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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mending and Repair of Books, by Margaret
+Wright Brown, et al
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Mending and Repair of Books
+
+
+Author: Margaret Wright Brown
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2012  [eBook #39075]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Chris Curnow, Ernest Schaal, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
+available by Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/repairmendingofb00browrich
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      Small capital letters were replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
+
+
+
+
+
+MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS
+
+Compiled by
+
+MARGARET WRIGHT BROWN
+
+Fourth Edition
+
+Revised by GERTRUDE STILES
+
+Supervisor of Binding, Cleveland Public Library
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+American Library Association Publishing Board
+Chicago
+1921
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                PAGE
+
+  INTRODUCTORY NOTE                                                7
+
+  WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN TO MEND                                     9
+
+  THE MENDING TABLE: ITS SUPPLIES                                 11
+
+  PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM                                       12
+
+  WAYS TO MEND                                                    13
+
+  WAYS TO CLEAN                                                   19
+
+  BINDING RECORD                                                  21
+
+  TEMPORARY BINDERS                                               23
+
+
+
+
+                           INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+
+The task of mending demands so much of the time and energy of library
+workers and is a factor of such economic importance in every public
+library that it cannot be put aside as incidental.
+
+It is hoped that these suggestions may give definite aid in this homely
+task which is ever present in all libraries.
+
+No attempt has been made to give instruction in the advanced processes
+of mending, as this at once encroaches on the art of binding.
+
+The best mending can be done only where an acquaintance with the
+construction of the book has been acquired through a study of the
+various processes of binding. Librarians are urged to visit binderies to
+see the various processes; and to study the art of binding under
+personal instruction of experienced binders whenever this is feasible.
+
+It is not probable that any one librarian will use all of the processes
+suggested, and some of these will apply only to exceptional cases; but
+the directions cover diversified conditions in order that the librarian
+may have the necessary information whenever required.
+
+THE EXPERIENCED MENDER. This handbook has not been prepared for the use
+of the larger libraries where a bindery is a part of the equipment, or
+where there are members of the staff trained in binding and hence
+experienced menders.
+
+THE INEXPERIENCED MENDER. The purpose of this handbook is to give
+practical aid and guidance to librarians who are entirely inexperienced
+in the work of mending and repair of books and whose knowledge must be
+gained through self-instruction.
+
+The compilers have drawn upon many sources and have endeavored to make
+available the suggestions received and methods used by many librarians
+and practical binders, and grateful acknowledgment is herewith made for
+the co-operation and helpful suggestions received from them.
+
+
+
+
+                      Mending and Repair of Books
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                          WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN
+                                TO MEND
+
+
+The question when to bind or when to mend is of daily recurrence, and a
+decision must be made upon the examination of every circulating book
+returned, before placing it on the shelves. The answer will depend
+largely on the policy of the library regarding the binding question.
+
+No library can afford to circulate shabby, soiled or ragged books,
+because:
+
+    (1) From an economic standpoint, a book's ultimate usefulness, or
+    life, is materially shortened by neglect to bind at first sign of
+    need.
+
+    (2) When books are given proper care by the library, standards are
+    set which insure a like treatment on the part of the reading public.
+
+    (3) The reading public has a right to expect that its books shall be
+    clean and whole, and that its property shall be in proper condition
+    for satisfactory use.
+
+
+WHEN TO BIND
+
+When the stitches break and a section or a few leaves fall out, the book
+should be sent to the bindery immediately.
+
+    This is happening daily with the original publishers' bindings. If
+    the book is removed from the shelves the librarian is at once
+    confronted by the problem of being unable to answer the unceasing
+    cry for the last new novel, as it is the fiction which is usually in
+    this condition. However, if the book is allowed to circulate a few
+    more times there are "pages missing" and the book has become
+    valueless.
+
+    No book should be rebound with pages missing.
+
+
+When the stitches have not broken, but either a few or
+all the sections have become loose:
+
+    There is no excuse for the librarian to leave upon her shelves or
+    permit to circulate books that are held together only by the slender
+    threads with which they are sewed and threatening at any moment to
+    come tumbling forth from the cover. Such books speak in no uncertain
+    terms for rebinding or permanent withdrawal from the shelves.
+
+_Shall books be sent to the bindery when in greatest demand?_
+
+YES, when they cannot be circulated further without permanent injury to
+them.
+
+    Such books should be hastened through the bindery by statement to
+    binder regarding immediate need. If your present binder cannot bind
+    promptly, find one who will.
+
+    The prompt rebinding of a book more than doubles its life. If the
+    book has been reinforced at first sign of giving way (see page 16)
+    all the temporary assistance that can safely be given has been
+    rendered and if the book is of permanent value to the library it
+    must be rebound.
+
+
+WHEN TO MEND
+
+When the stitches are not broken or loosened, and still hold sections
+firmly together.
+
+When the joints are loose.
+
+When the book has once been rebound.
+
+The tendency among librarians is to mend too much before rebinding.
+Mending makes rebinding more difficult and jeopardizes the life of the
+book.
+
+It is only in rare cases, as for example when a book is out of print,
+and yet valuable to the library, that a second rebinding is justified.
+
+
+WHEN TO REPLACE
+
+_Will it be cheaper to mend a book and, when its short life is done,
+withdraw and replace with a new copy?_
+
+YES, when the original cost is less than rebinding.
+
+    NOTE--In the decision to replace, the labor of accessioning and
+    withdrawal must always be taken into account.
+
+    The fresh, clean copies of the "easy books" and other good,
+    inexpensive juvenile books are to be preferred to rebound copies. If
+    the original binding is so poor that a second copy would shortly be
+    in the same condition as the first, it is then advisable to send the
+    book promptly to the bindery for recasing, preferably before
+    circulating.
+
+    Greater durability is thus insured. If the book has an attractive
+    original cover it is preserved and the value of the book enhanced
+    thereby.
+
+YES, when the paper is of such poor quality that the leaves break away
+from the stitching.
+
+YES, when the book is extremely soiled; replace, even if it costs more
+than rebinding.
+
+YES, when a new edition, or better books on the same subject have been
+published.
+
+    In replacing fiction, inexpensive editions are available for many
+    popular titles in the Grosset & Dunlap edition, Burt Home Library,
+    Everyman's Library, etc.
+
+    Some inexpensive editions rebind and wear as well as the first
+    editions. Others because of narrow margins or quality of paper do
+    not pay to rebind. A little observation and experience will soon
+    prove what titles can be rebound to advantage.
+
+
+
+
+                           THE MENDING TABLE:
+                              ITS SUPPLIES
+
+
+A piece of glass or white oil cloth, cut to fit the size of the table,
+will be found most conducive to cleanliness, as it can be quickly and
+easily washed.
+
+    PASTE. Mixed paste or powder form. See page 12.
+
+    CLOTH. White outing flannel, cheese cloth and cheap grade of canton
+      flannel, purchased by the yard at any dry goods store.
+
+    Art Vellum in assorted colors, cut in strips.
+
+    Muslin cut in strips.
+
+    PAPER. Onion skin bond, cockle finish, 9 lb. weight cut into strips
+      for use; tissue paper.
+
+    BRUSHES. Flat, rubber-set photographer's brush, about 1 inch wide;
+      also artist's round bristle 1/2 inch thick.
+
+    SCISSORS. Slender, six-inch blade, good quality.
+
+    KNIFE. Shoemaker's long blade, square at end, or common paring-knife
+      purchased at hardware store.
+
+    FOLDER. Bone, purchased at stationer's.
+
+    NEEDLES. Sharps, No. 1, or any strong and not too coarse darning
+      needle.
+
+    THREAD. Hayes' linen, No. 25; Barbour's linen, No. 40.
+
+    PRESSING TINS. 6 × 8 in., obtained at tin shop. Zinc is pleasanter
+      to use and will not rust.
+
+    CLEANSERS. Wash for pages; wash for book covers; powdered pumice
+      stone; art gum, sponge rubber.
+
+    SHELLAC. Consult local druggist or paint dealer regarding the best
+      white shellac.
+
+    PRESS. An old letter-press can usually be purchased locally for a
+      small sum. Prices on new copying press 10 × 12 in. obtained of
+      local stationer. If press is not secured, old pieces of marble
+      can be used. Bricks covered with paper make good pressing weights.
+
+A local bindery or any binder's supply house will furnish mending
+materials; also price list and samples of materials may be obtained from
+the following:
+
+  Democrat Printing Co., Madison, Wisconsin.
+
+  Gaylord Bros., Syracuse, New York.
+
+
+
+
+                       PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM
+
+
+Paste may be used with less danger of injury to the book than glue, and
+is the only mending medium which should be used on books that are to be
+rebound. Under no condition should mucilage be used on any book which is
+to be rebound. Some librarians persist in doing this and then expect the
+binder to do good work. Glue should be used only by experienced menders.
+
+    USE. Paste for small surfaces is more evenly spread with the finger,
+      and there is less waste than with a brush. Spread thinly, using
+      only enough paste to make paper stick securely.
+
+      Thick paste spreads more smoothly than thin and is not taken up
+      quickly by the paper. This is an important point, for if the paper
+      stretches or expands the work can not be done in a satisfactory
+      way.
+
+      Provide cheese cloth cut in small pieces for use in rubbing down
+      the pasted parts, and for keeping the fingers clean, etc. These
+      should be used only a few times.
+
+      Cleanliness and neatness are absolutely essential to good mending.
+
+There are various powdered pastes on the market used by book-binders,
+bill-posters, paper-hangers and others. Spon Tem or Steko, manufactured
+by Clark Paper & Twine Co., Rochester, N. Y., and Rex Dry Paste, Geneva,
+N. Y., are both excellent in adhesive qualities and easily prepared,
+mixing with either hot or cold water and without cooking.
+
+An excellent mixed paste is made by the Commercial Paste Co., Columbus,
+Ohio, called Gleich's "Gluey" Paste. This, as its name implies, has some
+glue mixed with it and is quick drying and strongly adhesive. Arabol
+Book Glue, Arabol Mnfg. Co., 100 William St., N. Y. City, is highly
+recommended. Purchase in large or small quantities. The various pastes
+used in the school "hand work" are good, and come under the general name
+of school pastes.
+
+RECIPE FOR FLOUR PASTE. Mix a thin batter of flour and water, cook
+and as it thickens add hot water until right consistency and until
+thoroughly cooked. It will be well cooked when all milky appearance of
+the flour and water has disappeared and when bubbles of air begin to
+explode through the mixture. After taking from the fire a preservative
+may be added if desired, such as a half teaspoonful of oil of
+wintergreen to a pint of paste.
+
+At times it is desirable to do some simple pasting, such as tipping in a
+single leaf or label, and for such work any good library paste is a
+great convenience.
+
+
+
+
+                              WAYS TO MEND
+
+
+Avoid too much mending.
+
+Paper used for mending should be cut lengthwise with the grain of the
+paper.
+
+Cloth should be cut the long way of the material.
+
+In mending always use paper of lighter weight than the book. For books
+printed on heavily coated paper, tissue or bond is too light, but paper
+cut from margins of advertising pages of magazines is a suitable weight.
+
+
+PAGES
+
+TORN THROUGH THE PRINTING may be mended as follows:
+
+    (1) Use ungummed, transparent mending paper, cutting it the size and
+    shape of the tear, and about one-half inch wide. Apply a thin coat
+    of paste to the strip and fit it carefully over the tear, having
+    first placed a strip of waste paper under the torn leaf to absorb
+    extra paste.
+
+    (2) For finer or better class of books, upon which more time and
+    care may profitably be spent, rub a very little paste on the torn
+    edges, place torn edges together, then take a rather large piece of
+    ordinary tissue paper and rub it gently along the tear so that the
+    tissue paper will adhere to the torn edges.
+
+    Put under press, and when dry the superfluous tissue paper should be
+    torn off, using care to pull always toward the tear and from both
+    sides at the same time. The delicate fibre of the tissue paper acts
+    as an adhesive and it is almost impossible to discern the way in
+    which the mending has been done.
+
+TORN IN THE MARGIN
+
+    Use thin, firm mending paper, preferably a tint to match paper of
+    the book.
+
+    Cut a strip one-half inch wide corresponding to the size and shape
+    of the tear, apply paste and trim even with the edge of the leaf.
+
+When these processes are used, place books in press or under a weight,
+until thoroughly dry.
+
+There are gummed papers for this purpose but care should be taken in
+their selection as some are likely to darken and discolor.
+
+
+LEAVES
+
+When loose leaves are replaced the greatest care should be taken to make
+sure that they do not extend beyond the edge of the book. If this
+occurs, it shows careless or inexperienced mending.
+
+LOOSE LEAVES may be inserted in several ways:
+
+    (1) If the leaf fits exactly into the book, it may be tipped in by
+    applying paste to one-eighth inch of its inner margin.
+
+    Place the loose leaf in the book, the outer edge even with the book,
+    and rub down the pasted inner margin against the next leaf with bone
+    folder.
+
+    Put the book in press until dry.
+
+Illustrations may be tipped-in in this way when it is desirable to
+preserve them.
+
+    (2) If it is found by measuring that the leaf when inserted, will
+    extend beyond the edge of the book, fold the leaf at the inner
+    margin over a ruler edge, or other straight edge, slightly more than
+    one-eighth of an inch, thus making a hinge. Apply paste to this
+    hinge with the finger. Place leaf in the book and push well back;
+    rub the little pasted hinge down with bone folder, being careful to
+    leave no free paste.
+
+    (3) In case the quality of the paper of the leaf to be inserted will
+    not stand the tipping-in process, or is badly worn at the inner
+    margin, it may be inserted by a guard. Fold a half-inch strip of
+    onion skin paper, lengthwise. Apply a thin coat of paste to the
+    outside of this strip. Attach half of the strip to the inner edge of
+    the loose leaf, and the other half to the adjoining page in the
+    book, close in by the fold. Trim edge of leaf if it projects. Put in
+    press until dry.
+
+Do not use gummed muslin for this work. It destroys the chance of proper
+rebinding and detracts from the appearance of the rebound book.
+
+
+SECTIONS
+
+When _more_ than one section, sometimes called signature, is loose in a
+book which is worth rebinding, it should be rebound at once.
+
+When the thread in one section only is broken, or one section only is
+loose in a rebound book and the rest of the binding is intact, the
+section should be inserted. To avoid further ravelling, it is necessary
+to secure the broken threads of the book either by fastening them
+together, or attaching to new threads; also that the loose section is
+sewed or tied through the super on the back of the book.
+
+LOOSE SECTIONS may be inserted as follows:
+
+    If the folds of the leaves in the loose section are torn or thin,
+    they should be mended before replacing the section. Take a half-inch
+    strip of thin, firm paper, the length of the page; fold through the
+    middle lengthwise and paste down through the center fold of the
+    leaves. A touch of paste along the fold of each will hold all the
+    sheets together.
+
+    Open the book at the place where the section is loose.
+
+    (When the book is open the back of the book separates from the
+    cover.)
+
+    Open the loose section and place it in the proper position in the
+    book. Near the top and bottom in the center fold of the section will
+    be seen the holes which were made by the binder.
+
+    Thread a needle with Barbour's linen thread No. 40, or Hayes' linen
+    thread No. 25, and tie new thread to broken end of thread in book.
+
+    Pass the needle through the hole at the top of the loose section and
+    out between the book and its loose back. Do not pull the thread
+    clear through.
+
+    Drop the needle and thread down between the back of the book and the
+    loose back to the bottom.
+
+    Run the needle and thread from the outside in through the hole at
+    the bottom of the loose section.
+
+    Pass the needle and thread around again in the same way. Draw tight
+    and tie with a hard knot at the point of beginning.
+
+
+JOINTS
+
+Books in the ordinary case or publishers' binding will, after a short
+period of use, show signs of weakness in the joints (where the book and
+cover are attached). The paper cracks and both it and the super on the
+back of the book loosen and unless immediate attention is given the
+stitching breaks and the book must go to the bindery.
+
+This super is a loosely woven cotton cloth which is glued on the backs
+of books to help hold the sections together, and extends from the back
+of the book to the inside of the cover to help hold the book and cover
+together. In the publishers' bindings, this super is usually all that
+holds a book in the cover.
+
+LOOSE JOINTS may be
+
+    REINFORCED by tightening and stripping.
+
+      Hold the book open in an upright position on the table. The back
+      will separate in a curve from body of book; with the round brush
+      apply paste between the loose back and the book, along the joints
+      only. If too much paste is used it will spread over the back,
+      causing the cloth cover to become wrinkled and title illegible.
+      Close the book, care being taken to push book well back in cover,
+      and with bone folder rub well along the joints, squeezing out any
+      extra paste at head and foot. Dry under weight for a half-day at
+      least.
+
+      Then with knife clean off the ragged edges of torn paper along the
+      joint inside the cover. Place the book flat upon the table, the
+      front cover open, take book of similar thickness and place under
+      open cover.
+
+      Take a strip of muslin or paper. Cut this strip the exact length
+      of the book, and apply thick paste so that the paper or cloth will
+      not stretch.
+
+      Paste one-half of this strip to the fly-leaf and the other half of
+      the strip on the cover of the book. Make sure that the strip is
+      smoothly laid, not stretched too tightly from book to cover, or it
+      will pull up first pages when book is used; if too loosely
+      stretched it is unsightly and fails of its purpose; allow the book
+      to remain open until the strip is dry. Repeat this process for the
+      back cover.
+
+
+RECASING
+
+When the stitching has not broken, and the paper is of good quality a
+book may be removed entirely from its cover and recased.
+
+In recasing, painstaking care is required and books must be in condition
+specified to obtain satisfactory results.
+
+    Take a sharp knife and cut through the super at both joints. This
+    super is easily lifted from the inside of the book cover. Pull it
+    off the back of the book, taking great care in this, and remove all
+    particles of dried glue.
+
+    Take white outing flannel, which is light in weight and
+    double-faced, or canton flannel (downy side towards the book), or
+    cheesecloth. Cut a strip as long as the back of the book and two
+    inches wider; paste this over the back only, allowing an inch
+    extension on each side. Do not, in this first process, put paste on
+    the extensions. Draw the cloth over the rounded edges of the back
+    (or joints); rub the back well with bone folder and also over the
+    rounded edges, but do not paste the cloth down beyond the rounded
+    edges. During this process hold the back of the book so that the
+    sections, or signatures, will not separate. After thorough rubbing
+    let dry.
+
+    Apply paste to inside of book covers one inch next to the joints; do
+    not put paste on back of book. Place book in cover, pushing well
+    back, making sure that it is correctly placed. Paste down the
+    one-inch extension of cloth, laying waste paper between it and book;
+    close book, rub joints well with bone folder and allow to dry
+    thoroughly.
+
+    Strip joints, following instructions for re-inforcing; paste clean
+    paper lining on book covers, press and dry. The book should then be
+    opened as carefully as a new book.
+
+
+PRESSING
+
+This adds greatly to the appearance of the mended or repaired books. Do
+not place weights over the rounded back of a book.
+
+Place the pressing boards or tins over the covers of the book only, even
+with, but not extending over, the joints.
+
+Pressure on the rounded back will weaken a book in the most vital part.
+
+
+DO NOT--
+
+    use too much paste.
+
+    use Lepage's glue or any mucilage.
+
+    use cloth strips in a book except at the joint.
+
+    paste heavily up the back unless a very old and not valuable book.
+
+    overmend on a book which will ultimately be bound.
+
+    allow loose pages to be slipped up in the book above the top of
+    book.
+
+    use heavier paper for patching than paper of book.
+
+
+ALWAYS--
+
+    handle books carefully.
+
+    allow sufficient drying.
+
+    have plenty of waste papers and discard when soiled.
+
+    wash brushes well each day.
+
+    pile up books alternating the backs with the foredges. They will
+    stand erect and not slip or slide.
+
+
+MISSING PAGES
+
+When a page is missing and it is impossible to replace the book with a
+new copy, the page may be typewritten and tipped in.
+
+When it is necessary to rebind the book, the margin of the typewritten
+page should be left an inch wider on each side than the regular margin.
+This is for the convenience of the binder, who will trim down the margin
+in process of rebinding.
+
+Make typewritten page conform to size and shape of printed page.
+
+
+NOTATION FOR DAMAGES
+
+When there is an injury to a book which is allowed to remain in
+circulation, the reading public should be made aware that the damage is
+known to the library by a notation, with date, near the injury, e.g.,
+
+    "Damage noted 1 Mr. '20, Free Public Library."
+
+
+
+
+                             WAYS TO CLEAN
+
+
+The book should be cleaned as well as mended. Careful attention should
+be given to the cleanliness of the books in circulation. There is
+nothing that more quickly creates a distaste for the use of a public
+library than the handling of soiled and grimy books.
+
+Careful study of the paper upon which books are printed is
+necessary, and in cleaning the fact that different papers and
+finishes require different treatment must be taken into account. The
+spongy feather-weight paper upon which much of the fiction is printed is
+difficult to clean. Pencil marks may be erased with art gum used gently;
+soil of any other kind is almost impossible to remove. Heavily
+clay-coated paper may be cleaned with powdered pumice or a hard eraser.
+Highly calendered paper and any hand made paper may be cleaned with a
+damp cloth; cleaning but a few pages at a time and allowing book to
+remain open until dry.
+
+
+PAGES
+
+Soiled pages may be cleaned in the following ways:
+
+    With art gum, rub gently and slowly, holding the page flat with the
+    left hand to prevent tearing.
+
+    With powdered pumice stone, rub on with a clean cloth. With damp
+    cloth, be careful that cloth is not too wet.
+
+    Rub always from inner margin of the page outward, to prevent
+    crumpling.
+
+    Brush off carefully all particles of rubber, or pumice stone,
+    allowing none to remain in the folds between the leaves.
+
+Mud stains may be removed by using a soft brush or sponge, with a
+preparation of the following proportions: One cup water, one teaspoon
+ammonia, four drops carbolic acid. Avoid too much rubbing or print will
+blur. Slip the pressing tin under the page, and after washing, place
+white blotting paper on each side of the leaf.
+
+Ink stains may be removed by one of the standard ink eradicators to be
+obtained of local stationer or druggist.
+
+Edges of the leaves may be cleaned by sandpapering, holding the leaves
+of the book very firmly together, or putting book into press.
+
+
+COVERS
+
+SOILED COVERS may be cleaned by using a hard eraser, pumice stone or
+soap and water. The best results are obtained by the use of the
+following wash:
+
+    Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply with a clean cloth
+    and rub hard until dirt is removed, then place upright to dry. This
+    should not be used on leather.
+
+    The book should then be shellacked.
+
+SHELLACKED COVERS. New books may receive preliminary care by shellacking
+before placing in circulation. Shellacking the covers, especially those
+in light colors, provides great protection from dirt, and they are then
+easily washed with the vinegar and water. Another coat of shellac is
+advisable after washing.
+
+    To shellac, hold the book by the printed matter and apply the
+    shellac, which may be diluted with a little wood alcohol, taking
+    care to shellac the edges well. Give two coats; between coats
+    suspend on a cord over night to dry. After the last coat, rub with
+    soft cloth slightly oiled with olive oil. This prevents sticking.
+
+    If the books are labeled before shellacking, the ink must be allowed
+    to dry thoroughly or it may run; in removing the labels, use wood
+    alcohol first to cut the shellac and then soak off with blotting
+    paper and water.
+
+Care should be taken in the selection of the shellac; if not, the books
+will be gummy and hard.
+
+The leather on bound magazines and books often becomes very dry and will
+split and crack. This is especially true of books not greatly used, as
+the oil of the hands acts as a great preservative. To prevent this
+cracking and splitting, some oil is necessary. Vaseline is good for
+this, applied with a cotton pad covered with a soft cloth, and should
+remain on the leather for a day to permit absorption of the oil. Some
+leathers will absorb a second application, after which books may be
+rubbed down and returned to shelves. The oil or vaseline does not harm
+the gilding. This may be done once a year, depending upon the condition
+of heat in library and upon age and condition of leather bound books.
+
+WORN COVERS may be replaced on books with leather backs by removing
+cloth from the boards dry, and using this as a pattern from which to cut
+new cloth or paper. Reline inside of boards with paper.
+
+COVERS SPLIT AT JOINT. Strips of cloth in assorted colors may be
+obtained with other mending supplies to reinforce covers split at the
+joints.
+
+This cloth may be obtained gummed or ungummed; if ungummed, use paste;
+if gummed, moisten with thin paste.
+
+
+
+
+                             BINDING RECORD
+
+
+PREPARATION OF BOOKS FOR THE BINDERY. Closely related to the work of
+mending and repair of books is the preparation of books for the bindery.
+Binders have complained of the careless and unbusiness-like methods of
+some librarians in this matter. Attention should always be given to the
+following:
+
+    Handle a book to be bound with more care than when the binding is
+    sound.
+
+    Collate every book to make sure that no pages are missing, unless it
+    is ascertained that the binder includes this process in his work.
+
+    Many librarians have ceased to make bindery slips, except in the
+    case of important books requiring complicated titles or for
+    magazines. When slip is not made, an excellent way to indicate the
+    lettering for the back of book is to underscore lightly in lead
+    pencil on title page, the specific words in title desired; for
+    author underscore twice.
+
+    The material to be used for binding is generally decided upon in
+    advance by conference or correspondence with binder.
+
+    Magazines should be carefully examined to make sure that each volume
+    is complete, including title page and index. The librarian should
+    write to the publisher for these, if they are not received within a
+    reasonable time after the volume is completed. If missing, instruct
+    binder to bind in stubs so that they may be inserted when obtained.
+
+    In giving directions for magazines to be bound with stubs, state
+    whether stubs are to be at the beginning or end of the volume. Look
+    over previous volumes of set that your volumes may be uniform in the
+    placing of the index, and follow the printer's arrangement.
+
+    Send an alphabetical list of the books to the bindery for checking
+    purposes. Keep a duplicate copy.
+
+    File alphabetically in charging tray the book cards that have been
+    removed from the books; charge these to the bindery.
+
+    Magazines should have a bindery slip made and a sample volume
+    already bound sent that each set may be uniform as to color of
+    cover, lettering, etc. A rubbing of a bound volume can easily be
+    made and sent in place of the volume. If the binder has previously
+    bound magazines for you he has doubtless made sample backs for his
+    own convenience. The slip should show definitely the placing and
+    abbreviations of volume numbers, dates, etc.
+
+WHEN BOOKS ARE RETURNED FROM THE BINDERY. Examine carefully for
+flexibility--should not be too stiff and hard to open; evenness of
+cover; compactness; correct and even lettering; reasonably wide margins.
+
+Check books with duplicate list.
+
+Pay no bills until all mistakes are rectified. Mistakes in lettering can
+be corrected, and when this occurs return to the bindery.
+
+Enter in accession book under "remarks," opposite the entry of each book
+the date when the book was rebound: e. g., "reb'd 1 Jc., '20"; also on
+inside of lower front cover near the joint. A rubber stamp at small
+expense may be ordered from any stamp works, with the word "reb'd" to be
+inserted in the pencil date holder with the date. This saves writing.
+
+Enter on the monthly report blank the total number of books rebound.
+(This gives data for yearly total and obviates the necessity of keeping
+binding book.)
+
+
+
+
+                           TEMPORARY BINDERS
+
+
+The Gaylord Bros.' red rope binder provides an inexpensive magazine
+binder, both for the current periodicals in use in the reading room and
+those in circulation. The cover of the magazine may be pasted on the
+outside of the binder, and after the current month the magazine may be
+circulated just as a book, without damage for future binding. A good
+quality of wrapping paper may be used in place of the red rope paper. It
+is less expensive and wears fairly well.
+
+Information as to terms used in binding and mending and illustrations of
+the structure of a book may be found in the following:
+
+    A. L. A. Committee--Binding for libraries
+                                             A. L. A. Publishing Board
+
+    Bailey, A. L.--Library Bookbinding                      Wilson Co.
+
+    Cockrell, Douglass--Book binding and the care of books
+                                                              Appleton
+
+    Coutts, H. T., and Stephens, G. A.--Manual of library book binding
+                                                       Libraco, London
+
+    Dana, J. C.--Book binding for libraries             Library Bureau
+
+
+
+
+      *      *      *      *      *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected
+unless otherwise noted.
+
+On page 17, "next the" was replaced with "next to the".
+
+On page 20, a period was added after "crumpling".
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 39075-8.txt or 39075-8.zip *******
+
+
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/0/7/39075
+
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+<body>
+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mending and Repair of Books, by Margaret
+Wright Brown, et al</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Mending and Repair of Books<br /><br />
+Author: Margaret Wright Brown<br /><br />
+Release Date: March 7, 2012  [eBook #39075]<br /><br />
+Language: English<br /><br />
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1<br /><br />
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4 class="pg">E-text prepared by Chris Curnow, Ernest Schaal,<br />
+    and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+    from page images generously made available by<br />
+    Internet Archive<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.archive.org">http://www.archive.org</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/repairmendingofb00browrich">
+      http://www.archive.org/details/repairmendingofb00browrich</a>
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 430px;"> <img class="border" src="images/i_cover.png" width="430" height="700" alt="Book cover" title="Book cover" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h1><span class="smcap">Mending and Repair<br />
+of Books</span></h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="cnobmargin"><span class="smcap">compiled by</span></p>
+<p class="cnotmargin">MARGARET WRIGHT BROWN</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="cnobmargin">FOURTH EDITION</p>
+<p class="cnomargins"><span class="smcap">revised by</span></p>
+<p class="cnomargins">GERTRUDE STILES</p>
+<p class="cnotmargin"><i>Supervisor of Binding, Cleveland Public Library</i></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="cnobmargin">AMERICAN LIBRARY ASSOCIATION PUBLISHING BOARD</p>
+<p class="cnomargins">CHICAGO</p>
+<p class="cnotmargin">1921</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Page</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Introductory Note</span> <span class="ralign"><a href="#page7">7</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">When to Bind or When to Mend</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The Mending Table: Its Supplies</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p11">11</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Paste, the Mending Medium</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p12">12</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ways to Mend</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p13">13</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Ways to Clean</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p19">19</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Binding Record</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p21">21</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Temporary Binders</span>  <span class="ralign"><a href="#p23">23</a></span></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page7" id="page7"></a>[pg&nbsp;7]</span></p>
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTORY NOTE</h2>
+
+<p class="cap">THE task of mending demands so much of the time and
+energy of library workers and is a factor of such economic
+importance in every public library that it cannot be
+put aside as incidental.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">It is hoped that these suggestions may give definite aid
+in this homely task which is ever present in all libraries.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">No attempt has been made to give instruction in the
+advanced processes of mending, as this at once encroaches
+on the art of binding.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">The best mending can be done only where an acquaintance
+with the construction of the book has been acquired through
+a study of the various processes of binding. Librarians are
+urged to visit binderies to see the various processes; and to
+study the art of binding under personal instruction of experienced
+binders whenever this is feasible.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">It is not probable that any one librarian will use all of
+the processes suggested, and some of these will apply only
+to exceptional cases; but the directions cover diversified conditions
+in order that the librarian may have the necessary
+information whenever required.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">The experienced mender.</span> This handbook has not been
+prepared for the use of the larger libraries where a bindery
+is a part of the equipment, or where there are members of
+the staff trained in binding and hence experienced menders.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">The inexperienced mender.</span> The purpose of this handbook
+is to give practical aid and guidance to librarians who
+are entirely inexperienced in the work of mending and repair
+of books and whose knowledge must be gained through self-instruction.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">The compilers have drawn upon many sources and have
+endeavored to make available the suggestions received and
+methods used by many librarians and practical binders, and
+grateful acknowledgment is herewith made for the co-operation
+and helpful suggestions received from them.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" id="page9"></a>[pg&nbsp;9]</span></p>
+
+<h1>Mending and Repair of Books</h1>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="h2">WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN<br />
+TO MEND</p>
+
+<p class="cap">THE question when to bind or when to mend is of daily
+recurrence, and a decision must be made upon the
+examination of every circulating book returned, before placing
+it on the shelves. The answer will depend largely on
+the policy of the library regarding the binding question.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">No library can afford to circulate shabby, soiled or ragged
+books, because:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>(1) From an economic standpoint, a book's ultimate usefulness,
+or life, is materially shortened by neglect to bind
+at first sign of need.</p>
+
+<p>(2) When books are given proper care by the library,
+standards are set which insure a like treatment on the
+part of the reading public.</p>
+
+<p>(3) The reading public has a right to expect that its
+books shall be clean and whole, and that its property
+shall be in proper condition for satisfactory use.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="h3">WHEN TO BIND</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the stitches break and a section or a few leaves fall
+out, the book should be sent to the bindery immediately.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>This is happening daily with the original publishers'
+bindings. If the book is removed from the shelves the
+librarian is at once confronted by the problem of being
+unable to answer the unceasing cry for the last new
+novel, as it is the fiction which is usually in this condition.
+However, if the book is allowed to circulate a
+few more times there are &quot;pages missing&quot; and the book
+has become valueless.</p>
+
+<p>No book should be rebound with pages missing.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">When the stitches have not broken, but either a few or
+all the sections have become loose:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>There is no excuse for the librarian to leave upon her
+shelves or permit to circulate books that are held together
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page10" id="page10"></a>[pg&nbsp;10]</span>
+only by the slender threads with which they are sewed
+and threatening at any moment to come tumbling forth
+from the cover. Such books speak in no uncertain terms
+for rebinding or permanent withdrawal from the shelves.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><i>Shall books be sent to the bindery when in greatest demand?</i></p>
+
+<p class="indent">YES, when they cannot be circulated further without permanent
+injury to them.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Such books should be hastened through the bindery by
+statement to binder regarding immediate need. If your
+present binder cannot bind promptly, find one who will.</p>
+
+<p>The prompt rebinding of a book more than doubles its
+life. If the book has been reinforced at first sign of giving
+way (see page 16) all the temporary assistance that
+can safely be given has been rendered and if the book
+is of permanent value to the library it must be rebound.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="h3">WHEN TO MEND</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the stitches are not broken or loosened, and still
+hold sections firmly together.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the joints are loose.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the book has once been rebound.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">The tendency among librarians is to mend too much before
+rebinding. Mending makes rebinding more difficult and
+jeopardizes the life of the book.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">It is only in rare cases, as for example when a book is
+out of print, and yet valuable to the library, that a second
+rebinding is justified.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">WHEN TO REPLACE</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><i>Will it be cheaper to mend a book and, when its short life
+is done, withdraw and replace with a new copy?</i></p>
+
+<p class="indent">YES, when the original cost is less than rebinding.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p><span class="smcap">Note</span>&mdash;In the decision to replace, the labor of accessioning
+and withdrawal must always be taken into account.</p>
+
+<p>The fresh, clean copies of the &quot;easy books&quot; and other
+good, inexpensive juvenile books are to be preferred to
+rebound copies. If the original binding is so poor that a
+second copy would shortly be in the same condition as the
+first, it is then advisable to send the book promptly to
+the bindery for recasing, preferably before circulating.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" id="page11"></a>[pg&nbsp;11]</span>
+Greater durability is thus insured. If the book has an
+attractive original cover it is preserved and the value
+of the book enhanced thereby.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">YES, when the paper is of such poor quality that the
+leaves break away from the stitching.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">YES, when the book is extremely soiled; replace, even if
+it costs more than rebinding.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">YES, when a new edition, or better books on the same
+subject have been published.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>In replacing fiction, inexpensive editions are available for
+many popular titles in the Grosset &amp; Dunlap edition,
+Burt Home Library, Everyman's Library, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Some inexpensive editions rebind and wear as well as
+the first editions. Others because of narrow margins or
+quality of paper do not pay to rebind. A little observation
+and experience will soon prove what titles can be
+rebound to advantage.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p11" id="p11"></a>THE MENDING TABLE:
+ITS SUPPLIES</h2>
+
+<p class="indent">A piece of glass or white oil cloth, cut to fit the size of the
+table, will be found most conducive to cleanliness, as it can
+be quickly and easily washed.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Paste.</span> Mixed paste or powder form. See page 12.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Cloth.</span> White outing flannel, cheese cloth and cheap
+grade of canton flannel, purchased by the yard at any
+dry goods store.</p>
+
+<p class="indent2">Art Vellum in assorted colors, cut in strips.</p>
+
+<p class="indent2">Muslin cut in strips.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Paper.</span> Onion skin bond, cockle finish, 9 lb. weight cut
+into strips for use; tissue paper.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Brushes.</span> Flat, rubber-set photographer's brush, about
+1 inch wide; also artist's round bristle 1/2 inch thick.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Scissors.</span> Slender, six-inch blade, good quality.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Knife.</span> Shoemaker's long blade, square at end, or common
+paring-knife purchased at hardware store.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Folder.</span> Bone, purchased at stationer's.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Needles.</span> Sharps, No. 1, or any strong and not too coarse
+darning needle.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" id="page12"></a>[pg&nbsp;12]</span>
+<span class="smcap">Thread.</span> Hayes' linen, No. 25; Barbour's linen, No. 40.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Pressing tins.</span> 6 × 8 in., obtained at tin shop. Zinc is
+pleasanter to use and will not rust.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Cleansers.</span> Wash for pages; wash for book covers; powdered
+pumice stone; art gum, sponge rubber.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Shellac.</span> Consult local druggist or paint dealer regarding
+the best white shellac.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Press.</span> An old letter-press can usually be purchased
+locally for a small sum. Prices on new copying press
+10 × 12 in. obtained of local stationer. If press is not
+secured, old pieces of marble can be used. Bricks
+covered with paper make good pressing weights.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">A local bindery or any binder's supply house will furnish
+mending materials; also price list and samples of materials
+may be obtained from the following:</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Democrat Printing Co., Madison, Wisconsin.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Gaylord Bros., Syracuse, New York.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p12" id="p12"></a>PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM</h2>
+
+<p class="indent">Paste may be used with less danger of injury to the
+book than glue, and is the only mending medium which should
+be used on books that are to be rebound. Under no condition
+should mucilage be used on any book which is to be
+rebound. Some librarians persist in doing this and then
+expect the binder to do good work. Glue should be used
+only by experienced menders.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="hangindent"><span class="smcap">Use.</span> Paste for small surfaces is more evenly spread with
+the finger, and there is less waste than with a brush.
+Spread thinly, using only enough paste to make paper
+stick securely.</p>
+
+<p class="indent2">Thick paste spreads more smoothly than thin and is
+not taken up quickly by the paper. This is an important
+point, for if the paper stretches or expands the
+work can not be done in a satisfactory way.</p>
+
+<p class="indent2">Provide cheese cloth cut in small pieces for use in
+rubbing down the pasted parts, and for keeping the
+fingers clean, etc. These should be used only a few
+times.</p>
+
+<p class="indent2">Cleanliness and neatness are absolutely essential to
+good mending.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" id="page13"></a>[pg&nbsp;13]</span>
+There are various powdered pastes on the market used by
+book-binders, bill-posters, paper-hangers and others. Spon
+Tem or Steko, manufactured by Clark Paper &amp; Twine Co.,
+Rochester, N. Y., and Rex Dry Paste, Geneva, N. Y., are
+both excellent in adhesive qualities and easily prepared, mixing
+with either hot or cold water and without cooking.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">An excellent mixed paste is made by the Commercial
+Paste Co., Columbus, Ohio, called Gleich's &quot;Gluey&quot; Paste.
+This, as its name implies, has some glue mixed with it and
+is quick drying and strongly adhesive. Arabol Book Glue,
+Arabol Mnfg. Co., 100 William St., N. Y. City, is highly
+recommended. Purchase in large or small quantities. The
+various pastes used in the school &quot;hand work&quot; are good,
+and come under the general name of school pastes.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Recipe for Flour Paste.</span> Mix a thin batter of flour and
+water, cook and as it thickens add hot water until right
+consistency and until thoroughly cooked. It will be well
+cooked when all milky appearance of the flour and water
+has disappeared and when bubbles of air begin to explode
+through the mixture. After taking from the fire a preservative
+may be added if desired, such as a half teaspoonful
+of oil of wintergreen to a pint of paste.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">At times it is desirable to do some simple pasting, such
+as tipping in a single leaf or label, and for such work any
+good library paste is a great convenience.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p13" id="p13"></a>WAYS TO MEND</h2>
+
+<p class="indent">Avoid too much mending.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Paper used for mending should be cut lengthwise with the
+grain of the paper.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Cloth should be cut the long way of the material.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">In mending always use paper of lighter weight than the
+book. For books printed on heavily coated paper, tissue or
+bond is too light, but paper cut from margins of advertising
+pages of magazines is a suitable weight.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">PAGES</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Torn through the printing</span> may be mended as follows:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>(1) Use ungummed, transparent mending paper, cutting
+it the size and shape of the tear, and about one-half
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" id="page14"></a>[pg&nbsp;14]</span>
+inch wide. Apply a thin coat of paste to the strip and
+fit it carefully over the tear, having first placed a strip
+of waste paper under the torn leaf to absorb extra paste.</p>
+
+<p>(2) For finer or better class of books, upon which more
+time and care may profitably be spent, rub a very little
+paste on the torn edges, place torn edges together, then
+take a rather large piece of ordinary tissue paper and
+rub it gently along the tear so that the tissue paper will
+adhere to the torn edges.</p>
+
+<p>Put under press, and when dry the superfluous tissue
+paper should be torn off, using care to pull always toward
+the tear and from both sides at the same time. The delicate
+fibre of the tissue paper acts as an adhesive and it is
+almost impossible to discern the way in which the mending
+has been done.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Torn in the margin</span></p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Use thin, firm mending paper, preferably a tint to match
+paper of the book.</p>
+
+<p>Cut a strip one-half inch wide corresponding to the size
+and shape of the tear, apply paste and trim even with
+the edge of the leaf.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">When these processes are used, place books in press or
+under a weight, until thoroughly dry.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">There are gummed papers for this purpose but care should
+be taken in their selection as some are likely to darken and
+discolor.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">LEAVES</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When loose leaves are replaced the greatest care should
+be taken to make sure that they do not extend beyond the
+edge of the book. If this occurs, it shows careless or inexperienced
+mending.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Loose leaves</span> may be inserted in several ways:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>(1) If the leaf fits exactly into the book, it may be
+tipped in by applying paste to one-eighth inch of its
+inner margin.</p>
+
+<p>Place the loose leaf in the book, the outer edge even
+with the book, and rub down the pasted inner margin
+against the next leaf with bone folder.</p>
+
+<p>Put the book in press until dry.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" id="page15"></a>[pg&nbsp;15]</span>
+Illustrations may be tipped-in in this way when it is desirable
+to preserve them.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>(2) If it is found by measuring that the leaf when
+inserted, will extend beyond the edge of the book, fold
+the leaf at the inner margin over a ruler edge, or other
+straight edge, slightly more than one-eighth of an inch,
+thus making a hinge. Apply paste to this hinge with
+the finger. Place leaf in the book and push well back;
+rub the little pasted hinge down with bone folder, being
+careful to leave no free paste.</p>
+
+<p>(3) In case the quality of the paper of the leaf to be
+inserted will not stand the tipping-in process, or is badly
+worn at the inner margin, it may be inserted by a guard.
+Fold a half-inch strip of onion skin paper, lengthwise.
+Apply a thin coat of paste to the outside of this strip.
+Attach half of the strip to the inner edge of the loose
+leaf, and the other half to the adjoining page in the
+book, close in by the fold. Trim edge of leaf if it projects.
+Put in press until dry.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">Do not use gummed muslin for this work. It destroys
+the chance of proper rebinding and detracts from the appearance
+of the rebound book.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">SECTIONS</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When <i>more</i> than one section, sometimes called signature,
+is loose in a book which is worth rebinding, it should be
+rebound at once.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the thread in one section only is broken, or one
+section only is loose in a rebound book and the rest of the
+binding is intact, the section should be inserted. To avoid
+further ravelling, it is necessary to secure the broken threads
+of the book either by fastening them together, or attaching
+to new threads; also that the loose section is sewed or tied
+through the super on the back of the book.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Loose sections</span> may be inserted as follows:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>If the folds of the leaves in the loose section are torn or
+thin, they should be mended before replacing the section.
+Take a half-inch strip of thin, firm paper, the length of
+the page; fold through the middle lengthwise and paste
+down through the center fold of the leaves. A touch of
+paste along the fold of each will hold all the sheets
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Open the book at the place where the section is loose.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" id="page16"></a>[pg&nbsp;16]</span>
+(When the book is open the back of the book separates
+from the cover.)</p>
+
+<p>Open the loose section and place it in the proper position
+in the book. Near the top and bottom in the center fold
+of the section will be seen the holes which were made
+by the binder.</p>
+
+<p>Thread a needle with Barbour's linen thread No. 40,
+or Hayes' linen thread No. 25, and tie new thread to
+broken end of thread in book.</p>
+
+<p>Pass the needle through the hole at the top of the loose
+section and out between the book and its loose back.
+Do not pull the thread clear through.</p>
+
+<p>Drop the needle and thread down between the back of
+the book and the loose back to the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Run the needle and thread from the outside in through
+the hole at the bottom of the loose section.</p>
+
+<p>Pass the needle and thread around again in the same
+way. Draw tight and tie with a hard knot at the point
+of beginning.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="h3">JOINTS</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Books in the ordinary case or publishers' binding will,
+after a short period of use, show signs of weakness in the
+joints (where the book and cover are attached). The paper
+cracks and both it and the super on the back of the book
+loosen and unless immediate attention is given the stitching
+breaks and the book must go to the bindery.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">This super is a loosely woven cotton cloth which is glued
+on the backs of books to help hold the sections together, and
+extends from the back of the book to the inside of the cover
+to help hold the book and cover together. In the publishers'
+bindings, this super is usually all that holds a book in the
+cover.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Loose joints</span> may be</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p><span class="smcap">Reinforced</span> by tightening and stripping.</p>
+
+<p>Hold the book open in an upright position on the table.
+The back will separate in a curve from body of book;
+with the round brush apply paste between the loose
+back and the book, along the joints only. If too much
+paste is used it will spread over the back, causing the
+cloth cover to become wrinkled and title illegible. Close
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" id="page17"></a>[pg&nbsp;17]</span>
+the book, care being taken to push book well back in
+cover, and with bone folder rub well along the joints,
+squeezing out any extra paste at head and foot. Dry
+under weight for a half-day at least.</p>
+
+<p>Then with knife clean off the ragged edges of torn
+paper along the joint inside the cover. Place the book
+flat upon the table, the front cover open, take book of
+similar thickness and place under open cover.</p>
+
+<p>Take a strip of muslin or paper. Cut this strip the
+exact length of the book, and apply thick paste so that
+the paper or cloth will not stretch.</p>
+
+<p>Paste one-half of this strip to the fly-leaf and the other
+half of the strip on the cover of the book. Make sure
+that the strip is smoothly laid, not stretched too tightly
+from book to cover, or it will pull up first pages when
+book is used; if too loosely stretched it is unsightly and
+fails of its purpose; allow the book to remain open until
+the strip is dry. Repeat this process for the back cover.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="h3">RECASING</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When the stitching has not broken, and the paper is of
+good quality a book may be removed entirely from its cover
+and recased.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">In recasing, painstaking care is required and books must
+be in condition specified to obtain satisfactory results.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="indent">Take a sharp knife and cut through the super at both
+joints. This super is easily lifted from the inside of the
+book cover. Pull it off the back of the book, taking great
+care in this, and remove all particles of dried glue.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Take white outing flannel, which is light in weight and
+double-faced, or canton flannel (downy side towards the
+book), or cheesecloth. Cut a strip as long as the back
+of the book and two inches wider; paste this over the
+back only, allowing an inch extension on each side. Do
+not, in this first process, put paste on the extensions.
+Draw the cloth over the rounded edges of the back (or
+joints); rub the back well with bone folder and also
+over the rounded edges, but do not paste the cloth down
+beyond the rounded edges. During this process hold the
+back of the book so that the sections, or signatures, will
+not separate. After thorough rubbing let dry.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Apply paste to inside of book covers one inch next to the
+joints; do not put paste on back of book. Place book in
+cover, pushing well back, making sure that it is correctly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" id="page18"></a>[pg&nbsp;18]</span>
+placed. Paste down the one-inch extension of cloth,
+laying waste paper between it and book; close book,
+rub joints well with bone folder and allow to dry
+thoroughly.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Strip joints, following instructions for re-inforcing; paste
+clean paper lining on book covers, press and dry. The
+book should then be opened as carefully as a new book.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="h3">PRESSING</p>
+
+<p class="indent">This adds greatly to the appearance of the mended or
+repaired books. Do not place weights over the rounded back
+of a book.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Place the pressing boards or tins over the covers of the
+book only, even with, but not extending over, the joints.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Pressure on the rounded back will weaken a book in the
+most vital part.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">DO NOT&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">use too much paste.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">use Lepage's glue or any mucilage.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">use cloth strips in a book except at the joint.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">paste heavily up the back unless a very old and not valuable
+book.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">overmend on a book which will ultimately be bound.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">allow loose pages to be slipped up in the book above the
+top of book.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">use heavier paper for patching than paper of book.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">ALWAYS&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">handle books carefully.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">allow sufficient drying.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">have plenty of waste papers and discard when soiled.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">wash brushes well each day.</p>
+
+<p class="hangindent">pile up books alternating the backs with the foredges.
+They will stand erect and not slip or slide.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">MISSING PAGES</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When a page is missing and it is impossible to replace the
+book with a new copy, the page may be typewritten and
+tipped in.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" id="page19"></a>[pg&nbsp;19]</span>
+When it is necessary to rebind the book, the margin of
+the typewritten page should be left an inch wider on each side
+than the regular margin. This is for the convenience of the
+binder, who will trim down the margin in process of rebinding.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Make typewritten page conform to size and shape of
+printed page.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">NOTATION FOR DAMAGES</p>
+
+<p class="indent">When there is an injury to a book which is allowed to
+remain in circulation, the reading public should be made
+aware that the damage is known to the library by a notation,
+with date, near the injury, e.g.,</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="indent">&quot;Damage noted 1 Mr. '20, Free Public Library.&quot;</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p19" id="p19"></a>WAYS TO CLEAN</h2>
+
+<p class="indent">The book should be cleaned as well as mended. Careful
+attention should be given to the cleanliness of the books in
+circulation. There is nothing that more quickly creates a
+distaste for the use of a public library than the handling of
+soiled and grimy books.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Careful study of the paper upon which books are printed
+is necessary, and in cleaning the fact that different papers
+and finishes require different treatment must be taken into
+account. The spongy feather-weight paper upon which much
+of the fiction is printed is difficult to clean. Pencil marks
+may be erased with art gum used gently; soil of any other
+kind is almost impossible to remove. Heavily clay-coated
+paper may be cleaned with powdered pumice or a hard
+eraser. Highly calendered paper and any hand made paper
+may be cleaned with a damp cloth; cleaning but a few
+pages at a time and allowing book to remain open until dry.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">PAGES</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Soiled pages may be cleaned in the following ways:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>With art gum, rub gently and slowly, holding the page
+flat with the left hand to prevent tearing.</p>
+
+<p>With powdered pumice stone, rub on with a clean cloth.
+With damp cloth, be careful that cloth is not too wet.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" id="page20"></a>[pg&nbsp;20]</span>
+Rub always from inner margin of the page outward, to
+prevent crumpling.</p>
+
+<p>Brush off carefully all particles of rubber, or pumice
+stone, allowing none to remain in the folds between the
+leaves.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent">Mud stains may be removed by using a soft brush or
+sponge, with a preparation of the following proportions:
+One cup water, one teaspoon ammonia, four drops carbolic
+acid. Avoid too much rubbing or print will blur. Slip the
+pressing tin under the page, and after washing, place white
+blotting paper on each side of the leaf.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Ink stains may be removed by one of the standard ink
+eradicators to be obtained of local stationer or druggist.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Edges of the leaves may be cleaned by sandpapering, holding
+the leaves of the book very firmly together, or putting
+book into press.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">COVERS</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Soiled covers</span> may be cleaned by using a hard eraser,
+pumice stone or soap and water. The best results are
+obtained by the use of the following wash:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply
+with a clean cloth and rub hard until dirt is removed,
+then place upright to dry. This should not be used on
+leather.</p>
+
+<p>The book should then be shellacked.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Shellacked covers.</span> New books may receive preliminary
+care by shellacking before placing in circulation. Shellacking
+the covers, especially those in light colors, provides great
+protection from dirt, and they are then easily washed with
+the vinegar and water. Another coat of shellac is advisable
+after washing.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>To shellac, hold the book by the printed matter and
+apply the shellac, which may be diluted with a little
+wood alcohol, taking care to shellac the edges well. Give
+two coats; between coats suspend on a cord over night
+to dry. After the last coat, rub with soft cloth slightly
+oiled with olive oil. This prevents sticking.</p>
+
+<p>If the books are labeled before shellacking, the ink
+must be allowed to dry thoroughly or it may run; in
+removing the labels, use wood alcohol first to cut the
+shellac and then soak off with blotting paper and water.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" id="page21"></a>[pg&nbsp;21]</span>
+Care should be taken in the selection of the shellac; if
+not, the books will be gummy and hard.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">The leather on bound magazines and books often becomes
+very dry and will split and crack. This is especially true of
+books not greatly used, as the oil of the hands acts as a
+great preservative. To prevent this cracking and splitting,
+some oil is necessary. Vaseline is good for this, applied with
+a cotton pad covered with a soft cloth, and should remain
+on the leather for a day to permit absorption of the oil.
+Some leathers will absorb a second application, after which
+books may be rubbed down and returned to shelves. The
+oil or vaseline does not harm the gilding. This may be
+done once a year, depending upon the condition of heat in
+library and upon age and condition of leather bound books.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Worn covers</span> may be replaced on books with leather backs
+by removing cloth from the boards dry, and using this as a
+pattern from which to cut new cloth or paper. Reline inside
+of boards with paper.</p>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Covers split at joint.</span> Strips of cloth in assorted colors
+may be obtained with other mending supplies to reinforce
+covers split at the joints.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">This cloth may be obtained gummed or ungummed; if
+ungummed, use paste; if gummed, moisten with thin paste.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p21" id="p21"></a>BINDING RECORD</h2>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">Preparation of books for the bindery.</span> Closely related
+to the work of mending and repair of books is the preparation
+of books for the bindery. Binders have complained of
+the careless and unbusiness-like methods of some librarians
+in this matter. Attention should always be given to the
+following:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Handle a book to be bound with more care than when
+the binding is sound.</p>
+
+<p>Collate every book to make sure that no pages are missing,
+unless it is ascertained that the binder includes this
+process in his work.</p>
+
+<p>Many librarians have ceased to make bindery slips,
+except in the case of important books requiring complicated
+titles or for magazines. When slip is not made, an excellent
+way to indicate the lettering for the back of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" id="page22"></a>[pg&nbsp;22]</span>
+book is to underscore lightly in lead pencil on title page,
+the specific words in title desired; for author underscore
+twice.</p>
+
+<p>The material to be used for binding is generally decided
+upon in advance by conference or correspondence
+with binder.</p>
+
+<p>Magazines should be carefully examined to make sure
+that each volume is complete, including title page and
+index. The librarian should write to the publisher for
+these, if they are not received within a reasonable time
+after the volume is completed. If missing, instruct binder
+to bind in stubs so that they may be inserted when
+obtained.</p>
+
+<p>In giving directions for magazines to be bound with
+stubs, state whether stubs are to be at the beginning
+or end of the volume. Look over previous volumes of
+set that your volumes may be uniform in the placing of
+the index, and follow the printer's arrangement.</p>
+
+<p>Send an alphabetical list of the books to the bindery for
+checking purposes. Keep a duplicate copy.</p>
+
+<p>File alphabetically in charging tray the book cards that
+have been removed from the books; charge these to the
+bindery.</p>
+
+<p>Magazines should have a bindery slip made and a
+sample volume already bound sent that each set may be
+uniform as to color of cover, lettering, etc. A rubbing
+of a bound volume can easily be made and sent in place
+of the volume. If the binder has previously bound magazines
+for you he has doubtless made sample backs for
+his own convenience. The slip should show definitely
+the placing and abbreviations of volume numbers, dates,
+etc.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="indent"><span class="smcap">When books are returned from the bindery.</span> Examine
+carefully for flexibility&mdash;should not be too stiff and hard
+to open; evenness of cover; compactness; correct and even
+lettering; reasonably wide margins.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Check books with duplicate list.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Pay no bills until all mistakes are rectified. Mistakes
+in lettering can be corrected, and when this occurs return
+to the bindery.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Enter in accession book under &quot;remarks,&quot; opposite the
+entry of each book the date when the book was rebound:
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" id="page23"></a>[pg&nbsp;23]</span>
+e. g., &quot;reb'd 1 Jc., '20&quot;; also on inside of lower front cover
+near the joint. A rubber stamp at small expense may be
+ordered from any stamp works, with the word &quot;reb'd&quot; to be
+inserted in the pencil date holder with the date. This saves
+writing.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Enter on the monthly report blank the total number of
+books rebound. (This gives data for yearly total and obviates
+the necessity of keeping binding book.)</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<h2><a name="p23" id="p23"></a>TEMPORARY BINDERS</h2>
+
+<p class="indent">The Gaylord Bros.' red rope binder provides an inexpensive
+magazine binder, both for the current periodicals in use
+in the reading room and those in circulation. The cover of
+the magazine may be pasted on the outside of the binder, and
+after the current month the magazine may be circulated just
+as a book, without damage for future binding. A good
+quality of wrapping paper may be used in place of the red
+rope paper. It is less expensive and wears fairly well.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Information as to terms used in binding and mending and
+illustrations of the structure of a book may be found in the
+following:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class="indent">A. L. A. Committee&mdash;Binding for libraries      A. L. A. Publishing Board</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Bailey, A. L.&mdash;Library Bookbinding      Wilson Co.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Cockrell, Douglass&mdash;Book binding and the care of books      Appleton</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Coutts, H. T., and Stephens, G. A.&mdash;Manual of library
+book binding       Libraco, London</p>
+
+<p class="indent">Dana, J. C.&mdash;Book binding for libraries      Library Bureau</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+
+<div class="tnote">
+
+<p class="h2a">Transcriber's Note:</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="indent">Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected
+unless otherwise noted.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">On page 17, &quot;next the&quot; was replaced with &quot;next to the&quot;.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">On page 20, a period was added after &quot;crumpling&quot;.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 39075-h.txt or 39075-h.zip *******</p>
+<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br />
+<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/0/7/39075">http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/0/7/39075</a></p>
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+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mending and Repair of Books, by Margaret
+Wright Brown, et al
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Mending and Repair of Books
+
+
+Author: Margaret Wright Brown
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2012  [eBook #39075]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Chris Curnow, Ernest Schaal, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
+available by Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org)
+
+
+
+Note: Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/repairmendingofb00browrich
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      Small capital letters were replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
+
+
+
+
+
+MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS
+
+Compiled by
+
+MARGARET WRIGHT BROWN
+
+Fourth Edition
+
+Revised by GERTRUDE STILES
+
+Supervisor of Binding, Cleveland Public Library
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+American Library Association Publishing Board
+Chicago
+1921
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                PAGE
+
+  INTRODUCTORY NOTE                                                7
+
+  WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN TO MEND                                     9
+
+  THE MENDING TABLE: ITS SUPPLIES                                 11
+
+  PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM                                       12
+
+  WAYS TO MEND                                                    13
+
+  WAYS TO CLEAN                                                   19
+
+  BINDING RECORD                                                  21
+
+  TEMPORARY BINDERS                                               23
+
+
+
+
+                           INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+
+The task of mending demands so much of the time and energy of library
+workers and is a factor of such economic importance in every public
+library that it cannot be put aside as incidental.
+
+It is hoped that these suggestions may give definite aid in this homely
+task which is ever present in all libraries.
+
+No attempt has been made to give instruction in the advanced processes
+of mending, as this at once encroaches on the art of binding.
+
+The best mending can be done only where an acquaintance with the
+construction of the book has been acquired through a study of the
+various processes of binding. Librarians are urged to visit binderies to
+see the various processes; and to study the art of binding under
+personal instruction of experienced binders whenever this is feasible.
+
+It is not probable that any one librarian will use all of the processes
+suggested, and some of these will apply only to exceptional cases; but
+the directions cover diversified conditions in order that the librarian
+may have the necessary information whenever required.
+
+THE EXPERIENCED MENDER. This handbook has not been prepared for the use
+of the larger libraries where a bindery is a part of the equipment, or
+where there are members of the staff trained in binding and hence
+experienced menders.
+
+THE INEXPERIENCED MENDER. The purpose of this handbook is to give
+practical aid and guidance to librarians who are entirely inexperienced
+in the work of mending and repair of books and whose knowledge must be
+gained through self-instruction.
+
+The compilers have drawn upon many sources and have endeavored to make
+available the suggestions received and methods used by many librarians
+and practical binders, and grateful acknowledgment is herewith made for
+the co-operation and helpful suggestions received from them.
+
+
+
+
+                      Mending and Repair of Books
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                          WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN
+                                TO MEND
+
+
+The question when to bind or when to mend is of daily recurrence, and a
+decision must be made upon the examination of every circulating book
+returned, before placing it on the shelves. The answer will depend
+largely on the policy of the library regarding the binding question.
+
+No library can afford to circulate shabby, soiled or ragged books,
+because:
+
+    (1) From an economic standpoint, a book's ultimate usefulness, or
+    life, is materially shortened by neglect to bind at first sign of
+    need.
+
+    (2) When books are given proper care by the library, standards are
+    set which insure a like treatment on the part of the reading public.
+
+    (3) The reading public has a right to expect that its books shall be
+    clean and whole, and that its property shall be in proper condition
+    for satisfactory use.
+
+
+WHEN TO BIND
+
+When the stitches break and a section or a few leaves fall out, the book
+should be sent to the bindery immediately.
+
+    This is happening daily with the original publishers' bindings. If
+    the book is removed from the shelves the librarian is at once
+    confronted by the problem of being unable to answer the unceasing
+    cry for the last new novel, as it is the fiction which is usually in
+    this condition. However, if the book is allowed to circulate a few
+    more times there are "pages missing" and the book has become
+    valueless.
+
+    No book should be rebound with pages missing.
+
+
+When the stitches have not broken, but either a few or
+all the sections have become loose:
+
+    There is no excuse for the librarian to leave upon her shelves or
+    permit to circulate books that are held together only by the slender
+    threads with which they are sewed and threatening at any moment to
+    come tumbling forth from the cover. Such books speak in no uncertain
+    terms for rebinding or permanent withdrawal from the shelves.
+
+_Shall books be sent to the bindery when in greatest demand?_
+
+YES, when they cannot be circulated further without permanent injury to
+them.
+
+    Such books should be hastened through the bindery by statement to
+    binder regarding immediate need. If your present binder cannot bind
+    promptly, find one who will.
+
+    The prompt rebinding of a book more than doubles its life. If the
+    book has been reinforced at first sign of giving way (see page 16)
+    all the temporary assistance that can safely be given has been
+    rendered and if the book is of permanent value to the library it
+    must be rebound.
+
+
+WHEN TO MEND
+
+When the stitches are not broken or loosened, and still hold sections
+firmly together.
+
+When the joints are loose.
+
+When the book has once been rebound.
+
+The tendency among librarians is to mend too much before rebinding.
+Mending makes rebinding more difficult and jeopardizes the life of the
+book.
+
+It is only in rare cases, as for example when a book is out of print,
+and yet valuable to the library, that a second rebinding is justified.
+
+
+WHEN TO REPLACE
+
+_Will it be cheaper to mend a book and, when its short life is done,
+withdraw and replace with a new copy?_
+
+YES, when the original cost is less than rebinding.
+
+    NOTE--In the decision to replace, the labor of accessioning and
+    withdrawal must always be taken into account.
+
+    The fresh, clean copies of the "easy books" and other good,
+    inexpensive juvenile books are to be preferred to rebound copies. If
+    the original binding is so poor that a second copy would shortly be
+    in the same condition as the first, it is then advisable to send the
+    book promptly to the bindery for recasing, preferably before
+    circulating.
+
+    Greater durability is thus insured. If the book has an attractive
+    original cover it is preserved and the value of the book enhanced
+    thereby.
+
+YES, when the paper is of such poor quality that the leaves break away
+from the stitching.
+
+YES, when the book is extremely soiled; replace, even if it costs more
+than rebinding.
+
+YES, when a new edition, or better books on the same subject have been
+published.
+
+    In replacing fiction, inexpensive editions are available for many
+    popular titles in the Grosset & Dunlap edition, Burt Home Library,
+    Everyman's Library, etc.
+
+    Some inexpensive editions rebind and wear as well as the first
+    editions. Others because of narrow margins or quality of paper do
+    not pay to rebind. A little observation and experience will soon
+    prove what titles can be rebound to advantage.
+
+
+
+
+                           THE MENDING TABLE:
+                              ITS SUPPLIES
+
+
+A piece of glass or white oil cloth, cut to fit the size of the table,
+will be found most conducive to cleanliness, as it can be quickly and
+easily washed.
+
+    PASTE. Mixed paste or powder form. See page 12.
+
+    CLOTH. White outing flannel, cheese cloth and cheap grade of canton
+      flannel, purchased by the yard at any dry goods store.
+
+    Art Vellum in assorted colors, cut in strips.
+
+    Muslin cut in strips.
+
+    PAPER. Onion skin bond, cockle finish, 9 lb. weight cut into strips
+      for use; tissue paper.
+
+    BRUSHES. Flat, rubber-set photographer's brush, about 1 inch wide;
+      also artist's round bristle 1/2 inch thick.
+
+    SCISSORS. Slender, six-inch blade, good quality.
+
+    KNIFE. Shoemaker's long blade, square at end, or common paring-knife
+      purchased at hardware store.
+
+    FOLDER. Bone, purchased at stationer's.
+
+    NEEDLES. Sharps, No. 1, or any strong and not too coarse darning
+      needle.
+
+    THREAD. Hayes' linen, No. 25; Barbour's linen, No. 40.
+
+    PRESSING TINS. 6 x 8 in., obtained at tin shop. Zinc is pleasanter
+      to use and will not rust.
+
+    CLEANSERS. Wash for pages; wash for book covers; powdered pumice
+      stone; art gum, sponge rubber.
+
+    SHELLAC. Consult local druggist or paint dealer regarding the best
+      white shellac.
+
+    PRESS. An old letter-press can usually be purchased locally for a
+      small sum. Prices on new copying press 10 x 12 in. obtained of
+      local stationer. If press is not secured, old pieces of marble
+      can be used. Bricks covered with paper make good pressing weights.
+
+A local bindery or any binder's supply house will furnish mending
+materials; also price list and samples of materials may be obtained from
+the following:
+
+  Democrat Printing Co., Madison, Wisconsin.
+
+  Gaylord Bros., Syracuse, New York.
+
+
+
+
+                       PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM
+
+
+Paste may be used with less danger of injury to the book than glue, and
+is the only mending medium which should be used on books that are to be
+rebound. Under no condition should mucilage be used on any book which is
+to be rebound. Some librarians persist in doing this and then expect the
+binder to do good work. Glue should be used only by experienced menders.
+
+    USE. Paste for small surfaces is more evenly spread with the finger,
+      and there is less waste than with a brush. Spread thinly, using
+      only enough paste to make paper stick securely.
+
+      Thick paste spreads more smoothly than thin and is not taken up
+      quickly by the paper. This is an important point, for if the paper
+      stretches or expands the work can not be done in a satisfactory
+      way.
+
+      Provide cheese cloth cut in small pieces for use in rubbing down
+      the pasted parts, and for keeping the fingers clean, etc. These
+      should be used only a few times.
+
+      Cleanliness and neatness are absolutely essential to good mending.
+
+There are various powdered pastes on the market used by book-binders,
+bill-posters, paper-hangers and others. Spon Tem or Steko, manufactured
+by Clark Paper & Twine Co., Rochester, N. Y., and Rex Dry Paste, Geneva,
+N. Y., are both excellent in adhesive qualities and easily prepared,
+mixing with either hot or cold water and without cooking.
+
+An excellent mixed paste is made by the Commercial Paste Co., Columbus,
+Ohio, called Gleich's "Gluey" Paste. This, as its name implies, has some
+glue mixed with it and is quick drying and strongly adhesive. Arabol
+Book Glue, Arabol Mnfg. Co., 100 William St., N. Y. City, is highly
+recommended. Purchase in large or small quantities. The various pastes
+used in the school "hand work" are good, and come under the general name
+of school pastes.
+
+RECIPE FOR FLOUR PASTE. Mix a thin batter of flour and water, cook
+and as it thickens add hot water until right consistency and until
+thoroughly cooked. It will be well cooked when all milky appearance of
+the flour and water has disappeared and when bubbles of air begin to
+explode through the mixture. After taking from the fire a preservative
+may be added if desired, such as a half teaspoonful of oil of
+wintergreen to a pint of paste.
+
+At times it is desirable to do some simple pasting, such as tipping in a
+single leaf or label, and for such work any good library paste is a
+great convenience.
+
+
+
+
+                              WAYS TO MEND
+
+
+Avoid too much mending.
+
+Paper used for mending should be cut lengthwise with the grain of the
+paper.
+
+Cloth should be cut the long way of the material.
+
+In mending always use paper of lighter weight than the book. For books
+printed on heavily coated paper, tissue or bond is too light, but paper
+cut from margins of advertising pages of magazines is a suitable weight.
+
+
+PAGES
+
+TORN THROUGH THE PRINTING may be mended as follows:
+
+    (1) Use ungummed, transparent mending paper, cutting it the size and
+    shape of the tear, and about one-half inch wide. Apply a thin coat
+    of paste to the strip and fit it carefully over the tear, having
+    first placed a strip of waste paper under the torn leaf to absorb
+    extra paste.
+
+    (2) For finer or better class of books, upon which more time and
+    care may profitably be spent, rub a very little paste on the torn
+    edges, place torn edges together, then take a rather large piece of
+    ordinary tissue paper and rub it gently along the tear so that the
+    tissue paper will adhere to the torn edges.
+
+    Put under press, and when dry the superfluous tissue paper should be
+    torn off, using care to pull always toward the tear and from both
+    sides at the same time. The delicate fibre of the tissue paper acts
+    as an adhesive and it is almost impossible to discern the way in
+    which the mending has been done.
+
+TORN IN THE MARGIN
+
+    Use thin, firm mending paper, preferably a tint to match paper of
+    the book.
+
+    Cut a strip one-half inch wide corresponding to the size and shape
+    of the tear, apply paste and trim even with the edge of the leaf.
+
+When these processes are used, place books in press or under a weight,
+until thoroughly dry.
+
+There are gummed papers for this purpose but care should be taken in
+their selection as some are likely to darken and discolor.
+
+
+LEAVES
+
+When loose leaves are replaced the greatest care should be taken to make
+sure that they do not extend beyond the edge of the book. If this
+occurs, it shows careless or inexperienced mending.
+
+LOOSE LEAVES may be inserted in several ways:
+
+    (1) If the leaf fits exactly into the book, it may be tipped in by
+    applying paste to one-eighth inch of its inner margin.
+
+    Place the loose leaf in the book, the outer edge even with the book,
+    and rub down the pasted inner margin against the next leaf with bone
+    folder.
+
+    Put the book in press until dry.
+
+Illustrations may be tipped-in in this way when it is desirable to
+preserve them.
+
+    (2) If it is found by measuring that the leaf when inserted, will
+    extend beyond the edge of the book, fold the leaf at the inner
+    margin over a ruler edge, or other straight edge, slightly more than
+    one-eighth of an inch, thus making a hinge. Apply paste to this
+    hinge with the finger. Place leaf in the book and push well back;
+    rub the little pasted hinge down with bone folder, being careful to
+    leave no free paste.
+
+    (3) In case the quality of the paper of the leaf to be inserted will
+    not stand the tipping-in process, or is badly worn at the inner
+    margin, it may be inserted by a guard. Fold a half-inch strip of
+    onion skin paper, lengthwise. Apply a thin coat of paste to the
+    outside of this strip. Attach half of the strip to the inner edge of
+    the loose leaf, and the other half to the adjoining page in the
+    book, close in by the fold. Trim edge of leaf if it projects. Put in
+    press until dry.
+
+Do not use gummed muslin for this work. It destroys the chance of proper
+rebinding and detracts from the appearance of the rebound book.
+
+
+SECTIONS
+
+When _more_ than one section, sometimes called signature, is loose in a
+book which is worth rebinding, it should be rebound at once.
+
+When the thread in one section only is broken, or one section only is
+loose in a rebound book and the rest of the binding is intact, the
+section should be inserted. To avoid further ravelling, it is necessary
+to secure the broken threads of the book either by fastening them
+together, or attaching to new threads; also that the loose section is
+sewed or tied through the super on the back of the book.
+
+LOOSE SECTIONS may be inserted as follows:
+
+    If the folds of the leaves in the loose section are torn or thin,
+    they should be mended before replacing the section. Take a half-inch
+    strip of thin, firm paper, the length of the page; fold through the
+    middle lengthwise and paste down through the center fold of the
+    leaves. A touch of paste along the fold of each will hold all the
+    sheets together.
+
+    Open the book at the place where the section is loose.
+
+    (When the book is open the back of the book separates from the
+    cover.)
+
+    Open the loose section and place it in the proper position in the
+    book. Near the top and bottom in the center fold of the section will
+    be seen the holes which were made by the binder.
+
+    Thread a needle with Barbour's linen thread No. 40, or Hayes' linen
+    thread No. 25, and tie new thread to broken end of thread in book.
+
+    Pass the needle through the hole at the top of the loose section and
+    out between the book and its loose back. Do not pull the thread
+    clear through.
+
+    Drop the needle and thread down between the back of the book and the
+    loose back to the bottom.
+
+    Run the needle and thread from the outside in through the hole at
+    the bottom of the loose section.
+
+    Pass the needle and thread around again in the same way. Draw tight
+    and tie with a hard knot at the point of beginning.
+
+
+JOINTS
+
+Books in the ordinary case or publishers' binding will, after a short
+period of use, show signs of weakness in the joints (where the book and
+cover are attached). The paper cracks and both it and the super on the
+back of the book loosen and unless immediate attention is given the
+stitching breaks and the book must go to the bindery.
+
+This super is a loosely woven cotton cloth which is glued on the backs
+of books to help hold the sections together, and extends from the back
+of the book to the inside of the cover to help hold the book and cover
+together. In the publishers' bindings, this super is usually all that
+holds a book in the cover.
+
+LOOSE JOINTS may be
+
+    REINFORCED by tightening and stripping.
+
+      Hold the book open in an upright position on the table. The back
+      will separate in a curve from body of book; with the round brush
+      apply paste between the loose back and the book, along the joints
+      only. If too much paste is used it will spread over the back,
+      causing the cloth cover to become wrinkled and title illegible.
+      Close the book, care being taken to push book well back in cover,
+      and with bone folder rub well along the joints, squeezing out any
+      extra paste at head and foot. Dry under weight for a half-day at
+      least.
+
+      Then with knife clean off the ragged edges of torn paper along the
+      joint inside the cover. Place the book flat upon the table, the
+      front cover open, take book of similar thickness and place under
+      open cover.
+
+      Take a strip of muslin or paper. Cut this strip the exact length
+      of the book, and apply thick paste so that the paper or cloth will
+      not stretch.
+
+      Paste one-half of this strip to the fly-leaf and the other half of
+      the strip on the cover of the book. Make sure that the strip is
+      smoothly laid, not stretched too tightly from book to cover, or it
+      will pull up first pages when book is used; if too loosely
+      stretched it is unsightly and fails of its purpose; allow the book
+      to remain open until the strip is dry. Repeat this process for the
+      back cover.
+
+
+RECASING
+
+When the stitching has not broken, and the paper is of good quality a
+book may be removed entirely from its cover and recased.
+
+In recasing, painstaking care is required and books must be in condition
+specified to obtain satisfactory results.
+
+    Take a sharp knife and cut through the super at both joints. This
+    super is easily lifted from the inside of the book cover. Pull it
+    off the back of the book, taking great care in this, and remove all
+    particles of dried glue.
+
+    Take white outing flannel, which is light in weight and
+    double-faced, or canton flannel (downy side towards the book), or
+    cheesecloth. Cut a strip as long as the back of the book and two
+    inches wider; paste this over the back only, allowing an inch
+    extension on each side. Do not, in this first process, put paste on
+    the extensions. Draw the cloth over the rounded edges of the back
+    (or joints); rub the back well with bone folder and also over the
+    rounded edges, but do not paste the cloth down beyond the rounded
+    edges. During this process hold the back of the book so that the
+    sections, or signatures, will not separate. After thorough rubbing
+    let dry.
+
+    Apply paste to inside of book covers one inch next to the joints; do
+    not put paste on back of book. Place book in cover, pushing well
+    back, making sure that it is correctly placed. Paste down the
+    one-inch extension of cloth, laying waste paper between it and book;
+    close book, rub joints well with bone folder and allow to dry
+    thoroughly.
+
+    Strip joints, following instructions for re-inforcing; paste clean
+    paper lining on book covers, press and dry. The book should then be
+    opened as carefully as a new book.
+
+
+PRESSING
+
+This adds greatly to the appearance of the mended or repaired books. Do
+not place weights over the rounded back of a book.
+
+Place the pressing boards or tins over the covers of the book only, even
+with, but not extending over, the joints.
+
+Pressure on the rounded back will weaken a book in the most vital part.
+
+
+DO NOT--
+
+    use too much paste.
+
+    use Lepage's glue or any mucilage.
+
+    use cloth strips in a book except at the joint.
+
+    paste heavily up the back unless a very old and not valuable book.
+
+    overmend on a book which will ultimately be bound.
+
+    allow loose pages to be slipped up in the book above the top of
+    book.
+
+    use heavier paper for patching than paper of book.
+
+
+ALWAYS--
+
+    handle books carefully.
+
+    allow sufficient drying.
+
+    have plenty of waste papers and discard when soiled.
+
+    wash brushes well each day.
+
+    pile up books alternating the backs with the foredges. They will
+    stand erect and not slip or slide.
+
+
+MISSING PAGES
+
+When a page is missing and it is impossible to replace the book with a
+new copy, the page may be typewritten and tipped in.
+
+When it is necessary to rebind the book, the margin of the typewritten
+page should be left an inch wider on each side than the regular margin.
+This is for the convenience of the binder, who will trim down the margin
+in process of rebinding.
+
+Make typewritten page conform to size and shape of printed page.
+
+
+NOTATION FOR DAMAGES
+
+When there is an injury to a book which is allowed to remain in
+circulation, the reading public should be made aware that the damage is
+known to the library by a notation, with date, near the injury, e.g.,
+
+    "Damage noted 1 Mr. '20, Free Public Library."
+
+
+
+
+                             WAYS TO CLEAN
+
+
+The book should be cleaned as well as mended. Careful attention should
+be given to the cleanliness of the books in circulation. There is
+nothing that more quickly creates a distaste for the use of a public
+library than the handling of soiled and grimy books.
+
+Careful study of the paper upon which books are printed is
+necessary, and in cleaning the fact that different papers and
+finishes require different treatment must be taken into account. The
+spongy feather-weight paper upon which much of the fiction is printed is
+difficult to clean. Pencil marks may be erased with art gum used gently;
+soil of any other kind is almost impossible to remove. Heavily
+clay-coated paper may be cleaned with powdered pumice or a hard eraser.
+Highly calendered paper and any hand made paper may be cleaned with a
+damp cloth; cleaning but a few pages at a time and allowing book to
+remain open until dry.
+
+
+PAGES
+
+Soiled pages may be cleaned in the following ways:
+
+    With art gum, rub gently and slowly, holding the page flat with the
+    left hand to prevent tearing.
+
+    With powdered pumice stone, rub on with a clean cloth. With damp
+    cloth, be careful that cloth is not too wet.
+
+    Rub always from inner margin of the page outward, to prevent
+    crumpling.
+
+    Brush off carefully all particles of rubber, or pumice stone,
+    allowing none to remain in the folds between the leaves.
+
+Mud stains may be removed by using a soft brush or sponge, with a
+preparation of the following proportions: One cup water, one teaspoon
+ammonia, four drops carbolic acid. Avoid too much rubbing or print will
+blur. Slip the pressing tin under the page, and after washing, place
+white blotting paper on each side of the leaf.
+
+Ink stains may be removed by one of the standard ink eradicators to be
+obtained of local stationer or druggist.
+
+Edges of the leaves may be cleaned by sandpapering, holding the leaves
+of the book very firmly together, or putting book into press.
+
+
+COVERS
+
+SOILED COVERS may be cleaned by using a hard eraser, pumice stone or
+soap and water. The best results are obtained by the use of the
+following wash:
+
+    Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply with a clean cloth
+    and rub hard until dirt is removed, then place upright to dry. This
+    should not be used on leather.
+
+    The book should then be shellacked.
+
+SHELLACKED COVERS. New books may receive preliminary care by shellacking
+before placing in circulation. Shellacking the covers, especially those
+in light colors, provides great protection from dirt, and they are then
+easily washed with the vinegar and water. Another coat of shellac is
+advisable after washing.
+
+    To shellac, hold the book by the printed matter and apply the
+    shellac, which may be diluted with a little wood alcohol, taking
+    care to shellac the edges well. Give two coats; between coats
+    suspend on a cord over night to dry. After the last coat, rub with
+    soft cloth slightly oiled with olive oil. This prevents sticking.
+
+    If the books are labeled before shellacking, the ink must be allowed
+    to dry thoroughly or it may run; in removing the labels, use wood
+    alcohol first to cut the shellac and then soak off with blotting
+    paper and water.
+
+Care should be taken in the selection of the shellac; if not, the books
+will be gummy and hard.
+
+The leather on bound magazines and books often becomes very dry and will
+split and crack. This is especially true of books not greatly used, as
+the oil of the hands acts as a great preservative. To prevent this
+cracking and splitting, some oil is necessary. Vaseline is good for
+this, applied with a cotton pad covered with a soft cloth, and should
+remain on the leather for a day to permit absorption of the oil. Some
+leathers will absorb a second application, after which books may be
+rubbed down and returned to shelves. The oil or vaseline does not harm
+the gilding. This may be done once a year, depending upon the condition
+of heat in library and upon age and condition of leather bound books.
+
+WORN COVERS may be replaced on books with leather backs by removing
+cloth from the boards dry, and using this as a pattern from which to cut
+new cloth or paper. Reline inside of boards with paper.
+
+COVERS SPLIT AT JOINT. Strips of cloth in assorted colors may be
+obtained with other mending supplies to reinforce covers split at the
+joints.
+
+This cloth may be obtained gummed or ungummed; if ungummed, use paste;
+if gummed, moisten with thin paste.
+
+
+
+
+                             BINDING RECORD
+
+
+PREPARATION OF BOOKS FOR THE BINDERY. Closely related to the work of
+mending and repair of books is the preparation of books for the bindery.
+Binders have complained of the careless and unbusiness-like methods of
+some librarians in this matter. Attention should always be given to the
+following:
+
+    Handle a book to be bound with more care than when the binding is
+    sound.
+
+    Collate every book to make sure that no pages are missing, unless it
+    is ascertained that the binder includes this process in his work.
+
+    Many librarians have ceased to make bindery slips, except in the
+    case of important books requiring complicated titles or for
+    magazines. When slip is not made, an excellent way to indicate the
+    lettering for the back of book is to underscore lightly in lead
+    pencil on title page, the specific words in title desired; for
+    author underscore twice.
+
+    The material to be used for binding is generally decided upon in
+    advance by conference or correspondence with binder.
+
+    Magazines should be carefully examined to make sure that each volume
+    is complete, including title page and index. The librarian should
+    write to the publisher for these, if they are not received within a
+    reasonable time after the volume is completed. If missing, instruct
+    binder to bind in stubs so that they may be inserted when obtained.
+
+    In giving directions for magazines to be bound with stubs, state
+    whether stubs are to be at the beginning or end of the volume. Look
+    over previous volumes of set that your volumes may be uniform in the
+    placing of the index, and follow the printer's arrangement.
+
+    Send an alphabetical list of the books to the bindery for checking
+    purposes. Keep a duplicate copy.
+
+    File alphabetically in charging tray the book cards that have been
+    removed from the books; charge these to the bindery.
+
+    Magazines should have a bindery slip made and a sample volume
+    already bound sent that each set may be uniform as to color of
+    cover, lettering, etc. A rubbing of a bound volume can easily be
+    made and sent in place of the volume. If the binder has previously
+    bound magazines for you he has doubtless made sample backs for his
+    own convenience. The slip should show definitely the placing and
+    abbreviations of volume numbers, dates, etc.
+
+WHEN BOOKS ARE RETURNED FROM THE BINDERY. Examine carefully for
+flexibility--should not be too stiff and hard to open; evenness of
+cover; compactness; correct and even lettering; reasonably wide margins.
+
+Check books with duplicate list.
+
+Pay no bills until all mistakes are rectified. Mistakes in lettering can
+be corrected, and when this occurs return to the bindery.
+
+Enter in accession book under "remarks," opposite the entry of each book
+the date when the book was rebound: e. g., "reb'd 1 Jc., '20"; also on
+inside of lower front cover near the joint. A rubber stamp at small
+expense may be ordered from any stamp works, with the word "reb'd" to be
+inserted in the pencil date holder with the date. This saves writing.
+
+Enter on the monthly report blank the total number of books rebound.
+(This gives data for yearly total and obviates the necessity of keeping
+binding book.)
+
+
+
+
+                           TEMPORARY BINDERS
+
+
+The Gaylord Bros.' red rope binder provides an inexpensive magazine
+binder, both for the current periodicals in use in the reading room and
+those in circulation. The cover of the magazine may be pasted on the
+outside of the binder, and after the current month the magazine may be
+circulated just as a book, without damage for future binding. A good
+quality of wrapping paper may be used in place of the red rope paper. It
+is less expensive and wears fairly well.
+
+Information as to terms used in binding and mending and illustrations of
+the structure of a book may be found in the following:
+
+    A. L. A. Committee--Binding for libraries
+                                             A. L. A. Publishing Board
+
+    Bailey, A. L.--Library Bookbinding                      Wilson Co.
+
+    Cockrell, Douglass--Book binding and the care of books
+                                                              Appleton
+
+    Coutts, H. T., and Stephens, G. A.--Manual of library book binding
+                                                       Libraco, London
+
+    Dana, J. C.--Book binding for libraries             Library Bureau
+
+
+
+
+      *      *      *      *      *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected
+unless otherwise noted.
+
+On page 17, "next the" was replaced with "next to the".
+
+On page 20, a period was added after "crumpling".
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 39075.txt or 39075.zip *******
+
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