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diff --git a/39068.txt b/39068.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e00ba36 --- /dev/null +++ b/39068.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14412 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Historic Shrines of America, by John T. (John +Thomson) Faris + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Historic Shrines of America + Being the Story of One Hundred and Twenty Historic Buildings and the Pioneers Who Made Them Notable + + +Author: John T. (John Thomson) Faris + + + +Release Date: March 6, 2012 [eBook #39068] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORIC SHRINES OF AMERICA*** + + +E-text prepared by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made +available by Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 39068-h.htm or 39068-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39068/39068-h/39068-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/39068/39068-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + http://www.archive.org/details/historicshrines00faririch + + +Transcriber's note: + + Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + + + + + +HISTORIC SHRINES OF AMERICA + +by + +JOHN T. FARIS + + + [Illustration: INDEPENDENCE HALL, REAR VIEW, PHILADELPHIA + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_] + + + + +HISTORIC SHRINES OF AMERICA + +Being the Story of One Hundred and Twenty Historic Buildings +and the Pioneers Who Made Them Notable + +by + +JOHN T. FARIS + +Member of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania and Fellow of the +American Geographical Society +Author of "Real Stories from Our History," "Old Roads +Out of Philadelphia," etc. + +Illustrated + + + + + + + +New York +George H. Doran Company + +Copyright, 1918, +By George H. Doran Company + +Printed in the United States of America + + + + +FOREWORD + + +Circular tours have long been popular in England. There was a time--as +there will be a time again--when American visitors felt that to make +the rounds of the cathedral towns or the historic castles or the homes +and haunts of great men and women, was a necessary part of seeing the +tight little island. + +"What a pity it is that we in America have no such wealth of historic +places," one returning tourist was heard to remark. "Oh, of course, +there are a few spots like Independence Hall and Concord and +Lexington," he went on, "but there are not enough of them to make it +worth while to plan a tour such as those in which we have taken +delight in England." + +It was easy to point out to the traveler his mistake; most Americans +know that the country is rich in places of historic interest. Just how +rich it is they may not realize until they make a serious study of the +landmarks of their own land, as does the European tourist of the +centers noted in his guidebook. + +In fact, there are in America so many houses, churches, and other +buildings having a vital connection with our history that volumes +would be required to tell of them all. Even a brief record of the +buildings whose owners or occupants played a conspicuous part in the +early history of the country would fill a large book. + +It is fascinating to learn of these houses and public buildings and to +delve into the biographies which tell what happened to the people who +lived in them. Fiction seems tame after connecting, for instance, the +story of Alexander Hamilton and Elizabeth Schuyler with the Ford +Mansion and the Campfield House at Morristown, New Jersey, then with +the Schuyler Mansion in Albany, New York, and The Grange in New York +City. The heart of the patriot burns with new love for his country as +he reads of Faneuil Hall and the Old South Church and Carpenters' +Hall. The story of the Revolution is clothed with living interest when +Washington and his generals are followed to Valley Forge and Newburgh +and Cambridge and Morristown and Princeton. Fresh appreciation of the +sacrifice of the pioneers comes from going with them into the garrison +houses of New England, along the Wilderness Road in Kentucky, to the +settlements on the Ohio, or to the banks of the Wabash where more than +one Indian treaty was made. + +Next comes the keen pleasure of visiting the houses and churches +which, through the piecing together of these facts, have become like +familiar friends. The vacation journey that includes a careful study +of a few of these buildings becomes a fascinating course in +patriotism. + +It is the purpose of the author of "Historic Shrines of America" to +tell just enough about each of one hundred and twenty of these +buildings of historic interest to create a hunger for more; to present +pictures sufficiently attractive to make those who turn the pages of +the book determine to visit the places described; to arrange the brief +chapters in such sequence that it will be possible for the reader to +plan for successive vacations a series of journeys through the centers +where historic buildings may be found, and, in doing this, to pass by +so many structures of interest that the reader and the tourist will +have abundant opportunity to discover houses and churches of which he +will say, "I wonder why this was not included." + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER PAGE + + + ONE: IN THE LAND OF THE PILGRIMS + + I THE OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 19 + + II PAUL REVERE'S HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 23 + + III FANEUIL HALL, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 28 + + IV THREE HISTORIC CHURCHES OF BOSTON 32 + + V ELMWOOD, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 36 + + VI THE CRAIGIE HOUSE, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 40 + + VII THE ADAMS HOUSES, QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS 44 + + VIII THE QUINCY MANSION, QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS 49 + + IX FERNSIDE FARM, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 54 + + X THE DUSTON GARRISON HOUSE, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 56 + + XI THE OLD MANSE AND THE WAYSIDE, CONCORD, + MASSACHUSETTS 61 + + XII THE ROYALL HOUSE, MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 66 + + XIII BROADHEARTH AND THE BENNET-BOARDMAN HOUSE, + SAUGUS, MASSACHUSETTS 69 + + XIV THE COLONEL JEREMIAH LEE HOUSE, MARBLEHEAD, + MASSACHUSETTS 72 + + XV THE OLD SOUTH CHURCH, NEWBURYPORT, MASSACHUSETTS 75 + + XVI THE FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH, PROVIDENCE, RHODE + ISLAND 80 + + + TWO: WHERE PATROONS AND KNICKERBOCKERS + FLOURISHED + + XVII THE MORRIS-JUMEL MANSION, NEW YORK CITY 87 + + XVIII THE PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, NEW YORK 91 + + XIX ST. PAUL'S CHAPEL, NEW YORK CITY 95 + + XX FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY 97 + + XXI THE GRANGE, NEW YORK CITY 100 + + XXII THE VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY 104 + + XXIII THE HASBROUCK HOUSE, NEWBURGH, NEW YORK 106 + + + THREE: ACROSS THE JERSEYS WITH THE PATRIOTS + + XXIV THE FRANKLIN PALACE, PERTH AMBOY, NEW JERSEY 115 + + XXV THE CHURCH AT CALDWELL, NEW JERSEY 119 + + XXVI OLD TENNENT CHURCH, FREEHOLD, NEW JERSEY 122 + + XXVII THE FORD MANSION, MORRISTOWN, NEW JERSEY 126 + + XXVIII NASSAU HALL, PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY 130 + + XXIX THREE HISTORIC HOUSES AT PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY 134 + + XXX THE SPRINGFIELD MEETING HOUSE, NEW JERSEY 138 + + + FOUR: RAMBLES ABOUT THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE + + XXXI THE LETITIA PENN HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA 145 + + XXXII CARPENTERS' HALL, PHILADELPHIA 149 + + XXXIII ST. PETER'S CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA 153 + + XXXIV CLIVEDEN, GERMANTOWN, PHILADELPHIA 156 + + XXXV OLD PINE STREET CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA 159 + + XXXVI INDEPENDENCE HALL, PHILADELPHIA 162 + + XXXVII THE DAVID RITTENHOUSE HOME, NEAR PHILADELPHIA 170 + + XXXVIII THE HEADQUARTERS AT VALLEY FORGE, PENNSYLVANIA 174 + + XXXIX THREE HEADQUARTERS OF WASHINGTON 178 + + XL SWEETBRIER-ON-THE-SCHUYLKILL, PHILADELPHIA 183 + + XLI MILL GROVE AND FATLANDS, NEAR PHILADELPHIA 187 + + XLII WAYNESBOROUGH, NEAR PAOLI, PENNSYLVANIA 192 + + XLIII THE MORAVIAN CHURCH, BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA 196 + + + FIVE: OVER THE MASON AND DIXON LINE + + XLIV HISTORIC LANDMARKS AT NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 203 + + XLV THE RIDGELY HOUSE, DOVER, DELAWARE 208 + + XLVI REHOBOTH CHURCH ON THE POCOMOKE, MARYLAND 211 + + XLVII DOUGHOREGAN MANOR, NEAR ELLICOTT CITY, MARYLAND 216 + + XLVIII THE UPTON SCOTT HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND 220 + + XLIX THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON 225 + + L THE WHITE HOUSE, WASHINGTON 230 + + LI THE OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON 234 + + + SIX: HOMES AND HAUNTS OF THE CAVALIERS + + LII MOUNT VERNON, VIRGINIA 241 + + LIII ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA 246 + + LIV CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA 249 + + LV THE MARY WASHINGTON HOUSE, FREDERICKSBURG, + VIRGINIA 251 + + LVI GREENWAY AND SHERWOOD FOREST, VIRGINIA 257 + + LVII TWO HISTORIC COURTHOUSES OF VIRGINIA 262 + + LVIII ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, RICHMOND 266 + + LIX THE NELSON HOUSE AND THE MOORE HOUSE, YORKTOWN, + VIRGINIA 270 + + LX THE JOHN MARSHALL HOUSE, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA 274 + + LXI FIVE OLD HOUSES OF TIDEWATER, VIRGINIA 278 + + LXII GUNSTON HALL, VIRGINIA 281 + + LXIII THE WASHINGTON COLLEGE BUILDING, LEXINGTON, + VIRGINIA 285 + + LXIV BRUTON PARISH CHURCH, WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA 288 + + LXV WILLIAM AND MARY COLLEGE, WILLIAMSBURG, + VIRGINIA 291 + + LXVI THE MONUMENTAL CHURCH, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA 294 + + LXVII MONTPELIER, ORANGE COUNTY, VIRGINIA 296 + + LXVIII OAK HILL, LOUDOUN COUNTY, VIRGINIA 301 + + LXIX RED HILL, CHARLOTTE COUNTY, VIRGINIA 305 + + LXX POHICK CHURCH, TRURO PARISH, VIRGINIA 311 + + LXXI MOUNT AIRY, RICHMOND COUNTY, VIRGINIA 314 + + LXXII TWO OF VIRGINIA'S OLDEST CHURCH BUILDINGS 318 + + LXXIII MONTICELLO, NEAR CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA 322 + + LXXIV THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA AT CHARLOTTESVILLE, + VIRGINIA 326 + + + SEVEN: THROUGH THE SUNNY SOUTH + + LXXV THREE OLD CHURCHES IN CHARLESTON, SOUTH + CAROLINA 333 + + LXXVI THE HOUSE OF REBECCA MOTTE, CHARLESTON, SOUTH + CAROLINA 336 + + LXXVII THE INDEPENDENT CHURCH, SAVANNAH, GEORGIA 340 + + LXXVIII THE CABILDO OF NEW ORLEANS 343 + + LXXIX THE ALAMO, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS 347 + + LXXX THE HERMITAGE, NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE 351 + + LXXXI ASHLAND, LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY 355 + + LXXXII SPORTSMAN'S HALL, WHITLEY'S STATION, KENTUCKY 359 + + LXXXIII WHITE HAVEN, NEAR ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 362 + + + EIGHT: ALL THE WAY BACK TO NEW ENGLAND + + LXXXIV THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN HOUSE, SPRINGFIELD, ILLINOIS 369 + + LXXXV THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE AT VINCENNES, INDIANA 374 + + LXXXVI THE HOUSE OF GENERAL RUFUS PUTNAM, MARIETTA, + OHIO 377 + + LXXXVII MONUMENT PLACE, ELM GROVE, WEST VIRGINIA 381 + + LXXXVIII THE CASTLE AT FORT NIAGARA, NEW YORK 386 + + LXXXIX THE SCHUYLER MANSION, ALBANY, NEW YORK 391 + + XC THE WENTWORTH HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE 395 + + XCI THE WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW HOUSE, PORTLAND, MAINE 400 + + BIBLIOGRAPHY 407 + + INDEX 411 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + INDEPENDENCE HALL, REAR VIEW, PHILADELPHIA, + PENNSYLVANIA _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE + + OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 25 + + PAUL REVERE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 26 + + HANCOCK-CLARKE HOUSE, LEXINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS 26 + + OLD NORTH CHURCH, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 34 + + OLD SOUTH CHURCH, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 35 + + CRAIGIE HOUSE, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS 48 + + FERNSIDE FARM, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 48 + + DUSTON GARRISON HOUSE, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 49 + + ROYALL HOUSE, MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 49 + + BROADHEARTH, SAUGUS, MASSACHUSETTS 70 + + BENNET-BOARDMAN HOUSE, SAUGUS, MASSACHUSETTS 70 + + OLD SOUTH CHURCH, NEWBURYPORT, MASSACHUSETTS 71 + + MORRIS-JUMEL HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY 97 + + PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, NEW YORK 97 + + FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY 98 + + VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY 98 + + THE FRANKLIN PALACE, PERTH AMBOY, NEW JERSEY 121 + + OLD TENNENT CHURCH, FREEHOLD, NEW JERSEY 121 + + NASSAU HALL AND THE FIRST PRESIDENT'S HOUSE, PRINCETON, + NEW JERSEY 122 + + MORVEN, PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY 122 + + LETITIA PENN HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 146 + + ST. PETER'S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA, + PENNSYLVANIA 147 + + CLIVEDEN, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 160 + + THIRD (OLD PINE STREET) PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, + PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 160 + + DAVID RITTENHOUSE'S HOUSE, NORRISTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA 161 + + DAWESFIELD, NEAR PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 161 + + EMLEN HOUSE, NEAR PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 179 + + FATLANDS, NEAR PHOENIXVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA 179 + + WAYNESBOROUGH, PAOLI, PENNSYLVANIA 180 + + MORAVIAN CHURCH, BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA 180 + + AMSTEL HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 205 + + DOORWAY OF AMSTEL HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 205 + + HALL OF READ HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 205 + + DOORWAY OF RODNEY HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 206 + + DOORWAY OF STEWART HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 206 + + DOORWAY OF READ HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 206 + + DOORWAY OF PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 206 + + IMMANUEL CHURCH, NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE 217 + + RIDGELY HOUSE, DOVER, DELAWARE 218 + + DOUGHOREGAN MANOR, NEAR ELLICOTT CITY, MARYLAND 218 + + UPTON SCOTT HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND 233 + + OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C. 233 + + THE STAIRWAY, OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C. 234 + + MOUNT VERNON, VIRGINIA, REAR VIEW 244 + + ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA 244 + + CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA 245 + + MARY WASHINGTON'S HOUSE, FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA 262 + + HANOVER COURT HOUSE, VIRGINIA 262 + + ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA 263 + + NELSON HOUSE, YORKTOWN, VIRGINIA 263 + + WESTOVER ON THE JAMES, VIRGINIA 282 + + GUNSTON HALL ON THE POTOMAC, VIRGINIA 282 + + WASHINGTON COLLEGE BUILDING, LEXINGTON, VIRGINIA 283 + + BRUTON PARISH CHURCH, WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA 283 + + MONUMENTAL CHURCH, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA 314 + + POHICK CHURCH, VIRGINIA 314 + + MOUNT AIRY, RICHMOND COUNTY, VIRGINIA 315 + + UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA, CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA 315 + + INDEPENDENT PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, SAVANNAH, GEORGIA 336 + + PRINGLE HOUSE, CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA 337 + + THE CABILDO, NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA 337 + + THE HERMITAGE, NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE 352 + + ASHLAND, LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY 352 + + SPORTSMAN'S HALL, WHITLEY'S STATION, KENTUCKY 353 + + WHITE HAVEN, ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 353 + + ABRAHAM LINCOLN'S HOUSE, SPRINGFIELD, ILLINOIS 370 + + WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON'S HOUSE, VINCENNES, INDIANA 370 + + RUFUS PUTNAM'S HOUSE, MARIETTA, OHIO 371 + + THE SCHUYLER MANSION, ALBANY, NEW YORK 371 + + WENTWORTH HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE 394 + + WARNER HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE 394 + + WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW HOUSE, PORTLAND, MAINE 395 + + + + +ONE: IN THE LAND OF THE PILGRIMS + + The riches of the Commonwealth + Are free, strong minds, and hearts of health; + And more to her than gold or grain, + The cunning hand and cultured brain. + + For well she keeps her ancient stock, + The stubborn strength of Pilgrim Rock; + And still maintains, with milder laws, + And clearer light, the Good Old Cause! + + Nor heeds the skeptic's puny hands, + While near her school the church-spire stands; + Nor fears the blinded bigot's rule, + While near her church-spire stands the school. + + --JOHN GREENLEAF WHITTIER. + + + + +ONE: IN THE LAND OF THE PILGRIMS + + [Illustration: OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company, Boston_ + See Page 19] + + +I + +THE OLD STATE HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS + +FROM WHOSE BALCONY THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE WAS PROCLAIMED + +Thirty-three years after Captain John Smith sailed into Boston Harbor, +the first Town House was built. This was in 1657. The second Town +House, which was built on the same site, was erected in 1712. In 1748 +the third Town House, later the Old State House, followed the +structure of 1712, the outer walls of the old building being used in +the new. + +Since 1689, when Governor Andros' tyranny was overthrown, the old +building has been in the thick of historic events. How it figured in +the Boston Massacre was shown by John Tudor in his diary. He wrote: + + "March, 1770. On Monday evening the 5th current, a few + Minutes after 9 o'clock a most horrid murder was committed in + King Street before the custom house Door by 8 or 9 Soldiers + under the Command of Capt. Thos Preston of the Main Guard on + the South side of the Town House. This unhappy affair began + by Some Boys & young fellows throwing Snow Balls at the + sentry placed at the Custom house Door. On which 8 or 9 + Soldiers Came to his Assistance. Soon after a Number of + people collected, when the Capt commanded the Soldiers to + fire, which they did and 3 Men were Kil'd on the Spot & + several Mortaly Wounded, one of which died next Morning.... + Leut Governor Hutchinson, who was Commander in Chiefe, was + sent for & Came to the Council Chamber, where some of the + Magustrates attended. The Governor desired the Multitude + about 10 O'Clock to sepperat & to go home peaceable & he + would do all in his power that Justice should be done &c. The + 29 Regiment being then under Arms on the south side of the + Townhouse, but the people insisted that the Soldiers should + be ordered to their Barracks first before they would + sepperat. Which being done the people sepperated aboute 1 + O'Clock." + +Next day the people met in Faneuil Hall, and demanded the immediate +removal of the troops. The demand being refused, they met again at +Faneuil Hall, but adjourned to Old South Church, since the larger hall +was required to accommodate the aroused citizens. A new committee, +headed by Samuel Adams, sought Hutchinson in the Council Chamber of +the Town House, and secured his permission to remove the troops +without delay. + +The next event of note in the history of the old building was the +public reading there of the Declaration of Independence on July 18, +1776, in accordance with the message of John Hancock, President of the +Continental Congress, who asked that it be proclaimed "in such a mode +that the people may be impressed by it." + +Abigail Adams told in a letter to her husband, John Adams, of the +reading: + + "I went with the multitude to King street to hear the + Declaration Proclamation for Independence read and + proclaimed.... Great attention was given to every word.... + Thus ends royal Authority in the state." + +A British prisoner on parole, who was an invited guest at the reading +of the Declaration, wrote a detailed narrative of the events of the +day, in the Town Hall, in which he said: + + "Exactly as the clock struck one, Colonel Crafts, who + occupied the chair, rose and, silence being obtained, read + aloud the declaration, which announced to the world that the + tie of allegiance and protection, which had so long held + Britain and her North American colonies together, was forever + separated. This being finished, the gentlemen stood up, and + each, repeating the words as they were spoken by an officer, + swore to uphold, at the sacrifice of life, the rights of his + country. Meanwhile the town clerk read from the balcony the + Declaration of Independence to the crowd; at the close of + which, a Shout began in the hall, passed like an electric + spark to the streets, which rang with loud huzzas, the slow + and measured boom of Cannon, and the rattle of musketry." + +Thirteen years later, when Washington visited Boston, he passed +through a triumphal arch to the State House. In his diary he told of +what followed his entrance to the historic building: + + "Three cheers was given by a vast concourse of people, Who, + by this time, had assembled at the Arch--then followed an ode + composed in honor of the President; and well sung by a band + of select singers--After this three cheers--followed by the + different Professions and Mechanics in the order they were + drawn up, with their colors, through a lane of the people + which had thronged about the arch under which they passed." + +The ode sung that day was as follows: + + "General Washington, the hero's come, + Each heart exulting hears the sound; + See, thousands their deliverer throng, + And shout his welcome all around. + Now in full chorus bursts the song, + And shout the deeds of Washington." + +The Old State House was near destruction in 1835, as a result of the +uproar that followed the attempt of William Lloyd Garrison to make an +abolition address in the hall next door to the office of the +_Liberator_, whose editor he was. A furious crowd demanded his blood, +and he was persuaded to retire. Later the doors of the _Liberator_ +office where he had taken refuge were broken down, and, after a chase, +the hunted man was seized and dragged to the rear of the Old State +House, then used as the City Hall and Post-office. The mayor rescued +him from the mob, which was talking of hanging him, and carried him +into the State House. The threats of the outwitted people became so +loud that it was feared the building would be destroyed and that +Garrison would be killed. As soon as possible, therefore, he was +spirited away to the Leverett Street jail. + +For many years, until 1882, the Old State House was used for business +purposes, after previous service as Town House, City Hall, Court +House, and State House. It is now used as a historical museum by the +Bostonian Society. + +The historic halls within the building have the same walls and +ceilings as when the old house was erected in 1748. For many years the +exterior was covered with unsightly paint, but this has been scraped +off, and the brick walls gleam red as in former days. + + + [Illustration: PAUL REVERE HOUSE, BOSTON + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See Page 23] + +II + +PAUL REVERE'S HOUSE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS + +WHERE THE MERCURY OF THE REVOLUTION LIVED AND TOILED + + "_Take three fourths of a Paine that makes Traitors Confess_ (RAC) + _With three parts of a place which the Wicked don't Bless_ (HEL) + _Joyne four sevenths of an Exercise which shop-keepers use_ (WALK) + _Add what Bad Men do, when they good actions refuse_ (ER) + _These four added together with great care and Art + Will point out the Fair One that is nearest my Heart._" + +Thus wrote Paul Revere, the Boston goldsmith, on the back of a bill to +Mr. Benjamin Greene for "Gold buttons," "Mending a Spoon," and "Two +pr. of Silver Shoe Buckles," which was made out one day in 1773 in the +old house in North Square, built in 1676. To this house he planned to +lead as his second wife Rachel Walker; his eight children needed a +mother's care, and he wanted some one to share the joys and the +burdens of his life. + +Before his first marriage, in 1757, he had served as a second +lieutenant in a company of artillery, in the expedition against Crown +Point. Soldiering was succeeded by work at his trade of goldsmith and +silversmith, learned from his father. He was a skilled engraver; most +of the silverware made in Boston at this period testified to his +ability. Later, when the rising patriotic tide seemed to call for +lithographs and broadsides, he engraved these on copper with eager +brain and active hand. + +He began his patriotic work as a member of the secret order The Sons +of Liberty, which had organizations in nearly all the colonies, held +frequent meetings, and laid plans for resisting the encroachments of +Great Britain. Once, when some three hundred of these Sons dined at +Dorchester, Paul Revere was present, as well as Samuel Adams, John +Adams, and John Hancock. + +It was necessary to have a trusted messenger to carry tidings of +moment from place to place, and Paul Revere was one of those chosen +for the purpose. His first important ride was at the time of the +destruction of the tea in Boston harbor. He had a leading part in +bringing together the patriots who gathered on November 29, 1773, +first at Faneuil Hall, then at Old South Meeting House, to protest +against the landing of the tea from the ship _Dartmouth_, and he was +one of the men who, on December 16, in Indian disguise, threw L18,000 +worth of tea into the harbor. In preparation for the rallying of the +men of the tea party at the "Green Dragon," the following ditty was +composed: + + "Rally Mohawks! bring out your axes, + And tell King George we'll pay no taxes + On his foreign tea. + His threats are vain, and vain to think + To force our girls and wives to drink + His vile Bohea! + Then rally boys, and hasten on + To meet our chief at the Green Dragon. + + "Old Warren's there, and bold Revere, + With hands to do, and words to cheer, + For liberty and laws; + Our country's brave and free defenders + Shall ne'er be left by true North-Enders + Fighting Freedoms cause! + Then rally boys, and hasten on + To meet our chiefs at the Green Dragon." + +Of the work done by the Mohawks on that December night John Adams +wrote on December 17, 1773, "This Destruction of the Tea is so bold, +so daring, so firm, intrepid, and inflexible, and it must have so +important Consequences, and so lasting, that I can't but consider it +as an Epoch in History." + +The enactment of the Boston Port Bill was the cause of Revere's next +ride. A meeting of citizens in Boston decided to ask the other +colonies "to come into a joint resolution to stop all importation +from, and exportation to, Great Britain and every part of the West +Indies till the act be repealed," in the thought that this would +"prove the salvation of North America and her liberties." + +These resolutions were given to Paul Revere by the selectmen of +Boston, and he was urged to ride with all speed to New York and +Philadelphia. On May 30, 1774, the Essex _Gazette_ told of the return +of the messenger, and announced, "Nothing can exceed the indignation +with which our brethren of Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and +Philadelphia have received this proof of Ministerial madness. They +universally declare their resolution to stand by us to the last +extremity." + +Four months later another ride to Philadelphia was taken, to carry to +the Continental Congress the Suffolk Resolves. Six days only were +taken for the journey. When Congress learned of the protest in New +England against the principle "that Parliament had the right to +legislate for the colonies in all cases whatsoever," there was no +question that a new nation was ready for birth. "I think I may assure +you, that America will make a point of supporting Boston to the +utmost," Samuel Adams wrote, the day after Revere's message was read. + +Once more during the historic year 1774 the Boston silversmith turned +aside from his shop long enough to ride to Portsmouth, New Hampshire, +to give information of the prohibition by Great Britain of further +importations of gunpowder, and to tell of the coming of a large +garrison to Fort William and Mary at Portsmouth. The immediate result +of the ride was the sending of a party of four hundred patriots +against the fort, which surrendered at once. Little attention has been +paid to this event by historians, yet it was one of the most potent of +the events preceding the Revolution. One hundred barrels of gunpowder +were seized at the fort, and this was a large part of the ammunition +used later at Bunker Hill. + +Then came April 18, 1775, the date of "that memorable ride, not only +the most brilliant, but the most important single exploit in our +national annals." The Provincial Congress and the Committee of Safety +were in session at Concord. General Warren had remained in Boston to +watch the movements of the British, and Revere had been holding +himself in readiness to carry tidings as soon as there was anything of +importance to be told. Now word was to be sent to John Hancock and +Samuel Adams, who were at the residence of Rev. Mr. Clarke at +Lexington, "that a number of soldiers were marching towards the bottom +of the Common, ... and that it was thought they were the objects of +the movement." Revere had foreseen the necessity for the ride, and, +fearing that he might not be able to cross the Charles River, or get +over Boston Neck, had arranged with patriots in Charleston that two +"lanthorns" would be shown in the North Church steeple if the British +went out by water, and one if they went by land. + +On the night of April 18 Revere was rowed by two friends across +Charles River, passing almost under the guns of the _Somerset_. After +conferring with the Charleston patriots, who had seen the signals, he +secured a horse, and started toward Lexington, proceeding with extreme +care, because he had been told that ten mounted British officers had +been seen going up the road. Once he was chased by two British +officers. At Medford he awakened the captain of the minute men. "After +that I alarmed almost every house till I got to Lexington," the +patriot rider later told the story. Messrs. Hancock and Adams were +aroused. Then Revere went on to Concord, accompanied by two others, +that the stores might be secured. Once more residents by the roadside +were awakened. He himself was soon surrounded by four mounted British +soldiers, but his companions were able to proceed. After a time he was +released by his captors, and he made his way to the Clarke house, +where Hancock and Adams still were. + + [Illustration: HANCOCK-CLARKE HOUSE, LEXINGTON, MASS. + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See Page 23] + +Thus the way was prepared for Concord and Lexington. That the patriots +were not taken by surprise, and the stores at Concord taken, as the +British had hoped, was due to the courage and resourcefulness of Paul +Revere. + +Revere's rides as messenger did not end his services to the colonists. +In 1775 he engraved the plates and printed the bills of the paper +money of Massachusetts, and later he built and operated a powder +mill. He was made lieutenant-colonel of State artillery, and took part +in the unfortunate Penobscot expedition out of which grew the charges +of which he was triumphantly acquitted by the court-martial held at +his own request. + +The old house in North Square was the home of the Revere family until +about 1795. + + +III + +FANEUIL HALL, BOSTON + +"THE CRADLE OF AMERICAN LIBERTY" + +Andrew Faneuil was one of the Huguenots who fled from France as a +result of the Edict of Nantes. By way of Holland he came to Boston. It +is a matter of official record that on February 1, 1691, he was +admitted by the Governor and Council of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. + +Within a few years the refugee was looked upon as a leader both in the +French church and in business. Copies of invoices of merchandise +consigned to him show that he was a dealer in all kinds of supplies of +food, household furnishings, and dress goods. + +When he died, in 1738, the Boston _News Letter_ said that "1,100 +persons of all Ranks, beside the Mourners," followed the body to the +grave. "And 'tis supposed that as the Gentleman's fortune was the +greatest of any among us, so his funeral was the most generous and +expensive of any that has been known here." + +Peter Faneuil, the heir and successor to the fortune and business of +his uncle, was a shrewd business man who knew how to make the most of +his opportunities. But he took time to think and plan for his +fellow-townsmen. He was disturbed because there was no adequate public +market in Boston, and he was not discouraged by the fact that numerous +attempts to establish such a convenience had been received with +hostility by the people, especially the farmers, who felt that they +would have a better chance to sell from house to house on any day than +in a fixed place on a set day. + +His proposition to provide the market by gift to the town stirred up a +spirited controversy. At a town meeting called to consider the +proposition, held on July 14, 1740, the attendance was so large that +the company adjourned to the Brattle Street Meeting House. + +There the people set themselves to consider the proposition of Peter +Faneuil, who "hath been generously pleased to offer at his own cost +and charge to erect and build a noble and complete structure or +edifice to be improved for a market, for the sole use, benefit and +advantage of the town, provided that the town of Boston would pass a +vote for the purpose, and lay the same under such proper regulation as +shall be thought necessary, and constantly support it for the said +use." + +The gift had a narrow escape from the 727 voters who cast the ballots. +The majority in favor of accepting the market was only seven! + +The average giver would have been discouraged by such a reception; but +Peter Faneuil, on the contrary, did more than he had proposed. When +the selectmen were told in August, 1742--seven months before Faneuil's +death--that the building was ready, there was not only a market +house, but above it a hall for town meetings and other gatherings. By +action of the meeting called to accept the building the hall over the +market was named Faneuil Hall. + +"I hope that what I have done will be of service to the whole +country," was the donor's response to this graceful act. + +At once the Hall became a Boston institution. The town offices were +removed to the building, town meetings were held there, and a series +of public concerts was given in it. The market, however, was not +popular. + +The fire of January 13, 1761, destroyed the interior of the building. +The money for rebuilding was raised by a lottery. + +Faneuil Hall began its career as a national institution on August 27, +1765, when the voters, in mass meeting, denounced the lawless acts of +"Persons unknown" by which they had shown their hatred of the +iniquitous Stamp Act. At a second meeting, held on September 12, the +voters instructed their Representatives "as to their conduct at this +very alarming crisis." + +"The genuine Sons of Liberty" gathered in the Hall March 18, 1767, +that they might rejoice together because of the repeal of the Stamp +Act. The Boston _Gazette_ reported that "a large company of the +principal inhabitants crowded that spacious apartment, and with loud +huzzas, and repeated acclamations at each of the twenty-five toasts, +saluted the glorious and memorable heroes of America, particularly +those who distinguished themselves in the cause of Liberty, which was +ever growing under the iron hand of oppression." + +What has been called "perhaps the most dramatic scene in all history" +was staged in this Cradle of Liberty on the day after the Boston +Massacre, March 6, 1770. The crowd was so large that it was necessary +to adjourn to Old South before action could be taken requesting the +governor to withdraw the troops whose presence had led to the +massacre. + +Then came the tea meetings. The first of these was held in the Hall on +November 5, 1773. At this meeting committees were appointed to wait on +the several persons to whom tea had been consigned by the East India +Company, "and in the name of the town to request them from a regard to +their character, and to the peace and good order of the town, +immediately to resign their trust." The response made to these +committees and to subsequent tea meetings was unsatisfactory, and on +December 16 a number of disguised citizens gathered at the waterfront +and held the "Boston Tea Party." + +The occupation of Boston by the British interrupted the Faneuil Hall +town meetings, but soon after the evacuation of the city the people +turned their steps thither for public gatherings of many sorts. +Fortunately the building had not been seriously injured. When +Washington entered the city he spoke with feeling of the safety of the +structure that had meant so much to the people. + +It was fitting that, in the stirring days that preceded the War of +1812, meetings to protest against the acts of Great Britain should be +held here. Historic gatherings followed during this war, as also +during the War of 1861-65. + +Three times Faneuil Hall has been rebuilt since its donor turned it +over to his fellow-citizens. The first reconstruction came after the +fire. In 1806 the building was enlarged and improved. Again in 1898 it +was completely rebuilt and made fireproof, though, wherever possible, +original materials were used. While it is much larger than in the +early days, the general appearance is so similar that the structure +would be recognized by such an ardent lover of the early structure as +Lafayette, who, when he was in Boston in 1824, said: + + "May Faneuil Hall ever stand, a monument to teach the world + that resistance to oppression is a duty, and will under true + republican institutions become a blessing." + + + [Illustration: OLD NORTH CHURCH, BOSTON + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See page 32] + +IV + +THREE HISTORIC CHURCHES OF BOSTON + +THE STORY OF OLD NORTH, OLD SOUTH, AND KING'S CHAPEL + +The First Church of Boston would have been large enough for all its +members for many years longer than they worshipped together, if they +had been of one mind politically. But the differences that separated +people in England in the troublous days of Charles I were repeated in +Boston. For this reason some of the members of the First Church +thought they would be better off by themselves, and in 1650 they +organized the Second Church. Later the church became known as North +Church, by reason of its location. As it grew older the name Old North +was applied to it. + +From its organization Old North became known as the church of spirited +reformers, a real school for patriots. Increase Mather, one of its +early pastors, was responsible for developing and directing the +peculiar genius of its organization. At the time of the Revolution +the British officers spoke of the church as "a nest of traitors." + +Many mass meetings to protest against the acts of Great Britain were +held in this church. The corporation used it for a time as a fire +house and a public arsenal, and when signals were given by the +direction of Paul Revere on the night of his famous ride the lanterns +were hung in the steeple of Old North. + +The original building of 1652 was burned in 1673. The second building +was also burned, but by the British, who tore it down and used it for +firewood during the cold winter of the occupation of the city. + +After the destruction of the building the members of New Brick Church, +an offshoot of Old North, invited the congregation to worship with +them. The invitation was accepted, and soon the congregations came +together, under the name Old North. The building occupied ever since +by the reunited congregation was erected in 1723. Ralph Waldo Emerson +served as pastor and conducted services in this structure. + +In 1669 there were many earnest people who felt that the teachings of +the older church were not liberal enough for them, and they decided to +have a church after their own heart. They felt that all who had been +baptized might be citizens of the town; they were unwilling to be +associated longer with those who insisted, as the General Synod of +Massachusetts recommended, that all citizens must be church members, +as formerly. So permission to organize was asked of the other +churches. On their refusal appeal was taken to the Governor. The next +appeal, to the selectmen of Boston, was successful. + + [Illustration: OLD SOUTH CHURCH, BOSTON + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See page 34] + +The new church, which was called the South Meeting House, was built on +the site of Governor Winthrop's house. In 1717 the people began to +call the church "The Old South," to distinguish it from another church +which was still further south. + +In 1685 Governor Andros insisted that the Old South building should +be used for the Church of England service, as well as for the +services of the owners of the building. For two years Churchmen and +Congregationalists occupied it harmoniously at different hours on +Sunday. + +On a Fast Day in 1696 Judge Sewall stood up before the congregation +while they heard him read his prayer for the forgiveness of God and +his fellow-citizens for any possible guilt he had incurred in the +witchcraft trials. + +Ten years later, on the day he was born, January 17, 1706, Benjamin +Franklin was baptized in the church, though not in the present +building. + +The building made famous by the series of town meetings before and +during the Revolution was erected in 1730. When Faneuil Hall was too +small to hold the crowds that clamored for entrance, Old South was +pressed into use. On June 14, 1768, at one of these meetings, a +petition was sent to the Governor asking that the British frigate be +removed from the harbor. John Hancock was chairman of this committee. +The Boston Tea Party followed a mass meeting held here. + +Burgoyne's cavalry used Old South Church as a riding school. Pigs were +kept in one of the pews, while many of the furnishings were burned. + +Since March, 1776, when the church was repaired, it has been little +changed. Services were discontinued in 1872. After the great fire +the building was used as a post-office. + +Five years later there was talk of destroying the historic structure +that the valuable lot might be used for business purposes, but the +efforts of patriotic women were successful in preserving the relic. +Since that time it has been kept open as a museum. + +While Old North and Old South were organizations expressing the will +of the people, the third of the famous churches of Boston was the +expression of the will of King James II of England. During more than +sixty years of the city's history there had been no congregation of +the Church of England; members of that body were required to attend +service in the existing parishes. A minister and a commission sent +from England to arrange for the new church were received with scant +courtesy by the churches when request was made that opportunity be +given to hold Church of England services in the building of one of +them. + +Not satisfied with the offer of a room in the Town House, Governor +Andros demanded that Old South make arrangements to accommodate the +new body. On the refusal of the trustees to do as the Governor wished, +the sexton of the church was one day ordered to ring the bell and open +the doors for the Governor and his staff, and those who might wish to +attend with them. Then the trustees submitted to the inevitable. + +This was in 1687. The first chapel was built for the new congregation +in 1689, on land appropriated for the purpose, since no one would +convey a site willingly. This building was enlarged in 1710. The +present striking structure dates from 1749-53. Peter Faneuil was +treasurer of the committee that raised the necessary funds. The +expense was but L2,500, though granite from the new Quincy quarry was +used. The colonnade surrounding the tower was not built until 1790. + +King's Chapel, as the new church building came to be called, was known +as the abode of loyalists, just as Old North and Old South were famous +as the haunts of patriotic worshippers. The presence on the walls of +the insignia of royalty and varied heraldic devices seriously +disturbed the minds of those who felt that a house of worship should +have no such furnishings. + +During the Revolution the building was respected by the British as +well as by the citizens of the town. When the war was over, the +congregation of Old South was invited to use the chapel because their +own church needed extensive repairs in consequence of the use the +British had made of it. + +Since 1787 King's Chapel has been a Unitarian church. The change was +made under the leadership of Rev. James Freeman. + + +V + +ELMWOOD, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS + +WHERE JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL WAS BORN, AND WHERE HE DIED + +When Thomas Oliver, Lieutenant Governor and president of George III's +provincial council, built his house in Cambridge about 1767, he did +not dream that within nine years he would have to abandon it because +of his allegiance to the same George III. But so it proved. He was a +Tory, and his neighbors would not suffer him to remain among them. On +September 2, 1774, he wrote his resignation of the offices he held, +adding the statement, "My house at Cambridge being surrounded by five +thousand people, in compliance with their command, I sign my name." At +his request, made to General Gage and the admiral of the English +fleet, troops were not sent to Cambridge, according to plan. "But for +Thomas Oliver's intercession," Edward Everett Hale says, "Elmwood +would have been the battle-ground of the First Encounters." + +After his summary departure the house was used as a hospital by the +Continental Army. When the government sold it at auction it became the +property first of Arthur Cabot, then of Elbridge Gerry, a Signer of +the Declaration of Independence, Governor of Massachusetts from 1810 +to 1812, and Vice-President under Madison. + +The next occupant was Rev. Charles Lowell, pastor of the West Church +of Boston. He bought the property just in time to make it ready for +his son, James Russell Lowell, who was born February 22, 1819. + +As a boy James never wearied of rambling over the old house and the +ten acres of ground, all that was left of the original ninety-five +acres. Many of his poems contain references to the memories of these +early years. "The First Snowfall," "Music," and "A Year's Life" are, +in part, autobiographical. Lines on "The Power of Music" told of the +days when he was his father's companion in the chaise, on the way to +make a Sunday exchange of pulpits with a neighboring minister: + + "When, with feuds like Ghibelline and Guelf, + Each parish did its music for itself, + A parson's son, through tree-arched country ways, + I rode exchange oft in dear old days, + Ere yet the boys forgot, with reverent eye, + To doff their hats as the black coat went by, + Ere skirts expanding in their apogee + Turned girls to bells without the second e; + Still in my teens, I felt the varied woes + Of volunteers, each singing as he chose, + Till much experience left me no desire + To learn new species of the village choir." + +Life at Elmwood was interrupted by college days, but he returned to +the Cambridge house with his wife, Maria Lowell. The oldest children +were born here. Here, too, came the first great sorrow of the parents, +the death of their first born. At that time Mrs. Lowell found comfort +in writing "The Alpine Sheep," a poem that has helped many parents in +a like time of bereavement. + +The next great sorrow came during the Civil War, when the death from +wounds was announced first of General Charles Russell Lowell, then of +James Jackson Lowell, and finally of William Lowell Putnam, all +beloved nephews. In the Biglow Papers, Second Series, the poet +referred to these three soldiers. Leslie Stephen called the lines "the +most pathetic that he ever wrote" in which he spoke of the three +likely lads, + + "Whose comin' step ther' 's ears thet won't, + No, not lifelong, leave off awaitin'." + +During the closing year of the war, one of the students who attended +his lectures on Dante at Harvard College wrote of a visit to his +preceptor: + + "I found the serene possessor of Elmwood in good spirits, + ate a Graham biscuit and drank some delicious milk with him + and his wife, then enjoyed a very pleasant conversation. He + read some of Shakspeare's sonnets, to make me think better of + them, and succeeded.... He gave me a very welcome copy of + Macaulay's essays and poems, and the little visit was another + oasis in school life's dearth of home sociability. Mabel, his + only child, was not there at supper, but came home some time + after: 'salute your progenitor!' and the answer was a + daughter's kiss." + +After spending years abroad, part of the time as Minister to Spain, +then as Minister to England, Lowell returned to Elmwood. To a friend +who congratulated him on being at home again, he said, "Yes, it is +very nice here; but the old house is full of ghosts." His cousin, as +quoted by Dr. Hale, says of these closing six years of the poet's +life: + + "The house was haunted by sad memories, but at least he was + once more among his books. The library, which filled the two + rooms on the ground floor to the left of the front door, had + been constantly growing, and during his stay in Europe he had + bought rare works with the intention of leaving them to + Harvard College. Here he would sit when sad or unwell and + read Calderon, the 'Nightingale in the Study,' whom he always + found a solace. Except for occasional attacks of the gout, + his life had been singularly free from sickness, but he had + been at home only a few months when he was taken ill, and, + after the struggle of a strong man to keep up as long as + possible, he was forced to go to bed. In a few days his + condition became so serious that the physician feared he + would not live; but he rallied, and, although too weak to go + to England, as he had planned, he appeared to be + comparatively well. When taken sick, he had been preparing a + new edition of his works, the only full collection that had + ever been made, and he had the satisfaction of publishing it + soon after his recovery. This was the last literary work he + was destined to do, and it rounded off fittingly his career + as a man of letters." + +He died in August, 1891, when he was seventy-two years old. + +Elmwood remains in the possession of the Lowell heirs. The ten acres +of the poet's boyhood days have been reduced to two or three, but the +house is much the same as when the poet lived in it. + + + [Illustration: CRAIGIE HOUSE, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace, Philadelphia_ + See page 40] + +VI + +THE CRAIGIE HOUSE, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS + +MADE FAMOUS BY GEORGE WASHINGTON AND HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW + + "_Somewhat back from the village street + Stands the old-fashioned country seat. + Across its antique portico + Tall poplar-trees their shadows throw; + And from its station in the hall + An ancient timepiece says to all,-- + 'Forever, never! + Never--forever.'_" + +The clock of which Longfellow wrote stood on the stair-landing of the +old Craigie House, Cambridge, Massachusetts, which he bought in 1843, +after having occupied it a number of years. Here he wrote the majority +of his poems. Here, one June day, Nathaniel Hawthorne dined with the +poet. In the course of conversation, the author of "The House of +Seven Gables" told Longfellow the heart-moving story of the Acadian +maiden who was separated from her lover by the cruel mandate of the +conquerors of Acadia, and here the poem was written that told the +story. Here were spent days of gladness with friends who delighted to +enter the hospitable door. Here the poet rejoiced in his home with the +children of whom he wrote in "The Children's Hour": + + "Between the dark and the daylight, + When the night is beginning to lower, + Comes a pause in the day's occupations, + That is known as the Children's Hour." + +And here, one sad day in July, 1861, Mrs. Longfellow was so severely +burned that she died the next day. This great sorrow bore rich fruit +for those who loved the poet. "Above the grave the strong man sowed +his thoughts, and they ripened like the corn in autumn," one of his +biographers has said. + +The house was named for Andrew Craigie, who became the owner of the +property in 1793. He had given valuable service during the +Revolutionary War, acting as an "apothecary-general" in the +Continental Army. He was a man of wealth, and his home was the popular +resort for people of note from all parts of the country. During his +later years he lost all his money, and his widow was compelled to rent +rooms to Harvard students. In this way Edward Everett became a +resident of the house. + +The builder of the mansion was John Vassall. In 1760, when he occupied +the house, it was surrounded by a park of one hundred and fifty acres. +Soon after the beginning of the war he went to Boston, and later he +removed to England, for his sympathies were with the Crown. +Accordingly, in 1778, the property was declared forfeited to the +State. + +But the estate really became public property three years before this, +when a regiment, under the command of Colonel Glover, pitched its +tents in the park. In July, 1775, Washington made the house his +headquarters, remaining until April 4, 1776. + +During these months the house was a busy place. Officers gathered here +both for business and for pleasure. Military conferences and +court-martials were held in the large room in the second story which +was later used by Longfellow as a study. Dinners and entertainments +were frequent; these provided a needed safety valve during the weeks +of anxious waiting near the British line. Mrs. Washington was a +visitor here, thus giving to her husband the taste of home life which +he was unwilling to take during the Revolution by making a visit to +his estate at Mt. Vernon. + +On one of the early days of the Commander-in-Chief's occupancy of the +house, he wrote this entry in his carefully-kept account book: + + "July 15, 1775, Paid for cleaning the House which was + provided for my Quarters, and which had been occupied by the + Marblehead regiment, L2 10s. 9d." + +The day before this entry was made General Green wrote to Samuel Ward: + + "His Excellency, General Washington, has arrived amongst us, + universally admired. Joy was visible in every countenance, + and it seemed as if the spirit of conquest breathed through + the whole army. I hope I shall be taught, to copy his + example, and to prefer the love of liberty, in this time of + public danger to all the soft pleasures of domestic life, and + support ourselves with manly fortitude amidst all the dangers + and hardships that attend a state of war. And I doubt not, + under the General's wise direction, we shall establish such + excellent order and strictness of discipline as to invite + victory to attend him wherever he goes." + +A council of war was held in the upstairs room on August 3, 1775. +After this council General Sullivan wrote to the New Hampshire +Committee of Safety: + + "To our great surprise, discovered that we had not powder + enough to furnish half a pound a man, exclusive of what the + people have in their homes and cartridge boxes. The General + was so struck that he did not utter a word for half an hour." + +Further hints of the serious straits caused by the lack of ammunition +were contained in a letter of Elias Boudinot. He said that at the time +there were fourteen miles of line to guard, so that Washington did not +dare fire an Evening or Morning Gun. "In this situation one of the +Committee of Safety for Massachusetts ... deserted and went over to +General Gage, and discovered our poverty to him. The fact was so +incredible, that General Gage treated it as a stratagem of war, and +the informant as a Spy, or coming with the express purpose of +deceiving him & drawing his Army into a Snare, by which means we were +saved from having our Quarters beaten up...." + +The strange inactivity of the British in the face of the +unpreparedness of the Continental troops was remarked in a letter +written to Congress on January 4, from Headquarters: + + "It is not in the pages of history, perhaps, to furnish a + case like ours. To maintain a post within musket shot of the + enemy, for six months together, without [powder], and at the + same time to disband one army, and recruit another, within + that distance of twenty odd British regiments, is more, + probably, than was ever attempted." + +To-day visitors are free to roam through the rooms that echoed to the +tread of Washington and his generals, in which the children played in +Longfellow's day, and where the poet wrote so many of his messages +that have gone straight to the hearts of millions. + + +VII + +THE ADAMS HOUSES, QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS + +WHERE TWO PRESIDENTS WERE BORN + +John Adams was born and spent his boyhood in a simple farmhouse near +Braintree (now Quincy), Massachusetts. It has been described as a +"plain, square, honest block of a house, widened by a lean-to, and +scarcely two stories high." This house, built in 1681, Daniel Munro +Wilson says was "the veritable roof-tree, under which was ushered into +being the earliest and strongest advocate of independence, the leader +whose clear intelligence was paramount in shaping our free +institutions, the founder of a line of statesmen, legislators, +diplomats, historians, whose patriotism is a passion, and whose +integrity is like the granite of their native hills." + +It is a remarkable fact that John Adams and John Hancock, who stood +shoulder to shoulder in the fight for American independence, were born +within a mile of each other, on days only a little more than a year +apart. The baptismal records show that October 19, 1735, was the +birthday of John Adams, while John Hancock was born on January 12, +1737. + +From the modest home in Braintree John Adams went to college. Later he +taught school and studied law. Soon after he returned home in 1758 he +wrote in his diary: + + "Rose at sunrise, unpitched a load of hay, and translated two + more leaves of Justinian." + +After the death of his father, in 1761, the burden of the home fell on +his shoulders, and in the same year he was called to serve the +country. His diary tells of the call: + + "In March, when I had no suspicion, I heard my name + pronounced (at town meeting) in a nomination of surveyor of + highways. I was very wroth, because I knew better, but said + nothing. My friend, Dr. Savil, came to me and told me that he + had nominated me to prevent me from being nominated as a + constable. 'For,' said the doctor, 'they make it a rule to + compel every man to serve either as constable or surveyor, or + to pay a fine.' Accordingly, I went to ploughing and + ditching." + +Thus John Adams showed the spirit of service that later animated his +son, John Quincy Adams, who, after he had been President, became a +representative in Congress, and made answer to those who thought such +an office beneath his dignity, "An ex-President would not be degraded +by serving as a selectman in his town if elected thereto by the +people." + +During those early years the young lawyer had other occupations than +ditch-digging. The records of the family show that he was assiduously +courting Abigail Smith, daughter of Rev. William Smith, minister in +Weymouth, near by. Probably he first met her in the historic house, +for she was a frequent visitor there. + +The marriage of the young people on October 25, 1764, excited much +comment. In Puritan New England the profession of the law was not a +popular calling, and many of the people thought Abigail Smith was +"throwing herself away." Parson Smith was equal to the occasion; as he +had helped his eldest daughter out of a similar difficulty by +preaching on the text, "And Mary hath chosen that good part, which +shall not be taken away from her," so, on the Sunday after Abigail's +marriage, he announced the text, "For John ... came neither eating +bread nor drinking wine; and ye say, He hath a devil." + +The year of the marriage witnessed the beginning of John Adams' fight +for independence. For it was the year of the iniquitous Stamp Act. In +his diary he wrote: + + "I drew up a petition to the selectmen of Braintree, and + procured it to be signed by a number of the respectable + inhabitants, to call a meeting of the town to instruct their + representatives in relation to the stamps." + +The following year, when a meeting was held in Braintree to take +action in consequence of the failure of Great Britain to heed the +protest against the Stamp Act, he wrote: + + "I prepared a draught of instruction at home, and carried + them with me. The cause of the meeting was explained at some + length, and the state and danger of the country pointed out. + A committee was appointed to prepare instructions, of which I + was nominated as one. My draught was unanimously adopted + without amendment, reported to the town, and accepted without + a dissenting voice.... They rang through the state and were + adopted in so many words ... by forty towns, as instructions + to their representatives." + +Less than two years later, on July 11, 1767, in the town close by his +own birthplace, to which John Adams had taken his bride, John Quincy +Adams was born. The delights of the new home have been pictured in a +pleasing manner by Daniel Munro Wilson: + + "Elevated was life in this 'little hut,' but it was real, + genuine, beautifully domestic. The scene of it, visible there + now to any pious pilgrim, and reverently preserved in many of + its antique appointments by the Quincy Historical Society, + assists the imagination to realize its noble simplicity. The + dining-room or general living room, with its wide open + fireplace, is where the young couple would most often pass + their evenings, and in winter would very likely occupy in + measureless content a single settle, roasting on one side and + freezing on the other. The kitchen, full of cheerful bustle, + and fragrant as the spice isles, how it would draw the + children as they grew up, the little John Quincy among them! + Here they could be near mother, and watch her with absorbing + attention as she superintended the cooking, now hanging pots + of savory meats on the crane, and now drawing from the + cavernous depths of the brick oven the pies and baked beans + and Indian puddings and other delicacies of those days. We + can more easily imagine the home scene when we read these + words written by Mrs. Adams to her husband: 'Our son is much + better than when you left home, and our daughter rocks him to + sleep with the song of "Come papa, come home to brother + Johnnie."' 'Johnnie' is the dignified President and 'old man + eloquent' that is to be." + +When it became evident that there must be Revolution, the patriot +Adams was compelled to leave his family and go into the thick of the +fight. He did not want to go. "I should have thought myself the +happiest man in the world if I could have returned to my little hut +and forty acres, which my father left me in Braintree, and lived on +potatoes and sea-weed the rest of my life. But I had taken a part, I +had adopted a system, I had encouraged my fellow citizens, and I could +not abandon them in conscience and in honor." + +From the old home Abigail Adams wrote him letters that moved him to +renewed efforts for his struggling countrymen. In one of them she +said, "You cannot be, I know, nor do I wish to see you, an inactive +spectator; but if the sword be drawn, I bid adieu to all domestic +felicity, and look forward to that country where there are neither +wars nor rumors of war, in a firm belief, that through the mercy of +its King we shall both rejoice there together." + +The wife rejoiced when her husband's ringing words helped to carry the +Declaration of Independence; she urged him to make the trips to France +which Congress asked him to undertake; she encouraged him when he was +Vice-President and, later, President, and she made home more than ever +an abode of peace when, in 1801, he returned to Braintree, to a house +of Leonard Vassall, built in 1731, which he bought in 1785. + +In this house husband and wife celebrated their golden wedding, as +John Quincy Adams was to celebrate his golden wedding many years +later. Here, for many years, the son enjoyed being with the mother of +whom he once wrote: + + "My mother was an angel upon earth. She was a minister of + blessings to all human beings within her sphere of action.... + She has been to me more than a mother. She has been a spirit + from above watching over me for good, and contributing by my + mere consciousness of her existence to the comfort of my + life.... There is not a virtue that can abide in the female + heart but it was the ornament of hers." + +And in this house the mother died, on October 28, 1818. John Quincy +Adams lived there until his death, on July 4, 1826. + + +VIII + +THE QUINCY MANSION, QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS + +THE HOME OF THREE DOROTHY QUINCYS + +Among the settlers to whom Boston granted large allotments of outlying +lands were William Coddington and Edmund Quincy. In 1635 they went, in +company with their associate settlers, to "the mount," which became +Braintree, now Quincy. + +By the side of a pleasant brook, under the shade of spreading trees, +Coddington built in 1636 his house of four rooms. Downstairs was the +kitchen and the living room, while upstairs were two bedrooms. The +upper story overhung the lower in the old manner, and a generous +chimney, which afforded room for a large open fireplace, dominated the +whole. + +This house became the meeting place for a group of seekers after +religious liberty who were looked upon with suspicion in Boston--Rev. +John Wheelwright, Sir Harry Vane, Atherton Hough, Ann Hutchinson, and +others. In consequence of their views the company was soon broken up. +Ann Hutchinson and Wheelwright were banished, while Coddington would +have been banished if he had not gone hastily to Rhode Island. + +Edmund Quincy, who succeeded to Coddington's house, probably would +have been banished if he had not died before the decree could be +pronounced. For a season his widow, Judith, lived in the house, which, +from that time, became known as the Quincy Mansion. With her were the +children, Edmund and Judith. Judith, who married at twenty, and became +the mother of Hannah (Betsy) Hull, whose dowry, when she became the +bride of Judge Samuel Sewell, was her weight in pine-tree shillings, +the gift of her father, the master of the colony's mint. Florence +Royce Davis has written of the wedding: + + "Then the great scales were brought, amid laughter and jest, + And Betsy was called to step in and be weighed; + But a silence fell over each wondering guest + When the mint-master opened a ponderous chest + And a fortune of shillings displayed. + + "By handfuls the silver was poured in one side + Till it weighed from the floor blushing Betsy, the bride; + And the mint-master called: 'Prithee, Sewell, my son, + The horses are saddled, the wedding is done; + Behold the bride's portion; and know all your days + Your wife is well worth every shilling she weighs.'" + +Edmund Quincy married at twenty-one, and became the next occupant of +the mansion. During his long life there were welcomed to the +hospitable roof many of those whose words and deeds prepared the way +for the liberty that was to come to the country within a century. + +The second of the Quincy line was a leader in the town. At one time he +was its representative in the General Court, and as colonel of the +Suffolk Regiment, he was the first of a long list of colonels in the +family. But the day came when it was written of him, "Unkel Quincy +grows exceeding crazy," and in 1698 the second Edmund yielded the +house to Edmund the third. + +This Edmund also became a colonel and a representative and, later, a +judge of the Supreme Court. His pastor said of him, "This great man +was of a manly Stature and Aspect, of a Strong Constitution and of +Good Courage, fitted for any Business of Life, to serve God, his King +and Country." Not only did he enlarge the glory of the family, but, in +1706, he enlarged the house, yet in such a way that the original +Coddington house could be clearly traced after the improvements were +finished. Judge Sewell, the cousin of the builder, was one of the +welcome occupants of the improved house. On his way to Plymouth he +stopped at "Braintry." "I turned in to Cousin Quinsey," he said, +"where I had the pleasure to see God in his Providence shining again +upon the Persons and Affairs of the Family after long distressing +Sickness and Losses. Lodged in the chamber next the Brooke." Later on +another chamber near the brook was provided for Mrs. Quincy's brother, +Tutor Flynt of Harvard, when he came that way for rest and change. + +The oldest child of this generation was Edmund, whose daughter, +Dorothy Quincy, married John Hancock, while the fourth child was +Dorothy Quincy, the great-grandmother of Oliver Wendell Holmes. + +The continuity of life at the mansion was sadly broken when, within a +year, the grandmother, the mother, and the father died. The death of +the latter occurred in England, where he had gone on business for the +colony. When news came of the ending of his life, the General Court of +Massachusetts declared that "he departed the delight of his own +people, but of none more than the Senate, who, as a testimony of their +love and gratitude, have ordered this epitaph to be inscribed on his +tomb in Bunhill Fields, London." + +For a year Dorothy Quincy remained in the house; but on her marriage +the place ceased for a time to be the chief residence of a Quincy. +Edmund was in business in Boston. He resorted to the house for a +season now and then, but his Boston home remained his permanent +abiding place until after the birth of his daughter Dorothy. Then +failing fortune sent him back to the ancestral home. + +During the next few years John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, and John +Hancock were favored visitors at the mansion. John Hancock won Dorothy +Quincy for his bride, and family tradition says that preparations were +made for the wedding in the old home. "The large north parlor was +adorned with a new wall paper, express from Paris, and appropriately +figured with the forms of Venus and Cupid in blue, and pendant wreaths +of flowers in red," writes the author of "Where American Independence +Began." But the approaching Revolution interfered. The bridegroom +hurried away to Boston and then to Lexington. Dorothy, under the care +of Mrs. Hancock, the mother of John Hancock, also went to Lexington on +April 18, 1775, the very day when Paul Revere aroused the patriots, +and Hancock was once more compelled to flee for his life. Four months +later, at Fairfield, Connecticut, the lovers were married. + +The old mansion was never again the home of the Quincys. Josiah, +brother of Edmund the fourth, built for himself in 1770 a beautiful +home not far from the family headquarters. Here he lived through the +war. Visitors to the house are shown on one of the windows the record +he made of the departure of the British from Boston Harbor, scratched +there when he saw the welcome sight, on October 17, 1775. + +For much more than a century the house was in the hands of other +families, but, fortunately, it has come under the control of the +Colonial Dames of Massachusetts. They have made it the historic +monument it deserves to be. The visitors who are privileged to wander +through the rooms hallowed by the presence of men and women who helped +to pave the way for American independence read with hearty +appreciation the lines which Holmes addressed to the portrait of his +ancestress, "My Dorothy Q," as he called her: + + "Grandmother's mother: her age, I guess + Thirteen summers, or something less; + Girlish bust, but womanly air; + Smooth, square forehead, with uprolled hair; + Lips that lover has never kissed, + Taper fingers and slender wrist; + Hanging sleeves of stiff brocade; + So they painted the little maid." + + + [Illustration: FERNSIDE FARM, HAVERHILL, MASS. + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See page 54] + +IX + +FERNSIDE FARM, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS + +THE BIRTHPLACE AND BOYHOOD HOME OF JOHN G. WHITTIER + +The first house built by Thomas Whittier, the three-hundred-pound +ancestor of the poet Whittier, and first representative of the family +in America, was a little log cabin. There he took his wife, Ruth +Flint, and there ten children were born. Five of them were boys, and +each of them was more than six feet tall. + +No wonder the log house grew too small for the family. So, probably in +1688, he built a house whose massive hewn beams were fifteen inches +square, whose kitchen was thirty feet long, with a fireplace eight +feet wide. The rooms clustered about a central chimney. + +In this house the poet was born December 17, 1807, and here he spent +the formative years of his life. When he was twenty-seven years old he +wrote for _The Little Pilgrim_ of Philadelphia a paper on "The Fish I +Didn't Catch." In this he described the home of his boyhood: + + "Our old homestead nestled under a long range of hills which + stretched off to the west. It was surrounded by woods in all + directions save to the southeast, where a break in the leafy + wall revealed a vista of low, green meadows, picturesque with + wooded islands and jutting capes of upland. Through these, a + small brook, noisy enough as it foamed, rippled and laughed + down its rocky falls by our garden-side, wound, silently and + scarcely visible, to a still larger stream, known as the + Country Brook. This brook in its time, after doing duty at + two or three saw and grist mills, the clack of which we + could hear across the intervening woodlands, found its way to + the great river, and the river took it up and bore it down to + the great sea." + +Whittier's poems are full of references to the life on the farm; many +of his best verses had their inspiration in memories of the past. For +instance, the description of the building of the fire in "Snow-Bound," +a poem which describes the life at the farm when he was twelve years +old, is a faithful picture of what took place in the old kitchen every +night of the long New England winter, when + + "We piled, with care, our nightly stack + Of wood against the chimney back-- + The oaken log, green, huge and thick, + And on its top the thick back-stick; + The knotty fore-stick laid apart, + And filled between with curious art. + The ragged brush; then, hovering near, + We watched the first red blaze appear, + Heard the sharp crackle, caught the gleam + On whitewashed wall and sagging beam, + Until the old, rude-fashioned room + Burst, flower-like, into rosy bloom." + +Young Whittier was a faithful worker on the farm. One day, when he was +nineteen years old, William Lloyd Garrison, the young editor of a +Newburyport newspaper, to which Whittier had contributed a poem, found +him assisting in repairing a stone wall. The visitor urged the father +of the young poet to send him to school. As a result of this visit +Whittier entered the Academy in Haverhill, with the understanding that +he was to earn his way. + +At intervals during the succeeding ten years the poet returned to the +old farm, but when he was thirty years old the place was sold, the +family went to Amesbury, and he left soon afterward for Philadelphia, +where he was to edit an anti-slavery paper. + +All through life Whittier dreamed of buying back the homestead. When +he received a check for $1,000 as the first proceeds from +"Snow-Bound," he set the sum aside as the beginning of a redemption +fund. + +But the citizens of Haverhill, led by Alfred A. Ordway, asked the +privilege of buying the property themselves, and making it a memorial +to the poet. Whittier died before the purchase was completed, but soon +afterward Fernside Farm, as the poet called it, was taken over by Mr. +Ordway. It is now in the hands of an association that has restored it +and keeps it open to visitors whose hearts have been stirred by the +work of the Quaker poet. + + + [Illustration: DUSTON GARRISON HOUSE, HAVERHILL, MASS. + _Photo by W. R. Merryman, Haverhill_ + See page 57] + +X + +THE DUSTON GARRISON HOUSE, HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS + +FROM WHICH HANNAH DUSTON WAS CARRIED AWAY BY THE INDIANS + +The attention of visitors to Haverhill, Massachusetts, is attracted to +a great granite boulder set in a place of honor in the old town. When +they ask about it they are told the story of Hannah Duston, heroine. + +Thomas and Hannah Duston were married in 1677, and at once built a +humble house of imported brick on the spot where the boulder now +stands. Frequently one of the bricks is uncovered on the site; those +who examine it marvel at the thought of the building material brought +across the sea. + +Later Thomas Duston uncovered deposits of clay near his home which led +him to make experiments in brick making. He was so successful that his +product was in demand; villagers said that the Haverhill bricks were +fully as good as those brought from England. + +Strong building material was needed, for hostile Indians were all +about. In order to afford protection against them, Mr. Duston +determined to build a new house, which should serve as a garrison in +time of danger. By the village authorities he was appointed keeper of +the garrison, as this commission shows: + + "To Thomas Duston, upon the settlement of garrisons. You + being appointed master of the garrison at your house, you are + hereby in his Maj's name, required to see that a good watch + is kept at your garrison both by night and by day by those + persons hereafter named who are to be under your command and + inspection in building or repairing your garrison, and if any + person refuse or neglect their duty, you are accordingly + required to make return of the same, under your hand to the + Committee of militia in Haverhill." + +The new house was well under way when this command was given. As it is +still standing, it is possible to tell of its construction. A +Haverhill writer says that "white oak, which is to-day well preserved, +was used in its massive framework, and the floor and roof timbers are +put together with great wooden pins. In early days the windows swung +outward, and the glass was very thick, and set into the frames with +lead." + +On March 15, 1697, the watching Indians decided that their opportunity +had come to attack the village. They knew that if they waited for the +completion of the new garrison, there would be little chance of +success. So they struck at once. + +The story of what followed was told by Cotton Mather, in his "Magnalia +Christi Americana," published in London in 1702: + + "On March 15, 1697, the Salvages made a Descent upon the + Skirts of Haverhil, Murdering and Captiving about Thirty-nine + Persons, and Burning about half a Dozen Houses. In the Broil, + one Hannah Dustan having lain-in about a Week, attended with + her Nurse, Mary Neffe a Widow, a Body of terrible Indians + drew near unto the House where she lay, with Design to carry + on their Bloody Devastations. Her Husband hastened from his + Employment abroad unto the relief of his Distressed Family; + and first bidding Seven of his Eight Children (which were + from Two to Seventeen Years of Age) to get away as fast as + they could into some Garrison in the Town, he went in to + inform his Wife of the horrible Distress come upon them. E'er + he could get up, the fierce Indians were got so near, that + utterly despairing to do her any Service, he ran out after + his Children.... He overtook his children about Forty Rod + from his Door, ... a party of Indians came up with him; and + now though they Fired at him, and he Fired at them, yet he + Manfully kept at the Reer of his Little Army of Unarmed + Children, while they Marched off with the Pace of a Child of + Five Years Old; until, by the Singular Providence of God, he + arrived safe with them all unto a Place of Safety about a + Mile or two from his House.... + + "The Nurse, trying to escape with the New-born Infant, fell + into the Hands of the Formidable Salvages; and those furious + Tawnies coming into the House, bid poor Dustan to rise + immediately.... + + "Dustan (with her Nurse) ... travelled that Night about a + Dozen Miles, and then kept up with their New Masters in a + long Travel of an Hundred and Fifty Miles.... + + "The poor Women had nothing but Fervent Prayers to make their + Lives Comfortable or Tolerable, and by being daily sent out + upon Business, they had Opportunities together and asunder to + do like another Hannah, in pouring out their Souls before the + Lord." + + The Indians were "now Travelling with these Two Captive + Women, (and an English Youth taken from Worcester a Year and + half before,) unto a Rendezvous of Salvages which they call a + Town somewhere beyond Penacook; and they still told, these + poor Women, that when they came to this Town they must be + Stript, and Scourg'd, and Run the Gantlet through the whole + Army of Indians. They said this was the Fashion when the + Captives first came to a Town;... + + "But on April 30, while they were yet, it may be, about an + Hundred and Fifty Miles from the Indian Town, a little before + break of Day, when the whole Crew was in a Dead Sleep ... one + of these Women took up a Resolution to imitate the Action of + Jael upon Sisera; and being where she had not her own Life + secured by any Law unto her, she thought she was not + forbidden by any Law to take away the Life of the + Murderers.... She heartened the Nurse and the Youth to assist + her in this Enterprize; and all furnishing themselves with + Hatchets for the purpose, they struck such home Blows upon + the Heads of their Sleeping Oppressors, that e'er they could + any of them struggle into any effectual resistance, at the + Feet of those poor Prisoners, they bow'd, they fell, they lay + down; at their Feet they bowed, they fell; where they bowed, + there they fell down Dead." + +One old squaw and a boy of eleven escaped to the forest. The scalps +were not taken at first, but soon Hannah Duston returned to the camp +and gathered the trophies, in order that she might claim the bounty +offered by the colony for the scalps of hostile Indians. Then all the +Indians' canoes were scuttled, their arms were taken, and the party of +three embarked. + +Day after day they paddled down the Merrimac, the three taking turns +in the unaccustomed labour. At night they paused to rest. Cautiously a +fire was kindled, and food was cooked. Always they feared discovery by +the bands of Indians. Two slept, while a third stood guard. But no +Indians appeared. + +At last the home village was in sight. The wondering villagers came +out to see who the visitors could be. Their astonishment and delight +can be imagined. + +The General Assembly of Massachusetts voted Mrs. Duston twenty-five +pounds' reward, while a similar amount was divided between Mrs. Neff +and the boy Samuel Lennardson. Later the governor of Maryland sent +Mrs. Duston a silver tankard. + +The Duston descendants, who hold a reunion every year, prize these +souvenirs. But most of all they prize a letter (the original of which +is in the possession of the Haverhill Historical Society) written by +Mrs. Duston in 1723, in which she gave a wonderful testimony to God's +goodness to her and hers. This is the message she gave to children and +grandchildren: + + "I Desire to be thankful that I was born in a Land of Light & + Baptized when I was young and had a good education by my + Father, tho' I took but little notice of it in the time of + it--I am Thankful for my Captivity, 'twas the Comfortablest + time that ever I had. In my Affliction God made his Word + Comfortable to me. I remember ye 43 ps. ult. [probably + meaning last part] and those words came to my mind--ps. + 118:17--I have had a great Desire to Come to the Ordinance of + the Lord's Supper a Great while, but fearing I should give + offense and fearing my own Unworthiness has kept me back. + Reading a Book concerning X's Sufferings Did much awaken me. + In the 55th of Isa. beg [beginning] We are invited to come: + Hearing Mr. Moody preach out of ye 3rd of Mal. 3 last verses + it put me upon Consideration. Ye 11th of Matt., ending, has + been encouraging to me--I have been resolving to offer my + Self from time to time ever since the Settlement of the + present Ministry. I was awakened by the first Sacraml Sermon + [Luke 14:17]. But Delays and fears prevailed upon me: But I + desire to Delay no longer, being Sensible it is my Duty--I + desire the Church to receive me tho' it be the Eleventh hour; + and pray for me that I may honer God and receive the + Salvation of My Soul. + + "Hannah Duston, wife of Thomas. Aetat 67." + +Mrs. Duston lived in the old house at Haverhill for many years after +her remarkable escape. + + +XI + +THE OLD MANSE AND THE WAYSIDE, CONCORD, MASSACHUSETTS + +TWO HOUSES MADE FAMOUS BY NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE + +Nathaniel Hawthorne was thirty-eight years old before he was able to +begin the ideal life of Adam with his Eve, to which he had looked +forward for many years. + +"I want a little piece of land that I can call my own, big enough to +stand upon, big enough to be buried in," he said to a friend when he +was thirty-four years old. Lack of money delayed the realization, but +it is a curious fact that the marriage to Sophia Peabody took place +just after he had made up his mind that the thousand dollars he had +invested in the Emerson Brook Farm experiment was gone forever. + +The marriage took place July 9, 1842, and housekeeping was at once +begun in the Old Manse at Concord, which was built in 1765 by +Emerson's grandfather. But he was merely a renter; his dream of +ownership was to be delayed ten years longer. The great rooms of the +curious gambrel-roofed house were rather bare, and there was a +scarcity of everything except love, yet the author and his bride found +nothing but joy in the retired garden and the dormer-windowed house. + +Hawthorne's own charming description of the house and grounds is so +attractive that the reader wishes to visit them: + + "Between two tall gateposts of rough-hewn stone (the gate + itself having fallen from its hinges at some unknown epoch), + we beheld the grey front of the old parsonage terminating the + vista of an avenue of black ash trees. It was now a + twelvemonth since the funeral procession of the venerable + clergyman, the last inhabitant, had turned from that gateway + toward the village burying ground.... + + "Nor, in truth, had the old manse ever been profaned by a lay + occupant until that memorable summer afternoon when I entered + it as my home. A priest had built it; a priest had succeeded + to it; other priestly owners from time to time had dwelt in + it; and children born in the chambers had grown up to assume + the priestly character. It was awful to recollect how many + sermons must have been written there. The latest inhabitant + there--he by whose translation to paradise the dwelling was + left vacant--had penned nearly three thousand discourses.... + How often, no doubt, had he paced along the avenue, attuning + his meditations to sighs and gentle murmurs, and deep and + solemn peals of the wind among the leafy tops of the + trees!... I took shame to myself for having been so long a + writer of idle stories, and ventured to hope that wisdom + would descend upon me with the falling leaves of the autumn, + and that I should light upon an intellectual treasure in the + Old Manse well worth those hoards of long-hidden gold which + people seek for in moss-grown houses." + +Two years after their marriage, Mrs. Hawthorne wrote to her mother: + + "I have no time, as you may imagine. I am baby's tire-woman, + hand-maiden, and tender, as well as nursing mother. My + husband relieves me with her constantly, and gets her to + sleep beautifully.... The other day, when my husband saw me + contemplating an appalling vacuum in his dressing-gown, he + said he was a man of the largest rents in the country, and it + was strange he had not more ready money.... But, somehow or + other, I do not care much, because we are so happy." + +Hawthorne did much of his work in the rear room where Emerson wrote. +In the introduction to "Mosses from an Old Manse" he said of this +apartment: + + "When I first saw the room, the walls were blackened with the + smoke of unnumbered years, and made still blacker by the grim + prints of Puritan ministers, that hung around.... The rain + pattered upon the roof and the sky gloomed through the dirty + garret windows while I burrowed among the venerable books in + search of any living thought." + +From his writing Hawthorne turned easily to wandering in the garden or +rowing on the river or helping his wife about the house. "We had a +most enchanting time during Mary the cook's holiday sojourn in +Boston," Mrs. Hawthorne wrote at one time. "We remained in our bower +undisturbed by mortal creature. Mr. Hawthorne took the new phases of +housekeeper, and, with that marvellous power of adaptation to +circumstances that he possesses, made everything go easily and well. +He rose betimes in the mornings and kindled fires in the kitchen and +breakfast room, and by the time I came down the tea-kettle boiled and +potatoes were baked and rice cooked, and my lord sat with a book +superintending." + +Poverty put an untimely end to life at the Old Manse. The years from +1846 to 1852 were spent in Boston and Salem. In 1852 Hawthorne was +able to buy a dilapidated old house at Concord, which he called The +Wayside. Here he remained until his appointment in 1853 as American +Consul at Liverpool, and to it he returned after long wandering. + +The Wayside had been the home of Bronson Alcott. Here Mr. and Mrs. +Hawthorne made their second real home. They rejoiced as, a little at a +time, they were able to improve the property, and they showed always +that they knew the secret of finding happiness in the midst of +privations. + +Hawthorne described his new abode for his friend, George William +Curtis: + + "As for my old house, you will understand it better after + spending a day or two in it. Before Mr. Alcott took it in + hand, it was a mean-looking affair, with two peaked gables; + no suggestion about it and no venerableness, although from + the style of its architecture it seems to have survived + beyond its first century. He added a porch in front, and a + central peak, and a piazza at each end, and painted it a + rusty olive hue, and invested the whole with a modest + picturesqueness; all which improvements, together with the + situation at the foot of a wooded hill, make it a place that + one notices and remembers for a few minutes after passing + it.... + + "The house stands within ten or fifteen feet of the old + Boston road (along which the British marched and retreated), + divided from it by a fence, and some trees and shrubbery of + Mr. Alcott's setting out. Wherefore I have called it 'The + Wayside,' which I think a better name and more morally + suggestive than that which, as Mr. Alcott has since told me, + he bestowed on it, 'The Hillside.' In front of the house, on + the opposite side of the road, I have eight acres of + land,--the only valuable portion of the place in a farmer's + eye, and which are capable of being made very fertile. On the + hither side, my territory extends some little distance over + the brow of the hill, and is absolutely good for nothing, in + a productive point of view, though very good for many other + purposes. + + "I know nothing of the history of the house, except Thoreau's + telling me that it was inhabited a generation or two ago by a + man who believed he should never die. I believe, however, he + is dead; at least, I hope so; else he may probably appear and + dispute my title to his residence." + +In furnishing the house Mrs. Hawthorne took keen pleasure in putting +the best of everything in her husband's study. She called it "the best +room, the temple of the Muses and the Delphic shrine." + +In these surroundings, supported by a wife who worshipped him, +Hawthorne wrote until the call came to go to England. It was 1860 +before he returned to The Wayside. There he hoped to end his life, +but death overtook him at Plymouth, New Hampshire, while he was making +a tour of New England with Franklin Pierce. Mrs. Hawthorne survived +him seven years. + + + [Illustration: ROYALL HOUSE, MEDFORD, MASS. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 66] + +XII + +THE ROYALL HOUSE, MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS + +FROM WHOSE ROOF MOLLY STARK SIGNALLED TO HER HUSBAND + +One who is familiar with the old plantation houses of Virginia is +tempted to rub his eyes when he first sees the Royall House at +Medford, Massachusetts, for this relic of Colonial days has the +outbuildings, the slave-quarters, and other characteristics of so many +Virginia houses. True, it has not the low wings and the stately +columns at the entrance, but the doorway is so chaste and dignified +that this is not felt to be a lack. Those who enter the doorway and +walk reverently through the rooms of what has been called the finest +specimen of colonial architecture in the vicinity of Boston, are +filled anew with admiration for the builders of another day who chose +the finest white pine for their work, and would not dream of scamping +anywhere. Evidently there was little need in those days of the +services of an inspector to see that the terms of a contract were +carried out. + +The history of the property goes back to 1631, when Governor John +Winthrop, the first governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, who +served for nineteen years, secured a grant to the farm on which, +within six or seven years, the original dormer-windowed Royall House +was built. This was smaller than the present house, but it was later +incorporated in the present stately mansion; one story was added, and +the outer wall was moved a few feet. Thus it is really a house within +a house. + +At the time of Governor Winthrop's ownership it was called the +Ten-Hill Farmhouse, because ten hills could be seen from its windows. +John Winthrop, Jr., sold the place to Mrs. Elizabeth Lidgett. +Lieutenant Governor Usher married a Lidgett, and owned the estate +until he lost it through business reverses. The name was not changed +until 1732, when the house was bought by Isaac Royall, a planter from +Antigua, in the Leeward Islands, a descendant of William Royall of +Salem. He paid L10,350 for the estate, which then consisted of five +hundred and four acres. It was he who enlarged the house. For five +years the neighbors watched the transformation of the comfortable +Ten-Hill Farmhouse to the great Royall House, with its enclosing wall, +elm-bordered driveway, pleasing garden, summerhouse, great barn, and +rambling slave-quarters. + +Two generations of Royalls entertained lavishly here. Among the guests +were the most celebrated men of the time, as well as many who were not +so well known, for all were welcome there. Many of these guests drove +up the driveway to the paved courtyard in their own grand equipages. +Some were brought in the four-horse Royall chariot. But those who came +on foot were welcomed as heartily. + +Isaac Royall, II, was a Tory, and in 1775 he was compelled to abandon +the property. Thereupon Colonel, later General, John Stark made it +his headquarters. The regiment which he had himself raised, and whose +wages he paid for a time from his own pocket, was encamped near by. +From the Royall house these men and their intrepid leader went out to +the Battle of Bunker Hill. + +Under the direction of Molly Stark the house maintained its reputation +for hospitality, and she did her best to make the place the abode of +patriotism. On the day when the British evacuated Boston she promised +her husband to signal to him from the roof the movements of the enemy. +Passing on with his soldiers to Dorchester Heights, he anxiously +awaited the news sent to him by his faithful Molly. + +The Royall family regained possession of the property in 1805. To-day +it is owned by the Royall House Association, which keeps it open to +the visitors. These come in large numbers to see relics of former +days, including what is said to be the only chest that survived the +Boston Tea Party, the sign of the Royall Oak Tavern in Medford, which +bears the marks of the bullets of the soldiers who were on their way +to the Battle of Bunker Hill, the old furniture, the first fork used +in the Colony, and the furnishings of the quaint kitchen fireplace, +which dates from 1732. + + + [Illustration: BROADHEARTH, SAUGUS, MASS. + _Photo by Wallace Nutting, Inc., Framingham Center, Mass_ + See page 69] + +XIII + +BROADHEARTH AND THE BENNET-BOARDMAN HOUSE, SAUGUS, MASSACHUSETTS + +TWO REMARKABLE SPECIMENS OF THE OVERHANG HOUSE + +"Thomas Dexter of Lyn, yeoman," was the first owner of much of the +land on which Lynn, Massachusetts, is built. Evidently he was land +poor, for on October 22, 1639, he "mortgaged his fearme in Lyn ... for +two oxen & 2 bulls upon condition of payment to Simon Broadstreet of +Ipswich L90 the first day of August, the next following with a +reservation upon the sale of the said fearme to give the said Dexter +the overflow above the debt and damages of the said L90." + +Six years later the Registry of Deeds at Salem told of the sale, to +Richard Leader, Gent, of England, of a bit of the farm on which +Governor Broadstreet held a mortgage. Mr. Leader was the agent of "ye +Company of undertakers of ye Iron Works," and he thought that Dexter +had the best location for the purposes of the company that proposed to +start what proved to be the first successful iron works in the +Colonies. The quaint story of the transaction was entered thus: + + "Thomas Dexter of Lyn in the County of Essex ye[oman] for the + sum of 40 L st[erling] hath sowld unto Richard Leder for ye + use of ye Iron works all that land, wch by reason of [a] + damme now agreed to be made, shall overflow and all + sufficient ground for a water course from the damme, to the + works to be erected, and alsoe all [the] land betwene the + an[cient] water course and the new extended flume or water + course togeather with five acres and an halfe of land lying + in the corn field most convenient for the Iron Works and also + tooe convenient cartwayes that is to one on each side of the + premises as by a deed indented bearing date the twentie + seaventh of January, 1645, more at lardge apth." + +On the ground thus bought a sturdy house, Broadhearth, was built in +1646. The second story overhung the first story, after the manner of +many English houses of the period. The overhang is still in evidence, +though a veranda has hidden it except to the careful observer. + +The first product of the iron works, a kettle, was made in 1642. This +is still in existence. During more than one hundred years neighboring +colonists looked to the foundry for their supplies of house hardware, +furnishings, and implements of iron. The site of the foundry was +opposite the house, while traces of the pits from which the bog ore +was dug are easily found in the field at the rear. Remains of scoria +and slag are also pointed out to the visitor by employees of the +Wallace Nutting Corporation, which has restored the house as nearly as +possible to its original condition and has placed in it furniture of +the period. A caretaker has been placed in charge who will copy for +applicants iron work in the house, or other old examples. Thus, in a +modest way, the Saugus Iron Works has been reestablished. + + [Illustration: BENNET-BOARDMAN HOUSE, SAUGUS, MASS. + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See page 69] + +Another specimen of the overhang house is not far away. This is the +house built some time between 1649 and 1656 by Samuel Bennet, +carpenter. It is famous as the house that has been in two counties, +Suffolk and Essex, and in four towns, Boston, Lynn, Chelsea, and +Saugus. + +That it was once in Boston was due to the narrow strip of the +territory of the city that stretched far out in the country, somewhat +after the manner of a portion of a modern gerrymandered legislative +district. When the district was set off as Chelsea and Lynn, in +response to a petition of citizens who were inconvenienced by their +distance from town meetings, the boundaries between Chelsea and Lynn +were carelessly marked; one line ran directly through the front door +and the chimney of the Bennet house. This mistake, which caused +annoyance and expense to those who occupied the house, was not +corrected for more than one hundred years. Finally Abijah Boardman +asked that he be relieved of his double liability to Lynn and Chelsea, +and in 1803, by Act of the General Court, the petition was granted. + +Bennet, the builder of the house, figured more than once in the +courts. In 1644 the Grand Jury indicted him as "a Common sleeper in +time of exercise," and he was fined 2s. 6d. In 1671 he brought suit +against the Iron Works Company for L400 for labor. In connection with +this suit John Paule, whose "constant employment was to repair carts, +coale carts, mine carts, and other working materials" for the "tiemes" +at the iron works, testified that "my master Bennet did yearly yearme +a vast sum from said Iron Works, for he commonly yearmed forty or +fifty shillings a daye, for he had five or six teemes goeing generally +every faire day." + +Bennets and Boardmans have held the house from the beginning. The +Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities has +interested itself in the protection of the property. + + +XIV + +THE COLONEL JEREMIAH LEE HOUSE, MARBLEHEAD, MASSACHUSETTS + +THE HOME OF ONE OF THE EARLIEST MARTYRS TO THE CAUSE OF THE COLONIES + +Marblehead was a comparatively insignificant port when Jeremiah Lee +came to town. At once he made a place for himself among the humble +fishermen and other seafaring men of the place. He was a member of the +Board of Firewards in the town's first fire department, and he served +on important committees. + +When, in 1768, he built a wonderful mansion that cost more than ten +thousand pounds, the most wonderful house in Massachusetts at the +time, his townsmen knew him well enough to understand that he was +their good friend, even if he did have much more money than any of +them. + +The Lee Mansion was a hospitable home. The Colonel and his wife Martha +entertained lavishly, not only the people of the town but famous men +from abroad. In 1789 Washington was entertained in the house. But it +was one of the glories of the mansion that the humblest mariner in the +place was not slow to go there if he wished to have a chat with the +bluff owner or if he desired to go to the quaint cupola from which it +is possible to look far out to sea. To this outlook Colonel Lee +himself often went, for his ships were sailing to Marblehead from all +parts of the world, and he was as eager as any one to turn his eyes +seaward. + +The house is sixty-four feet by forty-six feet, and the walls are of +brick, though they are covered with wooden clapboards two feet by one +and a half feet. There are fifteen rooms, in addition to the great +halls that make the house seem like a palace. + +In these rooms the Colonel conferred with other patriots as to the +welfare of Massachusetts and all the colonies. From the house he went +out to the town meetings where the men gathered to talk over the +Boston Port Bill and the Boston Tea Party and questions of Taxation +without Representation. + +He rejoiced to serve as a representative in the General Court and on +the Committee of Safety and Supplies of the Province. He was chosen to +represent the town in the Continental Congress, and when he was unable +to go, Elbridge Gerry, who later became Vice-President of the United +States, was sent in his place at the expense of the town. + +On the night of April 18, 1775, in company with Elbridge Gerry and +Azor Orin, who were members with him of the Committee of Safety and +Supplies, he was attending a meeting at Weatherby's Black Horse Tavern +just outside of Cambridge. The meeting adjourned so late that the +three men decided to spend the night at the tavern. The eight hundred +British soldiers who were on their way that night to Lexington learned +of the presence in Cambridge of the patriots. Some one rushed to the +tavern and roused them from slumber. They did not even have time to +put on their clothes, but ran at once from the house and hid +themselves at some distance from the tavern. When the disappointed +troops had gone on, the hunted men returned to their room. + +Three weeks later Lee died as the result of the exposure. He has been +called one of the earliest martyrs to the cause of the Colonies. +Before he died he left directions that five thousand pounds should be +given to the treasury of the provinces. + +Mrs. Lee, who was Martha Swett of Marblehead, lived on in the mansion +with those of her eight children who had not gone already to homes of +their own. Under her guidance the hospitality for which the house had +become noted was maintained. + +Those who pass between the beautiful porch pillars and enter the +chaste colonial doorway are amazed at the remarkable hallway and the +stairs. The hall is fifteen feet wide and extends the length of the +house. It is heavily wainscoted with mahogany. On the walls hangs +remarkable panelled paper whose designs, depicting ancient +architecture, are in keeping with the majestic proportions of the +place. The stairway is so wide that four or five people can climb it +abreast and the balustrade and the spindles are of exquisite +workmanship. + +The rear stairway is far more ornate than the best stairway in most +houses, and the rooms are in keeping with the hall and the stairways. + +The cupola is one of the most striking features of the house. Here six +windows give a view that is worth going far to see. + +When Mrs. Lee died, the property descended to her son. Judge Samuel +Sewell was a later owner. But the day came when it was to be sold at +auction. All Marblehead feared that the historic place would be +destroyed. Fortunately the Marblehead Historical Society was able to +raise the fifty-five hundred dollars needed to secure it. + +Since July 9, 1909, the Society has owned the mansion. For six months +of every year it is open to visitors who throng to see the choice +collection of china, portraits, embroidery, and furniture that has +been gathered together by the Society. + + + [Illustration: OLD SOUTH CHURCH, NEWBURYPORT, MASS. + _Photo Furnished by Rev. A. McDonald, Newburyport, Mass._ + See page 75] + +XV + +THE OLD SOUTH CHURCH, NEWBURYPORT, MASSACHUSETTS + +WHERE GEORGE WHITEFIELD, THE GREAT EVANGELIST, IS BURIED + +More than one hundred years after the organization of the First Church +of Newburyport, Rev. George Whitefield, then a young man of +twenty-six, preached in the community. "The Great Awakening," which +followed, spread all over New England, and more than thirty thousand +were converted. Whitefield, Jonathan Edwards, the Tennents, and others +led in the work that had such wonderful results. + +Five years after Whitefield's visit to Newburyport the Old South +Church was organized, most of those who became members having been +converted under Whitefield's preaching. The new church was actually a +Presbyterian church from the beginning, though it did not finally +adopt the Presbyterian form of government until 1802. + +The members of the new church were called "a misguided band," and "new +schemers." Their first pastor was called a dissenting minister. Their +protest against these aspersions took the form of a petition to "The +King's Most Excellent Majesty," which was a prayer for that "equal +liberty of conscience in worshipping God" that had already been +granted to others. The petition recited the desire of the people to be +relieved of taxation "for the support of ministers on whose ministry +they cannot in conscience attend," and stated that, because of their +refusal to pay what they felt were unjust taxes, "honest and peaceable +men have been hauled away to prison to their great hurt and damage." + +When the petition was presented to the king by Mr. Partridge, their +agent, he declared that they were not "a wild, friekish people," and +cited as an argument for relief from double taxation that, while they +had some wealthy members, there were among them "more poor widows than +all the other congregations in town put together." He said those who +protested against double taxation had been "dragged about upon the +ground," dressed up in bear skins and worried, and imprisoned. + +The protest did not bring relief at once; it was 1773 before the +General Court granted the plea of the members. For more than twenty +years more the town tried to collect double taxes, but in 1795 the +rights of the members of Old South were conceded. + +The first building, erected in 1743, gave way in 1756 to the structure +still in use. Alterations made since that time have not made any great +change in its appearance, except in the tower, which was repaired in +1848, because it was thought that the timber must be decaying. +However, to the surprise of the carpenters who undertook the repairs, +they were found as sound as ever. A half-hour was required to saw +through one of them! + +The bell in the new tower was cast by Paul Revere. Surmounting the +spire is a cock which was perched on the original tower. When this +tower, after the carpenters had done all they could with their saws, +was pulled over by horses and oxen, the cock broke loose and fell at +some distance. The man who picked up the figure was surprised to find +that it was of solid copper, instead of wood, as had been thought, and +that it weighed more than fifty pounds. + +In the original pews there was a central chair, surrounded by seats +hung on hinges. Over the pulpit was a sounding board. At the head of +the pulpit stair a seat was provided for the sexton, that he might be +on hand to trim the candles during the evening service. + +The official history of the church, written by Dr. H. C. Hovey, gives +interesting facts concerning the heating of the old building: + + "For seventy years those who crowded this church depended on + footstoves altogether for warmth in winter; while the + minister preached in his ample cloak, and wore gloves with a + finger and thumb cut off to enable him the better to turn the + leaves. A law was made allowing the sexton twenty cents for + each footstove that he had to fill before service and remove + afterward. A great sensation was made in 1819 by the + introduction of wood stoves at an outlay of $100. The first + day they were in place the people were so overcome that some + of them fainted away and were carried out of the house; but + they revived on learning that as yet no fire had been + kindled in the new stoves. The doors of the stoves opened + into the ample vestibule, where the custom continued of + ranging the many footstoves in a wide circle to be filled + with live coals from the stove." + +On the Sunday after the battle of Lexington Dr. Jonathan Parsons made +an appeal in the name of liberty. After this Captain Ezra Lunt stepped +into the aisle and formed a company of sixty men, which is said to +have been the first company of volunteers to join the Continental +Army. + +Later Newburyport supplied a number of companies. But the call came +for still another company. "Day after day the recruiting officers +toiled in vain," Dr. Hovey writes, "Finally the regiment was invited +to the Presbyterian church, where they were addressed in such spirited +and stirring words that once again a number of this church stepped +forth to take the covenant, and in two hours after the benediction had +been spoken the entire company was raised." + +During the war twenty-two vessels and one thousand men, from the towns +of Newbury and Newburyport, were lost at sea. The first American flag +seen in British waters, after the cessation of hostilities, was +displayed in the Thames by Nicholas Johnson of Newburyport, captain of +the _Compte de Grasse_. + +Among the treasures of the church is the Bible which Whitefield used. +The evangelist, who died Sunday, September 30, 1770, is buried in the +crypt under the pulpit where he had planned to preach on the very day +of his death, as he had preached many times during the years since the +building of the church. To this dark crypt thousands of reverent +visitors have groped their way. One, less reverent, removed an arm of +the skeleton and carried it to England as a relic. No one knew what +had become of it until, after the death of the thief, it was returned +to Newburyport, together with a bust of Whitefield. This bust is also +one of the treasures of Old South. + +Those who love this old church at Newburyport delight in the lines of +John Greenleaf Whittier: + + "Under the church of Federal Street, + Under the tread of its Sabbath feet, + Walled about by its basement stones, + Lie the marvellous preacher's bones. + No saintly honors to them are shown, + No sign nor miracle have they known; + But he who passes the ancient church + Stops in the shade of its belfry-porch, + And ponders the wonderful life of him + Who lies at rest in that charnel dim. + Long shall the traveller strain his eye + From the railroad car, as it plunges by, + And the vanishing town behind him search + For the slender spire of the Whitefield Church; + And feel for one moment the ghosts of trade + And fashion and folly and pleasure laid, + By the thought of that life of pure intent, + That voice of warning, yet eloquent, + Of one on the errands of angels sent. + And if where he labored the flood of sin + Like the tide from the harbor-bar sets in. + And over a life of time and sense + The church-spires lift their vain defence, + As if to scatter the bolts of God + With the points of Calvin's thunder-rod,-- + Still, as the gem of its civic crown, + Precious beyond the world's renown, + His memory hallows the ancient town!" + + +XVI + +THE FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH, PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND + +THE OLDEST BAPTIST CHURCH IN AMERICA + +When Roger Williams, Welshman, left England for America because he +could not find in the Church of England freedom to worship God +according to his conscience, he came to Salem, in the Massachusetts +Bay Colony. There he joined others who had sought America for the same +purpose, but to his disappointment he found that his ideas of liberty +of worship did not agree with theirs, and he was once more adrift. On +October 9, 1635, the authorities of the Colony ordered that he "shall +depart out of this jurisdiction." He was later given permission to +remain until spring, on condition that he make no attempt "to draw +others to his opinions." + +On the ground that he had broken the implied agreement, the Governor, +on January 11, 1636, sent for him to go to Boston, from whence he was +to be banished to England. Williams sent word that he was ill and +could not come at the time. A force of men was sent to seize him, but +when they reached his house he had departed already, turning his face +toward the southern wilderness. He was "sorely tossed for fourteen +weeks in a bitter winter season, not knowing what bread or bed did +mean." + +On April 30, 1636, he came to the country of the Wampanoags, where the +sachem Massasoit made him a grant of land. Within a short time some +of his friends joined him, and primitive houses were built. Then came +word from the Governor of Massachusetts Bay that he must go beyond the +bounds of the Plymouth Colony. Accordingly, with six others, he +embarked in canoes and sought for a location. When this was found +Canonicus and Mantonomi agreed to let the company have lands, and soon +the new settlement was made and named Providence, in recognition of +God's care of him during his journey. Then others joined him and his +companions. + +Two years after the settlement of Providence twelve of the citizens +decided that they must have a church. One of the company, Ezekiel +Hollyman, baptized Roger Williams and Williams baptized Hollyman and +ten others. The twelve then baptized were the original members of the +first church of Providence, Rhode Island, the first Baptist church in +America, and the second in the world. Roger Williams was the first +pastor, but he withdrew before the close of the year in which the +church was organised. During the remaining forty-five years of his +life he remained in Providence as a missionary among the Indians, +whose friendship he had won by his scrupulously careful and honorable +method of dealing with them. + +The church met in private houses or under the trees, for more than +sixty years. The first meeting house was not erected until 1700. The +builder was Pardon Tillinghast, the sixth pastor of the church, who, +like his predecessors, served without salary. However, he urged that +the church should begin to pay its way, and that his successor should +receive a stipulated salary. The Tillinghast building was in use for +fifteen years after it was deeded to the congregation, in 1711. The +deed, which is on record at the Providence City Hall, calls the church +a "Six-Principle church." + +The growth of the congregation called for a larger building. This was +erected in 1726 and was used until 1774. An old document gives an +interesting side light on the building of the meeting house. This is +an account of Richard Brown, dated May 30, 1726, which reads: + + The account of what charge I have been at this day as to the + providing a dinner for the people that raised the Baptist + meeting-house at Providence (it being raised this day,) is as + followeth: + + One fat sheep, which weighed forty-three lbs. L0,14,04 + + For roasting the said sheep, etc. 8 + + For one lb. butter 1 + + For two loaves of bread which weighed fifteen lbs. 2 + + For half a peck of peas 1,03 + +When the building was planned the Charitable Baptist Society was +incorporated, that it might hold title to "a meeting-house for the +public worship of Almighty God, and to hold Commencement in." Nearly a +third of the L7,000 required for the new building was raised by a +lottery, authorized by the State. The architects modelled the church +after the popular St. Martins-in-the-Fields in London, whose designer +was James Gibbs, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. + +In the two-hundred-foot spire was hung the bell made in London, on +which were inscribed the strange words: + + "For freedom of conscience this town was first planted; + Persuasion, not force was used by the people: + This Church is the eldest, and has not recanted, + Enjoying and granting bell, temple, and steeple." + +The pastor at the time the new church was first occupied, on May 28, +1775, was president of Rhode Island College, an institution which had +been located in Providence in 1773, in consequence of the generosity +and activity of the members of the church. The institution later +became Brown University. Every one of the presidents of the college +has been a member of the First Church. + +A church whose building was dedicated "midway between the battles of +Lexington and Bunker Hill" should have a patriotic history. The story +of Providence during the Revolution shows that the members were keenly +alive to their opportunities. The first suggestion for the Continental +Congress came from Providence. Rhode Island was the first State to +declare for independence. Pastor and people were ardent supporters of +these movements. Many soldiers were furnished to the army by the +congregation. + +Naturally, then, people would be interested in a man like Stephen +Gano, who became pastor in 1792. He had been a surgeon in the +Revolutionary Army, and had been taken prisoner, put on board a +prison-ship, and bound in chains, which made scars that lasted for +life. His pastorate of thirty-six years was the longest in the history +of the church. + +The stately building erected in 1774 is still in use. The gallery long +set apart for the use of slaves has given way to a square loft, the +old pews have been displaced by modern seats, and the lofty pulpit and +sounding-board have disappeared. Otherwise the church is much as it +was when the first congregation entered its doors in 1775. + + + + +TWO: WHERE PATROONS AND KNICKERBOCKERS FLOURISHED + + _Where nowadays the Battery lies, + New York had just begun, + A new-born babe, to rub its eyes, + In Sixteen Sixty-One. + They christened it Nieuw Amsterdam, + Those burghers grave and stately, + And so, with schnapps and smoke and psalm, + Lived out their lives sedately._ + + _Two windmills topped their wooden wall, + On stadthuys gazing down, + On fort, and cabbage-plots, and all + The quaintly gabled town; + These flapped their wings and shifted backs, + As ancient scrolls determine, + To scare the savage Hackensacks, + Paumanks, and other vermin_. + + _At night the loyal settlers lay + Betwixt their feather-beds; + In hose and breeches walked by day, + And smoked, and wagged their heads. + No changeful fashions came from France, + The vrouwleins to bewilder; + No broad-brimmed burgher spent for pants + His every other guilder._ + + _In petticoats of linsey red, + And jackets neatly kept, + The vrouws their knitting-needles sped + And deftly spun and swept. + Few modern-school flirtations there + Set wheels of scandal trundling, + But youths and maidens did their share + Of staid, old-fashioned bundling._ + + EDMUND CLARENCE STEDMAN. + + + + +TWO: WHERE PATROONS AND KNICKERBOCKERS FLOURISHED + + + [Illustration: MORRIS-JUMEL HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY. + _Photo by Frank Cousins Art Company_ + See page 87] + +XVII + +THE MORRIS-JUMEL MANSION, NEW YORK CITY + +WHERE WASHINGTON ESCAPED FROM THE BRITISH BY A FIFTEEN MINUTE MARGIN + + "A Pleasant situated Farm, on the Road leading to King's + Bridge, in the Township of Harlem, on York-Island, containing + about 100 acres, near 30 acres of which is Wood-land, a fine + piece of Meadow Ground, and more easily be made: and commands + the finest Prospect in the whole Country: the Land runs from + River to River: there is Fishing, Oystering, and Claming at + either end...." + +When, in 1765, Roger Morris, whose city house was at the corner of +Whitehall and Stone streets, saw this advertisement in the New York +_Mercury_, he hungered for the country. So he bought the offered land, +and by the summer of 1766 he had completed the sturdy Georgian house +that, after a century and a half, looks down on the city that has +grown to it and beyond it. + +In an advertisement published in 1792, in the New York _Daily +Advertiser_, a pleasing description of the mansion of Roger Morris was +given: + + "On the premises is a large dwelling-house, built in modern + style and taste and elegance. It has ... a large hall + through the centre; a spacious dining room on the right.... + On the left is a handsome parlor and a large back room.... On + the second floor are seven bedchambers ... On the upper floor + are five lodging rooms ... and at the top of the house is + affixed an electric conducter. Underneath the building are a + large, commodious kitchen and laundry and wine cellar, + storeroom, kitchen pantry, sleeping apartments for servants, + and a most complete dairy room...." + +For nine years Roger Morris and his family lived in the mansion on the +Heights. As a member of the Legislative Council much of his time was +given to the interests of his fellow-citizens. But as time passed he +found himself out of sympathy with his neighbors. They demanded war +with Great Britain, and he felt that he could not join the revolt. +Accordingly, in 1775, he sailed for England, leaving his large +property in the care of Mrs. Morris. + +Mrs. Morris kept the house open for a time, but finally, taking her +children with her, she went to her sister-in-law at the Philipse Manor +House at Yonkers. + +On September 14, 1776, General Washington decided to abandon the city +to the British. He planned to go to Harlem, to the fortification +prepared in anticipation of just such an emergency. On September 15 he +took possession of the Roger Morris house as headquarters. Two days +later his Orderly Book shows the following message, referring to the +battle of Harlem Heights: + + "The General most heartily thanks the troops commanded + yesterday by Major Leitch, who first advanced upon the enemy, + and the others who so resolutely supported them. The behavior + of yesterday was such a contrast to that of some troops the + day before [at Kip's Bay] as must show what may be done when + Officers and Soldiers exert themselves." + +During the weeks when the mansion remained Washington's headquarters +the curious early flag of the colonists waved above it. In the space +now given to the stars was the British Union Jack, while the thirteen +red and white stripes that were to become so familiar completed the +design. This flag the English called "the Rebellious Stripes." + +On November 16, 1776, Washington was at Fort Lee, on the New Jersey +shore, opposite the present 160th Street. Desiring to view from the +Heights the British operations in their attack on Fort Washington, he +crossed over to the Morris house. Fifteen minutes after he left the +Heights to return to New Jersey, fourteen thousand British and Hessian +troops took possession of the Heights, the Morris Mansion, and Fort +Washington. + +The period of British occupation continued, at intervals, until near +the close of the war. Since the owner was a Loyalist, the British +Government paid rent for it. + +After the Revolution the property was confiscated, as appears from an +entry in Washington's diary, dated July 10, 1790: + + "Having formed a Party consisting of the Vice-President, his + lady, Son & Miss Smith; the Secretaries of State, Treasury, & + War, and the ladies of the two latter; with all the Gentlemen + of my family, Mrs. Lear & the two Children, we visited the + old position of Fort Washington, and afterwards dined on a + dinner provided by a Mr. Mariner at the House lately Colo. + Roger Morris, but confiscated and in the occupation of a + common Farmer." + +For nearly thirty years after the Revolution the stately old house was +occupied as a farmhouse or as a tavern. In 1810 it became the home of +Stephen Jumel, a wealthy New York merchant, whose widow, Madam Jumel, +later gave such wonderful entertainments in the house that the whole +city talked about her. After many years of life alone in the mansion, +in July, 1833, she married Aaron Burr. He was then seventy-two years +old, while she was fifty-nine. + +Madam Jumel-Burr lived until July 16, 1865. During her last years she +was demented and did many strange things. For a time she maintained an +armed garrison in the house, and she rode daily about the grounds at +the head of fifteen or twenty men. + +The mansion passed through a number of hands until, in 1903, title to +it was taken by the City of New York, on payment of $235,000. + +For three years the vacant house was at the mercy of souvenir hunters, +but when, in 1906, it was turned over to the Daughters of the American +Revolution, to be used as a Revolutionary Museum, twelve thousand +dollars were appropriated for repairs and restoration. This amount was +woefully inadequate, but it is hoped that further appropriation will +make complete restoration possible. + +The spacious grounds that once belonged to the mansion have been sold +for building lots, but the house looks down proudly as ever from its +lofty site almost opposite the intersection of Tenth Avenue and One +Hundred and Sixty-first Street with St. Nicholas Avenue. The corner +of its original dooryard is now Roger Morris Park. + + + [Illustration: PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, N. Y. + _Photo by A. V. Card, Yonkers_ + See page 91] + +XVIII + +THE PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, NEW YORK + +THE HOME OF MARY PHILIPSE, IN WHOM GEORGE WASHINGTON WAS INTERESTED + +At first glance one would not think that the name Yonkers was derived +very directly from the name of the first settlers of the region, de +Jonkheer Adriaen Van der Donck. When, in 1646, he secured a large +tract of land bounded by the Hudson, the Bronx, and Spuyten Duyvil +Creek, this was called "Colen Donck" (Donck's Colony) or "De +Jonkheer's" (the Young Lord's). As the Dutch "j" is pronounced "y," +the transition from Jonkheers to Yonkers was easy. + +On September 29, 1672, after the death of the original owner, 7,708 +acres of the princely estate were sold to three men, of whom Frederick +Philipse (originally Ffreric Vlypse) was one. A few years later +Philipse bought out the heirs of the other two purchasers, and added +to his holdings by further purchases from his countrymen and from the +Indians. On June 12, 1693, he was permitted to call himself lord of +the Manor of Philipsburgh. From that day the carpenter from Friesland, +who had grown so rich that he was called "the Dutch millionaire," +lived in state in the house he had begun in 1682. + +This lord of the manor became still more important in consequence of +the acceptance of his offer to build a bridge over Spuyt-den-duyvil, +or "Spiting Devil" Creek, when the city declined to do so for lack of +funds. The deed given to him stated that he had "power and authority +to erect a bridge over the water or river commonly called Spiten devil +ferry or Paparimeno, and to receive toll from all passengers and +drovers of cattle that shall pass thereon, according to rates +hereinafter mentioned." This bridge, which was called Kingsbridge, was +a great source of revenue until 1713, when it was removed to the +present site. Then tolls were charged until 1759, or, nominally, until +1779. + +Part of the Manor House was used as a trading post. Everything +Philipse handled seemed to turn into gold. All his ventures prospered. +It was whispered that some of these ventures were more than a little +shady, that he had dealings with pirates and shared in their +ill-gotten gains, and that he even went into partnership with Captain +Kidd when that once honest man became the prince of the very pirates +whom the Government had commissioned him to apprehend. And Philipse, +as a member of the Governor's Council, had recommended this Kidd as +the best man for the job! It is not strange that the lord of the manor +felt constrained to resign his seat in the council because of the +popular belief in the statement made by the Governor, that "Kidd's +missing treasures could be readily found if the coffers of Frederick +Philipse were searched." + +Colonel Frederick Philipse, the great-grandson of Captain Kidd's +partner, enlarged the Manor House to its present proportions and +appearance. He also was prominent in the affairs of the Colony. He was +a member of the Provincial Assembly, and was chairman of a meeting +called on August 20, 1774, to select delegates to the county +convention which was to select a representative to the First +Continental Congress. Thus, ostensibly, he was taking his place with +those who were crying out for the redress of grievances suffered at +the hands of Great Britain. Yet it was not long until it was evident +that he was openly arrayed with those who declined to turn from their +allegiance to the king. + +The most famous event that took place in the Philipse Manor was the +marriage, on January 28, 1758, of the celebrated beauty, Mary +Philipse, to Colonel Roger Morris. A letter from Joseph Chew to George +Washington, dated July 13, 1757, shows that--in the opinion of the +writer, at least--the young Virginian soldier was especially +interested in Mary Philipse. In this letter, which he wrote after his +return from a visit to Mrs. Beverly Robinson in New York, the sister +of Mary Philipse, he said: + + "I often had the Pleasure of Breakfasting with the Charming + Polly, Roger Morris was there (Don't be startled) but not + always, you know him he is a Lady's man, always something to + say, the Town talk't of it as a sure & settled Affair. I + can't say I think so and that I much doubt it, but assure you + had Little Acquaintance with Mr. Morris and only slightly + hinted it to Miss Polly, but how can you be Excused to + Continue so long in Phila. I think I should have made a kind + of Flying March of it if it had been only to have seen + whether the Works were sufficient to withstand a Vigorous + Attack, you a soldier and a Lover, mind I have been arguing + for my own Interest now for had you taken this method then I + should have had the Pleasure of seeing you--my Paper is + almost full and I am Convinced you will be heartily tyred in + Reading it--however will just add that I intend to set out + to-morrow for New York where I will not be wanting to let + Miss Polly know the Sincere Regard a Friend of mine has for + her--and I am sure if she had my Eyes to see thro would + Prefer him to all others." + +While it is true that George Washington went to New York to see the +charming Polly, there is no evidence that he was especially interested +in her. + +Colonel Morris later built for his bride the Morris-Jumel Mansion, +which is still standing near 160th Street. Mrs. Morris frequently +visited at the home of her girlhood. The last visit was paid there +during Christmas week of 1776. Her father, who had been taken to +Middletown, Connecticut, because of his activities on the side of the +king, was allowed to go to his home on parole. + +In 1779 the Manor House and lands were declared forfeited because the +owner refused to take the oath of allegiance to the Colonies, and +Frederick Philipse, III, went to England. + +The property was sold in 1785. Until 1868 it was in the hands of +various purchasers. To-day the Manor House is preserved as a relic of +the days when Washington visited the house, when loyalists were driven +from the doors, and when it was the centre of some of the important +movements against the British troops. + + +XIX + +ST. PAUL'S CHAPEL, NEW YORK CITY + +WHERE WASHINGTON ATTENDED SERVICE ON HIS FIRST INAUGURATION DAY + +In the New York _Gazette_ of May 14, 1764, appeared this notice +concerning St. Paul's Chapel: + + "We are told that the Foundation Stone of the third English + Church which is about erecting in this City, is to be laid + this day. The church is to be 112 by 72 feet." + +For two years those who passed the corner of Broadway and Partition +(Fulton) Street watched the progress of the building. On October 30, +1766, it was ready for the first service. + +On the opening day there was no steeple, no organ, and no stove. But +those who entered the doors were abundantly satisfied with the work of +the architect, who is said to have been a Scotchman named McBean, a +pupil of Gibbs, the designer of St. Martins-in-the-Fields, London, to +which church the interior of St. Paul's Chapel bears a marked +resemblance. In the account of the opening the New York _Journal and +General Advertiser_ said that the new church was "one of the most +elegant edifices on the Continent." + +Between April 13, 1776, when Washington arrived in New York, and +September 15, 1776, when Lord Howe occupied the city, the church was +closed, since the rector did not see his way to omit from the service +the prayers for the king. But when the British took possession of New +York the doors were opened once more. Until the city was evacuated, +November 25, 1783, Lord Howe and many of his officers were regular +attendants at St. Paul's. + +Six days after the beginning of the British occupation the church had +a narrow escape from destruction. A fire, which Howe declared was of +incendiary origin, burned four hundred of the four thousand homes in +New York. St. Paul's Chapel was in the centre of the burnt district. +Trinity Church was destroyed, and St. Paul's was saved by the efforts +of its rector, Dr. Inglis. This was the first of five such narrow +escapes. The steeple was actually aflame during the conflagration of +1797, but the building was saved. Three times during the nineteenth +century, in 1820, 1848, and 1865, fire approached or passed by the +chapel. + +Immediately after the first inauguration of Washington, at the City +Hall, he walked to St. Paul's to ask God's blessing on the country and +his administration. During his residence in New York, until Trinity +Church was rebuilt, he was a regular attendant at the services. From +1789 to 1791 his diary records the fact many times, "Went to St. +Paul's Chappel in the forenoon." At first he used the pew built for +the Governor of New York, but later, when a President's pew was built, +he moved to this. Canopies covered both pews, while they were further +marked by the arms of the United States and of New York. + +Dr. Morgan Dix, in his address at the Centennial anniversary of the +completion of the building, told of an old man who had said to him +that when he was a boy he used to sit with other school-boys in the +north gallery, and from there he would watch the arrival of the +General and "Lady Washington" as they came up Fair Street to the +church, in a coach and four. + +In the same address Dr. Dix said: "The church remains, substantially, +such as it was in the first days; alterations have been made in it, +but they have not changed its general appearance. For justness of +proportion and elegance of style, it still holds a leading place among +our city churches, and must be regarded as a fine specimen of its +particular school of architecture. When it was built, the western end +commanded an uninterrupted view of the river and the Jersey shore, for +the waters of the Hudson then flowed up to the line of Greenwich +Street, all beyond is made land." + +In the portico of the old church is a monument to General Montgomery, +a member of St. Paul's parish, who fell at Quebec, and is buried in +the chapel. This monument, which was sent from France by Benjamin +Franklin, had an adventurous career. The vessel in which it was +shipped was captured by the British, and some time elapsed before it +reached its destined place. + + + [Illustration: FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY + _Photo by Frank Cousins Art Company_ + See page 97] + +XX + +FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY + +WHERE WASHINGTON TOOK LEAVE OF HIS SOLDIERS + +The subscribers of the _Pennsylvania Packet_, on the morning of +December 2, 1783, read the following pleasing despatch from New York +City, which was dated November 26, 1783: + + "Yesterday in the morning the American troops marched from + Haerlem, to the Bowery lanes. They remained there until about + one o'clock, when the British troops left the fort in the + Bowery, and the American troops marched in and took + possession of the city.--After the troops had taken + possession of the city, the GENERAL and GOVERNOR made their + public entry in the following manner:--Their excellencies the + general and governor with their suites on horseback. The + lieutenant governor, and the members of the council for the + temporary government of the southern district, four + a-breast.--Major-general Knox, and the officers of the army, + eight a-breast.--Citizens on horseback, eight a-breast.--The + speaker of the assembly and citizens, on foot, eight + a-breast. + + "Their excellencies the governor and commander-in-chief were + escorted by a body of West Chester light horse, under the + command of Captain Delavan. The procession proceeded down + Queen [now Pearl] Street, and through the Broad-way to Cape's + Tavern. The governor gave a public dinner at Fraunces' + tavern; and which the commander-in-chief, and other general + officers were present." + +The building which Washington made famous that day was erected by +Etienne de Lancey, probably in 1700. Samuel Fraunces purchased the +place in 1762. Soon it became one of the most popular taverns in New +York. Among its patrons were some of the leaders in the Revolution, as +well as many who were loyal to King George. But Fraunces himself never +wavered in his allegiance to the Colonies. + +One of the clubs that met regularly at Fraunces' was the Social Club, +of which John Jay, Gouverneur Morris, and Robert R. Livingston were +members. + +During the occupation of New York by the British the tavern did not +have an opportunity to play a part in the history of the country, +though the daughter of the proprietor, who was a tavern keeper at +Washington's Richmond Hill headquarters, made ineffective a plot to +poison the Commander-in-Chief. + +Ten days after Washington's triumphal entry into the city, and the +dinner at the tavern, one of the rooms was the scene of a historic +event of which Rivington's _New York Gazette_ told in these words: + + "Last Thursday noon (December 4) the principal officers of + the army in town assembled at Fraunces' tavern to take a + final leave of their illustrious, gracious and much loved + comrade, General Washington. The passions of human nature + were never more tenderly agitated than in this interesting + and distressful scene. His excellency, having filled a glass + of wine, thus addressed his brave fellow-soldiers: + + "'With an heart full of love and gratitude I now take leave + of you: I most devoutly wish that your latter days may be as + prosperous and happy as your former ones have been glorious + and honorable.' + + "These words produced extreme sensibility on both sides; they + were answered by warm expressions, and fervent wishes, from + the gentlemen of the army, whose truly pathetic feelings it + is not in our power to convey to the reader. Soon after this + scene was closed, his excellency the Governor, the honorable + the Council and Citizens of the first distinction waited on + the general and in terms the most affectionate took their + leave." + +Two years later Fraunces sold the tavern, but it retains his name to +this day. It is still at the corner of Broad and Pearl streets. Many +changes have been made in the building, under the direction of the +Sons of the Revolution, and it will continue to attract visitors as +long as it stands. + + +XXI + +THE GRANGE, NEW YORK CITY + +WHERE ALEXANDER HAMILTON SPENT HIS LAST YEARS + +After nineteen years of moving from house to house and from city to +city, Alexander Hamilton made up his mind to have a home of his own. +In 1780 he had taken Elizabeth Schuyler from a mansion in Albany that +was, in its day, almost a palace; and in 1799 he felt that the time +had come to give her a home of corresponding comfort. + +At this time he was commander-in-chief of the army of the United +States, a service that was made notable, among other things, by his +suggestion and preparation of plans for the West Point Military +Academy. + +The chosen site for the house, nine miles from Bowling Green, was +bounded by the present St. Nicholas and Tenth Avenues and 141st and +145th streets. The coach from New York to Albany afforded regular +transportation to the spot, though, of course, Hamilton had his own +equipage. When he planned the house he thought his income of $12,000 +would be ample to care for the property. Accordingly he felt justified +in offering L800 for sixteen acres, one-half of which was to be paid +in cash, the balance within a year. + +The architect chosen was John McComb, the designer of New York's old +City Hall. Hamilton and his father-in-law, General Schuyler, had a +hand in the development of the plans. In a letter to Hamilton, written +August 25, 1800, General Schuyler said: + + "If the house is boarded on the outside, and the clapboards + put on, and filled on the inside with brick, I am persuaded + no water will pass to the brick. If the clapboards are well + painted, and filling in with brick will be little if any more + expensive than lath and plaister, the former will prevent the + nuisance occasioned by rats and mice, to which you will be + eternally exposed if lath and plaister is made use of instead + of brick." + +The mason's specifications, quoted by Allan MacLane Hamilton, were as +follows: + + "Proposal for finishing General Hamilton's Country + House--Viz. + + To build two Stacks of Chimneys to contain eight fire-places, + exclusive of those in Cellar Story. + + To fill in with brick all the outside walls of the 1st and + 2nd stories, also all the interior walls that Separate the + two Octagon Rooms--and the two rooms over them--from the Hall + and other Rooms in both Stories. + + To lath and plaster the side walls of 1st and 2nd stories + with two coats & set in white. + + To plaster the interior walls which separate the Octagon Room + in both Stories, to be finished white, or as General Hamilton + may chose. + + To lath and plaster all the other partitions in both stories. + + To lath and plaster the Ceiling of the Cellar Story + throughout. + + To plaster the Sidewalls of Kitchen, Drawing Room, Hall & + passage, & to point & whitewash the Stone and brick walls of + the other part of Cellar Story. To Point outside walls of + Cellar Story and to fill in under the Sills. + + To lay both Kitchen hearths with brick, placed edge ways. + + To put a Strong Iron back in the Kitchen fire-place, five + feet long by 2-1/2 9" high. + + To Put another Iron back in the Drawing Room 3'--6" by + 2'--9". + + To place two Iron Cranes in the Kitchen fire Place--& an Iron + door for the oven mouth. + + The Rooms, Hall and Passage of the first Story to have neat + Stocco Cornices--Those of Octagon Rooms of Best Kind (but not + inriched). + + To put up the two setts of Italian Marble in the Octagon + Room, such as General Hamilton may choose--and six setts of + Stone Chimney pieces for the other Rooms. + + The Four fireplaces in the two Octagon rooms & the two rooms + over them, to have Iron Backs and jambs, and four fire places + to have backs only. + + To lay the foundations for eight piers for the Piazza. + + Mr. McComb to find at his own expense all the Material + requisite for the afore described work and execute it in a + good & workmenlike manner for one thousand Eight Hundred and + Seventy five Dollars. + + General Hamilton to have all the Materials carted and to have + all the Carpenter work done at his expense-- + + General Hamilton is to find the workmen their board or to + allow ---- shillings per day for each days work in thereof." + +One of the workmen on the house was paid $424.50 for three and +one-half years' work. Another laborer was given $152.18 for sixteen +months and twenty-seven days, or ninepence per day. The cost of the +house, complete, was L1,550. + +The country place was a joy, both indoors and out. The garden was +especially attractive to Hamilton. In a letter written from The Grange +to a friend in South Carolina, he said: + + "A garden, you know, is a very usual refuge of a disappointed + politician. The melons in your country are very fine. Will + you have the goodness to send me some seed, both of the water + and musk melons?" + +Guests were numerous. Gouverneur Morris and General Schuyler were +often at The Grange. Chancellor Kent, after a visit paid in April, +1804, wrote to his wife: + + "I went with General Hamilton on Saturday, the 21st, and + stayed till Sunday evening. There was a furious and dreadful + storm on Saturday night. It blew almost a hurricane. His + house stands high, and was much exposed, and I am certain + that in the second story, where I slept, it rocked like a + cradle. He never appeared before so friendly and amiable. I + was alone, and he treated me with a minute attention that I + did not suppose he knew how to bestow. His manners were also + very delicate and chaste. His daughter, who is nineteen years + old, has a very uncommon simplicity and modesty of + deportment, and he appeared in his domestic state the plain, + modest, and affectionate father and husband." + +The ideal life at The Grange continued only until July 13, 1804. That +morning Hamilton set out as if for the office in the city as usual, +without informing Mrs. Hamilton of the impending duel with Aaron Burr. +At noon the wife was at the side of her husband, who died next day. + +After his death there were put in her hands two letters. In these he +told of his purpose to permit his antagonist to shoot him: + + "The scruples of a Christian have determined me to expose my + own life to any extent rather than subject myself to the + guilt of taking the life of another. This much increases my + hazards, and redoubles my pangs for you.... + + "If it had been possible for me to have avoided the + interview, my love for you and my precious children would + have been alone a decisive motive. But it was not possible, + without sacrifices which would have rendered me unworthy of + your esteem." + +Mrs. Hamilton remained at The Grange as long as possible, directing +the men in the care of the estate and caring for her children. But she +could not afford to keep a carriage, and the inaccessibleness of the +estate and the drain it made on her limited purse soon made it +necessary for her to rent a house in the city. + +Though friends proposed the raising of a fund that would care for Mrs. +Hamilton and the children, it does not seem that there was any relief +until 1816, when Congress gave to Mrs. Hamilton back pay amounting to +ten thousand dollars. + +After The Grange was sold to pay debts, its career was checkered. Some +years ago it was moved to the east side of Convent Avenue, and it then +became the schoolhouse of St. Luke's Episcopal Church. + + + [Illustration: VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 104] + +XXII + +THE VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY + +AT THE EDGE OF THE MANHATTAN "NEUTRAL GROUND" + +In 1699 Jacobus Van Cortlandt bought the first fifty acres of the +ground now included in Van Cortlandt Park, New York City, and for one +hundred and ninety years the property remained in the Van Cortlandt +family. Until fifty-three years before the first of the Van +Cortlandts acquired it, the Indians were the undisputed possessors of +the plot. + +Adriaen Van der Donck, the first settler to acquire title, lived until +his death in the _bouwerie_ or farmhouse, which he built on the shore +of a brook. When Jacobus Van Cortlandt built his _bouwerie_ by the +side of the same brook, he dammed the water to make a mill-pond, which +is to-day the beautiful Van Cortlandt lake. There he built a grist +mill which remained in use until 1889. Early visitors to the lake +delighted to study the ancient structure to which, during the +Revolution, both British and patriot soldiers resorted with their +grain. The mill was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1901. + +The third house on the estate was built in 1748 by Frederick the son +of Jacobus, who acquired by the will of his father the "farm, situate, +lying, and being in a place commonly called and known by the name of +Little or Lower Yonkers." This house, which was modelled after the +Philipse Manor House at Yonkers, is still in a fine state of +preservation. Since 1897, it has been used as a public museum, in +charge of the Colonial Dames of the State of New York. + +The room fitted up as a museum was occupied by General Washington on +the occasion of his visit to the house in 1783. This room is also +pointed out as the scene of the death of Captain Rowe of the Hessian +jaegers, who was severely wounded near the house. When he realised +that he could not recover, he sent in haste for the young woman who +had promised to marry him, and he died in her arms. + +Other famous visitors were Rochambeau, Admiral Digby, and William +Henry, Duke of Clarence, who became King William IV of England. +Admiral Digby, after his departure, sent to Augustus Van Cortlandt, +the owner of the house, two wooden vultures, which he had captured +from a Spanish privateer. These vultures are now in the museum. + +The old house was the centre of important military operations during +the Revolution. Washington fortified eight strategic spots in the +vicinity of Kingsbridge, and when he withdrew before the British +occupied the fortification, a number of Hessian jaegers were quartered +in the Van Cortlandt House. To the north of the house was the neutral +ground for which the two armies continually struggled for possession. +In 1781, when Washington was about to withdraw his army to Yorktown, +he directed that camp-fires be lit on Vault Hill, the site of the Van +Cortlandt family vault. By this stratagem he succeeded for a time in +deceiving the enemy as to his movements. + +Since the building of the Broadway subway Van Cortlandt Park has been +so easy of access that the number of visitors to the historic spot has +rapidly increased. + + +XXIII + +THE HASBROUCK HOUSE, NEWBURGH, NEW YORK + +WHERE THE CLOSING DRAMA OF THE REVOLUTION WAS STAGED + +During the entire period of the Revolution the country about Newburgh +was an important centre of military operations. West Point was +fortified in 1776, that the British might not be able to carry out +their design of separating New England from the middle colonies. Many +officers had their headquarters within a few miles of these +fortifications. Lafayette was at the Williams House, three miles north +of Newburgh, while Generals Green, Gates, and Knox were at Vail's +Gate, four miles south of the town. General George Clinton was at +Little Britain, and General Anthony Wayne was in Newburgh. + +Washington's first stay in the vicinity was at Vail's Gate, New +Windsor, in the winter of 1779-80. His longest sojourn, however, was +in the house which Jonathan Hasbrouck built in 1750 and enlarged in +1770. The best description of this substantial one-story stone house +at the time of Washington's residence there is contained in the +"Memoirs" of Marquis de Chastellux, who was the guest of the +Commander-in-chief on December 6, 1872: + + "The largest room in it, (which was the proprietor's parlor + for his family, and which General Washington has converted + into his dining-room) is in truth tolerably spacious, but it + has seven doors and only one window. The chimney, or rather + the chimney back, is against the wall; so that there is in + fact but one vent for the smoke, and the fire is in the room + itself. I found the company assembled in a small room, which + served by way of parlor. At nine supper was served, and when + the hour of bed-time came, I found that the chamber, to which + the General conducted me, was the very parlor I speak of, + wherein he had made them place a camp bed...." + +The records of the months when Washington was an occupant of the old +Dutch house are among the most interesting of the war. For instance, +on May 10, 1782, there came tidings of the arrival in New York of Sir +Guy Carleton, the new British commander, who wrote that he desired to +tell of the king's idea of a possible peace, and of the attitude of +the House of Commons. He closed his letter by saying, "If war must +prevail, I shall endeavor to render its miseries as light to the +people of this continent as the circumstances of such a condition will +possibly permit." + +Two days earlier Washington wrote a letter to Meschech Weare in which +he seems to have anticipated and discredited Carleton's word of +appeal: + + "They are meant to amuse this country with a false idea of + peace, to draw us off from our connection with France, and to + lull us into a state of security and inactivity, which having + taken place, the ministry will be left to prosecute the war + in other parts of the world with greater vigor and effect." + +In less than two weeks a tempter of an entirely different sort +approached Washington. Lewis Nicola, colonel of the corps of invalids, +wrote to tell of the fact that the officers and soldiers were +discontented because they had not received their pay. Then he +intimated that he had no hope of the success of republican +institutions, but thought this country needed a ruler like a king, +though he might not be called king, owing to the objection to that +word. Yet he added, "I believe strong arguments might be produced for +admitting the title of KING, which I conceive would be attended with +some material advantages." + +To this letter Washington sent prompt reply, on May 22, 1782: + + "SIR: With a mixture of great surprise and astonishment, I + have read with attention the sentiments you have submitted + to my perusal. Be assured, Sir, no occurrence in the course + of the war has given me more painful sensations, than your + information of there being such ideas existing in the army, + as you have expressed, and I must view with abhorrence and + reprehend with severity. For the present the Communication of + this will rest in my own bosom, unless some further agitation + of the matter shall make a disclosure necessary. + + "I am much at a loss to conceive what part of my conduct + could have given encouragement to an address, which to me + seems big with the greatest mischiefs that can befall my + country. If I am not deceived in the knowledge of myself, you + could not have found a person to whom your schemes are more + disagreeable. At the same time, in justice to my own + feelings, I must add that no man possesses a more sincere + wish to see ample justice done to the Army than I do, and so + far as my power and influence, in a constitutional way, + extend, they shall be employed to the utmost of my abilities + to effect it, should there be any occasion. Let me conjure + you then, if you have any regard for your country, concern + for yourself or respect for me, to banish these thoughts from + your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself or any one + else, a sentiment of the like nature. + + "With esteem I am, sir, Your most obedient servant, + + "GEORGE WASHINGTON." + +That Washington desired to be a simple resident on his own estate at +Mount Vernon instead of king of the new country, was emphasized by a +letter written on June 15 to Archibald Cary: + + "I can truly say, that the first wish of my soul is to return + speedily into the bosom of that country which gave me birth, + and, in the sweet enjoyment of domestic happiness and the + company of a few friends, to end my days in quiet, when I + shall be called from this stage." + +There was joy in the village on the banks of the Hudson when, late in +1782, a letter came from Sir Guy Carleton announcing that negotiations +for a general peace had already begun in Paris, and that the king had +decided to propose the independence of the thirteen Provinces "in the +first instance, instead of granting it as a condition of a general +treaty." + +In the long interval before the receipt of decisive word concerning +peace, the sagacity of Washington was once more tested severely. There +was still disaffection among the officers and the men because they had +not been paid, and because Congress seemed to pay no attention to +their protests. Washington learned that a call had been issued for a +meeting of officers to be held in New Windsor to consider taking +matters into their own hands and forcing Congress to act. + +Washington did not hesitate. He asked the officers to meet him in the +very building in which they had planned to make their plans for +revolt. Then he appealed to their patriotism, urging them not to put a +stain on their noble service by hasty action. When he had gone, the +officers acted in a way that justified the General's confidence. +Unanimously they promised all that had been asked of them, and voted +to thank Washington for his method of dealing with them. + +On March 19, 1783, four days after this action, Washington +acknowledged to Congress receipt of word that the preliminary articles +of peace had been signed on November 30, and on April 18 he ordered +the cessation of hostilities, in accordance with the proclamation of +Congress. + +The Hasbrouck house was sold by the family to New York State in 1849. +For twenty-four years, by act of Assembly, the historic quarters were +cared for by the trustees of the village, and later by the city +authorities. In May, 1874, trustees appointed by the legislature took +over the property and have held it ever since, for the benefit of the +people. + + + + +THREE: ACROSS THE JERSEYS WITH THE PATRIOTS + + _See the ancient manse + Meet its fate at last! + Time, in his advance, + Age nor honor knows; + Axe and broadaxe fall, + Lopping off the Past: + Hit with bar and maul, + Down the old house goes!_ + + _Sevenscore years it stood; + Yes, they built it well, + Though they built of wood, + When that house arose. + For its cross-beams square + Oak and walnut fell; + Little worse for wear, + Down the old house goes!_ + + _On these oaken floors + High-shoed ladies trod; + Through those panelled doors + Trailed their furbelows; + Long their day has ceased; + Now, beneath the sod, + With the worms they feast,-- + Down the old house goes!_ + + _Many a bride has stood + In yon spacious room; + Here her hand was wooed + Underneath the rose; + O'er that sill the dead + Reached the family tomb; + All that were have fled,-- + Down the old house goes!_ + + _Once, in yonder hall, + Washington, they say, + Led the New Year's ball, + Stateliest of beaux; + O that minuet, + Maids and matrons gay! + Are there such sights yet? + Down the old house goes!_ + + _Doorway high the box + In the grass-plot spreads; + It has borne its locks + Through a thousand snows; + In an evil day, + From those garden beds + Now 'tis hacked away,-- + Down the old house goes!_ + + EDMUND CLARENCE STEDMAN. + + + + +THREE: ACROSS THE JERSEYS WITH THE PATRIOTS + + + [Illustration: THE FRANKLIN PALACE, PERTH AMBOY, N. J. + _Photo furnished by W. A. Little, D.D., Perth Amboy_ + See page 115] + +XXIV + +THE FRANKLIN PALACE, PERTH AMBOY, NEW JERSEY + +THE HOME OF THE SON OF WHOM BENJAMIN FRANKLIN VAINLY TRIED TO MAKE A +PATRIOT + +There was a time when Benjamin Franklin was proud of his son William, +and was glad to have his name coupled with that of the young man. + +The first year of the father's service in the Pennsylvania Assembly +William was appointed clerk of that body; this fact is mentioned with +pride in the Autobiography. + +When General Braddock was sent from England to America to oppose the +union of the Colonies for defence, "lest they should thereby grow too +military and feel their own strength," Franklin was sent by the +Assembly to Fredericktown, Maryland, to confer with the General. "My +son accompanied me on the journey," the Autobiography says. + +At Braddock's request Franklin advertised at Lancaster, Pennsylvania, +for one hundred and fifty wagons for the proposed expedition into the +interior, and at the close of the advertisement was the note, "My son, +William Franklin, is empowered to enter into like contracts with any +person in Cumberland County." + +Later, when the father was asked to secure financial assistance for +certain subalterns in Braddock's company, he wrote to the Assembly, +recommending that a present of necessaries and refreshments be sent to +those officers. "My son, who had some experience of camp life and of +its wants, drew up a list for me which I enclos'd in my letter," the +father wrote. + +When, during the French and Indian War, the Governor of Pennsylvania +asked Franklin to take charge of "our Northwestern frontier which was +infested by the enemy, and provide for the defence of the inhabitants +by raising troops and building a line of forts," he went to the front +with five hundred and sixty men. In the Autobiography he wrote, "My +son, who had in the preceding war, been an officer in the army rais'd +against Canada, was my aid-de-camp, and of great use to me." + +And in 1771, when beginning his Autobiography, Franklin addressed it +"Dear Son," and spoke of the trip the two had taken together to +England, to make "enquiries among the remains of my relations." Then +he added: + + "Imagining it may be equally agreeable to you to know the + circumstances of my life, many of which you are yet + unacquainted with, and expecting the enjoyment of a week's + uninterrupted leisure in my present country retirement, I sit + down to write them for you." + +Six years before the beginning of the Autobiography, Franklin, in +company with six other Philadelphians, entered on a land speculation +in Nova Scotia. Together they bought two hundred thousand acres of +land. There they intended to found a colony. Two shiploads of +emigrants were taken to Monkton, the site of the proposed colony, but +most of the men settled on other land, finding that this could be had +practically for nothing. Franklin's will later provided that William +be given an interest in the Nova Scotia property, and he explained the +gift by saying that this was "the only part of his estate remaining +under the sovereignty of the king of Great Britain." + +What was the explanation of the father's changed attitude to his son +that led him to make his bequest in such unpleasant terms? + +After William Franklin's return from the frontier, he was appointed +governor-in-chief of the Province of New Jersey. A mansion was built +for him in Perth Amboy by the Lord Proprietor. Its construction +required a somewhat extended time, for it was a grand place; no wonder +it was called "The Palace." But in 1774 the Governor took possession. + +Of course this was not the reason for the breach with his father. +Again Benjamin Franklin was proud of his son, and of the lavish +entertainments he made for his associates. + +But the father began to shake his head when his son became a favorite +of the Tories in Perth Amboy who had looked askance on his +appointment, the year before. He was told that William would himself +remain a loyalist when the break came with Great Britain, and he was +compelled to believe that there was serious ground for the charge. He +decided, however, to make a supreme effort to rouse the Governor to +the call of patriotism. Accordingly, in 1775, he sought the Palace and +pleaded with William to forsake his Tory associates, turn his back on +the king who had turned his back on the Colonies, and become a +steadfast defender of his country's rights. + +What a subject that interview would make for an artist! Opposed to the +luxury-loving governor, in the house furnished for his satisfaction by +the Tories with whom he had chosen to ally himself, was the sturdy +figure of the sage of Pennsylvania, who was ready to lay down his life +in the defence of his country. + +It must have been a stirring interview. But it was fruitless. Benjamin +Franklin went back to Philadelphia a disappointed man. His feelings +were expressed in the letter in which he said, "I am deserted by my +only son." + +Within a year Governor Franklin was practically a prisoner in the +Palace, in consequence of the discovery that he was plotting against +the Colonies. When he persisted in courses that troubled Congress, he +was arrested and taken to Burlington. Mrs. Franklin fled to New York, +and the Palace was at the mercy of the British. On several occasions +the house was used as headquarters by British generals, and soldiers +made their encampment on the grounds. + +Though the interior of the Palace was destroyed by fire soon after the +war, the house was restored, and it still looks much as it did when +Franklin, the patriot, stood within its walls. For years it was used +as a hotel, and later as a private residence. In 1883 it was made a +Home for aged ministers of the Presbyterian Church. To-day it is again +used as a hotel. + + +XXV + +THE CHURCH AT CALDWELL, NEW JERSEY + +WITH GLIMPSES OF THE FIGHTING CHAPLAIN CALDWELL + +The trying days of the Revolution would not seem to be a favorable +time for the beginning of a church, especially in the section of New +Jersey which was so often overrun by the soldiers of both armies. Yet +it was at this critical time that many of the people of Horseneck (now +Caldwell), New Jersey, near Montclair, were looking forward to the +organization of a church and the building of a house of worship. +Timbers were in fact drawn and framed for church purposes, but the war +interfered with the completion of the project. + +The donation, in 1779, of ninety acres of wild land in the centre of +the settlement gave the prospective congregation new heart. On this +land a parsonage was begun in 1782. The upper portion of this house, +unplastered and unceiled, was used for church purposes until 1796. + +The final organization of the church dates from December 3, 1784, when +forty persons signed their names to the following curious agreement: + + "We Whose Names are Under writen Living at the Place called + Horse Neck, Being this Day to be Formed or Embodied as a + Church of _Jesus Christ_, Do Solemnly Declare that as we do + desire to be founded Only on the Rock Christ Jesus, So we + would not wish to Build on this foundation, Wood Hay and + Stubble, but Gold and Silver and Precious Stones; and as it + is our profested Sentiments that a Visible Church of Christ, + Consists of Visible Believers with their Children, so no + Adult Persons ought to be Admitted as members but such as + Credibly profess True Faith in Jesus Christ, Love, Obedience, + and Subjection to Him, Holding the Fundamental Doctrines of + the Gospel, and who will Solemnly Enter into Covenant to Walk + Worthy such an Holy Profession as we do this Day." + +The last survivor of those who signed this document was General +William Gould, who died February 12, 1847, in his ninetieth year. +During the Revolution he saw much active service, especially at the +battles of Springfield and Monmouth and the campaigns that preceded +and followed these conflicts. + +But the connection of the church with the Revolution came rather +through Rev. James Caldwell, who was pastor of the First Presbyterian +Church of Elizabeth Town. During the early years of the struggling +congregation he was their adviser and helper, and after his death the +name of the church was changed to Caldwell, in his honor. + +Mr. Caldwell--who had among his parishioners in Elizabeth Town William +Livingston, the Governor of the State, Elias Boudinot, Commissary +General of Prisons and President of Congress, Abraham Clark, one of +the signers of the Declaration of Independence, as well as more than +forty commissioned officers of the Continental Army--was one of the +famous chaplains of the war, having been chosen in 1776 chaplain of +the regiment largely made up of his own members. Later he was +Assistant Commissary General. + +The British called him the "Fighting Chaplain," and he was cordially +hated because of his zeal for the cause of the patriots. His life was +always in danger, and when he was able to spend a Sunday with his +congregation he would preach with his cavalry pistols on the pulpit, +while sentinels were stationed at the doors to give warning. + +The enmity of the British led to the burning of the chaplain's church, +and the murder, a few months later, of Mrs. Caldwell. While she was +sitting in a rear room at the house at Connecticutt Farms, where she +had been sent for safety, surrounded by her children, a soldier thrust +his musket through the window and fired at her. + +Mr. Caldwell survived the war, in spite of the efforts of the British +to capture him, only to be murdered on November 24, 1781, by a +Continental soldier who was thought to have been bribed by those whose +enmity the chaplain had earned during the conflict. + +The Elizabeth Town congregation succeeded in rebuilding their church +five years after it was destroyed, but the delayed Caldwell church +building was not ready for its occupants until 1795. The timbers for +the church were hewed in the forest where the trees were felled and +were drawn by oxen to the site selected. Forty men worked several days +to raise the frame. Lime was made from sea shells, which were hauled +from Bergen, and then burned in a kiln erected near the church lot. + +The interior of the building was plain. The pulpit, "about the size of +a hogshead," was built on a single pillar, against the wall; above +this was a sounding board. The windows had neither blinds nor +curtains, and nothing was painted but the pulpit. The backs of the +pews were exactly perpendicular. Provision was made regularly for the +purchase of sand to freshen the floors. This building was burned in +1872. + +The first pastor, Rev. Stephen Grover, received as salary one hundred +and fifty dollars a year, though this sum was to be increased ten +dollars a year until the total was two hundred and fifty dollars. Of +course the use of the parsonage and land was given in addition. + +Mr. Grover was pastor for forty-six years, and his successor was Rev. +Richard F. Cleveland, to whose son, born in the old manse at +Caldwell,--which was purchased in 1912 by the Grover Cleveland +Birthplace Memorial Association,--was given the name Stephen Grover, +in memory of the first pastor of the church. Forty-seven years later +Stephen Grover Cleveland became President of the United States. + +For the first ten months of its history the Caldwell church was +Presbyterian, then it became Congregational, but since 1831 it has +been a Presbyterian body. + + + [Illustration: OLD TENNENT CHURCH, FREEHOLD, N. J. + _Photo by Hall's Studio, Freehold_ + See page 122] + +XXVI + +OLD TENNENT CHURCH, FREEHOLD, NEW JERSEY + +ON THE BATTLE FIELD OF MONMOUTH + +One of the bas-reliefs on the monument commemorating the decisive +Battle of Monmouth, which has been called the turning-point of the War +for Independence, represents the famous Molly Pitcher as she took the +place at the gun of her disabled husband. In the background of the +relief is the roof and steeple of Old Tennent, the church near which +the battle raged all day long. + +Tennent Presbyterian Church was organized about 1692. The first +building was probably built of logs. The second structure, more +ambitious, was planned in 1730. Twenty years later a third structure +was demanded by the growing congregation. This building, which was +twenty-seven years old at the time of the battle of Monmouth, is still +standing. + +The plan called for a building sixty feet long and forty feet wide. +The present pastor of the church, Rev. Frank R. Symmes, in his story +of the church, says of the building: + + "The sides were sheathed with long cedar shingles, and + fastened with nails patiently wrought out on an anvil, and + the interior was finished with beaded and panelled Jersey + pine.... The pulpit ... is placed on the north side of the + room, against the wall, with narrow stairs leading up to it, + closed in with a door. The Bible desk is nine feet above the + audience floor, with a great sounding board overhanging the + whole.... Below the main pulpit a second desk or sub-pulpit + is built, where the precentor used to stand.... The galleries + extend along three sides of the room." + +Among the early pastors of the church were Rev. John Tennent and his +brother, Rev. William Tennent, members of a family famous in the early +history of the Presbyterian Church in New Jersey. In consequence of +their forty-seven years of service the church became known as "Old +Tennent." + +The story of the marriage of Rev. William Tennent is a tradition in +the congregation. In spite of his salary of about one hundred pounds, +and the use of the parsonage farm, he became financially embarrassed. +A friend from New York who visited him when he was thirty-three years +old told him he ought to marry and suggested a widow of his +acquaintance. Mr. Tennent agreed to the proposition that he go to New +York in company with his friend, and see if matters could not be +arranged. So, before noon next day, he was introduced to Mrs. Noble. +"He was much pleased with her appearance," the story goes on, "and +when left alone with her, abruptly told her that he supposed her +brother had informed her of his errand; that neither his time nor his +inclination would suffer him to use much ceremony, but that if she +approved ... he would return on Monday, be married, and immediately +take her home." Thus in one week she found herself mistress of his +house. She proved a most invaluable treasure to him. + +The year after the death of Mr. Tennent, on Sunday, June 28, 1778, +General Washington, at the head of about six thousand men, hurried by +Old Tennent. That morning he had been at Englishtown where the sound of +cannon told him his advance forces under General Lee were battling with +the British. Washington was about one hundred yards beyond the church +door when he met the first straggler who told him that Lee had +retreated before the British. A little further on the Commander-in-chief +met Lee. After rebuking him sharply he hastened forward, and rallied +the retreating Continentals. The renewed battle continued until +evening when the British were driven back to a defensive position. +During the night they retired, to the surprise of Washington, who +hoped to renew the battle in the morning. The victory snatched from +defeat in this, one of the most stubbornly contested and longest +battles of the war, gave new courage to the Colonies. + +During the battle wounded soldiers were carried to the church, where +members of the congregation tended them, in what could not have been a +very secure refuge, since musket balls pierced the walls. An exhausted +American soldier, while trying to make his way to the building, sat +for rest on the grave of Sarah Mattison. While he was there a cannon +ball wounded him and broke off a piece of the headstone. Watchers +carried him into the church where he was laid on one of the pews. The +stains of blood are still to be seen on the board seat, while the +marks of his hands were visible on the book-rest of the pew until the +wood was grained. + +A tablet has been placed on the front wall of the church with this +message: + + 1778-1901 + In Grateful Remembrance + of Patriots Who, on Sabbath June 28, 1778, + Gained the Victory Which Was the Turning Point + Of the War for Independence, + And to Mark a Memorable Spot on + The Battlefield of Monmouth, + This Tablet is placed by Monmouth Chapter + Daughters of the American Revolution + September 26, 1901. + +Not far from the church is the monument commemorating the battle +itself. Spirited bronze reliefs on this tell the story of some of the +picturesque incidents of the memorable struggle. + + +XXVII + +THE FORD MANSION, MORRISTOWN, NEW JERSEY + +FROM WHICH ALEXANDER HAMILTON WENT COURTING + +New Jersey, which was the scene of so many battles during the +Revolution, was also the scene of what was perhaps Washington's +pleasantest winter during the war. From December, 1799, to June, 1780, +the Commander-in-chief lived at the Ford Mansion with his "family," as +he was fond of calling Mrs. Washington and his aides. + +During these months he was busily engaged in making plans for the +later successful conduct of the war, yet he took time for those social +relaxations which were a needed relief from the anxious strain of the +long conflict. + +Among those who helped to make that winter memorable were Surgeon +General John Cochrane and Mrs. Cochrane, who occupied the Campfield +House close by, and General and Mrs. Philip Schuyler, who had come +down from Albany for a season at headquarters. Mrs. Schuyler and Mrs. +Cochrane were sisters. Elizabeth Schuyler had come in advance of her +parents, and for a time was a guest at the Campfield House. + +Visitors from France were arriving from time to time, bringing word of +the alliance that was to mean so much to the Colonies, and conferring +as to methods of cooperation. + +In one wing of the Ford Mansion lived Mrs. Ford and her son Timothy. +In the rooms set apart for the use of Washington's family eighteen +people were crowded. Two of these were Alexander Hamilton and Tench +Tilghman, both members of the General's staff. + +Though Mrs. Washington delighted to put on style, on occasion, she +could also be plain and simple. There had been times during the war +when she was not ashamed to drive to headquarters in a coach and four. +But sometimes at Morristown she was in a different mood--as, for +instance, one day when a number of the ladies of the neighborhood, +dressed in their best, called to pay their respects to her. To their +surprise they found her sitting in a speckled apron, knitting +stockings. If they were ill at ease at first, their state of mind can +be imagined when their hostess began to talk to them of the need of +care in their expenditures for their country's sake. After telling +them of a dress she had made out of the carefully unravelled +upholstery of a set of chairs, she completed their consternation by +saying: + + "American ladies should be patterns of industry to their + countrywomen, because the separation from the mother-country + will dry up the source whence many of our comforts have been + derived. We must become independent by our determination to + do without what we cannot make ourselves. While our husbands + and brothers are examples of patriotism, we must be examples + of thrift and economy." + +The coming of Elizabeth Schuyler to the Campfield House was the signal +for a spirited contest for her favor between two of Washington's +aides. Both Hamilton and Tilghman had met her at her father's house in +Albany, and both called on her. But Hamilton soon distanced his +comrade in the race for her favor. It was not long until everybody was +watching developments. Both of the young people were favorites. It is +related that even a young soldier on sentry duty late one night was +persuaded to a breach of military rules by his interest in Hamilton's +courtship. That night the lover was on his way home after spending an +evening with his Betsey. Evidently the young man had been thinking of +anything but the countersign, for when he was halted and asked to give +the countersign words he cudgelled his brain in vain. Then he +whispered to the sentry, "Tell me!" And the sentry did tell. Whereupon +Hamilton drew himself up before the soldier, gravely gave the +countersign, and passed on to his quarters. + +There was no time for long courtship in those days of quick movements +in military circles. So, before long, Hamilton was writing to +Elizabeth Schuyler such cheering letters as the following: + + "I would not have you imagine, Miss, that I write you so + often to gratify your wishes or please your vanity, but + merely to indulge myself, and to comply with that restless + property of my mind which will not be happy unless I am doing + something, in which you are concerned. This may seem a very + idle disposition in a philosopher and a soldier; but I can + plead illustrious examples in my justification. Achilles + liked to have sacrificed Greece and his glory for a female + captive; and Anthony lost the world for a woman. I am very + sorry times are so changed as to oblige me to go to antiquity + for my apology, but I confess to the disgrace of the present + that I have not been able to find as many who are as far gone + as myself in their laudable zeal of the fair sex. I suspect, + however, that if others knew the charms of my sweetheart as + well as I do, I should have a great number of competitors. I + wish I could give you an idea of her. You have no conception + of how sweet a girl she is. It is only in my heart that her + image is truly drawn. She has a comely form, and a mind still + more lovely; she is all goodness, the gentlest, the dearest, + the tenderest of her sex. Oh, Betsey, how I love her!" + +Who could withstand such a lover? Elizabeth Schuyler did not, and her +father commended her judgment. For he wrote to Hamilton: + + "You cannot, my dear sir, be more happy at the connexion you + have made with my family than I am. Until the child of a + parent has made a judicious choice, his heart is in critical + anxiety; but this anxiety was removed the moment I discovered + on whom she had placed her affection. I am pleased with every + instance of delicacy in those who are dear to me; and I think + I read your soul on that occasion you mention. I shall + therefore only entreat you to consider me as one who wishes + in every way to promote your happiness, and I shall." + +The young people were married at the Schuyler homestead in Albany on +December 14, 1780. + +To-day the Ford Mansion where Hamilton dreamed of a conquest in which +the British had no part is owned by the Washington Association of New +Jersey, and is open to visitors. The Campfield House is to be found on +a side street; it has been moved from its original site. + + + [Illustration: NASSAU HALL AND THE FIRST PRESIDENT'S HOUSE, + _Photo by R. H. Rose and Son, Princeton_ PRINCETON, N. J. + See page 130] + +XXVIII + +NASSAU HALL, PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY + +WHERE THE CONGRESS OF 1783 MET FOR FIVE MONTHS + +Where the College of New Jersey, as Princeton University was +officially known until 1896, erected its first building at Princeton, +the far-sighted trustees arranged what was long ago the largest stone +structure in the Colonies. The records of early travellers on the road +between Philadelphia and New York tell of their amazement at the +wonderful building. + +In 1756 the college abandoned its rooms in the First Presbyterian +Church of Newark, New Jersey, and occupied the ambitious quarters in +Princeton, which had cost about L2,900. + +Originally the halls extended from end to end of Nassau Hall, a +distance of one hundred and seventy-five feet. These long, brick-paved +halls afforded students inclined to mischief wonderful opportunity to +make life miserable for the tutors who were charged with their +oversight. "Rolling heated cannon balls, to tempt zealous but unwary +tutors, was a perennial joy," writes Varnum Lansing Collins, in his +book, "Princeton." Then he adds the statement that at a later epoch +there were wild scenes, "when a jackass or a calf was dragged +rebelliously up the narrow iron staircase, to be pitted in frenzied +races with the model locomotive purloined from the college museum." + +There was no provision for lighting the long halls, so the rollicking +students were accustomed to fix candles to the walls with handfuls of +mud. When a tutor was heard approaching, the candles would be blown +out and he would be foiled in his attempt to identify the offenders. +Sometimes barricades of cordwood were built hastily on the stairs or +across the entrance to one of the halls. + +In vain the authorities tried to correct these abuses by the passage +of strict regulations. "No jumping or hollowing or any boisterous +Noise shall be suffered, nor walking in the gallery in the time of +Study," was a regulation which could be made known far more easily +than it could be enforced. Lest there be breaches of decorum inside +the rooms, tutors were directed to make at least three trips a day to +the quarters of the students, to see that they were "diligent at the +proper Business." They were to announce their coming to a room "by a +stamp, which signal no scholar shall imitate on penalty of five +shillings." Should the occupant of the room refuse to open the door, +the tutor had authority to break in. At a later date, students in +Nassau Hall liked to have double doors to their rooms, so that the +obnoxious tutor might be hindered in his efforts to force an entrance, +long enough to give them opportunity to hide all evidence of +wrongdoing. + +In 1760 a code of "orders and customs" was issued by the authority of +President Aaron Burr. One of the most astounding directions in this +code was that "Every Freshman sent on an errand shall go and do it +faithfully and make quick return." Other rules, as indicated in Mr. +Collins' book, concerned deportment, and demanded constant deference +to superiors. "Students are to keep their hats off 'about ten rods to +the President and about five to the tutors;' they must 'rise up and +make obeisance' when the President enters or leaves the prayer hall, +and when he mounts into the pulpit on Sundays. When walking with a +superior, an inferior 'shall give him the highest place.' When first +coming into the presence of a superior, or speaking to him, inferiors +'shall respect by pulling their Hats;' if overtaking or meeting a +superior on the stairs, he 'shall stop, giving him the banister side;' +when entering a superior's, 'or even an equal's' room, they must +knock; if called or spoken to by a superior, they must 'give a direct, +pertinent answer concluding with sir;' they are to treat strangers and +townspeople 'with all proper complaisance and good manners;' and they +are forbidden to address any one by a nickname." + +Evidently rules like these helped to make good patriots, for Princeton +students were among the most sturdy adherents of the Colonists' cause. +In September, 1770, the entire graduating class wore American cloth, +as a protest against Great Britain's unjust taxation measures. + +In January, 1774, the students broke into the college storeroom and +carried the winter's supply of tea to a bonfire in front of Nassau +Hall. While the tea burned the college bell tolled and the +students--in the words written home to a parent by one of them--made +"many spirited resolves." + +The spirited students were jubilant on the evening of July 9, 1776, +when the news of the Declaration of Independence was read in +Princeton. Nassau Hall was illuminated and the whole town rejoiced +that President Witherspoon, as a member of the Continental Congress, +had been a signer of the document. + +In November, 1776, the students who had not enlisted in the army were +sent from the town just in time to escape the British, who took +possession of the building and used it as barracks and hospital. Early +in the morning of January 3, 1777, the British held the building. +After the battle Washington's troops took possession, but abandoned it +almost at once. At evening the British were once more in control. Soon +they hurried on to New Brunswick. The next occupants were the soldiers +of General Putnam, who found room here for a hospital, a barracks, and +a military prison. They found that during the battle of Princeton a +round shot had struck the portrait of George II in the prayer hall. + +After the British left Princeton College classes were continued in the +President's house, and it was 1782 before a serious attempt was made +to reoccupy Nassau Hall, which was found to be "mostly bare partition +walls and heaps of fallen plaster." + +A year later, when temporary repairs had been made, the Continental +Congress, which had been besieged by a company of troops who were +insistent in their demands for overdue pay, made its way to Princeton. +From June to November the sessions were held in Nassau Hall. +Commencement day came during the sessions and Congress sat, with +Washington, on the platform. On that occasion Washington gave fifty +pounds to the college. This sum was paid to Charles Wilson Peale for a +portrait of the donor, which was placed in the frame from which the +portrait of George II had been shot more than seven years before. + +Congress was still in session at Nassau Hall when, in October, the +first authentic news came of the signing of the Definitive Treaty of +Peace with Great Britain. + +A few weeks later the college was left to its sedate ways. Never +since then has it witnessed such stirring events. But the experiences +of the years from 1776 to 1784 had made Nassau Hall one of the +nation's picturesque monuments. + + + [Illustration: MORVEN, PRINCETON, N. J. + _Photo by R. H. Rose and Son, Princeton_ + See page 134] + +XXIX + +THREE HISTORIC HOUSES AT PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY + +MORVEN, THE MERCER HOUSE, AND WASHINGTON'S ROCKY HILL HEADQUARTERS + + "Sollemnity & Distress appeared almost on every countenance, + several students that had come 5 & 600 miles & just got + letters in college were now obliged under every disadvantage + to retire with their effects, or leave them behind, which + several through the impossibility of getting a carriage at so + Confused a time were glad to do, & lose them all, as all + hopes of continuing longer in peace at Nassau were now taken + away I began to look out for some place where I might pursue + my studies & as Mr. G. Johnson had spoke to me to teach his + son I accordingly went there & agreed to stay with him till + spring." + +So wrote John Clark, one of the students at the College of New Jersey, +who, in 1776, was dismayed by the threatened approach of Cornwallis +and his army. He was able to remove his effects in ample time, for he +had only a "Trunk & Desk." But there were others in the peaceful +village who were not so fortunate. One of them was Mrs. Richard +Stockton of Morven, a beautiful home still standing not far from the +college campus. The activity of her husband in the interests of the +Colonies had angered the British, and they were not slow to take +advantage of the absence of the family by pillaging the mansion and +destroying many things it contained. Fortunately Mrs. Stockton, before +leaving hurriedly for Freehold, had buried the family silver, and this +was not discovered, though Cornwallis and his officers occupied the +house as headquarters. + +Probably, while they were here, they talked gleefully of what they +called the collapse of the war. They felt so sure that the war was +over that Cornwallis was already planning to return to England. + +Then came the surprise at Trenton, when nearly a thousand Hessians of +a total force of twelve hundred were captured. + +Immediately Cornwallis, who had returned to New York, hastened back to +Princeton, where he left three regiments and a company of cavalry. +Then he hurried on to Trenton. On the way he was harassed by +Washington's outposts, and the main force of the General delayed his +entrance into the town until nightfall. He expected to renew the +attack next morning, but during the night Washington stole away toward +Princeton. Within two miles of Princeton the force of General Mercer +encountered the reserve troops of Cornwallis, which were on their way +to their commander's assistance. Washington, hearing the sound of the +conflict that followed, hastened to the field in time to rally the +forces of Mercer, who had been wounded. The day was saved, but General +Mercer was lost; he died in the farmhouse on the battle field to which +he was carried. To this day visitors are shown the stain made on the +floor by the blood of the dying man. Those who express doubt as to +the stain are not welcomed. + +Alfred Noyes has written of this conflict which meant more to the +struggling Colonies than some historians have indicated. The reference +in the first line of the second stanza is to the tigers that crouch at +the entrance of Nassau Hall in Princeton: + + _"Here Freedom stood by slaughtered friend and foe, + And, ere the wrath paled or that sunset died, + Looked through the ages; then, with eyes aglow, + Laid them to wait that future, side by side._ + + * * * * * + + "The dark bronze tigers crouch on either side + Where redcoats used to pass; + And round the bird-loved house where Mercer died, + And violets dusk the grass, + By Stony Brook that ran so red of old, + But sings of friendship now, + To feed the old enemy's harvest fifty-fold + The green earth takes the plow. + + "Through this May night, if one great ghost should stray + With deep remembering eyes, + Where that old meadow of battle smiles away + Its blood-stained memories, + If Washington should walk, where friend and foe + Sleep and forget the past, + Be sure his unquenched heart would leap to know + Their souls are linked at last." + +After the battle came happier days for Princeton. Morven was restored, +and Washington was frequently an honored guest within the walls, as +have been many of his successors in the White House. + +More than six years after the memorable battle of Princeton, another +house in the neighborhood received him. When Congress convened in +Nassau Hall, it rented for Washington the Rocky Hill House, five miles +from the village, which was occupied by John Berrian, Associate +Justice of the Supreme Court of New Jersey. This house, which was +suitably furnished for the General, was the last headquarters of the +Revolution. + +While at the Berrian house, Washington sat to William Dunlap for his +portrait. In his "Arts of Design" the artist, who at the time of which +he wrote was eighteen years old, said: + + "My visits are now frequent to headquarters. The only + military in the neighborhood were the general's suite and a + corporal's guard whose tents were on the green before the + Berrian House, and the captain's marquee nearly in front. The + soldiers were New England yeomen's sons, none older than + twenty.... I was quite at home in every respect at + headquarters; to breakfast and dine day after day with the + general and Mrs. Washington and members of Congress." + +It was Washington's custom to ride to Princeton, mounted on a small +roan horse. The saddle was "old and crooked, with a short deep blue +saddle cloth flowered, with buff cloth at the edge, buckskin seat, the +cloth most below the skirt of the saddle at the side, double skirts, +crupper, surcingle, and breast straps, double belted steel bridle and +plated stirrup." + +The real closing scene in the Revolution was Washington's farewell +address to the army, which he wrote in the southwest room of the +second story. On Sunday, November 2, from the second-story balcony, he +read this to the soldiers. Two days later orders of discharge were +issued to most of them. + +Fortunately the Berrian House has become the property of "The +Washington Headquarters Association of Rocky Hill," and is open to the +patriotic pilgrim. + + +XXX + +THE SPRINGFIELD MEETING HOUSE, NEW JERSEY + +WHOSE PSALM BOOKS FURNISHED WADDING FOR THE CONTINENTAL GUNS + +"One pint of spring water when demanded on the premises" was the +strange payment stipulated by the donor of one hundred acres of land +given in 1751 to the trustees of the First Presbyterian Church in +Springfield, New Jersey, to be for the use of the minister of the +parish. The church records do not state that the rent has been paid +regularly, but they do state that the woodland enabled them for many +years to furnish the free firewood that was a part of the support +promised to every one of the early pastors. + +The first building occupied by the church was completed in 1746. +Fifteen years later the second building was first occupied, and it +continued to be the centre of the community's religious life until +November, 1778, when it was needed for military stores. The church was +gladly given up to the army, and services were held in the garret of +the parsonage. + +The British under General Knyphausen, determined to drive Washington +and his men from the New Jersey hills and to destroy his supplies, +marched from Elizabeth Town on June 23, 1780. There were five thousand +men, with fifteen or twenty pieces of artillery, in the expedition. A +few miles away, near Springfield, was a small company of patriots, +poorly equipped but ready to die in the defence of their country. + +Warning of the approach of the enemy was given to the Continentals by +the firing of the eighteen-pounder signal gun on Prospect Hill; twelve +Continentals stationed at the Cross Roads, after firing on the enemy, +had hurried to the hill. After firing the gun they lighted the tar +barrel on the signal pole. + +Instantly the members of the militia dropped their scythes, seized +their muskets, and hurried to quarters. "There were no feathers in +their caps, no gilt buttons on their home-spun coats, nor flashing +bayonets on their old fowling pieces," the pastor of Springfield +church said in 1880, on the one hundredth anniversary of the skirmish +that followed, "but there was in their hearts the resolute purpose to +defend their homes and their liberty at the price of their lives." + +The sturdy farmers joined forces with the regular soldiers. For a time +the battle was fierce. The enemy were soon compelled to retreat, but +not before they had burned the village, including the church. Chaplain +James Caldwell was in the hottest of the fight. "Seeing the fire of +one of the companies slacking for want of wadding, he galloped to the +Presbyterian meeting house nearby, and rushing in, ran from pew to +pew, filling his arms with hymn books," wrote Headley, in "Chaplains +and Clergy of the Revolution." "Hastening back with them into the +battle, he scattered them about in every direction, saying as he +pitched one here and another there, 'Now put Watts into them, boys.' +With a laugh and a cheer they pulled out the leaves, and ramming home +the charge did give the British Watts with a will." + +The story has been attractively told by Bret Harte: + + "... Stay one moment; you've heard + Of Caldwell, the parson, who once preached the Word + Down at Springfield? What, no? Come--that's bad; why, he had + All the Jerseys aflame! And they gave him the name + Of the 'rebel high priest.' He stuck in their gorge, + For he loved the Lord God--and he hated King George! + + "He had cause, you might say! When the Hessians that day + Marched up with Knyphausen, they stopped on their way + At the 'farm,' where his wife, with a child in her arms, + Sat alone in the house. How it happened none knew + But God--and that one of the hireling crew + Who fired the shot! Enough!--there she lay, + And Caldwell, the chaplain, her husband, away! + + "Did he preach--did he pray? Think of him as you stand + By the old church to-day--think of him and his band + Of military ploughboys! See the smoke and the heat + Of that reckless advance, of that straggling retreat! + Keep the ghost of that wife, foully slain, in your view-- + And what could you, what should you, what would you do? + + "Why, just what he did! They were left in the lurch + For the want of more wadding. He ran to the church, + Broke down the door, stripped the pews, and dashed out in the road + With his arms full of hymn-books, and threw down his load + At their feet! Then above all the shouting and shots + Rang his voice, 'Put Watts into 'em! Boys, give 'em + Watts.' + + "And they did. That is all. Grasses spring, flowers blow + Pretty much as they did ninety-three years ago. + You may dig anywhere and you'll turn up a ball-- + But not always a hero like this--and that's all." + +The battle of Springfield is not named among the important battles of +the Revolution, but it had a special meaning to the people of all that +region, for it taught them that the enemy, who had been harassing them +for months, was not invulnerable. From that day they took fresh +courage, and their courage increased when they realized that the +British would not come again to trouble them. + +After the burning of the Springfield church, the pastor, Rev. Jacob +Vanarsdal, gathered his people in the barn of the parsonage. Later the +building was ceiled and galleries were built. + +For ten years the barn was the home of the congregation, but in 1791 +the building was erected which is in use to-day. + + + + +FOUR: RAMBLES ABOUT THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE + + _In that delightful land which is washed by the Delaware's waters, + Guarding in sylvan shades the name of Penn the apostle, + Stands on the banks of its beautiful stream the city he founded. + There all the air is balm, and the peach is the emblem of beauty, + And the streets still re-echo the names of the trees of the forest, + As if they fain would appease the Dryads whose haunts they molested. + There from the troubled sea had Evangeline landed, an exile, + Finding among the children of Penn a home and a country. + There old Rene Leblanc had died; and when he departed, + Saw at his side only one of all his hundred descendants. + Something at least there was in the friendly streets of the city, + Something that spake to her heart, and made her no longer a stranger; + And her ear was pleased with the Thee and Thou of the Quakers, + For it recalled the past, the old Acadian country, + Where all men were equal, and all were brothers and sisters._ + + HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW. + + + + +FOUR: RAMBLES ABOUT THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE + + + [Illustration: LETITIA PENN HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 145] + +XXXI + +THE LETITIA PENN HOUSE, PHILADELPHIA + +WILLIAM PENN'S FIRST AMERICAN HOME + +When William Penn, English Quaker, met Guli Springett, he fell in love +with her at once. In 1672 they were married. + +Ten years later when, as Proprietor of Pennsylvania, Penn was about to +sail in the _Welcome_ for America, he wrote a letter of which the +following is a portion: + + "My dear wife and children, my love, which neither sea, nor + land, nor death itself, can extinguish or lessen toward you, + most tenderly visits you with eternal embraces and will abide + with you for ever.... My dear wife, remember thou wast the + love of my youth and the joy of my life, the most beloved as + well as the most worthy of all my earthly comfort, and the + reason of that love were more thy inward than thy outward + excellencies, which were yet many. God knows, and thou + knowest it, that it was a match of Providence's making, and + God's image in us both was the first thing and the most + amiable and engaging ornament in our eyes. Now I am to leave + thee, and that without knowing whether I shall ever see thee + more in this world." + +Penn landed at New Castle, Delaware, in October, 1682. He had already +sent forward the plot of his new country village; his cousin, +Lieutenant Governor Markham, had come to America in 1681, bringing +with him instructions for the beginning of the settlement. On this +plot there was evidence of his thought for his wife and his daughter +Letitia; two lots were set apart for the family, on one of which he +planned to build, while the other he designed for Letitia. + +When he reached America, he found that, by some mistake, Letitia's lot +had been given to the Friends for a meeting house. He was vexed, but +nothing could be done. So he decided that the lot reserved for his own +use should be made over to her. He did not carry out his purpose for +some time, however. + +For a time Penn remained at Upland (now Chester), but in 1684, he went +to Philadelphia to oversee the erection of the houses for the +settlers. His own house he built on a large plot facing the Delaware +River and south of what is now Market Street. The house was of brick, +which was probably made nearby, though many of the interior fittings +had been brought from England in the _John and Sarah_ in 1681. It was +the first brick house in the new settlement, the first house which had +a cellar, and was built in accordance with the request the Proprietor +had made: + + "Let every house be placed, if the person pleases, in the + middle of the plat, as to breadth way of it, that so there + may be ground on each side for garden or orchard, or fields, + that it may be a green country town, which will never be + burnt and always wholesome." + +For a few months the Quaker kept bachelor's hall in his new house. +Then he went to England, intending to return before long. Before his +departure he arranged that the house should be used in the public +service. Probably it was the gathering place for the Provincial +Council for many years. Thus it was the first state house of +Pennsylvania. + +During the fourteen years' stay in England many misfortunes came to +Penn. He was accused of treason, and his title to the American lands +was taken away from him. Later he was acquitted, and his lands were +returned. + +In 1692 Guli Penn died, and in 1696 Penn married Hannah Callowhill. In +1699, when he returned to America, he brought with him his wife and +Letitia, who was then about twenty-five years old. + +Evidently the old house was not good enough for the ladies of the +family. At any rate they occupied for a time the "slate-roof house," +one of the most pretentious buildings in the Colony. When the manor, +Pennsbury, twenty miles up the Delaware, was completed, the family was +taken there. Great style was maintained at the country estate in the +woods. The house had cost L5,000, and was "the most imposing house +between the Hudson and Potomac rivers." + +The Philadelphia house was transferred to Letitia on "the 29th of the +1st month 1701." At once extravagant Letitia tried to dispose of it. +She succeeded in selling a portion of the generous lot, but it was +some years before she was able to sell the whole. + +In the meantime the Proprietor felt that he must return to England +because of the threat of Parliament to change the government of the +American Colonies. Mrs. Penn and Letitia, who did not like America, +pleaded to go with him. He thought he would be returning soon, and he +urged them to remain. They insisted. In a letter to James Logan he +wrote: "I cannot prevail on my wife to stay, and still less with +_Tish_. I know not what to do." Later he wrote: "The going of my wife +and Tish will add greatly to the expense.... But they will not be +denied." + +In 1702 Letitia married William Aubrey, who had all of Penn's keenness +and none of his genial qualities. Almost from the day of the marriage +both husband and wife pestered Penn for money. Aubrey insisted on a +prompt payment of his wife's marriage portion. His father-in-law was +already beginning to feel the grip of financial embarrassment that +later brought him to the verge of bankruptcy, but, on this occasion as +well as later, he felt compelled to yield to the insistent demands of +the grasping Aubrey. + +The only members of the Penn family who ever returned to America were +the children of the second wife, to whom most of the property +descended. + +The Letitia Penn House, as it came to be known, fell on evil days. It +was an eating house in 1800, and in 1824 it was the Rising Sun Inn. +Later it was called the Woolpack Hotel. + +In 1882 funds were raised by public subscription, and the venerable +house was taken down and rebuilt in Fairmount Park. Visitors who enter +the city by the Pennsylvania Railroad from New York City may easily +see it from a right-hand car window, for it is the only house in the +corner of the park on the west side of the river. + + +XXXII + +CARPENTERS' HALL, PHILADELPHIA + +CALLED BY BENSON J. LOSSING "THE TEMPLE OF FREEDOM" + +Philadelphia was but forty-two years old when a number of builders in +the growing town decided to have a guild like the journeymen's guilds +of London. Accordingly they formed, in 1724, "The Carpenters' Company +of the City and County of Philadelphia," whose object should be "to +obtain instruction in the science of architecture; to assist such of +the members, or the widows and children of members, as should be by +accident in need of support," as well as "the adoption of such a +system of measurements and prices that every one concerned in a +building may have the value of his money, and every workman the worth +of his labor." + +At first the meetings were held here and there, probably in taverns. +In 1768 the Company decided to build a home. A lot was secured on +Chestnut Street, between Third and Fourth streets, for which an annual +ground rent of "176 Spanish milled pieces of eight" was to be paid. +The sum of three hundred pounds necessary to begin operations was +subscribed in about a week. + +The Company's annual meeting of January 21, 1771, was held within the +walls, though the building was not entirely completed until 1792. + +Three years after the opening of the hall came the first event that +linked the building with the history of America. A general meeting of +the people of Philadelphia was held here to protest against the +failure of Governor Penn to convene the Assembly of the Colony. A +committee of three was appointed to wait on the Speaker and ask him +for "a positive answer as to whether he would call the Assembly +together or not." + +The Assembly was then called to meet on the "18th day of the 6th +month." Three days before the time fixed, another meeting was held in +Carpenters' Hall to consider what measures for the welfare of the +Colony should be proposed to the Assembly. At this meeting the +necessity of holding "a general Congress of delegates from all the +Colonies" was voiced. Later the Assembly approved of the idea of such +a conference, and a call was issued. + +On September 5, 1774, the delegates from eleven provinces met in the +City Tavern. Learning that the Carpenters' Company had offered the +hall for the use of the Continental Congress, the delegates voted to +inspect the accommodations. John Adams, one of their number, said +after the visit: "They took a view of the room and of the chamber, +where there is an excellent library. There is also a long entry, where +gentlemen may walk, and also a convenient chamber opposite to the +library. The general cry was that this was a good room." + +When this First Continental Congress met, it was decided that the +session of the second day should be opened with prayer. Rev. Jacob +Duche of Christ Church and St. Peter's was asked to be present and +conduct an opening service. This historic account of the service was +written by John Adams: + + "Next morning he appeared with his clerk and having on his + pontificals, and read several prayers in the established + form, and then read the Psalter for the seventh day of + September, which was the thirty-fifth Psalm. You must + remember that this was the next morning after we had heard of + the horrible cannonade of Boston (the account proved to be an + error). It seemed as if heaven had ordered that Psalm to be + read on that morning. After this, Mr. Duche, unexpectedly to + everybody, struck out into extemporary prayer, which filled + the bosom of every man present. I must confess, I never heard + a better prayer, or one so well pronounced." + +In part, this prayer was as follows: + + "Be thou present, O God of wisdom! And direct the councils of + this honorable assembly, enable them to settle things on the + best and surest foundation, that the scene of blood may be + speedily closed, that order, harmony, and peace may be + effectually restored, and truth and justice, religion and + piety, prevail and flourish amongst Thy people." + +On October 26 the Congress was dissolved. The second Congress was +called to meet on May 10, 1775, at the State House, later known as +Independence Hall. + +When the British took possession of the city in 1777, a portion of the +army was quartered in the building. Officers and men alike borrowed +books from the Library Company of Philadelphia, which had quarters +here, invariably making deposits and paying for the use of volumes +taken in strict accordance with the rules. + +In 1778 the United States Commissary of Military Stores began to +occupy the lower story and cellar of the building. From 1791 to 1821 +various public organizations sought quarters here, including the Bank +of the United States, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the United States Land +Office, and the United States Custom House. The Carpenters' Company +therefore, in 1791, erected a second building on this lot, which they +occupied until 1857. + +When Benson J. Lossing visited the historic hall, on November 27, +1848, he wrote of his great disappointment because the banner of an +auctioneer was on the front of the building. He said: + + "I tried hard to perceive the apparition ... to be a classic + frieze, with rich historic trigliphs, but it would not do.... + What a desecration! Covering the facade of the very Temple of + Freedom with the placards of grovelling Mammon! If + sensibility is shocked with this outward pollution, it is + overwhelmed with indignant shame on entering the hall where + that august Assembly of men--the godfathers of our + Republic--convened to stand as sponsors at the baptism of + infant American liberty--to find it filled with every species + of merchandise, and the walls which once echoed the eloquent + words of Henry, Lee, and the Adamses, reverberating with the + clatter of the auctioneer's voice and hammer. Is there not + patriotism strong enough in Philadelphia to enter the temple, + and 'cast out all them that buy and sell, and overthrow the + tables of the money-changers?'" + +At length the Carpenters' Company decided that the time had come to do +what the historian pleaded for. In 1857 they returned to the building, +and since then they have held their meetings within the walls +consecrated by the heroes of Revolutionary days. The rooms were +restored to their original condition, and relics and mementoes of +early days were put in place. The Hall has ever since been open to +visitors "who may wish to visit the spot where Henry, Hancock, and +Adams inspired the delegates of the Colonies with nerve and the sinew +for the toils of war." + + + [Illustration: ST. PETER'S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 153] + +XXXIII + +ST. PETER'S CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA + +WHOSE BUILDING IS PRACTICALLY UNCHANGED AFTER MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED +AND FIFTY YEARS + +There were but fifteen thousand people in Philadelphia when, on March +19, 1753, the suggestion was made to the vestry of Christ Church that +a new church or Chapel of Ease of Christ Church be built for the +accommodation of the people in the southern part of the city. Thomas +and Richard Penn gave a site for the building of the new church, and +on September 21, 1758, the corner stone was laid. In 1761 the church +was opened, though it was not completed until March, 1763. To the new +organization was given the name St. Peter's, and it was ordered by the +vestry of Christ Church, "that the said church ... in every respect +whatever shall be upon an equal footing with Christ Church, and be +under the same government with it." + +At the same time, in view of the gift of the site, it was ordered that +"the first and best pew in the said Church shall be set apart forever +for the accommodation of the Honorable Proprietary's family." + +When the building was completed the building committee reported that +the cost was L4,765, 19 s. 6-1/2 d. Added to this report were statements +that sound quite modern. "The sudden rise in the prices of materials +and labor," and "the inability of some subscribers to meet their +engagements," had added to the burdens of the committee. + +From the beginning prayers were read in the church for the king and +all the royal family, but on July 4, 1776, the vestry ordered that +patriotic prayers be substituted. While the British were in +Philadelphia the prayers for the king were renewed by order of Dr. +Duche, rector of Christ Church and St. Peter's. The official history +of St. Peter's refers to Dr. Duche, who ordered this, in the following +sentences: + + "From an advocate of the Colonies, he became an advocate of + the King, and on the Sunday following the occupation of + Philadelphia by the British, he restored the prayers for the + King to the Liturgy. This compromise with conditions availed + him nothing, and he was arrested for serving as chaplain to + Congress after the adoption of the Declaration of + Independence. The influence of his loyalist friends secured + his speedy release.... Not long afterward he went to England, + where he remained practically an exile for twelve years, + returning to Philadelphia several years before his death, + when, it is said, no truer American could have been found in + the City. He ... was buried in St. Peter's Churchyard." + +During the occupation of the church by British troops in 1777 the pews +were burned for fuel, but the building was never closed for lack of +fuel or for any other reason, until the late winter of 1917-18, when +coal could not be secured. + +The wooden fence that surrounded the property originally was burned by +the British for fuel, and the brick wall that is now in place was +built in 1784. + +Washington frequently occupied a pew in St. Peter's, and many other +men who were prominent in the early history of the country worshipped +here. The building is practically as it was when they lived. "It is +the same church to which the colonists in their knee-breeches and rich +coats came to attend the first service in 1761," a member of the +vestry said in 1891. "The pulpit, reading desk, and chancel rails were +built in 1764, and the present organ loft was put up over the chancel +in 1789. In all other respects the plain, austere interior of this old +church ... remains unchanged, the only relic in Pennsylvania, and one +of the very few in the country at large, of the church in colonial +days. Bishop De Lancey, in his centennial sermon, preached September +4, 1861, said: 'We enter by the same doors--we tread the same +aisles--we kneel where they knelt--we sit where they sat; the voice of +prayer, instruction, and praise ascends from the same desk from which +it reached their ears, in the privacy and seclusion of the same high, +strait unostentatious pews.'" + +In the crowded churchyard are the graves of many colonial worthies as +well as many leaders in the early history of America. Stephen Decatur +is buried here, and Charles Wilson Peale, who painted a famous +portrait of Washington. + +The _Pennsylvania Evening Post_ of January 18, 1777, told of the +burial of one of the patriots whose bodies were laid here: + + "Yesterday the remains of Captain William Shippen, who was + killed at Princeton the third instant, gloriously fighting + for the liberty of his country, were interred in St. Peter's + Churchyard. His funeral was attended by the Council of + Safety, the members of Assembly, officers of the army, a + troop of Virginia light horse, and a great number of + inhabitants. This brave and unfortunate man was in his + twenty-seventh year, and has left a widow and three children + to lament the death of an affectionate husband and a tender + parent, his servants a kind master, and his neighbors a + sincere and obliging friend." + +Captain Shippen, before joining Washington's army, was captain of the +privateer _Hancock_, which, between July 1 and November 1, 1776, sent +to American ports ten prizes captured at sea. + + + [Illustration: CLIVEDEN, PHILADELPHIA + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 156] + +XXXIV + +CLIVEDEN, GERMANTOWN, PHILADELPHIA + +ON THE FIELD OF THE BATTLE OF GERMANTOWN + +In the days before the Revolution there were many residents of +Philadelphia who had, in addition to a sumptuous town house, a country +house, to which they could resort in the summer or at other times when +they wished relief from the cares of daily life. Germantown, the +straggling village five miles from the town of William Penn, was one +of the popular places for such establishments. + +Samuel Chew's town house was at Front and Dock streets when he built +Cliveden at Germantown in 1761. At that time he was Attorney-General +of Pennsylvania, though in 1774 he became Chief-Justice of the Supreme +Court of Pennsylvania. + +Both in Philadelphia and in Germantown he maintained the hospitable +traditions he had learned at Maidstone, near Annapolis, where he was +born, in 1722, of a family whose first American ancestor, John Chew, +came to Virginia a century earlier. + +During the days of the Continental Congress Judge Chew seemed to +sympathize with the colonists in their protests against the aggression +of Great Britain, but when independence was proposed, he let it be +known that he was unwilling to act with the patriots. Accordingly he +was arrested by order of Congress, together with John Penn, and when +he refused to sign a parole, he was banished from the State. + +During his absence the battle of Germantown was fought. On October 3, +1777, the British forces were disposed on nearly all sides of the Chew +mansion. Washington planned to attack these scattered forces by four +columns, which were to advance from as many directions. General +Wayne's column successfully opened the attack at daybreak October 4, +driving before him the enemy encountered at Mount Airy. Colonel +Musgrave checked the retreat of the soldiers at Cliveden. With six +companies he took possession of the mansion, prepared to defend +themselves behind hastily barricaded doors and windows. Wayne and the +leaders who were with him pushed on past the house, continuing the +pursuit of that portion of the enemy which had continued its retreat; +he did not know that he was leaving an enemy in his rear. When +Washington came to Cliveden, he was surprised by the fire of the +entrenched enemy. After a hasty conference with others, it was decided +not to pass on, leaving a fortress behind. Cannon were planted so as +to command the door, but they were fired without much effect. + +The next attempt was made by a young Frenchman who asked others to +carry hay from the barn and set fire to the front door. Thinking they +were doing as he asked, he forced open a window and climbed on the +sill. From this position he was driven back, and he found that he had +not been supported by those on whom he had counted. + +In the meantime the artillery fire continued, but with little effect. +General Wilkinson, who was present, afterward wrote: + + "The doors and shutters of the lower windows of the mansion + were shut and fastened, the fire of the enemy being delivered + from the iron gratings of the cellars and the windows above, + and it was closely beset on all sides with small-arms and + artillery, as is manifest from the multiplicity of traces + still visible from musket-ball and grape-shot on the interior + walls and ceilings which appear to have entered through the + doors and windows in every direction; marks of cannon-ball + are also visible, in several places on the exterior of the + wall and through the roof, though one ball only appears to + have penetrated below the roof, and that by a window in the + passage of the second story. The artillery seem to have made + no impression on the walls of the house, a few slight + indentures only being observable, except from one stroke in + the rear, which started the wall." + +In a few minutes Washington, realizing that precious time was being +lost in the attack on the thick walls of the house, ordered a regiment +to remain behind to watch Cliveden, while his main force hastened on. + +It has been claimed that this brief delay was responsible for the +defeat at Germantown. Wilkinson, on the contrary, insists that this +delay saved Washington's army from annihilation, since he would +otherwise have hurried on in the thick fog until he was in contact +with the main body of the British army. The result, he thinks, would +have been a far greater disaster than actually overtook the American +arms that day. + +The damage done to the house was so great that five carpenters were +busy for months making repairs. Evidently Judge Chew was not satisfied +with the result, for in 1779 he sold Cliveden for $9,000, only to buy +it back again in 1787 for $25,000. + +The property descended to Benjamin Chew, Jr., on the death of his +father. During his occupancy of Cliveden, Lafayette was a guest there +in 1825. + + + [Illustration: THIRD (OLD PINE STREET) PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, + PHILADELPHIA + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 159] + +XXXV + +OLD PINE STREET CHURCH, PHILADELPHIA + +WHOSE PASTOR INSPIRED JOHN ADAMS TO PLEAD FOR INDEPENDENCE + +There were four thousand, seven hundred and seventy-four houses in +Philadelphia in 1767 when the Pine Street Presbyterian Church, the +third church of this denomination in the city, was built. The +subscription paper, still in existence, shows that L1,078 "in money or +otherwise" was subscribed for the purpose. The sum needed to complete +the building was raised by a lottery, which yielded L2,500. In the +proceeds of the lottery the Market Street Church and the Second Church +shared, L1,035 going to the Pine Street building. + +The original building was of but one story, with gable ends. When +alterations were made in 1837 the top of the church was raised bodily, +while a larger roof was built over the old roof. The visitor who +climbs to the loft is able to see the old walls and windows. The +floor was raised one step above the street level, and was paved with +brick. + +Rev. George Duffield, D.D., who was pastor from 1772 to 1790, was a +prominent figure during the Revolution. He was chaplain of the +Continental Congress and of the Pennsylvania militia during the period +of the war, and he delivered fiery messages that stirred patriots to +action. John Adams, who was a member of the church, called him a man +of genius and eloquence. On May 17, 1776, after listening to a sermon +in which Dr. Duffield likened the conduct of George III to the +Americans to that of Pharaoh to the Israelites, and concluded that God +intended the liberation of the Americans, as He had intended that of +the Israelites, he wrote to his wife: + + "Is it not a saying of Moses, Who am I that I should go in + and out before this great people? When I consider the great + events which are passed, and those greater which are rapidly + advancing, and that I may have been instrumental in touching + some springs, and turning some small wheels, which have had + and will have such effects, I feel an awe upon my mind, which + is not easily described. Great Britain has at last driven + America to the last step, complete separation from her; a + total, absolute independence...." + +Headley, in "Chaplains and Clergy of the Revolution," says: + + "The patriots of the first Congress flocked to his church, + and John Adams and his compeers were often his hearers.... In + a discourse delivered before several companies of the + Pennsylvania militia and members of Congress, four months + before the Declaration of Independence, he took bold and + decided ground in favor of that step, and pleaded his + cause with sublime eloquence, which afterwards made him so + obnoxious to the British that they placed a reward of fifty + pounds for his capture." + +Later on in the same sermon he prophesied: + + "Whilst sun and moon endure, America shall remain a city of + refuge for the whole earth, until she herself shall play the + tyrant, forget her destiny, disgrace her freedom, and provoke + her God." + +As chaplain of the Pennsylvania militia, Dr. Duffield was frequently +in camp, where "his visits were always welcome, for the soldiers loved +the eloquent, earnest, fearless patriot." + +Headley gives this incident of the courageous chaplain's work: + + "When the enemy occupied Staten Island, and the American + forces were across the river on the Jersey shore, he repaired + to camp to spend the Sabbath. Assembling a portion of the + troops in an orchard, he climbed into the forks of a tree and + commenced religious exercises. He gave out a hymn.... The + British on the island heard the sound of the singing, and + immediately directed some cannon to play on the orchard, from + whence it proceeded. Soon the heavy shot came crashing + through the branches, and went singing overhead, arresting + for a moment the voices that were lifted in worship. Mr. + Duffield ... proposed that they should adjourn behind an + adjacent hillock. They did so, and continued their worship, + while the iron storm hurled harmlessly overhead." + +In spite of his almost constant service in the field, Dr. Duffield was +in Philadelphia among his people every little while. The church +records show that he baptized children every month during the +Revolution, except for the period of the British occupation of +Philadelphia, when the church was occupied as a hospital, and more +than one hundred Hessian soldiers were buried in the churchyard. + +Another remarkable fact is that of the one hundred and ten men who had +signed the call to George Duffield in 1771, sixty-seven served in the +army during the war. Colonel Thomas Robinson, whose portrait is in +Independence Hall, was a member of the church; Captain John Steele, +who was field officer on the day of the surrender of Cornwallis, and +Colonel William Linnard, whose company attempted to keep the British +from crossing the Brandywine, were also members. Many other officers +and private soldiers were on the rolls; the stones and vaults in the +cemetery tell of many of them. + +One of the original trustees of Pine Street was Dr. William Shippen, +Jr., first Professor of Medicine in America and Director General of +all the hospitals during the war. Benjamin Rush, Signer of the +Declaration, was an attendant at the services, and his mother was a +member. + + +XXXVI + +INDEPENDENCE HALL, PHILADELPHIA + +WHERE AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE WAS BORN + +William Penn was a man of vision. When, in 1682, Thomas Holme surveyed +for him the site of Philadelphia, the Quaker pioneer gave instruction +that "the Centre Square," one mile from the Delaware, be set apart +for the public buildings of the city and colony. + +But for many years after the founding of the city, Centre Square was +far out in the country. During these years temporary public buildings +were provided for official meetings, including the Assembly, but in +1728 steps were taken to erect a suitable public building within reach +of the people of the young city. Ground was bought on Chestnut Street, +between Fifth and Sixth streets, and the State House was begun in +1730. The total cost of the building was $16,250. Two wings were added +in 1739 and 1740; these cost some $12,000 more. + +Two years after the completion of the main building the Pennsylvania +Assembly passed an act in which this statement was made: + + "It is the true intent and meaning of these Presents, that no + part of the said ground lying to the southward of the State + House, as it is now built, be converted into or made use of + for erecting any sort of Building thereupon, but that the + said ground shall be enclosed and remain a public open Green + and Walks forever." + +Eighty years after the passage of the act an attempt was made to +divert the State House yard to other purposes. In a curious old +document, dated February 6, 1816, W. Rawle and Peter S. Duponceau made +an argument against this diversion, showing conclusively that the +State House Square had been "irrevocably devoted to the purpose of an +open and public walk." Thanks to their efforts and the efforts of +others who have labored to the same end, the grounds are to-day, and +must forever remain, open to the use of the people. + +The first public function held in the new State House was a banquet, +given in the "long room," in the second story. Of this Franklin's +_Pennsylvania Gazette_ of September 30, 1736, said: + + "Thursday last William Allen, Esq., Mayor of this city for + the past year, made a feast for his citizens at the State + House, to which all the strangers in town of note were also + invited. Those who are judges of such things say that + considering the delicacy of the viands, the variety and + excellency of the wines, the great number of guests, and yet + the easiness and order with which the whole was conducted, it + was the most grand, the most elegant entertainment that has + been made in these parts of America." + +The builders were dilatory. It was 1736 before the Assembly was able +to hold its first session in the chamber provided for it, and not +until 1745 was the room completed. Three years more passed before the +apartment intended for the Governor's Council was ready for its +occupants. + +In 1741 the tower was built, and on November 4 Edmund Wooley sent to +the Province of Pennsylvania an interesting bill, "for expenses in +raising the Tower of the State House": + + 95 loaves of Bread L0 19 9 + 61-3/3 lb. Bacon, at 7d 1 14 1 + 148-1/2 lb. Beef at 3-1/2d 2 8 1 + Potatoes and Greens 0 7 1 + 800 Limes at 4s 1 12 0 + 1-1/2 Barrels of Beer at 18s 1 7 0 + 44 lb. Mutton at 3-1/2d 0 12 8 + 37-3/4 lb. Veal at 3-1/2d 0 11 0 + 30 lb. Venison at 2d 0 5 0 + Turnips 0 1 6 + Pepper and Mustard 0 1 5 + 2 Jugs and Candles, Pipes and Tobacco 0 6 0 + Butter 9s. 8d. Turkey 4s. 4 pair Fowls 9s 1 2 8 + -1/4 of a hundred of Flour 0 3 6 + Two former Hookings at getting on two + Floors, and now for raising the Tower, 3 0 0 + Fire Wood, etc. + +Provision was made in 1750 for the extension of the tower for the +accommodation of a bell, and on October 16, 1751, the Superintendent +of the State House sent a letter to the colonial agent in London. In +this letter he said: + + "We take the liberty to apply ourselves to thee to get us a + good bell, of about two thousand pounds weight, the cost of + which we presume may amount to about one hundred pounds + sterling, or, perhaps, with the charges, something more.... + Let the bell be cast by the best workmen, and examined + carefully before it is shipped, with the following words + well-shaped in large letters round it, viz:-- + + "'By order of the Assembly of the Province of Pennsylvania, + for the State House in the city of Philadelphia, 1752,' + + "And underneath, + + "'Proclaim Liberty throughout all the land to all the + inhabitants thereof--Levit. XXV. 10.'" + +When the new bell was hung it was cracked by a stroke of the clapper. +Isaac Norris wrote: + + "We concluded to send it back by Captain Budden, but he could + not take it on board, upon which two ingenious workmen + undertook to cast it here, and I am just now informed they + have this day opened the Mould and have got a good bell, + which, I confess, pleases me very much, that we should first + venture upon and succeed in the greatest bell cast, for aught + I know, in English America. The mould was finished in a very + masterly manner, and the letters, I am told, are better than + [on] the old one. When we broke up the metal, our judges here + generally agreed it was too high and brittle, and cast + several little bells out of it to try the sound and strength, + and fixed upon a mixture of an ounce and a half of copper to + one pound of the old bell, and in this proportion we now have + it." + +But when the bell was in place it was found to contain too much +copper, and Pass & Stow, the founders, "were so teazed with the +witticisms of the town," that they begged to be allowed to recast it. +In June, 1753, this third bell was hung, and in the following +September the founders were paid L60 13s. 5d. + +In 1752 arrangements were made for a clock. The works were placed in +the middle of the main building, immediately under the roof. These +were connected by rods, enclosed in pipes, with the hands on the dial +plates at either gable. Early views of the State House show these +dials. The cost of the clock, which included care for six years, was +L494 5s. 5-1/2 d. + +During the twenty years that followed the installation of the clock +and the bell the State House became a civic centre of note; but not +until the stirring events that led up to the Revolution did it become +of special interest to other colonies than Pennsylvania. On April 25, +1775, the day after news came to Philadelphia of the battles of +Lexington and Concord, the great bell sounded a call to arms that was +the real beginning of making the building a national shrine. In +response to the call eight thousand people gathered in the Yard to +consider measures of defence. On April 26 the newspapers reported that +"the company unanimously agreed to associate for the purpose of +defending with arms their lives, liberty, and property, against all +attempts to deprive them of them." This determination of the people +was soon sanctioned by the Assembly, and Pennsylvania prepared to +raise its quota towards the Army of the Revolution. + +On May 10, 1775, the Second Continental Congress met in the Assembly +Chamber, and took action that made inevitable the adoption of the +Declaration of Independence the next year. On Friday, June 7, 1776, in +the Eastern Room on the first floor of the State House, Richard Henry +Lee of Virginia introduced the following: + + "Resolved, That these United Colonies are, and of right ought + to be, free and independent States, that they are absolved + from all allegiance to the British Crown and that all + political connection between them and the State of Great + Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved." + +At the same time the Pennsylvania Assembly was considering, in the +chamber upstairs, what instruction to give to its delegates. When the +Assembly adjourned the Continental Congress removed to the upper room. +There, on July 2, the Virginian's motion was carried. Later the +Declaration itself was adopted, and on July 4, it was + + "Resolved, that Copies of the Declaration be sent to the + several assemblies, conventions, and committees or councils + of safety, and to the several commanding officers of the + Continental troops; that it be proclaimed in each of the + United States and at the head of the army." + +It was ordered that the Declaration be proclaimed from the State House +on Monday, July 8, 1776. On that day the State House bell sounded its +glad call; for the first time did it indeed "proclaim liberty +throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof." And in the +hearing of those who gathered in response to its call the Declaration +was read. + +From that day the State House has been known as Independence Hall, +while the State House Yard has become Independence Square. + +The sittings of Congress in Independence Hall were interrupted by the +approach of the British. For five months the building was used as a +British prison and hospital. But on July 2, 1778, Congress returned; +the building once more belonged to the nation. + +The building became more than ever a national shrine when, in 1787, +the Constitutional Convention met there. On September 17, 1787, the +votes of eleven States were recorded in favor of the Constitution, and +Benjamin Franklin, looking toward a sun which was blazoned on the +President's chair, said of it to those near him, "In the vicissitudes +of hope and fear I was not able to tell whether it was rising or +setting; now I know that it is the rising sun." + +In 1790, the Congress of the United States met in the western portion +of the buildings on the Square, erected in 1785 for the Pennsylvania +Assembly.[1] This building was, by that body, offered to Congress and +accepted for the term of ten years, until the Capital should be +removed to the shore of the Potomac. + +During these ten years, and for thirty-five years more, the Liberty +Bell continued to sound notes of joy and of sorrow. On July 8, 1835, +it was tolling for Chief Justice Marshall. When the funeral procession +was on Chestnut Street, not far from Independence Hall, the bell +cracked. Since that day it has been mute. + +The passing years have brought many changes to Independence Hall, as +well as to the Liberty Bell. The bell cannot be renewed, but the +historic building and the Square have been restored until they present +essentially the appearance of the days of 1776. The chief difference +is in the steeple. The present steeple was built in 1828. It is much +like the old steeple, but a story higher. + +As the visitor passes from room to room of the venerable building, and +examines the relics and studies the portraits of the great men who +gathered there so long ago, his heart is stirred to thankfulness to +those who dared to call a nation into being, and he cannot but think +that it is good to live for one's country. + + + [Illustration: DAVID RITTENHOUSE'S HOUSE, NORRITON, PENNA. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 170] + +XXXVII + +THE DAVID RITTENHOUSE HOME, NEAR PHILADELPHIA + +THE HEADQUARTERS OF BENJAMIN FRANKLIN'S FRIEND AND CO-LABORER + + _"See the sage Rittenhouse with ardent eye + Lift the long tube and pierce the starry sky! + He marks what laws the eccentric wanderers bind, + Copies creation in his forming mind, + And bids beneath his hand in semblance rise + With mimic orbs the labors of the skies."_ + +This was Barlow's way of telling of the achievement of David +Rittenhouse, the colonial astronomer, in fashioning the marvellous +orrery, the mechanical representation of the movements of the +planetary system. Thomas Jefferson's prose description was a little +more readable: + + "A machine far surpassing in ingenuity of contrivance, + accuracy and utility anything of the kind ever before + constructed.... He has not indeed made a world, but he has by + imitation approached more its Maker than any man who has + lived from the creation to this day." + +The father of the maker of the orrery was a paper manufacturer near +Germantown, but when David was three years old he moved to a little +farm in Norriton, nineteen miles from Philadelphia, where, in 1749, he +built the stone house in which his son spent the rest of his life. + +It was his purpose to make a farmer of David, and he might have +succeeded if he had not invested in a few mathematical books. The +twelve-year-old boy was fascinated by these volumes. Samuel W. +Pennypacker has told the result: + + "The handles of his plough, and even the fences around the + fields, he covered with mathematical calculations.... At + seventeen he made a wooden clock, and afterward one in metal. + Having thus tested his ability in an art in which he had + never received any instruction, he secured from his somewhat + reluctant father money enough to buy in Philadelphia the + necessary tools, and after holding a shop by the roadside, + set up in business as a clock and mathematical instrument + maker." + +Dr. Benjamin Rush once said that "without library, friends, or +society, and with but two or three books, he became, before he had +reached his four-and-twentieth year, the rival of two of the greatest +mathematicians of Europe." + +The skilled astronomer was soon called upon to render a service to +several of the Colonies. By means of astronomical instruments he did +such accurate work in marking out the boundary between Delaware and +Pennsylvania that Mason and Dixon later accepted his results, and he +settled the dispute between New Jersey and New York as to the point +where the forty-first degree of latitude touches the Hudson River. +Perhaps, however, the achievement that won for him greatest fame was +the observation, made in 1769, of the transit of Venus. The importance +of the observation is evident from the facts that it provides the best +means for calculating the distance between the heavenly bodies, which +had never been satisfactorily made, and that the opportunity would +not occur again for one hundred and five years. After months of +preparation, which included the making of delicate instruments, +Rittenhouse, one of a committee of three appointed by the American +Philosophical Society, succeeded. In the words of Pennypacker, "The +first approximately accurate results in the measurement of the spheres +were given to the world, not by the schooled and salaried astronomers +who watched from the magnificent royal observatories of Europe, but by +unpaid amateurs and devotees to science in the youthful province of +Pennsylvania." + +Benjamin Franklin found in him a kindred spirit, and the Philadelphian +was frequently a visitor at the Norriton farmhouse. On Sunday the two +friends often went to the old Norriton Presbyterian Church, which had +been built on the corner of the Rittenhouse farm, within sight of the +house. This church, which probably dates from 1698, is still standing +in good repair. + +Some years after the successful observation of the transit of Venus +brought fame to the American astronomer, he moved to Philadelphia. +There, among other duties, he had charge of the State House clock. + +At the beginning of the Revolution the Council of Safety asked that he +should "prepare moulds for the casting of clock weights, and send them +to some iron furnace, and order a sufficient number to be immediately +made for the purpose of exchanging them with the inhabitants of this +city for their leaden clock weights." The leaden weights were needed +for bullets. Later he was sent to survey the shores of the Delaware, +to choose the best points for fortifications. + +When he became Engineer of the Council of Safety "he was called upon +to arrange for casting cannon of iron and brass, to view the site for +the erection of a Continental powder mill, to conduct experiments for +rifling cannon and muskets, to fix upon a method of fastening a chain +for the protection of the river, to superintend the manufacture of +saltpeter, and to locate a magazine for military stores on the +Wissahickon." + +This was but the beginning of service to Pennsylvania during the +Revolution. His activities were so valuable to the Colonies that a +Tory poet published in the _Pennsylvania Evening Post_ of December 2, +1777, a verse addressed "To David Rittenhouse," of which the first +stanza read: + + "Meddle not with state affairs, + Keep acquaintance with the stars; + Science, David, is thy line; + Warp not Nature's great design. + If thou to fame would'st rise." + +The following year Thomas Jefferson wrote to him: + + "You should consider that the world has but one Rittenhouse, + and never had one before.... Are those powers, then, which, + being intended for the erudition of the world, are, like + light and air, the world's common property, to be taken from + their proper pursuit to do the commonplace drudgery of + governing a single State?" + +To the call of the nation Rittenhouse responded in April, 1792, when +President Washington appointed him the first Director of the Mint. + +His closing years were full of honors, but his strength was declining +rapidly; he had spent himself so fully for his country that his power +of resistance was small. Just before he died, on June 26, 1796, he +said to a friend who had been writing to him, "You make the way to God +easier." + + +XXXVIII + +THE HEADQUARTERS AT VALLEY FORGE, PENNSYLVANIA + +WHERE WASHINGTON LIVED DURING THE WINTER OF 1777-78 + +A few rods from the beautiful Schuylkill River, at Valley Forge, +Pennsylvania, twenty-four miles from Philadelphia, is the quaint stone +house where Washington spent nearly six months of the most trying year +of the Revolution. + +While the British troops were occupying Philadelphia Congress was in +session at York, Pennsylvania. Valley Forge was accordingly a +strategic location, for from here it was comparatively simple to guard +the roads leading out of Philadelphia, and to prevent both the exit of +the British and the entrance of supplies designed for the enemy. + +The eleven thousand men who marched to the site selected for the camp +were miserably equipped for a winter in the open. Provisions were +scarce, and clothing and shoes were even more scarce. But the men +looked forward bravely to the months of exposure before them. + +Washington did everything possible to provide for their comfort. +Realizing that the soldiers needed something more than the tents in +which they were living at first, he gave orders that huts should be +built for them. The commanding officers of the regiments were +instructed to divide their soldiers into parties of twelve, to see +that each party had the necessary tools, and to superintend the +building of a hut for each group of twelve soldiers, according to +carefully stated dimensions. A reward was offered to the party in each +regiment which should complete its hut in the quickest and best +manner. Since valuable time would be lost in preparing boards for the +roofs, he promised a second sword to the officer or soldier who should +devise a material for this purpose cheaper and more quickly made than +boards. + +Some of the first huts were covered with leaves, but it was necessary +to provide a more lasting covering. After a few weeks fairly +acceptable quarters were provided for the men, in spite of the +scarcity of tools. Colonel Pickering, on January 5, wrote to Mrs. +Pickering, "The huts are very warm and comfortable, being very good +log huts, pointed with clay, and the roof made tight with the same." + +At first, Washington sought to encourage his soldiers by assuring them +that he would accept no better quarters than could be given them; he +would set the example by passing the winter in a hut. But officers and +men alike urged that it would be unwise to risk his health in this +way, and he consented to seek quarters in a near-by house. However, he +refused to make himself comfortable until the men were provided for. + +His headquarters were finally fixed in the two-story stone house of +Isaac Potts. There he met his officers, received visitors, planned for +the welfare of the army, and parried the attacks of those who could +not understand the difficulties of the situation. Once he wrote to +Congress: "Three days successively we have been destitute of bread. +Two days we have been entirely without meat. The men must be supplied, +or they cannot be commanded." + +To the objections of those who thought that the army should not be +inactive during the winter weather, he wrote: + + "I can assure these gentlemen, that it is a much easier and + less distressing thing to draw remonstrances in a comfortable + room by a good fireside, than to occupy a cold, bleak hill, + and sleep under frost and snow, without clothes or blankets. + However, although they seem to have little pity for the naked + and distressed soldiers, I feel superabundantly for them, + and, from my soul, I pity those miseries which it is neither + in my power to relieve or prevent." + +The heavy hearts of Washington and his officers rejoiced when, on +February 23, 1778, Baron Steuben and Peter S. Du Ponceau called at +headquarters. Du Ponceau wrote later: + + "I cannot describe the impression that the first sight of + that great man made upon me. I could not keep my eyes from + that imposing countenance--grave, yet not severe; affable, + without familiarity.... I have never seen a picture that + represents him to me as I saw him at Valley Forge.... I had + frequent opportunities of seeing him, as it was my duty to + accompany the Baron when he dined with him, which was + sometimes twice or thrice in the same week. We visited him + also in the evening, when Mrs. Washington was at + head-quarters. We were in a manner domesticated in the + family." + +An order was sent from headquarters, dated March 28, that Baron +Steuben be respected and obeyed as Inspector General. The need of his +services is revealed by his description of the condition of the army +when he arrived in camp: + + "The arms at Valley Forge were in a horrible condition, + covered with rust, half of them without bayonets, many from + which a single shot could not be fired. The pouches were + quite as bad as the arms. A great many of the men had tin + boxes instead of pouches, others had cow-horns; and muskets, + carbines, fowling-pieces, and rifles were to be seen in the + same company.... The men were literally naked.... The + officers who had coats, had them of every color and make. I + saw officers, at a grand parade in Valley Forge, mounting + guard in a sort of dressing-gown, made of an old blanket or + woolen bed-cover...." + +Mrs. Washington joined the circle at headquarters on February 10. She +was not favorably impressed. "The General's apartment is very small," +she wrote. "He has had a log cabin built to dine in, which has made +our quarters much more tolerable than they were at first." + +The most joyful day at Valley Forge was May 7, 1778, when a fete was +held to celebrate the conclusion of the treaty of alliance between +France and the United States. After religious service, the army was +reviewed, and Washington dined in public with his officers. "When the +General took his leave, there was a universal clap, with loud huzzas, +which continued till he had proceeded a quarter of a mile." + +On June 18 the glad tidings came to headquarters that the British were +evacuating Philadelphia. Next day the camp was left behind. +Washington did not see it again for nine years. + +In 1879 the Isaac Potts house was bought by the Continental Memorial +Association of Valley Forge. And in 1893 the Pennsylvania Legislature +created the Valley Forge Park Commission, which has since acquired the +entire encampment, has laid it out as a park, and has arranged for the +erection of many monuments and markers and a number of memorial +structures. But the house in which Washington lived must always be the +central feature of the grounds. + + + [Illustration: DAWESFIELD, NEAR PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. + _Photo by H. C. Howland, Philadelphia_ + See page 178] + +XXXIX + +THREE HEADQUARTERS OF WASHINGTON + +PENNYPACKER'S MILLS, DAWESFIELD, AND EMLEN HOUSE, NEAR PHILADELPHIA + +During the closing months of 1777, one of the darkest times of the +Revolution, Washington made famous by his occupancy three houses, all +located within a few miles of Philadelphia. The first of these, +Pennypacker's Mills, is the only building used by the Commander-in-Chief +during the war that is still in the hands of the family that owned it +when he was there. + +Pennypacker's Mills is delightfully situated in the angle formed by +the union of the two forks of the Perkiomen, the largest tributary of +the Schuylkill. Hans Joest Heijt, who built the grist mill and house +on the land in 1720, sold the property in 1730 to John Pauling. He was +succeeded in 1757 by Peter Pannebecker. His son Samuel was the +owner of the house by the creek when, on September 26, 1777, +Washington reached the Mills. + +The orderly book of the following days and letters written from the +house shed light on the events of the stay here. + +On the day he reached the Mills, Washington wrote to William Henry at +Lancaster: + + "You are hereby authorized to impress all the Blankets, + Shoes, Stockings, and other Articles of Clothing that can be + spared by the Inhabitants of the County of Lancaster, for the + Use of the Continental Army, paying for the same at + reasonable Rates or giving Certificates." + +The entry in the orderly book on September 28 read: + + "The Commander-in-Chief has the happiness again to + congratulate the army on the success of the Americans to the + Northward. On the 19th inst. an engagement took place between + General Burgoyne's army and the left wing of ours, under + General Gates. The battle began at 10 o'clock, and lasted + till night--our troops fighting with the greatest bravery, + not giving an inch of ground.... To celebrate this success + the General orders that at 4 o'clock this afternoon all the + troops be paraded and served with a gill of rum per man, and + that at the same time there be discharges of 13 pieces of + artillery from the park." + +On the same day there was a council of war. It was found that there +were in camp, fit for duty, 5,472 men. The whole army in all the camps +then contained about eight thousand Continental troops and three +thousand militia. + +Next day Washington wrote: + + "I shall move the Army four or five miles lower down to-day + from whence we may reconnoitre and fix upon a proper + situation, at such distance from the Enemy, as will entitle + us to make an attack, should we see a proper opening, or + stand upon the defensive till we obtain further + reinforcements...." + +Later in the day the army marched to Skippack, within about +twenty-five miles of Philadelphia. The next stage in the advance was +Methacton Hill, and from there the army began to move, on October 3, +at seven o'clock in the evening, to the attack on the British at +Germantown. + +After the battle of Germantown Washington wrote to the President of +Congress: + + "In the midst of the most promising appearances, when + everything gave the most flattering hopes of victory, the + troops began suddenly to retreat, and entirely left the + field, in spite of every effort that could be made to rally + them." + +The Commander's marvellous ability to handle men was shown by the +entry made in his orderly book the next day, when he was back at +Pennypacker's Mills. Instead of reprimanding the soldiers for their +strange retreat, he "returned thanks to the generals and other +officers and men concerned in the attack on the enemy's left wing, for +their spirit and bravery, shown in drawing the enemy from field to +field, and although ... they finally retreated, they nevertheless see +that the enemy is not proof against a vigorous attack, and may be put +to flight when boldly pursued." + +The good results of this message were evident from the letter of a +soldier written from the Mills on October 6. He said: + + "Our excellent General Washington ... intends soon to try + another bout with them. All our men are in good spirits and I + think grow fonder of fighting the more they have of it." + +To the joy of the soldiers the word was given on October 8 to march +toward Philadelphia. In three short stages the army arrived, on +October 21, at Whitpain, where Washington took up his headquarters in +the house of James Morris, Dawesfield. From here messages were sent +that tied his men still closer to him. On October 24 he issued a +proclamation of full pardon to deserters who should return before a +specified date, and next day he congratulated the troops on the +victory at Red Bank. + +The chief event of the stay at Dawesfield was the court-martial +convened October 30, to try Brigadier-General Wayne, at his own +request, on the charge that his negligence was responsible for the +defeat at Paoli, September 20. The verdict was that "he did everything +that could be expected from an active, brave, and vigilant officer, +under the orders he then had." + + [Illustration: EMLEN HOUSE, NEAR PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 178] + +Three days after the trial the army moved to Whitemarsh, near the +junction of the Skippack and Bethlehem roads. There Washington lived +at Emlen House, of which Lossing says, "At the time of the Revolution +it was a sort of baronial hall in size and character, where its +wealthy owner dispensed hospitality to all who came under its roof." + +The house was modernized in 1854, but it still retains many of the +original features. Among these is the moat at the side of the house. + +Washington followed the example of the owner of the house by welcoming +guests, in spite of the handicaps mentioned in the orderly book on +November 7: + + "Since ... the middle of September last, he [the General] has + been without his baggage, and on that account is unable to + receive company in the manner he could wish. He nevertheless + desires the Generals, Field Officers and Brigadier-Major of + the day, to dine with him in the future, at three o'clock in + the afternoon." + +It was from Emlen House that Washington gave the first intimation that +he knew of the infamous attempts to discredit and displace him which +later became known as the "Conway Cabal." To General Conway himself he +wrote saying that he had heard of Conway's letter to General Gates in +which he had said, "Heaven has been determined to save your country, +or a weak General and bad counsellors would have ruined it." + +A few glimpses of the awful condition of privation that were to +prevail that winter at Valley Forge were given on November 22: + + "The Commander-in-Chief offers a reward of ten dollars to any + person, who shall, by nine o'clock on Monday morning, produce + the best substitute for shoes, made of raw hide." + +The movement to Valley Forge was begun on December 1. The army went by +way of "Sweeds" Ford (Norristown), where, as the quaint diary of +Albigence Waldo says: + + "A Bridge of Waggons made across the Schuylkill last night + consisted of 36 waggons, with a bridge of Rails between each. + Sun Set--We are order'd to march over the River. The Army + were 'till Sun Rise crossing the River--some at the Waggon + Bridge, & some at the Raft Bridge below. Cold and + Uncomfortable." + + +XL + +SWEETBRIER-ON-THE-SCHUYLKILL, PHILADELPHIA + +THE HOME OF THE FATHER OF THE FREE SCHOOLS OF PENNSYLVANIA + +When Samuel Breck was fifty-eight years and six months old--on January +17, 1830--he wrote: + + "My residence has been ... for more than thirty years ... on + an estate belonging to me, situated on the right bank of the + Schuylkill, in the township of Blockley, county of + Philadelphia, and two miles from the western part of the + city. The mansion on this estate I built in 1797. It is a + fine stone house, rough cast, fifty-three feet long, + thirty-eight broad, and three stories high, having + out-buildings of every kind suitable for elegance and + comfort. The prospect consists of the river, animated by its + great trade, carried on in boats of about thirty tons, drawn + by horses; of a beautiful sloping lawn, terminating at that + river, now nearly four hundred yards wide opposite the + portico; of side-screen woods; of gardens, green-house, etc. + Sweetbrier is the name of my villa." + +Mr. Breck spent his boyhood in Boston, but his parents removed to +Philadelphia in 1792 to escape what they felt was an unjust system of +taxation. During the first years of their residence in the city of +William Penn it had "a large society of elegant and fashionable and +stylish people," Mr. Breck said in his diary. "Congress held its +sessions in Philadelphia until the year 1800, and gave to the city the +style and tone of a capital. All the distinguished emigrants from +France took up their abode there." + +Among the associates of the Brecks were some of the leaders of the new +nation. Samuel Breck was frequently at the Robert Morris house, and +later, during the four years' imprisonment of Mr. Morris, he "visited +that great man in the Prune Street debtors' apartment, and saw him in +his ugly whitewashed vault." + +The diarist's comment was bitter: "In Rome or Greece a thousand +statesmen would have honored his mighty services. In a monarchy ... he +would have been appropriately pensioned; in America, Republican +America, not a single voice was raised in Congress or elsewhere in aid +of him or his family." + +There is not a more striking passage in the diaries than that written +on August 27, 1814, during the second war with England: + + "I was in town to-day ... at half past twelve o'clock I went + with an immense crowd to the post-office to hear the news + from the South. The postmaster read it to us from a chamber + window. It imported that the navy-yard had been burnt (valued + at from six to eight millions of dollars) including the new + frigate _Essex_, sloop-of-war _Argus_, some old frigates, a + vast quantity of timber, from five to eight hundred large + guns, and many manufactories of cordage, etc., by our people; + that the President's House, Capitol, and other important + buildings had been destroyed, and all this by a handful of + men, say, six thousand!" + +The diary told also of some interesting experiences at the mansion on +the Schuylkill. In 1807 "a newly invented iron grate calculated for +coal" was installed at Sweetbrier. After less than three weeks' trial +Mr. Breck wrote, "By my experiment in coal fuel I find that one +fireplace will burn from three to three and a half bushels per week in +hard weather and about two and a half in moderate weather. This +averages three bushels for twenty-five weeks, the period of burning +fire in parlors." The coal cost forty-five cents a bushel, and Mr. +Breck decided that wood was a cheaper fuel. + +Even in those early days city families had their troubles with +servants. "This is a crying evil, which most families feel very +sensibly at present," was Mr. Breck's sorrowful statement. Fifteen +years after this entry was written, a bitter complaint was made: + + "In my family, consisting of nine or ten persons, the + greatest abundance is provided; commonly seventy pounds of + fresh butcher's meat, poultry and fish a week, and when I + have company nearly twice as much; the best and kindest + treatment is given to the servants; they are seldom visited + by Mrs. Breck, and then always in a spirit of courtesy; their + wages are the highest going, and uniformly paid to them when + asked for; yet during the last twelve months we have had + seven different cooks and five different waiters.... I pay, + for instance, to my cook one dollar and fifty cents, and + chambermaid one dollar and twenty-five cents per week; to my + gardener eleven dollars per month; to the waiter ten dollars; + to the farm servant ten dollars, etc., etc. Now, if they + remain steady (with meat three times a day) for three or four + years, they can lay by enough to purchase two or three + hundred acres of new land." + +On one occasion, learning that the ship _John_ had arrived from +Amsterdam, Mr. Breck visited it in search of men and women. He wrote: + + "I saw the remains of a very fine cargo, consisting of + healthy, good-looking men, women and children, and I + purchased one German Swiss for Mrs. Ross and two French Swiss + for myself.... I gave for the woman seventy-six dollars, + which is her passage money, with a promise of twenty dollars + at the end of three years, if she serves me faithfully, + clothing and maintenance of course. The boy had paid + twenty-six guilders towards his passage money, which I have + agreed to give him at the end of three years; in addition to + which I paid fifty-three dollars and sixty cents for his + passage, and for two years he is to have six weeks' schooling + each year." + +It was like Mr. Breck to make the provision for schooling. He was an +ardent friend of education in an age when too many were indifferent. +In 1834, when the fortunes of a proposal for free schools in +Pennsylvania were in doubt, he consented to become a member of the +State Senate. There he bent every effort to secure the passage of a +generous provision for common schools. On the first day of the session +he moved successfully for the appointment of a Joint Committee on +Education of the two Houses, "for the purpose of digesting a general +system of education." Of this committee he was made chairman. + +After seven weeks of unremitting labor the bill incorporating the +committee's report, a bill drafted by Mr. Breck, was introduced. In +six weeks more it became a law, four votes only having been cast +against it. Wickersham, in his "History of Education in Pennsylvania," +says that the passage of the bill was "the most important event +connected with education in Pennsylvania--the first great victory for +free schools." + +At the close of the session the author of the bill retired to +Sweetbrier, in accordance with his intention to decline any further +public honors. He felt that his work for the State and the Nation was +done. + + + [Illustration: FATLANDS, NEAR PHOENIXVILLE, PENNA. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 187] + +XLI + +MILL GROVE AND FATLANDS, NEAR PHILADELPHIA + +THE HOMES OF JOHN J. AUDUBON AND OF HIS BRIDE, MARY BAKEWELL + +About two hundred years ago, there lived in France a poor fisherman +named Audubon, who had nineteen daughters and two sons. One of the +sons was sent away to make his fortune when he was twelve years of +age. His entire patrimony was a shirt, a suit of clothes, a cane, and +a blessing. For five years he was a sailor before the mast. Then he +bought a boat. He prospered and bought other vessels. After many years +he had large wealth, and was trading to the distant quarters of the +earth. + +When he was an old man he paid a visit to America. In two widely +separated places, attracted by the country, he bought land. One estate +was on Perkiomen Creek, near Philadelphia; the other was in Louisiana. +In Louisiana he spent much of his time; and there, on May 4, 1780,[2] +his son, John James Audubon, was born. + +Commodore Audubon wanted his son to be a seaman, and he took him to +France that he might be educated for the navy. But the boy's tastes +were in another direction altogether. One of the teachers provided for +him was an artist, who gave him lessons in drawing that were intended +as a part of his training for the profession the father had chosen for +him. But the boy put it to a use of his own. On his holidays he used +to take a lunch into the country, and would return loaded down with +all kinds of natural history specimens. These he would preserve in a +cabinet of his own devising, and drawings of many of them would be +made and treasured. + +Commodore Audubon was not pleased with his son's habits, and he +thought he would give him something to do that would distract his +mind. The estate in Pennsylvania needed a superintendent. So he sent +the would-be naturalist to America, with instructions to look after +the estate. + +But the wild woods about Philadelphia offered so many opportunities +for tramping and nature investigation that the estate was neglected. +The house on the estate, Mill Grove, which is still standing, is near +the mouth of the Perkiomen. Along this pleasing stream he could +ramble for hours, with his gun or his fishing rod or his collecting +instruments. Before long the attic room which he occupied was a +treasure house of birds and animals and natural-history specimens. He +was his own taxidermist. He would do his work seated at a window that +looks toward the Valley Forge country, where Washington spent the +winter of 1777-78 with his faithful soldiers. The marks of his work +are still to be seen on the old boards beneath the window. These +boards came from the sawmill on the estate which gave the house its +name. + +Here in this attic room the young naturalist dreamed of making +careful, accurate drawings of all the birds of America. He knew that +this would be a difficult matter, but he was not deterred by thought +of hardship and poverty. + +While he was dreaming of what he would do for the world, something was +happening in London that was to have an effect on his life. An +official named Bakewell refused to be silent about a matter that the +king felt should be forgotten. Bakewell was a conscientious man, and +he did not feel that silence would be proper. The king rebuked him, +and he resigned his office. At once he made up his mind to leave +England and make a home in America, taking with him his wife and +daughter. + +After many investigations, he found an estate near Philadelphia that +pleased him--Fatlands, on the Schuylkill, near the Perkiomen, so named +because every year the latter stream overflows and deposits rich +sediment on the surrounding lands. The mansion house at Fatlands was +built in 1774, and there Washington as well as the British commander +had been entertained by the Quaker owner who felt that he could not +show partiality. Here the English immigrant made his home. + +Of course Audubon heard of the coming of the strangers to the house +across the road, not half a mile from his own quarters. But he did not +go to call on them. He was French and they were English; he felt sure +they would be undesirable acquaintances, and that he had better keep +to the woods and follow his own pursuits, without reference to others. + +Then came a day when he was having a delightful stroll through the +woods. He was carrying specimens of many kinds. A stranger, also a +hunter, encountered him and made a remark about his burden that +touched a responsive chord. Soon the two were on good terms. "You must +come and see me," the stranger said. The invitation was accepted with +alacrity. Then came the question, "Where do you live?" To his +surprise, Audubon heard that this pleasing man was his new neighbor at +Fatlands. + +Deciding that an Englishman was not so bad, after all, he made it +convenient to call very soon. Then when he saw Mary Bakewell, the +daughter of the house, he was sure he liked the English. She showed +great sympathy for his pursuits, and he liked to talk with her about +them. Before long she decided to help him in his great life work, the +American ornithology. + +The marriage was postponed because of the death of Mrs. Bakewell, who +pined away, homesick for her native England. But the time came when, +on April 8, 1808, the two nature lovers became husband and wife. Then +they began the long wanderings in the West and the South, the fruit +of which was what has been called one of the most wonderful +ornithological treatises ever made, Audubon's "Birds of America." + +Mr. and Mrs. Audubon floated down the Ohio River, spent a season in +Kentucky and Missouri, had narrow escapes from the Indians, and +finally found their way to Louisiana. There for a time the wife +supported herself by teaching at the home of a planter. Friends and +acquaintances thought the husband was a madman to continue his quest +of birds when his family was in straitened circumstances. But Mrs. +Audubon believed in him, urged him to go to Europe and study painting +in oils, that he might be better equipped for the preparation of his +bird plates. She secured a good situation as teacher at Bayou Sara, +and was soon enjoying an income of three thousand dollars a year. + +Finally, with some of his own savings, as well as some of his wife's +funds, he went to England, where he was well received. Plans were made +to publish the bird plates, with descriptive matter, at one thousand +dollars per set. He had to have one hundred advance subscribers. These +he secured by personal solicitation. + +At last the work was issued. Cuvier called it "the most magnificent +work that art ever raised to ornithology." + +Many years later, Audubon, after the death of his wife, returned to +the scenes of his early life as a naturalist. "Here is where I met my +dear Mary," he said, with glistening eyes, as he looked into one of +the rooms of the old mansion. + +Mill Grove was built in 1762. Five years after Audubon's marriage the +estate was bought by Samuel Wetherill, the grandfather of the present +owner, W. H. Wetherill. + +Fatlands, which is one of the most beautiful old houses in the +vicinity of Philadelphia, was built in 1774. During the Revolution it +was occupied by a Quaker named Vaux, who entertained many officers of +both armies. It is related that one day General Howe, the British +commander, was entertained at breakfast, while Washington was in the +house for tea the same evening. + +The house was rebuilt in 1843, on the old foundations, according to +the original plan. + + + [Illustration: WAYNESBOROUGH, NEAR PAOLI, PENNA. + _Photo by H. C. Howland_ + See page 192] + +XLII + +WAYNESBOROUGH, NEAR PAOLI, PENNSYLVANIA + +THE HOME OF "MAD ANTHONY" WAYNE + +Captain Isaac Wayne, who commanded a company at the Battle of the +Boyne, came from Ireland to Pennsylvania in 1722. Two years later he +bought sixteen acres of land in Chester County and built +Waynesborough. + +His son Isaac, who was a captain in the French and Indian War, +enlarged the mansion in 1765. While a wing was added in 1812, it +presents much the same appearance to-day as it did at the time Anthony +Wayne left it to go to war with General Washington, even to the +crooked hood above the entrance door. The present owner, William +Wayne, is as unwilling as were his ancestors to have this hood +straightened. + +On the front of the house is a tablet which reads: + + The Home of General Anthony Wayne, + Born in this House, January 1, 1745. + Died at Erie, Pennsylvania, December 15, 1796. + A Leader of the American Revolution in + Pennsylvania and a soldier distinguished + for his + Services at Brandywine, Germantown, + Valley Forge, + Monmouth, Stony Point, and Yorktown. + Subdued the Indians of Ohio, 1794. + Commander-in-Chief of the + United States Army 1792-1796. + Marked by the Chester County Historical + Society. + +To this record the statement might have been added that General +Lafayette visited the home of his old commander when he was in the +United States in 1824. Reverently the General bowed his head in +Wayne's favorite sitting-room, to the right of the entrance hall, +where nothing had been disturbed since the death of the patriot. The +furnishings and ornaments of the room are the same to-day as then. + +Anthony Wayne was a delegate to several of the conventions which took +the preliminary steps leading to the Revolutionary War. In 1775 he was +a member of the Committee of Safety, and in the same year he organized +a regiment of "minute men" in Chester County. + +His first active service was as colonel with troops sent to Canada in +January, 1776, and from November, 1776, to April, 1777, as commander +of twenty-five hundred men at Ticonderoga. "It was my business to +prevent a junction of the enemy's armies and ... to keep at bay their +whole Canadian force," he wrote in a private letter. + +Here, in the midst of difficulties with soldiers who wanted to desert, +he heard that the British were threatening Waynesborough. But, like a +true soldier, he stuck to his work, and urged his wife to be brave. +"Should you be necessitated to leave East-town, I doubt not but you'll +meet with hospitality in the back parts of the Province," he wrote to +her. + +His fidelity and resourcefulness were recognized in February, 1777, by +a commission as brigadier general. Washington, who was then in New +Jersey, wrote to him a little later, saying that his presence with him +was "materially needed," to guard the country between West Point and +Philadelphia. And when the British fleet sailed out of New York +Harbor, Washington sent him to Chester, to organize the militia of +Pennsylvania. A few weeks later he was in charge of a division at +Brandywine. Historians say that his steadfastness on the left +prevented the advance of Knyphausen, and saved the right from entire +destruction. + +Less than a week later, within a mile of his own house, he was +surprised by the enemy near Paoli, in consequence, it is said, of the +act of an inn-keeper who betrayed Wayne's presence to the British. The +result was the only defeat of his brilliant career. Eighty of his men +were killed. The engagement has been called "the Paoli Massacre," +because of the conduct of the victors. Wayne escaped. A squad of +soldiers searched for him at Waynesborough. When they could not find +him in the house, they thrust their bayonets into the great boxwood +bush that is still to be seen in the rear of the mansion. + +Because some said that the General was responsible for the defeat, he +demanded a court-martial. The court-martial was held soon after, and +he was acquitted with the highest honor, and was declared to be "an +active, brave, and vigilant officer." + +Washington's letters and orderly book are full of references to Wayne. +He was a trusted commander, and his advice was followed many times. He +it was who first proposed that the army should "hut" during the winter +of 1776-77, some twenty miles from Philadelphia. He was always eager +to do his Commander's bidding. On one occasion, when he was in +Philadelphia, on his way to greet his family, he was met by a fast +rider who handed him a despatch in which Washington said, "I request +that you join the army as soon as you can." + +During his long absence from Waynesborough his wife Polly and his +children were continually in his thoughts. Once he wrote: + + "I am not a little anxious about the education of our girl + and boy. It is full time that Peggy should be put to dancing + school. How does she improve in her writing and reading? Does + Isaac take learning freely? Has he become fond of school?" + +Just before the storming of Stony Point, he prepared for death, +sending to a friend a letter which was not to be opened until the +author was dead. The letter said: + + "I know that your friendship will induce you to attend to the + education of my little son and daughter. I fear that their + mother will not survive this stroke. Do go to her." + +On the way up the mount he was grievously wounded and fell senseless. +Soon he roused himself and cried, "Lead me forward.... Let me die in +the fort." Several hours later he was able to send word to Washington, +"The fort and garrison are ours." + +In this spirit he served through the war. And when the action was won +he continued to fight for his country. On February 6, 1796, Claypool's +_Daily American Advertiser_ told of his return from his successful +campaign against the Indians of Ohio: + + "Four miles from the city, he was met by the entire Troop of + Philadelphia Light Horse, and escorted by them to town. On + his crossing the Schuylkill, a salute of fifteen guns was + fired from the Centre-square, by a party of Artillery. He was + ushered into the city by the ringing of bells and other + demonstrations of joy." + + + [Illustration: MORAVIAN CHURCH, BETHLEHEM, PENNA. + _Photo by Rev. A. D. Therelar, Bethlehem_ + See page 196] + +XLIII + +THE MORAVIAN CHURCH, BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA + +A RELIGIOUS COMMUNITY WHOSE FOUNDERS WERE TRUE PATRIOTS + +The Unitas Fratrum or Church of the Brethren arose in the fifteenth +century in Bohemia and Moravia. In 1727 intolerance led its leaders to +begin to plan an emigration to America. A colony was sent to +Pennsylvania in 1734, while a second colony went to Georgia in 1735. +Late in the year 1740 the remnant of the emigrants to Georgia joined +forces with the Pennsylvania contingent, and settled on five thousand +acres of land in the "Forks of the Delaware," as the locality just +within the confluence of the Delaware River and the Lehigh or "West +Fork of the Delaware" was called. The object of the settlers was to +preach to the Indians, and they began at once to win the confidence of +the Delawares. + +The first house was built in 1741. This was twenty by forty feet, one +story high, with sleeping quarters for a number of persons in the +attic under the steep pitched roof. The cattle were kept in a portion +of the house partitioned off for them. The common room in which they +lived was also the place of worship for more than a year. The site of +this house is marked by a memorial stone, which was put in place in +1892. + +The foundation for the Gemeinhaus, or Community House, was laid in +September. For many years this was to serve as home and hospice, manse +and church, administration office, academy, dispensary, and town-hall. +As "The House on the Lehigh," it became known through all the +countryside. + +The event of the year 1741 was the coming of Count Zinzendorf. The +Community House was not yet finished, but two rooms in the second +story were hurriedly prepared for the guest. + +No name had yet been given to the settlement, but on Christmas Eve, +after Zinzendorf had celebrated the Holy Communion in the building, +the only fitting name suggested itself. Bishop Levering of the +Moravian Church tells the story: + + "This humble sanctuary, with beasts of the stall sharing its + roof, brought the circumstances of the Saviour's birth + vividly before their imagination.... Acting upon an impulse, + the Count rose and led the way into the part of the building + in which the cattle were kept, while he began to sing the + quaintly pretty words of a German Epiphany hymn which + combined Christmas thoughts and missionary thoughts.... Its + language expressed well the feeling of the hour.... The + little town of Bethlehem was hailed, its boon to mankind was + lauded.... With this episode a thought came to one and + another which gave rise to a perpetual memorial of the + occasion.... By general consent the name of the ancient town + of David was adopted and the place was called Bethlehem." + +The chapel of the Gemeinhaus was used by the congregation for nine +years. During this period many of the Indians were baptised there. In +1752 and again in 1753 councils were held here with the +representatives of the Nanticoke and Shawnee Indians from the Wyoming +Valley. + +The second place of worship was an extension of the Gemeinhaus, +completed in 1751. Here congregations gathered for fifty-five years. +Here the gospel was preached by some of the most eminent ministers of +colonial days, while the records show that famous visitors sat in the +pews. Among them were Governor John Penn; Generals Washington, +Amherst, Gage, Gates, and Lafayette; John Hancock, Henry Laurence, +Samuel and John Adams, Richard Henry Lee, and many other delegates to +the Continental Congress. + +During the Revolution there were no more earnest patriots than the +members of the Moravian Community at Bethlehem. At one time the Single +Brethren's House was used for eight months as a hospital, and no +charge was made, though in 1779 a bill for repairs was sent which +amounted to $358. + +A letter from David Rittenhouse, received on September 16, 1778, +caused great excitement, for he told of the despatch to Bethlehem of +all the military stores of Washington's army, carried in seven hundred +wagons. This was done because Washington's army had been compelled to +fall back on Philadelphia. It was also thought wise to send the bells +of Christ Church and of Independence Hall to Allentown, by way of +Bethlehem. The wagon on which Independence Bell was loaded broke down +on descending the hill in front of the hospital, and had to be +unloaded while repairs were being made. + +The most distinguished patient cared for in Bethlehem was the Marquis +de Lafayette, who was brought from Brandywine, and was nursed by +Sister Liesel Beckel. + +Twenty years after the close of the war it was decided that the time +had come for the building of a permanent church. The first estimate +was made in 1802. At that time it was thought that the total cost +would be $11,000. "It is interesting to note how very modern they were +in underestimating the probable cost of a church," Bishop Levering +says. The actual cost, including the organ, was more than five times +the estimate. + +The excavation for the building was made in March, 1803, by volunteer +laborers, to whom the residents of the Sisters' House furnished lunch. +The work was completed in two weeks. Then the great foundation walls +were laid, six feet thick. + +For the services of consecration, held from May 18 to May 26, 1806, +six thousand people gathered in the village of five hundred +inhabitants. On the first day, "at five o'clock in the morning the +jubilant note of trombones, trumpets, and other wind instruments from +the belfry of the church broke the stillness of the awaking village +with a musical announcement of the festival day." + +The Moravian Community at Bethlehem has grown. But those who worship +in the old church are animated by the same missionary enthusiasm that +characterized those who founded the institution so long ago. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] A building to the east of Independence Hall was completed in 1791. +In this building, which was the Philadelphia City Hall until 1854, the +Supreme Court of the United States held its first session, February 7, +1791. + +In 1813 the arcades connecting the main building with the wings were +removed, and new buildings were erected which connected Independence +Hall with the corner buildings. + +In 1816 the city of Philadelphia became the owner of the whole +property. + +[2] This date and place were generally accepted until 1917, when +Francis Hobart Herrick published proof that Audubon was born in Santo +Domingo in 1785. + + + + +FIVE: OVER THE MASON AND DIXON LINE + + _Afar, through the mellow hazes + Where the dreams of June are stayed, + The hills, in their vanishing mazes, + Carry the flush, and fade! + Southward they fall, and reach + To the bay and the ocean beach, + Where the soft, half-Syrian air + Blows from the Chesapeake's + Inlets, coves, and creeks + On the fields of Delaware! + And the rosy lakes of flowers, + That here alone are ours, + Spread into seas that pour + Billow and spray of pink, + Even to the blue wave's brink, + All down the Eastern Shore!_ + + BAYARD TAYLOR. + + + + +FIVE: OVER THE MASON AND DIXON LINE + + +XLIV + +HISTORIC LANDMARKS AT NEW CASTLE, DELAWARE + +THE FIRST LANDING PLACE OF WILLIAM PENN + +How many students of United States history would be able to answer the +question, "What town has had at least seven different names and has +been under the flags of four different countries?" + +There is such a town, and but one--New Castle, Delaware. The Swedes +laid it out in 1631, and called it New Stockholm. In 1651 the Dutch +built a fort there, and called it Fort Kasimir. Sandhoec was a second +Dutch name. When the Dutch West India Company ceded it to the city of +Amsterdam it was named New Amstel. After 1675 the English took a hand +in naming the village. Grape Wine Point, Delaware Town, and, at +length, New Castle were the last names assigned to the seaport that, +within a generation, boasted twenty-five hundred inhabitants. + +The site of Fort Kasimir was long ago covered by the Delaware. A +quaint house, still occupied, is the only survival from the Dutch +period. But it would be difficult to find a town of four thousand +inhabitants which is so rich in buildings and traditions that go back +to the earliest English occupation. + +Many of the buildings and traditions centre about the old Market +Square, in the centre of the town, only a few hundred feet from the +Delaware. This square dates from the days of Petrus Stuyvesant, in +1658. At one end of the square is the old stone-paved courthouse, +which has been in use since 1672. To this building William Penn was +welcomed, as a tablet on the outer wall relates: + + "On the 28th Day of October, 1682, William Penn, the Great + Proprietor, on His First Landing in America, Here Proclaimed + His Government and Received from the Commissioner of the Duke + of York the Key of the Fort, the Turf, Twig, and Water, as + Symbols of His Possession." + +From the steps of the courthouse, as a centre, was surveyed the +twelve-mile circle whose arc was to be the northern line of Delaware, +according to the royal grant made to Penn. This arc forms the curious +circular boundary, unlike any other boundary in the United States. + + [Illustration: IMMANUEL CHURCH, NEWCASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 204] + +In the rear of the courthouse, though still on the green Market +Square, is old Emmanuel Protestant Episcopal Church, which was +organized in 1689, though the building now occupied was begun in 1703. +This cruciform structure is the oldest church of English building on +the Delaware, and services have been held here continuously since +1706, when it was completed. Queen Anne gave to the church a "Pulpit +and Altar Cloath, with a Box of Glass." A memorial tablet on the wall +tells of the first rector, Rev. George Ross, who came as a missionary +from England in 1703, and served for fifty years. His son, also George +Ross, was one of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence. +His daughter Gertrude married George Read, another of the Signers. The +tomb of George Read is in the rear of the church. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY OF PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, NEW CASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 205] + +Across the street from the Market Square is the Presbyterian church, +whose first building, erected in 1707, is still in use as a part of +its ecclesiastical plant. The pastor and many of the members of this +church had a prominent part in the War of the Revolution. + +The visitor who crosses from one of these churches to the other is +attracted by a stone pyramid, on the edge of the Market Square, whose +story is told by a tablet: + + "These stones were sleepers in the New Castle and Frenchtown + Railroad, completed in 1831, the first railroad in Delaware, + and one of the first in the United States." + + [Illustration: DOORWAY OF RODNEY HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_] + + [Illustration: DOORWAY OF STEWART HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_] + +The fire of 1824 which burned a large part of New Castle destroyed +many of the old houses, but there remain enough to make the town a +Mecca for those who delight in studying things that are old. Most of +these houses are on the square, or are within a short distance of it. +All are remarkable for the beautiful entrance doorways and wonderfully +carved interior woodwork. Artists from all parts of the country turn +to these houses for inspiration in their work. + + [Illustration: AMSTEL HOUSE, NEWCASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 205] + +The Amstel House, the home of Henry Hanby Hay, is the oldest of these; +it was probably built about 1730. One of its earliest owners was +Nicholas Van Dyke, who was a major of militia during the Revolution, +and later served six years in the Continental Congress. For three +years he was Governor of Delaware. During his residence in this house +it was called "The Corner." So, at least, it was referred to by +Kensey Johns in a love-letter to comely Anne Van Dyke, written during +the cold winter of 1784: + + "This evening I visited 'the Corner.' Soon after I went in + Mrs. V. says, 'Well, Mr. Johns, what say you to a ride below + with me, and bringing Miss Nancy up?' After an hour passed, I + recovered myself and answered in the negative, that my + business would not permit of it--Your papa discovered by his + countenance the lightest satisfaction at my refusal; this + approbation of his afforded me great pleasure. The more I + regard your happiness, the more desirous I am by assiduity + and attention to business to establish a character which will + give me consequence and importance in life. I wish to see you + more than words express. + + "Mrs. B. says she wants you to come up very much; she asked + me to use my influence to persuade you. All I can say is, + that if your Grand Mama's indisposition will admit of it, and + your inclination prompts you to come, it will much contribute + to my happiness, even if I should only see you now and then + for a few moments. My fingers are so cold I can scarce hold + my pen, therefore adieu. Be assured that I never cease to be, + + "Yours most affectionately, + + "KENSEY JOHNS." + + [Illustration: DOORWAY OF AMSTEL HOUSE, NEWCASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 205] + +On a pane of glass in the guest chamber of the old house some one long +ago scratched with a diamond a message that sounds as if it came from +the heart of the lover: + + "Around her head ye angels constant Vigil keep, + And guard fair innocence her balmy sleep." + +Three months after Kensey Johns wrote the ardent letter to Anne Van +Dyke, the day after the wedding, April 30, 1784, George Washington +came to the Corner, and there was a reception in his honor and that +of the bride and groom. The Father of his Country received the guests +standing before an old fireplace whose hearthstone has been lettered +in memory of the event. + +A few years later Kensey Johns, then Chief Justice of Maryland, built +near by a beautiful colonial mansion where he entertained many of the +leading men of the nation. + +Kensey Johns' predecessor as Chief Justice was George Read, the +Signer. His house, an old record says, stood so near the Delaware, +which is here two and a half miles wide, that when the tide was high +one wheel of a carriage passing in the street in front of it was in +the water, and in violent storms the waves were dashed against the +building. The house was in the midst of a wonderfully beautiful +garden. This garden is still one of the sights of the town, though the +house was destroyed in the fire of 1824. + + [Illustration: DOORWAY OF READ HOUSE, NEW CASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 207] + +George Read, the Signer's son, in 1801, built a house in the corner of +the garden, which was saved from the fire by a carpet laid on the roof +and kept thoroughly wet until the danger was past. This Georgian house +is a marvel of beauty, both inside and out. The hand-carved moldings, +mantels, and arches bring to the house visitors from far and near. +Miss Hatty Smith, the present owner, delights to show the place to all +who are interested. + + [Illustration: HALL OF READ HOUSE, NEWCASTLE, DEL. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 207] + +In the early days New Castle was on the King's Road from Philadelphia +to Baltimore. Washington passed this way when on his journeys. +Lafayette visited the town in 1824. The house built by Nicholas Van +Dyke, son of the owner of the Corner, received him for the marriage +of Charles I. Du Pont and Dorcas M. Van Dyke. It is recorded that on +this occasion he gave the bride away. + +Caesar Rodney, too, passed through the town frequently, notably when he +made the famous ride in July, 1776, that helped to save the +Declaration of Independence; here he rested after the first stage of +his historic journey. + +The name of George Thomson, secretary of Congress during the +Revolution, is also enrolled in the list of the worthies who visited +the town. In 1740 his father, when on his way from Ireland to America +with his three sons, died on shipboard. The captain appropriated the +meagre possessions of the family and set the boys ashore at New +Castle, penniless. George was sheltered by a butcher who was so +delighted with him that he decided to bring him up to the trade. +George was terrified when he overheard the man's plan; he did not +intend to be a butcher. So he stole out of the town between dark and +daylight and made his way to surroundings where the way was opened +that led him to usefulness and fame. + + + [Illustration: RIDGELY HOUSE, DOVER, DEL. + _Photo by R. C. Holmes_ + See page 208] + +XLV + +THE RIDGELY HOUSE, DOVER, DELAWARE + +A BOYHOOD HAUNT OF CAESAR RODNEY, THE SIGNER + +On the Green in Dover, Delaware, is one of the most striking houses of +the quaint old town--the Ridgely house. The date of its erection is +not certain, but it is an interesting fact that on one of the bricks +is the date 1728. Originally there were but two rooms in the house; +subsequent enlargements have been so harmonious that one who sees the +place from the Green must pause to admire. Admiration turns to delight +when the interior of the house is examined. The old-fashioned garden +at the rear intensifies delight. + +Dr. Charles Greenburg Ridgely became owner of the property in 1769. +The house was a gift from his father, Nicholas Ridgely. The second of +the wives who lived here with Dr. Ridgely was Ann, the daughter of +Squire William Moore of Moore Hall, near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, +whose determined advocacy of armed preparation for defence against a +threatened Indian attack once aroused the indignation of the +Pennsylvania Assembly, most of whose members were Friends. + +The Ridgely house was famous throughout Delaware as the resort of +patriots. Dr. Ridgely was six times a member of the Provincial +Assembly, and was also an active member of the Constitutional +Convention of Delaware in 1776. + +During the days when patriotic feelings were beginning to run high, +Caesar Rodney, the ward of Dr. Ridgely's father, was often an inmate of +the Ridgely house. Caesar was born near Dover in 1728. At Dover he +received most of his education. Some twenty years after the little +town saw so much of him he became famous because of his vital service +to the Colonies, as a member of the Continental Congress in +Philadelphia. "He was the most active, and was by odds the leading man +in the State in espousing the American cause," Henry C. Conrad once +said to the Sons of Delaware. In the course of his address Mr. Conrad +told the thrilling story of Caesar Rodney's most spectacular service. + +On July 1, 1776, when the vote was taken in the Committee of the Whole +of the Continental Congress as to the framing and proclaiming of the +Declaration of Independence, ten of the thirteen Colonies voted yes. +"Pennsylvania had seven delegates, four of whom were opposed to it, +and three in favor of it. Delaware had two members present, McKean and +Read. Rodney was absent. McKean was in favor of, and Read against the +Declaration. McKean, appreciating that it was most important, for the +sentiment it would create, that the Declaration of Independence should +be proclaimed by the unanimous vote of the thirteen Colonies, sent for +Rodney, who was at that time at one of his farms near Dover. Rodney +came post-haste, and he arrived just in time to save the day, and cast +the vote of Delaware in favor of the Declaration. + +McKean, writing of the event years afterward to Caesar A. Rodney, a +nephew of Caesar Rodney, said: + + "I sent an express, at my own private expense, for your + honored uncle, the remaining member from Delaware, whom I met + at the State House door, in his boots and spurs, as the + members were assembling. After a friendly salutation, without + a word in the business, we went into the hall of Congress + together, and found we were among the latest. Proceedings + immediately commenced, and after a few minutes the great + question was put. When the vote of Delaware was called, your + uncle arose and said: 'As I believe the voice of my + constituents and of all sensible and honest men is in favor + of independence, and my own judgment coincides with theirs, I + vote for independence.'" + +Since Pennsylvania also voted in favor of the Declaration, it was +adopted unanimously. + +Caesar Rodney was Governor of Delaware from 1778 to 1781. On April 8, +1784, the State Council, of which he was presiding officer, met at his +house near Dover, because he was too ill to go to Dover. Less than +three months later he died. + +A monument marks his last resting-place in Christ Episcopal churchyard +in Dover. + + +XLVI + +REHOBOTH CHURCH ON THE POCOMOKE, MARYLAND + +THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH IN AMERICA + +The Pocomoke River rises in southern Delaware, forms a part of the +eastern boundary of Somerset County, Maryland, and empties into +Pocomoke Sound, an inlet of Chesapeake Bay. On the banks of this +stream, not far from the mouth, Colonel William Stevens, a native of +Buckinghamshire, England, located in 1665, taking out a patent on what +he called the Rehoboth plantation, the name being chosen from Genesis +26:22. "And he called the name of it Rehoboth. And he said, For now +the Lord hath made room for us, and we shall be fruitful in this +land." When Somerset County was organized he was made Judge of the +County Court. He also became a member of "His Lordship's Councill," +and was one of the Deputy Lieutenants of the Province. + +As the years passed many followed Colonel Stevens to Somerset County, +in search of religious freedom. Scotch, Scotch-Irish, French, and +Quakers were represented in the village that was known at first as +Pocomoke Town, though later it was called Rehoboth. Many of these +settlers were Presbyterians, who had lost their property through +persecution. + +In 1672 the Grand Jury, encouraged by Judge Stevens, asked Rev. Robert +Maddux to preach at four points in the county. One of these points was +the plantation house at Rehoboth. The next year George Fox, the +Quaker, was in the community. He also preached in his famous "leather +breeches" at Colonel Stevens' plantation, to a great congregation of +several thousand whites and Indians. A Quaker monthly meeting +followed. + +The number of Presbyterians increased to such an extent that in 1680 +Colonel Stevens asked the Presbytery of Laggan in Ireland for a godly +minister to gather the band of exiles into a church. Francis Makemie +was sent as a result. Soon Rehoboth Church was organized by him, as +well as a number of other churches in the neighborhood. The exact date +of the beginning of Rehoboth Church is uncertain, but it is probable +that the first building was erected about 1683. + +For some years Makemie travelled from place to place, preaching and +organizing churches as he went, but from 1699 to 1708, except in 1704 +and 1705, when he visited Europe, he lived in the neighborhood and +preached at Rehoboth whenever he was at home. + +When it became necessary to erect a new church building, he decided to +have this on his own land, because of Maryland's intolerant laws. This +building, which is still in use, dates from 1706, the year when its +builder assisted in organizing the first Presbytery of the +Presbyterian Church at Philadelphia. + +Makemie's name will ever be connected with the struggle for religious +liberty. He had a certificate from the court that permitted him to +preach in the Province of Maryland, but he had many trying experiences +in spite of this fact. His congregation groaned under the necessity of +paying taxes to support the rectors of three neighboring parishes. + +The greatest trial was not in Maryland, but in New York, where he +spent a portion of 1706 and 1707. His experiences there should be +familiar to all who are interested in the struggle for religious +liberty in America. + +The story is told in a curious document written by Makemie himself, +which was printed in New York in 1707, under the title "A Particular +Narrative of the Imprisonment of two Non-Conformist Ministers; and +Prosecution & Tryal of one of them, for Preaching one Sermon in the +city of New-York. By a Learner of Law and Lover of Liberty." + +The warrant for the arrest of the "criminal" was addressed to Thomas +Cordale, Esqr., High-Sheriff of Queens County on Long-Island, or his +Deputy, and was signed by Lord Cornbury. It read: + + "Whereas I am informed, that one Mackennan, and one Hampton, + two Presbyterian Preachers, who lately came to this City, + have taken upon them to Preach in a Private House, without + having obtained My Licence for so doing, which is directly + contrary to the known Laws of England, and being likewise + informed, that they are gone into Long-Island, with intent + there to spread their Pernicious Doctrines and Principles, to + the great disturbance of the Order by Law established by the + Government of this province. You are therefore hereby + Required and Commanded, to take into your Custody the Bodies + of the said Mackennan and Hampton, and then to bring them + with all convenient speed before me, at Fort-Anne, in + New-York." + +When brought before Lord Cornbury, Makemie said: "We have Liberty from +an Act of Parliament, made the first year of the Reign of King William +and Queen Mary, which gave us Liberty, with which Law we have +complied." + +But Lord Cornbury replied: "No one shall Preach in my Government +without my Licence.... That Law does not extend to the American +Plantations, but only to England.... I know, for I was at Making +thereof.... That Act of Parliament was made against Strowling +Preachers, and you are such, and shall not Preach in my Government." + +Makemie again challenged Lord Cornbury to show "any Pernicious +Doctrine in the Confession of Faith of the Presbyterian Church." Later +he refused to give "Bail and Security to Preach no more." + +"Then you must go to Gaol," his Lordship said. + +On January 23 another warrant was given to the High Sheriff of New +York. He was told "to safely keep till further orders" the prisoners +committed to him. + +From the prison Makemie sent a petition asking to know the charge, and +demanding a speedy trial. Later the prisoner was released on habeas +corpus proceedings. + +At the trial, where Makemie conducted his own defence, he read Chapter +23 of the Westminster Confession of Faith, as a complete reply to the +charge that he believed what incited the people to disregard the +authority of the king. + +The jury brought in a verdict of "not guilty," but Makemie was obliged +to pay the costs, including the fees of the Court Prosecutor, which +amounted to twelve pounds. The total cost of the trial, including the +expense of a trip from his home in Maryland, made necessary by a +recess in the trial, was more than eighty pounds. + +A few months later Makemie died. It was felt by those who knew him +that the trying experiences at New York hastened his end. + +He had not lived in vain. His struggles for religious liberty were to +bear rich fruit before many years. + +Henry van Dyke wrote a sonnet to the memory of Francis Makemie, which +was read on May 14, 1908, when the monument to the memory of the +pioneer was unveiled: + + "To thee, plain hero of a rugged race, + We bring a meed of praise too long delayed! + Thy fearless word and faithful work have made + Of God's Republic a firmer resting-place + In this New World: for thou hast preached the grace + And power of Christ in many a forest glade, + Teaching the truth that leaves men unafraid + Of frowning tyranny or death's dark face. + + "Oh, who can tell how much we owe to thee, + Makemie, and to labor such as thine, + For all that makes America the shrine + Of faith untrammelled and of conscience free? + Stand here, grey stone, and consecrate the sod + Where rests this brave Scotch-Irish man of God." + + + [Illustration: DOUGHOREGAN MANOR, NEAR ELLICOTT CITY, MD. + _Photo by James F. Hughes Company, Baltimore_ + See page 216] + +XLVII + +DOUGHOREGAN MANOR, NEAR ELLICOTT CITY, MARYLAND + +WHOSE OWNER WAS THE LAST SURVIVING SIGNER OF THE DECLARATION OF +INDEPENDENCE + +It is true that when Charles Carroll was about to sign his name to the +Declaration of Independence he added the words, "of Carrollton," but +the story that he added the words there that he might be distinguished +from a second Charles Carroll is an error; he had been writing his +name thus since 1765. It would have been just as true a description if +he had used the name of another of the numerous Carroll estates, +Doughoregan Manor, but the designation he chose was simpler. At any +rate he could not spell it in so many ways as the name of the family +estate where he lived and died. Letters written by him at different +periods show such diverse spellings as "Doeheragen," "Doohoragen," +"Dooheragon," and "Dougheragen," before he settled down to +"Doughoregan." + +Doughoregan Manor, which was named for one of the O'Carroll estates in +Ireland, is one of the most ancient family seats in Maryland. In 1688 +Charles Carroll, I, came over from England. He became a large landed +proprietor, in part as a result of his appeal to the king of England +for a part in the estate of the O'Carrolls of King's County, Ireland. +The king satisfied the claim by offering him 60,000 acres of land in +the Colonies. His heir was Charles Carroll, II, who was born in 1702. +Fifteen years later Doughoregan Manor was built, and twenty-seven +years later Charles Carroll, II, and his brother Daniel sold sixty +acres of land which became the site of old Baltimore. + +Charles Carroll, II, divided his time between Doughoregan Manor and +the Carroll Mansion in Annapolis, his town house. Here was born, in +1737, Charles Carroll, III, the Signer. Most of the education of this +heir to the vast estate of Charles Carroll, II, was secured in France. +He was in Paris when his father wrote to him, in 1764, telling him of +the large property that was to come to him. After speaking of this in +detail, he concluded: + + "On my death I am willing to add my Manor of Doughoregan, + 10,000 acres, and also 1,425 Acres called Chance adjacent + thereto, on the bulk of which my negroes are settled. As you + are my only child, you will, of course, have all the residue + of my estate at my death." + +When the estate of his father finally came into his hands, Charles +Carroll, III, was the richest man in Maryland. That he knew how to +handle such a large property he showed by a letter which he wrote to +his son, Charles Carroll, IV, on July 10, 1801: + + "He who postpones till to-morrow what can and ought to be + done to-day, will never thrive in this world. It was not by + procrastination this estate was acquired, but by activity, + thought, perseverance, and economy, and by the same means it + must be preserved and prevented from melting away." + +But while the owner of Doughoregan Manor was careful, he was not +penurious. He kept open house to his numerous friends, of whom George +Washington was one. In one of the rooms of the Manor Washington sat +to Gilbert Stuart for his portrait. + +Both Mr. Carroll's property and his services were at his country's +call. From the days of the Stamp Act to the close of the Revolution +there was no more ardent patriot than he. He served as a member of the +Continental Congress, was for three months with Washington at Valley +Forge, by appointment of Congress, was later United States Senator, +and was a leader in business as well as in political affairs. With +Washington he was a member from the beginning of the Potomac Canal +Company, which later was merged into the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal +Company. + +After the Revolution he spent most of his time at Doughoregan Manor, +where he completed the remarkable three-hundred-foot facade by the +addition of the chapel which has been used by the family for more than +a century. + +One by one the sons and daughters went out from the house, carrying +the Carroll name or the Carroll training into many sections of +Maryland and Virginia. Perhaps the most interesting marriage was that +of Charles Carroll, IV, who was mentioned by Washington in his diary +for 1798: + + "March 27--Mr. Charles Carroll, Jr. ... came to dinner. + + "March 28--Mr. Carroll went away after breakfast." + +William Spohn Baker, in "Washington after the Revolution," after +quoting these extracts from the diary, says: + + "The visit of young Mr. Carroll having given rise at + Annapolis to a rumor that it was made with the intention + of paying his addresses to Nelly Custis, her brother wrote + to the General in allusion to it, saying, 'I think it a most + desirable match, and wish that it may take place with all my + heart.' In reply, under date of April 15, Washington wrote, + 'Young Mr. Carroll came here about a fortnight ago to dinner, + and left on next morning after breakfast. If his object was + such as you say has been reported, it was not declared here; + and therefore, the less is said upon the subject, + particularly by your sister's friends, the more prudent it + will be, until the subject develops itself more.' + + "But youthful alliances are not always made at the nod of + Dame Rumor, nor are they always controlled by the wishes of + relatives. Nelly Custis married, February 22, 1799, at Mount + Vernon, Laurence Lewis, a nephew of Washington; and Charles + Carroll, Junior, found, in the following year, a bride at + Philadelphia, Harriet, a daughter of Benjamin Chew" [of + Cliveden]. + +A delightful picture of life at the Manor was given by Adam Hodgson, +an English visitor, who wrote from Baltimore on July 13, 1820: + + "I have lately been paying some very agreeable visits at the + country seats of some of my acquaintances in the + neighborhood.... The other morning I set out, at four + o'clock, with General H, on a visit to a most agreeable + family, who reside at a large Manor, about seventeen miles + distant. We arrived about seven o'clock, and the family soon + afterward assembled to breakfast. It consisted of several + friends from France, Canada, and Washington, and the children + and grandchildren of my host, a venerable patriarch, nearly + eighty-five (83) years of age, and one of the four survivors + of those who signed the Declaration of Independence.... After + breakfasting the following morning, the ladies played for us + on the harp; and in the evening, I set out on horseback, to + return hither, not without a feeling of regret, that I had + probably taken a final leave of my hospitable friend, who, + although still an expert horseman, seldom goes beyond the + limits of his manor...." + +The other three surviving Signers died first, so that when Charles +Carroll of Carrollton followed on November 14, 1832, the last Signer +was gone. Among his last words were these: + + "I have lived to my ninety-sixth year; I have enjoyed + continued health, I have been blessed with great wealth, + prosperity, and most of the good things which this world can + bestow--public approbation, esteem, applause; but what I now + look back on with the greatest satisfaction to myself is, + that I have practiced the duties of my religion." + +He was buried under the pavement of the chapel at the Manor. + +The present occupants of Doughoregan are Mr. and Mrs. Charles Carroll, +who followed Governor John Lee Carroll, after his death in 1911. + + + [Illustration: UPTON SCOTT HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS, MD. + _Photo by M. M. Carter, Annapolis_ + See page 220] + +XLVIII + +THE UPTON SCOTT HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND + +WHERE, AS A BOY, THE AUTHOR OF "THE STAR-SPANGLED BANNER" WAS A +FREQUENT VISITOR + +When Colonel James Wolfe was campaigning in Scotland in 1748 to 1753, +one of the surgeons in his command was Upton Scott, a young Irishman +from County Antrim. At that time began a friendship between the two +men that continued through life. + +Another friend made at this time by the young surgeon was Horatio +Sharpe. In 1753, when Sharpe planned to go to America, Dr. Scott +decided to go with him, though it was not easy to think of resigning +his commission, for this would mean the severance of pleasant +relations with his colonel. When Wolfe said good-bye to his comrade he +gave him a pair of pistols as a remembrance. These are still treasured +by descendants of the surgeon. + +From 1754 to 1769 Horatio Sharpe was Proprietary Governor of Maryland, +and Dr. Scott was his companion and physician. The young surgeon was +popular among the young people whom he met at Annapolis, the colonial +capital. + +In 1760, when he persuaded Elizabeth Ross, the daughter of John Ross, +the Register of the Land Office of Maryland, to become his bride, he +built for her the stately house in Annapolis, Maryland, which is now +occupied by the Sisters of Notre Dame. The new house, with its +charming doorway and wonderful hall carvings, was well worth the +attention even of one who had spent her girlhood at Belvoir, a quaint +mansion of great beauty, six miles from Annapolis. + +Governor Sharpe was a welcome visitor at the Scott house until the +time of his death in 1789, when he appointed his friend, the owner, +one of his executors. Governor Robert Eden, the last of the +Proprietary Governors, who served from 1769 to 1774, was at times +almost a member of the Scott household. + +Governor Eden was looked upon with favor by the patriots in Maryland +because he was always moderate and advised the repeal of the tax on +tea. In 1776 he went to England, but in 1784 he returned to Maryland +to look after the estate of Mrs. Eden, who was Caroline Calvert, +sister of Lord Baltimore; by the terms of the treaty of 1783 he was +entitled to this property. While in Annapolis he was the guest of Dr. +Scott. There, in the room now used by the Sisters of Notre Dame as a +chapel, he died. + +But probably the most famous visitor to the Scott mansion was Francis +Scott Key, who was the grandson of Mrs. Scott's sister, Ann Arnold +Ross Key of Belvoir. When he was a boy he was often in Annapolis. His +college training was received at St. John's in the old town, and in +later life he frequently turned his steps to the house of his +great-aunt and listened to the stories of Dr. Scott that helped to +train him in the patriotism that was responsible, a few years later, +for the composition of the "Star-Spangled Banner." + +Many garbled stories have been told of the circumstances that led to +the writing of this song that has stirred the hearts of millions. The +true story, and in many respects the simplest, was told by Key himself +to his brother-in-law, R. R. Taney, who was later Chief Justice of the +Supreme Court. In 1865, when the "Poems of the Late Francis Scott Key, +Esq.," were published, the volume contained the story as related by +Judge Taney. + +In 1814, the main body of the British invaders passed through Upper +Marlboro, Maryland. Many of the officers made their headquarters at +the home of Dr. William Beanes, a physician whom the whole town loved. +When some of the stragglers from the army began to plunder the house, +Dr. Beanes put himself at the head of a small body of citizens and +pursued these stragglers. When the British officers heard of this, Dr. +Beanes was seized and treated, not with kindness as a prisoner of +war, but with great indignity. Key, as an intimate friend of the +doctor, and a lawyer, was asked by the townsmen to intercede for the +prisoner. When application was made to President Madison for help, he +arranged to send Key to the British fleet, under a flag of truce, on a +government vessel, in company with John S. Skinner, a government +agent. + +For a week or ten days no word came from the expedition. The people +were alarmed for the safety of Key and his companion. + +The bearers of the flag of truce found the fleet at the mouth of the +Potomac. They were received courteously until they told their +business. The British commander spoke harshly of Dr. Beanes, but +fortunately Mr. Skinner had letters from the British officers who had +received kindness at the doctor's hands. General Ross finally agreed +that, solely as a recognition of this kindness, the prisoner would be +released. But he told the Americans that they could not leave the +fleet for some days. They were therefore taken to the frigate +_Surprise_, where they were under guard. They understood that an +immediate attack on Baltimore was contemplated, and that they were +being restrained that they might not warn the city of the plans of the +enemy. + +That night Fort McHenry was attacked. The Admiral had boasted that the +works would be carried in a few hours, and that the city would then +fall. So, from the deck of the _Surprise_, Key and his companion +watched and listened anxiously all night. Every time a shell was +fired, they waited breathlessly for the explosion they feared might +follow. "While the bombardment continued, it was sufficient proof that +the fort had not surrendered. But it suddenly ceased some time before +day.... They paced the deck for the remainder of the night in fearful +suspense.... As soon as it dawned, and before it was light enough to +see objects at a distance, their glances were turned to the fort, +uncertain what they should see there, the Stars and Stripes, or the +flag of the enemy. At length the light came, and they saw that 'our +flag was still there.'" + +A little later they saw the approach of boats loaded with wounded +British soldiers. Then Key took an envelope and wrote many of the +lines of the song, and while he was on the boat that carried him to +shore he completed the first rough draft. That night, at the hotel, he +rewrote the poem. Next day he showed it to Judge Nicholson, who was so +delighted with it that the author was encouraged to send it to a +printer, by the hand of Captain Benjamin Eades. Captain Eades took the +first handbill that came from the press and carried it to the old +tavern next the Holliday Street Theatre. There the words were sung for +the first time, to the tune "Anacreon in Heaven," the tune Key had +indicated on his copy. + +Long before the author's death in 1843 the song had won its place in +the affections of the people. He wrote many other poems, and some of +them have become popular hymns. At the memorial service conducted for +him in Christ Church, Cincinnati, by his friend and former pastor, +Rev. J. T. Brooke, the congregation was asked to sing Key's own hymn, +beginning: + + "Lord, with glowing heart I'd praise thee, + For the bliss thy love bestows; + For the pardoning grace that saves me, + And the peace that from it flows. + + Help, O Lord, my weak endeavor; + This dull soul to rapture raise; + Thou must light the flame, or never + Can my love be warmed to praise." + +Dr. Scott, in whose Annapolis home Key had spent so many happy days, +died in 1814, the year of the composition of "The Star-Spangled +Banner." Mrs. Scott lived until 1819. + + +XLIX + +THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON + +THE BEGINNINGS OF WASHINGTON CITY, AND THE STORY OF THE HOME OF +CONGRESS + +The selection of parts of Virginia and Maryland as the site of the +Federal District in which the National Capital was to be located was +made only after many years of discussion. + +In 1779 some of the members of Congress talked of buying a few square +miles near Princeton, New Jersey, as a site for the government's +permanent home. Four years later, the trustees of Kingston, New York, +sought to interest Congress in that location. In 1783 Annapolis, +Maryland, offered the State House and public circle to "the Honorable +Congress" for their use. Burlington, New Jersey, also entered the +lists, while in June, 1783, Virginia offered the town of Williamsburg +to Congress and proposed to "present the palace, the capitol, and all +the public buildings and 300 acres of land adjoining the said city, +together with a sum of money not exceeding 100,000 pounds, this state +currency to be expended in erecting thirteen hotels for the use of +the delegates in Congress." + +In October, 1784, Congress decided to place the capital near Trenton, +New Jersey. Later it was decided to have a second capital on the +Potomac, Congress to alternate between the two locations. + +Neither Congress nor the country was satisfied with this solution of +the difficulty. After years of discussion, in September, 1789, one +house of Congress fixed on the Falls of the Susquehanna in +Pennsylvania as the permanent site. The Senate amended their proposal +by suggesting Germantown, Pennsylvania. + +This action was reconsidered and a long dispute followed. Finally, in +1790, the site on the Potomac was selected, and Congress was ready to +provide for the building of "a palace in the woods." + +President Washington and Vice-President Adams disagreed as to the +location of the Capitol building. John Adams wished to see it the +centre of a quadrangle of other public buildings, but Washington urged +that Congress should meet in a building at a distance from the +President's house and all other public buildings, that the lawmakers +might not be annoyed by the executive officers. + +The invitation to architects to present plans for the Capitol was made +in March, 1792, five hundred dollars being promised for the best plan. +None of the sixteen designs submitted were approved. Later two men, +Stephen L. Hallet and Dr. William Thornton, offered such good plans +that it was not easy to decide between them. The difficulty was solved +by acceptance of Thornton's design and the engagement of Hallet as +supervising architect at a salary of two thousand dollars a year. +This arrangement was not satisfactory; it became necessary to replace +Hallet first by George Hadfield, then by James Hoban, the architect of +the White House. Under his charge the north wing was completed in +1800. + +The proceeds from the sale of lots in the new city proved woefully +inadequate for the expenses of the building. Congress authorized a +loan of eight hundred thousand dollars, but this loan could not be +disposed of until Maryland agreed to take two-thirds of the amount, on +condition that the commissioners in charge of the work add their +personal guarantee to the government's promise to pay. + +Congress was called to hold its first meeting in the Capitol north +wing on November 17, 1800. A few months earlier the government +archives had been moved from New York. These were packed in ten or +twelve boxes, and were shipped on a packet boat, by sea. The arrival +of the vessel was greeted by the three thousand citizens of +Washington, who rang bells, cheered, and fired an old cannon in +celebration of the event. + +At that time the foundation for the dome had been laid, and the walls +of the south wing had been begun. Later a temporary brick building was +erected for the House, on a portion of the site of the south wing. The +legislators called the building "The Oven." + +The south wing was completed under the guidance of Benjamin Henry +Latrobe, who also reconstructed the north wing and connected the two +wings by a wooden bridge. That the building was far from satisfactory +is evident from an article in the _National Intelligencer_ of December +2, 1813, which spoke with disgust of the wooden passageway as well as +of the piles of debris on every hand. + +In less than a year after the printing of the criticism, conditions +were far worse, for the British troops came to Washington on August +24, 1814. They piled furniture in the hall of the House, and set fire +to it. The wooden bridge that connected the wings burned like tinder. +In a little while nothing was left but the walls. "The appearance of +the ruins was perfectly terrifying," Architect Latrobe wrote. + +Thus was fulfilled in a striking way the prophecy made by John +Randolph when he pleaded with Congress not to make war on Great +Britain, "All the causes urged for this war will be forgotten in your +treaty of peace, and possibly this Capitol may be reduced to ashes." + +The next session of Congress was held in the Union Pacific Hotel, but +by December, 1815, there was ready a three-story building, erected by +popular subscription, which Congress used for three years, paying for +it an annual rental of $1,650. This was called "The Brick Capitol." + +Of course efforts were made to remove the Capital to another location, +but Congress made appropriation for the reconstruction of the Capitol +on the old site. Work was begun almost at once, and was continued +until 1830, when the wings had been rebuilt as well as the rotunda and +centre structure. In general appearance the building was the same as +before the fire, but marble instead of sandstone was used for +colonnades and staircases and floors. The beautiful capitals of the +marble pillars were carved in Italy or prepared by workmen brought +from Italy. + +During the latter part of this period the rotunda was used for all +sorts of exhibitions. Once a panorama of Paris was shown there, an +admission fee of fifty cents being charged. Exhibits of manufactured +goods were made in this "no man's land," over which nobody seemed to +have jurisdiction. In 1827 a congressman spoke in the House of the +fact that "triangles of steel to take the place of bells, stoves, stew +pans, pianos, mouse traps, and watch ribbons were marked with prices +and sundry good bargains were driven." The general public felt that +they had a right even to the hall of the House; frequently popular +meetings were held there. + +The present dome surmounting the rotunda is not the dome first +planned. For Latrobe's dome, which he did not build, a higher dome was +substituted by Bulfinch. The present dome is the work of Thomas U. +Walter, the designer of Girard College, Philadelphia, whose plans for +the completion of the Capitol were approved in 1851. The burning of +the western front of the centre building in December, 1851, proved a +blessing in disguise, for Walter was able to rebuild the section in +perfect harmony with the other portions. The House first occupied its +present quarters on December 16, 1857, but the Senate was not able to +take possession of its new hall until January 4, 1859. + +The great structure was finished in 1865, work having been carried on +throughout the Civil War. Though they knew that there would be delay +in receiving payment for their work, the contractors insisted on +continuing and completing what is one of the most harmonious public +buildings in the world. + +The patriotic contractors had their reward, for the building was +ready to receive the body of President Lincoln when, on April 19, +1865, after the services in the White House, the casket was placed on +a catafalque under the dome of the rotunda, that the people of the +country whose destinies he had guided through four years of civil war +might gather there to do him honor. + + +L + +THE WHITE HOUSE, WASHINGTON + +THE HOME OF EVERY PRESIDENT SINCE WASHINGTON + +When, in 1792, James Hoban suggested to the commission appointed to +supervise the erection of public buildings at Washington that the +Executive Mansion be modelled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster +in Dublin, his proposition was accepted, and he was given a premium of +five hundred dollars for the plan. More, he was engaged, at the same +amount per year, to take charge of the builders. + +No time was lost in laying the corner stone. The ceremony was +performed on October 13, 1792, and operations were pushed with such +speed that the building was completed ten years later! + +In November, 1800, six months after the transfer of the government +offices from Philadelphia to Washington, Mrs. Adams joined President +Adams at the White House. She had a hard time getting there. A few +days after her arrival she wrote to her daughter: + + "I arrived here on Sunday last, and without meeting any + accident worth noticing, except losing ourselves when we + left Baltimore, and going eight or nine miles on the + Frederick road, by which means we were obliged to go the + other eight miles through woods, where we wandered for two + hours, without finding a guide, or the path. Fortunately, a + straggling black came up with us, and we engaged him as a + guide to extricate us out of our difficulty; but woods are + all you see, from Baltimore until you reach the city, which + is only so in name. Here and there is a small cot, without a + glass window, interspersed amongst the forests, through which + you travel miles without seeing any human being. In the city + there are buildings enough, if they were compact and + furnished, to accommodate Congress and those attached to it; + but as they are, and scattered as they are, I see no great + comfort for them." + +Mrs. Adams found no great comfort in the White House, either. "To +assist us in this great castle," she wrote, "and render less +attendance necessary, bells are wholly wanting, not one single one +being hung through the whole house, and promises are all you can +obtain.... If they will put me up some bells, and let me have wood +enough to keep fires, I design to be pleased.... But, surrounded with +forests, can you believe that wood is not to be had, because people +cannot be found to cut and cart it.... The house is made habitable, +but there is not a single apartment finished.... We have not the least +fence, yard, or other convenience, without, and the great, unfinished +audience-room I make a drying room of, to hang up the clothes in. The +principal stairs are not up, and will not be this winter." + +The building itself was in good condition, though the surroundings +were far from prepossessing, when it was burned by the British in +1814. President and Mrs. Madison moved to the Octagon House, and spent +more than a year in this comfortable winter home of Colonel John +Tayloe. + +The cost of rebuilding and refurnishing the Executive Mansion was +about three hundred thousand dollars. The work was begun in 1814, and +in September, 1817, the building was so far completed that President +Monroe was able to take up his quarters there in some degree of +comfort, though the floor in the East Room had not yet been laid and +some of the walls were still without plastering. On January 1, 1818, +the first New Year's reception was held there. "It was gratifying to +be able to salute the President of the United States with the +compliments of the season in his appropriate residence," the _National +Intelligencer_ said. It may be added that the editor called the +building "the President's House." The title, "the White House," was +not yet in common use. + +For many years the successive occupants of the building were subject +to all sorts of criticism. Mrs. Monroe refused both to make first +calls and to return calls. President Monroe bought foreign-made +furnishings! John Quincy Adams actually introduced a billiard table, +and the use of public money to buy "a gaming table" was bitterly +attacked! (Of course the purchase was made with personal funds.) Mrs. +Adams was cold and haughty! When President Van Buren left Washington +he took with him the gold spoons and the gilt dessert service that had +attracted attention! But these were private property. + +However, most criticisms like these have been inspired by pride in the +President and his household, and a pardonable feeling of possession in +them and the White House. + +Until within recent years the President's offices were in the east end +of the White House. A pleasing description of these offices has come +down from Isaac N. Arnold, who thus spoke of the quarters of President +Lincoln: + + "The furniture of the room consisted of a large oak table, + covered with cloth extending north and south, and it was + round this table that the Cabinet sat when it held its + meetings. Near the end of the table and between the windows + was another table, on the west side of which the President + sat, in a large arm-chair, and at this table he wrote. A tall + desk, with pigeon holes for paper, stood against the south + wall. The only books usually found in this room were the + Bible, the United States Statutes, and a copy of Shakespeare. + There were a few chairs and two plain hair-covered sofas. + There were two or three map frames, from which hung military + maps, on which the positions and movements of the armies were + traced. There was an old and discolored engraving of General + Jackson over the mantel and a later photograph of John + Bright. Doors open into this room from the room of the + secretary and from the outside hall, running east and west + across the house. A bell-cord within reach of his hand + extended to the secretary's office. A messenger sat at the + door opening from the hall, and took in the cards and names + of visitors." + +During the time of President Roosevelt, outside Executive offices were +built, and rooms that had long been needed for the personal uses of +the President's household were released. The change has increased +patriotic pride in the White House, one of the simplest mansions +provided for the rulers of the nations. + + + [Illustration: THE STAIRWAY, OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C. + _From the Monograph on the Octagon House, + Issued by the American Institute of Architects_] + +LI + +THE OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON + +IN WHICH DOLLY MADISON LAVISHED HOSPITALITY IN 1814 + +John Tayloe, the wealthiest man in the Virginia of the late eighteenth +century, had his summer home at Mt. Airy. His plantation, the largest +in the State, was worked by more than five hundred slaves. + +When he wanted a winter home, he thought of building at Philadelphia. +But George Washington, eager to secure him as a resident of the young +Federal City on the Potomac, asked him to consider the erection of a +house there. So Mr. Tayloe made an investigation of Washington as a +site for a residence, bought a lot for one thousand dollars, and in +1798 commissioned Dr. William Thornton to make the plans for a +palatial house. During the construction of the building Washington +several times rode by and from the saddle inspected the progress of +the work. + +Thornton was at the time a well-known man, though he had been born in +the West Indies and was for many years a resident there. After +receiving his education in Europe, he lived for several years in the +United States. During this period he was a partner of John Fitch in +the building and trial of the steamboat that for a time ran +successfully on the Delaware River, more than twenty years before +Fulton built the _Clermont_. He was himself something of an inventor; +he secured a number of patents for a device to move a vessel by +applying steam to a wheel at the side of the hull. + +He had returned to the West Indies when he read that a prize was to be +given for the best plan submitted for the Capitol to be built at +Washington. At once he wrote for particulars, and in due time he +presented his plans. He was then living in the United States. The +plans were considered the best that had been offered. Jefferson said +that they "captivated the eyes and judgment of all," while Washington +spoke of their "grandeur, simplicity, and convenience." While these +plans were later modified by others, certain features of the Capitol +as it appears to-day are to be traced directly to Dr. Thornton's +plans. + +At the time of the award he was but thirty-one years old, and had +already won a place as a physician, an inventor, and a man of science. +He was a friend of Benjamin Franklin, and had received the prize +offered for the design for the new building of the Library Company of +Philadelphia, in which Franklin was especially interested. Later he +was awarded a gold medal by the American Philosophical Society for a +paper in which he outlined the method of the oral teaching of deaf and +dumb children which is still in use in many institutions. + + [Illustration: OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C. + _Photo by Frank Cousins Art Company + from the Monograph on the Octagon House + by the American Institute of Architects_ + See page 234] + +The building planned by Dr. Thornton for Mr. Tayloe, at the northeast +corner of New York Avenue and Eighteenth Street, was completed in +1801. At the time it was the best house in Washington. At once, as the +Octagon House, it became famous for the lavish hospitality of its +owner. + +The next stirring period in the history of the Octagon House was the +later years of the second war with Great Britain. On the night of +August 24, 1814, when the British Army entered the city, the French +minister, M. Serurier, looked from his window and saw soldiers +bearing torches going toward the White House. Quickly he sent a +messenger to General Ross and asked that his residence be spared. The +messenger found General Ross in the Blue Room, where he was collecting +furniture for a bonfire. Assured that "the king's house" would be +respected, he returned to the minister. + +Dr. Thornton, who was at the time superintendent of the patent office, +succeeded in persuading Colonel Jones to spare that building, on the +ground that it was a museum of the Arts, and that its destruction +would be a loss to all the world. + +Among the public buildings destroyed was the White House. Mr. Tayloe +at once offered the Octagon House to President Madison. On September +9, 1814, the _National Intelligencer_ announced, "The President will +occupy Colonel Tayloe's large house, which was lately occupied by the +French minister." For more than a year the house was known as the +Executive Annex. + +Rufus Rockwell Wilson, in "Washington, the Capital City," tells how +the mansion looked at this time: + + "Its circular entrance hall, marble tiled, was heated by two + picturesque stoves placed in small recesses in the wall. + Another hall beyond opened into a spacious and lovely garden + surrounded by a high brick wall after the English fashion. To + the right was a handsome drawing room with a fine mantel, + before which Mrs. Madison was accustomed to stand to receive + her guests. To the left was a dining-room of equal size and + beauty. A circular room over the hall, with windows to the + floor and a handsome fireplace, was President Madison's + office. Here he received his Cabinet officers and other men + of note, listening to their opinions and reports on the + progress of the war; and here, also, on a quaintly carved + table, he signed, February 18, 1815, the proclamation of the + Treaty of Ghent, which ended the contest with England." + +The story of this table's history is interesting. From the Octagon +House it went to John Ogle Ferneaux, of King George County, Virginia. +He kept it until October 30, 1897, when it was sold to Mrs. A. H. +Voorhies, of 2011 California Street, San Francisco. When the fire that +succeeded the earthquake of 1906 approached the house, the table was +taken away hurriedly. Mrs. Voorhies says, "We wrapped sheets around +the circular part of the table, and in part of the journey, it went +turning round as a wheel to a place of safety." The San Francisco +chapter of the Institute of Architects purchased it for $1,000, and +sent it to Washington, December 1, 1911. + +It is said that on the day the message came to the Octagon House that +peace had been declared, Miss Sally Coles, who was Mrs. Madison's +cousin, called from the head of the stairs, "Peace! Peace!" One who +was a guest at the time gave a lively account of the scene in the +house: + + "Late in the afternoon came thundering down Pennsylvania + Avenue a coach and four foaming steeds, in which was the + bearer of the good news. Cheers followed the carriage as it + sped on its way to the residence of the President. Soon after + nightfall, members of Congress and others deeply interested + in the event presented themselves at the President's House, + the doors of which stood open. When the writer of this + entered the drawing room at about eight o'clock, it was + crowded to its full capacity. Mrs. Madison--(the President + being with the Cabinet)--doing the honors of the occasion; + and what a happy scene it was!" + +Mr. Tayloe occupied the Octagon at intervals until his death in 1828. +Mrs. Tayloe lived until 1855. By this time the neighborhood had +changed, and the property deteriorated. In 1865 it was occupied as a +girls' school. From 1866 to 1879 it was the hydrographic office of the +Navy Department. Later it became a dwelling and studio. From 1885 to +1889 it was in the hands of a caretaker, and deteriorated rapidly. At +the last eight or ten families of colored people lived within the +storied walls. + +The Institute of American Architects leased the property in 1899 and +later purchased the house for $30,000. It is now one of the sights of +Washington. A tablet fixed to the wall relates the main facts of its +history. + + + + +SIX: HOMES AND HAUNTS OF THE CAVALIERS + + _I love the stately southern mansions with their tall white + columns, + They look through avenues of trees, over fields where the cotton + is growing; + I can see the flutter of white frocks along their shady porches, + Music and laughter float from the windows, the yards are full of + hounds and horses. + Long since the riders have ridden away, yet the houses have not + forgotten, + They are proud of their name and place, and their doors are always + open, + For the thing they remember best is the pride of their ancient + hospitality._ + + HENRY VAN DYKE. + + + + +SIX: HOMES AND HAUNTS OF THE CAVALIERS + + + [Illustration: MOUNT VERNON, VIRGINIA, REAR VIEW + _Photo by E. C. Hall_ + See page 241] + +LII + +MOUNT VERNON, VIRGINIA + +SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON + +George Washington was twenty years old when he became the owner of the +Mount Vernon estate on the Potomac, in accordance with the provisions +of the will of Laurence Washington, his half-brother. At that time the +house contained but eight rooms and an attic, four rooms on each +floor. There were twenty-five hundred acres in the farm. + +As a boy Washington had tramped over every acre of the estate. When he +was sixteen he made a plot of the region around Mt. Vernon. The +original of the survey made at that time may be seen in the Library of +Congress at Washington. + +The young owner looked forward to years of quiet on his estate, but he +was frequently called away from home for service in the militia of +Virginia. In spite of these absences, however, he managed to make the +acres surrounding the mansion give a good account of themselves. + +When he responded to the call of the Colonies and became +Commander-in-Chief of the army, he turned his back on Mt. Vernon with +great reluctance, and for six years hardly saw the place he loved. +But when the independence of the Colonies had been won he returned +home, in the hope that he might be permitted to remain there in +obscurity, farming his land and entertaining his friends in the house +on the Potomac. + +That he might have more room for his friends, he enlarged the house. +On July 5, 1784, he wrote to his friend, William Rumney of Alexandria, +asking him to inquire into the terms on which "a House Joiner and +Bricklayer" might be engaged for two or three years. To the house, +which dated from 1744, he made additions until it was three times as +large as when he inherited the property. The alterations were +completed in 1785. The completed house was ninety-six feet long, and +thirty feet deep, with a piazza fifteen feet wide. The building +material was wood, cut in imitation of stone. + +While these alterations were in progress a visitor to Mt. Vernon was +Charles Vardo, an Englishman. When he returned home he wrote an +account of his visit, in which said: + + "I crossed the river from Maryland into Virginia, near to the + renowned General Washington's, where I had the honor to spend + some time, and was kindly entertained with that worthy + family. As to the General, if we may judge by the + countenance, he is what the world says of him, a shrewd, + good-natured, plain, humane man, about fifty-five years of + age, and seems to wear well, being healthful and active, + straight, well made, and about six feet high. He keeps a good + table, which is always open to those of a genteel + appearance.... + + "The General's house is rather warm, snug, convenient and + useful, than ornamental. The size is what ought to suit a man + of about two or three thousand a year in England. The + out-offices are good and seem to be not long built; and he + was making more offices at each wing to the front of the + house, which added more to ornament than to real use. The + situation is high, and commands a beautiful prospect of the + river which parts Virginia and Maryland, but in other + respects the situation seems to be out of the world, being + chiefly surrounded by woods, and far from any great road or + thoroughfare.... The General's lady is a hearty, comely, + discreet, affable woman, some few years older than + himself.... The General's house is open to poor travellers as + well as rich, he gives diet and lodging to all that come that + way, which indeed cannot be many, without they go out of + their way on purpose...." + +A visitor of January 19, 1785, was Elkanah Watson. In his diary +Washington wrote simply that Mr. Watson came in and stayed all night; +and that he went away after breakfast next morning. But Mr. Watson had +a fuller account to give: + + "I found him at table with Mrs. Washington and his private + family, and was received in the native dignity and with that + urbanity so peculiarly combined in the character of a soldier + and eminent private gentleman. He soon put me at ease.... The + first evening I spent under the wing of his hospitality, we + sat a full hour at table by ourselves, without the least + interruption, after the family had retired. I was extremely + oppressed by a severe cold and excessive coughing, contracted + by the exposure of a harsh winter journey. He pressed me to + use some remedies, but I declined doing so. As usual after + retiring, my coughing increased. When some time had elapsed, + the door of my room was gently opened, and on drawing my + bed-curtains, to my utter astonishment, I beheld Washington + himself, standing at my bedside, with a bowl of hot tea in + his hand." + +The following May Rev. Thomas Coke and Bishop Francis Asbury were +welcomed to Mt. Vernon. "The General's seat is very elegant," Mr. Coke +wrote. "He is quite the plain, country-Gentleman." After dinner the +visitors presented to their host a petition for the emancipation of +the Negroes, "entreating his signature, if the eminence of his station +did not render it inexpedient for him to sign any petition." +Washington told his guests that he was "of their sentiments, and had +signified his thoughts on the subject to most of the great men of the +State; that he did not see it proper to sign the petition, but if the +Assembly took it into consideration, would signify his sentiments to +the Assembly by a letter." + +An attractive picture of the General was given by Richard Henry Lee +after a visit to Mt. Vernon in November, 1785: + + "When I was first introduced to him he was neatly dressed in + a plain blue coat, white Casimer waistcoat, and black + breeches and Boots, as he came from his farm. After having + sat with us some time he retired.... Later he came in again, + with his hair neatly powdered, a clean shirt on, a new plain + drab Coat, white waistcoat and white silk stockings." + +John Hunter, who was with Colonel Lee, added his impression: + + "The style of his house is very elegant, something like the + Prince de Conde's at Chantilly, near Paris, only not quite so + large; but it's a pity he did not build a new one at once, as + it has cost him nearly as much as repairing his old one.... + It's astonishing what a number of small houses the General + has upon his Estate for his different Workmen and Negroes + to live in. He has everything within himself--Carpenters, + Bricklayers, Brewers, Blacksmiths, Bakers, etc., etc., and + even has a well assorted store for the use of his family and + servants." + +While the repairs were still in progress, the ship _Mary_ arrived at +Alexandria, having a consignment for Washington from Samuel Vaughan, a +great admirer in London. This was a chimney-piece, wrought in Italy +from pure white and sienite marble, for the use of Mr. Vaughan. When +the mantel reached England the owner learned of the improvements then +in progress at Mt. Vernon. Without unpacking the mantel he sent it on +to America. When Washington received word of the arrival of the gift, +he wrote, "By the number of cases, however, I greatly fear it is too +elegant and costly for my room and republican style of living." +Nevertheless the mantel was installed in the mansion and became a +great delight to the household. + +Washington's days at Mt. Vernon were interrupted by the renewed call +of his country. For much of the time for eight years he was compelled +to be absent, and when, at length, the opportunity came to resume the +free life on his estate, he had less than three years left. But these +years were crowded full of hospitality in the mansion and of joyous +work on the estate, and when, on December 14, 1799, he died as a +result of a cold caught while riding on the estate, he left it to his +"dearly beloved wife, Martha Washington." + +For many years Mt. Vernon continued its hospitable career. Then came +years of neglect, when the mansion was falling into ruins. But in +1853-56 Miss Ann Pamela Cunningham of South Carolina appealed to the +women of the nation, and succeeded in organizing an association that +took over the estate, restored it to its original condition, furnished +it with Washington relics gathered from far and near, and opened it +for the visits of the reverent visitors to the city of Washington, who +continue their journey sixteen miles down the Potomac that they may +look on the scene that brought joy to the heart of the Father of his +Country. + + + [Illustration: ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 246] + +LIII + +ARLINGTON, VIRGINIA + +FROM WHICH ROBERT E. LEE WENT TO BATTLE FOR THE SOUTH + +After the death of George Washington the Mt. Vernon family was +gradually broken up, one after another going elsewhere for a home. +George Washington Parke Custis, Washington's adopted son, and grandson +of Martha Washington, decided to build a home on a hill overlooking +the Potomac, opposite Washington City. There were eleven hundred acres +in the estate of which Arlington, the mansion he built in 1802, was +the central feature. + +It has been said that the stately house is an adaptation of the Doric +temple at Paestum, near Naples. The roof of the great portico rests on +eight massive columns. The rooms within are of a size in keeping with +the magnificent portal. + +Perhaps the plan was too ambitious for the Custis fortune. At any rate +the rooms on the south side of the hall were not completed. But it +was a famous house, nevertheless. Guests were many. They delighted to +look from the portico across the Potomac to Washington, where they +could see the government buildings slowly taking shape. + +One of the favored guests was Robert E. Lee. His frequent visits led +to his marriage, in 1831, to Mr. Custis' daughter. At this time Lee +was a lieutenant in the United States Army. Mrs. Lee remained at +Arlington, waiting for the husband whose military duties enabled him +to spend only brief seasons with her and the growing family there. + +During the years before the war visitors to the Capital City thronged +to Arlington. Some of them were interested in the many Washington +relics in the house. Chief among these was the bed on which Washington +died. Others came to the picnic grounds at Arlington Spring, which Mr. +Custis had opened for the pleasure of the people, building for the use +of all comers a great dining-hall, a dancing pavilion, and a kitchen. + +One of these visitors told his impressions of Arlington: + + "In front of the mansion, sloping toward the Potomac, is a + fine park of two hundred acres, dotted with groves of oak and + chestnut and clumps of evergreens; and behind it is a dark + old forest, with patriarchal trees bearing many centennial + honors, and covering six hundred acres of hill and dale. + Through a portion of this is a sinuous avenue leading up to + the mansion." + +At the time of the secession of Virginia, Robert E. Lee was a colonel. +Duty seemed clear to him. It was not easy for him to take up arms +against the United States Government, but he considered himself first +of all a citizen of his native State. To respond to the call of the +Confederacy meant ruin. His beautiful home, he feared, would be +destroyed. But he did not hesitate. A desire to retain possession of +his slaves had nothing to do with his decision. His own slaves had +already been freed, and provision had been made in the will of Mrs. +Lee's father that all his slaves should be freed in 1862. + +When, in 1865, General Lee was urged to prolong the conflict by +guerilla warfare, he said: "No, that would not do. It must be +remembered that we are Christian people. We have fought the fight as +long and as well as we know how. We have been defeated. For us as a +Christian people there is but one course to pursue. We must accept the +situation. These men must go home and plant a crop, and we must +proceed to build up our country on a new basis." + +But he could not return to Arlington. The government had taken +possession of the estate for a National Cemetery. For a time he lived +in obscurity on a little farm. Then he became President of Washington +College, later Washington and Lee University. With his family he lived +on the campus at Lexington, Virginia, and there he died, October 12, +1870. + +In the meantime the National Cemetery at Arlington was becoming a +pilgrimage point for patriotic Americans. The slopes of the beautiful +lawn were covered with graves. The stately white mansion, with its +eight great pillars and its walls of stucco seemed a fitting +background for the ranks of little white tombstones. + +For years the title to the property was in dispute. In 1864 the United +States bought it for $26,800, when it was sold at auction for +delinquent taxes. In 1882 the Supreme Court decided that G. W. C. Lee, +son of General Lee, was entitled to the property, and the following +year the government paid him $150,000 for eleven hundred acres, +including the mansion. + + + [Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA, VA. + Photo by H. P. Cook + See page 249] + +LIV + +CHRIST CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA + +WHERE WASHINGTON HAD A PEW "AT THE UPPER PART OF THE CHURCH" + +George Washington was chosen one of the vestrymen of Fairfax parish in +1764, when this was formed by the division of Truro parish, although +he was already a vestryman in Pohick Church at Truro. + +The records of the new parish show that in 1766 it was decided to +build Christ Church at Alexandria, and a second church at the Falls of +the Potomac instead of the old church there. The members of the parish +were asked to pay thirty-one thousand pounds of tobacco for the +purpose of construction. + +James Wren, the architect of Christ Church, is said to have been a +descendant of Sir Christopher Wren. While the building was well +designed, no one ever thought of it as a masterpiece. But it has +answered the purposes of the worshipper for more than a century and a +half, and it promises to last at least a hundred and fifty years more. + +The original contract called for the expenditure of L600. Colonel John +Carlisle, who was bondsman for the contractor, James Parsons, in +1772, agreed to complete the building on payment of L220 additional, +since Parsons failed to fulfil his agreement. + +The church was built of brick, and was sixty by fifty feet long. The +work was carefully done, but the structure was ready for the vestry to +take possession early in 1773. + +At the first sale of pews, of which there were fifty in all, +Washington paid L36 10 s. for pew number five. He had already made a +generous gift toward the building fund, but asked the privilege of +giving the brass chandelier which still hangs from the ceiling. + +When the Church and State were separated in Virginia, after the +Revolution, Washington subscribed five pounds a year to the rector's +salary. By act of the legislature the glebe lands of churches in the +State were confiscated, but, through the influence of Washington and +Charles Lee, Christ Church "and one other" (probably Falls Church) +were allowed to retain their lands. + +Many changes have been made in the building. The gallery was added in +1787, that twenty-five pews might be provided for the growing +congregation. The west aisle was built in 1811, and the next year the +chimneys were built, for stoves were placed in the church at that +time. The bell was hung in 1816. The pews were later divided, +including that which Washington occupied, but this pew has since been +restored to its original condition. Since 1891 the high pulpit and +sounding board have been replaced as they were at first. + +Washington's diary tells of his attendance at service on Sunday, June +2, 1799. Perhaps it was of this Sunday a visitor to Alexandria wrote +in a letter to a friend, which was quoted in "The Religious Opinions +and Character of George Washington," published in 1836. The writer +said: + + "In the summer of 1799 I was in Alexandria on a visit to the + family of Mr. H.... Whilst there, I expressed a wish to see + General Washington, as I had never enjoyed that pleasure. My + friend ... observed: 'You will certainly see him on Sunday, + as he is never absent from church when he can get there; and + as he often dines with us, we will ask him on that day, when + you will have a better opportunity of seeing him.' + Accordingly, we all repaired to church on Sunday.... General + Washington ... walked to his pew, at the upper part of the + church, and demeaned himself throughout the service of the + day with that gravity and propriety becoming the place and + his own high character. After the services were concluded, we + waited for him at the door, for his pew being near the pulpit + he was among the last that came out--when Mrs. H. invited him + to dine with us. He declined, however, the invitation, + observing, as he looked at the sky, that he thought there + were appearances of a thunderstorm in the afternoon, and he + believed he would return home to dinner." + + + [Illustration: MARY WASHINGTON'S HOUSE, FREDERICKSBURG, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 251] + +LV + +THE MARY WASHINGTON HOUSE, FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA + +WHERE WASHINGTON'S MOTHER SPENT HER LAST YEARS + +The first property mentioned in connection with the name of Mary Ball, +who became the mother of George Washington, was on the tract of four +hundred acres "in ye freshes of Rappa-h-n River," bequeathed to her in +her father's will before she was six years old. Her father, Colonel +Joseph Ball of Epping Forest, Lancaster County, thought he was about +to die, but he lived some years longer. + +Ten years later an unknown writer spoke of Mary Ball in pleasing +terms: + + "WmsBurg, ye 7th of Octr, 1722. + + "Dear Sukey, Madam Ball of Lancaster and her sweet Molly have + gone Hom. Mama thinks Molly the Comliest Maiden She Knows. + She is about 16 yrs old, is taller than Me, is verry + Sensable, Modest and Loving. Her Hair is like unto Flax, Her + Eyes are the color of Yours, and her Chekes are like May + blossoms. I wish You could see Her." + +This "Belle of the Northern Neck," as she came to be called, continued +her conquests of young and old until, at twenty-two, an orphan, she +left Epping Forest to live with her brother, Joseph Ball, at +"Stratford-by-bow, Nigh London." There, on March 6, 1730, she became +the second wife of Augustine Washington, the second son of Laurence +Washington, who was visiting England at the time. + +Less than two years later, at Wakefield, on the Potomac, in +Westmoreland County, Virginia, George Washington was born. He was not +three years old when the mansion was burned. + +The new home was at Pine Grove, in Stafford County, on the +Rappahannock River, opposite Fredericksburg. For eight years the +family circle was unbroken, but on April 12, 1743, Augustine +Washington died. Laurence Washington, Mary Washington's stepson, then +became the owner of Mt. Vernon, while to George Washington was +bequeathed Pine Grove, though the estate was to be managed by Mrs. +Washington until the son became twenty-one. + +With wonderful skill Mrs. Washington directed the plantation and with +firm purpose she devoted herself to the care of her five fatherless +children. + +A picture of this capable woman at this period was recorded by +Laurence Washington, a nephew of George Washington's father. He wrote: + + "I was often there [at Pine Grove] with George, his playmate, + schoolmate, and young man's companion. Of the mother, I was + more afraid than of my own parents; she awed me in the midst + of her kindness; and even now, when time has whitened my + locks and I am the grandfather of a second generation, I + could not behold that majestic woman without feelings it is + impossible to describe." + +The death, in 1752, of Laurence Washington of Mt. Vernon made George +Washington the owner of that property. Thereafter the twenty-five +hundred acre estate became known as the home of the eldest son, while +Mrs. Washington remained at Pine Grove with her younger children. + +Only a few months later he stopped to see his mother, as he was on his +way to the West to carry out a commission laid upon him by Governor +Dinwiddie. As Mrs. Washington bade her son good-bye, she urged him to +"remember that God only is our sure trust." Then she added, "To Him I +commend you." + +Her words were remembered. In 1755, when General Braddock asked +Colonel Washington to accompany him to Fort Pitt, Mrs. Washington +hurried to Mt. Vernon and urged him not to go. He considered her +objections, but said: + + "The God to whom you commended me, madam, when I set out on a + more perilous errand, defended me from all harm, and I trust + He will do so now; do you?" + +One by one the children left Pine Grove. In 1750 Betty Washington was +married to Colonel Fielding Lewis, who built for her the stately house +Kenmore, not far from her mother's home, but across the river, on the +edge of Fredericksburg. This house is still among the show places of +the old town. + +In the early days of the Revolution Colonel and Mrs. Lewis tried to +persuade Mrs. Washington that she was getting too old to live alone at +Pine Grove, and urged her to make her home at Kenmore. At the same +time Colonel Lewis offered to take over the management of the +plantation. To both entreaties she turned a deaf ear; she said she +felt entirely competent to take care of herself, and she would manage +her own farm. + +However, she consented to make her home in a house purchased for her +in Fredericksburg, because "George thought it best." The dutiful son +had time to help in the flitting to the new home before he hurried to +the North. He was not to see her again for seven long years. + +A member of the family described later the days of waiting when Mary +Washington directed her household in the preparation of clothes, +provisions, and other comforts for the General and his associates: +"During the trying years when her son was leading the Continental +forces, the mother was watching and praying, following him with +anxious eyes," the story is told. "But to the messenger who brought +tidings, whether of victory or defeat, she turned a calm face, +whatever tremor of feeling it might mask, and to her daughter she +said, chiding her for undue excitement, 'The sister of the commanding +general should be an example of fortitude and faith.'" + +It was November 11, 1781, when the victorious commander next saw +Fredericksburg, on his way to Philadelphia from Yorktown. George +Washington Parke Custis has described the meeting with his mother: + + "She was alone, her aged hands employed in the works of + domestic industry, when the good news was announced, and it + was told that the victor was awaiting at the threshold. She + bade him welcome by a warm embrace, and by the + well-remembered and endearing name of George.... She inquired + as to his health, for she marked the lines which mighty cares + and toils had made in his manly countenance, and she spoke + much of old times and old friends, but of his glory not one + word." + +When the Peace Ball was given in Fredericksburg she was an honored +guest. Her son walked with her into the gaily decorated ballroom. She +remained for a time, but after a while, from the seat where she had +watched the dance, she called him to her side. When she was near she +said, "Come, George, it is time for old folks to be at home." + +Lafayette visited Fredericksburg in 1784, that he might pay his +respects to Mrs. Washington. He found her in her garden, dressed in a +short linsey skirt, working among her flowers. After his visit he +declared, "I have seen the only Roman matron living at this day." + +She still went frequently to her plantation across the river, but as +she became more feeble her son gave her a phaeton in which she could +cross the ferry in comfort. Her great-granddaughter has written of her +appearance when she rolled in the phaeton down the village street: + + "In summer she wore a dark straw hat with broad brim and low + crown, tied under her chin with black ribbon strings; but in + winter a warm hood was substituted, and she was wrapped in + the purple cloth cloak lined with silk shang (a present from + her son George) that is described in the bequests of her + will. In her hand she carried her gold-headed cane, which + feeble health now rendered necessary as a support." + +One of the last visits paid by George Washington to his mother was on +March 7, 1789. A Fredericksburg paper of March 12 said, "The object of +his Excellency's visit was probably to take leave of his aged mother, +sister, and friends, previous to his departure for the new Congress, +over the councils of which, the united voice of America has called him +to preside." On March 11 Washington's account book shows that the +expenses of the trip were L1.8.0. He also noted that he advanced to +his mother at the time "6 Guineas." + +At New York, on September 1, 1789, President Washington was dining +with friends when a messenger brought word of the death of Mrs. +Washington. The notice of her death, as given in the _Gazette of the +United States_, on September 9, read: + + "Fredericksburg, Virginia, August 27, 1789--On Tuesday, the + 25th inst. died at her home in this town, Mrs. Mary + Washington, aged 83 years, the venerable mother of the + illustrious President of the United States, after a long and + painful indisposition, which she bore with uncommon + patience. Though a pious tear of duty, affection, and esteem + is due to the memory of so revered a character, yet our grief + must be greatly alleviated from the consideration that she is + relieved from the pitiable infirmities attendant on an + extreme old age.--It is usual when virtuous and conspicuous + persons quit this terrestrial abode, to publish an elaborate + panegyric on their characters--suffice it to say, she + conducted herself through this transitory life with virtue, + prudence, and Christianity, worthy the mother of the grandest + Hero that ever adorned the annals of history." + + "O may kind heaven, propitious to our fate, + Extend THAT HERO'S to her lengthen'd date; + Through the long period, healthy, active, sage; + Nor know the sad infirmities of age." + +The house in Fredericksburg which was occupied after 1775 by Mrs. +Washington, is now the property of the Association for the +Preservation of Virginian Antiquities. + + +LVI + +GREENWAY AND SHERWOOD FOREST, VIRGINIA + +TWO OF THE HOMES OF JOHN TYLER + +A little girl was responsible for the fact that John Tyler, who became +the tenth president of the United States, was born, not at Marlie, but +at Greenway. Marlie was the name chosen by Judge John Tyler for his +James River estate, but his young daughter, Anne Contesse, as soon as +she began to talk, insisted on calling it "Greenway," "because the +grass grows so green there." + +The fact that Anne's name displaced that chosen by her father is an +indication of his great love for children. Greenway was "a bird's nest +full of young," but at various times he added to his own flock one or +another of twenty-one children, of whom he was made guardian, all of +whom he guided through childhood to earnest manhood and womanhood. + +These children must have enjoyed roaming about the estate, for, +according to Judge Tyler's description, it was a delightful place. He +said of it: + + "Greenway contains five hundred acres, well improved. On it + is a genteel, well-furnished dwelling-house, containing six + rooms, all wainscoted, chair-board high, with fine dry + cellars the full length of the house, which is 56 feet; also + every other building which a reasonable person could wish or + desire, to wit: a handsome study, storehouse, kitchen, + laundry, dairy, meat-house, spring-house, and an ice-house + within the curtelage; a barn 40 by 34 feet, two granaries, + two carriage houses, 20 stalls for horses, a quarter for + house servants; a handsome pigeon-house, well stocked; and + several other houses for slaves; a well of water (so + excellent that I can drink with delight after returning from + a mountain circuit), a large, fertile garden, abounding with + a great variety of shrubs, herbs, and beautiful flowers, well + enclosed. The buildings new and well covered with shingles." + +On this attractive estate John Tyler was born on March 29, 1790. He +was a slender, delicate-looking lad, but he was not afraid to stand up +for himself when he felt he was being abused. His first schoolmaster, +a Mr. McMurdo, who taught across the road from Greenway, thought that +it was impossible to teach well unless the rod was in daily use. "It +was a wonder that he did not whip all the sense out of his scholars," +John said once, years later. But one day the boys rebelled. "John and +some of the larger boys tripped him up, and began to tie his hands and +feet," the Tyler family biographer tells the story. "McMurdo scuffled +bravely, but upon little William Tyler, the smallest boy in school, +throwing himself upon him, he exclaimed, in imitation of the great +Roman, '_Et tu, Brute!_' and ceased to resist. The boys firmly secured +him, locked him up in the schoolhouse, and left with cheers of triumph +and derision." + +Hours later the schoolmaster was released by a passing traveller, who +heard his cries. At once the enraged man hastened to Judge Tyler and +told his story. "But the Judge, born and bred in the Revolutionary +school, hated tyranny in any shape, and as he drew himself up to his +full stature, he ... replied, in the language of Virginia's motto, +_'Sic Semper Tyrannis_.'" + +At the age of twelve John entered the grammar school of William and +Mary College at Williamsburg. There he had a good time, and he made a +creditable showing in his classes. Yet that he did not advance in at +least one study is evident from a letter written by his father in +1807. He said: + + "I can't help telling you how much I am mortified to find no + improvement in your handwriting; neither do you construct + your lines straight, which makes your letters look too + abominable. It is an easy thing to correct this fault, and + unless you do so, how can you be fit for law business?" + +Some years later, when Judge Tyler was Governor of Virginia, he +announced impressively to John that Thomas Jefferson would be among +the dinner guests on a certain day. "Be sure you have a good dinner," +the Governor added; for John was at the time in charge of the +establishment. The future President asked himself, "What is the best +thing for dinner?" "Plum pudding!" was the answer. + +The appointed time came. The company was seated at table. The first +course was served. Then came a long wait. + + "Suddenly a door flew open, and a negro servant appeared, + bearing, with both hands raised high above his head, a + smoking dish of plum pudding. Making a grand flourish, the + servant deposited it before Governor Tyler. Scarcely had he + withdrawn before another door flew open, and an attendant, + dressed exactly like the first, was seen bringing another + plum pudding, equally hot, which at a grave nod from John, he + placed before Mr. Jefferson. The Governor, who expected a + little more variety, turned to his son, who sat surveying the + puddings with tender interest, and exclaimed, in accents of + astonishment, 'Two plum puddings, John, two plum puddings! + Why, this is rather extraordinary!' 'Yes, sir,' said the + enterprising major domo, 'it is extraordinary; but' (and here + he rose and bowed deferentially to Mr. Jefferson) 'it is an + extraordinary occasion.'" + +In 1813, John Tyler married Letitia Christian. They did not make their +home at Greenway, however. On the death of Judge Tyler the old house +was sold, but it became the property of John Tyler in 1821. There he +retired for the season of rest which he sorely needed after his +strenuous years as a member of the House of Delegates, and +Representative in Congress. During the intervals of his service as +Governor and United States Senator he resided at the old home, but in +1829 he sold the property, and removed to Gloucester County, to an +estate which he took for debt. Eighteen years later, at the close of +his presidential term, he returned, with his bride, the second Mrs. +Tyler, to the county where he was born, having bought an estate of +twelve hundred acres, three miles from Greenway, on the north side of +the James, opposite Brandon. He tore down the old house on the estate, +and built a house on the same plan, which, with its connected +out-buildings, was more than two hundred feet long. He called his +place "Sherwood Forest," with grim humor; for was he not an outlaw, in +the opinion of the Whigs, just as really as was Robin Hood? + +Not long after the beginning of life at Sherwood Forest he was +appointed overseer of the road on which his estate was located. Some +claimed that this appointment was secured by the Whigs to humiliate +him. But he refused to be humiliated. Instead he determined to be a +good overseer and make the road the best in the State. All the men in +the township were called, and they were kept at work day after day, +as, according to law, he had a right to keep them. But it was harvest +time, and the wheat was dead ripe. "The smiles that lately illuminated +the countenances of the Whigs turned to dismay. The august justice who +had made the appointment repaired to Mr. Tyler's house, and +represented to him the state of things. Mr. Tyler replied that the law +made it his duty to put the road in good order, and to keep it so. The +Whigs expostulated. Mr. Tyler was firm. Then the justice begged him to +resign, and let the hands go home. The ex-President said, 'Offices +are hard to obtain in these times, and having no assurance that I can +ever get another, I cannot think, under the circumstances, of +resigning.'" + +One of the statesman's valued companions during these early years at +Sherwood Forest was "General," the old horse which he had owned for +many years. At length the horse died, and was buried in the grave at +Sherwood Forest. On a wooden slab at the head of the grave the owner +wrote: + + "Here lieth the bones of my old horse, General, who served + his master faithfully for twenty-seven years, and never + blundered but once--would that his master could say the + same!" + +The last years of John Tyler's life witnessed the return of his +popularity. Enemies became friends, and all rejoiced to do him honor. +He was called to a number of honorable posts, and he was about to take +his seat as a member of the House of Representatives of the +Confederate Congress when he died, in Richmond, on January 18, 1862. + + + [Illustration: HANOVER COURT HOUSE, VIRGINIA + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 262] + +LVII + +TWO HISTORIC COURTHOUSES OF VIRGINIA + +OLD DOMINION COUNTY BUILDINGS AT HANOVER AND WILLIAMSBURG + +A momentous announcement appeared in the Williamsburg, Virginia, +_Gazette_ on March 16, 1769: + + "The Common Hall having this day determined to build a + commodious brick court-house in this city and having + appointed us to agree with and undertake to build the same, + we do hereby give notice that we shall meet at Mr. Hay's (the + Raleigh Tavern) on Tuesday, the 4th of April, to let the + building thereof; we are also appointed to dispose of the + present court-house, and the ground on which the same stands. + James Cock, John Carter, James Carter, John Tazewell." + +The building displaced by the new structure was erected in 1716 by +William Levington, and was given to the city in 1745 by "the Gentlemen +subscribers for the Play House." + +The stone steps on the new building, which are still in use, were +brought from England in 1772. A copy of the letter in which William +Wilson acknowledged their receipt is in a letter book preserved in the +library of the Episcopal Seminary, near Alexandria. + +During the Revolution, the patriots were called together, from time to +time, by the bell in the picturesque tower. It was fitting, then, that +when American independence was celebrated at Williamsburg, on May 1, +1783, the Courthouse was made the rallying place for the people. On +receipt of official notice from Governor Benjamin Harrison that the +treaty of peace had been signed, the mayor of Williamsburg prepared an +"Order of the Procession on the Great Day," which closed with the +following direction: + + "The Citizens to be Conveyed on Thursday, at 1 o'clock at the + Court-House by a Bellman. + + "After the convention of citizens they are to make + proclamation at the C: House, after which the Bells at the + Church, College, & Capitol are to ring in peal. + + "From the Ct House the Citizens are to proceed to the + College, and make proclamation at that place, from whence + they are to proceed to the Capitol and make proclamation + there and from thence Proceed to the Raleigh (Tavern) & pass + the rest of the day." + +A frequent visitor to the Williamsburg Courthouse was the brilliant +lawyer Patrick Henry, whose reputation as an orator was made long +before he delivered his "Give me Liberty or Give me Death" speech at +St. John's Church, Richmond. + +Some years before the Williamsburg Courthouse was erected, this orator +made his first public speech, at Hanover Courthouse, a building that +dates from 1735, in the celebrated suit of the clergy demanding the +payment of their stipends in tobacco, according to law. In consequence +of a short crop the price had increased, and they insisted that it was +their right to have the advantage of the increase. Their case had been +tried once and won. The attorney of the people thereupon withdrew, and +Henry was engaged to appear for them in court. + +When the case was called, Rev. Patrick Henry was present, to the +regret of his nephew. The lawyer sought his uncle and said that he +feared he would be too much overawed by his presence to do his duty to +his clients, and added that he would be compelled to say some "very +hard things of the clergy." The minister thereupon entered his +carriage, and drove away. + +William Wirt describes the scene at the opening of the case: + + "On the bench sat more than twenty clergymen, the most + learned men in the Colony, and the most capable, as well as + the severest critics before whom it was possible for him to + have made his debut. The Court House was crowded with an + overwhelming multitude, and surrounded with an immense and + anxious throng, who, not finding room to enter, were + endeavoring to listen without, in the deepest attention. But + there was something still more awfully disconcerting than all + this; for in the chair of the presiding magistrate, sat no + other person than his own father.... + + "And now came on the first trial of Patrick Henry's strength. + No one had ever heard him speak, and curiosity was on tiptoe. + He rose very awkwardly, and faltered much in his exordium. + The people hung their heads at so unpromising a commencement; + the clergy were observed to exchange sly looks with each + other, and the father is described as having almost sunk with + confusion, from his seat. But these feelings were of short + duration, and soon gave place to others, of a very different + character.... The spirit of his genius awakened all his + features.... His action became graceful, bold, and + commanding; and in the tones of his voice, but more + especially in his emphasis, there was a peculiar charm, a + magic, of which any one who ever heard him will speak as soon + as he is named, but of which no one can give any adequate + description.... + + "The people, whose countenances had fallen as he arose, had + heard but very few sentences before they began to look up; + then to look at each other with surprise, as if doubting the + evidence of their own senses.... In less than twenty minutes, + they might be seen in every part of the house, on every + bench, in every window, stooping forward from their stands, + in deathlike silence.... The mockery of the clergy was soon + turned into alarm; their triumph into confusion and despair; + and at one burst of his rapid and overwhelming invective, + they fled from the bench in precipitation and terror. As for + the father, such was his surprise, such his amazement, such + his rapture, that, forgetting where he was, and the character + which he was filling, tears of ecstasy streamed down his + cheeks without the power or inclination to restrain them." + +The case was won. As soon as the verdict was announced the people +seized the orator at the bar and bore him out of the courthouse. Then, +raising him on their shoulders, they carried him about the yard. + + + [Illustration: ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, RICHMOND, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 266] + +LVIII + +ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, RICHMOND + +WHERE PATRICK HENRY SAID, "GIVE ME LIBERTY, OR GIVE ME DEATH" + +In 1611 Sir Thomas Dale founded his town of Henricopolis, the second +established settlement in Virginia. It was named in honor of Prince +Henry, the eldest son of James I. A church was soon after built. The +bounds of Henrico parish, to which it belonged, were quite large until +1634, when the parish was made to include the present Chesterfield, +Powhatan, and Goochland counties. + +Soon after the marriage of Pocahontas she moved to the plantation of +her husband, John Rolfe, near Henricopolis, and they were both members +of Henrico parish until they left Virginia. + +The written records of Henrico parish begin with 1730. At that time +the principal church of the parish was on Curle's plantation, on the +north side of the James, some miles below the present city of +Richmond. Curle's church disappeared during the Civil War. The bowl of +the baptismal font in St. John's Church, Richmond, is a relic of the +old church. This was removed from the cellar of a house where it had +been in use for beating hominy. + +Steps were taken in 1737 to build the present St. John's Church, +because of the increase of population in Richmond. The first action +was recorded as follows: + + "At a Vestry held at Curls Church for Henrico parish ye 8th + day of October Anno Dom. 1737 for laying ye parish Levey-- + + "The Vestry do agree to build a Church on the most convenient + place at or near Thomas Williamsons in this parish to be + Sixty feet in Length and Twenty-five in Breadth and fourteen + feet pitch to be finished in a plain Manner After the Moddle + of Curls Church. And it is ordered that the Clerk do Set up + Advertisements of the particular parts of the Said Building + and of the time and place of undertaking the Same.... It is + ordered that the Collector do receive of every Tithable + person in this parish five pounds of Tobacco after the Usual + deduction to be apply'd towards building the New Church at + Williamsons." + +At a later meeting the location and the dimensions of the church were +changed. Richmond was decided on, and it was stated that "Richard +Randolph Gent undertakes the Said Building and engages to finish the +Same by the Tenth day of June, which Shall be in the year of our Lord +1741; for which the Vestry agrees to pay him the Sum of L317 10s. +Current Money to be paid by the amount of the Sale of Twenty thousand +pounds of Tob'o Annually to be Levyd on the parish and Sold here for +Money till the whole payment be compleat." + +There is no record of the completion of the building, but probably it +was finished at the appointed time. Since that date various additions +have been made, yet it is possible to trace the lines of the original +structure. The original pews are still in use, though they have been +lowered. The hinges of the pew doors are handwrought. The wainscoting +and the window sashes are those first put in. The original +weather-boarding is still in place. It is fastened by nails whose +heads are half an inch broad. + +For the new church there were imported from England: + + "One Parsons Surples, a Pulpit Cushen and Cloth, two cloths + for Reading Desks, a Communion Table Cloth, and a Dozen of + Cushens--to be of good Purple Cloth, and the Surples good + Hollond, also Large Bible and four large Prayer Books." + +An entry in the vestry book on December 17, 1773, shows that the +rector, Mr. Selden, received as salary 17,150 pounds of tobacco, worth +L125. The clerk of the parish received 1,789 pounds of tobacco, or L13 +10s., the sexton had 536 pounds, or L3.10s.7d. + +Selden was chaplain of the Virginia Convention which met in the church +March 20, 1775. At the closing session of this convention Patrick +Henry "flashed the electric spark, which exploded the country in +revolution," as Burton says in his history of Henrico Parish. This was +the speech that closed: + + "Gentlemen may cry peace, peace, but there is no peace. The + war is actually begun! The next gale that sweeps from the + north will bring to our ears the clash of resounding arms! + Our brethren are already in the field! Why stand here idle? + What is it that gentlemen wish? What would they have? Is life + so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price + of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God. I know not + what course others may take, but as for me, Give me liberty, + or give me death." + +Dr. Burton says that the orator "stood, according to tradition, near +the present corner of the east transept and the nave, or more exactly, +in pew 47, in the east aisle of the nave.... He faced the eastern wall +of the transept, where were the two windows. In the more northern of +these stood Colonel Edward Carrington. He broke the silence that +followed the orator's burning words with the exclamation, 'Right here +I wish to be buried!'" + +When the British took possession of Richmond in 1781, St. John's +Church became a barracks for Arnold's men. And some of them stood on +the spot where Patrick Henry spoke the words that had such large part +in stirring up the people to drive all British soldiers from the +Colonies. + +After the close of the war the diocese of Virginia was reorganized in +the building, and plans were laid to overcome the difficulties that +would soon come through the loss of the property of the Protestant +Episcopal Church, which led Edmund Randolph, later Governor of +Virginia and Secretary of State in Washington's Cabinet, to speak the +famous words: + + "Of what is the Church now possessed? Nothing but the glebes + and your affections." + +That the affections of the people are a better dependence than rich +endowments in money has been shown by the later history of the church, +the parish, and the diocese. + + + [Illustration: NELSON HOUSE, YORKTOWN, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 270] + +LIX + +THE NELSON HOUSE AND THE MOORE HOUSE, YORKTOWN, VIRGINIA + +MADE MEMORABLE BY THE BATTLE OF YORKTOWN AND THE SURRENDER OF +CORNWALLIS + +One day in 1740 a baby a little more than one year old, whose name was +Thomas Nelson, stood by the side of his father, William Nelson, as the +father was about to lay the foundation of his new home in York, +Virginia. The babe had been stationed there that the brick for the +corner might be placed in the little hands; then it could be said in +later years that the babe had helped in the exercises of the day. The +little fellow became a Signer of the Declaration of Independence, a +General in the Revolutionary War, and Governor of Virginia. + +William Nelson was a merchant, who had invested his savings in land +and had become quite wealthy. When his son was fourteen years old he +was able to send him to Cambridge, England, to be educated. Nine years +later the young man married Lucy Grymes of Brandon, and took up his +residence in the house whose foundation he had helped to lay. + +For many years the home of the young people was noted for the +hospitality shown there. Whenever the owner could leave his guests, he +rode to his plantation near town. He kept a pack of hounds, which were +frequently employed in fox hunting. + +When discontent against England became pronounced, he was a leader of +the patriots. He was a member of the House of Burgesses of 1774 which +was dissolved by Lord Dunmore because of the passage of a resolution +against the Boston Port Bill, and he was one of the eighty-nine men +who met next day at a tavern and took action that led to the first +Continental Congress. + +On July 17, when the Convention of Virginia delegates gathered in +Richmond decided to raise three regiments for home defence, Patrick +Henry was named as commander of the first while Nelson was put in +charge of the second. + +He was among the patriots who sat in the Continental Congress of 1775, +1776, and 1777, and his name was signed to the Declaration of +Independence. On August 16, 1777, he retired from public service +because of failing health, but when, a little later, the Governor of +Virginia, fearing the approach of the British fleet, asked him to +serve as brigadier general and commander-in-chief of the forces of the +State, he agreed, on condition that he be excused from accepting +payment for his services. + +During the siege of Yorktown he was at the head of the militia. The +sketch of his life as given by Sanderson in the "Biography of the +Signers," says: "During the siege, observing his own house uninjured +by the artillery of the American batteries he inquired the cause. A +respect for his property, was assigned. Nelson ... requested that the +artillerists would not spare his house more than any other, especially +as he knew it to be occupied by the principal officers of the British +Army. Two pieces were accordingly pointed against it. The first shot +went through the house and killed two ... officers.... Other balls +soon dislodged the hostile tenants." It is said that Nelson gave ten +guineas reward to the man who fired the first shot. + +Again Thomas Nelson responded to the call of his State when in June, +1781, he became Governor, succeeding Thomas Jefferson. Four months +after the beginning of his term as chief executive of the State, +George Washington, in general orders, said: + + "The General would be guilty of the highest ingratitude, a + crime of which he hopes he shall never be accused, if he + forgot to return his sincere acknowledgments to his + excellency governor Nelson, for the succours which he + received from him and the militia under his command, to whose + activity, emulation, and bravery, the highest praises are + due. The magnitude of the acquisition will be ample + compensation for the difficulties and dangers which they met + with so much firmness and patriotism." + +Nelson's term as Governor was shortened by ill health. In November, +1781, he was compelled to resign. + +But he was not permitted to rest. Attacks were made on him for certain +courses taken during his term as Governor. When he asked and was given +permission to defend himself before the State delegates, he was +triumphantly acquitted of all blame. On December 31, 1781, this action +was recorded: + + "An act to indemnify THOMAS NELSON, JUNIOR, Esquire, late + governor of this commonwealth, and to legalize certain acts + of his administration. Whereas, upon examination, it appears + that previous to and during the siege of York, Thomas Nelson, + Esquire, late governor of this commonwealth, was compelled by + the peculiar circumstances of the state and army, to perform + many acts of government without the advice of the council of + state, for the purpose of procuring subsistence for the + allied army under the command of his excellency general + Washington; be it enacted that all such acts of government, + evidently productive of general good, and warranted by + necessity, be judged and held of the same validity, and the + like proceedings be had on them as if they had been executed + by and with the advice of the council, and with all the + formality prescribed by law. And be it enacted that the said + Thomas Nelson, jr., Esquire, be and he hereby is in the + fullest manner indemnified and exonerated from all penalties + and dangers which might have accrued to him from the same." + +Nelson lived more than seven years after this act approving his +emergency actions. But three years were spent in comparative poverty. +Most of his property was sold to satisfy the debts incurred by paying +two regiments out of his own pocket, and by going security, with the +State, for two million dollars needed to carry on the war. Sanderson +says of these acts of generosity: + + "He had spent a princely fortune in his country's service; + his horses had been taken from the plough, and sent to drag + the munitions of war; his granaries had been thrown open to a + starving soldiery, and his ample purse had been drained to + its last dollar, when the credit of Virginia could not bring + a sixpence into her treasury. Yet it was the widow of this + man who, beyond eighty years of age, blind, infirm, and poor, + had yet to learn whether republics can be grateful." + +On the simple gravestone in Yorktown, erected to the memory of the +patriot, is this eloquent inscription: + + Thomas Nelson, + Governor of Virginia. + He Gave All for Liberty. + +Not far from the grave is another historic house that should be named +with the Nelson house. This is the Moore house, on Temple farm, then +less than a mile from Yorktown. In this house, which was built in +1713, the terms of the surrender of Cornwallis were drawn up. It was +once the summer home of the colonial governor, Alexander Spottswood. + + +LX + +THE JOHN MARSHALL HOUSE, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA + +WHERE THE CHIEF JUSTICE CARED FOR HIS WIFE AND ENTERTAINED HIS FRIENDS + +An old book, "Richmond in By Gone Days," says that John Marshall was +noted in Richmond for his unpretending manner. "His dress was plain +even to negligence. He marketed for himself and might be seen at an +early hour returning home with a pair of fowls, or a basket of eggs in +his hand, not with ostentatious humility, but for mere convenience." + +It is related by Flanders that Marshall "was one morning strolling +through the streets of Richmond, attired in a plain linen roundabout +and shorts, with his hat under his arm, from which he was eating +cherries, when he stopped in the porch of the Eagle Hotel, indulged in +some little pleasantry with the landlord, and then passed on." Just +then a man from the country, who wished a lawyer to appear for him in +court, was referred by the landlord to Marshall, as the best advocate +he could have, but the countryman declined to have anything to do with +the careless young man. In court he asked the clerk for a lawyer, and +was once more recommended to take John Marshall. Again he refused. +Just then a dignified old man in powdered wig and black coat entered. +He was at once engaged, on his appearance. After a time the +inferiority of the black-coated lawyer was so apparent that the +countryman sought Marshall, told him of the mistake he had made, said +that he had left but five dollars of the one hundred dollars he had +set aside for lawyers' fees, and asked Marshall if he would assist on +the case. The lawyer laughingly agreed. + +In 1781, when Marshall was twenty-five years old, he walked from +Virginia to Philadelphia, to be inoculated for smallpox. "He walked at +the rate of thirty-five miles a day. On his arrival, such was his +shabby appearance, that he was refused admission into one of the +hotels; his long beard, and worn-out garments, probably suggesting the +idea that his purse was not adequate to his entertainment. And this in +the city which had seen much of the young man's heroic services during +the Revolution!" + +Before the close of the war, while visiting his father, Colonel +Marshall, who was the commanding officer at Yorktown, Virginia, he met +Mary Willis Ambler, a daughter of Jacqueline Ambler, the treasurer of +Virginia. "She was just fourteen years of age at the time, and it is +stated to have been a case of love at first sight." Even when Marshall +called to see her he was not prepossessing in appearance, yet he was +well received, "notwithstanding his slouched hat, and negligent and +awkward dress," for his amiable manners, fine talents, and especially +his love for poetry, which he read to them with deep pathos, led them +to forget his dress. + +The young people were married on January 3, 1783. After paying the fee +of the minister, the groom's sole remaining fortune was a guinea! + +Mrs. Marshall was for many years a nervous invalid. Bishop Meade says, +"The least noise was sometimes agony to her whole frame, and his +perpetual endeavor was to keep the house and yard and out-houses from +the slightest cause of distressing her; walking himself at times about +the house and yard without shoes." The attitude of the people of +Richmond to the husband and wife is shown by the fact that "on one +occasion, when she was in her most distressing state, the town +authorities manifested their great respect for him and sympathy for +her, by having either the town clock or town bell muffled." + +On his marriage John Marshall took his wife to one of the best houses +then available in the village of Richmond, a two-room frame building. +In 1789 he bought two acres of ground on Shockoe Hill, and here, in +1793, he built a nine-room brick house. One of the rooms was a large +apartment, in which he gave his famous "lawyer dinners." + +When Marshall was not in Washington, he lived in this comfortable +house, which was near the home of his father-in-law. He had also a +farm a few miles from Richmond. Bishop Meade says that one morning, +between daybreak and sunrise, he met Marshall on horseback. He had a +bag of clover seed lying before him, which he was carrying to his +farm. + +An English traveller who spent a week in Richmond in 1835 gave his +impression of the Richmond home: + + "The house is small, and more humble in appearance than those + of the average of successful lawyers and merchants. I called + there three times upon him; there is no bell to the door. + Once I turned the handle of it and walked in unannounced; on + the other two occasions he had seen me coming, and had lifted + the latch and received me at the door, although he was at the + time suffering from severe contusions received in the stage + while travelling on the road from Fredericksburg to + Richmond." + +Chief Justice Marshall frequently attended the Monumental Church. The +narrow pews troubled him, for he was quite tall. "Not finding room +enough for his whole body within the pew, he used to take his seat +nearest the door of his pew, and, throwing it open, let his legs +stretch a little into the aisle." + +The death of his wife was a great grief to him. "Never can I cease to +feel the loss and to deplore it," he wrote on December 25, 1832, the +anniversary of her death. "Grief for her is too sacred ever to be +profaned on this day, which shall be, during my existence, marked by a +recollection of her virtues." + +He survived Mrs. Marshall less than five years. In June, 1835, he went +to Dr. Physic in Philadelphia, seeking relief for a disability that +had been aggravated by the road accident of which the English visitor +wrote, as already quoted. There he died, July 6, 1835. On July 4 he +wrote the inscription which he wished placed above his grave: + + "John Marshall, son of Thomas and Mary Marshall, was born on + the 24th of September, 1755, intermarried with Mary Willis + Ambler the 3rd of January, 1783, departed this life the ---- + day of ---- 18 ---- ." + +The Marshall house is now in possession of the Society for the +Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, having been purchased a few +years ago from the Misses Harvie, the granddaughters of Chief Justice +Marshall. They had lived in the house until they sold it to the city +of Richmond. + + + [Illustration: WESTOVER ON THE JAMES, VIRGINIA + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 278] + +LXI + +FIVE OLD HOUSES OF TIDEWATER, VIRGINIA + +SABINE HALL, WESTOVER, SHIRLEY, BRANDON, AND CARTER'S GROVE + +The five houses mentioned briefly in this chapter are noteworthy, not +only because of their beauty, but because the stories of those who +lived in them show how the leading families of old Virginia +intermarried until the various relationships became a puzzle that +delights the genealogist. + +On the Rappahannock, in Richmond County, Virginia, Landon Carter, son +of Robert ("King") Carter, the ancestor of the Carter family of +Virginia, built Sabine Hall in 1730. He was a great lover of the works +of Horace, and it was quite natural that he should adopt for his +mansion the name of the Roman poet's Sabine Farm. + +Until his death in 1778 he was a recognized leader in both Church and +State. Robert A. Lancaster quotes an unnamed writer who says that he +was "a high-minded public servant and a finished scholar, indulging a +taste for science and a love for letters," and was considered "one of +the most notable of the pre-Revolutionary statesmen of the Colony," +and was "looked up to by the younger generation as a Nestor among his +compatriots." He was a friend of Washington, and received many letters +from him, some of which have been preserved. + +Landon Carter's second wife was Maria Byrd, of Westover. Her portrait, +as well as those of the other two wives, the husband and "King" +Carter, are hanging to-day on the walls of Sabine Hall. The estate of +four thousand acres descended to his son by his third marriage with +Elizabeth Beale, Robert Wormeley Carter, who was a member of the +Virginia Assembly. The property is still in the possession of the +descendants of the original owner. + +Westover, where Landon Carter courted Maria Byrd, is on the James in +Charles City County, not far south of Sabine Hall. The mansion was +built in the same year as Sabine Hall, 1730, by William Byrd, II, +whose father came from England about 1674. + +William Byrd, of Westover, was famous as a literary man and as a +statesman. At one time he was President of His Majesty's Council. But +perhaps his greatest fame came to him because he was the father of +Evelyn Byrd, who was a reigning belle. When, at the age of eighteen, +she was presented at Court, it was reported that the king of England +complimented her by saying he was glad Virginia could produce such +"beautiful Byrds." + +Evelyn's brother, William Byrd, III, was the heir of the estate. He +married Elizabeth Hill Carter, of Shirley, a neighboring estate. He +was a member of the Virginia Council and attained distinction by his +service as a colonel in the French and Indian War. + +During the siege of Yorktown some of the French officers made frequent +visits to Westover. One of them, Marquis de Chastellux, said that +this was the most beautiful place in America. + +Two armies have halted at Westover. In April, 1781, Cornwallis passed +that way, and, during the Civil War McClellan's army camped on the +grounds. A war-time picture shows something of the havoc wrought by +the soldiers. + +When Elizabeth Hill Carter, of Shirley, came to Westover, she gave up +one beautiful home for another. Her father's Charles City County +mansion was probably built late in the seventeenth century, though the +exact date is not known. One of the estate's claims to distinction is +that it has never been offered for sale. Colonel Edward Hill, the +builder, Colonel Edward Hill, II, his son, and Colonel Edward Hill, +III, his grandson, were leaders in the life of the county. At the +death of Colonel Hill, III, his sister, Elizabeth Hill, became heir to +the estate. She married John Carter, of Corotoman, son of Robert +("King") Carter, who was Secretary of the Colony. It was his daughter +who married William Byrd, III, of Westover. Her brother, Charles +Carter, who was a patriot of prominence, was the father-in-law of +Light Horse Harry Lee, and the grandfather of General Robert E. Lee. + +Carter's Grove, another seat of the Carter family, is also on the +James, in Charles City County, not far from Shirley. The builder was +Carter Burwell, and the house dates from 1751. The work was done by +slaves, under the direction of a foreman who received L140 for his +work. In the construction of the house 25,000 feet of lumber, 40,000 +shingles, 15,000 laths, and 460,000 bricks were used. The total cost +was only L500. + +Carter Burwell was the son of Elizabeth, daughter of Robert ("King") +Carter, who married Colonel Nathaniel Burwell. + +Across the James, in Prince George County, is Brandon, whose builder +was Nathaniel Harrison. The house dates from early in the eighteenth +century. His son, also Nathaniel Harrison, married, as his second +wife, Lucy the daughter of Robert ("King") Carter of Corotoman. +Benjamin Harrison, the son by the first wife, Mary Digges, married +Evelyn Taylor Byrd, of Westover. When she went to Brandon she took +with her the Byrd portraits, which are to-day one of the attractions +of the mansion. + +Brandon has always been in the possession of descendants of the +original owner. + + + [Illustration: GUNSTON HALL ON THE POTOMAC, VIRGINIA + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 281] + +LXII + +GUNSTON HALL, VIRGINIA + +THE HOME OF GEORGE MASON, "THE PEN OF THE REVOLUTION IN VIRGINIA" + +Four miles from Mt. Vernon, on the Potomac, is the well-preserved +mansion, Gunston Hall, built in 1758 by George Mason, the +great-grandson of George Mason, who fled to America after the Battle +of Worcester, where he was in arms against the king of England. The +first mention of the name of this George Mason occurs in the Virginia +patent of land which he secured in March, 1655. + +George Washington and George Mason were not only near neighbors, but +they were warm friends. Frequently Washington drove to Gunston Hall +for a talk with Mason; or sometimes he floated down the stream in his +four-oared gig, manned by his own slaves. Sometimes the men roamed +together through the woods or the fields; on one of these walks they +sought to define the boundaries between their estates. + +Gifts of various kinds passed back and forth between the two manors; +one day in 1785, when Mason was driven from Mt. Vernon in Washington's +carriage, he sent back by the driver some young shoots of the Persian +jessamine and Guelder rose. + +A few days later a hogshead of cider was broached at Gunston Hall, and +a liberal sample was sent to Washington. A note dated "9th November, +1785," addressed to Washington, begins, "The bearer waits on you with +a side of venison (the first we have killed this season), which I beg +your acceptance of." + +At one time both Washington and Mason were members of the vestry of +Truro parish. Washington's list of the vestrymen shows that his friend +was elected by two hundred and eighty-two votes, while he himself +received but fifty-one votes. + +Mason was as often at Mt. Vernon as Washington was at Gunston Hall. +After a visit made on Christmas Day, 1783, one of the other guests, +Miss Lewis, of Fredericksburg, wrote: + + "Among the most notable of the callers was Mr. George Mason, + of Gunston Hall, who was on his way home from Alexandria, and + who brought a charming granddaughter with him.... He is said + to be one of the greatest statesmen and wisest men in + Virginia. We had heard much of him and were delighted to look + in his face, hear him speak, and take his hand, which he + offered in a courtly manner. He is slight in figure, but + not tall, and has a grand head and clear gray eyes." + +To the home of George Mason other men of note delighted to come. In +the guest room Jefferson and Richard Henry Lee, as well as Washington, +slept more than once. Patrick Henry, too, was a welcome visitor at +Gunston Hall. George Mason had as high an opinion of the orator as +Patrick Henry had of the statesman. "He is by far the most powerful +speaker I ever heard," Mason once said of Henry; "every word he says +not only engages but commands the attention; and your passions are no +longer your own when he addresses them. But his eloquence is the +smallest part of his merit. He is in my opinion the first man upon +this continent, as well in abilities as public virtues, and had he +lived in Rome about the time of the first Punic War, when the Roman +people had arrived at their meridian glory and their virtue not +tarnished, Mr. Henry's talents must have put him at the head of that +glorious commonwealth." + +The orator returned the compliment by calling Mason one of the two +greatest statesmen he ever knew. + +George Mason's statesmanlike vision was seen in 1766, when he warned +the British public of the results that would follow coercion. "Three +millions of people driven to desperation are not an object of +contempt," he wrote. Again he proved a good prophet when he wrote to +George Washington, on April 2, 1776, after the General took possession +of Boston: + + "I congratulate you most heartily upon this glorious and + important event--an event which will render George + Washington's name immortal in the annals of America, endear + his memory to the latest posterity, and entitle him to those + thanks which heaven appointed as the reward of public + virtue." + +Mason was of a retiring disposition, and he would have preferred to +remain at home. But he was forced into the councils of the Virginia +Convention, and during his service there he prepared the marvellous +Bill of Rights which was later made a part of the Constitution of that +State and was the model for similar documents in many other States. He +was also the author of the Constitution of Virginia, and the designer +of the State seal. He was a member of the Constitutional Convention in +Philadelphia, where he proved himself "the champion of the State and +the author of the doctrine of State Rights." Because the Constitution +as finally drafted by the convention contained so many provisions that +he felt were dangerous, he refused to sign the document, "declaring +that he would sooner chop off his right hand than put it to the +Constitution" whose provisions he could not approve. + +After the Constitutional Convention for more than four years the +statesman lived quietly at Gunston Hall. When he died in October, +1792, he asked to be buried by the side of his first wife, whose death +in 1773 had been a grievous blow to him. Over her tomb he had +inscribed: + + "Once She was all that cheers and sweetens Life; + The tender Mother, Daughter, Friend and Wife: + Once She was all that makes Mankind adore; + Now view the Marble, and be vain no more." + +No monument was ever raised over his own grave. A grandson planned to +set a stone inscribed to "The Author of the Bill of Rights and the +Constitution of Virginia," but he was unable to do as he wished. + +Gunston Hall still stands, though it has passed through many hands +since the death of him whom George Esten Cooke called "one of the most +remarkable men, not only of his Country, and of his epoch, but of all +Countries and all time." + + + [Illustration: WASHINGTON COLLEGE BUILDING, LEXINGTON, VA. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 285] + +LXIII + +THE WASHINGTON COLLEGE BUILDING, LEXINGTON, VIRGINIA + +HOW GEORGE WASHINGTON SOLVED A DELICATE PROBLEM + +Even before the treaty of peace with Great Britain was signed, George +Washington was making plans for the development of the West. He was +especially impressed with the possibilities of the Potomac and James +rivers, if improved by canals, as a means of communication with the +Ohio. Companies were organized to the work. In both enterprises he was +a stockholder. On August 13, 1785, he wrote to Edmund Randolph: + + "The great object for the accomplishment of which I wish to + see the inland navigation of the River Potomack and James + improved and extended is to connect the western territory + with the Atlantic states.... I have already subscribed five + shares to the Potomack navigation; and enclosed I give you a + power to put my name down for five shares to that of James + River." + +In 1785 Patrick Henry, Governor of Virginia, wrote to Washington that +the General Assembly of the State had voted to give him one hundred +shares in the James River Company, "it being their wish, in +particular, that those great works of improvement, which, both as +springing from the liberty which he has been so instrumental in +establishing, and as encouraged by his patronage, will be durable +monuments of his glory, may be made monuments also of the gratitude of +his country." + +Washington replied that he could not accept money for his services to +his country. Then he added: "But if it should please the General +Assembly to permit me to turn the destination of the fund vested in +me, from my private emolument, to objects of a public nature, it will +be my study in selecting these to prove the sincerity of my gratitude +for the honor conferred on me, by preferring such as may appear most +subservient to the enlightened and patriotic views of the +legislature." + +Of course the legislature granted the desired permission, indicating +that the gifts might be made either during Washington's life, or by +bequest. + +Some years passed before Washington fixed on a proper recipient for +the canal shares. In 1798, however, he gave them to the trustees of +Liberty Academy, at Lexington, Virginia, which had been incorporated +in 1782. In recognition of the gift the trustees asked the legislature +to change the name of the school to Washington Academy. In 1813 the +name was once more changed to Washington College. + +This, the first large gift received by the institution, is still +yielding an income of three thousand dollars. During many times of +crisis the income provided in this way has been of signal use to the +institution, notably in 1824, when the Washington College building was +begun. This structure is two hundred and fifty feet long, is built of +brick, and each of its three porticoes is supported by white colonial +columns. + +For more than seventy-five years after Washington turned over the +canal shares, the institution's sole endowment amounted to only about +one hundred and twenty thousand dollars. The seventy thousand dollars +added to the canal shares came from sources that were influenced by +Washington's confidence in the institution. + +The beginning of the larger life of the college was the election of +General Robert E. Lee as president. The keynote of his five years of +service was sounded in the letter which he wrote to the trustees on +receiving notification of his election. He feared that, in view of his +military history, he might cause harm to the college. He was never +greater than when he said: + + "I think it is the duty of every citizen, in the present + condition of the country, to do all in his power to aid in + the restoration of peace and harmony, and in no way to oppose + the policy of the State or General Government directed to + that object. It is particularly incumbent upon those charged + with the instruction of the young to set them an example of + submission to authority, and I would not consent to be the + cause of animadversion on the College." + +Following the death of General Lee, which came after five years of +remarkable development under his leadership, the name of Washington +College was changed to Washington and Lee University, that it might +continue forever a memorial to its two greatest benefactors. + + + [Illustration: BRUTON PARISH CHURCH, WILLIAMSBURG, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 288] + +LXIV + +BRUTON PARISH CHURCH, WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA + +"THE COURT CHURCH OF COLONIAL VIRGINIA" + +Jamestown was the capital of Virginia until 1699. Then Williamsburg +became the seat of government. Six years earlier the latter town had +taken on some importance because of the founding there of William and +Mary College, and for more than sixty years efforts had been made to +persuade the people to make their homes in the place. The records of +the Colony show that in 1632 rewards were offered to those who would +locate in what seemed a promising situation for a town. + +The date of the building of the first church in Williamsburg is not +known. The first entry in the vestry book of Bruton parish was made in +April, 1674, but the parish dates from 1658. In that year Harrop and +Middle Plantation parishes were united, though the new parish was not +called Bruton for some time. The name was given because Sir James +Ludwell, who afterward left a legacy of twenty pounds to the parish, +was born in Bruton, England. + +A building (that it was not the first is shown by the mention in the +records of the Old Church) was completed in 1683, and the first +service was held on January 6, 1684. The cost was "L150 sterling and +sixty thousand pounds of good sound, marketable sweet, scented +Tobacco." The minister, "Mr. Rowland Jones," was "paid annually ye +sum of sixteen thousand, six hundred and sixty pounds of Tobacco and +Caske." + +The removal of the capital to Williamsburg brought so many new people +to town that the church became too small for the congregation. In 1701 +the parish records show that there was talk of a new building. + +On October 1, 1706, the vestry decided to levy a tax of twenty +thousand pounds of Tobacco as a beginning of the building fund. Four +years later the members of the vestry made known their hope that the +House of Burgesses would assist in the expense, which, they thought, +would be about five hundred pounds. To the Burgesses a message was +sent indicating that the vestry "do not doubt in the least but the +House of Burgesses would show their Pious and Generous Spirits by +their Liberall Donation towards soe Necessary and good a worke and +that they would assure them to the best of their Judgment they would +appropriate the same according to the true Intent thereof." + +The Burgesses offered "to take Care of the wings and intervening +parts," if the vestry would build the ends of the church. They also +agreed to build the pews for the Governor, the Council, and +themselves. With their help, the building was completed and occupied +in 1715. The tower was added in 1769. + +Rev. James Blair, who was minister of Bruton parish at the time of the +erection of the new building, had been instrumental in organizing +William and Mary College. The early history of that institution is +bound up with that of the church. Some of the most notable conflicts +between Church and State in the old Colony took place during the years +of Mr. Blair's activity. He died in 1743, after serving the church as +minister for thirty-three years, William and Mary College as +President for fifty years, and the Colony as Commissioner for +fifty-three years. + +Among the famous names on the vestry rolls are those of Henry Tyler, +great-great-grandfather of President Tyler, who was first mentioned on +"The Seaventh day of April, 1694," and George Wythe, one of the +Signers of the Declaration of Independence. Patrick Henry, and George +Washington later worshipped with the congregation. + +When Virginia was about to go to war with Great Britain, the House of +Burgesses, on May 24, 1774, ordered that "the members of the House do +attend in their places, at the hour of ten in the morning, on the +first day of June next, in order to proceed with the Speaker and the +mace, to the church," for fasting, humiliation, and prayer. During the +Revolution the members of the church were noted for their loyalty to +the Colonies. + +To-day the building is about as it was during the troubled days of the +war. No change has been made in the exterior, but in 1839 the interior +was changed in many important particulars. In 1905, however, it was +restored as before. The pulpit was put in the old place. The canopy +and curtain which had long stood above the pew of Governor Spotswood, +were found and again put in position. King Edward VII gave the new +pulpit Bible, and President Roosevelt provided the lectern. + + +LXV + +WILLIAM AND MARY COLLEGE, WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA + +THE ALMA MATER OF THOMAS JEFFERSON, JAMES MONROE, AND JOHN TYLER + +Three years before John Harvard left a legacy for the founding of the +college that bears his name, the first bequest for public education +made by a resident of Virginia was recorded, though this was used for +a secondary school, rather than for a college. + +The project of a college, proposed in 1617 and 1618 by the London +Company, and in 1619 at the first session of the General Assembly, +languished until 1685, when Rev. James Blair came to the Colony as a +missionary and settled in Henrico County, where it had been proposed +to found the college sixty-eight years earlier. For five years he +brooded over the need of a college and in 1690 he made to a convention +at Jamestown "Severall Propositions for a free school and college, to +be humbly presented to the consideration of the next general +assembly." Later, by authority of the Assembly, Dr. Blair appealed to +the Merchants of London, "especially such as traffick with Virginia," +and three thousand pounds were pledged. + +On the occasion of Dr. Blair's visit to England in 1691, he had an +audience with King William, at which he presented the petition for "a +charter to erect a free school and college." The king replied, "Sir, I +am glad that the Colony is upon so good a design, and will promote it +to the best of my power." Queen Mary also showed her interest in the +college. + +To the endowment in lands and taxes provided by royal order, Dr. Blair +secured an appreciable addition in an ingenious manner. Learning that, +some time before his arrival, the authorities had promised forgiveness +to pirates who, before a set day, should confess their crimes and give +up a portion of their booty, and that three famous pirates had come in +after the appointed day, so that they were arrested, he visited them +in jail and offered to use his influence in their behalf, if they +would consent to give to the college a portion of their booty. They +gladly agreed; Dr. Blair's efforts were successful, and they were +given their liberty together with their treasure, minus the promised +gift to the Virginia College. Another much larger gift was secured +from the executor of an estate which held money devised indefinitely +for "pious and charitable uses." The income from this portion of the +endowment was to be used "to keep as many Indian children in meat, +drink, washing, clothes, medicine, books and education, from the first +beginning of letters till they should be ready to receive orders and +be sent abroad to convert the Indians." + +In connection with the charter for "the College of William and Mary," +which was dated February 8, 1693, authority was given to use the seal +described as follows: "On a green field a college building of silver, +with a golden sun, showing half its orb, rising above it." This is +said to be the sole instance of a college, either English or American, +which has a seal of such high origin. + +Sir Christopher Wren, the designer of St. Paul's Cathedral, made the +plan for the original building, which was to be two stories and a half +high, one hundred and thirty-six feet long, and forty feet wide, and +with two wings sixty feet long and twenty-five feet wide. In 1697 it +was reported to the governor of the province that the front and north +side of the proposed rectangle had been completed at Williamsburg, and +that funds were exhausted. The walls were more than three feet thick +at the base, and contained 840,000 bricks, the product of a brickyard +nearby. + +For some years subscriptions were paid slowly, and interest in the +college languished, but conditions improved when King William sent to +Governor Nicholson a proclamation urging him "Yt you call upon ye +persons yt have promised to contribute towards ye maintenance of ye +sd college, to pay in full the severall Contributions." + +The first of the disasters that have visited the main building came in +1705, when the interior was burned. The college was rebuilt on the old +walls, as was the case after the fire of 1859. Thus, after much more +than two hundred years, the venerable building looks almost as it did +when the first students entered its doors. A number of other +structures have been erected since, including the Brafferton building +in 1723, the house now occupied by the president, which dates from +1732, and the chapel, begun in 1729. Interest must always centre about +the central structure, however. + +During the Revolution the president was James Madison, second cousin +of the future President of the United States. The president's house +was occupied by Cornwallis in 1781. After his surrender French +officers lived there. During their occupancy the house was badly +damaged by fire, but it was repaired at the expense of the French +Army. + +Three events of the years of the war are of special moment in the +history of higher education in America. On December 5, 1776, the Phi +Beta Kappa Society, the first intercollegiate fraternity in the United +States, was organized. On December 4, 1779, the college was made a +university, the first in the country, and the same year marked the +beginning of the Honor System of college government which worked such +a revolution in other colleges more than a century later. When Thomas +Jefferson, who was a student at William and Mary in 1760-62, founded +the University of Virginia, the Honor System was successfully +inaugurated in the new institution. + +Other famous men who have been connected with William and Mary +included George Washington, who was chancellor in 1794; Chief Justice +John Marshall, student in 1779; Secretary of State Edmund Randolph, +student in 1766; James Monroe, student in 1775. John Tyler was also +educated there. It is a remarkable fact that the presidents who are +responsible for adding to the original territory of the country +Louisiana, Florida, Texas, and most of the western territory, were +products of William and Mary. + + + [Illustration: MONUMENTAL CHURCH, RICHMOND, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 294] + +LXVI + +THE MONUMENTAL CHURCH, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA + +ON THE SITE OF A THEATRE WHOSE BURNING MOVED THE ENTIRE COUNTRY + + "Last night the playhouse in this city was crowded with an + unusual audience. There could not have been less than 600 + persons in the house. Just before the conclusion of the + play, the scenery caught fire, and in a few minutes the whole + building was wrapt in flames. It is already ascertained that + 61 persons were devoured by that most terrific element. The + Editor of this paper was in the house when the + ever-to-be-remembered, deplorable accident occurred. He is + informed that the scenery took fire in the back part of the + house, by raising of a chandelier; that the boy, who was + ordered by some of the players to raise it, stated, that if + he did so, the scenery would take fire, when he was commanded + in a peremptory manner, to hoist it. The boy obeyed, and the + fire was instantly communicated to the scenery." + +This story the editor of the Richmond (Virginia) _American Standard_ +told in the columns of his paper on Friday, December 27, 1811. He +added the fact that among those who perished were the Governor of the +State, as well as many of the leaders in the business and social life +of the city. + +By order of the city council the remains of the victims were buried on +the site of the burned building, which was bought for the purpose. At +the same time it was ordered that "no person or persons should be +permitted for and during the time of four months ... to exhibit any +public show or spectacle ... within the city." + +By ordinance it was also decreed that a monument should be erected on +the site. Later it was suggested that there should be built there, by +public subscription, "an edifice to be set apart and consecrated for +the worship of God," and that this should be the monument. + +Accordingly, on August 1, 1812, the corner stone of the Monumental +Church was laid, the lot having been purchased by the city for $5,000. +The building was consecrated as a Protestant Episcopal church in May, +1814. In April, 1815, the subscribers to the fund for the building, +who had organized under the title, "The Association for building a +Church on Shockoe Hill," were notified that one-half of their +subscription money would be returned to them on application at the +Bank of Virginia. + +In the middle of the front or main porch of the church a white marble +monument was erected to the memory of the victims of the fire. + +To the General Convention of the Protestant Episcopal church, which +assembled in Philadelphia on May 18, 1814, report was made that "a +magnificent church has sprung up in Richmond from the ashes of the +Theatre; it has the patronage and support of men of the greatest +talents and highest rank in Virginia." + +Among the communicants of the Monumental Church have been numbered +many of the most prominent men in the Virginia capital, and men famous +in the early history of the country were attendants from time to time. +In February, 1824, General Lafayette worshipped in the building. + + +LXVII + +MONTPELIER, ORANGE COUNTY, VIRGINIA + +THE LIFELONG HOME OF JAMES MADISON + +James Madison was born at the residence of his mother's parents, at +Port Conway, Prince George County, Virginia, but before long he was +taken to his father's house, Montpelier, which was the first brick +house built in Orange County. And Montpelier continued to be his home +to the day of his death. Much of his life was spent in Washington, but +his heart was always turning to the old Virginia plantation where he +had spent his boyhood, and he took advantage of every possible +opportunity to go there for a longer or shorter visit. + +The distance to Shadwell, where Thomas Jefferson lived as a boy, was +only thirty miles, but these two who were to have such a large place +in the early history of America, did not meet until Madison was +seventeen years old. Then lost time was made up. For many years the +road between Montpelier and the home of Jefferson became quite +familiar to the friends. + +In the years before he went to college Madison roamed at will over the +twenty-five hundred acres of the Montpelier estate. He walked and +rode, he hunted and fished, he learned to take delight in the quiet +scenery of that beautiful Blue Ridge country. His tutor, who lived on +the estate, was his companion on his expeditions. + +It was probably due to this outdoor life that his health was so much +better in Virginia than it was at the College of New Jersey (Princeton +College). Soon after he graduated in 1771 he returned to Montpelier, +somewhat broken by reason of overwork and lack of exercise. To a +college friend in Philadelphia he wrote rather pessimistically: + + "I am too tired and infirm now to look for extraordinary + things in this world, for I think my sensations for many + months have intimated to me not to expect a long or a healthy + life, though it may be better for me after some time; but I + hardly dare expect it, and therefore have little spirit or + elasticity to set about anything that is difficult in + acquiring and useless in possessing after one has exchanged + time for eternity." + +He was right in thinking that he was not to have a healthy life, but +he was wrong in thinking it was to be neither long nor eventful. For +more than sixty years after he wrote the letter from which quotation +has been made, he was energetic and devoted in the service of his +country. In May, 1776, he entered the Virginia Convention, thus +beginning the career that led him to eight years in the White House. +And after he retired from the Presidency much of his time and thought +was given to the affairs of the nation. During all these years the +thought of his Virginia home gave him new strength in the midst of his +tasks. + +That home meant more to him than ever when, in September, 1794, he +entered the doors of Montpelier with his bride, Dorothy Todd, the +young Philadelphia widow whom he had married at Harewood, Virginia. + +The estate was still the property of Mr. Madison's father, and both +his father and mother continued to live there. Before long the house +was enlarged. The rooms so long occupied by the old people were made a +part of the new mansion. + +The two families lived together in perfect harmony. The father lived +to see his son President of the United States, and the mother was +ninety-eight when she died. William O. Stoddard, in his "Life of James +Madison," says that "she kept up the old-fashioned ways of +housekeeping; waited upon by her servants who grew old and faded away +with her. She divided her time between her Bible and her knitting, all +undisturbed by the modern hours, the changed customs, or the elegant +hospitality of the mansion house itself. She was a central point in +the life of her distinguished son, and the object of his most devoted +care to the end of her days." + +For Mr. and Mrs. Madison, real life at Montpelier began in 1817, after +the close of the stirring period in the White House. They did not have +much opportunity to be alone, for guests delighted to come to them, +and they liked to have others with them, yet they managed to secure a +wonderful amount of joy out of the years spent "within a squirrel's +jump of heaven," to use Dolly Madison's expressive phrase. + +Among the guests were intimate friends like Jefferson, who was almost +a member of the family. Lafayette, too, found his way to the estate, +while Harriet Martineau told in her "Recollections" of her pleasant +sojourn there. Frequently strangers who were on the way to the +Virginia Hot Springs took the five-mile detour merely to reach +Montpelier, and they were always made welcome. + +The dining-room was large, but there were sometimes so many guests +that the table had to be set out of doors. Mr. Madison wrote in 1820 +of one such occasion: "Yesterday we had ninety persons to dine with us +at our table, fixed on the lawn, under a large arbor.... Half a dozen +only staid all night." + +After a visit to her parents that was broken into by the presence of +guests, a daughter of the house complained to her husband that she had +not been able to pass one sociable moment with her father. His reply +was sympathetic: "Nobody can ever have felt so severely as myself the +prostration of family society from the circumstances you mention.... +But there is no remedy. The present manners and ways of our country +are laws we cannot repeal. They are altering by degrees, and you will +live to see the hospitality of the country reduced to the visiting +hours of the day, and the family left to tranquillity in the evening." + +When the steward saw that Madison would not curb these guests, he +began to cut down on the fodder for the horses, but when the +hospitable host learned of this he gave orders that there should be no +further attempts of this sort. He realized that he was living beyond +his income, but he saw no help for it. He longed for more time in his +library or for riding or walking about the estate. + +The time came when walks had to be taken on the veranda; health was +failing rapidly. He was not able to oversee the farm as he had long +been accustomed to do, but depended on others. In 1835 Mrs. Madison +wrote to her daughter: "My days are devoted to nursing and comforting +my sick patient, who walks only from the bed in which he breakfasts to +another." Still later she wrote: "I never leave my husband more than a +few minutes at a time, and have not left the enclosure around our +house for the last eight months." + +When the owner of Montpelier died, on June 28, 1836, he was buried in +the cemetery on the estate. Mrs. Madison spent a few lonely years in +the old home, but the property was finally sold to satisfy the debts +of her wayward son, Payne Todd. She was sometimes in actual want +before she died, but Congress provided for her relief by buying for +twenty-five thousand dollars the Madison letters and other papers. + +She lived until July 12, 1849, and her body was finally laid by the +side of that of her husband. + +William Dupont, the present owner of Montpelier, has enlarged the +house by the addition of a second story to the wings. So the house +that was built in 1760 by James Madison, Sr., and was enlarged by +James Madison, Jr., has entered on a new era of hospitality. + + +LXVIII + +OAK HILL, LOUDOUN COUNTY, VIRGINIA + +THE HOME OF JAMES MONROE'S OLD AGE + +James Monroe, at twenty-eight, wrote from New York to Thomas +Jefferson, with whom he had studied law: + + "I shall leave this about the 1st of October for + Virginia--Fredericksburg. Believe me, I have not relinquished + the prospect of being your neighbor. The house for which I + have requested a plan may possibly be erected near + Monticello; to fix there, and to have yourself in particular, + with what friends we may collect around, for society is my + chief object; or rather, the only one which promises to me, + with the connection I have formed, real and substantial + pleasure; if, indeed, by the name of pleasure it may be + called." + +The "connection" of which the future President wrote was his marriage +to Miss Eliza Kortwright of New York. Of this he had spoken in an +earlier letter to Jefferson: + + "You will be surprised to hear that I have formed the most + interesting connection in human life with a young lady in + this town, as you know my plan was to visit you before I + settled myself, but having formed an attachment to this + young lady ... I have found that I must relinquish all other + objects not connected with her." + +Monroe was not permitted to practice law long. As United States +Senator, diplomat, Governor, Cabinet officer, and President, his time +was so fully occupied that no one but a man of his fine physique and +endurance could have stood the strain. Once, during the War of 1812, +according to his friend, Judge E. R. Watson, when the burden of three +of the departments of the government rested on him--State, Treasury, +and War--he did not undress himself for ten days and nights, and was +in the saddle the greater part of the time. + +After some years he bought an estate in Loudoun County, Virginia, to +which he retired for a brief rest whenever this was possible. For a +time the old dormer-windowed house on the property satisfied him, but +during his presidential term he built Oak Hill, the house for which +Jefferson had prepared the plans. It is said that the nails used in +its construction were manufactured on the Jefferson estate. + +The house--which was named Oak Hill because of the oaks on the lawn, +planted by the owner himself, one for each State of the Union--has +been described by Major R. W. N. Noland as follows: + + "The building was superintended by Mr. William Benton, an + Englishman, who occupied the mixed relation to Mr. Monroe of + steward, counsellor and friend. The house is built of brick + in a most substantial manner, and handsomely finished; it is, + perhaps, about 90 x 50 feet, three stories (including + basement), and has a wide portico, fronting south, with + massive Doric columns thirty feet high, and is surrounded by + a grove of magnificent oaks covering several acres. While the + location is not as commanding as many others in that section, + being in lower Loudoun where the rolling character of the + Piedmont region begins to lose itself in the flat lands of + tide water, the house in two directions commands an + attractive and somewhat extensive view, but on the other side + it is hemmed in by mountains, for the local names of which, + 'Bull Run' and 'Nigger Mountain,' it is to be hoped the late + President is in no wise responsible.... The little stream + that washes the confines of the Oak Hill estate once bore the + Indian name Gohongarestaw (the River of Swans), and is now + called Goose Creek." + +After the expiration of his second term as President Monroe made Oak +Hill his permanent home, though sometimes he was with his daughter, +Mrs. Gouverneur, in New York. + +One who was a member of the household during a part of the six years +of the life in Virginia said that he "looked perhaps older than he +was, his face being strongly marked with the lines of anxiety and +care." + +There were many guests at Oak Hill, among these being Madison and +Jefferson. Monroe, in turn, was frequently at Monticello and +Montpelier. His office as Regent of the University of Virginia also +brought him into frequent touch with his two predecessors in the +presidency, for they were fellow-members on the Board. + +Whenever weather and guests permitted he was accustomed to ride about +the estate and through the countryside both morning and evening. One +day, when he was seventy-two, his horse fell on him, and his right +wrist was sprained so badly that for a time he could not write to his +friends, as he had delighted to do. Thus he was able to sympathize +with Madison when a letter came from Montpelier a few months later: + + "In explanation of my microscopic writing, I must remark that + the older I grow the more my stiffening fingers make smaller + letters, as my feet take shorter steps, the progress in both + cases being, at the same time, more fatiguing as well as more + slow." + +Monroe's last years of life were saddened by financial difficulties, +though even these brought gleams of joy, because of the fidelity of +his friends. Lafayette, who visited Oak Hill in 1825, wrote later to +his friend a most delicately worded offer of assistance, indicating +that he felt it was his right to offer this, since Monroe, when +minister to France, had exerted himself to bring about the release of +Lafayette, then a prisoner at Olmuetz, and had ministered to the wants +of Madame Lafayette. + +A measure of relief came when Congress voted to repay, in part, the +extraordinary expense incurred by the statesman during his diplomatic +career, but not before he had advertised Oak Hill for sale and had +planned to go to New York to live near his daughter. The estate was +later withdrawn from the market, but the plan to go to New York was +carried out: he did not see how he could remain after the death of +Mrs. Monroe, which took place in 1830. + +He did not stay long in New York. On July 4, 1831, he died. +Twenty-seven years later, on the one hundredth anniversary of his +birth, his body was taken to Richmond for burial. There, in his native +State, rest the remains of him of whom Thomas Jefferson said, "He is +a man whose soul might be turned inside out without discovering a +blemish to the world." + + +LXIX + +RED HILL, CHARLOTTE COUNTY, VIRGINIA + +WHERE PATRICK HENRY SPENT HIS LAST YEARS + +Patrick Henry was only fifty-eight years old when he retired for rest +and the enjoyment of family life to his 2,920-acre estate, Red Hill, +in the Staunton Valley, thirty-eight miles southeast of Lynchburg. +Just before he made this move he wrote to his daughter Betsy, "I must +give out the law, and plague myself no more with business, sitting +down with what I have. For it will be sufficient employment to see +after my little flock." + +He had served his country well for thirty years, as member of the +House of Burgesses, as Speaker of the first Continental Congress in +Philadelphia in 1774, in the Virginia Convention of 1775 where he made +his most famous speech, and as Governor of Virginia from 1776 to 1779 +and again from 1784 to 1786. He had well earned the rest he hoped to +find. Washington asked him to become Secretary of State and, later, +Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. John Adams nominated him as +minister to France. But he resisted all these efforts to draw him from +his retirement. + +The house at Red Hill was a simple story and a half structure, to +which the owner soon added a shed kitchen, solely because he "wished +to hear the patter of the rain on the roof." This original portion of +the house has been retained intact by later occupants, who have made +additions with rare appreciation of what is fitting. The central +portion was built by the son of the orator, John Henry. The box hedges +in which the sage of Red Hill took such delight have been retained and +extended. + +George Morgan, in "The True Patrick Henry," says that this life in +retirement "might be designated as a patriarchal life, if it were not +for the fact that the cradle was still rocking at Red Hill." Henry's +letters were full of references to his children. Once he wrote to his +daughter Betsy, "I have the satisfaction to inform you that we are +well, except Johnny, Christian, and Patrick, and they are recovering +fast now." And again, "I have great cause of thankfulness for the +health I enjoy, and for that of your mamma and all the children.... We +have another son, named Winston." + +William Wirt, in his "Life of Patrick Henry," written in 1817, said, +"His visitors have not infrequently caught him lying on the floor, +with a group of these little ones, climbing over him in every +direction, or dancing around him with obstreperous mirth to the tune +of his violin, while the only contest seemed to be who should make the +most noise." + +That there were many visitors who had the opportunity to see such +contests as these is evident from a paragraph in "Homes of American +Statesmen": + + "His home was usually filled with friends, its dependences + with their retinue and horses. But crowds, besides, came and + went; all were received with cordiality.... Those who lived + near always came to breakfast, when all were welcomed and + made full. The larder never seemed to get lean. Breakfast + over, creature comforts, such as might console the belated + for the loss, were promptly set forth on side-tables in the + wide entrance-hall.... Meanwhile, the master saw and welcomed + all with the kindliest attention, asked of their household, + listened to their affairs, gave them his view, contented all. + These audiences seldom ceased before noon, or the early + dinner. To this a remaining party of twenty or thirty often + sat down.... The dinner ended, he betook himself to his + studies until supper, after which he again gave himself up to + enjoyment." + +Not only was he a total abstainer, but as he grew older he came to +detest the odor of tobacco; so there were certain refreshments that +were never offered to the guests at Red Hill. + +During the closing years of his life he spent hours over the Bible. +Every morning he would take his seat in the dining-room, with the big +family Bible open before him. Once he said to a visitor, "This book is +worth all the books that ever were printed, and it has been my +misfortune that I never found time to read it with the proper +attention and feeling till lately. I trust in the mercy of heaven that +it is not too late." + +To Betsy, a daughter by his first marriage, he wrote in 1796: + + "Some good people think I am no Christian. This thought gives + me much more pain than the appellation of tory; because I + think religion of infinitely higher importance than politics, + and I find much cause to reproach myself that I have lived so + long and have given no decided and public proof of my being a + Christian. But, indeed, my dear child, there is a character + which I prize far above all this world has or can boast. And + amongst all the handsome things I hear said of you, what + gives me the greatest pleasure is, to be told of your piety + and steady virtue." + +As, one by one, the older children grew up and went out from Red Hill +to homes of their own, they were urged to read the Bible. Dorothea was +the first to be married. Then came Martha Catherine, who, at +seventeen, fell in love with the hero who rescued her when she fell +from a boat into the water. Sarah married Robert, the brother of the +poet Thomas Campbell. It is said that at one time the poet was engaged +to come to Red Hill as tutor for the younger children of the family, +but was unable to keep his promise. + +Because of the constant pleas that were made that he give up his quiet +life and reenter politics, Henry Clay wrote, in 1796: + + "I shall never more appear in a public character, unless some + unlooked-for circumstance shall demand from me a transient + effort.... I see with concern our old Commander-in-chief most + abusively treated--nor are his long and great services + remembered, as any apology for his mistakes in an office to + which he was totally unaccustomed. If he, whose character as + our leader during the whole war was above all praise, is so + roughly treated in his old age, what may be expected by men + of the common standard of character?" + +He kept his resolution. A few months after writing this message, when +notified that he had been elected Governor of Virginia, for a third +term, he wrote, "My declining years warn me of my inability." + +But in January, 1799, came an appeal from Washington himself that he +would present himself as a candidate "if not for Congress, which you +may think would take you too long from home, as a candidate for +Representative in the General Assembly of the Commonwealth." The +reasons were given: "Your insight of character and influence in the +House of Representatives would be a bulwark against such dangerous +sentiments as are delivered there at present. It would be a rallying +point for the timid, and an attraction of the wavering. In a word, I +conceive it to be of immense importance at this crisis that you should +be there, and I would fain hope that all minor considerations will be +made to yield to the measure." + +Though Henry knew that he had little strength left, he responded to +the appeal. On County Court day, the first Monday in March, he +presented himself before the people at Charlotte as a candidate for +Representative. How they flocked about him! + +A Hampdon-Sidney student, Henry Miller, who heard him that day, said +afterward: + + "He was very infirm, and seated in a chair conversing with + some friends who were pouring in from all the surrounding + country to hear him. At length he rose with difficulty, and + stood, somewhat bowed with age and weakness. His face was + almost colorless. His countenance was careworn, and when he + commenced his exordium, his voice was slightly cracked and + tremulous. But in a few minutes a wonderful transformation of + the whole man occurred, as he warmed with his theme. He stood + erect; his eyes beamed with a light that was almost + supernatural, his features glowed with the hues and fires of + youth; and his voice rang clear and melodious, with the + intonations of some great musical instrument whose notes + filled the area, and fell distinctly and delightfully upon + the ears of the most distant of the thousands gathered before + him." + +Near the close of this effective address he said: + + "You can never exchange the present government, but for a + monarchy. If the administration have done wrong, let us all + go wrong together, rather than split into factions, which + must destroy that union upon which our existence hangs. Let + us preserve our strength for the French, the English, the + German, or whoever else shall dare to invade our territory, + and not exhaust it in civil commotion and intestine wars." + +After the conclusion of the oration, Henry went back to Red Hill, and +never left it again. In April he was triumphantly elected, but he was +unable to take his seat. + +On June 6, 1799, he was near death. When the physician offered him a +vial of mercury, at the same time telling him that the remedy might +prolong his life a little while, or it might be fatal, he drew over +his eyes a silken cap which he usually wore, and, holding the vial in +his hands, made "a simple childlike prayer for his family, for his +country, and for his own soul. Afterwards in perfect calm he swallowed +the medicine." + +His last word was to his physician, commending the Christian religion, +which was so real a benefit to a man about to die. + +Patrick Henry and his wife lie side by side in the rear garden of Red +Hill. "His fame his best epitaph" is the simple inscription on the +stone above the patriot. + + + [Illustration: POHICK CHURCH, VIRGINIA + _Photo furnished by Aymar Embury, II_ + See page 311] + +LXX + +POHICK CHURCH, TRURO PARISH, VIRGINIA + +THE HOME CHURCH OF GEORGE WASHINGTON + +Both Truro parish and George Washington were born in 1732, and +Washington's connection with Truro Church began in 1735, when his +father, Augustine Washington, became a vestryman, and it continued +throughout his life, though during his later years, when services were +seldom held there, he went to Christ Church at Alexandria. + +When Washington was a boy he had to make a round trip of eighteen +miles, frequently over extremely rough roads, when he wished to attend +services. Yet he was a faithful attendant, at all seasons. + +A number of the early rectors of Truro were welcome guests at Mt. +Vernon. One of these, Charles Green, was a physician as well as a +minister, as appears from the record that he was called to prescribe +for Washington in 1757, when the young campaigner was so seriously +ill, in consequence of hardships suffered on his western trip, that he +said he had "too much reason to apprehend an approaching decay." + +Five years after this illness Washington was elected a member of the +vestry of the parish, and he was re-elected many times. His record for +attendance was unusual, in spite of his many outside engagements. +During the years from 1763 to 1774 thirty-one vestry meetings were +held. He was absent from eight of these, once on account of sickness, +twice because he was attending the House of Burgesses, and at least +three times because he was out of the county. For a few months, in +1765, he did not serve, because, on the division of Truro parish, Mt. +Vernon was thrown over the line into the new Fairfax parish. At once +the new parish made him a member of its vestry, but when, in response +to a petition which Washington helped to present, the House of +Burgesses changed the parish line so that Mt. Vernon was once more in +Truro parish, he resumed his service in the old church. There he +maintained his connection with an official body noted for the fact +that, at one time or another, it had eleven members in the House of +Burgesses, two members in His Majesty's Council for Virginia, as well +as the author of the Virginia Bill of Rights and the Constitution of +the State of Virginia, George Mason. + +When it was decided that a new church building was needed, Washington +was instrumental in settling the inevitable discussion as to site that +followed. He made a map of the parish, showing where each communicant +lived, and recommended that the building be placed at the centre of +the parish, as shown by the map. His suggestion was adopted, and a +site two miles nearer Mt. Vernon was chosen. + +For the new church Washington himself drew the plan. He was also +active in letting the plan and overseeing the building operation. At +an auction of pews, held in 1772, when the church was ready for use, +he bought Number 28, next the communion table, for L10, while he paid +L13 10s. for pew 30. Evidently he was thoughtful for the guests who +frequently rode with him to service, either in the coach, or in the +chaise that followed, or on horseback. When the Mt. Vernon contingent +came to church there was usually quite a procession. + +Under date October 2, 1785, the diary of Washington tells of one of +these processions, as well as of an interesting event that followed: + + "Went with Fanny Bassett, Burwell, Bassett, Doctr Stuart, G. + A. Washington, Mr. Shaw and Nellie Custis to Pohick Church to + hear a Mr. Thompson preach, who returned with me to + Dinner.... After we were in Bed (about Eleven o'clock in the + Evening) Mr Houdon, sent from Paris by Doctr Franklin and + Mr Jefferson to take my Bust, in behalf of the State of + Virginia ... arrived." + +For many years Pohick Church was practically deserted, but there is +evidence that services were held here in 1802. Davies, an Englishman, +in his "Four Years in America," wrote: + + "About four miles from Occoquon is Pohick. Thither I rode on + Sunday and joined the Congregation of Parson Weims, who was + cheerful in his mien that he might win me to religion. A + Virginia churchyard on Sunday is more like a race-course than + a cemetery; the women come in carriages and the men on horses + which they tie to the trees. The church bell was suspended + from a tree. I was confounded to hear 'steed threaten steed + with dreadful neigh,' nor was I less astounded at the + rattling of carriage-wheels, the cracking of whips, and the + vociferation of the gentlemen to the negroes who attended + them; but the discourse of Parson Weims calmed every + perturbation, for he preached the great doctrines of + Salvation as one who has experienced their power; about half + the congregation were negroes." + +This Parson Weems was no other than the author of Weems' "Life of +Washington," a readable but inaccurate biography that had a great +vogue seventy-five years ago. + +For many years Truro Church was desolate, and relic hunters made spoil +of the furnishings. But since 1876 it has been open for services once +more. + + + [Illustration: MOUNT AIRY, RICHMOND COUNTY, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 314] + +LXXI + +MOUNT AIRY, RICHMOND COUNTY, VIRGINIA + +THE PLANTATION HOME OF COLONEL JOHN TAYLOE + +The purchase for L500 of three thousand acres of productive land in +Charles County, on the Potomac, gave a big boost to the fortunes of +the Tayloe family of Virginia. This shrewd purchase was made by +Colonel John Tayloe, the son of William Tayloe (or Taylor) who came +from England in the seventeenth century. William Tayloe was a member +of the House of Burgesses in 1710. His son John became a member of the +Colonial Council in 1732, while his son John, who was born in 1721, +also had the honor of serving in the Council under Lord Dunmore, as +well as in the first Republican Council, during the administration of +Patrick Henry. He married the sister of Governor George Plater of +Maryland. Of his eight daughters one married Richard Lightfoot Lee, a +Signer of the Declaration of Independence, while another married +Colonel William Augustine Washington, a nephew of George Washington, +by whom he was educated. + +Colonel John Tayloe, the father of three daughters, was the builder +of Mount Airy, which was for many years the most superb mansion in +Virginia, and was so different from all other mansions that it +attracted many visitors, even in the days when transit was difficult. +Its twenty-five spacious rooms afforded generous accommodation for the +guests who were eager to accept the invitations of Colonel and Mrs. +Tayloe. Among the entertainments provided for these guests by the +thoughtful hosts were concerts by a band made up entirely of slaves +who had been instructed by their master. On occasion this band was +taken to the town house at Williamsburg, the capital of the State. + +The letters of Washington show that the builder of Mount Airy was an +ardent patriot, and his friend and associate. These two men were joint +executors of the estate of one of the Lees. From his headquarters in +the Craigie House at Cambridge the General wrote to Mount Airy a +letter about the estate, asking Tayloe to become sole executor. + +The varied interests of Colonel Tayloe were indicated by his +remarkable will, which asked, among other things, that one part of his +estate in Prince William County, Virginia, and Baltimore County, +Maryland, be kept intact and worked for the making of pig iron. Not +only did he own a number of other plantations, but he was a large +shipowner, and reaped unusual profits from trade. + +Perhaps the best known owner of Mount Airy was John Tayloe, III, who +was born in 1771, and was the only son in a family of twelve. He was +educated at Eton and Cambridge, England. Before going abroad he had +learned patriotism from his father, and on his return he was ready to +administer his estate for the benefit of the country as well as his +own family. When his inheritance was turned over to him the income was +sixty thousand dollars. Within a few years he increased this to +seventy-five thousand dollars. His father's iron- and ship-building +interests were conserved and enlarged. His master ship-builder at +Occoquon was his slave Reuben. + +During his residence at Mount Airy the splendor of the mansion was +increased. Among his guests were men who had stood shoulder to +shoulder with Washington during the Revolution, and those who later +became prominent as associates of Hamilton, Jay, Marshall, and +Pinckney. He married the daughter of Governor Ogle of Maryland, and +had fifteen children. + +The memorial by one of his sons, Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, says that "his +manners were refined and elegant. He was distinguished for his nice +sense of honor, and a scrupulous regard to his word at all times. His +wife was esteemed for sincerity and kindness of heart, graceful and +dignified manners, and true and unaffected piety." + +He took time for the services of his country. As Captain of Dragoons +he went to Western Pennsylvania, to help put down the whiskey +insurrection. When President Adams made him a Major of Dragoons, +General Washington wrote to him a warm letter of congratulation, but +Tayloe hesitated to accept the commission. He had just been elected as +a Federalist to the Virginia Senate, and he feared, as he wrote to +Washington, that if he resigned his seat the place would be filled by +an opponent of the administration. On February 12, 1799, Washington +replied that he was inclined to believe his civil service would be +more important than military service, but he asked that decision be +delayed until they could have a personal interview. Later, on the +breaking out of the War of 1812, he was made commander of the cavalry +of the District of Columbia, and saw active service. + +Washington's friendship led him to make his winter home in the +District of Columbia. In 1801 he occupied the Octagon House, then the +finest private residence in the city. When the British burned the +White House he was at Mount Airy. At once he sent a mounted messenger +to President Madison, offering the use of the Octagon as the temporary +Executive Mansion. + +His establishment at Mount Airy was maintained in remarkable splendor. +His household and equipages were the talk of the neighborhood. A lover +of fine horseflesh, he was the owner of some of the swiftest animals +of his day. + +The eldest son, John Tayloe, inherited his father's ardor for public +service. He was engaged brilliantly in the battles of the +_Constitution_ with the _Guerriere_, and with the _Cyano_ and the +_Levant_. After the action his native State gave him a sword, and he +was promoted to a lieutenancy. Though he was captured by the British, +he lived to return to Mount Airy, where he died in 1824. His father +died four years later, while his mother lived until 1855. + +Mount Airy has always been in the hands of a Tayloe. It is now in +possession of the family of the late Henry Tayloe. + + +LXXII + +TWO OF VIRGINIA'S OLDEST CHURCH BUILDINGS + +ST. LUKE'S, IN SMITHFIELD, AND ST. PETER'S, IN NEW KENT COUNTY + +Captain Smith in 1607 wrote of his discovery of the Indian kingdom of +Warrosquoyacke. Soon settlers were attracted to its fertile lands. +Twenty-seven years later the more than five hundred residents were +organized into Isle of Wight County. + +In 1632, the ancient brick church near Smithfield was built. The +tradition fixing this date was established in 1887, when the date 1632 +was read in some bricks that fell from the walls. + +The builder of the staunch church was Joseph Bridger, who was +Counsellor of State to Charles II. He is buried not far from the +church, and on his tomb is the inscription: "He dyed April 15 Anno +Domini 1688 Aged 58 years. Mournfully leaving his wife, three sons and +four daughters." + +The oldest vestry book dates from 1727, for the first book was +destroyed at the time of General Arnold's expedition made to Isle of +Wight County, in the effort to capture General Parker, of the +Continental Army. Fortunately, however, a few other records were +saved. An entry in 1727 spoke of "The Old Brick Church"; evidently the +name St. Luke's was of later origin. + +The architectural beauty of the old building is described in a +pleasing manner by Aymar Embury, II, the well-known New York +architect, in his "Early American Churches": + + "The building is an extremely picturesque brick church, + reminiscent not of the Renaissance work then becoming + dominant in England, but of the older Gothic; it is not at + all unlike many of the small English parish churches of the + sixteenth century, when the Gothic style was really extinct, + although its superficial characteristics, the buttresses and + the pointed arch, still obtained. The stepped gable at the + chancel end of the church is an unusual feature in English + architecture.... The tower is the only part of the building + which shows the Renaissance influence." + +When the building was some two hundred years old it began to fall into +disrepair; the people preferred to attend the church in Smithfield. +Bishop Meade wrote his "Old Churches and Families of Virginia" at the +time when the old church was most dilapidated. He said: + + "Its thick walls and high tower, like that of some English + castle, are still firm, and promise to be for a long time to + come. The windows, doors, and all the interior, are gone. It + is said that the eastern window--twenty-five feet high--was + of stained glass. This venerable building stands not far from + the main road leading from Smithfield to Suffolk, in an open + tract of woodland. The trees for some distance round it are + large and tall and the foliage dense, so that but little of + the light of the sun is thrown upon it. The pillars which + strengthen the walls, and which are wide at the base, + tapering toward the eaves of the house by stair-steps, have + somewhat mouldered, so as to allow various shrubs and small + trees to root themselves therein." + +For nearly fifty years the church was closed. But in 1884 Rev. David +Barr, who was in charge of a church nearby, began to raise funds for +the reconstruction of the building. He persisted in spite of many +discouragements. When matters looked darkest a man who signed himself +"A Virginian" made the following appeal: + + "There is still some plastering to be done in the tower, and + the pews are to be made or bought. The church cannot be + completed until the money is raised. Can no generous giver be + found who will contribute the money necessary to bring the + east window from London?... For sixty odd years the church + has stood there silent, without a service, facing and defying + storms and decay, appealing in its desolation to every + sentiment of the State, of the Church and of the Nation + against abandonment and desertion, and now in its half + completed condition, feeling the touch of revival and + restoration, it pleads more imploringly still for just enough + money to complete the repairs and to enable it once more to + enter upon its life of activity, and to utter again with + renewed joyousness the ancient but long suppressed voice of + prayer and of thanksgiving. Shall it appeal in vain?" + +The appeal was not in vain. The church was completed. Twelve beautiful +memorial windows were put in place. These bore the names of George +Washington, Joseph Bridger, the architect of the church, Robert E. +Lee, Rev. William Hubbard, the first rector, Sir Walter Raleigh, John +Rolfe, Captain John Smith, Bishops Madison, Moore, Meade, and Johns, +and Dr. Blair, whose connection with Bruton Church and William and +Mary College is told in another chapter of this volume. + +A building that is similar and yet in many respects quite different is +in New Kent County, about as far above Williamsburg as Smithfield is +below that university town. This is St. Peter's Church. It is thought +that the parish dates from 1654, though the present building was not +begun until 1701. The minute which tells of the first plan for the +structure is dated August 13, 1700: + + "Whereas, the Lower Church of this Parish is very much out of + Repair and Standeth very inconvenient for most of the + inhabitants of the said parish; Therefore ordered that as + soon as conveniently may be a new Church of Brick Sixty feet + long and twenty fower feet wide in the clear and fourteen + feet pitch with a Gallery Sixteen feet long be built and + Erected upon the Main Roade, by the School House near Thomas + Jackson's; and the Clerk is ordered to give a copy of this + order to Capt. Nich. Merewether who is Requested to show the + same to Will Hughes and desire him to draw a Draft of said + Church and to bee at the next vestry." + +The cost of the new church was one hundred and forty-six thousand +pounds of tobacco. This included the main building only, for the +belfry was not built until 1722. + +Rev. David Mossom, who was rector of the church from 1727 to 1767, was +the minister who married General Washington, at the White House, as +the home of his bride was called, a few miles from St. Peter's Church. +The story is told of this eccentric minister that on one occasion, +having quarrelled with his clerk, he rebuked him from the pulpit. The +latter avenged himself by giving out to the congregation the psalm in +which were these lines: + + "With restless and ungovern'd rage + Why do the heathen storm? + Why in such rash attempts engage + As they can ne'er perform?" + +The epitaph on the tomb of Mr. Mossom in St. Peter's churchyard states +that he was the first native American admitted to the office of +Presbyter in the Church of England. + + +LXXIII + +MONTICELLO, NEAR CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA + +THE HOME OF THOMAS JEFFERSON + +"Oh, my young master, they were all burnt, but ah! we saved your +fiddle!" + +So the negro servant replied to Thomas Jefferson who, on returning +from a trip, learning that his home at Shadwell had been burned, asked +after his books. To the negro's mind the fiddle was the most important +thing in the house. + +Fortunately the new mansion, Monticello, near Charlotte, which he had +designed, was so nearly completed that he was able to take up his +residence there. Two years later he led into the new house his bride, +Martha Skelton, a widow of twenty-three. + +Before the marriage Jefferson, in accordance with the Virginia law, in +company with Francis Eppes, entered into a license bond, of which the +following is a copy: + + "Know all men by these presents that we Thomas Jefferson and + Francis Eppes are held and firmly bound to the sovereign lord + the king his heirs and successors in the sum of fifty pounds + current money of Virginia, to the paiment of which well and + truly to be made we bind ourselves jointly and severally, our + joint and several heirs, executors and administrators, in + witness whereof we have hereto set our hands and seals this + twenty-third day of December in the year of our Lord one + thousand seven hundred and seventy one. The condition of the + above obligation is such that if there be no lawful cause to + obstruct a marriage intended to be had and solemnized between + the above bound Thomas Jefferson and Martha Skelton of the + County of Charles County, widow, for which a license is + desired, then this obligation is to be null and void, + otherwise the same is in full force." + +Edward Bacon, who was overseer at Monticello for twenty years, +described the estate in vivid words: + + "Monticello is quite a high mountain, in the shape of a + sugar-loaf. A winding road led up to the mansion. On the very + top of the mountain the forest trees were cut down, and ten + acres were cleared and levelled.... I know every room in that + house. Under the house and the terrace that surrounded it, + were the cisterns, ice-house, cellar, kitchen, and rooms for + all sorts of purposes. His servants' rooms were on one + side.... There were no negro and other out-houses around the + mansion, as you generally see on plantations. The grounds + around the house were beautifully ornamented with flowers and + shrubbery.... Back of the house was a beautiful lawn of two + or three acres, where his grandchildren used to play. + + "His garden was on the side of the mountain. I had it built + while he was President. It took a great deal of labor. We had + to blow out the rocks for the walls for the different + terraces, and then make the soil.... I used to send a servant + to Washington with a great many fine things for his table, + and he would send back the cart loaded with shrubbery." + +Jefferson spent most of his time on his estate until his death in +1826, except when he was called away for the service of his country. + +Nine years after the beginning of the happy married life in Monticello +there was a panic among the servants because of the approach of the +British. Because Jefferson was Governor of Virginia, it was thought +that of course the mansion would be pillaged. Mrs. Jefferson was put +in the carriage and sent to a place of safety, while Mr. Jefferson +remained at home, collecting his most valuable papers. Later he +followed his family. But when the soldiers reached the estate, the +first inquiry of the leader of the party was for the master of the +house. When he learned that Jefferson had escaped, he asked for the +owner's private rooms, and, on being shown the door which led to them, +he turned the key in the lock and ordered that nothing in the house +should be touched. This, it was explained, was in strict accordance +with the orders that had been given by General Tarleton; their sole +duty was to seize the Governor. + +A year later, when the Marquis de Chastellux, a nobleman from France, +visited Monticello, he was charmed with the house of which Mr. +Jefferson was the architect, and often one of the workmen. He said it +was "rather elegant, and in the Italian taste, though not without +fault; it consists of one large square pavilion, the entrance of which +is by two porticoes, ornamented with pillars. The ground floor +consists of a very large lofty saloon, which is to be decorated +entirely in the antique style; above it is a library of the same +size; two small wings, with only a ground floor and attic story, are +joined to this pavilion, and communicate with the kitchen, offices, +etc., which will form a kind of basement story, over which runs a +terrace." + +Another attractive picture was given by the Duc de la +Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, after his visit to Monticello in 1796. He +noted the fact that Jefferson owned five thousand acres, of which but +eleven hundred were cultivated. + +"I found him in the midst of the harvest," he wrote, "from which the +scorching heat of the sun does not prevent his attendance.... Every +article is made on his farm: his negroes are cabinet makers, +carpenters, masons, bricklayers, smiths, etc. The children he employs +in a nail factory, which yields already a considerable profit.... His +superior mind directs the management of his domestic concerns with the +same abilities, activity and regularity which he evinced in the +conduct of public affairs." + +Long absence from home and lavish hospitality wrecked the Jefferson +fortune, and when the owner of Monticello finally returned home after +his eight years as President, he was compelled to curtail his +expenses. But still he made guests welcome. It is said that at times +there were as many as fifty guests in the house at one time. One of +those who sought the Sage of Monticello in 1817 was Lieutenant Francis +Hall, who wrote of his veneration as he looked on "the man who drew up +the Declaration of American Independence, who shared in the Councils +by which her freedom was established, when the unbought voices of his +fellow-citizens called to the exercise of a dignity from which his +own moderation impelled him, when such an example was most salutary, +to withdraw; and who, while he dedicates the evening of his glorious +days to the pursuits of science and literature, shuns none of the +humble duties of private life; but, having filled a seat higher than +that of kings, succeeds with graceful dignity to that of the good +neighbor, and becomes the friendly adviser, lawyer, physician, and +even gardener of his vicinity." + +July 4, 1826, the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of +Independence, was the day of Jefferson's death. The sale of his estate +was sufficient to pay all his debts. To his daughter who was thus made +homeless, the legislatures of South Carolina and Virginia each voted +as a gift $10,000. + +On the stone placed over the grave of the Sage of Monticello was +carved the inscription which he himself had asked for: "Here was +buried Thomas Jefferson, author of the Declaration of American +Independence, of the Statute of Virginia for Religious Freedom, and +Father of the University of Virginia." + + + [Illustration: UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA, CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 326] + +LXXIV + +THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA AT CHARLOTTESVILLE + +THE CHILD OF THOMAS JEFFERSON'S OLD AGE + +When Thomas Jefferson retired from the Presidency he was surrounded at +Monticello by his daughter, her husband, and eleven grandchildren. +Daily association with the young people made him more anxious than +ever to carry out a plan that was the growth of years. He wanted to +see other children as happy as were those in his own home, and he felt +that the one thing he could do to increase their happiness would be to +see that the State made provision for their education. + +During the remainder of his life he never lost sight of his project. +While he did not live to see his system of common schools established +in Virginia, it was his joy to see the University of Virginia grow +under his hands from an academy to a college and then to a university. +From 1817 he labored for State appropriations for the school. A friend +in the State Senate assisted him nobly. The reader of the published +volume of the correspondence between the two men, a volume of 528 +pages, will see how untiring was the labor that had its reward when +the appropriation of funds made sure the founding of the university. +Three hundred thousand dollars were provided for construction, as well +as $15,000 a year for maintenance. + +Jefferson himself drew the plans for the buildings and superintended +the construction. Sarah N. Randolph, in "The Domestic Life of Thomas +Jefferson," says that "the architectural plan and form of government +and instruction for this institution afforded congenial occupation for +his declining years.... While the buildings were being erected, his +visits to them were daily; and from the northeast corner of the +terrace at Monticello he frequently watched the workmen engaged on +them, through a telescope which is still [1871] preserved in the +library of the University." + +Edmund Bacon, the overseer at Monticello, gave to Hamilton W. Pierson, +the author of "Jefferson at Monticello," a humorous account of the +early days of the project: + + "The act of the Legislature made it the duty of the + Commissioners to establish the University within one mile of + the Court House at Charlottesville. They advertised for + proposals for a site. Three men offered sites. The + Commissioners had a meeting at Monticello, and then went and + looked at all these sites. After they had made their + examination, Mr. Jefferson sent me to each of them, to + request them to send by me their price, which was to be + sealed up. Lewis and Craven each asked $17 per acre, and + Perry, $12. That was a mighty big price in those days.... + They took Perry's forty acres, at $12 per acre. It was a poor + old turned-out field, though it was finely situated. Mr. + Jefferson wrote the deed himself. Afterwards Mr. Jefferson + bought a large tract near it. It had a great deal of timber + and rock on it, which was used in building the University. + + "My next instruction was to get ten able-bodied hands to + commence the work.... Mr. Jefferson started from Monticello + to lay off the foundation, and see the work commenced. An + Irishman named Dinsmore, and I, went along with him. As we + passed through Charlottesville, I ... got a ball of twine, + and Dinsmore found some shingles and made some pegs.... Mr. + Jefferson looked over the ground some time, and then stuck + down a peg.... He carried one end of the line, and I the + other, in laying off the foundation of the University. He had + a little ruler in his pocket that he always carried with him, + and with this he measured off the ground, and laid off the + entire foundation, and then set the men at work." + +This foot-rule was shown to Dr. Pierson by Mr. Bacon, who explained +how he secured it: + + "Mr. Jefferson and I were once going along the bank of the + canal, and in crawling through some bushes and vines, it + [the ruler] fell out of his pocket and slid down the bank + into the river. Some time after that, when the water had + fallen, I went and found it, and carried it to Mr. Jefferson. + He told me I ... could keep it.... When I die, that rule can + be found locked up in that drawer. + + "After the foundations were nearly completed, they had a + great time laying the corner-stone. The old field was covered + with carriages and people. There was an immense crowd there. + Mr. Monroe laid the corner-stone. He was President at that + time.... He held the instruments, and pronounced it square. I + can see Mr. Jefferson's white head just as he stood there and + looked on. + + "After this he rode there from Monticello every day while the + University was building, unless the weather was very + stormy.... He looked after all the materials, and would not + allow any poor materials to go into the building if he could + help it." + +A letter from Jefferson to John Adams, written on October 12, 1823, +spoke of the "hoary winter of age." "Against this _tedium vitae_," he +said, "I am fortunately mounted on a hobby, which, indeed, I should +have better managed some thirty or forty years ago; but whose easy +amble is still sufficient to give exercise and amusement to an +octogenary rider. This is the establishment of a University, on a +scale more comprehensive, and in a country more healthy and central +than our old William and Mary, which these obstacles have long kept in +a state of languor and inefficiency." + +In designing the buildings Jefferson acknowledged his indebtedness to +Palladio, who guided him in his adaptation of Roman forms. The visitor +who is familiar with Rome is reminded of the baths of Diocletian, the +baths of Caracalla, and the temple of Fortuna Virilis, while a +reduction of the Pantheon, with a rotunda, is the central feature of +the group. + +The University was opened in March, 1825. Forty students were in +attendance, though at the beginning of the second year the number was +increased to one hundred and seventy-seven. + +The central feature of the collection of buildings, the wonderful +Rotunda, was badly injured in the fire of 1895 which destroyed the +Annex. The Rotunda was soon rebuilt according to Jefferson's original +plan, and the group of buildings is more beautiful than ever. + + + + +SEVEN: THROUGH THE SUNNY SOUTH + + _The long, grey moss that softly swings + In solemn grandeur from the trees, + Like mournful funeral draperies,-- + A brown-winged bird that never sings._ + + ALBERT BIGELOW PAINE. + + _O Magnet-South! O glistening perfumed South! my South! + O quick mettle, rich blood, impulse and love! good and evil! O all + dear to me! + O dear to me my birth-things--all moving things and the trees + where I was born--the grains, plants, rivers, + Dear to me my own slow sluggish rivers where they flow, distant, + over flats of silvery sands or through swamps._ + + _O the cotton plant! the growing fields of rice, sugar, hemp! + The cactus guarded with thorns, the laurel-tree with large white + flowers, + The range afar, the richness and barrenness, the old woods charged + with mistletoe and trailing moss, + The piney odor and the gloom, the awful natural stillness (here in + these dense swamps the freebooter carries his gun, and the + fugitive has his conceal'd hut;)_ + + The mocking bird, the American mimic, singing all the forenoon, + singing through the moonlit night, + The humming bird, the wild turkey, the raccoon, the opossum; + A Kentucky corn-field, the tall, graceful, long-leav'd corn, + slender, flapping, bright green, with tassels, with beautiful + ears each well-sheath'd in its husk; + O my heart! O tender and fierce pangs, I can stand them not, I + will depart; + O to be a Virginian where I grew up! O to be a Carolinian! + O longings irrepressible! O I will go back to old Tennessee and + never wander more. + + WALT WHITMAN. + + + + +SEVEN: THROUGH THE SUNNY SOUTH + + +LXXV + +THREE OLD CHURCHES IN CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA + +ST. MICHAEL'S, ST. PHILIP'S, AND THE HUGUENOT CHURCH, RELICS OF +COLONIAL DAYS + +The oldest church building in Charleston, South Carolina, St. +Michael's Protestant Episcopal Church, is a relic of three wars. At +the beginning of the Revolution the rector and the vestry disagreed; +the rector was a loyalist and most of the members were patriots. +Accordingly the rector resigned. Later the beautiful tower, which is +unlike any other church tower in America, was painted black, lest it +become a guiding beacon to the British fleet. Unfortunately the black +tower against the blue sky proved a better guide than a white tower +would have been. + +The clear-toned bells, which were cast in London in 1757, were taken +from the tower when the British evacuated the city in 1782, and were +sold in London as spoils of war. Fortunately a Mr. Ryhiner, once a +merchant in Charleston, learned of this, bought them, and sent them to +Charleston as a business venture. + +When the bells were landed on the wharf from the brig _Lightning_, on +November 20, 1783--according to Johnson's "Traditions of +Charleston"--"the overjoyed citizens took possession, and hurried them +up to the church and into the steeple, without thinking that they +might be violating a private right." In June, 1785, Mr. Ryhiner asked +for payment for the bells. Later a subscription was ordered to pay the +merchant. + +During the British occupation of the city horses were stabled in the +church, and the lead roof was removed, for use in bullet making. + +In 1811 and 1812 the church figured in the second war with Great +Britain. The vestry, whose patriotism was as great as ever, opened the +building more than once for meetings of the citizens who wished to +consider what they could do to help their country in the impending +conflict. + +During the Civil War the bells were taken to Columbia, to be cast into +cannon. Fortunately they were not used for this purpose, but during +Sherman's march to the sea they were burned and broken into small +pieces. A friend of the church in London, on learning of the disaster, +searched records of the bell-founders till he learned who had cast the +bells. These records told the proportions of metal used and the sizes +of the bells. Then the Londoner wrote to Charleston and asked that the +fragments be sent to him. When these were received in London they were +recast in the original moulds, which were discovered by an old +employee. The cost of recasting the bells and restoring them to their +places in the steeple was $7,723, of which sum the City Council +contributed $3,000; $2,200, the charge made for import duty, was later +returned to the church by special Act of Congress. + +For nearly twenty years after the receipt of these new-old bells, +they were used to sound fire-alarms, as well as for calling to the +services of the church. + +The venerable building has suffered from fire, wind, and earthquake, +as well as from war. In 1825 a cyclone damaged the spire and the roof, +and in 1886 earthquake cracked the walls, destroyed a portion of the +tower, and did so much further damage that a Charleston paper spoke of +it as the "saddest wreck of all." At first it was feared that the +building would have to be demolished, but repairs were found to be +possible at a cost of $15,000. + +The structure dates from 1752, when Governor Glenn of South Carolina +laid the corner stone. The cost was $32,775.87. + +St. Michael's parish was set off in 1751 from St. Philip's parish. The +first St. Philip's Church was burned in 1681 or 1682. A second church +was opened in 1723. This famous building survived until 1835, in spite +of wars and fires. The building was saved during the fire of 1796 by a +slave who climbed to the tower and threw to the ground a burning +brand. As a reward the vestry purchased his freedom. But during the +great fire of February 15, 1835, the edifice was destroyed. + +The old church had been so much a part of the life of the city and was +so thoroughly identified with the history of the country, that the +citizens rejoiced when the decision was reached to rebuild it in +practically every detail like the original, with the addition of a +chancel and spire. + +Older than either St. Philip's or St. Michael's, as an organization, +is the Huguenot Church of Charleston. The early records of the +congregation were destroyed in the fire of 1740, though the building +was saved. This first building was blown up during the fire of 1796, +in a vain effort to stay the progress of the conflagration. A second +building followed in 1800, and the present building was erected in +1828, when English displaced the French language in the services. + +Many of the early members became famous in history. The tablets +erected to their memory are so numerous that the Huguenot Church might +well dispute with St. Philip's Church the title, "The Westminster of +South Carolina." + + + [Illustration: PRINGLE HOUSE, CHARLESTON, S. C. + _Photo by H. P. Cook_ + See page 336] + +LXXVI + +THE HOUSE OF REBECCA MOTTE, CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA + +THE SPARTAN MATRON WHO HELPED BURN HER OWN PROPERTY + +Charleston, South Carolina, was only about thirty years old when the +Englishman, Robert Brewton, and the Huguenot exile, John de la Motte, +took up their residence there. In 1758 Robert Brewton's daughter +Rebecca married Jacob Motte, grandson of the Huguenot. + +Three daughters came to the Motte home, and the family lived quietly +until the outbreak of the Revolution. In 1775 Mrs. Motte's brother, +Miles Brewton, sailed for England with his family, intending to leave +them with relatives there while he returned to Charleston for the +service of his country. But the vessel was lost, and was never +heard from again. His Charleston house on King Street, which was built +about 1765, became the property of his sister. + +When the war broke out, Mrs. Motte, knowing that it was impossible for +her husband to become a soldier because of his failing health, decided +to do her part for her country. Fortifications were to be built, and +many laborers were needed, so she sent to her plantation for all the +able-bodied men; these she placed at the disposal of those in charge +of the work of defence. + +She had her reward when, first in 1776, and again in 1779, the British +forces were unable to secure possession of the town. The third +attempt, made by Sir Henry Clinton in 1780, was successful. For nearly +three years the town was in the enemy's control. The Motte house was +made headquarters by Clinton and his staff. The Mottes were crowded +into a small room, while the British lived in comfort in the large +apartments. Mrs. Motte divided her time between her invalid husband, +her timid daughters, and the invaders. It was her custom to preside at +the long dinner table, but the young ladies were never allowed to +appear in the presence of the officers. + +A reminder of the presence of the unwelcome guests is still to be seen on +the marble mantel in one of the rooms--a caricature of Clinton scratched +on the polished surface, evidently with a diamond point. In the same +room the women of Charleston--who were accustomed to go about the +streets in mourning, during the period of the occupation--presented a +petition to Lord Rawdon, asking for the pardon of Isaac Hayne, a +patriot who had been condemned for some infraction of the regulations +of the invaders. Their petition for clemency was in vain, though it +was emphasized by the presence of Hayne's two little children. + +After the death of Mr. Motte, in January, 1781, Mrs. Motte and her +daughters secured permission to leave Charleston that they might +return to the family plantation on the Congaree, thirty or forty miles +from Columbia. They were disappointed in their desire to be alone, for +it was not long till the English decided to build on the estate one of +their long line of military stations. Earthworks were thrown up around +the house, which became known as Fort Motte. Again the family were +crowded into a few rooms, while officers occupied the remainder. + +After a time Mrs. Motte was asked to retire to a small house on the +plantation, a rough structure, covered with weather-boards, +unplastered and only partially lined. At first it seemed that there +was no place here to conceal the silverware brought from Fort Motte. +How the difficulty was solved has been told in "Worthy Women of Our +First Century": + + "Some one suggested that the unfinished state of the walls of + their sitting-room afforded a convenient hiding place; and + they set to work to avail themselves of it. Nailing tacks in + the vacancy between the outer and inner boarding, and tying + strings around the various pieces of silver, they hung them + along the inner wall. Shortly afterwards a band of marauders + did actually invade the premises; and one more audacious than + the others jumped on a chair and thrust his bayonet into the + hollow wall, saying he would soon find what they had come in + search of; but, rapping all along on the floor within the + wall, he did not once strike against anything to reward bad + perseverance." + +After a time General Marion and Colonel Lee led up troops for the +siege of Fort Motte. Fearing that British reinforcements were on the +way, they decided they must make an attack at once. The best way +seemed to be to set fire to the main building. The American leaders, +knowing that this was the home of Mrs. Motte, took counsel with her. +"Do not hesitate a moment," was the prompt reply of the patriotic +woman. Then she added, "I will give you something to facilitate the +destruction." So saying, she handed to General Lee a quiver of arrows +from the East Indies which, so she had been told by the ship captain +who brought them to Charleston, would set on fire any wood against +which they were thrown. + +Two of the arrows were fired from a gun without result, but the third +set fire to the shingles of the house. The efforts of the garrison to +extinguish the flames were in vain, and before long the fortress was +surrendered to the patriots. In later years, when Mrs. Motte was +praised for her part in the siege, she was accustomed to say, "Too +much has been made of a thing that any American woman would have +done." + +After the war Mrs. Motte returned to the house in Charleston. The +daughters married, and numerous grandchildren played in the rooms +where the British officers lived during the occupation of Charleston. +The youngest of these granddaughters lived in the house in 1876, when +the story of Rebecca Motte was written for the Women's Centennial +Executive Committee. + +During her last years in the old mansion, Mrs. Motte was proudly +pointed out to visitors to the city. One of her great-grandchildren +said that at the time "she was rather under-sized and slender, with a +pale face, blue eyes, and grey hair that curled slightly under a +high-crowned ruffled mob-cap. She always wore a square white +neckerchief pinned down in front, tight sleeves reaching only to the +elbow, with black silk mittens on her hands and arms; a full skirt +with huge pockets, and at her waist a silver chain, from which hung +her pin-cushion and scissors and a peculiarly bright bunch of keys." + +The body of this gracious patriot was buried in old St. Philip's +Church, another of the Revolutionary landmarks of the Palmetto City. + +The mansion which she made famous should be called the Brewton House, +or the Motte House. But a Motte married an Alston, and an Alston +married a Pringle, and so many families of the latter name have been +associated with the place that their name is popularly given to it. + + + [Illustration: INDEPENDENT PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, SAVANNAH, GA. + _Photo furnished by Rev. Rockwell S. Brank, Savannah_ + See page 340] + +LXXVII + +THE INDEPENDENT CHURCH, SAVANNAH, GEORGIA + +FOR WHICH KING GEORGE II MADE A LAND GRANT + +When George II, of his "special Grace, certain knowledge and meer +motion," gave a deed for a lot in Savannah, "in our province of +Georgia," he declared that it was "for the use and benefit of such of +our loving subjects ... as are or shall be professors of the Doctrines +of the Church of Scotland, agreeable to the Westminster Confession of +Faith." The further stipulation was made that the annual rent, if +demanded, should be "one pepper corn." + +The date of the grant was January 16, 1756, and within the three years +allowed for the erection of the building a brick structure was ready +for the use of the Independent Presbyterian Church. The church was +independent in fact as well as in name. There was at first no +presbytery in Georgia with which it could unite, and when a presbytery +was organized, this independent relation continued. + +The first pastor was Rev. John Joachim Zubly, who came to the Colonies +from Switzerland. He remained with the church until 1778, and became a +prominent figure among the patriots of the early years of the +Revolution. When the first Provincial Congress of Georgia met in +Savannah, July 4, 1775, it adjourned, immediately after organization, +to the Independent Church, where Dr. Zubly preached a sermon for which +he received the public thanks of Congress. + +_The London Magazine_ for January, 1776, contained an impassioned +appeal for the Colonies, which was signed by Dr. Zubly. The editor +stated that the communication was printed at the request of "an old +correspondent," who signed himself "O." It is supposed that this +correspondent was General James E. Oglethorpe, the founder of Georgia. +A few months later Dr. Zubly went to Philadelphia, as a member of the +second Continental Congress. He had also been a member of the first +Congress in 1774. + +During the siege of Savannah by the British the church building was +badly injured by British cannon, in spite of the fact that it was used +as a hospital. Later the British used the church as barracks. A +visitor who entered the city in 1784 said that he found the church in +a ruinous condition. It was promptly repaired, however, and services +were resumed. + +But there was another pastor in the pulpit. In 1778 Dr. Zubly +resigned, probably because, for some strange reason, he deserted the +Colonies and made known his allegiance to Great Britain. + +Fire destroyed the original building in 1796, and a fine new church +was built. Twenty-one years later the rapidly increasing congregation +made necessary a much larger structure. The new church was modelled +after St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, London, and more than two years were +required for its construction. The cost was $96,108.67-1/2, a large sum +for that day in a town of ten thousand people. Although the middle +aisle was eleven feet wide and each of the side aisles four and a half +feet wide, there were seatings for 1,350 people. The beautifully +proportioned steeple was 223 feet high. The day after the dedication a +local paper said that "for grandeur of design and nature of execution, +we presume this church is not surpassed by any in the United States." +Many architectural writers have told rapturously of the wonders of +this building. + +President James Monroe and his suite, as well as many other +distinguished visitors, were reverent worshippers in the church on the +day of dedication. + +Lowell Mason, who was organist of the church from 1815 to 1827, +composed the popular melody to which Bishop Heber's missionary hymn, +"From Greenland's Icy Mountains," is usually sung. This melody was +first played by him for the Sunday school of the church, whose +organization dates from 1804. + +Dr. S. K. Axson, the grandfather of Ellen Axson, the first wife of +President Woodrow Wilson, was pastor of the church from 1857 to 1889. +The Wilson marriage ceremony was performed by Dr. Axson in the manse +of the church. + +All Savannah mourned when, on April 6, 1889, firebrands tossed by the +wind lodged on a cornice of the graceful steeple, too high to be +reached. Soon the old church was in ruins. But the city resolved that +the historic church must be restored. A new building was erected which +is an exact reproduction of the former church. To it, as to its +predecessors, ecclesiastical architects go on pilgrimage as a part of +their education. + +One of the old customs still continued in the church is the assembling +of the communicants at a table which is laid the entire length of the +broad aisle, as well as in the transept aisle. + + + [Illustration: THE CABILDO, NEW ORLEANS, LA. + _Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_ + See page 343] + +LXXVIII + +THE CABILDO OF NEW ORLEANS + +WHICH SAW THE TRANSFER OF LOUISIANA TO THE UNITED STATES + +When Count Alejandro O'Reilly, Irish Lieutenant-General of Spain, +entered New Orleans on July 24, 1769, he came as the avenger of the +disorders that followed the transfer of Louisiana to Spain by the +Treaty of Paris. After putting to death some of the leaders in the +revolt, he reorganized the civil government. Among other innovations +he instituted the Cabildo as the law-making body for the province, to +take the place of the French superior council. The meeting place was +a building on the Place d'Armes. In this square, on the coming of +O'Reilly, the flag of France had been displaced by that of Spain as +Aubrey said, "Gentlemen, by order of the King, my master, I absolve +you from your oath of fidelity and obedience to his most Christian +majesty." The Spanish and French officers then had gone together to +the cathedral, next door to the meeting place of the Cabildo. + +The original building occupied by the Cabildo was destroyed in the +fire of 1788, when, in less than five hours, eight hundred and sixteen +buildings were burned. The loss, amounting to three million dollars, +was a blessing in disguise, for it cleared the ground for the +reconstruction of the city under the leadership of Don Andres +Almonaster y Roxas, who was a member of the Cabildo. He had become +rich since his arrival with the Spaniards, and he had a vision of a +city glorified through his wealth. + +First he built a schoolhouse, a church, and a hospital. On one side of +the church he built a convent; on the other side he erected a new town +hall, the Cabildo. The walls--which are as sturdy to-day as in +1795--are of brick, half the thickness of the ordinary brick. Shell +lime was used for the mortar. Originally the Cabildo was two stories +in height, with a flat roof; the mansard roof was added in 1851. At +the same time the open arches of the second story loggia that +corresponded to the arcade on the ground floor were closed, that there +might be more room for offices. + +For eight years more the Cabildo continued its sessions under Spanish +rule. Then came the news that Louisiana had been transferred by Spain +to France. Great preparations were made for the ceremonies that were +to accompany the lowering of the Spanish flag and the raising of the +French colors in the square before the Cabildo. Then the prefect +Laussat was thunderstruck by the coming of word that Napoleon had +appointed a Commission not only to receive the colony from Spain but +also to give it into the hands of the United States, to whom the vast +territory had been sold. + +The first transfer took place on November 30, 1803. The official +document was signed in the Sala Capitular, the hall where the Cabildo +met, and was read from the centre gallery. Then the tricolor of France +replaced the flag of Spain. + +December 20, 1803, was the date of the transfer to the United States. +The American Commission met the French Commission in the Sala +Capitular of the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall, as the French called +the Cabildo. Governor Claiborne received the keys of the city, and the +tricolor on the flagstaff gave way to the Stars and Stripes. A vast +company of citizens watched the ceremonies, listened to the addresses, +and looked at the American troops in the square, as well as at the +French soldiers who were to have no further power in the province. + +Grace King, in "New Orleans, the Place and the People," tells what +followed: + + "When, twenty-one days before, the French flag was flung to + the breeze, for its last brief reign in Louisiana, a band of + fifty old soldiers formed themselves into a guard of honor, + which was to act as a kind of death watch to their national + colors. They stood now at the foot of the staff and received + in their arms the Tricolor as it descended, and while the + Americans were rending the air with their shouts, they + marched silently away, their sergeant bearing it at their + head. All uncovered before it; the American troops, as they + passed, presented arms to it. It was carried to the + government house, and left in the hands of Laussat." + +During the years since that momentous transfer the Cabildo has +continued to be the centre of historical interest in New Orleans. In +1825 Lafayette was quartered here. In 1901 President McKinley was +received in the building. In 1903 the Centennial of the Louisiana +Purchase was observed in the Sala Capitular, which had been for many +years the meeting place of the State Supreme Court. The great hall is +almost as it was when the Cabildo of Don Almonaster met there. + +Since 1910 the Cabildo, in common with the Presbytere, the old Civil +District Court, a building of nearly the same age and appearance, +located on the other side of the Cathedral, has been the Louisiana +State Museum. The curios are shown in a large hall on the ground +floor. Among these is the flag used by General Jackson at the battle +of New Orleans. + +From this hall of relics a door leads to a courtyard, which is lined +by tiers of gloomy cells. Stocks and other reminders of the old +Spanish days are in evidence. + +The old Place d'Armes is now called Jackson Square. On either side are +the Pontalba buildings, which were erected by the daughter of Don +Andres Almonaster y Roxas, who inherited millions from her generous +father. On the spot where the Stars and Stripes were raised in 1803 is +the statue to General Jackson, the victor of the battle of New +Orleans, to which the same public-spirited woman was a large +contributor. + +The tomb of Don Andres is shown in the Cathedral he gave to the +people, by the side of the Cabildo which he built for the city he +loved. + + +LXXIX + +THE ALAMO, SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS + +"THERMOPYLAE HAD HER MESSENGER OF DEFEAT: THE ALAMO HAD NONE" + +Early in the eighteenth century the Spaniards built in Texas, then a +part of Mexico, a number of staunch structures that were designed to +serve not only as chapels but also as fortresses. The mission that at +length became known as the Alamo was first built on the Rio Grande in +1710, and during the next forty-seven years was rebuilt four times in +a new location, before it was given a final resting-place at San +Antonio, on the banks of the Alazan River. There it was called Alamo, +or Poplar Church. Though the Alamo was begun in 1744, it was not +completed until 1757. + +For nearly eighty years there was nothing specially notable about the +building. Then came the events that made the name famous. + +In 1832 Sam Houston was sent to Texas by President Jackson to arrange +treaties with the Indians for the protection of settlers on the +border. Just at this time settlers in Texas, which was then a part of +the state of Coahuila, were seeking equal privileges with the other +Mexican states. Most of the settlers had come from the United States, +and they hoped that in time Texas might become a part of that +country. + +On February 13, 1833, Houston wrote to President Jackson that the time +was ripe for getting hold of the country. Less than three months later +he was asked to serve as a delegate to a constitutional convention, +which demanded from Mexico the organization of the territory into +states, and was made the chairman of the committee which drew up for +the proposed states a constitution based on that of the United States. +Stephen F. Austin, who has been called "The Father of Texas," went to +Mexico City with the petition. But he was imprisoned, and the request +of Texas was denied by Santa Anna, president of Mexico. + +Later, when the colonists attempted to defend themselves against the +Indians and other lawbreakers, the demand was made that they give up +their arms. + +The organization of a provincial government followed in 1834, and +Houston was chosen commander-in-chief of the army. The brief war with +Mexico was marked by a number of heroic events, chief of which was the +defence of the Alamo, where a small force of Texans resisted more than +ten times the number of Mexicans. + +When the army of Santa Anna approached San Antonio, on February 22, +1836, one hundred and forty-five men, under the leadership of Colonel +James Bowie and Lieutenant-Colonel William B. Travis, retired within +the church fortress. For nearly two weeks these heroic men defended +themselves, and the enemy did not gain entrance until every one of +them was killed. + +The details of the heroic struggle were not known until 1860, when +Captain R. M. Potter printed an account in the San Antonio _Herald_, +in which he had patiently pieced together the reports that came to him +through those whom he regarded most dependable among the besiegers, +and from one who was an officer in the garrison until within a few +days of the assault. + +Within the walls a well had been dug on the very day the Mexican Army +entered the town. Thus a plentiful supply of water supplemented the +store of meat and corn for the defenders. + +A message sent out by Colonel Travis on the night of March 3 told of +the events of the first days of the siege: + + "With a hundred and forty-five men I have held this place ten + days against a force variously estimated from 1,500 to 6,000, + and I shall continue to hold it till I get relief from my + countrymen, or I will perish in the attempt. We have had a + shower of bombs and cannon-balls continually falling among us + the whole time, yet none of us have fallen." + +Santa Anna led a final assault on March 6. Scaling ladders, axes, and +fascines were to be in the hands of designated men. Five columns were +to approach the wall just at daybreak. + +At the first onset Colonel Travis was killed and breaches were made in +the walls. The outer walls and batteries were abandoned, and the +defenders retired to the different rooms within. + + "From the doors, windows, and loopholes of the several rooms + around the area the crack of the rifle and the hiss of the + bullet came fierce and fast; as fast the enemy fell and + recoiled in his first efforts to charge. The gun beside which + Travis fell was now turned against the buildings, as were + also some others, and shot after shot was sent crashing + through the doors and barricades of the several rooms. Each + ball was followed by a storm of musketry and a charge; and + thus room after room was carried at the point of the bayonet, + when all within them had died fighting to the last. The + struggle was made up of a number of separate and desperate + combats, often hand to hand, between squads of the garrison + and bodies of the enemy. The bloodiest spot about the fort + was the long barrack and the ground in front of it, where the + enemy fell in heaps." + +David Crockett was among those who were killed in one of the rooms. He +had joined the defenders a few days before the beginning of the siege. + +The chapel was the last point taken. "Once the enemy in possession of +the large area, the guns could be turned to fire into the door of the +church, only from fifty to a hundred yards off. The inmates of the +last stronghold fought to the last, and continued to fire down from +the upper works after the enemy occupied the floor. Towards the close +of the struggle Lieutenant Dickenson, with his child in his arms, or, +as some accounts say, tied to his back, leaped from the east embrasure +of the chapel, and both were shot in the act. Of those he left behind +him the bayonet soon gleaned what the bullet had left; and in the +upper part of that edifice the last defender must have fallen." + +This final assault lasted only thirty minutes. In that time the +defenders of Texas won immortal fame. Four days before, the Republic +of Texas had been proclaimed. Those who fell in the Alamo were hailed +the heroes of the struggle. "Remember the Alamo!" was the battle cry +of the war for independence that was waged until the Mexican Army was +routed at San Jacinto, April 21, 1836. + +On the capitol grounds at Austin, Texas, stands a monument to the +heroes of the Alamo, with the inscription: "Thermopylae had her +messenger of defeat; the Alamo had none." + + + [Illustration: THE HERMITAGE, NASHVILLE, TENN. + _Photo by Wiles, Nashville_ + See page 351] + +LXXX + +THE HERMITAGE, NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE + +ANDREW JACKSON'S RETREAT IN THE INTERVALS OF HIS PUBLIC SERVICE + +Andrew Jackson was a pioneer. From North Carolina he crossed the +mountains to what was then the Western District. He was a lawyer, but +he wanted to be a farmer also. His first land purchase was made in +1791. This land was lost in the effort to pay the debts of another. + +The second effort at farming was more successful. This was begun in +1804, when he bought a tract of some twenty-eight thousand acres, six +thousand acres of which he retained permanently as the Hermitage +plantation. From the beginning he showed that he had a genius for +farming. Crops were large, and his wealth grew rapidly, until he +became the wealthiest man in all that country. After a few years he +became famous as a breeder of race horses. He owned a track of his own +not far from the mansion. + +For fifteen years Mr. and Mrs. Jackson lived in a log cabin. But they +maintained a large establishment. They had their slaves, and they +drove in a carriage drawn by four horses. And they entertained +royally. Jackson's biographer, James Parton, tells of a Nashville lady +who said that she had often been at the Hermitage "when there were in +each of the four available rooms not a guest merely, but a family, +while the young men and solitary travellers who chanced to drop in +disposed themselves on the piazza, or any other shelter about the +house." + +The log house was still the plantation-house when General Jackson's +neighbors gathered to welcome him home as the victor of New Orleans. +In the response he gave to their greeting he made a prophecy: + + "Years will continue to develop our inherent qualities, + until, from being the youngest and the weakest, we shall + become the most powerful nation in the universe." + +General Jackson was popular with all in the neighborhood of the +plantation. To his slaves he was a hero. To his wife he was devoted. +Parton says that he always treated her as if she was his pride and +glory. And words can faintly describe her devotion to him. She also +was popular among the servants; her treatment of them was courteous in +the extreme. A visitor to the Hermitage told of being present at the +hour of evening devotions. Just before these began the wife of the +overseer came into the room. Mrs. Jackson rose and made room for her +on the sofa. One of the guests expressed her surprise to a lady +sitting next her. "That is the way here," the lady whispered, "and if +she had not done it, the General would." + +Peter Cartwright, the famous pioneer preacher, told in his +Autobiography an incident that revealed the General's nature. +Cartwright was preaching, when the pastor of a church, who was with +him in the pulpit, leaned forward and whispered, "General Jackson has +just come in." The outspoken preacher replied, so that every one could +hear: "What is that if General Jackson has come in? In the eyes of God +he is no bigger than any other man!" After the service Jackson told +Mr. Cartwright of his hearty approval of the sentiment. + +That there might be more room for entertaining passing strangers like +Mr. Cartwright, as well as hosts of friends, Jackson began to build +The Hermitage in 1819, of brick made on the plantation. When this +house was burned in 1836, a new house was built on the old foundation, +and with the same general plan. The building has the rather unusual +length of 104 feet. Six pillars support the roof in front and in rear. + +Between the building of the first house and its successor came most of +Jackson's political career. During this period also was the visit of +General Lafayette. On this occasion the Frenchman, recognizing the +pair of pistols which he had given to Washington in 1778, said that he +had a real satisfaction in finding them in the hands of one so worthy +of possessing them. "Yes, I believe myself to be worthy of them," +Jackson began his reply, in words that seemed far less modest than the +conclusion proved them; for he added: "if not for what I have done, at +least for what I wished to do, for my country." + +The Hermitage never seemed the same place to Jackson after the death +of his wife, on December 22, 1828, only a few days after his first +election to the presidency. + +Two years after his final return from Washington, after attending +service at the little Presbyterian church on the estate, he begged the +pastor, Dr. Edgar, to return home with him. The pastor was unable to +accept, but promised to be on hand early in the morning. All night the +General read and prayed. Next morning, when Dr. Edgar came, he asked +to be admitted to the Church. + +Parton says that from this time to the end of his life "General +Jackson spent most of his leisure hours in reading the Bible, +Biblical commentaries, and the hymn-book, which last he always +pronounced in the old-fashioned way, _hime_-book. The work known as +'Scott's Bible' was his chief delight; he read it through twice before +he died. Nightly he read prayers in the presence of his family and +household servants." + +Soon after he united with the Church, the congregation wished to +choose him to the office of elder. "No," he said, "I am too young in +the Church for such an office. My countrymen have given me high +honors, but I should esteem the office of ruling elder in the Church +of Christ a far higher honor than any I have ever received." + +For six years he continued to be an unofficial member of the church. +Then, on June 8, 1845, he said to those who had gathered about his +death-bed: "I am my God's. I belong to Him. I go but a short time +before you, and I want to meet you all, white and black, in heaven." + +Less than two months before his death, when the President and +Directors of the National Institute proposed that an imported +sarcophagus in their possession be set apart for his last +resting-place, he declined, because he wished to lie by the side of +his wife, in the garden of The Hermitage. + +Until 1888 Andrew Jackson, Jr., and after his death, his widow +occupied the house, during the last thirty-two years of this period as +caretakers for the State, which had bought the property for $48,000. +Since 1889 the mansion and twenty-five acres of ground have been cared +for by the Ladies' Hermitage Association. + + + [Illustration: ASHLAND, LEXINGTON, KY. + _Photo by E. C. Hall_ + See page 355] + +LXXXI + +ASHLAND, LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY + +THE HOME OF HENRY CLAY FOR FORTY-SIX YEARS + +Henry Clay's mother, having married Captain Henry Watkins, moved from +Hanover, Virginia, to Woodford County, Kentucky, in 1792. As soon as +the future statesman was admitted to practice in the Virginia Court of +Appeals, he decided to follow her. Accordingly, in November, 1797, he +became a resident of Lexington. Three years later the _Kentucke +Gazette_, the first paper published west of the mountains, told of "an +eloquent oration" that was "delivered by Henry Clay, Esquire." + +The year before the young lawyer received this flattering notice he +married Lavinia Hart, of Lexington. Seven years were spent in rented +quarters, but in 1806 he purchased an estate about a mile and a half +from town. + +Clay took the keenest pleasure in the estate. Once he wrote to a +friend: + + "I am in one respect better off than Moses. He died in sight + of and without reaching the Promised Land. I occupy as good a + farm as any he would have found had he reached it, and + 'Ashland' has been acquired not by hereditary descent but by + my own labor." + +However, it was only at intervals that the proud owner was able to +enjoy Ashland. After 1803 the longest period of residence was six +years, and this was toward the close of his life. + +The management of the property was largely in the hands of Mrs. Clay, +and the prosperity of the plantation was proof of her capability. From +Washington he wrote frequently of things he would like to see done. He +was especially interested in blooded stock which he secured in the +East and abroad. Once he wrote proudly of the fact that there were on +the estate specimens of "the Maltese ass, the Arabian horse, the +Merino and Saxe Merino sheep, the English Hereford and Durham cattle, +the goat, the mule and the hog." His race horses were famous, and he +delighted to handle them himself. He also liked to feed the pigs, even +when he was an old man. + +There were many slaves at Ashland, and they were all attached to their +master. His will provided for their emancipation, under wise +conditions. Once, when a friend bequeathed him twenty-five slaves, he +sent them to Liberia, by way of New Orleans. + +Harriet Martineau, who visited Ashland in 1835, told of her pleasant +impression of the place and its owner: + + "I stayed some weeks in the house of a wealthy landowner in + Kentucky. Our days were passed in great luxury, and the + hottest of them very idly. The house was in the midst of + grounds gay with verdure and flowers, in the opening month of + June, and our favorite seats were the steps of the hall, and + chairs under the trees. From there we could watch the play of + the children on the grass plot, and some of the drolleries of + the little negroes.... There were thirty-three horses in the + stables, and we roved about the neighboring country + accordingly...." + +As the years passed visitors flocked to Ashland in ever-increasing +numbers. Many of them were politicians, but more were plain people +who were devoted to Clay and could not understand why the country +refused to elect him President. In 1844, during his longest period of +continuous residence at Ashland, he received word of the disappointing +result of the election. After a few days, when he was walking on the +turnpike near the house, he was startled by a woman who, on passing +him, burst into tears. When he asked her why she wept, she said: + + "I have lost my father, my husband, and my children, and + passed through other painful trials; but all of them together + have not given me so much sorrow as the late disappointment + of your friends." + +A story is also told of a bride and groom who visited Ashland on the +day the news of defeat was received. The journey was continued down +the Mississippi River. On the boat the groom was taken seriously ill. +The physician who was called to attend him was puzzled to define the +ailment until the bride said that the cause was the defeat of Henry +Clay. The old doctor threw his arms about the patient's neck and +cried, "There is no cure for a complaint like that." + +The sting of defeat was forgotten one day in 1845. Mr. Clay was in his +bank in Lexington, prepared to pay a part of the indebtedness that had +all but swamped him, so that he felt he might have to sacrifice +Ashland. The bank told him that about $50,000 had been deposited in +the bank by his friends from all parts of the country, enough to pay +all his debts. He never knew the names of the generous friends who had +made possible the retention of the property. + +He thought he was to spend the remainder of his days at home, and +that he would die there in peace. One day he said, in an address in +Lexington, "I felt like an old stag which has been long coursed by the +hunters and the hounds, through brakes and briars, and over distant +plains, and has at last returned to his ancient lair to lay himself +down and die." + +Again in 1848 he tasted defeat, though on this occasion it was in the +nominating convention, not in the election. In the trying days that +followed he was sustained by his Christian faith. He had been baptized +in the parlor at Ashland on June 22, 1847. The reality of his +religious convictions was seen one day by what he said to a company of +friends who had been talking in a despairing manner of the future of +the country. Pointing to the Bible on the table, he said, "Gentlemen, +I do not know anything but that Book which can reconcile us to such +events." + +In 1849 Clay was sent to the United States Senate because the +legislature of Kentucky felt that he was needed to help in the +solution of questions raised by the Mexican War. He spent three years +in Washington, then died in the midst of his work. After a journey +that showed what a place he had won in the hearts of the people, his +body was taken to Lexington. The catafalque lay in state in Ashland +over one night. Next day the body was buried near Lexington. + +His son, James B. Clay, who purchased the estate at auction, tore down +the house because of its weakened foundations, but rebuilt it of the +same materials, on the old site, and on almost the identical plans. +Both outside and inside the mansion has practically the appearance of +the original. + +Before the Civil War Ashland was purchased by the State College, but +in 1882 it became the property of Major Henry Clay McDowell, whose +widow lived there for many years. She was the daughter of Henry Clay, +Jr., whose death at the Battle of Buena Vista was a sore blow to one +who was always a fond father. + + + [Illustration: SPORTSMAN'S HALL, WHITLEY'S STATION, KY + _Photo by Miss M. E. Sacre, Stanford, Ky._ + See page 359] + +LXXXII + +SPORTSMAN'S HALL, WHITLEY'S STATION, KENTUCKY + +THE HOME OF THE MAN WHO KILLED TECUMSEH + +"Then, Billy, if I was you, I would go and see!" + +Thus replied Esther Whitley of Augusta, Virginia, to her husband +William Whitley, when, early in 1775, he had told her that he had a +fine report of Kentucky, and that he thought they could get their +living in the frontier settlements with less hard work than was +required in Virginia. + +Whitley took his wife at her word. Two days later, with axe and plow +and gun and kettle, he was on his way over the mountains. Daniel Boone +had not yet marked out the Wilderness Road that was to become the +great highway of emigration from Virginia to Kentucky. At first his +only companion was his brother-in-law, George Clark, but on the way +seven others joined the party. + +During the next six years he was one of the trusted pioneers at +Boonesborough and Harrod's Fort, two stations on the Wilderness Road. +When he had a house ready for his wife, he returned to Virginia, and +brought her to Kentucky. It is said that she was the third white woman +to cross the Cumberland Mountains, Mrs. Daniel Boone and her daughter +being the first and second. The claim has been made that their +daughter, Louisa, who was born in Boonesborough, was the first white +child born in the present limits of Kentucky. + +Louisa was perhaps four years old when Whitley removed to the vicinity +of Crab Orchard, the famous assembling place for parties about to take +the dangerous journey back to Virginia. Two miles from the settlement +he built Whitley's Fort. In 1788 he felt able to build for his growing +family the first brick house in Kentucky. The brick were brought from +Virginia, and the man who laid the brick was given a farm of five +hundred acres for his services. The windows were placed high above the +ground to prevent the Indians from shooting in at the occupants. The +window-glass was carried across the mountains in pack-saddles. The +stairway had twenty-one steps, and on these steps were carved the +heads of thirteen eagles to represent the original thirteen Colonies. +The doors were made of wood, elaborately carved, and were in two +layers, a heavy sheet of iron being placed between these. The old-time +leather hinges are still in use. + +The owner laid out on his property the first race track in Kentucky, +and he called his house Sportsman's Hall. In its walls scores of +settlers found refuge in time of danger. Famous men sat with Mr. and +Mrs. Whitley at their hospitable table, among these being Daniel +Boone, George Rogers Clark, and General Harrison. + +Until his death at the battle of the Thames in 1813 Whitley was one of +the chief defenders of the settlers against the Indians. On his +powder horn he cut the lines: + + William Whitley, I am your horne, + The truth I love, a lie I scorne, + Fill me with the best of powder, + I'll make your rifle crack the louder. + + See how the dread, terrifick ball + Makes Indians blench at Toreys fall, + You with powder I'll supply + For to defend your liberty. + +One day in 1785 a messenger came to Whitley's Fort with the tidings +that Indians had captured a mother and her babe, after killing three +older children. Mr. Whitley was not at home, but Mrs. Whitley sent for +him. In the meantime she collected a company of twenty rescuers. On +his return Whitley placed himself at their head, pursued the Indians, +and rescued the prisoners. + +The title Colonel was given to Whitley in 1794, when he commanded the +Nickerjack expedition against the Tennessee Indians, who had been +conducting foraging expeditions into Kentucky. The march was conducted +with such secrecy and despatch that the enemy were taken by surprise, +and were completely routed. + +The last of his campaigns took place in Canada against the British, +French, and Indians in 1813. Many claim that before he received his +mortal wound in the battle of the Thames, he fired the shot that +killed Tecumseh, the chief who had given so much trouble to the +settlers of Kentucky and Indiana. Others say that the shot was fired +by a Colonel Johnson. + +The body of the Indian fighter rests in an unknown grave hundreds of +miles from the territory he helped to wrest from the Indians, but the +brick house he built near Crab Orchard is still one of the historic +buildings of Kentucky. + + + [Illustration: WHITE HAVEN, ST. LOUIS + _Photo furnished by Albert Wenzlick_ + See page 362] + +LXXXIII + +WHITE HAVEN, NEAR ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI + +WHERE ULYSSES S. GRANT COURTED JULIA DENT + +Immediately after Ulysses Simpson Grant graduated from West Point, he +was sent to Jefferson Barracks, at St. Louis. His military duties were +not so arduous that he was unable to accept the invitation of Fred +Dent, a former roommate at West Point, to go with him to the Dent +homestead on the Gravois Road, four miles from the Barracks. + +The young second lieutenant did not have to be urged to repeat his +visit. In fact he went so often that the road between the Barracks and +the Dent farm became as familiar to him as his old haunts on the banks +of the Hudson. He did not meet Julia Dent at first, for she was absent +at school, but he found enough attraction in a sister to make him a +frequent visitor. + +Then came the eventful day when he met seventeen-year-old Julia. The +courtship was by no means a long-drawn-out affair; the young people +were engaged before Grant was ordered to the Mexican border, though +the fact was not announced until his return to St. Louis in May, 1845. +The marriage took place in August, 1848, after the close of the +Mexican War. + +For some years Mrs. Grant was a soldier's wife. Grant took her with +him to Detroit, but he left her at her old home in St. Louis when he +was transferred to the Pacific Coast. In 1853 he accepted a commission +as captain, which he soon resigned, determining to return to the East. +Several unfortunate speculations had left him without funds, and he +was indebted to a friend in San Francisco for transportation. + +"I rejoined my family to find in it a son whom I had never seen, born +while I was on the Isthmus of Panama," Grant said in his "Personal +Memoirs." "I was now to commence, at the age of thirty-two, a new +struggle for our support. My wife had a farm near St. Louis, to which +we went, but I had no means to stock it. A house had to be built also. +I worked very hard, never losing a day because of bad weather, and +accomplished the object in a moderate way." + +After working as a farm laborer for a time, he built a cabin on sixty +acres given to Mrs. Grant by her father. "Hardscrabble," as he called +the four-room log house, was the home of the Grant family for several +years. This cabin, which was on the grounds of the Louisiana Purchase +Exposition at St. Louis, and White Haven, must both be counted homes +of the family at this period. Fred, Nellie, and Jesse Grant were all +born in White Haven. + +Ready money was scarce, but the father of a growing family felt the +necessity of providing for their wants. "If nothing else could be done +I would load a cord of wood on a wagon and take it to the city for +sale," he wrote in his Memoirs. "I managed to keep along very well +until 1858, when I was attacked by fever and ague. I had suffered very +severely and for a long time from the disease while a boy in Ohio. It +lasted now over a year, and, while it did not keep me in the house, +it did interfere greatly with the amount of work I was able to +perform. In the fall of 1858 I sold out my stock, crops and farming +utensils at auction, and gave up farming." + +The family remained at White Haven for a time, and Grant tried to make +a living in the real estate business. His partner was a cousin of Mrs. +Grant. The income of the business was not sufficient for two families, +so he soon gave up the attempt. "He doesn't seem to be just calculated +for business, but an honester, more generous man never lived," was the +remark of one who knew him at this time. + +In the meantime he had taken his family to St. Louis. He made one +further attempt to support them there. Learning that there was a +vacancy in the office of county engineer, he applied for the position, +but the appointment was to be made by the members of the county court, +and he did not have sufficient influence to secure it. So the move to +Galena, Illinois, in May, 1860, became necessary. There, in the +leather business, he earned but eight hundred dollars a year. And he +had a family of six to feed. + +A year later he responded to the call of President Lincoln, and began +the army service that made him famous. + +White Haven was built in 1808 by Captain John Long, who had won his +title during the Revolution. Later the house and three hundred acres +of the original farm were sold to Frederick Dent, who, at one period, +had ninety slaves in the slave quarters still to be seen at the rear +of the house. + +Through Mrs. Grant the entire property came into the possession of +General Grant. At the time of the failure of Grant & Ward, the farm +was pledged to William H. Vanderbilt, who sold it to Captain Fuller H. +Conn of St. Louis. Captain Conn disposed of it in a number of parcels. +One of these, containing fifteen acres and the old homestead, was +purchased by Albert Wenzlick, who makes his summer home in the house +where Ulysses S. Grant met Julia Dent. + + + + +EIGHT: ALL THE WAY BACK TO NEW ENGLAND + + _In verdurous tumult far away + The prairie billows gleam, + Upon their crests in blessing rests + The noontide's gracious beam. + Low quivering vapors steaming dim + The level splendors break + Where languid lilies deck the rim + Of some land-circled lake._ + + _Far in the east like low-hung clouds + The waving woodlands lie; + Far in the west the glowing plain + Melts warmly in the sky. + No accent wounds the reverent air, + No footprint dints the sod,-- + Lone in the light the prairie lies, + Wrapt in a dream of God._ + + JOHN HAY. + + + + +EIGHT: ALL THE WAY BACK TO NEW ENGLAND + + + [Illustration: ABRAHAM LINCOLN'S HOUSE, SPRINGFIELD, ILL. + _Photo by E. C. Hall_ + See page 369] + +LXXXIV + +THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN HOUSE, SPRINGFIELD, ILLINOIS + +FROM WHICH PRESIDENT-ELECT LINCOLN WENT TO WASHINGTON IN 1861 + +When Abraham Lincoln entered Springfield, in 1837, he did not own a +house; in fact he did not own much of anything. Joshua Speed is quoted +by Ida Tarbell thus: + + "He had ridden into town on a borrowed horse, with no earthly + property save a pair of saddle-bags containing a few + clothes.... Lincoln came into the store with his saddle-bags + on his arm. He said he wanted to buy the furniture for a + single bed. The mattress, blankets, sheets, coverlid, and + pillow ... would cost seventeen dollars. He said that perhaps + was cheap enough; but small as the price was, he was unable + to pay it. But if I would credit him till Christmas, and his + experiment as a lawyer was a success, he would pay then, + saying in the saddest tone, 'If I fail in this I do not know + that I can ever pay you.'" + +The storekeeper thereupon proposed that the young lawyer should share +his own room above the store. Lincoln promptly accepted, went +upstairs, and in a moment was down again. With dry humor he said: +"Well, Speed, I am moved." + +Lincoln longed for better quarters, however, because he wanted to be +married. He watched with interest the new buildings that were going +up, probably reflecting sadly that none of them were for him. In his +discouragement he wrote to Miss Mary Owen of New Salem, to whom he had +said something about coming to live with him in Springfield: + + "You would have to be poor, without the means of hiding your + poverty. Do you believe you could bear that patiently? + Whatever woman may cast her lot with mine, should any ever do + so, it is my intention to do all in my power to make her + happy and contented. And there is nothing I can imagine that + would make me more unhappy than to fail in the effort. I know + I should be much happier with you than the way I am, provided + I saw no sign of discontent in you." + +Miss Owen declined to go to Springfield, because she felt that Lincoln +was "deficient in those little links which make up the chain of a +woman's happiness." + +Five years later, on November 4, 1842, Lincoln married Miss Mary Todd, +a member of a prominent Kentucky family, who had come to Springfield +in 1839 to live with her sister, Mrs. Ninian W. Edwards. The house in +which she spent the three years before her marriage was one of the +handsomest in the town, and was a centre of social gayety. Mr. and +Mrs. Edwards opposed the marriage to the poor and plebeian lawyer; +they urged the folly of exchanging a cultured home for the +surroundings to which Lincoln would take her. But she knew her own +mind, and she went with Lincoln to the home he provided for her. + +The character of the accommodations to which he took his bride is +revealed by a letter written in May, 1843: "We are not keeping house, +but boarding at the Globe Tavern.... Boarding only costs four dollars +a week." + +But the day came when the young statesman was able to open for Mrs. +Lincoln the door of their own modest one-story house. Later a second +story was added under the direction of his wife, most of the work +being done while he was away from home, riding the circuit. + +J. G. Holland's pleasing picture of life in the home during the years +from 1850 to 1860 should be remembered: + + "It was to him a time of rest, of reading, of social + happiness, and of professional prosperity. He was already a + father, and took an almost unbounded delight in his children. + The most that he could say to any rebel in his household was, + 'You break my heart, when you act like this.' A young man + bred in Springfield speaks of a vision that has clung to his + memory very vividly.... His way to school led by the lawyer's + door. On almost any fair summer morning he could find Mr. + Lincoln on the sidewalk in front of his house, drawing a + child backward and forward, in a child's gig. Without hat or + coat, and wearing a pair of rough shoes, his hands behind him + holding on to the tongue of the gig, and his tall form bent + forward to accommodate himself to the service, he paced up + and down the walk forgetful of everything around him. The + young man says he remembers wondering how so rough and plain + a man should live in so respectable a house." + +Once Lincoln was sitting on the porch when three-year-old Willie +escaped from the bathtub, ran out cf the house and the gate, up the +street, and into a field. There his father caught him, and carried +him home on his shoulder. + +The children liked to ride on his shoulder, and they clambered for the +position. If they could not get there, they contented themselves with +hanging to his coat tails. One day a neighbor heard the boys crying, +and asked what was the matter. "Just what's the matter with the whole +world," was Lincoln's reply. "I've got three walnuts, and each wants +two." + +During the last day of the Republican Convention of 1860, which was in +session in Chicago, Lincoln was in the office of the Springfield +_Journal_, receiving word of the progress of events. A messenger came +in and said to him, "The Convention has made a nomination, and Mr. +Seward is--the second man on the list!" After reading the telegram, +and receiving the congratulations of all in the office, Lincoln spoke +of the little woman on Eighth Street who had some interest in the +matter, and said he would go home and tell her the news. + +When the news became generally known, the citizens followed him to the +house on Eighth Street. In the evening, after a meeting in the State +House, the Republicans present marched to the Lincoln home. The +nominee made a speech, and invited as many as could get in to enter +the house. "After the fourth of March we will give you a larger +house," came the laughing response. + +Next day Lincoln was in a quandary. Some of his friends had sent him a +present of wines and other liquors, that he might be able to give what +they thought would be appropriate refreshment to the Committee sent +from Chicago to notify the nominee. Before the formal notification, +Lincoln asked the members what he should do with the wine. J. G. +Holland says that "the chairman at once advised him to return the +gift, and to offer no stimulants to his guests." + +A few years later, when he had closed the house which he was never to +enter again, he said to his friends, who had gathered at the train to +say good-bye: + + "My friends: no one, not in my situation, can appreciate my + feeling of sadness at this parting. To this place, and the + kindness of these people, I owe everything. Here I have lived + a quarter of a century, and have passed from a young to an + old man. Here my children have been born, and one is buried. + I now leave, not knowing when or whether ever I may return, + with a task before me greater than that which rested upon + Washington. Without the assistance of that Divine Being who + ever attended him, I cannot succeed. With that assistance I + cannot fail. Trusting in Him, who can go with me, and remain + with you, and be everywhere for good, let us confidently hope + that all will yet be well. To His care commending you, as I + hope in your prayers you will commend me, I bid you an + affectionate farewell." + +When the body of the martyred President was brought back to +Springfield on May 3, 1865, it was not taken to the old home on Eighth +Street, but to the State Capitol, and from there to Oak Ridge +Cemetery. + +The house is now the property of the State of Illinois, the gift of +Robert T. Lincoln, Abraham Lincoln's son. + + + [Illustration: WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON'S HOUSE, VINCENNES, IND. + _Photo furnished by Frank H. Curtis, Vincennes_ + See page 376] + +LXXXV + +THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE AT VINCENNES, INDIANA + +WHERE "OLD TIPPECANOE" WELCOMED HIS GUESTS + +William Henry Harrison, son of Benjamin Harrison, one of the signers +of the Declaration of Independence, was a ward of Robert Morris. The +great financier opposed the young man's purpose to enlist in the Ohio +campaign against the Indians that followed the war of the Revolution, +but when young Harrison applied directly to Washington he was +appointed ensign and sent to the front. This was in 1791, and the new +ensign was but nineteen years old. + +Gallant conduct during a campaign of four years under General Anthony +Wayne brought to him promotion to a captaincy, the favor of his +general, and the command of Fort Washington, at what is now +Cincinnati, Ohio. + +This post was resigned in 1798, when there seemed no further prospect of +active service. Thereupon Washington appointed the twenty-four-year-old +captain Secretary of the Northwestern Territory and _ex officio_ +Lieutenant Governor. When, in 1800, the Northwestern Territory was +divided, he was nominated by Thomas Jefferson Governor of Indiana +Territory, including what is now Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, +Wisconsin, and Iowa. + +Vincennes, one of the three white settlements in all this vast +territory, became the seat of government. As Fort Sackville Vincennes +had been made famous during the Revolution by the brilliant exploit +of George Rogers Clarke, who took it from the British after an +approach across Illinois and through the flooded valley of the Wabash, +for which he will ever be remembered by a grateful country. + +For thirteen years he was the autocrat in his remote outpost. To him +were committed, in company with the Judge, all legislative powers; he +was commander-in-chief of the militia, and he had the power of +treaty-making with the Indians. His signature became a valid title to +lands in the Indian country. His care of the interests committed to +him was so satisfactory that the legislature of Indiana asked for his +reappointment. He was especially successful in dealing with the +Indians. The victory at Tippecanoe became a rallying cry when, in +1839, he was nominated for the Presidency. + +One of the most notable events of his career as Governor took place +before his house at Vincennes. The Indian warrior Tecumseh, claiming +that lands ceded by other tribes belonged to his own tribe, threatened +vengeance on any who should attempt to settle on these lands. General +Harrison sent for him, promising to give him a careful hearing and +full justice. Accordingly, in August, 1810, Tecumseh came to +Vincennes, accompanied by several hundred warriors. The meeting of the +Governor and the Indians took place in front of the official +residence. At one point in the conference, Tecumseh, being angry, gave +a signal to his warriors, who seized their knives, tomahawks, and war +clubs and sprang to their feet. + +The Governor rose calmly from his armchair, drew his sword, and faced +the savage. His bearing overawed the Indians, and when he told +Tecumseh that he could have no further conference with such a bad +man, the chief and his supporters returned to their camp. + +The house that looked down on this scene was probably the first house +of burned brick built west of the Alleghenies. It was erected in 1804, +at a cost of about twenty thousand dollars. + +The walls of the basement are twenty-four inches thick; the upper +walls are eighteen inches thick. The outer walls are of hard red +brick. The doors, sash, mantels, and stairs are of black walnut, and +are said to have been made in Pittsburgh. + +The basement contains the dining-room, the kitchen, in which hangs the +old-fashioned crane, a storeroom in which the supplies of powder and +arms were kept, and four servants' bedrooms. At one side of the large +cellar is the entrance to a tunnel which led to the banks of the +Wabash, some six hundred feet distant. This was built, so tradition +says, that the Governor and his family, if too closely pressed by +Indians, might escape to the river and continue their flight in +canoes. This would be useful also for the carrying in of water and +food during a siege. + +On the first floor a commodious hallway communicates on the left with +the Council Chamber, where notable visitors were received. This was +also the chamber of early territorial lawmakers. Here, in 1805, by +Rev. Thomas Clelland, was preached the first Presbyterian sermon in +what is now the State of Indiana. + +In the shutter of a room facing the rear is the mark of a bullet +which, it is said, was fired by an Indian who was attempting the life +of the Governor, while that official was walking the floor with his +little son in his arms. + +To-day the house is cut off from the city by railroad tracks and is +surrounded by factories. Until 1916 it was owned by the Vincennes +Water Company, which proposed to raze it to the ground, that they +might have room for extension. Learning of this purpose, six members +of the Francis Vigo Chapter of the Daughters of the American +Revolution begged the City Council to buy the house and preserve it. +When the Council announced that the way was not open to do this, a +number of patriotic women, led by Mrs. Frank W. Curtis, raised the sum +necessary for the purchase of the property. + +Under the direction of the Francis Vigo Chapter, the house has been +restored, and opened for visitors. It is the intention to maintain it +for the inspiration of those who visit Vincennes to look on the scene +of the wise labors of the first Governor of the Indian Territory. + + + [Illustration: RUFUS PUTNAM'S HOUSE, MARIETTA, O. + _Photo furnished by Miss Willia D. Cotton, Marietta_ + See page 377] + +LXXXVI + +THE HOUSE OF GENERAL RUFUS PUTNAM, MARIETTA, OHIO + +THE MAN WHO LED THE FIRST PERMANENT SETTLERS TO OHIO + +In 1775 General Washington decided that he must fortify Dorchester +Heights, Boston, if he was to force the British to leave the country. +But how was he to do this? The ground was frozen to a depth of +eighteen inches, and the enemy's cannon commanded the coveted +position. Lieutenant Colonel Putnam told the General that the +seemingly impossible task could be performed. Washington was dubious, +but he had learned that Colonel Putnam was to be counted on. One +night, after dark, the work was begun, and before daylight it was so +far completed that the surprised enemy were compelled to retire. + +In recognition of services like this, Colonel Putnam was made a +brigadier general. A reward even greater was his; he won the lasting +friendship of Washington. + +Eight years after the fortification of Dorchester Heights, two hundred +and eighty-three officers asked Congress for a grant of land in the +western country. General Putnam forwarded the petition to Washington, +and urged that it be granted, in order that "the country between Lake +Erie and the Ohio might be filled with inhabitants, and the faithful +subjects of the United States so established on the waters of the Ohio +and on the lakes as to banish forever the idea of our western +territory falling under the dominion of any European power." + +Action by Congress was delayed. On June 2, 1784, Washington wrote to +Putnam: + + "I wish it was in my power to give you a more favorable + account of the officers' petition for lands on the Ohio and + its water, than I am about to do.... For surely if justice + and gratitude to the army, and general policy of the Union + were to govern in the case, there would not be the smallest + interruption in granting the request." + +Putnam did not lose heart. His next step, taken in January, 1786, was +to call a meeting of officers and soldiers and others to form an Ohio +Company. The meeting was held at the Bunch of Grapes Tavern, in +Boston, March 1, 1786, and the Ohio Company of Associates was duly +formed. It was agreed to raise a fund to purchase from Congress, for +purposes of settlement, the western lands which Congress had been +asked to give them. + +On July 27, 1787, a tract of 1,500,000 acres on the Ohio River, +between the Scioto and the Muskingum rivers, was sold to the Company +at sixty-six and two-thirds cents per acre. Half the amount was paid +down. When, later, it became impossible to pay the remainder, Congress +gave a measure of relief. + +The first emigrants to go to the new lands set out from Danvers, +Massachusetts, December 1, 1787, under the guidance of General Rufus +Putnam, while a second party started from Hartford, Connecticut, +January 1, 1788. The first party of twenty-two men followed the Indian +trail over the Allegheny Mountains and reached the Youghiogheny River, +on January 23, 1788, while the second party of twenty-eight men, +making better time, joined them on February 14. Then a barge, called +the _Mayflower_, was built, forty-six feet long and twelve feet wide. +A cabin was provided for the women of the party, and an awning was +stretched. The men propelled the boat with ten oars. + +On April 1 the voyage to the Ohio was begun, and on April 7 the party +reached the mouth of the Muskingum. The barge was moored to the bank, +opposite Fort Harmar. Thus came the Massachusetts pioneers to the town +of which Washington wrote later: "No colony in America was ever +settled under such favorable auspices as that which has just commenced +at Muskingum. Information, property, and strength will be its +characteristics. I know many of the settlers personally, and there +never were men better calculated to promote the welfare of such a +community." + +Here the pioneers laid out the town of Marietta among the famous +Indian mounds, naming it in honor of Marie Antoinette of France. The +greatest mound of all was made the central feature of Marie Antoinette +Square. This mound is thirty feet high, while the circular base is 375 +feet in circumference. It is surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide +and five feet deep. Beyond the moat is a parapet twenty feet thick and +385 feet in circumference. This square was leased to General Putnam +for twelve years, on condition that he "surround the whole square with +mulberry trees with an elm at each corner." The base of the mound was +to be encircled with weeping willows, and evergreens were to be placed +on the mound. The parapet was to be surrounded with trees, the square +was to be seeded down to grass, and the whole was to be enclosed with +a post and rail fence. This effort to create a park at the very +beginning was an unusual feature of this pioneer experience. + +An enclosure of logs, with a log fort at each corner, was built for +protection against the Indians. Between the corner forts were the +cabins occupied by the various families. The forts and the enclosure +were named the Campus Martius. One of the early houses built within +this stockade became the home of General Putnam. + +Marie Antoinette Square soon became known as Mound Square. General +Putnam turned over his lease to the town, which set the property aside +as a cemetery. Many of the settlers had died during two epidemics of +smallpox, and there was need of a cemetery nearer the town than the +ground set aside at the beginning. + +It is claimed that more officers of the Revolution have been buried in +the Mound Cemetery than in any other cemetery in the country. There +were twelve colonels, twelve majors, and twenty-two captains among +the Marietta pioneers. When General Lafayette was in Marietta in +1825, the list was read to him, and he said: "I knew them all. I saw +them at Brandywine, Yorktown, and Rhode Island. They were the bravest +of the brave." + +Over Putnam's grave is the following inscription: + + Gen. Rufus Putnam + A Revolutionary Officer + And the leader of the + Colony which made the + First settlement in the + Territory of the Northwest. + Born April 9, 1738 + Died May 4, 1824. + +The house occupied by "the Father of Ohio," as he has been called, is +preserved as a historical monument. In 1917 the Daughters of the +American Revolution and Marietta succeeded in persuading the Ohio +Legislature to pass a bill making provision for its repair and care. + + +LXXXVII + +MONUMENT PLACE, ELM GROVE, WEST VIRGINIA + +THE PLANTATION HOME OF TWO MAKERS OF HISTORY + +At Shepherdstown, the oldest town in what is now West Virginia, Moses +Shepherd was born on November 11, 1763. His grandfather had founded +the town. + +When Moses was about seven years old his father, Colonel Shepherd, +removed his large family to his plantation between Big Wheeling and +Little Creek, which is now included within the limits of Elm Grove. On +the banks of the creek he built Fort Shepherd, that the settlers for +miles around might have a place of refuge from the Indians. Of this +fort Colonel Shepherd was in command till it was destroyed by the +Indians in 1777. The family was hastily removed to Fort Henry, nearer +the present site of Wheeling. There they were hard pressed by the +Indians. Moses, along with other children, assisted in the defence by +moulding bullets and carrying ammunition. + +Word went out to the neighboring strongholds of the endangered +settlers at Fort Henry. Captain John Boggs, then at Catfish Camp (now +Washington, Pennsylvania), hurried to the assistance of Colonel +Shepherd with forty armed men. With him was his daughter, Lydia, who +took her place with Moses and the other young people as an assistant +to the defenders. + +She was there when Molly Scott made her sally from the fort in search +of shot, and she saw the heroine bring it in in her apron. She +witnessed also the attempt of Major Samuel McColloch to enter the fort +at the head of a squad of men which he had brought from Fort Van +Meter, a few miles away. With joy she saw the men enter the gate of +the fort, and her heart was in her mouth when she saw that McColloch, +who was her cousin, was unable to follow because the Indians had +managed to get between him and the gate. At last the gate was closed, +lest the Indians gain entrance, and the gallant Major was left to his +fate. + +The Indians thought they could capture him easily. They hemmed him on +Wheeling Hill, on three sides. On the fourth side was a rocky +precipice almost sheer, covered with growth of trees and bushes. But +the savages were not to have such an easy victory after all, for Major +McColloch urged his horse over the brow of the steep hill, and, to the +astonishment of all, slipped, slid, and fell to the bottom, where the +way across the creek and to safety was comparatively easy. + +The Indians were finally driven away, but not until Moses Shepherd had +made the acquaintance of Lydia Boggs, his companion in service at the +fort. They were married later. In 1798, after the death of Colonel +David Shepherd, Colonel Moses Shepherd took her to the palatial new +home built on the site of the second Fort Shepherd, near the banks of +Wheeling Creek. This house, which was called at first the Shepherd +Mansion or the Stone House, later became known as the Monument Place. + +The story of the third name, which still persists, is interesting. +When, during Jefferson's administration, certain farsighted statesmen +advocated the building of a National Highway which should connect +Washington with Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, Colonel Shepherd became +one of the earnest and influential advocates of the road. He was a +friend of Henry Clay, to whose indefatigable advocacy of the road was +due much of the success of the venture. Clay was frequently a guest of +the Shepherds, and in the stately stone house he talked with them +about the difficulties, progress, and final triumph. + +When the road was an accomplished fact Colonel and Mrs. Shepherd +caused to be built on the lawn a stone monument dedicated to their +friend, in appreciation of his service. The monument, whose +inscriptions have become illegible, is in plain sight from the +Cumberland Road, or, as it came to be called, the National Road, just +before it makes a sharp turn to cross the sturdy stone bridge over +Little Wheeling Creek. Possibly this was one of the bridges Colonel +Shepherd constructed. At any rate he was a contractor for a section of +the road, and several bridges were erected by him. + +Along the Cumberland Road, which was the great highway between the +East and the West, travelled home-seekers outward bound and business +men and politicians to whom Washington beckoned irresistibly. Among +the regular travellers at this and later periods were Andrew Jackson, +William Henry Harrison, General Houston, James K. Polk, and others who +made it a point never to pass the Shepherd Mansion without stopping. +One of the early politicians who frequented the house, attracted there +by Mrs. Shepherd, said: "She had a powerful intellect in her younger +days. Many of our caucuses were held in her drawing-room. She could +keep a secret better than most women, but her love of sarcasm and +intrigue kept her from being very effective." + +Mrs. Shepherd, in fun, had criticisms to offer of some of her +visitors. Once she spoke of Burton, Clay, and Webster as "those young +men, promising, but crude, crude." + +She was accustomed to go every winter with her husband to Washington, +where she would spend a few months during the season. They always +travelled in a coach and four and they lived in great style at the +Capital. There she was sought for her beauty, for her eccentricities, +and her familiarity with private political life. + +Colonel Shepherd died in 1832. In 1833 Mrs. Shepherd married General +Daniel Cruger, a New York Congressman, who spent the last years of +his life in West Virginia. + +After the General's death in 1843 Mrs. Cruger lived at Monument Place, +receiving visitors as of old, and increasing in the eccentricities +that kept any one from being her warm admirer. Always she proved +herself an unusual woman. "If fate had placed her in the compressed +centre of a court, instead of in the inconsequent hurly-burly of a +republic, she would have made for herself a great place in history," +Mrs. Rebecca Harding Davis once wrote of her. + +She was still managing a large plantation during the Civil War, when a +visitor dropped in to see her who has left the following picture of +what she saw: + + "We saw a well-built house of dressed stone, very large and + solid, with the usual detached kitchen and long row of 'negro + quarters.' ... + + "Mrs. Cruger's age was told by the skin of face and hands, + which were like crumpled parchment, but the lips were firm + and the eyes, deep set in wrinkled lids, were still dark and + keen. She was then one hundred years old. + + "We went up to see the ball-room, which was across the whole + front of the house, with many windows and a handsome carved + marble mantel at each end, and deep closets on both sides of + these fire-places. + + "Like Queen Elizabeth, Mrs. Cruger would seem to have kept + all her fine clothes. The whole walls were hung thick with + dresses of silk and satin and velvet pelisses trimmed with + fur; braided riding-habits; mantles of damasked black silk; + band-boxes piled from floor to ceiling full of wonderful + bonnets, some of tremendous size, fine large leghorn straw, + costing from fifty to one hundred dollars; also veils that + would reach to the knee of fine old English lace; gold and + silver ruching; and fine embroidered cashmere turbans, a + perfect museum of fashion from 1800 to 1840." + +To another visitor Mrs. Cruger explained that it had long been her +custom to put aside each year two gowns made in the fashion of that +year. + +In her old age she liked to be alone. Frequently she would send every +one from the house that she might bathe at night. Once her physician +urged her to keep her maid near her. "Why?" she asked; "because I am +afraid? afraid of what? of death? Death will not come to me for twenty +years yet." She was then ninety years old, and she lived to be nearly +one hundred and two. She is buried, by the side of her two husbands, +in Old Stone Church Cemetery on the hill above Elm Grove. A rough +monument carries inscriptions to the memory of the three pioneers +whose lives, as has been pointed out by a local historian, "covered +the Indian War, the Colonial Period, the War of the American +Revolution, the War of 1812, the Mexican War, and the Civil War." + + +LXXXVIII + +THE CASTLE AT FORT NIAGARA, NEW YORK + +THE OLDEST BUILDING IN THE NORTHERN UNITED STATES, WEST OF THE MOHAWK + +"The story of Fort Niagara is peculiarly the story of the fur trade +and the strife for commercial monopoly," Frank H. Severance of the +Buffalo Historical Society said in an address delivered at the fort in +1896; "and it is, too, in considerable measure, the story of our +neighbor, the magnificent colony of Canada.... It is a story replete +with incidents of battle and siege, of Indian cruelty, of patriot +captivity, of white men's duplicity, of famine, disease, and +death,--of all the varied forms of misery and wretchedness of a +frontier post, which we in days of ease are wont to call picturesque +and romantic. It is a story without a dull page, and it is two and a +half centuries long.... I cannot better tell the story ... then to +symbolize Fort Niagara as a beaver skin, held by an Indian, a +Frenchman, an Englishman, and a Dutchman, each of the last three +trying to pull it away from the others (the poor Dutchman early bowled +over in the scuffle), and each European equally eager to placate the +Indian with fine words, with prayers, or with brandy, or to stick a +knife into his white brother's back." + +The story begins in 1669, with the first efforts of the French to +secure possession of the Niagara country. It includes also the romance +of the building of the _Griffon_, the first vessel on the Great Lakes, +and the episode of the early fortification of the late seventeenth +century. But it was not until 1726, the year of the building of the +stone castle near the mouth of the Niagara River, that the fort had +its real beginning. The French felt compelled to build the fort +because the activity of the English was interfering with their own fur +trade with the Indians, and their plan to build Fort Oswego would +increase the difficulty. No time was to be lost; Governor Joncaire +felt that he could not wait for the approval of the authorities at +home. To these latter he sent word that he must build a fortress, and +he asked for an appropriation; to the Indians he declared that he +wished to have a mere trading station. His real purpose was indicated +when he wrote to France that the building "will not have the +appearance of a fort, so that no offence will be given to the +Iroquois, who have been unwilling to allow any there, but it will +answer the purpose of a fort just as well." + +The first step was the construction of two barques for use on Lake +Ontario, to carry stone and timber for the building, and later, to +cruise on the lake and intercept traders bound for Oswego. + +After the construction of the barques had been begun, the consent of +the five Iroquois nations was secured. Longueuil promised them that it +would be to them "a House of Peace" down to the third generation and +farther. To Gaspard Chaussegros de Lery, engineer, was committed the +building of the structure. He determined to make it fireproof. +"Instead of wooden partitions I have built heavy walls, and paved all +the floors with flat stone," he wrote in a report sent to France. The +loft was paved with flat stones "on a floor full of good oak joists, +upon which cannon may be placed above the structure." + +The trade with the Indians at the completed stone house on the Niagara +increased. So did the activities of the English. Governor Burnet of +New York craftily persuaded the Onondaga Indians that their interests +had been endangered by the building of the French fort, since it +penned them up from their chief hunting-place, and was therefore +contrary to the Treaty of Utrecht; they agreed with him that the +Iroquois had no right to the territory, which was really the property +of the Senecas, and they asked the Governor to appeal to King George +to protect them in their right. + +Therefore the suggestion was made that they "submit and give up all +their hunting country to the King," and sign a deed for it. +Accordingly Seneca, Cayuga, and Onondaga sachems deeded to the English +a sixty-mile strip along the south shore of Lake Ontario, which +included the Niagara frontier, the Niagara River being the western +boundary. + +"From this time on the 'stone house' was on British soil; but it was +yet to take the new owner a generation to dispossess the obnoxious +tenant," Frank H. Severance writes in "An Old Frontier of France." + +The story of the next thirty years is a story of plots and +counter-plots, of expeditions threatened and actual, of disappointing +campaigns, of imprisonment and cruelty and death. More than once +Indians promised the English that the house at Niagara should be +razed. Spies reported that the defences at the castle were in bad +shape; "'tis certain that, should the English once attack it, 'tis +theirs," one report ran. "I am informed that the fort is so +dilapidated that 'tis impossible to put a pin in it without causing it +to crumble; stanchions have been obliged to be set up against it to +support it." Another report disclosed that if the cannon were fired +the walls would crumble. + +But the French were not ready to give up. They felt that Fort Niagara +was the key to the Ohio Valley, which they wished to control. They +strengthened the defences of the fort. The defeat of Braddock at Fort +Du Quesne and the strange decision of General Shirley to stop at +Oswego instead of continuing with his force to Niagara, gave the +French a new lease of life. + +In 1759 came the end of French rule. General Prideaux's expedition +from New York began the siege of the fort early in July, and after +several weeks it capitulated. Until 1796 the English flag floated +above the "castle." The commander of this post, like the commanders of +six other forts, refused on various pretexts to surrender to America, +in spite of the terms of the treaty of 1783. Attempts were made to +secure possession, but none of them were successful, and it was not +until 1794 that Great Britain agreed to evacuate Niagara and the other +forts still held, "on or before the 1st of June, 1796." + +Seventeen years later, in 1813, the British flag again replaced the +Stars and Stripes over the historic building, but the fort was +restored to the United States in 1815. Since that time it has been a +part of the army post that has been more important because of its +history than for any other reason. + +The Daughters of the War of 1812 have placed a suitable tablet on the +Old Castle, and are interested in the proposition that has been made +to turn the venerable edifice into an international museum, which +shall commemorate the one hundred years of peace between Great Britain +and America. + +In 1917 the eyes of the nation were once more turned on the fort by +Lake Ontario, for it was made a training ground for officers who were +to be sent to the battle front in France and Belgium. The castle, +nearly two hundred years old, and strong as ever, again witnessed the +gathering of patriots, and the spot that had echoed to the tread of +French who had yielded to the English, of English who had driven out +the French, and of Americans who had driven out the English, became +the parade ground of Americans who were making ready to stand side by +side with French and English for the freedom of the world. + + + [Illustration: THE SCHUYLER MANSION, ALBANY, N. Y. + _Photo furnished by Hon. Martin H. Glynn, Albany_ + See page 391] + +LXXXIX + +THE SCHUYLER MANSION, ALBANY, NEW YORK + +THE RALLYING PLACE OF THE CONSTITUTIONALISTS + +When Catherine Van Rensselaer married Philip Schuyler, on September +17, 1755, he was a soldier who had been engaged in the campaign +against the French at Crown Point. She was glad when he resigned, in +1756, but he returned to army life in 1758 and at intervals for more +than twenty years he continued his military service. Two days after +the Battle of Bunker Hill Congress made him a major-general. During +his three years in the army of the Colonies, he was the subject of +continual abuse on the part of those who felt that he had conducted +carelessly his expedition to Canada and the campaign against Burgoyne. +He was able to stand up against the public clamor because Washington +had confidence in him and because he was twice given a clean bill of +health by a court of inquiry. + +During this season of misunderstanding he was sustained by his wife, +who was a remarkable assistant both in his home and in public affairs. +During the years when he was frequently incapacitated by gout she +carried on much of his work for him, and so enabled him to maintain +his place in the councils of the nation. + +It was in 1760 that Mrs. Schuyler first showed her great executive +ability. While her husband was absent in England, where he had been +sent by General Bradstreet, she superintended the erection of a new +house, a spacious mansion of yellow brick that is to-day as staunch +as when it was built. + +From the beginning the Schuyler mansion, the home of the first citizen +of Albany, was noted because of the boundless hospitality of its +mistress. All were welcomed who sought its doors. One notable company +was made up of nine Catawba warriors from South Carolina, who were on +their way to ratify a covenant with the Six Nations at the close of +the Cherokee War. They were met at the wharf by Major Schuyler and +taken directly to the house. + +Among the visitors to Albany in 1776 were three Commissioners +appointed by Congress to visit the Army of the North, one of whom, +Benjamin Franklin, was so wearied by the journey from Philadelphia +that he was sincerely grateful for Mrs. Schuyler's care. One of the +Commissioners said later of General Schuyler, "He lives in pretty +style, and has two daughters, Betsey and Peggy, lively, agreeable +gals." He was delighted to learn that the motto of Philip Schuyler and +his household was, "As for me and my house, we will serve our +country." + +Another of the fortunate men who were privileged to be in the house +for a season was Tench Tilghman, an aide-de-camp of General +Washington. He wrote in his journal of "Miss Ann Schuyler, a very +Pretty Young Lady. A brunette with dark eyes, and a countenance +animated and sparkling, as I am told she is." Later he met "Miss +Betsey, the General's 2nd Daughter." "I was prepossessed in favor of +the Young Lady the moment I saw her," he said. "A Brunette with the +most good natured dark lovely eyes I ever saw, which threw a beam of +good temper and Benevolence over her entire countenance. Mr. +Livingstone informed me that I was not mistaken in my Conjecture for +she was the finest tempered Girl in the World." + +Tench Tilghman was to renew the acquaintance in 1779, when Betsey and +her parents spent a few months in Morristown, New Jersey. Alexander +Hamilton also was there, and he secured Betsey's promise to be his +bride. + +The marriage took place at the Albany homestead on December 14, 1780. +A few months later the young husband, having resigned from the army, +was studying law in Albany and was a welcome addition to the Schuyler +household. + +Two years after the wedding came one of the incidents that has made +the mansion famous. Because of the General's influence with the Indian +allies of the British, a number of attempts were made to capture him; +the British wished to put him where he could not interfere with their +plans. One summer day, when Mrs. Carter, Mrs. Hamilton's sister +Margaret, was in the house with her baby Philip, a party of Tories, +Canadians, and Indians surrounded the house and forced an entrance. +Mary Gay Humphreys, in "Catherine Schuyler," tells what followed: + + "The house was guarded by six men. Their guns were in the + hall, the guards being outside and the relief asleep. Lest + the small Philip be tempted to play with the guns his mother + had them removed. The alarm was given by a servant. The + guards rushed for their guns, but they were gone. The family + fled upstairs, but Margaret, remembering the baby in the + cradle below, ran back, seized the baby, and when she was + halfway up the flight, an Indian flung his tomahawk at her + head, which, missing her, buried itself in the wood, and + left its historic mark to the present time." + +After the attack on the mansion Washington wrote to General Schuyler, +begging him to strengthen his guard. The following year the +Commander-in-chief was a guest at the mansion, while in 1784 he spent +the night there, after an evening consultation with Schuyler, while +Mrs. Washington visited with her friend Mrs. Schuyler. + +Lafayette, Count de Rochambeau, Baron Steuben, Charles Carroll of +Carrollton, John Jay, and Aaron Burr had a taste of the delights of +life at the mansion. The latter was destined to defeat General +Schuyler for reelection to the Senate, as he was to be in turn +defeated by the General. The British General Burgoyne and his staff +also were entertained in the mansion, after General Schuyler's victory +at Saratoga, and this in spite of the fact that much of the General's +property had been destroyed by Burgoyne's order. + +For many years the house was famous as the meeting place of the +friends of the young nation. Frequent conferences were held in the +library on the proposed constitution. It is said that many sections of +the document were written there by Hamilton, and the steps of the +campaign for the ratification of the document were outlined within the +historic walls. When, at last, the victory was complete, General +Schuyler and Alexander Hamilton walked at the head of the gay +procession that hailed the news with joy. The whole town was +illuminated, but the most brilliantly lighted building was the old +mansion. + +During the years that followed General Schuyler's health failed +gradually, and he became more than ever dependent on his wife. When +she died, in 1803, he did not know what to do without her. To +Hamilton he wrote: + + "My trial has been severe. I shall attempt to sustain it with + fortitude. I hope I have succeeded in a degree, but after + giving and receiving for nearly a half a century, a series of + mutual evidences of affection and friendship which increased + as we advanced in life, the shock was great and sensibly + felt, to be thus suddenly deprived of a beloved wife, the + Mother of my children, and the soothing companion of my + declining years. But I kiss the rod with humility. The Being + that inflicted the stroke will enable me to sustain the + smart, and progressively restore peace to my wounded heart, + and will make you and Eliza and my other children the + instruments of my Consolation...." + +General Schuyler died in November, 1804, four months after the duel +with Burr in which Hamilton was slain. + +The mansion in which he spent so many happy years was long an orphan +asylum, but in 1911 it was purchased by the State. On October 17, +1917, it was dedicated as a State Monument. + + + [Illustration: WENTWORTH HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, N. H. + _Photo by Halliday Historic Photograph Company_ + See page 395] + +XC + +THE WENTWORTH HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE + +THE SCENE OF THE ROMANCE OF LADY WENTWORTH + +When, in 1750, Governor Benning Wentworth began to rebuild for his +mansion at Little Harbor, two miles from the business centre of +Portsmouth a farm-house which dated from the latter part of the +sixteenth century, he thought more of comfort than of architecture. +Evidently those who later added to the house thought as little of +architecture as the original builder; the product became such a +strange conglomeration of wings and "L's" that it is difficult to see +which is the original portion. Once the house contained fifty-two +rooms, but a portion has been torn away, and the structure as it +stands is not quite so spacious, though still large enough for a +hotel. Even the cellar is tremendous, for Governor Wentworth provided +there a place for his horses, to be used in time of danger. Thirty +animals could be accommodated there. + +Many of the rooms are small, but some are of impressive size, notably +the Council Chamber, where meetings that helped to make history were +held, and the billiard room, where the owner and his associates were +accustomed to go when the strain of business became too great. + +Longfellow thus describes the house: + + "It was a pleasant mansion, an abode + Near and yet hidden from the great high-road, + Sequestered among trees, a noble pile, + Baronial and colonial in its style; + Gables and dormer-windows everywhere, + And stacks of chimneys rising high in air-- + Pandaean pipes, on which all winds that blew + Made mournful music the whole winter through. + Within, unwonted splendors met the eye, + Panels, and floors of oak, and tapestry; + Carved chimney-pieces, where on brazen dogs + Revelled and roared the Christmas fire of logs; + Doors opening into darkness unawares, + Mysterious passages, and flights of stairs, + And on the walls, in heavy gilded frames, + The ancestral Wentworths with Old-Scripture names." + +While Governor Wentworth was an important figure during the days +preceding the Revolution, the mansion is celebrated not so much +because of his political service as because of the romance of his +second marriage. + +Martha Hilton, the heroine of the romance, was "a careless, laughing, +bare-footed girl." One day a neighbor saw her, in a short dress, +carrying a pail of water in the street. "You, Pat! You, Pat! Why do +you go looking so? You should be ashamed to be seen in the street!" +was the shocked comment. But the answer was not what the neighbor +expected. "No matter how I look, I shall ride in my chariot yet, +Marm." + +The story of what followed is told by Charles W. Brewster, a historian +of old Portsmouth: + + "Martha Hilton afterwards left home, and went to live in the + Governor's mansion at Little Harbor, doing the work of the + kitchen, and keeping the house in order, much to the + Governor's satisfaction.... The Governor has invited a dinner + party, and with many other guests, in his cocked hat comes + the beloved Rev. Arthur Brown, of the Episcopal church. The + dinner is served up in a style becoming the Governor's + table.... There is a whisper from the Governor to a + messenger, and at his summons Martha Hilton comes in from + that door on the west of the parlor, and, with blushing + countenance, stands in front of the fireplace. She seems + heedless of the fire--she does not appear to have brought + anything in, nor does she seem to be looking for anything to + carry out--there she stands! a damsel of twenty summers--for + what, no visitor can tell. + + "The Governor, bleached by the frosts of sixty winters, + rises. 'Mr. Brown, I wish you to marry me.' 'To whom?' asks + his pastor, in wondering surprise. 'To this lady,' was the + reply. The rector stood confounded. The Governor became + imperative. 'As the Governor of New Hampshire I command you + to marry me!' The ceremony was then duly performed, and from + that time Martha Hilton became Lady Wentworth." + +Longfellow's record of the incident is given in the poem, "Lady +Wentworth": + + "The years came and ... the years went, seven in all, + And all these years had Martha Hilton served + In the Great House, not wholly unobserved: + By day, by night, the silver crescent grew, + Though hidden by clouds, the light still shining through; + A maid of all work, whether coarse or fine, + A servant who made service seem divine! + Through her each room was fair to look upon; + The mirrors glistened, and the brasses shone, + The very knocker at the outer door, + If she but passed, was brighter than before." + +Then came the strange marriage scene: + + "Can this be Martha Hilton? It must be! + Yes, Martha Hilton, and no other she! + Dowered with the beauty of her twenty years, + How ladylike, how queenlike she appears; + The pale, thin crescent of the days gone by + Is Dian now in all her majesty! + Yet scarce a guest perceived that she was there + Until the Governor, rising from his chair, + Played slightly with his ruffles, then looked down + And said unto the Reverend Arthur Brown: + 'This is my birthday: it shall likewise be + My wedding-day, and you shall marry me!'" + +Governor Wentworth died in 1770, three years after the coming to +America of Michael Wentworth, a retired colonel in the British Army. +Mrs. Wentworth married him, and he became the second lord of the +mansion. During his residence there Washington was welcomed to the +house, one day in 1789. + +Martha Wentworth, the only daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Michael Wentworth, +married Sir John Wentworth, an Englishman, and they lived in the old +house until 1816, when the property passed to a family of another +name. + + [Illustration: WARNER HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH, N. H. + _Photo by Frank Cousins Art Company_ + See page 395] + +There are a number of houses in Portsmouth which tell of the ancient +glories of different branches of the Wentworth family. Perhaps the +most famous is the Warner house, which was begun in 1718 by Captain +Archibald Macpheadris, and was finished in 1723, at a cost of L6,000. +Mrs. Macpheadris was Sarah Wentworth, one of the sixteen children of +Lieutenant Governor John Wentworth, and sister of Governor Benning +Wentworth. Their daughter, Mary, married Hon. Jonathan Warner, who was +the next occupant of the house. The property is known by his name, +rather than that of the builder--perhaps because it is so much easier +to pronounce! The house is now occupied by Miss Eva Sherburne, a +descendant of the original owner. + +The Warner house has a lightning rod, which was put up in 1762, under +the personal supervision of Benjamin Franklin. It is said that this +was the first lightning rod erected in New Hampshire. + + + [Illustration: _Photo Copyright by Detroit Photographic Company_ + WADSWORTH-LONGFELLOW HOUSE, PORTLAND, ME. + See page 400] + +XCI + +THE WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW HOUSE, PORTLAND, MAINE + +WHERE HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW SPENT HIS BOYHOOD + + _The old house by the linden + Stood silent in the shade, + And on the gravelled pathway + The light and shadow played._ + + _I saw the nursery windows + Wide open to the air; + But the faces of the children, + They were no longer there._ + + _The large Newfoundland house-dog + Was standing by the door; + He looked for his little playmates + Who would return no more._ + + _They walked not under the linden, + They played not in the hall; + But shadow and silence, and sadness + Were hanging over all._ + + _The birds sang in the branches, + With sweet familiar tone; + But the voices of the children + Will be heard in dreams alone!_ + + _And the boy that walked beside me, + He could not understand + Why close in mine, ah! closer, + I pressed his little hand!_ + +When Henry Wadsworth Longfellow wrote these lines perhaps he was +thinking of the home of his boyhood in Portland, which his +grandfather, General Peleg Wadsworth, built in 1785. + +The house was the wonder of the town, for it was the first brick +building erected there. The brick had been brought from Virginia. +Originally there were but two stories; the third story was added when +the future poet was eight years old. + +Longfellow was born in the house at the corner of Fourth and Hancock +streets, but he was only eight months old when he was carried within +the inviting front doors of the Wadsworth house, and the mansion was +home to him for at least thirty-five years. + +He was only five years old when he declared that he wanted to be a +soldier and fight for his country. The War of 1812 was then in +progress. His aunt wrote one day, "Our little Henry is ready to march; +he had his gun prepared and his head powdered a week ago." + +But, agreeing with his parents that school was a better place for him +than the army, he began his studies when he was five years old. A year +later his teacher gave him a certificate which read: + + "Master Henry Longfellow is one of the best boys we have in + school. He spells and reads very well. He also can add and + multiply numbers. His conduct last quarter was very correct + and amiable." + +Life in the Longfellow home was delightful. Samuel Longfellow, the +poet's brother, has given a pleasing picture: + + "In the evenings the children gathered with their books and + slates round the table in the family sitting room. The + silence would be broken for a minute by the long, mysterious + blast of a horn announcing the arrival in town of the evening + mail, then the rattle of its passing wheels, then silence + again, save the singing of the wood fire. Studies over, there + would be games till bedtime. If these became too noisy, or + the father had brought home his law papers from the office, + enjoining strictest quiet, then there was flight to another + room--perhaps, in winter, to the kitchen, where hung the + crane over the coals in the broad old fireplace, upon whose + iron back a fish forever baked in effigy. + + "When bedtime came, it was hard to leave the warm fire to go + up into the unwarmed bedrooms; still harder next morning to + get up out of the comfortable feather beds and break the ice + in the pitchers for washing. But hardship made hardihood. In + summer it was pleasant enough to look out from the upper + windows; those of the boys' room looked out over the Cove and + the farms and woodlands toward Mount Washington, full in view + on the western horizon; while the eastern chambers commanded + a then unobstructed view of the bay, White Head, Port + Prebble, and the lighthouse on Cape Elizabeth." + +One day in 1820, when the family was gathered about the fire, Henry +was on tiptoe with eager excitement. He had written a poem and had +sent it to The Portland _Gazette_. Would it be in the paper which his +father had in his hand as he seated himself before the fire? +Robertson, in his life of the poet, has described those anxious +moments: + + "How carefully his father unfolded the damp sheet, and how + carefully he dried it at the fire ere beginning to read it! + And how much foreign news there seemed to be in it! At last + Henry and a sympathetic sister who shared his secret, + obtained a peep over their parent's shoulder--and the poem + was there!" + +There are sixteen rooms in the old house. In Henry's day these rooms +were heated by eight fireplaces, which consumed thirty cords of wood +during the long winter. On the first floor are the great living-room, +the kitchen with its old fireplace, and the den, once the dining-room. +On the desk still shown in this room Longfellow wrote, in 1841, "The +Rainy Day," whose opening lines are: + + "The day is cold, and dark, and dreary, + It rains, and the wind is never weary; + The vine still clings to the mouldering wall, + But at every gust the dead leaves fall, + And the day is dark and dreary." + +Into the ground floor rooms have been gathered many relics of the days +when the poet was a boy. The four rooms of the second floor are also +full of mementoes. But the most interesting part of the house is the +third story, where there are seven rooms. To this floor the four +children made their way on summer nights when the long hours of +daylight invited them to stay up longer, and on winter evenings, when +the fire downstairs seemed far more inviting than the cold floors and +the colder sheets. + +One of these rooms is pointed out as the poet's chamber. Here he wrote +many of his earlier poems. Among these was "The Lighthouse." In this +he described sights in which he delighted, sights the lighthouse daily +witnessed: + + "And the great ships sail outward and return + Bending and bowing o'er the billowing swell, + And ever joyful as they see it burn, + They wave their silent welcome and farewell. + + "'Sail on,' it says, 'sail on, ye stately ships! + And with your floating bridge the ocean span; + Be mine to guard the light from all eclipse, + Be yours to bring man nearer unto man.'" + +During the years after 1843, when Longfellow bought the Craigie House +at Cambridge, his thoughts turned back with longing to the old home +and the old town, and he wrote: + + "Often I think of the beautiful town + That is seated by the sea; + Often in thought go up and down + The pleasant streets of the dear old town, + And my youth comes back to me." + +For nineteen years after the poet's death his sister Ann, Mrs. Pierce, +lived in the old home. When she died, in 1901, she deeded it to the +Maine Historical Society, that the place might be made a permanent +memorial of the life of The Children's Poet. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + + + Adams, Life of. By John Quincy Adams and Charles Francis + Adams. J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia. + + Biographies of the Signers of the Declaration of + Independence. By John Sanderson and Robert Waln, Jr. R. W. + Pomeroy, Philadelphia, 1827. + + Breck, Samuel, Recollections of. Edited by Horace E. Scudder. + Porter & Coates, Philadelphia. + + Carroll, Charles, of Carrollton, Life of. By Kate Mason + Rowland. George P. Putnam's Sons, New York. + + Chaplains and Clergy of the Revolution. By J. T. Headley. + Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1864. + + Chief Justices, Life and Times of the. By Flanders. J. B. + Lippincott Company, Philadelphia. + + Clay, Henry. By Thomas Hart Clay. George W. 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By Daniel Munro Wilson. + Houghton, Mifflin Company, Boston. + + Williamsburg, the Old Colonial Capital. By Lyman Gordon + Tyler. Whittet & Shepperson, Richmond. + + Worthy Women of the Last Century. By Mrs. O. J. Wister and + Miss Agnes Irwin. J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia. + + + + +INDEX + + + Abraham Lincoln House, Springfield, Illinois, 369 + + Acrostic, 23 + + Adams House, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 44 + + Adams, Abigail, 20, 48, 230 + + Adams, John, 20, 24, 25, 44, 45, 47, 52, 150, 160, 226, 230, 305, + 329 + + Adams, John Quincy, 45, 47, 48, 232 + + Adams, Samuel, 20, 26, 27 + + Alamo, the, San Antonio, Texas, 347 + + Alamo, battle of the, 348 + + Alcott, Bronson, 64 + + American Revolution, Daughters of the, 125, 377, 381 + + _American Standard_, Richmond, Virginia, 295 + + Amesbury, Massachusetts, 56 + + Amstel House, New Castle, Delaware, 205 + + Andros, Governor, 19, 34, 35 + + Annapolis, Maryland, 226 + + Arlington, Virginia, 246 + + Asbury, Bishop Francis, 244 + + Ashland, Lexington, Kentucky, 355 + + Aubrey, William, 148 + + Audubon, John James, 187 + + + Bakewell, Mary, 190 + + Bell, Mary, mother of George Washington, 251 + + Bells of St. Philip's, romance of the, 334 + + Bennet-Boardman House, Saugus, Massachusetts, 69 + + Bennet, Samuel, 70 + + Berrian, John, 137 + + Biglow Papers, 38 + + Bill of Rights, Virginia's, 284 + + "Birds of America," Audubon's preparation for, 190 + + Blair, Rev. James, 289, 291 + + Boardman, Abijah, 71 + + Boone, Daniel, 360 + + Boonesborough, Kentucky, 360 + + Boston, Brattle Street meeting, 29 + fire of 1761, 30 + _Gazette_, 30 + Massacre, 19, 31 + _News Letter_, 28 + North Church, 27 + North Square, 28 + Old South Church, 31 + Port Bill, 25, 73, 271 + Tea Party, 24, 31, 34, 37, 68, 73 + + Boudinot, Elias, 43, 120 + + Braddock, General, 115, 253 + + Braintree, Massachusetts, 46 + + Brandon, Virginia, 281 + + Breck, Samuel, 183 + + Brewton, Miles, 336 + + Brick Capitol, the, 228 + + British at Monticello, 324 + + Broadhearth, Saugus, Massachusetts, 69 + + Broadstreet, Simon, 69 + + Brown, Richard, 82 + + Brown University, 83 + + Bruton Parish, Virginia, 288 + + Budden, Captain, 165 + + Bunker Hill, 26, 68 + + Burgoyne, General, 34, 179, 391 + + Burlington, New Jersey, 226 + + Burr, Aaron, 90, 131, 394 + + Byrd, Evelyn, 279 + + + Cabildo, New Orleans, Louisiana, 343 + + Cabot, Arthur, 37 + + Caldwell, New Jersey, church at, 119 + + Caldwell, Rev. James, 119 + + Cambridge, Massachusetts, 36, 73 + + Campfield House, Morristown, New Jersey, 126 + + Canonicus, 81 + + Capitol at Washington, 225 + + Carleton, Sir Guy, 108, 110 + + Carpenters' Company of the City and County of Philadelphia, 149 + + Carpenters' Hall, Philadelphia, 149 + + Carroll, Charles, 216 + + Carter, Elizabeth Hill, 279 + + Carter, Landon, 278 + + Carter's Grove, Virginia, 280 + + Cartwright, Peter, 352 + + Castle at Fort Niagara, New York, 386 + + Chaplains: James Caldwell, 139 + George Duffield, 160 + + Charles River, 27 + + Charleston, Massachusetts, 27 + + Chastellux, Marquis de, 107, 279, 324 + + Chew, Benjamin, Jr., 159 + + Chew, Joseph, 93 + + Chew, Samuel, 156 + + Christ Church, Alexandria, Virginia, 249 + + Christ Church, Philadelphia, 153, 199 + + Christmas, the first, at Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, 197 + + Church furnishings, primitive, 95, 121 + + Churches: Old North, Boston, 27, 32; + Old South, Boston, 20, 24, 32; + King's Chapel, Boston, 32; + West, Boston, 37 + Old South, Newburyport, Massachusetts, 75 + First Baptist, Providence, Rhode Island, 80 + St. Paul's Chapel, New York, 95 + St. Martins-in-the-Fields, London, 95 + Trinity Church, New York, 96 + Caldwell, New Jersey, 119 + Old Tennent, Freehold, New Jersey, 122 + Springfield Meeting House, New Jersey, 138 + St. Peter's, Philadelphia, 153 + Christ Church Philadelphia, 153 + Old Pine Street, Philadelphia, 159 + Norriton Presbyterian, 172 + Moravian at Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, 196 + Emmanuel, New Castle, Delaware, 204 + Presbyterian, New Castle, Delaware, 205 + Rehoboth, Delaware, 211 + Christ Church, Alexandria, Virginia, 277, 294 + Pohick, Virginia, 249, 311 + St. John's, Richmond, 264 + Bruton Parish, Virginia, 288 + Monumental, Richmond, Virginia, 277, 294 + Pohick Church, Virginia, 311 + St. Luke's, Smithfield, Virginia, 318 + St. Peter's, New Kent County, Virginia, 318 + St. Michael's, Charleston, S. C., 333 + Huguenot, Charleston, South Carolina, 333 + St. Philip's, Charleston, South Carolina, 333, 340 + Independent, Savannah, Georgia, 340 + Old Stone Church, Elm Grove, West Virginia, 386 + + Clark, George Rogers, 360 + + Clay, Henry, 308, 355, 383 + + _Clermont_, the, 234 + + Cleveland, Stephen Grover, 122 + + Clinton, General George, 107 + + Clinton, Sir Henry, 337 + + Cliveden, Germantown, Philadelphia, 156 + + Clock on Independence Hall, Philadelphia, 166 + + Coddington, William, 49 + + College of New Jersey, 130, 297 + + College Customs at Nassau Hall, 130 + + Collins, Varnum Lansing, 130 + + Colonial Dames of Massachusetts, 53 + + Concord, Massachusetts, 26, 27 + + Congress at Princeton, New Jersey, 133 + + Constitutional Convention of 1787, 168 + + Continental Congress, 83, 93, 150 + + Conway Cabal, 182 + + Cordale, Thomas, 213 + + Cornwallis, Lord, 134, 293 + + Council of Safety, Philadelphia, 172, 193 + + Courtship of Alexander Hamilton and Elizabeth Schuyler, 128 + + Crab Orchard, Kentucky, 360 + + Craigie, Andrew, 41 + + Craigie House, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 40, 403 + + Crockett, David, 350 + + Crown Point, 23 + + Cumberland Road, 384 + + Cunningham, Ann Pamela, 245 + + Curtis, George William, 64 + + Custis, George Washington Parke, 246, 255 + + Custis, Nelly, 219 + + + _Daily Advertiser_, New York, 87 + + _Daily American Advertiser_, Philadelphia, 196 + + _Dartmouth_, ship, 24 + + Daughters of the American Revolution, 90, 377, 381 + + Daughters of the War of 1812, 390 + + Decatur, Stephen, 154 + + Declaration of Independence, 37, 48, 132, 167, 216, 325 + + Dent, Fred, 362 + + Desecration of Carpenters' Hall, 152 + + Desecration of the Capitol, 229 + + Dexter, Thomas, 69 + + Diaries: + of John Tudor, 19 + of Albigence Waldo, 182 + of George Washington, 21, 89, 218, 313 + of John Adams, 45 + of Robert Breck, 184 + of Tench Tilghman, 392 + + Dix, Dr. Morgan, 96 + + Dorchester Heights, Massachusetts, 68 + + Doughoregan Manor, Maryland, 216 + + Dowry of pine-tree shillings, 50 + + Duche, Rev. Jacob, 150, 154 + + Duffield, Rev. George, 160 + + Dunlap, William, 137 + + Du Ponceau, Peter S., 176 + + Duston Garrison House, Haverhill, Massachusetts, 56 + + Duston, Hannah, 56 + + Duston, Thomas, 56 + + + East India Company, 31 + + Eden, Governor Robert, 221 + + Edwards, Jonathan, 75 + + Elizabeth Town, New Jersey, 120, 139 + + Elmwood, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 36 + + Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 33 + + Emlen House, Pennsylvania, 178 + + Emmanuel Church, Newcastle, Delaware, 204 + + Everett, Edward, 41 + + Expenses in raising the Tower of the State House, Philadelphia, + 164 + + + Fairmount Park, Philadelphia, 148 + + Faneuil, Andrew, 28 + + Faneuil, Peter, 28, 35 + + Faneuil Hall, Boston, 20, 28, 30, 31, 34 + + Fatlands, near Philadelphia, 187 + + Federal District, location of the, 226 + + Fernside Farm, Haverhill, Massachusetts, 54 + + First Baptist Church, Providence, Rhode Island, 80 + + Fitch, John, 234 + + Flag, American, 89 + + Flag, first American in British waters, 78 + + Flint, Ruth, 54 + + Flynt, Tutor, 51 + + Ford Mansion, Morristown, New Jersey, 126 + + Forks of the Delaware, 196 + + Fort Washington, New York City, 89 + + Fort William and Mary, 26 + + Fox, George, 212 + + Franklin, Benjamin, 34, 52, 97, 115, 172, 235, 392, 399 + + Fraunces, Samuel, 98 + + Fraunces' Tavern, New York, 97 + + Freeman, Rev. James, 36 + + "From Greenland's Icy Mountains," 342 + + + Gage, General, 37, 43 + + Gano, Rev. Stephen, 83 + + Garrison, William Lloyd, 22, 55 + + _Gazette_, Boston, 30 + + _Gazette_, Essex, 25 + + _Gazette_, New York, 95, 99 + + _Gazette of the United States_, 256 + + _Gazette_, Portland, Maine, 402 + + _Gazette_, Williamsburg, Virginia, 262 + + Germantown, battle of, 157, 180 + + Germantown, Pennsylvania, 226 + + Gerry, Elbridge, 37, 73 + + Girard College, Philadelphia, 229 + + Glover, Colonel, 42 + + Grant, Ulysses S., 362 + + Green, General, 42 + + Greenway, Virginia, 257 + + _Griffon_, building of the, 387 + + Gunston Hall, Virginia, 281 + + + Hale, Edward Everett, 37 + + Hallet, Stephen L., 226 + + Hamilton, Alexander, 100, 127, 393 + + Hamilton, Allan MacLane, 101 + + Hancock, John, 20, 24, 26, 27, 34, 45, 52, 53 + + Hanover Court House, Virginia, 262 + + "Hardscrabble," St. Louis, Missouri, 363 + + Harlem Heights, battle of, 88 + + Harmar, Fort, 379 + + Harrison, Benjamin, 263, 281 + + Harrison Mansion, the, Vincennes, Indiana, 374 + + Harrison, William Henry, 360, 374 + + Harte, Bret, 140 + + Harvard College, 38 + + Hasbrouck, Jonathan, 107 + + Haverhill Historical Society, 60 + + Haverhill, Massachusetts, 56 + + Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 40, 61 + + Hay, Henry Hanby, 205 + + Headquarters: Washington's at Roger Morris House, New York, 88 + Washington's at Richmond Hill, New York, 99 + Washington's at Van Cortlandt House, New York, 105 + Washington's at Newburgh, New York, 107. + Washington's at Morristown, New Jersey, 126 + Washington's at Rocky Hill, New Jersey, 134 + Washington's at Rocky Hill, New Jersey, 137 + Washington's at Valley Forge, 174 + Washington's at Pennypacker's Mills, Dawesfield, and Emlen + House, 178 + + Heijt, Hans Joest, 178 + + Henricopolis, Virginia, 266 + + Henry, Patrick, 264, 266, 268, 271, 283, 285, 290, 305, 309, 314 + + Henry, William, 179 + + _Herald_, the San Antonio, Texas, 348 + + Hermitage, The, Nashville, Tennessee, 351 + + Hoban, James, architect of White House, 227, 230 + + Hodgson, Adam, 219. + + Hollyman, Ezekiel, 81 + + Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 52, 53 + + Honor System, the, in William and Mary College, 294 + + Hospitality: at Montpelier, Virginia, 299 + at Oak Hill, Virginia, 303 + at Red Hill, Virginia, 306 + at Mount Airy, Virginia, 315 + at Monticello, 325 + at The Hermitage, 353 + at Ashland, Kentucky, 357 + at the Schuyler Mansion, Albany, New York, 394 + + Hough, Atherton, 50 + + House of Seven Gables, 41 + + Houses: Paul Revere's, Boston, Massachusetts, 23 + Elmwood, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 36 + Craigie House, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 40, 403 + Adams House, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 44 + Quincy Mansion, Quincy, Massachusetts, 49 + Fernside Farm, Haverhill, Massachusetts, 54 + Duston Garrison House, Haverhill, Massachusetts, 56 + The Old Manse, Concord, Massachusetts, 61 + The Wayside, Concord, Massachusetts, 61 + Royall House, Medford, Massachusetts, 66 + Bennet-Boardman, Saugus, Massachusetts, 69 + Broadhearth, Saugus, Massachusetts, 69 + Jeremiah Lee House, Marblehead, Massachusetts, 72 + Morris-Jumel House, New York City, 87 + Philipse Manor, Yonkers, New York, 91, 105 + The Grange, New York City, 100 + Van Cortlandt, New York City, 105 + Hasbrouck, Newburgh, New York, 106 + Franklin Palace, Perth Amboy, New Jersey, 115 + Ford Mansion, Morristown, New Jersey, 126 + Campfield, Morristown, New Jersey, 126 + Morven, the Mercer House and Washington's Headquarters at Rocky + Hill, New Jersey, 134 + Letitia Penn, Philadelphia, 145 + Pennsbury Manor, Pennsylvania, 147 + Cliveden, Germantown, Pennsylvania, 156 + David Rittenhouse, Philadelphia, 170 + Isaac Potts, at Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, 175 + Pennypacker's Mills, Pennsylvania, 178 + Dawesfield, Pennsylvania, 178 + Sweetbrier, Philadelphia, 183 + Mill Grove, Pennsylvania, 187 + Fatlands, Pennsylvania, 187 + Waynesborough, Paoli, Pennsylvania, 192 + Amstel, New Castle, Delaware, 205 + George Read's, New Castle, Delaware, 207 + Ridgely, Dover, Delaware, 208 + Doughoregan Manor, Maryland, 216 + Upton Scott, Annapolis, Maryland, 220 + White House, Washington, 230, 236 + Octagon, Washington, 231, 234, 236, 317 + Mt. Airy, Virginia, 234, 314 + Mt. Vernon, Virginia, 241 + Arlington, Virginia, 246 + Mary Washington's, Fredericksburg, Virginia, 251 + Pine Grove, Virginia, 253 + Kenmore, Virginia, 253 + Greenway, Virginia, 257 + Sherwood Forest, Virginia, 257 + Nelson, Yorktown, Virginia, 270 + Moore House, Yorktown, Virginia, 270 + John Marshall's, Richmond, Virginia, 274 + Sabine Hall, Virginia, 278 + Westover, Virginia, 278 + Shirley, Virginia, 280 + Carter's Grove, Virginia, 280 + Brandon, Virginia, 281 + Gunston Hall, Virginia, 281 + Montpelier, Virginia, 296 + Shadwell, Virginia, 297, 322 + Oak Hill, Virginia, 301 + Red Hill, Virginia, 305 + Monticello, Virginia, 322 + Rebecca Motte's, Charleston, South Carolina, 336 + Pringle House, Charleston, 336 + Hermitage, Nashville, Tennessee, 351 + Ashland, Lexington, Kentucky, 355 + Whitley's Station, Kentucky, 359 + White Haven, St. Louis, Missouri, 362 + "Hardscrabble," St. Louis, Missouri, 363 + Abraham Lincoln's, Springfield, Illinois, 369 + Harrison Mansion, Vincennes, Indiana, 374 + Rufus Putnam's House, Marietta, Ohio, 377 + Monument Place, Elm Grove, West Virginia, 381 + Schuyler Mansion, Albany, New York, 391 + Wentworth House, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 395 + Warner House, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 399 + Longfellow House, Portland, Maine, 400 + + Houston, Sam, 347 + + Hovey, Dr. H. C., 77 + + Howe, Lord, 95, 192 + + Huguenot Church, Charleston, South Carolina, 335 + + Hull, Hannah, 50 + + Hutchinson, Ann, 50 + + + Independence Bell, 169, 199 + + Independence, The Declaration of, 20 + + Independence Hall, Philadelphia, 151, 162 + + Independent Church, Savannah, Georgia, 340 + + Indians, attacked by the, 58, 361, 382 + + Institute of American Architects, 238 + + + Jackson, Andrew, 233, 347, 351 + + James River Canal Company, 285 + + Jamestown, Virginia, 288 + + Jay, John, 98 + + Jefferson, Thomas, 170, 173, 260, 272, 294, 297, 299, 301, 322, + 326 + + Jeremiah Lee House, Marblehead, Massachusetts, 72 + + John Marshall's House, Richmond, Virginia, 274 + + Johns, Kensey, 206 + + Johnson, Nicholas, 78 + + _Journal and General Advertiser_, New York, 95 + + _Journal_, Springfield, Illinois, 372 + + Jumel-Burr, Madam, 90 + + Jumel, Stephen, 90 + + + Kasimir, Fort, Delaware, 203 + + Kenmore, Virginia, 253 + + Kent, Chancellor, 103 + + _Kentucke Gazette_, 355 + + Key, Francis Scott, 222 + + Kidd, Captain, 92 + + King, Washington asked to become, 108 + + King's Chapel, Boston, 32 + + Kingston, New York, 226 + + Knyphausen, General, 138, 194 + + + Lafayette, Marquis de, 107, 193, 199, 256, 296, 299, 304, 346, + 353, 381 + + Latrobe, Benjamin Henry, 227 + + Leader, Richard, 69 + + Lee, Jeremiah, 72 + + Lee, Richard Henry, 124, 244 + + Lee, Robert E., 246, 280, 287 + + "Lehigh, House on the," 197 + + Letitia Penn House, Philadelphia, 145 + + Lexington, battle of, 78, 166 + + Lexington, Massachusetts, 26, 27, 73 + + _Liberator, The_, 22 + + Liberty Bell, 169, 199 + + Lidgett, Mrs. Elizabeth, 67 + + _Lightning_, ship, 333 + + Lincoln, Abraham, 230, 233, 369, 371, 372 + + _Little Pilgrim, The_ newspaper, 54 + + Livingston, Robert R., 98 + + Logan, James, 148 + + Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, 40, 396, 400 + + Longfellow, Mrs. Henry Wadsworth, 41 + + Lossing, Benson J., 152 + + Lottery for church building purposes, 159 + + Louisiana, 191 + + Louisiana Purchase, 294 + + Louisiana transferred to the United States, 344 + + Lowell, General Charles Russell, 38 + + Lowell, James Jackson, 38 + + Lowell, James Russell, 36, 37 + + Lowell, Maria, 38 + + Lowell, Rev. Charles, 37 + + Lowly office after the Presidency, 261 + + Loyalists' houses confiscated, 89 + + Lunt, Ezra, 78 + + + Maddox, Rev. Robert, 212 + + Madison, James, 37, 223, 236, 296 + + Makemie, Frances, 212 + + Mantonomi, 81 + + Marblehead, Massachusetts, 72 + + Marietta, Ohio, 377 + + Marion, General, 337 + + Marriages: Mary Philipse and Roger Morris, 93 + Rev. William Tennent and Mrs. Noble, 123 + Alexander Hamilton and Elizabeth Schuyler, 129 + William Penn and Guli Springett, 145 + William Penn and Hannah Callowhill, 147 + William Aubrey and Letitia Penn, 148 + John James Audubon and Mary Bakewell, 190 + Kensey Johns and Anne Van Dyke, 206 + Charles J. Du Pont and Dorcas M. Van Dyke, 208 + Upton Scott and Elizabeth Ross, 221 + Robert E. Lee and Miss Custis, 247 + Augustine Washington and Mary Ball, 252 + John Rolfe and Pocahontas, 266 + John Tyler and Letitia Christian, 260 + Thomas Nelson and Lucy Grymes, 270 + James Madison and Dorothy Todd, 298 + James Madison and Eliza Kortwright, 301 + George Washington and Martha Custis, 321 + Thomas Jefferson and Martha Skelton, 322 + Jacob Motte and Rebecca Brewton, 336 + Woodrow Wilson and Ellen Axson, 343 + Henry Clay and Lavinia Hart, 355 + Ulysses S. Grant and Julia Dent, 362 + Abraham Lincoln and Mary Todd, 370 + Moses Shepherd and Lydia Boggs, 383 + Philip Schuyler and Catherine Van Rensselaer, 393 + Alexander Hamilton and Elizabeth Schuyler, 393 + Governor Wentworth and Martha Hilton, 397 + Michael Wentworth and Mrs. Martha Wentworth, 399 + + Marshall, Chief Justice, 169, 274, 294 + + Martineau, Harriet, 299, 356 + + _Mary_, ship, 245 + + Mary Washington House, Fredericksburg, Virginia, 251 + + Mason and Dixon line, 171 + + Mason, George, 281, 312 + + Mason, Lowell, 342 + + Massachusetts Bay Colony, 28 + + Massacre, Boston, 19, 31 + + Massasoit, 80 + + Mather, Cotton, 58 + + Mather, Increase, 32 + + _Mayflower_, Putnam's barge on the Ohio, 379 + + McColloch's leap, 382 + + McKinley, William, 346 + + Meade, Bishop, 276, 319 + + Medford, Massachusetts, 27, 66 + + Mercer, General, 135 + + Mercer House, Princeton, New Jersey, 134 + + _Mercury_, New York, 87 + + Mill Grove, near Philadelphia, 187 + + Monmouth, battle of, 123 + + Monroe, James, 232, 294, 301, 342 + + Montgomery, General, 97 + + Monticello, Virginia, 322 + + Montpelier, Virginia, 296 + + Monument Place, Elm Grove, West Virginia, 381 + + Monumental Church, Richmond, Virginia, 277, 294 + + Moore House, Yorktown, Virginia, 270, 274 + + Moravian Church, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, 196 + + Morris, Gouverneur, 98, 103 + + Morris-Jumel House, New York City, 87, 94 + + Morris, Robert, 184 + + Morris, Roger, 87, 93 + + Morven, Princeton, New Jersey, 134 + + "Mosses from an Old Manse," 63 + + Mount Airy, Virginia, 234, 314 + + Mount Vernon, Virginia, 109, 241 + + Munitions, Revolutionary, 173 + + + Nantes, Edict of, 28 + + Nassau Hall, Princeton, New Jersey, 130 + + _National Intelligencer_, Washington, 236 + + National Pike, 384 + + Nelson House, Yorktown, Virginia, 270 + + Nelson, Thomas, 270 + + Newark, New Jersey, 130 + + Newburyport, Massachusetts, 55, 75 + + New Castle, Delaware, 145, 203 + + New England Antiquities, Society for the Preservation of, 71 + + New Orleans, battle of, 346 + + Newspapers: _Liberator_, 22 + Essex _Gazette_, 25 + Boston _News Letter_, 28 + Boston _Gazette_, 30 + _Little Pilgrim, The_, 54 + New York _Mercury_, 87 + New York _Daily Advertiser_, 87 + New York _Gazette_, 95, 99 + New York _Journal and General Advertiser_, 95 + Philadelphia _Pennsylvania Packet_, 97 + _Pennsylvania Evening Post_, 155, 173 + _Pennsylvania Gazette_, 164 + _Daily American Advertiser_, Philadelphia, 196 + _National Intelligencer_, Washington, 227, 236 + _Gazette of the United States_, 256 + Williamsburg _Gazette_, 262 + _American Standard_, Richmond, Virginia, 295 + San Antonio _Herald_, 348 + _Kentucke Gazette_, 355 + Springfield _Journal_, 372 + Portland _Gazette_, 402 + + Nicola, Lewis, tries to tempt Washington, 108 + + Norriton, Pennsylvania, 170 + + Norriton Presbyterian Church, 172 + + North Church, Boston, 27 + + Northwestern Territory, 274 + + Nova Scotia, Franklin's land speculation in, 117 + + Noyes, Alfred, 136 + + + Oak Hill, Virginia, 301 + + Octagon House, Washington, 231, 234, 236, 317 + + Oglethorpe, General James E., 341 + + Ohio Company, the, 378 + + Ohio River, floating down the, 190 + + Old Manse, the, Concord, Massachusetts, 61 + + Old Pine Street Church, Philadelphia, 159 + + Old North Church, Boston, 32 + + Old South Church, 20, 24, 31, 32 + + Old South Church, Newburyport, Massachusetts, 75 + + Old State House, Boston, 19 + + Old Tennent Church, Freehold, New Jersey, 122 + + Oliver, Thomas, 36 + + Ordway, Alfred A., 56 + + O'Reilly, Count Alejandro, 343 + + Orin, Azor, 73 + + "Oven, The," temporary Capitol, 227 + + + Paoli Massacre, 181, 194 + + Parsons, Dr. Jonathan, 78 + + Patriot who destroyed their own houses: Thomas Nelson, 271; + Rebecca Motte, 339 + + Pauling, John, 178 + + Paul Revere's House, Boston, Massachusetts, 23 + + Peabody, Sophia, 62 + + Peace, signing of, in 1783, 110 + + Peale, Charles Wilson, 133, 154 + + Penn, Letitia, 146 + + Penn, Thomas and Richard, 153 + + Penn, William, 145, 162, 204 + + Pennsbury Manor, Pennsylvania, 147 + + _Pennsylvania Evening Post_, 155, 173 + + _Pennsylvania Gazette_, 164 + + _Pennsylvania Packet_, Philadelphia, 97 + + Pennypacker, Samuel W., 171 + + Penobscot expedition, 28 + + Persecution, religious, in New York, 213 + + Phi Beta Kappa Society, 294 + + Philadelphia, evacuation of, 177 + + Philadelphia, Paul Revere rides to, 25 + + Philipsburgh, Manor of, 92 + + Philipse, Colonel Frederick, 92 + + Philipse, Frederick, 91 + + Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, New York, 91 + + Philipse, Mary, 93 + + Pine Grove, Virginia, 253 + + Pine-tree shillings, dowry of, 50 + + Plum pudding, the best dinner, 260 + + Plymouth, New Hampshire, 66 + + Pohick Church, Virginia, 249, 311 + + Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 26, 395 + + Potomac Canal, 218, 285 + + Prayer at opening of First Continental Congress, 151 + + Prayer for the King, omitted, 154 + + President's pew: in St. Paul's Chapel, New York, 96 + in St. Peter's, Philadelphia, 154 + in Pohick Church, Virginia, 312 + + Princeton, battle of, 133, 135 + + Princeton University, 130 + + Pringle House, Charleston, South Carolina, 336 + + Providence, Rhode Island, 82 + + Putnam, William Lowell, 38 + + "Put Watts into them, boys," 140 + + + Quincy, Dorothy, 52 + + Quincy, Edmund, 49, 51 + + Quincy, Edmund, III, 51 + + Quincy, Josiah, 53 + + Quincy, Judith, 50 + + Quincy Mansion, Quincy, Massachusetts, 49 + + Quincy, Massachusetts, 44 + + Quincy, Massachusetts Historical Society, 47 + + + Randolph, Edmund, 269, 294 + + Randolph, John, 228 + + Read, George, 205 + + Red Bank, New Jersey, victory at, 181 + + Redemptioners, purchase of, 186 + + Red Hill, Virginia, 305 + + Revere, Paul, 23, 33, 53, 77 + + Rhode Island, 83 + + Ridgely, Dr. Charles Greenburg, 209 + + Rittenhouse, David, 198 + + Rittenhouse House, Philadelphia, 170 + + Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, Duc de la, 325 + + Rodney, Caesar, 208, 209 + + Roosevelt, Theodore, 233, 290 + + Ross, George, 204 + + Royall House, Medford, Massachusetts, 66 + + Royall, Isaac, 67 + + Royall, William, 67 + + Rufus Putnam's House, Marietta, Ohio, 377 + + Rush, Dr. Benjamin, 163, 171 + + + St. John's Church, Richmond, Virginia, 264, 266 + + St. Luke's Church, Smithfield, Virginia, 318 + + St. Martins-in-the-Fields, London, 82 + + St. Michael's Church, Charleston, South Carolina, 333 + + St. Peter's Church, New Kent County, Virginia, 318 + + St. Peter's Church, Philadelphia, 153 + + St. Philip's Church, Charleston, South Carolina, 335, 340 + + Salem, Massachusetts, 80 + + Savannah, Georgia, Siege of, 341 + + Schools, free, beginnings of, in Pennsylvania, 186 + + Schuyler, Catherine, 393 + + Schuyler, Elizabeth, 100, 127 + + Schuyler, General Philip, 100, 126 + + Schuyler Mansion, Albany, New York, 391 + + Scott House, Annapolis, Maryland, 220 + + Scott, Molly, 382 + + Scott, Upton, 220 + + Servants, problem of, in early days, 185 + + Severance, Frank H., 386 + + Sewell, Judge Samuel, 50, 74 + + Shadwell, Virginia, 297, 322 + + Sharpe, Horatio, 221 + + Shepherd, Moses, 381 + + Sherwood Forest, Virginia, 257, 261 + + Shippen, Dr. William, Jr., 162 + + Ships: _Dartmouth_, 24 + _Somerset_, 27 + _Welcome_, 145 + _John and Sarah_, 146 + _Surprise_, 223 + _Mary_, 245 + _Constitution_ and _Guerriere_, _Cyano_ and _Levant_, 317 + _Lightning_, 333 + + Shirley, Virginia, 280 + + Signers of the Declaration of Independence: John Witherspoon, 132 + Benjamin Rush, 162 + George Ross, 204 + George Read, 205 + Charles Carroll of Carrollton, 216 + Thomas Nelson, 270 + George Wythe, 290 + Richard Lightfoot Lee, 314 + + Skippack, Pennsylvania, 180 + + Smith, Abigail, 46 + + Smith, Rev. William, 46 + + "Snow-Bound," 55 + + Society for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, 277 + + _Somerset_, ship, 27 + + Sons of the Revolution, 99 + + Springett, Guli, 145 + + Springfield, battle of, 141 + + Springfield Meeting House, New Jersey, 138 + + Stamp Act, 30, 46, 218 + + Star-Spangled Banner, story of the, 222 + + Stark, General John, 68 + + Stark, Molly, 68 + + State House Clock, Philadelphia, 172 + + State House Yard, Philadelphia, 163 + + Steuben, Baron, 176 + + Stevens, Colonel William, 211 + + Stockton, Mrs. Richard, 134 + + Stone Church, Elm Grove, West Virginia, 386 + + Stony Point, New York, 195 + + Stuart, Gilbert, 218 + + Stuyvesant, Petrus, 204 + + Sullivan, General, 43 + + Susquehanna, Falls of the, 226 + + Sweetbrier, Philadelphia, 183 + + Swett, Martha, 74 + + Symmes, Rev. Frank R., 123 + + + Taney, Chief Justice R. R., 222 + + Tayloe, John, 232, 234, 314 + + Tea meetings, 31 + + Tecumseh, Indian chief, 375 + + Tennent, Rev. John, 123 + Rev. William, 123 + + Texas, Republic of, 350 + + Thames, battle of the, 360 + + Theatre fire in Richmond, Virginia, 294 + + Thomson, George, 208 + + Thornton, Dr. William, 226, 234 + + Ticonderoga, 193 + + Tilghman, Tench, 127, 392 + + Tillinghast, Pardon, 81 + + Treaty of 1783, 133 + + Trenton, battle of, 135 + + Tudor, John, 19 + + Tyler, Henry, 290 + + Tyler, Judge John, 257, 258, 294 + + + United States archives, removed to new Capitol at Washington, 227 + + University of Virginia, the, 326 + + + Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, 174, 182, 189, 195, 218 + + Vanarsdal, Rev. Jacob, 141 + + Van Buren, Martin, 232 + + Van Cortlandt, Jacobus, 105 + + Van Cortlandt Park, 104 + + Van der Donck, Jonkheer Adriaen, 91, 105 + + Van Dyke, Henry, 215 + + Van Dyke, Nicholas, 205 + + Vane, Sir Harry, 50 + + Vassall, John, 41 + + Vassall, Leonard, 48 + + Venus, transit of, 171 + + Vincennes, Indiana, 374 + + + Waldo, Albigence, 182 + + Walker, Rachel, 23 + + Wallace Nutting Corporation, 70 + + Walter, Thomas U., 229 + + Ward, Samuel, 42 + + Warner House, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 399 + + Warren, General, 26 + + Washington and Lee University, 248 + + Washington, burning of, in 1814, 184, 228, 231, 235, 317 + + Washington College, Lexington, Virginia, 285 + + Washington, George, 21, 31, 40, 72, 88, 93, 95, 96, 98, 99, 105, + 108, 110, 124, 133, 137, 139, 157, 173, 174, 178, 189, 192, 194, + 206, 218, 226, 234, 241, 246, 252, 256, 272, 281, 283, 285, 290, + 294, 305, 308, 311, 315, 316, 321, 374, 377, 378 + + Washington, Laurence, 241, 253 + + Washington, Mrs. George, 42, 127, 177, 245 + + Wayne, Captain Isaac, 192 + + Wayne, General Anthony, 107, 157, 192 + + Waynesborough, near Philadelphia, 192 + + Wayside, The, Concord, Massachusetts, 61 + + Weare, Meschech, 108 + + Webster, Daniel, 384 + + Weems, Parson, 313 + + Wentworth, Governor Benning, 395 + + Wentworth House, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 395 + + West Church, Boston, 37 + + Westover, Virginia, 278 + + West Point Military Academy, 100, 106, 362 + + Wheelwright, Rev. John, 50 + + Whitefield, Rev. George, 75 + + White Haven, St. Louis, Missouri, 362 + + White House, Washington, 230, 236 + + Whitemarsh, Pennsylvania, 181 + + Whitley's Station, Kentucky, 359 + + Whittier, John G., 54, 79 + + Whittier, Thomas, 54 + + Wilkinson, General, 158 + + William and Mary College, Williamsburg, Virginia, 259, 289, 291 + + Williamsburg Court House, Virginia, 262 + + Williamsburg, Virginia, 289 + + Williams, Roger, 80 + + Wilson, Daniel Munro, 44, 47 + + Winthrop, Governor, 34, 66 + + Wirt, William, describes Patrick Henry's first public speech, 264 + + Witherspoon, John, 132 + + Wolfe, Colonel James, 220 + + Women's Centennial Executive Committee, 339 + + Wren, James, 249 + + Wren, Sir Christopher, 82, 292 + + Wythe, George, 290 + + + Yonkers, New York, 88, 91 + + York, Pennsylvania, 174 + + Yorktown, Siege of, 271, 279 + + + Zinzendorf, Count, 197 + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Page 107: "1872" possibly should be 1782. + Page 309: "Hampdon Sidney" possibly should be "Hampden Sydney." + + Various references to Newcastle or New Castle, Delaware have been + left as printed. + + All illustrations except the frontispiece have been moved to their + references in the text. + + Unmatched quotation marks were left as printed. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORIC SHRINES OF AMERICA*** + + +******* This file should be named 39068.txt or 39068.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/0/6/39068 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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