling, bowing, cheering +crowds of cheerful West Indians and their gaily dressed women and +piccaninnies, he was taken by car to the colonial Court-House, where the +leading residents were assembled. He entered through a shaded courtyard, +where he shook hands with a number of returned men and officers. The +address was read in a low-ceilinged legislative assembly room, with wide +French windows commanding a wonderful view of city and harbour. + +In the course of his reply the Prince said the strength and spirit of +the British Commonwealth could not be fully grasped by anyone without +first-hand knowledge of the British Dominions and Colonies. "The more I +see of the King's world-wide possessions," he added, "the more deeply I +am impressed by the strength of the sentiment which binds them to the +Empire and the throne"--the truth of which was testified to by every +street he had passed through. + +The Prince was afterwards taken by motor into the interior, through some +of the most luxuriant vegetation in the world, past cocoa and nutmeg +plantations, up two thousand feet into the mountains, about the +forest-shaded depths of the circular lake of Grand Etang, the crater of +an extinct volcano. An official lunch and a garden-party at Government +House filled up the day, which ended with a reception given by the +Prince on the _Renown_ to the principal residents of the island. + +Leaving Grenada at daylight the _Renown_ threaded her way through the +clustering Grenadine Islands and past the steep twin green cones of the +inaccessible Piton peaks, and anchored near the Pigeon Rock--Admiral +Rodney's eighteenth-century naval base. + +The Prince, accompanied by Sir George Haddon-Smith, who had come on with +him from Grenada, landed at Castries at noon, where he was received by +Colonel Davidson-Houston, Administrator of St. Lucia, supported by Mr. +Anthony de Freitas, Chief Justice, and other members of the Executive +Council. St. Lucia's special arch was of coal, token of the colony's +importance as a West Indian coaling-station. From under it His Royal +Highness proceeded through decorated streets, the entire population of +which had assembled to welcome him. The first stopping-place was in +Columbus Square. Here, in the warm shade of big coco-nut palms and mango +trees, a thousand children were drawn up, each school flanked by +teachers, many of whom wore the black cassock of the Catholic Church. + +The Prince afterwards climbed a hill overlooking the town, and wandered +through the deserted barracks of historic fort Charlotte, where his +great-great-grandfather, the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, +hoisted the British flag in 1797, after the capture of the island by +forces under Sir Charles Grey and Sir John Jervis. Here, standing amidst +luxuriant tropical vegetation, he looked northward to the rocky Vigie +promontory, on which he could descry lines occupied by Sir William +Medow's thirteen hundred British, who in 1778 hurled back invading +enemies twelve thousand strong. Westward he looked over the muddy +Cul-de-sac Bay, where Sir Samuel Barrington, in the same year, fought a +desperate engagement with the French fleet under Count Destaing. +Eastward also the scene was full of historic interest, for here, beyond +the red roofs of Castries city, was visible a distant palm-shaded beach, +where Moore and Abercromby effected their landing in 1796. + +Descending the steep grassy Morne, the Prince afterwards attended a +popular reception at Government House, and thence went back to the +_Renown_. + +The still hot dawn of the following day found the ship passing the green +hills of the island of Martinique, birthplace of the Empress Josephine, +also the bare sea-girt Diamond Rock off its coast, where, a hundred +years ago, for eighteen lurid months, gallant Lieutenant Maurice and a +hundred and twenty men with five guns from H.M.S. _Centaur_ beat off +attack and themselves threatened all approach to the important harbour +of the enemy in Fort-de-France. Here also, towering into the clouds, +were visible the dim slopes of Mount Pelee, the eruption of which, +eighteen years before, had brought death in a few hours to forty +thousand people. + +Thereafter, through summer seas, crossing the place of the decisive +battle of the Saints, the _Renown_ pushed on, anchoring before noon off +the pleasant town of Roseau, capital of Dominica Island, and +head-quarters of the lime-juice industry of the world. As she neared the +shore, the ship was met by the sound of cheerful bells, reflected out to +sea from church towers backing upon green hills that rose into peaks, +extending tier beyond tier in the interior, in such tumbled form that +Columbus, describing it to his Queen, compared the island to a fistful +of crumpled paper. Here the light cruisers _Calcutta_ and _Cambrian_ +joined the _Renown_, the three vessels making a fine show as they lay +together, decked with bunting, in the brilliant sunshine of the +roadstead. + +The Prince landed at a decorated pier jutting out into the harbour. He +was welcomed by Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, +Mr. Robert Walter, a descendant of the founder of "The Times," +Administrator of Dominica, Dr. Nichols, Senior Member of the Senate, and +other leading residents. A guard-of-honour of the local defence force +was in attendance, and a crowd of gaily-dressed West Indians. A little +group of yellow Malay-faced Caribs, representing the survivors of these +now nearly extinct aborigines, stood on one side. Their chief, an old +man in top-hat and black coat, was one of those with whom the Prince +shook hands. The scene as the Prince proceeded inland from the wharf, +with cheering West Indians racing alongside his car, was one of much +quaint excitement and enthusiasm. He was taken in procession through +decorated streets, masses of coloured Dominicans and their womenfolk +clapping, shouting and laughing as he passed. "Than' God I not die las' +week," was one pious cry, to the accompaniment of the widest grin. + +Some beautiful botanical gardens, containing big trees, all grown in the +space of twenty-seven years, were inspected, and a visit paid to +Government House, which stands in pleasant, shady grounds. The Prince +re-embarked in the _Renown_ at sunset. + +Unlike most of the other West Indian islands, which did well out of +sugar during the war, Dominica, when the Prince visited it, was +recovering only slowly from war depression which had hit its previously +flourishing lime industry hard. This very depression, however, had +increased the available openings for newcomers, good land offering at +very reasonable rates. As the result, we were told, increasing numbers +of returned men were settling there, with bright hopes of making good +amongst beautiful surroundings and in a climate which is one of +perpetual summer. + +At Monserrat, a small island with open, cultivated fields contrasting +with the dense tropical jungle of Dominica, the Prince was received by +Mr. Condell, the Commissioner, and other leading inhabitants of the +colony, which is prospering in the good prices at present offering for +its sea-island cotton. Boiling sulphur springs, in a vast rocky cauldron +of steam, upon a mountain-side covered with aromatic cinnamon gardens +and flourishing fields of sea-cotton and potatoes, were things to see if +not to smell. The Prince was cheered by crowds of coloured folk, who, in +their broken English, still retain distinct traces of a brogue inherited +from one side of an ancestry which dates back to 1664, when Irish +immigrants were taken to the island by Sir Thomas Warner. It was a +quaint mixture. + +The _Renown_ put out to sea in still murky weather, with a yellow ring +round the moon, signs significant to all sailor eyes, and not rendered +more cheerful by the knowledge that a wireless message had reached the +ship, reporting one hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico and another off the +coast of Texas. + +The _Renown_ slipped through a smooth sea, however, to Antigua, +completely escaping bad weather. Antigua proved to be another open +island, not unlike Monserrat. The ship anchored five miles at sea off +St. John's, a small sheltered harbour in which, three centuries ago, +Prince Rupert successfully attacked two of Cromwell's ships. Here a +number of wooden fishing boats, of half a dozen different nationalities, +formed a lane of many-coloured bunting through which the Prince's +picket-boat was conducted to a decorated wharf. + +Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, who had come on +in the _Renown_, Mr. Johnston, Colonial Secretary, Mr. Griffith, +Colonial Treasurer, Very Rev. Shepherd, Dean of Antigua, and members of +the local Executive and Legislative Councils welcomed the Prince at the +landing-stage. Thereafter, through decorated streets of dazzling white +wooden houses, reflecting back the tropical sun, and alive with cheering +coloured folk, the Prince went in procession to the old colonial +Court-House. Here, in the presence of an assemblage of the leading +citizens and their families, an address of welcome was read by Mr. +Griffin, Chief Justice of Antigua. + +The Prince replying, referred to Nelson's having refitted his ships in +this island before the Trafalgar campaign. He once again testified that +his own travels had been a wonderful experience and that he hoped to +have many opportunities of repeating and extending them in the future. + +A pretty function followed on the breezy cricket ground, where a +surprisingly large gathering of white school-children, besides masses of +coloured mites, cheered the Prince enthusiastically. A state luncheon +was afterwards given by the Governor, followed by a popular reception in +Government House Grounds. The _Renown_ then sailed for the Bermudas, and +the Royal visit to the West Indies, during which the Prince's cheery +presence had produced the happiest impression, was over. The pleasure of +the Europeans at seeing him in their isolated corner of the globe was +almost pathetic. For those of West Indian blood the occasion was also a +memorable one. It certainly revived feelings of solidarity with Great +Britain which have sometimes been strained by that preaching of +race-prejudice from which no people situated as these are can ever be +completely exempt, be the white administration never so tactful. + +Never, perhaps, has there been greater occasion for tact, as well as +strength and sympathy, in the political guidance of the Islands than +exists to-day. At the moment the West Indians are exceedingly prosperous +on the whole, owing to the phenomenal war-prices their sugar, cotton and +other produce have been fetching in the markets of the world. But the +quarter of century or so of lean years that preceded the last half-dozen +fat ones, have limited their outlook and retarded their development in +all directions. They have become isolated. They lie between two worlds, +with a tendency to take their ideas from their neighbour the United +States rather than from the distant Mother Country or from Canada. + +The only public information of any interest reaching them by cable of +happenings throughout the world is supplied through New York. American +capital is displacing British for the development of their mineral and +other resources. Their agricultural produce tends more and more to find +its way to the United States. Their visitors from Great Britain and the +Dominions are few compared with those arriving from America; yet that +this state of things can be changed is proved by the partial revival in +relations with the British Empire that has followed the conclusion of +the recent admirable West-Indian-Canadian Agreement. + +This agreement, however, is only one step in the right direction, and +requires to be followed by many more. Direct steamers and direct cable +communication with Great Britain are specially needed. The growing +demand of the West Indian population for progress towards +self-government, within the Empire, is also a matter of which the +importance cannot be too strongly emphasized, though self-government +cannot be realized without local readiness to face additional taxation +and expenditure. + +The splendid colonial Civil Service, sent out from London, has governed +the British West Indies faithfully and well for many years, despite +inadequate remuneration, and often discouraging deficiency in +recognition from public opinion at home; but the day when rectitude in +administration and efficiency in maintaining security and justice were +sufficient by themselves to satisfy the imagination of a coloured people +is passing away. The time is coming for new developments, in the +interests alike of the West Indies and of the Empire as a whole. + +The direction these developments must take is indicated by the nature of +the situation that stands so plainly in view. Its evolution upon +practical lines, in relation to the all-important question of the +raising of funds necessary to pay for direct steamers and cable services +and the attraction of settlers and capital from the British Empire, is a +matter that, though difficult, is no longer impossible as in the past, +for the reason that the recent growth in material prosperity in the +islands has removed the bar hitherto existing to proposals for new +taxation. In all consideration of the matter, of course, the fact has to +be envisaged that the post-war conditions, which are affecting the +world as a whole, are potent also in the British West Indies, and that +no policy which does not take them into account can remain at all +permanently in force in these important islands. + +The position of the negro population in the United States necessarily +reacts upon that of the corresponding people under British rule. +Propaganda is undoubtedly passing from negro organs in the Republic to +all the British islands. This propaganda takes into consideration the +political conditions in Cuba and Puertorico, which differ +constitutionally from those obtaining in the British West Indian +colonies. It has also to be remembered that the constitutions of the +various individual British islands differ amongst themselves, and that +the formulation of a uniform policy for their development may reasonably +be looked for in the near future. Such a policy must recognize the +interests of the labouring classes as well as of the old planter +families. It would seem, at present, that the Governments have some +difficulty in reconciling these two points of view, towards which they +have equal responsibilities. + + + + +XXV + +THE BERMUDAS + + +The picturesque islands of Bermuda, in the North Atlantic, the last +halting-place upon the Prince's tour, put up a brave show in honour of +the Royal visitor. The _Renown_ anchored at daylight on 1st October in +the open sea off what is known as "Five Fathom Hole," where the cobalt +of the deeper sea shaded into greenish patches above treacherous coral +reefs. Through tortuous channels the _Calcutta_, to which the Prince had +transhipped, felt her way, skirting on her left a prominent rock +celebrated as the "Ducking Stool," testing-spot of seventeenth-century +witches and place of punishment of scolds, where a battery of artillery +fired a salute. A little inland of the Ducking Stool a green hummock +rose, topped by Government House. Admiralty House also stood out +pre-eminent amongst smaller villas. On the right, as the _Calcutta_ +passed on, curved a long sickle-shaped arm of rock forming the other +side of the harbour, and terminating in the white sheds and +fortifications of the naval dockyard. In the middle were tiny rocky +islets between which the _Calcutta_ steered with margin only of a few +feet on either side. Upon the way the U.S.A. battleship _Kansas_, under +Rear-Admiral Hughes, a vessel sent to Bermuda by the United States +Government in honour of the Prince's visit, fired a welcoming salute. + +Coral-rock houses are a characteristic feature of Bermuda. They are +built of squared blocks sawn out of the hillside, and have sloping roofs +of similar stone rendered watertight with cement. One finds them +everywhere. In the country their grey walls and roofs are surrounded by +wildernesses of brilliant flowers, including purple bougainvilleas, the +aptly named "flamboyants," and pink oleanders, with smooth lawns, +terraced vineyards, and overgrown vegetable gardens sheltered by sombre +conifers. In the city one finds sky-scraper hotels and substantial +offices, workshops of Bermuda's principal industry, which is that of +catering for the American tourist, who flies to this sunny spot to +escape the New York winter, and dine where he may still drink. + +The Prince's visit took place in the off-season of hot weather when the +principal hotels are closed. The entire city had nevertheless been +decorated, and a large proportion of the twenty thousand inhabitants the +islands boast, assembled along the Club Wharf in Hamilton City, where +the landing took place. They consisted, for the most part, of cheerful +negroes and coloured folk, with a considerable proportion of +well-dressed whites, including many Americans. A guard-of-honour of the +Royal Sussex Regiment, in familiar khaki, stood to attention on the +landing-stage, rifle-barrels gleaming in the fierce sun. Here also +waited Sir James Willcocks in white uniform ablaze with war medals, also +Admirals Hughes and Everett and their staffs, and the principal civilian +officials in the perspiring black morning dress of more temperate zones. + +The Prince and his staff landed unostentatiously in white naval kit +from a brass-funnelled steam picket-boat. The usual procession of +carriages was formed, after the reception formalities, each drawn by a +fine pair of horses, and the Prince was taken through decorated streets +to the House of Assembly, where he inspected a guard-of-honour composed +of seamen from H.M.S. _Calcutta_. Within were assembled members of the +Executive and Legislative Councils and other leading residents and their +families, in the garb with which civilized ceremony defies temperatures +the world over. + +The Governor read an address of welcome, in the course of which he +reminded the Prince of their having met in France, where he, Sir James, +was in command of the Indian Army Corps. The Prince, in the course of +his reply, referred to the celebration of the tercentenary of the +establishment of representative institutions in Bermuda, then taking +place in the island, having been postponed for a month to coincide with +his own visit. He also acknowledged the courtesy of the United States +Government in sending the U.S.S. _Kansas_ to meet him. In conclusion he +touched upon the impressions left upon himself by his tour and its +lesson of the unity, strength and devotion which bind all parts of His +Majesty's dominions to British ideals. + +Later on in the garden of the public buildings the Prince laid the +foundation-stone of a war-memorial, the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps +and Militia artillery furnishing guards-of-honour, and relatives of +fallen men being presented. + +On the following day the Prince inspected the Royal Navy dockyard, and +placed a wreath upon the grave of the late Admiral Napier, until +recently in command of the Royal West Indian squadron, who was one of +the victims of an outbreak of typhoid in these islands. He also paid a +farewell visit to H.M.S. _Calcutta_, Flagship of the Royal West Indian +Squadron, which had been his escort throughout the tour in these waters, +and said good-bye to its officers and men, at the same time conferring +the Knight Commandership of the Victorian Order upon Admiral Everett, +and the Companionship on Captain Noble, R.N. + +The final day of the Prince's visit to Bermuda found him at St. George, +the quaint coral-built old capital, to which he drove himself from +Government House, Hamilton, in a high-seated mail phaeton, with two +horses, Sir James Willcocks beside him. The drive was twelve miles along +the coast, through most beautiful country, a fresh sea-breeze mitigating +the heat, which had previously been trying. Much of the way the road was +shaded by feathery Lignum-vitæ trees, here known as cedars, which have +deliciously scented wood and were once a rich asset for shipbuilding. +Flowering groves of pink oleander, dense thickets of scarlet, pink and +yellow hibiscus, purple masses of bougainvilleas bordered the way, which +was past garden after garden of the wonderful rich red loam which has +won for Bermuda potatoes, Bermuda onions and Bermuda bananas a +reputation almost world-wide. + +_En route_ the Prince alighted to look into the shadowy depths of the +Devil's Grotto, a deep rock-bound pool of clearest water connected with +the sea, in which big fish of brilliant colours swim lazily. He also +wandered hundreds of yards underground, through an extraordinary rift in +the coral formation known as the Crystal cave, from hundreds of +thousands of semi-transparent stalactites, many of them reaching from +floor to ceiling, in some cases overhanging still pools of clear salt +water, or forming grotesque figures, with which the electric lamps, that +light the place, played the most fantastic tricks. The cave is one of a +number in different parts of the islands, and claims to be of +extraordinary antiquity, the stalactites growing at so slow a rate that +a hundred thousand years are believed to be represented by a mere +fraction of their length. + +The entire route from Hamilton to St. George had been decorated, the +arches representing an immense amount of willing labour. One of them had +been solidly constructed of square blocks of sawn coral rock by coloured +volunteers, who had built it at night after their ordinary working hours +were over. Another, which had been put up by members of the garrison, +was a wonderfully worked-out reproduction of the sailing ship _Patience_ +built near by, over three hundred years ago, by which the shipwrecked +crew of Sir George Somer's ship _Sea Venture_ made their way to +Virginia. This arch was entirely constructed of the local cedar, which +was the wood used in building the _Patience_. + +At St. George the Prince was entertained by Mayor Boyle and members of +the local town council, the Mayor's tiny but very self-possessed +grand-daughter presenting a bouquet, the last local attention of the +tour. He was given a great send-off when he finally embarked by launch +to rejoin the _Renown_ waiting for him beyond the reefs with the end of +her mission in sight and her blunt grey nose pointing toward home. + +Eight days later, on the 11th October, early in the morning, the heart +of England turned for a moment to her old harbour of Portsmouth, where, +through one of her own October fogs, her great battle-cruiser was +drawing majestically into port, bringing home from his second journey to +kinsfolk the eldest son of her Royal House. Perhaps the heart of England +felt a certain pride.... + + + + +XXVI + +THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TOUR + + This Chapter is, by kind permission, largely reproduced from an + article by the writer published in the "Nineteenth Century" of + December, 1920. + + +"The tumult and the shouting dies," and what, now that it is over, +remains to Britain of the enterprise? What treasure came back in the +_Renown_ to make this Royal adventure worth while? + +The word may be disputed. The nation's heir, it may be said, does not +adventure in travelling to the hearths of kinsfolk. There is no +adventure in a voyage surrounded by every means of safety and comfort +that modern science can devise, a voyage backed by the blessing and sped +by the hope and pride of this sound old Mother Country. Yet in the fluid +state of social and political emotion to-day it was an adventure, a +challenge in the very teeth of those unbridled forces that are so +blatant and busy in the disservice of the British Empire, and a +challenge before which not one of them raised its head. + +The constantly recurring scene of the Prince making acquaintance with +overseas audiences is long since familiar. It has been depicted in the +columns of hundreds of newspapers and actually thrown before the eyes +of thousands in cinemas. It is far more than a twice-told tale that His +Royal Highness was everywhere received with enthusiasm which was +altogether phenomenal, that he was everywhere able to draw the whole of +the inhabitants of the places he visited away from their business, their +occupation or their pleasure, to concentrate during the time he was +amongst them, the whole of their attention and interest upon himself, +and the idea of race, Empire and loyalty for which he stands. In so far +as the hackneyed words of newspaper reports can produce that effect, +their reiteration must by now have turned the remarkable scenes of his +progress into a kind of Royal commonplace, and retired them into the +back of the popular imagination as matters to be taken for granted. It +is difficult to put into terms of flags and decorations, patriotic songs +and calculated multitudes, however gay and hoarse and unexampled, +anything of the fine essence discharged from men's hearts and minds that +made the soul of these occasions. Only perhaps to those who actually saw +them will they survive conventional description, as experiences of the +rare sort that baffle it. It did not seem to matter who his audiences +were. Keen, sharp American business men with square jaws and shrewd +eyes, to whom a Prince would necessarily hover somewhere between a +figure of mediaeval romance and a comic anachronism, proved no less +susceptible to the something he has to offer than the crowds of our own +family in New Zealand, Tasmania or New South Wales. Queensland, with its +advanced Labour Government, its public ownership of utilities and +enterprises, its schedules of progress in which at least no conspicuous +place is allotted to Royal personages, proved just as enthusiastic as +did conservative New Zealand. Centres of culture, learning and wealth +like Sydney and Melbourne, showed exactly the same spirit as did rough +mining and logging camps, and lonely sheep stations in the far interior. +Cornish gold diggers of Bendigo and Ballarat rivalled the cordial +welcome of the Welsh coal-miners of Westport and Greymouth. Catholic +Irishmen newly arrived in cattle stations in Northern and Western +Australia mustered as keenly in honour of the Prince as Presbyterian +farmers in settled Tasmania. Fuzzy-headed Fijians, dignified Samoans, +Polynesians of Honolulu, negroes of Demerara and Trinidad seethed and +bubbled with like enthusiasm. + +There was more than the personal factor in an appeal so widely honoured, +more than the touch of romance upon imaginations untravelled along Royal +roads, yet recollection harks back irresistibly to the spectacle of the +human equation as between the Prince and his audiences. There is no +other way of explaining their quick pleasure at the sight of him and +their instant and unerring formulas for his relation to themselves and +to the world. Anything mechanical, anything perfunctory, would have worn +out with the first gratification of curiosity; but a point which struck +the onlooker was that enthusiasm grew instead of cooling off, as the +Prince's visit to each place continued and as acquaintance with him +ripened. "Yes, but only once," was a little Australian girl's wistful +answer when asked if she had seen the Prince. Nor were children of a +larger growth content with only once. Their eyes could not be too well +filled with this young symbol of their race and Empire, whose person +pleased them and whose negligence of the pomp and privileges their +minds had given him upset their preconceptions with a thrill of delight. +To be of the Imperial present, with its dignity and untarnished +splendour, to come of the Royal past with its long discipline of duty +and decoration of anointed names, and to let it all sink as the Prince +lets it sink into the simplest background of his personality, is an +achievement--or should it be called just a habit--which makes at once +the happiest appeal to human nature, the world over. He does not even +appear to be aware that these things should do anything for him. He is +as diffident as, say, the naval officer who blocked Zeebrugge harbour or +the flight-lieutenant who brought down the first Zeppelin over London. +The touch is British and of the essence. It is an odd inconsistency of +race consciousness which makes us recognize and take pride in it, but we +do. Another characteristic almost as immediately perceived by an +audience is the Prince's plain delight in giving pleasure, his obvious +satisfaction in doing the thing that he has to do and doing it well. +There are endless stories of his disregard of physical fatigue in the +desire to take out of himself every ounce that could be given to the +gratification of public gatherings. There is never a hint of boredom in +his face or bearing. Thus the bond of sympathy is complete. The people +are there and he is there for the same purpose, and nothing breaks the +circuit of goodwill. There was something naïve and touching in the +constantly possessive note that hailed him "ours" from the wharfs of +Sydney to the string-bark avenues of Perth; and to this claim also +something in the Prince responds with an unselfishness that might be the +supreme lesson of kings. + +The Prince's personality is greatly deepened and broadened by his +speeches, which in their simplicity and directness are perfectly the +expression of himself. They never exaggerate, and they never fall short. +They are pervaded by a sincerity that is perhaps more than anything the +secret of their instant appeal. There is no forcing of the note, no +effort at elaboration, no sacrifice to rhetorical points. Withal he says +the things that people instinctively expect and want to hear, and he +says them with a happy grace and a plain belief in the message that +underlies them all, the assurance of the strength and solidarity of the +Empire for which he speaks. + +The whole projection of this Royal personality upon the world is +extraordinary. Look at the circumstances under which it is made. The +passionate under-trend of society towards the dogmas of democracy, the +tragic extinction, within the last five years, of more than one dynasty, +the perpetual tendency of privilege, royal as well as any other, to +liquesce into the common stream of human rights, are all against him. +One would have supposed that roses strewn in the path of a Prince, at +this point of the world's history, if strewn at all, would be none of +nature's growing. Yet this Prince seems to prove that the King and the +King's heir are far more a part of the people and bred from the nation, +than any president. The Prince stands for the people. His character has +been formed, his ideals fostered by healthy English training. It may +possibly not be far-fetched to say that he is the product of intensive +cultivation along national lines. Thus he appeals to the nation's pride +of possession, and his place in their hearts is ready before he occupies +it. + +It is no depreciation of the personal magnetism of the Heir to the +Throne to say that he brought to light and stimulated Imperial +enthusiasm already existing below the surface, and waiting only to be +evoked, rather than that he created anything not already in being. +Nevertheless, it must be remembered that the idea of the Empire as a +union of sister nations co-operating and sharing ideals and hopes in a +future they are bound together to bring about, is a young idea, as young +as the Prince. It is not long since the Dominions and India had little +beyond domestic affairs to exercise their powers of administration upon; +their share in the Imperial idea was largely commercial, and chiefly +concerned with the attraction of capital for the development of their +natural resources. They had no voice in the world policy of the +Anglo-Saxon race, and no apparent prospect of getting it. The Prince and +his youth happily blend in the new partnership and the new prospect, +making for all of us a very potential figure. Beside the charm, the +buoyancy of youth, he has the romance of an epoch of world history full +of possibilities for the peoples who live under the British flag. To +this romance he contributes all that he is, and he contributes it in the +most whole-hearted manner. + +The Prince was never tired of referring in his speeches to the bond +created by common service in the great war. Wherever he went it was the +returned soldier that he must see and greet, wounded or whole--how often +has this chronicle had to dwell upon the long lines of them. "Returned +sailors and soldiers, relations of the fallen, nurses and war-workers," +backed by the shouting school-children--they have risen perhaps with +some iteration before the eye of those who have followed the tale. But, +looking back, the splendour fades out of the tropic sky and the opulence +out of the great city, the whole panorama of sheep-run and factory, +orchard and mine rolls up into a decoration; and the meaning of all we +saw abides in those men and women and children working out their lot and +their lives far from the home of the race, but standing, and ready to +stand again, for its flag and its ideals. + +"One heritage we share though seas divide," declared the citizens of +Sydney with the emphasis of a triumphal arch. The claim rang true. +Distance cannot weaken this tie, nor oceans wash it out. No one +undervalues the picturesqueness of the emotion the Prince has evoked +amongst members of other races living under Anglo-Saxon tutelage and +protection, but the real significance is in what it has drawn from +peoples of our own stock. Supreme among the values that come out of it +is the enduring quality of the British portion in the things of the mind +and of character, in ideals, and standards. It is no vague sentiment +that binds together the various branches of our people, but a unity that +lives. The part of the Prince of Wales has been to waken a new +consciousness throughout the Anglo-Saxon world. He stands for all that +joins us and for all that we can do when we are together. + + + + +INDEX + + + Acapulco, 216 + + Adams (Sir Hamilton G.), 178 + + Addison (Organizer, Tasmania), 209 + + Adelaide, 164 + + Albany, 140 + + Allan (Pte. Duncan), 193 + + Allardice (Sir Wm.), 170 + + Allen (Captain M. C.), 129 + + American Kindness, 26, 215 + + American-West-Indian Relations, 233 + + Amiens, 179 + + Anglo-American Co-operation, 226 + + Ansley (Bishop, Trinidad), 222 + + Antigua, 231 + + _Anzac_ (H.M.A.S.), 101 + + Arthur's Pass, 81 + + Ashburton, 94 + + Atkinson (Mr. Robert), 31 + + Auckland, 47 + + _Australia_ (H.M.A.S.), 46, 176 + + Australian Bight, 140 + + Avaro Obregon, 217 + + + Baker (Broken Hill Co.), 138 + + Balboa, 19, 23 + + Balclutha, 97 + + Ballarat, 109 + + Barbados, 9 + + Barton (Sir Edmund), 125 + + Barwell (Premier, S. Australia), 163, 164, 165 + + Bass Strait, 176 + + Bathurst, 193 + + Beerburrum, 189 + + Bell (Mr. Norris), 158 + + Bell (Mr. A. G.), 221 + + Bellringer (Mr. F.), 63 + + Bendigo, 110 + + Bennett (Brig.-General), 130 + + Bennett (Mr. Percy), 15 + + Bermuda, 236 + + Berry (Sir Graham), 105 + + Best (Mr. de B.), 221 + + Bethell (Major-General), 15 + + Black (Mr. Stuart), 108 + + Blake (Captain, R.N.), 15 + + Blayney, 206 + + Blenheim, 74 + + Blinman (Organizer, S. Australia), 209 + + Blue Mountains, 192 + + Board (Director Education, N.S.W.), 127 + + Boonah, 188 + + Boyle (Mayor, St. George), 240 + + Bridges (General), 132 + + Bridgetown, 10, 152 + + Brighton, 174 + + Brisbane, 182 + + Brisbane River, 183, 185 + + Broken Hills Proprietary Co., 137 + + Brown (Mayor, Napier), 67 + + Brown (Member, Court of Policy), 224 + + Brunner Valley, 80 + + Bulla Bulling, 155 + + Buller River, 76, 80 + + Butler (Architect), 108 + + + _Calcutta_ (H.M.S.), 10, 223 + + _Calliope_ (H.M.S.), 80, 226 + + _Cambrian_ (H.M.S.), 230 + + Camperdown, 107 + + Canadian-West-Indian Agreement, 233 + + Canberra, 119, 132 + + Canobolas Mountains, 207 + + Canoubar, 194 + + Canterbury Plain, 94 + + Carroll (Sir James), 57 + + Carruthers (General), 24 + + Carter (Lady), 11 + + Casino, 187 + + Castlemaine, 110 + + Castries, 228 + + Cattaneo (Monsignor), 185, 187 + + Chancellor (Sir John), 221 + + Charlotte Sound, 73 + + Charlotte Bay, 95 + + Chaytor (General Sir E.), 61, 98 + + Christchurch, 81, 83 + + Christian (Brig.-General), 130 + + Claremount, 146 + + Clifford (Capt. Hon. B.), 209 + + Colac, 106 + + Collier (Mr. P.), 141 + + Colon, 220 + + Condell (Commissioner, Monserrat), 231 + + Cook (Sir Joseph), 112, 118 + + Coolgardie, 155 + + Coonamble, 193 + + Cooroy, 189 + + Coronado Beach, 25 + + Cottisloe, 146 + + Culebra Cut, 18 + + Cullen (Sir William), 128 + + Cutler (N.S.W., Shipbuilding), 136 + + + Dalrymple (Colonel S.), 66 + + Dannevirke, 68 + + Davidson-Houston (Colonel), 228 + + Deane (Judge, Trinidad), 222 + + de Caignai (Father), 222 + + de Freitas (Mr. Anthony), 228 + + Delprat (Broken Hills Co.), 137 + + Demerara, 223 + + Dodds (Brig.-General), 112, 209 + + Dominica, 229 + + Dragon's Mouth, 226 + + Dubbo, 206 + + Dowling (Archbishop, Trinidad), 222 + + Duhig (Archbishop, Queensland), 187 + + Dumaresq (Commodore), 121, 209 + + Duncan-Hughes (Capt. J. G.), 209 + + Dunedin, 95 + + Duntroon, 131 + + + Eden, 176 + + Elphinstone (Solicitor-General, Trinidad), 221 + + Estell (Minister of Works, Commonwealth), 136 + + Everett (Admiral), 237, 239 + + + Farm Park, 184 + + Farm Cove, 121 + + Fassifern, 135 + + Father of the Ship, 36 + + Featherston, 69 + + Fechan (Australian New Zealand Co.), 194 + + Feilding, 66 + + Fergusson (Mr. Herbert), 227 + + Fihelly (Acting Premier, Queensland), 178, 185, 190, 208. + + Fiji, 41, 211 + + Frankton, 62 + + Fraser (Sir William), 61, 98 + + Fremantle, 145 + + + Galbraith (Mayor, Ashburton), 94 + + Gatun Locks, 15 + + Gawler, 163 + + Geelong, 105 + + Georgetown, 223 + + Gibson (Mayor, Newcastle), 139 + + Gisborne, 100 + + Gore, 97 + + Gosford, 139 + + Grand Etang, 227 + + Grant (Rear-Admiral), 112, 118, 209 + + Great Dividing Range, 110 + + Great North West, 146 + + Grenada, 226 + + Greymouth, 79, 80 + + Griffin (Ch. Justice, Leeward Is.), 232 + + Griffith (Colonial Treasurer, Antigua), 232 + + Grigg (Lt.-Colonel Sir E.), 37 + + Groom (Minister Works, Commonwealth), 133 + + Gunn (S. Australian Labour Party), 165 + + Gympie, 189 + + + Haddon-Smith (Sir George), 226, 228 + + Hagley Park, 82 + + Halsey (Admiral Sir Lionel), 36, 150 + + Hamilton, 53, 240 + + Hamilton (Mr. Gavin), 98 + + Hamilton (Lord Claud), 37 + + Hankins (Mrs. J. H.), 66 + + Hapa Tenure, 54 + + Harding (Engineer-Colonel, Panama Canal), 16 + + Harrisville, 188 + + Hastings, 68 + + Hawaii, 30 + + Hawera, 64 + + Hawkes Bay, 67 + + Hawkesbury River, 135 + + Hay (Mr. Clifford), 209 + + Haycroft (Sir Thomas), 227 + + Heritage (Colonel F. B.), 209 + + High Street, 177 + + Hinemoa (Princess), 55 + + Hislop (Mr. James), 61, 98 + + Hobart, 170 + + Hobbs (General Sir Talbot), 142 + + Hobson (Captain, R.N.), 48 + + Hodgson (N.S.W. Railways), 178 + + Hokitika, 79 + + Holmes (Otira Tunnel), 81 + + Holloway (Mr. E. J.), 113 + + Honolulu, 27, 215 + + Huntley, 54 + + Hughes (Rt. Hon. William), 103, 112 + + Hughes (Rear-Admiral), 236 + + Humphries (W. Australian Saw Mills), 148 + + Hutt Valley, 69 + + _Hygeia_ (S.S.), 102 + + + Inangahua, 78, 79 + + Invercargill, 97 + + Ipswich, 188 + + + Jackaroo (The), 195 + + James (Capt. R.), 209 + + Jellibrand (Major-Gen. Sir J.), 170 + + Jervis Bay, 118 + + Jobson (Brig.-Gen.), 130 + + Johnston (Admiral), 16 + + Johnston (Colonial Secretary, Leeward Is.), 232 + + + Kaahumanu (Queen), 34 + + Kaitangata, 97 + + Kalgoorlie, 156 + + Kamshamcha (King), 34 + + _Kansas_ (U.S.S.), 236 + + Kawananakoa (Princess), 32 + + Kelso, 193 + + Kennedy (Colonel), 16 + + Kidnappers' Island, 67 + + King's Kava, 44, 214 + + Kyneton, 110 + + + Laborde (Mr. E.), 227 + + Landsborough, 189 + + Lascelles (Messrs. & Co. etc.), 106 + + Lathlain (Mayor, Perth), 141, 142, 143 + + Launceston, 173 + + Lawson, 193 + + Lee (Sir Walter), 170 + + Lefevre (Señor), 15 + + Legge (General), 131 + + Leigh (Capt. Hon. Piers), 37 + + Lennon (Hon. Mr.), 178 + + Liliuokalani (Queen), 28 + + Liverpool (Earl of), 98 + + Liverpool Hills, 182 + + Lloyd (Brig.-General H. W.), 112, 209 + + Lockyer Plain, 182 + + Loma Point, 23 + + Lucas (Messrs. & Co.), 108 + + Luke (Mayor, Wellington), 69 + + Lyttleton, 83 + + + McDougall (Sergeant, V.C.), 170 + + MacDougall (Wire factory), 138 + + McEwan (Australian and N.Z. Land Co.), 193 + + McCarthy (Governor, Hawaii), 30, 215, 216 + + MacDonald (Opposition, N.Z. Govt.), 98 + + McGeachie (Mr. Duncan), 136 + + McLeod (Canoubar Run), 194 + + MacMillan (Justice), 141 + + MacNamara, (Mr. D. L.), 113 + + Macquarie Lake, 136 + + McVilly (N.Z. Railways), 62, 98 + + Malietoa Laupepa, 213 + + Malietoa Tanumafili, 213 + + Manawatu River, 66 + + Markham (Panama Canal Officer), 220 + + Martin (Brig.-General), 130 + + Martinique, 229 + + Marton, 65 + + Maryborough, 189 + + Massey (Rt. Hon. William), 50, 59 + + Mataura, 97 + + Maungatapu, 75 + + Maxwell (Mayor, Brisbane), 183 + + Melbourne, 101 + + Mereweather (Sir Edward), 230, 232 + + Miller (Sir Dennison), 125 + + Milner (Dr. F.), 95 + + Miraflores, 19 + + Mitchell (Premier, W. Australia), 141, 144, 149 + + Moana Hotel, 215 + + Mokoia, 55 + + Monserrat, 231 + + Moonee Valley, 117 + + Morgan (Mr. F. H.), 62 + + Mosgiel, 97 + + Moulder (Mayor, Adelaide), 164, 169 + + Mountbatten (Lord Louis), 39 + + Mount Egmont, 63 + + Mount Wallace, 97 + + Mui (Colonel), 222 + + Mundaring Weir, 154 + + Murchison, 78 + + Murray River, 110 + + Mutch (Education Minister, N.S.W.), 127 + + Myowera, 194 + + + Napier, 67 + + Napier (Admiral), 238 + + Nelson Park, 67 + + Nelson, 74, 75 + + Neptune on the _Renown_, 35 + + Newcastle, 135, 136 + + Newdegate (Sir Francis), 141 + + _New Mexico_ (U.S.S.), 23 + + New Plymouth, 63 + + Newport (Surgeon, Commander), 151 + + New South Wales, 116 + + New York Hospitality, 26 + + Ngata (Hon. Mr. A. T.), 57 + + Ngaruawahia, 53 + + Ngauruhoe, 63 + + Niall (Canoubar Estate), 194 + + Nichols (Senator, Dominica), 230 + + Noble (Captain, R.N.), 239 + + North (Captain, R.N.), 36 + + North Island, 59 + + Nullarbor Plain, 158 + + Nyngan, 195 + + + Oamaru, 95 + + O'Brien (Sir Charles), 10 + + O'Donovan (N.Z. Police), 98 + + Ogden (Tasmanian Govt., Opposition), 171 + + Oliver (Shire President, Coonamble), 193 + + Otira, 81 + + Otway Forest, 107 + + + Pahiatua, 68 + + Palmerston-North, 66 + + Panama, 15, 219 + + Parallah, 174 + + Parramatta, 135 + + Parkerville, 141 + + Parry (Archbishop, Demerara), 224 + + Patea, 64 + + Patrick (Lt.-Commander, R.N.), 130 + + Port Adelaide, 168 + + Port Augusta, 163 + + Port Chalmers, 96, 97 + + Port Melbourne, 118 + + Port of Spain, 221 + + Port Phillip, 100 + + Portsmouth, 1, 241 + + President of Panama, 20 + + Pukikura Park, 63 + + + Queanbeyan, 131 + + Queensland, 176 + + Quorn, 163 + + + Rai Hills, 75 + + Railways (N.Z.), 88 + + Rangitoto, 48 + + Red-legs, 13 + + _Renown_ (H.M.S.), 3 + + Reefton, 79 + + Rhodes (Mr. Tahu), 98 + + Rice (General), 224 + + Riley (Archbishop, Perth), 144 + + Rimutaka, 69 + + Roberts (Mrs.), 170 + + Robinson (Lt.-Colonel), 209 + + Rodondo Island, 100 + + Rodwell (Sir Cecil), 42 + + Rosenthal (Major-General Sir C.), 130 + + Rotorua, 57 + + Ruahine, 65 + + Russell (Judge, Trinidad), 222 + + Rust (Mayor, Port of Spain), 222 + + Ryrie (Major-General), 130 + + + St. George's, 226 + + St. Joseph, 222 + + St. Hilda, 102 + + St. Lucia, 228 + + Sale of West Indies, 14 + + Saluting the Quarterdeck, 16 + + Samoa, 212 + + San Diego, 22 + + Scholefield (Professor Guy), 62 + + Scott (Mayor, Suva), 42 + + Scott (Sir Bickham), 46 + + Seddon (late Prime Minister, N.Z.), 79 + + Seddon (Mr. Thomas), 79 + + Shapcott (Organizer, W. Australia), 209 + + Simonin (Monsignor), 16 + + Sleeman (Lt.-Colonel), 61, 98 + + Smith (Sir Alfred), 222 + + South Australia, 163 + + Southern California, 22 + + South Island, 73 + + Spencer Gulf, 163 + + Stephens (Governor, California), 23 + + Storey (Premier, N.S.W.), 123, 124, 125 + + Stratford, 64 + + Steer (Organizer, Queensland), 209 + + Strong (Colonel), 127 + + Subiaco, 146 + + Suva, 211 + + Swan River, 141, 145 + + Sydney, 119, 176 + + _Sydney_ (H.M.A.S.), 142 + + + Tahua Ceremony, 43 + + Taranaki, 63 + + Tarawera, 55 + + Tate (Colonel R. W.), 212 + + Taylor (Captain, R.N.), 38 + + Tekuiti, 63 + + Temuka, 95 + + Terowie, 163 + + Thacker (Mayor, Christchurch), 81 + + Thakombau (King), 42 + + Theodore (Premier, Queensland), 178 + + Thomas (Sir Godfrey), 37 + + Thomas (Mr. Joyce), 227 + + Tiaro, 189 + + Timaru, 95 + + Toowoomba, 191 + + Toronto, 136 + + Trinidad, 221 + + Tuamarina, 73 + + Tuimale Fana, 213 + + Tudor (Leader Opposition, Victoria), 104, 113 + + Tunbridge, 174 + + Turakina River, 65 + + + Victoria, 100 + + Visiting the Ship, 16 + + Vowles (Leader Opposition, Queensland), 185 + + + Waikiki Beach, 30, 215 + + Waimarino Forest, 63 + + Waipukurau, 68 + + Wairarapa, 69 + + Waitaki River, 95 + + Walcott (Mr. H. B.), 221 + + Wallangarra, 178, 192 + + Walsh Island, 136 + + Walter (Mr. Robert), 230 + + Walters (Captain, R.N.), 118 + + Wangamoa, 75 + + Wanganui, 64 + + Ward (Sir Joseph), 87 + + Ward-room Mess, 6 + + Warwick, 181 + + Watt (Mayor, Hamilton), 53 + + Weigall (Sir Archibald), 163, 164 + + Wellington, 69, 206 + + Werribee Plain, 105 + + Western Australia, 140 + + West Maitland, 177 + + Westport, 79 + + Wheatley (Dr.), 118 + + White (Major-Gen. Sir Brudenell), 112, 209 + + Whitehead (Organizer, Victoria), 209 + + + Yearwood (Mr. Graham), 11 + + + + +_Printed in Great Britain by_ Butler & Tanner, _Frome and London_ + +A SELECTION FROM + +MESSRS. METHUEN'S + +PUBLICATIONS + + +This Catalogue contains only a selection of the more important books +published by Messrs. Methuen. A complete catalogue of their publications +may be obtained on application. + + =Bain (F. W.)=-- + + A DIGIT OF THE MOON: a Hindoo Love Story. THE DESCENT OF THE SUN: A + Cycle of Birth. A HEIFER OF THE DAWN. IN THE GREAT GOD'S HAIR. A + DRAUGHT OF THE BLUE. AN ESSENCE OF THE DUSK. AN INCARNATION OF THE + SNOW. A MINE OF FAULTS. THE ASHES OF A GOD. BUBBLES OF THE FOAM. A + SYRUP OF THE BEES. THE LIVERY OF EVE. THE SUBSTANCE OF A DREAM. + _All Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. AN ECHO OF THE SPHERES. _Wide Demy_. + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Balfour (Graham).= THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. _Fifteenth + Edition. In one Volume. Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Belloc (H.)=-- + + PARIS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HILLS AND THE SEA, 6_s_. _net_. ON + NOTHING AND KINDRED SUBJECTS, 6_s_. _net_. ON EVERYTHING, 6_s_. + _net_. ON SOMETHING, 6_s_. _net_. FIRST AND LAST, 6_s_. _net_. THIS + AND THAT AND THE OTHER, 6_s_. _net_. MARIE ANTOINETTE, 18_s_. + _net_. THE PYRENEES, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Bloemfontein (Bishop of).= ARA COELI: AN ESSAY IN MYSTICAL + THEOLOGY. _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + FAITH AND EXPERIENCE. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + THE CULT OF THE PASSING MOMENT. _Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + THE ENGLISH CHURCH AND REUNION. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + SCALA MUNDI. _Cr. 8vo_. 4_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Chesterton (G. K.)=-- + + THE BALLAD OF THE WHITE HORSE. ALL THINGS CONSIDERED. TREMENDOUS + TRIFLES. ALARMS AND DISCURSIONS. A MISCELLANY OF MEN. _All Fcap. + 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. WINE, WATER, AND SONG. _Fcap. 8vo_. 1_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. THE USES OF DIVERSITY. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Clutton-Brock (A.).= WHAT IS THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN? _Fourth + Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + ESSAYS ON ART. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + ESSAYS ON BOOKS. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + MORE ESSAYS ON BOOKS. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Cole (G. D. H.).= SOCIAL THEORY. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Conrad (Joseph).= THE MIRROR OF THE SEA: Memories and Impressions. + _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Einstein (A.).= RELATIVITY: THE SPECIAL AND THE GENERAL THEORY. + Translated by ROBERT W. LAWSON. _Third Edition Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + =Eliot (T. S.).= THE SACRED WOOD: ESSAYS ON POETRY. _Fcap. 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net_. + + =Fyleman (Rose.).= FAIRIES AND CHIMNEYS. _Fcap. 8vo. Eighth + Edition_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE FAIRY GREEN. _Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Gibbins (H. de B.).= INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL OUTLINES. + With Maps and Plans. _Tenth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 5 Maps and a Plan. + _Twenty-seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + + =Gibbon (Edward).= THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. + Edited, with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by J. B. BURY. + Illustrated. _Seven Volumes_. _Demy 8vo_. Illustrated. _Each_ + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also in Seven Volumes. Cr. 8vo. Each_ 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Glover (T. R.).= THE CONFLICT OF RELIGIONS IN THE EARLY ROMAN + EMPIRE. _Ninth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + POETS AND PURITANS. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + FROM PERICLES TO PHILIP. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + VIRGIL. _Fourth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE CHRISTIAN TRADITION AND ITS VERIFICATION. (The Angus Lecture + for 1912.) _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Grahame (Kenneth).= THE WIND IN THE WILLOWS. _Eleventh Edition. + Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hall (H. R.).= THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE NEAR EAST FROM THE + EARLIEST TIMES TO THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS. Illustrated. _Fifth + Edition. Demy 8vo_. 21_s_. _net_. + + =Hawthorne (Nathaniel).= THE SCARLET LETTER. With 31 Illustrations + in Colour by HUGH THOMSON. WIDE ROYAL 8VO. 31_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Holdsworth (W. S.).= A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _Vols. I., II., + III. Each Second Edition. Demy 8vo_. _Each_ 15_s_. _net_. + + =Inge (W. R.).= CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. (The Bampton Lectures of + 1899.) _Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Jenks (E.).= AN OUTLINE OF ENGLISH LOCAL GOVERNMENT. _Fourth + Edition_. Revised by R. C. K. ENSOR. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW: FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE END + OF THE YEAR 1911. _Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Julian (Lady) of Norwich.= REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by + GRACE WARRACK. _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Keats (John).= POEMS. Edited, with Introduction and Notes, by E. + DE SÉLINCOURT. With a Frontispiece in Photogravure. _Fourth + Edition. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Kidd (Benjamin).= THE SCIENCE OF POWER. _Ninth Edition. Crown + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SOCIAL EVOLUTION. _Demy 8vo_. 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Kipling (Rudyard).= BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. _208th Thousand. Cr. + 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. _Cloth_, 6_s_. + _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE SEVEN SEAS. _157th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE FIVE NATIONS. _126th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. _94th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE YEARS BETWEEN. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also on + thin paper. Fcap. 8vo. Blue cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _Limp lambskin_, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + HYMN BEFORE ACTION. Illuminated. _Fcap. 4to_. 1_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + RECESSIONAL. Illuminated. _Fcap. 4to_. 1_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TWENTY POEMS FROM RUDYARD KIPLING. _360th Thousand. Fcap. 8vo_. + 1_s_. _net_. + + =Lamb (Charles and Mary).= THE COMPLETE WORKS. Edited by E. V. + LUCAS. _A New and Revised Edition in Six Volumes_. _With + Frontispieces. Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ 6_s_. _net_. + + The volumes are:-- + + I. MISCELLANEOUS PROSE. II. ELIA AND THE LAST ESSAY OF ELIA. III. + BOOKS FOR CHILDREN. IV. PLAYS AND POEMS V. and VI. LETTERS. + + THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With an Introduction by E. V. LUCAS, and 28 + Illustrations by A. GARTH JONES. _Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Lankester (Sir Ray).= SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. + _Thirteenth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + DIVERSIONS OF A NATURALIST. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo_. + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SECRETS OF EARTH AND SEA. _Cr. 8vo_. 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Lodge (Sir Oliver).= MAN AND THE UNIVERSE: A STUDY OF THE + INFLUENCE OF THE ADVANCE IN SCIENTIFIC KNOWLEDGE UPON OUR + UNDERSTANDING OF CHRISTIANITY. _Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo_. 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + THE SURVIVAL OF MAN: A STUDY IN UNRECOGNISED HUMAN FACULTY. + _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MODERN PROBLEMS. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + RAYMOND; OR LIFE AND DEATH. Illustrated. _Twelfth Edition. Demy + 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Lucas (E. V.).=-- + + THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB, _2 vols_., 21_s_. _net_. A WANDERER IN + HOLLAND, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN LONDON, 10_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. LONDON REVISITED, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN PARIS, + 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_ and 6_s_. _net_. A WANDERER IN FLORENCE, 10_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN VENICE, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE OPEN + ROAD: A Little Book for Wayfarers, 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_ and 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE FRIENDLY TOWN: A Little Book for the Urbane, 6_s_. + _net_. FIRESIDE AND SUNSHINE, 6_s_. _net_. CHARACTER AND COMEDY, + 6_s_. _net_. THE GENTLEST ART: A Choice of Letters by Entertaining + Hands, 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE SECOND POST, 6_s_. _net_. HER + INFINITE VARIETY: A Feminine Portrait Gallery, 6_s_. _net_. GOOD + COMPANY: A Rally of Men, 6_s_. _net_. ONE DAY AND ANOTHER, 6_s_. + _net_. OLD LAMPS FOR NEW, 6_s_. _net_. LOITERER'S HARVEST, 6_s_. + _net_. CLOUD AND SILVER, 6_s_. _net_. A BOSWELL OF BAGHDAD, AND + OTHER ESSAYS, 6_s_. _net_. 'TWIXT EAGLE AND DOVE, 6_s_. _net_. THE + PHANTOM JOURNAL, AND OTHER ESSAYS AND DIVERSIONS, 6_s_. _net_. + SPECIALLY SELECTED: A Choice of Essays, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + BRITISH SCHOOL: An Anecdotal Guide to the British Painters and + Paintings in the National Gallery, 6_s_. _net_. TRAVEL NOTES. + + =McDougall (William).= AN INTRODUCTION TO SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGY. + _Sixteenth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 8_s_. _net_. + + BODY AND MIND: A HISTORY AND A DEFENCE OF ANIMISM. _Fifth Edition_. + _Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Maeterlinck (Maurice)=-- + + THE BLUE BIRD: A Fairy Play in Six Acts, 6_s_. _net_. MARY + MAGDALENE; A Play in Three Acts, 5_s_. _net_. DEATH, 3_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. OUR ETERNITY, 6_s_. _net_. THE UNKNOWN GUEST, 6_s_. _net_. + POEMS, 5_s_. _net_. THE WRACK OF THE STORM, 6_s_. _net_. THE + MIRACLE OF ST. ANTHONY: A Play in One Act, 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + BURGOMASTER OF STILEMONDE: A Play in Three Acts, 5_s_. _net_. THE + BETROTHAL; or, The Blue Bird Chooses, 6_s_. _net_. MOUNTAIN PATHS, + 6_s_. _net_. THE STORY OF TYLTYL, 21_s_. _net_. + + =Milne (A. A.).= THE DAY'S PLAY. THE HOLIDAY ROUND. ONCE A WEEK. + _All Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. _net_. NOT THAT IT MATTERS. _Fcap 8vo_. 6_s_. + _net_. IF I MAY. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Oxenham (John)=-- + + BEES IN AMBER; A Little Book of Thoughtful Verse. ALL'S WELL: A + Collection of War Poems. THE KING'S HIGH WAY. THE VISION SPLENDID. + THE FIERY CROSS. HIGH ALTARS: The Record of a Visit to the + Battlefields of France and Flanders. HEARTS COURAGEOUS. ALL CLEAR! + WINDS OF THE DAWN. _All Small Pott 8vo_. _Paper_, 1_s_. 3_d_. + _net_; _cloth boards_, 2_s_. _net_. GENTLEMEN--THE KING, 2_s_. + _net_. + + =Petrie (W. M. Flinders).= A HISTORY OF EGYPT. Illustrated. _Six + Volumes_. _Cr. 8vo_. _Each_ 9_s_. _net_. + + VOL. I. FROM THE IST TO THE XVITH DYNASTY. _Ninth Edition_. (10_s_. + 6_d_. _net_.) + + VOL. II. THE XVIITH AND XVIIITH DYNASTIES. _Sixth Edition_. + + VOL. III. XIXTH TO XXXTH DYNASTIES. _Second Edition_. + + VOL. IV. EGYPT UNDER THE PTOLEMAIC DYNASTY. J. P. MAHAFFY. _Second + Edition_. + + VOL. V. EGYPT UNDER ROMAN RULE. J. G. MILNE. _Second Edition_. + + VOL. VI. EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. STANLEY LANE POOLE. _Second + Edition_. + + SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA LETTERS. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. First Series, IVth to + XIIth Dynasty. Illustrated. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. Second Series, XVIIITH + to XIXTH Dynasty. Illustrated. _Second Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + =Pollard (A. F.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF THE GREAT WAR. With 19 Maps. + _Second Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Price (L. L.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF POLITICAL ECONOMY IN ENGLAND + FROM ADAM SMITH TO ARNOLD TOYNBEE. _Tenth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. + 5_s_. _net_. + + =Reid (G. Archdall).= THE LAWS OF HEREDITY. _Second Edition_. _Demy + 8vo_. £1. 1_s_. _net_. + + =Robertson (C. Grant).= SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND DOCUMENTS, + 1660-1832. _Third Edition_. _Demy 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Selons (Edmund).= TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS. Illustrated. _Nineteenth + Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TOMMY SMITH'S OTHER ANIMALS. Illustrated. _Eleventh Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TOMMY SMITH AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. + 2_s_. 9_d_. + + TOMMY SMITH AGAIN AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. _Second Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 2_s_. 9_d_. + + JACK'S INSECTS. _Popular Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. + + JACK'S OTHER INSECTS. _Cr. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. + + =Shelley (Percy Bysshe).= POEMS. With an Introduction by A. + CLUTTON-BROCK and Notes by C. D. LOCOCK. _Two Volumes_. _Demy 8vo_. + £1 1_s_. _net_. + + =Smith (Adam).= THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited by EDWIN CANNAN. _Two + Volumes. Second Edition_. _Demy 8vo_. £1 10_s_. _net_. + + =Stevenson (R. L.).= THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. Edited + by Sir SIDNEY COLVIN. _A New Rearranged Edition in four volumes. + Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ 6_s_. _net_. + + =Surtees (R. S.).= HANDLEY CROSS. Illustrated. _Ninth Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. Illustrated. _Fifth Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + ASK MAMMA: OR, THE RICHEST COMMONER IN ENGLAND. Illustrated. + _Second Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + JORROCKS'S JAUNTS AND JOLLITIES. Illustrated. _Seventh Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + MR. FACEY ROMFORD'S HOUNDS. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + HAWBUCK GRANGE; OR, THE SPORTING ADVENTURES OF THOMAS SCOTT, ESQ. + Illustrated. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + PLAIN OR RINGLETS? Illustrated. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + HILLINGDON HALL. With 12 Coloured Plates by WILDRAKE, HEATH, and + JELLICOE. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Tilden (W. T.).= THE ART OF LAWN TENNIS. Illustrated. _Cr. 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net_. + + =Tileston (Mary W.).= DAILY STRENGTH FOR DAILY NEEDS. + _Twenty-seventh Edition_. _Medium 16mo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Underhill (Evelyn).= MYSTICISM. A Study in the Nature and + Development of Man's Spiritual Consciousness. _Eighth Edition_. + _Demy 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Vardon (Harry).= HOW TO PLAY GOLF. Illustrated. _Thirteenth + Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Waterhouse (Elizabeth).= A LITTLE BOOK OF LIFE AND DEATH. + _Twentieth Edition_. _Small Pott 8vo. Cloth_, 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Wells (J.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. _Seventeenth Edition_. With + 3 Maps. _Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. + + =Wilde (Oscar).= THE WORKS OF OSCAR WILDE. _Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + I. LORD ARTHUR SAVILE'S CRIME AND THE PORTRAIT OF MR. W. H. II. THE + DUCHESS OF PADUA. III. POEMS. IV. LADY WINDERMERE'S FAN. V. A WOMAN + OF NO IMPORTANCE. VI. AN IDEAL HUSBAND. VII. THE IMPORTANCE OF + BEING EARNEST. VIII. A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES. IX. INTENTIONS. X. DE + PROFUNDIS AND PRISON LETTERS. XI. ESSAYS. XII. SALOMÉ, A FLORENTINE + TRAGEDY, and LA SAINTE COURTISANE. XIII. A CRITIC IN PALL MALL. + XIV. SELECTED PROSE OF OSCAR WILDE. XV. ART AND DECORATION. + + A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES. Illustrated. _Cr. 4to_. 21_s_. _net_. + + =Yeats (W. B.).= A BOOK OF IRISH VERSE. _Fourth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. _net_. + + +Part II.--A Selection of Series + + =Ancient Cities= + + General Editor, SIR B. C. A. WINDLE + + _Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net each volume_ + + With Illustrations by E. H. NEW, and other Artists + + BRISTOL. CANTERBURY. CHESTER. DUBLIN. + EDINBURGH. LINCOLN. SHREWSBURY WELLS and GLASTONBURY. + + + =The Antiquary's Books= + + General Editor, J. CHARLES COX + + _Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net each volume_ + + With Numerous Illustrations + + ANCIENT PAINTED GLASS IN ENGLAND. ARCHÆOLOGY AND FALSE ANTIQUITIES. + THE BELLS OF ENGLAND. THE BRASSES OF ENGLAND. THE CASTLES AND + WALLED TOWNS OF ENGLAND. CELTIC ART IN PAGAN AND CHRISTIAN TIMES. + CHURCH-WARDENS' ACCOUNTS. THE DOMESDAY INQUEST. ENGLISH CHURCH + FURNITURE. ENGLISH COSTUME. ENGLISH MONASTIC LIFE. ENGLISH SEALS. + FOLK-LORE AS AN HISTORICAL SCIENCE. THE GILDS AND COMPANIES OF + LONDON. THE HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND. THE MANOR AND + MANORIAL RECORDS. THE MEDIÆVAL HOSPITALS OF ENGLAND. OLD ENGLISH + INSTRUMENTS OF MUSIC. OLD ENGLISH LIBRARIES. OLD SERVICE BOOKS OF + THE ENGLISH CHURCH. PARISH LIFE IN MEDIÆVAL ENGLAND. THE PARISH + REGISTERS OF ENGLAND. REMAINS OF THE PREHISTORIC AGE IN ENGLAND. + THE ROMAN ERA IN BRITAIN. ROMANO-BRITISH BUILDINGS AND EARTH-WORKS. + THE ROYAL FORESTS OF ENGLAND. THE SCHOOLS OF MEDIÆVAL ENGLAND. + SHRINES OF BRITISH SAINTS. + + =The Arden Shakespeare= General Editor, R. H. CASE _Demy 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net each volume_ + +An edition of Shakespeare in Single Plays; each edited with a full +Introduction, Textual Notes, and a Commentary at the foot of the page. + + =Classics of Art= + + Edited by DR. J. H. W. LAING + + _With numerous Illustrations_. _Wide Royal 8vo_ + + THE ART OF THE GREEKS, 15_s_. _net_. THE ART OF THE ROMANS, 16_s_. + _net_. CHARDIN, 15_s_. _net_. DONATELLO, 16_s_. _net_. GEORGE + ROMNEY, 15_s_. _net_. GHIRLANDAIO, 15_s_. _net_. LAWRENCE, 25_s_. + _net_. MICHELANGELO, 15_s_. _net_. RAPHAEL, 15_s_. _net_. + REMBRANDT'S ETCHINGS, Two Vols., 25_s_. _net_. TINTORETTO, 16_s_. + _net_. TITIAN, 16_s_. _net_. TURNER'S SKETCHES AND DRAWINGS, 15_s_. + _net_. VELAZQUEZ, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =The 'Complete' Series= + + _Fully Illustrated_. _Demy 8vo_ + + THE COMPLETE AMATEUR BOXER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + ASSOCIATION FOOTBALLER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE ATHLETIC + TRAINER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE BILLIARD PLAYER, 12_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE COOK, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + CRICKETER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE FOXHUNTER, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE GOLFER, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + HOCKEY-PLAYER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE HORSEMAN, 12_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE JUJITSUAN. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. THE + COMPLETE LAWN TENNIS PLAYER, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + MOTORIST, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE MOUNTAINEER, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE OARSMAN, 15_s_. _net_. The Complete + Photographer, 15_s_. _net_. THE COMPLETE RUGBY FOOTBALLER, ON THE + NEW ZEALAND SYSTEM, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE SHOT, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE SWIMMER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + YACHTSMAN, 16_s_. _net_. + + + =The Connoisseur's Library= + + _With numerous Illustrations_. _Wide Royal 8vo_. 25_s_. _net each + volume_ + + ENGLISH COLOURED BOOKS. ENGLISH FURNITURE. ETCHINGS. EUROPEAN + ENAMELS. FINE BOOKS. GLASS. GOLDSMITHS' AND SILVERSMITHS' WORK. + ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS. IVORIES. JEWELLERY. MEZZOTINTS. + MINIATURES. PORCELAIN. SEALS. WOOD SCULPTURE. + + + =Handbooks of Theology= + + _Demy 8vo_ + + THE DOCTRINE OF THE INCARNATION, 15_s_. _net_. A HISTORY OF EARLY + CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE, 16_s_. _net_. INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF + RELIGION, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF THE + CREEDS, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION IN ENGLAND + AND AMERICA, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE XXXIX ARTICLES OF THE CHURCH + OF ENGLAND, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =Health Series= + + _Fcap_ 8_vo_. 2_s_. 6_d. net_ + + THE BABY. THE CARE OF THE BODY. THE CARE OF THE TEETH. THE EYES OF + OUR CHILDREN. HEALTH FOR THE MIDDLE-AGED. THE HEALTH OF A WOMAN. + THE HEALTH OF THE SKIN. HOW TO LIVE LONG. THE PREVENTION OF THE + COMMON COLD. STAYING THE PLAGUE. THROAT AND EAR TROUBLES. + TUBERCULOSIS. THE HEALTH OF THE CHILD, 2_s_. _net_. + + + =Leaders of Religion= + + Edited by H. C. BEECHING. _With Portraits_ + + _Crown 8vo_. 3_s_. _net each volume_ + + + =The Library of Devotion= + +Handy Editions of the great Devotional Books, well edited. With +Introductions and (where necessary) Notes + + _Small Pott 8vo, cloth_, 3_s_. _net and_ 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_ + + + =Little Books on Art= + + _With many Illustrations. Demy 16mo_. 5_s_. _net each volume_ + +Each volume consists of about 200 pages, and contains from 30 to 40 +Illustrations, including a Frontispiece in Photogravure + + ALBRECHT DÜRER. THE ARTS OF JAPAN. BOOKPLATES. BOTTICELLI. + BURNE-JONES. CELLINI. CHRISTIAN SYMBOLISM. CHRIST IN ART. CLAUDE. + CONSTABLE. COROT. EARLY ENGLISH WATER-COLOUR. ENAMELS. FREDERIC + LEIGHTON. GEORGE ROMNEY. GREEK ART. GREUZE AND BOUCHER. HOLBEIN. + ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS. JEWELLERY. JOHN HOPPNER. SIR JOSHUA + REYNOLDS. MILLET. MINIATURES. OUR LADY IN ART. RAPHAEL. RODIN. + TURNER. VANDYCK. VELAZQUEZ. WATTS. + + + =The Little Guides= + +With many Illustrations by E. H. NEW and other artists, and from +photographs + + _Small Pott 8vo_. 4_s_. _net_, 5_s_. _net, and_ 6_s_. _net_ + +Guides to the English and Welsh Counties, and some well-known districts + +The main features of these Guides are (1) a handy and charming form; (2) +illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists; (3) good plans +and maps; (4) an adequate but compact presentation of everything that is +interesting in the natural features, history, archæology, and +architecture of the town or district treated. + + + =The Little Quarto Shakespeare= + + Edited by W. J. CRAIG. With Introductions and Notes + + _Pott 16mo. 40 Volumes_. _Leather, price_ 1_s_. 9_d_. _net each + volume_ _Cloth_, 1_s_. 6_d_. + + + =Plays= + + _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_ + + MILESTONES. Arnold Bennett and Edward Knoblock. _Ninth Edition_. + + IDEAL HUSBAND, AN. Oscar Wilde. _Acting Edition_. + + KISMET. Edward Knoblock. _Fourth Edition_. + + TYPHOON. A Play in Four Acts. Melchior Lengyel. English Version by + Laurence Irving. _Second Edition_. + + WARE CASE, THE. George Pleydell. + + GENERAL POST. J. E. Harold Terry. _Second Edition_. + + + =Sports Series= + + _Illustrated. Fcap. 8vo_ + + ALL ABOUT FLYING, 3_s_. _net_. GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S, 2_s_. _net_. + THE GOLFING SWING. 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOW TO SWIM, 2_s_. _net_. + LAWN TENNIS, 3_s_. _net_. SKATING, 3_s_. _net_. CROSS-COUNTRY + SKI-ING, 5_s_. _net_. WRESTLING, 2_s_. _net_. QUICK CUTS TO GOOD + GOLF, 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOCKEY, 4_s_. _net_. + + + =The Westminster Commentaries= + + General Editor, WALTER LOCK + + _Demy 8vo_ + + THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES, 16_s_. _net_. AMOS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. I. + CORINTHIANS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. EXODUS, 15_s_. _net_. EZEKIEL, + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. GENESIS, 16_s_. _net_. HEBREWS, 8_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. ISAIAH, 16_s_. _net_. JEREMIAH, 16_s_. _net_. JOB, 8_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE PASTORAL EPISTLES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + PHILIPPIANS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. ST. JAMES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. ST. + MATTHEW, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =Methuen's Two-Shilling Library= + + Cheap Editions of many Popular Books + + _Fcap. 8vo_ + + +PART III.--A SELECTION OF WORKS OF FICTION + + =Bennett (Arnold)=-- + + CLAYHANGER, 8_s_. _net_. HILDA LESSWAYS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THESE + TWAIN. THE CARD. THE REGENT: A Five Towns Story of Adventure in + London. THE PRICE OF LOVE. BURIED ALIVE. A MAN FROM THE NORTH. THE + MATADOR OF THE FIVE TOWNS. WHOM GOD HATH JOINED. A GREAT MAN: A + Frolic. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Birmingham (George A.)=-- + + SPANISH GOLD. THE SEARCH PARTY. LALAGE'S LOVERS. THE BAD TIMES. UP, + THE REBELS. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. INISHEENY, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Burroughs (Edgar Rice)=-- + + TARZAN OF THE APES, 6_s_. _net_. THE RETURN OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. + THE BEASTS OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. THE SON OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. + JUNGLE TALES OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. TARZAN AND THE JEWELS OF OPAR, + 6_s_. _net_. TARZAN THE UNTAMED, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A PRINCESS OF + MARS, 6_s_. _net_. THE GODS OF MARS, 6_s_. _net_. THE WARLORD OF + MARS, 6_s_. _net_. + + =Conrad (Joseph).= A SET OF SIX, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VICTORY: An + Island Tale. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. THE SECRET AGENT: A Simple + Tale. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. UNDER WESTERN EYES. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. + _net_. CHANCE. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. + + =Corelli (Marie)=-- + + A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VENDETTA: or, The Story + of One Forgotten, 8_s_. _net_. THELMA: A Norwegian Princess, 8_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. ARDATH: The Story of a Dead Self, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + THE SOUL OF LILITH, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. WORMWOOD: A Drama of Paris, + 8_s_. _net_. BARABBAS: A Dream of the World's Tragedy, 8_s_. _net_. + THE SORROWS OF SATAN, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE MASTER-CHRISTIAN, + 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. TEMPORAL POWER: A Study in Supremacy, 6_s_. + _net_. GOD'S GOOD MAN: A Simple Love Story, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOLY + ORDERS: The Tragedy of a Quiet Life, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE MIGHTY + ATOM, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. BOY: A Sketch, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. CAMEOS, + 6_s_. _net_. THE LIFE EVERLASTING, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE LOVE OF + LONG AGO, AND OTHER STORIES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Doyle (Sir A. Conan).= ROUND THE RED LAMP. _Twelfth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hichens (Robert)=-- + + TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. FELIX: Three Years in a + Life, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + BYEWAYS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE GARDEN OF ALLAH, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + THE CALL OF THE BLOOD, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. BARBARY SHEEP, 6_s_. + _net_. THE DWELLERS ON THE THRESHOLD, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WAY OF + AMBITION, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. IN THE WILDERNESS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hope (Anthony)=-- + + A CHANGE OF AIR. A MAN OF MARK. THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. + SIMON DALE. THE KING'S MIRROR. QUISANTÉ. THE DOLLY DIALOGUES. TALES + OF TWO PEOPLE. A SERVANT OF THE PUBLIC. MRS. MAXON PROTESTS. A + YOUNG MAN'S YEAR. BEAUMAROY HOME FROM THE WARS. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Jacobs (W. W.)=-- + + MANY CARGOES, 5_s_. _net_. SEA URCHINS, 5_s_. _net_ and 3_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. A MASTER OF CRAFT, 5_s_. _net_. LIGHT FREIGHTS, 5_s_. _net_. + THE SKIPPER'S WOOING, 5_s_. _net_. AT SUNWICH PORT, 5_s_. _net_. + DIALSTONE LANE, 5_s_. _net_. ODD CRAFT, 5_s_. _net_. THE LADY OF + THE BARGE, 5_s_. _net_. SALTHAVEN, 5_s_. _net_. SAILORS' KNOTS, + 5_s_. _net_. SHORT CRUISES, 6_s_. _net_. + + =London (Jack).= WHITE FANG. _Ninth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Lucas (E. V.)=-- + + LISTENER'S LURE: An Oblique Narration, 6_s_. _net_. OVER + BEMERTON'S: An Easy-going Chronicle, 6_s_. _net_. MR. INGLESIDE, + 6_s_. _net_. LONDON LAVENDER, 6_s_. _net_. LANDMARKS, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. THE VERMILION BOX, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VERENA IN THE MIDST, + 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =McKenna (Stephen)=-- + + SONIA: Between Two Worlds, 8_s_. _net_. NINETY-SIX HOURS' LEAVE, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE SIXTH SENSE, 6_s_. _net_. MIDAS & SON, 8_s_. + _net_. + + =Malet (Lucas)=-- + + THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY: A Romance. THE CARISSIMA. THE + GATELESS BARRIER. DEADHAM HARD. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WAGES + OF SIN. 8_s_. _net_. + + =Mason (A. E. W.).= CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. _Ninth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Maxwell (W. B.)=-- + + VIVIEN. THE GUARDED FLAME. ODD LENGTHS. HILL RISE. THE REST CURE. + _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Oxenham (John)=-- + + A WEAVER OF WEBS. PROFIT AND LOSS. THE SONG OF HYACINTH, AND OTHER + STORIES. LAURISTONS. THE COIL OF CARNE. THE QUEST OF THE GOLDEN + ROSE. MARY ALL-ALONE. BROKEN SHACKLES. "1914." _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Parker (Gilbert)=-- + + PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. MRS. FALCHION. THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. + WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. AN + ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.' + THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: A Romance of Two + Kingdoms. THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. NORTHERN LIGHTS. _All_ 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Phillpotts (Eden)=-- + + CHILDREN OF THE MIST. SONS OF THE MORNING. THE RIVER. THE AMERICAN + PRISONER. DEMETER'S DAUGHTER. THE HUMAN BOY AND THE WAR. _All_ + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Ridge (W. Pett)=-- + + A SON OF THE STATE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE REMINGTON SENTENCE, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. MADAME PRINCE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. TOP SPEED, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. SPECIAL PERFORMANCES, 6_s_. _net_. THE BUSTLING + HOURS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Rohmer (Sax)=-- + + THE DEVIL DOCTOR. THE SI-FAN MYSTERIES. TALES OF SECRET EGYPT. THE + ORCHARD OF TEARS. THE GOLDEN SCORPION. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Swinnerton (F.).= SHOPS AND HOUSES. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SEPTEMBER. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE HAPPY FAMILY. _Second Edition_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + ON THE STAIRCASE. _Third Edition_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Wells (H. G.).= BEALBY. _Fourth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Williamson (C. N.= and =A. M.)=-- + + THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: The Strange Adventures of a Motor Car. + LADY BETTY ACROSS THE WATER. SCARLET RUNNER. LORD LOVELAND + DISCOVERS AMERICA. THE GUESTS OF HERCULES. IT HAPPENED IN EGYPT. A + SOLDIER OF THE LEGION. THE SHOP GIRL. THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTRESS. + SECRET HISTORY. THE LOVE PIRATE. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. CRUCIFIX + CORNER. 6_s_. _net_. + + + =Methuen's Two-Shilling Novels= + + Cheap Editions of many of the most Popular Novels of the day + + _Write for Complete List_ + + _Fcap. 8vo_. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + Transcriber's notes: + + Fixed up various commas and full-stops. + Hyphens are determined by the majority with or without-- + + Taken hyphen out in 'countryside'. + Put hyphen in 'blue-jackets'. + Taken hyphen out in 'foreshore'. + Taken hyphen out in 'flagship'. + Put hyphen in 'out-turn'. + Taken hyphen out in 'pressmen'. + Put hyphen in 'bare-headed'. + Put hyphen in 'foot-plate'. + Put hyphen in 'hard-wood'. + Put hyphen in 'home-like'. + Taken hyphen out in 'inshore'. + Taken hyphen out in 'pineapples'. + Put hyphen in 'Red-legs'. + Taken hyphen out in 'roadside'. + P.43, 44, 214 & index, 'Khava' should be 'Kava', changed. + P.43. 'Yagona' should be 'Yaqona', changed. + P.50. 'bougainvillias' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed. + P.55. 'Hinomaa' should be 'Hinemoa', changed in text and index. + P.56. 't seems' should be 'it', changed. + P.75. 'Wanganoa' should be 'Wangamoa'. changed. + P.87. 'Reformerst' should be 'Reformers', changed. + P.135 & index. 'Paramatta' should be 'Parramatta', changed. + P.198. 'billee' tea should be 'billy' tea, changed. + P.202. 'gulahs' should be 'galahs', but also known as 'gallahs' changed. + P.206 & index. 'Canoblas' should be 'Canobolas', and the index + should be 'p.206.' changed. + P.206. 'Dubho' should be 'Dubbo', changed. + P.224. Taken out dash from 'sugar-'. + P.237 & P.239. 'bougainvilliers' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed. + P.244. 'Graymouth' should be 'Greymouth', changed. + P.250, index. 'Dubho' in index should be 'Dubbo', changed. + + In TEXT version: + + Italics is displayed as _Second Editions_. + Bold is displayed as =Williamson=. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + +***** This file should be named 38691-8.txt or 38691-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/6/9/38691/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/38691-8.zip b/38691-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9689ad2 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-8.zip diff --git a/38691-h.zip b/38691-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6826f44 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h.zip diff --git a/38691-h/38691-h.htm b/38691-h/38691-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d923a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/38691-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,8958 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + Down Under With The Prince, by Everard Cotes. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +p.dropcap:first-letter { + float : left; + padding-right : 3px; + font-size : 300%; + line-height : 83%; + width : auto; + font-weight : bold; +} + +h1 {font-size: 250%;} + +h2 {font-size: 200%;} + +h3 {font-size: 150%;} + +h4 {font-size: 150%;} + +h5 {font-size: 125%; } + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb {width: 45%;} +hr.chap {width: 65%} +hr.full {width: 95%;} +hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 10%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + +.bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + +.bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + +.br {border-right: solid 2px;} + +.bbox {border: solid 2px;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + +.poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:smaller; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; } + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Down Under With the Prince + +Author: Everard Cotes + +Release Date: January 27, 2012 [EBook #38691] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="365" height="600" alt="Cover" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />Cover</span> +</div> + +<p class="center">Warning: This book may contain the names and images of deceased +Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander people.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<h1>DOWN UNDER WITH<br /> +THE PRINCE</h1> + +<p class="center"><br /><b>BY</b></p> + +<h2>EVERARD COTES</h2> + +<p class="center"><br /><b>WITH TWENTY-THREE ILLUSTRATIONS</b><br /> +<br /> +<b>METHUEN & CO. LTD.<br /> +36 ESSEX STREET, W.C.<br /> +LONDON</b><br /> +</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<p class="center"><br /><b><i>First Published in 1921</i></b></p> + +<p class="center"><br /><b>BY THE SAME AUTHOR</b><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap"><b>Signs and Portents in the Far East</b></span><br /></p> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<img src="images/frontisea.png" width="365" height="520" alt="H.R.H." title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />H.R.H. ON DECK: AN INTERRUPTION</span> +</div> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<blockquote><p class="dropcap">This book attempts to be a gangway to the <i>Renown</i> for the reader who +would travel by battle-cruiser, by train, on horseback, by motor, and on +foot, the forty-five thousand miles of his Australasian tour with H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales. It is built by one who travelled, as a +correspondent, with him all the way.</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#I">I </a><span style="margin-left: 1.7em;"><span class="smcap">At Sea</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#II">II </a><span style="margin-left: 1.4em;"><span class="smcap">Barbados</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#III">III </a><span style="margin-left: 1.1em;"><span class="smcap">Panama</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IV">IV </a><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Southern California</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#V">V </a><span style="margin-left: 1.4em;"><span class="smcap">Honolulu</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#VI">VI </a><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Neptune Boards the <i>Renown</i></span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#VII">VII </a><span style="margin-left: .8em;"><span class="smcap">Fiji</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#VIII">VIII </a><span style="margin-left: .5em;"><span class="smcap">Auckland</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IX">IX </a><span style="margin-left: 1.1em;"><span class="smcap">North Island</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#X">X </a><span style="margin-left: 1.4em;"><span class="smcap">South Island</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XI">XI </a><span style="margin-left: 1.1em;"><span class="smcap">Enterprise in New Zealand</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XII">XII </a><span style="margin-left: .8em;"><span class="smcap">Victoria</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XIII">XIII </a><span style="margin-left: .5em;"><span class="smcap">New South Wales</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XIV">XIV </a><span style="margin-left: .5em;"><span class="smcap">Some Commonwealth Affairs</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XV">XV </a><span style="margin-left: .8em;"><span class="smcap">Western Australia</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XVI">XVI </a><span style="margin-left: .4em;"><span class="smcap">Wheat, Gold, and Logging</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XVII">XVII </a><span style="margin-left: .3em;"><span class="smcap">The Nullarbor Plain</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_158">158</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XVIII">XVIII </a><span style="margin-left: .2em;"><span class="smcap">South Australia</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XIX">XIX </a><span style="margin-left: .8em;"><span class="smcap">Tasmania</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XX">XX </a><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Queensland</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXI">XXI </a><span style="margin-left: .8em;"><span class="smcap">The Jackaroo and Others</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXII">XXII </a><span style="margin-left: .5em;"><span class="smcap">Amongst the Sheep</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXIII">XXIII </a><span style="margin-left: .3em;"><span class="smcap">Eastward Ho</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXIV">XXIV </a><span style="margin-left: .2em;"><span class="smcap">The West Indies</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_221">221</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXV">XXV </a><span style="margin-left: .4em;"><span class="smcap">The Bermudas</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_236">236</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#XXVI">XXVI </a><span style="margin-left: .2em;"><span class="smcap">The Significance of the Tour</span></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_242">242</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="r65" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">H.R.H. on Deck: An Interruption</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">FACING PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Panama Canal: A Sharp Corner</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Surf-boarding at Honolulu</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Excitement Grows in Auckland Harbour</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">New Zealand: The Prime Minister takes Charge</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Wellington: A Canoe in the Petone Pageant</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">"<span class="smcap">The Maori People will be True Till Death</span>"</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Westport Children: A Tumult of Flags and Flowers</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Dunedin's Welcome</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>From Photographs by Guy, Dunedin</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">With Australia's most Distinguished Citizen</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>From a Photograph by the Central News Agency, Ltd.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Jutland Day at Melbourne</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Government House Gardens, New South Wales</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Perth, from the King's Park</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Crossing the Nullarbor Plain</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_160">160</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Aboriginal Dance</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_160">160</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Leaving Port Adelaide</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Mount Wellington, Hobart</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Backblocks: An Unofficial Fixture</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">His Favourite Mount</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Emu on a Sheep-run</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Good-bye to Sydney Harbour</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_208">208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Samoa Makes Merry</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Trinidad: In the Dragon's Mouth</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The thanks of the writer are due to those who have contributed +photographs for the illustrations, and especially to Sir Godfrey Thomas, +Bart.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h2>DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE</h2> + +<h2><a name="I" id="I"></a>I</h2> + +<h2>AT SEA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">One March morning of last year, an ordinary train moved out of Waterloo +Station for Portsmouth, and among the ordinary people it carried were at +least two or three who were going further. They sat together and smoked, +and exchanged experiences and speculations. As the train slowed down at +Portsmouth Harbour they looked from the carriage windows and saw the +fighting tops of a big battle-cruiser lifted grey against the sky above +the houses of the foreshore, and one said to another "There she is."</p> + +<p>There she was, the <i>Renown</i>, in alongside, waiting to sail with His +Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to Australasia. It was the day before +and already the function was in the quickened air. Scraps of coloured +bunting fluttered and flew on the wharf sheds. Dockyard officials gave +orders with more responsibility than ever immediately under their caps. +The travellers from Waterloo went up the gangway to the quarter-deck,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> +successfully passed the officer of the watch, and found their quarters. +They were the journalists of the tour, there on behalf of the people at +home, that multitudinous "public" which, for lack of accommodation on +the <i>Renown</i>, must see the Prince's tour in the convex mirror of the +daily press.</p> + +<p>Next day the function flowered. The Royal train rolled in. The red +carpet was spread and the Chief Passenger went up the gangway, with +every sign and circumstance by which his country could mark the occasion +of his going.</p> + +<p>Gently the grey turrets slid out from the crowded wharf into the leaden +expanse of harbour. "Auld Lang Syne" rang into the chill wind that +rocked the rowing-boats lining the fairway. Ant-like figures swarmed +into the tall rigging of Nelson's flagship, which lay, bedecked all +over, her old oak sides stiff in checkered squares of black and white, +while her ancient muzzle-loaders banged off a smoky salvo—the +senior ship of the British Navy wishing Godspeed to her fighting junior +on Royal Service starting. The hundred and twenty thousand horse-power +steam turbines of the battle-cruiser quickened their rhythmic throb. The +still shouting crowds ashore faded to dark stains on the Southsea beach. +The red and gold of the Royal standard fluttered down from the main, and +the <i>Renown</i> put out to sea, starting on this pleasant commission with +the same certitude and the same cheeriness, the same discipline and the +same lightness of heart, the same directness of purpose, and above all +things the same absence of fuss, with which she had often gone upon +errands perilous. The voyage, so much anticipated and chronicled, had +begun, and the convincing thing was that it was going to be, from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> +<i>Renown's</i> point of view, precisely like other voyages. That impression +came with the first turn of the propeller and remained, it may be said +at once, until the last. The circumstance and ceremonial of the +departure, the pomp of Royalty and the glitter of an Imperial mission +had all merged, before the sun set in the cloud-bank of that March +afternoon, in the sense of function and routine, detached and +disregarding, that controls life in His Majesty's ships at sea.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> is the most recent, the fastest, and the best armed +battle-cruiser in the world. She received at her christening the proud +traditions, extending over three hundred years, of the battles of the +British Navy, having had no less than seven fighting predecessors of the +same name, beginning with the gallant little wooden frigate <i>Renommée</i>, +captured in 1653 from the French and transferred to the British +squadrons where she became the first of the famous <i>Renowns</i>. The +present vessel was built as lately as 1916, when British need was great. +She remains a record of what those strenuous times could do.</p> + +<p>For all her thirty-two thousand tons and gigantic armament of mammoth +guns this great battle-cruiser slides through the water with the +smoothness of the otter. She moved steadily at eighteen knots an hour +from the time she left Portsmouth, a pace which, for this last word in +fighting machines, is mere half-speed, though it is as fast as most +suburban trains can travel. She is so big that surprisingly little +motion is noticeable at sea, though waves wash freely over forecastle +and quarter-deck, contracting the space available for the exercise and +training of the large fighting crew she carries. This intimacy with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +the ocean is an impression acquired early and vividly by the civilian on +board a fighting ship. A voyage on a big liner is a quite super-marine +experience by comparison, with a picturesque and phosphorescent basis +some distance below a sleepy deck-chair, and not necessarily observed at +all. A battleship penetrates rather than sails the sea, and takes very +little interest in keeping any part of herself dry. It is impossible to +ignore the ocean on such a vessel. The <i>Renown</i> was no less amphibian +than others of her class. The accommodation contrived for the Prince +was itself liable to ruthless visitation, and even the cabin on the +superstructure, which held the chroniclers of his Odyssey, and was +the highest inhabited spot beneath the bridge, occasionally took +considerably more than enough water to dilute the ink.</p> + +<p>Naturally there was nothing in her mission to interfere with the +<i>Renown's</i> ordinary routine at sea. Training, gun-drill and inspections +went on as usual and it was impossible not to be penetrated with the +fact that these things were admirably done. For the passengers the day +began with breakfast in the ward-room at eight. Soon after nine the +whole ship's company assembled in divisions, in different parts of the +vessel. Kits were inspected and the day's duty commenced. One realized, +as one watched the proceedings, how completely the war has abolished the +old navy methods of stiffness and pipeclay. The relations between +officers and men are of the pleasantest and most human character. Nobody +is asked to do anything not of definite importance to the welfare of the +ship, or to the training and the making fit of the men. The navigation, +the keeping of the watches, the working of the complicated machinery<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +by which the vessel is driven, steered and lighted, the handling of the +gigantic guns, and the running of such supplementary services as those +of supply and wireless, proceed upon simple matter-of-fact business +principles, under the direction of the Captain, who controls the +organization as a whole. Immediately under the Captain are the +Navigation Commander, the Administration Commander, the Engineer Commander, +the Gunnery Lieutenant-Commander, the Torpedo Lieutenant-Commander, the +Principal Medical Officer, and the Paymaster, each an expert in the +particular branch he is responsible for. Unquestionably an expert too is +the ship's parson who, himself belonging to the upper deck, is related, +by his duties, so closely to the lower, as to afford a personal link +between the two, which no less sympathetic or more official intermediary +could supply. Each of the departments I have named is manned by its own +staff of officers and men, who are all trained to carry out definite +functions with cheerfulness, confidence and goodwill. On the <i>Renown</i> +the same healthy spirit was to be found in every one aboard, from the +Flag-Lieutenant down to the humblest stoker. It is an early inoculation +of Osborne and Exmouth and apparently expands in the system with +promotion.</p> + +<p>At general divisions on Sundays, the entire ship's company assembled for +inspection on the decks, each officer at the head of his respective +contingent. A finer sight than these divisions it would be impossible to +find, the men well-set-up, and bearing decorations won in every naval +engagement during the war, from Zeebrugge to the Falkland Islands, and +from the Dardanelles to Jutland, wearing too in many cases the red<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +triple stripe upon the sleeve which tells of fifteen years of good +service under the White Ensign.</p> + +<p>A battle-cruiser has many aspects. It is a fortress with parade grounds +and cricket pitches, a monastery with divagations in port, a school of +many things besides arithmetic, and a community that could teach social +law to Mr. Hyndman. It is above all from this point of view the home, +the castle and the club of the officers and men who inhabit it, and the +centre of these significances is the ward-room. The <i>Renown's</i> had an +ante-room which enshrined the files, not greatly disturbed, of a few +newspapers, and was a most comfortable smoking-room, but it was about +the tables and chairs, the Mess President's mallet and the unwearied +piano of the ward-room itself that the hoariest traditions of His +Majesty's Navy most conspicuously flourished and the atmospheric essence +of the Senior Service most happily clung.</p> + +<p>There is a variety of the game of Patience played with cards called +"Knock." It was plainly invented, in a moment of drowsy leave, by a +sub-lieutenant to whom had arrived the felicity of ordering, by a stroke +upon the table, Commander X or Lieutenant-Commander Y to "pass the wine" +in penalty for having read an urgent signal from the bridge and omitted +to excuse himself to him, the said Sub-Lieutenant, and Mess President +for the week, though youngest officer present. Various were the offences +thus visited across the field of the repast, which had a goal at each +end, kept, so to speak, by the Chaplain, with his grace before and after +meat. In that consecrated interval no lady's name may be pronounced, and +nothing of any sort may be perused. The Spell with which the ward-room +guards its daily history at once paralyses the pen. There is really<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +no way of learning much about these things except by entering the Navy +or persuading a battle-cruiser to give you a berth in her, opportunities +which occur but seldom to any of us. The relaxations of that genial +and athletic place form a tempting theme, but it is better for the +publishers that a modest number of these volumes should reach the +libraries than that a whole edition should be sunk at sea.</p> + +<p>All this announced and admitted however, this was the voyage to +Australasia of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and the <i>Renown</i>, at least in +the public eye, must be subordinated to her duty.</p> + +<p>The Prince was to be met quite often, going about the ship, like anybody +else, with always an unaffected word and pleasant smile for those he ran +up against. He did a good deal of reading and other work in his +state-room in the morning, but in the afternoon he often shared in the +recreations of the officers, playing squash racquets in a small court +that had been rigged up upon the superstructure, shooting at clay discs +thrown out from the ship's side by means of a spring trap, or running +and doing Swedish exercises on the poop. H.R.H. ordinarily messed with +the Captain and the members of the Royal Staff, in the cuddy, which had +been enlarged and pleasantly decorated in ivory and green for the +purpose; but he was also an honorary member of the ward-room and +gun-room messes and sometimes dined with one or other of them. On other +nights he often had officers or passengers to dine with himself and his +staff, in the simplest and most informal way, his guests coming away +with the pleasantest impressions of unpretentious good fellowship and +cheery company. On these occasions the Prince himself proposed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +health of the King, and about this ceremony, simply and modestly as it +was observed, hung an odd little Imperial thrill. Republics are worthy +forms of Government, but they impose upon no man the duty of toasting +his own father. It was a gesture that somehow placed the youthful host +momentarily apart—one imagines his having to reconquer the effect +of it as often as he makes it.</p> + +<p>The Prince is keen upon naval affairs and soon knew the ship from one +end to the other. He often accompanied the Captain on inspections and +took a hand in all sorts of duties, down to those of the oil furnaces. +He sampled the men's food, tasted their grog and would often have a +cheery chat with them. There was no attempt to sequester the Chief +Passenger. He shared and contributed to the life of the ship.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II</h2> + +<h2>BARBADOS</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Gloom was cast over the <i>Renown</i>, the day before reaching Barbados, by +the falling overboard, in rough weather, of a fine young gunner of +marines, who was sitting on the taffrail gaily talking to his mates when +a roll came that sent him into the sea. The poor fellow had hardly +stopped falling when patent life-buoys, which sent out white clouds of +smoke, easily visible in the bright afternoon sunshine, were dropped. +The big ship swung round. The man was swimming, when lost to view +amongst white-topped waves. A boat was smartly lowered, and within +fifteen minutes of the cry "Man overboard," the rowers had reached the +buoys and were carefully searching the precise spot where the speck +which had been one of our company had disappeared. The Prince was much +concerned at the accident, and came upon deck the moment he heard of it. +But our hearts grew heavy as the minutes went by and the search proved +vain. It had eventually to be recognized that the unfortunate man had +sunk before reaching the life-buoys, close as they had been dropped to +him in the water. A funeral service was afterwards held on the +forecastle, the entire ship's company and all the officers attending<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +to pay respect to the memory of their shipmate. The Prince also sent a +personal message by wireless to the relations of the deceased. It was +one of those accidents that no amount of care can entirely prevent, upon +the necessarily low, and but slightly fenced decks of a modern +battle-cruiser in a heavy sea.</p> + +<p>The following evening the <i>Renown</i> arrived off Barbados. The +light-cruiser <i>Calcutta</i>, flagship of the West Indian squadron, met her +at sea and escorted her in to the anchorage half a mile from shore. A +dozen sailing barques, mostly American, also three or four steamers of +various nationalities, were lying at anchor, all of them decked with +bunting in honour of the Royal visit. The usual salutes were fired and +formal exchange of calls between the Prince and Sir Charles O'Brien, +Governor of the island, and Admiral Everett, commanding the West Indian +station, took place.</p> + +<p>It was the first pause for the purpose of the tour, the first official +touch. The feeling of function, of standing at attention, which was soon +to clothe the enterprise as with a garment, fell upon all concerned. The +silk hat for the first time bobbed in the visiting steam-launch, and the +address came out of the breast pocket of the municipal morning coat.</p> + +<p>Bridgetown, the capital of Barbados, as seen from the <i>Renown</i> through +the soft warm muggy atmosphere of the end of March, was a tumbled mass +of white and red buildings embowered in emerald foliage, and fringed by +the masts of anchored sailing vessels, themselves reflected in the +broken amethyst of the open roadstead. The narrow streets had been +decorated by the wives and daughters of the residents, headed by Lady +Carter, wife of a late governor of the island, who had expended an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +immense amount of labour upon the work. Gigantic sago-palm leaves had +grown into royal emblems wherein the fronds took the place of feathers. +The Broad Street of the city might have been a Cantonese bazaar, so +thick was it with coloured banners. Nelson's statue, in the local +Trafalgar Square, looked out of a mass of brilliant floral designs. An +imposing triumphal arch of flowers had also been erected. Even the tiny +wooden huts of the negroes, on the outskirts, carried paper decorations +that must have cost much labour to make. A well-set-up company of +volunteers furnished a guard-of-honour at the landing. The members of +the Barbados House of Assembly, headed by the Governor in white +political uniform, received the Prince. Bands and salutes added to the +formality of the occasion. Complimentary addresses were presented in the +old Assembly House, where the Prince shook hands with a remarkably long +line of returned military and naval officers and men, for Barbados sent +an extraordinary large proportion of her sons to the war.</p> + +<p>A fleet of motor-cars then turned up and the Prince was taken for a +drive through the island. The procession was headed by that veteran +planter and member of Assembly, Mr. Graham Yearwood, who seemed to have +at his finger-ends every local romance of the past three hundred years, +from the story of the "Rendezvous" on the coast, where loyalist planters +repelled the onslaught of Cromwellian squadrons, to that of a certain +cavernous gully which we also saw, where, for long months, was hidden +the body of a swashbuckling moss-trooper slain in single combat by a +Barbadian planter. The Prince was also conducted over the buzzing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +machinery of an immense, up-to-date sugar-factory, fitted with the +latest appliances, and learnt something of the vicissitudes of the sugar +industry, an enterprise which was doggedly operated through years of low +prices, bad crops, and hurricanes, and only narrowly saved from complete +bankruptcy by a grant obtained from the British Parliament by Mr. Joseph +Chamberlain. At the time of the Royal visit, it was in a state of +abounding prosperity with prices at twelve times their pre-war level. +Even with the year's by no means favourable season the current crop was +valued at eight times the average of five years previously, which meant +ease and comfort to all connected with this premier industry of the +island.</p> + +<p>The whole of the city portion of the route was lined—in places ten +deep—with cheering, laughing, bowing coloured people and their +women and piccaninnies; the folk of the cane fields and factories. In +the country portion of the route, negroes rushed to the roadside from +their work in the fields the moment the Royal car appeared in sight. +"God bless you!" they cried to the Prince. "Come! Come! Lookee here, he +too sweet boy!" "God bless my old eyes that have seen him," mingled with +laughter and the clapping of hands, while old men bowed low, with +dignified, wide-armed, slow gesticulation, and women and girls, +sometimes smartly got-up with head-kerchiefs made of Union Jacks, and +always with strong, free hip-gait, and the widest of white-toothed +smiles, came running to drop a curtsy or bend in salute. It was real +contagious joy and excitement, like the overflowing froth of a bottle of +Guinness, and as for the noise only a Jazz Band could describe it.</p> + +<p>The road was sometimes crowded with four-wheeled mule-drawn carts, +piled high with fresh-cut, yellow sugar-cane, on its way to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +presses, each stem the thickness of a rolling-pin and the length of a +cavalryman's lance, for the harvesting was in full swing. The negroes +take the crop, which looks much like sorghum or Indian corn, with +cutlasses, primitive work done by primitive people. The luscious +growth needs a good deal of fertilizing and care the year round, and +generations of these simple folk have thriven upon it since the middle +of the seventeenth century. Seventy-four thousand acres of it there are +and probably a hundred thousand negroes producing it, all, so far as we +could observe, delighted to see the Prince of Wales.</p> + +<p>The road wound sometimes through pillared aisles of stately sago-palms, +past dense groves of green mahogany and bread-fruit trees or brilliantly +red flowering devil-trees, hibiscus, and silk-cotton. Sometimes one saw +brown heaps of sweet potatoes, as large as turnips, just dug from the +earth. The procession climbed through open fields of uncut sugar-cane +and sorghum, getting a fine view of rolling cultivation, bordered with +blue sea and white surf-swept beach. Ancient windmills swung black, +droning sails on the hill-tops. Tall brick chimneys told of +long-established crushing mills close to the cane fields. Cheerful +villages of flimsy wooden shacks and solid stone houses followed one +another in quick succession, each with its inhabitants lined up in +holiday clothes to cheer. Again and again the Prince alighted to inspect +boy-scouts, girl-guides, and war-workers, or to say a pleasant word to +assemblies of school-children. One gathering proved a community of +"Red-legs," descendants, now of mixed race, of Scotch and Irish prisoners +of war and "unruly men" exiled and sold for seven years as white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +servants to the colony in 1653. It was easy to pick out in the +white-clad crowd individuals with negro features and pale Celtic skins.</p> + +<p>Later in the day, the Prince attended a formal state dinner, and evoked +a storm of applause by contradicting emphatically a rumour, which had +been causing a good deal of anxiety in the island, to the effect that +there was a possibility of some of the West Indies being disposed of to +America. "I need hardly say," said His Royal Highness, downrightly, +"that the King's subjects are not for sale to other governments. Their +destiny, as free men, is in their own hands. Your future is for you +yourselves to shape, and I am sure Barbados will never waver in its +loyalty, three centuries old, to the British Crown."</p> + +<p>It would thus appear that Cromwell's experiment is not likely to be +developed by the present government. The assurance was noteworthy as the +first of the pleasant and telling things the Prince had to say during +his progress, opportunities which he never missed and which, in the +aggregate, enhanced so greatly the success of his mission.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III</h2> + +<h2>PANAMA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">At dawn, in hot, soft, hazy weather, the <i>Renown</i>, followed by the +<i>Calcutta</i>, left the blue, transparent waters of the Caribbean Sea and +entered the green, muddy channel, fringed with dense, verdant forest, +which is the beginning of the Panama Canal. Three aeroplanes, each +bearing the stripes of the American Air Service, droned overhead in +noisy welcome. Resonant concussions and white, fleecy puffs of smoke +amidst low wharves and jetties where Colon lay in the forest, spread a +Royal salute upon the vibrating air. Music arose upon the <i>Renown</i>, +while staff-officers arrayed themselves in gold-lace and helmets, ready +to receive the Prince's guests. Launches arrived at the ship bringing +the British Minister to Panama, Mr. Percy Bennett, accompanied by +Captain Blake and Major-General Bethell, respectively naval and military +attachés at the British Embassy at Washington. An hour's quiet steaming, +thereafter, brought us to the giant Gatun locks, which stand in three +black tiers of steel, the gates rising, one above another, in a massive +setting of grey, rounded concrete, a severing gash in the high, green +hill which is the Gatun dam. Here, Señor Lefevre, President of the +Panama Republic, Admiral Johnston and Colonel Kennedy, commanding the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +American naval and military forces in the Panama Zone, also Engineer +Colonel Harding, Governor of the Canal, and Monsieur Simonin, French +Chargé d'Affairs, came on board.</p> + +<p>The formality attending these official arrivals, so often to be repeated +throughout the tour, was practically always the same. The visitor who +came up the gangway from the dock or the launch, as the case might be, +saluted the quarter-deck—a survival this from the days when it +bore a crucifix—and was saluted in turn by the Officer of the +Watch, who, with his telescope tucked under his arm, conveyed the +stranger past the row of marines drawn up at attention to the Captain +and the Equerry in waiting, who brought him up the starboard companion +to the mezzanine deck. Here he would be received by the Prince attended +by his Staff. The visit seldom exceeded twenty minutes. When H.R.H. left +the ship for the shore the Captain awaited him on the quarter-deck and +conducted him past the marines presenting arms to the gangway. On these +occasions the junior members of the party were the first to step off, +finishing with the Admiral and last of all the Prince, both Admiral and +Prince being "piped over the side" to the shrill music of the bos'n's +whistle. There was as little variation about the arrival on shore. +Always the guard-of-honour, the band, the stunting aeroplanes, always +six bars of "God Save the King" and the pause at attention, always the +hand-shaking with the officer commanding the guard-of-honour, the +inspection, and so to the business and pleasure of the visit.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 595px;"> +<img src="images/illo016a.png" width="595" height="460" alt="A_SHARP_CORNER"/> +<span class="caption"><br /> +PANAMA CANAL: A SHARP CORNER<br /> +<br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo016b.png" width="600" height="461" alt="SURF-BOARDING" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />SURF-BOARDING AT HONOLULU<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + +<p>On this occasion the guard of American soldiers in white uniforms and +the familiar wide-brimmed hats was drawn up upon the lawn beside the +topmost lock. Thence, past some thousands of prosperous-looking +employees of the Canal, and their families, who had turned out to see +the reception, the Prince was taken to the Control House, whence the +whole of the operations of the locks are regulated, from the +manipulating of the little, black, towing mule-engines, which ran +busily, like scarabaeid beetles, up and down rails set in concrete +slopes on the top of the lock walls, to the opening and closing of the +seventy-foot high gates, and the letting in and letting out of the green +sluggish water.</p> + +<p>From the veranda of the Control House we got our first striking +impression of the dramatic achievement of the Canal. We were on the +level of the wide island dotted expanse of the Gatun lake. The +enormous <i>Renown</i> and the tiny <i>Calcutta</i> lay, side by side, in +thousand-feet-long pools, at our feet, in a turmoil of waves of rushing +water, out of which, from time to time, some frightened fish would leap, +a silver gleam that disappeared before one had made out its shape or +kind. The great design was in action before our eyes. The locks opened +and closed with extraordinary speed and almost noiseless efficiency, and +by the time the Prince had returned from inspecting the monster spillway +and power-house, to which he was carried in a tiny train that was in +readiness alongside the locks when we arrived, the <i>Calcutta</i> was +already entering the lake, while the <i>Renown</i> had surmounted the locks +and was only waiting to take on the Royal party before following in her +wake.</p> + +<p>The route thereafter lay at first through the green water of the lake, +past islands covered with densest jungle. About the middle of the lake, +we passed masses of bare tree-trunks, standing erect in the water, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +either side of the broad track that is kept clear for the passage of +ships. These trees are what remain of a forest that covered the bottom +of the valley before the building of the dam which converted it into a +lake. The trunks, though standing in some seven fathoms of water, still +keep their branches and project many feet above the surface; and have to +be avoided by passing ships. This dismal avenue has kept its place for +ten years. It must have been green once. Like a forest after a great +burning it stands in skeleton and carries no leaf now, a curious +reminder that water can be as pitiless as fire.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we entered the Culebra cut. Here man has been at grips +with nature in her least amiable mood. The channel becomes a winding +gorge through steep, rugged crags and rounded hills. The stupendous +cutting shows treacherous alternating layers of red gravel, yellow sand, +brown crumpled rock, and soft, slippery blue clay. A number of mammoth +floating steam dredgers were here at work, a fresh slip having occurred +a few days previously. Progress, therefore, had to be of the slowest. A +climax was reached near the end of the cutting, where, at a sharp curve +in the channel, a whole hillside, half a mile each way, had commenced to +move, the débris extending right into the canal, which was also impeded +by a small island, apparently squeezed up from the bottom by the +terrific pressure of the slipping hill. The place looked almost +impossible, the great length of the <i>Renown</i> making the manœuvring +of her in what remained of the channel one of the trickiest pieces of +navigation imaginable. Naval officers are not easily put off, however, +and by the most delicate handling, the vessel ultimately crawled past<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +the obstruction. The cheerful little red-roofed township of Pedro Miguel +was reached soon afterwards. Here the entire population had turned out +to see the Prince, the girls in brilliant costumes, amongst which one +might sometimes see the black mantilla of Spain; the men in anything, +from working overalls and slouch hats, to the leisured fashions of New +York. At Pedro Miguel began the slow process of descending to the level +of the Pacific. The first lock dropped us some thirty feet into the +picturesque lake of Miraflores, surrounded by rounded grass-grown hills, +emerald in the setting sun. Two more locks followed at the end of the +lake, and we entered a stretch of water at ocean level, which took us to +the docks at Balboa, upon the Pacific, close to the city of Panama.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo018.png" width="600" height="446" alt="AUCKLAND HARBOUR" title="" /> +<span class="caption"><br />EXCITEMENT GROWS IN AUCKLAND HARBOUR<br /> +<br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo018a.png" width="600" height="446" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />NEW ZEALAND: THE PRIME MINISTER TAKES CHARGE<br /> +<br /></span> +</div> + +<p>At Panama the Prince had the most friendly and hospitable reception, +banquets and balls succeeding one another on shore, while on the +<i>Renown</i> several ceremonies took place, including the receiving and +replying to addresses from British, West Indian and East Indian +residents. Some of the local cordiality was quaintly worded.</p> + +<p>"In frantic supplication we fling ourselves at the feet of Almighty God +to shower His blessings upon Your Highness." More, it may be imagined, +could not be done. "If we be allowed another paragraph may we then be +permitted, in this final gasp, to express our desire that Your Royal +Highness will greatly enjoy your short visit to this port." It is +understood that the desire of the permitted paragraph and the final gasp +was not denied.</p> + +<p>Another picturesque ceremony was when the Prince drove in procession to +pay a formal visit to the President of Panama. The motor-cars first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +traversed the wide American zone of the Canal region, speeding over +smooth, asphalt roads, past well-built verandahed houses, with white +walls and dark-coloured jutting roofs, the windows and doors meshed with +fine wire-gauze, an arrangement which gives them the appearance of +prosperous meat-safes. These houses are part of the wonderful sanitary +arrangements which have turned Panama, from being a yellow-fever camp, +into one of the most healthy regions in the world. They are inhabited by +the engineering, traffic and administrative staffs, and the police and +military establishments of the Canal zone. They stand in spacious +gardens with beautifully-kept lawns and flower-borders, and are supplied +with up-to-date electric-light and fans, good drinking-water, and +perfect installations of sewers. There are also carefully thought +out clubs and institutes, which supply the Canal employees with +entertainment for their spare hours, alcoholic liquor alone excepted, +for the zone is strictly "dry."</p> + +<p>Smart American sentries saluted at the barbed wire boundary, whence the +route wound past conical hills which may well have been the range that +gave to Drake the first white man's view of the Pacific Ocean. +Thereafter the procession plunged into the narrow streets of Panama +city, which were lined with cheering, laughing crowds of gaily dressed +negroes, Mexicans and Spaniards. Bunting fluttered from every window in +the high tiered houses. An escort of picturesque mounted police, with +rough peaked saddles and undocked horses, closed in on either side. +Immense, decorated barouches, drawn by fine pairs of Mexican horses, +were substituted for the Canal zone motor-cars, and the procession<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +moved on in state, the Prince alighting, <i>en route</i>, to inspect a fine +body of about a hundred returned soldiers of the West Indian Regiment +who had assembled in his honour.</p> + +<p>The President and his entire council, in black frock-coats and shining +top-hats, welcomed the party upon the steps of the Presidential House, +a pleasant residence, with garden quadrangle, overlooking the sunny +harbour. The Prince was conducted upstairs to a large reception-room, +hung with yellowing paintings of previous Presidents, where compliments +were exchanged and refreshments offered. Later in the day an official +dinner was given, at which the President proposed the Royal health in +flowing Spanish, mentioning the large number of residents, in the chief +cities of Panama, who are British subjects from the West Indian islands, +and emphasizing the gratitude felt by all Panamanians towards Great +Britain for having taken up the cause of the smaller nations in the +World War. The reference filled several eyes in the company with +conscious rectitude, and they were not all British.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV</h2> + +<h2>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">In passing the Culebra Cut landslide, in the Panama Canal, one of the +propellers of the <i>Renown</i> touched a submerged rock which had escaped +the notice of the surveyors. When Balboa harbour was reached the ship's +divers went down to see what the damage amounted to; and as poking about +the cruiser's bottom, thirty-three feet below the surface, in muddy +water infested with sharks, is, to say the least, an unpleasant task, it +was characteristic of the ship that one of the first to don diving-dress +and go over the side was the Engineer-Commander himself. The result was +to ascertain that one of the blades of one of the propellers had had a +small piece broken off, but that the damage was so slight that it would +not be necessary to dock the vessel for repair.</p> + +<p>A start was therefore made for San Diego, our next port of call. The +course skirted the mountainous coast of Mexico, which showed mistily on +the starboard horizon. The water was of the smoothest and clearest, and +of tint so blue as to be almost azure. The temperature was tropical, and +we found surprising abundance of sea-life. Yellow turtles, as big as +footballs, with their little pointed heads stuck out to watch us, +floated by in scores. Schools of glistening porpoises leapt in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +sun besides a couple of big, slow-moving, log-like blackfish. You can +travel from London to Bombay and see hardly a creature, but here the +sea teemed. Birds too were plentiful—quantities of duck, white, +wheeling gulls, and black, slender, frigate-birds that sailed past like +kites.</p> + +<p>A few days later, in an amethyst sea, off the green slopes of Loma +point, the <i>Renown</i> cast anchor. The houses and towers of San Diego, +seven miles off, across the Harbour of the Sun, glistened pearl-like in +soft morning light, above the golden setting of the Coronada sand. Out +at sea, at dawn that day, six grey, business-like American destroyers +had met the <i>Renown</i> and escorted her in, a score of United States +flying-boats and aeroplanes hovering in well-kept formations overhead. +At the mouth of the harbour was lying that fine battleship the <i>New +Mexico</i>, flagship of the United States Pacific Squadron, which fired a +welcoming salute. After the anchor was down, Admiral Williams, acting +Naval Commander-in-Chief in the Pacific, who flew his flag on the <i>New +Mexico</i>, visited the Prince. Mayor Wild, of San Diego, and other local +residents also arrived from the shore to pay their respects.</p> + +<p>The morning was taken up with the receiving and returning of these +visits. In the afternoon the Prince landed at the municipal pier in the +heart of the city. Here he found Governor Stephens, of California, at +the head of a large deputation, waiting to welcome him. Every avenue to +the wharf was blocked with motor-cars. Well-dressed crowds pressed upon +the ropes that fenced in a central space reserved for British veterans, +to whom had been given the place of particular honour in the town's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +reception of its visitor. The veterans were some hundred and fifty +strong, and gave the Prince the heartiest of cheers. They proved to be +residents of California, about half of them being from San Diego itself. +They had all served in the forces of the British Empire in the Great +War. At their head was General Carruthers, lately Chief-of-the-Staff +with the Australian Expeditionary Force in France. It was a wonderful +spectacle of colour and cheerfulness, as the Prince went down the line, +shaking hands with his old comrades in the field, while mites in +pinafores pushed to the front to present him with bouquets, and pretty +girls in Highland costume sang "God save the King." The crowd broke +through the barriers, before the motor-cars, provided to convey the +party to the Stadium, had been reached, but everybody was in the +friendliest of humours, and did their utmost individually to make space +for the procession to start. The first three or four cars, containing +the Prince, the Governor, the Mayor, and a few of the Staff, eventually +got through. The rest extricated themselves gradually from the press of +people and vehicles, and made their way by more or less devious routes, +the road marked out for the procession having by this time become +so crowded as to be almost impassable. The procession reformed at +the Stadium, a mile or so distant. On the way, prosperous suburbs +of extraordinary attractiveness were passed, the houses often of +Spanish-colonial type, with deep verandas set in spacious gardens and +well-kept lawns, with masses of roses, geraniums, hibiscus, and purple +salt-grass in full bloom. The ground here was high, and one looked down +upon the city, with palm-trees in the foreground, and the harbour and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +its shipping in the middle distance, while on the horizon were piled the +rugged mountains of southern California, pink in the evening light.</p> + +<p>The Stadium proved to be a massive open-air amphitheatre of +cream-coloured stone, capable of seating fifty thousand spectators, of +whom some ten thousand were present. Here complimentary addresses were +presented and replied to, the gathering applauding, with equal energy, +the heart-to-heart statement of Mayor Wild that the Prince was a +"regular fellow," and the impressive periods of Governor Stephens, +who dwelt upon the importance of the Royal visit as strengthening +the connexion between the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race. +Another feature of the occasion was the playing of a gigantic open-air +organ, the largest of its kind in the world. The organist sat by the +roadside and the pipes of his instrument pointed unprotected to the sky. +An official dinner and a ball followed later in the day at the big hotel +on Coronada Beach. Innumerable motor and other parties had meanwhile +been organized by individual residents, every one of the thirteen +hundred sailors and marines on the <i>Renown</i> who could in any way be +spared from duty, being given a delightful outing and the kindest and +most hospitable of entertainment. In this way numbers of them were able +to see something of the wonderful country around San Diego, with its +incomparable mountains and valleys, and its hundreds of square miles of +fertile peach-orchards, just then one gorgeous mass of coral blossom.</p> + +<p>San Diego, with its famous bathing beach, its clear air, dry balmy +climate, and seventy thousand prosperous white inhabitants, thus took to +its generous western heart not alone the Prince himself, but also every +British soul aboard the ship by which he travelled. A year before, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +<i>Renown</i> had become acquainted, in New York, with American kindness and +hospitality which seemed, at the time, to be impossible to equal. The +ship now had experience, on the other side of the American continent, of +a similar reception, in every way as warm and spontaneous, accorded too +by people as representative of the western states of the Union as New +York is of the eastern. This inclusion of the battle-cruiser's men was +one of the pleasantest features at almost every port of call upon the +voyage, but it was nowhere more general or more genial than in this +American city of the Far South.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>V</h2> + +<h2>HONOLULU</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">In warm, moist atmosphere, and the tropical light that glares beneath a +cloudy sky, the <i>Renown</i> dropped anchor in the open roadstead off the +rocky coast of Honolulu. Around the ship were depths of clear, +iridescent blue, with streaks of brilliant green where the water +shallowed inshore. Further on, a line of low, white breakers bounded a +green patchwork of undulating cultivation which sloped upwards, with +occasional ploughed fields of red, volcanic soil, towards a cloud-topped +horizon of mountains in the interior of the island. Immediately +overhead, showing black against the clouds, half-a-dozen flying boats +and aeroplanes rattled a cheery American welcome. The smoke of the +light-cruiser and dozen destroyers which had met the <i>Renown</i> at sea and +escorted her to anchorage, drifted in the heavy air, blurring the cranes +and derricks of the inner harbour.</p> + +<p>Salutes banged off. Flags dipped and rose. Words of command rang through +the battle-cruiser. A guard-of-honour of marines, lined up in white +uniforms on the quarter-deck, came with a clank to attention. The notes +of the United States National Anthem floated out, as the American +Governor and other local authorities came aboard to pay visits of +ceremony to the Prince. It was our second glimpse of Imperial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +America. It is just twenty-two years since the United States, after some +preliminary coquetting with Queen Liliuokalani, took up this white man's +burden in the Pacific under the style of a Territory; and her guests, +more familiar with the conception, looked with interest at the fringe of +the experiment. It seemed immensely prosperous and contented. Its +obvious aspects were those of a principal base of America's naval power +and the bourn of an endless tide of tourists, for whom alone the place +might exist with profit. These naturally exposed a social life almost +exclusively American. Hotels, newspapers, warehouses, factories, and +stores were managed by Americans. Only on the beach among the bobbing +craft of the breakers were the island originals conspicuous, at home in +an element they love. Elsewhere they seemed to form a brown undercurrent +of the Hawaiian world, content, in their Polynesian way, with a little +so it was easily come by. They are still, one gathers, much governed and +influenced by the missionaries to whom they owe their Christian faith. +Like the North American Indians they are fast dying out. Like the +Burmese they are content to be supplanted in their own labour market by +others—Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and Filipinos. Doubtless +there are Hawaiian boys at American Universities, Hawaiian professional +men, Hawaiian merchant princes, cultivated Hawaiians who read Bergson +and Bernard Shaw and are the product of a generation of progress; but +our opportunity was too brief to find them. It is hardly surprising that +the Hawaiian was not greatly in evidence, when one was told that there +are but 22,000 of pure race, against 110,000 Japanese for example,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +31,000 Americans and British and 23,000 Chinese, with a considerable +Filipino element, and more than a flavouring of Spanish.</p> + +<p>On a large open space upon the wharf, surrounded by the substantial +stone buildings of a prosperous modern harbour, the Prince landed to +receive his welcome to the island. On one side of the square was an +up-to-date guard-of-honour of United States infantry at attention, every +button gleaming, every uniform stitch identical, with that felicity of +neatness so characteristic of American kit, as His Royal Highness shook +hands with its commanding officer, and walked down the line. On the +other side was a motley gathering of his own fellow-countrymen and +women, residents of the island, who had served with the British Forces +during the war, and had now gathered, in varying costumes much mingled +with khaki bearing many a worn decoration, to do honour to their King's +eldest son, whom they cheered lustily. On the third side of the square +the indigenous element was represented by pleasant, brown-faced young +men in blue uniforms of modern cut, over which they wore brilliant red +and yellow tippets of priceless "Oo" and "Iiwi" feathers, handed down +from days gone by, when they were insignia of Hawaiian royalty. Their +function, on behalf of the remaining representatives of the ancient +dynasty, was to garland the British Prince with "lais," ropes of +close-strung pink carnations and scarlet ilima flowers, bringers of +good-luck, and to present him with a polished brown calibash, the size +of a foot-bath, adze-hewn, a hundred years ago, from hard-wood felled in +the interior, and now filled with a luscious assortment of bananas, +mangoes, loquats, paw-paws, water-lemons, pineapples, bread-fruit, and +crimson mountain-apples, symbols which made him free of the good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +things of the island.</p> + +<p>Subsequently the Prince returned the official visits paid to him, and +was introduced to various local institutions. His reception by the +American Governor was in the spacious, many-windowed hall of the Iolani +palace, where an elected assembly of Hawaiian representatives now +prosaically meets in what were once such picturesque places of authority +as the king's bed-chamber and the queen's boudoir. On the walls a number +of mellowing oil-portraits, depicting stout, brown, benevolent monarchs, +uncomfortable but doubtless impressive in the tight fashions of the +Victorian age, mutely testified to the splendours of the past. They +seemed to look down at the function with mingled sorrow and superiority, +as those who could have given an entertainment committee points on such +an occasion as this.</p> + +<p>Famous the world over is the surf-riding of Honolulu's wide Waikiki +beach. To surf-ride with the joy of confidence it is necessary to have +an acute sense of balance; it is even more necessary to be able to swim. +The base of the exercise is a flat surf-board, the shape of a snow-shoe, +with which the rider swims out to meet the approaching breaker. This, +with bewildering agility, he then mounts and strides, and the breaker +carries him poised and dramatic to the beach. The adventure was most +graceful when it succeeded, but it often ended in a considerable tumble +in which the swimmer was lucky to escape a bang upon the head from his +own capsized means of support.</p> + +<p>The Prince was naturally enthusiastic for an initiation, and came off in +the end passing well, to the delight of the heterogeneous crowd that had +assembled in bathing costumes appropriate to the warmth of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +occasion to see him undergo it. Cinematograph men, in swaying +surf-boats, made a valiant effort for pictures alongside the swimmers, +but, for once upon the tour, were handsomely discomfited, for the +rollers of the Waikiki beach are no respecters of public purposes.</p> + +<p>In the evening, H.R.H. was taken to an official ball, given by the +Governor, in the spacious town armoury, where the principal white +residents, now costumed in the garments of civilization, were formally +presented beneath a forest of national flags, amongst which predominated +the Stars and Stripes of the United States and the combined Union Jack +and tricolor of Honolulu. The ball was much as other balls, but it had +an unusual pendant. Before midnight struck the Prince was spirited away +ten miles across the island, through long shadowy aisles of pillared +cabbage-palms, shining ghost-like in dim starlight, beneath dense +foliage of bread-fruit, mango, and coco-nut trees, where sweet-scented +aloes perfumed the warm, still night, and on through grey cuttings in +volcanic rock, to the country-house of Mr. Robert Atkinson, to whom had +occurred the excellent idea of affording him an opportunity of seeing a +real "Hookupu" gathering, now a very rare event amongst the dwindling +race of Hawaiians. Stout, white-robed, brown-faced ladies, bearing the +coloured, feather-tipped sticks of royal state, and chanting the "aloa" +of welcome, lined the path leading to the deep-foliaged "ouhani" tree of +happiness which shaded the front of the bungalow, a self-sown visitant +that every Hawaiian prizes, provided only that it has not been +artificially planted, and that it is not at the back of the residence. +Here, in a large and reckless hole in the well-kept lawn, the entire<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +carcases of four pigs, quantities of chickens, fish, and sweet potatoes, +wrapped closely in green "ti" leaves, were in process of being roasted +by Hawaiian cooks, the heat being provided by boulders, previously made +red-hot, with which the sides and bottom of the pit had been lined. +Fruit was piled high in golden profusion, upon low, wooden platforms +around which, upon mats on the ground, the Prince and other guests took +their seats. Princess Kawananakoa, a lady of fine figure, in middle +life, dressed in the conventional garments of Bond Street, +representative of the Hawaiian Royal house, was given a place of honour +next to the guest of the occasion. Hawaiian soldiers in yellow robes, +with scarlet head-pieces that might have been patterned on the helmet of +Achilles, and gold-tipped "tabu" staves, the size of broom-sticks, which +represented life-and-death authority under the old régime, took up +stations in the background. Immense flower-garlands were hung round the +visitors' necks and they were served, upon plates of "ti" leaves, with +savoury viands from the still smoking pit.</p> + +<p>Then from gourd-lutes of a weird band of musicians, tinkled out a soft +refrain. Suddenly, from the dim shelter of an aerial-rooted banyan tree, +human voices reinforced the chant, and four Hawaiian damsels, +voluminously clad in flaming yellow feather-mantles, ending in deep +ruffs over the ankles, leapt gracefully upon a mat in front, where they +were joined by two similarly caparisoned and equally agile male partners +with whom they proceeded to dance. The performance was like an Indian +<i>nautch</i> run mad. The heads and busts of the dancers remained almost +stationary, thus forming a fulcrum around which the rest of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +persons seemed to gyrate, with serpentine arms, india-rubber hips, and +racing feet, the dancers, all the time, pouring out doleful melodies to +which the gourd-lutes twanged in solemn harmony. One could almost see, +as the weird notes rose and fell, Polynesian folk, in frail, palm-wood +canoes, blown out to sea by fierce Eastern typhoons, from fisheries on +the far coasts of the Malay, to perish mournfully and alone, in the vast +empty spaces of the Pacific, only an occasional wanderer, through the +centuries, finding refuge in some rare isle, and there building up a +race of mingled blood, whose high cheek-bones, soft tongue, swaying +dances and outrigged boats, speak of a Mongolian origin and an Eastern +home.</p> + +<p>Another expedition, on which the Prince was taken before leaving +Honolulu, was to a grass-grown hill, once the scene of human sacrifice, +where a pageant was being held in honour of the centenary of the arrival +in Honolulu of the Christian missionaries, who have played so important +a part in the history of the island. Here he saw half-naked folk, with +conch-shell trumpets, similar to those in use to-day at festivals at the +mouth of the Ganges, also processions of queer idol images that would +not have jarred the decorative scheme of a Durga-Puja celebration in +Hindustan. Scenes were here enacted, in which shapely brown maidens, +clad in ancient, indigenous paper garments, reminiscent of Japan, took +part. European missionaries, some of them lineal descendants of those +who landed in Honolulu from the brig <i>Thaddeus</i> in 1820, also appeared +in the garments of their predecessors of a hundred years ago. One of the +incidents depicted was the historical breaking up and burning of the +island idols in the days of Queen Kaahumanu, widow of King Kamshamcha,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +"the lonely one." There was a tense moment in the audience when the +first image had to be flung upon the ground, for superstition dies hard +even after a century's banning; but the image was flung and went into +fifty pieces, at the feet of civilization. Christianity is now the only +religion actively practised in the island, but the Hawaiian prefers to +be on the safe side in case the old powers of darkness should not be +altogether dead. He is not a whole-hearted iconoclast.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI</h2> + +<h2>NEPTUNE BOARDS THE <i>RENOWN</i></h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The relations between the Royal Navy and H.M. King Neptune are known to +partake of the spirit of compromise which so happily characterizes the +British Empire elsewhere. Neptune permits the suzerainty but demands a +certain ceremonial which acknowledges his ancient rights. The function +has a date and a determination and is observed by all King George's +vessels on crossing the Equatorial line. It is in the nature of an +initiation and lends itself to gruesome and alarmist description. For +days before the <i>Renown</i> reached the specified spot our feelings were +harrowed and our dreams disturbed by foretellings of the unescapable +ordeal of all novices. There was no immunity in being a passenger, even +in being the Chief Passenger. Neptune was not aware of passengers. The +wardroom was horrid with boding. Mercifully we were preserved from the +imagination of the snotties.</p> + +<p>The Royal Navy does nothing by half. Elaborate preparations were made +long in advance. Active brains in Wardroom, Gunroom, Warrant Officers', +Petty Officers', Engineers' and Stokers' messes and in the lower deck, +found a morning and an evening occupation inventing rhymed patter, +designing and making the weirdest of costumes, in which oakum, canvas,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +ship's-paint, and stove-soot all largely figured. An extensive stage was +erected on the forecastle with a sail forty feet long, containing four +feet of sea water, convenient for the "baptizing" of all those on the +ship, of whom there must have been at least five hundred, who had not +previously crossed the line. Wooden razors the size of cutlasses, +barrels of lather made of coloured flour and water, whitewash brushes +for applying the same to the countenance were provided, also a +gauge-glass for a clinical thermometer, a cutlass for a lancet, and +quantities of dough-pills, the size of marbles, well flavoured with +bitter quinine, for physicking the victim before his ablution.</p> + +<p>The Prince himself was one of the most active of the conspirators. To an +inquiry sent "up top" (i.e. to the Prince's quarters) a reply signed by +Captain Dudley North, R.N., was received by the "Father of the ship" +(i.e. the Commander), upon whose broad shoulders falls responsibility of +every kind.</p> + +<p>It ran:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has not yet crossed the Line. I +am desired by H.R.H. to say that he is looking forward with interest to +his meeting with His Majesty King Neptune and Amphitrite, his wife, and +also to his initiation as a Freeman of His Majesty's domains.</p> + +<p>The following members of the staff have crossed the Line, and are +entitled to wear the various classes of the Order of the Bath bestowed +on them by His Majesty:—</p> + +<p>Rear-Admiral Sir Lionel Halsey has crossed the Line on upwards of 200 +occasions; in fact, for some time this officer is understood to have +supported himself on it. It is understood that he has been strongly +recommended for the order of the 'Old Sea Dog.'</p> + +<p>Captain Dudley North has crossed the Line nine times, and has been +personally decorated by His Majesty.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + +<p>Lieut.-Colonel Grigg and Lord Claud Hamilton have already crossed the +Line—the former twice, the latter four times. These officers have, +however, stated that owing possibly to some special favour, or else to +some serious preoccupation on the part of His Majesty, they were not +privileged to undergo the full ceremony of initiation. They are all the +more anxious, therefore, on this account, to pay every respect to His +Majesty, and not to presume on his former graciousness. In expressing +their humble duty to His Majesty they await, with great humility, the +verdict of his most excellent Court as to whether they will be required +to be initiated or not.</p> + +<p>The following members of H.R.H.'s staff have not yet crossed the Line or +had the honour of an audience with His Majesty:—</p> + +<p>Sir Godfrey Thomas, Bart. Captain the Hon. Piers Leigh. The Bears will, +no doubt, attend to these gentlemen."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Each novice upon the ship meanwhile received a notice summoning him to +present himself at noon on the 10th April:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Before our Court, at the Equator, in order that we may confer upon you +the Freedom of the Seas, and our permission to enter the other +hemisphere."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The proceedings began after dinner over-night when the Prince and his +staff accompanied the Captain to the Bridge. The lights were turned off +and in the darkness one could feel the presence of the entire ship's +company crowded upon every vantage point.</p> + +<p>Out of the blackness from in front came the shout</p> + +<p>"Ship-ahoy!"</p> + +<p>with the Captain's deep</p> + +<p>"Aye, Aye,"</p> + +<p>in reply, as searchlights swept the sea.</p> + +<p><i>Neptune</i>: "What ship are you?"</p> + +<p><i>Captain</i>: "His Britannic Majesty's Battle-Cruiser <i>Renown</i>."</p> + +<p><i>Neptune</i>: "I wish to come on board."</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Captain</i> (to Officer of Watch): "Stop both." (To Neptune, shouting). +"My engines are stopped. I am sending an officer to conduct Your Majesty +to my Bridge."</p> + +<p>Rockets went up, and in a falling shower of sparks a procession of +strange figures climbed into the ship from over the side. Neptune, +Amphitrite, judge, barber, and doctor, with attendant imps, bears, and +policemen were there in the most realistic of scales, fins, mermaids' +hair and ursine fur. They carried brobdingnagian batons, razors, shaving +brushes and trident. Their appearance was terrific.</p> + +<p>The party was escorted with much formality to the Bridge, where Neptune +and Amphitrite were presented to the Prince and drinks were stood to +Their Majesties and the Court party, neither were there any heel-taps. +<i>Pourparlers</i> were exchanged in ceremonial verse, Captain Taylor making +the following frank explanation:</p> + +<div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Our business is to take a Royal Prince</span> + <span class="i0">To see a portion of our Empire's land.</span> + <span class="i0">The Prince of Wales, he is our passenger</span> + <span class="i0">Who hopes to meet your Bears and clasp your hand."</span> + </div> +</div> + +<p>It seemed impossible for the spirits of the deep to communicate in +anything less metrical than this, and Neptune acknowledged his reception +and announced his intention to hold an Investiture as well as a few +other things, the following day, in the same fashion.</p> + +<p>Next morning the circumstance was even more elaborate. Proceedings began +upon the quarter-deck, where the "Companionship of the Royal Order of +the Equatorial Bath" was solemnly conferred upon the Prince, and a +"Knight Commandership of the Ancient Order of the Old Sea Dog" upon +Admiral Halsey. H.R.H. responded in lyrical strains which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +concluded:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"I know I'm for it, King; so, boys,</span> + <span class="i0">Don't let me keep the party waiting"—</span> + </div> +</div> + +<p>a touch of <i>panache</i> that was duly applauded. The Court-Martial of two +selected prisoners came next to a roar from Neptune:</p> + +<div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"And if they drown I do not care a fig.</span> + <span class="i0">Arrest Mountbatten and the Man called Grigg!"</span> + </div> +</div> + +<p>For the moment these unhappy persons were roped and bound, while the +Investiture went forward. Captain Dudley North was made a Knight +Commander of the Aged Cod in these terms:</p> + +<div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Dudley dear, I'm pleased to meet you</span> + <span class="i0">Once again. Now let me treat you</span> + <span class="i0">To the old established Order of the Very Ancient Cod.</span> + <span class="i0">Its privilege is this,</span> + <span class="i0">That you may daily kiss</span> + <span class="i0">The most beauteous of my mermaids if you catch her on the nod."</span> + </div> +</div> + +<p>A move was finally made to the forecastle where was duly performed the +physicking, shaving and ducking of the novices, beginning with the +Prince and members of his staff and going down to the youngest seamen on +the lower deck. The novices were marched up and seated, one after +another, in the barber's chair, where a pill was squeezed into each +one's mouth, despite the most lively struggles; the lather was laid on, +a rough scrape with the wooden razor followed, the chair was upset and +the now seasoned novice was sent head over heels into the swimming bath, +where the Bears ducked him handsomely to the cheerful rhyme:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <span class="i0">"Shave him and bash him,</span> + <span class="i0">Duck him and splash him,</span> + <span class="i0">Torture and smash him,</span> + <span class="i0">And don't let him go!"</span> + </div> +</div> + +<p>The Prince underwent a full share of the horse-play; and that he took a +"three-times-three ducking" with the best, was the opinion of every one +of the thirteen hundred sailor-men who looked on, and would have been +candour itself if the ritual had been in any way reduced or evaded.</p> + +<p>It was a spectacle impossible to imagine anywhere but in the British +Navy, and helped hilariously to relieve the monotony of the voyage. The +cost of the material employed was probably less than a hundred +shillings. The labour and artistry voluntarily bestowed by the ship's +Company to make it what it was, cost nothing at all; the preparations, +from the elaborate embroidering of Amphitrite's scales and the careful +scenting of her golden hair, to the fine turning and engraving of the +Insignia of the Equatorial Order of the Royal Bath, were all the work of +off-duty hours when the sailor ordinarily would have been asleep. We are +but children of a larger growth and happy are the traditions that keep +us so in His Majesty's Navy.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII</h2> + +<h2>FIJI</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Fiji was the next place of call. Warm rain drove blusterously into our +faces, while dense grey mist enveloped the land and shut out the sun, as +the <i>Renown</i> felt her way between wreck-strewn barrier reefs, over which +the surf was breaking heavily, and dropped anchor, to the tick of the +appointed time, in the sheltered water of Suva Bay. As the ship cleared +the harbour entrance, a fleet of sailing craft, including a number of +decked, outrigged war-canoes, with pear-shaped mat-sails and half-naked +crews, tore dipping through the waves to escort her in. These war-canoes +tacked, in the stiff breeze, by a simple expedient. The sail was reversed. +The rudder, a big movable oar, was then carried from one end of the +canoe to the other, so that what had just been the prow became the +stern, the floating log, that served as outrigger, remaining always to +windward—apparently an attempt at realizing the historic account +of the bow-sprit that "got mixed with the rudder sometimes."</p> + +<p>The little craft were identical with those that Tasman may have seen +when his brig cast anchor off these islands three hundred and seventy +years ago. But everything else has changed. Generations of Wesleyan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +missionaries have transformed snake-worship into universal Christianity. +Sixty thousand coolies from India have rendered it possible for the +sugar-cane to replace unproductive forest. The ninety thousand +fuzzy-headed Fijians who have survived successive epidemics of measles +and influenza have given up the savoury heresies of roast long pig and +have taken on trousers, education, and wealth. The substantial +maroon-coloured roofs of their dwellings upon the shore, which emerged +from a tumbled background of cloud-topped mountain when the mist lifted, +were indicative of the prosperity and civilization which have been +steadily growing in the forty-six years since the British Government +took over the administration from King Thakombau.</p> + +<p>Sir Cecil Rodwell, High Commissioner of the Western Pacific, and Mr. +Scott, Mayor of Suva, representatives of the present system of rule, +came out by launch to the <i>Renown</i>, to pay their respects as soon as the +anchor was down. There was no official landing till the following +morning, when in hot sunshine alternating with warm, driving rain the +Prince went ashore at Suva. The entire population of the town, a place +of some six thousand inhabitants, was there to welcome him. In front, +the principal European residents, with a contingent of leading Fijian +chiefs, and representatives of the large Indian community, all in +western dress, were lined up to be presented. Behind stood a +well-drilled guard-of-honour of Fijians, in khaki, with heads protected +from the fierce rays of the sun by hair that might be the despair and +envy of the boulevards, twelve inches <i>en brosse</i>, and of a ferocity! +Further on were a number of European returned soldiers, with hospital +nurses, and other war workers, also returned members of a Fijian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +labour corps which had done good service in France and Italy. The whole +assemblage was surrounded by a polyglot crowd of Islanders and Indians +in all the picturesqueness of Polynesian and Oriental garb. Municipal, +Fijian, Indian, and missionary addresses were afterwards presented, and +inspections, investitures, and receptions held, a state dinner and a +ball being amongst the functions provided.</p> + +<p>Fijian national ceremonies took place in the afternoon, the principal +being the solemn presentation by the chiefs and headmen of "tahua" (the +whale's tooth) in token of fealty. This was celebrated, immediately +after heavy rain, on a meadow crowded with aborigines. The actors were +half a hundred well-fed, semi-naked Fijians, clad in nothing but sooty +face-paint, white cloth bustles, and loin-robes of green, pink, and +white fibre-ribbons. The general effect produced was that of an animated +contingent of frilled ham-bones that waved, leapt, swayed and chanted, +sometimes upright, sometimes squatting upon the sodden turf, a scene of +almost disconcerting gaiety. The whale teeth were handed to the Prince +by a white-robed hereditary courtier, and were the size and shape of +yellow cucumbers, strung together with coloured thread. The acceptance +produced a chorus of deep resonant grunts of "Daweha"—"It is +taken." There followed the no less solemn ceremony of preparing and +drinking the "<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Khava'">Kava</ins>," the produce of the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: +original reads 'Yagona'">Yaqona</ins> root, to cement the bonds of +friendship. The emptying of the last coco-nut cup of this sharp-flavoured, +cloudy liquid was greeted with loud cries of "Mada"—"It is dry."</p> + +<p>The <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Yagona'">Yaqona</ins> root, from a twig or two of which the <ins +title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'khava'">kava</ins> drink was +brewed, might have been an enormous ash-tree stool, with partly-grown<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +ground-shoots, uprooted from an English copse. The stripping of the +bark, the pounding it with stones, the macerating it with water in a big +carved wooden bowl, and its presentation to the Prince and other guests +in coco-nut shells, was performed with solemn chanting. The ceremony +included the stretching of a coco-nut fibre string, strung at intervals +of a few feet with cowrie-shells, in token of Royal authority, between +the Prince's chair and the men preparing the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'khava'">kava</ins>. To cross this string, +in days gone by, while the proceedings were in progress, would have +involved nothing less than to be clubbed to death. Those were doubtless +days when such functions were less chronicled and more respected.</p> + +<p>Timed clapping, which sounded like the thuds of successive buckets of +water thrown from an upper window upon the pavement, completed the first +part of the performance. A "meke"—dance—by three hundred +gorgeously caparisoned Fijian warriors, wielding each an ancient +battle-axe, which followed, was a marvel of well-timed movement. The +muddy ground shook as the men stamped in unison, their bodies swaying in +perfect rhythm as they acted the spirited paddling of canoes, the +hauling at ropes, the pointing at the enemy, the leaping from the boat +to the attack, and, after the fight was over, the sad breaking of the +waves upon the shore. Their deep "Dua-ho," or grunt of welcome to the +Prince, might have been the roll of many drums.</p> + +<p>The final stage in the performance came with the marching up of some +hundreds of white-garbed bearers, each carrying a locally woven mat. +These mats, some of them of a texture that challenged the fineness of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +a Panama straw hat, were deposited upon the ground in front of the +Prince in a heap that grew to the dimensions of a small haystack before +the last had been laid upon it, and this, although special steps had +been taken to reduce the number of the offerings by restricting the +issue of permissions to contribute.</p> + +<p>The size of the haystack indicated the prosperity, as well as the +loyalty, of the Fijian chiefs, who still own much of the land in the +islands. The rule of these hereditary potentates dates through centuries +prior to the advent of the missionaries and the taking on of +civilization. Their dislike of live intruders, combined with their +appreciation of them dead and roasted, kept their own Papuan stock +remarkably pure-blooded. The race to-day thus presents characteristics +of its own not found in other Pacific island groups. The only other +outside races, in addition to a few thousands of Europeans, now found in +Fiji, are coolies, of mixed descent, from India. These coolies were +originally imported under a system of indenture requiring them to work +for a definite number of years for planter masters. They have been the +means of developing sugar and copra industries which would not otherwise +have been established upon anything like their present scale. Of late +years the indenture system has been discontinued, and some trouble has +arisen in connexion with the question of wage-rates, riots having +occurred in which several lives were lost. The gradual appreciation of +the possibilities of peaceful bargaining, however, combined with the +enlightened efforts of the present administration to understand +grievances and to remedy them, is reducing the unrest, which is, in some +ways, a healthy one, since it connotes conditions of prosperity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +enabling the coolie to assert claims he was not previously strong enough +to press.</p> + +<p>The rich soil of the islands, and the equitable climate, which is much +like that of the rice-growing districts of the south of India, promise +enhanced prosperity as the years go by, Fiji being a locality especially +suitable for the Indian immigrant. It is a place that, during the war, +sent a remarkably large proportion of its manhood to fight for the +allies, those who remained at home also keeping up their end with +spirit. The visitor is told a story, which has the virtue of being +authentic, of an occasion when Suva was without any naval protection. +Its wireless installation picked up signals sent out by the German +raider <i>Scharnhorst</i>, showing that this vessel was on its way to attack +the place. Sir Bickham Scott, at that time High Commissioner, rose to +the situation and sent a message into the air for the <i>Scharnhorst</i> to +pick up. It was addressed to Admiral Patey, aboard H.M.S. <i>Australia</i>, +the only allied warship which, as the commander of the <i>Scharnhorst</i> +knew, might conceivably have been within call. It ran: "Thanks for your +message. Will expect you in the morning." The <i>Scharnhorst</i> presumably +read this and pondered, for Fiji was left alone.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII</h2> + +<h2>AUCKLAND</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">A still, sun-filled autumn morning, with crisp sharp air that made it a +pleasure to be alive, on wide, sheltered mother-of-pearl waters, bounded +by grassy hills, with frequent hummocks and white gleaming cliffs, +greeted the <i>Renown</i> as she neared New Zealand on the morning of the +24th of April, 1920. Dotted over the hills, like sheep at grazing, were +numerous red-roofed country houses, which developed pleasant gardens +with green fields between as the distance decreased. Out of shadowy bays +and inlets crept motor-boats in ones and twos and threes, the numbers +growing as township and village each contributed its quota, so that, by +the time the <i>Renown</i> was amongst them, there had assembled a fleet of +very considerable dimensions decorated with flags and filled with +cheerful men, women and children, soldiers in khaki, wounded in hospital +blue, pretty girls in smart frocks, all clapping, cheering, and laughing +in the most inspiring welcome imaginable.</p> + +<p>The Prince climbed to his look-out above the bridge, and waved back a +cheery acknowledgment. Bands struck up in half a dozen of the boats. +Flags leapt up like wind-swept flowers in a herbaceous harbour. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +hubbub grew. Numbers of sailing yachts joined the assemblage. Rowing +boats chipped in, and, by the time the first harbour buoy was reached, +the <i>Renown</i> was sliding along with some hundreds of small craft racing +beside her, in imminent danger of collision alike with her and with one +another. The last headland turned, Auckland itself came into view, a +red-and-white city climbing up the sides of a beautiful, sheltered cove, +with clear, deep water in front, and a green, conical extinct volcano +behind. Coloured bunting fluttered from the rigging of all the vessels +in port, and long vistas of greenery and flags led up the volcano from +the water's edge. One caught glimpses of wide wharves, black with +clustering crowds, and of dark masses of people on the slopes of +Rangitoto, all on the look-out for the arrival of the Prince from Mother +England.</p> + +<p>We had arrived at the first of the island continents which had drawn us +all, battle-cruiser, Prince and passengers, half-way round the world. +The ports of call behind us faded into instructive entertainments by the +way. Here was another home of the race, another place in the sun where +the breed throve and multiplied, and developed, under conditions fresh +and far from the source, the man and womanhood we are proud to call +British.</p> + +<p>Auckland was an appropriate starting point for the Royal tour. The city +was the capital of the Dominion until 1865 and now has over a hundred +thousand inhabitants. It was founded in 1840 by Captain Hobson, R.N., +when he added New Zealand to the Empire, the British Government having +characteristically disavowed the action of Captain Cook who set up the +Union Jack in 1779. The place had its godfather in Lord Auckland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +the most distinguished First Lord of the Admiralty in Hobson's time, and +thus a suitable sponser for the second city of a Dominion which owes its +being to the Empire's sea-power. Auckland now has a fine harbour and a +shipping trade of 2-1/2 million tons per annum. It is a place to which +the prosperous sheep farmer looks forward to retiring, as it has +educational opportunities, social amenities, and one of the most genial +climates in the whole Dominion.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> was brought alongside one of the wharves, on which black +top-hats and brilliant uniforms guided the eye to groups which proved to +include the Prime Minister of the country, the Leader of the Opposition, +the members of the Cabinet, the General Officer Commanding, the Mayor of +Auckland, and the President of the Harbour Board. Thus New Zealand +waited to greet the Prince.</p> + +<p>At the appointed moment the Governor-General drove up in a motor-car. +The ship was dressed. Bands played, guards on the quarter-deck presented +arms, His Excellency was duly conducted aboard, where the Prince as duly +received him. Later on, with more saluting, a full brass band for the +Governor, and bos'n's whistling for the Prince, the Royal party went +ashore, and New Zealand welcomed her future King. It was a little bit of +England that had gone on board to make a call of ceremony. It was the +whole of New Zealand, heart and hand, that took charge of His Royal +Highness ashore.</p> + +<p>Out of a multitude of motors the procession to Government House was +formed. The cars proceeded through wide, well-built streets of stone +business houses, smothered in wreaths and flags. Crowds of cheering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +people lined the pavement. Upstanding soldiers and cadets in smart khaki +uniforms kept the roadway. The Prince, by now, was standing on the +seat of his motor-car, waving greetings to the crowds, who responded +vociferously. Two equerries, on the front seats, clung to his coat-tail +to prevent his falling out of the vehicle. The Governor-General sat back +with a smiling face alongside. The route led through the city, and +out amongst solid residential houses, standing in gardens brilliant +with variegated chrysanthemums, flaming red salvias, purple +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bougainvillias'">bougainvilleas</ins>, and the greenest of shaven lawns, with cedars and palms +together spreading the shade of the north and the south.</p> + +<p>Old Government House, which still serves an Excellency from Wellington +on tour, where the Dominion's address was read by the Hon. Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, with his Cabinet standing by, is a spacious, Georgian +building surrounded by an old-world garden of lawns, shrubs and flowers. +It has a homely charm and beautiful views; it made one think of Surrey, +and must have been left with regret when New Zealand changed her +capital. Thence the route led back through the city to the Town Hall, +which was packed to its utmost capacity with well-dressed people who +gave the Prince a rousing reception. Here more addresses were presented, +and an informal levée was held, everybody present filing past. Large +crowds, meanwhile, waited patiently outside for his reappearance.</p> + +<p>Later in the day the Prince was taken to the Domain cricket-ground, +where he reviewed five thousand returned soldiers and cadets and again +received an ovation. This cricket-ground is at the bottom of a shallow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +valley, grassy hills forming a natural amphitheatre. Looked at from the +central stand while the review was in progress, the slopes of the +amphitheatre were as if covered with a fine Persian carpet, so thick was +the crowd upon the ground. It was a carpet that had frequent spasms of +agitation, the cheering and hat-slinging, whenever the Prince came near +to it, being exceedingly lively. H.R.H. first went down the lines of the +troops and had a friendly word for every officer and a number of the +men. Later on every man who had been wounded or disabled was presented +to him individually, the Prince going round to search them out himself. +When this had been completed he presented war decorations to those who +had won them at the front. It was nearly dark by the time the last hand +had been shaken and the last word said. The cheering, when it was over, +was something to remember.</p> + +<p>The following day was Anzac Sunday, and was taken up with religious +war-services, H.R.H. attending those at St. Mary's Cathedral in the +morning, and at the Town Hall in the afternoon. The Town Hall service +was especially impressive. The Prince, slender in the world-familiar +khaki, stood in the crowded gathering, and as the Dead March was played, +and the Last Post sounded in memory of sons who had fallen, the people +knew him the Empire's symbol of their sacrifice. Perhaps there, where +the women sobbed to see him, he touched the supreme height of his +mission.</p> + +<p>The cricket-ground, on the following day, was again the scene of an +enormous gathering. Eight thousand children were here assembled and +went through pretty evolutions and drill. In the terminal figure some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +two thousand little girls, attired respectively in red, white and blue +frocks, so grouped themselves as to form, first the word "Welcome," and +afterwards the Union Jack, which waved and rustled as the children bent +and swayed to time given by a mite mounted on an eight-foot stool in +front. The crowd which surrounded the enclosure, on this occasion, was +estimated at thirty thousand.</p> + +<p>From Auckland the Prince went south on a train, every part of which, +from the engine to the brake-van, had been built in New Zealand +workshops.</p> + +<p>The first thing one realizes starting for anywhere in New Zealand is the +thing that has been a geography wonder since the age of nine, the queer +inversion of the climate. The experience is curious, notwithstanding all +one's submission to the fact since that time, so potent a governor of +associations is a little word. We had arrived at the North Island, where +the climate was warm and sunny like that of Italy. People coming with +more permanent intentions had a way of settling in the South Island to +be under home conditions of temperature, many of them gradually moving +across the Strait to the North Island in pursuit of balmier airs. We saw +the late autumn apples of April here and there ungathered on the trees +about Auckland, and were grateful to escape the imaginative dislocation +of a midsummer Christmas, with sunstroke as the punishment of +over-indulgence. It would be interesting to know in what period of +residence New Zealand undertakes to change one's dreams.</p> + +<p>A green, rolling land, homely turnip fields, orchards, pasture +containing fine cattle and sheep, pleasant, red-roofed farm-houses,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +comfortable country residences, and thriving market towns at frequent +intervals, sped past the train. At Ngaruawahia, two thousand +brown-faced, high-cheekboned Maoris, in European dress, greeted the +Prince from outside the railway fence, men, women and children, hand in +hand, repeatedly bowing to the ground, to slow rhythmic soft-voiced +singing, as the train steamed by. At the same time, a dozen pretty Maori +girls, in flowing white frocks, bare feet, and raven masses of waving +fillet-bound hair, swayed, undulated and step-danced upon a mat upon the +side of the track. These folk were Maori, as often as not, by courtesy +rather than by strict racial description. Few pure-bred Maoris indeed +are now to be found in New Zealand, and it is said that the mixture of +brown and white is here more successful than anywhere else in the world. +At all events one received the impression of a people plastic to the +print of a new civilization, and developing happily in it.</p> + +<p>At Hamilton, a town of ten thousand inhabitants, more formal ceremonies +were gone through. The whole place was decorated. The people assembled +in the streets, where they cheered most vigorously. Several hundred +returned soldiers, and a very large number of children, stood in lines +upon the racecourse where they were inspected by the Prince. Several +addresses of welcome were read, that from the local municipality being +presented by Mayor Watt, a prominent Hamilton solicitor and a man of +much influence, also of dramatic instinct it appeared, since he +discarded for this occasion the chains and ermine of his official garb, +in favour of the private's uniform he had worn at the front.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + +<p>A few stations further on, five hundred children were upon the platform, +singing "God Bless the Prince of Wales," as the train went past. They +had come in from a neighbouring mining-camp to catch a glimpse of the +Royal visitor, who waved to them from his carriage. The flourishing +coal-mining centre of Huntley, where a valuable brown lignite, capable +of being coked, is being raised in large quantities from shafts, some of +which are only three hundred feet deep, was also passed, the inhabitants +assembling along the railway line and cheering as the train went +through. A large experimental farm, where the secret of converting +barren land into fruitful by means of basic slag has been discovered; +cold storage factories where incredible masses of New Zealand mutton are +being preserved for export; and extensive works where pumice, here found +in the scoria of long-extinct volcanoes, is turned into material for the +insulating of boilers, passed in procession before the train. We saw +also peat-swamps, in process of profitable reclamation by means of +drainage, in the valley of the wide Waikato stream.</p> + +<p>Presently a second engine was attached to the train, which now crept +slowly upwards, through a tangled wilderness of dense-forested gorge and +mountain canyon, the scenery being of the wildest. The imported spruce, +oak, willow, and ash of the more settled region gave place to feathery +green <i>punga</i> tree-ferns, and stiff brown <i>tawa</i> of indigenous growth. +Clearings were seen at intervals where cultivation struggled with the +grey, bushy <i>manuka</i> scrub; well-kept fields, in the hands of white +settlers, alternating with unkempt jungle, where the easy-going communal +<i>hapu</i> tenure of Maori ownership is still in force.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + +<p>Suddenly, the scenery opened up, and we saw, in the soft rays of the +setting sun, a wide panorama of blue lake, and olive-green headland, +round the dark, conical Mokoia island, famous in Maori tradition as the +trysting-place to which Princess <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Hinomaa'">Hinemoa</ins> and her lover Tutanekai swam +across the lake. Here, almost in the shadow of the Tarawera volcano, +which blew up with terrific results to the countryside thirty years ago, +we found the pleasant little station of Rotorua, where an address was +presented and the Prince shook hands with a long line of returned Maori +soldiers.</p> + +<p>Visits to the wonderful spouting geysers of this famous neighbourhood, +with Maori receptions and national dances, occupied the next two days, +some of the party also taking advantage of the holiday to catch a number +of very fine lake-trout, creatures which have thriven and multiplied +amazingly since their importation from Great Britain a few years ago. +The Maori dances are a thing by themselves. They are performed by +warriors and maidens in phalanxes. The men, often stout and sometimes +elderly, who in ordinary life may be lawyers, landlords, doctors, or +retail dealers, put patches of black paint on their faces, array +themselves in tassellated <i>pui-pui</i> mat loin-clothes and arm themselves +with slender feather-tufted spears. Then, bare-footed, bare-legged, +bare-backed, and bare-headed, they line up in battalions, and leap and +stamp, stick their tongues out, grimace, slap their knees, emit volleys +of sharp barking shouts, and thrust and swing their spears, in wonderful +time to the music of full string bands. The ladies, many of them +good-looking, with melting brown eyes, well-developed figures, and +graceful carriage, are more restrained in their performances.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +They are bare-headed, with long waving hair down their backs, kept in +place by a coloured ribbon round the forehead. They may be dressed in +voluminous brown cloaks of soft <i>kiwi</i> feathers, or in loose, +embroidered draperies of every colour, their feet and ankles, sometimes +bare, sometimes encased in high-heeled American shoes and black lace +stockings. They stand or sit in long lines, singing the softest of +crooning songs, the while swaying, posturing, undulating, or +step-dancing in perfect unison, to represent the movement of paddling, +spinning, weaving, swimming, or setting sail. At the same time they +swing white <i>poi</i>-balls, the size of oranges, attached to strings, which +form in their swift gyrations gauzy circles of light around each hand, a +charming performance worthy of Leicester Square.</p> + +<p>In the case of Rotorua ceremonies, performances took place, first on the +lake shore, on ground which emitted clouds of steam in the very face of +the dancers, and afterwards, on a much larger scale, on a wide grassy +plain adjoining, where six thousand Maoris, brought from all parts of +New Zealand, the South Island as well as the North, were encamped in +military bell-tents, a legacy of the war. Here, battalion after +battalion, first of men, then of girls, and finally of the two combined, +performed in quick succession, at least a thousand dancers taking part, +while ten thousand spectators, about half of whom may have been Maoris +or half-castes, and the balance Europeans, looked on and applauded. Here +I suppose if anywhere we saw the pure-blooded Maori, though <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 't'">it</ins> seems a +distinction with little difference. Unlike most Orientals, the children +of mixed ancestry continue the traditions of the pure-breeds, put on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +their clothes, speak their language and boast their ancestry. One of the +most striking of the figures was where the warriors stole out between +ranks of dancing maidens, to take an enemy unawares, who was supposed to +have been beguiled into believing that he had only women to deal with. +Sir James Carrol and the Hon. Mr. A. T. Ngata, both Maori members of the +New Zealand Parliament, and both distinguished speakers, took a +prominent part in the ceremonies.</p> + +<p>The address presented to the Prince by these loyal and attractive people +was characteristically picturesque. It was read, first in English, and +afterwards in Maori, by one of the chiefs, an elderly gentleman of +reverend appearance in fine Kiwi robe, who spoke in a pleasant, +resonant, well-rounded voice. "You bring with you," he said, "memories +of our beloved dead. They live again who strove with you on the fields +of TU in many lands beyond seas. Your presence there endeared you to the +hearts of our warriors. Your brief sojourn here will soften the sorrows +of those whose dear ones have followed the setting sun. Royal son of an +illustrious line, king that is to be, we are proud that you should carry +on the traditions of your race and house. For it is meet that those who +sit on high should turn an equal face to humble as to mighty. Walk, +therefore, among your own people sure of their hearts, fostering therein +the love they bore Queen Victoria and those who came after her. Welcome +and farewell. Return in peace without misgivings, bearing to His Majesty +the King, and to Her Majesty the Queen, the renewal of the oath we swore +to them on this ground a generation ago. The Maori people will be true<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +till death, and so farewell."</p> + +<p>The history of the Maoris is one long record of chivalry and courage, +and their promise is one they will perform.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>IX</h2> + +<h2>NORTH ISLAND</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Among the telegrams which met the Royal train on its way from Auckland +to Rotorua was one of a character which differed from the rest. The +message was addressed to Rt. Hon. William Massey, that embodiment of +notable ability, kindly good sense and unquenchable spirit whom this +Dominion is so fortunate as to have as Prime Minister, who was on the +train. It announced a general railway strike unless certain demands of +drivers and men, some time pending, were agreed to by the Government. It +was in the form of an ultimatum which expired at midnight, an hour which +found the tour at Rotorua. Against the extreme and humiliating public +inconvenience of the moment thus selected must be placed the immediate +offer of the strikers, to complete the schedule of the Royal train, to +take the Prince in fact wherever he wished to go. While the offer was +declined in the main it was accepted as far as a return journey to +Auckland, where the Prince thus spent several unforeseen days while +matters were being adjusted. The time had to be cut out of later +dispositions. It was spent in private engagements, in the much qualified +sense of the word as it applied to any of the Royal arrangements. The +strike was ultimately settled through the efforts of Mr. Massey,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> +who, being denied the service of the railroad, drove several hundred +miles over sodden mountain roads, in the worst of weather, from Rotorua +to Wellington to discuss the matter with the men's leaders there. The +settlement did much credit to the forbearance of both sides. It did not +go into the merits of the immediate question, which was as to the rate +of compensation to be paid to the men in consideration of the increased +cost of living, but provided a tribunal, on which the strikers and the +railway management should be equally represented, with a co-opted +neutral chairman, to report upon the merits of the demand, and suggest +the best way of doing justice to all concerned. The acceptance of this +sensible arrangement was largely aided by the New Zealand Amalgamated +Society of Railway Servants, this important organization putting +pressure upon the drivers and firemen to return to work while the +tribunal was taking evidence. The incident afforded interesting proof, +not only of the confidence inspired by Mr. Massey himself, but also of +the reasonableness of the attitude of labour in this part of the world. +Industrial discontent is a more manageable thing in a country where the +great majority of the men own their homes and the half-acre that +surrounds them. The struggle for better conditions is sweetened by the +air of gardens, and every operative has the interest in the general +prosperity that comes of a private stake in it.</p> + +<p>The Royal party left Auckland in three railway trains, a pilot, a main, +and an emergency, the Prince and staff travelling in the middle one. The +New Zealand Government was represented by Sir William Fraser, Minister +of the Interior, a Highland Scotchman from the South Island.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +Official appointments to accompany the tour were happily made +throughout, but never more than in this instance, where the +extraordinary kindliness and charm of the Minister of the Interior +enhanced the great volume of his experience, to the pleasure and profit +of every member of the party. Another of those present was General Sir +Edward Chaytor, commanding the forces in New Zealand, a soldier whose +world reputation has not in any way interfered with the simplest manner +and the most delighted directness of mind. It was his function to +present to the Prince the military side of New Zealand life, a side +which was represented at every centre visited, alike by surprisingly +large numbers of returned soldiers from the forces which gave such +splendid account of themselves in the great war, and by considerable +bodies of smartly turned-out territorials and cadets. Accompanying +General Chaytor was Colonel Sleeman, also a remarkable personality, to +whose initiative is largely due the system of cadet-training now in +force in New Zealand, a system which is doing wonders in the matter of +infusing the best public-school spirit into previously unkempt national +schoolboys and larrikins, teaching them to play the game, giving them a +pride in themselves, and interesting them in physical culture, and in +the duties of citizenship, so that their parents have become as keen as +themselves that they should go through the courses. Another of the party +was Mr. James Hislop, Permanent Under-Secretary of the Interior, one of +the ablest members of that fine body, the New Zealand civil service, who +organized the arrangements of the tour, and whose irrepressible<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +humour, good fellowship, and infinity of resource, in disposing of what +seemed to most of us an utterly overwhelming burden of work, were a +continual wonder to everybody upon the train. No less important amongst +those outstanding figures of the New Zealand party, was Mr. R. W. +McVilly, General Manager of the railways of the country, a man who with +his predecessor, Mr. E. H. Hiley, has succeeded in doing in New Zealand +what proved impossible, in England and in the United States. Under their +direction the railway system of the Dominion was carried on throughout +the war without break in management and without making any loss. It did +not take travellers long to discover the affection and respect in which +the Director-General was held, not only by his colleagues, but by all +who came in contact with him.</p> + +<p>The British pressmen with the tour were particularly happy in their New +Zealand newspaper associates. Amongst these gentlemen were Professor Guy +Scholefield, who holds the chair of English Literature at the University +of Dunedin and who knows New Zealand inside and out, from the historic +as well as the modern point of view; and Mr. F. H. Morgan, representing +that business-like organization the New Zealand Press Association, a +practical journalist, a helpful colleague, and one of the best of good +fellows.</p> + +<p>Although the main train journey was only decided upon a few hours before +a start was made from Auckland, all the arrangements worked with +extraordinary smoothness, and the number of people assembled at even the +smallest wayside stations to cheer the Prince was astonishing. At +Frankton, the first stopping-place after leaving Auckland, the gathering +around the station consisted largely of the very railway men who had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> +just been on strike. Their reception of the Prince had the special +cordiality that carries a hint of apology. One of their number indeed, +acting as spokesman, explained in a speech which could not be considered +inopportune, how much they all regretted having been the cause of delay +to the Royal tour. At Tekuiti, another small station, a more formal +reception took place, in which some five hundred children, collected +from the schools in the neighbourhood, participated with characteristic +fervour.</p> + +<p>Through the night the Royal train traversed the red-pine Waimarino +forest, mounted two thousand feet up the Raurimu spiral, passed the +still smoking summit of the Ngauruhoe volcano, and emerged at daylight +upon the rolling plains of the rich Taranaki dairying country. Here +pastoral land, though still dotted with the blackened stumps of bygone +forest, is worth to-day anything up to one hundred and fifty pounds +sterling per acre. Thence, passing beneath the snow-streaked cone of the +extinct volcano Mount Egmont, the train rolled out upon the open western +coast, and entered the gorse-encircled city of New Plymouth. Here the +Prince was given a picturesque reception beneath spreading <i>Insignis</i> +pines, in a natural grass-covered amphitheatre, of beautiful Pukikura +park. Conducted by General Melville, commanding the district, he +inspected a large gathering of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and +cadets. He also went through the ranks of masses of school-children, who +waved long wands topped with white and red feathery <i>toi-toi</i> grass, and +sang patriotic songs. In the course of a reply, later on, to a civic +address, read by Mr. F. Bellringer, General Manager of the Borough,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +the Prince referred to the splendid prospects of the north-west coast, +also to its fine war record, adding: "When I look at the development of +this wonderful dairying country, I am amazed at the enterprise and +energy which have achieved so much in little more than two generations."</p> + +<p>It is indeed amazing. Taranaki does much with butter, sending to such a +competitive country as Canada nearly 12,000 cwts. in 1918, and even more +with cheese, producing a particularly delectable Stilton. There are +fifty-seven butter factories and one hundred and eleven devoted to +cheese. To carve these conditions out of virgin forest in two +generations is a feat that well deserved its recognition.</p> + +<p>The route thereafter lay through a land of spacious, green sheep-downs, +overlooking a blue, sun-lit sea, as idyllic as a pasture of the +Eclogues. On the way, at Stratford, Hawera and Patea, the Prince +received and replied to addresses and inspected gatherings of returned +soldiers, sailors, nurses, and cadets, besides incredible numbers of +fat, red-cheeked children, assembled with their teachers to do him +honour. Speaking at Hawera, the scene of fighting in days gone by, +between <i>Pakeha</i>—white strangers—and Maori natives, "Nothing," +said His Royal Highness, "has impressed me more in New Zealand than the +evidence I have found everywhere that Pakeha and Maori are now one +people in devotion to the Dominion, the Empire and the King."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo064.png" width="600" height="397" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />WELLINGTON: A CANOE IN THE PETONE PAGEANT<br /> +<br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo064a.png" width="600" height="459" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />"THE MAORI PEOPLE WILL BE TRUE TILL DEATH"<br /> +<br /></span> +</div> + +<p>Proceeding afterwards to Wanganui, a more imposing welcome awaited him, +ten thousand enthusiastic people being found assembled in a big +grass-covered stadium. Here, some of the territorials he inspected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +insisted upon drawing his motor-car round the grounds. In the course of +a reply to an address read by the Mayor, the Prince put into words what +was so plain in his actions. "I value," he said, "more than anything the +opportunity this journey gives me of making the acquaintance of the +people of New Zealand, many of whose gallant sons I knew on active +service in the great war." A visit followed to the Wanganui college, a +fine institution where three hundred of the sons of the settlers of the +Dominion are receiving up-to-date education upon British public-school +lines. Later in the evening the Prince attended a concert, also a +democratic supper-party of the heartiest description, held in enormous +marquees, at which three thousand people were present. The Prince and +his staff were served at a table on a raised platform in the middle of +the biggest of the marquees, so that as many people as possible might +see him, a distinction which apparently caused His Royal Highness no +loss of appetite.</p> + +<p>From Wanganui the Prince motored twenty-five miles through undulating +fields of grass, turnips and rape, alternating with patches of yellow +gorse, the last introduced from the old country by sentimental but +ill-advised settlers, and now a most troublesome field-pest, special +legislation having had to be introduced requiring owners of land, under +penalty, to prevent its spreading. Crossing the wooded valleys of the +beautiful Wanganui and Turakina rivers, the Ruahine mountains shining +through the morning mists upon the left, while spacious sheep-farms +sloped seawards upon the right, the Prince reached the township of +Marton, where the usual inspections and addresses took place. Thence +the party started by train to cross the country to the east coast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +port of Napier. Receptions were held, <i>en route</i>, at the townships of +Feilding and Palmerston-North. In the course of the day the Prince +received a number of presents, including, from Maori chiefs, an ancient +and possibly unique greenstone <i>mere</i> or battle-axe, and a fine +<i>Wharikiwoka</i>—a mat-cloak lined with feathers. At Palmerston-North +there was handed into his keeping the shot-torn colours actually carried +by the third British Foot Guards at the battle of Alexandria as along +ago as 1801. These colours had been handed down, from generation to +generation, by New Zealand descendants of Colonel Samuel Dalrymple, who +commanded this distinguished regiment in that engagement. They were +presented to the Prince by Mrs. J. H. Hankins, <i>née</i> Dalrymple. The +colours were said to be the only ones, belonging to a Guards regiment, +hitherto preserved elsewhere than in the British islands.</p> + +<p>Leaving Palmerston-North, the Prince proceeded through the gorge of the +rushing, turgid Manawatu river, alighting at the small wayside station +of Woodville, where a number of the inhabitants had assembled and where +he shook hands with a territorial officer, who, with the gay adventurous +spirit of the Dominion, had taken considerable risks in keeping pace +with the Royal train in a motor-car all the way from Marton, though part +of the route was along an unfenced winding mountain road on the side of +a cliff where the slightest obstruction or miscalculation might have +hurled the car and its occupants into the torrent below.</p> + +<p>From Woodville the Prince went on, through wide grass-covered plains, +dotted with pleasant homesteads, standing amidst thousands of browsing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +sheep, along the broad, shallow, shingly reaches of the Waipawa river, +and past sunny apple-orchards, and coppices of oak, poplar and pine, at +times skirting breezy uplands where he saw shepherds and their families, +often from long distances in the interior waiting to cheer the train.</p> + +<p>The arrival at Napier, on the east coast of the island, was late in the +afternoon, in threatening weather. Yet the entire town of twelve +thousand inhabitants seemed to have assembled in the streets, and the +turn-out of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and cadets, at the +beautiful Nelson Park, on the seashore, where a reception was held and +an address presented by the Mayor, Mr. Vigor Brown, was most impressive. +In the course of his reply, in this centre, the Prince once more +referred to the quick coming prosperity of the land he had been +traversing. "It is amazing," he said, "to think that all the homely, +happy country I have seen on my journey here has been cleared, +cultivated and civilized in the life of two generations. The measure of +that splendid achievement is well reflected in this flourishing port and +town."</p> + +<p>The following morning the Prince was early afoot, yet the inhabitants +made a fine showing in the streets, as the procession of motor-cars +passed through to the station, where the Royal train was waiting to +convey the party on the long run southwards to Wellington, the capital. +The weather had cleared in the night and it was a lovely autumn morning +as we skirted the waters of Hawkes Bay, which washed against the steep, +white cliffs of Kidnappers' Island, still the home of thousands of +strong-winged gannets the size of geese. Arrived at Hastings, a solid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +market town of ten thousand inhabitants, the Prince was conducted, +through lanes of cheering people, to the racecourse. Here yet another +large gathering of returned men, also territorials, cadets, nurses, and +children, had assembled, and yet another civic address was presented and +replied to. Similar experiences awaited the party at further +stopping-places, including Waipukurau, Dannevirke, Woodville, and +Pahiatua—the "place of God"—the number of the motor-cars, +drawn up in the rear of the crowds, testifying to the prosperity of +the farmer-folk, many of whom had been making fortunes out of +the high prices of the mutton, wool and dairy-produce they raise. At +Dannevirke—Dane Church—the Scandinavian origin of the +township was reflected, not only in the name, but in the faces of +whiskered vikings who were to be seen amongst those who came forward to +shake hands with the Prince. They contrasted quite obviously with the +conventional Anglo-Saxons around them, and recalled in their persons the +fact that the settlement of Dannevirke was originally made by a +ship-load of government-aided immigrants from Schleswig, Holstein.</p> + +<p>After leaving Dannevirke, the Prince took a turn on the foot-plate of +the engine of the train, which he drove at something like fifty miles an +hour to Woodville, where he had halted the day before. At Woodville the +track turned southwards through wilder country, including a certain +amount of still uncleared bush. Even here, however, the land is being +opened up, and I heard of farms changing hands at as much as seventy +pounds per acre. As the afternoon progressed halts were made at various +stations, including Featherston, where the Prince was received by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +cheering crowds from a military training camp near by. At dusk the train +skirted the wide Wairarapa—lake of shining water—where wild +swans still breed in some numbers. Here we seemed to have reached the +end of the track, as high hills closed in on either side, and there was +no sign of a tunnel. The big single engine, however, was replaced by +three smaller ones of special make for mountain climbing, one of them +being attached at either end of the train and the third in the middle. A +start was then made up a zigzag track consisting of three rails, the +third so fixed in the middle, between the other two, that pulley wheels +beneath the body of the engines can get a purchase below it, thus +completely wedging the train and preventing its too sudden descent in +case of accident. Slowly then the train crawled up the gradient, which, +in places, is no less than one in fifteen. On the way we passed heavy +timber-fences erected to break the force of the wind, which has been +known so strong, at times on this part of the line, as to overturn a +train. In the darkness we crossed the Rimutaka—ridge of fallen +trees—and slid smoothly down to the other side into the rich Hutt +valley in which Wellington stands.</p> + +<p>A fairy city of lights, outlining spires, roofs and street lines, lay by +reflection in the black water of a broad still harbour, as the train +skirted the low coast of Petone, landing-place of the first white +settlers, eventually passing through extensive suburbs and coming to a +standstill in the station of Wellington. Here the reception was a climax +to the demonstrations along the journey from Auckland. Mayor Luke, +supported by the city councillors, in ermine and gold chains, received<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +the Prince, as he alighted from the train. Mr. Massey, and other members +of the Dominion Government, were waiting at the entrance. Outside, one +of the smartest captain's guards-of-honour imaginable was standing to +attention, with band and colours. Beyond, restrained by a rope barrier, +an enormous crowd cheered and cheered. The eye travelled over the heads +of the nearer people, and then further away, and there was no thinning +off. One then began to realize that one was looking up a broad street +which climbed a hill, and that the entire hill was a palpitating mass of +shouting humanity, dimly seen in the half-light of the illuminations.</p> + +<p>Eventually the Royal procession got off in motor-cars, which took an +hour to traverse the two miles of decorated route to Government House, +where the Prince was to stay, so dense was the crowd along the route, so +anxious were the people to get near him. There was no bad crushing, +however, and nothing could exceed the good temper of the shouting, +flag-flapping, clapping, laughing men, women and children, who pressed +upon the motor-cars, formed a solid mass to the walls of substantial +business houses on either hand, and crowded every window, balcony and +roof commanding a view from above.</p> + +<p>Similar scenes marked subsequent days of the Prince's visit to +Wellington. Proceeding to Parliament buildings on the morning after he +arrived, the pressure along the route was extraordinary. The town hall, +where addresses were presented, on the way, was filled by all the most +distinguished people of the country. The platform was occupied by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +Members of the Legislature, headed by the Prime Minister, and including +the Leader of the Opposition, the Mayors of the principal cities, and +other representatives from all parts of New Zealand.</p> + +<p>Proposing the Prince's health, at the official luncheon later in the +day, Mr. Massey, speaking in his capacity of Prime Minister, said +everybody in New Zealand took personal happiness and satisfaction in the +magnificent reception the Prince had had at all the centres in the North +Island. "And I want to tell him," he continued, "that his experiences in +the North Island will be repeated in the South."</p> + +<p>One of the expeditions made from Wellington was across the harbour to +Petone, where a well-staged pageant was held representing the landing of +Captain Cook and his fellow adventurers from the barque <i>Endeavour</i> in +1779, also that of the Reverend Samuel Marsden and other missionaries +from the merchant-ship <i>Tory</i> thirty-five years later. Naked warriors in +war-canoes escorted each of the boat processions to the beach, and +painted Maori chiefs received the white strangers hospitably on the +sandy shore.</p> + +<p>The occasion of the pageant was taken with happy appropriateness to +present the Prince with samples of the finished product of the great +industry with which the descendants of the early settlers have endowed +New Zealand. The articles selected were rugs of beautiful softness and +delightful warmth, made of wool grown in the interior, and carded, spun, +dyed, and woven in mills close to the beach where the original +missionaries landed. "A field which the Lord hath blessed" in every +sense of the term.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<p>Petone is the parent of the capital city of Wellington +where the Governor, Legislative Council +and elected House of Representatives together +make up the "General Assembly" which governs +New Zealand.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="X" id="X"></a>X</h2> + +<h2>SOUTH ISLAND</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The still, crisp, autumn morning of the 22nd of May brought the <i>Renown</i> +into the silver inland sea of Charlotte Sound, with sunny hills sloping +to the water's edge on either side—a great grey bird she looked, +reflected in a jade-framed mirror. Rounding a steep guarding islet, the +big ship anchored in view of the inner harbour, the pleasant little +red-roofed whaling station of Picton climbing up the slope at the +further end, the houses gay with familiar flowers, and homely with +pecking fowls, amenities which one does not associate with the wild work +of the whaler. The industry as a matter of fact has declined from the +status of its early days, though last year the blubber of forty-eight +"humpbacks" was brought into port.</p> + +<p>The entire population—typical British folk of any country town in +England—had assembled and gave the Prince a rousing welcome with +the usual address. From Picton the route was by train through a rich +pastoral plain, past Tuamarina, scene of a long-past tragedy in New +Zealand history, where a misunderstanding resulted in whites being +massacred by their Maori neighbours, one of those lamentable episodes +which the now united Dominion is advisedly engaged in forgetting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<p>At Blenheim, a prosperous township, eighteen miles from Picton, which +was the next stopping-place, the train was exchanged for motors, and a +visit was paid to the local racecourse, where the inhabitants of the +town of Blenheim and most of the surrounding country had come together. +Amongst them was a fine gathering of returned sailors, soldiers +and cadets, also some fifty Maoris with painted faces, dressed in +feather-covered mats, who gave one of their grave, shouting, stamping, +grimacing national <i>hakas</i> in honour of the Royal guest.</p> + +<p>From Blenheim the party started on a seventy-mile motor-drive to Nelson, +an expedition enlivened by similar scenes, though the solemn gaieties +of the Maoris did not occur again. The road, which was of macadam in +excellent repair, ran first through the green, open valley of the +Pelorus river, the fields dotted with sheep, with many a row of tall +poplar trees, yellowing in the still autumn air. Wooded hills closed +in, on either side, as the cars progressed, until we found ourselves +speeding along a winding, unfenced shelf on the side of a precipice, +primeval forest covering the sides of the gorge, to which the procession +clung, like a string of flies to a window-pane, as it swung round +corners, often with a wall of rock on one side and a sheer drop of +hundreds of feet upon the other, a few inches of macadamized shelf all +that interposed between the outer wheels and eternity.</p> + +<p>The driver of the Prince's car, a grey-headed Anglo-Saxon, was descended +from men who had driven mail coaches along this road seventy years ago, +when the route was anything but the tourist trip it has become to-day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +The Prince was shown corner after corner where early settlers and their +vehicles had gone over the edge, to be gathered together at the bottom +in an advanced state of disunion. He heard also the oft-told tale of the +Maungatapu highwaymen, white desperadoes, who once made these Rai and +Wangamoa hills their home, until they were rounded up and hanged by +indignant gold-miners and settlers for iniquities which included the +murdering of a wayfarer, after stripping him of his purse, though all +that it contained was a solitary shilling. No allowance seemed to have +been made by his avengers for a certain natural disappointment. From the +Rai and <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Wanganoa'">Wangamoa</ins> highlands the road led downwards, through a gradually +flattening land of apple-trees, still laden with masses of enormous +yellow and red fruit, past hundreds of acres of bare poles, where hops +had recently been reaped, amongst fields of peach trees set in ordered +ranks, through villages of red-roofed, verandahed wooden houses, where +well-dressed women and extraordinarily chubby and sunburnt children +strewed the chrysanthemums of autumn as the Prince went by. The white +macadam of the country ultimately gave place to the dark asphalt of the +town. Tram-lines appeared in the track, and the procession found itself +amongst hurrahing crowds in Nelson city.</p> + +<p>Nelson is built round a central hill. Driving up the main street, the +Prince was in a lane of people, a waving mass of union jacks extending +up the business street on either side, while in front was a natural +grand-stand surmounted by the Gothic windows of a pink, wooden structure +which rose out of the top of a variegated pyramid and was the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +Cathedral. It looked as if balanced upon a hunched-up, gaily-coloured +Paisley shawl. As we approached, the base resolved itself into +school-children in white, soldiers and cadets in khaki, with a phalanx +of returned men in their habit as they lived. A grey stone platform, +with steps leading up to it, was occupied by Nelson's officials, one of +whom read an address of welcome. The remainder of the variegated colour +scheme seen from the bottom of the street was due to the costumes of +ladies who stood so close to one another that no peep of the green +background came through.</p> + +<p>Here the Prince performed the usual ceremonies that awaited him. He +inspected guards-of-honour, clasped the hands of returned soldiers and +pinned on their coats decorations won at the front. He also expressed to +the Mayor and the crowd thanks for the reception and for the loyal +sentiments of the address, which would be communicated to His Majesty +the King, as well as hearty appreciation of the wonders of the country, +and of the good service of its people in the war, with sympathy for +those who had been disabled or had lost friends or relations. He +demanded a whole holiday for the school-children, with the immense +approval of the beneficiaries. The National Anthem was played and +everybody went off to dinner.</p> + +<p>On the following and subsequent days very similar experiences were +encountered. The route from Nelson, after leaving the level country +where more receptions were held at wayside townships, was along the +steep rocky upper gorge of the Buller river, a clear stream which flows +in a series of cascades through a narrow winding cleft in the +mountains. The slope on either side is covered with dense forest of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +tree ferns and birches, broken by areas where the undergrowth has been +cut down and fired. Quantities of blackened tree-trunks and half-burnt +logs, upon a carpet of newly sprouted grass, told of the conversion +of the impenetrable primeval forest into productive dairying +fields—grass-seed having only to be scattered broadcast over the +ashes after a shower to bring a quick and copious emerald crop.</p> + +<p>The way grass develops in New Zealand is a continual wonder. The winters +are so mild, and the rainfall so abundant, that growth goes on right +through the year. Maturity comes so rapidly that it is said to be quite +a common thing for the farmer to plough up pasture and re-sow it simply +in order to get rid of weeds, a heavy hay-crop being reaped the very +next season. Large areas of permanent, original pasture were also seen, +especially in the Southern Island—tussock grass, which, as its +name suggests, grows in knobby tufts, but is not on that account to be +despised as fodder, enormous numbers of sheep and cattle growing fat +enough to kill for the market without any other nourishment. Turnips are +raised, to help out the grass in the winter months, but this is only on +a comparatively small scale. The greater part of the stock is entirely +grass-fed. Lambing, calving and milking take place in the open, and +steers go straight to the packing establishments, without previously +seeing the inside of a building of any kind. This accounts for the +profits that are being made out of sheep-farming, stock-raising and +dairying in New Zealand, in spite of the enormous prices paid for land +which, in good districts, is now changing hands at figures ranging up to +£170 per acre.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Prince learnt, also, in his long drives through the forest, of the +nature of the timber; of the virtues of the tawny-foliaged <i>Rimu</i>, or +red pine, used for the interiors of houses; of the light, easily worked +<i>Kahikatea</i>, or white pine, for which such large demand has sprung up in +New Zealand and Australia for making packing-cases for butter, that +fears are felt lest forests, hitherto considered inexhaustible, should +become worked out; also of the <i>Matai</i>, or silver pine, which seems to +last for ever, even when exposed on such hard service as that of railway +sleepers, without any creosoting or other artificial protection.</p> + +<p>About noon, the cars emerged upon an open valley, and the Prince was +given a public reception at Murchison, a village of wooden houses, which +were found in holiday array, the decorations including masses of holly +in the fullest Christmas glory of ripe scarlet berries, a curious +contemporary of the orchards, still loaded with unpicked apples, that we +had seen in the Nelson valley only a few hours before. In the Murchison +district alluvial gold-washing still goes on, but it is only a small +survival of what once was a flourishing industry, the yellow metal that +filled the west coast with diggers, fifty years ago, having almost +entirely given out.</p> + +<p>Beyond Murchison, the gorges again contracted. The river became a white +torrent, rushing through a dark, winding channel, hedged with big, +grey rocks, above which rose sage-green, forested mountains. About +six in the evening we emerged on the Inangahua—"mother of +whitebait"—tributary. Here the valley widened out, and we saw a +wonderful west-coast sunset. The mountains took on vivid aquamarine blue +and imperial purple, shading into palest pink, as they faced towards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +the light or away from it. Against this background, yellow-frosted +poplars and scarlet-leaved wild cherries stood out in sharpest contrast, +the whole, with a pearly sky, producing an effect of exquisite fantasy. +A soft brown owl, fluttering into our staring faces, recalled the fact +that night had come, and that shelter was still far off.</p> + +<p>The Prince traversed the Inangahua marshes in the dark, reaching the +west-coast township of Reefton late at night. The streets, nevertheless, +were thronged with people. Illuminations and fireworks were in full +swing, and His Royal Highness had a reception in no way inferior to his +daylight greetings elsewhere. At Reefton he was in Westland of the warm +heart, the Wales of New Zealand, a land of collieries, lumbering, +gold-mining, and fishing, home of the late Richard Seddon, whose +eloquence did so much, in the long years of his Prime Ministership, to +bind New Zealand in that close alliance with Great Britain which bore +such gallant fruit when the great call came.</p> + +<p>With Reefton I should class Inangahua, Greymouth, Westport, and last, +but most important of them all, Hokitika, head-quarters of the province, +which is represented in the New Zealand Government by Mr. Thomas Seddon, +son of the late Prime Minister, and one of the first members of +Parliament to volunteer for active service when the war began. In all of +these centres the Prince was most warmly received, Hokitika particularly +distinguishing itself by the size of its gatherings, and the good taste +bestowed on the decorations of its streets.</p> + +<p>The Prince's journey from Reefton to Westport was by motor through the +lower gorges of the Buller river, where the scenery was again<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> +magnificent. Much of the route was along a narrow winding shelf, a +precipice dropping to the water beneath, while above the rocks overhung +the road, sometimes, as at a spot appropriately named the Devil's Eye, +to the extent of completely over-arching. The steep mountain-sides +around were covered with dense vegetation, gaunt Rimu trees smothered in +the embrace of flame-flowered Rata vines, and green lance-leaved +<i>kiakia</i> creepers, with a thick undergrowth of tree-ferns standing erect +like pirouetting dancers in stiff green skirts and long black legs, +amongst a lesser crowd of gorse and bracken. The silence of the gorge +was broken only by the ripple of water and the sweet flute-notes of grey +Tui birds, a delicate contrast with the clangour of the church bells, +rung in honour of the Prince's visit, when the procession of motor-cars +emerged upon the open coast, and reached the mining township of +Westport. Here the reception was on the level, within sight of an +inclined road down which is brought what claims to be the best admiralty +coal in the world. This coal is mined high up in the hills above +Westport, and was burnt upon H.M.S. <i>Calliope</i> when she thrilled the +world by beating out of the hurricane off Samoa in 1899. The Prince +returned in the evening to Hokitika. In an open square in this city next +morning, where the snows of Mount Cook shone out on the horizon, he was +presented with a digger's leather bag containing nuggets of west-coast +gold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo080.png" width="600" height="412" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />WESTPORT CHILDREN: A TUMULT OF FLAGS AND FLOWERS<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo080a.png" width="600" height="441" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />DUNEDIN'S WELCOME<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p>From Hokitika the route was by train, via the labour-controlled township +of Greymouth, and up the fine Brunner valley, passing a number of +winding-shafts of mines producing good steam-coal, where miners were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +making £2 5<i>s.</i> daily, and more of them were urgently needed. In the +afternoon Otira was reached, where New Zealand's longest railway tunnel, +which when finished will complete the hitherto broken connexion across +the island, was in active course of construction. Here the Prince left +the railway and travelled partly by a four-horsed coach, and partly on +foot, amidst heights and glaciers, over the magnificent Arthur's pass, +which overlies the tunnel, itself two thousand feet above sea level. The +tunnel is one of the big engineering achievements of the century. It is +five and a quarter miles long, and has been so accurately laid out that +when, a few months since, the excavations from the two ends met in the +middle, they were out only by three-quarters of an inch in alignment and +one and a half inches in level, a minuteness of error of which Mr. +Holmes, Engineer-in-Chief, and his technical staff may rightly be proud.</p> + +<p>Cheers, every few minutes, from people it was too dark to see, broke in +upon the rattle of the Royal train speeding to reach Christchurch by +dinner-time. Jolts at intervals informed us that we were crossing +sidings in the suburbs of a considerable city. Presently light shone +into the windows from outside, and we came to a standstill in a railway +station that might have been that of Oxford. Upon a red carpet, +stretched from the entrance to where the Prince's saloon drew up, was +standing Mayor Thacker, with ermine, chain and cocked hat, also members +of the corporation, waiting to welcome the Royal guest. By the time one +could get through the throng upon the platform from the front of the +train, the Prince, who was in the rear where a lane had been kept, was +inspecting a captain's guard of men and colours in the presence of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +the dense, cheering crowd that pressed on the rope-barriers. A +procession followed, through two miles of decorated, illuminated, +cheering, flag-waving streets, the route kept with difficulty by police +and territorials. The cars soon separated from one another in the press. +Those who were towards the tail of the procession lost sight of the +Prince. Small boys waved paper flags in their faces, and had to be +discouraged from climbing on the radiator. Larrikins decided that one +correspondent was the Prince's doctor and christened him "Pills." +Another, the substantial representative of the "Daily Telegraph," was +found to resemble Mr. Massey, and was cheered as "Bill." Presently the +procession came to a standstill altogether, the crowd being squeezed +tight up all round, in front, as well as on the steps and mud-guards. +Horn-tooting and endeavours to move forward an inch at a time, coupled +with the vigorous assistance of the police, gradually got us on the move +again, and amid a din of laughing and cheering we saw the Prince being +got out of his car and carried into the club where he was to stay, to +reappear a few moments later on the balcony and wave acknowledgments to +the people, by this time squeezed solid once more.</p> + +<p>Similar scenes occurred on the following day, the same cheerful, +friendly, British crowd assembling in the streets and blocking the wide +Latimer Square, where the Prince received a number of formal addresses, +inspected a fine body of boy-scouts, and was serenaded, first in Welsh, +and afterwards in Gaelic, by groups of nice-looking girls in the +quaintness of chimney-pot hats and kilts. Proceeding afterwards to +Hagley park, the Prince reviewed some four thousand territorials, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +shook hands with two thousand returned men. Later in the evening he held +an informal levée at the civic hall, where he shook hands with another +two thousand people. By this time, if there is a scientific way of +accomplishing the gesture of friendship, His Royal Highness had probably +learned it.</p> + +<p>Christchurch is the third biggest city of New Zealand. A larger +proportion of the inhabitants is said to be of English extraction than +in any other city of the world outside the British islands. Certainly it +is one of the most home-like places we saw upon the tour with its +well-paved, well-lighted streets, fine business quarter, and pleasant +residential suburbs full of comfortable houses, each standing in its +own grounds. In Christchurch clear water courses down the gutter on +one side of many of the streets. This is from subterranean springs, +tapped by artesian borings, by means of which the entire city is +supplied. The water is supposed to be derived from the snows of the +southern New Zealand Alps as they soak into the valley of the +Waimakariri—"freezing water"—river which flows into the +Canterbury plain.</p> + +<p>A fine harbour, with water so deep that even the <i>Renown</i> was able to +lie alongside the wharf, exists eight miles off, at Lyttleton. Until one +goes over the ground it seems strange that a large city should have been +built so far away as eight miles from the harbour connected with it. The +lie of the hills explains this however. The harbour of Lyttleton is so +hedged in by steep slopes that it has been considered impossible to +build a city around it, and Christchurch occupies the nearest level +ground across the range. Connexion is facilitated by a mile-long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +railway tunnel, one of the oldest undertakings of its kind in New +Zealand.</p> + +<p>Although so close to the hills, Christchurch stands upon almost +absolutely level ground, a corner indeed of the big Canterbury plain, +<i>par excellence</i> the farming country of the Dominion. The city contains +cold-storage plant, a biscuit factory, and wool and hide establishments, +all of which proved their Imperial value during the war. It also +possesses one of the best high schools in the country, run on the lines +of a British public school. Being also the distributing centre for a +large and flourishing farming community, Christchurch is going ahead +rapidly, and has an excellent future before it, its south-of-England +climate making it a favourite place of residence.</p> + +<p>Farming is not in New Zealand an occupation penalized by the dread of +hardship or burden as one is apt to find it elsewhere, largely because +of the real love the New Zealander has for the land. The Mayor of one of +the larger cities we visited in the Northern Island, himself a +prosperous wholesale grocer, told me that neither of his two sons, when +they returned to New Zealand from France, would look at his business, +though he had kept it going longer than he would otherwise have done, +with the express purpose of handing it on to them, there being no one +else in his family to whom to leave it. They both insisted upon being +set up as farmers. The reason they gave was that farming life was +pleasanter and less exacting than any kind of business, and this +although they had, with farming, to begin all over again, whereas in the +wholesale grocery trade they had a long established and flourishing +concern ready to step into.</p> + +<p>The fifteen-year-old son of a prominent official said to his mother, +who passed on the irreverent observation to me, "Isn't father a loony<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +to do office work when he might have a farm of his own?" The boy's mind +was typical. I met refined women who said they wouldn't live anywhere in +the world but on a farm, and never once did I come across anyone who was +on the land and wanted to get off it. This attitude of mind has the +qualification that it is sheep and cattle-farming that is referred to, +and not dairy-farming, which is infinitely more exacting, though, at +present prices, and especially since the discovery of the possibilities +of the dried milk-trade, definitely more profitable. This is because the +sheep and cattle-farmer is not continually tied, and, while he has to +work hard at times, can also often get away, whereas the dairy-farmer +must be on hand all the year round, to see that the milking is attended +to, and that the milk is promptly disposed of at the creameries, of +which numbers are springing up, mostly run, upon a co-operative basis, +by groups of farmers themselves.</p> + +<p>This passion of the New Zealander for the land is a trait of the most +far-reaching significance. It accounts for the largeness of the rural, +as opposed to the urban, population in this Dominion. It has much to do, +also, with the splendid physique of the average New Zealander, and the +amazing healthfulness and longevity he appears to enjoy. This applies +especially to the middle classes, amongst whom there is extraordinary +immunity from such city diseases as consumption. The death-rate from +tuberculosis of New Zealand is less than half that of England and Wales. +It affects also the whole political outlook of the Dominion. The farmer +everywhere tends to be conservative in his views, for he has a stake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +in the country. His farm may be small or large. The individual holding, +on the average, is probably not more than from thirty to eighty acres, +an area which even the most unskilled of labourers may hope, in the end, +to own; and one which, under the favourable agricultural and climatic +conditions prevailing, is sufficient to keep both the man himself and +his family. The number of holdings is therefore rapidly increasing, and +the effect which this has upon the whole political atmosphere is +incalculable. + +Nominally, the Government of the day may be Conservative or it may be +Liberal, but the voter's choice is one of men, rather than of policy. +Labour itself, as has already been pointed out, has become conservative. +It thus comes about that, in spite of the possession of both manhood +suffrage and womanhood suffrage, there is probably no country in the +world less open to subversive social theories than is New Zealand.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XI" id="XI"></a>XI</h2> + +<h2>ENTERPRISE IN NEW ZEALAND</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">It is impossible to travel through New Zealand and to meet the men it +sends into public life, without being impressed by the high character, +moderation and conservativeness which characterize politics in this +Dominion.</p> + +<p>There is no country where the spirit of live and let live is more fully +operative, none where charges of political corruption are less common, +and none where the spirit of co-operation for public ends is more +general. The "ins" at present call themselves <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Reformerst'">Reformers</ins>, he "outs" +Liberals, but, so far as I have been able to make out, Mr. Massey's +Government retains its majority far more on account of the popularity of +himself and his colleagues than because the general policy for which +they stand differs very materially from that which would be adopted if +Sir Joseph Ward and his Liberal supporters were to return to power. In +consequence, again, of practically all voters having a stake in the +country, of one kind or another, whether in the form of house-property, +land or money, the administration they elect is intensely individualistic, +and probably there is no spot on earth where property is more respected, +or personal rights more secure.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p> + +<p>The financial position of the Dominion is also relatively good, for +although New Zealand's public debt bears a proportion to its population +not far different from the corresponding proportion in England, there +are two factors which make the situation of the Dominion definitely more +favourable. One of these is the larger potential margin of taxability in +New Zealand, owing to the greater individual prosperity of its +inhabitants and the extent of its still undeveloped resources. The other +is that so much of New Zealand's public debt has been invested in +remunerative public works. Out of a total debt of £194,000,000 no less +than £40,000,000 has been put into the acquisition or construction of +the three thousand five hundred miles of railway existing in the +country, an investment which itself pays the whole of the interest +charges concerned. Indeed, at present rates for labour and materials, +this happy country possesses a property worth probably more than twice +what it has cost to obtain.</p> + +<p>The railway factor in New Zealand is thus a very important one. It is +one also of special interest, as the New Zealand Government not only +owns but manages the whole of the lines, an arrangement not found in +other parts of the world to conduce to either efficiency or economy in +working. It seemed so impossible to believe that a democracy could be +keeping politics out of business that I fear I asked a great many very +impertinent questions on the subject of political graft in connexion +with railways. The map of New Zealand offered an invitation to +inquisitiveness. It showed that the country possesses a remarkably large +number of small unconnected railway lines running inland from the +various ports. Even to-day there is no complete through line in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +South Island, though progress is being made in linking up branches to +obtain it. One was at first inclined to attribute this state of things +to political pressure brought to bear upon the Government to supply +individual political constituents with more than their share of +transport facilities at the expense of the general traffic requirements +of the country. On going over the ground, however, two perfectly +innocent reasons leapt to defend the lines. The first is that in a +country as well supplied as is New Zealand with harbours round the +coasts, the natural main artery of traffic is by sea and not overland. +The second is that the mountain backbone of New Zealand is so tremendous +that the cost of through railways which, owing to the lie of the land, +must necessarily cross this backbone is enormous. This is exemplified by +the stupendous works, culminating in a five-mile tunnel, now under +construction to link the west coast with the east in the South Island. +The same applies to the North Island, it being impossible to traverse +the central railway from Auckland to Wellington without being impressed +by the difficulties that have had to be overcome, alike on the Raurimu +spiral in the middle, and at the famous one-in-thirteen incline near the +southern terminus.</p> + +<p>Mistakes have, no doubt, been made sometimes, and it is quite possible +that in some cases local influence may have bettered public utility, +both in the routes chosen for new lines, and in the order of their +construction. Upon the whole, however, the Public Works Department of +the New Zealand Government, which is responsible for the building of the +railways, is to be most warmly congratulated upon the lay-out as well +as upon the standard of excellence attained in the matter of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +work. The three-feet-six-inch gauge adopted in New Zealand may possibly +have to be changed eventually to the standard four-feet-eight-inch gauge +in use in Europe and America. The decision to adopt the narrow gauge, +however, was come to at a time when there was much to recommend the +selection, since it enabled railway facilities to be afforded very much +sooner than would have been possible had the more expensive standard +gauge been chosen.</p> + +<p>The New Zealand Government has also pursued a sound policy in doing +renovations, even where they have involved considerable structural +improvements, out of revenue. I was informed that original cost has, all +along, been replaced out of working expenses, where changes in the lines +have been made on capital account, and that since about 1907 all +relaying of lines and replacing of bridges and rolling-stock has been +charged to working expenses. Again, a considerable length of line has +been relaid each year, with heavy rails and new sleepers. The people of +New Zealand in consequence now own the entire railway system of their +country at a cost far below its present market value, and that too in a +state of structural efficiency, which, especially after five years of a +war to which the railways sent seven thousand of their trained men, is +very remarkable. The Royal train could testify to that, running as it +did over difficult country, from one end of New Zealand to the other, at +a pace which was seldom less than forty, and sometimes went as high as +sixty miles an hour, fast travelling on a narrow gauge anywhere.</p> + +<p>The railways are under a general manager responsible to a +minister-in-charge, at present the Prime Minister, and independent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +of the Public Works Department, whose responsibilities end with +construction. In order to minimize political interference with traffic +charges, a rule is enforced that all rates must be published, thereby +facilitating discussion of them. No special local tariff also can be +sanctioned without public notice being first given. All rates are thus +subject to criticism in Parliament. Again, at present, ninety per cent. +of the traffic of the country, including both passengers and goods, is +carried on a flat-rate basis applicable to all lines, and all places. Of +the remaining ten per cent., all but a small proportion is carried on +concession rates designed to help the development of backward areas, it +being recognized that the railways are only adjuncts to the opening up +of the country and its resources. The fractional proportion which +remains is carried at special enhanced rates, but this does not affect +the general position, as it applies only to a few isolated sections of +not more than twenty miles apiece, where construction has been unusually +expensive, and where high rates have been adopted to cover interest on +the cost.</p> + +<p>A further safeguard is provided by the fact that a rate can only be +changed on the recommendation of the general manager, who is a member of +the public service, and therefore debarred from taking part in politics.</p> + +<p>Very much the same safeguards apply to the appointments. The personnel +of the railways in New Zealand is permanent, no new Government having so +far ventured to make any wholesale changes. The great majority of the +men now in the service have begun at the bottom, either as unskilled +apprentices or as cadets admitted after passing a qualifying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +examination. I was unable to hear of either promotions or fresh +appointments for political reasons.</p> + +<p>That the above are real, and not merely theoretical conditions, is +strikingly shown by the financial results obtained. The dominant fact is +that, whereas in the United States and in England, Government control of +railways has been accompanied by heavy loss during the war, in New +Zealand the railways have remained on a paying basis throughout, though +the war rise in New Zealand traffic-rates has only been twelve and a +half per cent. in the case of passengers, and twenty-one per cent. in +that of goods, as compared with from fifty to seventy per cent. in the +case of the railways in Great Britain. At the same time the basic wage +for the employees has been increased in New Zealand by thirty-three per +cent., to which eight per cent. has recently been added, making a total +wage rise on New Zealand railways of forty-one per cent.</p> + +<p>As regards the cost of the carriage of goods on New Zealand railways, as +compared with British, the claim is made by the New Zealand railway +authorities that their rates are the lower. I was unable to obtain any +conclusive evidence upon this point, during the short time available, +owing to the difficulty of extracting average figures capable of being +fairly compared. As regards passenger rates, I understand that the +present New Zealand flat-rate is twopence per mile for "upper class" +passengers, and one and one-third pence per mile for "lower class," +rates which certainly compare not unfavourably with those obtaining in +England.</p> + +<p>The gross annual revenue of New Zealand railways is now about five and +three-quarter million sterling per annum. Of this sum two million is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +allotted to payment of interest at four per cent. upon the forty million +sterling of capital cost. The balance of three and three-quarter million +goes to working expenses, which before the war averaged sixty-four per +cent. of gross revenue, and are now sixty-six per cent.</p> + +<p>Government goods consignments are carried at full rates, and troops at a +concession rate of one penny per mile return. There is no paper +inflation, therefore, in the figures.</p> + +<p>I have given the above particulars at some length, as the management of +so big a business organization as the entire railway system of the +country is obviously a good criterion of the nature of the political +administration as a whole.</p> + +<p>I may add two further instances of New Zealand methods. The first is +that the Government has embarked upon a seven-million-sterling scheme +for the development of hydro-electric power for industrial purposes, the +country being remarkably provided with facilities for this class of +enterprise. The installations, several of which are already well +advanced, are situated in widely separated localities spread over both +of the islands, so that a large proportion of the country will benefit. +The total power which this scheme is expected ultimately to develop +amounts to something like half a million horse-power. The work was to be +proceeded with as fast as labour, which was very scarce at the time of +the Prince's visit, became available. The second point concerns the +resettlement of returned soldiers upon the land and their restarting in +business. Upon this object the New Zealand Government had expended a +million sterling, of which the bulk consisted of loans on easy terms. +The feature that seems significant of the general situation of New<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +Zealand, was that practically all the fifty thousand men demobilized had +been found employment, and that the loans were being rapidly repaid, +one-eighth (£117,000) having already been refunded, while less than six +per cent. of the ten thousand men who had received advances were +reported as irregular with their instalments.</p> + +<p>Travelling as the party did from end to end of New Zealand, such +national enterprises as the working of the railways, the development of +hydro-electric power and the restarting of the men returned from the +war, were often discussed. The considerations which emerged are +certainly encouraging, not only from the point of view of those already +settled in the Dominion, but also to that wider community throughout the +Empire that looks to Australasia as a future home.</p> + +<p>The Prince left Christchurch by train on the morning of the 17th May, on +his journey to the southern end of the South Island and passed once more +through the Canterbury plain, a well-watered land of pleasant homesteads +and wide flat fields just then white with stubble from a recently reaped +wheat crop. His first stopping-place was the thriving town of Ashburton, +where an address of welcome was read by Major Galbraith, at one time one +of the best football players in New Zealand. In the course of his reply +His Royal Highness mentioned that he was a farmer in a small way +himself, which made him specially interested in the splendid farming +country through which he had been passing. The Prince's colonial farm is +in Alberta; he added it to the trophies of his Canadian tour in 1919. He +has already stocked and improved it and there is not a Canadian from +Halifax to Vancouver who does not look confidently to this holding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +to bring him back there at an early date. Temuka, famed for its +trout-fishing, and Timaru, a rising watering-place, came next upon his +itinerary. Timaru is a port for the shipment of chilled meat, in +connexion with which several substantial cold-storage works could be +seen from the train. In this centre the Prince was given a picturesque +reception on the wide sands of Charlotte Bay, a popular bathing-resort +in the summer months. The cliffs here form an amphitheatre from which +twenty thousand people, including two thousand children from the schools +around, witnessed the usual reading of a civic address, and march past +of returned soldiers, red cross nurses, and other war workers. In the +afternoon the train traversed a fine bridge over the Waitaki river, +which is here the dividing line between the Scotch settlers of Otago and +the English of Canterbury. The Prince also stopped off at Oamaru, and +inspected a collegiate school, one of the foremost in New Zealand, where +an exceedingly smart cadet corps paraded before him, and he was +conducted by the headmaster, Doctor F. Milner, over buildings and +grounds comparable to those of a first-class public school in England. +One of the features of the institution was unenclosed dormitories, in +which the lads sleep out of doors, in all weathers, with wonderfully +beneficial results to their health and endurance.</p> + +<p>Dusk fell when the train was some twenty miles from Dunedin, the +Edinburgh of New Zealand, but the sky was lighted throughout the whole +of this distance by enormous bonfires, every village and every homestead +along the line competing as to which could make the biggest flare +against the forest and hills behind. Around these bonfires the local +inhabitants had assembled and cheered the Prince as the train ran<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +through. The night was alive with enthusiasm. Little old weary England, +at anchor far in her North sea, might have been glad to feel it.</p> + +<p>Port Chalmers, the Rosyth of Dunedin, was a wonderful sight. Coloured +flares were simultaneously lighted in all parts of the town, as the +train passed along the top of the cliffs. The harbour was thus shown up +like an inland lake, in a setting of hills, against which houses, +shipping and docks stood out in brilliant relief.</p> + +<p>At Dunedin the train climbed down into a fairyland of electric +illuminations, beginning at the railway station, where Mayor Begg and +the members of the civic council were assembled. A procession in cars, +through Princes Street and Stuart Street, to the Dunedin Club, where +quarters had been arranged for the Prince, showed him half a mile of +decorated, illuminated route, kept in absolute order by boy-scouts, +cadets and school-children, though every one of Dunedin's sixty thousand +inhabitants appeared to be participating in an orgy of cheering, +flag-waving and flower throwing behind this slender barrier.</p> + +<p>On the following day His Royal Highness attended an open-air reception, +in the presence of an immense gathering in the city octagon, beneath the +cathedral, the steps of which were occupied by a big chorus of girls +from secondary schools. Here he received nine addresses of welcome. In +replying, he told Dunedin that the part she played in the life of New +Zealand was fully worthy of the noble traditions which her pioneers +brought from the schools and colleges of the Old Country. Later on the +Prince visited the hospital, whence he drove over the heights +overlooking the shore, and down a steep winding track to Port<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> +Chalmers, where, amidst more decorations and cheering crowds, the +Harbour Board and Local Borough Council presented addresses.</p> + +<p>On another day, in the presence of twenty thousand people, grouped +amongst green olearia bushes on grassy sandhills by the bay, the Prince +inspected seven thousand children representing two hundred and fifty +schools. A pretty incident occurred in the march past when the +wide ranks of the children opened, and a score of white-clad, +black-stockinged maidens trooped up and curtsyed before the Prince to +the strains of the March of Athol played by a drum and fife band in +Gordon plaids. The biggest and the littlest girl in the deputation then +stepped forward and presented the Royal visitor with a tiny greenstone +memento, purchased for him by the school-children themselves. A further +event of the visit of Dunedin was a march past by lamplight in the drill +hall. Five thousand tickets to this ceremony were issued to returned +men, each of whom came accompanied by relations or friends, so the +numbers present must have been considerable.</p> + +<p>From Dunedin the Prince went by train to Invercargill, the fifth city of +New Zealand. On the way he passed, in a snow-storm, the woollen mills of +Mosgiel, also the Mount Wallace and Kaitangata coal-mines. Receptions +were given in the towns of Balclutha, an active farming centre; +Gore, the head-quarters of flourishing flour-mills, and Mataura, the +location of hydro-electric works, paper-mills and cold-storage plant. +Invercargill was reached in cold wind and rain, yet the whole population +was found assembled in the streets. From the station the route led to +the racecourse, where in the presence of an immense gathering,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +undismayed by the weather which had turned the whole place into a +quagmire, addresses were presented from the city of Invercargill and +from the Southland County. In the course of his reply the Prince +referred to Invercargill as being the last stopping-place on his New +Zealand tour, and added that fate would be unkind if it prevented his +renewing his recent experiences at some future time.</p> + +<p>The return journey of four hundred miles by train to Lyttleton, where +His Royal Highness re-embarked upon the <i>Renown</i> for Australia, was done +in record time. The Earl of Liverpool, Governor-General; Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, and Mr. MacDonald, Leader of the Opposition, travelled +to Lyttleton to say good-bye. The Prince gave a farewell dinner on the +<i>Renown</i>, at which he conferred Knight-Commanderships of the Victorian +Order upon Sir William Fraser, and Sir Edward Chaytor, who had +accompanied him throughout the New Zealand tour. Junior rank in the same +Order was conferred upon Lt.-Colonel Sleeman, Director of Military +Training; Mr. Gavin Hamilton, of the Governor-General's staff; Mr. James +Hislop, Under-Secretary for Internal Affairs; Mr. R. W. McVilly, General +Manager of Railways; Mr. O'Donovan, Chief of Police, and Mr. Tahu +Rhodes, of the Governor-General's staff—all of whom had been +actively connected with the tour.</p> + +<p>The Prince at the same time handed to Mr. Massey, for publication +throughout New Zealand, a farewell message, in which he expressed his +thanks to the Government and people of the Dominion for the splendid +reception given to him. The message continued: "Two things particularly +impressed me. New Zealand is a land not merely of opportunity for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +some but for all. I have never seen such well-being and happiness so +uniformly evident throughout the population of country and town alike. +This Dominion is also a living example of the fact that a European +race may take over a new country without injustice to the original +inhabitants, and that both may advance in mutual confidence and +understanding along a common path. New Zealand is one of the greatest +monuments to British civilization in the world, and I have felt, from +end to end of the Dominion, that there is nowhere a British people more +set in British traditions or more true to British ideals. I have found +the strength of your loyalty to the Empire and its sovereign as keen and +bracing as mountain air, and I know you will never weaken in your +devotion to British unity and British ideals."</p> + +<p>In conclusion the Prince referred to the journeys still to be taken +before he could say he had seen the British Empire as a whole, adding +that he still hoped to pay New Zealand another visit some day, a hope +cordially echoed by both press and people throughout the Dominion.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XII" id="XII"></a>XII</h2> + +<h2>VICTORIA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The voyage from Lyttleton to Melbourne was rough but uneventful. The +<i>Renown</i> did the 1,651 miles in three days, and very uncomfortable days +they were. She carried a new passenger in the fine bulldog presented to +the ward-room mess by the Mayor of Gisborne, but it languished so +grievously that it had to find a new home in the Commonwealth. It had +joined the Navy too late in life.</p> + +<p>The Prince had his first view of Australia by moonlight. The sea had +then gone down and mist hung in the narrow strait as the <i>Renown</i> passed +between the dark shadowy hills of Wilson's promontory and the grey +rounded cone of Rodondo Island. The following morning, however, found +the <i>Renown</i> still outside the confined entrance to Port Phillip, +enveloped in a clinging fog, that shut out everything from view. The +tide was then high, so the ten-knot current, that rushes through the +entrance when the water is low, had subsided, but this favourable +condition could not be taken advantage of to bring in the <i>Renown</i> as +neither buoys nor lights could be seen. Impatiently the ship's company +waited for the fog to clear, but hour after hour went by and it seemed +to grow only denser. Tired navigating officers, in sopping overalls,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +descended gloomily from the bridge, and it was realized that there would +be no crossing the bar that tide. The wireless meanwhile had crackled a +message through to the Australian fleet, lying within Port Phillip, +asking destroyers to come out and fetch the Prince, so that he might not +disappoint the enormous crowds waiting in the streets of Melbourne to +welcome him. The destroyers had forty miles of intricate navigation to +negotiate, but were speedily in the neighbourhood. The <i>Renown</i> +meanwhile had been carried by the currents out of her original position, +but the firing of guns and the tooting of syrens eventually discovered +her. That fine boat H.M.A.S. <i>Anzac</i>, recently attached to the +Australian Navy, came smartly alongside, and took off the entire party. +Steaming at twenty-eight knots, with a following wave so high as nearly +to conceal the accompanying destroyers from the <i>Anzac's</i> quarter-deck, +soon brought her through the Heads, in spite of the ten-knot tide then +running full against her. The fog thinned off, and showed the <i>Anzac</i> +in still autumn sunshine, pushing through a misty expanse of grey +landlocked bays. Yellow sandy hills, dotted with soft-toned buildings, +receded on either side as she advanced and the bay widened out, to +reappear later on as she approached Melbourne harbour, which first +presented itself as a forest of gaunt black cranes, with a background of +roofs and chimneys emerging mistily from a low foreshore.</p> + +<p>The destroyer was cheered again and again, as she approached amongst +launches and steamers crammed with holiday-makers out to see the Prince. +She made fast to a red-carpeted wharf, in front of goods sheds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +flaming with decorations, where waited a smartly turned out naval +guard-of-honour, and all the port authorities in full dress. Greetings +and salutes accomplished, the party transhipped to a shallow-draft +steamer—the <i>Hygeia</i>—which carried the Prince to the St. +Kilda pier, in front of the residential quarter, through a fleet of +yachts and launches filled with cheering people.</p> + +<p>On the pier four figures stood out prominently—the +Governor-General, the Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, the +Lieutenant-Governor of Victoria, and the Premier of Victoria. Behind +them were staffs in uniform, scores of dignitaries in top-hats and +frock-coats, and a guard-of-honour in khaki. Long lines of marines and +sailors kept a lane down the pier, and out into the crowd beyond. The +Prince landed, and shook hands with the Governor-General and the Prime +Minister, who afterwards presented to him the Premiers of New South +Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Western Australia, and Tasmania, +besides numerous members of their respective Governments, most of whom +had travelled long distances to attend. The civic address gone through, +a procession was formed, the Prince, the Governor-General, the Prime +Minister, and other bigger officials in barouches, the rest of the party +following in motors behind. The mounted escorts included a fine squadron +of police on grey horses, each of which was a picture. The procession +traversed eight miles of wide, well-kept streets, with swarms of +well-dressed, well-nourished people, applauding, laughing and chaffing +on either side. The crowds were enormous. The streets were crammed. +Thousands were accommodated upon stands against the sides of the +buildings. Every balcony, window, roof, and parapet, whence, in any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +way, a glimpse could be caught of the procession, was filled with +people. Commonwealth troops, cadets in khaki, and police in black +uniform, though stationed only sparsely along the line, maintained +excellent order. The crowds were as full of good-humour as could be, +despite having been kept waiting by the fog for more than an hour after +the advertised time. A wave of clapping and cheering went down the +street alongside the Prince, and tailed off into chaff and criticism, at +the expense of Mr. Hughes and other members of the Government, at the +end of the procession. The cheering grew stronger as the business +quarter of Melbourne was reached, and the procession passed through its +spacious thoroughfares. "Generous" seemed to be the adjective most +appropriate alike to the broad outlines of the architecture, for +Melbourne despises sky-scrapers, to the width and dignity of the +well-paved streets, and to the profusion of costly motor-cars and horses +seen on the way. Those who accompanied the party were soon to discover +for themselves that it applies equally to the quick-witted, outspoken, +hospitable, kindly people of Melbourne.</p> + +<p>The following day was a busy one for the Prince. It began with a levée +at Government House, where he invested a number of returned officers and +men with decorations won at the front. The reception of a score of +addresses came next and the replying to the more important of them, +including those from both Houses of the Commonwealth Legislature. The +functions finished with a banquet at Parliament Buildings, at which the +Right Honourable Mr. Hughes proposed the Prince's health. The toast was +seconded, in the warmest terms, by Mr. Frank Tudor, Leader of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +Opposition. The keynote of the occasion was sounded by Mr. Hughes when +he said to his guest: "The people of Australia see in you the things in +which they believe."</p> + +<p>There followed a bewildering week in which the Prince was carried from +one public function to another, through extraordinary masses of people, +composed largely of women and children, but also comprising a very +considerable number of men, who waited in the streets for hours at a +time, sometimes in chill wind, fog or rain, on the chance of catching a +glimpse of the Royal visitor. Many of them, when he appeared, made such +efforts to approach and shake him by the hand, that the police had +difficulty in getting his car through. His progress was so delayed in +many cases that it became almost impossible for him to fulfil +engagements at the hour appointed, in spite of the most liberal +allowance of time for delays upon the road. Eventually appeals were made +through the press for some abatement of this personal demonstration. The +police arranged for a wider lane to be kept for his car, and the +difficulty gradually disappeared. The Melbourne newspapers, meanwhile, +day after day, made the Prince's visit their almost exclusive business. +The smallest details of his doings were chronicled with minuteness, and +long poems and articles about him were published. Photographs, in every +attitude and at every function, appeared prominently amongst the news of +the day. The Prince was "featured" inexhaustibly. Scenes of enthusiasm +also characterized the Naval Review, where every fighting ship belonging +to the Commonwealth of Australia was paraded. A special agricultural +show was held to which landholders from distant parts of Victoria<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> +sent breeding stock so valuable that no previous exhibition had been +able to attract it. A public reception was given in the exhibition +buildings, where people stood from eleven in the morning to four in the +afternoon to secure front places. An entertainment was organized at +the cricket-ground where ten thousand school-children went through +marvellously trained evolutions, and fifty thousand spectators cheered +when the Prince appeared.</p> + +<p>When one asked folk in the street what they thought of him, enthusiasm +found various expressions, but it was always enthusiasm. I have heard a +stout, middle-aged and presumably sane gentleman in the smoking-room of +a Melbourne hotel declare in the most bellicose tone to all and sundry +that he would like to fight for him. I never heard a word of criticism. +Certainly Melbourne, and all the great interests it represents, took the +Prince to a generous heart.</p> + +<p>From Melbourne His Royal Highness made a two-days' trip by train into +the rich districts of Western Victoria, through the Werribee Plain, +where land fetches up to £60 per acre. Stone-walled fields of oats just +rising above ground, with pleasant farm-houses amidst sparse white +gum-trees, spread on either side of the track. Low, blue hills bounded +the view. Country folk waved greetings from many homesteads, as the +train sped onward. The first stopping-place was Geelong, on the +sheltered coast of Port Phillip, once a rival to Melbourne for the +honour of being the capital of Victoria, now a marine base, and +prosperous shire town. It is known throughout Australia as the home of +the doctrine of the one man vote, and eight-hour day, first promulgated +in the 'seventies, by Sir Graham Berry, who represented Geelong in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +the Commonwealth Legislature. Here the Prince found himself in the +midst of an agricultural, manufacturing and shipping community. The +guard-of-honour was composed of naval cadets. He was shown thousands of +bales of finest merino wool from mills which not only clean and sort it, +but also, upon a smaller scale, manufacture it into blankets and cloth. +Pupils were presented to him from Geelong's famous grammar school, which +draws its students from all parts of Australia, and had a larger +proportion of casualties, in the great war, than any other educational +institution outside the British islands. Here also he visited a big +wool-shed, that of Messrs. Dennys Lascelles Ltd., with a ferro-concrete +roof weighing two thousand tons, so large that the sales-room it +shelters covers an acre of floor, yet there is not a single pillar in +support, the necessary stiffness being given by means of reinforced +girders, built upon cantilever principles, above the roof. The streets +were crowded with people, and the Prince had a very fine reception alike +at the reading of the municipal address, and at the functions of shaking +hands with returned soldiers, and inspecting school-children. A large +number of schools from townships in the interior were represented, each +with one pupil elected by its fellows to shake hands with the Prince. +The selected mites stood shyly out, in front of the lines of scholars, +as the Prince went by to honour the promise given.</p> + +<p>From Geelong the Prince went on to Colac, shire centre of one of the +richest districts in Victoria. Here he was shown what claims to be the +second largest dairying factory in the Commonwealth. It is run on +co-operative lines, and makes, in addition to such products as butter +and cheese, large quantities of dried milk, a comparatively new<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +preparation, for which increasing demand is springing up in all parts of +the world. It is an enterprise to which all may wish good luck, as a +long step toward solving the important problem of rendering milk easily +transportable, without loss of essential properties.</p> + +<p>In entering, and again in leaving Colac, the train passed quite close to +a number of low conical hills and circular lakes, remains of +comparatively recent volcanic action, which has given the soil over a +wide area properties that enable it to grow Spanish onions in +extraordinary profusion. In a favourable season, fabulous profits are +made out of this crop. One man, with twenty acres, in one year cleared +£1,800, of which £1,200 was net profit, after paying all cost of +cultivation and harvesting. The Prince also saw some of the outlying +trees of the famous Otway forest, home of the blue gum and blackwood +timber used not only in Australia but also in America and Europe for +decorative work.</p> + +<p>In Colac, the streets had been elaborately decorated. Flags covered +alike the stone and reinforced-concrete houses of business, and the +brick and wooden residences. The accommodation of the place had been +supplemented for the Royal visit, by encampments of tents, one large +marquee flaunting the imposing title of the "Café de Kerbstone." Choirs, +in Welsh and Scottish costumes, serenaded the procession. There was much +cordial cheering, especially about the shire-hall, where the civic +address was read.</p> + +<p>The next halting-place was Camperdown, another farming centre, where +again a surprisingly large gathering of country folk had assembled to +welcome the Prince. Motor-cars, often of the most expensive British +makes, in which the owners had come from their holdings, stood about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +in the streets. The Royal party here transferred to motors, in which +the Prince drove out to the residence of Mr. Stuart Black, one of +Australia's great landholders, descendant of settlers from Tasmania, who +opened up this part of the country some eighty years ago. These settlers +bore many distinguished names, including those of the Gladstone family +and the MacKinnons.</p> + +<p>The following day His Royal Highness went by train to Ballarat, past a +fine stone memorial to members of the neighbourhood who had fallen in +the great war, subscribed for by the residents of the district, and +designed by Mr. Butler, of Sydney. The route lay through undulating +agricultural country, past big heaps of white, pink, or yellow tailings, +which mark the sites of now worked-out gold-mines. Some of the fields +around were pitted with what looked very much like shell-holes, dug by +early prospectors for the gold that made Ballarat famous. The Prince +found the last-named place a prosperous market town, with substantial +public buildings, and quantities of marble statues, dating from the days +of easily made fortunes in the 'seventies. It contains also wool, and +other factories, including that of Messrs. Lucas and Company, for the +production of underclothing, with which the Prince became acquainted +under circumstances worthy of the creditable history of this firm. +During the war, some five hundred girls employed by Messrs. Lucas +conceived the idea of planting an avenue, in which each tree should be +connected with the name of one of Ballarat's large contingent of +fighting men at the front. At the head of this avenue, which is now a +dozen miles in length, a substantial masonry Arch of Victory has been +set up. The Prince opened this arch in the presence of the entire<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +establishment of the Lucas factory, which presented him with an +embroidered set of underclothing—yellow silk pyjamas, to be +exact—in the making of which every employee of the firm had taken +part.</p> + +<p>Rain had been falling heavily, but the girls faced it cheerily at the +head of their avenue, many a tree of which bore the flag that told that +the soldier it commemorated had been killed. The presentation was made +to the Prince by two ladies, one of whom was Mrs. Lucas, the founder of +the firm, which she had started on a very small scale, at a time when +the miners were beginning to desert the Ballarat goldfield, leaving, in +many cases, families behind them. Mrs. Lucas gathered these families +around her, and by a system of profit-sharing, attached them to her +firm, which is now well known throughout Australia.</p> + +<p>This was not the only function at Ballarat. The Prince also received an +address standing out in the rain, on a platform in the main street, in +the midst of a crowd so large that those in the rear could neither hear +nor see very clearly what was going on in front. As the result, both the +reading and the reply to the address were much interrupted, a patriotic +cornet on the outskirts playing "God Bless the Prince of Wales" part of +the time while the Prince himself was speaking. The Prince got hold of +his audience, after two false starts, however, and to such purpose that +the latter part of his speech was listened to with an interest that the +rain, which plastered his hair and flattened out his collar, appeared to +enhance. The cheering at the end was most hearty. The crowd did not +disperse when the speeches were over, but waited in the rain until after +the completion of a further ceremony, which took place inside the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +town hall, where the Prince shook hands with numbers of returned men and +nurses. He was again loudly cheered when he came out and got into his +car <i>en route</i> to the train to Melbourne.</p> + +<p>The rain that was so insistent during the visit to Ballarat was of +dramatic importance to the country at large. It broke a long and serious +drought, extending over an enormous area—a drought so severe that +we passed, on the road to Ballarat, way-worn sheep that had been driven +three hundred miles in search of fodder and water. They were browsing, +on their homeward way, on one of the farmer's stock-routes which +traverse Australia from end to end. These cattle-tracks are generously +bordered by pastures fenced off from the surrounding country, so as to +conserve food for flocks and herds in movement.</p> + +<p>Two days later, just three weeks from Australia's mid-winter, the Prince +crossed, by train from Melbourne, the chill slopes of the Great Dividing +Range, which separates the basin of the Murray river, flowing westward +through central Australia, from that of the streams which pour their +waters southwards to the coast. On the way, he received addresses at +Kyneton and Castlemaine, once gold-mining camps, now not less prosperous +dairying and woollen-working centres, the entire countryside turning out +to receive him. Thence the train climbed down to a pleasant plateau on +which stands Bendigo, city of flowers and dry, healthful breezes, and a +centre of large and still exceedingly productive quartz gold-mining. +Enormous heaps of grey "mullick" shale, and yellow and white tailings +here stand amongst beautiful avenues of shady eucalyptus trees, and +substantial buildings of stone and brick. One of the cheeriest civic<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +luncheons of the tour was a feature of the day—the Mayor toasting +the Royal guest as Duke of Cornwall, Prince of the "Cousin Jacks," to +whom the development of the Bendigo gold industry is so largely due. A +novelty also appeared on the triumphal arches in the streets, which, +in place of wreaths and patriotic texts, carried whole bevies of the +prettiest girls the city could find. These arches had been built in the +form of bridges connecting the porticoes on one side of the street with +those on the other. The girls occupied the middle and dropped flowers as +the Prince passed in his car.</p> + +<p>Intensive small culture is so successful about Bendigo, that we were +told as much as £300 has been made out of an acre of tomatoes in a +single year. Bendigo may thus look forward to a future of agriculture +when her reefs are exhausted. Gold-mining brought her population, but +her fields and gardens will probably keep it.</p> + +<p>Later in the afternoon the Prince, accompanied by the Prime Minister, in +overalls, descended the shaft of one of the gold-mines that amongst them +keep the mints of the country busy turning out sovereigns that bear on +the reverse the effigy of the kangaroo. The Prince thus made the +acquaintance of the gold industry which has played so dramatic a part in +the history of the Commonwealth. The output has been falling off +gradually since 1903 when the value produced was over sixteen million +sterling. It still averages over ten million sterling annually however, +and is likely long to remain a very important source of wealth.</p> + +<p>It was on this expedition that newspaper men accompanying the tour had +their first opportunity of becoming acquainted with a number of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +distinguished Australians with whom they were so fortunate thereafter as +to travel extensively. I have already mentioned that the Rt. Hon. Mr. +William Hughes, Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, was one of them, his +outspoken frankness and caustic humour illuminating and diverting long +stretches of the railway journeys. Another member of the Commonwealth +Government, closely associated with the tour, was the Hon. Mr. Pearce, +Minister of Defence, who was supported, whenever the Prince was in naval +ports, by the Hon. Sir Joseph Cook, Minister for the Navy, and +Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Member of the Naval Board, authorities who +were able to afford the Prince first-hand information about the training +and equipment of the forces that have given an account of themselves at +once so memorable and so recent. Major-General Sir Brudenell White, +Commonwealth Organizer of the visit, Brigadier-General H. W. Lloyd, +Brigadier-General Dodds, Commodore J. S. Dumaresq, were also outstanding +figures of the party. The Commonwealth arrangements, extensive though +they were, represented only a small portion of the organization +connected with the Australian part of the tour. Every State had also its +own organizer, besides numerous committees—committees for +decoration and illuminations, reception committees, committees for +dinners and dances, school committees, committees to guide and instruct +the British Press. These last-named bodies, to whom the debt of the +visiting newspapermen was considerable, consisted not of delegated +correspondents but of the editors and proprietors of the leading +journals themselves. These gentlemen also took upon themselves the duty +of making known throughout each State the story of the Prince's +doings, thus giving to the business of publicity the best and most +influential brains available, and placing at the disposal of the +Overseas pressmen a constant reference to experience and local knowledge +of the utmost value.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo112.png" width="600" height="460" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />JUTLAND DAY AT MELBOURNE<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo112a.png" width="600" height="481" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />WITH AUSTRALIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED CITIZEN<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> + +<p>With the Commonwealth Prime Minister an ex-Labour member, and with +Labour Governments in power in several of the Australian state +legislatures, no one can visit Melbourne, seat of the Commonwealth +Government, without coming up against some of the industrial problems +and prospects in this country. It has already been mentioned that, at +the dinner given to the Prince by the Commonwealth Government, in +Parliament Buildings, Mr. Frank Tudor, leader of the Labour Party in +opposition to Mr. Hughes' Government, warmly seconded the toast of the +Prince's health. I repeat this fact, as it seems to be indicative of the +general attitude of Victorian labour towards the Royal visit. The +British pressmen had the opportunity of meeting some of the Labour +leaders, amongst them Mr. E. J. Holloway, Secretary of the Melbourne +Trades Hall, and Mr. D. L. MacNamara, Labour Member of the Victoria +Upper House. They are men of moderate views, while full of schemes for +bettering the conditions of labour on this continent. Mr. MacNamara is +the author of proposals, now forming part of the Australian Labour +Party's platform, for revising the Commonwealth constitution, upon lines +designed to make the will of the people supreme. He would abolish +existing State governments, and divide the States into provinces +administered by councils exercising only such functions as might, from +time to time, be conferred upon them by the Commonwealth Government, +the Upper Chamber in the latter to be done away with, thereby<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> +leaving the lower Federal House a free hand to put through legislation +beneficial to the masses. This scheme, whatever may be its intrinsic +merits, is rather of theoretic than practical interest, as there is not +much probability of any proposals for increasing the powers of the +Commonwealth Government being accepted by the States, which are after +all in paramount authority for the time being. It is nevertheless +important as showing the constructive nature of problems with which +Labour men in this part of Australia concern themselves. Mr. Holloway's +activities have been chiefly connected with organizing proposals for +the immediate advantage of workers, reducing their hours of work, and +increasing their pay. Australian labour is watching developments in +England, and a tendency is growing to substitute friendly round-table +conferences between workers and employers for the less elastic processes +of strikes and lock-outs which have so often been resorted to in the +past.</p> + +<p>There was no lack of evidence in Melbourne to show how closely the +community, as a whole, is affected by the new distribution of political +power. Smoke-room assertions that industry was being destroyed by the +frequency of strikes need not be taken too seriously, since the manifest +prosperity of the crowds and the well-ordered activities of the +factories did not at the time confirm any such mournful supposition. It +is apropos to mention, however, that in Melbourne places of business +much capital is locked up in purely emergency apparatus for doing +without such public utilities as water-supply, electricity and gas, +these arrangements being designed to enable industry to continue during +periods of municipal inactivity, a fact which is certainly significant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +of the frequency of strikes in the past. Another noticeable feature is +the far-reaching nature of the activities of the unions. In the +sub-editorial rooms of the leading newspapers may be seen labour forms, +to be filled up even by men holding well-paid appointments upon the +staff, giving detailed particulars of hours of duty, overtime and +emoluments.</p> + +<p>Friendly personal interest, rather than anything deeper, was perhaps +apparent in what some of the Labour men said about the Prince. Friendly +personal interest was always there, however. Even those who were +inclined to ascribe the wonderful reception in the streets to the Prince +being "a good sport, and well advertised," readily admitted the +desirability of the British connexion, and their own cordial wish to +keep up old relationships in this new land. At the time of the Prince's +visit correspondence appeared in the Melbourne Press on the subject of +alleged Catholic lukewarmness in regard to Royalty, and it must be said +that political trouble in Ireland has not been without its echo of +difficulty in Victoria, though the extent of anything of the kind might +be very easily exaggerated.</p> + +<p>The wonder is, however, not that isolated exceptions should be found, +but that, with all the divergent political ideals, and conflicting +social conditions, necessarily met with in a large city of such recent +growth as Melbourne, so generous a measure of warm-hearted loyalty +should have been manifested, loyalty in which all sections of the +community, including Labour, showed themselves to be in warm accord.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a>XIII</h2> + +<h2>NEW SOUTH WALES</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Towards the end of the visit to Melbourne it became plain that the +tension of repeated functions and strenuous journeys had begun to tell +upon the Prince. He held out manfully, but was clearly overtired. This +was by no means surprising, at all events to any member of the tour +party, for all had begun to feel a strain which fell in a degree vastly +multiplied upon His Royal Highness.</p> + +<p>That well-informed journal, "The Melbourne Argus," referring to the +matter, said: "When the programme was arranged, before the arrival in +Melbourne, the opinion was expressed in these columns that it was +proposed to place too great a strain upon the Prince, and since his +arrival it has become every day more evident that human strength is +unequal to the tasks which have been set. The Prince has not made any +complaint, but has most generously and courageously met all engagements. +Only those in close association with him know the expenditure of nervous +force which this conscientious discharge of duty has entailed."</p> + +<p>Eventually the programme was altered so as to give H.R.H. an additional +week in Melbourne, free from public engagements. The hope that he would +rest, however, was not in any literal sense fulfilled, as he spent his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +holiday in riding and golf, hardly less tiring than the public functions +which the doctor had forbidden him. His staff were lucky if, after a +long day spent in the saddle, he could be persuaded not to dance into +the small hours. This strenuousness is characteristic. In the <i>Renown</i> +he spent much of his spare time exercising on deck or playing squash +racquets. A mile run was his not infrequent preparation for a long day +of public engagements. It is an attractive habit, but in the case of one +subjected as the Prince is, at short intervals, to emotional as well as +physical strain it hardly carries the recuperative benefit that it might +in ordinary circumstances. The rest in Melbourne, such as it was, +enabled him to carry on throughout the remainder of the tour. He seemed +occasionally to take every ounce out of himself, but he "carried on."</p> + +<p>Melbourne's send-off, when the Prince ultimately left to proceed to +Sydney, was, if possible, even more demonstrative than its reception +when he arrived. Nine aeroplanes, soaring round the Ionic columns of +Parliament Buildings, as dusk was falling, created the first stir in the +immense crowd which waited along the road he was to take. Presently +distant cheering was heard gradually coming nearer, as his car made its +way from the Moone Valley racecourse, where he had spent the afternoon, +to the top of Collins Street, where the official portion of the route +commenced. Slowly the procession extricated itself from the mass of +people who rushed up to say farewell, and assailed his car with +offerings of flowers and wax Kewpie dolls for luck. A real horse-shoe, +tied up in ribbon, was thrown by an admirer unable to get near enough to +present it. It was perhaps owing to the good luck it brought that it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> +dropped harmlessly into the bottom of the Prince's car. Eventually, the +procession was able to go forward along a barricaded lane kept by the +police in the middle of the street. In this space children raced +alongside, and a ripple of waving hats and handkerchiefs kept pace with +the cars as they advanced, while the evening air rang with cries of +"Good-bye, Digger": "Come Again!" interspersed with clapping and +cheering. The Prince stood upon the seat of the car waving his hat +through some miles of these demonstrations.</p> + +<p>On the wharf at Port Melbourne a farewell address was presented by the +local authorities beneath a gigantic arch inscribed "Australia Is Proud +of You." Here the State Premier and other notables attended, also a +guard-of-honour of the Royal Australian Naval Brigade. The reverberation +of boots upon the wharf, as the crowd rushed afterwards to catch a last +view of the Prince as he went up the gangway of the <i>Renown</i>, drowned +the sound of a fife and drum band, operated by ladies in MacKenzie +tartans, which banged on cheerfully alongside.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> sailed at daylight, escorted out of harbour by a flotilla +of Australian destroyers. The voyage was along a hilly shore for the +most part covered with forest. The first port of call was in the wide, +sheltered harbour of Jervis Bay, the Dartmouth of Australia. Here Sir +Joseph Cook and Rear-Admiral Grant, with Captain Walters, Dr. Wheatly +and other senior members of the Naval College, received the Prince, who +inspected a smart guard-of-honour of cadets, and was subsequently shown +over the institution, which is well arranged and up to date. The +buildings include airy dormitories, comfortable study rooms, convenient +lecture halls, commodious laboratories, and spacious gymnasium and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> +gun-room, and are built round a roomy grass "quarter-deck," on which the +cadets in the course of the afternoon handsomely defeated the best Rugby +football team that the <i>Renown</i> could produce. Nothing could exceed the +pleasantness and wholesomeness of the atmosphere of this fine naval +training college. The life by the cadets is an open-air one, and a more +healthy and promising body of youngsters it would be impossible to find +anywhere. They are being given a sound education amongst surroundings +calculated to impress upon them the beauty and attractiveness of the +land whose service they are about to enter. The harbour, at the foot of +the college playing-fields, is to be the port of entrance to the federal +territory of Canberra. The site of the new capital itself is only some +seventy miles inland, a distance which is thought nothing of in this +country of magnificent spaces. A railway has been surveyed to connect +the two places, and a corridor of federal territory had been marked out, +so that the entire line, including the port, may be out of reach of any +state influence.</p> + +<p>The Jervis Bay College is a step in the direction of making the fine +fighting ships, which Australia already possesses, independent of the +help of the Mother Country. Boys are growing up there who will hereafter +command them, and perhaps build the big naval graving docks, that are so +badly wanted in Australian waters, to enable the modern battleships of +Great Britain to reinforce effectually those of Australia in any trouble +that may arise in the Pacific.</p> + +<p>"What do you think of our harbour?" is as inevitable a question in +Sydney as "What do you think of America?" is in New York. It was soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> +countered by the demand of the blue-jackets on the <i>Renown</i>, "And +what do you think of our ship?" but its relevance was easy enough +to understand, when, in the misty dawn, of what was mid-winter in +Australia, but might have been a fine June day in England, we reached +the high rocky headlands which guard the entrance to these wonderful +inland waters.</p> + +<p>A flotilla of war-vessels, including two Australian cruisers and a +number of destroyers, escorted the Prince's ship into an aquatic +amphitheatre. On all sides were beautiful wooded promontories sloping +down to the edge of still pearly water. The slopes were studded with +home-like villas, each gay in its own garden. Bays and inlets made +shaded alleyways in all directions from the central expanse. Slowly the +battle-cruiser threaded her way through the deep water marked but by +buoys into the inner harbour. Hundreds of decorated motor-boats and +dozens of double-decked ferry-steamers crowded round, each one of them a +cheerful bouquet of brilliant parasols and fine-weather millinery. +Well-groomed men, opulently dressed women, and smartly turned out boys +and girls, on one boat after another waved handkerchiefs and Union +Jacks, clapped, cheered, laughed, and sang. Brass bands banged out the +National Anthem, and the usual petition to the Almighty to bless the +Prince of Wales. The Prince waved and smiled in return, from his eyrie +above the bridge, while fresh boats raced alongside, and continually +restarted the hubbub.</p> + +<p>As the <i>Renown</i> advanced up the harbour droves of rowing-boats and +flocks of sailing craft added themselves to the now slow procession. +Gatherings of people became visible as dark patches on the white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> +foreshore of every promontory. In the case of the rocky headland +overlooking the middle harbour, the patch must have been many acres in +extent. The <i>Renown</i> dropped anchor half a mile from Farm Cove, a +sheltered gap in the encircling hills. The Prince went ashore in his +launch, through a decorated cheering sea-lane of tugs, ferry-steamers, +rowing-boats and yachts. He landed on a shaded beach, the slope behind +solidly crammed with people, while beside the water, in a grove of +bunting and greenery, were assembled the most distinguished men to be +found in this part of Australia. Those present included the +Governor-General, the Prime Minister, the State Governor, the State +Premier, Members of the Commonwealth Government resident in New South +Wales, the whole of the State legislature, Ministers, Judges in robes +and wigs, Admirals and Generals in the last inch of permitted gold-lace. +Immediately behind was a decorated marquee in which were the civic +officials, including the Lord Mayor of Sydney in municipal robes and +ermine, who presented an address. A naval guard-of-honour was drawn up +on one side of the marquee, and a military guard-of-honour on the other. +Salutes were fired, bands played, the guards-of-honour were inspected, +the principal people were presented. The address was replied to, and +amidst much cheering the Prince was conducted up a decorated staircase +to the top of the cliff where a number of four-in-hands with large +mounted escorts of "diggers" were in waiting to convey him through the +city. The proceedings differed from those on the occasion of the entry +into Melbourne in that they took place in bright morning sunshine, +instead of in the fading light of evening. The route, including as it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +did long straight stretches of undulating ground, enabled the brilliant +pageant of flags, escorts and pennants to be seen as a whole as the +procession jingled through five miles of densely packed people.</p> + +<p>The way was kept by returned soldiers and cadets. Triumphal arches, +constructed throughout of such characteristic Australian products as +wool-bales, corn-sheaves, or balks of timber, dotted it at intervals. +Avenues of white colonnades supported flags and bunting which stretched +continuously for miles. Sightseers festooned the parapets, crowded the +balconies, tapestried the windows with eager faces, and formed a solid +mass between the wooden barriers of the processional lane and the +plate-glass show-fronts of the business houses.</p> + +<p>In substantial Macquarie Street the Prince stopped to greet a terribly +large community of crippled soldiers, who sat patiently in motors and +bath-chairs by the wayside, attended by nursing sisters. Further on a no +less touching spectacle awaited him, in a great gathering of +black-garbed mothers, widows and orphans of diggers killed at the front, +a pathetic reminder that, of the four hundred thousand soldiers raised +by voluntary enlistment in Australia during the war, only one in two +escaped wounds or death. Here the pressure was dense; and spectators, we +heard, paid a shilling a minute to stand on packing-cases to look over +one another's heads.</p> + +<p>The route ended on the shady lawns of Admiralty House, where the Prince +inspected a great company of war-workers, who stood in ranks of +variegated colour, including the red and grey of sisters who served in +hospitals overseas, and the white and black of those whose no less<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> +devoted labour kept public utilities active at home while the manhood of +the nation was in the field. Before entering the building where he was +to stay the Prince shook hands with no less than ten wearers of the +Victoria Cross.</p> + +<p>The reception was over. Perhaps the feature in it which struck the +visitor most, next to its magnificence and enthusiasm, was the +light-heartedness of the crowds. After the Prince had passed, and had +been everywhere cheered, Mr. Hughes, the Commonwealth Prime Minister, +Mr. Storey, the State Premier, and other ministers who were further back +in the procession were subjected to volleys of chaff and counter-chaff +from supporters and opponents, in which they themselves joined with the +utmost goodwill. Even the crashing into the harbour, close alongside the +reception wharf, of one of the aeroplanes employed on escort duty, upset +the equanimity of nobody. A motor-launch promptly picked up the soused +aviators, who seemed to find the accident the greatest of larks.</p> + +<p>The country round was as much interested in the visit as the city +itself. For days before the Prince's coming special trains, crowded to +their utmost capacity, had followed one another in quick succession into +Sydney from localities sometimes hundreds of miles away in the back +blocks. One heard of a father who squeezed his family of tiny children +into one of these special trains, and was then unable to get a foothold +on it for himself. The mites went to Sydney unaccompanied, but lacked +for nothing, either upon the way or when they arrived, for every soul +upon the train was prepared to father and mother them.</p> + +<p>The ten days which followed were crowded with public functions in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> +which what seemed to be the entire population of Sydney participated +outside, if not inside, the place of occurrence. One of the principal +was the state banquet in the enormous town-hall. Seven hundred and +twenty diners here sat down. Three thousand of Sydney's maids and +matrons watched the proceedings from the galleries on either side, and +at a given signal after the dinner, when the Prince proposed "The +Ladies," there was a sound like a vast flight of pigeons and three +thousand Union Jacks fluttered into the air. The ladies had responded +for themselves. Crowds blocked the wide streets for half a mile round +the building, throughout the whole of the proceedings, and took up the +cheering again and again. The toasts of the evening were honoured, not +only in the banquet hall itself, but by some hundred of thousands +outside as well.</p> + +<p>Mr. Storey, the Premier of the Labour Government in power in New South +Wales, made a most cordial speech in proposing the Prince's health. He +described the Royal guest as a democrat in whose presence he felt no +embarrassment in speaking frankly. He welcomed him on behalf of New +South Wales, and declared that the Royal family had always shown +sympathy with the ideals for which Labour men everywhere stood. In the +course of his reply, the Prince said: "I realize to the full the great +part which New South Wales and Sydney have played, and must always play, +in the history of Australia. This wonderful city is the cradle of the +magnificent development which has made the Australian Commonwealth. The +whole thing started here, and in later days you were foremost in the +movement of ideas which led to federation. The greatest of all the +statesmen who first worked for federation, Henry Parkes, was a Sydney<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> +man, and a Premier of New South Wales. The first Australian Prime +Minister, Sir Edmund Barton, also came from New South Wales. It is +amazing to think that New South Wales holds two-fifths of the population +of the whole Commonwealth and that Sydney holds more than half of the +population of New South Wales. That fact alone shows the vast +importance, not only to the Commonwealth, but to the future of the whole +Empire, of this state and its lovely capital. Sydney is indeed the +London of the Southern Hemisphere."</p> + +<p>It is characteristic of Australia that the Commonwealth banquet in +Sydney, at which the Prince subsequently made what was probably his +principal speech during the tour, was an outwardly less imposing +function than was the state dinner I have just described. The +Commonwealth banquet was given in one of the upper stories of a fine +building in Martin's Place erected under the direction of Sir Denison +Miller, founder of that great national organization the Commonwealth +Bank, which now handles the entire finances of the central Government, +including the raising of loans and the issue of currency.</p> + +<p>At the Commonwealth dinner the Governor-General presided and Mr. Hughes +made one of those felicitous speeches which have won him a European +reputation, though they are themselves surpassed by his lightning humour +and uncompromising common sense in the cut and thrust of debate. "Time," +he said, "circumstances, and the age-long struggles for freedom by men +who held liberty dearer than life, have fashioned the constitution under +which we live. The monarchy is an integral part of it. If Britain +decided to adopt a republican form of Government that would be the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> +end of the Empire as we know it to-day. The Empire has grown. It is, if +you like, the most illogical of institutions. It is composed of many +free nations very jealous of their own rights, and brooking no +interference with these. Yet, to the outside world, it is, in time of +danger, one. And the institution which binds all these together is the +Monarchy of England." The Prince in reply declared that there was no +finer body of men than those which Australia sent to represent her in +the various theatres of the war. He went on to sum up the aspirations of +Australia in the words of Sir Edmund Barton, "a continent for a nation, +and a nation for a continent," and evoked a storm of cheering when he +declared, "I am quite sure of one thing, that as Australia stands by the +Empire, so will the Empire stand by Australia for all time."</p> + +<p>The enthusiasm that characterized the Prince's entry into Sydney, and +the State and Commonwealth banquets given there in his honour, became if +possible more and not less accentuated as his visit wore on. Outstanding +everywhere was the tumultuous cordiality with which he was greeted by +enormous crowds. The same thing occurred at the races, at the gala +performance at His Majesty's Theatre, at the parade of returned men, at +a wonderful display by state school-children, also when he entered the +chief military hospital beneath an arch of crutches, and when fifty +thousand people passed before him in the town-hall.</p> + +<p>The whole was an experience which can never be forgotten by any of those +who had the good fortune to be there. The popular reception in the +town-hall was especially impressive. Here, standing on the dais in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> +the centre of this fine building, the Lord Mayor of Sydney alongside, +and a number of ministers, judges and soldiers, grouped about him, the +Prince, in plain grey jacket suit and soft brown hat, received the +salutes of a great multitude of men, women and children—the blind +man led by friends, the old lady who must see the Prince before she +died, the baby who would be able to say in years to come that it was +present. The people were shepherded past by members of the local police, +for whose patience and courtesy it is impossible to express too great +admiration, in one long, smiling, curtsying, hat-doffing stream. +Numerous barriers had been erected, but there was no crushing whatever. +It was a demonstration of orderliness and public spirit of the very +best.</p> + +<p>Another picturesque function was where, under the twinkling pendants of +the big chandeliers in the ballroom of Sydney's Government House, +beneath the portrait of his ancestor George III, and before a brilliant +assemblage of naval and military officers, judges, ministers, civic +authorities, and members of consular bodies, the Prince shook hands with +several hundreds of representative men belonging to all sections and +communities of the Australian continent. Interesting also was the day he +spent amongst the young folk. It began with a visit to the Sydney +Cricket-Ground where twelve thousand children of the local Government +primary schools, headed by Mr. Mutch, Minister for Education, Mr. Board, +Director of Education, and Colonel Strong, Chairman of the Executive +Committee, organized and supervised a picturesque exhibition of physical +drill. The children deployed upon the grass in the centre, where they +went through evolutions and exercises, and arranged themselves so as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> +to form patriotic emblems and messages of welcome. Fifty thousand +parents and relations occupied gigantic stands around the ground and +added a bass to the treble of the children's cheering.</p> + +<p>Later on the Prince proceeded to the University. On the way he passed +through some of the less fashionable quarters of Sydney, where he was +warmly received by crowds consisting largely of artisans, amongst whom +his popularity seemed to grow each day he remained in Australia. At +the University, a place with fine buildings, in pleasant country +surroundings, on the outskirts of the city, he was cheered by some two +thousand undergraduates, five hundred girl students, and a big gathering +of graduates and members of their families. The great hall, with +stained-glass mullioned windows, dark grained timber roof and grey stone +walls, broken by a long array of mellowing oil portraits, where the +Chancellor, Sir William Cullen, read an address, recalled the beautiful +precincts of Christchurch, Oxford, upon which it appears to be designed. +The feeling of home was heightened, alike by stained-glass portraits of +Cardinal Wolsey and other famous founders of Oxford and Cambridge +colleges, and by the presence in the assemblage of a number of red and +black Oxford hoods amongst the grey ones worn by graduates of the Sydney +University. The gathering included a fine body of students in uniform, +many of them wearing war-decorations won overseas. The blue and gold +flag of the University corps occupied a place of honour at one end.</p> + +<p>Replying to the address, the Prince referred to the profoundly important +work the Sydney University was doing, and its splendid record in the +war, and went on to say: "The generation which faced the war ennobled +your traditions, fine as those already were, and left a great example of +personal service to the King and Empire for the present generation to +pursue."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo128.png" width="600" height="461" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />GOVERNMENT HOUSE GARDENS, NEW SOUTH WALES<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo128a.png" width="600" height="413" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />PERTH, FROM THE KING'S PARK<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p> + +<p>Replying later to an undergraduate address read by Captain Allen, M.C., +the Prince said: "You have referred to my comradeship with your own two +thousand fellow students who went to the front in the great war, and I +assure you there is no part of my experience which I value more than my +long association with those gallant troops, both officers and men." +Concluding he said: "Many of you are now completing or beginning a +university course after service in the field. I hope that these will not +find themselves handicapped by the time they spent overseas." It was a +hope that perhaps the easier conditions and nearer prospects of young +life in Australia may well fulfil. In any case its expression was one of +the many graceful gestures of consideration that did so much to bring +the Prince close to the hearts of the people of that country.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a>XIV</h2> + +<h2>SOME COMMONWEALTH AFFAIRS</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">"One heritage we share though seas divide" surmounted one of the +decorated arches on the route traversed by the Prince on the day of the +military review at the Centennial Park, Sydney—a phrase no doubt, +but one that expressed the sentiment which pervaded this striking +occasion. Major-General Sir Charles Rosenthal commanded the parade, +which included a naval detachment under Lt.-Commander Patrick, a body of +Light Horse under Major-General Ryrie, and portions of five Divisions +respectively under Brigadiers Bennett, Martin, Jobson, Herring, and +Christian. The command was made up entirely of demobilized men, who, +despite cold grey weather on a full working day, had donned service +uniform and assembled—many of them from long distances—to do +honour to the heir to the Throne. The numbers present were not precisely +ascertainable, as the men were not under discipline, but had turned up +of their own accord. Estimates of how many attended therefore varied +considerably, but any number up to twenty thousand may have been there.</p> + +<p>When the Prince reached the ground he found the units drawn up in +formation about half a mile in length in front of him. Long lines of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> +bath-chairs and motors were on his left, filled with disabled men who +had been brought from sanatoria and hospitals in the districts around. +Behind him some thirty thousand spectators joined in the cheering. The +Prince went down the lines, shook hands with all the officers and spoke +to a number of the men. He also shook hands with every disabled soldier +present. The proceedings terminated with a general march past in column, +so arranged that the disabled men could see their old regiments go by.</p> + +<p>A sequel to the military review was a visit a few days later to Duntroon +College, the Sandhurst of Australia. Daylight on the shortest day in the +Australian mid-winter found the Royal train, now on the standard +four-feet-eight-inch gauge of New South Wales, speeding through dry, +rolling country, dotted with occasional blue gums beneath whose tattered +foliage sheep were picking a wholesome meal. Bright sunshine reminded +one that it was Australia, though the cold wind, which drove clouds of +dust and grit into our faces, might have been from a March east in +England. At the township of Queanbeyan, where the Prince changed into a +motor-car, the entire population had assembled and the usual ceremonies +of welcome were gone through. The country beyond Queanbeyan was open, +and barbed wire fences bounded the road on either side most of the way +to Duntroon, which proved to be a pleasant garden township of +white-walled houses, set upon a low hill amongst many trees.</p> + +<p>Senator Pearce, Commonwealth Minister for Defence, and General Legge, +Commandant of the College, with a group of red-tabbed field officers, +received the Prince on a sheltered lawn overlooking a wide grassy plain +reserved for aeroplane manœuvres. Those presented included a number<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> +of the professors whose rank between soldier and pedagogue was quaintly +expressed by their black mortar-boards and college gowns which only +partially concealed service uniforms and war-decorations. The Prince +afterwards saw the cadets at exercise in the gymnasium, and took the +salute of one hundred and twenty of them as they marched smartly past on +the parade ground. Addressing them afterwards in the big mess-hall at +the dinner-hour, he recalled the fine war history of the college, which +had lost no less than forty-eight of its students in battle, and was +cheered when he repeated the story of that gallant soldier General +Bridges, who had found his way from the Kingston Military College, in +Canada, to make a new Kingston in Duntroon, and to lead Duntroon's first +contingent of trained officers to Gallipoli, where he himself was +killed.</p> + +<p>It was dinner-time and "Carry on" was the word passed round to the +cadets, when H.R.H. had finished his speech, and the cheering had +momentarily died down. The soup was then served at all the tables, but +it must have grown cold while cheer after cheer followed the Prince as +he left the hall and re-entered his motor <i>en route</i> for Canberra, a +place only a few miles distant.</p> + +<p>The way from Duntroon climbed slowly through undulating, park-like +country, dotted with blue gums, two thousand feet above sea level. +Freshly made roads, with water-pipes and sewers laid on, presently +indicated that the site of the much debated new capital of the +Commonwealth had been reached. The scene continued to be rural, however. +The pleasant stream, which meandered amongst willow trees and grassy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +solitudes at the foot of the hill—where the Prince subsequently +added a foundation-stone to the already considerable number of these +expressions of hope and faith—might have been a hundred miles from +civilization of any kind. The little river gave to the scene that touch +of verdure so grateful in the dry and dusty bush, and one day will +doubtless be spanned by the arched bridges of the Commonwealth's +capital. At present it must be confessed that the metropolis is hardly +more than a sketch of itself, and a sketch that presents no very +distinctive features.</p> + +<p>The importance of Canberra, however, is not to be judged from the +present condition of the site. As the Prince pointed out in his speech +at the ceremony, although the city still consists largely of +foundation-stones, this is chiefly because the war has delayed progress +with the scheme of construction. Mr. Groom, Commonwealth Minister for +Public Works, who presided, summed up the position when he said, +"Victory having been happily achieved, once more the mind of the nation +is reverting to the provision of a national seat of Government where +Australia will be mistress in her own house, and where there will be no +room for the complaint of provincial influence in pursuit of national +aims." The idea thus expressed that the Commonwealth administration +should have a territory of its own, away from the influence of any +individual state, holds the imagination of the majority of Australians. +It is an idea that has worked out satisfactorily alike in Canada and the +United States, where the circumstances, which justified the building of +Ottawa and Washington in the past, are essentially similar to those of +Australia to-day. The fact that India's endeavours at capital building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> +at Delhi may not yet have met with corresponding success, does not +affect the matter, since the conditions in a bureaucracy differ +essentially from those obtaining in the democratic association of +self-determining Dominions.</p> + +<p>Public opinion in Sydney supports the Canberra scheme on the practical +ground that it will bring the Commonwealth capital nearer to itself. +Melbourne is naturally lukewarm, since the present arrangement whereby +the central legislature meets there, so long as Canberra does not +materialize, is one that local pride desires to see continue as long +as possible. The remainder of the States, while not very actively +enthusiastic about a scheme which must necessarily divert a large sum of +public money from railway and other useful local projects, recognizes +that the atmosphere surrounding the Commonwealth Government would be +none the worse for being removed from the wire-pullings of state +politics. Scenic beauty, healthfulness, a good water-supply, and +accessibility to the two principal Commonwealth centres of population +and industry, combine to justify the choice of Canberra for the purpose +concerned, and the fact that a sum of some two million sterling of +public money has already been sunk in preparing the site, increases the +probability that the scheme will eventually be brought to completion.</p> + +<p>One of the party accompanying the Prince on his visit to Canberra was a +minister of state, who loved to tell how he had left his home in the +Canberra district on a push-bike to seek his fortune twenty years +before, now to return, in company with the Prince of Wales and as the +responsible head of an important Government department. Like every one +else who knows this part of the country, he overflowed with enthusiasm<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> +as to the healthful prospects of its future. It was from him, I believe, +that the Prince first heard the ancient tale of the cemetery for which, +after long and infructuous waiting upon local necessity, the inhabitants +were driven to import a corpse from outside. That cemetery has served +many a rising town. It must be closed by now except for purposes of +historical research, but no doubt Canberra's claim to it will be +justified when the time comes.</p> + +<p>Another expedition from Sydney was by train and launch, up the +Hawkesbury river, and on to Newcastle. On this occasion the Prince was +accompanied by the entire New South Wales Labour Cabinet, including +Premier Storey. One of the features of the trip was a remarkable +demonstration on the part of the men working in the Sydney railway +sheds, who assembled in large numbers along the line, and shouted good +wishes as the Prince's train went out. Every engine in the big station +yard at the same time blew a shrill accord on its whistle, a choral +accompaniment which was as convincing as it was deafening.</p> + +<p>Addresses were presented, on the way, at the towns of <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Paramatta'">Parramatta</ins> and +Windsor, while the residents, along fifty miles of the river traversed +by the Royal launch, assembled at the water's edge and waved flags and +cheered as the Prince went through what is probably one of the most +beautiful water-ways in the world. At Hawkesbury River Landing, where +the Prince rejoined the train and met a number of mothers and widows of +men fallen in the war, the entire station had been decorated by the +unpaid labour of those working upon the line. At Fassifern, which he +went through after nightfall, the entire valley was lighted up by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +bonfires, and the station and wharf at the small township of Toronto, +where the Prince spent a night at the house of Mr. Duncan McGeachie, was +a fantasy of Chinese lanterns.</p> + +<p>The following morning the Prince received and replied to an address on +the local pier which juts out into the beautiful Macquarie lake. Here, +waving over his head, was a Canadian flag, presented to this Australian +namesake by the capital city of Ontario. From Toronto the Prince was +taken by train past a number of the pit-heads of one of the richest +mining districts in Australia, at that time supplying coal at the very +reasonable price of seventeen shillings per ton f.o.b. on the seaboard. +Every heap of slack and every railway truck, as the Prince's train went +by, had upon it a contingent of miners who cheered in a way to warm the +coldest heart.</p> + +<p>Newcastle, the second city of New South Wales, was reached at noon. The +Prince, on alighting, was received by the Mayor and Corporation, +supported by a smart guard-of-honour of naval cadets and an immense +crowd of spectators. He crossed the harbour by launch and landed on the +low marshy foreshore of Walsh Island. Here he shook hands with a long +line of returned men, employed in the shipbuilding yards, who gave him a +most cordial reception. Similar scenes were repeated, at least half a +dozen times in the course of the day, at the entrance to each set of +works. At Walsh Island, over which he was conducted by Mr. Estell, State +Minister of Works, and Mr. Cutler, General Manager, New South Wales +Shipbuilding, he launched a fine six-thousand-ton freight steamer, built +by state enterprise on behalf of the Commonwealth Government. The +launching was to have taken place at flood tide, but, owing to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +postponement of the Prince's visit, had to be done at the ebb. A +strong west wind on the ship's quarter added to the difficulty of the +undertaking which was entirely overcome, the ship taking the water +beautifully.</p> + +<p>These vessels are an interesting example of state enterprise in New +South Wales. They are designed to carry produce away from Australia, and +to bring British emigrants back. There was at the time plenty of demand +for their services, as thousands of would-be settlers were awaiting +passages in the old country, and wheat was rotting in Australian +granaries that was badly wanted to reduce prices of bread in Europe. The +claim was made for them that they were being built at rates materially +lower than those offering for the construction of similar vessels in any +dockyard in the world at the time the contracts were given out. The +cost, I was told, ranged from £31 per ton until the last rise in wages +took place, which brought the rate up to about £35. At the time of the +Prince's visit no workman employed in the yard was receiving less than +fourteen shillings and fourpence daily, the average being very much +higher than this figure. The vessel launched was the fifth of six +uniform steamers under state construction. The four previously completed +had been rated "A1" at Lloyds.</p> + +<p>After leaving the Government dockyard, the Prince was taken over works +of private enterprise of even larger significance, the steel-furnaces, +rolling-mills and rod-mills of the Broken Hill Proprietary Company, +which are also located in Newcastle. Here he was conducted by Mr. +Delprat, general manager, and Mr. Baker, local manager, and saw the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +whole of the processes, from the emptying of three open-hearth blast +furnaces, to the conversion of glowing molten steel into 72-lb. railway +rails, of which these works claim to have manufactured, last year, some +hundred and sixty thousand tons. The capacity of the works is very much +larger even than this amount, two separate strikes having reduced +out-turn in this period. The price paid for these rails by the various +state railways in Australia, which now depend almost entirely upon this +source of supply, was thirteen pounds per ton. I learnt also that the +average pay of the labour employed in the works was about one pound +sterling daily per man. The profit upon the £4,000,000 capital of the +concern is such that its one-pound shares were quoted in the Sydney +Stock Exchange the day the Prince went over the works at sixty-four +shillings apiece.</p> + +<p>After seeing the steel-works, the Prince was conducted by Mr. MacDougall +over a neighbouring wire and nail factory, which claims to be now +filling the entire demand of Australia for plain-wire fencing. The firm +was preparing to set up additional machinery upon a large scale to +make barbed wire which Australia has hitherto bought in Europe. The +significance of this development is considerable, since barbed wire +forms the top, as smooth wire does the lower strands, of fences of which +hundreds of thousands of miles are already in existence in Australia, +and millions of miles more have still to be built.</p> + +<p>After leaving the wire-works, the Prince drove in procession, through +decorated, crowded, cheering streets, to a sheltered park overlooking +the Pacific, where thirty thousand people had assembled and Mayor +Gibson read a civic address. In the course of his reply the Prince<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> +dwelt upon the remarkable industrial development of Newcastle. "Your +harbour," he noted, "your shipping facilities and your manufactures have +greatly enhanced the importance this district has possessed from the +earliest date on account of its rich deposits of coal."</p> + +<p>Leaving Newcastle in the afternoon by train, the Prince returned to +Sydney through a pleasant land of tidy orange plantations and ragged +blue-gum bush. On the way he held a reception in the city of Gosford, +and saw further reaches of the beautiful Hawkesbury river. A record +crowd cheered him at Sydney railway station, and along the route to the +harbour where he rejoined the <i>Renown</i>.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XV" id="XV"></a>XV</h2> + +<h2>WESTERN AUSTRALIA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The Prince went from Sydney two thousand miles by sea to Western +Australia, a state as large as the combined areas of England, France, +Germany, Austria, Spain, and Holland, with a population of less than +half a million people to develop this stupendous territory.</p> + +<p>On the way, in traversing the Australian Bight, that borders the +southern coast of the continent, the <i>Renown</i> encountered weather +remarkably bad even for this region of frequent gales. Green seas swept +over forecastle and quarter-deck alike. The engines were slowed down. +The big ship strained, clanked, and groaned, but proved her +seaworthiness magnificently. The waves were still high in King George's +Sound outside Albany, where owing to shallow water the <i>Renown</i> had to +lie four miles from land in a wide and but partially sheltered bay. +Where the shore could be seen it lay in rocky grass-grown hummocks, on +which the surf beat heavily. A picket boat conveyed the Prince and his +staff through a narrow entrance into the small landlocked harbour, where +they landed on a desolate pier, wet decorations flapping dismally in +cold wind and spray. The entire population had turned out, however, +despite the weather. The Governor of Western Australia, Sir Francis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> +Newdegate, the State Premier, Mr. Mitchell, and a number of other +members of the Government awaited the Prince upon the pier. The Mayor of +Albany read an address from a wind-swept platform in front of a town +hall prominently situated on a low hill facing a wide street that led +down to the harbour. The crowd here was a varied one. It included +traders, merchants, commission-agents, and manufacturers belonging to +Albany itself, also large numbers of fruit-growers and farmers from +stations in the interior of this prosperous land of orchards and +wheatfields. Gatherings of returned soldiers and school children, also +nurses and other war-workers flanked the general assemblage. A night +train journey followed through rolling country and bush, with arable +fields, apple orchards and orange gardens which looked most attractive +next morning in brilliant sunshine in the freshest of rain-washed air.</p> + +<p>The Prince was cheered by gatherings at many wayside stations, including +Parkerville, where a number of children, in charge of gentle-faced +sisters in black robes, sang patriotic songs in the chill morning air as +the train went through. About noon he alighted at Perth, capital of +Western Australia, an extraordinarily beautiful city, with wide streets +and solid masonry houses, situated on the low banks of the picturesque +Swan River—here so wide as to be almost a lagoon.</p> + +<p>The streets were decorated and lined with cheerful people. Those who +received the Prince included the Governor, the State Premier, the Mayor, +Mr. Lathlain, the Chief Justice, Sir R. MacMillan, the leader of the +State Opposition, Mr. P. Collier, the Chairman of the Reception<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> +Committee, General Sir Talbot Hobbs, also most of the other members of +the local houses of Parliament and of the Perth municipal corporation. +The Prince went through the usual inspection of naval and military +guards-of-honour, and then proceeded by motor-car through the city, +which looked delightfully fresh in bright winter sunshine. The crowd was +lined up behind wooden barriers on either side of a lane kept by +blue-jackets from H.M.A.S. <i>Sydney</i>, also men of the Royal Australian +Naval Reserve, and returned soldiers, cadets and scouts. The route taken +was some two miles in length. It lay through the principal business and +residential streets, the crowd extending the entire distance, clapping, +cheering, laughing and flag-waving as the Prince went by. The procession +disappeared inside the shady grounds of Government House, a place of +green lawns and rose-bushes blossoming in the shade of banana-trees and +Insignis pines.</p> + +<p>Later on H.R.H. visited the principal theatre, where he addressed +several thousand returned sailors, soldiers and nurses. He congratulated +them on their services, alike during the war and since their return +home, where they had shown that they stood for the maintenance of law +and order. From the theatre the Prince went on to a big civic luncheon +in the Town Hall, where Mayor Lathlain told an appreciative audience of +their guest's keen personal interest in the welfare of the people of the +Dominions. He also mentioned the fact that the Prince had come as +representing "the dear old Motherland, the heart of the Empire, the land +upon whose Navy so largely depends Australia's ability to carry on her +peaceful avocations." H.R.H. was loudly cheered when he rose to reply,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> +and his pleasant little speech evoked the greatest enthusiasm. He +felicitated Perth and Western Australia generally upon their wonderful +progress, of which much had been achieved within the memory of the +present generation. He said he knew Western Australia's record in the +Great War, and desired also to congratulate its women—alike those +who had gone abroad and those who had worked at home. An investiture at +Government House and a State ball completed the day's work.</p> + +<p>The visit to Perth lasted about a week. It had several memorable +features, among them a review, when, in a wide thoroughfare bordered by +pleasant residences bearing such British names as Ilfracombe, Warwick +House, and St. George's Terrace, the Prince stood, framed in a +background of crowded grandstands, taking the salutes of a number of +thousands of Australians, including a solid contingent of blue-jackets, +a yet larger one of returned soldiers, some in khaki, some in mufti, +cohorts of cadets and boy scouts, both naval and military, phalanxes of +red cross nurses in smart white dresses, and girl guides in a dense +column of blue, followed by what seemed an endless procession of +children, every school within ten miles of Perth being represented.</p> + +<p>From the review the Prince went to Mayor Lathlain's "people's +garden-party" in the National Park. Here upon a dais beneath a statue of +his great grandmother, Queen Victoria, in the shelter of big +timber-trees, commanding a magnificent view of the city and the river, +he stood for an hour while the people of Perth streamed past in column. +Babies were carried pick-a-back on their fathers' shoulders, men doffed +hats, mothers and daughters waved hands, handkerchiefs or flags, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> +they passed. One old lady delayed the line to shake hands with him, but +accepted the Admiral's clasp as a makeshift, the Prince being too busy +taking off his hat and returning eight smiles at a time to have a hand +to spare. Everybody was so engrossed gazing at the visitor, every head +turning on its neck for a long backward glance after the dais had been +passed, that hardly an eye was drawn off when a noisy aeroplane, which +had been stunting unnoticed in the Prince's honour overhead, suddenly +swooped out of intolerable oblivion to within a hundred feet of him.</p> + +<p>A further notable function was the State banquet at Perth Government +House. Here were present all the leaders of thought and enterprise in +Western Australia, politicians, administrators, squatters, settlers, +traders, naval and military commanders, ministers, judges, ten V.C.'s, +and everybody else who counted. Grace was said by that soldierly +episcopal, Archbishop Riley, who, as a Chaplain-in-Chief of the +Australian forces in the field, is known and loved from one end of +Australia to the other. The Prince's health was proposed by Premier +Mitchell. After it had been drunk with the usual cheering and waving of +napkins, H.R.H. made a speech. "Your policy," he said, "is to draw +settlers from the old country, at the same time ensuring that they shall +not suffer from lack of experience when they are first put upon the land +of their adopted country. I am delighted to hear that you are giving to +Imperial ex-service men the same chance of starting life upon the land +when they arrive in this state, as you give your own diggers. I can +think of no more admirable way than this of continuing the splendid +traditions of the war and maintaining our united British spirit." It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +was a note which has often been sounded since to appreciation and +applause throughout the Empire.</p> + +<p>One of the expeditions made from the state capital was by launch down +the wide placid reaches of the Swan River, still the haunt of the black +swan, emblem of Western Australia, to hold a reception at the port of +Fremantle, some ten miles distant, where the river joins the sea. No +black swans graced the occasion, only an occasional porpoise leapt +alongside the launch as it entered the estuary. The entire population of +the countryside lined the banks as the vessel went past, every village, +settlement, and factory <i>en route</i> contributing its quota, which in the +case of saw-mills, cold-storage plant and electricity works, consisted +almost entirely of workmen.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Fremantle the entire city was found awaiting the Prince, +crowding the pier and lined up along the streets. Naval and military +guards-of-honour, with bands, saluted. The chairman and members of the +Harbour Trust and the Mayor and members of the city council stood +bare-headed as he made his landing. From the pier he was conducted in +procession, first to a picturesque display by thousands of children, and +afterwards to the big "Anzac" military hospital where convalescent +patients were drawn up with doctors and nurses outside, and where the +warmth of the cheers that came from the wards, where he went round the +beds of those too ill to move, was more than touching.</p> + +<p>Speaking later at a civic luncheon, the Prince looked forward to +Fremantle's eventually becoming one of the leading harbours in the +Empire, the importance of its position as the first port of call on +the western seaboard being emphasized by the completion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +trans-continental railway. Returning to Perth later in the afternoon by +motor-car, he was taken through the magnificent National Park, a +well-kept forest upland, full of fine timber, including a whole avenue, +each individual tree dedicated to some West Australian soldier fallen +in the war. Just before entering this park, the Prince passed some +thousands of children drawn from schools in the Cottesloe, Claremont and +Subiaco municipal areas, who stood hardily in the rain in the open to +wave their flags and sing their patriotic songs.</p> + +<p>Still another rewarding expedition was by car to some of the fruit +gardens near Perth. Orange groves in the dips and apple orchards on the +rising slopes made odd neighbours. The apple-trees were bare, but +oranges hung in the golden profusion of Malta or Seville. Fifty acres of +this fruit in some cases meant a clear income of over a thousand pounds +per annum to the fortunate owner after paying for all labour other than +his own. The orchard zone was near the coast. Further inland is one of +the wide wheat-belts which feed Australia and furnish a surplus for +Great Britain. Beyond this again begin the cattle-stations of the Great +North-West. Perth was buzzing with the Great North-West. A commission +composed of parliamentarians and publicists had just returned, loaded +with information and optimism, from a two-thousand mile expedition +through it by motor. In addition the highways were blocked and the views +were obscured by mountainous men, full of deep cocktails and deliberate +conversation, who had descended from this region for the occasion of the +Prince's visit. Some of these genial giants worked, as private pasture, +areas ranging to over two million acres. They seemed in themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +a sufficient indication of what the country could produce, and an +adequate reason for railway enterprise in their direction. In this state +land nationalizes may note the character of the movement towards small +holdings. It has recently been laid down that no peasant or other +proprietor shall obtain a fresh grant of more than one million acres. +Not a long step toward communistic property, but possibly a beginning.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a>XVI</h2> + +<h2>WHEAT, GOLD, AND LOGGING</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The state saw-mills and logging-camps of Pemberton, about a hundred +miles southward along the coast, made an important fixture from Perth. +On this occasion the Prince was accompanied by the Premier and other +members of the West Australian State Government and was conducted by Mr. +Humphries, state saw-mills manager. He was taken over mills where the +enduring Karri trees in trunks sixty feet long and seven feet through +were being sliced by revolving saws into uniform railway sleepers for +export. He also made his way, in heavy rain, partly by railway and +partly on foot, up gorges of great natural beauty in the heart of a +dripping forest, himself took a hand with sinewy axe-men and sturdy +sawyers, in the felling of these giant trees, and saw their subsequent +extraction from swampy thickets by teams each comprising, in some cases, +twenty-four splendid locally bred Clydesdale horses, in others a score +and a half of equally fine Australian bullocks.</p> + +<p>In the presence of a gathering of the entire logging force and their +wives and children, who gave him the most cordial reception, the Prince +afterwards presided at a local log-chopping contest in which champion +woodmen from all parts of Western Australia competed. The excitement<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> +of the forest community of onlookers was intense, and considerable sums +changed hands upon the result. The men were given trunks of as nearly +as possible equal thickness and hardness to hew through. The less +proficient received a certain number of seconds' start. Axes fell with +marvellous rapidity and precision, slices rather than chips flew +incredible distances in pre-ordained directions—it was a +remarkable exhibition of muscle rivalling machinery. One of the +long-handicap men eventually won from the scratch competitor, a +magnificent young giant who was about a second behind. The logs cut +through were about fifteen inches in diameter. Most of the axes used +bore the names of American manufacturers, and had edges still razor-like +after the contest was over.</p> + +<p>A fine exhibition of table-vegetables, grown in pockets in the +neighbouring hills, was also shown to the Prince. Rich land close to the +railway suitable for market-gardening and already cleared is to be had +in this region, it seems, at £25 per acre. It is claimed to produce per +acre from six to nine tons of potatoes, which were fetching on the spot +£12 per ton. The principal prize-winner was a Scotch gardener, who told +the Prince he had come but six years previously without any capital +whatever, and that his holding was now clear of debt and valued at +£1,300.</p> + +<p>On the way back to Perth the Prince had his first and only experience +during the tour of a railway accident. Speaking of it in a reply to the +toast of his health at a public dinner at Perth, a few days after it +occurred, Premier Mitchell expressed thankfulness that the Prince had +escaped unhurt. His Royal Highness in reply treated the matter from a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> +humorous point of view. He did not regret, he said, to have been able to +add a harmless railway accident to his Australian experiences. The +mishap was very much nearer to being a disastrous one, however, than +this would suggest. It occurred on a single-track, three-foot-six-inch +line, in swampy Westralian forest, some ten miles from the township of +Bridgetown. The Royal train was a heavy one, consisting of some nine +corridor sleeping coaches. It had passed over the spot, which was on a +curve, the same morning on the way to Pemberton. Heavy rain fell in the +course of the day, and on the return journey at about three o'clock in +the afternoon, the track had become so soft that the rails gave way.</p> + +<p>The train was, fortunately, only going at about fifteen miles an hour at +the time, having had to slow down owing to cattle on the lines. The rear +saloon, which was occupied by H.R.H. and Admiral Halsey, seems to have +been the first to leave the line. The saloon immediately in front, which +contained the remainder of the Royal staff and most of the state party, +afterwards followed it. The derailed wheels then bumped along over the +sleepers, which they cut up in the most complete manner, the line for +two hundred and thirty yards being converted into a tangled mass of +twisted rails and broken splinters. The engine-driver felt the jolting +and applied the brakes. This happily took the way off the train, for a +moment later the two derailed vehicles rolled over the soft embankment, +here a couple of feet high, and lay on the ground below, all their +wheels in the air. The train came to a standstill, the coupling between +the wrecked and the unwrecked portions remaining intact. The Prince<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +and his staff were still inside. Heads quickly appeared through windows +now pointing to the sky, and the occupants of the front saloons, who +had hastily jumped out, learnt to their relief that nobody had been +seriously hurt. One after another the members of the Royal party, +including the Premier and other state ministers, were extricated through +the windows, now the only means of egress.</p> + +<p>While this was happening smoke began to issue from the first of the two +overturned saloons. Investigation showed that this was from the cooks' +galley, which, in falling, had set the saloon on fire. The flames were +promptly extinguished with water brought from the portion of the train +still upon the rails. Ten minutes later the Prince, who had declined to +move till he had collected his overturned papers, cheerfully climbed +out, being thus, sailor-like, the last to leave the wreck. He had been +talking to Admiral Halsey when the derailment took place, and was pinned +between overturned pieces of furniture when the coach rolled over, thus +escaping falling through the plate-glass window, a thing which occurred +to several members of the party, including the Premier. The only person +at all materially hurt, however, was Surgeon-Commander Newport, the +Prince's doctor, who cut his shin rather badly when he went through the +window, an incredibly small casualty list for the nature of the +accident.</p> + +<p>All the fittings that were movable flew through the air when the upset +took place. A large mirror in the Prince's compartment was amongst the +articles which crashed to the ground. The mix-up and disorder of broken +furniture, crockery and luggage inside was most complete.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Prince himself, at the time as later, made nothing of the matter. He +caught up a cocktail-mixer as he climbed through his overturned dining +saloon, and waved it out of the window by which he extricated himself. +He congratulated the Chief of the Staff, with mock seriousness, at +having at last arranged something for him that was not on the official +programme. He laughed away the anxious expressions of regret of the +railway and other state officials responsible in the affair, and did his +utmost to convey the impression that the overturning of the Royal train +was an occurrence so trifling as to be hardly worth mentioning.</p> + +<p>The party were soon transferred to the front portion of the train which +was still upon the rails. The wreckage was cut loose, and the journey +was continued to Bridgetown, the next halting place on the programme. +Here the Prince carried through, in the most undisturbed manner, the +whole of the prearranged ceremonial of inspecting guards-of-honour, +shaking hands with returned soldiers, greeting relations of the fallen, +receiving war-workers, reviewing assemblies of children, and replying to +a municipal address. He made no mention of the railway accident in his +speech, but excused himself for having arrived late, as if this had been +due to a fault of his own.</p> + +<p>It was not possible, however, to prevent the circulation of news of the +occurrence, and it made a sensation throughout Australia. Telegrams of +congratulation at his escape poured in from every state and principal +town. Thanksgiving services were held in the leading churches, and +everywhere it was recognized that what might have been a disaster had +been very narrowly avoided, and that the Prince had shown much spirit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +in a situation of no little danger. His return to Perth was a triumphal +procession. Every wayside station was crowded with cheering people as +the train ran through. Perth received him with open arms. A bigger +assemblage than ever welcomed him as he drove from the railway station +to Government House, and the crowd plainly showed its impression that he +had taken a bit of rough luck in the best Australian manner.</p> + +<p>Finally departing from Perth, a few days later, the Prince was sped on +his way by large cheering crowds which not only lined the streets as he +drove to the railway station, but every wayside platform as well. The +route soon left the plain by the seashore and entered foothills clothed +with shady <i>jarrah</i> forest. Thence it mounted to the spacious uplands of +the green rolling wheat-zone, where the young crop carpeted the expanse +for a hundred miles along the way.</p> + +<p>West Australia raises some twelve million bushels of wheat annually, of +which nine millions are exported. It is estimated that the out-turn could +be increased to forty million bushels if more population were available, +as thirty-four million acres have been reported suitable for wheat +growing in this state, and eleven bushels per acre are looked upon as an +average yield. A thousand acres, which can be secured on very easy +terms, is an average holding. Such a farm worked by one man would +ordinarily have three hundred acres under wheat, and would also support +two hundred and fifty sheep. Many properties of this kind are in the +hands of owners who began without either capital or education, yet have +paid off all mortgages and are living in very substantial comfort. The +children start under infinitely more favourable circumstances than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +their parents, for not only are savings usually available to establish +them in business on their own account, but they have the advantage of an +excellent system of state-aided education which provides a school +wherever a minimum of ten children can be brought together. Public help +is also given to pay for qualified resident teachers in localities too +isolated to enable the minimum school to be assembled. A mileage +allowance is paid by the State for children who have to travel any +considerable distance to school. Education department correspondence +courses are also conducted with surprisingly satisfactory results for +the benefit of youngsters on farms out of reach of any of the other aids +to learning. It is not only the children who benefit. Their parents +often learn much themselves in endeavouring to help their families to +assimilate the lessons that the correspondence teacher at a distance is +sending by post to the schoolroom under the hayrick or by the evening +fire.</p> + +<p>An hour after leaving Perth the track picked up the Kalgoorlie water +main, which thereafter ran beside the rails, a half-buried steel conduit +thirty inches thick, all the way to the goldfields. This water main is +one of the most wonderful in the world. It daily delivers at the mines +five million gallons of pure water, after conveying it 350 miles from +the Mundaring Reservoir. This reservoir has a masonry weir a hundred +feet high, which has been built right across a river-valley, thereby +impounding the water and forming a lake seven miles long, holding four +seasons' supply. The difficulty of building the works was much increased +by the height up which the water has to be forced in the course of its +journey. In all, the pipe-line climbs 1,290 feet between Mundaring +Reservoir and Bulla Bulling, the highest point upon the circuit, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +lift which requires some of the most powerful pumps in the world to +negotiate. The installation is essential for the people of Kalgoorlie, +whose city is in the midst of the desert, with no other source of supply +fit for human consumption, as the water that accumulates in the mine +workings is definitely brackish, though cattle will drink it in some +cases.</p> + +<p>Fine rain shaded off into showers as the train proceeded eastward. +Further on grey skies were replaced by brilliant sunshine. The country +grew continually drier; wheatfields changed into scraggy forest. The +forest thinned out and was succeeded by vast expanses of nondescript +scrub and desolate bluish salt bush, through which the train sped +throughout the night. When the Prince awoke the following morning he was +in desert country. Coolgardie, his first stepping-off place, proved to +be a dying city. Its original sixteen thousand inhabitants are now +represented by only a few hundreds. The majority have moved to the still +active mines of Kalgoorlie. Many lie in France, for no community +enlisted more freely or fought more bravely than did the men of this +far-off town. All that were left had turned out to meet the Prince. It +was a curious assemblage, largely consisting of men past work and women +and children, who still cling to wooden shanties fast falling into +decay, amidst spoil heaps and ruins of fine public buildings, a +great place once but a sad spectacle now. The big water main enters +Coolgardie, and is sparingly tapped there, but its contents are too +precious to be used for irrigation by the way, and without water for +this purpose it was impossible for Coolgardie to follow the example of +Ballarat in turning its miners into cultivators when the gold gave<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +out. The shy buzzard of the desert now perches fearlessly where once was +heavy traffic. The wild dingo has come in from the plains, and makes its +home in what were once busy crushing mills and palatial business houses. +Soon sand will cover what remains, and the salt bush will be supreme as +aforetime.</p> + +<p>Kalgoorlie, where the Prince next alighted, proved to be a very +different place. Here twenty-four thousand people were living in +prosperity, and are likely to continue in this position so long as their +reef goes on yielding its harvest of yellow ore. The visitor was +welcomed by a big crowd, including a large body of returned soldiers, of +whom two wore the Victoria Cross. He was given a cheerful luncheon by +the Chamber of Mines, at which the large company present were waited on +by daughters of the principal residents, who prepared, cooked and served +a banquet which could not have been surpassed anywhere. In the course of +his reply to a civic address later on, "I am looking forward," the +Prince said, "to my stay in this wonderful goldbearing area. I have +heard with admiration of the pioneering pluck and engineering skill +which have enabled this great city to be built and provided with all the +necessary services of a large population in country where water is so +scarce. I particularly prize the opportunity of making acquaintance with +the people who have placed this miracle of development to the credit of +British industry and enterprise. I am also much interested in the +terminus of the great Trans-Australian Railway which links you with the +eastern States of the Commonwealth."</p> + +<p>Before leaving Kalgoorlie the Prince visited workings on the forty-foot +thick reef of the "golden mile" which is being gradually nibbled away.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> +This reef, since its discovery a quarter of a century ago, has produced +seventy-four million sterling of gold. The profit of working it has not +kept pace with the increased cost of labour and machinery, but continues +to be appreciable, and large masses of paying quartz are still in +sight.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a>XVII</h2> + +<h2>THE NULLARBOR PLAIN</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">At Kalgoorlie the Prince left the simply equipped three-feet-six-inch +gauge of the West Australian State Railway, and continued his journey, +at forty miles an hour, on a luxuriously fitted and smooth-running train +on the standard gauge of the Trans-Australian line.</p> + +<p>In charge of the train was Mr. Norris Bell, the eminent engineer who +controlled the construction of the line, and is now running it in such a +way that, despite almost total absence of local traffic, it is nearly +paying its working expenses, a remarkable achievement considering the +desolate nature of the country through which it passes. The railway +connects the populous States of Victoria, New South Wales and South +Australia, with the vast and potentially rich, but presently +undeveloped, western territories. It is one of those imaginative +national enterprises undertaken by young countries, and is bound to be +justified by the generous policy of land development which usually +accompanies, though at present it draws its dividends from the future.</p> + +<p>The Nullarbor plain through which it passes is so devoid of rain that it +not only possesses no streams, but its level expanse is unscarred by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +even a dry water-course. It is almost absolutely flat for several +hundreds of miles, after which it undulates slightly, the folds being in +some cases occupied by lakes or tanks, most of which are so salt that +they are useless for either drinking or irrigation. Their banks form +desolate patches of gleaming white on the horizon, owing to the +crystallization of masses of salt upon them. In places where fresh water +is obtainable, it has usually to be pumped up from some depth below +ground. Wells are so far between that the train has to carry tanks large +enough to water the engine for two hundred miles without replenishment.</p> + +<p>The portion of the plain in which the Prince found himself, the morning +after leaving Kalgoorlie, was of red earth thickly sprinkled with white +stones of irregular shape, shaded by bunchy grey salt-bushes the size of +cabbages. These salt-bushes, dry and dusty as they appear, afford quite +good fodder for sheep. The plain, therefore, almost entirely rainless as +it is, only requires the provision of drinking-water to enable it to be +put to profitable use. Sheep-stations already exist upon it, wherever it +has been found possible to tap subsoil water sweet enough for the sheep +to drink, and with growing knowledge of this remarkable region, and +improved methods of purifying saline springs, it is hoped gradually to +convert much of what is now unproductive into sheep-raising areas.</p> + +<p>As the train rushed onward through the day, the stones became smaller +and eventually disappeared, and the salt-bushes grew gradually larger. +One lost the impression of moving through an interminable cabbage patch, +and felt as on a ship. The salt-bushes rippled over a calm expanse of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> +ocean extending on all sides to a far horizon.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon a halt was made and the Prince alighted and paid a +visit to a rude encampment of aborigines, who had travelled a hundred +miles on foot to meet him. They performed a number of weird ceremonial +dances before him, and gave an exhibition of their skill in the throwing +of boomerangs and spears. The performers were almost completely naked +men and boys, painted all over with red and other brilliant patches on a +whitish ground, whose only garment was a scanty rag of dirty cotton +cloth that could hardly be said even to encompass the waist. The dances +were slow, the performers sometimes stealing in single file round a +circle, sometimes springing as if to the attack, the while incantations +were chanted by miserable bundles of savage humanity, feminine as well +as masculine, who squatted upon the ground. The boomerang-throwing was a +much more lively affair. The air hummed with sharp wooden blades the +size and weight of reaping-hooks. About a dozen performers operated +simultaneously and each threw quite a number of these blades in quick +succession to immense heights, where they hovered like hawks, eventually +to descend with uncanny speed in a series of crooked swirls and +side-long rushes. The circles described were such that quite a wide area +was swept by flying blades each of which travelled on a complicated +orbit of its own, of extraordinary speed, the sharp edge continually +leading. It was explained that these boomerangs were of the hunting +type, and were used in practice chiefly against flights of duck, the +birds taking them for hawks and keeping low and thus within range +when they were in the air. The spear-throwing was also interesting. +The spears consisted of straight wooden shafts, like slim but heavy +bean-sticks, with a tapering charred point sharpened to acuteness, and +tail winged with a thin wooden slip the size of a biggish paper-knife. +These spears were thrown with marvellous force and precision, with an +action like that of overhand bowling, a sack stuffed with salt-bush +branches and crudely painted to represent a human face, being transfixed +again and again, in the centre, at sixty yards. These wretched people +appear to be rapidly dying out despite liberal grants from the +Commonwealth and State Governments to educate and feed them. In the +south they seem to be entirely incapable of learning even how to cook or +wash or build themselves shelters. In the north they are less degraded +and find employment on cattle-stations where some of them make excellent +stock-drivers, learning to ride well and handle animals.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo160.png" width="600" height="447" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />CROSSING THE NULLARBOR PLAIN<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo160a.png" width="600" height="365" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />ABORIGINAL DANCE<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p>The camp visited by the Prince was typical of the lowest amongst them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +It was being looked after by a cultivated Australian lady who was +devoting herself to the services of these poor creatures, who seemed to +be entirely dependent upon her, so incapable were they of fending for +themselves in any practical manner beyond that of adding to the larder +by the killing of a limited number of small animals. When left to +themselves, we were told, they seldom had more than twenty-four hours' +food supply within sight. Their intelligence does not even extend to the +keeping of provisions when supplied with them in any quantity beyond +what they can devour upon the spot.</p> + +<p>Another picturesque incident occurred about sunset, when the train<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +stopped at an artesian boring to take in a fresh supply of water. Here +some twenty well-conditioned camels were grazing upon the salt-bushes, +in charge of two intelligent natives of Rawalpindi, India. These +turbaned Punjabis, who spoke Hindustani with a distinct Australian +accent, so long had they been in the country, were marching the camels +overland to Western Australia, where they hoped to sell them at a good +price for transport work in the bush. The men had evidently prospered. +They said they had found Australia a good country, though they looked +forward to retiring eventually to their own land. Several Eurasian +children were with them. It was a reminder of those racial problems of +which the people of Australia take constant thought when they determine +to develop the natural resources of their wonderful land, as far as may +be, by white labour alone. It is no disparagement of the Oriental to say +that he is at his best when he is entirely of the East, just as the +white man is at his best when he mates with those of his own country and +race, a point upon which Australia, at all events, is thoroughly +convinced.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>XVIII</h2> + +<h2>SOUTH AUSTRALIA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The Prince alighted at sundown at the shipping centre Port Augusta, at +the head of Spencer gulf, and was welcomed to South Australia by Mr. +Barwell, State Premier, and other members of the Cabinet. A civic +reception was held, and the party changed over from the standard gauge +train of the Trans-Australian Railway, into a train on the narrow gauge +of South Australia, which was standing in the station profusely +decorated for the occasion. A start was then made on the two hundred and +sixty miles that lay between that point and Adelaide, throughout the +whole of which distance, we afterwards learnt, a guard had been placed +on every bridge and culvert. The people of South Australia were in no +mind that the Prince should run the risk of further accident.</p> + +<p>Civic receptions, at which numbers of returned men and other war workers +were drawn up, and all the inhabitants turned out, were given at various +places <i>en route</i>, including Quorn, Peterborough, Terowie, and Gawler. +The first part of the way was over the picturesque Pichirichi pass, +thirteen hundred feet above sea level. After descending on the other +side the narrow gauge gave place to the broad five-feet-three-inch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +track, which connects Adelaide with Melbourne. Sir Archibald Weigall, +Governor of South Australia, soon afterwards joined the train. The +latter part of the route was through flat and extraordinarily fertile +farming country.</p> + +<p>Adelaide was reached about noon. Here a large proportion of the +inhabitants of the province had assembled to welcome the Prince. A +procession was formed at the railway station, where guards-of-honour +were drawn up. The Prince shared a motor with Sir Archibald Weigall. Mr. +Barwell and other members of the South Australian Government occupied +cars behind. A well-mounted escort of light horse, in khaki, jingled on +either side. The entire route, some three miles in length through the +principal streets, had been elaborately decorated, and was lined ten +deep the whole way with cheerful crowds. Entering the spacious and +solidly built King George's Street, where magnificent bodies of Flying +Corps, Engineers, Naval Reserve, and other returned men kept the +barricades, the Prince was greeted by numbers of lady war-workers, in +fresh white uniforms, who had public-spiritedly reopened, for the +benefit of the blue-jackets and marines on the various visiting +war-vessels, the "Cheer-up club" which did such good service during the +war. Cadets, red cross workers, and masses of medalled returned men +lined the space opposite the town hall, where Mayor Moulder read a civic +address, to which the Prince replied, describing his now nearly +half-completed travels in the Commonwealth as a most memorable +experience, a statement heartily endorsed by all who shared them. From +the town hall the procession went on to the working-men's quarter,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> +where the reception was as enthusiastic as anywhere. It was also +noticeable that although only school-children, of whom there were +incredible numbers, lined the route for at least half a mile in this +part of the city, order was as well kept as in thoroughfares elsewhere, +where regulars or volunteers were lined up.</p> + +<p>Outside the big market in Rendal Street, beneath a wide arch built on +one side with vegetables, and on the other with apples and oranges, a +pretty function occurred, a little girl, daughter of the oldest gardener +doing business with the market, presenting the Prince with a bouquet, +and a small boy, the son of the oldest packer, with a basket of fruit, +offerings that symbolized pleasantly enough the very considerable +business done in South Australia in garden produce.</p> + +<p>Further on, in North Terrace, a more touching spectacle was presented +where hundreds of beds from the hospitals, each with a nurse in +attendance, lined the route, and the Prince paused for a word of +greeting with the patients. Medical students, apprentices, and yet more +cadets, were lined up near the fine stone buildings of the Art Gallery, +the University and the Exhibition, which are here grouped together. The +procession ultimately entered and ended in the quiet gardens of +Government House, where H.R.H. was to spend the week of his visit.</p> + +<p>Amongst functions which took place at Adelaide during the next few days, +was a state dinner at the leading hotel, at which three hundred sat +down, including everybody of importance in the South Australian +Government. Mr. Barwell proposed, and Mr. Gunn, spokesman of the Labour +Party, and Leader of the Opposition in the State Legislature, seconded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> +the toast of the Prince's health. The Prince replied and the proceedings +throughout were of the usual cordial nature. A climax was reached after +the dinner was over, and it was time for the Royal guest to get home to +bed. It was then discovered that the streets outside were so solidly +packed with people that it was quite impossible either for the +motor-cars to reach the door or for the party to walk to where they were +posted. The Prince was brought back into the building, whence he +addressed the crowd, at first from an upper window, and afterwards from +a roof on which he climbed so as to be nearer the throng. In the end, a +way out was found through a side street, by a door much affected by +bridal couples.</p> + +<p>In the course of his speech at this dinner, the Prince referred +sympathetically to the recent death of Premier Peake. He went on to +express appreciation of the welcome given him by Adelaide, "the garden +city of the Commonwealth," and dwelt upon the fine war-services of South +Australia, and the magnificent opportunities which this State offers for +development. He also mentioned the extent to which the future of +Australia, as a whole, depends upon a broad far-seeing railway policy, a +railway policy in fact "that is continental in scope." Continuing he +expressed regret at having been compelled to omit his originally +proposed overland journey from South Australia to Queensland, and +announced that, to make this up, it had now been decided, in +consultation with the Queensland Government, to substitute at least one +week in the back-blocks or interior of Australia, for the proposed visit +to the new mandated territory at Rabaul. "I am very sorry," the Prince<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> +added, "to have had to cut out Rabaul, but as I had to choose between +the two I am delighted to think I shall now be able to spend some days +in seeing bush and station life for myself in the real heart of +Australia." This decision met with general approval. Rabaul stands for +the mandated territory of tropical New Guinea, formerly in German +possession, and now allocated to the Commonwealth. It is a territory +bigger than England and Wales but only sparsely inhabited, partially +developed, and with no specially outstanding features. No interest it +offers could compare with that of Australia itself.</p> + +<p>The next few days were busy ones, public functions succeeding one +another almost continuously, and acres of close-packed crowds assembling +wherever it was announced that the Prince was to be present. On one +occasion he unveiled a fine bronze statue of the late King Edward. On +another he conversed with an assemblage of blinded soldiers. One +of the most picturesque of his experiences was when four thousand +women war-workers, including nurses, members of Cheer-up clubs, +motor-ambulance drivers, comforts workers, and members of the Mothers' +League marched past him in solid battalions, many of them bearing +stripes indicative of five years' public service, and some the badge +which stood for son or husband killed at the front. The scene of +enthusiasm will long be remembered when he told them he hoped that they, +like the diggers, would all look upon him as a comrade. It was a thing +he said often but never too often.</p> + +<p>The Prince also made expeditions into the surrounding country, which +has a climate like that of Italy, the vineyards climbing the terraced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +hills around Adelaide enhancing the resemblance. He here made the +acquaintance of the Australian wine industry, which continues to prosper +and expand, despite the new and devastating form of drought that +threatens it throughout the world. The difficulties of the trade are +considerable. The Australian is not himself a wine-bibber. His +intoxicant is whisky and his stimulant is tea. Withal he is a very +temperate person. No great home market, therefore, is at hand for the +native wines, and in spite of an excellence in many brands which must in +the long run establish them, the European importer still shows only a +modified confidence in stocking them to the displacement of the better +known labels of Southern Europe. Six million gallons annually, however, +are being drunk somewhere.</p> + +<p>On the day of the Prince's departure from Adelaide, eight thousand state +school-children and forty-five thousand spectators said good-bye to him +in brilliant sunshine, on the Adelaide cricket-ground. From the +cricket-ground he proceeded to the University, where the degree of +D.C.L. was conferred upon him. Thence through large crowds, which had +waited hours for his passing, and greeted him when he appeared with +friendly shouts of "Good-bye, Digger," he went to the railway station, +and proceeded by train to Port Adelaide. Here a local civic address was +presented, and yet another large gathering of children, returned men and +war-workers cheered him. The Royal train eventually went on, down the +Port Adelaide main street, which was black with people, to the outer +harbour wharves, where Sir Archibald Weigall, Mr. Barwell, Mr. Moulden, +and other leading men of South Australia went on the <i>Renown</i> and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> +said good-bye, the Prince ultimately sailing for Tasmania.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>XIX</h2> + +<h2>TASMANIA</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The Prince's reception at Hobart, Tasmania, was a great popular +occasion. Decorations had been kept up and renewed since the preceding +month, when the visit was originally to have taken place, and were still +imposing, while the crowds along the processional route, which was +several miles in length, were enormous.</p> + +<p>The Governor, Sir William Allardice, paid a ceremonial visit to the +Prince immediately the <i>Renown</i> anchored off Ocean Pier. On landing the +Prince was received by Sir Walter Lee, State Premier, Major-General Sir +John Jellibrand, and members of the Tasmanian Government. On the pier he +inspected guards-of-honour of seamen and cadets, and shook hands with +five of Tasmania's eleven V.C.'s, including Sergeant McDougall, who had +been an inmate of a pulmonary hospital when war broke out, yet managed +to get to the front and came back with the most coveted distinction in +the army.</p> + +<p>From the pier the Prince was taken to one of the big dockyard sheds, +which he found filled with returned men, nurses and other war-workers, +including the venerable Mrs. Roberts, a well-known local figure, who +stood, a bent old lady in black, waving the Union Jack beside the +commandant. Many were the Mrs. Robertses, under different names, that +these ceremonial occasions produced. One learned to look for them, +figures full of years and honour, spirits erect in failing bodies, dim +eyes lit by the old torch, frail arms carrying on the old tradition. +Homage to Mrs. Roberts, war-worker, be her style married or single. She +is a symbol of the race.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo170a.png" width="600" height="432" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />LEAVING PORT ADELAIDE<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo170b.png" width="600" height="447" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />MOUNT WELLINGTON, HOBART<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p>In this place the Prince was cheered in the lustiest manner, and was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +presented with an illuminated copy of the Tasmanian muster-roll, also +with the gold badge of the twelfth battalion. Thereafter he was taken in +procession through the streets, where the crowd was so dense and anxious +to get near to him, that the pace had to be of the slowest. Nothing +could exceed the good nature of those who were pressing in upon the +route, however, which was well kept after the first quarter of a mile. A +civic address was read outside the town hall, where the Prince, whose +voice had given out, wisely abstained from straining it further by any +attempt to make it heard beyond the platform occupied by the Mayor and +Councillors.</p> + +<p>Later on he attended a big state luncheon. The speakers included the +Premier, who dwelt upon Tasmania's loyalty and warm-hearted devotion to +the Empire. He also referred to developments that will eventually +revolutionize the industrial and commercial future of the island, no +less than a quarter of a million horse-power being in course of being +tapped by hydro-electric installations.</p> + +<p>Mr. Ogden, the Labour Party chairman and leader of the Opposition in the +State Legislature, also spoke. He said the loyalty of Tasmania was not +to be measured by the population of this beautiful island, but was a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +loyalty that extended to an Empire wherein the great gulf between rich +and poor would eventually be narrowed. The Prince was by this time too +hoarse to reply at any length. He managed to tell his enthusiastic +audience, however, that the chief thing he would have liked to be able +to say to them was how much he appreciated the reception given to him.</p> + +<p>The Prince's engagements during the two days he spent at Hobart included +a civic ball and races, an investiture and a big outdoor popular +reception, and witnessing the electric illumination of the city. The +last was especially interesting, not only as exhibiting what is probably +one of the most beautiful ports in the world, but also as an +illustration of one of the uses to which Tasmania's new hydro-electric +power can be put. The installation, which is connected with the overflow +of an impounded lake in the centre of the island, is rapidly +transforming this sleepy little State of the Commonwealth into a busy +industrial centre. Copper mines on the west coast are doing all their +smelting by this means. Hobart and Launceston drive their trams and +light their street lamps with the new power. Before the war the whole of +the zinc ore won from the Broken Hill mines in South Australia went to +Germany as a matter of course to be converted. Tasmania now handles much +and will presently handle all of it. Hitherto Australian downs have +grown the wool and Yorkshire looms have woven it. Presently Tasmanian +mills will perform the latter process, and so far as the Commonwealth is +concerned her fleeces will no longer make the journey across two oceans +and back, on their way to adorn and comfort the persons of her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> +population. From the manufacturer's point of view there are advantages +in isolation. Power, sugar and a liberal market have drawn the Cadbury +firm to Hobart, and foundations are already laid which will ultimately +prosper upon the sweet tooth of the Polynesian belle. The old Arcadian +days of Tasmania are gone with its colonial status. Its climate will +always draw seekers of ease in retirement, and its orchards will +remunerate their leisure, but the future of the State, under the +protection of the Commonwealth tariff, is industrial.</p> + +<p>The humorous inhabitants of its larger fellow States have a way of +calling the island a "flyfleck," but its importance in the Commonwealth +is out of all proportion to its size. The amenities it offers have from +the beginning attracted the settler with some liberty of choice, with +the result that Tasmania has contributed a large proportion of leading +men to the Commonwealth. It is also remarkable for the number of +retired members of the military and civil services of India amongst its +settlers, men who in their prime have borne heavy responsibilities, and +in their declining years are giving still commanding abilities to the +development of the land they have chosen to be their home.</p> + +<p>The Prince crossed Tasmania by rail at night, arriving the following +morning at Launceston, another seaport city of extraordinary scenic +beauty. Here he added to his tour one more experience of the entire +population turning out to welcome him in a city decorated from end to +end in honour of his coming. He stayed the night at the "Brisbane" +hotel, and attended a number of ceremonies. In the course of the +afternoon he inspected masses of school-children. The physical +impossibility of shaking hands with all the teachers in attendance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +suggested the idea of inviting those of them who were returned soldiers +to do so, and it was surprising what a large proportion were able to +claim the honour. Another function was his meeting disabled men at the +principal hospital. These poor fellows gave him the wildest reception, +and the whole assemblage laughed most heartily when, on the invitation +of one of them, he flicked halfpennies in a "two up" game. Later on the +Prince climbed the beautiful Cataract gorge afoot, at a pace with which +the members of the Cabinet who were with him had all they could do to +keep up. He finished a long day with a visit to the Launceston races, +followed by a popular reception at the town hall, where ten thousand +people passed in procession before him.</p> + +<p>The following day H.R.H. returned to Hobart, the State Premier and other +members of the Government, including the Ministers of Lands and +Railways, accompanying him on the train. The inhabitants assembled and +cheered him at every passing station, while at the more important, +including Tunbridge, Parallah and Brighton, he alighted and participated +in civic receptions. The region traversed included a rich farming and +orcharding district, on which numbers of returned soldiers, some of them +belonging to the British Army, who are being given by the Government +precisely the same treatment as their Australian comrades, are being +started as farmers. The State not only supplies them with already +cleared and fenced holdings and necessary buildings, but finances them +on terms calculated to enable men without a penny of their own, beyond +their war gratuity, to become independent freehold proprietors within +ten years. One of the features of this admirable scheme is that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> +settlement has attached to it an expert instructor, who is in Government +employ. Those settlers who have so far moved in have found a portion of +the holdings allotted to them already under crop, and some one at hand +to teach them how to apply their own labour to the best advantage. They +are being inducted into agricultural prosperity, in one of the most +perfect climates in the world, close to a railway, and in surroundings +comparable to those of Devonshire. One of them brought to show to the +Prince two prize sheep-dogs he had reared which he valued at a hundred +and fifty pounds. The Royal party left this spot regretfully, so full of +fair prospects for men who deserve all that can be done for them did it +seem. The number so far settled is not very large, but the Minister for +Lands, to whose initiative, resource and enthusiasm the success already +achieved is largely due, is hopeful that it will be possible to extend +it to all suitable returned men who present themselves. In this case +Tasmania should receive a signal increase in population, for nowhere in +the world have I seen a more cheerful outlook for the soldier who is of +the right type to become a farmer.</p> + +<p>The Prince was booked to spend the evening of his return to Hobart at +the Soldiers' Club, before going on board the <i>Renown</i>, which was to +sail at midnight. It was characteristic of the Tasmanians that the men +themselves remembered how trying this would be for him after his long +and strenuous day. They proposed, therefore, of their own motion, that +they should say good-bye to him on the wharf, and this was the course +ultimately adopted. It was a graceful act which fittingly terminated one +of the pleasantest visits of the tour.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>XX</h2> + +<h2>QUEENSLAND</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Accompanied by His Majesty's Australian Ship <i>Australia</i>, and two +destroyers, the <i>Renown</i> made a fine weather voyage to Sydney from +Tasmania. After crossing the Bass Strait the course was close inshore +along the beautifully wooded hills of New South Wales, and boats laden +with people put out from the small whaling port of Eden to greet the +Prince. Loyal messages were also flashed from homesteads further up the +coast when the <i>Renown</i> came in sight, transmitted by men, now back in +their homes, who had learnt to signal in France or Gallipoli. Entering +Sydney harbour, numbers of yachts and launches were found waiting in the +fairway to welcome the flotilla, the scene being almost as gay as when +the Prince first arrived at this wonderful port. The wharf also +demonstrated the interest felt in the arrival. It was loaded with people +whose cheers were undiminished as the Prince went his way to the +station, where he proceeded at once to entrain for Queensland.</p> + +<p>The rail journey northwards produced some of the most remarkable +experiences of the tour, experiences the more notable for occurring in +States where public sentiment is perhaps more markedly democratic than +anywhere else in Australia. The first stop of any consequence was at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +the coal-mining town of High Street. Here the Prince was taken by car in +procession through decorated streets, lined with people twenty deep the +whole way. The objective was the neighbouring railway station of West +Maitland, where H.R.H. was to rejoin the train, and where he found an +enormous crowd of miners and their wives and children, who gave him a +rousing welcome. He shook hands with three hundred returned men, also +with a pathetically long line of mothers, widows, and orphans of fallen +soldiers, and he inspected a big gathering of school-children.</p> + +<p>A picturesque figure occupied a place in the crowd on the road between +High Street and West Maitland, a native Australian woman in flowing +robes, with a golden crown on her head, who was the head of a local +tribe of blacks. Standing beside her was a full-blooded son, who had +lost a leg in France, whither he had gone in company with white +squatters, amongst whom, prior to this, he had presumably been a +stockman. She added to her memories and her dignities a word with the +Prince of Wales.</p> + +<p>Beyond West Maitland the route passed through fine park-like country, +with wooded hills and cultivated valleys, plainly visible in the bright +moonlight which had succeeded a typically balmy New South Wales winter's +day. The train stopped and receptions were held at various minor +centres, including Murrurundi, a place full of the romantic associations +of a bygone generation, when this part of Australia was still a land of +bush, broken only by very occasional squatters' cabins and mining camps. +As the Prince stood on a gaily decorated platform outside the station +with orderly lines of returned men and neatly dressed lady war-workers +beside him, one's mind went back to wilder scenes, enacted many years<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> +ago. A grey-headed man told how, on almost exactly this spot, a +bush-ranger had been shot, after long eluding capture with the help of +his sister, who was a waitress at the local drinking saloon, whence she +used to ride out to his hiding-place at night in the hills, upon a horse +borrowed from race-stables near by. In this way information and supplies +were communicated to him, the midnight journeyings upon the borrowed +thoroughbred not being brought to light until the time came round for +the annual race-gathering, when the mud and sweat of its condition +attracted attention. What became of the girl, my informant did not know, +but she was honoured in the story if not in the incident.</p> + +<p>Wallangarra, the border station between New South Wales and Queensland, +was reached the following morning, when the Prince again had the +modified excitement of changing gauges. Here he bade farewell to Mr. +Hodgson, who had acted throughout the tour in charge of the railways of +New South Wales. He was welcomed by a distinguished group of officials +representing Queensland, who came on board the train. The Premier, the +Hon. Mr. E. G. Theodore, was at that moment on public business in London +on behalf of the Queensland Government; the Governor, Sir Hamilton Gould +Adams, had recently retired. Their places were filled by Mr. Fihelly, +acting Premier, and Mr. Lennon, acting Governor, pending the arrival of +Sir Matthew Nathan from England.</p> + +<p>From the border the track climbed steadily to the top of a pleasant +wooded plateau, three thousand feet above sea level, dotted with rich +orchards and gardens, which are being opened up in increasing numbers +and of late at rapidly advancing land prices. It is difficult to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> +realize at first sight how the fruit-trees manage to take root. Some of +the very richest and most sought after plots are a mass of tumbled rocks +amongst which there seems room for nothing to grow, yet it is just +amongst these rocks that the very finest peaches and apples are raised.</p> + +<p>A newly constructed branch line carried the party to the returned +soldiers' settlement of Amiens. Here a cheerful crowd of some two +hundred Australians and British had assembled, accompanied by wives and +babies, the wives in a surprisingly large percentage of cases from +England, and the babies some of the healthiest looking imaginable. The +Prince would have liked to spend some time in this settlement, but an +inexorable programme hurried him away. He had time, however, to hear a +great deal about the felling, burning and clearing up of string-bark +forest, the fencing and ploughing of the land, also the planting of it +with fruit-trees of the finest stocks. He also saw a number of +comfortable bungalows each with the amenity of a roomy veranda, in which +the settlers live. Ten acres of good soil were considered a sufficiently +large holding to keep one man employed, and each place is arranged to +include this area, apart from rocky or water-logged portions. The +average out-turn of such a holding, when planted with suitable trees of +six years' growth, is estimated, with prevailing fruit prices, at £700 +per annum. Returned men, accepted by the local agricultural authorities +as likely to succeed on such properties, and irrespective of whether +they are from Australian or British units, are able to obtain advances, +as they may require them, up to a total of £625, against work done upon +their places. These advances are repayable in easy instalments, spread<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> +over long series of years, at about five per cent. interest, which is +less than the money at present costs to provide. Most of the holdings, +when seen by the Prince, were only partially cleared and planted. The +men were hopeful of pulling through, however, until the trees should +come into bearing, their pensions and advances, eked out by the growing +of tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables, for which there appeared to +be considerable local demand at remunerative prices, being considered +sufficient to keep them. Once the trees come into bearing their owners +can reasonably expect to do quite well. The authorities estimated that, +in the ordinary course, a man should be able to pay off all indebtedness +within ten years, after which he would find himself the absolute owner +of an unencumbered property, capable of indefinite expansion by taking +up more land, and even without any expansion, sufficient to support the +settler and his wife and children in conditions of comparative comfort.</p> + +<p>The life on these holdings is in the open air, in a sunny climate, +without any extremes of temperature, amongst beautiful natural +surroundings, and in an atmosphere so bracing that these well-watered +uplands have long been utilized as a health resort. The breaking in of +the holdings is, no doubt, very hard work, and here the Government +advances make it possible to pay for help in the case of men unequal to +do the whole of it themselves. Once this has been done, the work that +remains, of cultivating, manuring, pruning, and spraying the trees, and +of picking and packing the fruit, is very much less strenuous; and for +those prepared for a life in the open air where country pursuits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> +replace the feverish interests of the city, the prospect seems almost +ideal. Certainly those we saw entering upon it gave the very pleasantest +impression. The man will, of course, do best who possesses those +qualities which make him the lender, instead of the borrower, of the +stump-puller, and the purveyor, instead of the buyer, of tinned luxuries +at the co-operative shop and packing establishment. For all, however, +there seems to be a living under conditions which must certainly be +considered favourable.</p> + +<p>The sun was getting low when the Royal train pulled up at Warwick, a +prosperous city in the breezy uplands of the Darling Downs two thousand +feet above the sea level, home of sheep, mixed farming and white-stemmed +forest trees. Here in the Central park, commanding a beautiful view of +blue distant mountains, the entire population had assembled and the +usual civic address was presented.</p> + +<p>I talked with two of the residents, both men from the Thames Valley, one +a doctor, and the other a chauffeur. They agreed in not even considering +the idea of going back to the old country. This part of Queensland, they +said, was a place where it was easy to make a living, an its warmth and +sunshine were delightful after the English winters of which so little +can be safely predicted. They would not admit that the summer was too +hot, or that the drought from which this part of Australia had only +recently suffered had been more than a very temporary setback in the +steady growth of continually increasing prosperity.</p> + +<p>The train halted for the night in open upland country, with delightful +bracing air, one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> +painting a clear evening sky. The following morning, in warm brilliant +sunshine, the track crept down the wooded slopes that gird in the +Darling Downs, and emerged in the rich cultivated Lockyer plain below. +Here fine red cattle were feeding down magnificent crops, six inches up, +of green luscious oats, the settlers considering that this somewhat +remarkable procedure increases the ultimate harvest of grain, by causing +the young plants to stool out.</p> + +<p>Beyond the Lockyer plain the route lay through the Liverpool hills +whence it descended, by easy gradient, to Brisbane and the sea. Not +a station, a village or a house upon the way, but was gay with +decorations. The inhabitants were out upon all sides, on horseback, in +buggies, in cars, or seated upon fence rails, every man of them hat in +hand, every woman and girl a-smile, every child wide-eyed with +excitement. Operatives cutting down trees, navvies shovelling ballast +upon the railway track, farmers plowing their fields, husbandmen pruning +their orchards, stopped work and saluted or shouted a welcome as the +train went by. Boys raced beside the Royal saloon in youthful endeavour +to keep up. Not a churlish glance, nor an indifferent face, was seen for +a hundred miles.</p> + +<p>Brisbane first presented itself in the shape of pleasant garden suburbs +full of wooden houses on stilts, each surrounded by a garden of flowers. +It developed, as the train rushed on, into the solid masonry of a +closely built city. The heartsome sound of cheering accompanied all the +way. Arrived at the railway station, H.R.H. was welcomed with every +formality. The State Premier, the whole of the Cabinet, the Mayor and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> +the city Council, received him on the platform. Naval and military +guards-of-honour were in attendance. The usual procession of motor-cars +was ultimately in motion, and carried the visitor through several miles +of streets, in which elaborately decorated arches, made of wool bales, +fruit, vegetables, and corn-sheaves, gave homely, delightful, convincing +character to their setting. Crowds lined the entire route and gave the +Prince a welcome the warmth of which was equal to that of any he had +previously received. The way was kept by returned men, and long lines of +women war-workers, including nurses and helpers of every kind, formed a +solid wall of white on either side of the route for at least a quarter +of a mile.</p> + +<p>In the Albert Square Mayor Maxwell read an address of welcome. At the +University pretty girl-students, in black caps and gowns, raced one +another across the grounds to get a second view of the Prince after they +had stood demurely at attention as he went past. On the grassy slopes of +the wide Domain beside the river, backed by an assemblage of ten +thousand delighted school-children, the Prince reviewed the men who had +been keeping the route through the city. To render this possible every +detachment had closed up and followed the procession after the cars had +passed. In this way were gathered some two thousand men representing +every arm of the service. The designations of the First, Second, Third, +Fourth, and Fifth Australian Divisions were in evidence on the flags +carried past the saluting point.</p> + +<p>Another interesting occasion during the visit to Brisbane was the local +agricultural exhibition, which never, in the long history of this +popular institution, had been so crowded, the principal stores and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> +other business establishments having all been closed in honour of the +occasion. The proceedings began with a procession through the wool, +wheat, sugar-cane, fruit, butter, cheese, pig, and cattle exhibitions +halls, the Prince and members of the committee making slow progress in +the crowds of cheering spectators. The afternoon was devoted to a +parade of prize-winning cattle and horses. This was held in a big +amphitheatre—seventy years ago the crude "Bora," sacred initiation +ground, of Queensland savages, now the beautifully turfed show-ring of +the National Agricultural Association. Here, in the presence of some +seventy thousand spectators, the Prince saw some very fine jumping, not +devoid of minor mishaps. He himself ran to help to pick up a girl whose +mount came down at one of the fences. By this time it will be noted that +it was impossible to keep H.R.H. out of any kind of incident not +strictly arranged for. He also assisted at an attempt, not the less +interesting because it just failed of success, to lower the mile +trotting-record of the track.</p> + +<p>Leaving the show in the afternoon, the Prince proceeded, in company with +the acting Premier and the Lieutenant-Governor, to Farm Park, where he +took tea upon the grass with the Mayor and Aldermen of Brisbane, in the +midst of thousands of spectators. So closely was the civic tea-table +surrounded that the red cross nurses, to whom fell the duty of waiting +on the Royal party, scarcely had room to perform their functions. The +number of cups and spoons and other articles that became heirlooms in +1920 for the benefit of Australasian posterity must be considerable. The +Prince was eventually extracted from the crush, and embarked, amidst<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +much cheering and hand-clapping, upon one of numerous decorated +motor-boats which took him, attended by a flock of yachts, across the +wide Brisbane river, in the yellow sunset, on a visit to invalid +soldiers in the fine "Anzac" Hospital on the other side.</p> + +<p>Another notable function in Brisbane was the state dinner, at which +representative men from every part of Queensland were present, some four +hundred sitting down. The Prince was between the acting Premier and the +Lieutenant-Governor. The Papal representative, Monsignor Cattaneo, +occupied a seat on the other side of the Lieutenant-Governor. Others +present included the Anglican Bishop, the members of the State Cabinet +and the Legislative Council, and the Chief Justice. The streets outside +were densely packed with people, who became so insistent in cheering +after the Prince had got inside that he left the banquet to wave to them +from the balcony. Mr. Fihelly, in proposing the toast of the evening, +emphasized that their Royal guest had endeared himself to all with whom +he had come in contact, and had been found to be "a man of parts, a man +of ability, able to take his place amongst men, and one who would carry +away with him the goodwill of all the people of Queensland."</p> + +<p>Mr. Vowles, Nationalist Leader of the Opposition, spoke in similarly +loyal tone. The Prince rose to reply amidst cheers, and developed his +points in a voice which his hearers noticed had now recovered its +clearness and resonance. In the course of a long and enthusiastically +received speech he dwelt upon the wonderful reception he had had, the +pleasure his visit had given him, and especially on the large part taken +in the receptions by returned sailors, soldiers and women war-workers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +Referring to the soldier settlement he had visited on his way to +Brisbane, he congratulated the Queensland Government on the foresight +and energy with which they had tackled the repatriations problems. "You +cannot do too much," he said, "for your diggers, who played such a big +part in saving the Empire, and who should be looked upon as the backbone +of the Commonwealth.... My tour in Australia, alas!" he continued, "is +nearly over. It is particularly to the future of the Commonwealth that +my thoughts turn. My visit to Australia has taught me that the spirit +wherein your diggers volunteered, and fought and won, is not something +unique or out of the way, which will never happen again, but the natural +outcome of a national spirit which is going to make Australia one of the +great progressive nations of the world. Their free and gallant services +in the war have shown to yourselves, to the Empire and to the world what +you are and what you can do. With such a spirit in its men and women +Australia has a splendid future in its grasp. I came to Australia +already feeling a strong bond of comradeship with your troops: I shall +leave it feeling even a stronger bond of comradeship with the Australian +people as a whole, and my heart will always be with them in their mighty +task of building up the solid British fabric of freedom, justice and +security with fair play for all upon this vast continent."</p> + +<p>Another of the Brisbane functions was a popular reception in the public +gardens overlooking the river. Here some thousands of people passed +before the Prince, who stood upon a dais, the acting Premier beside him. +Girls presented bouquets of flowers. Men and women stopped to wish him<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> +good luck on his homeward voyage, or to photograph him at close +quarters. Here and there an old-fashioned curtsy would be dropped, or +cheering or hand-clapping started. The great majority of the people +expressed themselves in a simple nod or smile, or waved hand or hat or +handkerchief as they went by. One could not help recognizing, not only +that they had taken the Prince to their hearts, but that while paying +him the great compliment of ceasing to treat him with formality, there +was no diminution in the deference that was shown. When he left the +reception he went back to his quarters in Parliament Buildings, where, +marching up and down, were armed cadets in full service kit, volunteers +from districts it had not been possible for the Prince to visit, their +expenses all paid by local subscriptions. There was no serious necessity +for the services of these young warriors, but they represented the +universal determination of North-Eastern Australia that "our Prince," as +by this time he had begun to be called, should lose nothing of pomp or +Royal circumstance while he remained the guest of their State.</p> + +<p>Before the Prince left, Monsignor Cattaneo, Apostolic Delegate, and the +Very Reverend M. Duhig, Catholic Archbishop of Queensland, asked and +obtained an interview at which they formally presented "the homage and +devotion to the throne of the whole Catholic community of Australia." +They dwelt upon the deep loyalty of this community and declared that the +Prince had won all their hearts.</p> + +<p>In the course of his visit to Brisbane H.R.H. was shown State factories, +State shops, State insurance offices, and State markets in full +operation, a class of enterprise under experiment in natural conditions +so favourable as to give it at least a sporting chance. He also heard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> +much of the sugar-cane, coco-nut-palm and banana plantations, and the +enormous cattle ranges of the northern territories where Queensland +rolls away into the tropics and there is rich land and to spare for a +population as large as that of France.</p> + +<p>Leaving Brisbane one day during his visit to that city, the Prince +proceeded by train through a well-wooded country of rich black soil, +just then a quagmire from heavy but welcome rain. He touched at a number +of centres, including Ipswich, head-quarters of woollen mills and +coal-mines, and Harrisville and Boonah, country towns where farming and +pastoral communities predominate. Every stopping-place had been +converted by unpaid local labour into a beflagged forest of greenery, in +the midst of which the inhabitants of the entire neighbourhood, also +many from far distant stations, had assembled. At Ipswich the streets +were lined by operatives and miners, and the welcome of this important +place included a car procession through decorated streets, a popular +reception, a mayoral address, and a civic luncheon served to the strains +of one of the largest and best trained choirs in the State. Vocal music +as the accompaniment of food was an unaccustomed luxury to many of those +present, but it did not appear to interfere with the general appetite. +At Boonah the proceedings were simpler but not on that account less +impressive, although they took place in a pelting rainstorm. The Prince +waded through an ankle-deep stream of flood-water to an exposed +platform, where, surrounded by a crowd of squatters, stockmen, farmers +and their families, including large numbers of women and children, all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +standing in the downpour with streaming mackintoshes and umbrellas, he +unveiled a fine marble war-memorial bearing three hundred names. He also +shook hands with relatives of the fallen, and with numbers of returned +men, nurses and other war-workers.</p> + +<p>On the way back to Brisbane further centres were visited. Amongst them +were Maryborough, a manufacturing and coal-mining city, where the steel +skeletons of two twelve-thousand-ton steamers, under construction for +the Commonwealth Government, towered amidst the decorations. One of the +arches was surmounted by a group of blacks in native costume, armed with +bows, arrows and spears, which they wielded realistically. Another +carried a dozen diggers in uniform. Other places visited were Tiaro, +where the assemblage that greeted the Prince consisted chiefly of +agriculturalists; Gympie, where the returned men, assembled in a +war-memorial park, included gold-miners as well as farmers; Cooroy, +where the Prince made the acquaintance of a large logging community; +Landsborough, where sugar-cane planters, and banana and orange-growers +preponderated, and Beerburrum, Queensland's biggest soldier settlement, +where he shook hands with a large number of returned men engaged in +growing pineapples.</p> + +<p>The Prince finally left Brisbane amidst unforgettable scenes of national +enthusiasm and emotion. The entire population of the city seemed to be +in the streets. The neighbourhood of the railway station was blocked by +masses of cheering men, women and children. The railway station +buildings were besieged, the more influential folk, including the +members of the State Government, and their families, thronged the +platform. The general public crowded windows, balconies, culverts,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +overbridges, and fences, wherever a glimpse of the train could be +obtained. The start had to be three times postponed, so many were the +Prince's personal farewells. After the train got into motion, motor-cars +raced beside the track, school-children were found lined up at wayside +crossings, stumps and telegraph poles were perching places for daring +climbers. Everybody waved something, if it were not a handkerchief, a +flag or a hat, it was the nearest thing to hand. I saw a vegetable +hawker wildly flourishing his biggest cabbage, a housewife excitedly +using a tablecloth as a signal of affection, a company of railway +carriage-cleaners throwing their dusters upon the wind. Workmen in +overalls, carters with teams of horses, stockmen riding to their duties +stopped and doffed hats as the train went by. "Old Lang Syne" was taken +up, again and again, by thousands of voices, to be itself drowned in a +chorus of shouted "Goodbyes." All the Members of the Cabinet travelled +upon the Royal train as far as the border of the State. The acting +Premier had to stay behind for urgent public reasons, but was so +determined not to be left out of the proceedings that he attempted to +follow the train in an aeroplane, and was only stopped by crashing +heavily. The demonstration was so remarkable that even the Queenslanders +themselves were astonished at it. Enthusiasm had taken possession of +this democratic people, and there seemed to be no length to which they +were not prepared to go. Here was a country where the people are as +sovereign as anywhere on earth. Yet wayside villages and towns on the +southward journey, one after another, took up and repeated Brisbane's +farewell demonstrations. The crowds at the railway stations, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> +addresses were presented, included in many instances definitely more +people than the entire population of the immediate centre, this being +due to farmers, squatters, and settlers bringing their families +incredible distances by train, by motor, in buggies, or on horseback, so +that they might not miss the occasion. In one case four well-mounted +girls galloped astride nearly a mile, keeping abreast with the train, +and arriving at the next station, where an address was to be read, just +as the Prince alighted. Their spirited ride secured them a handshake and +a compliment.</p> + +<p>The train halted for the night at Toowoomba, in the heart of a wonderful +agricultural region, which was found smiling under splendid crops. Here +the countryside had long been preparing for the Prince's coming, and the +celebrations were of the liveliest, everything, including decorations, +gathering of returned men, civic banquet, and ball, being planned to +create a record.</p> + +<p>The following morning the Prince recrossed the border, over a carpet +woven of yellow wattle flowers. It was a pretty thought and offered him +much.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>XXI</h2> + +<h2>THE JACKAROO AND OTHERS</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">When the Prince left Queensland he had practically completed his +official tour of the Australian States. There remained for him the +improvised series of visits to the back-blocks of New South Wales, which +took the place of the abandoned journey to New Guinea. Here he stayed in +the houses of squatters, some of them controlling sheep-runs hundreds of +thousands of acres in extent, and mingled in the most informal manner in +country life and country pastimes. In the wonderful air of this region +he regained much of the spring and energy he had lost in the preceding +months of strenuous official touring. The Government officers on the +Royal train meanwhile returned to Sydney.</p> + +<p>The route taken by the Prince after leaving Wallangarra for the interior +lay through beautiful scenery across the famous Blue Mountains. One +looked out, as the train climbed upwards, across vast stretches of +green-forested gorges and grey crags of fluted limestone, with purple +and aquamarine ridges on the far horizon—a land filled only +with the colour and the form of wild nature. The Prince started +on the foot-plate of the engine, which he drove himself up a +one-in-thirty-three grade slope. Although his journey was now entirely +unofficial, numbers of people assembled and cheered him at the principal +stations. At Lawson he alighted and shook hands with returned men, +including Private Duncan Allan, the oldest soldier in the Australian +forces. Later on, crossing the open Bathurst sheep-downs, a halt was +made at the wayside station of Kelso, where horses were in waiting and +he took, in the rain, a brisk ride across country, rejoining the train +that evening at Bathurst.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 590px;"> +<img src="images/illo192a.png" width="590" height="435" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />THE BACKBLOCKS: AN UNOFFICIAL FIXTURE<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo192b.png" width="600" height="454" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />HIS FAVOURITE MOUNT<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span></p> + +<p>The following morning the train reached Coonamble, terminus of the +railway, a township of wooden houses, situated on a vast grassy plain, +in the heart of sheep-raising country, two hundred and sixty miles from +Sydney. Here Mr. Oliver, President of the Shire, accompanied by the +local mayor and members of his council, received the Prince upon the +platform, and conducted him in a motor-car procession to a grassy +park in the middle of the town, where he found awaiting him a large +assemblage of people, including the usual contingents of returned men +and school-children, also nurses and other war-workers. An address +was presented, and thereafter the procession was continued to the +racecourse, where horses had been collected. The Prince and his staff +mounted and set off across recently flooded country for Wingadee, thirty +miles distant, where the week-end was to be spent at one of the stations +of the Australian and New Zealand Land Company. Lunch was served in the +open at one of the artesian bore-holes that furnish this country with +water, even the severe drought which preceded the recent floods not +having affected the supply. The Prince here visited a typical bush +saloon and in bush fashion called for drinks for all the settlers he +found there. Later in the afternoon he reached Wingadee, where he was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +received by Mr. McEwan, General Manager of the Company. He spent the +afternoon riding about this up-to-date station and going over the +wool-sheds. The host of his visit was Mr. Fechan, the Superintendent.</p> + +<p>In the next few days the Prince rode a number of horses, inspecting +the wool-sheds and flocks, chasing kangaroos and emus, and had the +opportunity of forgetting the formalities of public receptions. On the +day of departure from Wingadee he rode thirty miles back to the little +country racecourse at Coonamble, where he remained throughout the +afternoon watching the racing in the casual mud-splashes of his own +ride. The enclosure was crowded with squatters from all parts of +Northern New South Wales, who gave him the most cordial reception, and +followed him afterwards to the railway station to cheer the train by +which he left for Myowera, another small station sixty miles distant in +the same great plain.</p> + +<p>Here the Prince stayed on the Canoubar run in the house of Mr. and Mrs. +McLeod, Mr. Niall, managing director of the company, supervising the +arrangements for his entertainment, which were on the most hospitable +scale. At Canoubar he saw the working of a big sheep station in full +operation, including shearing, sheep-drafting, wool-packing, and the +driving of flocks by wonderfully trained dogs, also the handling and +breaking-in of station horses. One of the merino rams shown to him had +recently been bought for two thousand five hundred pounds sterling. As +to the performances of the dogs, the confiding correspondents were told +that they could drive a fowl into a jam tin, but I am not aware whether +H.R.H. was asked to believe this. On the afternoon of his arrival he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> +rode nine miles, much of it along natural avenues of gum-trees, to the +country town of Nyngan. His host accompanied him, mounted on his fine +steeple-chaser Bullawarra, once sent to England to run in the Grand +National.</p> + +<p>At Nyngan the entire countryside was found assembled and the Prince met +a large company of returned men, besides relatives of those who would +not return, nurses and other war-workers. All the school-children of the +neighbourhood were also there. The programme included the laying of a +foundation-stone, after which he rode home escorted by a bodyguard of +light-horsemen, who gave a display of bush-galloping a mile outside the +station.</p> + +<p>Next day H.R.H. was made acquainted with the Jackaroo. The Jackaroo is +neither a crow nor a parrot nor any kind of quadruped. He is a young +gentleman of Australia who desires to become a squatter, and who gives +his services on a sheep-run for the opportunity of picking up the +business. He was living, where the Prince encountered him, with, half a +dozen of his fellows, in a comfortable building with roomy sleeping +quarters and an old soldier in charge of the mess. His food is plain but +substantial and appetizing, a leading feature of it, the slab of +"brownie" bread, full of currants, which tells its own tale of his age +and digestion. The Jackaroo spends most of his day in the saddle, riding +long distances to outlying parts of the run, on the hunt for bogged +sheep, or in supervising lambing or moving flocks from one paddock to +another. Often he will not see a living soul from the time he starts out +in the morning until he returns at night, and he may even lose his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> +way. He then makes a bee-line in the likeliest direction until he comes +to the wire fence of the boundary, which he may follow for miles before +he reaches a landmark he knows. The speedometer of one car which had +been out on fence inspection the day before the Prince arrived, marked +120 miles, travelled in a single day, so it may be presumed that the +Jackaroo's bump of locality develops early. The squatter is generally +glad to take on likely boys, as he finds them, when the first +fecklessness is worn off, on the whole more conscientious than paid +labour, an important point for work that has to be so largely delegated. +The life is healthy and interesting, and on up-to-date runs like the +ones seen, looked exceedingly pleasant. The young fellows come as +a rule from families of good class and generally have means of their +own—a combination which should make the life history of the +Jackaroo not unrewarding to the student of the fauna of these parts. His +own point of view would have been worth obtaining, but being young he +was modest and said little. He rode buck-jumpers for the Prince. He +buck-jumped rather specially well, as might be expected of a Jackaroo. +His name is a felicity that will outlive much topography. One wonders +who invented it.</p> + +<p>The Prince on several occasions shared in the sport of kangaroo chasing, +which leaves fox-hunting standing. On one occasion he rode all day +guided by sons of his hosts through vast paddocks fenced with wire, over +an even carpet of young green grass, which was then just springing up +after floods following three years of drought, and took many a jump over +fallen trunks of trees killed by systematic ringing to make way for +fodder raising. On the way thirty or forty kangaroos were seen and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> +five of them were chased over formidable obstacles which the "old +men"—the male kangaroos—cleared with extraordinary ease in +their long hopping stride, at a pace that took greyhounds all they +could do to overtake. These kangaroos eat sometimes by no means an +inconsiderable amount of pasture needed for the sheep, and some years +ago were being so extensively shot down that they were in danger of +being exterminated. A close season was introduced and now they are +increasing to the extent, in some localities, of again becoming +troublesome. They are much the colour of the tree trunks, and until +startled are easily overlooked in the bush. They are off with most +wonderful grace and agility the moment they are disturbed and can even +clear the high barbed wire fences by which the runs are bounded provided +they approach at a right angle. When running parallel to the fence they +cannot get the necessary foothold for a big enough spring. This is +sometimes taken advantage of by the rider, who, being of course unable +to put his horse over so formidable an obstacle, endeavours to head off +the kangaroo in such manner that it may reach the fence at a slanting +angle. In this case the chase continues alongside instead of being +finished by the kangaroo's escape over the fence. When overtaken by +dogs, which are often used in the chase, the kangaroo makes a gallant +fight for life, and many a hound has been ripped open and killed by a +well-directed kick from its powerful hind feet, before it can be shot.</p> + +<p>The emu also lent itself to the excitement of the chase during the tour. +The big brown wingless bird much the size and shape of the ostrich, is +quite unable even to jump, but runs as fast as a horse can gallop, and +when pursued will charge a barbed wire fence so hard as to break its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +way through, its feathers protecting it from being seriously torn. It is +on this account not beloved by the squatter, but it is seldom shot. The +Prince brought away with him two newly hatched emu chickens, creatures +the size of ducks and prettily marked in shades of black and fawn. Their +quarters on the <i>Renown</i> were in a roomy cage on the superstructure, +where they soon established a reputation as quiet, sober and +well-behaved members of the ship's company.</p> + +<p>On several of his expeditions the Prince was given a meal in the bush +camp fashion. One of these was on the shady banks of a stream +twenty-five miles from a station, from which he had ridden out in the +morning accompanied by sons of his hosts. Here quantities of dead +gum-tree trunks were quietly burning, and were made use of for grilling +chops and making <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'billee'">billy</ins> tea. The latter is quite unlike and, to the +hungry rider, infinitely preferable to the teapot variety. A tin-can is +filled at the nearest water-hole and is carried to a burning tree trunk, +on which it is gingerly balanced, usually with the aid of a stick, the +tree trunk being as a rule too hot to reach without one. The water boils +with extraordinary rapidity and the pot is quickly hooked off the fire. +A generous handful of tea is thrown into the water before it ceases to +boil and the resultant brew is drunk from any utensil that happens to be +handy. Nobody inquires what becomes of the tea leaves.</p> + +<p>One of the sights on the Canoubar run was sixty thousand sheep recently +returned from stations in well-watered districts, in one case five +hundred miles distant by rail, whither they had been sent to stay over +the years of drought. These sheep had all been carried by the state<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +railways of New South Wales, at extraordinarily low rates, and with +surprisingly few casualties. They offered a concrete example of what had +been done on a very large scale throughout the State, where the railways +were able to save for the squatters hundreds of thousands of valuable +sheep, which must otherwise have perished when the fodder supply gave +out. The Prince was so interested in what he saw that there was no +getting him away before dark. By the time he was back in the station he +had ridden over sixty miles without leaving the run.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>XXII</h2> + +<h2>AMONGST THE SHEEP</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">Within the memory of men who have not yet reached middle age, +sheep-rearing in Australia was a gamble. At one time large fortunes +might be made, at another the fruits of long years of thrift and labour +might be swept away by causes which appeared to be outside human +control. Now the industry has become a science. The settler may make +more or he may make less, according as the world price for wool is high +or low. He has his welfare in his own hands, however, and has only to go +the right way to work to make certain of a living.</p> + +<p>The removal of the rabbit-pest has been particularly complete. The +Prince saw wire fencing, extending in some cases in unbroken stretches +for thousands of miles, which is at once so high and so deeply embedded +in the ground that rabbits can neither burrow beneath nor climb over it. +Once a paddock, fenced in this way, has been cleared it remains +permanently free. The principal measures for clearing are the systematic +ploughing of every warren, which effectually stops the burrows, and +thereafter the driving by dogs and horsemen of such rabbits as are above +ground to the fences, where covered pits, led up to by long converging +lines of wire netting, have been prepared in advance. The rabbits<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> +follow one another through drop entrances into these pits, thousands +being sometimes captured in one night on a single run. The operation has +only to be repeated, in one paddock after another, to free an estate +completely. The value of the rabbits and their fur covers most of the +cost involved. One may meet gigantic crates on wheels, each drawn by a +dozen horses and sometimes containing twenty thousand rabbits, <i>en +route</i> to factories where the skins are cured and the flesh prepared for +export. By these means many runs have been completely cleared, while +others are in course of being similarly dealt with.</p> + +<p>As regards methods of fighting drought, in addition to the help given by +the railways in moving sheep from drought-infected areas, to regions +where the grass has not dried up, the storage of fodder in good years to +make up for deficiency in bad ones, is a further measure adopted. +Artesian borings, even where they are inadequate for irrigation +purposes, will water millions of sheep where the surface supply is +defective.</p> + +<p>It was at one time feared that the tapping of the subsoil water over +tens of thousands of square miles in New South Wales, where the +geological formations are such as to render this class of enterprise +remunerative, would gradually exhaust the supply. Experience over a +number of years, including prolonged periods of drought, however, has +not confirmed this apprehension. The Prince was shown wells which had +been running for twenty years without intermission. In some cases, it is +true, fresh borings have had to be made, but it has been discovered +that the failure of the old ones is almost always due, not to any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> +deficiency in water-pressure below ground, but to the silting up or the +corroding of the pipe itself. Fresh bores yield full supplies, close +alongside those that have given out. Restrictions are rightly imposed by +Government upon the sinking of more than what is considered a reasonable +number of wells in any one area, and up to the present, in the entire +sheep region visited by the Prince, this arrangement has allowed +sufficient supplies to be forthcoming for the watering of all stock, +even in such periods of prolonged drought as that from which this part +of Australia had very recently emerged.</p> + +<p>Minor enemies of the squatter are the black carrion crows, creatures +justly execrated by every back-block man. They are not unlike English +rooks, but have the diabolical habit of attacking sick sheep and +newly-born lambs, not infrequently pecking out their eyes. They are also +charged with poisoning the wounds they make, so that a sheep may die +which appears to have been only very slightly pecked. The harmless +looking <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'gulahs' but also known as 'gallahs'">galahs</ins>, white parrots with pink breasts, make themselves only +one degree less objectionable by eating the grain. Both of these pests, +however, are being got under, with the growth in the number of sportsmen +with scatter guns in each district. The Prince shot several galahs, and +if his bag did not include any carrion crows this was chiefly because +the good work of shooting them had already been so efficiently done.</p> + +<p>Another trouble of the squatter, the silting up of his fences with +leaves and dust in the hot weather, until they disappear and sheep and +cattle stray over them unimpeded, is also being successfully overcome. +On one estate enormous machines like snow-ploughs were shown, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> +were periodically pulled by horses along the windward side of fences +subject to this mishap. Floods come only occasionally, but the squatter +has declined to allow himself to be defeated by them. The Prince saw the +bones of many a stray sheep that had been drowned in the last visitation +of this kind. It is indeed extraordinary that such a thing should occur +upon a table-land two thousand feet above sea level, where rain is +ordinarily so scanty that drought is continually feared. The very rarity +of heavy rain, however, makes the conditions such that the water-courses +may be inadequate to carry off any sudden downpour, with the result that +the flooding, when it does occur, may easily be very extensive, as the +country for hundreds of miles on end is almost absolutely level. +Motor-cars have been used successfully to convey thousands of sheep, +three or four at a time, from flooded areas to banks where they could +exist until the water subsided. In other cases boats have been brought +from incredibly distant rivers to carry stock to safety. Much has also +been done upon men's backs, for the squatter does not allow his sheep to +perish if anything within human strength can help them.</p> + +<p>In this part of Australia the grass is so thin that from two to five +acres are required to support each sheep. This accounts for the immense +size of the runs, which extend in some cases to hundreds of thousands of +acres. One of the results of so much grazing space is that epidemics are +almost unknown. On one of the runs the Prince took a hand, with +power-driven clippers in sheds, where one man shears, on the average, +more than a hundred sheep in a single day, the wool fetching up to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> +twenty-two pence a pound. Fleeces so ticketed indicate the neighbourhood +of the wool millionaire, and he was to be met in all stages of opulence. +A run carrying fifty thousand sheep, each yielding a profit of ten +shillings in the year for wool alone, is by no means uncommon in this +part of Australia, men who had established themselves in pre-war days, +in quite a modest way, upon land leased from the State, not infrequently +finding their incomes multiplied a number of times over as the rates for +wool increased. The greater part of these profits has remained in the +country, and much of it has been put into the development of the runs, +and the improvement of the breeds of sheep, horses and cattle on them. +In one of the stations a five-thousand-pound bull had recently been +bought, and cows were valued at a thousand pounds apiece. On another, +three rams were shown to the Prince which were considered to be worth +six thousand pounds, being an average of two thousand each.</p> + +<p>The methods of development adopted varied according to the financial +position of the owners. A squatter with a long-established run who had +paid off his mortgages, and had money in hand, would ordinarily keep +more sheep upon a given area than his less prosperous neighbour, for the +reason that he could afford to move them by rail in years of drought. +The man more recently established, with whom money was not so plentiful, +would keep his land more sparsely stocked. In one case only six thousand +sheep were being raised, though the run would have supported twice that +number in an ordinary season. Here the owner did the whole of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> +routine work of the place, with the assistance only of his two eldest +sons, lads in their 'teens, and occasional hired hands for shearing and +fencing.</p> + +<p>The run possessing the five-thousand-pound bull was worked upon more +expensive principles. It employed highly paid managers, overseers and +stockmen all the year round, and was regarded as so up to date in its +methods as to be quoted as a state model of efficiency and a sort of +competitive Elysium for jackaroos. Both methods of working seemed to be +successful, and both estates were making money.</p> + +<p>The heavy drop in wool prices that is now taking place will no doubt +reduce the amount of the profits presently to be made. There is no +reason to apprehend, however, that the industry will not adjust itself +successfully to the new state of things. Fortunes in the future may +be harder to make than in the past, but the necessaries of life are +assured to all engaged in an industry so self-supplying as is that of +sheep-farming. The area suitable for it is still practically unlimited, +and the open-air life it offers will continue to attract young fellows +anxious to get away from the confinement of the town and the office.</p> + +<p>As regards the climate, all that I can say is that as far north as the +Prince's travels extended, the winter conditions then prevailing were +delightful. The nights were sharp, and the days full of sunshine, and of +a temperature that induced to outdoor work of every kind. Never have I +seen healthier looking people than those who make this part of the world +their permanent home. The children that the Prince found assembled in +surprising numbers at every stopping-place, were sturdy and well +developed. That the summers on these breezy uplands are sometimes hot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> +was testified to by occasional underground chambers constructed so as to +afford shelter in the middle of the day. Every one agreed, however, that +the nights were cool, and the health and longevity of the community +phenomenal. The interesting claim was also made that the very warmth of +the sun in summer was itself an important factor in keeping down disease +alike in men and sheep.</p> + +<p>The lowlands along the coast of Northern Queensland, where such tropical +staples as sugar-cane, plantains and coco-nuts are grown in quantity, +were hardly reached, though Brisbane, the most northerly seaport visited +by the Prince, was upon the outer fringe of this important region. In +Brisbane the climate was distinctly hot, though the inhabitants looked +strong and full of health. Further north, where the temperatures grow +higher, we were told that numbers of Italians are settling in and doing +well. They have found conditions not altogether dissimilar from those of +their own country, and are developing labour able to deal to some extent +with the difficult problem of sugar-growing.</p> + +<p>On leaving Myowera the Prince proceeded by train to Sydney. On the way +civic receptions were held in his honour at a number of centres. He +stopped off at <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Dubho'">Dubbo</ins>, where white-dressed V.A.D.'s, each with a wand of +yellow-flowering wattle, made a bower over his head as he passed from +the railway station on the usual inspection of returned men. At +Wellington he found a crowd waiting to cheer him beneath flowering +orchards shivering in wintry rain. Blayney, although situated upon the +chill slopes of the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Canoblas'">Canobolas</ins> mountains and said to be the coldest place +in New South Wales, produced amongst its guard-of-honour a cavalry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> +officer from India in the turbaned uniform of the Fifteenth Lancers, who +had returned to his home in Australia when peace was declared. Another +place visited was Bathurst, where a procession through the town took +place, and where the decorations and receptions were on a very extensive +scale. In the course of his reply to a civic address, presented in this +city, the Prince said his visit in the interior had given him a glimpse +of real Australia. He had seen the richness of the country and had +learnt the desolation that drought and floods could produce. "Many," he +added, "have suffered losses, and while sympathizing with their hard +fortune, I trust the next few years may be years of plenty and bring +them all they desire."</p> + +<p>On arrival at Sydney the Prince went at once to the <i>Renown</i>. Later in +the day, his official tour having ended, he drove unescorted to the +races, which he enjoyed like any private individual. The courtesy of the +large gathering of race-goers was such that, although everybody wanted +to see him, and much cheering took place, the stewards had no difficulty +in preventing any inconvenience.</p> + +<p>Before finally sailing, the Prince spent four days in Sydney, saying +good-bye to his friends, and receiving them in the <i>Renown</i>, which +he made his home. Amongst those he entertained were the Commonwealth +Governor, the Prime Minister, the New South Wales Governor, the State +Premier, and the principal Commonwealth and State Officials. His staff, +meanwhile, was kept busy receiving and dispatching his replies to a +mountain of warm-hearted farewell messages, of which the following, from +M. Fihelly, acting Premier of Queensland, and head of the most advanced +Labour Government in Australia, may be taken as a sample:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></p> + +<blockquote><p>"Your Royal Highness's visit will always be gratefully and +affectionately remembered by the Government and people here, who found +the greatest delight in your presence amongst them, and who will +henceforward regard you as a new link uniting the British peoples. We +hope your Royal Highness will have a safe and pleasant homeward voyage, +and that long life and uninterrupted happiness and good health will be +yours. You came to our land as His Majesty's most effective ambassador +to us and we ask you to be our envoy to him, bearing renewed assurances +that the lofty ideals which inspire our race are a living active force +in Australia to-day."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Amongst the individual replies dispatched by the Prince perhaps one of +the happiest went to the Royal Australian Navy, which, after expressing +thanks for escorts and other services, and wishing good luck to all, +ended with the characteristic request that the main-brace might be +spliced.</p> + +<p>In his general farewell message His Royal Highness said:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"I am very sorry that my first visit to Australia is at an end, and +I wish on leaving to express my deep appreciation and gratitude to the +Government and people of the whole Commonwealth for the pleasure and +happiness which they have given me during my all too short stay. +I have been deeply touched by the open-hearted affection shown to me +everywhere, and I hope that Australians have realized how much the +warmth of their welcome has meant to me. It has made my first visit an +experience which I can never forget and which will always bind me to +Australia as a real southern home.</p> + +<p>"Throughout the Commonwealth I have been impressed by the fact that the +Australian people as a whole have just the same free and gallant British +spirit at home which the Diggers showed so splendidly during the war. +Australia has appealed to me intensely as a land where British men +and women may make a new nation as great as any nation of the past, and +I shall be heart and soul with them in their aims and efforts all my +life."</p></blockquote> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo208.png" width="600" height="452" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />EMU ON A SHEEP-RUN<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo208a.png" width="600" height="445" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />GOOD-BYE TO SYDNEY HARBOUR<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span></p> + +<blockquote><p>"I refuse to say good-bye. I have become so fond of Australia now that +she can never be far from my thoughts, wherever I may be; and I look +forward most keenly to the time when I shall be able to return."</p> + +<p>"My affectionate best wishes to her people, one and all."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The last official function attended by the Prince in Australia was an +investiture at Government House, Sydney, at which he conferred the +following decorations on behalf of the King:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>On Major-General Sir C. B. White, Commonwealth Organizer of the visit, +and Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Officer of the Commonwealth Naval Board, +the K.C.V.O.; on Brigadier-General F. H. W. Lloyd, Brigadier-General +Dodds, Commonwealth Assistant Organizer, and Commodore Dumaresque, +commanding the Australian Fleet, the C.V.O.; on Captain the Hon. B. +Clifford, Military Secretary to the Governor-General, the M.V.O.</p> + +<p>The following officers, who were in attendance during the Royal tour, +also received the M.V.O.: Colonel F. B. Heritage, Lieutenant-Colonel +Lionel Robinson, Captain J. G. Duncan Hughes, and Captain R. James, and +it was also conferred upon the following organizers of the Prince's +visit in various States: Mr. Clifford Hay (New South Wales), Mr. +Whitehead (Victoria), Mr. Blinman (South Australia), Mr. Steer +(Queensland), Mr. Shapcott (West Australia), and Mr. Addison (Tasmania).</p> + +<p>Royal Victorian medals were also conferred upon seven motor-drivers who +had been in attendance throughout the tour.</p></blockquote> + +<p>Every newspaper throughout Australia meanwhile made the Prince's +departure its leading theme, the illustrated journals teeming with +pictures connected with his going. The Sydney "Daily Telegraph," on the +day of his leaving, said: "At high water the <i>Renown</i> will carry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> +the Prince through the Heads, on the first stage of his homeward +journey. The Prince himself goes away on another high tide—of +popularity and goodwill."</p> + +<p>"If ever there was danger," the Sydney "Morning Herald" said, "of +Australian opinion being misinterpreted through the utterances of a few +noisy and churlish malcontents, it has been dissipated once and for all +by the Prince's experiences."</p> + +<p>On the 19th August the <i>Renown</i> weighed anchor in brilliant sunshine, +to the sound of music, cheers, and salutes, every headland lined with +people. Flotillas of crowded steamboats raced alongside her as she made +her way to the Heads where the Prince's letters overtook him in a +fast Australian destroyer, which had picked them up from aeroplanes +dispatched especially from Adelaide. As a final courtesy it was a happy +touch, and if the <i>Renown</i> had been a sailing ship would have cheered +her on with airs from home.</p> + +<p>The Prince's visit was over. The unanimity and cordiality of his welcome +everywhere had been a revelation even to the people of the land, who in +the clash of local political creeds had hardly realized before how deep +and universal was their feeling of citizenship in the Empire, or how +warmly this feeling would manifest itself towards one who came to them +standing for that Empire and asking only to learn the glory of +Australia's part in it.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XXIII" id="XXIII"></a>XXIII</h2> + +<h2>EASTWARD HO</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">After leaving Sydney the <i>Renown</i> made a record run, much of it at +twenty knots an hour, to catch up time. The Prince thus arrived at Fiji +punctually to his programme, in spite of having been delayed at Sydney +waiting for the mail. He landed at Suva, where he was received as +cordially and by as large and picturesque a gathering as had greeted his +first arrival at this port. His visit was informal, but he attended a +civic reception in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, followed by a ride +across country which was not without excitement. The party at one point +were on a narrow hill road, with a bank on one side and a steep drop on +the other. The Prince was in front when they reached a tree-trunk which +had fallen across the way, leaving no room to get past. H.R.H. +dismounted and scrambled over with his horse in lead. The Secretary to +the Governor, who was immediately behind, endeavoured to get across +without leaving the saddle, but his animal slipped in landing and went +over the edge. Its rider, although crippled by the loss of one leg, +managed to throw himself off upon the brink, where he clung precariously +while his horse went crashing through the bushes thirty feet beneath +him, rolling over and over as it fell. The Prince was the first to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> +get hold of his companion and help to pull him back unhurt into safety. +Oddly enough, the horse was able to carry him home, when eventually it +had scrambled back to the road.</p> + +<p>The Prince rode for some hours after this incident, dismounting on the +way back, and doing the last eight miles on foot at a swinging pace. A +dinner and dance at Government House finished up the day.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> sailed from Fiji the following day. On reaching Samoa she +lay in the open roadstead, facing misty hills, among which rose steep +green cones of long-dead volcanoes. In the middle distance white-crested +waves flicked their tails with a vicious curl in a leaden rain-flogged +sea, which ended in a white line of breakers where the red roofs of the +town of Apia met the beach. The Prince went off in a bounding launch, +accompanied by Colonel R. W. Tate, the administrator. A mile of rough +and tumble brought the friendly shelter of the reef. Here a number of +long low Samoan canoes, with some forty semi-naked paddlers apiece, met +the launch and escorted it with shouting and beating of wooden drums, as +big as bath-tubs, past the rusty skeleton of the German <i>See Adler</i>, +wrecked upon the bar in the hurricane of 1899, to a quiet wharf, where +the Prince landed in a bower of greenery and bunting. He was received by +the principal people of the island, including the Chief Judge and other +officers of the New Zealand administration, also a number of +missionaries. Addresses of welcome were presented and the Prince was +conducted on foot over carpets of brown mulberry bark to the reception +by the Islanders themselves. Lines of smiling Samoans, naked save<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> +for loin-cloths of mat and bark and necklaces of crimson pandanus +pods the size of fingers, lined the route and brought deep cries of +"Aue!"—"Welcome!"—from the bottom of their lungs. The +procession was slow and imposing. It ended in a grassy space beneath +green coco-nut palms and white-flowering leva trees. The Prince took the +seat of honour in a decorated booth, surrounded by thousands of Samoans, +many of whom had travelled long distances from their homes by canoe. The +ceremonies began with the presentation of a series of Samoan chiefs, +including the "High Intercessor," Malietoa Tanumafili, brother of the +late King Malietoa Laupepa, and the venerable Tuimale Fana, friend of +Robert Louis Stevenson. He is a sturdy, upstanding figure in the +photograph in "Vailima Letters," broad-faced and well covered and +content. That was a quarter of a century ago. Now the years have bent +and dulled him. The years, and perhaps the loss that dulls the world, +for Tusitala tells no more tales to any of us in this South Sea Island +where he lived and where he knew so well he would die. One thought, if +he had been living now, how glad a hand and how rich a memory would have +been added to this journey, and how brimming a cup of Imperial romance +the <i>Renown</i> would have lifted to Stevenson's lips. But Tusitala could +not come to the Prince; so the Prince went to Tusitala, where he lies on +the hill-top that meets the winds from the sea, and stood there for a +while beside him.</p> + +<p>This was later. The Samoan ceremony of welcome was long. The +presentations extended to a bevy of island ladies garbed in frilled +creations of bark, relieved with hibiscus blossoms, as scanty at both<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> +ends as a ball dress out of Bond Street. The High Chief Intercessor +afterwards read an address of welcome in which he declared that God had +been the Prince's helmsman in bringing him to Samoa. A move was +afterwards made—there is no other way of describing the respectful +suggestion, the start, the progress to an official fixture—a move +was afterwards made to a thatched hut where the Prince tasted Samoan +dainties spread out upon mats upon the floor. He also saw articles of +Samoan manufacture, including delicately carved wooden <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Khava'">Kava</ins> bowls, mats +so fine that some of them were valued at a hundred pounds, and <i>tappas</i>, +lengths of soft mulberry-bark cloth painted with many patterns, worn by +the men, quite decorative in effect though not exactly pliable enough to +suit a West End tailor.</p> + +<p>Returning later on to the booth further ceremonies were successfully +encountered, including the preparing and drinking of King's Kava. +Semi-naked warriors, in head-dresses like hay-trusses ornamented with +variegated Berlin wool and pieces of looking-glass held in place by +skewers, chopped and pounded white Kava root, macerated the resultant +pulp in a beautifully carved hard-wood bowl the size of a foot-bath, +with water brought up in solemn procession in a galvanized iron +housemaid's bucket, strained the concoction in a Samoan mat, and carried +it to the Prince in a carved cup of coco-nut. National dances, +participated in by both men and women, followed and a one-legged chief +from one of the neighbouring islands read a further address of welcome. +Offerings were here presented, green coco-nuts, pigs roasted whole, +masses of bark <i>tappas</i> and mats.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> + +<p>The sea had gone down when the Prince re-embarked, and except that the +war-canoes accompanied the launch right out to the <i>Renown</i>, the +ceremonies of departure were much like those of arrival.</p> + +<p>The visit occurred opportunely at a time when these rich islands of +coco-nut and banana plantations were slowly settling down under New +Zealand administration after a long period of uncertainty during the +war, followed by a much-dreaded influenza epidemic, which had swept +away a terribly large proportion of their attractive and easy-going +inhabitants. European residents said the Prince's coming was having an +excellent effect. It was already looked upon as fulfilling the Samoan +prayer that Great Britain should "remember this small branch of the +great tree of Empire." It was treated as an omen. "Healthy are the +travellers," declared one of the addresses, "We now meet with +success"—and in islands so swayed by emotion, picturesque +expressions of this kind no doubt indicate some corresponding reality in +feeling.</p> + +<p>After leaving Samoa the <i>Renown</i> called at Honolulu, where the Prince +spent three days quietly, surf-riding and golfing, his experiences being +largely a repetition of those of his visit to the island on his outward +voyage, except that there were no official ceremonies. He stayed at the +Moana Hotel as an ordinary visitor, dividing his time between the +beautiful Waikiki beach and the country club. Nothing could exceed the +kindness, hospitality, and consideration extended not only to the +Prince, but also to the entire ship's company of the <i>Renown</i> by +Governor McCarthy and other Hawaiian residents, who, while scrupulously +respecting the Prince's desire that the visit should be without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> +functions, did everything imaginable to render it as enjoyable as +possible. The arrangements included drives around the island and other +entertainments for every officer and man of the <i>Renown</i>.</p> + +<p>On leaving, the Prince issued a press note expressing his appreciation. +"I was delighted with Honolulu on my outward voyage," he said, "and most +grateful for the kind welcome and generous hospitality given me by the +Governor, Mr. McCarthy, and every one. I always feel happy amongst +Americans and in American territory, because American life appeals to me +greatly, and I have many American friends—especially since my +short visit to the United States last year, when I was deeply touched by +the most friendly reception accorded me."</p> + +<p>The whole white population of Honolulu assembled on the wharf when the +<i>Renown</i> cast off. Before leaving the Prince had been presented with the +usual farewell offering of ropes of flowers, which he duly flung +overboard, in accordance with immemorial Hawaiian custom, as the ship +left the shore, in token that his friendship remained with this pleasant +island though he himself was compelled to depart. As the ship cleared +the harbour searchlights were played upon the Waikiki beach where so +many enjoyable hours had been spent.</p> + +<p>Crossing the northern Pacific the <i>Renown</i> touched Mexico, where +Acapulco harbour, a deep, sheltered pool amongst hills of ferruginous +rock and verdant jungle, held the ship for a day. On one side were the +square, flat-topped bastions of the fort, with ancient muzzle-loaders +pointing black mouths out of stone embrasures, muzzle-loaders which were +fired quite recently at the late President Carranza's gunboat, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> +<i>Gerriro</i>, when it was shelling revolutionaries ensconced in the +red-tiled city that climbs up the steep slope behind the wharf.</p> + +<p>The fighting was described to us in broken English by Mexican traders +doing business in dark verandahed houses opening out of the narrow +streets. It had surged up and down the town in the form of desultory +rifle-fire between the followers of Carranza, who were in occupation, +and those of the insurgent rebel leader, Avaro Obregon, who eventually +drove them into the interior. Carranza's gunboat simultaneously +disappeared to sea. No great damage was done in the town. All that we +heard of was the looting of shops, which did not appear to have been on +any very considerable scale. After the firing had ceased, the civilians, +who had mostly hidden themselves in the hills, returned and reopened +their places of business.</p> + +<p>At the time of the Prince's visit the walls of Acapulco were plastered +with rough zincograph prints of Avaro Obregon, a soldierly looking +Mexican, whose election for President was voted upon the Sunday before +the <i>Renown</i> put in to that port. Nobody doubted that he would be +declared elected (as has since been the case) for the excellent reason +that no other candidate had been even heard of at Acapulco. In the +disorder so long in the ascendant the entire port has fallen into decay. +Dark-skinned loungers, in white cotton shirts and trousers, bare feet, +and gigantic straw sombrero hats, smoked cigarettes upon benches beneath +plantain trees in the central square. In the market-place were tethered +mules with high-peaked saddles, also doing nothing and enjoying it. A +couple of small bells rang out intermittently from a big Catholic<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> +church with corrugated iron roof, but the only worshipper inside this +draughty place of worship was a guide, who seemed to be returning thanks +for unaccustomed profits brought to him by the royal visit. The planks +of the empty wharf were so rotten that one had to walk warily to avoid +mischance.</p> + +<p>On the beach were a few light fishing boats, one of which was engaged +in taking out three of the Governor's A.D.C.'s through the fine but +deserted harbour to pay his respects to the Prince. The Governor, these +gentlemen explained, was ill or would have been with them. The British +and United States consuls came to the ship, where they were entertained +to lunch.</p> + +<p>The Prince afterwards landed and went for a walk ashore, while the +<i>Renown</i> took in oil-fuel. Bumboats with scarlet sails, presided over by +dusky ladies in black robes and tumbled hair, hawked bananas, melons, +earthen pots, sombrero hats, Mexican swords, coloured blankets, and +other locally manufactured articles, to the blue-jackets.</p> + +<p>An old missionary in the faded uniform of a captain of the Royal Navy, a +rank he once had held, also visited the <i>Renown</i>. He had recently +arrived by mule from Mexico City, some six hundred miles distant. The +road is steep and rocky, but by no means unsafe. The railway, which is +ultimately to connect Acapulco with Mexico City, though partly torn up, +is still in working order for nearly half the way. It may some day +shorten the mail route materially between Europe and Australia. The bags +would be carried overland from some American port on the Atlantic and +re-shipped at Acapulco for the trans-Pacific voyage. Business had not +been altogether suspended in Mexico City, banks remaining open and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span> +motor-cars plying in the streets.</p> + +<p>Little was known in Acapulco of the personality of Avaro Obregon, except +that he had been a successful revolutionary leader. It was hoped he +would prove strong enough to hold his own and put down disorder, thereby +enabling prosperity to return to this much-vexed country, but fighting +in Mexico, as in Ireland, is a temperamental gift and hard to lose.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> put out to sea in a sharp electric storm. Warm tropical +rain came down with insistent hammer, and lightning from all sides at +once threw up the coast in brilliant outline, and illuminated an +enormous crucifix upon one of the headlands, by which Drake may have +steered in his pursuit of Spanish galleons three hundred years ago.</p> + +<p>The passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, on the return journey, was +quickly accomplished. The <i>Renown</i> arrived at Panama at daylight, after +an uneventful voyage from Acapulco. She was received by the American +authorities, who fired a salute of welcome. The Canal was entered +without a stop, and was traversed smoothly and in record time for so big +a vessel. Every lock was clear and every possible facility was afforded.</p> + +<p>Dredgers were still at work at the slip which had delayed the <i>Renown</i> +on her outward voyage, but an almost magical change had been effected in +the interval by the removal of a million cubic yards of rock and earth. +What had been a narrow, tortuous channel in June, had been converted by +September into a spacious pool, where to the casual glance six <i>Renowns</i> +could lie side by side. The hillside above looked as unstable as ever, +but no fresh land-slips were visible, and even if they occur hereafter, +as is to be expected, the canal has space to accommodate considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> +subsidence without interfering with vessels getting through.</p> + +<p>At the Gatun locks the Prince went off by launch, in company with Mr. +Markham, the pisciculturist of the Canal, who succeeded in showing him +some Tarpon fishing. He got back at a late hour, muddy but radiant, with +quite a catch, and re-embarked upon the <i>Renown</i>, which was then +moored alongside the Christobal wharf at Colon, taking in oil. H.M.S. +<i>Calcutta</i> was also there, and the two vessels put out to sea the +following morning.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XXIV" id="XXIV"></a>XXIV</h2> + +<h2>THE WEST INDIES</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">An epidemic in Jamaica abridged the West Indian part of the tour, but +the <i>Renown</i> visited several of the other islands, beginning with +Trinidad, where the flotilla anchored three days after leaving Colon in +the quiet roadstead off Port of Spain. Here Sir John Chancellor, +Governor of the Island, came on board to pay his respects to the Prince, +who shortly afterwards landed.</p> + +<p>The entire city of Port of Spain had been effectively decorated. +Sugar-cane-stalks, cocoa-pods, and coco-nuts, were worked in cleverly +upon arches, spanning its substantial streets, to represent the +agriculture of the Colony. The other main Trinidad industries, asphalt +and oil, were well in evidence in the smooth surface found upon the +roads along which the Royal procession passed. The crowds lining the +route were made up in fairly equal proportions of negroes, East Indians, +and persons of mixed or "coloured" race. Few Europeans were seen until +the Legislative Council building and the Town Hall were reached, where +they were in considerable numbers. Those presented to the Prince +included Messrs. De B. Best, Colonial Secretary, H. B. Walcott, +Controller General, A. G. Bell, Director of Public Works, L. +Elphinstone, Solicitor-General, Colonel Mui, Commandant of the Local<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> +Forces, Major Rust, acting President of the Civic Council, Rev. Dowling, +Catholic Archbishop, Dr. Ansley, Anglican Bishop, Sir Alfred Smith, +Chief Justice, also Justices Russell and Deane, and Father de Caignai, +Head of the Tunapuna Monastery.</p> + +<p>The official address, read by the Governor, made special mention of how +much the island owes to the British Navy, and the Prince in the course +of his reply also dwelt upon this matter: "You have well referred," he +said, "to the security enjoyed by Trinidad during the Great War, in +which the people of this colony contributed in worthy measure to the +victory of British arms. I am particularly glad to have this opportunity +of congratulating the colony upon its fine services, and of meeting some +of the gallant men whom it sent overseas. I am also much pleased to hear +the colony appreciates how much it owes to the Royal Navy for its +tranquil prosperity during those terrible years." Touching upon more +local matters, the Prince said the colony had given a high measure of +prosperity to those whose forbears had made it their home. It had also +provided new opportunities for progress and well-being for a large +immigrant population from His Majesty's Indian Empire. "I feel sure," he +added, "that all its people, not only long established but recently +arrived, will do all in their power to maintain its good traditions of +law-abiding progress and loyalty to British ideals."</p> + +<p>The Prince spent several days in Trinidad, driving through its thickly +wooded hills, past shady cocoa plantations, well-ordered coco-nut +groves, and fields of sugar-cane. He also visited the old-time Spanish +capital of St. Joseph, where an address was presented to him. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> +attended in Port of Spain a state dinner and various other official +functions, besides inspecting a big gathering of children. In the course +of his remarks, replying to the toast of his health at the state dinner, +he said, "I saw a suggestion, before I left England, that the British +Empire might be willing to part with one or more of the British West +Indian Islands to a foreign power, and I should like to say here again +what I said in Barbados in March, that British subjects are not for +sale. I can assure you that the King and all of us in the old country +have very much at heart the welfare of Trinidad and all the British West +Indies, also of all other British possessions," a statement which cannot +be too often repeated in sentiment or exemplified in fact.</p> + +<p>Visits were paid to some of the oil-wells, which are already a source of +much wealth to Trinidad, and promise to become still more important +in the future. The famous pitch lake was a sight along the coast, +forty-five miles out. It is a semi-solidified deposit, lying in a +shallow hollow, a quarter of a mile in diameter, close to the sea, where +men have been digging out black slabs of asphalt for years without +making a perceptible hole. The lake is so near the coast that ships sail +practically up to it to carry away a product which is ultimately spread +over the streets of the world. Fifty thousand tons have been taken out +of it every year for a generation, and the level is estimated to have +sunk only about nine inches. Oil underlies the pitch in the vicinity and +a forest of derricks rises a quarter of a mile away.</p> + +<p>From Trinidad the Prince made a side trip to Demerara, British Guiana, +in the <i>Calcutta</i>, the <i>Renown</i> being too big to cross the bar into +Georgetown harbour. All the sunny richness of this steamy sugar and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> +rice-growing corner of South America was in evidence when he landed at +Georgetown, immediately after the ceremonial visit of the Governor, Sir +William Collet. A fine West Indian guard-of-honour saluted him upon the +pier, and mixed crowds of Anglo-Saxons, negroes, East Indians and +Portuguese cheered in the decorated streets as he proceeded to the +Government buildings. Here more guards-of-honour were inspected, +including armed constabulary and militia. The Prince also shook hands +with a long line of returned men. Entering the building he found the +leaders of the local community assembled, including the principal +officials and their families. An address of welcome was read by Mr. +Brown, a coloured West Indian, senior elected member of the Court of +Policy. Archbishop Parry and General Rice were amongst those presented.</p> + +<p>In the course of his reply the Prince referred to the great potential +wealth of British Guiana and to the determination of its inhabitants to +develop their inheritance to the full. It was essential, he added, that +all parts and sections of the community should pull together loyally, in +order that their future might be assured, and particularly that the +great inland wealth of the colony might be laid open for the benefit of +all. He hoped their ex-service men would prove themselves as +public-spirited and useful citizens in time of peace as they had on +active service in the field.</p> + +<p>Two days passed in Demerara in the enjoyment of the hospitality of +the Governor and other leading residents. Visits were paid to a +largely-attended race meeting, to sugar and rice estates in the +swampy flats around the city, and to some very beautiful botanical +gardens, where the schools of the colony were assembled, and the Prince +passed down dense lines of negro, East Indian, and European children.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo224.png" width="600" height="450" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />SAMOA MAKES MERRY<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illo224a.png" width="600" height="447" alt=""/> +<span class="caption"><br />TRINIDAD: IN THE DRAGON'S MOUTH<br /><br /></span> +</div> + +<p>As the <i>Calcutta</i> put out to sea ten thousand musical West Indian voices<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> +on the Georgetown wharves joined with the light cruiser's band in the +strains of "Auld Lang Syne." Probably never in the history of this +important British outpost in South America has patriotic sentiment held +more undivided sway or the fact been made more clear that the hearts of +its flourishing inhabitants still turn faithfully to the old country. +Its people are looking to England at the moment with some hope, as well, +of that co-ordination of Imperial resources of which British Guiana +stands so much in need. The labour question has never before been so +acute. The recent abolition of the long-established Indian indentures +system, and therewith the cessation of immigration from India, has +synchronized with enormous increases in world prices and world demand +for the sugar which Demerara is so pre-eminently qualified to provide, +and for this more labour is wanted.</p> + +<p>The same question arises in connexion with new industrial developments, +now on the eve of fruition, which must add enormously to the position +that agricultural produce has already won for this colony. These will +come with the exploitation of vast deposits of bauxite-alumina, that +promise expansion of world-wide significance in connexion with steel +manufacture, into which this comparatively new mineral is entering +increasingly. The position, at the time of the Prince's visit, appeared +to be that a million sterling had been spent by an American Company upon +machinery and shipping and railway facilities for handling the ore,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> +and that its effectual arrival upon the market was only a matter of time.</p> + +<p>That an American Company should be spending such a large sum in the +development of natural resources in British territory, was not the least +interesting feature of the situation. It is to Anglo-American +co-operation that Demerara and also the British West Indies must look +increasingly for brains, initiative, and capital for the development of +natural resources which are as yet by no means fully utilized.</p> + +<p>The Prince returned to Trinidad through still steamy seas. Dawn on the +day after leaving Demerara found the <i>Calcutta</i> passing the rocky +portals of the narrowest of the three channels which make up the famous +"Dragon's Mouth" entrance to the roadstead of Port of Spain. The shore +on the landward side of this entrance was dotted with pleasant +verandahed villas and fresh-tilled fields, signs of the civilization +which is pushing back the forest in all parts of the island.</p> + +<p>On reaching Port of Spain the Prince visited H.M.S. <i>Calliope</i>, a light +cruiser just arrived from the north. He also paid a farewell visit to +the Governor, and inspected the local fire brigade. In the evening he +returned to the <i>Renown</i>, which shortly afterwards heaved up her anchors +and left harbour for Grenada.</p> + +<p>At St. George's, the principal town of Grenada, the Prince landed on the +sheltered cove of Carenage, upon a decorated wharf on which was drawn up +a guard-of-honour of the West Indian regiment beneath the stone bastions +of an old French fort. He was received with every formality by the +principal officials, headed by Sir George Haddon-Smith, Governor of the +Windward Islands, Mr. Joyce Thomas, acting administrator of St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> +Vincent, Mr. Herbert Fergusson, Colonial Secretary, Mr. E. Laborde, +Colonial Treasurer, and Sir Thomas Haycroft, Chief Justice, also the +heads of the local Anglican, Presbyterian, Methodist and Catholic +Churches. Thereafter, up steep streets decorated with flowery arches, +beneath the clanging bells of numerous churches, through smiling, +bowing, cheering crowds of cheerful West Indians and their gaily dressed +women and piccaninnies, he was taken by car to the colonial Court-House, +where the leading residents were assembled. He entered through a shaded +courtyard, where he shook hands with a number of returned men and +officers. The address was read in a low-ceilinged legislative assembly +room, with wide French windows commanding a wonderful view of city and +harbour.</p> + +<p>In the course of his reply the Prince said the strength and spirit of +the British Commonwealth could not be fully grasped by anyone without +first-hand knowledge of the British Dominions and Colonies. "The more I +see of the King's world-wide possessions," he added, "the more deeply I +am impressed by the strength of the sentiment which binds them to the +Empire and the throne"—the truth of which was testified to by +every street he had passed through.</p> + +<p>The Prince was afterwards taken by motor into the interior, through some +of the most luxuriant vegetation in the world, past cocoa and nutmeg +plantations, up two thousand feet into the mountains, about the +forest-shaded depths of the circular lake of Grand Etang, the crater of +an extinct volcano. An official lunch and a garden-party at Government +House filled up the day, which ended with a reception given by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> +Prince on the <i>Renown</i> to the principal residents of the island.</p> + +<p>Leaving Grenada at daylight the <i>Renown</i> threaded her way through the +clustering Grenadine Islands and past the steep twin green cones of +the inaccessible Piton peaks, and anchored near the Pigeon +Rock—Admiral Rodney's eighteenth-century naval base.</p> + +<p>The Prince, accompanied by Sir George Haddon-Smith, who had come on with +him from Grenada, landed at Castries at noon, where he was received by +Colonel Davidson-Houston, Administrator of St. Lucia, supported by Mr. +Anthony de Freitas, Chief Justice, and other members of the Executive +Council. St. Lucia's special arch was of coal, token of the colony's +importance as a West Indian coaling-station. From under it His Royal +Highness proceeded through decorated streets, the entire population of +which had assembled to welcome him. The first stopping-place was in +Columbus Square. Here, in the warm shade of big coco-nut palms and mango +trees, a thousand children were drawn up, each school flanked by +teachers, many of whom wore the black cassock of the Catholic Church.</p> + +<p>The Prince afterwards climbed a hill overlooking the town, and wandered +through the deserted barracks of historic fort Charlotte, where his +great-great-grandfather, the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, +hoisted the British flag in 1797, after the capture of the island by +forces under Sir Charles Grey and Sir John Jervis. Here, standing amidst +luxuriant tropical vegetation, he looked northward to the rocky Vigie +promontory, on which he could descry lines occupied by Sir William +Medow's thirteen hundred British, who in 1778 hurled back invading +enemies twelve thousand strong. Westward he looked over the muddy +Cul-de-sac Bay, where Sir Samuel Barrington, in the same year, fought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> +a desperate engagement with the French fleet under Count Destaing. +Eastward also the scene was full of historic interest, for here, beyond +the red roofs of Castries city, was visible a distant palm-shaded beach, +where Moore and Abercromby effected their landing in 1796.</p> + +<p>Descending the steep grassy Morne, the Prince afterwards attended a +popular reception at Government House, and thence went back to the +<i>Renown</i>.</p> + +<p>The still hot dawn of the following day found the ship passing the green +hills of the island of Martinique, birthplace of the Empress Josephine, +also the bare sea-girt Diamond Rock off its coast, where, a hundred +years ago, for eighteen lurid months, gallant Lieutenant Maurice and a +hundred and twenty men with five guns from H.M.S. <i>Centaur</i> beat off +attack and themselves threatened all approach to the important harbour +of the enemy in Fort-de-France. Here also, towering into the clouds, +were visible the dim slopes of Mount Pelee, the eruption of which, +eighteen years before, had brought death in a few hours to forty +thousand people.</p> + +<p>Thereafter, through summer seas, crossing the place of the decisive +battle of the Saints, the <i>Renown</i> pushed on, anchoring before noon off +the pleasant town of Roseau, capital of Dominica Island, and +head-quarters of the lime-juice industry of the world. As she neared the +shore, the ship was met by the sound of cheerful bells, reflected out to +sea from church towers backing upon green hills that rose into peaks, +extending tier beyond tier in the interior, in such tumbled form that +Columbus, describing it to his Queen, compared the island to a fistful +of crumpled paper. Here the light cruisers <i>Calcutta</i> and <i>Cambrian</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> +joined the <i>Renown</i>, the three vessels making a fine show as they lay +together, decked with bunting, in the brilliant sunshine of the +roadstead.</p> + +<p>The Prince landed at a decorated pier jutting out into the harbour. He +was welcomed by Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, +Mr. Robert Walter, a descendant of the founder of "The Times," +Administrator of Dominica, Dr. Nichols, Senior Member of the Senate, and +other leading residents. A guard-of-honour of the local defence force +was in attendance, and a crowd of gaily-dressed West Indians. A little +group of yellow Malay-faced Caribs, representing the survivors of these +now nearly extinct aborigines, stood on one side. Their chief, an old +man in top-hat and black coat, was one of those with whom the Prince +shook hands. The scene as the Prince proceeded inland from the wharf, +with cheering West Indians racing alongside his car, was one of much +quaint excitement and enthusiasm. He was taken in procession through +decorated streets, masses of coloured Dominicans and their womenfolk +clapping, shouting and laughing as he passed. "Than' God I not die las' +week," was one pious cry, to the accompaniment of the widest grin.</p> + +<p>Some beautiful botanical gardens, containing big trees, all grown in +the space of twenty-seven years, were inspected, and a visit paid to +Government House, which stands in pleasant, shady grounds. The Prince +re-embarked in the <i>Renown</i> at sunset.</p> + +<p>Unlike most of the other West Indian islands, which did well out of +sugar during the war, Dominica, when the Prince visited it, was +recovering only slowly from war depression which had hit its previously +flourishing lime industry hard. This very depression, however, had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> +increased the available openings for newcomers, good land offering at +very reasonable rates. As the result, we were told, increasing numbers +of returned men were settling there, with bright hopes of making good +amongst beautiful surroundings and in a climate which is one of +perpetual summer.</p> + +<p>At Monserrat, a small island with open, cultivated fields contrasting +with the dense tropical jungle of Dominica, the Prince was received by +Mr. Condell, the Commissioner, and other leading inhabitants of the +colony, which is prospering in the good prices at present offering for +its sea-island cotton. Boiling sulphur springs, in a vast rocky cauldron +of steam, upon a mountain-side covered with aromatic cinnamon gardens +and flourishing fields of sea-cotton and potatoes, were things to see if +not to smell. The Prince was cheered by crowds of coloured folk, who, in +their broken English, still retain distinct traces of a brogue inherited +from one side of an ancestry which dates back to 1664, when Irish +immigrants were taken to the island by Sir Thomas Warner. It was a +quaint mixture.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> put out to sea in still murky weather, with a yellow ring +round the moon, signs significant to all sailor eyes, and not rendered +more cheerful by the knowledge that a wireless message had reached the +ship, reporting one hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico and another off the +coast of Texas.</p> + +<p>The <i>Renown</i> slipped through a smooth sea, however, to Antigua, +completely escaping bad weather. Antigua proved to be another open +island, not unlike Monserrat. The ship anchored five miles at sea off +St. John's, a small sheltered harbour in which, three centuries ago, +Prince Rupert successfully attacked two of Cromwell's ships. Here a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span> +number of wooden fishing boats, of half a dozen different nationalities, +formed a lane of many-coloured bunting through which the Prince's +picket-boat was conducted to a decorated wharf.</p> + +<p>Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, who had come on +in the <i>Renown</i>, Mr. Johnston, Colonial Secretary, Mr. Griffith, +Colonial Treasurer, Very Rev. Shepherd, Dean of Antigua, and members of +the local Executive and Legislative Councils welcomed the Prince at the +landing-stage. Thereafter, through decorated streets of dazzling white +wooden houses, reflecting back the tropical sun, and alive with cheering +coloured folk, the Prince went in procession to the old colonial +Court-House. Here, in the presence of an assemblage of the leading +citizens and their families, an address of welcome was read by Mr. +Griffin, Chief Justice of Antigua.</p> + +<p>The Prince replying, referred to Nelson's having refitted his ships in +this island before the Trafalgar campaign. He once again testified that +his own travels had been a wonderful experience and that he hoped to +have many opportunities of repeating and extending them in the future.</p> + +<p>A pretty function followed on the breezy cricket ground, where a +surprisingly large gathering of white school-children, besides masses of +coloured mites, cheered the Prince enthusiastically. A state luncheon +was afterwards given by the Governor, followed by a popular reception in +Government House Grounds. The <i>Renown</i> then sailed for the Bermudas, and +the Royal visit to the West Indies, during which the Prince's cheery +presence had produced the happiest impression, was over. The pleasure of +the Europeans at seeing him in their isolated corner of the globe was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span> +almost pathetic. For those of West Indian blood the occasion was also a +memorable one. It certainly revived feelings of solidarity with Great +Britain which have sometimes been strained by that preaching of +race-prejudice from which no people situated as these are can ever be +completely exempt, be the white administration never so tactful.</p> + +<p>Never, perhaps, has there been greater occasion for tact, as well as +strength and sympathy, in the political guidance of the Islands than +exists to-day. At the moment the West Indians are exceedingly prosperous +on the whole, owing to the phenomenal war-prices their sugar, cotton and +other produce have been fetching in the markets of the world. But the +quarter of century or so of lean years that preceded the last half-dozen +fat ones, have limited their outlook and retarded their development in +all directions. They have become isolated. They lie between two worlds, +with a tendency to take their ideas from their neighbour the United +States rather than from the distant Mother Country or from Canada.</p> + +<p>The only public information of any interest reaching them by cable of +happenings throughout the world is supplied through New York. American +capital is displacing British for the development of their mineral and +other resources. Their agricultural produce tends more and more to find +its way to the United States. Their visitors from Great Britain and the +Dominions are few compared with those arriving from America; yet that +this state of things can be changed is proved by the partial revival in +relations with the British Empire that has followed the conclusion of +the recent admirable West-Indian-Canadian Agreement.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span></p> + +<p>This agreement, however, is only one step in the right direction, and +requires to be followed by many more. Direct steamers and direct +cable communication with Great Britain are specially needed. The +growing demand of the West Indian population for progress towards +self-government, within the Empire, is also a matter of which the +importance cannot be too strongly emphasized, though self-government +cannot be realized without local readiness to face additional taxation +and expenditure.</p> + +<p>The splendid colonial Civil Service, sent out from London, has governed +the British West Indies faithfully and well for many years, despite +inadequate remuneration, and often discouraging deficiency in +recognition from public opinion at home; but the day when rectitude in +administration and efficiency in maintaining security and justice were +sufficient by themselves to satisfy the imagination of a coloured people +is passing away. The time is coming for new developments, in the +interests alike of the West Indies and of the Empire as a whole.</p> + +<p>The direction these developments must take is indicated by the nature of +the situation that stands so plainly in view. Its evolution upon +practical lines, in relation to the all-important question of the +raising of funds necessary to pay for direct steamers and cable services +and the attraction of settlers and capital from the British Empire, is a +matter that, though difficult, is no longer impossible as in the past, +for the reason that the recent growth in material prosperity in the +islands has removed the bar hitherto existing to proposals for new +taxation. In all consideration of the matter, of course, the fact has to +be envisaged that the post-war conditions, which are affecting the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> +world as a whole, are potent also in the British West Indies, and that +no policy which does not take them into account can remain at all +permanently in force in these important islands.</p> + +<p>The position of the negro population in the United States necessarily +reacts upon that of the corresponding people under British rule. +Propaganda is undoubtedly passing from negro organs in the Republic to +all the British islands. This propaganda takes into consideration the +political conditions in Cuba and Puertorico, which differ +constitutionally from those obtaining in the British West Indian +colonies. It has also to be remembered that the constitutions of the +various individual British islands differ amongst themselves, and that +the formulation of a uniform policy for their development may reasonably +be looked for in the near future. Such a policy must recognize the +interests of the labouring classes as well as of the old planter +families. It would seem, at present, that the Governments have some +difficulty in reconciling these two points of view, towards which they +have equal responsibilities.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="XXV" id="XXV"></a>XXV</h2> + +<h2>THE BERMUDAS</h2> + +<p class="dropcap">The picturesque islands of Bermuda, in the North Atlantic, the last +halting-place upon the Prince's tour, put up a brave show in honour of +the Royal visitor. The <i>Renown</i> anchored at daylight on 1st October in +the open sea off what is known as "Five Fathom Hole," where the cobalt +of the deeper sea shaded into greenish patches above treacherous coral +reefs. Through tortuous channels the <i>Calcutta</i>, to which the Prince +had transhipped, felt her way, skirting on her left a prominent rock +celebrated as the "Ducking Stool," testing-spot of seventeenth-century +witches and place of punishment of scolds, where a battery of artillery +fired a salute. A little inland of the Ducking Stool a green hummock +rose, topped by Government House. Admiralty House also stood out +pre-eminent amongst smaller villas. On the right, as the <i>Calcutta</i> +passed on, curved a long sickle-shaped arm of rock forming the +other side of the harbour, and terminating in the white sheds and +fortifications of the naval dockyard. In the middle were tiny rocky +islets between which the <i>Calcutta</i> steered with margin only of a few +feet on either side. Upon the way the U.S.A. battleship <i>Kansas</i>, under +Rear-Admiral Hughes, a vessel sent to Bermuda by the United States<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> +Government in honour of the Prince's visit, fired a welcoming salute.</p> + +<p>Coral-rock houses are a characteristic feature of Bermuda. They are +built of squared blocks sawn out of the hillside, and have sloping roofs +of similar stone rendered watertight with cement. One finds them +everywhere. In the country their grey walls and roofs are surrounded by +wildernesses of brilliant flowers, including purple <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bougainvilliers'">bougainvilleas</ins>, the +aptly named "flamboyants," and pink oleanders, with smooth lawns, +terraced vineyards, and overgrown vegetable gardens sheltered by sombre +conifers. In the city one finds sky-scraper hotels and substantial +offices, workshops of Bermuda's principal industry, which is that of +catering for the American tourist, who flies to this sunny spot to +escape the New York winter, and dine where he may still drink.</p> + +<p>The Prince's visit took place in the off-season of hot weather when the +principal hotels are closed. The entire city had nevertheless been +decorated, and a large proportion of the twenty thousand inhabitants the +islands boast, assembled along the Club Wharf in Hamilton City, where +the landing took place. They consisted, for the most part, of cheerful +negroes and coloured folk, with a considerable proportion of +well-dressed whites, including many Americans. A guard-of-honour of the +Royal Sussex Regiment, in familiar khaki, stood to attention on the +landing-stage, rifle-barrels gleaming in the fierce sun. Here also +waited Sir James Willcocks in white uniform ablaze with war medals, also +Admirals Hughes and Everett and their staffs, and the principal civilian +officials in the perspiring black morning dress of more temperate zones.</p> + +<p>The Prince and his staff landed unostentatiously in white naval kit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> +from a brass-funnelled steam picket-boat. The usual procession of +carriages was formed, after the reception formalities, each drawn by a +fine pair of horses, and the Prince was taken through decorated streets +to the House of Assembly, where he inspected a guard-of-honour composed +of seamen from H.M.S. <i>Calcutta</i>. Within were assembled members of the +Executive and Legislative Councils and other leading residents and their +families, in the garb with which civilized ceremony defies temperatures +the world over.</p> + +<p>The Governor read an address of welcome, in the course of which he +reminded the Prince of their having met in France, where he, Sir James, +was in command of the Indian Army Corps. The Prince, in the course of +his reply, referred to the celebration of the tercentenary of the +establishment of representative institutions in Bermuda, then taking +place in the island, having been postponed for a month to coincide with +his own visit. He also acknowledged the courtesy of the United States +Government in sending the U.S.S. <i>Kansas</i> to meet him. In conclusion he +touched upon the impressions left upon himself by his tour and its +lesson of the unity, strength and devotion which bind all parts of His +Majesty's dominions to British ideals.</p> + +<p>Later on in the garden of the public buildings the Prince laid the +foundation-stone of a war-memorial, the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps +and Militia artillery furnishing guards-of-honour, and relatives of +fallen men being presented.</p> + +<p>On the following day the Prince inspected the Royal Navy dockyard, and +placed a wreath upon the grave of the late Admiral Napier, until +recently in command of the Royal West Indian squadron, who was one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> +the victims of an outbreak of typhoid in these islands. He also paid a +farewell visit to H.M.S. <i>Calcutta</i>, Flagship of the Royal West Indian +Squadron, which had been his escort throughout the tour in these waters, +and said good-bye to its officers and men, at the same time conferring +the Knight Commandership of the Victorian Order upon Admiral Everett, +and the Companionship on Captain Noble, R.N.</p> + +<p>The final day of the Prince's visit to Bermuda found him at St. George, +the quaint coral-built old capital, to which he drove himself from +Government House, Hamilton, in a high-seated mail phaeton, with two +horses, Sir James Willcocks beside him. The drive was twelve miles along +the coast, through most beautiful country, a fresh sea-breeze mitigating +the heat, which had previously been trying. Much of the way the road was +shaded by feathery Lignum-vitæ trees, here known as cedars, which have +deliciously scented wood and were once a rich asset for shipbuilding. +Flowering groves of pink oleander, dense thickets of scarlet, pink and +yellow hibiscus, purple masses of <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bougainvilliers'">bougainvilleas</ins> bordered the way, which +was past garden after garden of the wonderful rich red loam which has +won for Bermuda potatoes, Bermuda onions and Bermuda bananas a +reputation almost world-wide.</p> + +<p><i>En route</i> the Prince alighted to look into the shadowy depths of the +Devil's Grotto, a deep rock-bound pool of clearest water connected with +the sea, in which big fish of brilliant colours swim lazily. He also +wandered hundreds of yards underground, through an extraordinary rift +in the coral formation known as the Crystal cave, from hundreds of +thousands of semi-transparent stalactites, many of them reaching from +floor to ceiling, in some cases overhanging still pools of clear salt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> +water, or forming grotesque figures, with which the electric lamps, that +light the place, played the most fantastic tricks. The cave is one of a +number in different parts of the islands, and claims to be of +extraordinary antiquity, the stalactites growing at so slow a rate that +a hundred thousand years are believed to be represented by a mere +fraction of their length.</p> + +<p>The entire route from Hamilton to St. George had been decorated, the +arches representing an immense amount of willing labour. One of them had +been solidly constructed of square blocks of sawn coral rock by coloured +volunteers, who had built it at night after their ordinary working hours +were over. Another, which had been put up by members of the garrison, +was a wonderfully worked-out reproduction of the sailing ship <i>Patience</i> +built near by, over three hundred years ago, by which the shipwrecked +crew of Sir George Somer's ship <i>Sea Venture</i> made their way to +Virginia. This arch was entirely constructed of the local cedar, which +was the wood used in building the <i>Patience</i>.</p> + +<p>At St. George the Prince was entertained by Mayor Boyle and members of +the local town council, the Mayor's tiny but very self-possessed +grand-daughter presenting a bouquet, the last local attention of the +tour. He was given a great send-off when he finally embarked by launch +to rejoin the <i>Renown</i> waiting for him beyond the reefs with the end of +her mission in sight and her blunt grey nose pointing toward home.</p> + +<p>Eight days later, on the 11th October, early in the morning, the heart +of England turned for a moment to her old harbour of Portsmouth, where, +through one of her own October fogs, her great battle-cruiser was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> +drawing majestically into port, bringing home from his second journey to +kinsfolk the eldest son of her Royal House. Perhaps the heart of England +felt a certain pride....</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<h2><a name="XXVI" id="XXVI"></a>XXVI</h2> + +<h2>THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TOUR</h2> + +<blockquote><p>This Chapter is, by kind permission, largely reproduced from +an article by the writer published in the "Nineteenth Century" of +December, 1920.</p></blockquote> + +<p class="dropcap">"The tumult and the shouting dies," and what, now that it is over, +remains to Britain of the enterprise? What treasure came back in the +<i>Renown</i> to make this Royal adventure worth while?</p> + +<p>The word may be disputed. The nation's heir, it may be said, does not +adventure in travelling to the hearths of kinsfolk. There is no +adventure in a voyage surrounded by every means of safety and comfort +that modern science can devise, a voyage backed by the blessing and sped +by the hope and pride of this sound old Mother Country. Yet in the fluid +state of social and political emotion to-day it was an adventure, a +challenge in the very teeth of those unbridled forces that are so +blatant and busy in the disservice of the British Empire, and a +challenge before which not one of them raised its head.</p> + +<p>The constantly recurring scene of the Prince making acquaintance with +overseas audiences is long since familiar. It has been depicted in the +columns of hundreds of newspapers and actually thrown before the eyes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> +of thousands in cinemas. It is far more than a twice-told tale that His +Royal Highness was everywhere received with enthusiasm which was +altogether phenomenal, that he was everywhere able to draw the whole of +the inhabitants of the places he visited away from their business, their +occupation or their pleasure, to concentrate during the time he was +amongst them, the whole of their attention and interest upon himself, +and the idea of race, Empire and loyalty for which he stands. In so far +as the hackneyed words of newspaper reports can produce that effect, +their reiteration must by now have turned the remarkable scenes of his +progress into a kind of Royal commonplace, and retired them into the +back of the popular imagination as matters to be taken for granted. It +is difficult to put into terms of flags and decorations, patriotic songs +and calculated multitudes, however gay and hoarse and unexampled, +anything of the fine essence discharged from men's hearts and minds that +made the soul of these occasions. Only perhaps to those who actually saw +them will they survive conventional description, as experiences of the +rare sort that baffle it. It did not seem to matter who his audiences +were. Keen, sharp American business men with square jaws and shrewd +eyes, to whom a Prince would necessarily hover somewhere between a +figure of mediaeval romance and a comic anachronism, proved no less +susceptible to the something he has to offer than the crowds of our own +family in New Zealand, Tasmania or New South Wales. Queensland, with its +advanced Labour Government, its public ownership of utilities and +enterprises, its schedules of progress in which at least no conspicuous +place is allotted to Royal personages, proved just as enthusiastic as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> +did conservative New Zealand. Centres of culture, learning and wealth +like Sydney and Melbourne, showed exactly the same spirit as did rough +mining and logging camps, and lonely sheep stations in the far interior. +Cornish gold diggers of Bendigo and Ballarat rivalled the cordial +welcome of the Welsh coal-miners of Westport and <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Graymouth'">Greymouth</ins>. Catholic +Irishmen newly arrived in cattle stations in Northern and Western +Australia mustered as keenly in honour of the Prince as Presbyterian +farmers in settled Tasmania. Fuzzy-headed Fijians, dignified Samoans, +Polynesians of Honolulu, negroes of Demerara and Trinidad seethed and +bubbled with like enthusiasm.</p> + +<p>There was more than the personal factor in an appeal so widely honoured, +more than the touch of romance upon imaginations untravelled along Royal +roads, yet recollection harks back irresistibly to the spectacle of the +human equation as between the Prince and his audiences. There is no +other way of explaining their quick pleasure at the sight of him and +their instant and unerring formulas for his relation to themselves and +to the world. Anything mechanical, anything perfunctory, would have worn +out with the first gratification of curiosity; but a point which struck +the onlooker was that enthusiasm grew instead of cooling off, as the +Prince's visit to each place continued and as acquaintance with him +ripened. "Yes, but only once," was a little Australian girl's wistful +answer when asked if she had seen the Prince. Nor were children of a +larger growth content with only once. Their eyes could not be too well +filled with this young symbol of their race and Empire, whose person +pleased them and whose negligence of the pomp and privileges their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> +minds had given him upset their preconceptions with a thrill of delight. +To be of the Imperial present, with its dignity and untarnished +splendour, to come of the Royal past with its long discipline of duty +and decoration of anointed names, and to let it all sink as the Prince +lets it sink into the simplest background of his personality, is an +achievement—or should it be called just a habit—which makes +at once the happiest appeal to human nature, the world over. He does not +even appear to be aware that these things should do anything for him. He +is as diffident as, say, the naval officer who blocked Zeebrugge harbour +or the flight-lieutenant who brought down the first Zeppelin over +London. The touch is British and of the essence. It is an odd +inconsistency of race consciousness which makes us recognize and take +pride in it, but we do. Another characteristic almost as immediately +perceived by an audience is the Prince's plain delight in giving +pleasure, his obvious satisfaction in doing the thing that he has to do +and doing it well. There are endless stories of his disregard of +physical fatigue in the desire to take out of himself every ounce that +could be given to the gratification of public gatherings. There is never +a hint of boredom in his face or bearing. Thus the bond of sympathy is +complete. The people are there and he is there for the same purpose, and +nothing breaks the circuit of goodwill. There was something naïve and +touching in the constantly possessive note that hailed him "ours" from +the wharfs of Sydney to the string-bark avenues of Perth; and to this +claim also something in the Prince responds with an unselfishness that +might be the supreme lesson of kings.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Prince's personality is greatly deepened and broadened by his +speeches, which in their simplicity and directness are perfectly the +expression of himself. They never exaggerate, and they never fall short. +They are pervaded by a sincerity that is perhaps more than anything the +secret of their instant appeal. There is no forcing of the note, no +effort at elaboration, no sacrifice to rhetorical points. Withal he says +the things that people instinctively expect and want to hear, and he +says them with a happy grace and a plain belief in the message that +underlies them all, the assurance of the strength and solidarity of the +Empire for which he speaks.</p> + +<p>The whole projection of this Royal personality upon the world is +extraordinary. Look at the circumstances under which it is made. The +passionate under-trend of society towards the dogmas of democracy, the +tragic extinction, within the last five years, of more than one dynasty, +the perpetual tendency of privilege, royal as well as any other, to +liquesce into the common stream of human rights, are all against him. +One would have supposed that roses strewn in the path of a Prince, at +this point of the world's history, if strewn at all, would be none of +nature's growing. Yet this Prince seems to prove that the King and the +King's heir are far more a part of the people and bred from the nation, +than any president. The Prince stands for the people. His character has +been formed, his ideals fostered by healthy English training. It may +possibly not be far-fetched to say that he is the product of intensive +cultivation along national lines. Thus he appeals to the nation's pride +of possession, and his place in their hearts is ready before he occupies +it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span></p> + +<p>It is no depreciation of the personal magnetism of the Heir to the +Throne to say that he brought to light and stimulated Imperial +enthusiasm already existing below the surface, and waiting only to be +evoked, rather than that he created anything not already in being. +Nevertheless, it must be remembered that the idea of the Empire as a +union of sister nations co-operating and sharing ideals and hopes in a +future they are bound together to bring about, is a young idea, as young +as the Prince. It is not long since the Dominions and India had little +beyond domestic affairs to exercise their powers of administration upon; +their share in the Imperial idea was largely commercial, and chiefly +concerned with the attraction of capital for the development of their +natural resources. They had no voice in the world policy of the +Anglo-Saxon race, and no apparent prospect of getting it. The Prince and +his youth happily blend in the new partnership and the new prospect, +making for all of us a very potential figure. Beside the charm, the +buoyancy of youth, he has the romance of an epoch of world history full +of possibilities for the peoples who live under the British flag. To +this romance he contributes all that he is, and he contributes it in the +most whole-hearted manner.</p> + +<p>The Prince was never tired of referring in his speeches to the bond +created by common service in the great war. Wherever he went it was the +returned soldier that he must see and greet, wounded or whole—how +often has this chronicle had to dwell upon the long lines of them. +"Returned sailors and soldiers, relations of the fallen, nurses and +war-workers," backed by the shouting school-children—they have +risen perhaps with some iteration before the eye of those who have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> +followed the tale. But, looking back, the splendour fades out of the +tropic sky and the opulence out of the great city, the whole panorama of +sheep-run and factory, orchard and mine rolls up into a decoration; and +the meaning of all we saw abides in those men and women and children +working out their lot and their lives far from the home of the race, but +standing, and ready to stand again, for its flag and its ideals.</p> + +<p>"One heritage we share though seas divide," declared the citizens of +Sydney with the emphasis of a triumphal arch. The claim rang true. +Distance cannot weaken this tie, nor oceans wash it out. No one +undervalues the picturesqueness of the emotion the Prince has evoked +amongst members of other races living under Anglo-Saxon tutelage and +protection, but the real significance is in what it has drawn from +peoples of our own stock. Supreme among the values that come out of it +is the enduring quality of the British portion in the things of the mind +and of character, in ideals, and standards. It is no vague sentiment +that binds together the various branches of our people, but a unity that +lives. The part of the Prince of Wales has been to waken a new +consciousness throughout the Anglo-Saxon world. He stands for all that +joins us and for all that we can do when we are together.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> + +<blockquote><p>Acapulco, <a href="#Page_216">216</a><br /> +<br /> +Adams (Sir Hamilton G.), <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br /> +<br /> +Addison (Organizer, Tasmania), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Adelaide, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br /> +<br /> +Albany, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +<br /> +Allan (Pte. Duncan), <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Allardice (Sir Wm.), <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +Allen (Captain M. C.), <a href="#Page_129">129</a><br /> +<br /> +American Kindness, <a href="#Page_26">26,</a> <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +<br /> +American-West-Indian Relations, <a href="#Page_233">233</a><br /> +<br /> +Amiens, <a href="#Page_179">179</a><br /> +<br /> +Anglo-American Co-operation, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> +<br /> +Ansley (Bishop, Trinidad), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +Antigua, <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Anzac</i> (H.M.A.S.), <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> +<br /> +Arthur's Pass, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +<br /> +Ashburton, <a href="#Page_94">94</a><br /> +<br /> +Atkinson (Mr. Robert), <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br /> +<br /> +Auckland, <a href="#Page_47">47</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Australia</i> (H.M.A.S.), <a href="#Page_46">46,</a> <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<br /> +Australian Bight, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +<br /> +Avaro Obregon, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Baker (Broken Hill Co.), <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br /> +<br /> +Balboa, <a href="#Page_19">19,</a> <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +<br /> +Balclutha, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Ballarat, <a href="#Page_109">109</a><br /> +<br /> +Barbados, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +<br /> +Barton (Sir Edmund), <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br /> +<br /> +Barwell (Premier, S. Australia), <a href="#Page_163">163,</a> <a href="#Page_164">164,</a> <a href="#Page_165">165</a><br /> +<br /> +Bass Strait, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<br /> +Bathurst, <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Beerburrum, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +Bell (Mr. Norris), <a href="#Page_158">158</a><br /> +<br /> +Bell (Mr. A. G.), <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Bellringer (Mr. F.), <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Bendigo, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +<br /> +Bennett (Brig.-General), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Bennett (Mr. Percy), <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Bermuda, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br /> +<br /> +Berry (Sir Graham), <a href="#Page_105">105</a><br /> +<br /> +Best (Mr. de B.), <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Bethell (Major-General), <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Black (Mr. Stuart), <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> +<br /> +Blake (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Blayney, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> +<br /> +Blenheim, <a href="#Page_74">74</a><br /> +<br /> +Blinman (Organizer, S. Australia), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Blue Mountains, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br /> +<br /> +Board (Director Education, N.S.W.), <a href="#Page_127">127</a><br /> +<br /> +Boonah, <a href="#Page_188">188</a><br /> +<br /> +Boyle (Mayor, St. George), <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> +<br /> +Bridges (General), <a href="#Page_132">132</a><br /> +<br /> +Bridgetown, <a href="#Page_173">10,</a> <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br /> +<br /> +Brighton, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +<br /> +Brisbane, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> +<br /> +Brisbane River, <a href="#Page_183">183,</a> <a href="#Page_185">185</a><br /> +<br /> +Broken Hills Proprietary Co., <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br /> +<br /> +Brown (Mayor, Napier), <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +Brown (Member, Court of Policy), <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br /> +<br /> +Brunner Valley, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +<br /> +Bulla Bulling, <a href="#Page_155">155</a><br /> +<br /> +Buller River, <a href="#Page_76">76,</a> <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +<br /> +Butler (Architect), <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> +</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span></p> + +<blockquote><p><i>Calcutta</i> (H.M.S.), <a href="#Page_10">10,</a> <a href="#Page_223">223</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Calliope</i> (H.M.S.), <a href="#Page_80">80,</a> <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Cambrian</i> (H.M.S.), <a href="#Page_230">230</a><br /> +<br /> +Camperdown, <a href="#Page_107">107</a><br /> +<br /> +Canadian-West-Indian Agreement, <a href="#Page_233">233</a><br /> +<br /> +Canberra, <a href="#Page_119">119,</a> <a href="#Page_132">132</a><br /> +<br /> +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Canoblas'">Canobolas</ins> Mountains, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> +<br /> +Canoubar, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br /> +<br /> +Canterbury Plain, <a href="#Page_94">94</a><br /> +<br /> +Carroll (Sir James), <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> +<br /> +Carruthers (General), <a href="#Page_24">24</a><br /> +<br /> +Carter (Lady), <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +<br /> +Casino, <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br /> +<br /> +Castlemaine, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +<br /> +Castries, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +<br /> +Cattaneo (Monsignor), <a href="#Page_185">185,</a> <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br /> +<br /> +Chancellor (Sir John), <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Charlotte Sound, <a href="#Page_73">73</a><br /> +<br /> +Charlotte Bay, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Chaytor (General Sir E.), <a href="#Page_61">61,</a> <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Christchurch, <a href="#Page_81">81,</a> <a href="#Page_83">83</a><br /> +<br /> +Christian (Brig.-General), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Claremount, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> +<br /> +Clifford (Capt. Hon. B.), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Colac, <a href="#Page_106">106</a><br /> +<br /> +Collier (Mr. P.), <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +<br /> +Colon, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> +<br /> +Condell (Commissioner, Monserrat), <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> +<br /> +Cook (Sir Joseph), <a href="#Page_112">112,</a> <a href="#Page_118">118</a><br /> +<br /> +Coolgardie, <a href="#Page_155">155</a><br /> +<br /> +Coonamble, <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Cooroy, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +Coronado Beach, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> +<br /> +Cottisloe, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> +<br /> +Culebra Cut, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br /> +<br /> +Cullen (Sir William), <a href="#Page_128">128</a><br /> +<br /> +Cutler (N.S.W., Shipbuilding), <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Dalrymple (Colonel S.), <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Dannevirke, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> +<br /> +Davidson-Houston (Colonel), <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +<br /> +Deane (Judge, Trinidad), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +de Caignai (Father), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +de Freitas (Mr. Anthony), <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +<br /> +Delprat (Broken Hills Co.), <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br /> +<br /> +Demerara, <a href="#Page_223">223</a><br /> +<br /> +Dodds (Brig.-General), <a href="#Page_112">112,</a> <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Dominica, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br /> +<br /> +Dragon's Mouth, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> +<br /> +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Dubho'">Dubbo</ins>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> +<br /> +Dowling (Archbishop, Trinidad), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +Duhig (Archbishop, Queensland), <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br /> +<br /> +Dumaresq (Commodore), <a href="#Page_121">121,</a> <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Duncan-Hughes (Capt. J. G.), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Dunedin, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Duntroon, <a href="#Page_131">131</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Eden, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<br /> +Elphinstone (Solicitor-General, Trinidad), <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Estell (Minister of Works, Commonwealth), <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +Everett (Admiral), <a href="#Page_237">237,</a> <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Farm Park, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br /> +<br /> +Farm Cove, <a href="#Page_121">121</a><br /> +<br /> +Fassifern, <a href="#Page_135">135</a><br /> +<br /> +Father of the Ship, <a href="#Page_36">36</a><br /> +<br /> +Featherston, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +Fechan (Australian New Zealand Co.), <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br /> +<br /> +Feilding, <a href="#Page_131">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Fergusson (Mr. Herbert), <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> +<br /> +Fihelly (Acting Premier, Queensland), <a href="#Page_178">178,</a> <a href="#Page_185">185,</a> <a href="#Page_190">190,</a> <a href="#Page_208">208.</a><br /> +<br /> +Fiji, <a href="#Page_131">41,</a> <a href="#Page_211">211</a><br /> +<br /> +Frankton, <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> +<br /> +Fraser (Sir William), <a href="#Page_61">61,</a> <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Fremantle, <a href="#Page_145">145</a><br /> +<br /> +</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote><p> +Galbraith (Mayor, Ashburton), <a href="#Page_94">94</a><br /><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span> +<br /> +Gatun Locks, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Gawler, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +Geelong, <a href="#Page_105">105</a><br /> +<br /> +Georgetown, <a href="#Page_223">223</a><br /> +<br /> +Gibson (Mayor, Newcastle), <a href="#Page_139">139</a><br /> +<br /> +Gisborne, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +<br /> +Gore, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Gosford, <a href="#Page_139">139</a><br /> +<br /> +Grand Etang, <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> +<br /> +Grant (Rear-Admiral), <a href="#Page_112">112,</a> <a href="#Page_118">118,</a> <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Great Dividing Range, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +<br /> +Great North West, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> +<br /> +Grenada, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> +<br /> +Greymouth, <a href="#Page_79">79,</a> <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br /> +<br /> +Griffin (Ch. Justice, Leeward Is.), <a href="#Page_232">232</a><br /> +<br /> +Griffith (Colonial Treasurer, Antigua), <a href="#Page_232">232</a><br /> +<br /> +Grigg (Lt.-Colonel Sir E.), <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> +<br /> +Groom (Minister Works, Commonwealth), <a href="#Page_133">133</a><br /> +<br /> +Gunn (S. Australian Labour Party), <a href="#Page_165">165</a><br /> +<br /> +Gympie, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Haddon-Smith (Sir George), <a href="#Page_226">226,</a> <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +<br /> +Hagley Park, <a href="#Page_82">82</a><br /> +<br /> +Halsey (Admiral Sir Lionel), <a href="#Page_36">36,</a> <a href="#Page_150">150</a><br /> +<br /> +Hamilton, <a href="#Page_53">53,</a> <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> +<br /> +Hamilton (Mr. Gavin), <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Hamilton (Lord Claud), <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> +<br /> +Hankins (Mrs. J. H.), <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Hapa Tenure, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> +<br /> +Harding (Engineer-Colonel, Panama Canal), <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Harrisville, <a href="#Page_188">188</a><br /> +<br /> +Hastings, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> +<br /> +Hawaii, <a href="#Page_30">30</a><br /> +<br /> +Hawera, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +<br /> +Hawkes Bay, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +Hawkesbury River, <a href="#Page_135">135</a><br /> +<br /> +Hay (Mr. Clifford), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Haycroft (Sir Thomas), <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> +<br /> +Heritage (Colonel F. B.), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +High Street, <a href="#Page_177">177</a><br /> +<br /> +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Hinomaa'">Hinemoa</ins> (Princess), <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br /> +<br /> +Hislop (Mr. James), <a href="#Page_61">61,</a> <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Hobart, <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +Hobbs (General Sir Talbot), <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br /> +<br /> +Hobson (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br /> +<br /> +Hodgson (N.S.W. Railways), <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br /> +<br /> +Hokitika, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<br /> +Holmes (Otira Tunnel), <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +<br /> +Holloway (Mr. E. J.), <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br /> +<br /> +Honolulu, <a href="#Page_139">27,</a> <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +<br /> +Huntley, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> +<br /> +Hughes (Rt. Hon. William), <a href="#Page_139">103,</a> <a href="#Page_112">112</a><br /> +<br /> +Hughes (Rear-Admiral), <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br /> +<br /> +Humphries (W. Australian Saw Mills), <a href="#Page_148">148</a><br /> +<br /> +Hutt Valley, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Hygeia</i> (S.S.), <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Inangahua, <a href="#Page_78">78,</a> <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<br /> +Invercargill, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Ipswich, <a href="#Page_188">188</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Jackaroo (The), <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> +<br /> +James (Capt. R.), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Jellibrand (Major-Gen. Sir J.), <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +Jervis Bay, <a href="#Page_118">118</a><br /> +<br /> +Jobson (Brig.-Gen.), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Johnston (Admiral), <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Johnston (Colonial Secretary, Leeward Is.), <a href="#Page_232">232</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Kaahumanu (Queen), <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br /> +<br /> +Kaitangata, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Kalgoorlie, <a href="#Page_156">156</a><br /> +<br /> +Kamshamcha (King), <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Kansas</i> (U.S.S.), <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br /> +<br /> +Kawananakoa (Princess), <a href="#Page_32">32</a><br /> +<br /> +Kelso, <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Kennedy (Colonel), <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Kidnappers' Island, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span><br /> +King's Kava, <a href="#Page_44">44,</a> <a href="#Page_214">214</a><br /> +<br /> +Kyneton, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +<br /> +</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote><p>Laborde (Mr. E.), <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> +<br /> +Landsborough, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +Lascelles (Messrs. & Co. etc.), <a href="#Page_106">106</a><br /> +<br /> +Lathlain (Mayor, Perth), <a href="#Page_141">141,</a> <a href="#Page_142">142,</a> <a href="#Page_143">143</a><br /> +<br /> +Launceston, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br /> +<br /> +Lawson, <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Lee (Sir Walter), <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +Lefevre (Señor), <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> +<br /> +Legge (General), <a href="#Page_131">131</a><br /> +<br /> +Leigh (Capt. Hon. Piers), <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> +<br /> +Lennon (Hon. Mr.), <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br /> +<br /> +Liliuokalani (Queen), <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br /> +<br /> +Liverpool (Earl of), <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Liverpool Hills, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> +<br /> +Lloyd (Brig.-General H. W.), <a href="#Page_112">112,</a> <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Lockyer Plain, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> +<br /> +Loma Point, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +<br /> +Lucas (Messrs. & Co.), <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br /> +<br /> +Luke (Mayor, Wellington), <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +Lyttleton, <a href="#Page_83">83</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +McDougall (Sergeant, V.C.), <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +MacDougall (Wire factory), <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br /> +<br /> +McEwan (Australian and N.Z. Land Co.), <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +McCarthy (Governor, Hawaii), <a href="#Page_130">30,</a> <a href="#Page_215">215,</a> <a href="#Page_216">216</a><br /> +<br /> +MacDonald (Opposition, N.Z. Govt.), <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +McGeachie (Mr. Duncan), <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +McLeod (Canoubar Run), <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br /> +<br /> +MacMillan (Justice), <a href="#Page_108">141</a><br /> +<br /> +MacNamara, (Mr. D. L.), <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br /> +<br /> +Macquarie Lake, <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +McVilly (N.Z. Railways), <a href="#Page_62">62,</a> <a href="#Page_108">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Malietoa Laupepa, <a href="#Page_213">213</a><br /> +<br /> +Malietoa Tanumafili, <a href="#Page_213">213</a><br /> +<br /> +Manawatu River, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Markham (Panama Canal Officer), <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> +<br /> +Martin (Brig.-General), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Martinique, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br /> +<br /> +Marton, <a href="#Page_65">65</a><br /> +<br /> +Maryborough, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +Massey (Rt. Hon. William), <a href="#Page_50">50,</a> <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br /> +<br /> +Mataura, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Maungatapu, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +<br /> +Maxwell (Mayor, Brisbane), <a href="#Page_183">183</a><br /> +<br /> +Melbourne, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> +<br /> +Mereweather (Sir Edward), <a href="#Page_230">230,</a> <a href="#Page_232">232</a><br /> +<br /> +Miller (Sir Dennison), <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br /> +<br /> +Milner (Dr. F.), <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Miraflores, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br /> +<br /> +Mitchell (Premier, W. Australia), <a href="#Page_141">141,</a> <a href="#Page_144">144,</a> <a href="#Page_149">149</a><br /> +<br /> +Moana Hotel, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +<br /> +Mokoia, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br /> +<br /> +Monserrat, <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> +<br /> +Moonee Valley, <a href="#Page_117">117</a><br /> +<br /> +Morgan (Mr. F. H.), <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> +<br /> +Mosgiel, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Moulder (Mayor, Adelaide), <a href="#Page_164">164,</a> <a href="#Page_169">169</a><br /> +<br /> +Mountbatten (Lord Louis), <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br /> +<br /> +Mount Egmont, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Mount Wallace, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Mui (Colonel), <a href="#Page_22">222</a><br /> +<br /> +Mundaring Weir, <a href="#Page_154">154</a><br /> +<br /> +Murchison, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> +<br /> +Murray River, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br /> +<br /> +Mutch (Education Minister, N.S.W.), <a href="#Page_127">127</a><br /> +<br /> +Myowera, <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Napier, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +Napier (Admiral), <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br /> +<br /> +Nelson Park, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +Nelson, <a href="#Page_74">74,</a> <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +<br /> +Neptune on the <i>Renown</i>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br /> +<br /> +Newcastle, <a href="#Page_135">135,</a> <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +Newdegate (Sir Francis), <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span></p> + +<blockquote><p><i>New Mexico</i> (U.S.S.), <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +<br /> +New Plymouth, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Newport (Surgeon, Commander), <a href="#Page_151">151</a><br /> +<br /> +New South Wales, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> +<br /> +New York Hospitality, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> +<br /> +Ngata (Hon. Mr. A. T.), <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> +<br /> +Ngaruawahia, <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br /> +<br /> +Ngauruhoe, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Niall (Canoubar Estate), <a href="#Page_194">194</a><br /> +<br /> +Nichols (Senator, Dominica), <a href="#Page_230">230</a><br /> +<br /> +Noble (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> +<br /> +North (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_36">36</a><br /> +<br /> +North Island, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br /> +<br /> +Nullarbor Plain, <a href="#Page_158">158</a><br /> +<br /> +Nyngan, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Oamaru, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +O'Brien (Sir Charles), <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br /> +<br /> +O'Donovan (N.Z. Police), <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Ogden (Tasmanian Govt., Opposition), <a href="#Page_171">171</a><br /> +<br /> +Oliver (Shire President, Coonamble), <a href="#Page_193">193</a><br /> +<br /> +Otira, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +<br /> +Otway Forest, <a href="#Page_107">107</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Pahiatua, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> +<br /> +Palmerston-North, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Panama, <a href="#Page_15">15,</a> <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> +<br /> +Parallah, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +<br /> +<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Paramatta'">Parramatta</ins>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a><br /> +<br /> +Parkerville, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br /> +<br /> +Parry (Archbishop, Demerara), <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br /> +<br /> +Patea, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +<br /> +Patrick (Lt.-Commander, R.N.), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Port Adelaide, <a href="#Page_168">168</a><br /> +<br /> +Port Augusta, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +Port Chalmers, <a href="#Page_96">96,</a> <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> +<br /> +Port Melbourne, <a href="#Page_118">118</a><br /> +<br /> +Port of Spain, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Port Phillip, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +<br /> +Portsmouth, <a href="#Page_1">1,</a> <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> +<br /> +President of Panama, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br /> +<br /> +Pukikura Park, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Queanbeyan, <a href="#Page_131">131</a><br /> +<br /> +Queensland, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<br /> +Quorn, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Rai Hills, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +<br /> +Railways (N.Z.), <a href="#Page_88">88</a><br /> +<br /> +Rangitoto, <a href="#Page_48">48</a><br /> +<br /> +Red-legs, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Renown</i> (H.M.S.), <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> +<br /> +Reefton, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<br /> +Rhodes (Mr. Tahu), <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Rice (General), <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br /> +<br /> +Riley (Archbishop, Perth), <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> +<br /> +Rimutaka, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +Roberts (Mrs.), <a href="#Page_170">170</a><br /> +<br /> +Robinson (Lt.-Colonel), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Rodondo Island, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +<br /> +Rodwell (Sir Cecil), <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br /> +<br /> +Rosenthal (Major-General Sir C.), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +Rotorua, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br /> +<br /> +Ruahine, <a href="#Page_65">65</a><br /> +<br /> +Russell (Judge, Trinidad), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +Rust (Mayor, Port of Spain), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +Ryrie (Major-General), <a href="#Page_130">130</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +St. George's, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> +<br /> +St. Joseph, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +St. Hilda, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> +<br /> +St. Lucia, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br /> +<br /> +Sale of West Indies, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> +<br /> +Saluting the Quarterdeck, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Samoa, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +<br /> +San Diego, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br /> +<br /> +Scholefield (Professor Guy), <a href="#Page_62">62</a><br /> +<br /> +Scott (Mayor, Suva), <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br /> +<br /> +Scott (Sir Bickham), <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br /> +<br /> +Seddon (late Prime Minister, N.Z.), <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<br /> +Seddon (Mr. Thomas), <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span></p> + +<blockquote><p>Shapcott (Organizer, W. Australia), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Simonin (Monsignor), <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Sleeman (Lt.-Colonel), <a href="#Page_61">61,</a> <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> +<br /> +Smith (Sir Alfred), <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> +<br /> +South Australia, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +Southern California, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br /> +<br /> +South Island, <a href="#Page_73">73</a><br /> +<br /> +Spencer Gulf, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +Stephens (Governor, California), <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br /> +<br /> +Storey (Premier, N.S.W.), <a href="#Page_123">123,</a> <a href="#Page_124">124,</a> <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br /> +<br /> +Stratford, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +<br /> +Steer (Organizer, Queensland), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Strong (Colonel), <a href="#Page_127">127</a><br /> +<br /> +Subiaco, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> +<br /> +Suva, <a href="#Page_211">211</a><br /> +<br /> +Swan River, <a href="#Page_141">141,</a> <a href="#Page_145">145</a><br /> +<br /> +Sydney, <a href="#Page_119">119,</a> <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Sydney</i> (H.M.A.S.), <a href="#Page_142">142</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Tahua Ceremony, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br /> +<br /> +Taranaki, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Tarawera, <a href="#Page_55">55</a><br /> +<br /> +Tate (Colonel R. W.), <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> +<br /> +Taylor (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_38">38</a><br /> +<br /> +Tekuiti, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Temuka, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Terowie, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> +<br /> +Thacker (Mayor, Christchurch), <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br /> +<br /> +Thakombau (King), <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br /> +<br /> +Theodore (Premier, Queensland), <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br /> +<br /> +Thomas (Sir Godfrey), <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> +<br /> +Thomas (Mr. Joyce), <a href="#Page_227">227</a><br /> +<br /> +Tiaro, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> +<br /> +Timaru, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Toowoomba, <a href="#Page_191">191</a><br /> +<br /> +Toronto, <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +Trinidad, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Tuamarina, <a href="#Page_73">73</a><br /> +<br /> +Tuimale Fana, <a href="#Page_213">213</a><br /> +<br /> +Tudor (Leader Opposition, Victoria), <a href="#Page_104">104,</a> <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br /> +<br /> +Tunbridge, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br /> +<br /> +Turakina River, <a href="#Page_65">65</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Victoria, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br /> +<br /> +Visiting the Ship, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> +<br /> +Vowles (Leader Opposition, Queensland), <a href="#Page_185">185</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Waikiki Beach, <a href="#Page_30">30,</a> <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br /> +<br /> +Waimarino Forest, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br /> +<br /> +Waipukurau, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br /> +<br /> +Wairarapa, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +Waitaki River, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br /> +<br /> +Walcott (Mr. H. B.), <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> +<br /> +Wallangarra, <a href="#Page_178">178,</a> <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br /> +<br /> +Walsh Island, <a href="#Page_136">136</a><br /> +<br /> +Walter (Mr. Robert), <a href="#Page_230">230</a><br /> +<br /> +Walters (Captain, R.N.), <a href="#Page_118">118</a><br /> +<br /> +Wangamoa, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br /> +<br /> +Wanganui, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br /> +<br /> +Ward (Sir Joseph), <a href="#Page_87">87</a><br /> +<br /> +Ward-room Mess, <a href="#Page_6">6</a><br /> +<br /> +Warwick, <a href="#Page_181">181</a><br /> +<br /> +Watt (Mayor, Hamilton), <a href="#Page_53">53</a><br /> +<br /> +Weigall (Sir Archibald), <a href="#Page_163">163,</a> <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br /> +<br /> +Wellington, <a href="#Page_69">69,</a> <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> +<br /> +Werribee Plain, <a href="#Page_105">105</a><br /> +<br /> +Western Australia, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> +<br /> +West Maitland, <a href="#Page_177">177</a><br /> +<br /> +Westport, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br /> +<br /> +Wheatley (Dr.), <a href="#Page_118">118</a><br /> +<br /> +White (Major-Gen. Sir Brudenell), <a href="#Page_112">112,</a> <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +Whitehead (Organizer, Victoria), <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Yearwood (Mr. Graham), <a href="#Page_11">11</a> +</p></blockquote> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p class="center"><b><i>Printed in Great Britain by</i> Butler & Tanner, <i>Frome and London</i></b></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<h3>A SELECTION FROM</h3> + +<h2><span class="smcap">Messrs. Methuen's</span></h2> + +<h3>PUBLICATIONS</h3> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<blockquote><p>This Catalogue contains only a selection of the more important books +published by Messrs. Methuen. A complete catalogue of their publications +may be obtained on application.</p></blockquote> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p><b>Bain (F. W.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">A Digit of the Moon</span>: a Hindoo Love Story. <span class="smcap">The Descent of the Sun</span>: A Cycle +of Birth. <span class="smcap">A Heifer of the Dawn.</span> <span class="smcap">In the Great God's Hair.</span> <span class="smcap">A Draught of the +Blue.</span> <span class="smcap">An Essence of the Dusk.</span> <span class="smcap">An Incarnation of the Snow.</span> <span class="smcap">A Mine of +Faults.</span> <span class="smcap">The Ashes of a God.</span> <span class="smcap">Bubbles of the Foam.</span> <span class="smcap">A Syrup of the Bees.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Livery of Eve.</span> <span class="smcap">The Substance of a Dream.</span> <i>All Fcap. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">An Echo of the Spheres.</span> <i>Wide Demy</i>. 12<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. <i>net</i>.</p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Balfour (Graham).</b> THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. <i>Fifteenth +Edition. In one Volume. Cr. 8vo. Buckram</i>, 7<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Belloc (H.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, 8<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">Hills and the Sea</span>, 6<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">On Nothing and +Kindred Subjects</span>, 6<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">On Everything</span>, 6<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">On Something</span>, +6<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">First and Last</span>, 6<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">This and That and the Other</span>, +6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Marie Antoinette</span>, 18<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>. <span class="smcap">The Pyrenees</span>, 10<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. +<i>net</i>.</p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Bloemfontein (Bishop of).</b> ARA CŒLI: <span class="smcap">An Essay in Mystical Theology.</span> +<i>Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo</i>. 5<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p>FAITH AND EXPERIENCE. <i>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE CULT OF THE PASSING MOMENT. <i>Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo</i>. 5<i>s</i>. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p>THE ENGLISH CHURCH AND REUNION. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>SCALA MUNDI. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Chesterton (G. K.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Ballad of the White Horse.</span> <span class="smcap">All Things Considered.</span> <span class="smcap">Tremendous +Trifles.</span> <span class="smcap">Alarms and Discursions.</span> <span class="smcap">A Miscellany of Men.</span> <i>All Fcap. 8vo.</i> +6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Wine, Water, and Song.</span> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">The Uses of Diversity.</span> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Clutton-Brock (A.).</b> WHAT IS THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN? <i>Fourth Edition. +Fcap. 8vo</i>. 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>ESSAYS ON ART. <i>Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>ESSAYS ON BOOKS. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>MORE ESSAYS ON BOOKS. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Cole (G. D. H.).</b> SOCIAL THEORY. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Conrad (Joseph).</b> THE MIRROR OF THE SEA: Memories and Impressions. +<i>Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Einstein (A.).</b> RELATIVITY: THE SPECIAL AND THE GENERAL THEORY. +Translated by <span class="smcap">Robert W. Lawson</span>. <i>Third Edition Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Eliot (T. S.).</b> THE SACRED WOOD: <span class="smcap">Essays on Poetry.</span> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Fyleman (Rose.).</b> FAIRIES AND CHIMNEYS. <i>Fcap. 8vo. Eighth Edition.</i> +3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE FAIRY GREEN. <i>Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Gibbins (H. de B.).</b> INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL OUTLINES. With Maps +and Plans. <i>Tenth Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 5 Maps and a Plan. +<i>Twenty-seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i></p> + +<p><b>Gibbon (Edward).</b> THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. Edited, with +Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by <span class="smcap">J. B. Bury</span>. Illustrated. <i>Seven +Volumes.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> Illustrated. <i>Each</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <i>Also in +Seven Volumes. Cr. 8vo. Each</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Glover (T. R.).</b> THE CONFLICT OF RELIGIONS IN THE EARLY ROMAN EMPIRE. +<i>Ninth Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>POETS AND PURITANS. <i>Second Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>FROM PERICLES TO PHILIP. <i>Third Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>VIRGIL. <i>Fourth Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE CHRISTIAN TRADITION AND ITS VERIFICATION. (The Angus Lecture for +1912.) <i>Second Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Grahame (Kenneth).</b> THE WIND IN THE WILLOWS. <i>Eleventh Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Hall (H. R.).</b> THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE NEAR EAST FROM THE EARLIEST +TIMES TO THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS. Illustrated. <i>Fifth Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> +21<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Hawthorne (Nathaniel).</b> THE SCARLET LETTER. With 31 Illustrations in +Colour by <span class="smcap">Hugh Thomson</span>. <span class="smcap">Wide Royal 8vo.</span> 31<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[2]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Holdsworth (W. S.).</b> A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. <i>Vols. I., II., III. Each +Second Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Inge (W. R.).</b> CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. (The Bampton Lectures of 1899.) +<i>Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Jenks (E.).</b> AN OUTLINE OF ENGLISH LOCAL GOVERNMENT. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> +Revised by <span class="smcap">R. C. K. Ensor</span>. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW: <span class="smcap">From the Earliest Times to the End of +the Year 1911.</span> <i>Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Julian (Lady) of Norwich.</b> REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by <span class="smcap">Grace +Warrack</span>. <i>Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Keats (John).</b> POEMS. Edited, with Introduction and Notes, by <span class="smcap">E. de +Sélincourt</span>. With a Frontispiece in Photogravure. <i>Fourth Edition. Demy +8vo.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Kidd (Benjamin).</b> THE SCIENCE OF POWER. <i>Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>SOCIAL EVOLUTION. <i>Demy 8vo.</i> 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Kipling (Rudyard).</b> BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. <i>208th Thousand. Cr. 8vo. +Buckram</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <i>Also Fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Cloth,</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>; +<i>leather</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>Also a Service Edition. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Square fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 3<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE SEVEN SEAS. <i>157th Thousand.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo. Buckram</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> +<i>Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth</i>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>; <i>leather,</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>Also a Service Edition. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Square fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 3<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE FIVE NATIONS. <i>126th Thousand.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo. Buckram</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <i>Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth</i>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>; <i>leather</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>Also a Service Edition. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Square fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 3<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. <i>94th Thousand.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo. Buckram</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <i>Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth</i>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>; <i>leather</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>Also a Service Edition. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Square fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 3<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE YEARS BETWEEN. <i>Cr. 8vo. Buckram</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <i>Also on thin +paper. Fcap. 8vo. Blue cloth,</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>; <i>Limp lambskin</i>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>Also a Service Edition. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Square fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 3<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>HYMN BEFORE ACTION. Illuminated. <i>Fcap. 4to.</i> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>RECESSIONAL. Illuminated. <i>Fcap. 4to.</i> 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>TWENTY POEMS FROM RUDYARD KIPLING. <i>360th Thousand. Fcap. 8vo.</i> 1<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Lamb (Charles and Mary).</b> THE COMPLETE WORKS. Edited by <span class="smcap">E. V. Lucas</span>. <i>A +New and Revised Edition in Six Volumes.</i> <i>With Frontispieces. Fcap. +8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>The volumes are:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>I. <span class="smcap">Miscellaneous Prose.</span> II. <span class="smcap">Elia and the Last Essay of Elia.</span> III. <span class="smcap">Books +for Children.</span> IV. <span class="smcap">Plays and Poems</span> V. and VI. <span class="smcap">Letters.</span></p> + +<p>THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With an Introduction by <span class="smcap">E. V. Lucas</span>, and 28 +Illustrations by <span class="smcap">A. Garth Jones</span>. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Lankester (Sir Ray).</b> SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. +<i>Thirteenth Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>DIVERSIONS OF A NATURALIST. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>SECRETS OF EARTH AND SEA. <i>Cr. 8vo</i>. 8<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Lodge (Sir Oliver).</b> MAN AND THE UNIVERSE: <span class="smcap">A Study of the Influence of +the Advance in Scientific Knowledge upon our Understanding of +Christianity.</span> <i>Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE SURVIVAL OF MAN: <span class="smcap">A Study in Unrecognised Human Faculty.</span> <i>Seventh +Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>MODERN PROBLEMS. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>RAYMOND; <span class="smcap">or Life and Death</span>. Illustrated. <i>Twelfth Edition. Demy 8vo.</i> +15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Lucas (E. V.).</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Life of Charles Lamb</span>, <i>2 vols.</i>, 21<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Wanderer in +Holland</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Wanderer in London</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">London Revisited</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Wanderer in Paris</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net</i> and 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Wanderer in Florence</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A +Wanderer in Venice</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Open Road</span>: A Little Book for +Wayfarers, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net</i> and 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Friendly Town</span>: A +Little Book for the Urbane, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Fireside and Sunshine</span>, 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Character and Comedy</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Gentlest Art</span>: A Choice of +Letters by Entertaining Hands, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Second Post</span>, 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Her Infinite Variety</span>: A Feminine Portrait Gallery, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">Good Company</span>: A Rally of Men, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">One Day and Another</span>, 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Old Lamps for New</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Loiterer's Harvest</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">Cloud and Silver</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Boswell of Baghdad, and other Essays</span>, +6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">'Twixt Eagle and Dove</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Phantom Journal, +and other Essays and Diversions</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Specially Selected</span>: A +Choice of Essays, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The British School</span>: An Anecdotal +Guide to the British Painters and Paintings in the National Gallery, +6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Travel Notes.</span></p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[3]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>McDougall (William).</b> AN INTRODUCTION TO SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGY. <i>Sixteenth +Edition. Cr. 8vo.</i> 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>BODY AND MIND: <span class="smcap">A History and a Defence of Animism.</span> <i>Fifth Edition.</i> +<i>Demy 8vo.</i> 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Maeterlinck (Maurice)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Blue Bird</span>: A Fairy Play in Six Acts, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Mary Magdalene</span>; A +Play in Three Acts, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Death</span>, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Our Eternity</span>, +6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Unknown Guest</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Poems</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Wrack of the Storm</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Miracle of St. Anthony</span>: A Play in +One Act, 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Burgomaster of Stilemonde</span>: A Play in +Three Acts, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Betrothal</span>; or, The Blue Bird Chooses, 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Mountain Paths</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Story of Tyltyl</span>, 21<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Milne (A. A.).</b> <span class="smcap">The Day's Play.</span> <span class="smcap">The Holiday Round.</span> <span class="smcap">Once a Week.</span> <i>All Cr. +8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Not that it Matters.</span> <i>Fcap 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">If I +May.</span> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Oxenham (John)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Bees in Amber</span>; A Little Book of Thoughtful Verse. <span class="smcap">All's Well</span>: A +Collection of War Poems. <span class="smcap">The King's High Way.</span> <span class="smcap">The Vision Splendid.</span> <span class="smcap">The +Fiery Cross.</span> <span class="smcap">High Altars</span>: The Record of a Visit to the Battlefields of +France and Flanders. <span class="smcap">Hearts Courageous.</span> <span class="smcap">All Clear!</span> <span class="smcap">Winds of the Dawn.</span> +<i>All Small Pott 8vo.</i> <i>Paper</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> <i>net</i>; <i>cloth boards</i>, 2<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Gentlemen—The King</span>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Petrie (W. M. Flinders).</b> A HISTORY OF EGYPT. Illustrated. <i>Six Volumes.</i> +<i>Cr. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 9<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. I. From the Ist to the XVIth Dynasty.</span> <i>Ninth Edition.</i> (10<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i>)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. II. The XVIIth and XVIIIth Dynasties.</span> <i>Sixth Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. III. XIXth to XXXth Dynasties.</span> <i>Second Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. IV. Egypt under the Ptolemaic Dynasty.</span> <span class="smcap">J. P. Mahaffy.</span> <i>Second +Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. V. Egypt under Roman Rule.</span> <span class="smcap">J. G. Milne.</span> <i>Second Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vol. VI. Egypt in the Middle Ages.</span> <span class="smcap">Stanley Lane Poole.</span> <i>Second Edition.</i></p> + +<p>SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA LETTERS. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p>EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. First Series, IVth to XIIth +Dynasty. Illustrated. <i>Third Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. Second Series, XVIIITH to +XIXTH Dynasty. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Pollard (A. F.).</b> A SHORT HISTORY OF THE GREAT WAR. With 19 Maps. <i>Second +Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Price (L. L.).</b> A SHORT HISTORY OF POLITICAL ECONOMY IN ENGLAND FROM ADAM +SMITH TO ARNOLD TOYNBEE. <i>Tenth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Reid (G. Archdall).</b> THE LAWS OF HEREDITY. <i>Second Edition.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> +£1. 1<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Robertson (C. Grant).</b> SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND DOCUMENTS, 1660-1832. +<i>Third Edition.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Selons (Edmund).</b> TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS. Illustrated. <i>Nineteenth +Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>TOMMY SMITH'S OTHER ANIMALS. Illustrated. <i>Eleventh Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. +8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>TOMMY SMITH AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> +2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i></p> + +<p>TOMMY SMITH AGAIN AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. <i>Second Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. +8vo.</i> 2<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i></p> + +<p>JACK'S INSECTS. <i>Popular Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p>JACK'S OTHER INSECTS. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p><b>Shelley (Percy Bysshe).</b> POEMS. With an Introduction by <span class="smcap">A. Clutton-Brock</span> +and Notes by <span class="smcap">C. D. Locock</span>. <i>Two Volumes.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> £1 1<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Smith (Adam).</b> THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited by <span class="smcap">Edwin Cannan</span>. <i>Two +Volumes. Second Edition.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> £1 10<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Stevenson (R. L.).</b> THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. Edited by Sir +<span class="smcap">Sidney Colvin</span>. <i>A New Rearranged Edition in four volumes. Fourth +Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Surtees (R. S.).</b> HANDLEY CROSS. Illustrated. <i>Ninth Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. +8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. Illustrated. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">ASK MAMMA: or, THE RICHEST COMMONER IN ENGLAND.</span> Illustrated. <i>Second +Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>JORROCKS'S JAUNTS AND JOLLITIES. Illustrated. <i>Seventh Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. +8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>MR. FACEY ROMFORD'S HOUNDS. Illustrated. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">HAWBUCK GRANGE; or, THE SPORTING ADVENTURES OF THOMAS SCOTT, Esq.</span> +Illustrated. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>PLAIN OR RINGLETS? Illustrated. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>HILLINGDON HALL. With 12 Coloured Plates by <span class="smcap">Wildrake</span>, <span class="smcap">Heath</span>, and <span +class="smcap">Jellicoe</span>. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[4]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Tilden (W. T.).</b> THE ART OF LAWN TENNIS. Illustrated. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Tileston (Mary W.).</b> DAILY STRENGTH FOR DAILY NEEDS. <i>Twenty-seventh +Edition.</i> <i>Medium 16mo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Underhill (Evelyn).</b> MYSTICISM. A Study in the Nature and Development of +Man's Spiritual Consciousness. <i>Eighth Edition.</i> <i>Demy 8vo.</i> 15<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Vardon (Harry).</b> HOW TO PLAY GOLF. Illustrated. <i>Thirteenth Edition.</i> +<i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Waterhouse (Elizabeth).</b> A LITTLE BOOK OF LIFE AND DEATH. <i>Twentieth +Edition.</i> <i>Small Pott 8vo. Cloth,</i> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Wells (J.).</b> A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. <i>Seventeenth Edition.</i> With 3 Maps. +<i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i></p> + +<p><b>Wilde (Oscar).</b> THE WORKS OF OSCAR WILDE. <i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> <i>Each</i> 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<blockquote><p>I. <span class="smcap">Lord Arthur Savile's Crime and the Portrait of Mr. W. H.</span> II. <span class="smcap">The +Duchess of Padua.</span> III. <span class="smcap">Poems.</span> IV. <span class="smcap">Lady Windermere's Fan.</span> V. <span class="smcap">A Woman of +No Importance.</span> VI. <span class="smcap">An Ideal Husband.</span> VII. <span class="smcap">The Importance of Being +Earnest.</span> VIII. <span class="smcap">A House of Pomegranates.</span> IX. <span class="smcap">Intentions.</span> X. <span class="smcap">De Profundis +and Prison Letters.</span> XI. <span class="smcap">Essays.</span> XII. <span class="smcap">Salomé, A Florentine Tragedy</span>, and +<span class="smcap">La Sainte Courtisane.</span> XIII. <span class="smcap">A Critic in Pall Mall.</span> XIV. <span class="smcap">Selected Prose +of Oscar Wilde.</span> XV. <span class="smcap">Art and Decoration.</span></p></blockquote> + +<p>A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES. Illustrated. <i>Cr. 4to.</i> 21<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Yeats (W. B.).</b> A BOOK OF IRISH VERSE. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> <h2>Part II.—A Selection of Series</h2> + +<hr class="tb" /> +<h3>Ancient Cities</h3> + +<p class="center">General Editor, <span class="smcap">Sir B. C. A. WINDLE</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<p class="center">With Illustrations by <span class="smcap">E. H. New</span>, and other Artists</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Bristol. Canterbury. Chester. Dublin.</span></p></blockquote> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Edinburgh.</span> <span class="smcap">Lincoln.</span> <span class="smcap">Shrewsbury Wells</span> and <span class="smcap">Glastonbury.</span></p></blockquote> + +<h3>The Antiquary's Books</h3> + +<p class="center">General Editor, J. CHARLES COX</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Demy 8vo.</i> 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<p class="center">With Numerous Illustrations</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Ancient Painted Glass in England.</span> <span class="smcap">Archæology and False Antiquities.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Bells of England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Brasses of England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Castles and Walled +Towns of England.</span> <span class="smcap">Celtic Art in Pagan and Christian Times.</span> <span +class="smcap">Church-wardens' Accounts.</span> <span class="smcap">The Domesday Inquest.</span> <span class="smcap">English +Church Furniture.</span> <span class="smcap">English Costume.</span> <span class="smcap">English Monastic Life.</span> <span class="smcap">English Seals.</span> +<span class="smcap">Folk-Lore as an Historical Science.</span> <span class="smcap">The Gilds and Companies of London.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Hermits and Anchorites of England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Manor and Manorial Records.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Mediæval Hospitals of England.</span> <span class="smcap">Old English Instruments of Music.</span> +<span class="smcap">Old English Libraries.</span> <span class="smcap">Old Service Books of the English Church.</span> <span class="smcap">Parish +Life in Mediæval England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Parish Registers of England.</span> <span class="smcap">Remains of +the Prehistoric Age in England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Roman Era in Britain.</span> <span class="smcap">Romano-British +Buildings and Earth-works.</span> <span class="smcap">The Royal Forests of England.</span> <span class="smcap">The Schools of +Mediæval England.</span> <span class="smcap">Shrines of British Saints.</span></p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[5]</a></span></p> + +<h3>The Arden Shakespeare</h3> + +<p class="center">General Editor, R. H. CASE</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Demy 8vo.</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<p>An edition of Shakespeare in Single Plays; each edited with a full +Introduction, Textual Notes, and a Commentary at the foot of the page.</p> + +<h3>Classics of Art</h3> + +<p class="center">Edited by <span class="smcap">Dr. J. H. W. LAING</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>With numerous Illustrations.</i> <i>Wide Royal 8vo</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Art of the Greeks</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Art of the Romans</span>, 16<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Chardin</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Donatello</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">George Romney</span>, +15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Ghirlandaio</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Lawrence</span>, 25<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span +class="smcap">Michelangelo</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Raphael</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span +class="smcap">Rembrandt's Etchings</span>, Two Vols., 25<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Tintoretto</span>, +16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Titian</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Turner's Sketches and Drawings</span>, +15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Velazquez</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>The 'Complete' Series</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>Fully Illustrated.</i> <i>Demy 8vo</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Complete Amateur Boxer</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Association +Footballer</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Athletic Trainer</span>, 10<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Billiard Player</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Complete Cook</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Cricketer</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Foxhunter</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Golfer</span>, 12<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Hockey-Player</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Complete Horseman</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Jujitsuan.</span> <i>Cr. +8vo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Lawn Tennis Player</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">The Complete Motorist</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Mountaineer</span>, +16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Oarsman</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> The Complete +Photographer, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Rugby Footballer, on the New +Zealand System</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Shot</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">The Complete Swimmer</span>, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Complete Yachtsman</span>, 16<i>s.</i> +<i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>The Connoisseur's Library</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>With numerous Illustrations.</i> <i>Wide Royal 8vo.</i> 25<i>s.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">English Coloured Books.</span> <span class="smcap">English Furniture.</span> <span class="smcap">Etchings.</span> <span class="smcap">European Enamels.</span> +<span class="smcap">Fine Books.</span> <span class="smcap">Glass.</span> <span class="smcap">Goldsmiths' and Silversmiths' Work.</span> <span class="smcap">Illuminated +Manuscripts.</span> <span class="smcap">Ivories.</span> <span class="smcap">Jewellery.</span> <span class="smcap">Mezzotints.</span> <span class="smcap">Miniatures.</span> <span class="smcap">Porcelain.</span> +<span class="smcap">Seals.</span> <span class="smcap">Wood Sculpture.</span></p></blockquote> + +<h3>Handbooks of Theology</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>Demy 8vo</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Doctrine of the Incarnation</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A History of Early +Christian Doctrine</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Introduction to the History of +Religion</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">An Introduction to the History of the +Creeds</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Philosophy of Religion in England and +America</span>, 12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The XXXIX Articles of the Church of +England</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>Health Series</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>Fcap</i> 8<i>vo.</i> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d. net</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Baby.</span> <span class="smcap">The Care of the Body.</span> <span class="smcap">The Care of the Teeth.</span> <span class="smcap">The Eyes of our +Children.</span> <span class="smcap">Health for the Middle-Aged.</span> <span class="smcap">The Health of a Woman.</span> <span class="smcap">The Health +of the Skin.</span> <span class="smcap">How to Live Long.</span> <span class="smcap">The Prevention of the Common Cold.</span> <span +class="smcap">Staying the Plague.</span> <span class="smcap">Throat and Ear Troubles.</span> <span class="smcap">Tuberculosis.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Health of the Child</span>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[6]</a></span></p> + +<h3>Leaders of Religion</h3> + +<p class="center">Edited by H. C. BEECHING. <i>With Portraits</i></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Crown 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<h3>The Library of Devotion</h3> + +<p class="center">Handy Editions of the great Devotional Books, well edited.<br /> With +Introductions and (where necessary) Notes.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Small Pott 8vo, cloth</i>, 3<i>s.</i> <i>net and</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net</i></p> + +<h3>Little Books on Art</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>With many Illustrations. Demy 16mo.</i> 5<i>s.</i> <i>net each volume</i></p> + +<p class="center">Each volume consists of about 200 pages, and contains from 30 to 40 +Illustrations, including a Frontispiece in Photogravure</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Albrecht Dürer.</span> <span class="smcap">The Arts of Japan.</span> <span class="smcap">Bookplates.</span> <span class="smcap">Botticelli.</span> <span class="smcap">Burne-Jones.</span> +<span class="smcap">Cellini.</span> <span class="smcap">Christian Symbolism.</span> <span class="smcap">Christ in Art.</span> <span class="smcap">Claude.</span> <span class="smcap">Constable.</span> <span class="smcap">Corot.</span> +<span class="smcap">Early English Water-Colour.</span> <span class="smcap">Enamels.</span> <span class="smcap">Frederic Leighton.</span> <span class="smcap">George Romney.</span> +<span class="smcap">Greek Art.</span> <span class="smcap">Greuze and Boucher.</span> <span class="smcap">Holbein.</span> <span class="smcap">Illuminated Manuscripts.</span> <span +class="smcap">Jewellery.</span> <span class="smcap">John Hoppner.</span> <span class="smcap">Sir Joshua Reynolds.</span> <span class="smcap">Millet.</span> +<span class="smcap">Miniatures.</span> <span class="smcap">Our Lady in Art.</span> <span class="smcap">Raphael.</span> <span class="smcap">Rodin.</span> <span class="smcap">Turner.</span> <span class="smcap">Vandyck.</span> <span class="smcap">Velazquez.</span> +<span class="smcap">Watts.</span></p></blockquote> + +<h3>The Little Guides</h3> + +<p class="center">With many Illustrations by <span class="smcap">E. H. New</span> and other artists, and from +photographs</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Small Pott 8vo.</i> 4<i>s.</i> <i>net</i>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net, and</i> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net</i></p> + +<p>Guides to the English and Welsh Counties, and some well-known districts</p> + +<p>The main features of these Guides are (1) a handy and charming form; (2) +illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists; (3) good plans +and maps; (4) an adequate but compact presentation of everything that is +interesting in the natural features, history, archæology, and +architecture of the town or district treated.</p> + +<h3>The Little Quarto Shakespeare</h3> + +<p class="center">Edited by W. J. CRAIG. With Introductions and Notes</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Pott 16mo. 40 Volumes.</i> <i>Leather, price</i> 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> <i>net each volume</i> +<i>Cloth</i>, 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><b>Plays</b></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Fcap. 8vo.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Milestones.</span> Arnold Bennett and Edward Knoblock. <i>Ninth Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ideal Husband, An.</span> Oscar Wilde. <i>Acting Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Kismet.</span> Edward Knoblock. <i>Fourth Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Typhoon.</span> A Play in Four Acts. Melchior Lengyel. English Version by +Laurence Irving. <i>Second Edition.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ware Case, The.</span> George Pleydell.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">General Post.</span> J. E. Harold Terry. <i>Second Edition.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[7]</a></span></p> + +<h3>Sports Series</h3> + +<p class="center"><i>Illustrated. Fcap. 8vo</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">All About Flying</span>, 3<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Golf Do's and Dont's</span>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Golfing Swing.</span> 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">How to Swim</span>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Lawn Tennis</span>, +3<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Skating</span>, 3<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Cross-Country Ski-ing</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">Wrestling</span>, 2<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Quick Cuts to Good Golf</span>, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">Hockey</span>, 4<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>The Westminster Commentaries</h3> + +<p class="center">General Editor, WALTER LOCK</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Demy 8vo</i></p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Acts of the Apostles</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Amos</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">I. +Corinthians</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Exodus</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Ezekiel</span>, 12<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Genesis</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Hebrews</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Isaiah</span>, +16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Jeremiah</span>, 16<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Job</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Pastoral Epistles</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Philippians</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">St. James</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">St. Matthew</span>, 15<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>Methuen's Two-Shilling Library</h3> + +<p class="center">Cheap Editions of many Popular Books</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Fcap. 8vo</i></p> + +<h2><a name="Part_III_A_Selection_of_Works_of_Fiction" id="Part_III_A_Selection_of_Works_of_Fiction"></a><span class="smcap">Part III.—A Selection of Works of Fiction</span></h2> + +<p><b>Bennett (Arnold)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Clayhanger</span>, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Hilda Lessways</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">These Twain.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Card.</span> <span class="smcap">The Regent</span>: A Five Towns Story of Adventure in London. <span class="smcap">The +Price of Love.</span> <span class="smcap">Buried Alive.</span> <span class="smcap">A Man from the</span> <span class="smcap">North.</span> <span class="smcap">The Matador of the +Five Towns.</span> <span class="smcap">Whom God hath Joined.</span> <span class="smcap">A Great Man</span>: A Frolic. <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Birmingham (George A.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Spanish Gold.</span> <span class="smcap">The Search Party.</span> <span class="smcap">Lalage's Lovers.</span> <span class="smcap">The Bad Times.</span> <span class="smcap">Up, the +Rebels.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Inisheeny</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Burroughs (Edgar Rice)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Tarzan of the Apes</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Return of Tarzan</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">The Beasts of Tarzan</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Son of Tarzan</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span +class="smcap">Jungle Tales of Tarzan</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Tarzan and the Jewels +of Opar</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Tarzan the Untamed</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Princess +of Mars</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Gods of Mars</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Warlord of +Mars</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<blockquote><p><b>Conrad (Joseph).</b> <span class="smcap">A Set of Six</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Victory</span>: An Island +Tale. <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 9<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Secret Agent</span>: A Simple Tale. <i>Cr. +8vo.</i> 9<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Under Western Eyes.</span> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 9<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Chance.</span> +<i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 9<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Corelli (Marie)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">A Romance of Two Worlds</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Vendetta</span>: or, The Story of +One Forgotten, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Thelma</span>: A Norwegian Princess, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Ardath</span>: The Story of a Dead Self, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Soul of +Lilith</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Wormwood</span>: A Drama of Paris, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">Barabbas</span>: A Dream of the World's Tragedy, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Sorrows of +Satan</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Master-Christian</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span +class="smcap">Temporal Power</span>: A Study in Supremacy, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">God's +Good Man</span>: A Simple Love Story, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Holy Orders</span>: The +Tragedy of a Quiet Life, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Mighty Atom</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Boy</span>: A Sketch, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Cameos</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Life +Everlasting</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Love of Long Ago, and Other Stories</span>, +8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Doyle (Sir A. Conan).</b> ROUND THE RED LAMP. <i>Twelfth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Hichens (Robert)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Tongues of Conscience</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Felix</span>: Three Years in a Life, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Woman with the Fan</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Byeways</span>, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Garden of Allah</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Call of +the Blood</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Barbary Sheep</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Dwellers +on the Threshold</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Way of Ambition</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">In the Wilderness</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[8]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Hope (Anthony)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">A Change of Air.</span> <span class="smcap">A Man of Mark.</span> <span class="smcap">The Chronicles of Count Antonio.</span> <span class="smcap">Simon +Dale.</span> <span class="smcap">The King's Mirror.</span> <span class="smcap">Quisanté.</span> <span class="smcap">The Dolly Dialogues.</span> <span class="smcap">Tales of Two +People.</span> <span class="smcap">A Servant of the Public.</span> <span class="smcap">Mrs. Maxon Protests.</span> <span class="smcap">A Young Man's +Year.</span> <span class="smcap">Beaumaroy Home from the Wars.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Jacobs (W. W.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Many Cargoes</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Sea Urchins</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net</i> and 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">A Master of Craft</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Light Freights</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> +<span class="smcap">The Skipper's Wooing</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">At Sunwich Port</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span +class="smcap">Dialstone Lane</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Odd Craft</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The +Lady of the Barge</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Salthaven</span>, 5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Sailors' Knots</span>, +5<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Short Cruises</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>London (Jack).</b> WHITE FANG. <i>Ninth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Lucas (E. V.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Listener's Lure</span>: An Oblique Narration, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Over Bemerton's</span>: An +Easy-going Chronicle, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Mr. Ingleside</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">London +Lavender</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Landmarks</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Vermilion Box</span>, +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Verena in the Midst</span>, 8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>McKenna (Stephen)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Sonia</span>: Between Two Worlds, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Ninety-Six Hours' Leave</span>, 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Sixth Sense</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Midas & Son</span>, 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Malet (Lucas)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The History of Sir Richard Calmady</span>: A Romance. <span class="smcap">The Carissima.</span> <span class="smcap">The +Gateless Barrier.</span> <span class="smcap">Deadham Hard.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Wages of +Sin.</span> 8<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Mason (A. E. W.).</b> CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. <i>Ninth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Maxwell (W. B.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Vivien.</span> <span class="smcap">The Guarded Flame.</span> <span class="smcap">Odd Lengths.</span> <span class="smcap">Hill Rise.</span> <span class="smcap">The Rest Cure.</span> <i>All</i> +7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Oxenham (John)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">A Weaver of Webs.</span> <span class="smcap">Profit and Loss.</span> <span class="smcap">The Song of Hyacinth, and Other +Stories.</span> <span class="smcap">Lauristons.</span> <span class="smcap">The Coil of Carne.</span> <span class="smcap">The Quest of the Golden Rose.</span> +<span class="smcap">Mary All-Alone.</span> <span class="smcap">Broken Shackles.</span> "1914." <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Parker (Gilbert)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Pierre and his People.</span> <span class="smcap">Mrs. Falchion.</span> <span class="smcap">The Translation of a Savage.</span> <span class="smcap">When +Valmond came to Pontiac</span>: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. <span class="smcap">An Adventurer of +the North</span>: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.' <span class="smcap">The Seats of the +Mighty.</span> <span class="smcap">The Battle of the Strong</span>: A Romance of Two Kingdoms. <span class="smcap">The Pomp of +the Lavilettes.</span> <span class="smcap">Northern Lights.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Phillpotts (Eden)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Children of the Mist.</span> <span class="smcap">Sons of the Morning.</span> <span class="smcap">The River.</span> <span class="smcap">The American +Prisoner.</span> <span class="smcap">Demeter's Daughter.</span> <span class="smcap">The Human Boy and the War.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Ridge (W. Pett)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">A Son of the State</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Remington Sentence</span>, 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Madame Prince</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Top Speed</span>, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +<i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Special Performances</span>, 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">The Bustling Hours</span>, 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Rohmer (Sax)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Devil Doctor.</span> <span class="smcap">The Si-Fan Mysteries.</span> <span class="smcap">Tales of Secret Egypt.</span> <span class="smcap">The +Orchard of Tears.</span> <span class="smcap">The Golden Scorpion.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Swinnerton (F.).</b> SHOPS AND HOUSES. <i>Third Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> +6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>SEPTEMBER. <i>Third Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>THE HAPPY FAMILY. <i>Second Edition.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p>ON THE STAIRCASE. <i>Third Edition.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p> + +<p><b>Wells (H. G.).</b> BEALBY. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> <i>Cr. 8vo.</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p><b>Williamson (C. N.</b> and <b>A. M.)</b>—</p> + +<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">The Lightning Conductor</span>: The Strange Adventures of a Motor Car. <span class="smcap">Lady +Betty across the Water.</span> <span class="smcap">Scarlet Runner.</span> <span class="smcap">Lord Loveland discovers America.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Guests of Hercules.</span> <span class="smcap">It Happened in Egypt.</span> <span class="smcap">A Soldier of the Legion.</span> +<span class="smcap">The Shop Girl.</span> <span class="smcap">The Lightning Conductress.</span> <span class="smcap">Secret History.</span> <span class="smcap">The Love +Pirate.</span> <i>All</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <i>net.</i> <span class="smcap">Crucifix Corner.</span> 6<i>s.</i> <i>net.</i></p></blockquote> + +<h3>Methuen's Two-Shilling Novels</h3> + +<p class="center">Cheap Editions of many of the most Popular Novels of the day</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Write for Complete List</i></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Fcap. 8vo.</i></p> + +<hr class="full" /> +<div class="transnote"> +Transcriber's notes: + +<p>Fixed up various commas and full-stops.<br /> +Hyphens are determined by the majority with or without:--</p> + +<p>Taken hyphen out in 'countryside'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'blue-jackets'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'foreshore'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'flagship'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'out-turn'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'pressmen'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'bare-headed'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'foot-plate'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'hard-wood'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'home-like'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'inshore'.<br /> +Put hyphen in 'Red-legs'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'pineapples'.<br /> +Taken hyphen out in 'roadside'.<br /> +P.43, 44, 214 & index, 'Khava' should be 'Kava', changed.<br /> +P.43. 'Yagona' should be 'Yaqona', changed.<br /> +P.50. 'bougainvillias' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed.<br /> +P.55. 'Hinomaa' should be 'Hinemoa', changed in text and index.<br /> +P.56. 't seems' should be 'it', changed.<br /> +P.75. 'Wanganoa' should be 'Wangamoa'. changed.<br /> +P.87. 'Reformerst' should be 'Reformers', changed.<br /> +P.135 & index. 'Paramatta' should be 'Parramatta', changed.<br /> +P.198. 'billee' tea should be 'billy' tea, changed.<br /> +P.202. 'gulahs' should be 'galahs', but also known as 'gallahs' changed.<br /> +P.206 & index. 'Canoblas' should be 'Canobolas', and the index should + be 'p.206.' changed.<br /> +P.206. 'Dubho' should be 'Dubbo', changed.<br /> +P.224. Taken out dash from 'sugar-'.<br /> +P.237 & P.239. 'bougainvilliers' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed.<br /> +P.244. 'Graymouth' should be 'Greymouth', changed.<br /> +P.250, index. 'Dubho' in index should be 'Dubbo', changed.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + +***** This file should be named 38691-h.htm or 38691-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/6/9/38691/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/38691-h/images/cover.jpg b/38691-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..13e67b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/38691-h/images/frontisea.png b/38691-h/images/frontisea.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2298a4f --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/frontisea.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo016a.png b/38691-h/images/illo016a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e4fc1f --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo016a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo016b.png b/38691-h/images/illo016b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..abdf418 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo016b.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo018.png b/38691-h/images/illo018.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d05bf54 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo018.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo018a.png b/38691-h/images/illo018a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..253cf3f --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo018a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo064.png b/38691-h/images/illo064.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..428fd44 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo064.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo064a.png b/38691-h/images/illo064a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee8a512 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo064a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo080.png b/38691-h/images/illo080.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd5ed4e --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo080.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo080a.png b/38691-h/images/illo080a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e988004 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo080a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo112.png b/38691-h/images/illo112.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..54ddfef --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo112.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo112a.png b/38691-h/images/illo112a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccd8475 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo112a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo128.png b/38691-h/images/illo128.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea0cb2b --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo128.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo128a.png b/38691-h/images/illo128a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7f59dc --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo128a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo160.png b/38691-h/images/illo160.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc0ad24 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo160.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo160a.png b/38691-h/images/illo160a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..026df35 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo160a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo170a.png b/38691-h/images/illo170a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7bb01a --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo170a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo170b.png b/38691-h/images/illo170b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc4145e --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo170b.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo192a.png b/38691-h/images/illo192a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0c527c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo192a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo192b.png b/38691-h/images/illo192b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ced3442 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo192b.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo208.png b/38691-h/images/illo208.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a047f94 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo208.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo208a.png b/38691-h/images/illo208a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..05da6a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo208a.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo224.png b/38691-h/images/illo224.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..628decc --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo224.png diff --git a/38691-h/images/illo224a.png b/38691-h/images/illo224a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1d5012 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691-h/images/illo224a.png diff --git a/38691.txt b/38691.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..42f05d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/38691.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8767 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Down Under With the Prince + +Author: Everard Cotes + +Release Date: January 27, 2012 [EBook #38691] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +-----------------------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original | + | document has been adjusted. | + | | + | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. For | + | a complete list, please see the end of this file. | + | | + +-----------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + + DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE + + + + + BY THE SAME AUTHOR + + SIGNS AND PORTENTS IN THE FAR EAST + +[Illustration: H.R.H. ON DECK: AN INTERRUPTION] + + + + + DOWN UNDER WITH + THE PRINCE + + BY + EVERARD COTES + + WITH TWENTY-THREE ILLUSTRATIONS + + METHUEN & CO. LTD. + 36 ESSEX STREET, W.C. + LONDON + + + + + _First Published in 1921_ + + + + +This book attempts to be a gangway to the _Renown_ for the reader who +would travel by battle-cruiser, by train, on horseback, by motor, and on +foot, the forty-five thousand miles of his Australasian tour with H.R.H. +the Prince of Wales. It is built by one who travelled, as a +correspondent, with him all the way. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + I AT SEA 1 + + II BARBADOS 9 + + III PANAMA 15 + + IV SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 22 + + V HONOLULU 27 + + VI NEPTUNE BOARDS THE _RENOWN_ 35 + + VII FIJI 41 + + VIII AUCKLAND 47 + + IX NORTH ISLAND 59 + + X SOUTH ISLAND 73 + + XI ENTERPRISE IN NEW ZEALAND 87 + + XII VICTORIA 100 + + XIII NEW SOUTH WALES 116 + + XIV SOME COMMONWEALTH AFFAIRS 130 + + XV WESTERN AUSTRALIA 140 + + XVI WHEAT, GOLD, AND LOGGING 148 + + XVII THE NULLARBOR PLAIN 158 + + XVIII SOUTH AUSTRALIA 163 + + XIX TASMANIA 170 + + XX QUEENSLAND 176 + + XXI THE JACKAROO AND OTHERS 192 + + XXII AMONGST THE SHEEP 200 + + XXIII EASTWARD HO 211 + + XXIV THE WEST INDIES 221 + + XXV THE BERMUDAS 236 + + XXVI THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TOUR 242 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + H.R.H. ON DECK: AN INTERRUPTION _Frontispiece_ + + FACING PAGE + + PANAMA CANAL: A SHARP CORNER 16 + + SURF-BOARDING AT HONOLULU 16 + + EXCITEMENT GROWS IN AUCKLAND HARBOUR 18 + + NEW ZEALAND: THE PRIME MINISTER TAKES CHARGE 18 + _From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin_ + + WELLINGTON: A CANOE IN THE PETONE PAGEANT 64 + _From a Photograph by Guy, Dunedin_ + + "THE MAORI PEOPLE WILL BE TRUE TILL DEATH" 64 + + WESTPORT CHILDREN: A TUMULT OF FLAGS AND FLOWERS 80 + + DUNEDIN'S WELCOME 80 + _From Photographs by Guy, Dunedin_ + + WITH AUSTRALIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED CITIZEN 112 + _From a Photograph by the Central News Agency, Ltd._ + + JUTLAND DAY AT MELBOURNE 112 + + GOVERNMENT HOUSE GARDENS, NEW SOUTH WALES 128 + + PERTH, FROM THE KING'S PARK 128 + + CROSSING THE NULLARBOR PLAIN 160 + + ABORIGINAL DANCE 160 + + LEAVING PORT ADELAIDE 170 + + MOUNT WELLINGTON, HOBART 170 + + THE BACKBLOCKS: AN UNOFFICIAL FIXTURE 192 + + HIS FAVOURITE MOUNT 192 + + EMU ON A SHEEP-RUN 208 + + GOOD-BYE TO SYDNEY HARBOUR 208 + + SAMOA MAKES MERRY 224 + + TRINIDAD: IN THE DRAGON'S MOUTH 224 + +The thanks of the writer are due to those who have contributed +photographs for the illustrations, and especially to Sir Godfrey Thomas, +Bart. + + + + +DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE + + + + +I + +AT SEA + + +One March morning of last year, an ordinary train moved out of Waterloo +Station for Portsmouth, and among the ordinary people it carried were at +least two or three who were going further. They sat together and smoked, +and exchanged experiences and speculations. As the train slowed down at +Portsmouth Harbour they looked from the carriage windows and saw the +fighting tops of a big battle-cruiser lifted grey against the sky above +the houses of the foreshore, and one said to another "There she is." + +There she was, the _Renown_, in alongside, waiting to sail with His +Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to Australasia. It was the day before +and already the function was in the quickened air. Scraps of coloured +bunting fluttered and flew on the wharf sheds. Dockyard officials gave +orders with more responsibility than ever immediately under their caps. +The travellers from Waterloo went up the gangway to the quarter-deck, +successfully passed the officer of the watch, and found their quarters. +They were the journalists of the tour, there on behalf of the people at +home, that multitudinous "public" which, for lack of accommodation on +the _Renown_, must see the Prince's tour in the convex mirror of the +daily press. + +Next day the function flowered. The Royal train rolled in. The red +carpet was spread and the Chief Passenger went up the gangway, with +every sign and circumstance by which his country could mark the occasion +of his going. + +Gently the grey turrets slid out from the crowded wharf into the leaden +expanse of harbour. "Auld Lang Syne" rang into the chill wind that +rocked the rowing-boats lining the fairway. Ant-like figures swarmed +into the tall rigging of Nelson's flagship, which lay, bedecked all +over, her old oak sides stiff in checkered squares of black and white, +while her ancient muzzle-loaders banged off a smoky salvo--the senior +ship of the British Navy wishing Godspeed to her fighting junior on +Royal Service starting. The hundred and twenty thousand horse-power +steam turbines of the battle-cruiser quickened their rhythmic throb. The +still shouting crowds ashore faded to dark stains on the Southsea beach. +The red and gold of the Royal standard fluttered down from the main, and +the _Renown_ put out to sea, starting on this pleasant commission with +the same certitude and the same cheeriness, the same discipline and the +same lightness of heart, the same directness of purpose, and above all +things the same absence of fuss, with which she had often gone upon +errands perilous. The voyage, so much anticipated and chronicled, had +begun, and the convincing thing was that it was going to be, from the +_Renown's_ point of view, precisely like other voyages. That impression +came with the first turn of the propeller and remained, it may be said +at once, until the last. The circumstance and ceremonial of the +departure, the pomp of Royalty and the glitter of an Imperial mission +had all merged, before the sun set in the cloud-bank of that March +afternoon, in the sense of function and routine, detached and +disregarding, that controls life in His Majesty's ships at sea. + +The _Renown_ is the most recent, the fastest, and the best armed +battle-cruiser in the world. She received at her christening the proud +traditions, extending over three hundred years, of the battles of the +British Navy, having had no less than seven fighting predecessors of the +same name, beginning with the gallant little wooden frigate _Renommee_, +captured in 1653 from the French and transferred to the British +squadrons where she became the first of the famous _Renowns_. The +present vessel was built as lately as 1916, when British need was great. +She remains a record of what those strenuous times could do. + +For all her thirty-two thousand tons and gigantic armament of mammoth +guns this great battle-cruiser slides through the water with the +smoothness of the otter. She moved steadily at eighteen knots an hour +from the time she left Portsmouth, a pace which, for this last word in +fighting machines, is mere half-speed, though it is as fast as most +suburban trains can travel. She is so big that surprisingly little +motion is noticeable at sea, though waves wash freely over forecastle +and quarter-deck, contracting the space available for the exercise and +training of the large fighting crew she carries. This intimacy with the +ocean is an impression acquired early and vividly by the civilian on +board a fighting ship. A voyage on a big liner is a quite super-marine +experience by comparison, with a picturesque and phosphorescent basis +some distance below a sleepy deck-chair, and not necessarily observed at +all. A battleship penetrates rather than sails the sea, and takes very +little interest in keeping any part of herself dry. It is impossible to +ignore the ocean on such a vessel. The _Renown_ was no less amphibian +than others of her class. The accommodation contrived for the Prince was +itself liable to ruthless visitation, and even the cabin on the +superstructure, which held the chroniclers of his Odyssey, and was the +highest inhabited spot beneath the bridge, occasionally took +considerably more than enough water to dilute the ink. + +Naturally there was nothing in her mission to interfere with the +_Renown's_ ordinary routine at sea. Training, gun-drill and inspections +went on as usual and it was impossible not to be penetrated with the +fact that these things were admirably done. For the passengers the day +began with breakfast in the ward-room at eight. Soon after nine the +whole ship's company assembled in divisions, in different parts of the +vessel. Kits were inspected and the day's duty commenced. One realized, +as one watched the proceedings, how completely the war has abolished the +old navy methods of stiffness and pipeclay. The relations between +officers and men are of the pleasantest and most human character. Nobody +is asked to do anything not of definite importance to the welfare of the +ship, or to the training and the making fit of the men. The navigation, +the keeping of the watches, the working of the complicated machinery by +which the vessel is driven, steered and lighted, the handling of the +gigantic guns, and the running of such supplementary services as those +of supply and wireless, proceed upon simple matter-of-fact business +principles, under the direction of the Captain, who controls the +organization as a whole. Immediately under the Captain are the +Navigation Commander, the Administration Commander, the Engineer +Commander, the Gunnery Lieutenant-Commander, the Torpedo +Lieutenant-Commander, the Principal Medical Officer, and the Paymaster, +each an expert in the particular branch he is responsible for. +Unquestionably an expert too is the ship's parson who, himself belonging +to the upper deck, is related, by his duties, so closely to the lower, +as to afford a personal link between the two, which no less sympathetic +or more official intermediary could supply. Each of the departments I +have named is manned by its own staff of officers and men, who are all +trained to carry out definite functions with cheerfulness, confidence +and goodwill. On the _Renown_ the same healthy spirit was to be found in +every one aboard, from the Flag-Lieutenant down to the humblest stoker. +It is an early inoculation of Osborne and Exmouth and apparently expands +in the system with promotion. + +At general divisions on Sundays, the entire ship's company assembled for +inspection on the decks, each officer at the head of his respective +contingent. A finer sight than these divisions it would be impossible to +find, the men well-set-up, and bearing decorations won in every naval +engagement during the war, from Zeebrugge to the Falkland Islands, and +from the Dardanelles to Jutland, wearing too in many cases the red +triple stripe upon the sleeve which tells of fifteen years of good +service under the White Ensign. + +A battle-cruiser has many aspects. It is a fortress with parade grounds +and cricket pitches, a monastery with divagations in port, a school of +many things besides arithmetic, and a community that could teach social +law to Mr. Hyndman. It is above all from this point of view the home, +the castle and the club of the officers and men who inhabit it, and the +centre of these significances is the ward-room. The _Renown's_ had an +ante-room which enshrined the files, not greatly disturbed, of a few +newspapers, and was a most comfortable smoking-room, but it was about +the tables and chairs, the Mess President's mallet and the unwearied +piano of the ward-room itself that the hoariest traditions of His +Majesty's Navy most conspicuously flourished and the atmospheric essence +of the Senior Service most happily clung. + +There is a variety of the game of Patience played with cards called +"Knock." It was plainly invented, in a moment of drowsy leave, by a +sub-lieutenant to whom had arrived the felicity of ordering, by a stroke +upon the table, Commander X or Lieutenant-Commander Y to "pass the wine" +in penalty for having read an urgent signal from the bridge and omitted +to excuse himself to him, the said Sub-Lieutenant, and Mess President +for the week, though youngest officer present. Various were the offences +thus visited across the field of the repast, which had a goal at each +end, kept, so to speak, by the Chaplain, with his grace before and after +meat. In that consecrated interval no lady's name may be pronounced, and +nothing of any sort may be perused. The Spell with which the ward-room +guards its daily history at once paralyses the pen. There is really no +way of learning much about these things except by entering the Navy or +persuading a battle-cruiser to give you a berth in her, opportunities +which occur but seldom to any of us. The relaxations of that genial and +athletic place form a tempting theme, but it is better for the +publishers that a modest number of these volumes should reach the +libraries than that a whole edition should be sunk at sea. + +All this announced and admitted however, this was the voyage to +Australasia of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and the _Renown_, at least in +the public eye, must be subordinated to her duty. + +The Prince was to be met quite often, going about the ship, like anybody +else, with always an unaffected word and pleasant smile for those he ran +up against. He did a good deal of reading and other work in his +state-room in the morning, but in the afternoon he often shared in the +recreations of the officers, playing squash racquets in a small court +that had been rigged up upon the superstructure, shooting at clay discs +thrown out from the ship's side by means of a spring trap, or running +and doing Swedish exercises on the poop. H.R.H. ordinarily messed with +the Captain and the members of the Royal Staff, in the cuddy, which had +been enlarged and pleasantly decorated in ivory and green for the +purpose; but he was also an honorary member of the ward-room and +gun-room messes and sometimes dined with one or other of them. On other +nights he often had officers or passengers to dine with himself and his +staff, in the simplest and most informal way, his guests coming away +with the pleasantest impressions of unpretentious good fellowship and +cheery company. On these occasions the Prince himself proposed the +health of the King, and about this ceremony, simply and modestly as it +was observed, hung an odd little Imperial thrill. Republics are worthy +forms of Government, but they impose upon no man the duty of toasting +his own father. It was a gesture that somehow placed the youthful host +momentarily apart--one imagines his having to reconquer the effect of it +as often as he makes it. + +The Prince is keen upon naval affairs and soon knew the ship from one +end to the other. He often accompanied the Captain on inspections and +took a hand in all sorts of duties, down to those of the oil furnaces. +He sampled the men's food, tasted their grog and would often have a +cheery chat with them. There was no attempt to sequester the Chief +Passenger. He shared and contributed to the life of the ship. + + + + +II + +BARBADOS + + +Gloom was cast over the _Renown_, the day before reaching Barbados, by +the falling overboard, in rough weather, of a fine young gunner of +marines, who was sitting on the taffrail gaily talking to his mates when +a roll came that sent him into the sea. The poor fellow had hardly +stopped falling when patent life-buoys, which sent out white clouds of +smoke, easily visible in the bright afternoon sunshine, were dropped. +The big ship swung round. The man was swimming, when lost to view +amongst white-topped waves. A boat was smartly lowered, and within +fifteen minutes of the cry "Man overboard," the rowers had reached the +buoys and were carefully searching the precise spot where the speck +which had been one of our company had disappeared. The Prince was much +concerned at the accident, and came upon deck the moment he heard of it. +But our hearts grew heavy as the minutes went by and the search proved +vain. It had eventually to be recognized that the unfortunate man had +sunk before reaching the life-buoys, close as they had been dropped to +him in the water. A funeral service was afterwards held on the +forecastle, the entire ship's company and all the officers attending to +pay respect to the memory of their shipmate. The Prince also sent a +personal message by wireless to the relations of the deceased. It was +one of those accidents that no amount of care can entirely prevent, upon +the necessarily low, and but slightly fenced decks of a modern +battle-cruiser in a heavy sea. + +The following evening the _Renown_ arrived off Barbados. The +light-cruiser _Calcutta_, flagship of the West Indian squadron, met her +at sea and escorted her in to the anchorage half a mile from shore. A +dozen sailing barques, mostly American, also three or four steamers of +various nationalities, were lying at anchor, all of them decked with +bunting in honour of the Royal visit. The usual salutes were fired and +formal exchange of calls between the Prince and Sir Charles O'Brien, +Governor of the island, and Admiral Everett, commanding the West Indian +station, took place. + +It was the first pause for the purpose of the tour, the first official +touch. The feeling of function, of standing at attention, which was soon +to clothe the enterprise as with a garment, fell upon all concerned. The +silk hat for the first time bobbed in the visiting steam-launch, and the +address came out of the breast pocket of the municipal morning coat. + +Bridgetown, the capital of Barbados, as seen from the _Renown_ through +the soft warm muggy atmosphere of the end of March, was a tumbled mass +of white and red buildings embowered in emerald foliage, and fringed by +the masts of anchored sailing vessels, themselves reflected in the +broken amethyst of the open roadstead. The narrow streets had been +decorated by the wives and daughters of the residents, headed by Lady +Carter, wife of a late governor of the island, who had expended an +immense amount of labour upon the work. Gigantic sago-palm leaves had +grown into royal emblems wherein the fronds took the place of feathers. +The Broad Street of the city might have been a Cantonese bazaar, so +thick was it with coloured banners. Nelson's statue, in the local +Trafalgar Square, looked out of a mass of brilliant floral designs. An +imposing triumphal arch of flowers had also been erected. Even the tiny +wooden huts of the negroes, on the outskirts, carried paper decorations +that must have cost much labour to make. A well-set-up company of +volunteers furnished a guard-of-honour at the landing. The members of +the Barbados House of Assembly, headed by the Governor in white +political uniform, received the Prince. Bands and salutes added to the +formality of the occasion. Complimentary addresses were presented in the +old Assembly House, where the Prince shook hands with a remarkably long +line of returned military and naval officers and men, for Barbados sent +an extraordinary large proportion of her sons to the war. + +A fleet of motor-cars then turned up and the Prince was taken for a +drive through the island. The procession was headed by that veteran +planter and member of Assembly, Mr. Graham Yearwood, who seemed to have +at his finger-ends every local romance of the past three hundred years, +from the story of the "Rendezvous" on the coast, where loyalist planters +repelled the onslaught of Cromwellian squadrons, to that of a certain +cavernous gully which we also saw, where, for long months, was hidden +the body of a swashbuckling moss-trooper slain in single combat by a +Barbadian planter. The Prince was also conducted over the buzzing +machinery of an immense, up-to-date sugar-factory, fitted with the +latest appliances, and learnt something of the vicissitudes of the sugar +industry, an enterprise which was doggedly operated through years of low +prices, bad crops, and hurricanes, and only narrowly saved from complete +bankruptcy by a grant obtained from the British Parliament by Mr. Joseph +Chamberlain. At the time of the Royal visit, it was in a state of +abounding prosperity with prices at twelve times their pre-war level. +Even with the year's by no means favourable season the current crop was +valued at eight times the average of five years previously, which meant +ease and comfort to all connected with this premier industry of the +island. + +The whole of the city portion of the route was lined--in places ten +deep--with cheering, laughing, bowing coloured people and their women +and piccaninnies; the folk of the cane fields and factories. In the +country portion of the route, negroes rushed to the roadside from their +work in the fields the moment the Royal car appeared in sight. "God +bless you!" they cried to the Prince. "Come! Come! Lookee here, he too +sweet boy!" "God bless my old eyes that have seen him," mingled with +laughter and the clapping of hands, while old men bowed low, with +dignified, wide-armed, slow gesticulation, and women and girls, +sometimes smartly got-up with head-kerchiefs made of Union Jacks, and +always with strong, free hip-gait, and the widest of white-toothed +smiles, came running to drop a curtsy or bend in salute. It was real +contagious joy and excitement, like the overflowing froth of a bottle of +Guinness, and as for the noise only a Jazz Band could describe it. + +The road was sometimes crowded with four-wheeled mule-drawn carts, +piled high with fresh-cut, yellow sugar-cane, on its way to the presses, +each stem the thickness of a rolling-pin and the length of a +cavalryman's lance, for the harvesting was in full swing. The negroes +take the crop, which looks much like sorghum or Indian corn, with +cutlasses, primitive work done by primitive people. The luscious growth +needs a good deal of fertilizing and care the year round, and +generations of these simple folk have thriven upon it since the middle +of the seventeenth century. Seventy-four thousand acres of it there are +and probably a hundred thousand negroes producing it, all, so far as we +could observe, delighted to see the Prince of Wales. + +The road wound sometimes through pillared aisles of stately sago-palms, +past dense groves of green mahogany and bread-fruit trees or brilliantly +red flowering devil-trees, hibiscus, and silk-cotton. Sometimes one saw +brown heaps of sweet potatoes, as large as turnips, just dug from the +earth. The procession climbed through open fields of uncut sugar-cane +and sorghum, getting a fine view of rolling cultivation, bordered with +blue sea and white surf-swept beach. Ancient windmills swung black, +droning sails on the hill-tops. Tall brick chimneys told of +long-established crushing mills close to the cane fields. Cheerful +villages of flimsy wooden shacks and solid stone houses followed one +another in quick succession, each with its inhabitants lined up in +holiday clothes to cheer. Again and again the Prince alighted to inspect +boy-scouts, girl-guides, and war-workers, or to say a pleasant word to +assemblies of school-children. One gathering proved a community of +"Red-legs," descendants, now of mixed race, of Scotch and Irish prisoners +of war and "unruly men" exiled and sold for seven years as white +servants to the colony in 1653. It was easy to pick out in the +white-clad crowd individuals with negro features and pale Celtic skins. + +Later in the day, the Prince attended a formal state dinner, and evoked +a storm of applause by contradicting emphatically a rumour, which had +been causing a good deal of anxiety in the island, to the effect that +there was a possibility of some of the West Indies being disposed of to +America. "I need hardly say," said His Royal Highness, downrightly, +"that the King's subjects are not for sale to other governments. Their +destiny, as free men, is in their own hands. Your future is for you +yourselves to shape, and I am sure Barbados will never waver in its +loyalty, three centuries old, to the British Crown." + +It would thus appear that Cromwell's experiment is not likely to be +developed by the present government. The assurance was noteworthy as the +first of the pleasant and telling things the Prince had to say during +his progress, opportunities which he never missed and which, in the +aggregate, enhanced so greatly the success of his mission. + + + + +III + +PANAMA + + +At dawn, in hot, soft, hazy weather, the _Renown_, followed by the +_Calcutta_, left the blue, transparent waters of the Caribbean Sea and +entered the green, muddy channel, fringed with dense, verdant forest, +which is the beginning of the Panama Canal. Three aeroplanes, each +bearing the stripes of the American Air Service, droned overhead in +noisy welcome. Resonant concussions and white, fleecy puffs of smoke +amidst low wharves and jetties where Colon lay in the forest, spread a +Royal salute upon the vibrating air. Music arose upon the _Renown_, +while staff-officers arrayed themselves in gold-lace and helmets, ready +to receive the Prince's guests. Launches arrived at the ship bringing +the British Minister to Panama, Mr. Percy Bennett, accompanied by +Captain Blake and Major-General Bethell, respectively naval and military +attaches at the British Embassy at Washington. An hour's quiet steaming, +thereafter, brought us to the giant Gatun locks, which stand in three +black tiers of steel, the gates rising, one above another, in a massive +setting of grey, rounded concrete, a severing gash in the high, green +hill which is the Gatun dam. Here, Senor Lefevre, President of the +Panama Republic, Admiral Johnston and Colonel Kennedy, commanding the +American naval and military forces in the Panama Zone, also Engineer +Colonel Harding, Governor of the Canal, and Monsieur Simonin, French +Charge d'Affairs, came on board. + +The formality attending these official arrivals, so often to be repeated +throughout the tour, was practically always the same. The visitor who +came up the gangway from the dock or the launch, as the case might be, +saluted the quarter-deck--a survival this from the days when it bore a +crucifix--and was saluted in turn by the Officer of the Watch, who, with +his telescope tucked under his arm, conveyed the stranger past the row +of marines drawn up at attention to the Captain and the Equerry in +waiting, who brought him up the starboard companion to the mezzanine +deck. Here he would be received by the Prince attended by his Staff. The +visit seldom exceeded twenty minutes. When H.R.H. left the ship for the +shore the Captain awaited him on the quarter-deck and conducted him past +the marines presenting arms to the gangway. On these occasions the +junior members of the party were the first to step off, finishing with +the Admiral and last of all the Prince, both Admiral and Prince being +"piped over the side" to the shrill music of the bos'n's whistle. There +was as little variation about the arrival on shore. Always the +guard-of-honour, the band, the stunting aeroplanes, always six bars of +"God Save the King" and the pause at attention, always the hand-shaking +with the officer commanding the guard-of-honour, the inspection, and so +to the business and pleasure of the visit. + +[Illustration: PANAMA CANAL: A SHARP CORNER] + +[Illustration: SURF-BOARDING AT HONOLULU] + +On this occasion the guard of American soldiers in white uniforms and +the familiar wide-brimmed hats was drawn up upon the lawn beside the +topmost lock. Thence, past some thousands of prosperous-looking +employees of the Canal, and their families, who had turned out to see +the reception, the Prince was taken to the Control House, whence the +whole of the operations of the locks are regulated, from the +manipulating of the little, black, towing mule-engines, which ran +busily, like scarabaeid beetles, up and down rails set in concrete +slopes on the top of the lock walls, to the opening and closing of the +seventy-foot high gates, and the letting in and letting out of the green +sluggish water. + +From the veranda of the Control House we got our first striking +impression of the dramatic achievement of the Canal. We were on the +level of the wide island dotted expanse of the Gatun lake. The +enormous _Renown_ and the tiny _Calcutta_ lay, side by side, in +thousand-feet-long pools, at our feet, in a turmoil of waves of rushing +water, out of which, from time to time, some frightened fish would leap, +a silver gleam that disappeared before one had made out its shape or +kind. The great design was in action before our eyes. The locks opened +and closed with extraordinary speed and almost noiseless efficiency, and +by the time the Prince had returned from inspecting the monster spillway +and power-house, to which he was carried in a tiny train that was in +readiness alongside the locks when we arrived, the _Calcutta_ was +already entering the lake, while the _Renown_ had surmounted the locks +and was only waiting to take on the Royal party before following in her +wake. + +The route thereafter lay at first through the green water of the lake, +past islands covered with densest jungle. About the middle of the lake, +we passed masses of bare tree-trunks, standing erect in the water, on +either side of the broad track that is kept clear for the passage of +ships. These trees are what remain of a forest that covered the bottom +of the valley before the building of the dam which converted it into a +lake. The trunks, though standing in some seven fathoms of water, still +keep their branches and project many feet above the surface; and have to +be avoided by passing ships. This dismal avenue has kept its place for +ten years. It must have been green once. Like a forest after a great +burning it stands in skeleton and carries no leaf now, a curious +reminder that water can be as pitiless as fire. + +In the afternoon we entered the Culebra cut. Here man has been at grips +with nature in her least amiable mood. The channel becomes a winding +gorge through steep, rugged crags and rounded hills. The stupendous +cutting shows treacherous alternating layers of red gravel, yellow sand, +brown crumpled rock, and soft, slippery blue clay. A number of mammoth +floating steam dredgers were here at work, a fresh slip having occurred +a few days previously. Progress, therefore, had to be of the slowest. A +climax was reached near the end of the cutting, where, at a sharp curve +in the channel, a whole hillside, half a mile each way, had commenced to +move, the debris extending right into the canal, which was also impeded +by a small island, apparently squeezed up from the bottom by the +terrific pressure of the slipping hill. The place looked almost +impossible, the great length of the _Renown_ making the manoeuvring of +her in what remained of the channel one of the trickiest pieces of +navigation imaginable. Naval officers are not easily put off, however, +and by the most delicate handling, the vessel ultimately crawled past +the obstruction. The cheerful little red-roofed township of Pedro Miguel +was reached soon afterwards. Here the entire population had turned out +to see the Prince, the girls in brilliant costumes, amongst which one +might sometimes see the black mantilla of Spain; the men in anything, +from working overalls and slouch hats, to the leisured fashions of New +York. At Pedro Miguel began the slow process of descending to the level +of the Pacific. The first lock dropped us some thirty feet into the +picturesque lake of Miraflores, surrounded by rounded grass-grown hills, +emerald in the setting sun. Two more locks followed at the end of the +lake, and we entered a stretch of water at ocean level, which took us to +the docks at Balboa, upon the Pacific, close to the city of Panama. + +[Illustration: EXCITEMENT GROWS IN AUCKLAND HARBOUR] + +[Illustration: NEW ZEALAND: THE PRIME MINISTER TAKES CHARGE] + +At Panama the Prince had the most friendly and hospitable reception, +banquets and balls succeeding one another on shore, while on the +_Renown_ several ceremonies took place, including the receiving and +replying to addresses from British, West Indian and East Indian +residents. Some of the local cordiality was quaintly worded. + +"In frantic supplication we fling ourselves at the feet of Almighty God +to shower His blessings upon Your Highness." More, it may be imagined, +could not be done. "If we be allowed another paragraph may we then be +permitted, in this final gasp, to express our desire that Your Royal +Highness will greatly enjoy your short visit to this port." It is +understood that the desire of the permitted paragraph and the final gasp +was not denied. + +Another picturesque ceremony was when the Prince drove in procession to +pay a formal visit to the President of Panama. The motor-cars first +traversed the wide American zone of the Canal region, speeding over +smooth, asphalt roads, past well-built verandahed houses, with white +walls and dark-coloured jutting roofs, the windows and doors meshed with +fine wire-gauze, an arrangement which gives them the appearance of +prosperous meat-safes. These houses are part of the wonderful sanitary +arrangements which have turned Panama, from being a yellow-fever camp, +into one of the most healthy regions in the world. They are inhabited by +the engineering, traffic and administrative staffs, and the police and +military establishments of the Canal zone. They stand in spacious +gardens with beautifully-kept lawns and flower-borders, and are supplied +with up-to-date electric-light and fans, good drinking-water, and +perfect installations of sewers. There are also carefully thought out +clubs and institutes, which supply the Canal employees with +entertainment for their spare hours, alcoholic liquor alone excepted, +for the zone is strictly "dry." + +Smart American sentries saluted at the barbed wire boundary, whence the +route wound past conical hills which may well have been the range that +gave to Drake the first white man's view of the Pacific Ocean. +Thereafter the procession plunged into the narrow streets of Panama +city, which were lined with cheering, laughing crowds of gaily dressed +negroes, Mexicans and Spaniards. Bunting fluttered from every window in +the high tiered houses. An escort of picturesque mounted police, with +rough peaked saddles and undocked horses, closed in on either side. +Immense, decorated barouches, drawn by fine pairs of Mexican horses, +were substituted for the Canal zone motor-cars, and the procession +moved on in state, the Prince alighting, _en route_, to inspect a fine +body of about a hundred returned soldiers of the West Indian Regiment +who had assembled in his honour. + +The President and his entire council, in black frock-coats and shining +top-hats, welcomed the party upon the steps of the Presidential House, a +pleasant residence, with garden quadrangle, overlooking the sunny +harbour. The Prince was conducted upstairs to a large reception-room, +hung with yellowing paintings of previous Presidents, where compliments +were exchanged and refreshments offered. Later in the day an official +dinner was given, at which the President proposed the Royal health in +flowing Spanish, mentioning the large number of residents, in the chief +cities of Panama, who are British subjects from the West Indian islands, +and emphasizing the gratitude felt by all Panamanians towards Great +Britain for having taken up the cause of the smaller nations in the +World War. The reference filled several eyes in the company with +conscious rectitude, and they were not all British. + + + + +IV + +SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA + + +In passing the Culebra Cut landslide, in the Panama Canal, one of the +propellers of the _Renown_ touched a submerged rock which had escaped +the notice of the surveyors. When Balboa harbour was reached the ship's +divers went down to see what the damage amounted to; and as poking about +the cruiser's bottom, thirty-three feet below the surface, in muddy +water infested with sharks, is, to say the least, an unpleasant task, it +was characteristic of the ship that one of the first to don diving-dress +and go over the side was the Engineer-Commander himself. The result was +to ascertain that one of the blades of one of the propellers had had a +small piece broken off, but that the damage was so slight that it would +not be necessary to dock the vessel for repair. + +A start was therefore made for San Diego, our next port of call. The +course skirted the mountainous coast of Mexico, which showed mistily on +the starboard horizon. The water was of the smoothest and clearest, and +of tint so blue as to be almost azure. The temperature was tropical, and +we found surprising abundance of sea-life. Yellow turtles, as big as +footballs, with their little pointed heads stuck out to watch us, +floated by in scores. Schools of glistening porpoises leapt in the sun +besides a couple of big, slow-moving, log-like blackfish. You can travel +from London to Bombay and see hardly a creature, but here the sea +teemed. Birds too were plentiful--quantities of duck, white, wheeling +gulls, and black, slender, frigate-birds that sailed past like kites. + +A few days later, in an amethyst sea, off the green slopes of Loma +point, the _Renown_ cast anchor. The houses and towers of San Diego, +seven miles off, across the Harbour of the Sun, glistened pearl-like in +soft morning light, above the golden setting of the Coronada sand. Out +at sea, at dawn that day, six grey, business-like American destroyers +had met the _Renown_ and escorted her in, a score of United States +flying-boats and aeroplanes hovering in well-kept formations overhead. +At the mouth of the harbour was lying that fine battleship the _New +Mexico_, flagship of the United States Pacific Squadron, which fired a +welcoming salute. After the anchor was down, Admiral Williams, acting +Naval Commander-in-Chief in the Pacific, who flew his flag on the _New +Mexico_, visited the Prince. Mayor Wild, of San Diego, and other local +residents also arrived from the shore to pay their respects. + +The morning was taken up with the receiving and returning of these +visits. In the afternoon the Prince landed at the municipal pier in the +heart of the city. Here he found Governor Stephens, of California, at +the head of a large deputation, waiting to welcome him. Every avenue to +the wharf was blocked with motor-cars. Well-dressed crowds pressed upon +the ropes that fenced in a central space reserved for British veterans, +to whom had been given the place of particular honour in the town's +reception of its visitor. The veterans were some hundred and fifty +strong, and gave the Prince the heartiest of cheers. They proved to be +residents of California, about half of them being from San Diego itself. +They had all served in the forces of the British Empire in the Great +War. At their head was General Carruthers, lately Chief-of-the-Staff +with the Australian Expeditionary Force in France. It was a wonderful +spectacle of colour and cheerfulness, as the Prince went down the line, +shaking hands with his old comrades in the field, while mites in +pinafores pushed to the front to present him with bouquets, and pretty +girls in Highland costume sang "God save the King." The crowd broke +through the barriers, before the motor-cars, provided to convey the +party to the Stadium, had been reached, but everybody was in the +friendliest of humours, and did their utmost individually to make space +for the procession to start. The first three or four cars, containing +the Prince, the Governor, the Mayor, and a few of the Staff, eventually +got through. The rest extricated themselves gradually from the press of +people and vehicles, and made their way by more or less devious routes, +the road marked out for the procession having by this time become so +crowded as to be almost impassable. The procession reformed at the +Stadium, a mile or so distant. On the way, prosperous suburbs of +extraordinary attractiveness were passed, the houses often of +Spanish-colonial type, with deep verandas set in spacious gardens and +well-kept lawns, with masses of roses, geraniums, hibiscus, and purple +salt-grass in full bloom. The ground here was high, and one looked down +upon the city, with palm-trees in the foreground, and the harbour and +its shipping in the middle distance, while on the horizon were piled the +rugged mountains of southern California, pink in the evening light. + +The Stadium proved to be a massive open-air amphitheatre of +cream-coloured stone, capable of seating fifty thousand spectators, of +whom some ten thousand were present. Here complimentary addresses were +presented and replied to, the gathering applauding, with equal energy, +the heart-to-heart statement of Mayor Wild that the Prince was a +"regular fellow," and the impressive periods of Governor Stephens, who +dwelt upon the importance of the Royal visit as strengthening the +connexion between the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race. +Another feature of the occasion was the playing of a gigantic open-air +organ, the largest of its kind in the world. The organist sat by the +roadside and the pipes of his instrument pointed unprotected to the sky. +An official dinner and a ball followed later in the day at the big hotel +on Coronada Beach. Innumerable motor and other parties had meanwhile +been organized by individual residents, every one of the thirteen +hundred sailors and marines on the _Renown_ who could in any way be +spared from duty, being given a delightful outing and the kindest and +most hospitable of entertainment. In this way numbers of them were able +to see something of the wonderful country around San Diego, with its +incomparable mountains and valleys, and its hundreds of square miles of +fertile peach-orchards, just then one gorgeous mass of coral blossom. + +San Diego, with its famous bathing beach, its clear air, dry balmy +climate, and seventy thousand prosperous white inhabitants, thus took to +its generous western heart not alone the Prince himself, but also every +British soul aboard the ship by which he travelled. A year before, the +_Renown_ had become acquainted, in New York, with American kindness and +hospitality which seemed, at the time, to be impossible to equal. The +ship now had experience, on the other side of the American continent, of +a similar reception, in every way as warm and spontaneous, accorded too +by people as representative of the western states of the Union as New +York is of the eastern. This inclusion of the battle-cruiser's men was +one of the pleasantest features at almost every port of call upon the +voyage, but it was nowhere more general or more genial than in this +American city of the Far South. + + + + +V + +HONOLULU + + +In warm, moist atmosphere, and the tropical light that glares beneath a +cloudy sky, the _Renown_ dropped anchor in the open roadstead off the +rocky coast of Honolulu. Around the ship were depths of clear, +iridescent blue, with streaks of brilliant green where the water +shallowed inshore. Further on, a line of low, white breakers bounded a +green patchwork of undulating cultivation which sloped upwards, with +occasional ploughed fields of red, volcanic soil, towards a cloud-topped +horizon of mountains in the interior of the island. Immediately +overhead, showing black against the clouds, half-a-dozen flying boats +and aeroplanes rattled a cheery American welcome. The smoke of the +light-cruiser and dozen destroyers which had met the _Renown_ at sea and +escorted her to anchorage, drifted in the heavy air, blurring the cranes +and derricks of the inner harbour. + +Salutes banged off. Flags dipped and rose. Words of command rang through +the battle-cruiser. A guard-of-honour of marines, lined up in white +uniforms on the quarter-deck, came with a clank to attention. The notes +of the United States National Anthem floated out, as the American +Governor and other local authorities came aboard to pay visits of +ceremony to the Prince. It was our second glimpse of Imperial America. +It is just twenty-two years since the United States, after some +preliminary coquetting with Queen Liliuokalani, took up this white man's +burden in the Pacific under the style of a Territory; and her guests, +more familiar with the conception, looked with interest at the fringe of +the experiment. It seemed immensely prosperous and contented. Its +obvious aspects were those of a principal base of America's naval power +and the bourn of an endless tide of tourists, for whom alone the place +might exist with profit. These naturally exposed a social life almost +exclusively American. Hotels, newspapers, warehouses, factories, and +stores were managed by Americans. Only on the beach among the bobbing +craft of the breakers were the island originals conspicuous, at home in +an element they love. Elsewhere they seemed to form a brown undercurrent +of the Hawaiian world, content, in their Polynesian way, with a little +so it was easily come by. They are still, one gathers, much governed and +influenced by the missionaries to whom they owe their Christian faith. +Like the North American Indians they are fast dying out. Like the +Burmese they are content to be supplanted in their own labour market by +others--Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and Filipinos. Doubtless there +are Hawaiian boys at American Universities, Hawaiian professional men, +Hawaiian merchant princes, cultivated Hawaiians who read Bergson and +Bernard Shaw and are the product of a generation of progress; but our +opportunity was too brief to find them. It is hardly surprising that the +Hawaiian was not greatly in evidence, when one was told that there are +but 22,000 of pure race, against 110,000 Japanese for example, 31,000 +Americans and British and 23,000 Chinese, with a considerable Filipino +element, and more than a flavouring of Spanish. + +On a large open space upon the wharf, surrounded by the substantial +stone buildings of a prosperous modern harbour, the Prince landed to +receive his welcome to the island. On one side of the square was an +up-to-date guard-of-honour of United States infantry at attention, every +button gleaming, every uniform stitch identical, with that felicity of +neatness so characteristic of American kit, as His Royal Highness shook +hands with its commanding officer, and walked down the line. On the +other side was a motley gathering of his own fellow-countrymen and +women, residents of the island, who had served with the British Forces +during the war, and had now gathered, in varying costumes much mingled +with khaki bearing many a worn decoration, to do honour to their King's +eldest son, whom they cheered lustily. On the third side of the square +the indigenous element was represented by pleasant, brown-faced young +men in blue uniforms of modern cut, over which they wore brilliant red +and yellow tippets of priceless "Oo" and "Iiwi" feathers, handed down +from days gone by, when they were insignia of Hawaiian royalty. Their +function, on behalf of the remaining representatives of the ancient +dynasty, was to garland the British Prince with "lais," ropes of +close-strung pink carnations and scarlet ilima flowers, bringers of +good-luck, and to present him with a polished brown calibash, the size +of a foot-bath, adze-hewn, a hundred years ago, from hard-wood felled in +the interior, and now filled with a luscious assortment of bananas, +mangoes, loquats, paw-paws, water-lemons, pineapples, bread-fruit, and +crimson mountain-apples, symbols which made him free of the good things +of the island. + +Subsequently the Prince returned the official visits paid to him, and +was introduced to various local institutions. His reception by the +American Governor was in the spacious, many-windowed hall of the Iolani +palace, where an elected assembly of Hawaiian representatives now +prosaically meets in what were once such picturesque places of authority +as the king's bed-chamber and the queen's boudoir. On the walls a number +of mellowing oil-portraits, depicting stout, brown, benevolent monarchs, +uncomfortable but doubtless impressive in the tight fashions of the +Victorian age, mutely testified to the splendours of the past. They +seemed to look down at the function with mingled sorrow and superiority, +as those who could have given an entertainment committee points on such +an occasion as this. + +Famous the world over is the surf-riding of Honolulu's wide Waikiki +beach. To surf-ride with the joy of confidence it is necessary to have +an acute sense of balance; it is even more necessary to be able to swim. +The base of the exercise is a flat surf-board, the shape of a snow-shoe, +with which the rider swims out to meet the approaching breaker. This, +with bewildering agility, he then mounts and strides, and the breaker +carries him poised and dramatic to the beach. The adventure was most +graceful when it succeeded, but it often ended in a considerable tumble +in which the swimmer was lucky to escape a bang upon the head from his +own capsized means of support. + +The Prince was naturally enthusiastic for an initiation, and came off in +the end passing well, to the delight of the heterogeneous crowd that had +assembled in bathing costumes appropriate to the warmth of the occasion +to see him undergo it. Cinematograph men, in swaying surf-boats, made a +valiant effort for pictures alongside the swimmers, but, for once upon +the tour, were handsomely discomfited, for the rollers of the Waikiki +beach are no respecters of public purposes. + +In the evening, H.R.H. was taken to an official ball, given by the +Governor, in the spacious town armoury, where the principal white +residents, now costumed in the garments of civilization, were formally +presented beneath a forest of national flags, amongst which predominated +the Stars and Stripes of the United States and the combined Union Jack +and tricolor of Honolulu. The ball was much as other balls, but it had +an unusual pendant. Before midnight struck the Prince was spirited away +ten miles across the island, through long shadowy aisles of pillared +cabbage-palms, shining ghost-like in dim starlight, beneath dense +foliage of bread-fruit, mango, and coco-nut trees, where sweet-scented +aloes perfumed the warm, still night, and on through grey cuttings in +volcanic rock, to the country-house of Mr. Robert Atkinson, to whom had +occurred the excellent idea of affording him an opportunity of seeing a +real "Hookupu" gathering, now a very rare event amongst the dwindling +race of Hawaiians. Stout, white-robed, brown-faced ladies, bearing the +coloured, feather-tipped sticks of royal state, and chanting the "aloa" +of welcome, lined the path leading to the deep-foliaged "ouhani" tree of +happiness which shaded the front of the bungalow, a self-sown visitant +that every Hawaiian prizes, provided only that it has not been +artificially planted, and that it is not at the back of the residence. +Here, in a large and reckless hole in the well-kept lawn, the entire +carcases of four pigs, quantities of chickens, fish, and sweet potatoes, +wrapped closely in green "ti" leaves, were in process of being roasted +by Hawaiian cooks, the heat being provided by boulders, previously made +red-hot, with which the sides and bottom of the pit had been lined. +Fruit was piled high in golden profusion, upon low, wooden platforms +around which, upon mats on the ground, the Prince and other guests took +their seats. Princess Kawananakoa, a lady of fine figure, in middle +life, dressed in the conventional garments of Bond Street, +representative of the Hawaiian Royal house, was given a place of honour +next to the guest of the occasion. Hawaiian soldiers in yellow robes, +with scarlet head-pieces that might have been patterned on the helmet of +Achilles, and gold-tipped "tabu" staves, the size of broom-sticks, which +represented life-and-death authority under the old regime, took up +stations in the background. Immense flower-garlands were hung round the +visitors' necks and they were served, upon plates of "ti" leaves, with +savoury viands from the still smoking pit. + +Then from gourd-lutes of a weird band of musicians, tinkled out a soft +refrain. Suddenly, from the dim shelter of an aerial-rooted banyan tree, +human voices reinforced the chant, and four Hawaiian damsels, +voluminously clad in flaming yellow feather-mantles, ending in deep +ruffs over the ankles, leapt gracefully upon a mat in front, where they +were joined by two similarly caparisoned and equally agile male partners +with whom they proceeded to dance. The performance was like an Indian +_nautch_ run mad. The heads and busts of the dancers remained almost +stationary, thus forming a fulcrum around which the rest of their +persons seemed to gyrate, with serpentine arms, india-rubber hips, and +racing feet, the dancers, all the time, pouring out doleful melodies to +which the gourd-lutes twanged in solemn harmony. One could almost see, +as the weird notes rose and fell, Polynesian folk, in frail, palm-wood +canoes, blown out to sea by fierce Eastern typhoons, from fisheries on +the far coasts of the Malay, to perish mournfully and alone, in the vast +empty spaces of the Pacific, only an occasional wanderer, through the +centuries, finding refuge in some rare isle, and there building up a +race of mingled blood, whose high cheek-bones, soft tongue, swaying +dances and outrigged boats, speak of a Mongolian origin and an Eastern +home. + +Another expedition, on which the Prince was taken before leaving +Honolulu, was to a grass-grown hill, once the scene of human sacrifice, +where a pageant was being held in honour of the centenary of the arrival +in Honolulu of the Christian missionaries, who have played so important +a part in the history of the island. Here he saw half-naked folk, with +conch-shell trumpets, similar to those in use to-day at festivals at the +mouth of the Ganges, also processions of queer idol images that would +not have jarred the decorative scheme of a Durga-Puja celebration in +Hindustan. Scenes were here enacted, in which shapely brown maidens, +clad in ancient, indigenous paper garments, reminiscent of Japan, took +part. European missionaries, some of them lineal descendants of those +who landed in Honolulu from the brig _Thaddeus_ in 1820, also appeared +in the garments of their predecessors of a hundred years ago. One of the +incidents depicted was the historical breaking up and burning of the +island idols in the days of Queen Kaahumanu, widow of King Kamshamcha, +"the lonely one." There was a tense moment in the audience when the +first image had to be flung upon the ground, for superstition dies hard +even after a century's banning; but the image was flung and went into +fifty pieces, at the feet of civilization. Christianity is now the only +religion actively practised in the island, but the Hawaiian prefers to +be on the safe side in case the old powers of darkness should not be +altogether dead. He is not a whole-hearted iconoclast. + + + + +VI + +NEPTUNE BOARDS THE _RENOWN_ + + +The relations between the Royal Navy and H.M. King Neptune are known to +partake of the spirit of compromise which so happily characterizes the +British Empire elsewhere. Neptune permits the suzerainty but demands a +certain ceremonial which acknowledges his ancient rights. The function +has a date and a determination and is observed by all King George's +vessels on crossing the Equatorial line. It is in the nature of an +initiation and lends itself to gruesome and alarmist description. For +days before the _Renown_ reached the specified spot our feelings were +harrowed and our dreams disturbed by foretellings of the unescapable +ordeal of all novices. There was no immunity in being a passenger, even +in being the Chief Passenger. Neptune was not aware of passengers. The +wardroom was horrid with boding. Mercifully we were preserved from the +imagination of the snotties. + +The Royal Navy does nothing by half. Elaborate preparations were made +long in advance. Active brains in Wardroom, Gunroom, Warrant Officers', +Petty Officers', Engineers' and Stokers' messes and in the lower deck, +found a morning and an evening occupation inventing rhymed patter, +designing and making the weirdest of costumes, in which oakum, canvas, +ship's-paint, and stove-soot all largely figured. An extensive stage was +erected on the forecastle with a sail forty feet long, containing four +feet of sea water, convenient for the "baptizing" of all those on the +ship, of whom there must have been at least five hundred, who had not +previously crossed the line. Wooden razors the size of cutlasses, +barrels of lather made of coloured flour and water, whitewash brushes +for applying the same to the countenance were provided, also a +gauge-glass for a clinical thermometer, a cutlass for a lancet, and +quantities of dough-pills, the size of marbles, well flavoured with +bitter quinine, for physicking the victim before his ablution. + +The Prince himself was one of the most active of the conspirators. To an +inquiry sent "up top" (i.e. to the Prince's quarters) a reply signed by +Captain Dudley North, R.N., was received by the "Father of the ship" +(i.e. the Commander), upon whose broad shoulders falls responsibility of +every kind. + +It ran: + + "His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales has not yet crossed the + Line. I am desired by H.R.H. to say that he is looking forward with + interest to his meeting with His Majesty King Neptune and + Amphitrite, his wife, and also to his initiation as a Freeman of + His Majesty's domains. + + The following members of the staff have crossed the Line, and are + entitled to wear the various classes of the Order of the Bath + bestowed on them by His Majesty:-- + + Rear-Admiral Sir Lionel Halsey has crossed the Line on upwards of + 200 occasions; in fact, for some time this officer is understood to + have supported himself on it. It is understood that he has been + strongly recommended for the order of the 'Old Sea Dog.' + + Captain Dudley North has crossed the Line nine times, and has been + personally decorated by His Majesty. + + Lieut.-Colonel Grigg and Lord Claud Hamilton have already crossed + the Line--the former twice, the latter four times. These officers + have, however, stated that owing possibly to some special favour, + or else to some serious preoccupation on the part of His Majesty, + they were not privileged to undergo the full ceremony of + initiation. They are all the more anxious, therefore, on this + account, to pay every respect to His Majesty, and not to presume on + his former graciousness. In expressing their humble duty to His + Majesty they await, with great humility, the verdict of his most + excellent Court as to whether they will be required to be initiated + or not. + + The following members of H.R.H.'s staff have not yet crossed the + Line or had the honour of an audience with His Majesty:-- + + Sir Godfrey Thomas, Bart. Captain the Hon. Piers Leigh. The Bears + will, no doubt, attend to these gentlemen." + +Each novice upon the ship meanwhile received a notice summoning him to +present himself at noon on the 10th April: + + "Before our Court, at the Equator, in order that we may confer upon + you the Freedom of the Seas, and our permission to enter the other + hemisphere." + +The proceedings began after dinner over-night when the Prince and his +staff accompanied the Captain to the Bridge. The lights were turned off +and in the darkness one could feel the presence of the entire ship's +company crowded upon every vantage point. + +Out of the blackness from in front came the shout + +"Ship-ahoy!" + +with the Captain's deep + +"Aye, Aye," + +in reply, as searchlights swept the sea. + +_Neptune_: "What ship are you?" + +_Captain_: "His Britannic Majesty's Battle-Cruiser _Renown_." + +_Neptune_: "I wish to come on board." + +_Captain_ (to Officer of Watch): "Stop both." (To Neptune, shouting). +"My engines are stopped. I am sending an officer to conduct Your Majesty +to my Bridge." + +Rockets went up, and in a falling shower of sparks a procession of +strange figures climbed into the ship from over the side. Neptune, +Amphitrite, judge, barber, and doctor, with attendant imps, bears, and +policemen were there in the most realistic of scales, fins, mermaids' +hair and ursine fur. They carried brobdingnagian batons, razors, shaving +brushes and trident. Their appearance was terrific. + +The party was escorted with much formality to the Bridge, where Neptune +and Amphitrite were presented to the Prince and drinks were stood to +Their Majesties and the Court party, neither were there any heel-taps. +_Pourparlers_ were exchanged in ceremonial verse, Captain Taylor making +the following frank explanation: + + "Our business is to take a Royal Prince + To see a portion of our Empire's land. + The Prince of Wales, he is our passenger + Who hopes to meet your Bears and clasp your hand." + +It seemed impossible for the spirits of the deep to communicate in +anything less metrical than this, and Neptune acknowledged his reception +and announced his intention to hold an Investiture as well as a few +other things, the following day, in the same fashion. + +Next morning the circumstance was even more elaborate. Proceedings began +upon the quarter-deck, where the "Companionship of the Royal Order of +the Equatorial Bath" was solemnly conferred upon the Prince, and a +"Knight Commandership of the Ancient Order of the Old Sea Dog" upon +Admiral Halsey. H.R.H. responded in lyrical strains which concluded:-- + + "I know I'm for it, King; so, boys, + Don't let me keep the party waiting"-- + +a touch of _panache_ that was duly applauded. The Court-Martial of two +selected prisoners came next to a roar from Neptune: + + "And if they drown I do not care a fig. + Arrest Mountbatten and the Man called Grigg!" + +For the moment these unhappy persons were roped and bound, while the +Investiture went forward. Captain Dudley North was made a Knight +Commander of the Aged Cod in these terms: + + "Dudley dear, I'm pleased to meet you + Once again. Now let me treat you + To the old established Order of the Very Ancient Cod. + Its privilege is this, + That you may daily kiss + The most beauteous of my mermaids if you catch her on the nod." + +A move was finally made to the forecastle where was duly performed the +physicking, shaving and ducking of the novices, beginning with the +Prince and members of his staff and going down to the youngest seamen on +the lower deck. The novices were marched up and seated, one after +another, in the barber's chair, where a pill was squeezed into each +one's mouth, despite the most lively struggles; the lather was laid on, +a rough scrape with the wooden razor followed, the chair was upset and +the now seasoned novice was sent head over heels into the swimming bath, +where the Bears ducked him handsomely to the cheerful rhyme: + + "Shave him and bash him, + Duck him and splash him, + Torture and smash him, + And don't let him go!" + +The Prince underwent a full share of the horse-play; and that he took a +"three-times-three ducking" with the best, was the opinion of every one +of the thirteen hundred sailor-men who looked on, and would have been +candour itself if the ritual had been in any way reduced or evaded. + +It was a spectacle impossible to imagine anywhere but in the British +Navy, and helped hilariously to relieve the monotony of the voyage. The +cost of the material employed was probably less than a hundred +shillings. The labour and artistry voluntarily bestowed by the ship's +Company to make it what it was, cost nothing at all; the preparations, +from the elaborate embroidering of Amphitrite's scales and the careful +scenting of her golden hair, to the fine turning and engraving of the +Insignia of the Equatorial Order of the Royal Bath, were all the work of +off-duty hours when the sailor ordinarily would have been asleep. We are +but children of a larger growth and happy are the traditions that keep +us so in His Majesty's Navy. + + + + +VII + +FIJI + + +Fiji was the next place of call. Warm rain drove blusterously into our +faces, while dense grey mist enveloped the land and shut out the sun, as +the _Renown_ felt her way between wreck-strewn barrier reefs, over which +the surf was breaking heavily, and dropped anchor, to the tick of the +appointed time, in the sheltered water of Suva Bay. As the ship cleared +the harbour entrance, a fleet of sailing craft, including a number of +decked, outrigged war-canoes, with pear-shaped mat-sails and half-naked +crews, tore dipping through the waves to escort her in. These war-canoes +tacked, in the stiff breeze, by a simple expedient. The sail was +reversed. The rudder, a big movable oar, was then carried from one end +of the canoe to the other, so that what had just been the prow became +the stern, the floating log, that served as outrigger, remaining always +to windward--apparently an attempt at realizing the historic account of +the bow-sprit that "got mixed with the rudder sometimes." + +The little craft were identical with those that Tasman may have seen +when his brig cast anchor off these islands three hundred and seventy +years ago. But everything else has changed. Generations of Wesleyan +missionaries have transformed snake-worship into universal Christianity. +Sixty thousand coolies from India have rendered it possible for the +sugar-cane to replace unproductive forest. The ninety thousand +fuzzy-headed Fijians who have survived successive epidemics of measles +and influenza have given up the savoury heresies of roast long pig and +have taken on trousers, education, and wealth. The substantial +maroon-coloured roofs of their dwellings upon the shore, which emerged +from a tumbled background of cloud-topped mountain when the mist lifted, +were indicative of the prosperity and civilization which have been +steadily growing in the forty-six years since the British Government +took over the administration from King Thakombau. + +Sir Cecil Rodwell, High Commissioner of the Western Pacific, and Mr. +Scott, Mayor of Suva, representatives of the present system of rule, +came out by launch to the _Renown_, to pay their respects as soon as the +anchor was down. There was no official landing till the following +morning, when in hot sunshine alternating with warm, driving rain the +Prince went ashore at Suva. The entire population of the town, a place +of some six thousand inhabitants, was there to welcome him. In front, +the principal European residents, with a contingent of leading Fijian +chiefs, and representatives of the large Indian community, all in +western dress, were lined up to be presented. Behind stood a +well-drilled guard-of-honour of Fijians, in khaki, with heads protected +from the fierce rays of the sun by hair that might be the despair and +envy of the boulevards, twelve inches _en brosse_, and of a ferocity! +Further on were a number of European returned soldiers, with hospital +nurses, and other war workers, also returned members of a Fijian labour +corps which had done good service in France and Italy. The whole +assemblage was surrounded by a polyglot crowd of Islanders and Indians +in all the picturesqueness of Polynesian and Oriental garb. Municipal, +Fijian, Indian, and missionary addresses were afterwards presented, and +inspections, investitures, and receptions held, a state dinner and a +ball being amongst the functions provided. + +Fijian national ceremonies took place in the afternoon, the principal +being the solemn presentation by the chiefs and headmen of "tahua" (the +whale's tooth) in token of fealty. This was celebrated, immediately +after heavy rain, on a meadow crowded with aborigines. The actors were +half a hundred well-fed, semi-naked Fijians, clad in nothing but sooty +face-paint, white cloth bustles, and loin-robes of green, pink, and +white fibre-ribbons. The general effect produced was that of an animated +contingent of frilled ham-bones that waved, leapt, swayed and chanted, +sometimes upright, sometimes squatting upon the sodden turf, a scene of +almost disconcerting gaiety. The whale teeth were handed to the Prince +by a white-robed hereditary courtier, and were the size and shape of +yellow cucumbers, strung together with coloured thread. The acceptance +produced a chorus of deep resonant grunts of "Daweha"--"It is taken." +There followed the no less solemn ceremony of preparing and drinking the +"Kava," the produce of the Yaqona root, to cement the bonds of +friendship. The emptying of the last coco-nut cup of this +sharp-flavoured, cloudy liquid was greeted with loud cries of +"Mada"--"It is dry." + +The yaqona root, from a twig or two of which the kava drink was brewed, +might have been an enormous ash-tree stool, with partly-grown +ground-shoots, uprooted from an English copse. The stripping of the +bark, the pounding it with stones, the macerating it with water in a big +carved wooden bowl, and its presentation to the Prince and other guests +in coco-nut shells, was performed with solemn chanting. The ceremony +included the stretching of a coco-nut fibre string, strung at intervals +of a few feet with cowrie-shells, in token of Royal authority, between +the Prince's chair and the men preparing the kava. To cross this string, +in days gone by, while the proceedings were in progress, would have +involved nothing less than to be clubbed to death. Those were doubtless +days when such functions were less chronicled and more respected. + +Timed clapping, which sounded like the thuds of successive buckets of +water thrown from an upper window upon the pavement, completed the first +part of the performance. A "meke"--dance--by three hundred gorgeously +caparisoned Fijian warriors, wielding each an ancient battle-axe, which +followed, was a marvel of well-timed movement. The muddy ground shook as +the men stamped in unison, their bodies swaying in perfect rhythm as +they acted the spirited paddling of canoes, the hauling at ropes, the +pointing at the enemy, the leaping from the boat to the attack, and, +after the fight was over, the sad breaking of the waves upon the shore. +Their deep "Dua-ho," or grunt of welcome to the Prince, might have been +the roll of many drums. + +The final stage in the performance came with the marching up of some +hundreds of white-garbed bearers, each carrying a locally woven mat. +These mats, some of them of a texture that challenged the fineness of a +Panama straw hat, were deposited upon the ground in front of the Prince +in a heap that grew to the dimensions of a small haystack before the +last had been laid upon it, and this, although special steps had been +taken to reduce the number of the offerings by restricting the issue of +permissions to contribute. + +The size of the haystack indicated the prosperity, as well as the +loyalty, of the Fijian chiefs, who still own much of the land in the +islands. The rule of these hereditary potentates dates through centuries +prior to the advent of the missionaries and the taking on of +civilization. Their dislike of live intruders, combined with their +appreciation of them dead and roasted, kept their own Papuan stock +remarkably pure-blooded. The race to-day thus presents characteristics +of its own not found in other Pacific island groups. The only other +outside races, in addition to a few thousands of Europeans, now found in +Fiji, are coolies, of mixed descent, from India. These coolies were +originally imported under a system of indenture requiring them to work +for a definite number of years for planter masters. They have been the +means of developing sugar and copra industries which would not otherwise +have been established upon anything like their present scale. Of late +years the indenture system has been discontinued, and some trouble has +arisen in connexion with the question of wage-rates, riots having +occurred in which several lives were lost. The gradual appreciation of +the possibilities of peaceful bargaining, however, combined with the +enlightened efforts of the present administration to understand +grievances and to remedy them, is reducing the unrest, which is, in some +ways, a healthy one, since it connotes conditions of prosperity +enabling the coolie to assert claims he was not previously strong enough +to press. + +The rich soil of the islands, and the equitable climate, which is much +like that of the rice-growing districts of the south of India, promise +enhanced prosperity as the years go by, Fiji being a locality especially +suitable for the Indian immigrant. It is a place that, during the war, +sent a remarkably large proportion of its manhood to fight for the +allies, those who remained at home also keeping up their end with +spirit. The visitor is told a story, which has the virtue of being +authentic, of an occasion when Suva was without any naval protection. +Its wireless installation picked up signals sent out by the German +raider _Scharnhorst_, showing that this vessel was on its way to attack +the place. Sir Bickham Scott, at that time High Commissioner, rose to +the situation and sent a message into the air for the _Scharnhorst_ to +pick up. It was addressed to Admiral Patey, aboard H.M.S. _Australia_, +the only allied warship which, as the commander of the _Scharnhorst_ +knew, might conceivably have been within call. It ran: "Thanks for your +message. Will expect you in the morning." The _Scharnhorst_ presumably +read this and pondered, for Fiji was left alone. + + + + +VIII + +AUCKLAND + + +A still, sun-filled autumn morning, with crisp sharp air that made it a +pleasure to be alive, on wide, sheltered mother-of-pearl waters, bounded +by grassy hills, with frequent hummocks and white gleaming cliffs, +greeted the _Renown_ as she neared New Zealand on the morning of the +24th of April, 1920. Dotted over the hills, like sheep at grazing, were +numerous red-roofed country houses, which developed pleasant gardens +with green fields between as the distance decreased. Out of shadowy bays +and inlets crept motor-boats in ones and twos and threes, the numbers +growing as township and village each contributed its quota, so that, by +the time the _Renown_ was amongst them, there had assembled a fleet of +very considerable dimensions decorated with flags and filled with +cheerful men, women and children, soldiers in khaki, wounded in hospital +blue, pretty girls in smart frocks, all clapping, cheering, and laughing +in the most inspiring welcome imaginable. + +The Prince climbed to his look-out above the bridge, and waved back a +cheery acknowledgment. Bands struck up in half a dozen of the boats. +Flags leapt up like wind-swept flowers in a herbaceous harbour. The +hubbub grew. Numbers of sailing yachts joined the assemblage. Rowing +boats chipped in, and, by the time the first harbour buoy was reached, +the _Renown_ was sliding along with some hundreds of small craft racing +beside her, in imminent danger of collision alike with her and with one +another. The last headland turned, Auckland itself came into view, a +red-and-white city climbing up the sides of a beautiful, sheltered cove, +with clear, deep water in front, and a green, conical extinct volcano +behind. Coloured bunting fluttered from the rigging of all the vessels +in port, and long vistas of greenery and flags led up the volcano from +the water's edge. One caught glimpses of wide wharves, black with +clustering crowds, and of dark masses of people on the slopes of +Rangitoto, all on the look-out for the arrival of the Prince from Mother +England. + +We had arrived at the first of the island continents which had drawn us +all, battle-cruiser, Prince and passengers, half-way round the world. +The ports of call behind us faded into instructive entertainments by the +way. Here was another home of the race, another place in the sun where +the breed throve and multiplied, and developed, under conditions fresh +and far from the source, the man and womanhood we are proud to call +British. + +Auckland was an appropriate starting point for the Royal tour. The city +was the capital of the Dominion until 1865 and now has over a hundred +thousand inhabitants. It was founded in 1840 by Captain Hobson, R.N., +when he added New Zealand to the Empire, the British Government having +characteristically disavowed the action of Captain Cook who set up the +Union Jack in 1779. The place had its godfather in Lord Auckland, the +most distinguished First Lord of the Admiralty in Hobson's time, and +thus a suitable sponser for the second city of a Dominion which owes its +being to the Empire's sea-power. Auckland now has a fine harbour and a +shipping trade of 2-1/2 million tons per annum. It is a place to which +the prosperous sheep farmer looks forward to retiring, as it has +educational opportunities, social amenities, and one of the most genial +climates in the whole Dominion. + +The _Renown_ was brought alongside one of the wharves, on which black +top-hats and brilliant uniforms guided the eye to groups which proved to +include the Prime Minister of the country, the Leader of the Opposition, +the members of the Cabinet, the General Officer Commanding, the Mayor of +Auckland, and the President of the Harbour Board. Thus New Zealand +waited to greet the Prince. + +At the appointed moment the Governor-General drove up in a motor-car. +The ship was dressed. Bands played, guards on the quarter-deck presented +arms, His Excellency was duly conducted aboard, where the Prince as duly +received him. Later on, with more saluting, a full brass band for the +Governor, and bos'n's whistling for the Prince, the Royal party went +ashore, and New Zealand welcomed her future King. It was a little bit of +England that had gone on board to make a call of ceremony. It was the +whole of New Zealand, heart and hand, that took charge of His Royal +Highness ashore. + +Out of a multitude of motors the procession to Government House was +formed. The cars proceeded through wide, well-built streets of stone +business houses, smothered in wreaths and flags. Crowds of cheering +people lined the pavement. Upstanding soldiers and cadets in smart khaki +uniforms kept the roadway. The Prince, by now, was standing on the seat +of his motor-car, waving greetings to the crowds, who responded +vociferously. Two equerries, on the front seats, clung to his coat-tail +to prevent his falling out of the vehicle. The Governor-General sat back +with a smiling face alongside. The route led through the city, and out +amongst solid residential houses, standing in gardens brilliant with +variegated chrysanthemums, flaming red salvias, purple bougainvilleas, +and the greenest of shaven lawns, with cedars and palms together +spreading the shade of the north and the south. + +Old Government House, which still serves an Excellency from Wellington +on tour, where the Dominion's address was read by the Hon. Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, with his Cabinet standing by, is a spacious, Georgian +building surrounded by an old-world garden of lawns, shrubs and flowers. +It has a homely charm and beautiful views; it made one think of Surrey, +and must have been left with regret when New Zealand changed her +capital. Thence the route led back through the city to the Town Hall, +which was packed to its utmost capacity with well-dressed people who +gave the Prince a rousing reception. Here more addresses were presented, +and an informal levee was held, everybody present filing past. Large +crowds, meanwhile, waited patiently outside for his reappearance. + +Later in the day the Prince was taken to the Domain cricket-ground, +where he reviewed five thousand returned soldiers and cadets and again +received an ovation. This cricket-ground is at the bottom of a shallow +valley, grassy hills forming a natural amphitheatre. Looked at from the +central stand while the review was in progress, the slopes of the +amphitheatre were as if covered with a fine Persian carpet, so thick was +the crowd upon the ground. It was a carpet that had frequent spasms of +agitation, the cheering and hat-slinging, whenever the Prince came near +to it, being exceedingly lively. H.R.H. first went down the lines of the +troops and had a friendly word for every officer and a number of the +men. Later on every man who had been wounded or disabled was presented +to him individually, the Prince going round to search them out himself. +When this had been completed he presented war decorations to those who +had won them at the front. It was nearly dark by the time the last hand +had been shaken and the last word said. The cheering, when it was over, +was something to remember. + +The following day was Anzac Sunday, and was taken up with religious +war-services, H.R.H. attending those at St. Mary's Cathedral in the +morning, and at the Town Hall in the afternoon. The Town Hall service +was especially impressive. The Prince, slender in the world-familiar +khaki, stood in the crowded gathering, and as the Dead March was played, +and the Last Post sounded in memory of sons who had fallen, the people +knew him the Empire's symbol of their sacrifice. Perhaps there, where +the women sobbed to see him, he touched the supreme height of his +mission. + +The cricket-ground, on the following day, was again the scene of an +enormous gathering. Eight thousand children were here assembled and +went through pretty evolutions and drill. In the terminal figure some +two thousand little girls, attired respectively in red, white and blue +frocks, so grouped themselves as to form, first the word "Welcome," and +afterwards the Union Jack, which waved and rustled as the children bent +and swayed to time given by a mite mounted on an eight-foot stool in +front. The crowd which surrounded the enclosure, on this occasion, was +estimated at thirty thousand. + +From Auckland the Prince went south on a train, every part of which, +from the engine to the brake-van, had been built in New Zealand +workshops. + +The first thing one realizes starting for anywhere in New Zealand is the +thing that has been a geography wonder since the age of nine, the queer +inversion of the climate. The experience is curious, notwithstanding all +one's submission to the fact since that time, so potent a governor of +associations is a little word. We had arrived at the North Island, where +the climate was warm and sunny like that of Italy. People coming with +more permanent intentions had a way of settling in the South Island to +be under home conditions of temperature, many of them gradually moving +across the Strait to the North Island in pursuit of balmier airs. We saw +the late autumn apples of April here and there ungathered on the trees +about Auckland, and were grateful to escape the imaginative dislocation +of a midsummer Christmas, with sunstroke as the punishment of +over-indulgence. It would be interesting to know in what period of +residence New Zealand undertakes to change one's dreams. + +A green, rolling land, homely turnip fields, orchards, pasture +containing fine cattle and sheep, pleasant, red-roofed farm-houses, +comfortable country residences, and thriving market towns at frequent +intervals, sped past the train. At Ngaruawahia, two thousand +brown-faced, high-cheekboned Maoris, in European dress, greeted the +Prince from outside the railway fence, men, women and children, hand in +hand, repeatedly bowing to the ground, to slow rhythmic soft-voiced +singing, as the train steamed by. At the same time, a dozen pretty Maori +girls, in flowing white frocks, bare feet, and raven masses of waving +fillet-bound hair, swayed, undulated and step-danced upon a mat upon the +side of the track. These folk were Maori, as often as not, by courtesy +rather than by strict racial description. Few pure-bred Maoris indeed +are now to be found in New Zealand, and it is said that the mixture of +brown and white is here more successful than anywhere else in the world. +At all events one received the impression of a people plastic to the +print of a new civilization, and developing happily in it. + +At Hamilton, a town of ten thousand inhabitants, more formal ceremonies +were gone through. The whole place was decorated. The people assembled +in the streets, where they cheered most vigorously. Several hundred +returned soldiers, and a very large number of children, stood in lines +upon the racecourse where they were inspected by the Prince. Several +addresses of welcome were read, that from the local municipality being +presented by Mayor Watt, a prominent Hamilton solicitor and a man of +much influence, also of dramatic instinct it appeared, since he +discarded for this occasion the chains and ermine of his official garb, +in favour of the private's uniform he had worn at the front. + +A few stations further on, five hundred children were upon the platform, +singing "God Bless the Prince of Wales," as the train went past. They +had come in from a neighbouring mining-camp to catch a glimpse of the +Royal visitor, who waved to them from his carriage. The flourishing +coal-mining centre of Huntley, where a valuable brown lignite, capable +of being coked, is being raised in large quantities from shafts, some of +which are only three hundred feet deep, was also passed, the inhabitants +assembling along the railway line and cheering as the train went +through. A large experimental farm, where the secret of converting +barren land into fruitful by means of basic slag has been discovered; +cold storage factories where incredible masses of New Zealand mutton are +being preserved for export; and extensive works where pumice, here found +in the scoria of long-extinct volcanoes, is turned into material for the +insulating of boilers, passed in procession before the train. We saw +also peat-swamps, in process of profitable reclamation by means of +drainage, in the valley of the wide Waikato stream. + +Presently a second engine was attached to the train, which now crept +slowly upwards, through a tangled wilderness of dense-forested gorge and +mountain canyon, the scenery being of the wildest. The imported spruce, +oak, willow, and ash of the more settled region gave place to feathery +green _punga_ tree-ferns, and stiff brown _tawa_ of indigenous growth. +Clearings were seen at intervals where cultivation struggled with the +grey, bushy _manuka_ scrub; well-kept fields, in the hands of white +settlers, alternating with unkempt jungle, where the easy-going communal +_hapu_ tenure of Maori ownership is still in force. + +Suddenly, the scenery opened up, and we saw, in the soft rays of the +setting sun, a wide panorama of blue lake, and olive-green headland, +round the dark, conical Mokoia island, famous in Maori tradition as the +trysting-place to which Princess Hinomaa and her lover Tutanekai swam +across the lake. Here, almost in the shadow of the Tarawera volcano, +which blew up with terrific results to the countryside thirty years ago, +we found the pleasant little station of Rotorua, where an address was +presented and the Prince shook hands with a long line of returned Maori +soldiers. + +Visits to the wonderful spouting geysers of this famous neighbourhood, +with Maori receptions and national dances, occupied the next two days, +some of the party also taking advantage of the holiday to catch a number +of very fine lake-trout, creatures which have thriven and multiplied +amazingly since their importation from Great Britain a few years ago. +The Maori dances are a thing by themselves. They are performed by +warriors and maidens in phalanxes. The men, often stout and sometimes +elderly, who in ordinary life may be lawyers, landlords, doctors, or +retail dealers, put patches of black paint on their faces, array +themselves in tassellated _pui-pui_ mat loin-clothes and arm themselves +with slender feather-tufted spears. Then, bare-footed, bare-legged, +bare-backed, and bare-headed, they line up in battalions, and leap and +stamp, stick their tongues out, grimace, slap their knees, emit volleys +of sharp barking shouts, and thrust and swing their spears, in wonderful +time to the music of full string bands. The ladies, many of them +good-looking, with melting brown eyes, well-developed figures, and +graceful carriage, are more restrained in their performances. They are +bare-headed, with long waving hair down their backs, kept in place by a +coloured ribbon round the forehead. They may be dressed in voluminous +brown cloaks of soft _kiwi_ feathers, or in loose, embroidered draperies +of every colour, their feet and ankles, sometimes bare, sometimes +encased in high-heeled American shoes and black lace stockings. They +stand or sit in long lines, singing the softest of crooning songs, the +while swaying, posturing, undulating, or step-dancing in perfect unison, +to represent the movement of paddling, spinning, weaving, swimming, or +setting sail. At the same time they swing white _poi_-balls, the size of +oranges, attached to strings, which form in their swift gyrations gauzy +circles of light around each hand, a charming performance worthy of +Leicester Square. + +In the case of Rotorua ceremonies, performances took place, first on the +lake shore, on ground which emitted clouds of steam in the very face of +the dancers, and afterwards, on a much larger scale, on a wide grassy +plain adjoining, where six thousand Maoris, brought from all parts of +New Zealand, the South Island as well as the North, were encamped in +military bell-tents, a legacy of the war. Here, battalion after +battalion, first of men, then of girls, and finally of the two combined, +performed in quick succession, at least a thousand dancers taking part, +while ten thousand spectators, about half of whom may have been Maoris +or half-castes, and the balance Europeans, looked on and applauded. Here +I suppose if anywhere we saw the pure-blooded Maori, though it seems a +distinction with little difference. Unlike most Orientals, the children +of mixed ancestry continue the traditions of the pure-breeds, put on +their clothes, speak their language and boast their ancestry. One of the +most striking of the figures was where the warriors stole out between +ranks of dancing maidens, to take an enemy unawares, who was supposed to +have been beguiled into believing that he had only women to deal with. +Sir James Carrol and the Hon. Mr. A. T. Ngata, both Maori members of the +New Zealand Parliament, and both distinguished speakers, took a +prominent part in the ceremonies. + +The address presented to the Prince by these loyal and attractive people +was characteristically picturesque. It was read, first in English, and +afterwards in Maori, by one of the chiefs, an elderly gentleman of +reverend appearance in fine Kiwi robe, who spoke in a pleasant, +resonant, well-rounded voice. "You bring with you," he said, "memories +of our beloved dead. They live again who strove with you on the fields +of TU in many lands beyond seas. Your presence there endeared you to the +hearts of our warriors. Your brief sojourn here will soften the sorrows +of those whose dear ones have followed the setting sun. Royal son of an +illustrious line, king that is to be, we are proud that you should carry +on the traditions of your race and house. For it is meet that those who +sit on high should turn an equal face to humble as to mighty. Walk, +therefore, among your own people sure of their hearts, fostering therein +the love they bore Queen Victoria and those who came after her. Welcome +and farewell. Return in peace without misgivings, bearing to His Majesty +the King, and to Her Majesty the Queen, the renewal of the oath we swore +to them on this ground a generation ago. The Maori people will be true +till death, and so farewell." + +The history of the Maoris is one long record of chivalry and courage, +and their promise is one they will perform. + + + + +IX + +NORTH ISLAND + + +Among the telegrams which met the Royal train on its way from Auckland +to Rotorua was one of a character which differed from the rest. The +message was addressed to Rt. Hon. William Massey, that embodiment of +notable ability, kindly good sense and unquenchable spirit whom this +Dominion is so fortunate as to have as Prime Minister, who was on the +train. It announced a general railway strike unless certain demands of +drivers and men, some time pending, were agreed to by the Government. It +was in the form of an ultimatum which expired at midnight, an hour which +found the tour at Rotorua. Against the extreme and humiliating public +inconvenience of the moment thus selected must be placed the immediate +offer of the strikers, to complete the schedule of the Royal train, to +take the Prince in fact wherever he wished to go. While the offer was +declined in the main it was accepted as far as a return journey to +Auckland, where the Prince thus spent several unforeseen days while +matters were being adjusted. The time had to be cut out of later +dispositions. It was spent in private engagements, in the much qualified +sense of the word as it applied to any of the Royal arrangements. The +strike was ultimately settled through the efforts of Mr. Massey, who, +being denied the service of the railroad, drove several hundred miles +over sodden mountain roads, in the worst of weather, from Rotorua to +Wellington to discuss the matter with the men's leaders there. The +settlement did much credit to the forbearance of both sides. It did not +go into the merits of the immediate question, which was as to the rate +of compensation to be paid to the men in consideration of the increased +cost of living, but provided a tribunal, on which the strikers and the +railway management should be equally represented, with a co-opted +neutral chairman, to report upon the merits of the demand, and suggest +the best way of doing justice to all concerned. The acceptance of this +sensible arrangement was largely aided by the New Zealand Amalgamated +Society of Railway Servants, this important organization putting +pressure upon the drivers and firemen to return to work while the +tribunal was taking evidence. The incident afforded interesting proof, +not only of the confidence inspired by Mr. Massey himself, but also of +the reasonableness of the attitude of labour in this part of the world. +Industrial discontent is a more manageable thing in a country where the +great majority of the men own their homes and the half-acre that +surrounds them. The struggle for better conditions is sweetened by the +air of gardens, and every operative has the interest in the general +prosperity that comes of a private stake in it. + +The Royal party left Auckland in three railway trains, a pilot, a main, +and an emergency, the Prince and staff travelling in the middle one. The +New Zealand Government was represented by Sir William Fraser, Minister +of the Interior, a Highland Scotchman from the South Island. Official +appointments to accompany the tour were happily made throughout, but +never more than in this instance, where the extraordinary kindliness and +charm of the Minister of the Interior enhanced the great volume of his +experience, to the pleasure and profit of every member of the party. +Another of those present was General Sir Edward Chaytor, commanding the +forces in New Zealand, a soldier whose world reputation has not in any +way interfered with the simplest manner and the most delighted +directness of mind. It was his function to present to the Prince the +military side of New Zealand life, a side which was represented at every +centre visited, alike by surprisingly large numbers of returned soldiers +from the forces which gave such splendid account of themselves in the +great war, and by considerable bodies of smartly turned-out territorials +and cadets. Accompanying General Chaytor was Colonel Sleeman, also a +remarkable personality, to whose initiative is largely due the system of +cadet-training now in force in New Zealand, a system which is doing +wonders in the matter of infusing the best public-school spirit into +previously unkempt national schoolboys and larrikins, teaching them to +play the game, giving them a pride in themselves, and interesting them +in physical culture, and in the duties of citizenship, so that their +parents have become as keen as themselves that they should go through +the courses. Another of the party was Mr. James Hislop, Permanent +Under-Secretary of the Interior, one of the ablest members of that fine +body, the New Zealand civil service, who organized the arrangements of +the tour, and whose irrepressible humour, good fellowship, and infinity +of resource, in disposing of what seemed to most of us an utterly +overwhelming burden of work, were a continual wonder to everybody upon +the train. No less important amongst those outstanding figures of the +New Zealand party, was Mr. R. W. McVilly, General Manager of the +railways of the country, a man who with his predecessor, Mr. E. H. +Hiley, has succeeded in doing in New Zealand what proved impossible, in +England and in the United States. Under their direction the railway +system of the Dominion was carried on throughout the war without break +in management and without making any loss. It did not take travellers +long to discover the affection and respect in which the Director-General +was held, not only by his colleagues, but by all who came in contact +with him. + +The British pressmen with the tour were particularly happy in their New +Zealand newspaper associates. Amongst these gentlemen were Professor Guy +Scholefield, who holds the chair of English Literature at the University +of Dunedin and who knows New Zealand inside and out, from the historic +as well as the modern point of view; and Mr. F. H. Morgan, representing +that business-like organization the New Zealand Press Association, a +practical journalist, a helpful colleague, and one of the best of good +fellows. + +Although the main train journey was only decided upon a few hours before +a start was made from Auckland, all the arrangements worked with +extraordinary smoothness, and the number of people assembled at even the +smallest wayside stations to cheer the Prince was astonishing. At +Frankton, the first stopping-place after leaving Auckland, the gathering +around the station consisted largely of the very railway men who had +just been on strike. Their reception of the Prince had the special +cordiality that carries a hint of apology. One of their number indeed, +acting as spokesman, explained in a speech which could not be considered +inopportune, how much they all regretted having been the cause of delay +to the Royal tour. At Tekuiti, another small station, a more formal +reception took place, in which some five hundred children, collected +from the schools in the neighbourhood, participated with characteristic +fervour. + +Through the night the Royal train traversed the red-pine Waimarino +forest, mounted two thousand feet up the Raurimu spiral, passed the +still smoking summit of the Ngauruhoe volcano, and emerged at daylight +upon the rolling plains of the rich Taranaki dairying country. Here +pastoral land, though still dotted with the blackened stumps of bygone +forest, is worth to-day anything up to one hundred and fifty pounds +sterling per acre. Thence, passing beneath the snow-streaked cone of the +extinct volcano Mount Egmont, the train rolled out upon the open western +coast, and entered the gorse-encircled city of New Plymouth. Here the +Prince was given a picturesque reception beneath spreading _Insignis_ +pines, in a natural grass-covered amphitheatre, of beautiful Pukikura +park. Conducted by General Melville, commanding the district, he +inspected a large gathering of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and +cadets. He also went through the ranks of masses of school-children, who +waved long wands topped with white and red feathery _toi-toi_ grass, and +sang patriotic songs. In the course of a reply, later on, to a civic +address, read by Mr. F. Bellringer, General Manager of the Borough, the +Prince referred to the splendid prospects of the north-west coast, also +to its fine war record, adding: "When I look at the development of this +wonderful dairying country, I am amazed at the enterprise and energy +which have achieved so much in little more than two generations." + +It is indeed amazing. Taranaki does much with butter, sending to such a +competitive country as Canada nearly 12,000 cwts. in 1918, and even more +with cheese, producing a particularly delectable Stilton. There are +fifty-seven butter factories and one hundred and eleven devoted to +cheese. To carve these conditions out of virgin forest in two +generations is a feat that well deserved its recognition. + +The route thereafter lay through a land of spacious, green sheep-downs, +overlooking a blue, sun-lit sea, as idyllic as a pasture of the +Eclogues. On the way, at Stratford, Hawera and Patea, the Prince +received and replied to addresses and inspected gatherings of returned +soldiers, sailors, nurses, and cadets, besides incredible numbers of +fat, red-cheeked children, assembled with their teachers to do him +honour. Speaking at Hawera, the scene of fighting in days gone by, +between _Pakeha_--white strangers--and Maori natives, "Nothing," said +His Royal Highness, "has impressed me more in New Zealand than the +evidence I have found everywhere that Pakeha and Maori are now one +people in devotion to the Dominion, the Empire and the King." + +[Illustration: WELLINGTON: A CANOE IN THE PETONE PAGEANT] + +[Illustration: "THE MAORI PEOPLE WILL BE TRUE TILL DEATH"] + +Proceeding afterwards to Wanganui, a more imposing welcome awaited him, +ten thousand enthusiastic people being found assembled in a big +grass-covered stadium. Here, some of the territorials he inspected +insisted upon drawing his motor-car round the grounds. In the course of +a reply to an address read by the Mayor, the Prince put into words what +was so plain in his actions. "I value," he said, "more than anything the +opportunity this journey gives me of making the acquaintance of the +people of New Zealand, many of whose gallant sons I knew on active +service in the great war." A visit followed to the Wanganui college, a +fine institution where three hundred of the sons of the settlers of the +Dominion are receiving up-to-date education upon British public-school +lines. Later in the evening the Prince attended a concert, also a +democratic supper-party of the heartiest description, held in enormous +marquees, at which three thousand people were present. The Prince and +his staff were served at a table on a raised platform in the middle of +the biggest of the marquees, so that as many people as possible might +see him, a distinction which apparently caused His Royal Highness no +loss of appetite. + +From Wanganui the Prince motored twenty-five miles through undulating +fields of grass, turnips and rape, alternating with patches of yellow +gorse, the last introduced from the old country by sentimental but +ill-advised settlers, and now a most troublesome field-pest, special +legislation having had to be introduced requiring owners of land, under +penalty, to prevent its spreading. Crossing the wooded valleys of the +beautiful Wanganui and Turakina rivers, the Ruahine mountains shining +through the morning mists upon the left, while spacious sheep-farms +sloped seawards upon the right, the Prince reached the township of +Marton, where the usual inspections and addresses took place. Thence +the party started by train to cross the country to the east coast port +of Napier. Receptions were held, _en route_, at the townships of +Feilding and Palmerston-North. In the course of the day the Prince +received a number of presents, including, from Maori chiefs, an ancient +and possibly unique greenstone _mere_ or battle-axe, and a fine +_Wharikiwoka_--a mat-cloak lined with feathers. At Palmerston-North +there was handed into his keeping the shot-torn colours actually carried +by the third British Foot Guards at the battle of Alexandria as along +ago as 1801. These colours had been handed down, from generation to +generation, by New Zealand descendants of Colonel Samuel Dalrymple, who +commanded this distinguished regiment in that engagement. They were +presented to the Prince by Mrs. J. H. Hankins, _nee_ Dalrymple. The +colours were said to be the only ones, belonging to a Guards regiment, +hitherto preserved elsewhere than in the British islands. + +Leaving Palmerston-North, the Prince proceeded through the gorge of the +rushing, turgid Manawatu river, alighting at the small wayside station +of Woodville, where a number of the inhabitants had assembled and where +he shook hands with a territorial officer, who, with the gay adventurous +spirit of the Dominion, had taken considerable risks in keeping pace +with the Royal train in a motor-car all the way from Marton, though part +of the route was along an unfenced winding mountain road on the side of +a cliff where the slightest obstruction or miscalculation might have +hurled the car and its occupants into the torrent below. + +From Woodville the Prince went on, through wide grass-covered plains, +dotted with pleasant homesteads, standing amidst thousands of browsing +sheep, along the broad, shallow, shingly reaches of the Waipawa river, +and past sunny apple-orchards, and coppices of oak, poplar and pine, at +times skirting breezy uplands where he saw shepherds and their families, +often from long distances in the interior waiting to cheer the train. + +The arrival at Napier, on the east coast of the island, was late in the +afternoon, in threatening weather. Yet the entire town of twelve +thousand inhabitants seemed to have assembled in the streets, and the +turn-out of returned sailors, soldiers, nurses, and cadets, at the +beautiful Nelson Park, on the seashore, where a reception was held and +an address presented by the Mayor, Mr. Vigor Brown, was most impressive. +In the course of his reply, in this centre, the Prince once more +referred to the quick coming prosperity of the land he had been +traversing. "It is amazing," he said, "to think that all the homely, +happy country I have seen on my journey here has been cleared, +cultivated and civilized in the life of two generations. The measure of +that splendid achievement is well reflected in this flourishing port and +town." + +The following morning the Prince was early afoot, yet the inhabitants +made a fine showing in the streets, as the procession of motor-cars +passed through to the station, where the Royal train was waiting to +convey the party on the long run southwards to Wellington, the capital. +The weather had cleared in the night and it was a lovely autumn morning +as we skirted the waters of Hawkes Bay, which washed against the steep, +white cliffs of Kidnappers' Island, still the home of thousands of +strong-winged gannets the size of geese. Arrived at Hastings, a solid +market town of ten thousand inhabitants, the Prince was conducted, +through lanes of cheering people, to the racecourse. Here yet another +large gathering of returned men, also territorials, cadets, nurses, and +children, had assembled, and yet another civic address was presented and +replied to. Similar experiences awaited the party at further +stopping-places, including Waipukurau, Dannevirke, Woodville, and +Pahiatua--the "place of God"--the number of the motor-cars, drawn up in +the rear of the crowds, testifying to the prosperity of the farmer-folk, +many of whom had been making fortunes out of the high prices of the +mutton, wool and dairy-produce they raise. At Dannevirke--Dane +Church--the Scandinavian origin of the township was reflected, not only +in the name, but in the faces of whiskered vikings who were to be seen +amongst those who came forward to shake hands with the Prince. They +contrasted quite obviously with the conventional Anglo-Saxons around +them, and recalled in their persons the fact that the settlement of +Dannevirke was originally made by a ship-load of government-aided +immigrants from Schleswig, Holstein. + +After leaving Dannevirke, the Prince took a turn on the foot-plate of +the engine of the train, which he drove at something like fifty miles an +hour to Woodville, where he had halted the day before. At Woodville the +track turned southwards through wilder country, including a certain +amount of still uncleared bush. Even here, however, the land is being +opened up, and I heard of farms changing hands at as much as seventy +pounds per acre. As the afternoon progressed halts were made at various +stations, including Featherston, where the Prince was received by +cheering crowds from a military training camp near by. At dusk the train +skirted the wide Wairarapa--lake of shining water--where wild swans +still breed in some numbers. Here we seemed to have reached the end of +the track, as high hills closed in on either side, and there was no sign +of a tunnel. The big single engine, however, was replaced by three +smaller ones of special make for mountain climbing, one of them being +attached at either end of the train and the third in the middle. A start +was then made up a zigzag track consisting of three rails, the third so +fixed in the middle, between the other two, that pulley wheels beneath +the body of the engines can get a purchase below it, thus completely +wedging the train and preventing its too sudden descent in case of +accident. Slowly then the train crawled up the gradient, which, in +places, is no less than one in fifteen. On the way we passed heavy +timber-fences erected to break the force of the wind, which has been +known so strong, at times on this part of the line, as to overturn a +train. In the darkness we crossed the Rimutaka--ridge of fallen +trees--and slid smoothly down to the other side into the rich Hutt +valley in which Wellington stands. + +A fairy city of lights, outlining spires, roofs and street lines, lay by +reflection in the black water of a broad still harbour, as the train +skirted the low coast of Petone, landing-place of the first white +settlers, eventually passing through extensive suburbs and coming to a +standstill in the station of Wellington. Here the reception was a climax +to the demonstrations along the journey from Auckland. Mayor Luke, +supported by the city councillors, in ermine and gold chains, received +the Prince, as he alighted from the train. Mr. Massey, and other members +of the Dominion Government, were waiting at the entrance. Outside, one +of the smartest captain's guards-of-honour imaginable was standing to +attention, with band and colours. Beyond, restrained by a rope barrier, +an enormous crowd cheered and cheered. The eye travelled over the heads +of the nearer people, and then further away, and there was no thinning +off. One then began to realize that one was looking up a broad street +which climbed a hill, and that the entire hill was a palpitating mass of +shouting humanity, dimly seen in the half-light of the illuminations. + +Eventually the Royal procession got off in motor-cars, which took an +hour to traverse the two miles of decorated route to Government House, +where the Prince was to stay, so dense was the crowd along the route, so +anxious were the people to get near him. There was no bad crushing, +however, and nothing could exceed the good temper of the shouting, +flag-flapping, clapping, laughing men, women and children, who pressed +upon the motor-cars, formed a solid mass to the walls of substantial +business houses on either hand, and crowded every window, balcony and +roof commanding a view from above. + +Similar scenes marked subsequent days of the Prince's visit to +Wellington. Proceeding to Parliament buildings on the morning after he +arrived, the pressure along the route was extraordinary. The town hall, +where addresses were presented, on the way, was filled by all the most +distinguished people of the country. The platform was occupied by the +Members of the Legislature, headed by the Prime Minister, and including +the Leader of the Opposition, the Mayors of the principal cities, and +other representatives from all parts of New Zealand. + +Proposing the Prince's health, at the official luncheon later in the +day, Mr. Massey, speaking in his capacity of Prime Minister, said +everybody in New Zealand took personal happiness and satisfaction in the +magnificent reception the Prince had had at all the centres in the North +Island. "And I want to tell him," he continued, "that his experiences in +the North Island will be repeated in the South." + +One of the expeditions made from Wellington was across the harbour to +Petone, where a well-staged pageant was held representing the landing of +Captain Cook and his fellow adventurers from the barque _Endeavour_ in +1779, also that of the Reverend Samuel Marsden and other missionaries +from the merchant-ship _Tory_ thirty-five years later. Naked warriors in +war-canoes escorted each of the boat processions to the beach, and +painted Maori chiefs received the white strangers hospitably on the +sandy shore. + +The occasion of the pageant was taken with happy appropriateness to +present the Prince with samples of the finished product of the great +industry with which the descendants of the early settlers have endowed +New Zealand. The articles selected were rugs of beautiful softness and +delightful warmth, made of wool grown in the interior, and carded, spun, +dyed, and woven in mills close to the beach where the original +missionaries landed. "A field which the Lord hath blessed" in every +sense of the term. + +Petone is the parent of the capital city of Wellington where the +Governor, Legislative Council and elected House of Representatives +together make up the "General Assembly" which governs New Zealand. + + + + +X + +SOUTH ISLAND + + +The still, crisp, autumn morning of the 22nd of May brought the _Renown_ +into the silver inland sea of Charlotte Sound, with sunny hills sloping +to the water's edge on either side--a great grey bird she looked, +reflected in a jade-framed mirror. Rounding a steep guarding islet, the +big ship anchored in view of the inner harbour, the pleasant little +red-roofed whaling station of Picton climbing up the slope at the +further end, the houses gay with familiar flowers, and homely with +pecking fowls, amenities which one does not associate with the wild work +of the whaler. The industry as a matter of fact has declined from the +status of its early days, though last year the blubber of forty-eight +"humpbacks" was brought into port. + +The entire population--typical British folk of any country town in +England--had assembled and gave the Prince a rousing welcome with the +usual address. From Picton the route was by train through a rich +pastoral plain, past Tuamarina, scene of a long-past tragedy in New +Zealand history, where a misunderstanding resulted in whites being +massacred by their Maori neighbours, one of those lamentable episodes +which the now united Dominion is advisedly engaged in forgetting. + +At Blenheim, a prosperous township, eighteen miles from Picton, which +was the next stopping-place, the train was exchanged for motors, and a +visit was paid to the local racecourse, where the inhabitants of the +town of Blenheim and most of the surrounding country had come together. +Amongst them was a fine gathering of returned sailors, soldiers and +cadets, also some fifty Maoris with painted faces, dressed in +feather-covered mats, who gave one of their grave, shouting, stamping, +grimacing national _hakas_ in honour of the Royal guest. + +From Blenheim the party started on a seventy-mile motor-drive to Nelson, +an expedition enlivened by similar scenes, though the solemn gaieties of +the Maoris did not occur again. The road, which was of macadam in +excellent repair, ran first through the green, open valley of the +Pelorus river, the fields dotted with sheep, with many a row of tall +poplar trees, yellowing in the still autumn air. Wooded hills closed in, +on either side, as the cars progressed, until we found ourselves +speeding along a winding, unfenced shelf on the side of a precipice, +primeval forest covering the sides of the gorge, to which the procession +clung, like a string of flies to a window-pane, as it swung round +corners, often with a wall of rock on one side and a sheer drop of +hundreds of feet upon the other, a few inches of macadamized shelf all +that interposed between the outer wheels and eternity. + +The driver of the Prince's car, a grey-headed Anglo-Saxon, was descended +from men who had driven mail coaches along this road seventy years ago, +when the route was anything but the tourist trip it has become to-day. +The Prince was shown corner after corner where early settlers and their +vehicles had gone over the edge, to be gathered together at the bottom +in an advanced state of disunion. He heard also the oft-told tale of the +Maungatapu highwaymen, white desperadoes, who once made these Rai and +Wangamoa hills their home, until they were rounded up and hanged by +indignant gold-miners and settlers for iniquities which included the +murdering of a wayfarer, after stripping him of his purse, though all +that it contained was a solitary shilling. No allowance seemed to have +been made by his avengers for a certain natural disappointment. From the +Rai and Wangamoa highlands the road led downwards, through a gradually +flattening land of apple-trees, still laden with masses of enormous +yellow and red fruit, past hundreds of acres of bare poles, where hops +had recently been reaped, amongst fields of peach trees set in ordered +ranks, through villages of red-roofed, verandahed wooden houses, where +well-dressed women and extraordinarily chubby and sunburnt children +strewed the chrysanthemums of autumn as the Prince went by. The white +macadam of the country ultimately gave place to the dark asphalt of the +town. Tram-lines appeared in the track, and the procession found itself +amongst hurrahing crowds in Nelson city. + +Nelson is built round a central hill. Driving up the main street, the +Prince was in a lane of people, a waving mass of union jacks extending +up the business street on either side, while in front was a natural +grand-stand surmounted by the Gothic windows of a pink, wooden structure +which rose out of the top of a variegated pyramid and was the +Cathedral. It looked as if balanced upon a hunched-up, gaily-coloured +Paisley shawl. As we approached, the base resolved itself into +school-children in white, soldiers and cadets in khaki, with a phalanx +of returned men in their habit as they lived. A grey stone platform, +with steps leading up to it, was occupied by Nelson's officials, one of +whom read an address of welcome. The remainder of the variegated colour +scheme seen from the bottom of the street was due to the costumes of +ladies who stood so close to one another that no peep of the green +background came through. + +Here the Prince performed the usual ceremonies that awaited him. He +inspected guards-of-honour, clasped the hands of returned soldiers and +pinned on their coats decorations won at the front. He also expressed to +the Mayor and the crowd thanks for the reception and for the loyal +sentiments of the address, which would be communicated to His Majesty +the King, as well as hearty appreciation of the wonders of the country, +and of the good service of its people in the war, with sympathy for +those who had been disabled or had lost friends or relations. He +demanded a whole holiday for the school-children, with the immense +approval of the beneficiaries. The National Anthem was played and +everybody went off to dinner. + +On the following and subsequent days very similar experiences were +encountered. The route from Nelson, after leaving the level country +where more receptions were held at wayside townships, was along the +steep rocky upper gorge of the Buller river, a clear stream which flows +in a series of cascades through a narrow winding cleft in the +mountains. The slope on either side is covered with dense forest of +tree ferns and birches, broken by areas where the undergrowth has been +cut down and fired. Quantities of blackened tree-trunks and half-burnt +logs, upon a carpet of newly sprouted grass, told of the conversion of +the impenetrable primeval forest into productive dairying +fields--grass-seed having only to be scattered broadcast over the ashes +after a shower to bring a quick and copious emerald crop. + +The way grass develops in New Zealand is a continual wonder. The winters +are so mild, and the rainfall so abundant, that growth goes on right +through the year. Maturity comes so rapidly that it is said to be quite +a common thing for the farmer to plough up pasture and re-sow it simply +in order to get rid of weeds, a heavy hay-crop being reaped the very +next season. Large areas of permanent, original pasture were also seen, +especially in the Southern Island--tussock grass, which, as its name +suggests, grows in knobby tufts, but is not on that account to be +despised as fodder, enormous numbers of sheep and cattle growing fat +enough to kill for the market without any other nourishment. Turnips are +raised, to help out the grass in the winter months, but this is only on +a comparatively small scale. The greater part of the stock is entirely +grass-fed. Lambing, calving and milking take place in the open, and +steers go straight to the packing establishments, without previously +seeing the inside of a building of any kind. This accounts for the +profits that are being made out of sheep-farming, stock-raising and +dairying in New Zealand, in spite of the enormous prices paid for land +which, in good districts, is now changing hands at figures ranging up to +L170 per acre. + +The Prince learnt, also, in his long drives through the forest, of the +nature of the timber; of the virtues of the tawny-foliaged _Rimu_, or +red pine, used for the interiors of houses; of the light, easily worked +_Kahikatea_, or white pine, for which such large demand has sprung up in +New Zealand and Australia for making packing-cases for butter, that +fears are felt lest forests, hitherto considered inexhaustible, should +become worked out; also of the _Matai_, or silver pine, which seems to +last for ever, even when exposed on such hard service as that of railway +sleepers, without any creosoting or other artificial protection. + +About noon, the cars emerged upon an open valley, and the Prince was +given a public reception at Murchison, a village of wooden houses, which +were found in holiday array, the decorations including masses of holly +in the fullest Christmas glory of ripe scarlet berries, a curious +contemporary of the orchards, still loaded with unpicked apples, that we +had seen in the Nelson valley only a few hours before. In the Murchison +district alluvial gold-washing still goes on, but it is only a small +survival of what once was a flourishing industry, the yellow metal that +filled the west coast with diggers, fifty years ago, having almost +entirely given out. + +Beyond Murchison, the gorges again contracted. The river became a white +torrent, rushing through a dark, winding channel, hedged with big, grey +rocks, above which rose sage-green, forested mountains. About six in the +evening we emerged on the Inangahua--"mother of whitebait"--tributary. +Here the valley widened out, and we saw a wonderful west-coast sunset. +The mountains took on vivid aquamarine blue and imperial purple, shading +into palest pink, as they faced towards the light or away from it. +Against this background, yellow-frosted poplars and scarlet-leaved wild +cherries stood out in sharpest contrast, the whole, with a pearly sky, +producing an effect of exquisite fantasy. A soft brown owl, fluttering +into our staring faces, recalled the fact that night had come, and that +shelter was still far off. + +The Prince traversed the Inangahua marshes in the dark, reaching the +west-coast township of Reefton late at night. The streets, nevertheless, +were thronged with people. Illuminations and fireworks were in full +swing, and His Royal Highness had a reception in no way inferior to his +daylight greetings elsewhere. At Reefton he was in Westland of the warm +heart, the Wales of New Zealand, a land of collieries, lumbering, +gold-mining, and fishing, home of the late Richard Seddon, whose +eloquence did so much, in the long years of his Prime Ministership, to +bind New Zealand in that close alliance with Great Britain which bore +such gallant fruit when the great call came. + +With Reefton I should class Inangahua, Greymouth, Westport, and last, +but most important of them all, Hokitika, head-quarters of the province, +which is represented in the New Zealand Government by Mr. Thomas Seddon, +son of the late Prime Minister, and one of the first members of +Parliament to volunteer for active service when the war began. In all of +these centres the Prince was most warmly received, Hokitika particularly +distinguishing itself by the size of its gatherings, and the good taste +bestowed on the decorations of its streets. + +The Prince's journey from Reefton to Westport was by motor through the +lower gorges of the Buller river, where the scenery was again +magnificent. Much of the route was along a narrow winding shelf, a +precipice dropping to the water beneath, while above the rocks overhung +the road, sometimes, as at a spot appropriately named the Devil's Eye, +to the extent of completely over-arching. The steep mountain-sides +around were covered with dense vegetation, gaunt Rimu trees smothered in +the embrace of flame-flowered Rata vines, and green lance-leaved +_kiakia_ creepers, with a thick undergrowth of tree-ferns standing erect +like pirouetting dancers in stiff green skirts and long black legs, +amongst a lesser crowd of gorse and bracken. The silence of the gorge +was broken only by the ripple of water and the sweet flute-notes of grey +Tui birds, a delicate contrast with the clangour of the church bells, +rung in honour of the Prince's visit, when the procession of motor-cars +emerged upon the open coast, and reached the mining township of +Westport. Here the reception was on the level, within sight of an +inclined road down which is brought what claims to be the best admiralty +coal in the world. This coal is mined high up in the hills above +Westport, and was burnt upon H.M.S. _Calliope_ when she thrilled the +world by beating out of the hurricane off Samoa in 1899. The Prince +returned in the evening to Hokitika. In an open square in this city next +morning, where the snows of Mount Cook shone out on the horizon, he was +presented with a digger's leather bag containing nuggets of west-coast +gold. + +[Illustration: WESTPORT CHILDREN: A TUMULT OF FLAGS AND FLOWERS] + +[Illustration: DUNEDIN'S WELCOME] + +From Hokitika the route was by train, via the labour-controlled township +of Greymouth, and up the fine Brunner valley, passing a number of +winding-shafts of mines producing good steam-coal, where miners were +making L2 5_s_. daily, and more of them were urgently needed. In the +afternoon Otira was reached, where New Zealand's longest railway tunnel, +which when finished will complete the hitherto broken connexion across +the island, was in active course of construction. Here the Prince left +the railway and travelled partly by a four-horsed coach, and partly on +foot, amidst heights and glaciers, over the magnificent Arthur's pass, +which overlies the tunnel, itself two thousand feet above sea level. The +tunnel is one of the big engineering achievements of the century. It is +five and a quarter miles long, and has been so accurately laid out that +when, a few months since, the excavations from the two ends met in the +middle, they were out only by three-quarters of an inch in alignment and +one and a half inches in level, a minuteness of error of which Mr. +Holmes, Engineer-in-Chief, and his technical staff may rightly be proud. + +Cheers, every few minutes, from people it was too dark to see, broke in +upon the rattle of the Royal train speeding to reach Christchurch by +dinner-time. Jolts at intervals informed us that we were crossing +sidings in the suburbs of a considerable city. Presently light shone +into the windows from outside, and we came to a standstill in a railway +station that might have been that of Oxford. Upon a red carpet, +stretched from the entrance to where the Prince's saloon drew up, was +standing Mayor Thacker, with ermine, chain and cocked hat, also members +of the corporation, waiting to welcome the Royal guest. By the time one +could get through the throng upon the platform from the front of the +train, the Prince, who was in the rear where a lane had been kept, was +inspecting a captain's guard of men and colours in the presence of the +dense, cheering crowd that pressed on the rope-barriers. A procession +followed, through two miles of decorated, illuminated, cheering, +flag-waving streets, the route kept with difficulty by police and +territorials. The cars soon separated from one another in the press. +Those who were towards the tail of the procession lost sight of the +Prince. Small boys waved paper flags in their faces, and had to be +discouraged from climbing on the radiator. Larrikins decided that one +correspondent was the Prince's doctor and christened him "Pills." +Another, the substantial representative of the "Daily Telegraph," was +found to resemble Mr. Massey, and was cheered as "Bill." Presently the +procession came to a standstill altogether, the crowd being squeezed +tight up all round, in front, as well as on the steps and mud-guards. +Horn-tooting and endeavours to move forward an inch at a time, coupled +with the vigorous assistance of the police, gradually got us on the move +again, and amid a din of laughing and cheering we saw the Prince being +got out of his car and carried into the club where he was to stay, to +reappear a few moments later on the balcony and wave acknowledgments to +the people, by this time squeezed solid once more. + +Similar scenes occurred on the following day, the same cheerful, +friendly, British crowd assembling in the streets and blocking the wide +Latimer Square, where the Prince received a number of formal addresses, +inspected a fine body of boy-scouts, and was serenaded, first in Welsh, +and afterwards in Gaelic, by groups of nice-looking girls in the +quaintness of chimney-pot hats and kilts. Proceeding afterwards to +Hagley park, the Prince reviewed some four thousand territorials, and +shook hands with two thousand returned men. Later in the evening he held +an informal levee at the civic hall, where he shook hands with another +two thousand people. By this time, if there is a scientific way of +accomplishing the gesture of friendship, His Royal Highness had probably +learned it. + +Christchurch is the third biggest city of New Zealand. A larger +proportion of the inhabitants is said to be of English extraction than +in any other city of the world outside the British islands. Certainly it +is one of the most home-like places we saw upon the tour with its +well-paved, well-lighted streets, fine business quarter, and pleasant +residential suburbs full of comfortable houses, each standing in its own +grounds. In Christchurch clear water courses down the gutter on one side +of many of the streets. This is from subterranean springs, tapped by +artesian borings, by means of which the entire city is supplied. The +water is supposed to be derived from the snows of the southern New +Zealand Alps as they soak into the valley of the Waimakariri--"freezing +water"--river which flows into the Canterbury plain. + +A fine harbour, with water so deep that even the _Renown_ was able to +lie alongside the wharf, exists eight miles off, at Lyttleton. Until one +goes over the ground it seems strange that a large city should have been +built so far away as eight miles from the harbour connected with it. The +lie of the hills explains this however. The harbour of Lyttleton is so +hedged in by steep slopes that it has been considered impossible to +build a city around it, and Christchurch occupies the nearest level +ground across the range. Connexion is facilitated by a mile-long +railway tunnel, one of the oldest undertakings of its kind in New +Zealand. + +Although so close to the hills, Christchurch stands upon almost +absolutely level ground, a corner indeed of the big Canterbury plain, +_par excellence_ the farming country of the Dominion. The city contains +cold-storage plant, a biscuit factory, and wool and hide establishments, +all of which proved their Imperial value during the war. It also +possesses one of the best high schools in the country, run on the lines +of a British public school. Being also the distributing centre for a +large and flourishing farming community, Christchurch is going ahead +rapidly, and has an excellent future before it, its south-of-England +climate making it a favourite place of residence. + +Farming is not in New Zealand an occupation penalized by the dread of +hardship or burden as one is apt to find it elsewhere, largely because +of the real love the New Zealander has for the land. The Mayor of one of +the larger cities we visited in the Northern Island, himself a +prosperous wholesale grocer, told me that neither of his two sons, when +they returned to New Zealand from France, would look at his business, +though he had kept it going longer than he would otherwise have done, +with the express purpose of handing it on to them, there being no one +else in his family to whom to leave it. They both insisted upon being +set up as farmers. The reason they gave was that farming life was +pleasanter and less exacting than any kind of business, and this +although they had, with farming, to begin all over again, whereas in the +wholesale grocery trade they had a long established and flourishing +concern ready to step into. + +The fifteen-year-old son of a prominent official said to his mother, +who passed on the irreverent observation to me, "Isn't father a loony to +do office work when he might have a farm of his own?" The boy's mind was +typical. I met refined women who said they wouldn't live anywhere in the +world but on a farm, and never once did I come across anyone who was on +the land and wanted to get off it. This attitude of mind has the +qualification that it is sheep and cattle-farming that is referred to, +and not dairy-farming, which is infinitely more exacting, though, at +present prices, and especially since the discovery of the possibilities +of the dried milk-trade, definitely more profitable. This is because the +sheep and cattle-farmer is not continually tied, and, while he has to +work hard at times, can also often get away, whereas the dairy-farmer +must be on hand all the year round, to see that the milking is attended +to, and that the milk is promptly disposed of at the creameries, of +which numbers are springing up, mostly run, upon a co-operative basis, +by groups of farmers themselves. + +This passion of the New Zealander for the land is a trait of the most +far-reaching significance. It accounts for the largeness of the rural, +as opposed to the urban, population in this Dominion. It has much to do, +also, with the splendid physique of the average New Zealander, and the +amazing healthfulness and longevity he appears to enjoy. This applies +especially to the middle classes, amongst whom there is extraordinary +immunity from such city diseases as consumption. The death-rate from +tuberculosis of New Zealand is less than half that of England and Wales. +It affects also the whole political outlook of the Dominion. The farmer +everywhere tends to be conservative in his views, for he has a stake in +the country. His farm may be small or large. The individual holding, on +the average, is probably not more than from thirty to eighty acres, an +area which even the most unskilled of labourers may hope, in the end, to +own; and one which, under the favourable agricultural and climatic +conditions prevailing, is sufficient to keep both the man himself and +his family. The number of holdings is therefore rapidly increasing, and +the effect which this has upon the whole political atmosphere is +incalculable. Nominally, the Government of the day may be Conservative +or it may be Liberal, but the voter's choice is one of men, rather than +of policy. Labour itself, as has already been pointed out, has become +conservative. It thus comes about that, in spite of the possession of +both manhood suffrage and womanhood suffrage, there is probably no +country in the world less open to subversive social theories than is New +Zealand. + + + + +XI + +ENTERPRISE IN NEW ZEALAND + + +It is impossible to travel through New Zealand and to meet the men it +sends into public life, without being impressed by the high character, +moderation and conservativeness which characterize politics in this +Dominion. + +There is no country where the spirit of live and let live is more fully +operative, none where charges of political corruption are less common, +and none where the spirit of co-operation for public ends is more +general. The "ins" at present call themselves Reformers, he "outs" +Liberals, but, so far as I have been able to make out, Mr. Massey's +Government retains its majority far more on account of the popularity of +himself and his colleagues than because the general policy for which +they stand differs very materially from that which would be adopted if +Sir Joseph Ward and his Liberal supporters were to return to power. In +consequence, again, of practically all voters having a stake in the +country, of one kind or another, whether in the form of house-property, +land or money, the administration they elect is intensely +individualistic, and probably there is no spot on earth where property +is more respected, or personal rights more secure. + +The financial position of the Dominion is also relatively good, for +although New Zealand's public debt bears a proportion to its population +not far different from the corresponding proportion in England, there +are two factors which make the situation of the Dominion definitely more +favourable. One of these is the larger potential margin of taxability in +New Zealand, owing to the greater individual prosperity of its +inhabitants and the extent of its still undeveloped resources. The other +is that so much of New Zealand's public debt has been invested in +remunerative public works. Out of a total debt of L194,000,000 no less +than L40,000,000 has been put into the acquisition or construction of +the three thousand five hundred miles of railway existing in the +country, an investment which itself pays the whole of the interest +charges concerned. Indeed, at present rates for labour and materials, +this happy country possesses a property worth probably more than twice +what it has cost to obtain. + +The railway factor in New Zealand is thus a very important one. It is +one also of special interest, as the New Zealand Government not only +owns but manages the whole of the lines, an arrangement not found in +other parts of the world to conduce to either efficiency or economy in +working. It seemed so impossible to believe that a democracy could be +keeping politics out of business that I fear I asked a great many very +impertinent questions on the subject of political graft in connexion +with railways. The map of New Zealand offered an invitation to +inquisitiveness. It showed that the country possesses a remarkably large +number of small unconnected railway lines running inland from the +various ports. Even to-day there is no complete through line in the +South Island, though progress is being made in linking up branches to +obtain it. One was at first inclined to attribute this state of things +to political pressure brought to bear upon the Government to supply +individual political constituents with more than their share of +transport facilities at the expense of the general traffic requirements +of the country. On going over the ground, however, two perfectly +innocent reasons leapt to defend the lines. The first is that in a +country as well supplied as is New Zealand with harbours round the +coasts, the natural main artery of traffic is by sea and not overland. +The second is that the mountain backbone of New Zealand is so tremendous +that the cost of through railways which, owing to the lie of the land, +must necessarily cross this backbone is enormous. This is exemplified by +the stupendous works, culminating in a five-mile tunnel, now under +construction to link the west coast with the east in the South Island. +The same applies to the North Island, it being impossible to traverse +the central railway from Auckland to Wellington without being impressed +by the difficulties that have had to be overcome, alike on the Raurimu +spiral in the middle, and at the famous one-in-thirteen incline near the +southern terminus. + +Mistakes have, no doubt, been made sometimes, and it is quite possible +that in some cases local influence may have bettered public utility, +both in the routes chosen for new lines, and in the order of their +construction. Upon the whole, however, the Public Works Department of +the New Zealand Government, which is responsible for the building of the +railways, is to be most warmly congratulated upon the lay-out as well +as upon the standard of excellence attained in the matter of the work. +The three-feet-six-inch gauge adopted in New Zealand may possibly have +to be changed eventually to the standard four-feet-eight-inch gauge in +use in Europe and America. The decision to adopt the narrow gauge, +however, was come to at a time when there was much to recommend the +selection, since it enabled railway facilities to be afforded very much +sooner than would have been possible had the more expensive standard +gauge been chosen. + +The New Zealand Government has also pursued a sound policy in doing +renovations, even where they have involved considerable structural +improvements, out of revenue. I was informed that original cost has, all +along, been replaced out of working expenses, where changes in the lines +have been made on capital account, and that since about 1907 all +relaying of lines and replacing of bridges and rolling-stock has been +charged to working expenses. Again, a considerable length of line has +been relaid each year, with heavy rails and new sleepers. The people of +New Zealand in consequence now own the entire railway system of their +country at a cost far below its present market value, and that too in a +state of structural efficiency, which, especially after five years of a +war to which the railways sent seven thousand of their trained men, is +very remarkable. The Royal train could testify to that, running as it +did over difficult country, from one end of New Zealand to the other, at +a pace which was seldom less than forty, and sometimes went as high as +sixty miles an hour, fast travelling on a narrow gauge anywhere. + +The railways are under a general manager responsible to a +minister-in-charge, at present the Prime Minister, and independent of +the Public Works Department, whose responsibilities end with +construction. In order to minimize political interference with traffic +charges, a rule is enforced that all rates must be published, thereby +facilitating discussion of them. No special local tariff also can be +sanctioned without public notice being first given. All rates are thus +subject to criticism in Parliament. Again, at present, ninety per cent. +of the traffic of the country, including both passengers and goods, is +carried on a flat-rate basis applicable to all lines, and all places. Of +the remaining ten per cent., all but a small proportion is carried on +concession rates designed to help the development of backward areas, it +being recognized that the railways are only adjuncts to the opening up +of the country and its resources. The fractional proportion which +remains is carried at special enhanced rates, but this does not affect +the general position, as it applies only to a few isolated sections of +not more than twenty miles apiece, where construction has been unusually +expensive, and where high rates have been adopted to cover interest on +the cost. + +A further safeguard is provided by the fact that a rate can only be +changed on the recommendation of the general manager, who is a member of +the public service, and therefore debarred from taking part in politics. + +Very much the same safeguards apply to the appointments. The personnel +of the railways in New Zealand is permanent, no new Government having so +far ventured to make any wholesale changes. The great majority of the +men now in the service have begun at the bottom, either as unskilled +apprentices or as cadets admitted after passing a qualifying +examination. I was unable to hear of either promotions or fresh +appointments for political reasons. + +That the above are real, and not merely theoretical conditions, is +strikingly shown by the financial results obtained. The dominant fact is +that, whereas in the United States and in England, Government control of +railways has been accompanied by heavy loss during the war, in New +Zealand the railways have remained on a paying basis throughout, though +the war rise in New Zealand traffic-rates has only been twelve and a +half per cent. in the case of passengers, and twenty-one per cent. in +that of goods, as compared with from fifty to seventy per cent. in the +case of the railways in Great Britain. At the same time the basic wage +for the employees has been increased in New Zealand by thirty-three per +cent., to which eight per cent. has recently been added, making a total +wage rise on New Zealand railways of forty-one per cent. + +As regards the cost of the carriage of goods on New Zealand railways, as +compared with British, the claim is made by the New Zealand railway +authorities that their rates are the lower. I was unable to obtain any +conclusive evidence upon this point, during the short time available, +owing to the difficulty of extracting average figures capable of being +fairly compared. As regards passenger rates, I understand that the +present New Zealand flat-rate is twopence per mile for "upper class" +passengers, and one and one-third pence per mile for "lower class," +rates which certainly compare not unfavourably with those obtaining in +England. + +The gross annual revenue of New Zealand railways is now about five and +three-quarter million sterling per annum. Of this sum two million is +allotted to payment of interest at four per cent. upon the forty million +sterling of capital cost. The balance of three and three-quarter million +goes to working expenses, which before the war averaged sixty-four per +cent. of gross revenue, and are now sixty-six per cent. + +Government goods consignments are carried at full rates, and troops at a +concession rate of one penny per mile return. There is no paper +inflation, therefore, in the figures. + +I have given the above particulars at some length, as the management of +so big a business organization as the entire railway system of the +country is obviously a good criterion of the nature of the political +administration as a whole. + +I may add two further instances of New Zealand methods. The first is +that the Government has embarked upon a seven-million-sterling scheme +for the development of hydro-electric power for industrial purposes, the +country being remarkably provided with facilities for this class of +enterprise. The installations, several of which are already well +advanced, are situated in widely separated localities spread over both +of the islands, so that a large proportion of the country will benefit. +The total power which this scheme is expected ultimately to develop +amounts to something like half a million horse-power. The work was to be +proceeded with as fast as labour, which was very scarce at the time of +the Prince's visit, became available. The second point concerns the +resettlement of returned soldiers upon the land and their restarting in +business. Upon this object the New Zealand Government had expended a +million sterling, of which the bulk consisted of loans on easy terms. +The feature that seems significant of the general situation of New +Zealand, was that practically all the fifty thousand men demobilized had +been found employment, and that the loans were being rapidly repaid, +one-eighth (L117,000) having already been refunded, while less than six +per cent. of the ten thousand men who had received advances were +reported as irregular with their instalments. + +Travelling as the party did from end to end of New Zealand, such +national enterprises as the working of the railways, the development of +hydro-electric power and the restarting of the men returned from the +war, were often discussed. The considerations which emerged are +certainly encouraging, not only from the point of view of those already +settled in the Dominion, but also to that wider community throughout the +Empire that looks to Australasia as a future home. + +The Prince left Christchurch by train on the morning of the 17th May, on +his journey to the southern end of the South Island and passed once more +through the Canterbury plain, a well-watered land of pleasant homesteads +and wide flat fields just then white with stubble from a recently reaped +wheat crop. His first stopping-place was the thriving town of Ashburton, +where an address of welcome was read by Major Galbraith, at one time one +of the best football players in New Zealand. In the course of his reply +His Royal Highness mentioned that he was a farmer in a small way +himself, which made him specially interested in the splendid farming +country through which he had been passing. The Prince's colonial farm is +in Alberta; he added it to the trophies of his Canadian tour in 1919. He +has already stocked and improved it and there is not a Canadian from +Halifax to Vancouver who does not look confidently to this holding to +bring him back there at an early date. Temuka, famed for its +trout-fishing, and Timaru, a rising watering-place, came next upon his +itinerary. Timaru is a port for the shipment of chilled meat, in +connexion with which several substantial cold-storage works could be +seen from the train. In this centre the Prince was given a picturesque +reception on the wide sands of Charlotte Bay, a popular bathing-resort +in the summer months. The cliffs here form an amphitheatre from which +twenty thousand people, including two thousand children from the schools +around, witnessed the usual reading of a civic address, and march past +of returned soldiers, red cross nurses, and other war workers. In the +afternoon the train traversed a fine bridge over the Waitaki river, +which is here the dividing line between the Scotch settlers of Otago and +the English of Canterbury. The Prince also stopped off at Oamaru, and +inspected a collegiate school, one of the foremost in New Zealand, where +an exceedingly smart cadet corps paraded before him, and he was +conducted by the headmaster, Doctor F. Milner, over buildings and +grounds comparable to those of a first-class public school in England. +One of the features of the institution was unenclosed dormitories, in +which the lads sleep out of doors, in all weathers, with wonderfully +beneficial results to their health and endurance. + +Dusk fell when the train was some twenty miles from Dunedin, the +Edinburgh of New Zealand, but the sky was lighted throughout the whole +of this distance by enormous bonfires, every village and every homestead +along the line competing as to which could make the biggest flare +against the forest and hills behind. Around these bonfires the local +inhabitants had assembled and cheered the Prince as the train ran +through. The night was alive with enthusiasm. Little old weary England, +at anchor far in her North sea, might have been glad to feel it. + +Port Chalmers, the Rosyth of Dunedin, was a wonderful sight. Coloured +flares were simultaneously lighted in all parts of the town, as the +train passed along the top of the cliffs. The harbour was thus shown up +like an inland lake, in a setting of hills, against which houses, +shipping and docks stood out in brilliant relief. + +At Dunedin the train climbed down into a fairyland of electric +illuminations, beginning at the railway station, where Mayor Begg and +the members of the civic council were assembled. A procession in cars, +through Princes Street and Stuart Street, to the Dunedin Club, where +quarters had been arranged for the Prince, showed him half a mile of +decorated, illuminated route, kept in absolute order by boy-scouts, +cadets and school-children, though every one of Dunedin's sixty thousand +inhabitants appeared to be participating in an orgy of cheering, +flag-waving and flower throwing behind this slender barrier. + +On the following day His Royal Highness attended an open-air reception, +in the presence of an immense gathering in the city octagon, beneath the +cathedral, the steps of which were occupied by a big chorus of girls +from secondary schools. Here he received nine addresses of welcome. In +replying, he told Dunedin that the part she played in the life of New +Zealand was fully worthy of the noble traditions which her pioneers +brought from the schools and colleges of the Old Country. Later on the +Prince visited the hospital, whence he drove over the heights +overlooking the shore, and down a steep winding track to Port Chalmers, +where, amidst more decorations and cheering crowds, the Harbour Board +and Local Borough Council presented addresses. + +On another day, in the presence of twenty thousand people, grouped +amongst green olearia bushes on grassy sandhills by the bay, the Prince +inspected seven thousand children representing two hundred and fifty +schools. A pretty incident occurred in the march past when the wide +ranks of the children opened, and a score of white-clad, +black-stockinged maidens trooped up and curtsyed before the Prince to +the strains of the March of Athol played by a drum and fife band in +Gordon plaids. The biggest and the littlest girl in the deputation then +stepped forward and presented the Royal visitor with a tiny greenstone +memento, purchased for him by the school-children themselves. A further +event of the visit of Dunedin was a march past by lamplight in the drill +hall. Five thousand tickets to this ceremony were issued to returned +men, each of whom came accompanied by relations or friends, so the +numbers present must have been considerable. + +From Dunedin the Prince went by train to Invercargill, the fifth city of +New Zealand. On the way he passed, in a snow-storm, the woollen mills of +Mosgiel, also the Mount Wallace and Kaitangata coal-mines. Receptions +were given in the towns of Balclutha, an active farming centre; Gore, +the head-quarters of flourishing flour-mills, and Mataura, the location +of hydro-electric works, paper-mills and cold-storage plant. +Invercargill was reached in cold wind and rain, yet the whole population +was found assembled in the streets. From the station the route led to +the racecourse, where in the presence of an immense gathering, +undismayed by the weather which had turned the whole place into a +quagmire, addresses were presented from the city of Invercargill and +from the Southland County. In the course of his reply the Prince +referred to Invercargill as being the last stopping-place on his New +Zealand tour, and added that fate would be unkind if it prevented his +renewing his recent experiences at some future time. + +The return journey of four hundred miles by train to Lyttleton, where +His Royal Highness re-embarked upon the _Renown_ for Australia, was done +in record time. The Earl of Liverpool, Governor-General; Mr. Massey, +Prime Minister, and Mr. MacDonald, Leader of the Opposition, travelled +to Lyttleton to say good-bye. The Prince gave a farewell dinner on the +_Renown_, at which he conferred Knight-Commanderships of the Victorian +Order upon Sir William Fraser, and Sir Edward Chaytor, who had +accompanied him throughout the New Zealand tour. Junior rank in the same +Order was conferred upon Lt.-Colonel Sleeman, Director of Military +Training; Mr. Gavin Hamilton, of the Governor-General's staff; Mr. James +Hislop, Under-Secretary for Internal Affairs; Mr. R. W. McVilly, General +Manager of Railways; Mr. O'Donovan, Chief of Police, and Mr. Tahu +Rhodes, of the Governor-General's staff--all of whom had been actively +connected with the tour. + +The Prince at the same time handed to Mr. Massey, for publication +throughout New Zealand, a farewell message, in which he expressed his +thanks to the Government and people of the Dominion for the splendid +reception given to him. The message continued: "Two things particularly +impressed me. New Zealand is a land not merely of opportunity for some +but for all. I have never seen such well-being and happiness so +uniformly evident throughout the population of country and town alike. +This Dominion is also a living example of the fact that a European race +may take over a new country without injustice to the original +inhabitants, and that both may advance in mutual confidence and +understanding along a common path. New Zealand is one of the greatest +monuments to British civilization in the world, and I have felt, from +end to end of the Dominion, that there is nowhere a British people more +set in British traditions or more true to British ideals. I have found +the strength of your loyalty to the Empire and its sovereign as keen and +bracing as mountain air, and I know you will never weaken in your +devotion to British unity and British ideals." + +In conclusion the Prince referred to the journeys still to be taken +before he could say he had seen the British Empire as a whole, adding +that he still hoped to pay New Zealand another visit some day, a hope +cordially echoed by both press and people throughout the Dominion. + + + + +XII + +VICTORIA + + +The voyage from Lyttleton to Melbourne was rough but uneventful. The +_Renown_ did the 1,651 miles in three days, and very uncomfortable days +they were. She carried a new passenger in the fine bulldog presented to +the ward-room mess by the Mayor of Gisborne, but it languished so +grievously that it had to find a new home in the Commonwealth. It had +joined the Navy too late in life. + +The Prince had his first view of Australia by moonlight. The sea had +then gone down and mist hung in the narrow strait as the _Renown_ passed +between the dark shadowy hills of Wilson's promontory and the grey +rounded cone of Rodondo Island. The following morning, however, found +the _Renown_ still outside the confined entrance to Port Phillip, +enveloped in a clinging fog, that shut out everything from view. The +tide was then high, so the ten-knot current, that rushes through the +entrance when the water is low, had subsided, but this favourable +condition could not be taken advantage of to bring in the _Renown_ as +neither buoys nor lights could be seen. Impatiently the ship's company +waited for the fog to clear, but hour after hour went by and it seemed +to grow only denser. Tired navigating officers, in sopping overalls, +descended gloomily from the bridge, and it was realized that there would +be no crossing the bar that tide. The wireless meanwhile had crackled a +message through to the Australian fleet, lying within Port Phillip, +asking destroyers to come out and fetch the Prince, so that he might not +disappoint the enormous crowds waiting in the streets of Melbourne to +welcome him. The destroyers had forty miles of intricate navigation to +negotiate, but were speedily in the neighbourhood. The _Renown_ +meanwhile had been carried by the currents out of her original position, +but the firing of guns and the tooting of syrens eventually discovered +her. That fine boat H.M.A.S. _Anzac_, recently attached to the +Australian Navy, came smartly alongside, and took off the entire party. +Steaming at twenty-eight knots, with a following wave so high as nearly +to conceal the accompanying destroyers from the _Anzac's_ quarter-deck, +soon brought her through the Heads, in spite of the ten-knot tide then +running full against her. The fog thinned off, and showed the _Anzac_ in +still autumn sunshine, pushing through a misty expanse of grey +landlocked bays. Yellow sandy hills, dotted with soft-toned buildings, +receded on either side as she advanced and the bay widened out, to +reappear later on as she approached Melbourne harbour, which first +presented itself as a forest of gaunt black cranes, with a background of +roofs and chimneys emerging mistily from a low foreshore. + +The destroyer was cheered again and again, as she approached amongst +launches and steamers crammed with holiday-makers out to see the Prince. +She made fast to a red-carpeted wharf, in front of goods sheds flaming +with decorations, where waited a smartly turned out naval +guard-of-honour, and all the port authorities in full dress. Greetings +and salutes accomplished, the party transhipped to a shallow-draft +steamer--the _Hygeia_--which carried the Prince to the St. Kilda pier, +in front of the residential quarter, through a fleet of yachts and +launches filled with cheering people. + +On the pier four figures stood out prominently--the Governor-General, +the Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, the Lieutenant-Governor of +Victoria, and the Premier of Victoria. Behind them were staffs in +uniform, scores of dignitaries in top-hats and frock-coats, and a +guard-of-honour in khaki. Long lines of marines and sailors kept a lane +down the pier, and out into the crowd beyond. The Prince landed, and +shook hands with the Governor-General and the Prime Minister, who +afterwards presented to him the Premiers of New South Wales, Queensland, +South Australia, Western Australia, and Tasmania, besides numerous +members of their respective Governments, most of whom had travelled long +distances to attend. The civic address gone through, a procession was +formed, the Prince, the Governor-General, the Prime Minister, and other +bigger officials in barouches, the rest of the party following in motors +behind. The mounted escorts included a fine squadron of police on grey +horses, each of which was a picture. The procession traversed eight +miles of wide, well-kept streets, with swarms of well-dressed, +well-nourished people, applauding, laughing and chaffing on either side. +The crowds were enormous. The streets were crammed. Thousands were +accommodated upon stands against the sides of the buildings. Every +balcony, window, roof, and parapet, whence, in any way, a glimpse could +be caught of the procession, was filled with people. Commonwealth +troops, cadets in khaki, and police in black uniform, though stationed +only sparsely along the line, maintained excellent order. The crowds +were as full of good-humour as could be, despite having been kept +waiting by the fog for more than an hour after the advertised time. A +wave of clapping and cheering went down the street alongside the Prince, +and tailed off into chaff and criticism, at the expense of Mr. Hughes +and other members of the Government, at the end of the procession. The +cheering grew stronger as the business quarter of Melbourne was reached, +and the procession passed through its spacious thoroughfares. "Generous" +seemed to be the adjective most appropriate alike to the broad outlines +of the architecture, for Melbourne despises sky-scrapers, to the width +and dignity of the well-paved streets, and to the profusion of costly +motor-cars and horses seen on the way. Those who accompanied the party +were soon to discover for themselves that it applies equally to the +quick-witted, outspoken, hospitable, kindly people of Melbourne. + +The following day was a busy one for the Prince. It began with a levee +at Government House, where he invested a number of returned officers and +men with decorations won at the front. The reception of a score of +addresses came next and the replying to the more important of them, +including those from both Houses of the Commonwealth Legislature. The +functions finished with a banquet at Parliament Buildings, at which the +Right Honourable Mr. Hughes proposed the Prince's health. The toast was +seconded, in the warmest terms, by Mr. Frank Tudor, Leader of the +Opposition. The keynote of the occasion was sounded by Mr. Hughes when +he said to his guest: "The people of Australia see in you the things in +which they believe." + +There followed a bewildering week in which the Prince was carried from +one public function to another, through extraordinary masses of people, +composed largely of women and children, but also comprising a very +considerable number of men, who waited in the streets for hours at a +time, sometimes in chill wind, fog or rain, on the chance of catching a +glimpse of the Royal visitor. Many of them, when he appeared, made such +efforts to approach and shake him by the hand, that the police had +difficulty in getting his car through. His progress was so delayed in +many cases that it became almost impossible for him to fulfil +engagements at the hour appointed, in spite of the most liberal +allowance of time for delays upon the road. Eventually appeals were made +through the press for some abatement of this personal demonstration. The +police arranged for a wider lane to be kept for his car, and the +difficulty gradually disappeared. The Melbourne newspapers, meanwhile, +day after day, made the Prince's visit their almost exclusive business. +The smallest details of his doings were chronicled with minuteness, and +long poems and articles about him were published. Photographs, in every +attitude and at every function, appeared prominently amongst the news of +the day. The Prince was "featured" inexhaustibly. Scenes of enthusiasm +also characterized the Naval Review, where every fighting ship belonging +to the Commonwealth of Australia was paraded. A special agricultural +show was held to which landholders from distant parts of Victoria sent +breeding stock so valuable that no previous exhibition had been able to +attract it. A public reception was given in the exhibition buildings, +where people stood from eleven in the morning to four in the afternoon +to secure front places. An entertainment was organized at the +cricket-ground where ten thousand school-children went through +marvellously trained evolutions, and fifty thousand spectators cheered +when the Prince appeared. + +When one asked folk in the street what they thought of him, enthusiasm +found various expressions, but it was always enthusiasm. I have heard a +stout, middle-aged and presumably sane gentleman in the smoking-room of +a Melbourne hotel declare in the most bellicose tone to all and sundry +that he would like to fight for him. I never heard a word of criticism. +Certainly Melbourne, and all the great interests it represents, took the +Prince to a generous heart. + +From Melbourne His Royal Highness made a two-days' trip by train into +the rich districts of Western Victoria, through the Werribee Plain, +where land fetches up to L60 per acre. Stone-walled fields of oats just +rising above ground, with pleasant farm-houses amidst sparse white +gum-trees, spread on either side of the track. Low, blue hills bounded +the view. Country folk waved greetings from many homesteads, as the +train sped onward. The first stopping-place was Geelong, on the +sheltered coast of Port Phillip, once a rival to Melbourne for the +honour of being the capital of Victoria, now a marine base, and +prosperous shire town. It is known throughout Australia as the home of +the doctrine of the one man vote, and eight-hour day, first promulgated +in the 'seventies, by Sir Graham Berry, who represented Geelong in the +Commonwealth Legislature. Here the Prince found himself in the midst of +an agricultural, manufacturing and shipping community. The +guard-of-honour was composed of naval cadets. He was shown thousands of +bales of finest merino wool from mills which not only clean and sort it, +but also, upon a smaller scale, manufacture it into blankets and cloth. +Pupils were presented to him from Geelong's famous grammar school, which +draws its students from all parts of Australia, and had a larger +proportion of casualties, in the great war, than any other educational +institution outside the British islands. Here also he visited a big +wool-shed, that of Messrs. Dennys Lascelles Ltd., with a ferro-concrete +roof weighing two thousand tons, so large that the sales-room it +shelters covers an acre of floor, yet there is not a single pillar in +support, the necessary stiffness being given by means of reinforced +girders, built upon cantilever principles, above the roof. The streets +were crowded with people, and the Prince had a very fine reception alike +at the reading of the municipal address, and at the functions of shaking +hands with returned soldiers, and inspecting school-children. A large +number of schools from townships in the interior were represented, each +with one pupil elected by its fellows to shake hands with the Prince. +The selected mites stood shyly out, in front of the lines of scholars, +as the Prince went by to honour the promise given. + +From Geelong the Prince went on to Colac, shire centre of one of the +richest districts in Victoria. Here he was shown what claims to be the +second largest dairying factory in the Commonwealth. It is run on +co-operative lines, and makes, in addition to such products as butter +and cheese, large quantities of dried milk, a comparatively new +preparation, for which increasing demand is springing up in all parts of +the world. It is an enterprise to which all may wish good luck, as a +long step toward solving the important problem of rendering milk easily +transportable, without loss of essential properties. + +In entering, and again in leaving Colac, the train passed quite close to +a number of low conical hills and circular lakes, remains of +comparatively recent volcanic action, which has given the soil over a +wide area properties that enable it to grow Spanish onions in +extraordinary profusion. In a favourable season, fabulous profits are +made out of this crop. One man, with twenty acres, in one year cleared +L1,800, of which L1,200 was net profit, after paying all cost of +cultivation and harvesting. The Prince also saw some of the outlying +trees of the famous Otway forest, home of the blue gum and blackwood +timber used not only in Australia but also in America and Europe for +decorative work. + +In Colac, the streets had been elaborately decorated. Flags covered +alike the stone and reinforced-concrete houses of business, and the +brick and wooden residences. The accommodation of the place had been +supplemented for the Royal visit, by encampments of tents, one large +marquee flaunting the imposing title of the "Cafe de Kerbstone." Choirs, +in Welsh and Scottish costumes, serenaded the procession. There was much +cordial cheering, especially about the shire-hall, where the civic +address was read. + +The next halting-place was Camperdown, another farming centre, where +again a surprisingly large gathering of country folk had assembled to +welcome the Prince. Motor-cars, often of the most expensive British +makes, in which the owners had come from their holdings, stood about in +the streets. The Royal party here transferred to motors, in which the +Prince drove out to the residence of Mr. Stuart Black, one of +Australia's great landholders, descendant of settlers from Tasmania, who +opened up this part of the country some eighty years ago. These settlers +bore many distinguished names, including those of the Gladstone family +and the MacKinnons. + +The following day His Royal Highness went by train to Ballarat, past a +fine stone memorial to members of the neighbourhood who had fallen in +the great war, subscribed for by the residents of the district, and +designed by Mr. Butler, of Sydney. The route lay through undulating +agricultural country, past big heaps of white, pink, or yellow tailings, +which mark the sites of now worked-out gold-mines. Some of the fields +around were pitted with what looked very much like shell-holes, dug by +early prospectors for the gold that made Ballarat famous. The Prince +found the last-named place a prosperous market town, with substantial +public buildings, and quantities of marble statues, dating from the days +of easily made fortunes in the 'seventies. It contains also wool, and +other factories, including that of Messrs. Lucas and Company, for the +production of underclothing, with which the Prince became acquainted +under circumstances worthy of the creditable history of this firm. +During the war, some five hundred girls employed by Messrs. Lucas +conceived the idea of planting an avenue, in which each tree should be +connected with the name of one of Ballarat's large contingent of +fighting men at the front. At the head of this avenue, which is now a +dozen miles in length, a substantial masonry Arch of Victory has been +set up. The Prince opened this arch in the presence of the entire +establishment of the Lucas factory, which presented him with an +embroidered set of underclothing--yellow silk pyjamas, to be exact--in +the making of which every employee of the firm had taken part. + +Rain had been falling heavily, but the girls faced it cheerily at the +head of their avenue, many a tree of which bore the flag that told that +the soldier it commemorated had been killed. The presentation was made +to the Prince by two ladies, one of whom was Mrs. Lucas, the founder of +the firm, which she had started on a very small scale, at a time when +the miners were beginning to desert the Ballarat goldfield, leaving, in +many cases, families behind them. Mrs. Lucas gathered these families +around her, and by a system of profit-sharing, attached them to her +firm, which is now well known throughout Australia. + +This was not the only function at Ballarat. The Prince also received an +address standing out in the rain, on a platform in the main street, in +the midst of a crowd so large that those in the rear could neither hear +nor see very clearly what was going on in front. As the result, both the +reading and the reply to the address were much interrupted, a patriotic +cornet on the outskirts playing "God Bless the Prince of Wales" part of +the time while the Prince himself was speaking. The Prince got hold of +his audience, after two false starts, however, and to such purpose that +the latter part of his speech was listened to with an interest that the +rain, which plastered his hair and flattened out his collar, appeared to +enhance. The cheering at the end was most hearty. The crowd did not +disperse when the speeches were over, but waited in the rain until after +the completion of a further ceremony, which took place inside the town +hall, where the Prince shook hands with numbers of returned men and +nurses. He was again loudly cheered when he came out and got into his +car _en route_ to the train to Melbourne. + +The rain that was so insistent during the visit to Ballarat was of +dramatic importance to the country at large. It broke a long and serious +drought, extending over an enormous area--a drought so severe that we +passed, on the road to Ballarat, way-worn sheep that had been driven +three hundred miles in search of fodder and water. They were browsing, +on their homeward way, on one of the farmer's stock-routes which +traverse Australia from end to end. These cattle-tracks are generously +bordered by pastures fenced off from the surrounding country, so as to +conserve food for flocks and herds in movement. + +Two days later, just three weeks from Australia's mid-winter, the Prince +crossed, by train from Melbourne, the chill slopes of the Great Dividing +Range, which separates the basin of the Murray river, flowing westward +through central Australia, from that of the streams which pour their +waters southwards to the coast. On the way, he received addresses at +Kyneton and Castlemaine, once gold-mining camps, now not less prosperous +dairying and woollen-working centres, the entire countryside turning out +to receive him. Thence the train climbed down to a pleasant plateau on +which stands Bendigo, city of flowers and dry, healthful breezes, and a +centre of large and still exceedingly productive quartz gold-mining. +Enormous heaps of grey "mullick" shale, and yellow and white tailings +here stand amongst beautiful avenues of shady eucalyptus trees, and +substantial buildings of stone and brick. One of the cheeriest civic +luncheons of the tour was a feature of the day--the Mayor toasting the +Royal guest as Duke of Cornwall, Prince of the "Cousin Jacks," to whom +the development of the Bendigo gold industry is so largely due. A +novelty also appeared on the triumphal arches in the streets, which, in +place of wreaths and patriotic texts, carried whole bevies of the +prettiest girls the city could find. These arches had been built in the +form of bridges connecting the porticoes on one side of the street with +those on the other. The girls occupied the middle and dropped flowers as +the Prince passed in his car. + +Intensive small culture is so successful about Bendigo, that we were +told as much as L300 has been made out of an acre of tomatoes in a +single year. Bendigo may thus look forward to a future of agriculture +when her reefs are exhausted. Gold-mining brought her population, but +her fields and gardens will probably keep it. + +Later in the afternoon the Prince, accompanied by the Prime Minister, in +overalls, descended the shaft of one of the gold-mines that amongst them +keep the mints of the country busy turning out sovereigns that bear on +the reverse the effigy of the kangaroo. The Prince thus made the +acquaintance of the gold industry which has played so dramatic a part in +the history of the Commonwealth. The output has been falling off +gradually since 1903 when the value produced was over sixteen million +sterling. It still averages over ten million sterling annually however, +and is likely long to remain a very important source of wealth. + +It was on this expedition that newspaper men accompanying the tour had +their first opportunity of becoming acquainted with a number of +distinguished Australians with whom they were so fortunate thereafter as +to travel extensively. I have already mentioned that the Rt. Hon. Mr. +William Hughes, Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, was one of them, his +outspoken frankness and caustic humour illuminating and diverting long +stretches of the railway journeys. Another member of the Commonwealth +Government, closely associated with the tour, was the Hon. Mr. Pearce, +Minister of Defence, who was supported, whenever the Prince was in naval +ports, by the Hon. Sir Joseph Cook, Minister for the Navy, and +Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Member of the Naval Board, authorities who +were able to afford the Prince first-hand information about the training +and equipment of the forces that have given an account of themselves at +once so memorable and so recent. Major-General Sir Brudenell White, +Commonwealth Organizer of the visit, Brigadier-General H. W. Lloyd, +Brigadier-General Dodds, Commodore J. S. Dumaresq, were also outstanding +figures of the party. The Commonwealth arrangements, extensive though +they were, represented only a small portion of the organization +connected with the Australian part of the tour. Every State had also its +own organizer, besides numerous committees--committees for decoration +and illuminations, reception committees, committees for dinners and +dances, school committees, committees to guide and instruct the British +Press. These last-named bodies, to whom the debt of the visiting +newspapermen was considerable, consisted not of delegated correspondents +but of the editors and proprietors of the leading journals themselves. +These gentlemen also took upon themselves the duty of making known +throughout each State the story of the Prince's doings, thus giving to +the business of publicity the best and most influential brains +available, and placing at the disposal of the Overseas pressmen a +constant reference to experience and local knowledge of the utmost +value. + +[Illustration: JUTLAND DAY AT MELBOURNE] + +[Illustration: WITH AUSTRALIA'S MOST DISTINGUISHED CITIZEN] + +With the Commonwealth Prime Minister an ex-Labour member, and with +Labour Governments in power in several of the Australian state +legislatures, no one can visit Melbourne, seat of the Commonwealth +Government, without coming up against some of the industrial problems +and prospects in this country. It has already been mentioned that, at +the dinner given to the Prince by the Commonwealth Government, in +Parliament Buildings, Mr. Frank Tudor, leader of the Labour Party in +opposition to Mr. Hughes' Government, warmly seconded the toast of the +Prince's health. I repeat this fact, as it seems to be indicative of the +general attitude of Victorian labour towards the Royal visit. The +British pressmen had the opportunity of meeting some of the Labour +leaders, amongst them Mr. E. J. Holloway, Secretary of the Melbourne +Trades Hall, and Mr. D. L. MacNamara, Labour Member of the Victoria +Upper House. They are men of moderate views, while full of schemes for +bettering the conditions of labour on this continent. Mr. MacNamara is +the author of proposals, now forming part of the Australian Labour +Party's platform, for revising the Commonwealth constitution, upon lines +designed to make the will of the people supreme. He would abolish +existing State governments, and divide the States into provinces +administered by councils exercising only such functions as might, from +time to time, be conferred upon them by the Commonwealth Government, +the Upper Chamber in the latter to be done away with, thereby leaving +the lower Federal House a free hand to put through legislation +beneficial to the masses. This scheme, whatever may be its intrinsic +merits, is rather of theoretic than practical interest, as there is not +much probability of any proposals for increasing the powers of the +Commonwealth Government being accepted by the States, which are after +all in paramount authority for the time being. It is nevertheless +important as showing the constructive nature of problems with which +Labour men in this part of Australia concern themselves. Mr. Holloway's +activities have been chiefly connected with organizing proposals for the +immediate advantage of workers, reducing their hours of work, and +increasing their pay. Australian labour is watching developments in +England, and a tendency is growing to substitute friendly round-table +conferences between workers and employers for the less elastic processes +of strikes and lock-outs which have so often been resorted to in the +past. + +There was no lack of evidence in Melbourne to show how closely the +community, as a whole, is affected by the new distribution of political +power. Smoke-room assertions that industry was being destroyed by the +frequency of strikes need not be taken too seriously, since the manifest +prosperity of the crowds and the well-ordered activities of the +factories did not at the time confirm any such mournful supposition. It +is apropos to mention, however, that in Melbourne places of business +much capital is locked up in purely emergency apparatus for doing +without such public utilities as water-supply, electricity and gas, +these arrangements being designed to enable industry to continue during +periods of municipal inactivity, a fact which is certainly significant +of the frequency of strikes in the past. Another noticeable feature is +the far-reaching nature of the activities of the unions. In the +sub-editorial rooms of the leading newspapers may be seen labour forms, +to be filled up even by men holding well-paid appointments upon the +staff, giving detailed particulars of hours of duty, overtime and +emoluments. + +Friendly personal interest, rather than anything deeper, was perhaps +apparent in what some of the Labour men said about the Prince. Friendly +personal interest was always there, however. Even those who were +inclined to ascribe the wonderful reception in the streets to the Prince +being "a good sport, and well advertised," readily admitted the +desirability of the British connexion, and their own cordial wish to +keep up old relationships in this new land. At the time of the Prince's +visit correspondence appeared in the Melbourne Press on the subject of +alleged Catholic lukewarmness in regard to Royalty, and it must be said +that political trouble in Ireland has not been without its echo of +difficulty in Victoria, though the extent of anything of the kind might +be very easily exaggerated. + +The wonder is, however, not that isolated exceptions should be found, +but that, with all the divergent political ideals, and conflicting +social conditions, necessarily met with in a large city of such recent +growth as Melbourne, so generous a measure of warm-hearted loyalty +should have been manifested, loyalty in which all sections of the +community, including Labour, showed themselves to be in warm accord. + + + + +XIII + +NEW SOUTH WALES + + +Towards the end of the visit to Melbourne it became plain that the +tension of repeated functions and strenuous journeys had begun to tell +upon the Prince. He held out manfully, but was clearly overtired. This +was by no means surprising, at all events to any member of the tour +party, for all had begun to feel a strain which fell in a degree vastly +multiplied upon His Royal Highness. + +That well-informed journal, "The Melbourne Argus," referring to the +matter, said: "When the programme was arranged, before the arrival in +Melbourne, the opinion was expressed in these columns that it was +proposed to place too great a strain upon the Prince, and since his +arrival it has become every day more evident that human strength is +unequal to the tasks which have been set. The Prince has not made any +complaint, but has most generously and courageously met all engagements. +Only those in close association with him know the expenditure of nervous +force which this conscientious discharge of duty has entailed." + +Eventually the programme was altered so as to give H.R.H. an additional +week in Melbourne, free from public engagements. The hope that he would +rest, however, was not in any literal sense fulfilled, as he spent his +holiday in riding and golf, hardly less tiring than the public functions +which the doctor had forbidden him. His staff were lucky if, after a +long day spent in the saddle, he could be persuaded not to dance into +the small hours. This strenuousness is characteristic. In the _Renown_ +he spent much of his spare time exercising on deck or playing squash +racquets. A mile run was his not infrequent preparation for a long day +of public engagements. It is an attractive habit, but in the case of one +subjected as the Prince is, at short intervals, to emotional as well as +physical strain it hardly carries the recuperative benefit that it might +in ordinary circumstances. The rest in Melbourne, such as it was, +enabled him to carry on throughout the remainder of the tour. He seemed +occasionally to take every ounce out of himself, but he "carried on." + +Melbourne's send-off, when the Prince ultimately left to proceed to +Sydney, was, if possible, even more demonstrative than its reception +when he arrived. Nine aeroplanes, soaring round the Ionic columns of +Parliament Buildings, as dusk was falling, created the first stir in the +immense crowd which waited along the road he was to take. Presently +distant cheering was heard gradually coming nearer, as his car made its +way from the Moone Valley racecourse, where he had spent the afternoon, +to the top of Collins Street, where the official portion of the route +commenced. Slowly the procession extricated itself from the mass of +people who rushed up to say farewell, and assailed his car with +offerings of flowers and wax Kewpie dolls for luck. A real horse-shoe, +tied up in ribbon, was thrown by an admirer unable to get near enough to +present it. It was perhaps owing to the good luck it brought that it +dropped harmlessly into the bottom of the Prince's car. Eventually, the +procession was able to go forward along a barricaded lane kept by the +police in the middle of the street. In this space children raced +alongside, and a ripple of waving hats and handkerchiefs kept pace with +the cars as they advanced, while the evening air rang with cries of +"Good-bye, Digger": "Come Again!" interspersed with clapping and +cheering. The Prince stood upon the seat of the car waving his hat +through some miles of these demonstrations. + +On the wharf at Port Melbourne a farewell address was presented by the +local authorities beneath a gigantic arch inscribed "Australia Is Proud +of You." Here the State Premier and other notables attended, also a +guard-of-honour of the Royal Australian Naval Brigade. The reverberation +of boots upon the wharf, as the crowd rushed afterwards to catch a last +view of the Prince as he went up the gangway of the _Renown_, drowned +the sound of a fife and drum band, operated by ladies in MacKenzie +tartans, which banged on cheerfully alongside. + +The _Renown_ sailed at daylight, escorted out of harbour by a flotilla +of Australian destroyers. The voyage was along a hilly shore for the +most part covered with forest. The first port of call was in the wide, +sheltered harbour of Jervis Bay, the Dartmouth of Australia. Here Sir +Joseph Cook and Rear-Admiral Grant, with Captain Walters, Dr. Wheatly +and other senior members of the Naval College, received the Prince, who +inspected a smart guard-of-honour of cadets, and was subsequently shown +over the institution, which is well arranged and up to date. The +buildings include airy dormitories, comfortable study rooms, convenient +lecture halls, commodious laboratories, and spacious gymnasium and +gun-room, and are built round a roomy grass "quarter-deck," on which the +cadets in the course of the afternoon handsomely defeated the best Rugby +football team that the _Renown_ could produce. Nothing could exceed the +pleasantness and wholesomeness of the atmosphere of this fine naval +training college. The life by the cadets is an open-air one, and a more +healthy and promising body of youngsters it would be impossible to find +anywhere. They are being given a sound education amongst surroundings +calculated to impress upon them the beauty and attractiveness of the +land whose service they are about to enter. The harbour, at the foot of +the college playing-fields, is to be the port of entrance to the federal +territory of Canberra. The site of the new capital itself is only some +seventy miles inland, a distance which is thought nothing of in this +country of magnificent spaces. A railway has been surveyed to connect +the two places, and a corridor of federal territory had been marked out, +so that the entire line, including the port, may be out of reach of any +state influence. + +The Jervis Bay College is a step in the direction of making the fine +fighting ships, which Australia already possesses, independent of the +help of the Mother Country. Boys are growing up there who will hereafter +command them, and perhaps build the big naval graving docks, that are so +badly wanted in Australian waters, to enable the modern battleships of +Great Britain to reinforce effectually those of Australia in any trouble +that may arise in the Pacific. + +"What do you think of our harbour?" is as inevitable a question in +Sydney as "What do you think of America?" is in New York. It was soon +countered by the demand of the blue-jackets on the _Renown_, "And what +do you think of our ship?" but its relevance was easy enough to +understand, when, in the misty dawn, of what was mid-winter in +Australia, but might have been a fine June day in England, we reached +the high rocky headlands which guard the entrance to these wonderful +inland waters. + +A flotilla of war-vessels, including two Australian cruisers and a +number of destroyers, escorted the Prince's ship into an aquatic +amphitheatre. On all sides were beautiful wooded promontories sloping +down to the edge of still pearly water. The slopes were studded with +home-like villas, each gay in its own garden. Bays and inlets made +shaded alleyways in all directions from the central expanse. Slowly the +battle-cruiser threaded her way through the deep water marked but by +buoys into the inner harbour. Hundreds of decorated motor-boats and +dozens of double-decked ferry-steamers crowded round, each one of them a +cheerful bouquet of brilliant parasols and fine-weather millinery. +Well-groomed men, opulently dressed women, and smartly turned out boys +and girls, on one boat after another waved handkerchiefs and Union +Jacks, clapped, cheered, laughed, and sang. Brass bands banged out the +National Anthem, and the usual petition to the Almighty to bless the +Prince of Wales. The Prince waved and smiled in return, from his eyrie +above the bridge, while fresh boats raced alongside, and continually +restarted the hubbub. + +As the _Renown_ advanced up the harbour droves of rowing-boats and +flocks of sailing craft added themselves to the now slow procession. +Gatherings of people became visible as dark patches on the white +foreshore of every promontory. In the case of the rocky headland +overlooking the middle harbour, the patch must have been many acres in +extent. The _Renown_ dropped anchor half a mile from Farm Cove, a +sheltered gap in the encircling hills. The Prince went ashore in his +launch, through a decorated cheering sea-lane of tugs, ferry-steamers, +rowing-boats and yachts. He landed on a shaded beach, the slope behind +solidly crammed with people, while beside the water, in a grove of +bunting and greenery, were assembled the most distinguished men to be +found in this part of Australia. Those present included the +Governor-General, the Prime Minister, the State Governor, the State +Premier, Members of the Commonwealth Government resident in New South +Wales, the whole of the State legislature, Ministers, Judges in robes +and wigs, Admirals and Generals in the last inch of permitted gold-lace. +Immediately behind was a decorated marquee in which were the civic +officials, including the Lord Mayor of Sydney in municipal robes and +ermine, who presented an address. A naval guard-of-honour was drawn up +on one side of the marquee, and a military guard-of-honour on the other. +Salutes were fired, bands played, the guards-of-honour were inspected, +the principal people were presented. The address was replied to, and +amidst much cheering the Prince was conducted up a decorated staircase +to the top of the cliff where a number of four-in-hands with large +mounted escorts of "diggers" were in waiting to convey him through the +city. The proceedings differed from those on the occasion of the entry +into Melbourne in that they took place in bright morning sunshine, +instead of in the fading light of evening. The route, including as it +did long straight stretches of undulating ground, enabled the brilliant +pageant of flags, escorts and pennants to be seen as a whole as the +procession jingled through five miles of densely packed people. + +The way was kept by returned soldiers and cadets. Triumphal arches, +constructed throughout of such characteristic Australian products as +wool-bales, corn-sheaves, or balks of timber, dotted it at intervals. +Avenues of white colonnades supported flags and bunting which stretched +continuously for miles. Sightseers festooned the parapets, crowded the +balconies, tapestried the windows with eager faces, and formed a solid +mass between the wooden barriers of the processional lane and the +plate-glass show-fronts of the business houses. + +In substantial Macquarie Street the Prince stopped to greet a terribly +large community of crippled soldiers, who sat patiently in motors and +bath-chairs by the wayside, attended by nursing sisters. Further on a no +less touching spectacle awaited him, in a great gathering of +black-garbed mothers, widows and orphans of diggers killed at the front, +a pathetic reminder that, of the four hundred thousand soldiers raised +by voluntary enlistment in Australia during the war, only one in two +escaped wounds or death. Here the pressure was dense; and spectators, we +heard, paid a shilling a minute to stand on packing-cases to look over +one another's heads. + +The route ended on the shady lawns of Admiralty House, where the Prince +inspected a great company of war-workers, who stood in ranks of +variegated colour, including the red and grey of sisters who served in +hospitals overseas, and the white and black of those whose no less +devoted labour kept public utilities active at home while the manhood of +the nation was in the field. Before entering the building where he was +to stay the Prince shook hands with no less than ten wearers of the +Victoria Cross. + +The reception was over. Perhaps the feature in it which struck the +visitor most, next to its magnificence and enthusiasm, was the +light-heartedness of the crowds. After the Prince had passed, and had +been everywhere cheered, Mr. Hughes, the Commonwealth Prime Minister, +Mr. Storey, the State Premier, and other ministers who were further back +in the procession were subjected to volleys of chaff and counter-chaff +from supporters and opponents, in which they themselves joined with the +utmost goodwill. Even the crashing into the harbour, close alongside the +reception wharf, of one of the aeroplanes employed on escort duty, upset +the equanimity of nobody. A motor-launch promptly picked up the soused +aviators, who seemed to find the accident the greatest of larks. + +The country round was as much interested in the visit as the city +itself. For days before the Prince's coming special trains, crowded to +their utmost capacity, had followed one another in quick succession into +Sydney from localities sometimes hundreds of miles away in the back +blocks. One heard of a father who squeezed his family of tiny children +into one of these special trains, and was then unable to get a foothold +on it for himself. The mites went to Sydney unaccompanied, but lacked +for nothing, either upon the way or when they arrived, for every soul +upon the train was prepared to father and mother them. + +The ten days which followed were crowded with public functions in which +what seemed to be the entire population of Sydney participated outside, +if not inside, the place of occurrence. One of the principal was the +state banquet in the enormous town-hall. Seven hundred and twenty diners +here sat down. Three thousand of Sydney's maids and matrons watched the +proceedings from the galleries on either side, and at a given signal +after the dinner, when the Prince proposed "The Ladies," there was a +sound like a vast flight of pigeons and three thousand Union Jacks +fluttered into the air. The ladies had responded for themselves. Crowds +blocked the wide streets for half a mile round the building, throughout +the whole of the proceedings, and took up the cheering again and again. +The toasts of the evening were honoured, not only in the banquet hall +itself, but by some hundred of thousands outside as well. + +Mr. Storey, the Premier of the Labour Government in power in New South +Wales, made a most cordial speech in proposing the Prince's health. He +described the Royal guest as a democrat in whose presence he felt no +embarrassment in speaking frankly. He welcomed him on behalf of New +South Wales, and declared that the Royal family had always shown +sympathy with the ideals for which Labour men everywhere stood. In the +course of his reply, the Prince said: "I realize to the full the great +part which New South Wales and Sydney have played, and must always play, +in the history of Australia. This wonderful city is the cradle of the +magnificent development which has made the Australian Commonwealth. The +whole thing started here, and in later days you were foremost in the +movement of ideas which led to federation. The greatest of all the +statesmen who first worked for federation, Henry Parkes, was a Sydney +man, and a Premier of New South Wales. The first Australian Prime +Minister, Sir Edmund Barton, also came from New South Wales. It is +amazing to think that New South Wales holds two-fifths of the population +of the whole Commonwealth and that Sydney holds more than half of the +population of New South Wales. That fact alone shows the vast +importance, not only to the Commonwealth, but to the future of the whole +Empire, of this state and its lovely capital. Sydney is indeed the +London of the Southern Hemisphere." + +It is characteristic of Australia that the Commonwealth banquet in +Sydney, at which the Prince subsequently made what was probably his +principal speech during the tour, was an outwardly less imposing +function than was the state dinner I have just described. The +Commonwealth banquet was given in one of the upper stories of a fine +building in Martin's Place erected under the direction of Sir Denison +Miller, founder of that great national organization the Commonwealth +Bank, which now handles the entire finances of the central Government, +including the raising of loans and the issue of currency. + +At the Commonwealth dinner the Governor-General presided and Mr. Hughes +made one of those felicitous speeches which have won him a European +reputation, though they are themselves surpassed by his lightning humour +and uncompromising common sense in the cut and thrust of debate. "Time," +he said, "circumstances, and the age-long struggles for freedom by men +who held liberty dearer than life, have fashioned the constitution under +which we live. The monarchy is an integral part of it. If Britain +decided to adopt a republican form of Government that would be the end +of the Empire as we know it to-day. The Empire has grown. It is, if you +like, the most illogical of institutions. It is composed of many free +nations very jealous of their own rights, and brooking no interference +with these. Yet, to the outside world, it is, in time of danger, one. +And the institution which binds all these together is the Monarchy of +England." The Prince in reply declared that there was no finer body of +men than those which Australia sent to represent her in the various +theatres of the war. He went on to sum up the aspirations of Australia +in the words of Sir Edmund Barton, "a continent for a nation, and a +nation for a continent," and evoked a storm of cheering when he +declared, "I am quite sure of one thing, that as Australia stands by the +Empire, so will the Empire stand by Australia for all time." + +The enthusiasm that characterized the Prince's entry into Sydney, and +the State and Commonwealth banquets given there in his honour, became if +possible more and not less accentuated as his visit wore on. Outstanding +everywhere was the tumultuous cordiality with which he was greeted by +enormous crowds. The same thing occurred at the races, at the gala +performance at His Majesty's Theatre, at the parade of returned men, at +a wonderful display by state school-children, also when he entered the +chief military hospital beneath an arch of crutches, and when fifty +thousand people passed before him in the town-hall. + +The whole was an experience which can never be forgotten by any of those +who had the good fortune to be there. The popular reception in the +town-hall was especially impressive. Here, standing on the dais in the +centre of this fine building, the Lord Mayor of Sydney alongside, and a +number of ministers, judges and soldiers, grouped about him, the Prince, +in plain grey jacket suit and soft brown hat, received the salutes of a +great multitude of men, women and children--the blind man led by +friends, the old lady who must see the Prince before she died, the baby +who would be able to say in years to come that it was present. The +people were shepherded past by members of the local police, for whose +patience and courtesy it is impossible to express too great admiration, +in one long, smiling, curtsying, hat-doffing stream. Numerous barriers +had been erected, but there was no crushing whatever. It was a +demonstration of orderliness and public spirit of the very best. + +Another picturesque function was where, under the twinkling pendants of +the big chandeliers in the ballroom of Sydney's Government House, +beneath the portrait of his ancestor George III, and before a brilliant +assemblage of naval and military officers, judges, ministers, civic +authorities, and members of consular bodies, the Prince shook hands with +several hundreds of representative men belonging to all sections and +communities of the Australian continent. Interesting also was the day he +spent amongst the young folk. It began with a visit to the Sydney +Cricket-Ground where twelve thousand children of the local Government +primary schools, headed by Mr. Mutch, Minister for Education, Mr. Board, +Director of Education, and Colonel Strong, Chairman of the Executive +Committee, organized and supervised a picturesque exhibition of physical +drill. The children deployed upon the grass in the centre, where they +went through evolutions and exercises, and arranged themselves so as to +form patriotic emblems and messages of welcome. Fifty thousand parents +and relations occupied gigantic stands around the ground and added a +bass to the treble of the children's cheering. + +Later on the Prince proceeded to the University. On the way he passed +through some of the less fashionable quarters of Sydney, where he was +warmly received by crowds consisting largely of artisans, amongst whom +his popularity seemed to grow each day he remained in Australia. At the +University, a place with fine buildings, in pleasant country +surroundings, on the outskirts of the city, he was cheered by some two +thousand undergraduates, five hundred girl students, and a big gathering +of graduates and members of their families. The great hall, with +stained-glass mullioned windows, dark grained timber roof and grey stone +walls, broken by a long array of mellowing oil portraits, where the +Chancellor, Sir William Cullen, read an address, recalled the beautiful +precincts of Christchurch, Oxford, upon which it appears to be designed. +The feeling of home was heightened, alike by stained-glass portraits of +Cardinal Wolsey and other famous founders of Oxford and Cambridge +colleges, and by the presence in the assemblage of a number of red and +black Oxford hoods amongst the grey ones worn by graduates of the Sydney +University. The gathering included a fine body of students in uniform, +many of them wearing war-decorations won overseas. The blue and gold +flag of the University corps occupied a place of honour at one end. + +Replying to the address, the Prince referred to the profoundly important +work the Sydney University was doing, and its splendid record in the +war, and went on to say: "The generation which faced the war ennobled +your traditions, fine as those already were, and left a great example of +personal service to the King and Empire for the present generation to +pursue." + +[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE GARDENS, NEW SOUTH WALES] + +[Illustration: PERTH, FROM THE KING'S PARK] + +Replying later to an undergraduate address read by Captain Allen, M.C., +the Prince said: "You have referred to my comradeship with your own two +thousand fellow students who went to the front in the great war, and I +assure you there is no part of my experience which I value more than my +long association with those gallant troops, both officers and men." +Concluding he said: "Many of you are now completing or beginning a +university course after service in the field. I hope that these will not +find themselves handicapped by the time they spent overseas." It was a +hope that perhaps the easier conditions and nearer prospects of young +life in Australia may well fulfil. In any case its expression was one of +the many graceful gestures of consideration that did so much to bring +the Prince close to the hearts of the people of that country. + + + + +XIV + +SOME COMMONWEALTH AFFAIRS + + +"One heritage we share though seas divide" surmounted one of the +decorated arches on the route traversed by the Prince on the day of the +military review at the Centennial Park, Sydney--a phrase no doubt, but +one that expressed the sentiment which pervaded this striking occasion. +Major-General Sir Charles Rosenthal commanded the parade, which included +a naval detachment under Lt.-Commander Patrick, a body of Light Horse +under Major-General Ryrie, and portions of five Divisions respectively +under Brigadiers Bennett, Martin, Jobson, Herring, and Christian. The +command was made up entirely of demobilized men, who, despite cold grey +weather on a full working day, had donned service uniform and +assembled--many of them from long distances--to do honour to the heir to +the Throne. The numbers present were not precisely ascertainable, as the +men were not under discipline, but had turned up of their own accord. +Estimates of how many attended therefore varied considerably, but any +number up to twenty thousand may have been there. + +When the Prince reached the ground he found the units drawn up in +formation about half a mile in length in front of him. Long lines of +bath-chairs and motors were on his left, filled with disabled men who +had been brought from sanatoria and hospitals in the districts around. +Behind him some thirty thousand spectators joined in the cheering. The +Prince went down the lines, shook hands with all the officers and spoke +to a number of the men. He also shook hands with every disabled soldier +present. The proceedings terminated with a general march past in column, +so arranged that the disabled men could see their old regiments go by. + +A sequel to the military review was a visit a few days later to Duntroon +College, the Sandhurst of Australia. Daylight on the shortest day in the +Australian mid-winter found the Royal train, now on the standard +four-feet-eight-inch gauge of New South Wales, speeding through dry, +rolling country, dotted with occasional blue gums beneath whose tattered +foliage sheep were picking a wholesome meal. Bright sunshine reminded +one that it was Australia, though the cold wind, which drove clouds of +dust and grit into our faces, might have been from a March east in +England. At the township of Queanbeyan, where the Prince changed into a +motor-car, the entire population had assembled and the usual ceremonies +of welcome were gone through. The country beyond Queanbeyan was open, +and barbed wire fences bounded the road on either side most of the way +to Duntroon, which proved to be a pleasant garden township of +white-walled houses, set upon a low hill amongst many trees. + +Senator Pearce, Commonwealth Minister for Defence, and General Legge, +Commandant of the College, with a group of red-tabbed field officers, +received the Prince on a sheltered lawn overlooking a wide grassy plain +reserved for aeroplane manoeuvres. Those presented included a number +of the professors whose rank between soldier and pedagogue was quaintly +expressed by their black mortar-boards and college gowns which only +partially concealed service uniforms and war-decorations. The Prince +afterwards saw the cadets at exercise in the gymnasium, and took the +salute of one hundred and twenty of them as they marched smartly past on +the parade ground. Addressing them afterwards in the big mess-hall at +the dinner-hour, he recalled the fine war history of the college, which +had lost no less than forty-eight of its students in battle, and was +cheered when he repeated the story of that gallant soldier General +Bridges, who had found his way from the Kingston Military College, in +Canada, to make a new Kingston in Duntroon, and to lead Duntroon's first +contingent of trained officers to Gallipoli, where he himself was +killed. + +It was dinner-time and "Carry on" was the word passed round to the +cadets, when H.R.H. had finished his speech, and the cheering had +momentarily died down. The soup was then served at all the tables, but +it must have grown cold while cheer after cheer followed the Prince as +he left the hall and re-entered his motor _en route_ for Canberra, a +place only a few miles distant. + +The way from Duntroon climbed slowly through undulating, park-like +country, dotted with blue gums, two thousand feet above sea level. +Freshly made roads, with water-pipes and sewers laid on, presently +indicated that the site of the much debated new capital of the +Commonwealth had been reached. The scene continued to be rural, however. +The pleasant stream, which meandered amongst willow trees and grassy +solitudes at the foot of the hill--where the Prince subsequently added a +foundation-stone to the already considerable number of these expressions +of hope and faith--might have been a hundred miles from civilization of +any kind. The little river gave to the scene that touch of verdure so +grateful in the dry and dusty bush, and one day will doubtless be +spanned by the arched bridges of the Commonwealth's capital. At present +it must be confessed that the metropolis is hardly more than a sketch of +itself, and a sketch that presents no very distinctive features. + +The importance of Canberra, however, is not to be judged from the +present condition of the site. As the Prince pointed out in his speech +at the ceremony, although the city still consists largely of +foundation-stones, this is chiefly because the war has delayed progress +with the scheme of construction. Mr. Groom, Commonwealth Minister for +Public Works, who presided, summed up the position when he said, +"Victory having been happily achieved, once more the mind of the nation +is reverting to the provision of a national seat of Government where +Australia will be mistress in her own house, and where there will be no +room for the complaint of provincial influence in pursuit of national +aims." The idea thus expressed that the Commonwealth administration +should have a territory of its own, away from the influence of any +individual state, holds the imagination of the majority of Australians. +It is an idea that has worked out satisfactorily alike in Canada and the +United States, where the circumstances, which justified the building of +Ottawa and Washington in the past, are essentially similar to those of +Australia to-day. The fact that India's endeavours at capital building +at Delhi may not yet have met with corresponding success, does not +affect the matter, since the conditions in a bureaucracy differ +essentially from those obtaining in the democratic association of +self-determining Dominions. + +Public opinion in Sydney supports the Canberra scheme on the practical +ground that it will bring the Commonwealth capital nearer to itself. +Melbourne is naturally lukewarm, since the present arrangement whereby +the central legislature meets there, so long as Canberra does not +materialize, is one that local pride desires to see continue as long as +possible. The remainder of the States, while not very actively +enthusiastic about a scheme which must necessarily divert a large sum of +public money from railway and other useful local projects, recognizes +that the atmosphere surrounding the Commonwealth Government would be +none the worse for being removed from the wire-pullings of state +politics. Scenic beauty, healthfulness, a good water-supply, and +accessibility to the two principal Commonwealth centres of population +and industry, combine to justify the choice of Canberra for the purpose +concerned, and the fact that a sum of some two million sterling of +public money has already been sunk in preparing the site, increases the +probability that the scheme will eventually be brought to completion. + +One of the party accompanying the Prince on his visit to Canberra was a +minister of state, who loved to tell how he had left his home in the +Canberra district on a push-bike to seek his fortune twenty years +before, now to return, in company with the Prince of Wales and as the +responsible head of an important Government department. Like every one +else who knows this part of the country, he overflowed with enthusiasm +as to the healthful prospects of its future. It was from him, I believe, +that the Prince first heard the ancient tale of the cemetery for which, +after long and infructuous waiting upon local necessity, the inhabitants +were driven to import a corpse from outside. That cemetery has served +many a rising town. It must be closed by now except for purposes of +historical research, but no doubt Canberra's claim to it will be +justified when the time comes. + +Another expedition from Sydney was by train and launch, up the +Hawkesbury river, and on to Newcastle. On this occasion the Prince was +accompanied by the entire New South Wales Labour Cabinet, including +Premier Storey. One of the features of the trip was a remarkable +demonstration on the part of the men working in the Sydney railway +sheds, who assembled in large numbers along the line, and shouted good +wishes as the Prince's train went out. Every engine in the big station +yard at the same time blew a shrill accord on its whistle, a choral +accompaniment which was as convincing as it was deafening. + +Addresses were presented, on the way, at the towns of Parramatta and +Windsor, while the residents, along fifty miles of the river traversed +by the Royal launch, assembled at the water's edge and waved flags and +cheered as the Prince went through what is probably one of the most +beautiful water-ways in the world. At Hawkesbury River Landing, where +the Prince rejoined the train and met a number of mothers and widows of +men fallen in the war, the entire station had been decorated by the +unpaid labour of those working upon the line. At Fassifern, which he +went through after nightfall, the entire valley was lighted up by +bonfires, and the station and wharf at the small township of Toronto, +where the Prince spent a night at the house of Mr. Duncan McGeachie, was +a fantasy of Chinese lanterns. + +The following morning the Prince received and replied to an address on +the local pier which juts out into the beautiful Macquarie lake. Here, +waving over his head, was a Canadian flag, presented to this Australian +namesake by the capital city of Ontario. From Toronto the Prince was +taken by train past a number of the pit-heads of one of the richest +mining districts in Australia, at that time supplying coal at the very +reasonable price of seventeen shillings per ton f.o.b. on the seaboard. +Every heap of slack and every railway truck, as the Prince's train went +by, had upon it a contingent of miners who cheered in a way to warm the +coldest heart. + +Newcastle, the second city of New South Wales, was reached at noon. The +Prince, on alighting, was received by the Mayor and Corporation, +supported by a smart guard-of-honour of naval cadets and an immense +crowd of spectators. He crossed the harbour by launch and landed on the +low marshy foreshore of Walsh Island. Here he shook hands with a long +line of returned men, employed in the shipbuilding yards, who gave him a +most cordial reception. Similar scenes were repeated, at least half a +dozen times in the course of the day, at the entrance to each set of +works. At Walsh Island, over which he was conducted by Mr. Estell, State +Minister of Works, and Mr. Cutler, General Manager, New South Wales +Shipbuilding, he launched a fine six-thousand-ton freight steamer, built +by state enterprise on behalf of the Commonwealth Government. The +launching was to have taken place at flood tide, but, owing to +postponement of the Prince's visit, had to be done at the ebb. A strong +west wind on the ship's quarter added to the difficulty of the +undertaking which was entirely overcome, the ship taking the water +beautifully. + +These vessels are an interesting example of state enterprise in New +South Wales. They are designed to carry produce away from Australia, and +to bring British emigrants back. There was at the time plenty of demand +for their services, as thousands of would-be settlers were awaiting +passages in the old country, and wheat was rotting in Australian +granaries that was badly wanted to reduce prices of bread in Europe. The +claim was made for them that they were being built at rates materially +lower than those offering for the construction of similar vessels in any +dockyard in the world at the time the contracts were given out. The +cost, I was told, ranged from L31 per ton until the last rise in wages +took place, which brought the rate up to about L35. At the time of the +Prince's visit no workman employed in the yard was receiving less than +fourteen shillings and fourpence daily, the average being very much +higher than this figure. The vessel launched was the fifth of six +uniform steamers under state construction. The four previously completed +had been rated "A1" at Lloyds. + +After leaving the Government dockyard, the Prince was taken over works +of private enterprise of even larger significance, the steel-furnaces, +rolling-mills and rod-mills of the Broken Hill Proprietary Company, +which are also located in Newcastle. Here he was conducted by Mr. +Delprat, general manager, and Mr. Baker, local manager, and saw the +whole of the processes, from the emptying of three open-hearth blast +furnaces, to the conversion of glowing molten steel into 72-lb. railway +rails, of which these works claim to have manufactured, last year, some +hundred and sixty thousand tons. The capacity of the works is very much +larger even than this amount, two separate strikes having reduced +out-turn in this period. The price paid for these rails by the various +state railways in Australia, which now depend almost entirely upon this +source of supply, was thirteen pounds per ton. I learnt also that the +average pay of the labour employed in the works was about one pound +sterling daily per man. The profit upon the L4,000,000 capital of the +concern is such that its one-pound shares were quoted in the Sydney +Stock Exchange the day the Prince went over the works at sixty-four +shillings apiece. + +After seeing the steel-works, the Prince was conducted by Mr. MacDougall +over a neighbouring wire and nail factory, which claims to be now +filling the entire demand of Australia for plain-wire fencing. The firm +was preparing to set up additional machinery upon a large scale to make +barbed wire which Australia has hitherto bought in Europe. The +significance of this development is considerable, since barbed wire +forms the top, as smooth wire does the lower strands, of fences of which +hundreds of thousands of miles are already in existence in Australia, +and millions of miles more have still to be built. + +After leaving the wire-works, the Prince drove in procession, through +decorated, crowded, cheering streets, to a sheltered park overlooking +the Pacific, where thirty thousand people had assembled and Mayor +Gibson read a civic address. In the course of his reply the Prince dwelt +upon the remarkable industrial development of Newcastle. "Your harbour," +he noted, "your shipping facilities and your manufactures have greatly +enhanced the importance this district has possessed from the earliest +date on account of its rich deposits of coal." + +Leaving Newcastle in the afternoon by train, the Prince returned to +Sydney through a pleasant land of tidy orange plantations and ragged +blue-gum bush. On the way he held a reception in the city of Gosford, +and saw further reaches of the beautiful Hawkesbury river. A record +crowd cheered him at Sydney railway station, and along the route to the +harbour where he rejoined the _Renown_. + + + + +XV + +WESTERN AUSTRALIA + + +The Prince went from Sydney two thousand miles by sea to Western +Australia, a state as large as the combined areas of England, France, +Germany, Austria, Spain, and Holland, with a population of less than +half a million people to develop this stupendous territory. + +On the way, in traversing the Australian Bight, that borders the +southern coast of the continent, the _Renown_ encountered weather +remarkably bad even for this region of frequent gales. Green seas swept +over forecastle and quarter-deck alike. The engines were slowed down. +The big ship strained, clanked, and groaned, but proved her +seaworthiness magnificently. The waves were still high in King George's +Sound outside Albany, where owing to shallow water the _Renown_ had to +lie four miles from land in a wide and but partially sheltered bay. +Where the shore could be seen it lay in rocky grass-grown hummocks, on +which the surf beat heavily. A picket boat conveyed the Prince and his +staff through a narrow entrance into the small landlocked harbour, where +they landed on a desolate pier, wet decorations flapping dismally in +cold wind and spray. The entire population had turned out, however, +despite the weather. The Governor of Western Australia, Sir Francis +Newdegate, the State Premier, Mr. Mitchell, and a number of other +members of the Government awaited the Prince upon the pier. The Mayor of +Albany read an address from a wind-swept platform in front of a town +hall prominently situated on a low hill facing a wide street that led +down to the harbour. The crowd here was a varied one. It included +traders, merchants, commission-agents, and manufacturers belonging to +Albany itself, also large numbers of fruit-growers and farmers from +stations in the interior of this prosperous land of orchards and +wheatfields. Gatherings of returned soldiers and school children, also +nurses and other war-workers flanked the general assemblage. A night +train journey followed through rolling country and bush, with arable +fields, apple orchards and orange gardens which looked most attractive +next morning in brilliant sunshine in the freshest of rain-washed air. + +The Prince was cheered by gatherings at many wayside stations, including +Parkerville, where a number of children, in charge of gentle-faced +sisters in black robes, sang patriotic songs in the chill morning air as +the train went through. About noon he alighted at Perth, capital of +Western Australia, an extraordinarily beautiful city, with wide streets +and solid masonry houses, situated on the low banks of the picturesque +Swan River--here so wide as to be almost a lagoon. + +The streets were decorated and lined with cheerful people. Those who +received the Prince included the Governor, the State Premier, the Mayor, +Mr. Lathlain, the Chief Justice, Sir R. MacMillan, the leader of the +State Opposition, Mr. P. Collier, the Chairman of the Reception +Committee, General Sir Talbot Hobbs, also most of the other members of +the local houses of Parliament and of the Perth municipal corporation. +The Prince went through the usual inspection of naval and military +guards-of-honour, and then proceeded by motor-car through the city, +which looked delightfully fresh in bright winter sunshine. The crowd was +lined up behind wooden barriers on either side of a lane kept by +blue-jackets from H.M.A.S. _Sydney_, also men of the Royal Australian +Naval Reserve, and returned soldiers, cadets and scouts. The route taken +was some two miles in length. It lay through the principal business and +residential streets, the crowd extending the entire distance, clapping, +cheering, laughing and flag-waving as the Prince went by. The procession +disappeared inside the shady grounds of Government House, a place of +green lawns and rose-bushes blossoming in the shade of banana-trees and +Insignis pines. + +Later on H.R.H. visited the principal theatre, where he addressed +several thousand returned sailors, soldiers and nurses. He congratulated +them on their services, alike during the war and since their return +home, where they had shown that they stood for the maintenance of law +and order. From the theatre the Prince went on to a big civic luncheon +in the Town Hall, where Mayor Lathlain told an appreciative audience of +their guest's keen personal interest in the welfare of the people of the +Dominions. He also mentioned the fact that the Prince had come as +representing "the dear old Motherland, the heart of the Empire, the land +upon whose Navy so largely depends Australia's ability to carry on her +peaceful avocations." H.R.H. was loudly cheered when he rose to reply, +and his pleasant little speech evoked the greatest enthusiasm. He +felicitated Perth and Western Australia generally upon their wonderful +progress, of which much had been achieved within the memory of the +present generation. He said he knew Western Australia's record in the +Great War, and desired also to congratulate its women--alike those who +had gone abroad and those who had worked at home. An investiture at +Government House and a State ball completed the day's work. + +The visit to Perth lasted about a week. It had several memorable +features, among them a review, when, in a wide thoroughfare bordered by +pleasant residences bearing such British names as Ilfracombe, Warwick +House, and St. George's Terrace, the Prince stood, framed in a +background of crowded grandstands, taking the salutes of a number of +thousands of Australians, including a solid contingent of blue-jackets, +a yet larger one of returned soldiers, some in khaki, some in mufti, +cohorts of cadets and boy scouts, both naval and military, phalanxes of +red cross nurses in smart white dresses, and girl guides in a dense +column of blue, followed by what seemed an endless procession of +children, every school within ten miles of Perth being represented. + +From the review the Prince went to Mayor Lathlain's "people's +garden-party" in the National Park. Here upon a dais beneath a statue of +his great grandmother, Queen Victoria, in the shelter of big +timber-trees, commanding a magnificent view of the city and the river, +he stood for an hour while the people of Perth streamed past in column. +Babies were carried pick-a-back on their fathers' shoulders, men doffed +hats, mothers and daughters waved hands, handkerchiefs or flags, as +they passed. One old lady delayed the line to shake hands with him, but +accepted the Admiral's clasp as a makeshift, the Prince being too busy +taking off his hat and returning eight smiles at a time to have a hand +to spare. Everybody was so engrossed gazing at the visitor, every head +turning on its neck for a long backward glance after the dais had been +passed, that hardly an eye was drawn off when a noisy aeroplane, which +had been stunting unnoticed in the Prince's honour overhead, suddenly +swooped out of intolerable oblivion to within a hundred feet of him. + +A further notable function was the State banquet at Perth Government +House. Here were present all the leaders of thought and enterprise in +Western Australia, politicians, administrators, squatters, settlers, +traders, naval and military commanders, ministers, judges, ten V.C.'s, +and everybody else who counted. Grace was said by that soldierly +episcopal, Archbishop Riley, who, as a Chaplain-in-Chief of the +Australian forces in the field, is known and loved from one end of +Australia to the other. The Prince's health was proposed by Premier +Mitchell. After it had been drunk with the usual cheering and waving of +napkins, H.R.H. made a speech. "Your policy," he said, "is to draw +settlers from the old country, at the same time ensuring that they shall +not suffer from lack of experience when they are first put upon the land +of their adopted country. I am delighted to hear that you are giving to +Imperial ex-service men the same chance of starting life upon the land +when they arrive in this state, as you give your own diggers. I can +think of no more admirable way than this of continuing the splendid +traditions of the war and maintaining our united British spirit." It +was a note which has often been sounded since to appreciation and +applause throughout the Empire. + +One of the expeditions made from the state capital was by launch down +the wide placid reaches of the Swan River, still the haunt of the black +swan, emblem of Western Australia, to hold a reception at the port of +Fremantle, some ten miles distant, where the river joins the sea. No +black swans graced the occasion, only an occasional porpoise leapt +alongside the launch as it entered the estuary. The entire population of +the countryside lined the banks as the vessel went past, every village, +settlement, and factory _en route_ contributing its quota, which in the +case of saw-mills, cold-storage plant and electricity works, consisted +almost entirely of workmen. + +Arrived at Fremantle the entire city was found awaiting the Prince, +crowding the pier and lined up along the streets. Naval and military +guards-of-honour, with bands, saluted. The chairman and members of the +Harbour Trust and the Mayor and members of the city council stood +bare-headed as he made his landing. From the pier he was conducted in +procession, first to a picturesque display by thousands of children, and +afterwards to the big "Anzac" military hospital where convalescent +patients were drawn up with doctors and nurses outside, and where the +warmth of the cheers that came from the wards, where he went round the +beds of those too ill to move, was more than touching. + +Speaking later at a civic luncheon, the Prince looked forward to +Fremantle's eventually becoming one of the leading harbours in the +Empire, the importance of its position as the first port of call on the +western seaboard being emphasized by the completion of the +trans-continental railway. Returning to Perth later in the afternoon by +motor-car, he was taken through the magnificent National Park, a +well-kept forest upland, full of fine timber, including a whole avenue, +each individual tree dedicated to some West Australian soldier fallen in +the war. Just before entering this park, the Prince passed some +thousands of children drawn from schools in the Cottesloe, Claremont and +Subiaco municipal areas, who stood hardily in the rain in the open to +wave their flags and sing their patriotic songs. + +Still another rewarding expedition was by car to some of the fruit +gardens near Perth. Orange groves in the dips and apple orchards on the +rising slopes made odd neighbours. The apple-trees were bare, but +oranges hung in the golden profusion of Malta or Seville. Fifty acres of +this fruit in some cases meant a clear income of over a thousand pounds +per annum to the fortunate owner after paying for all labour other than +his own. The orchard zone was near the coast. Further inland is one of +the wide wheat-belts which feed Australia and furnish a surplus for +Great Britain. Beyond this again begin the cattle-stations of the Great +North-West. Perth was buzzing with the Great North-West. A commission +composed of parliamentarians and publicists had just returned, loaded +with information and optimism, from a two-thousand mile expedition +through it by motor. In addition the highways were blocked and the views +were obscured by mountainous men, full of deep cocktails and deliberate +conversation, who had descended from this region for the occasion of the +Prince's visit. Some of these genial giants worked, as private pasture, +areas ranging to over two million acres. They seemed in themselves a +sufficient indication of what the country could produce, and an adequate +reason for railway enterprise in their direction. In this state land +nationalizes may note the character of the movement towards small +holdings. It has recently been laid down that no peasant or other +proprietor shall obtain a fresh grant of more than one million acres. +Not a long step toward communistic property, but possibly a beginning. + + + + +XVI + +WHEAT, GOLD, AND LOGGING + + +The state saw-mills and logging-camps of Pemberton, about a hundred +miles southward along the coast, made an important fixture from Perth. +On this occasion the Prince was accompanied by the Premier and other +members of the West Australian State Government and was conducted by Mr. +Humphries, state saw-mills manager. He was taken over mills where the +enduring Karri trees in trunks sixty feet long and seven feet through +were being sliced by revolving saws into uniform railway sleepers for +export. He also made his way, in heavy rain, partly by railway and +partly on foot, up gorges of great natural beauty in the heart of a +dripping forest, himself took a hand with sinewy axe-men and sturdy +sawyers, in the felling of these giant trees, and saw their subsequent +extraction from swampy thickets by teams each comprising, in some cases, +twenty-four splendid locally bred Clydesdale horses, in others a score +and a half of equally fine Australian bullocks. + +In the presence of a gathering of the entire logging force and their +wives and children, who gave him the most cordial reception, the Prince +afterwards presided at a local log-chopping contest in which champion +woodmen from all parts of Western Australia competed. The excitement of +the forest community of onlookers was intense, and considerable sums +changed hands upon the result. The men were given trunks of as nearly as +possible equal thickness and hardness to hew through. The less +proficient received a certain number of seconds' start. Axes fell with +marvellous rapidity and precision, slices rather than chips flew +incredible distances in pre-ordained directions--it was a remarkable +exhibition of muscle rivalling machinery. One of the long-handicap men +eventually won from the scratch competitor, a magnificent young giant +who was about a second behind. The logs cut through were about fifteen +inches in diameter. Most of the axes used bore the names of American +manufacturers, and had edges still razor-like after the contest was +over. + +A fine exhibition of table-vegetables, grown in pockets in the +neighbouring hills, was also shown to the Prince. Rich land close to the +railway suitable for market-gardening and already cleared is to be had +in this region, it seems, at L25 per acre. It is claimed to produce per +acre from six to nine tons of potatoes, which were fetching on the spot +L12 per ton. The principal prize-winner was a Scotch gardener, who told +the Prince he had come but six years previously without any capital +whatever, and that his holding was now clear of debt and valued at +L1,300. + +On the way back to Perth the Prince had his first and only experience +during the tour of a railway accident. Speaking of it in a reply to the +toast of his health at a public dinner at Perth, a few days after it +occurred, Premier Mitchell expressed thankfulness that the Prince had +escaped unhurt. His Royal Highness in reply treated the matter from a +humorous point of view. He did not regret, he said, to have been able to +add a harmless railway accident to his Australian experiences. The +mishap was very much nearer to being a disastrous one, however, than +this would suggest. It occurred on a single-track, three-foot-six-inch +line, in swampy Westralian forest, some ten miles from the township of +Bridgetown. The Royal train was a heavy one, consisting of some nine +corridor sleeping coaches. It had passed over the spot, which was on a +curve, the same morning on the way to Pemberton. Heavy rain fell in the +course of the day, and on the return journey at about three o'clock in +the afternoon, the track had become so soft that the rails gave way. + +The train was, fortunately, only going at about fifteen miles an hour at +the time, having had to slow down owing to cattle on the lines. The rear +saloon, which was occupied by H.R.H. and Admiral Halsey, seems to have +been the first to leave the line. The saloon immediately in front, which +contained the remainder of the Royal staff and most of the state party, +afterwards followed it. The derailed wheels then bumped along over the +sleepers, which they cut up in the most complete manner, the line for +two hundred and thirty yards being converted into a tangled mass of +twisted rails and broken splinters. The engine-driver felt the jolting +and applied the brakes. This happily took the way off the train, for a +moment later the two derailed vehicles rolled over the soft embankment, +here a couple of feet high, and lay on the ground below, all their +wheels in the air. The train came to a standstill, the coupling between +the wrecked and the unwrecked portions remaining intact. The Prince and +his staff were still inside. Heads quickly appeared through windows now +pointing to the sky, and the occupants of the front saloons, who had +hastily jumped out, learnt to their relief that nobody had been +seriously hurt. One after another the members of the Royal party, +including the Premier and other state ministers, were extricated through +the windows, now the only means of egress. + +While this was happening smoke began to issue from the first of the two +overturned saloons. Investigation showed that this was from the cooks' +galley, which, in falling, had set the saloon on fire. The flames were +promptly extinguished with water brought from the portion of the train +still upon the rails. Ten minutes later the Prince, who had declined to +move till he had collected his overturned papers, cheerfully climbed +out, being thus, sailor-like, the last to leave the wreck. He had been +talking to Admiral Halsey when the derailment took place, and was pinned +between overturned pieces of furniture when the coach rolled over, thus +escaping falling through the plate-glass window, a thing which occurred +to several members of the party, including the Premier. The only person +at all materially hurt, however, was Surgeon-Commander Newport, the +Prince's doctor, who cut his shin rather badly when he went through the +window, an incredibly small casualty list for the nature of the +accident. + +All the fittings that were movable flew through the air when the upset +took place. A large mirror in the Prince's compartment was amongst the +articles which crashed to the ground. The mix-up and disorder of broken +furniture, crockery and luggage inside was most complete. + +The Prince himself, at the time as later, made nothing of the matter. He +caught up a cocktail-mixer as he climbed through his overturned dining +saloon, and waved it out of the window by which he extricated himself. +He congratulated the Chief of the Staff, with mock seriousness, at +having at last arranged something for him that was not on the official +programme. He laughed away the anxious expressions of regret of the +railway and other state officials responsible in the affair, and did his +utmost to convey the impression that the overturning of the Royal train +was an occurrence so trifling as to be hardly worth mentioning. + +The party were soon transferred to the front portion of the train which +was still upon the rails. The wreckage was cut loose, and the journey +was continued to Bridgetown, the next halting place on the programme. +Here the Prince carried through, in the most undisturbed manner, the +whole of the prearranged ceremonial of inspecting guards-of-honour, +shaking hands with returned soldiers, greeting relations of the fallen, +receiving war-workers, reviewing assemblies of children, and replying to +a municipal address. He made no mention of the railway accident in his +speech, but excused himself for having arrived late, as if this had been +due to a fault of his own. + +It was not possible, however, to prevent the circulation of news of the +occurrence, and it made a sensation throughout Australia. Telegrams of +congratulation at his escape poured in from every state and principal +town. Thanksgiving services were held in the leading churches, and +everywhere it was recognized that what might have been a disaster had +been very narrowly avoided, and that the Prince had shown much spirit +in a situation of no little danger. His return to Perth was a triumphal +procession. Every wayside station was crowded with cheering people as +the train ran through. Perth received him with open arms. A bigger +assemblage than ever welcomed him as he drove from the railway station +to Government House, and the crowd plainly showed its impression that he +had taken a bit of rough luck in the best Australian manner. + +Finally departing from Perth, a few days later, the Prince was sped on +his way by large cheering crowds which not only lined the streets as he +drove to the railway station, but every wayside platform as well. The +route soon left the plain by the seashore and entered foothills clothed +with shady _jarrah_ forest. Thence it mounted to the spacious uplands of +the green rolling wheat-zone, where the young crop carpeted the expanse +for a hundred miles along the way. + +West Australia raises some twelve million bushels of wheat annually, of +which nine millions are exported. It is estimated that the out-turn could +be increased to forty million bushels if more population were available, +as thirty-four million acres have been reported suitable for wheat +growing in this state, and eleven bushels per acre are looked upon as an +average yield. A thousand acres, which can be secured on very easy +terms, is an average holding. Such a farm worked by one man would +ordinarily have three hundred acres under wheat, and would also support +two hundred and fifty sheep. Many properties of this kind are in the +hands of owners who began without either capital or education, yet have +paid off all mortgages and are living in very substantial comfort. The +children start under infinitely more favourable circumstances than +their parents, for not only are savings usually available to establish +them in business on their own account, but they have the advantage of an +excellent system of state-aided education which provides a school +wherever a minimum of ten children can be brought together. Public help +is also given to pay for qualified resident teachers in localities too +isolated to enable the minimum school to be assembled. A mileage +allowance is paid by the State for children who have to travel any +considerable distance to school. Education department correspondence +courses are also conducted with surprisingly satisfactory results for +the benefit of youngsters on farms out of reach of any of the other aids +to learning. It is not only the children who benefit. Their parents +often learn much themselves in endeavouring to help their families to +assimilate the lessons that the correspondence teacher at a distance is +sending by post to the schoolroom under the hayrick or by the evening +fire. + +An hour after leaving Perth the track picked up the Kalgoorlie water +main, which thereafter ran beside the rails, a half-buried steel conduit +thirty inches thick, all the way to the goldfields. This water main is +one of the most wonderful in the world. It daily delivers at the mines +five million gallons of pure water, after conveying it 350 miles from +the Mundaring Reservoir. This reservoir has a masonry weir a hundred +feet high, which has been built right across a river-valley, thereby +impounding the water and forming a lake seven miles long, holding four +seasons' supply. The difficulty of building the works was much increased +by the height up which the water has to be forced in the course of its +journey. In all, the pipe-line climbs 1,290 feet between Mundaring +Reservoir and Bulla Bulling, the highest point upon the circuit, a lift +which requires some of the most powerful pumps in the world to +negotiate. The installation is essential for the people of Kalgoorlie, +whose city is in the midst of the desert, with no other source of supply +fit for human consumption, as the water that accumulates in the mine +workings is definitely brackish, though cattle will drink it in some +cases. + +Fine rain shaded off into showers as the train proceeded eastward. +Further on grey skies were replaced by brilliant sunshine. The country +grew continually drier; wheatfields changed into scraggy forest. The +forest thinned out and was succeeded by vast expanses of nondescript +scrub and desolate bluish salt bush, through which the train sped +throughout the night. When the Prince awoke the following morning he was +in desert country. Coolgardie, his first stepping-off place, proved to +be a dying city. Its original sixteen thousand inhabitants are now +represented by only a few hundreds. The majority have moved to the still +active mines of Kalgoorlie. Many lie in France, for no community +enlisted more freely or fought more bravely than did the men of this +far-off town. All that were left had turned out to meet the Prince. It +was a curious assemblage, largely consisting of men past work and women +and children, who still cling to wooden shanties fast falling into +decay, amidst spoil heaps and ruins of fine public buildings, a great +place once but a sad spectacle now. The big water main enters +Coolgardie, and is sparingly tapped there, but its contents are too +precious to be used for irrigation by the way, and without water for +this purpose it was impossible for Coolgardie to follow the example of +Ballarat in turning its miners into cultivators when the gold gave out. +The shy buzzard of the desert now perches fearlessly where once was +heavy traffic. The wild dingo has come in from the plains, and makes its +home in what were once busy crushing mills and palatial business houses. +Soon sand will cover what remains, and the salt bush will be supreme as +aforetime. + +Kalgoorlie, where the Prince next alighted, proved to be a very +different place. Here twenty-four thousand people were living in +prosperity, and are likely to continue in this position so long as their +reef goes on yielding its harvest of yellow ore. The visitor was +welcomed by a big crowd, including a large body of returned soldiers, of +whom two wore the Victoria Cross. He was given a cheerful luncheon by +the Chamber of Mines, at which the large company present were waited on +by daughters of the principal residents, who prepared, cooked and served +a banquet which could not have been surpassed anywhere. In the course of +his reply to a civic address later on, "I am looking forward," the +Prince said, "to my stay in this wonderful goldbearing area. I have +heard with admiration of the pioneering pluck and engineering skill +which have enabled this great city to be built and provided with all the +necessary services of a large population in country where water is so +scarce. I particularly prize the opportunity of making acquaintance with +the people who have placed this miracle of development to the credit of +British industry and enterprise. I am also much interested in the +terminus of the great Trans-Australian Railway which links you with the +eastern States of the Commonwealth." + +Before leaving Kalgoorlie the Prince visited workings on the forty-foot +thick reef of the "golden mile" which is being gradually nibbled away. +This reef, since its discovery a quarter of a century ago, has produced +seventy-four million sterling of gold. The profit of working it has not +kept pace with the increased cost of labour and machinery, but continues +to be appreciable, and large masses of paying quartz are still in +sight. + + + + +XVII + +THE NULLARBOR PLAIN + + +At Kalgoorlie the Prince left the simply equipped three-feet-six-inch +gauge of the West Australian State Railway, and continued his journey, +at forty miles an hour, on a luxuriously fitted and smooth-running train +on the standard gauge of the Trans-Australian line. + +In charge of the train was Mr. Norris Bell, the eminent engineer who +controlled the construction of the line, and is now running it in such a +way that, despite almost total absence of local traffic, it is nearly +paying its working expenses, a remarkable achievement considering the +desolate nature of the country through which it passes. The railway +connects the populous States of Victoria, New South Wales and South +Australia, with the vast and potentially rich, but presently +undeveloped, western territories. It is one of those imaginative +national enterprises undertaken by young countries, and is bound to be +justified by the generous policy of land development which usually +accompanies, though at present it draws its dividends from the future. + +The Nullarbor plain through which it passes is so devoid of rain that it +not only possesses no streams, but its level expanse is unscarred by +even a dry water-course. It is almost absolutely flat for several +hundreds of miles, after which it undulates slightly, the folds being in +some cases occupied by lakes or tanks, most of which are so salt that +they are useless for either drinking or irrigation. Their banks form +desolate patches of gleaming white on the horizon, owing to the +crystallization of masses of salt upon them. In places where fresh water +is obtainable, it has usually to be pumped up from some depth below +ground. Wells are so far between that the train has to carry tanks large +enough to water the engine for two hundred miles without replenishment. + +The portion of the plain in which the Prince found himself, the morning +after leaving Kalgoorlie, was of red earth thickly sprinkled with white +stones of irregular shape, shaded by bunchy grey salt-bushes the size of +cabbages. These salt-bushes, dry and dusty as they appear, afford quite +good fodder for sheep. The plain, therefore, almost entirely rainless as +it is, only requires the provision of drinking-water to enable it to be +put to profitable use. Sheep-stations already exist upon it, wherever it +has been found possible to tap subsoil water sweet enough for the sheep +to drink, and with growing knowledge of this remarkable region, and +improved methods of purifying saline springs, it is hoped gradually to +convert much of what is now unproductive into sheep-raising areas. + +As the train rushed onward through the day, the stones became smaller +and eventually disappeared, and the salt-bushes grew gradually larger. +One lost the impression of moving through an interminable cabbage patch, +and felt as on a ship. The salt-bushes rippled over a calm expanse of +ocean extending on all sides to a far horizon. + +In the afternoon a halt was made and the Prince alighted and paid a +visit to a rude encampment of aborigines, who had travelled a hundred +miles on foot to meet him. They performed a number of weird ceremonial +dances before him, and gave an exhibition of their skill in the throwing +of boomerangs and spears. The performers were almost completely naked +men and boys, painted all over with red and other brilliant patches on a +whitish ground, whose only garment was a scanty rag of dirty cotton +cloth that could hardly be said even to encompass the waist. The dances +were slow, the performers sometimes stealing in single file round a +circle, sometimes springing as if to the attack, the while incantations +were chanted by miserable bundles of savage humanity, feminine as well +as masculine, who squatted upon the ground. The boomerang-throwing was a +much more lively affair. The air hummed with sharp wooden blades the +size and weight of reaping-hooks. About a dozen performers operated +simultaneously and each threw quite a number of these blades in quick +succession to immense heights, where they hovered like hawks, eventually +to descend with uncanny speed in a series of crooked swirls and +side-long rushes. The circles described were such that quite a wide area +was swept by flying blades each of which travelled on a complicated +orbit of its own, of extraordinary speed, the sharp edge continually +leading. It was explained that these boomerangs were of the hunting +type, and were used in practice chiefly against flights of duck, the +birds taking them for hawks and keeping low and thus within range +when they were in the air. The spear-throwing was also interesting. The +spears consisted of straight wooden shafts, like slim but heavy +bean-sticks, with a tapering charred point sharpened to acuteness, and +tail winged with a thin wooden slip the size of a biggish paper-knife. +These spears were thrown with marvellous force and precision, with an +action like that of overhand bowling, a sack stuffed with salt-bush +branches and crudely painted to represent a human face, being transfixed +again and again, in the centre, at sixty yards. These wretched people +appear to be rapidly dying out despite liberal grants from the +Commonwealth and State Governments to educate and feed them. In the +south they seem to be entirely incapable of learning even how to cook or +wash or build themselves shelters. In the north they are less degraded +and find employment on cattle-stations where some of them make excellent +stock-drivers, learning to ride well and handle animals. + +[Illustration: CROSSING THE NULLARBOR PLAIN] + +[Illustration: ABORIGINAL DANCE] + +The camp visited by the Prince was typical of the lowest amongst them. +It was being looked after by a cultivated Australian lady who was +devoting herself to the services of these poor creatures, who seemed to +be entirely dependent upon her, so incapable were they of fending for +themselves in any practical manner beyond that of adding to the larder +by the killing of a limited number of small animals. When left to +themselves, we were told, they seldom had more than twenty-four hours' +food supply within sight. Their intelligence does not even extend to the +keeping of provisions when supplied with them in any quantity beyond +what they can devour upon the spot. + +Another picturesque incident occurred about sunset, when the train +stopped at an artesian boring to take in a fresh supply of water. Here +some twenty well-conditioned camels were grazing upon the salt-bushes, +in charge of two intelligent natives of Rawalpindi, India. These +turbaned Punjabis, who spoke Hindustani with a distinct Australian +accent, so long had they been in the country, were marching the camels +overland to Western Australia, where they hoped to sell them at a good +price for transport work in the bush. The men had evidently prospered. +They said they had found Australia a good country, though they looked +forward to retiring eventually to their own land. Several Eurasian +children were with them. It was a reminder of those racial problems of +which the people of Australia take constant thought when they determine +to develop the natural resources of their wonderful land, as far as may +be, by white labour alone. It is no disparagement of the Oriental to say +that he is at his best when he is entirely of the East, just as the +white man is at his best when he mates with those of his own country and +race, a point upon which Australia, at all events, is thoroughly +convinced. + + + + +XVIII + +SOUTH AUSTRALIA + + +The Prince alighted at sundown at the shipping centre Port Augusta, at +the head of Spencer gulf, and was welcomed to South Australia by Mr. +Barwell, State Premier, and other members of the Cabinet. A civic +reception was held, and the party changed over from the standard gauge +train of the Trans-Australian Railway, into a train on the narrow gauge +of South Australia, which was standing in the station profusely +decorated for the occasion. A start was then made on the two hundred and +sixty miles that lay between that point and Adelaide, throughout the +whole of which distance, we afterwards learnt, a guard had been placed +on every bridge and culvert. The people of South Australia were in no +mind that the Prince should run the risk of further accident. + +Civic receptions, at which numbers of returned men and other war workers +were drawn up, and all the inhabitants turned out, were given at various +places _en route_, including Quorn, Peterborough, Terowie, and Gawler. +The first part of the way was over the picturesque Pichirichi pass, +thirteen hundred feet above sea level. After descending on the other +side the narrow gauge gave place to the broad five-feet-three-inch +track, which connects Adelaide with Melbourne. Sir Archibald Weigall, +Governor of South Australia, soon afterwards joined the train. The +latter part of the route was through flat and extraordinarily fertile +farming country. + +Adelaide was reached about noon. Here a large proportion of the +inhabitants of the province had assembled to welcome the Prince. A +procession was formed at the railway station, where guards-of-honour +were drawn up. The Prince shared a motor with Sir Archibald Weigall. Mr. +Barwell and other members of the South Australian Government occupied +cars behind. A well-mounted escort of light horse, in khaki, jingled on +either side. The entire route, some three miles in length through the +principal streets, had been elaborately decorated, and was lined ten +deep the whole way with cheerful crowds. Entering the spacious and +solidly built King George's Street, where magnificent bodies of Flying +Corps, Engineers, Naval Reserve, and other returned men kept the +barricades, the Prince was greeted by numbers of lady war-workers, in +fresh white uniforms, who had public-spiritedly reopened, for the +benefit of the blue-jackets and marines on the various visiting +war-vessels, the "Cheer-up club" which did such good service during the +war. Cadets, red cross workers, and masses of medalled returned men +lined the space opposite the town hall, where Mayor Moulder read a civic +address, to which the Prince replied, describing his now nearly +half-completed travels in the Commonwealth as a most memorable +experience, a statement heartily endorsed by all who shared them. From +the town hall the procession went on to the working-men's quarter, +where the reception was as enthusiastic as anywhere. It was also +noticeable that although only school-children, of whom there were +incredible numbers, lined the route for at least half a mile in this +part of the city, order was as well kept as in thoroughfares elsewhere, +where regulars or volunteers were lined up. + +Outside the big market in Rendal Street, beneath a wide arch built on +one side with vegetables, and on the other with apples and oranges, a +pretty function occurred, a little girl, daughter of the oldest gardener +doing business with the market, presenting the Prince with a bouquet, +and a small boy, the son of the oldest packer, with a basket of fruit, +offerings that symbolized pleasantly enough the very considerable +business done in South Australia in garden produce. + +Further on, in North Terrace, a more touching spectacle was presented +where hundreds of beds from the hospitals, each with a nurse in +attendance, lined the route, and the Prince paused for a word of +greeting with the patients. Medical students, apprentices, and yet more +cadets, were lined up near the fine stone buildings of the Art Gallery, +the University and the Exhibition, which are here grouped together. The +procession ultimately entered and ended in the quiet gardens of +Government House, where H.R.H. was to spend the week of his visit. + +Amongst functions which took place at Adelaide during the next few days, +was a state dinner at the leading hotel, at which three hundred sat +down, including everybody of importance in the South Australian +Government. Mr. Barwell proposed, and Mr. Gunn, spokesman of the Labour +Party, and Leader of the Opposition in the State Legislature, seconded +the toast of the Prince's health. The Prince replied and the proceedings +throughout were of the usual cordial nature. A climax was reached after +the dinner was over, and it was time for the Royal guest to get home to +bed. It was then discovered that the streets outside were so solidly +packed with people that it was quite impossible either for the +motor-cars to reach the door or for the party to walk to where they were +posted. The Prince was brought back into the building, whence he +addressed the crowd, at first from an upper window, and afterwards from +a roof on which he climbed so as to be nearer the throng. In the end, a +way out was found through a side street, by a door much affected by +bridal couples. + +In the course of his speech at this dinner, the Prince referred +sympathetically to the recent death of Premier Peake. He went on to +express appreciation of the welcome given him by Adelaide, "the garden +city of the Commonwealth," and dwelt upon the fine war-services of South +Australia, and the magnificent opportunities which this State offers for +development. He also mentioned the extent to which the future of +Australia, as a whole, depends upon a broad far-seeing railway policy, a +railway policy in fact "that is continental in scope." Continuing he +expressed regret at having been compelled to omit his originally +proposed overland journey from South Australia to Queensland, and +announced that, to make this up, it had now been decided, in +consultation with the Queensland Government, to substitute at least one +week in the back-blocks or interior of Australia, for the proposed visit +to the new mandated territory at Rabaul. "I am very sorry," the Prince +added, "to have had to cut out Rabaul, but as I had to choose between +the two I am delighted to think I shall now be able to spend some days +in seeing bush and station life for myself in the real heart of +Australia." This decision met with general approval. Rabaul stands for +the mandated territory of tropical New Guinea, formerly in German +possession, and now allocated to the Commonwealth. It is a territory +bigger than England and Wales but only sparsely inhabited, partially +developed, and with no specially outstanding features. No interest it +offers could compare with that of Australia itself. + +The next few days were busy ones, public functions succeeding one +another almost continuously, and acres of close-packed crowds assembling +wherever it was announced that the Prince was to be present. On one +occasion he unveiled a fine bronze statue of the late King Edward. On +another he conversed with an assemblage of blinded soldiers. One of the +most picturesque of his experiences was when four thousand women +war-workers, including nurses, members of Cheer-up clubs, +motor-ambulance drivers, comforts workers, and members of the Mothers' +League marched past him in solid battalions, many of them bearing +stripes indicative of five years' public service, and some the badge +which stood for son or husband killed at the front. The scene of +enthusiasm will long be remembered when he told them he hoped that they, +like the diggers, would all look upon him as a comrade. It was a thing +he said often but never too often. + +The Prince also made expeditions into the surrounding country, which +has a climate like that of Italy, the vineyards climbing the terraced +hills around Adelaide enhancing the resemblance. He here made the +acquaintance of the Australian wine industry, which continues to prosper +and expand, despite the new and devastating form of drought that +threatens it throughout the world. The difficulties of the trade are +considerable. The Australian is not himself a wine-bibber. His +intoxicant is whisky and his stimulant is tea. Withal he is a very +temperate person. No great home market, therefore, is at hand for the +native wines, and in spite of an excellence in many brands which must in +the long run establish them, the European importer still shows only a +modified confidence in stocking them to the displacement of the better +known labels of Southern Europe. Six million gallons annually, however, +are being drunk somewhere. + +On the day of the Prince's departure from Adelaide, eight thousand state +school-children and forty-five thousand spectators said good-bye to him +in brilliant sunshine, on the Adelaide cricket-ground. From the +cricket-ground he proceeded to the University, where the degree of +D.C.L. was conferred upon him. Thence through large crowds, which had +waited hours for his passing, and greeted him when he appeared with +friendly shouts of "Good-bye, Digger," he went to the railway station, +and proceeded by train to Port Adelaide. Here a local civic address was +presented, and yet another large gathering of children, returned men and +war-workers cheered him. The Royal train eventually went on, down the +Port Adelaide main street, which was black with people, to the outer +harbour wharves, where Sir Archibald Weigall, Mr. Barwell, Mr. Moulden, +and other leading men of South Australia went on the _Renown_ and said +good-bye, the Prince ultimately sailing for Tasmania. + + + + +XIX + +TASMANIA + + +The Prince's reception at Hobart, Tasmania, was a great popular +occasion. Decorations had been kept up and renewed since the preceding +month, when the visit was originally to have taken place, and were still +imposing, while the crowds along the processional route, which was +several miles in length, were enormous. + +The Governor, Sir William Allardice, paid a ceremonial visit to the +Prince immediately the _Renown_ anchored off Ocean Pier. On landing the +Prince was received by Sir Walter Lee, State Premier, Major-General Sir +John Jellibrand, and members of the Tasmanian Government. On the pier he +inspected guards-of-honour of seamen and cadets, and shook hands with +five of Tasmania's eleven V.C.'s, including Sergeant McDougall, who had +been an inmate of a pulmonary hospital when war broke out, yet managed +to get to the front and came back with the most coveted distinction in +the army. + +From the pier the Prince was taken to one of the big dockyard sheds, +which he found filled with returned men, nurses and other war-workers, +including the venerable Mrs. Roberts, a well-known local figure, who +stood, a bent old lady in black, waving the Union Jack beside the +commandant. Many were the Mrs. Robertses, under different names, that +these ceremonial occasions produced. One learned to look for them, +figures full of years and honour, spirits erect in failing bodies, dim +eyes lit by the old torch, frail arms carrying on the old tradition. +Homage to Mrs. Roberts, war-worker, be her style married or single. She +is a symbol of the race. + +[Illustration: LEAVING PORT ADELAIDE] + +[Illustration: MOUNT WELLINGTON, HOBART] + +In this place the Prince was cheered in the lustiest manner, and was +presented with an illuminated copy of the Tasmanian muster-roll, also +with the gold badge of the twelfth battalion. Thereafter he was taken in +procession through the streets, where the crowd was so dense and anxious +to get near to him, that the pace had to be of the slowest. Nothing +could exceed the good nature of those who were pressing in upon the +route, however, which was well kept after the first quarter of a mile. A +civic address was read outside the town hall, where the Prince, whose +voice had given out, wisely abstained from straining it further by any +attempt to make it heard beyond the platform occupied by the Mayor and +Councillors. + +Later on he attended a big state luncheon. The speakers included the +Premier, who dwelt upon Tasmania's loyalty and warm-hearted devotion to +the Empire. He also referred to developments that will eventually +revolutionize the industrial and commercial future of the island, no +less than a quarter of a million horse-power being in course of being +tapped by hydro-electric installations. + +Mr. Ogden, the Labour Party chairman and leader of the Opposition in the +State Legislature, also spoke. He said the loyalty of Tasmania was not +to be measured by the population of this beautiful island, but was a +loyalty that extended to an Empire wherein the great gulf between rich +and poor would eventually be narrowed. The Prince was by this time too +hoarse to reply at any length. He managed to tell his enthusiastic +audience, however, that the chief thing he would have liked to be able +to say to them was how much he appreciated the reception given to him. + +The Prince's engagements during the two days he spent at Hobart included +a civic ball and races, an investiture and a big outdoor popular +reception, and witnessing the electric illumination of the city. The +last was especially interesting, not only as exhibiting what is probably +one of the most beautiful ports in the world, but also as an +illustration of one of the uses to which Tasmania's new hydro-electric +power can be put. The installation, which is connected with the overflow +of an impounded lake in the centre of the island, is rapidly +transforming this sleepy little State of the Commonwealth into a busy +industrial centre. Copper mines on the west coast are doing all their +smelting by this means. Hobart and Launceston drive their trams and +light their street lamps with the new power. Before the war the whole of +the zinc ore won from the Broken Hill mines in South Australia went to +Germany as a matter of course to be converted. Tasmania now handles much +and will presently handle all of it. Hitherto Australian downs have +grown the wool and Yorkshire looms have woven it. Presently Tasmanian +mills will perform the latter process, and so far as the Commonwealth is +concerned her fleeces will no longer make the journey across two oceans +and back, on their way to adorn and comfort the persons of her +population. From the manufacturer's point of view there are advantages +in isolation. Power, sugar and a liberal market have drawn the Cadbury +firm to Hobart, and foundations are already laid which will ultimately +prosper upon the sweet tooth of the Polynesian belle. The old Arcadian +days of Tasmania are gone with its colonial status. Its climate will +always draw seekers of ease in retirement, and its orchards will +remunerate their leisure, but the future of the State, under the +protection of the Commonwealth tariff, is industrial. + +The humorous inhabitants of its larger fellow States have a way of +calling the island a "flyfleck," but its importance in the Commonwealth +is out of all proportion to its size. The amenities it offers have from +the beginning attracted the settler with some liberty of choice, with +the result that Tasmania has contributed a large proportion of leading +men to the Commonwealth. It is also remarkable for the number of retired +members of the military and civil services of India amongst its +settlers, men who in their prime have borne heavy responsibilities, and +in their declining years are giving still commanding abilities to the +development of the land they have chosen to be their home. + +The Prince crossed Tasmania by rail at night, arriving the following +morning at Launceston, another seaport city of extraordinary scenic +beauty. Here he added to his tour one more experience of the entire +population turning out to welcome him in a city decorated from end to +end in honour of his coming. He stayed the night at the "Brisbane" +hotel, and attended a number of ceremonies. In the course of the +afternoon he inspected masses of school-children. The physical +impossibility of shaking hands with all the teachers in attendance +suggested the idea of inviting those of them who were returned soldiers +to do so, and it was surprising what a large proportion were able to +claim the honour. Another function was his meeting disabled men at the +principal hospital. These poor fellows gave him the wildest reception, +and the whole assemblage laughed most heartily when, on the invitation +of one of them, he flicked halfpennies in a "two up" game. Later on the +Prince climbed the beautiful Cataract gorge afoot, at a pace with which +the members of the Cabinet who were with him had all they could do to +keep up. He finished a long day with a visit to the Launceston races, +followed by a popular reception at the town hall, where ten thousand +people passed in procession before him. + +The following day H.R.H. returned to Hobart, the State Premier and other +members of the Government, including the Ministers of Lands and +Railways, accompanying him on the train. The inhabitants assembled and +cheered him at every passing station, while at the more important, +including Tunbridge, Parallah and Brighton, he alighted and participated +in civic receptions. The region traversed included a rich farming and +orcharding district, on which numbers of returned soldiers, some of them +belonging to the British Army, who are being given by the Government +precisely the same treatment as their Australian comrades, are being +started as farmers. The State not only supplies them with already +cleared and fenced holdings and necessary buildings, but finances them +on terms calculated to enable men without a penny of their own, beyond +their war gratuity, to become independent freehold proprietors within +ten years. One of the features of this admirable scheme is that the +settlement has attached to it an expert instructor, who is in Government +employ. Those settlers who have so far moved in have found a portion of +the holdings allotted to them already under crop, and some one at hand +to teach them how to apply their own labour to the best advantage. They +are being inducted into agricultural prosperity, in one of the most +perfect climates in the world, close to a railway, and in surroundings +comparable to those of Devonshire. One of them brought to show to the +Prince two prize sheep-dogs he had reared which he valued at a hundred +and fifty pounds. The Royal party left this spot regretfully, so full of +fair prospects for men who deserve all that can be done for them did it +seem. The number so far settled is not very large, but the Minister for +Lands, to whose initiative, resource and enthusiasm the success already +achieved is largely due, is hopeful that it will be possible to extend +it to all suitable returned men who present themselves. In this case +Tasmania should receive a signal increase in population, for nowhere in +the world have I seen a more cheerful outlook for the soldier who is of +the right type to become a farmer. + +The Prince was booked to spend the evening of his return to Hobart at +the Soldiers' Club, before going on board the _Renown_, which was to +sail at midnight. It was characteristic of the Tasmanians that the men +themselves remembered how trying this would be for him after his long +and strenuous day. They proposed, therefore, of their own motion, that +they should say good-bye to him on the wharf, and this was the course +ultimately adopted. It was a graceful act which fittingly terminated one +of the pleasantest visits of the tour. + + + + +XX + +QUEENSLAND + + +Accompanied by His Majesty's Australian Ship _Australia_, and two +destroyers, the _Renown_ made a fine weather voyage to Sydney from +Tasmania. After crossing the Bass Strait the course was close inshore +along the beautifully wooded hills of New South Wales, and boats laden +with people put out from the small whaling port of Eden to greet the +Prince. Loyal messages were also flashed from homesteads further up the +coast when the _Renown_ came in sight, transmitted by men, now back in +their homes, who had learnt to signal in France or Gallipoli. Entering +Sydney harbour, numbers of yachts and launches were found waiting in the +fairway to welcome the flotilla, the scene being almost as gay as when +the Prince first arrived at this wonderful port. The wharf also +demonstrated the interest felt in the arrival. It was loaded with people +whose cheers were undiminished as the Prince went his way to the +station, where he proceeded at once to entrain for Queensland. + +The rail journey northwards produced some of the most remarkable +experiences of the tour, experiences the more notable for occurring in +States where public sentiment is perhaps more markedly democratic than +anywhere else in Australia. The first stop of any consequence was at +the coal-mining town of High Street. Here the Prince was taken by car in +procession through decorated streets, lined with people twenty deep the +whole way. The objective was the neighbouring railway station of West +Maitland, where H.R.H. was to rejoin the train, and where he found an +enormous crowd of miners and their wives and children, who gave him a +rousing welcome. He shook hands with three hundred returned men, also +with a pathetically long line of mothers, widows, and orphans of fallen +soldiers, and he inspected a big gathering of school-children. + +A picturesque figure occupied a place in the crowd on the road between +High Street and West Maitland, a native Australian woman in flowing +robes, with a golden crown on her head, who was the head of a local +tribe of blacks. Standing beside her was a full-blooded son, who had +lost a leg in France, whither he had gone in company with white +squatters, amongst whom, prior to this, he had presumably been a +stockman. She added to her memories and her dignities a word with the +Prince of Wales. + +Beyond West Maitland the route passed through fine park-like country, +with wooded hills and cultivated valleys, plainly visible in the bright +moonlight which had succeeded a typically balmy New South Wales winter's +day. The train stopped and receptions were held at various minor +centres, including Murrurundi, a place full of the romantic associations +of a bygone generation, when this part of Australia was still a land of +bush, broken only by very occasional squatters' cabins and mining camps. +As the Prince stood on a gaily decorated platform outside the station +with orderly lines of returned men and neatly dressed lady war-workers +beside him, one's mind went back to wilder scenes, enacted many years +ago. A grey-headed man told how, on almost exactly this spot, a +bush-ranger had been shot, after long eluding capture with the help of +his sister, who was a waitress at the local drinking saloon, whence she +used to ride out to his hiding-place at night in the hills, upon a horse +borrowed from race-stables near by. In this way information and supplies +were communicated to him, the midnight journeyings upon the borrowed +thoroughbred not being brought to light until the time came round for +the annual race-gathering, when the mud and sweat of its condition +attracted attention. What became of the girl, my informant did not know, +but she was honoured in the story if not in the incident. + +Wallangarra, the border station between New South Wales and Queensland, +was reached the following morning, when the Prince again had the +modified excitement of changing gauges. Here he bade farewell to Mr. +Hodgson, who had acted throughout the tour in charge of the railways of +New South Wales. He was welcomed by a distinguished group of officials +representing Queensland, who came on board the train. The Premier, the +Hon. Mr. E. G. Theodore, was at that moment on public business in London +on behalf of the Queensland Government; the Governor, Sir Hamilton Gould +Adams, had recently retired. Their places were filled by Mr. Fihelly, +acting Premier, and Mr. Lennon, acting Governor, pending the arrival of +Sir Matthew Nathan from England. + +From the border the track climbed steadily to the top of a pleasant +wooded plateau, three thousand feet above sea level, dotted with rich +orchards and gardens, which are being opened up in increasing numbers +and of late at rapidly advancing land prices. It is difficult to realize +at first sight how the fruit-trees manage to take root. Some of the very +richest and most sought after plots are a mass of tumbled rocks amongst +which there seems room for nothing to grow, yet it is just amongst these +rocks that the very finest peaches and apples are raised. + +A newly constructed branch line carried the party to the returned +soldiers' settlement of Amiens. Here a cheerful crowd of some two +hundred Australians and British had assembled, accompanied by wives and +babies, the wives in a surprisingly large percentage of cases from +England, and the babies some of the healthiest looking imaginable. The +Prince would have liked to spend some time in this settlement, but an +inexorable programme hurried him away. He had time, however, to hear a +great deal about the felling, burning and clearing up of string-bark +forest, the fencing and ploughing of the land, also the planting of it +with fruit-trees of the finest stocks. He also saw a number of +comfortable bungalows each with the amenity of a roomy veranda, in which +the settlers live. Ten acres of good soil were considered a sufficiently +large holding to keep one man employed, and each place is arranged to +include this area, apart from rocky or water-logged portions. The +average out-turn of such a holding, when planted with suitable trees of +six years' growth, is estimated, with prevailing fruit prices, at L700 +per annum. Returned men, accepted by the local agricultural authorities +as likely to succeed on such properties, and irrespective of whether +they are from Australian or British units, are able to obtain advances, +as they may require them, up to a total of L625, against work done upon +their places. These advances are repayable in easy instalments, spread +over long series of years, at about five per cent. interest, which is +less than the money at present costs to provide. Most of the holdings, +when seen by the Prince, were only partially cleared and planted. The +men were hopeful of pulling through, however, until the trees should +come into bearing, their pensions and advances, eked out by the growing +of tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables, for which there appeared to +be considerable local demand at remunerative prices, being considered +sufficient to keep them. Once the trees come into bearing their owners +can reasonably expect to do quite well. The authorities estimated that, +in the ordinary course, a man should be able to pay off all indebtedness +within ten years, after which he would find himself the absolute owner +of an unencumbered property, capable of indefinite expansion by taking +up more land, and even without any expansion, sufficient to support the +settler and his wife and children in conditions of comparative comfort. + +The life on these holdings is in the open air, in a sunny climate, +without any extremes of temperature, amongst beautiful natural +surroundings, and in an atmosphere so bracing that these well-watered +uplands have long been utilized as a health resort. The breaking in of +the holdings is, no doubt, very hard work, and here the Government +advances make it possible to pay for help in the case of men unequal to +do the whole of it themselves. Once this has been done, the work that +remains, of cultivating, manuring, pruning, and spraying the trees, and +of picking and packing the fruit, is very much less strenuous; and for +those prepared for a life in the open air where country pursuits +replace the feverish interests of the city, the prospect seems almost +ideal. Certainly those we saw entering upon it gave the very pleasantest +impression. The man will, of course, do best who possesses those +qualities which make him the lender, instead of the borrower, of the +stump-puller, and the purveyor, instead of the buyer, of tinned luxuries +at the co-operative shop and packing establishment. For all, however, +there seems to be a living under conditions which must certainly be +considered favourable. + +The sun was getting low when the Royal train pulled up at Warwick, a +prosperous city in the breezy uplands of the Darling Downs two thousand +feet above the sea level, home of sheep, mixed farming and white-stemmed +forest trees. Here in the Central park, commanding a beautiful view of +blue distant mountains, the entire population had assembled and the +usual civic address was presented. + +I talked with two of the residents, both men from the Thames Valley, one +a doctor, and the other a chauffeur. They agreed in not even considering +the idea of going back to the old country. This part of Queensland, they +said, was a place where it was easy to make a living, an its warmth and +sunshine were delightful after the English winters of which so little +can be safely predicted. They would not admit that the summer was too +hot, or that the drought from which this part of Australia had only +recently suffered had been more than a very temporary setback in the +steady growth of continually increasing prosperity. + +The train halted for the night in open upland country, with delightful +bracing air, one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen +painting a clear evening sky. The following morning, in warm brilliant +sunshine, the track crept down the wooded slopes that gird in the +Darling Downs, and emerged in the rich cultivated Lockyer plain below. +Here fine red cattle were feeding down magnificent crops, six inches up, +of green luscious oats, the settlers considering that this somewhat +remarkable procedure increases the ultimate harvest of grain, by causing +the young plants to stool out. + +Beyond the Lockyer plain the route lay through the Liverpool hills +whence it descended, by easy gradient, to Brisbane and the sea. Not a +station, a village or a house upon the way, but was gay with +decorations. The inhabitants were out upon all sides, on horseback, in +buggies, in cars, or seated upon fence rails, every man of them hat in +hand, every woman and girl a-smile, every child wide-eyed with +excitement. Operatives cutting down trees, navvies shovelling ballast +upon the railway track, farmers plowing their fields, husbandmen pruning +their orchards, stopped work and saluted or shouted a welcome as the +train went by. Boys raced beside the Royal saloon in youthful endeavour +to keep up. Not a churlish glance, nor an indifferent face, was seen for +a hundred miles. + +Brisbane first presented itself in the shape of pleasant garden suburbs +full of wooden houses on stilts, each surrounded by a garden of flowers. +It developed, as the train rushed on, into the solid masonry of a +closely built city. The heartsome sound of cheering accompanied all the +way. Arrived at the railway station, H.R.H. was welcomed with every +formality. The State Premier, the whole of the Cabinet, the Mayor and +the city Council, received him on the platform. Naval and military +guards-of-honour were in attendance. The usual procession of motor-cars +was ultimately in motion, and carried the visitor through several miles +of streets, in which elaborately decorated arches, made of wool bales, +fruit, vegetables, and corn-sheaves, gave homely, delightful, convincing +character to their setting. Crowds lined the entire route and gave the +Prince a welcome the warmth of which was equal to that of any he had +previously received. The way was kept by returned men, and long lines of +women war-workers, including nurses and helpers of every kind, formed a +solid wall of white on either side of the route for at least a quarter +of a mile. + +In the Albert Square Mayor Maxwell read an address of welcome. At the +University pretty girl-students, in black caps and gowns, raced one +another across the grounds to get a second view of the Prince after they +had stood demurely at attention as he went past. On the grassy slopes of +the wide Domain beside the river, backed by an assemblage of ten +thousand delighted school-children, the Prince reviewed the men who had +been keeping the route through the city. To render this possible every +detachment had closed up and followed the procession after the cars had +passed. In this way were gathered some two thousand men representing +every arm of the service. The designations of the First, Second, Third, +Fourth, and Fifth Australian Divisions were in evidence on the flags +carried past the saluting point. + +Another interesting occasion during the visit to Brisbane was the local +agricultural exhibition, which never, in the long history of this +popular institution, had been so crowded, the principal stores and +other business establishments having all been closed in honour of the +occasion. The proceedings began with a procession through the wool, +wheat, sugar-cane, fruit, butter, cheese, pig, and cattle exhibitions +halls, the Prince and members of the committee making slow progress in +the crowds of cheering spectators. The afternoon was devoted to a parade +of prize-winning cattle and horses. This was held in a big +amphitheatre--seventy years ago the crude "Bora," sacred initiation +ground, of Queensland savages, now the beautifully turfed show-ring of +the National Agricultural Association. Here, in the presence of some +seventy thousand spectators, the Prince saw some very fine jumping, not +devoid of minor mishaps. He himself ran to help to pick up a girl whose +mount came down at one of the fences. By this time it will be noted that +it was impossible to keep H.R.H. out of any kind of incident not +strictly arranged for. He also assisted at an attempt, not the less +interesting because it just failed of success, to lower the mile +trotting-record of the track. + +Leaving the show in the afternoon, the Prince proceeded, in company with +the acting Premier and the Lieutenant-Governor, to Farm Park, where he +took tea upon the grass with the Mayor and Aldermen of Brisbane, in the +midst of thousands of spectators. So closely was the civic tea-table +surrounded that the red cross nurses, to whom fell the duty of waiting +on the Royal party, scarcely had room to perform their functions. The +number of cups and spoons and other articles that became heirlooms in +1920 for the benefit of Australasian posterity must be considerable. The +Prince was eventually extracted from the crush, and embarked, amidst +much cheering and hand-clapping, upon one of numerous decorated +motor-boats which took him, attended by a flock of yachts, across the +wide Brisbane river, in the yellow sunset, on a visit to invalid +soldiers in the fine "Anzac" Hospital on the other side. + +Another notable function in Brisbane was the state dinner, at which +representative men from every part of Queensland were present, some four +hundred sitting down. The Prince was between the acting Premier and the +Lieutenant-Governor. The Papal representative, Monsignor Cattaneo, +occupied a seat on the other side of the Lieutenant-Governor. Others +present included the Anglican Bishop, the members of the State Cabinet +and the Legislative Council, and the Chief Justice. The streets outside +were densely packed with people, who became so insistent in cheering +after the Prince had got inside that he left the banquet to wave to them +from the balcony. Mr. Fihelly, in proposing the toast of the evening, +emphasized that their Royal guest had endeared himself to all with whom +he had come in contact, and had been found to be "a man of parts, a man +of ability, able to take his place amongst men, and one who would carry +away with him the goodwill of all the people of Queensland." + +Mr. Vowles, Nationalist Leader of the Opposition, spoke in similarly +loyal tone. The Prince rose to reply amidst cheers, and developed his +points in a voice which his hearers noticed had now recovered its +clearness and resonance. In the course of a long and enthusiastically +received speech he dwelt upon the wonderful reception he had had, the +pleasure his visit had given him, and especially on the large part taken +in the receptions by returned sailors, soldiers and women war-workers. +Referring to the soldier settlement he had visited on his way to +Brisbane, he congratulated the Queensland Government on the foresight +and energy with which they had tackled the repatriations problems. "You +cannot do too much," he said, "for your diggers, who played such a big +part in saving the Empire, and who should be looked upon as the backbone +of the Commonwealth.... My tour in Australia, alas!" he continued, "is +nearly over. It is particularly to the future of the Commonwealth that +my thoughts turn. My visit to Australia has taught me that the spirit +wherein your diggers volunteered, and fought and won, is not something +unique or out of the way, which will never happen again, but the natural +outcome of a national spirit which is going to make Australia one of the +great progressive nations of the world. Their free and gallant services +in the war have shown to yourselves, to the Empire and to the world what +you are and what you can do. With such a spirit in its men and women +Australia has a splendid future in its grasp. I came to Australia +already feeling a strong bond of comradeship with your troops: I shall +leave it feeling even a stronger bond of comradeship with the Australian +people as a whole, and my heart will always be with them in their mighty +task of building up the solid British fabric of freedom, justice and +security with fair play for all upon this vast continent." + +Another of the Brisbane functions was a popular reception in the public +gardens overlooking the river. Here some thousands of people passed +before the Prince, who stood upon a dais, the acting Premier beside him. +Girls presented bouquets of flowers. Men and women stopped to wish him +good luck on his homeward voyage, or to photograph him at close +quarters. Here and there an old-fashioned curtsy would be dropped, or +cheering or hand-clapping started. The great majority of the people +expressed themselves in a simple nod or smile, or waved hand or hat or +handkerchief as they went by. One could not help recognizing, not only +that they had taken the Prince to their hearts, but that while paying +him the great compliment of ceasing to treat him with formality, there +was no diminution in the deference that was shown. When he left the +reception he went back to his quarters in Parliament Buildings, where, +marching up and down, were armed cadets in full service kit, volunteers +from districts it had not been possible for the Prince to visit, their +expenses all paid by local subscriptions. There was no serious necessity +for the services of these young warriors, but they represented the +universal determination of North-Eastern Australia that "our Prince," as +by this time he had begun to be called, should lose nothing of pomp or +Royal circumstance while he remained the guest of their State. + +Before the Prince left, Monsignor Cattaneo, Apostolic Delegate, and the +Very Reverend M. Duhig, Catholic Archbishop of Queensland, asked and +obtained an interview at which they formally presented "the homage and +devotion to the throne of the whole Catholic community of Australia." +They dwelt upon the deep loyalty of this community and declared that the +Prince had won all their hearts. + +In the course of his visit to Brisbane H.R.H. was shown State factories, +State shops, State insurance offices, and State markets in full +operation, a class of enterprise under experiment in natural conditions +so favourable as to give it at least a sporting chance. He also heard +much of the sugar-cane, coco-nut-palm and banana plantations, and the +enormous cattle ranges of the northern territories where Queensland +rolls away into the tropics and there is rich land and to spare for a +population as large as that of France. + +Leaving Brisbane one day during his visit to that city, the Prince +proceeded by train through a well-wooded country of rich black soil, +just then a quagmire from heavy but welcome rain. He touched at a number +of centres, including Ipswich, head-quarters of woollen mills and +coal-mines, and Harrisville and Boonah, country towns where farming and +pastoral communities predominate. Every stopping-place had been +converted by unpaid local labour into a beflagged forest of greenery, in +the midst of which the inhabitants of the entire neighbourhood, also +many from far distant stations, had assembled. At Ipswich the streets +were lined by operatives and miners, and the welcome of this important +place included a car procession through decorated streets, a popular +reception, a mayoral address, and a civic luncheon served to the strains +of one of the largest and best trained choirs in the State. Vocal music +as the accompaniment of food was an unaccustomed luxury to many of those +present, but it did not appear to interfere with the general appetite. +At Boonah the proceedings were simpler but not on that account less +impressive, although they took place in a pelting rainstorm. The Prince +waded through an ankle-deep stream of flood-water to an exposed +platform, where, surrounded by a crowd of squatters, stockmen, farmers +and their families, including large numbers of women and children, all +standing in the downpour with streaming mackintoshes and umbrellas, he +unveiled a fine marble war-memorial bearing three hundred names. He also +shook hands with relatives of the fallen, and with numbers of returned +men, nurses and other war-workers. + +On the way back to Brisbane further centres were visited. Amongst them +were Maryborough, a manufacturing and coal-mining city, where the steel +skeletons of two twelve-thousand-ton steamers, under construction for +the Commonwealth Government, towered amidst the decorations. One of the +arches was surmounted by a group of blacks in native costume, armed with +bows, arrows and spears, which they wielded realistically. Another +carried a dozen diggers in uniform. Other places visited were Tiaro, +where the assemblage that greeted the Prince consisted chiefly of +agriculturalists; Gympie, where the returned men, assembled in a +war-memorial park, included gold-miners as well as farmers; Cooroy, +where the Prince made the acquaintance of a large logging community; +Landsborough, where sugar-cane planters, and banana and orange-growers +preponderated, and Beerburrum, Queensland's biggest soldier settlement, +where he shook hands with a large number of returned men engaged in +growing pineapples. + +The Prince finally left Brisbane amidst unforgettable scenes of national +enthusiasm and emotion. The entire population of the city seemed to be +in the streets. The neighbourhood of the railway station was blocked by +masses of cheering men, women and children. The railway station +buildings were besieged, the more influential folk, including the +members of the State Government, and their families, thronged the +platform. The general public crowded windows, balconies, culverts, +overbridges, and fences, wherever a glimpse of the train could be +obtained. The start had to be three times postponed, so many were the +Prince's personal farewells. After the train got into motion, motor-cars +raced beside the track, school-children were found lined up at wayside +crossings, stumps and telegraph poles were perching places for daring +climbers. Everybody waved something, if it were not a handkerchief, a +flag or a hat, it was the nearest thing to hand. I saw a vegetable +hawker wildly flourishing his biggest cabbage, a housewife excitedly +using a tablecloth as a signal of affection, a company of railway +carriage-cleaners throwing their dusters upon the wind. Workmen in +overalls, carters with teams of horses, stockmen riding to their duties +stopped and doffed hats as the train went by. "Old Lang Syne" was taken +up, again and again, by thousands of voices, to be itself drowned in a +chorus of shouted "Goodbyes." All the Members of the Cabinet travelled +upon the Royal train as far as the border of the State. The acting +Premier had to stay behind for urgent public reasons, but was so +determined not to be left out of the proceedings that he attempted to +follow the train in an aeroplane, and was only stopped by crashing +heavily. The demonstration was so remarkable that even the Queenslanders +themselves were astonished at it. Enthusiasm had taken possession of +this democratic people, and there seemed to be no length to which they +were not prepared to go. Here was a country where the people are as +sovereign as anywhere on earth. Yet wayside villages and towns on the +southward journey, one after another, took up and repeated Brisbane's +farewell demonstrations. The crowds at the railway stations, where +addresses were presented, included in many instances definitely more +people than the entire population of the immediate centre, this being +due to farmers, squatters, and settlers bringing their families +incredible distances by train, by motor, in buggies, or on horseback, so +that they might not miss the occasion. In one case four well-mounted +girls galloped astride nearly a mile, keeping abreast with the train, +and arriving at the next station, where an address was to be read, just +as the Prince alighted. Their spirited ride secured them a handshake and +a compliment. + +The train halted for the night at Toowoomba, in the heart of a wonderful +agricultural region, which was found smiling under splendid crops. Here +the countryside had long been preparing for the Prince's coming, and the +celebrations were of the liveliest, everything, including decorations, +gathering of returned men, civic banquet, and ball, being planned to +create a record. + +The following morning the Prince recrossed the border, over a carpet +woven of yellow wattle flowers. It was a pretty thought and offered him +much. + + + + +XXI + +THE JACKAROO AND OTHERS + + +When the Prince left Queensland he had practically completed his +official tour of the Australian States. There remained for him the +improvised series of visits to the back-blocks of New South Wales, which +took the place of the abandoned journey to New Guinea. Here he stayed in +the houses of squatters, some of them controlling sheep-runs hundreds of +thousands of acres in extent, and mingled in the most informal manner in +country life and country pastimes. In the wonderful air of this region +he regained much of the spring and energy he had lost in the preceding +months of strenuous official touring. The Government officers on the +Royal train meanwhile returned to Sydney. + +The route taken by the Prince after leaving Wallangarra for the interior +lay through beautiful scenery across the famous Blue Mountains. One +looked out, as the train climbed upwards, across vast stretches of +green-forested gorges and grey crags of fluted limestone, with purple +and aquamarine ridges on the far horizon--a land filled only with the +colour and the form of wild nature. The Prince started on the foot-plate +of the engine, which he drove himself up a one-in-thirty-three grade +slope. Although his journey was now entirely unofficial, numbers of +people assembled and cheered him at the principal stations. At Lawson he +alighted and shook hands with returned men, including Private Duncan +Allan, the oldest soldier in the Australian forces. Later on, crossing +the open Bathurst sheep-downs, a halt was made at the wayside station of +Kelso, where horses were in waiting and he took, in the rain, a brisk +ride across country, rejoining the train that evening at Bathurst. + +[Illustration: THE BACKBLOCKS: AN UNOFFICIAL FIXTURE] + +[Illustration: HIS FAVOURITE MOUNT] + +The following morning the train reached Coonamble, terminus of the +railway, a township of wooden houses, situated on a vast grassy plain, +in the heart of sheep-raising country, two hundred and sixty miles from +Sydney. Here Mr. Oliver, President of the Shire, accompanied by the +local mayor and members of his council, received the Prince upon the +platform, and conducted him in a motor-car procession to a grassy park +in the middle of the town, where he found awaiting him a large +assemblage of people, including the usual contingents of returned men +and school-children, also nurses and other war-workers. An address was +presented, and thereafter the procession was continued to the +racecourse, where horses had been collected. The Prince and his staff +mounted and set off across recently flooded country for Wingadee, thirty +miles distant, where the week-end was to be spent at one of the stations +of the Australian and New Zealand Land Company. Lunch was served in the +open at one of the artesian bore-holes that furnish this country with +water, even the severe drought which preceded the recent floods not +having affected the supply. The Prince here visited a typical bush +saloon and in bush fashion called for drinks for all the settlers he +found there. Later in the afternoon he reached Wingadee, where he was +received by Mr. McEwan, General Manager of the Company. He spent the +afternoon riding about this up-to-date station and going over the +wool-sheds. The host of his visit was Mr. Fechan, the Superintendent. + +In the next few days the Prince rode a number of horses, inspecting the +wool-sheds and flocks, chasing kangaroos and emus, and had the +opportunity of forgetting the formalities of public receptions. On the +day of departure from Wingadee he rode thirty miles back to the little +country racecourse at Coonamble, where he remained throughout the +afternoon watching the racing in the casual mud-splashes of his own +ride. The enclosure was crowded with squatters from all parts of +Northern New South Wales, who gave him the most cordial reception, and +followed him afterwards to the railway station to cheer the train by +which he left for Myowera, another small station sixty miles distant in +the same great plain. + +Here the Prince stayed on the Canoubar run in the house of Mr. and Mrs. +McLeod, Mr. Niall, managing director of the company, supervising the +arrangements for his entertainment, which were on the most hospitable +scale. At Canoubar he saw the working of a big sheep station in full +operation, including shearing, sheep-drafting, wool-packing, and the +driving of flocks by wonderfully trained dogs, also the handling and +breaking-in of station horses. One of the merino rams shown to him had +recently been bought for two thousand five hundred pounds sterling. As +to the performances of the dogs, the confiding correspondents were told +that they could drive a fowl into a jam tin, but I am not aware whether +H.R.H. was asked to believe this. On the afternoon of his arrival he +rode nine miles, much of it along natural avenues of gum-trees, to the +country town of Nyngan. His host accompanied him, mounted on his fine +steeple-chaser Bullawarra, once sent to England to run in the Grand +National. + +At Nyngan the entire countryside was found assembled and the Prince met +a large company of returned men, besides relatives of those who would +not return, nurses and other war-workers. All the school-children of the +neighbourhood were also there. The programme included the laying of a +foundation-stone, after which he rode home escorted by a bodyguard of +light-horsemen, who gave a display of bush-galloping a mile outside the +station. + +Next day H.R.H. was made acquainted with the Jackaroo. The Jackaroo is +neither a crow nor a parrot nor any kind of quadruped. He is a young +gentleman of Australia who desires to become a squatter, and who gives +his services on a sheep-run for the opportunity of picking up the +business. He was living, where the Prince encountered him, with, half a +dozen of his fellows, in a comfortable building with roomy sleeping +quarters and an old soldier in charge of the mess. His food is plain but +substantial and appetizing, a leading feature of it, the slab of +"brownie" bread, full of currants, which tells its own tale of his age +and digestion. The Jackaroo spends most of his day in the saddle, riding +long distances to outlying parts of the run, on the hunt for bogged +sheep, or in supervising lambing or moving flocks from one paddock to +another. Often he will not see a living soul from the time he starts out +in the morning until he returns at night, and he may even lose his way. +He then makes a bee-line in the likeliest direction until he comes to +the wire fence of the boundary, which he may follow for miles before he +reaches a landmark he knows. The speedometer of one car which had been +out on fence inspection the day before the Prince arrived, marked 120 +miles, travelled in a single day, so it may be presumed that the +Jackaroo's bump of locality develops early. The squatter is generally +glad to take on likely boys, as he finds them, when the first +fecklessness is worn off, on the whole more conscientious than paid +labour, an important point for work that has to be so largely delegated. +The life is healthy and interesting, and on up-to-date runs like the +ones seen, looked exceedingly pleasant. The young fellows come as a rule +from families of good class and generally have means of their own--a +combination which should make the life history of the Jackaroo not +unrewarding to the student of the fauna of these parts. His own point of +view would have been worth obtaining, but being young he was modest and +said little. He rode buck-jumpers for the Prince. He buck-jumped rather +specially well, as might be expected of a Jackaroo. His name is a +felicity that will outlive much topography. One wonders who invented it. + +The Prince on several occasions shared in the sport of kangaroo chasing, +which leaves fox-hunting standing. On one occasion he rode all day +guided by sons of his hosts through vast paddocks fenced with wire, over +an even carpet of young green grass, which was then just springing up +after floods following three years of drought, and took many a jump over +fallen trunks of trees killed by systematic ringing to make way for +fodder raising. On the way thirty or forty kangaroos were seen and five +of them were chased over formidable obstacles which the "old men"--the +male kangaroos--cleared with extraordinary ease in their long hopping +stride, at a pace that took greyhounds all they could do to overtake. +These kangaroos eat sometimes by no means an inconsiderable amount of +pasture needed for the sheep, and some years ago were being so +extensively shot down that they were in danger of being exterminated. A +close season was introduced and now they are increasing to the extent, +in some localities, of again becoming troublesome. They are much the +colour of the tree trunks, and until startled are easily overlooked in +the bush. They are off with most wonderful grace and agility the moment +they are disturbed and can even clear the high barbed wire fences by +which the runs are bounded provided they approach at a right angle. When +running parallel to the fence they cannot get the necessary foothold for +a big enough spring. This is sometimes taken advantage of by the rider, +who, being of course unable to put his horse over so formidable an +obstacle, endeavours to head off the kangaroo in such manner that it may +reach the fence at a slanting angle. In this case the chase continues +alongside instead of being finished by the kangaroo's escape over the +fence. When overtaken by dogs, which are often used in the chase, the +kangaroo makes a gallant fight for life, and many a hound has been +ripped open and killed by a well-directed kick from its powerful hind +feet, before it can be shot. + +The emu also lent itself to the excitement of the chase during the tour. +The big brown wingless bird much the size and shape of the ostrich, is +quite unable even to jump, but runs as fast as a horse can gallop, and +when pursued will charge a barbed wire fence so hard as to break its way +through, its feathers protecting it from being seriously torn. It is on +this account not beloved by the squatter, but it is seldom shot. The +Prince brought away with him two newly hatched emu chickens, creatures +the size of ducks and prettily marked in shades of black and fawn. Their +quarters on the _Renown_ were in a roomy cage on the superstructure, +where they soon established a reputation as quiet, sober and +well-behaved members of the ship's company. + +On several of his expeditions the Prince was given a meal in the bush +camp fashion. One of these was on the shady banks of a stream +twenty-five miles from a station, from which he had ridden out in the +morning accompanied by sons of his hosts. Here quantities of dead +gum-tree trunks were quietly burning, and were made use of for grilling +chops and making billy tea. The latter is quite unlike and, to the +hungry rider, infinitely preferable to the teapot variety. A tin-can is +filled at the nearest water-hole and is carried to a burning tree trunk, +on which it is gingerly balanced, usually with the aid of a stick, the +tree trunk being as a rule too hot to reach without one. The water boils +with extraordinary rapidity and the pot is quickly hooked off the fire. +A generous handful of tea is thrown into the water before it ceases to +boil and the resultant brew is drunk from any utensil that happens to be +handy. Nobody inquires what becomes of the tea leaves. + +One of the sights on the Canoubar run was sixty thousand sheep recently +returned from stations in well-watered districts, in one case five +hundred miles distant by rail, whither they had been sent to stay over +the years of drought. These sheep had all been carried by the state +railways of New South Wales, at extraordinarily low rates, and with +surprisingly few casualties. They offered a concrete example of what had +been done on a very large scale throughout the State, where the railways +were able to save for the squatters hundreds of thousands of valuable +sheep, which must otherwise have perished when the fodder supply gave +out. The Prince was so interested in what he saw that there was no +getting him away before dark. By the time he was back in the station he +had ridden over sixty miles without leaving the run. + + + + +XXII + +AMONGST THE SHEEP + + +Within the memory of men who have not yet reached middle age, +sheep-rearing in Australia was a gamble. At one time large fortunes +might be made, at another the fruits of long years of thrift and labour +might be swept away by causes which appeared to be outside human +control. Now the industry has become a science. The settler may make +more or he may make less, according as the world price for wool is high +or low. He has his welfare in his own hands, however, and has only to go +the right way to work to make certain of a living. + +The removal of the rabbit-pest has been particularly complete. The +Prince saw wire fencing, extending in some cases in unbroken stretches +for thousands of miles, which is at once so high and so deeply embedded +in the ground that rabbits can neither burrow beneath nor climb over it. +Once a paddock, fenced in this way, has been cleared it remains +permanently free. The principal measures for clearing are the systematic +ploughing of every warren, which effectually stops the burrows, and +thereafter the driving by dogs and horsemen of such rabbits as are above +ground to the fences, where covered pits, led up to by long converging +lines of wire netting, have been prepared in advance. The rabbits +follow one another through drop entrances into these pits, thousands +being sometimes captured in one night on a single run. The operation has +only to be repeated, in one paddock after another, to free an estate +completely. The value of the rabbits and their fur covers most of the +cost involved. One may meet gigantic crates on wheels, each drawn by a +dozen horses and sometimes containing twenty thousand rabbits, _en +route_ to factories where the skins are cured and the flesh prepared for +export. By these means many runs have been completely cleared, while +others are in course of being similarly dealt with. + +As regards methods of fighting drought, in addition to the help given by +the railways in moving sheep from drought-infected areas, to regions +where the grass has not dried up, the storage of fodder in good years to +make up for deficiency in bad ones, is a further measure adopted. +Artesian borings, even where they are inadequate for irrigation +purposes, will water millions of sheep where the surface supply is +defective. + +It was at one time feared that the tapping of the subsoil water over +tens of thousands of square miles in New South Wales, where the +geological formations are such as to render this class of enterprise +remunerative, would gradually exhaust the supply. Experience over a +number of years, including prolonged periods of drought, however, has +not confirmed this apprehension. The Prince was shown wells which had +been running for twenty years without intermission. In some cases, it is +true, fresh borings have had to be made, but it has been discovered +that the failure of the old ones is almost always due, not to any +deficiency in water-pressure below ground, but to the silting up or the +corroding of the pipe itself. Fresh bores yield full supplies, close +alongside those that have given out. Restrictions are rightly imposed by +Government upon the sinking of more than what is considered a reasonable +number of wells in any one area, and up to the present, in the entire +sheep region visited by the Prince, this arrangement has allowed +sufficient supplies to be forthcoming for the watering of all stock, +even in such periods of prolonged drought as that from which this part +of Australia had very recently emerged. + +Minor enemies of the squatter are the black carrion crows, creatures +justly execrated by every back-block man. They are not unlike English +rooks, but have the diabolical habit of attacking sick sheep and +newly-born lambs, not infrequently pecking out their eyes. They are also +charged with poisoning the wounds they make, so that a sheep may die +which appears to have been only very slightly pecked. The harmless +looking galahs, white parrots with pink breasts, make themselves only +one degree less objectionable by eating the grain. Both of these pests, +however, are being got under, with the growth in the number of sportsmen +with scatter guns in each district. The Prince shot several galahs, and +if his bag did not include any carrion crows this was chiefly because +the good work of shooting them had already been so efficiently done. + +Another trouble of the squatter, the silting up of his fences with +leaves and dust in the hot weather, until they disappear and sheep and +cattle stray over them unimpeded, is also being successfully overcome. +On one estate enormous machines like snow-ploughs were shown, which were +periodically pulled by horses along the windward side of fences subject +to this mishap. Floods come only occasionally, but the squatter has +declined to allow himself to be defeated by them. The Prince saw the +bones of many a stray sheep that had been drowned in the last visitation +of this kind. It is indeed extraordinary that such a thing should occur +upon a table-land two thousand feet above sea level, where rain is +ordinarily so scanty that drought is continually feared. The very rarity +of heavy rain, however, makes the conditions such that the water-courses +may be inadequate to carry off any sudden downpour, with the result that +the flooding, when it does occur, may easily be very extensive, as the +country for hundreds of miles on end is almost absolutely level. +Motor-cars have been used successfully to convey thousands of sheep, +three or four at a time, from flooded areas to banks where they could +exist until the water subsided. In other cases boats have been brought +from incredibly distant rivers to carry stock to safety. Much has also +been done upon men's backs, for the squatter does not allow his sheep to +perish if anything within human strength can help them. + +In this part of Australia the grass is so thin that from two to five +acres are required to support each sheep. This accounts for the immense +size of the runs, which extend in some cases to hundreds of thousands of +acres. One of the results of so much grazing space is that epidemics are +almost unknown. On one of the runs the Prince took a hand, with +power-driven clippers in sheds, where one man shears, on the average, +more than a hundred sheep in a single day, the wool fetching up to +twenty-two pence a pound. Fleeces so ticketed indicate the neighbourhood +of the wool millionaire, and he was to be met in all stages of opulence. +A run carrying fifty thousand sheep, each yielding a profit of ten +shillings in the year for wool alone, is by no means uncommon in this +part of Australia, men who had established themselves in pre-war days, +in quite a modest way, upon land leased from the State, not infrequently +finding their incomes multiplied a number of times over as the rates for +wool increased. The greater part of these profits has remained in the +country, and much of it has been put into the development of the runs, +and the improvement of the breeds of sheep, horses and cattle on them. +In one of the stations a five-thousand-pound bull had recently been +bought, and cows were valued at a thousand pounds apiece. On another, +three rams were shown to the Prince which were considered to be worth +six thousand pounds, being an average of two thousand each. + +The methods of development adopted varied according to the financial +position of the owners. A squatter with a long-established run who had +paid off his mortgages, and had money in hand, would ordinarily keep +more sheep upon a given area than his less prosperous neighbour, for the +reason that he could afford to move them by rail in years of drought. +The man more recently established, with whom money was not so plentiful, +would keep his land more sparsely stocked. In one case only six thousand +sheep were being raised, though the run would have supported twice that +number in an ordinary season. Here the owner did the whole of the +routine work of the place, with the assistance only of his two eldest +sons, lads in their 'teens, and occasional hired hands for shearing and +fencing. + +The run possessing the five-thousand-pound bull was worked upon more +expensive principles. It employed highly paid managers, overseers and +stockmen all the year round, and was regarded as so up to date in its +methods as to be quoted as a state model of efficiency and a sort of +competitive Elysium for jackaroos. Both methods of working seemed to be +successful, and both estates were making money. + +The heavy drop in wool prices that is now taking place will no doubt +reduce the amount of the profits presently to be made. There is no +reason to apprehend, however, that the industry will not adjust itself +successfully to the new state of things. Fortunes in the future may be +harder to make than in the past, but the necessaries of life are assured +to all engaged in an industry so self-supplying as is that of +sheep-farming. The area suitable for it is still practically unlimited, +and the open-air life it offers will continue to attract young fellows +anxious to get away from the confinement of the town and the office. + +As regards the climate, all that I can say is that as far north as the +Prince's travels extended, the winter conditions then prevailing were +delightful. The nights were sharp, and the days full of sunshine, and of +a temperature that induced to outdoor work of every kind. Never have I +seen healthier looking people than those who make this part of the world +their permanent home. The children that the Prince found assembled in +surprising numbers at every stopping-place, were sturdy and well +developed. That the summers on these breezy uplands are sometimes hot +was testified to by occasional underground chambers constructed so as to +afford shelter in the middle of the day. Every one agreed, however, that +the nights were cool, and the health and longevity of the community +phenomenal. The interesting claim was also made that the very warmth of +the sun in summer was itself an important factor in keeping down disease +alike in men and sheep. + +The lowlands along the coast of Northern Queensland, where such tropical +staples as sugar-cane, plantains and coco-nuts are grown in quantity, +were hardly reached, though Brisbane, the most northerly seaport visited +by the Prince, was upon the outer fringe of this important region. In +Brisbane the climate was distinctly hot, though the inhabitants looked +strong and full of health. Further north, where the temperatures grow +higher, we were told that numbers of Italians are settling in and doing +well. They have found conditions not altogether dissimilar from those of +their own country, and are developing labour able to deal to some extent +with the difficult problem of sugar-growing. + +On leaving Myowera the Prince proceeded by train to Sydney. On the way +civic receptions were held in his honour at a number of centres. He +stopped off at Dubbo, where white-dressed V.A.D.'s, each with a wand of +yellow-flowering wattle, made a bower over his head as he passed from +the railway station on the usual inspection of returned men. At +Wellington he found a crowd waiting to cheer him beneath flowering +orchards shivering in wintry rain. Blayney, although situated upon the +chill slopes of the Canobolas mountains and said to be the coldest place +in New South Wales, produced amongst its guard-of-honour a cavalry +officer from India in the turbaned uniform of the Fifteenth Lancers, who +had returned to his home in Australia when peace was declared. Another +place visited was Bathurst, where a procession through the town took +place, and where the decorations and receptions were on a very extensive +scale. In the course of his reply to a civic address, presented in this +city, the Prince said his visit in the interior had given him a glimpse +of real Australia. He had seen the richness of the country and had +learnt the desolation that drought and floods could produce. "Many," he +added, "have suffered losses, and while sympathizing with their hard +fortune, I trust the next few years may be years of plenty and bring +them all they desire." + +On arrival at Sydney the Prince went at once to the _Renown_. Later in +the day, his official tour having ended, he drove unescorted to the +races, which he enjoyed like any private individual. The courtesy of the +large gathering of race-goers was such that, although everybody wanted +to see him, and much cheering took place, the stewards had no difficulty +in preventing any inconvenience. + +Before finally sailing, the Prince spent four days in Sydney, saying +good-bye to his friends, and receiving them in the _Renown_, which he +made his home. Amongst those he entertained were the Commonwealth +Governor, the Prime Minister, the New South Wales Governor, the State +Premier, and the principal Commonwealth and State Officials. His staff, +meanwhile, was kept busy receiving and dispatching his replies to a +mountain of warm-hearted farewell messages, of which the following, from +M. Fihelly, acting Premier of Queensland, and head of the most advanced +Labour Government in Australia, may be taken as a sample:-- + + "Your Royal Highness's visit will always be gratefully and + affectionately remembered by the Government and people here, who + found the greatest delight in your presence amongst them, and who + will henceforward regard you as a new link uniting the British + peoples. We hope your Royal Highness will have a safe and pleasant + homeward voyage, and that long life and uninterrupted happiness and + good health will be yours. You came to our land as His Majesty's + most effective ambassador to us and we ask you to be our envoy to + him, bearing renewed assurances that the lofty ideals which inspire + our race are a living active force in Australia to-day." + +Amongst the individual replies dispatched by the Prince perhaps one of +the happiest went to the Royal Australian Navy, which, after expressing +thanks for escorts and other services, and wishing good luck to all, +ended with the characteristic request that the main-brace might be +spliced. + +In his general farewell message His Royal Highness said:-- + + "I am very sorry that my first visit to Australia is at an end, and + I wish on leaving to express my deep appreciation and gratitude to + the Government and people of the whole Commonwealth for the + pleasure and happiness which they have given me during my all too + short stay. I have been deeply touched by the open-hearted + affection shown to me everywhere, and I hope that Australians have + realized how much the warmth of their welcome has meant to me. It + has made my first visit an experience which I can never forget and + which will always bind me to Australia as a real southern home. + + "Throughout the Commonwealth I have been impressed by the fact that + the Australian people as a whole have just the same free and + gallant British spirit at home which the Diggers showed so + splendidly during the war. Australia has appealed to me + intensely as a land where British men and women may make a new + nation as great as any nation of the past, and I shall be heart and + soul with them in their aims and efforts all my life." + +[Illustration: EMU ON A SHEEP-RUN] + +[Illustration: GOOD-BYE TO SYDNEY HARBOUR] + + "I refuse to say good-bye. I have become so fond of Australia now + that she can never be far from my thoughts, wherever I may be; and + I look forward most keenly to the time when I shall be able to + return." + + "My affectionate best wishes to her people, one and all." + +The last official function attended by the Prince in Australia was an +investiture at Government House, Sydney, at which he conferred the +following decorations on behalf of the King:-- + + On Major-General Sir C. B. White, Commonwealth Organizer of the + visit, and Rear-Admiral Grant, Senior Officer of the Commonwealth + Naval Board, the K.C.V.O.; on Brigadier-General F. H. W. Lloyd, + Brigadier-General Dodds, Commonwealth Assistant Organizer, and + Commodore Dumaresque, commanding the Australian Fleet, the C.V.O.; + on Captain the Hon. B. Clifford, Military Secretary to the + Governor-General, the M.V.O. + + The following officers, who were in attendance during the Royal + tour, also received the M.V.O.: Colonel F. B. Heritage, + Lieutenant-Colonel Lionel Robinson, Captain J. G. Duncan Hughes, + and Captain R. James, and it was also conferred upon the following + organizers of the Prince's visit in various States: Mr. Clifford + Hay (New South Wales), Mr. Whitehead (Victoria), Mr. Blinman (South + Australia), Mr. Steer (Queensland), Mr. Shapcott (West Australia), + and Mr. Addison (Tasmania). + + Royal Victorian medals were also conferred upon seven motor-drivers + who had been in attendance throughout the tour. + +Every newspaper throughout Australia meanwhile made the Prince's +departure its leading theme, the illustrated journals teeming with +pictures connected with his going. The Sydney "Daily Telegraph," on the +day of his leaving, said: "At high water the _Renown_ will carry the +Prince through the Heads, on the first stage of his homeward journey. +The Prince himself goes away on another high tide--of popularity and +goodwill." + +"If ever there was danger," the Sydney "Morning Herald" said, "of +Australian opinion being misinterpreted through the utterances of a few +noisy and churlish malcontents, it has been dissipated once and for all +by the Prince's experiences." + +On the 19th August the _Renown_ weighed anchor in brilliant sunshine, to +the sound of music, cheers, and salutes, every headland lined with +people. Flotillas of crowded steamboats raced alongside her as she made +her way to the Heads where the Prince's letters overtook him in a fast +Australian destroyer, which had picked them up from aeroplanes +dispatched especially from Adelaide. As a final courtesy it was a happy +touch, and if the _Renown_ had been a sailing ship would have cheered +her on with airs from home. + +The Prince's visit was over. The unanimity and cordiality of his welcome +everywhere had been a revelation even to the people of the land, who in +the clash of local political creeds had hardly realized before how deep +and universal was their feeling of citizenship in the Empire, or how +warmly this feeling would manifest itself towards one who came to them +standing for that Empire and asking only to learn the glory of +Australia's part in it. + + + + +XXIII + +EASTWARD HO + + +After leaving Sydney the _Renown_ made a record run, much of it at +twenty knots an hour, to catch up time. The Prince thus arrived at Fiji +punctually to his programme, in spite of having been delayed at Sydney +waiting for the mail. He landed at Suva, where he was received as +cordially and by as large and picturesque a gathering as had greeted his +first arrival at this port. His visit was informal, but he attended a +civic reception in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, followed by a ride +across country which was not without excitement. The party at one point +were on a narrow hill road, with a bank on one side and a steep drop on +the other. The Prince was in front when they reached a tree-trunk which +had fallen across the way, leaving no room to get past. H.R.H. +dismounted and scrambled over with his horse in lead. The Secretary to +the Governor, who was immediately behind, endeavoured to get across +without leaving the saddle, but his animal slipped in landing and went +over the edge. Its rider, although crippled by the loss of one leg, +managed to throw himself off upon the brink, where he clung precariously +while his horse went crashing through the bushes thirty feet beneath +him, rolling over and over as it fell. The Prince was the first to get +hold of his companion and help to pull him back unhurt into safety. +Oddly enough, the horse was able to carry him home, when eventually it +had scrambled back to the road. + +The Prince rode for some hours after this incident, dismounting on the +way back, and doing the last eight miles on foot at a swinging pace. A +dinner and dance at Government House finished up the day. + +The _Renown_ sailed from Fiji the following day. On reaching Samoa she +lay in the open roadstead, facing misty hills, among which rose steep +green cones of long-dead volcanoes. In the middle distance white-crested +waves flicked their tails with a vicious curl in a leaden rain-flogged +sea, which ended in a white line of breakers where the red roofs of the +town of Apia met the beach. The Prince went off in a bounding launch, +accompanied by Colonel R. W. Tate, the administrator. A mile of rough +and tumble brought the friendly shelter of the reef. Here a number of +long low Samoan canoes, with some forty semi-naked paddlers apiece, met +the launch and escorted it with shouting and beating of wooden drums, as +big as bath-tubs, past the rusty skeleton of the German _See Adler_, +wrecked upon the bar in the hurricane of 1899, to a quiet wharf, where +the Prince landed in a bower of greenery and bunting. He was received by +the principal people of the island, including the Chief Judge and other +officers of the New Zealand administration, also a number of +missionaries. Addresses of welcome were presented and the Prince was +conducted on foot over carpets of brown mulberry bark to the reception +by the Islanders themselves. Lines of smiling Samoans, naked save for +loin-cloths of mat and bark and necklaces of crimson pandanus pods the +size of fingers, lined the route and brought deep cries of +"Aue!"--"Welcome!"--from the bottom of their lungs. The procession was +slow and imposing. It ended in a grassy space beneath green coco-nut +palms and white-flowering leva trees. The Prince took the seat of honour +in a decorated booth, surrounded by thousands of Samoans, many of whom +had travelled long distances from their homes by canoe. The ceremonies +began with the presentation of a series of Samoan chiefs, including the +"High Intercessor," Malietoa Tanumafili, brother of the late King +Malietoa Laupepa, and the venerable Tuimale Fana, friend of Robert Louis +Stevenson. He is a sturdy, upstanding figure in the photograph in +"Vailima Letters," broad-faced and well covered and content. That was a +quarter of a century ago. Now the years have bent and dulled him. The +years, and perhaps the loss that dulls the world, for Tusitala tells no +more tales to any of us in this South Sea Island where he lived and +where he knew so well he would die. One thought, if he had been living +now, how glad a hand and how rich a memory would have been added to this +journey, and how brimming a cup of Imperial romance the _Renown_ would +have lifted to Stevenson's lips. But Tusitala could not come to the +Prince; so the Prince went to Tusitala, where he lies on the hill-top +that meets the winds from the sea, and stood there for a while beside +him. + +This was later. The Samoan ceremony of welcome was long. The +presentations extended to a bevy of island ladies garbed in frilled +creations of bark, relieved with hibiscus blossoms, as scanty at both +ends as a ball dress out of Bond Street. The High Chief Intercessor +afterwards read an address of welcome in which he declared that God had +been the Prince's helmsman in bringing him to Samoa. A move was +afterwards made--there is no other way of describing the respectful +suggestion, the start, the progress to an official fixture--a move was +afterwards made to a thatched hut where the Prince tasted Samoan +dainties spread out upon mats upon the floor. He also saw articles of +Samoan manufacture, including delicately carved wooden Kava bowls, mats +so fine that some of them were valued at a hundred pounds, and _tappas_, +lengths of soft mulberry-bark cloth painted with many patterns, worn by +the men, quite decorative in effect though not exactly pliable enough to +suit a West End tailor. + +Returning later on to the booth further ceremonies were successfully +encountered, including the preparing and drinking of King's Kava. +Semi-naked warriors, in head-dresses like hay-trusses ornamented with +variegated Berlin wool and pieces of looking-glass held in place by +skewers, chopped and pounded white Kava root, macerated the resultant +pulp in a beautifully carved hard-wood bowl the size of a foot-bath, +with water brought up in solemn procession in a galvanized iron +housemaid's bucket, strained the concoction in a Samoan mat, and carried +it to the Prince in a carved cup of coco-nut. National dances, +participated in by both men and women, followed and a one-legged chief +from one of the neighbouring islands read a further address of welcome. +Offerings were here presented, green coco-nuts, pigs roasted whole, +masses of bark _tappas_ and mats. + +The sea had gone down when the Prince re-embarked, and except that the +war-canoes accompanied the launch right out to the _Renown_, the +ceremonies of departure were much like those of arrival. + +The visit occurred opportunely at a time when these rich islands of +coco-nut and banana plantations were slowly settling down under New +Zealand administration after a long period of uncertainty during the +war, followed by a much-dreaded influenza epidemic, which had swept away +a terribly large proportion of their attractive and easy-going +inhabitants. European residents said the Prince's coming was having an +excellent effect. It was already looked upon as fulfilling the Samoan +prayer that Great Britain should "remember this small branch of the +great tree of Empire." It was treated as an omen. "Healthy are the +travellers," declared one of the addresses, "We now meet with +success"--and in islands so swayed by emotion, picturesque expressions +of this kind no doubt indicate some corresponding reality in feeling. + +After leaving Samoa the _Renown_ called at Honolulu, where the Prince +spent three days quietly, surf-riding and golfing, his experiences being +largely a repetition of those of his visit to the island on his outward +voyage, except that there were no official ceremonies. He stayed at the +Moana Hotel as an ordinary visitor, dividing his time between the +beautiful Waikiki beach and the country club. Nothing could exceed the +kindness, hospitality, and consideration extended not only to the +Prince, but also to the entire ship's company of the _Renown_ by +Governor McCarthy and other Hawaiian residents, who, while scrupulously +respecting the Prince's desire that the visit should be without +functions, did everything imaginable to render it as enjoyable as +possible. The arrangements included drives around the island and other +entertainments for every officer and man of the _Renown_. + +On leaving, the Prince issued a press note expressing his appreciation. +"I was delighted with Honolulu on my outward voyage," he said, "and most +grateful for the kind welcome and generous hospitality given me by the +Governor, Mr. McCarthy, and every one. I always feel happy amongst +Americans and in American territory, because American life appeals to me +greatly, and I have many American friends--especially since my short +visit to the United States last year, when I was deeply touched by the +most friendly reception accorded me." + +The whole white population of Honolulu assembled on the wharf when the +_Renown_ cast off. Before leaving the Prince had been presented with the +usual farewell offering of ropes of flowers, which he duly flung +overboard, in accordance with immemorial Hawaiian custom, as the ship +left the shore, in token that his friendship remained with this pleasant +island though he himself was compelled to depart. As the ship cleared +the harbour searchlights were played upon the Waikiki beach where so +many enjoyable hours had been spent. + +Crossing the northern Pacific the _Renown_ touched Mexico, where +Acapulco harbour, a deep, sheltered pool amongst hills of ferruginous +rock and verdant jungle, held the ship for a day. On one side were the +square, flat-topped bastions of the fort, with ancient muzzle-loaders +pointing black mouths out of stone embrasures, muzzle-loaders which were +fired quite recently at the late President Carranza's gunboat, the +_Gerriro_, when it was shelling revolutionaries ensconced in the +red-tiled city that climbs up the steep slope behind the wharf. + +The fighting was described to us in broken English by Mexican traders +doing business in dark verandahed houses opening out of the narrow +streets. It had surged up and down the town in the form of desultory +rifle-fire between the followers of Carranza, who were in occupation, +and those of the insurgent rebel leader, Avaro Obregon, who eventually +drove them into the interior. Carranza's gunboat simultaneously +disappeared to sea. No great damage was done in the town. All that we +heard of was the looting of shops, which did not appear to have been on +any very considerable scale. After the firing had ceased, the civilians, +who had mostly hidden themselves in the hills, returned and reopened +their places of business. + +At the time of the Prince's visit the walls of Acapulco were plastered +with rough zincograph prints of Avaro Obregon, a soldierly looking +Mexican, whose election for President was voted upon the Sunday before +the _Renown_ put in to that port. Nobody doubted that he would be +declared elected (as has since been the case) for the excellent reason +that no other candidate had been even heard of at Acapulco. In the +disorder so long in the ascendant the entire port has fallen into decay. +Dark-skinned loungers, in white cotton shirts and trousers, bare feet, +and gigantic straw sombrero hats, smoked cigarettes upon benches beneath +plantain trees in the central square. In the market-place were tethered +mules with high-peaked saddles, also doing nothing and enjoying it. A +couple of small bells rang out intermittently from a big Catholic +church with corrugated iron roof, but the only worshipper inside this +draughty place of worship was a guide, who seemed to be returning thanks +for unaccustomed profits brought to him by the royal visit. The planks +of the empty wharf were so rotten that one had to walk warily to avoid +mischance. + +On the beach were a few light fishing boats, one of which was engaged in +taking out three of the Governor's A.D.C.'s through the fine but +deserted harbour to pay his respects to the Prince. The Governor, these +gentlemen explained, was ill or would have been with them. The British +and United States consuls came to the ship, where they were entertained +to lunch. + +The Prince afterwards landed and went for a walk ashore, while the +_Renown_ took in oil-fuel. Bumboats with scarlet sails, presided over by +dusky ladies in black robes and tumbled hair, hawked bananas, melons, +earthen pots, sombrero hats, Mexican swords, coloured blankets, and +other locally manufactured articles, to the blue-jackets. + +An old missionary in the faded uniform of a captain of the Royal Navy, a +rank he once had held, also visited the _Renown_. He had recently +arrived by mule from Mexico City, some six hundred miles distant. The +road is steep and rocky, but by no means unsafe. The railway, which is +ultimately to connect Acapulco with Mexico City, though partly torn up, +is still in working order for nearly half the way. It may some day +shorten the mail route materially between Europe and Australia. The bags +would be carried overland from some American port on the Atlantic and +re-shipped at Acapulco for the trans-Pacific voyage. Business had not +been altogether suspended in Mexico City, banks remaining open and +motor-cars plying in the streets. + +Little was known in Acapulco of the personality of Avaro Obregon, except +that he had been a successful revolutionary leader. It was hoped he +would prove strong enough to hold his own and put down disorder, thereby +enabling prosperity to return to this much-vexed country, but fighting +in Mexico, as in Ireland, is a temperamental gift and hard to lose. + +The _Renown_ put out to sea in a sharp electric storm. Warm tropical +rain came down with insistent hammer, and lightning from all sides at +once threw up the coast in brilliant outline, and illuminated an +enormous crucifix upon one of the headlands, by which Drake may have +steered in his pursuit of Spanish galleons three hundred years ago. + +The passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, on the return journey, was +quickly accomplished. The _Renown_ arrived at Panama at daylight, after +an uneventful voyage from Acapulco. She was received by the American +authorities, who fired a salute of welcome. The Canal was entered +without a stop, and was traversed smoothly and in record time for so big +a vessel. Every lock was clear and every possible facility was afforded. + +Dredgers were still at work at the slip which had delayed the _Renown_ +on her outward voyage, but an almost magical change had been effected in +the interval by the removal of a million cubic yards of rock and earth. +What had been a narrow, tortuous channel in June, had been converted by +September into a spacious pool, where to the casual glance six _Renowns_ +could lie side by side. The hillside above looked as unstable as ever, +but no fresh land-slips were visible, and even if they occur hereafter, +as is to be expected, the canal has space to accommodate considerable +subsidence without interfering with vessels getting through. + +At the Gatun locks the Prince went off by launch, in company with Mr. +Markham, the pisciculturist of the Canal, who succeeded in showing him +some Tarpon fishing. He got back at a late hour, muddy but radiant, with +quite a catch, and re-embarked upon the _Renown_, which was then moored +alongside the Christobal wharf at Colon, taking in oil. H.M.S. +_Calcutta_ was also there, and the two vessels put out to sea the +following morning. + + + + +XXIV + +THE WEST INDIES + + +An epidemic in Jamaica abridged the West Indian part of the tour, but +the _Renown_ visited several of the other islands, beginning with +Trinidad, where the flotilla anchored three days after leaving Colon in +the quiet roadstead off Port of Spain. Here Sir John Chancellor, +Governor of the Island, came on board to pay his respects to the Prince, +who shortly afterwards landed. + +The entire city of Port of Spain had been effectively decorated. +Sugar-cane-stalks, cocoa-pods, and coco-nuts, were worked in cleverly +upon arches, spanning its substantial streets, to represent the +agriculture of the Colony. The other main Trinidad industries, asphalt +and oil, were well in evidence in the smooth surface found upon the +roads along which the Royal procession passed. The crowds lining the +route were made up in fairly equal proportions of negroes, East Indians, +and persons of mixed or "coloured" race. Few Europeans were seen until +the Legislative Council building and the Town Hall were reached, where +they were in considerable numbers. Those presented to the Prince +included Messrs. De B. Best, Colonial Secretary, H. B. Walcott, +Controller General, A. G. Bell, Director of Public Works, L. +Elphinstone, Solicitor-General, Colonel Mui, Commandant of the Local +Forces, Major Rust, acting President of the Civic Council, Rev. Dowling, +Catholic Archbishop, Dr. Ansley, Anglican Bishop, Sir Alfred Smith, +Chief Justice, also Justices Russell and Deane, and Father de Caignai, +Head of the Tunapuna Monastery. + +The official address, read by the Governor, made special mention of how +much the island owes to the British Navy, and the Prince in the course +of his reply also dwelt upon this matter: "You have well referred," he +said, "to the security enjoyed by Trinidad during the Great War, in +which the people of this colony contributed in worthy measure to the +victory of British arms. I am particularly glad to have this opportunity +of congratulating the colony upon its fine services, and of meeting some +of the gallant men whom it sent overseas. I am also much pleased to hear +the colony appreciates how much it owes to the Royal Navy for its +tranquil prosperity during those terrible years." Touching upon more +local matters, the Prince said the colony had given a high measure of +prosperity to those whose forbears had made it their home. It had also +provided new opportunities for progress and well-being for a large +immigrant population from His Majesty's Indian Empire. "I feel sure," he +added, "that all its people, not only long established but recently +arrived, will do all in their power to maintain its good traditions of +law-abiding progress and loyalty to British ideals." + +The Prince spent several days in Trinidad, driving through its thickly +wooded hills, past shady cocoa plantations, well-ordered coco-nut +groves, and fields of sugar-cane. He also visited the old-time Spanish +capital of St. Joseph, where an address was presented to him. He +attended in Port of Spain a state dinner and various other official +functions, besides inspecting a big gathering of children. In the course +of his remarks, replying to the toast of his health at the state dinner, +he said, "I saw a suggestion, before I left England, that the British +Empire might be willing to part with one or more of the British West +Indian Islands to a foreign power, and I should like to say here again +what I said in Barbados in March, that British subjects are not for +sale. I can assure you that the King and all of us in the old country +have very much at heart the welfare of Trinidad and all the British West +Indies, also of all other British possessions," a statement which cannot +be too often repeated in sentiment or exemplified in fact. + +Visits were paid to some of the oil-wells, which are already a source of +much wealth to Trinidad, and promise to become still more important in +the future. The famous pitch lake was a sight along the coast, +forty-five miles out. It is a semi-solidified deposit, lying in a +shallow hollow, a quarter of a mile in diameter, close to the sea, where +men have been digging out black slabs of asphalt for years without +making a perceptible hole. The lake is so near the coast that ships sail +practically up to it to carry away a product which is ultimately spread +over the streets of the world. Fifty thousand tons have been taken out +of it every year for a generation, and the level is estimated to have +sunk only about nine inches. Oil underlies the pitch in the vicinity and +a forest of derricks rises a quarter of a mile away. + +From Trinidad the Prince made a side trip to Demerara, British Guiana, +in the _Calcutta_, the _Renown_ being too big to cross the bar into +Georgetown harbour. All the sunny richness of this steamy sugar and +rice-growing corner of South America was in evidence when he landed at +Georgetown, immediately after the ceremonial visit of the Governor, Sir +William Collet. A fine West Indian guard-of-honour saluted him upon the +pier, and mixed crowds of Anglo-Saxons, negroes, East Indians and +Portuguese cheered in the decorated streets as he proceeded to the +Government buildings. Here more guards-of-honour were inspected, +including armed constabulary and militia. The Prince also shook hands +with a long line of returned men. Entering the building he found the +leaders of the local community assembled, including the principal +officials and their families. An address of welcome was read by Mr. +Brown, a coloured West Indian, senior elected member of the Court of +Policy. Archbishop Parry and General Rice were amongst those presented. + +In the course of his reply the Prince referred to the great potential +wealth of British Guiana and to the determination of its inhabitants to +develop their inheritance to the full. It was essential, he added, that +all parts and sections of the community should pull together loyally, in +order that their future might be assured, and particularly that the +great inland wealth of the colony might be laid open for the benefit of +all. He hoped their ex-service men would prove themselves as +public-spirited and useful citizens in time of peace as they had on +active service in the field. + +Two days passed in Demerara in the enjoyment of the hospitality of +the Governor and other leading residents. Visits were paid to a +largely-attended race meeting, to sugar and rice estates in the +swampy flats around the city, and to some very beautiful botanical +gardens, where the schools of the colony were assembled, and the Prince +passed down dense lines of negro, East Indian, and European children. + +[Illustration: SAMOA MAKES MERRY] + +[Illustration: TRINIDAD: IN THE DRAGON'S MOUTH] + +As the _Calcutta_ put out to sea ten thousand musical West Indian voices +on the Georgetown wharves joined with the light cruiser's band in the +strains of "Auld Lang Syne." Probably never in the history of this +important British outpost in South America has patriotic sentiment held +more undivided sway or the fact been made more clear that the hearts of +its flourishing inhabitants still turn faithfully to the old country. +Its people are looking to England at the moment with some hope, as well, +of that co-ordination of Imperial resources of which British Guiana +stands so much in need. The labour question has never before been so +acute. The recent abolition of the long-established Indian indentures +system, and therewith the cessation of immigration from India, has +synchronized with enormous increases in world prices and world demand +for the sugar which Demerara is so pre-eminently qualified to provide, +and for this more labour is wanted. + +The same question arises in connexion with new industrial developments, +now on the eve of fruition, which must add enormously to the position +that agricultural produce has already won for this colony. These will +come with the exploitation of vast deposits of bauxite-alumina, that +promise expansion of world-wide significance in connexion with steel +manufacture, into which this comparatively new mineral is entering +increasingly. The position, at the time of the Prince's visit, appeared +to be that a million sterling had been spent by an American Company upon +machinery and shipping and railway facilities for handling the ore, and +that its effectual arrival upon the market was only a matter of time. + +That an American Company should be spending such a large sum in the +development of natural resources in British territory, was not the least +interesting feature of the situation. It is to Anglo-American +co-operation that Demerara and also the British West Indies must look +increasingly for brains, initiative, and capital for the development of +natural resources which are as yet by no means fully utilized. + +The Prince returned to Trinidad through still steamy seas. Dawn on the +day after leaving Demerara found the _Calcutta_ passing the rocky +portals of the narrowest of the three channels which make up the famous +"Dragon's Mouth" entrance to the roadstead of Port of Spain. The shore +on the landward side of this entrance was dotted with pleasant +verandahed villas and fresh-tilled fields, signs of the civilization +which is pushing back the forest in all parts of the island. + +On reaching Port of Spain the Prince visited H.M.S. _Calliope_, a light +cruiser just arrived from the north. He also paid a farewell visit to +the Governor, and inspected the local fire brigade. In the evening he +returned to the _Renown_, which shortly afterwards heaved up her anchors +and left harbour for Grenada. + +At St. George's, the principal town of Grenada, the Prince landed on the +sheltered cove of Carenage, upon a decorated wharf on which was drawn up +a guard-of-honour of the West Indian regiment beneath the stone bastions +of an old French fort. He was received with every formality by the +principal officials, headed by Sir George Haddon-Smith, Governor of the +Windward Islands, Mr. Joyce Thomas, acting administrator of St. Vincent, +Mr. Herbert Fergusson, Colonial Secretary, Mr. E. Laborde, Colonial +Treasurer, and Sir Thomas Haycroft, Chief Justice, also the heads of the +local Anglican, Presbyterian, Methodist and Catholic Churches. +Thereafter, up steep streets decorated with flowery arches, beneath the +clanging bells of numerous churches, through smiling, bowing, cheering +crowds of cheerful West Indians and their gaily dressed women and +piccaninnies, he was taken by car to the colonial Court-House, where the +leading residents were assembled. He entered through a shaded courtyard, +where he shook hands with a number of returned men and officers. The +address was read in a low-ceilinged legislative assembly room, with wide +French windows commanding a wonderful view of city and harbour. + +In the course of his reply the Prince said the strength and spirit of +the British Commonwealth could not be fully grasped by anyone without +first-hand knowledge of the British Dominions and Colonies. "The more I +see of the King's world-wide possessions," he added, "the more deeply I +am impressed by the strength of the sentiment which binds them to the +Empire and the throne"--the truth of which was testified to by every +street he had passed through. + +The Prince was afterwards taken by motor into the interior, through some +of the most luxuriant vegetation in the world, past cocoa and nutmeg +plantations, up two thousand feet into the mountains, about the +forest-shaded depths of the circular lake of Grand Etang, the crater of +an extinct volcano. An official lunch and a garden-party at Government +House filled up the day, which ended with a reception given by the +Prince on the _Renown_ to the principal residents of the island. + +Leaving Grenada at daylight the _Renown_ threaded her way through the +clustering Grenadine Islands and past the steep twin green cones of the +inaccessible Piton peaks, and anchored near the Pigeon Rock--Admiral +Rodney's eighteenth-century naval base. + +The Prince, accompanied by Sir George Haddon-Smith, who had come on with +him from Grenada, landed at Castries at noon, where he was received by +Colonel Davidson-Houston, Administrator of St. Lucia, supported by Mr. +Anthony de Freitas, Chief Justice, and other members of the Executive +Council. St. Lucia's special arch was of coal, token of the colony's +importance as a West Indian coaling-station. From under it His Royal +Highness proceeded through decorated streets, the entire population of +which had assembled to welcome him. The first stopping-place was in +Columbus Square. Here, in the warm shade of big coco-nut palms and mango +trees, a thousand children were drawn up, each school flanked by +teachers, many of whom wore the black cassock of the Catholic Church. + +The Prince afterwards climbed a hill overlooking the town, and wandered +through the deserted barracks of historic fort Charlotte, where his +great-great-grandfather, the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, +hoisted the British flag in 1797, after the capture of the island by +forces under Sir Charles Grey and Sir John Jervis. Here, standing amidst +luxuriant tropical vegetation, he looked northward to the rocky Vigie +promontory, on which he could descry lines occupied by Sir William +Medow's thirteen hundred British, who in 1778 hurled back invading +enemies twelve thousand strong. Westward he looked over the muddy +Cul-de-sac Bay, where Sir Samuel Barrington, in the same year, fought a +desperate engagement with the French fleet under Count Destaing. +Eastward also the scene was full of historic interest, for here, beyond +the red roofs of Castries city, was visible a distant palm-shaded beach, +where Moore and Abercromby effected their landing in 1796. + +Descending the steep grassy Morne, the Prince afterwards attended a +popular reception at Government House, and thence went back to the +_Renown_. + +The still hot dawn of the following day found the ship passing the green +hills of the island of Martinique, birthplace of the Empress Josephine, +also the bare sea-girt Diamond Rock off its coast, where, a hundred +years ago, for eighteen lurid months, gallant Lieutenant Maurice and a +hundred and twenty men with five guns from H.M.S. _Centaur_ beat off +attack and themselves threatened all approach to the important harbour +of the enemy in Fort-de-France. Here also, towering into the clouds, +were visible the dim slopes of Mount Pelee, the eruption of which, +eighteen years before, had brought death in a few hours to forty +thousand people. + +Thereafter, through summer seas, crossing the place of the decisive +battle of the Saints, the _Renown_ pushed on, anchoring before noon off +the pleasant town of Roseau, capital of Dominica Island, and +head-quarters of the lime-juice industry of the world. As she neared the +shore, the ship was met by the sound of cheerful bells, reflected out to +sea from church towers backing upon green hills that rose into peaks, +extending tier beyond tier in the interior, in such tumbled form that +Columbus, describing it to his Queen, compared the island to a fistful +of crumpled paper. Here the light cruisers _Calcutta_ and _Cambrian_ +joined the _Renown_, the three vessels making a fine show as they lay +together, decked with bunting, in the brilliant sunshine of the +roadstead. + +The Prince landed at a decorated pier jutting out into the harbour. He +was welcomed by Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, +Mr. Robert Walter, a descendant of the founder of "The Times," +Administrator of Dominica, Dr. Nichols, Senior Member of the Senate, and +other leading residents. A guard-of-honour of the local defence force +was in attendance, and a crowd of gaily-dressed West Indians. A little +group of yellow Malay-faced Caribs, representing the survivors of these +now nearly extinct aborigines, stood on one side. Their chief, an old +man in top-hat and black coat, was one of those with whom the Prince +shook hands. The scene as the Prince proceeded inland from the wharf, +with cheering West Indians racing alongside his car, was one of much +quaint excitement and enthusiasm. He was taken in procession through +decorated streets, masses of coloured Dominicans and their womenfolk +clapping, shouting and laughing as he passed. "Than' God I not die las' +week," was one pious cry, to the accompaniment of the widest grin. + +Some beautiful botanical gardens, containing big trees, all grown in the +space of twenty-seven years, were inspected, and a visit paid to +Government House, which stands in pleasant, shady grounds. The Prince +re-embarked in the _Renown_ at sunset. + +Unlike most of the other West Indian islands, which did well out of +sugar during the war, Dominica, when the Prince visited it, was +recovering only slowly from war depression which had hit its previously +flourishing lime industry hard. This very depression, however, had +increased the available openings for newcomers, good land offering at +very reasonable rates. As the result, we were told, increasing numbers +of returned men were settling there, with bright hopes of making good +amongst beautiful surroundings and in a climate which is one of +perpetual summer. + +At Monserrat, a small island with open, cultivated fields contrasting +with the dense tropical jungle of Dominica, the Prince was received by +Mr. Condell, the Commissioner, and other leading inhabitants of the +colony, which is prospering in the good prices at present offering for +its sea-island cotton. Boiling sulphur springs, in a vast rocky cauldron +of steam, upon a mountain-side covered with aromatic cinnamon gardens +and flourishing fields of sea-cotton and potatoes, were things to see if +not to smell. The Prince was cheered by crowds of coloured folk, who, in +their broken English, still retain distinct traces of a brogue inherited +from one side of an ancestry which dates back to 1664, when Irish +immigrants were taken to the island by Sir Thomas Warner. It was a +quaint mixture. + +The _Renown_ put out to sea in still murky weather, with a yellow ring +round the moon, signs significant to all sailor eyes, and not rendered +more cheerful by the knowledge that a wireless message had reached the +ship, reporting one hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico and another off the +coast of Texas. + +The _Renown_ slipped through a smooth sea, however, to Antigua, +completely escaping bad weather. Antigua proved to be another open +island, not unlike Monserrat. The ship anchored five miles at sea off +St. John's, a small sheltered harbour in which, three centuries ago, +Prince Rupert successfully attacked two of Cromwell's ships. Here a +number of wooden fishing boats, of half a dozen different nationalities, +formed a lane of many-coloured bunting through which the Prince's +picket-boat was conducted to a decorated wharf. + +Sir Edward Merewether, Governor of the Leeward Islands, who had come on +in the _Renown_, Mr. Johnston, Colonial Secretary, Mr. Griffith, +Colonial Treasurer, Very Rev. Shepherd, Dean of Antigua, and members of +the local Executive and Legislative Councils welcomed the Prince at the +landing-stage. Thereafter, through decorated streets of dazzling white +wooden houses, reflecting back the tropical sun, and alive with cheering +coloured folk, the Prince went in procession to the old colonial +Court-House. Here, in the presence of an assemblage of the leading +citizens and their families, an address of welcome was read by Mr. +Griffin, Chief Justice of Antigua. + +The Prince replying, referred to Nelson's having refitted his ships in +this island before the Trafalgar campaign. He once again testified that +his own travels had been a wonderful experience and that he hoped to +have many opportunities of repeating and extending them in the future. + +A pretty function followed on the breezy cricket ground, where a +surprisingly large gathering of white school-children, besides masses of +coloured mites, cheered the Prince enthusiastically. A state luncheon +was afterwards given by the Governor, followed by a popular reception in +Government House Grounds. The _Renown_ then sailed for the Bermudas, and +the Royal visit to the West Indies, during which the Prince's cheery +presence had produced the happiest impression, was over. The pleasure of +the Europeans at seeing him in their isolated corner of the globe was +almost pathetic. For those of West Indian blood the occasion was also a +memorable one. It certainly revived feelings of solidarity with Great +Britain which have sometimes been strained by that preaching of +race-prejudice from which no people situated as these are can ever be +completely exempt, be the white administration never so tactful. + +Never, perhaps, has there been greater occasion for tact, as well as +strength and sympathy, in the political guidance of the Islands than +exists to-day. At the moment the West Indians are exceedingly prosperous +on the whole, owing to the phenomenal war-prices their sugar, cotton and +other produce have been fetching in the markets of the world. But the +quarter of century or so of lean years that preceded the last half-dozen +fat ones, have limited their outlook and retarded their development in +all directions. They have become isolated. They lie between two worlds, +with a tendency to take their ideas from their neighbour the United +States rather than from the distant Mother Country or from Canada. + +The only public information of any interest reaching them by cable of +happenings throughout the world is supplied through New York. American +capital is displacing British for the development of their mineral and +other resources. Their agricultural produce tends more and more to find +its way to the United States. Their visitors from Great Britain and the +Dominions are few compared with those arriving from America; yet that +this state of things can be changed is proved by the partial revival in +relations with the British Empire that has followed the conclusion of +the recent admirable West-Indian-Canadian Agreement. + +This agreement, however, is only one step in the right direction, and +requires to be followed by many more. Direct steamers and direct cable +communication with Great Britain are specially needed. The growing +demand of the West Indian population for progress towards +self-government, within the Empire, is also a matter of which the +importance cannot be too strongly emphasized, though self-government +cannot be realized without local readiness to face additional taxation +and expenditure. + +The splendid colonial Civil Service, sent out from London, has governed +the British West Indies faithfully and well for many years, despite +inadequate remuneration, and often discouraging deficiency in +recognition from public opinion at home; but the day when rectitude in +administration and efficiency in maintaining security and justice were +sufficient by themselves to satisfy the imagination of a coloured people +is passing away. The time is coming for new developments, in the +interests alike of the West Indies and of the Empire as a whole. + +The direction these developments must take is indicated by the nature of +the situation that stands so plainly in view. Its evolution upon +practical lines, in relation to the all-important question of the +raising of funds necessary to pay for direct steamers and cable services +and the attraction of settlers and capital from the British Empire, is a +matter that, though difficult, is no longer impossible as in the past, +for the reason that the recent growth in material prosperity in the +islands has removed the bar hitherto existing to proposals for new +taxation. In all consideration of the matter, of course, the fact has to +be envisaged that the post-war conditions, which are affecting the +world as a whole, are potent also in the British West Indies, and that +no policy which does not take them into account can remain at all +permanently in force in these important islands. + +The position of the negro population in the United States necessarily +reacts upon that of the corresponding people under British rule. +Propaganda is undoubtedly passing from negro organs in the Republic to +all the British islands. This propaganda takes into consideration the +political conditions in Cuba and Puertorico, which differ +constitutionally from those obtaining in the British West Indian +colonies. It has also to be remembered that the constitutions of the +various individual British islands differ amongst themselves, and that +the formulation of a uniform policy for their development may reasonably +be looked for in the near future. Such a policy must recognize the +interests of the labouring classes as well as of the old planter +families. It would seem, at present, that the Governments have some +difficulty in reconciling these two points of view, towards which they +have equal responsibilities. + + + + +XXV + +THE BERMUDAS + + +The picturesque islands of Bermuda, in the North Atlantic, the last +halting-place upon the Prince's tour, put up a brave show in honour of +the Royal visitor. The _Renown_ anchored at daylight on 1st October in +the open sea off what is known as "Five Fathom Hole," where the cobalt +of the deeper sea shaded into greenish patches above treacherous coral +reefs. Through tortuous channels the _Calcutta_, to which the Prince had +transhipped, felt her way, skirting on her left a prominent rock +celebrated as the "Ducking Stool," testing-spot of seventeenth-century +witches and place of punishment of scolds, where a battery of artillery +fired a salute. A little inland of the Ducking Stool a green hummock +rose, topped by Government House. Admiralty House also stood out +pre-eminent amongst smaller villas. On the right, as the _Calcutta_ +passed on, curved a long sickle-shaped arm of rock forming the other +side of the harbour, and terminating in the white sheds and +fortifications of the naval dockyard. In the middle were tiny rocky +islets between which the _Calcutta_ steered with margin only of a few +feet on either side. Upon the way the U.S.A. battleship _Kansas_, under +Rear-Admiral Hughes, a vessel sent to Bermuda by the United States +Government in honour of the Prince's visit, fired a welcoming salute. + +Coral-rock houses are a characteristic feature of Bermuda. They are +built of squared blocks sawn out of the hillside, and have sloping roofs +of similar stone rendered watertight with cement. One finds them +everywhere. In the country their grey walls and roofs are surrounded by +wildernesses of brilliant flowers, including purple bougainvilleas, the +aptly named "flamboyants," and pink oleanders, with smooth lawns, +terraced vineyards, and overgrown vegetable gardens sheltered by sombre +conifers. In the city one finds sky-scraper hotels and substantial +offices, workshops of Bermuda's principal industry, which is that of +catering for the American tourist, who flies to this sunny spot to +escape the New York winter, and dine where he may still drink. + +The Prince's visit took place in the off-season of hot weather when the +principal hotels are closed. The entire city had nevertheless been +decorated, and a large proportion of the twenty thousand inhabitants the +islands boast, assembled along the Club Wharf in Hamilton City, where +the landing took place. They consisted, for the most part, of cheerful +negroes and coloured folk, with a considerable proportion of +well-dressed whites, including many Americans. A guard-of-honour of the +Royal Sussex Regiment, in familiar khaki, stood to attention on the +landing-stage, rifle-barrels gleaming in the fierce sun. Here also +waited Sir James Willcocks in white uniform ablaze with war medals, also +Admirals Hughes and Everett and their staffs, and the principal civilian +officials in the perspiring black morning dress of more temperate zones. + +The Prince and his staff landed unostentatiously in white naval kit +from a brass-funnelled steam picket-boat. The usual procession of +carriages was formed, after the reception formalities, each drawn by a +fine pair of horses, and the Prince was taken through decorated streets +to the House of Assembly, where he inspected a guard-of-honour composed +of seamen from H.M.S. _Calcutta_. Within were assembled members of the +Executive and Legislative Councils and other leading residents and their +families, in the garb with which civilized ceremony defies temperatures +the world over. + +The Governor read an address of welcome, in the course of which he +reminded the Prince of their having met in France, where he, Sir James, +was in command of the Indian Army Corps. The Prince, in the course of +his reply, referred to the celebration of the tercentenary of the +establishment of representative institutions in Bermuda, then taking +place in the island, having been postponed for a month to coincide with +his own visit. He also acknowledged the courtesy of the United States +Government in sending the U.S.S. _Kansas_ to meet him. In conclusion he +touched upon the impressions left upon himself by his tour and its +lesson of the unity, strength and devotion which bind all parts of His +Majesty's dominions to British ideals. + +Later on in the garden of the public buildings the Prince laid the +foundation-stone of a war-memorial, the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps +and Militia artillery furnishing guards-of-honour, and relatives of +fallen men being presented. + +On the following day the Prince inspected the Royal Navy dockyard, and +placed a wreath upon the grave of the late Admiral Napier, until +recently in command of the Royal West Indian squadron, who was one of +the victims of an outbreak of typhoid in these islands. He also paid a +farewell visit to H.M.S. _Calcutta_, Flagship of the Royal West Indian +Squadron, which had been his escort throughout the tour in these waters, +and said good-bye to its officers and men, at the same time conferring +the Knight Commandership of the Victorian Order upon Admiral Everett, +and the Companionship on Captain Noble, R.N. + +The final day of the Prince's visit to Bermuda found him at St. George, +the quaint coral-built old capital, to which he drove himself from +Government House, Hamilton, in a high-seated mail phaeton, with two +horses, Sir James Willcocks beside him. The drive was twelve miles along +the coast, through most beautiful country, a fresh sea-breeze mitigating +the heat, which had previously been trying. Much of the way the road was +shaded by feathery Lignum-vitae trees, here known as cedars, which have +deliciously scented wood and were once a rich asset for shipbuilding. +Flowering groves of pink oleander, dense thickets of scarlet, pink and +yellow hibiscus, purple masses of bougainvilleas bordered the way, which +was past garden after garden of the wonderful rich red loam which has +won for Bermuda potatoes, Bermuda onions and Bermuda bananas a +reputation almost world-wide. + +_En route_ the Prince alighted to look into the shadowy depths of the +Devil's Grotto, a deep rock-bound pool of clearest water connected with +the sea, in which big fish of brilliant colours swim lazily. He also +wandered hundreds of yards underground, through an extraordinary rift in +the coral formation known as the Crystal cave, from hundreds of +thousands of semi-transparent stalactites, many of them reaching from +floor to ceiling, in some cases overhanging still pools of clear salt +water, or forming grotesque figures, with which the electric lamps, that +light the place, played the most fantastic tricks. The cave is one of a +number in different parts of the islands, and claims to be of +extraordinary antiquity, the stalactites growing at so slow a rate that +a hundred thousand years are believed to be represented by a mere +fraction of their length. + +The entire route from Hamilton to St. George had been decorated, the +arches representing an immense amount of willing labour. One of them had +been solidly constructed of square blocks of sawn coral rock by coloured +volunteers, who had built it at night after their ordinary working hours +were over. Another, which had been put up by members of the garrison, +was a wonderfully worked-out reproduction of the sailing ship _Patience_ +built near by, over three hundred years ago, by which the shipwrecked +crew of Sir George Somer's ship _Sea Venture_ made their way to +Virginia. This arch was entirely constructed of the local cedar, which +was the wood used in building the _Patience_. + +At St. George the Prince was entertained by Mayor Boyle and members of +the local town council, the Mayor's tiny but very self-possessed +grand-daughter presenting a bouquet, the last local attention of the +tour. He was given a great send-off when he finally embarked by launch +to rejoin the _Renown_ waiting for him beyond the reefs with the end of +her mission in sight and her blunt grey nose pointing toward home. + +Eight days later, on the 11th October, early in the morning, the heart +of England turned for a moment to her old harbour of Portsmouth, where, +through one of her own October fogs, her great battle-cruiser was +drawing majestically into port, bringing home from his second journey to +kinsfolk the eldest son of her Royal House. Perhaps the heart of England +felt a certain pride.... + + + + +XXVI + +THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE TOUR + + This Chapter is, by kind permission, largely reproduced from an + article by the writer published in the "Nineteenth Century" of + December, 1920. + + +"The tumult and the shouting dies," and what, now that it is over, +remains to Britain of the enterprise? What treasure came back in the +_Renown_ to make this Royal adventure worth while? + +The word may be disputed. The nation's heir, it may be said, does not +adventure in travelling to the hearths of kinsfolk. There is no +adventure in a voyage surrounded by every means of safety and comfort +that modern science can devise, a voyage backed by the blessing and sped +by the hope and pride of this sound old Mother Country. Yet in the fluid +state of social and political emotion to-day it was an adventure, a +challenge in the very teeth of those unbridled forces that are so +blatant and busy in the disservice of the British Empire, and a +challenge before which not one of them raised its head. + +The constantly recurring scene of the Prince making acquaintance with +overseas audiences is long since familiar. It has been depicted in the +columns of hundreds of newspapers and actually thrown before the eyes +of thousands in cinemas. It is far more than a twice-told tale that His +Royal Highness was everywhere received with enthusiasm which was +altogether phenomenal, that he was everywhere able to draw the whole of +the inhabitants of the places he visited away from their business, their +occupation or their pleasure, to concentrate during the time he was +amongst them, the whole of their attention and interest upon himself, +and the idea of race, Empire and loyalty for which he stands. In so far +as the hackneyed words of newspaper reports can produce that effect, +their reiteration must by now have turned the remarkable scenes of his +progress into a kind of Royal commonplace, and retired them into the +back of the popular imagination as matters to be taken for granted. It +is difficult to put into terms of flags and decorations, patriotic songs +and calculated multitudes, however gay and hoarse and unexampled, +anything of the fine essence discharged from men's hearts and minds that +made the soul of these occasions. Only perhaps to those who actually saw +them will they survive conventional description, as experiences of the +rare sort that baffle it. It did not seem to matter who his audiences +were. Keen, sharp American business men with square jaws and shrewd +eyes, to whom a Prince would necessarily hover somewhere between a +figure of mediaeval romance and a comic anachronism, proved no less +susceptible to the something he has to offer than the crowds of our own +family in New Zealand, Tasmania or New South Wales. Queensland, with its +advanced Labour Government, its public ownership of utilities and +enterprises, its schedules of progress in which at least no conspicuous +place is allotted to Royal personages, proved just as enthusiastic as +did conservative New Zealand. Centres of culture, learning and wealth +like Sydney and Melbourne, showed exactly the same spirit as did rough +mining and logging camps, and lonely sheep stations in the far interior. +Cornish gold diggers of Bendigo and Ballarat rivalled the cordial +welcome of the Welsh coal-miners of Westport and Greymouth. Catholic +Irishmen newly arrived in cattle stations in Northern and Western +Australia mustered as keenly in honour of the Prince as Presbyterian +farmers in settled Tasmania. Fuzzy-headed Fijians, dignified Samoans, +Polynesians of Honolulu, negroes of Demerara and Trinidad seethed and +bubbled with like enthusiasm. + +There was more than the personal factor in an appeal so widely honoured, +more than the touch of romance upon imaginations untravelled along Royal +roads, yet recollection harks back irresistibly to the spectacle of the +human equation as between the Prince and his audiences. There is no +other way of explaining their quick pleasure at the sight of him and +their instant and unerring formulas for his relation to themselves and +to the world. Anything mechanical, anything perfunctory, would have worn +out with the first gratification of curiosity; but a point which struck +the onlooker was that enthusiasm grew instead of cooling off, as the +Prince's visit to each place continued and as acquaintance with him +ripened. "Yes, but only once," was a little Australian girl's wistful +answer when asked if she had seen the Prince. Nor were children of a +larger growth content with only once. Their eyes could not be too well +filled with this young symbol of their race and Empire, whose person +pleased them and whose negligence of the pomp and privileges their +minds had given him upset their preconceptions with a thrill of delight. +To be of the Imperial present, with its dignity and untarnished +splendour, to come of the Royal past with its long discipline of duty +and decoration of anointed names, and to let it all sink as the Prince +lets it sink into the simplest background of his personality, is an +achievement--or should it be called just a habit--which makes at once +the happiest appeal to human nature, the world over. He does not even +appear to be aware that these things should do anything for him. He is +as diffident as, say, the naval officer who blocked Zeebrugge harbour or +the flight-lieutenant who brought down the first Zeppelin over London. +The touch is British and of the essence. It is an odd inconsistency of +race consciousness which makes us recognize and take pride in it, but we +do. Another characteristic almost as immediately perceived by an +audience is the Prince's plain delight in giving pleasure, his obvious +satisfaction in doing the thing that he has to do and doing it well. +There are endless stories of his disregard of physical fatigue in the +desire to take out of himself every ounce that could be given to the +gratification of public gatherings. There is never a hint of boredom in +his face or bearing. Thus the bond of sympathy is complete. The people +are there and he is there for the same purpose, and nothing breaks the +circuit of goodwill. There was something naive and touching in the +constantly possessive note that hailed him "ours" from the wharfs of +Sydney to the string-bark avenues of Perth; and to this claim also +something in the Prince responds with an unselfishness that might be the +supreme lesson of kings. + +The Prince's personality is greatly deepened and broadened by his +speeches, which in their simplicity and directness are perfectly the +expression of himself. They never exaggerate, and they never fall short. +They are pervaded by a sincerity that is perhaps more than anything the +secret of their instant appeal. There is no forcing of the note, no +effort at elaboration, no sacrifice to rhetorical points. Withal he says +the things that people instinctively expect and want to hear, and he +says them with a happy grace and a plain belief in the message that +underlies them all, the assurance of the strength and solidarity of the +Empire for which he speaks. + +The whole projection of this Royal personality upon the world is +extraordinary. Look at the circumstances under which it is made. The +passionate under-trend of society towards the dogmas of democracy, the +tragic extinction, within the last five years, of more than one dynasty, +the perpetual tendency of privilege, royal as well as any other, to +liquesce into the common stream of human rights, are all against him. +One would have supposed that roses strewn in the path of a Prince, at +this point of the world's history, if strewn at all, would be none of +nature's growing. Yet this Prince seems to prove that the King and the +King's heir are far more a part of the people and bred from the nation, +than any president. The Prince stands for the people. His character has +been formed, his ideals fostered by healthy English training. It may +possibly not be far-fetched to say that he is the product of intensive +cultivation along national lines. Thus he appeals to the nation's pride +of possession, and his place in their hearts is ready before he occupies +it. + +It is no depreciation of the personal magnetism of the Heir to the +Throne to say that he brought to light and stimulated Imperial +enthusiasm already existing below the surface, and waiting only to be +evoked, rather than that he created anything not already in being. +Nevertheless, it must be remembered that the idea of the Empire as a +union of sister nations co-operating and sharing ideals and hopes in a +future they are bound together to bring about, is a young idea, as young +as the Prince. It is not long since the Dominions and India had little +beyond domestic affairs to exercise their powers of administration upon; +their share in the Imperial idea was largely commercial, and chiefly +concerned with the attraction of capital for the development of their +natural resources. They had no voice in the world policy of the +Anglo-Saxon race, and no apparent prospect of getting it. The Prince and +his youth happily blend in the new partnership and the new prospect, +making for all of us a very potential figure. Beside the charm, the +buoyancy of youth, he has the romance of an epoch of world history full +of possibilities for the peoples who live under the British flag. To +this romance he contributes all that he is, and he contributes it in the +most whole-hearted manner. + +The Prince was never tired of referring in his speeches to the bond +created by common service in the great war. Wherever he went it was the +returned soldier that he must see and greet, wounded or whole--how often +has this chronicle had to dwell upon the long lines of them. "Returned +sailors and soldiers, relations of the fallen, nurses and war-workers," +backed by the shouting school-children--they have risen perhaps with +some iteration before the eye of those who have followed the tale. But, +looking back, the splendour fades out of the tropic sky and the opulence +out of the great city, the whole panorama of sheep-run and factory, +orchard and mine rolls up into a decoration; and the meaning of all we +saw abides in those men and women and children working out their lot and +their lives far from the home of the race, but standing, and ready to +stand again, for its flag and its ideals. + +"One heritage we share though seas divide," declared the citizens of +Sydney with the emphasis of a triumphal arch. The claim rang true. +Distance cannot weaken this tie, nor oceans wash it out. No one +undervalues the picturesqueness of the emotion the Prince has evoked +amongst members of other races living under Anglo-Saxon tutelage and +protection, but the real significance is in what it has drawn from +peoples of our own stock. Supreme among the values that come out of it +is the enduring quality of the British portion in the things of the mind +and of character, in ideals, and standards. It is no vague sentiment +that binds together the various branches of our people, but a unity that +lives. The part of the Prince of Wales has been to waken a new +consciousness throughout the Anglo-Saxon world. He stands for all that +joins us and for all that we can do when we are together. + + + + +INDEX + + + Acapulco, 216 + + Adams (Sir Hamilton G.), 178 + + Addison (Organizer, Tasmania), 209 + + Adelaide, 164 + + Albany, 140 + + Allan (Pte. Duncan), 193 + + Allardice (Sir Wm.), 170 + + Allen (Captain M. C.), 129 + + American Kindness, 26, 215 + + American-West-Indian Relations, 233 + + Amiens, 179 + + Anglo-American Co-operation, 226 + + Ansley (Bishop, Trinidad), 222 + + Antigua, 231 + + _Anzac_ (H.M.A.S.), 101 + + Arthur's Pass, 81 + + Ashburton, 94 + + Atkinson (Mr. Robert), 31 + + Auckland, 47 + + _Australia_ (H.M.A.S.), 46, 176 + + Australian Bight, 140 + + Avaro Obregon, 217 + + + Baker (Broken Hill Co.), 138 + + Balboa, 19, 23 + + Balclutha, 97 + + Ballarat, 109 + + Barbados, 9 + + Barton (Sir Edmund), 125 + + Barwell (Premier, S. Australia), 163, 164, 165 + + Bass Strait, 176 + + Bathurst, 193 + + Beerburrum, 189 + + Bell (Mr. Norris), 158 + + Bell (Mr. A. G.), 221 + + Bellringer (Mr. F.), 63 + + Bendigo, 110 + + Bennett (Brig.-General), 130 + + Bennett (Mr. Percy), 15 + + Bermuda, 236 + + Berry (Sir Graham), 105 + + Best (Mr. de B.), 221 + + Bethell (Major-General), 15 + + Black (Mr. Stuart), 108 + + Blake (Captain, R.N.), 15 + + Blayney, 206 + + Blenheim, 74 + + Blinman (Organizer, S. Australia), 209 + + Blue Mountains, 192 + + Board (Director Education, N.S.W.), 127 + + Boonah, 188 + + Boyle (Mayor, St. George), 240 + + Bridges (General), 132 + + Bridgetown, 10, 152 + + Brighton, 174 + + Brisbane, 182 + + Brisbane River, 183, 185 + + Broken Hills Proprietary Co., 137 + + Brown (Mayor, Napier), 67 + + Brown (Member, Court of Policy), 224 + + Brunner Valley, 80 + + Bulla Bulling, 155 + + Buller River, 76, 80 + + Butler (Architect), 108 + + + _Calcutta_ (H.M.S.), 10, 223 + + _Calliope_ (H.M.S.), 80, 226 + + _Cambrian_ (H.M.S.), 230 + + Camperdown, 107 + + Canadian-West-Indian Agreement, 233 + + Canberra, 119, 132 + + Canobolas Mountains, 207 + + Canoubar, 194 + + Canterbury Plain, 94 + + Carroll (Sir James), 57 + + Carruthers (General), 24 + + Carter (Lady), 11 + + Casino, 187 + + Castlemaine, 110 + + Castries, 228 + + Cattaneo (Monsignor), 185, 187 + + Chancellor (Sir John), 221 + + Charlotte Sound, 73 + + Charlotte Bay, 95 + + Chaytor (General Sir E.), 61, 98 + + Christchurch, 81, 83 + + Christian (Brig.-General), 130 + + Claremount, 146 + + Clifford (Capt. Hon. B.), 209 + + Colac, 106 + + Collier (Mr. P.), 141 + + Colon, 220 + + Condell (Commissioner, Monserrat), 231 + + Cook (Sir Joseph), 112, 118 + + Coolgardie, 155 + + Coonamble, 193 + + Cooroy, 189 + + Coronado Beach, 25 + + Cottisloe, 146 + + Culebra Cut, 18 + + Cullen (Sir William), 128 + + Cutler (N.S.W., Shipbuilding), 136 + + + Dalrymple (Colonel S.), 66 + + Dannevirke, 68 + + Davidson-Houston (Colonel), 228 + + Deane (Judge, Trinidad), 222 + + de Caignai (Father), 222 + + de Freitas (Mr. Anthony), 228 + + Delprat (Broken Hills Co.), 137 + + Demerara, 223 + + Dodds (Brig.-General), 112, 209 + + Dominica, 229 + + Dragon's Mouth, 226 + + Dubbo, 206 + + Dowling (Archbishop, Trinidad), 222 + + Duhig (Archbishop, Queensland), 187 + + Dumaresq (Commodore), 121, 209 + + Duncan-Hughes (Capt. J. G.), 209 + + Dunedin, 95 + + Duntroon, 131 + + + Eden, 176 + + Elphinstone (Solicitor-General, Trinidad), 221 + + Estell (Minister of Works, Commonwealth), 136 + + Everett (Admiral), 237, 239 + + + Farm Park, 184 + + Farm Cove, 121 + + Fassifern, 135 + + Father of the Ship, 36 + + Featherston, 69 + + Fechan (Australian New Zealand Co.), 194 + + Feilding, 66 + + Fergusson (Mr. Herbert), 227 + + Fihelly (Acting Premier, Queensland), 178, 185, 190, 208. + + Fiji, 41, 211 + + Frankton, 62 + + Fraser (Sir William), 61, 98 + + Fremantle, 145 + + + Galbraith (Mayor, Ashburton), 94 + + Gatun Locks, 15 + + Gawler, 163 + + Geelong, 105 + + Georgetown, 223 + + Gibson (Mayor, Newcastle), 139 + + Gisborne, 100 + + Gore, 97 + + Gosford, 139 + + Grand Etang, 227 + + Grant (Rear-Admiral), 112, 118, 209 + + Great Dividing Range, 110 + + Great North West, 146 + + Grenada, 226 + + Greymouth, 79, 80 + + Griffin (Ch. Justice, Leeward Is.), 232 + + Griffith (Colonial Treasurer, Antigua), 232 + + Grigg (Lt.-Colonel Sir E.), 37 + + Groom (Minister Works, Commonwealth), 133 + + Gunn (S. Australian Labour Party), 165 + + Gympie, 189 + + + Haddon-Smith (Sir George), 226, 228 + + Hagley Park, 82 + + Halsey (Admiral Sir Lionel), 36, 150 + + Hamilton, 53, 240 + + Hamilton (Mr. Gavin), 98 + + Hamilton (Lord Claud), 37 + + Hankins (Mrs. J. H.), 66 + + Hapa Tenure, 54 + + Harding (Engineer-Colonel, Panama Canal), 16 + + Harrisville, 188 + + Hastings, 68 + + Hawaii, 30 + + Hawera, 64 + + Hawkes Bay, 67 + + Hawkesbury River, 135 + + Hay (Mr. Clifford), 209 + + Haycroft (Sir Thomas), 227 + + Heritage (Colonel F. B.), 209 + + High Street, 177 + + Hinemoa (Princess), 55 + + Hislop (Mr. James), 61, 98 + + Hobart, 170 + + Hobbs (General Sir Talbot), 142 + + Hobson (Captain, R.N.), 48 + + Hodgson (N.S.W. Railways), 178 + + Hokitika, 79 + + Holmes (Otira Tunnel), 81 + + Holloway (Mr. E. J.), 113 + + Honolulu, 27, 215 + + Huntley, 54 + + Hughes (Rt. Hon. William), 103, 112 + + Hughes (Rear-Admiral), 236 + + Humphries (W. Australian Saw Mills), 148 + + Hutt Valley, 69 + + _Hygeia_ (S.S.), 102 + + + Inangahua, 78, 79 + + Invercargill, 97 + + Ipswich, 188 + + + Jackaroo (The), 195 + + James (Capt. R.), 209 + + Jellibrand (Major-Gen. Sir J.), 170 + + Jervis Bay, 118 + + Jobson (Brig.-Gen.), 130 + + Johnston (Admiral), 16 + + Johnston (Colonial Secretary, Leeward Is.), 232 + + + Kaahumanu (Queen), 34 + + Kaitangata, 97 + + Kalgoorlie, 156 + + Kamshamcha (King), 34 + + _Kansas_ (U.S.S.), 236 + + Kawananakoa (Princess), 32 + + Kelso, 193 + + Kennedy (Colonel), 16 + + Kidnappers' Island, 67 + + King's Kava, 44, 214 + + Kyneton, 110 + + + Laborde (Mr. E.), 227 + + Landsborough, 189 + + Lascelles (Messrs. & Co. etc.), 106 + + Lathlain (Mayor, Perth), 141, 142, 143 + + Launceston, 173 + + Lawson, 193 + + Lee (Sir Walter), 170 + + Lefevre (Senor), 15 + + Legge (General), 131 + + Leigh (Capt. Hon. Piers), 37 + + Lennon (Hon. Mr.), 178 + + Liliuokalani (Queen), 28 + + Liverpool (Earl of), 98 + + Liverpool Hills, 182 + + Lloyd (Brig.-General H. W.), 112, 209 + + Lockyer Plain, 182 + + Loma Point, 23 + + Lucas (Messrs. & Co.), 108 + + Luke (Mayor, Wellington), 69 + + Lyttleton, 83 + + + McDougall (Sergeant, V.C.), 170 + + MacDougall (Wire factory), 138 + + McEwan (Australian and N.Z. Land Co.), 193 + + McCarthy (Governor, Hawaii), 30, 215, 216 + + MacDonald (Opposition, N.Z. Govt.), 98 + + McGeachie (Mr. Duncan), 136 + + McLeod (Canoubar Run), 194 + + MacMillan (Justice), 141 + + MacNamara, (Mr. D. L.), 113 + + Macquarie Lake, 136 + + McVilly (N.Z. Railways), 62, 98 + + Malietoa Laupepa, 213 + + Malietoa Tanumafili, 213 + + Manawatu River, 66 + + Markham (Panama Canal Officer), 220 + + Martin (Brig.-General), 130 + + Martinique, 229 + + Marton, 65 + + Maryborough, 189 + + Massey (Rt. Hon. William), 50, 59 + + Mataura, 97 + + Maungatapu, 75 + + Maxwell (Mayor, Brisbane), 183 + + Melbourne, 101 + + Mereweather (Sir Edward), 230, 232 + + Miller (Sir Dennison), 125 + + Milner (Dr. F.), 95 + + Miraflores, 19 + + Mitchell (Premier, W. Australia), 141, 144, 149 + + Moana Hotel, 215 + + Mokoia, 55 + + Monserrat, 231 + + Moonee Valley, 117 + + Morgan (Mr. F. H.), 62 + + Mosgiel, 97 + + Moulder (Mayor, Adelaide), 164, 169 + + Mountbatten (Lord Louis), 39 + + Mount Egmont, 63 + + Mount Wallace, 97 + + Mui (Colonel), 222 + + Mundaring Weir, 154 + + Murchison, 78 + + Murray River, 110 + + Mutch (Education Minister, N.S.W.), 127 + + Myowera, 194 + + + Napier, 67 + + Napier (Admiral), 238 + + Nelson Park, 67 + + Nelson, 74, 75 + + Neptune on the _Renown_, 35 + + Newcastle, 135, 136 + + Newdegate (Sir Francis), 141 + + _New Mexico_ (U.S.S.), 23 + + New Plymouth, 63 + + Newport (Surgeon, Commander), 151 + + New South Wales, 116 + + New York Hospitality, 26 + + Ngata (Hon. Mr. A. T.), 57 + + Ngaruawahia, 53 + + Ngauruhoe, 63 + + Niall (Canoubar Estate), 194 + + Nichols (Senator, Dominica), 230 + + Noble (Captain, R.N.), 239 + + North (Captain, R.N.), 36 + + North Island, 59 + + Nullarbor Plain, 158 + + Nyngan, 195 + + + Oamaru, 95 + + O'Brien (Sir Charles), 10 + + O'Donovan (N.Z. Police), 98 + + Ogden (Tasmanian Govt., Opposition), 171 + + Oliver (Shire President, Coonamble), 193 + + Otira, 81 + + Otway Forest, 107 + + + Pahiatua, 68 + + Palmerston-North, 66 + + Panama, 15, 219 + + Parallah, 174 + + Parramatta, 135 + + Parkerville, 141 + + Parry (Archbishop, Demerara), 224 + + Patea, 64 + + Patrick (Lt.-Commander, R.N.), 130 + + Port Adelaide, 168 + + Port Augusta, 163 + + Port Chalmers, 96, 97 + + Port Melbourne, 118 + + Port of Spain, 221 + + Port Phillip, 100 + + Portsmouth, 1, 241 + + President of Panama, 20 + + Pukikura Park, 63 + + + Queanbeyan, 131 + + Queensland, 176 + + Quorn, 163 + + + Rai Hills, 75 + + Railways (N.Z.), 88 + + Rangitoto, 48 + + Red-legs, 13 + + _Renown_ (H.M.S.), 3 + + Reefton, 79 + + Rhodes (Mr. Tahu), 98 + + Rice (General), 224 + + Riley (Archbishop, Perth), 144 + + Rimutaka, 69 + + Roberts (Mrs.), 170 + + Robinson (Lt.-Colonel), 209 + + Rodondo Island, 100 + + Rodwell (Sir Cecil), 42 + + Rosenthal (Major-General Sir C.), 130 + + Rotorua, 57 + + Ruahine, 65 + + Russell (Judge, Trinidad), 222 + + Rust (Mayor, Port of Spain), 222 + + Ryrie (Major-General), 130 + + + St. George's, 226 + + St. Joseph, 222 + + St. Hilda, 102 + + St. Lucia, 228 + + Sale of West Indies, 14 + + Saluting the Quarterdeck, 16 + + Samoa, 212 + + San Diego, 22 + + Scholefield (Professor Guy), 62 + + Scott (Mayor, Suva), 42 + + Scott (Sir Bickham), 46 + + Seddon (late Prime Minister, N.Z.), 79 + + Seddon (Mr. Thomas), 79 + + Shapcott (Organizer, W. Australia), 209 + + Simonin (Monsignor), 16 + + Sleeman (Lt.-Colonel), 61, 98 + + Smith (Sir Alfred), 222 + + South Australia, 163 + + Southern California, 22 + + South Island, 73 + + Spencer Gulf, 163 + + Stephens (Governor, California), 23 + + Storey (Premier, N.S.W.), 123, 124, 125 + + Stratford, 64 + + Steer (Organizer, Queensland), 209 + + Strong (Colonel), 127 + + Subiaco, 146 + + Suva, 211 + + Swan River, 141, 145 + + Sydney, 119, 176 + + _Sydney_ (H.M.A.S.), 142 + + + Tahua Ceremony, 43 + + Taranaki, 63 + + Tarawera, 55 + + Tate (Colonel R. W.), 212 + + Taylor (Captain, R.N.), 38 + + Tekuiti, 63 + + Temuka, 95 + + Terowie, 163 + + Thacker (Mayor, Christchurch), 81 + + Thakombau (King), 42 + + Theodore (Premier, Queensland), 178 + + Thomas (Sir Godfrey), 37 + + Thomas (Mr. Joyce), 227 + + Tiaro, 189 + + Timaru, 95 + + Toowoomba, 191 + + Toronto, 136 + + Trinidad, 221 + + Tuamarina, 73 + + Tuimale Fana, 213 + + Tudor (Leader Opposition, Victoria), 104, 113 + + Tunbridge, 174 + + Turakina River, 65 + + + Victoria, 100 + + Visiting the Ship, 16 + + Vowles (Leader Opposition, Queensland), 185 + + + Waikiki Beach, 30, 215 + + Waimarino Forest, 63 + + Waipukurau, 68 + + Wairarapa, 69 + + Waitaki River, 95 + + Walcott (Mr. H. B.), 221 + + Wallangarra, 178, 192 + + Walsh Island, 136 + + Walter (Mr. Robert), 230 + + Walters (Captain, R.N.), 118 + + Wangamoa, 75 + + Wanganui, 64 + + Ward (Sir Joseph), 87 + + Ward-room Mess, 6 + + Warwick, 181 + + Watt (Mayor, Hamilton), 53 + + Weigall (Sir Archibald), 163, 164 + + Wellington, 69, 206 + + Werribee Plain, 105 + + Western Australia, 140 + + West Maitland, 177 + + Westport, 79 + + Wheatley (Dr.), 118 + + White (Major-Gen. Sir Brudenell), 112, 209 + + Whitehead (Organizer, Victoria), 209 + + + Yearwood (Mr. Graham), 11 + + + + +_Printed in Great Britain by_ Butler & Tanner, _Frome and London_ + +A SELECTION FROM + +MESSRS. METHUEN'S + +PUBLICATIONS + + +This Catalogue contains only a selection of the more important books +published by Messrs. Methuen. A complete catalogue of their publications +may be obtained on application. + + =Bain (F. W.)=-- + + A DIGIT OF THE MOON: a Hindoo Love Story. THE DESCENT OF THE SUN: A + Cycle of Birth. A HEIFER OF THE DAWN. IN THE GREAT GOD'S HAIR. A + DRAUGHT OF THE BLUE. AN ESSENCE OF THE DUSK. AN INCARNATION OF THE + SNOW. A MINE OF FAULTS. THE ASHES OF A GOD. BUBBLES OF THE FOAM. A + SYRUP OF THE BEES. THE LIVERY OF EVE. THE SUBSTANCE OF A DREAM. + _All Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. AN ECHO OF THE SPHERES. _Wide Demy_. + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Balfour (Graham).= THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. _Fifteenth + Edition. In one Volume. Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Belloc (H.)=-- + + PARIS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HILLS AND THE SEA, 6_s_. _net_. ON + NOTHING AND KINDRED SUBJECTS, 6_s_. _net_. ON EVERYTHING, 6_s_. + _net_. ON SOMETHING, 6_s_. _net_. FIRST AND LAST, 6_s_. _net_. THIS + AND THAT AND THE OTHER, 6_s_. _net_. MARIE ANTOINETTE, 18_s_. + _net_. THE PYRENEES, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Bloemfontein (Bishop of).= ARA COELI: AN ESSAY IN MYSTICAL + THEOLOGY. _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + FAITH AND EXPERIENCE. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + THE CULT OF THE PASSING MOMENT. _Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + THE ENGLISH CHURCH AND REUNION. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + SCALA MUNDI. _Cr. 8vo_. 4_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Chesterton (G. K.)=-- + + THE BALLAD OF THE WHITE HORSE. ALL THINGS CONSIDERED. TREMENDOUS + TRIFLES. ALARMS AND DISCURSIONS. A MISCELLANY OF MEN. _All Fcap. + 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. WINE, WATER, AND SONG. _Fcap. 8vo_. 1_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. THE USES OF DIVERSITY. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Clutton-Brock (A.).= WHAT IS THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN? _Fourth + Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + ESSAYS ON ART. _Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + ESSAYS ON BOOKS. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + MORE ESSAYS ON BOOKS. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Cole (G. D. H.).= SOCIAL THEORY. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Conrad (Joseph).= THE MIRROR OF THE SEA: Memories and Impressions. + _Fourth Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Einstein (A.).= RELATIVITY: THE SPECIAL AND THE GENERAL THEORY. + Translated by ROBERT W. LAWSON. _Third Edition Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + =Eliot (T. S.).= THE SACRED WOOD: ESSAYS ON POETRY. _Fcap. 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net_. + + =Fyleman (Rose.).= FAIRIES AND CHIMNEYS. _Fcap. 8vo. Eighth + Edition_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE FAIRY GREEN. _Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Gibbins (H. de B.).= INDUSTRY IN ENGLAND: HISTORICAL OUTLINES. + With Maps and Plans. _Tenth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 5 Maps and a Plan. + _Twenty-seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + + =Gibbon (Edward).= THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE. + Edited, with Notes, Appendices, and Maps, by J. B. BURY. + Illustrated. _Seven Volumes_. _Demy 8vo_. Illustrated. _Each_ + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also in Seven Volumes. Cr. 8vo. Each_ 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Glover (T. R.).= THE CONFLICT OF RELIGIONS IN THE EARLY ROMAN + EMPIRE. _Ninth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + POETS AND PURITANS. _Second Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + FROM PERICLES TO PHILIP. _Third Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + VIRGIL. _Fourth Edition. Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE CHRISTIAN TRADITION AND ITS VERIFICATION. (The Angus Lecture + for 1912.) _Second Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Grahame (Kenneth).= THE WIND IN THE WILLOWS. _Eleventh Edition. + Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hall (H. R.).= THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE NEAR EAST FROM THE + EARLIEST TIMES TO THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS. Illustrated. _Fifth + Edition. Demy 8vo_. 21_s_. _net_. + + =Hawthorne (Nathaniel).= THE SCARLET LETTER. With 31 Illustrations + in Colour by HUGH THOMSON. WIDE ROYAL 8VO. 31_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Holdsworth (W. S.).= A HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW. _Vols. I., II., + III. Each Second Edition. Demy 8vo_. _Each_ 15_s_. _net_. + + =Inge (W. R.).= CHRISTIAN MYSTICISM. (The Bampton Lectures of + 1899.) _Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Jenks (E.).= AN OUTLINE OF ENGLISH LOCAL GOVERNMENT. _Fourth + Edition_. Revised by R. C. K. ENSOR. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + A SHORT HISTORY OF ENGLISH LAW: FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE END + OF THE YEAR 1911. _Second Edition, revised. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Julian (Lady) of Norwich.= REVELATIONS OF DIVINE LOVE. Edited by + GRACE WARRACK. _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Keats (John).= POEMS. Edited, with Introduction and Notes, by E. + DE SELINCOURT. With a Frontispiece in Photogravure. _Fourth + Edition. Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Kidd (Benjamin).= THE SCIENCE OF POWER. _Ninth Edition. Crown + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SOCIAL EVOLUTION. _Demy 8vo_. 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Kipling (Rudyard).= BARRACK-ROOM BALLADS. _208th Thousand. Cr. + 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. _Cloth_, 6_s_. + _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE SEVEN SEAS. _157th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE FIVE NATIONS. _126th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. _94th Thousand_. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. _Also Fcap. 8vo. Cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _leather_, 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + THE YEARS BETWEEN. _Cr. 8vo. Buckram_, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. _Also on + thin paper. Fcap. 8vo. Blue cloth_, 6_s_. _net_; _Limp lambskin_, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + Also a Service Edition. _Two Volumes_. _Square fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 3_s_. _net_. + + HYMN BEFORE ACTION. Illuminated. _Fcap. 4to_. 1_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + RECESSIONAL. Illuminated. _Fcap. 4to_. 1_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TWENTY POEMS FROM RUDYARD KIPLING. _360th Thousand. Fcap. 8vo_. + 1_s_. _net_. + + =Lamb (Charles and Mary).= THE COMPLETE WORKS. Edited by E. V. + LUCAS. _A New and Revised Edition in Six Volumes_. _With + Frontispieces. Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ 6_s_. _net_. + + The volumes are:-- + + I. MISCELLANEOUS PROSE. II. ELIA AND THE LAST ESSAY OF ELIA. III. + BOOKS FOR CHILDREN. IV. PLAYS AND POEMS V. and VI. LETTERS. + + THE ESSAYS OF ELIA. With an Introduction by E. V. LUCAS, and 28 + Illustrations by A. GARTH JONES. _Fcap. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Lankester (Sir Ray).= SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. + _Thirteenth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + DIVERSIONS OF A NATURALIST. Illustrated. _Third Edition. Cr. 8vo_. + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SECRETS OF EARTH AND SEA. _Cr. 8vo_. 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Lodge (Sir Oliver).= MAN AND THE UNIVERSE: A STUDY OF THE + INFLUENCE OF THE ADVANCE IN SCIENTIFIC KNOWLEDGE UPON OUR + UNDERSTANDING OF CHRISTIANITY. _Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo_. 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + THE SURVIVAL OF MAN: A STUDY IN UNRECOGNISED HUMAN FACULTY. + _Seventh Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MODERN PROBLEMS. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + RAYMOND; OR LIFE AND DEATH. Illustrated. _Twelfth Edition. Demy + 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Lucas (E. V.).=-- + + THE LIFE OF CHARLES LAMB, _2 vols_., 21_s_. _net_. A WANDERER IN + HOLLAND, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN LONDON, 10_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. LONDON REVISITED, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN PARIS, + 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_ and 6_s_. _net_. A WANDERER IN FLORENCE, 10_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. A WANDERER IN VENICE, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE OPEN + ROAD: A Little Book for Wayfarers, 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_ and 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE FRIENDLY TOWN: A Little Book for the Urbane, 6_s_. + _net_. FIRESIDE AND SUNSHINE, 6_s_. _net_. CHARACTER AND COMEDY, + 6_s_. _net_. THE GENTLEST ART: A Choice of Letters by Entertaining + Hands, 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE SECOND POST, 6_s_. _net_. HER + INFINITE VARIETY: A Feminine Portrait Gallery, 6_s_. _net_. GOOD + COMPANY: A Rally of Men, 6_s_. _net_. ONE DAY AND ANOTHER, 6_s_. + _net_. OLD LAMPS FOR NEW, 6_s_. _net_. LOITERER'S HARVEST, 6_s_. + _net_. CLOUD AND SILVER, 6_s_. _net_. A BOSWELL OF BAGHDAD, AND + OTHER ESSAYS, 6_s_. _net_. 'TWIXT EAGLE AND DOVE, 6_s_. _net_. THE + PHANTOM JOURNAL, AND OTHER ESSAYS AND DIVERSIONS, 6_s_. _net_. + SPECIALLY SELECTED: A Choice of Essays, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + BRITISH SCHOOL: An Anecdotal Guide to the British Painters and + Paintings in the National Gallery, 6_s_. _net_. TRAVEL NOTES. + + =McDougall (William).= AN INTRODUCTION TO SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGY. + _Sixteenth Edition. Cr. 8vo_. 8_s_. _net_. + + BODY AND MIND: A HISTORY AND A DEFENCE OF ANIMISM. _Fifth Edition_. + _Demy 8vo_. 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Maeterlinck (Maurice)=-- + + THE BLUE BIRD: A Fairy Play in Six Acts, 6_s_. _net_. MARY + MAGDALENE; A Play in Three Acts, 5_s_. _net_. DEATH, 3_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. OUR ETERNITY, 6_s_. _net_. THE UNKNOWN GUEST, 6_s_. _net_. + POEMS, 5_s_. _net_. THE WRACK OF THE STORM, 6_s_. _net_. THE + MIRACLE OF ST. ANTHONY: A Play in One Act, 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + BURGOMASTER OF STILEMONDE: A Play in Three Acts, 5_s_. _net_. THE + BETROTHAL; or, The Blue Bird Chooses, 6_s_. _net_. MOUNTAIN PATHS, + 6_s_. _net_. THE STORY OF TYLTYL, 21_s_. _net_. + + =Milne (A. A.).= THE DAY'S PLAY. THE HOLIDAY ROUND. ONCE A WEEK. + _All Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. _net_. NOT THAT IT MATTERS. _Fcap 8vo_. 6_s_. + _net_. IF I MAY. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + =Oxenham (John)=-- + + BEES IN AMBER; A Little Book of Thoughtful Verse. ALL'S WELL: A + Collection of War Poems. THE KING'S HIGH WAY. THE VISION SPLENDID. + THE FIERY CROSS. HIGH ALTARS: The Record of a Visit to the + Battlefields of France and Flanders. HEARTS COURAGEOUS. ALL CLEAR! + WINDS OF THE DAWN. _All Small Pott 8vo_. _Paper_, 1_s_. 3_d_. + _net_; _cloth boards_, 2_s_. _net_. GENTLEMEN--THE KING, 2_s_. + _net_. + + =Petrie (W. M. Flinders).= A HISTORY OF EGYPT. Illustrated. _Six + Volumes_. _Cr. 8vo_. _Each_ 9_s_. _net_. + + VOL. I. FROM THE IST TO THE XVITH DYNASTY. _Ninth Edition_. (10_s_. + 6_d_. _net_.) + + VOL. II. THE XVIITH AND XVIIITH DYNASTIES. _Sixth Edition_. + + VOL. III. XIXTH TO XXXTH DYNASTIES. _Second Edition_. + + VOL. IV. EGYPT UNDER THE PTOLEMAIC DYNASTY. J. P. MAHAFFY. _Second + Edition_. + + VOL. V. EGYPT UNDER ROMAN RULE. J. G. MILNE. _Second Edition_. + + VOL. VI. EGYPT IN THE MIDDLE AGES. STANLEY LANE POOLE. _Second + Edition_. + + SYRIA AND EGYPT, FROM THE TELL EL AMARNA LETTERS. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. First Series, IVth to + XIIth Dynasty. Illustrated. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + EGYPTIAN TALES. Translated from the Papyri. Second Series, XVIIITH + to XIXTH Dynasty. Illustrated. _Second Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. + _net_. + + =Pollard (A. F.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF THE GREAT WAR. With 19 Maps. + _Second Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Price (L. L.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF POLITICAL ECONOMY IN ENGLAND + FROM ADAM SMITH TO ARNOLD TOYNBEE. _Tenth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. + 5_s_. _net_. + + =Reid (G. Archdall).= THE LAWS OF HEREDITY. _Second Edition_. _Demy + 8vo_. L1. 1_s_. _net_. + + =Robertson (C. Grant).= SELECT STATUTES, CASES, AND DOCUMENTS, + 1660-1832. _Third Edition_. _Demy 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Selons (Edmund).= TOMMY SMITH'S ANIMALS. Illustrated. _Nineteenth + Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TOMMY SMITH'S OTHER ANIMALS. Illustrated. _Eleventh Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + TOMMY SMITH AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. + 2_s_. 9_d_. + + TOMMY SMITH AGAIN AT THE ZOO. Illustrated. _Second Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 2_s_. 9_d_. + + JACK'S INSECTS. _Popular Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. + + JACK'S OTHER INSECTS. _Cr. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. + + =Shelley (Percy Bysshe).= POEMS. With an Introduction by A. + CLUTTON-BROCK and Notes by C. D. LOCOCK. _Two Volumes_. _Demy 8vo_. + L1 1_s_. _net_. + + =Smith (Adam).= THE WEALTH OF NATIONS. Edited by EDWIN CANNAN. _Two + Volumes. Second Edition_. _Demy 8vo_. L1 10_s_. _net_. + + =Stevenson (R. L.).= THE LETTERS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. Edited + by Sir SIDNEY COLVIN. _A New Rearranged Edition in four volumes. + Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ 6_s_. _net_. + + =Surtees (R. S.).= HANDLEY CROSS. Illustrated. _Ninth Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. Illustrated. _Fifth Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + ASK MAMMA: OR, THE RICHEST COMMONER IN ENGLAND. Illustrated. + _Second Edition_. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + JORROCKS'S JAUNTS AND JOLLITIES. Illustrated. _Seventh Edition_. + _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + MR. FACEY ROMFORD'S HOUNDS. Illustrated. _Fourth Edition_. _Fcap. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + HAWBUCK GRANGE; OR, THE SPORTING ADVENTURES OF THOMAS SCOTT, ESQ. + Illustrated. _Fcap. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net_. + + PLAIN OR RINGLETS? Illustrated. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + HILLINGDON HALL. With 12 Coloured Plates by WILDRAKE, HEATH, and + JELLICOE. _Fcap. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Tilden (W. T.).= THE ART OF LAWN TENNIS. Illustrated. _Cr. 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net_. + + =Tileston (Mary W.).= DAILY STRENGTH FOR DAILY NEEDS. + _Twenty-seventh Edition_. _Medium 16mo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Underhill (Evelyn).= MYSTICISM. A Study in the Nature and + Development of Man's Spiritual Consciousness. _Eighth Edition_. + _Demy 8vo_. 15_s_. _net_. + + =Vardon (Harry).= HOW TO PLAY GOLF. Illustrated. _Thirteenth + Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. + + =Waterhouse (Elizabeth).= A LITTLE BOOK OF LIFE AND DEATH. + _Twentieth Edition_. _Small Pott 8vo. Cloth_, 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Wells (J.).= A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. _Seventeenth Edition_. With + 3 Maps. _Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. + + =Wilde (Oscar).= THE WORKS OF OSCAR WILDE. _Fcap. 8vo_. _Each_ + 6_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + I. LORD ARTHUR SAVILE'S CRIME AND THE PORTRAIT OF MR. W. H. II. THE + DUCHESS OF PADUA. III. POEMS. IV. LADY WINDERMERE'S FAN. V. A WOMAN + OF NO IMPORTANCE. VI. AN IDEAL HUSBAND. VII. THE IMPORTANCE OF + BEING EARNEST. VIII. A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES. IX. INTENTIONS. X. DE + PROFUNDIS AND PRISON LETTERS. XI. ESSAYS. XII. SALOME, A FLORENTINE + TRAGEDY, and LA SAINTE COURTISANE. XIII. A CRITIC IN PALL MALL. + XIV. SELECTED PROSE OF OSCAR WILDE. XV. ART AND DECORATION. + + A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES. Illustrated. _Cr. 4to_. 21_s_. _net_. + + =Yeats (W. B.).= A BOOK OF IRISH VERSE. _Fourth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. _net_. + + +Part II.--A Selection of Series + + =Ancient Cities= + + General Editor, SIR B. C. A. WINDLE + + _Cr. 8vo_. 6_s_. _net each volume_ + + With Illustrations by E. H. NEW, and other Artists + + BRISTOL. CANTERBURY. CHESTER. DUBLIN. + EDINBURGH. LINCOLN. SHREWSBURY WELLS and GLASTONBURY. + + + =The Antiquary's Books= + + General Editor, J. CHARLES COX + + _Demy 8vo_. 10_s_. 6_d_. _net each volume_ + + With Numerous Illustrations + + ANCIENT PAINTED GLASS IN ENGLAND. ARCHAEOLOGY AND FALSE ANTIQUITIES. + THE BELLS OF ENGLAND. THE BRASSES OF ENGLAND. THE CASTLES AND + WALLED TOWNS OF ENGLAND. CELTIC ART IN PAGAN AND CHRISTIAN TIMES. + CHURCH-WARDENS' ACCOUNTS. THE DOMESDAY INQUEST. ENGLISH CHURCH + FURNITURE. ENGLISH COSTUME. ENGLISH MONASTIC LIFE. ENGLISH SEALS. + FOLK-LORE AS AN HISTORICAL SCIENCE. THE GILDS AND COMPANIES OF + LONDON. THE HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND. THE MANOR AND + MANORIAL RECORDS. THE MEDIAEVAL HOSPITALS OF ENGLAND. OLD ENGLISH + INSTRUMENTS OF MUSIC. OLD ENGLISH LIBRARIES. OLD SERVICE BOOKS OF + THE ENGLISH CHURCH. PARISH LIFE IN MEDIAEVAL ENGLAND. THE PARISH + REGISTERS OF ENGLAND. REMAINS OF THE PREHISTORIC AGE IN ENGLAND. + THE ROMAN ERA IN BRITAIN. ROMANO-BRITISH BUILDINGS AND EARTH-WORKS. + THE ROYAL FORESTS OF ENGLAND. THE SCHOOLS OF MEDIAEVAL ENGLAND. + SHRINES OF BRITISH SAINTS. + + =The Arden Shakespeare= General Editor, R. H. CASE _Demy 8vo_. + 6_s_. _net each volume_ + +An edition of Shakespeare in Single Plays; each edited with a full +Introduction, Textual Notes, and a Commentary at the foot of the page. + + =Classics of Art= + + Edited by DR. J. H. W. LAING + + _With numerous Illustrations_. _Wide Royal 8vo_ + + THE ART OF THE GREEKS, 15_s_. _net_. THE ART OF THE ROMANS, 16_s_. + _net_. CHARDIN, 15_s_. _net_. DONATELLO, 16_s_. _net_. GEORGE + ROMNEY, 15_s_. _net_. GHIRLANDAIO, 15_s_. _net_. LAWRENCE, 25_s_. + _net_. MICHELANGELO, 15_s_. _net_. RAPHAEL, 15_s_. _net_. + REMBRANDT'S ETCHINGS, Two Vols., 25_s_. _net_. TINTORETTO, 16_s_. + _net_. TITIAN, 16_s_. _net_. TURNER'S SKETCHES AND DRAWINGS, 15_s_. + _net_. VELAZQUEZ, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =The 'Complete' Series= + + _Fully Illustrated_. _Demy 8vo_ + + THE COMPLETE AMATEUR BOXER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + ASSOCIATION FOOTBALLER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE ATHLETIC + TRAINER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE BILLIARD PLAYER, 12_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE COOK, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + CRICKETER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE FOXHUNTER, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE GOLFER, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + HOCKEY-PLAYER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE HORSEMAN, 12_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE JUJITSUAN. _Cr. 8vo_. 5_s_. _net_. THE + COMPLETE LAWN TENNIS PLAYER, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + MOTORIST, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE MOUNTAINEER, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE OARSMAN, 15_s_. _net_. The Complete + Photographer, 15_s_. _net_. THE COMPLETE RUGBY FOOTBALLER, ON THE + NEW ZEALAND SYSTEM, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE SHOT, 16_s_. + _net_. THE COMPLETE SWIMMER, 10_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE COMPLETE + YACHTSMAN, 16_s_. _net_. + + + =The Connoisseur's Library= + + _With numerous Illustrations_. _Wide Royal 8vo_. 25_s_. _net each + volume_ + + ENGLISH COLOURED BOOKS. ENGLISH FURNITURE. ETCHINGS. EUROPEAN + ENAMELS. FINE BOOKS. GLASS. GOLDSMITHS' AND SILVERSMITHS' WORK. + ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS. IVORIES. JEWELLERY. MEZZOTINTS. + MINIATURES. PORCELAIN. SEALS. WOOD SCULPTURE. + + + =Handbooks of Theology= + + _Demy 8vo_ + + THE DOCTRINE OF THE INCARNATION, 15_s_. _net_. A HISTORY OF EARLY + CHRISTIAN DOCTRINE, 16_s_. _net_. INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF + RELIGION, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF THE + CREEDS, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION IN ENGLAND + AND AMERICA, 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE XXXIX ARTICLES OF THE CHURCH + OF ENGLAND, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =Health Series= + + _Fcap_ 8_vo_. 2_s_. 6_d. net_ + + THE BABY. THE CARE OF THE BODY. THE CARE OF THE TEETH. THE EYES OF + OUR CHILDREN. HEALTH FOR THE MIDDLE-AGED. THE HEALTH OF A WOMAN. + THE HEALTH OF THE SKIN. HOW TO LIVE LONG. THE PREVENTION OF THE + COMMON COLD. STAYING THE PLAGUE. THROAT AND EAR TROUBLES. + TUBERCULOSIS. THE HEALTH OF THE CHILD, 2_s_. _net_. + + + =Leaders of Religion= + + Edited by H. C. BEECHING. _With Portraits_ + + _Crown 8vo_. 3_s_. _net each volume_ + + + =The Library of Devotion= + +Handy Editions of the great Devotional Books, well edited. With +Introductions and (where necessary) Notes + + _Small Pott 8vo, cloth_, 3_s_. _net and_ 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_ + + + =Little Books on Art= + + _With many Illustrations. Demy 16mo_. 5_s_. _net each volume_ + +Each volume consists of about 200 pages, and contains from 30 to 40 +Illustrations, including a Frontispiece in Photogravure + + ALBRECHT DUeRER. THE ARTS OF JAPAN. BOOKPLATES. BOTTICELLI. + BURNE-JONES. CELLINI. CHRISTIAN SYMBOLISM. CHRIST IN ART. CLAUDE. + CONSTABLE. COROT. EARLY ENGLISH WATER-COLOUR. ENAMELS. FREDERIC + LEIGHTON. GEORGE ROMNEY. GREEK ART. GREUZE AND BOUCHER. HOLBEIN. + ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS. JEWELLERY. JOHN HOPPNER. SIR JOSHUA + REYNOLDS. MILLET. MINIATURES. OUR LADY IN ART. RAPHAEL. RODIN. + TURNER. VANDYCK. VELAZQUEZ. WATTS. + + + =The Little Guides= + +With many Illustrations by E. H. NEW and other artists, and from +photographs + + _Small Pott 8vo_. 4_s_. _net_, 5_s_. _net, and_ 6_s_. _net_ + +Guides to the English and Welsh Counties, and some well-known districts + +The main features of these Guides are (1) a handy and charming form; (2) +illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists; (3) good plans +and maps; (4) an adequate but compact presentation of everything that is +interesting in the natural features, history, archaeology, and +architecture of the town or district treated. + + + =The Little Quarto Shakespeare= + + Edited by W. J. CRAIG. With Introductions and Notes + + _Pott 16mo. 40 Volumes_. _Leather, price_ 1_s_. 9_d_. _net each + volume_ _Cloth_, 1_s_. 6_d_. + + + =Plays= + + _Fcap. 8vo_. 3_s_. 6_d_. _net_ + + MILESTONES. Arnold Bennett and Edward Knoblock. _Ninth Edition_. + + IDEAL HUSBAND, AN. Oscar Wilde. _Acting Edition_. + + KISMET. Edward Knoblock. _Fourth Edition_. + + TYPHOON. A Play in Four Acts. Melchior Lengyel. English Version by + Laurence Irving. _Second Edition_. + + WARE CASE, THE. George Pleydell. + + GENERAL POST. J. E. Harold Terry. _Second Edition_. + + + =Sports Series= + + _Illustrated. Fcap. 8vo_ + + ALL ABOUT FLYING, 3_s_. _net_. GOLF DO'S AND DONT'S, 2_s_. _net_. + THE GOLFING SWING. 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOW TO SWIM, 2_s_. _net_. + LAWN TENNIS, 3_s_. _net_. SKATING, 3_s_. _net_. CROSS-COUNTRY + SKI-ING, 5_s_. _net_. WRESTLING, 2_s_. _net_. QUICK CUTS TO GOOD + GOLF, 2_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOCKEY, 4_s_. _net_. + + + =The Westminster Commentaries= + + General Editor, WALTER LOCK + + _Demy 8vo_ + + THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES, 16_s_. _net_. AMOS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. I. + CORINTHIANS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. EXODUS, 15_s_. _net_. EZEKIEL, + 12_s_. 6_d_. _net_. GENESIS, 16_s_. _net_. HEBREWS, 8_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. ISAIAH, 16_s_. _net_. JEREMIAH, 16_s_. _net_. JOB, 8_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. THE PASTORAL EPISTLES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE + PHILIPPIANS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. ST. JAMES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. ST. + MATTHEW, 15_s_. _net_. + + + =Methuen's Two-Shilling Library= + + Cheap Editions of many Popular Books + + _Fcap. 8vo_ + + +PART III.--A SELECTION OF WORKS OF FICTION + + =Bennett (Arnold)=-- + + CLAYHANGER, 8_s_. _net_. HILDA LESSWAYS, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THESE + TWAIN. THE CARD. THE REGENT: A Five Towns Story of Adventure in + London. THE PRICE OF LOVE. BURIED ALIVE. A MAN FROM THE NORTH. THE + MATADOR OF THE FIVE TOWNS. WHOM GOD HATH JOINED. A GREAT MAN: A + Frolic. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Birmingham (George A.)=-- + + SPANISH GOLD. THE SEARCH PARTY. LALAGE'S LOVERS. THE BAD TIMES. UP, + THE REBELS. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. INISHEENY, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Burroughs (Edgar Rice)=-- + + TARZAN OF THE APES, 6_s_. _net_. THE RETURN OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. + THE BEASTS OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. THE SON OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. + JUNGLE TALES OF TARZAN, 6_s_. _net_. TARZAN AND THE JEWELS OF OPAR, + 6_s_. _net_. TARZAN THE UNTAMED, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. A PRINCESS OF + MARS, 6_s_. _net_. THE GODS OF MARS, 6_s_. _net_. THE WARLORD OF + MARS, 6_s_. _net_. + + =Conrad (Joseph).= A SET OF SIX, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VICTORY: An + Island Tale. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. THE SECRET AGENT: A Simple + Tale. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. UNDER WESTERN EYES. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. + _net_. CHANCE. _Cr. 8vo_. 9_s_. _net_. + + =Corelli (Marie)=-- + + A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VENDETTA: or, The Story + of One Forgotten, 8_s_. _net_. THELMA: A Norwegian Princess, 8_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. ARDATH: The Story of a Dead Self, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + THE SOUL OF LILITH, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. WORMWOOD: A Drama of Paris, + 8_s_. _net_. BARABBAS: A Dream of the World's Tragedy, 8_s_. _net_. + THE SORROWS OF SATAN, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE MASTER-CHRISTIAN, + 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. TEMPORAL POWER: A Study in Supremacy, 6_s_. + _net_. GOD'S GOOD MAN: A Simple Love Story, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. HOLY + ORDERS: The Tragedy of a Quiet Life, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE MIGHTY + ATOM, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. BOY: A Sketch, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. CAMEOS, + 6_s_. _net_. THE LIFE EVERLASTING, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE LOVE OF + LONG AGO, AND OTHER STORIES, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Doyle (Sir A. Conan).= ROUND THE RED LAMP. _Twelfth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hichens (Robert)=-- + + TONGUES OF CONSCIENCE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. FELIX: Three Years in a + Life, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + BYEWAYS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE GARDEN OF ALLAH, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + THE CALL OF THE BLOOD, 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. BARBARY SHEEP, 6_s_. + _net_. THE DWELLERS ON THE THRESHOLD, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WAY OF + AMBITION, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. IN THE WILDERNESS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Hope (Anthony)=-- + + A CHANGE OF AIR. A MAN OF MARK. THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. + SIMON DALE. THE KING'S MIRROR. QUISANTE. THE DOLLY DIALOGUES. TALES + OF TWO PEOPLE. A SERVANT OF THE PUBLIC. MRS. MAXON PROTESTS. A + YOUNG MAN'S YEAR. BEAUMAROY HOME FROM THE WARS. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Jacobs (W. W.)=-- + + MANY CARGOES, 5_s_. _net_. SEA URCHINS, 5_s_. _net_ and 3_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. A MASTER OF CRAFT, 5_s_. _net_. LIGHT FREIGHTS, 5_s_. _net_. + THE SKIPPER'S WOOING, 5_s_. _net_. AT SUNWICH PORT, 5_s_. _net_. + DIALSTONE LANE, 5_s_. _net_. ODD CRAFT, 5_s_. _net_. THE LADY OF + THE BARGE, 5_s_. _net_. SALTHAVEN, 5_s_. _net_. SAILORS' KNOTS, + 5_s_. _net_. SHORT CRUISES, 6_s_. _net_. + + =London (Jack).= WHITE FANG. _Ninth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Lucas (E. V.)=-- + + LISTENER'S LURE: An Oblique Narration, 6_s_. _net_. OVER + BEMERTON'S: An Easy-going Chronicle, 6_s_. _net_. MR. INGLESIDE, + 6_s_. _net_. LONDON LAVENDER, 6_s_. _net_. LANDMARKS, 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. THE VERMILION BOX, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. VERENA IN THE MIDST, + 8_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =McKenna (Stephen)=-- + + SONIA: Between Two Worlds, 8_s_. _net_. NINETY-SIX HOURS' LEAVE, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE SIXTH SENSE, 6_s_. _net_. MIDAS & SON, 8_s_. + _net_. + + =Malet (Lucas)=-- + + THE HISTORY OF SIR RICHARD CALMADY: A Romance. THE CARISSIMA. THE + GATELESS BARRIER. DEADHAM HARD. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE WAGES + OF SIN. 8_s_. _net_. + + =Mason (A. E. W.).= CLEMENTINA. Illustrated. _Ninth Edition_. _Cr. + 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Maxwell (W. B.)=-- + + VIVIEN. THE GUARDED FLAME. ODD LENGTHS. HILL RISE. THE REST CURE. + _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Oxenham (John)=-- + + A WEAVER OF WEBS. PROFIT AND LOSS. THE SONG OF HYACINTH, AND OTHER + STORIES. LAURISTONS. THE COIL OF CARNE. THE QUEST OF THE GOLDEN + ROSE. MARY ALL-ALONE. BROKEN SHACKLES. "1914." _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Parker (Gilbert)=-- + + PIERRE AND HIS PEOPLE. MRS. FALCHION. THE TRANSLATION OF A SAVAGE. + WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC: The Story of a Lost Napoleon. AN + ADVENTURER OF THE NORTH: The Last Adventures of 'Pretty Pierre.' + THE SEATS OF THE MIGHTY. THE BATTLE OF THE STRONG: A Romance of Two + Kingdoms. THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. NORTHERN LIGHTS. _All_ 7_s_. + 6_d_. _net_. + + =Phillpotts (Eden)=-- + + CHILDREN OF THE MIST. SONS OF THE MORNING. THE RIVER. THE AMERICAN + PRISONER. DEMETER'S DAUGHTER. THE HUMAN BOY AND THE WAR. _All_ + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Ridge (W. Pett)=-- + + A SON OF THE STATE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. THE REMINGTON SENTENCE, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. MADAME PRINCE, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. TOP SPEED, + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. SPECIAL PERFORMANCES, 6_s_. _net_. THE BUSTLING + HOURS, 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Rohmer (Sax)=-- + + THE DEVIL DOCTOR. THE SI-FAN MYSTERIES. TALES OF SECRET EGYPT. THE + ORCHARD OF TEARS. THE GOLDEN SCORPION. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Swinnerton (F.).= SHOPS AND HOUSES. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. + 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + SEPTEMBER. _Third Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + THE HAPPY FAMILY. _Second Edition_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + ON THE STAIRCASE. _Third Edition_. 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. + + =Wells (H. G.).= BEALBY. _Fourth Edition_. _Cr. 8vo_. 7_s_. 6_d_. + _net_. + + =Williamson (C. N.= and =A. M.)=-- + + THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR: The Strange Adventures of a Motor Car. + LADY BETTY ACROSS THE WATER. SCARLET RUNNER. LORD LOVELAND + DISCOVERS AMERICA. THE GUESTS OF HERCULES. IT HAPPENED IN EGYPT. A + SOLDIER OF THE LEGION. THE SHOP GIRL. THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTRESS. + SECRET HISTORY. THE LOVE PIRATE. _All_ 7_s_. 6_d_. _net_. CRUCIFIX + CORNER. 6_s_. _net_. + + + =Methuen's Two-Shilling Novels= + + Cheap Editions of many of the most Popular Novels of the day + + _Write for Complete List_ + + _Fcap. 8vo_. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + Transcriber's notes: + + Fixed up various commas and full-stops. + Hyphens are determined by the majority with or without-- + + Taken hyphen out in 'countryside'. + Put hyphen in 'blue-jackets'. + Taken hyphen out in 'foreshore'. + Taken hyphen out in 'flagship'. + Put hyphen in 'out-turn'. + Taken hyphen out in 'pressmen'. + Put hyphen in 'bare-headed'. + Put hyphen in 'foot-plate'. + Put hyphen in 'hard-wood'. + Put hyphen in 'home-like'. + Taken hyphen out in 'inshore'. + Taken hyphen out in 'pineapples'. + Put hyphen in 'Red-legs'. + Taken hyphen out in 'roadside'. + P.43, 44, 214 & index, 'Khava' should be 'Kava', changed. + P.43. 'Yagona' should be 'Yaqona', changed. + P.50. 'bougainvillias' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed. + P.55. 'Hinomaa' should be 'Hinemoa', changed in text and index. + P.56. 't seems' should be 'it', changed. + P.75. 'Wanganoa' should be 'Wangamoa'. changed. + P.87. 'Reformerst' should be 'Reformers', changed. + P.135 & index. 'Paramatta' should be 'Parramatta', changed. + P.198. 'billee' tea should be 'billy' tea, changed. + P.202. 'gulahs' should be 'galahs', but also known as 'gallahs' changed. + P.206 & index. 'Canoblas' should be 'Canobolas', and the index + should be 'p.206.' changed. + P.206. 'Dubho' should be 'Dubbo', changed. + P.224. Taken out dash from 'sugar-'. + P.237 & P.239. 'bougainvilliers' should be 'bougainvilleas', changed. + P.244. 'Graymouth' should be 'Greymouth', changed. + P.250, index. 'Dubho' in index should be 'Dubbo', changed. + + In TEXT version: + + Italics is displayed as _Second Editions_. + Bold is displayed as =Williamson=. + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Down Under With the Prince, by Everard Cotes + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOWN UNDER WITH THE PRINCE *** + +***** This file should be named 38691.txt or 38691.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/6/9/38691/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Jane Robins and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/38691.zip b/38691.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1022b5e --- /dev/null +++ b/38691.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d194756 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #38691 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/38691) |
