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diff --git a/39075.txt b/39075.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..492a114 --- /dev/null +++ b/39075.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1257 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mending and Repair of Books, by Margaret +Wright Brown, et al + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Mending and Repair of Books + + +Author: Margaret Wright Brown + + + +Release Date: March 7, 2012 [eBook #39075] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS*** + + +E-text prepared by Chris Curnow, Ernest Schaal, and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made +available by Internet Archive (http://www.archive.org) + + + +Note: Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + http://www.archive.org/details/repairmendingofb00browrich + + +Transcriber's note: + + Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + + Small capital letters were replaced with ALL CAPITALS. + + + + + +MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS + +Compiled by + +MARGARET WRIGHT BROWN + +Fourth Edition + +Revised by GERTRUDE STILES + +Supervisor of Binding, Cleveland Public Library + + + + + + + +American Library Association Publishing Board +Chicago +1921 + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + INTRODUCTORY NOTE 7 + + WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN TO MEND 9 + + THE MENDING TABLE: ITS SUPPLIES 11 + + PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM 12 + + WAYS TO MEND 13 + + WAYS TO CLEAN 19 + + BINDING RECORD 21 + + TEMPORARY BINDERS 23 + + + + + INTRODUCTORY NOTE + + +The task of mending demands so much of the time and energy of library +workers and is a factor of such economic importance in every public +library that it cannot be put aside as incidental. + +It is hoped that these suggestions may give definite aid in this homely +task which is ever present in all libraries. + +No attempt has been made to give instruction in the advanced processes +of mending, as this at once encroaches on the art of binding. + +The best mending can be done only where an acquaintance with the +construction of the book has been acquired through a study of the +various processes of binding. Librarians are urged to visit binderies to +see the various processes; and to study the art of binding under +personal instruction of experienced binders whenever this is feasible. + +It is not probable that any one librarian will use all of the processes +suggested, and some of these will apply only to exceptional cases; but +the directions cover diversified conditions in order that the librarian +may have the necessary information whenever required. + +THE EXPERIENCED MENDER. This handbook has not been prepared for the use +of the larger libraries where a bindery is a part of the equipment, or +where there are members of the staff trained in binding and hence +experienced menders. + +THE INEXPERIENCED MENDER. The purpose of this handbook is to give +practical aid and guidance to librarians who are entirely inexperienced +in the work of mending and repair of books and whose knowledge must be +gained through self-instruction. + +The compilers have drawn upon many sources and have endeavored to make +available the suggestions received and methods used by many librarians +and practical binders, and grateful acknowledgment is herewith made for +the co-operation and helpful suggestions received from them. + + + + + Mending and Repair of Books + + * * * * * + + WHEN TO BIND OR WHEN + TO MEND + + +The question when to bind or when to mend is of daily recurrence, and a +decision must be made upon the examination of every circulating book +returned, before placing it on the shelves. The answer will depend +largely on the policy of the library regarding the binding question. + +No library can afford to circulate shabby, soiled or ragged books, +because: + + (1) From an economic standpoint, a book's ultimate usefulness, or + life, is materially shortened by neglect to bind at first sign of + need. + + (2) When books are given proper care by the library, standards are + set which insure a like treatment on the part of the reading public. + + (3) The reading public has a right to expect that its books shall be + clean and whole, and that its property shall be in proper condition + for satisfactory use. + + +WHEN TO BIND + +When the stitches break and a section or a few leaves fall out, the book +should be sent to the bindery immediately. + + This is happening daily with the original publishers' bindings. If + the book is removed from the shelves the librarian is at once + confronted by the problem of being unable to answer the unceasing + cry for the last new novel, as it is the fiction which is usually in + this condition. However, if the book is allowed to circulate a few + more times there are "pages missing" and the book has become + valueless. + + No book should be rebound with pages missing. + + +When the stitches have not broken, but either a few or +all the sections have become loose: + + There is no excuse for the librarian to leave upon her shelves or + permit to circulate books that are held together only by the slender + threads with which they are sewed and threatening at any moment to + come tumbling forth from the cover. Such books speak in no uncertain + terms for rebinding or permanent withdrawal from the shelves. + +_Shall books be sent to the bindery when in greatest demand?_ + +YES, when they cannot be circulated further without permanent injury to +them. + + Such books should be hastened through the bindery by statement to + binder regarding immediate need. If your present binder cannot bind + promptly, find one who will. + + The prompt rebinding of a book more than doubles its life. If the + book has been reinforced at first sign of giving way (see page 16) + all the temporary assistance that can safely be given has been + rendered and if the book is of permanent value to the library it + must be rebound. + + +WHEN TO MEND + +When the stitches are not broken or loosened, and still hold sections +firmly together. + +When the joints are loose. + +When the book has once been rebound. + +The tendency among librarians is to mend too much before rebinding. +Mending makes rebinding more difficult and jeopardizes the life of the +book. + +It is only in rare cases, as for example when a book is out of print, +and yet valuable to the library, that a second rebinding is justified. + + +WHEN TO REPLACE + +_Will it be cheaper to mend a book and, when its short life is done, +withdraw and replace with a new copy?_ + +YES, when the original cost is less than rebinding. + + NOTE--In the decision to replace, the labor of accessioning and + withdrawal must always be taken into account. + + The fresh, clean copies of the "easy books" and other good, + inexpensive juvenile books are to be preferred to rebound copies. If + the original binding is so poor that a second copy would shortly be + in the same condition as the first, it is then advisable to send the + book promptly to the bindery for recasing, preferably before + circulating. + + Greater durability is thus insured. If the book has an attractive + original cover it is preserved and the value of the book enhanced + thereby. + +YES, when the paper is of such poor quality that the leaves break away +from the stitching. + +YES, when the book is extremely soiled; replace, even if it costs more +than rebinding. + +YES, when a new edition, or better books on the same subject have been +published. + + In replacing fiction, inexpensive editions are available for many + popular titles in the Grosset & Dunlap edition, Burt Home Library, + Everyman's Library, etc. + + Some inexpensive editions rebind and wear as well as the first + editions. Others because of narrow margins or quality of paper do + not pay to rebind. A little observation and experience will soon + prove what titles can be rebound to advantage. + + + + + THE MENDING TABLE: + ITS SUPPLIES + + +A piece of glass or white oil cloth, cut to fit the size of the table, +will be found most conducive to cleanliness, as it can be quickly and +easily washed. + + PASTE. Mixed paste or powder form. See page 12. + + CLOTH. White outing flannel, cheese cloth and cheap grade of canton + flannel, purchased by the yard at any dry goods store. + + Art Vellum in assorted colors, cut in strips. + + Muslin cut in strips. + + PAPER. Onion skin bond, cockle finish, 9 lb. weight cut into strips + for use; tissue paper. + + BRUSHES. Flat, rubber-set photographer's brush, about 1 inch wide; + also artist's round bristle 1/2 inch thick. + + SCISSORS. Slender, six-inch blade, good quality. + + KNIFE. Shoemaker's long blade, square at end, or common paring-knife + purchased at hardware store. + + FOLDER. Bone, purchased at stationer's. + + NEEDLES. Sharps, No. 1, or any strong and not too coarse darning + needle. + + THREAD. Hayes' linen, No. 25; Barbour's linen, No. 40. + + PRESSING TINS. 6 x 8 in., obtained at tin shop. Zinc is pleasanter + to use and will not rust. + + CLEANSERS. Wash for pages; wash for book covers; powdered pumice + stone; art gum, sponge rubber. + + SHELLAC. Consult local druggist or paint dealer regarding the best + white shellac. + + PRESS. An old letter-press can usually be purchased locally for a + small sum. Prices on new copying press 10 x 12 in. obtained of + local stationer. If press is not secured, old pieces of marble + can be used. Bricks covered with paper make good pressing weights. + +A local bindery or any binder's supply house will furnish mending +materials; also price list and samples of materials may be obtained from +the following: + + Democrat Printing Co., Madison, Wisconsin. + + Gaylord Bros., Syracuse, New York. + + + + + PASTE, THE MENDING MEDIUM + + +Paste may be used with less danger of injury to the book than glue, and +is the only mending medium which should be used on books that are to be +rebound. Under no condition should mucilage be used on any book which is +to be rebound. Some librarians persist in doing this and then expect the +binder to do good work. Glue should be used only by experienced menders. + + USE. Paste for small surfaces is more evenly spread with the finger, + and there is less waste than with a brush. Spread thinly, using + only enough paste to make paper stick securely. + + Thick paste spreads more smoothly than thin and is not taken up + quickly by the paper. This is an important point, for if the paper + stretches or expands the work can not be done in a satisfactory + way. + + Provide cheese cloth cut in small pieces for use in rubbing down + the pasted parts, and for keeping the fingers clean, etc. These + should be used only a few times. + + Cleanliness and neatness are absolutely essential to good mending. + +There are various powdered pastes on the market used by book-binders, +bill-posters, paper-hangers and others. Spon Tem or Steko, manufactured +by Clark Paper & Twine Co., Rochester, N. Y., and Rex Dry Paste, Geneva, +N. Y., are both excellent in adhesive qualities and easily prepared, +mixing with either hot or cold water and without cooking. + +An excellent mixed paste is made by the Commercial Paste Co., Columbus, +Ohio, called Gleich's "Gluey" Paste. This, as its name implies, has some +glue mixed with it and is quick drying and strongly adhesive. Arabol +Book Glue, Arabol Mnfg. Co., 100 William St., N. Y. City, is highly +recommended. Purchase in large or small quantities. The various pastes +used in the school "hand work" are good, and come under the general name +of school pastes. + +RECIPE FOR FLOUR PASTE. Mix a thin batter of flour and water, cook +and as it thickens add hot water until right consistency and until +thoroughly cooked. It will be well cooked when all milky appearance of +the flour and water has disappeared and when bubbles of air begin to +explode through the mixture. After taking from the fire a preservative +may be added if desired, such as a half teaspoonful of oil of +wintergreen to a pint of paste. + +At times it is desirable to do some simple pasting, such as tipping in a +single leaf or label, and for such work any good library paste is a +great convenience. + + + + + WAYS TO MEND + + +Avoid too much mending. + +Paper used for mending should be cut lengthwise with the grain of the +paper. + +Cloth should be cut the long way of the material. + +In mending always use paper of lighter weight than the book. For books +printed on heavily coated paper, tissue or bond is too light, but paper +cut from margins of advertising pages of magazines is a suitable weight. + + +PAGES + +TORN THROUGH THE PRINTING may be mended as follows: + + (1) Use ungummed, transparent mending paper, cutting it the size and + shape of the tear, and about one-half inch wide. Apply a thin coat + of paste to the strip and fit it carefully over the tear, having + first placed a strip of waste paper under the torn leaf to absorb + extra paste. + + (2) For finer or better class of books, upon which more time and + care may profitably be spent, rub a very little paste on the torn + edges, place torn edges together, then take a rather large piece of + ordinary tissue paper and rub it gently along the tear so that the + tissue paper will adhere to the torn edges. + + Put under press, and when dry the superfluous tissue paper should be + torn off, using care to pull always toward the tear and from both + sides at the same time. The delicate fibre of the tissue paper acts + as an adhesive and it is almost impossible to discern the way in + which the mending has been done. + +TORN IN THE MARGIN + + Use thin, firm mending paper, preferably a tint to match paper of + the book. + + Cut a strip one-half inch wide corresponding to the size and shape + of the tear, apply paste and trim even with the edge of the leaf. + +When these processes are used, place books in press or under a weight, +until thoroughly dry. + +There are gummed papers for this purpose but care should be taken in +their selection as some are likely to darken and discolor. + + +LEAVES + +When loose leaves are replaced the greatest care should be taken to make +sure that they do not extend beyond the edge of the book. If this +occurs, it shows careless or inexperienced mending. + +LOOSE LEAVES may be inserted in several ways: + + (1) If the leaf fits exactly into the book, it may be tipped in by + applying paste to one-eighth inch of its inner margin. + + Place the loose leaf in the book, the outer edge even with the book, + and rub down the pasted inner margin against the next leaf with bone + folder. + + Put the book in press until dry. + +Illustrations may be tipped-in in this way when it is desirable to +preserve them. + + (2) If it is found by measuring that the leaf when inserted, will + extend beyond the edge of the book, fold the leaf at the inner + margin over a ruler edge, or other straight edge, slightly more than + one-eighth of an inch, thus making a hinge. Apply paste to this + hinge with the finger. Place leaf in the book and push well back; + rub the little pasted hinge down with bone folder, being careful to + leave no free paste. + + (3) In case the quality of the paper of the leaf to be inserted will + not stand the tipping-in process, or is badly worn at the inner + margin, it may be inserted by a guard. Fold a half-inch strip of + onion skin paper, lengthwise. Apply a thin coat of paste to the + outside of this strip. Attach half of the strip to the inner edge of + the loose leaf, and the other half to the adjoining page in the + book, close in by the fold. Trim edge of leaf if it projects. Put in + press until dry. + +Do not use gummed muslin for this work. It destroys the chance of proper +rebinding and detracts from the appearance of the rebound book. + + +SECTIONS + +When _more_ than one section, sometimes called signature, is loose in a +book which is worth rebinding, it should be rebound at once. + +When the thread in one section only is broken, or one section only is +loose in a rebound book and the rest of the binding is intact, the +section should be inserted. To avoid further ravelling, it is necessary +to secure the broken threads of the book either by fastening them +together, or attaching to new threads; also that the loose section is +sewed or tied through the super on the back of the book. + +LOOSE SECTIONS may be inserted as follows: + + If the folds of the leaves in the loose section are torn or thin, + they should be mended before replacing the section. Take a half-inch + strip of thin, firm paper, the length of the page; fold through the + middle lengthwise and paste down through the center fold of the + leaves. A touch of paste along the fold of each will hold all the + sheets together. + + Open the book at the place where the section is loose. + + (When the book is open the back of the book separates from the + cover.) + + Open the loose section and place it in the proper position in the + book. Near the top and bottom in the center fold of the section will + be seen the holes which were made by the binder. + + Thread a needle with Barbour's linen thread No. 40, or Hayes' linen + thread No. 25, and tie new thread to broken end of thread in book. + + Pass the needle through the hole at the top of the loose section and + out between the book and its loose back. Do not pull the thread + clear through. + + Drop the needle and thread down between the back of the book and the + loose back to the bottom. + + Run the needle and thread from the outside in through the hole at + the bottom of the loose section. + + Pass the needle and thread around again in the same way. Draw tight + and tie with a hard knot at the point of beginning. + + +JOINTS + +Books in the ordinary case or publishers' binding will, after a short +period of use, show signs of weakness in the joints (where the book and +cover are attached). The paper cracks and both it and the super on the +back of the book loosen and unless immediate attention is given the +stitching breaks and the book must go to the bindery. + +This super is a loosely woven cotton cloth which is glued on the backs +of books to help hold the sections together, and extends from the back +of the book to the inside of the cover to help hold the book and cover +together. In the publishers' bindings, this super is usually all that +holds a book in the cover. + +LOOSE JOINTS may be + + REINFORCED by tightening and stripping. + + Hold the book open in an upright position on the table. The back + will separate in a curve from body of book; with the round brush + apply paste between the loose back and the book, along the joints + only. If too much paste is used it will spread over the back, + causing the cloth cover to become wrinkled and title illegible. + Close the book, care being taken to push book well back in cover, + and with bone folder rub well along the joints, squeezing out any + extra paste at head and foot. Dry under weight for a half-day at + least. + + Then with knife clean off the ragged edges of torn paper along the + joint inside the cover. Place the book flat upon the table, the + front cover open, take book of similar thickness and place under + open cover. + + Take a strip of muslin or paper. Cut this strip the exact length + of the book, and apply thick paste so that the paper or cloth will + not stretch. + + Paste one-half of this strip to the fly-leaf and the other half of + the strip on the cover of the book. Make sure that the strip is + smoothly laid, not stretched too tightly from book to cover, or it + will pull up first pages when book is used; if too loosely + stretched it is unsightly and fails of its purpose; allow the book + to remain open until the strip is dry. Repeat this process for the + back cover. + + +RECASING + +When the stitching has not broken, and the paper is of good quality a +book may be removed entirely from its cover and recased. + +In recasing, painstaking care is required and books must be in condition +specified to obtain satisfactory results. + + Take a sharp knife and cut through the super at both joints. This + super is easily lifted from the inside of the book cover. Pull it + off the back of the book, taking great care in this, and remove all + particles of dried glue. + + Take white outing flannel, which is light in weight and + double-faced, or canton flannel (downy side towards the book), or + cheesecloth. Cut a strip as long as the back of the book and two + inches wider; paste this over the back only, allowing an inch + extension on each side. Do not, in this first process, put paste on + the extensions. Draw the cloth over the rounded edges of the back + (or joints); rub the back well with bone folder and also over the + rounded edges, but do not paste the cloth down beyond the rounded + edges. During this process hold the back of the book so that the + sections, or signatures, will not separate. After thorough rubbing + let dry. + + Apply paste to inside of book covers one inch next to the joints; do + not put paste on back of book. Place book in cover, pushing well + back, making sure that it is correctly placed. Paste down the + one-inch extension of cloth, laying waste paper between it and book; + close book, rub joints well with bone folder and allow to dry + thoroughly. + + Strip joints, following instructions for re-inforcing; paste clean + paper lining on book covers, press and dry. The book should then be + opened as carefully as a new book. + + +PRESSING + +This adds greatly to the appearance of the mended or repaired books. Do +not place weights over the rounded back of a book. + +Place the pressing boards or tins over the covers of the book only, even +with, but not extending over, the joints. + +Pressure on the rounded back will weaken a book in the most vital part. + + +DO NOT-- + + use too much paste. + + use Lepage's glue or any mucilage. + + use cloth strips in a book except at the joint. + + paste heavily up the back unless a very old and not valuable book. + + overmend on a book which will ultimately be bound. + + allow loose pages to be slipped up in the book above the top of + book. + + use heavier paper for patching than paper of book. + + +ALWAYS-- + + handle books carefully. + + allow sufficient drying. + + have plenty of waste papers and discard when soiled. + + wash brushes well each day. + + pile up books alternating the backs with the foredges. They will + stand erect and not slip or slide. + + +MISSING PAGES + +When a page is missing and it is impossible to replace the book with a +new copy, the page may be typewritten and tipped in. + +When it is necessary to rebind the book, the margin of the typewritten +page should be left an inch wider on each side than the regular margin. +This is for the convenience of the binder, who will trim down the margin +in process of rebinding. + +Make typewritten page conform to size and shape of printed page. + + +NOTATION FOR DAMAGES + +When there is an injury to a book which is allowed to remain in +circulation, the reading public should be made aware that the damage is +known to the library by a notation, with date, near the injury, e.g., + + "Damage noted 1 Mr. '20, Free Public Library." + + + + + WAYS TO CLEAN + + +The book should be cleaned as well as mended. Careful attention should +be given to the cleanliness of the books in circulation. There is +nothing that more quickly creates a distaste for the use of a public +library than the handling of soiled and grimy books. + +Careful study of the paper upon which books are printed is +necessary, and in cleaning the fact that different papers and +finishes require different treatment must be taken into account. The +spongy feather-weight paper upon which much of the fiction is printed is +difficult to clean. Pencil marks may be erased with art gum used gently; +soil of any other kind is almost impossible to remove. Heavily +clay-coated paper may be cleaned with powdered pumice or a hard eraser. +Highly calendered paper and any hand made paper may be cleaned with a +damp cloth; cleaning but a few pages at a time and allowing book to +remain open until dry. + + +PAGES + +Soiled pages may be cleaned in the following ways: + + With art gum, rub gently and slowly, holding the page flat with the + left hand to prevent tearing. + + With powdered pumice stone, rub on with a clean cloth. With damp + cloth, be careful that cloth is not too wet. + + Rub always from inner margin of the page outward, to prevent + crumpling. + + Brush off carefully all particles of rubber, or pumice stone, + allowing none to remain in the folds between the leaves. + +Mud stains may be removed by using a soft brush or sponge, with a +preparation of the following proportions: One cup water, one teaspoon +ammonia, four drops carbolic acid. Avoid too much rubbing or print will +blur. Slip the pressing tin under the page, and after washing, place +white blotting paper on each side of the leaf. + +Ink stains may be removed by one of the standard ink eradicators to be +obtained of local stationer or druggist. + +Edges of the leaves may be cleaned by sandpapering, holding the leaves +of the book very firmly together, or putting book into press. + + +COVERS + +SOILED COVERS may be cleaned by using a hard eraser, pumice stone or +soap and water. The best results are obtained by the use of the +following wash: + + Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply with a clean cloth + and rub hard until dirt is removed, then place upright to dry. This + should not be used on leather. + + The book should then be shellacked. + +SHELLACKED COVERS. New books may receive preliminary care by shellacking +before placing in circulation. Shellacking the covers, especially those +in light colors, provides great protection from dirt, and they are then +easily washed with the vinegar and water. Another coat of shellac is +advisable after washing. + + To shellac, hold the book by the printed matter and apply the + shellac, which may be diluted with a little wood alcohol, taking + care to shellac the edges well. Give two coats; between coats + suspend on a cord over night to dry. After the last coat, rub with + soft cloth slightly oiled with olive oil. This prevents sticking. + + If the books are labeled before shellacking, the ink must be allowed + to dry thoroughly or it may run; in removing the labels, use wood + alcohol first to cut the shellac and then soak off with blotting + paper and water. + +Care should be taken in the selection of the shellac; if not, the books +will be gummy and hard. + +The leather on bound magazines and books often becomes very dry and will +split and crack. This is especially true of books not greatly used, as +the oil of the hands acts as a great preservative. To prevent this +cracking and splitting, some oil is necessary. Vaseline is good for +this, applied with a cotton pad covered with a soft cloth, and should +remain on the leather for a day to permit absorption of the oil. Some +leathers will absorb a second application, after which books may be +rubbed down and returned to shelves. The oil or vaseline does not harm +the gilding. This may be done once a year, depending upon the condition +of heat in library and upon age and condition of leather bound books. + +WORN COVERS may be replaced on books with leather backs by removing +cloth from the boards dry, and using this as a pattern from which to cut +new cloth or paper. Reline inside of boards with paper. + +COVERS SPLIT AT JOINT. Strips of cloth in assorted colors may be +obtained with other mending supplies to reinforce covers split at the +joints. + +This cloth may be obtained gummed or ungummed; if ungummed, use paste; +if gummed, moisten with thin paste. + + + + + BINDING RECORD + + +PREPARATION OF BOOKS FOR THE BINDERY. Closely related to the work of +mending and repair of books is the preparation of books for the bindery. +Binders have complained of the careless and unbusiness-like methods of +some librarians in this matter. Attention should always be given to the +following: + + Handle a book to be bound with more care than when the binding is + sound. + + Collate every book to make sure that no pages are missing, unless it + is ascertained that the binder includes this process in his work. + + Many librarians have ceased to make bindery slips, except in the + case of important books requiring complicated titles or for + magazines. When slip is not made, an excellent way to indicate the + lettering for the back of book is to underscore lightly in lead + pencil on title page, the specific words in title desired; for + author underscore twice. + + The material to be used for binding is generally decided upon in + advance by conference or correspondence with binder. + + Magazines should be carefully examined to make sure that each volume + is complete, including title page and index. The librarian should + write to the publisher for these, if they are not received within a + reasonable time after the volume is completed. If missing, instruct + binder to bind in stubs so that they may be inserted when obtained. + + In giving directions for magazines to be bound with stubs, state + whether stubs are to be at the beginning or end of the volume. Look + over previous volumes of set that your volumes may be uniform in the + placing of the index, and follow the printer's arrangement. + + Send an alphabetical list of the books to the bindery for checking + purposes. Keep a duplicate copy. + + File alphabetically in charging tray the book cards that have been + removed from the books; charge these to the bindery. + + Magazines should have a bindery slip made and a sample volume + already bound sent that each set may be uniform as to color of + cover, lettering, etc. A rubbing of a bound volume can easily be + made and sent in place of the volume. If the binder has previously + bound magazines for you he has doubtless made sample backs for his + own convenience. The slip should show definitely the placing and + abbreviations of volume numbers, dates, etc. + +WHEN BOOKS ARE RETURNED FROM THE BINDERY. Examine carefully for +flexibility--should not be too stiff and hard to open; evenness of +cover; compactness; correct and even lettering; reasonably wide margins. + +Check books with duplicate list. + +Pay no bills until all mistakes are rectified. Mistakes in lettering can +be corrected, and when this occurs return to the bindery. + +Enter in accession book under "remarks," opposite the entry of each book +the date when the book was rebound: e. g., "reb'd 1 Jc., '20"; also on +inside of lower front cover near the joint. A rubber stamp at small +expense may be ordered from any stamp works, with the word "reb'd" to be +inserted in the pencil date holder with the date. This saves writing. + +Enter on the monthly report blank the total number of books rebound. +(This gives data for yearly total and obviates the necessity of keeping +binding book.) + + + + + TEMPORARY BINDERS + + +The Gaylord Bros.' red rope binder provides an inexpensive magazine +binder, both for the current periodicals in use in the reading room and +those in circulation. The cover of the magazine may be pasted on the +outside of the binder, and after the current month the magazine may be +circulated just as a book, without damage for future binding. A good +quality of wrapping paper may be used in place of the red rope paper. It +is less expensive and wears fairly well. + +Information as to terms used in binding and mending and illustrations of +the structure of a book may be found in the following: + + A. L. A. Committee--Binding for libraries + A. L. A. Publishing Board + + Bailey, A. L.--Library Bookbinding Wilson Co. + + Cockrell, Douglass--Book binding and the care of books + Appleton + + Coutts, H. T., and Stephens, G. A.--Manual of library book binding + Libraco, London + + Dana, J. C.--Book binding for libraries Library Bureau + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected +unless otherwise noted. + +On page 17, "next the" was replaced with "next to the". + +On page 20, a period was added after "crumpling". + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MENDING AND REPAIR OF BOOKS*** + + +******* This file should be named 39075.txt or 39075.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/9/0/7/39075 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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