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diff --git a/39779.txt b/39779.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9718ae6 --- /dev/null +++ b/39779.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2816 @@ +Project Gutenberg's American Grape Training, by Liberty Hyde (L.H.) Bailey + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: American Grape Training + An account of the leading forms now in use of Training the + American Grapes + +Author: Liberty Hyde (L.H.) Bailey + +Release Date: May 23, 2012 [EBook #39779] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICAN GRAPE TRAINING *** + + + + +Produced by Cathy Maxam and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + + + + AMERICAN + GRAPE TRAINING + + An account of the leading + forms now in use of Training + the American Grapes. + + _By L. H. BAILEY_ + + NEW YORK: + THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1893. + + + + + _By the same Author._ + + + =Annals of Horticulture= in North America for the year 1889. A + witness of passing events and a record of progress. 249 pages, 52 + illustrations. + + =Annals for 1890.= 312 pages, 82 illustrations. + + =Annals for 1891.= 416 pages, 77 illustrations. + + =Annals for 1892.= + + *.* A new volume is issued each year, each complete in + itself. Cloth, $1; paper, 60 cents. + + =The Horticulturist's Rule-Book.= A compendium of useful information + for fruit-growers, truck-gardeners, florists and others. Second + edition, revised to the opening of 1892. 221 pages. Cloth, $1; + paper, 50 cents. + + =The Nursery Book.= A complete guide to the multiplication and + pollination of plants. 304 pages, 106 illustrations. Cloth, $1; + paper, 50c. + + =Cross-Breeding and Hybridizing.= With a brief bibliography of the + subject. 44 pages. Paper, 40 cents. (Rural Library Series.) + + =Field Notes on Apple Culture.= 90 pages, 19 illustrations. Cloth, + 75 cents. + + =Talks Afield=: About plants and the science of plants. 173 pages, + 100 illustrations. Cloth, $1. + + COPYRIGHTED 1893, + BY L. H. BAILEY. + + ELECTROTYPED AND PRINTED BY + J. HORACE M'FARLAND CO., HARRISBURG, PA. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + + Pages + + Introduction 9-11 + + Pruning 11-24 + + +CHAPTER II. + + Preliminary Preparations for Training--The Trellis--Tying 25-33 + + +CHAPTER III. + + The Upright Systems. (Horizontal Arm Spur System. High Renewal. Fan + Training) 34-55 + + +CHAPTER IV. + + The Drooping Systems. (True or Four-Cane Kniffin. Modifications of + the Four-Cane Kniffin. The Two-Cane Kniffin or Umbrella System. The + Low or One-Wire Kniffin. The Six-Cane Kniffin. Overhead, or Arbor + Kniffin. The Cross-Wire System. Renewal Kniffin. The Munson System) + 56-82 + + +CHAPTER V. + + Miscellaneous Systems. (Horizontal Training. Post Training. Arbors. + Remodeling Old Vines) 83-92 + + +[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes)] + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + PAGE + + 1. Grape Shoot 12 + + 2. The Bearing Wood 13 + + 3. Diagram 15 + + 4. Spur 18 + + 5. Renewal Pruning 19 + + 6. A Newly Set Vineyard 21 + + 7. Horizontal Arm Spur Training 35 + + 8. Horizontal Arm (Diagram) 36 + + 9. Short Arm Spur Training 38 + + 10. The Second Season of Upright Training 40 + + 11. Making the T-Head 42 + + 12. The Third Season of High Renewal 43 + + 13. High Renewal, before Pruning 44 + + 14. High Renewal, Pruned 45 + + 15. High Renewal, Pruned and Tied 46 + + 16. High Renewal with Four Canes 47 + + 17. High Renewal Complete 48 + + 18. A Slat Trellis, with Upright Training 51 + + 19. Fan Training, after Pruning 55 + + 20. William Kniffin 57 + + 21. The True Kniffin Training 59 + + 22. No. 21, when Pruned 60 + + 23. A Poor Type of Kniffin 64 + + 24. The Y-Trunk Kniffin 65 + + 25. Umbrella Training 67 + + 26. A Poor Umbrella System 68 + + 27. Eight-Cane Kniffin (Diagram) 70 + + 28. Overhead Kniffin 71 + + 29. Overhead Kniffin 72 + + 30. Overhead Kniffin, before Pruning 73 + + 31. Cross-Wire Training 75 + + 32. Cross-Wire Training, Outside View 76 + + 33. Munson Training. End View 78 + + 34. Munson Training. Side View 79 + + 35. Horizontal Training 83 + + 36. Low Post Training 86 + + 37. A Yearling Graft 91 + + + + +PREFACE. + + +This little book has grown out of an attempt to teach the principles and +methods of grape training to college students. I have found such +teaching to be exceedingly difficult and unsatisfactory. It is +impossible to firmly impress the lessons by mere lectures. The student +must apprehend the principles slowly and by his own effort. He must have +time to thoroughly assimilate them before he attempts to apply them. I +therefore cast about for books which I could put before my class, but I +at once found that there are very few succinct accounts of the subjects +of grape pruning and training, and that none of our books portray the +methods which are most largely practised in the large grape regions of +the east. My only recourse, therefore, was to put my own notes into +shape for print, and this I have now done. And inasmuch as all +grape-growers are students, I hope that the simple account will find a +use beyond the classroom. + +This lack of adequate accounts of grape training at first astonished me, +but is not strange after all. It must be remembered that the cultivation +of the native grape is of very recent origin. There are many men who can +remember its beginning in a commercial way. It seldom occurs to the +younger generation, which is familiar with the great vineyards in many +states, that the Concord is yet scarcely forty years old, and that all +grape growing in eastern America is yet in an experimental stage. +Progress has been so rapid in recent years that the new methods outstrip +the books. The old horizontal arm spur system, which is still the chief +method in the books, has evolved itself into a high renewal training, +which is widely used but which has not found its way into the manuals. +The Kniffin type has outgrown its long period of incubation, and is now +taking an assured place in vineyard management. So two great types, +opposed in method, are now contending for supremacy, and they will +probably form the basis of all future developments. This evolution of +American grape training is one of the most unique and signal +developments of our modern horticulture, and its very recent departure +from the early doubts and trials is a fresh illustration of the youth +and virility of all horticultural pursuits in North America. + +This development of our grape training should form the subject of a +historical inquiry. I have not attempted such in this little hand-book. +I have omitted all reference to the many early methods, which were in +most cases transportations or modifications of European practices, for +their value is now chiefly historical and their insertion here would +only confuse the reader. I have attempted nothing more than a plain +account of the methods now in use; in fact, I am aware that I have not +accomplished even this much, for there are various methods which I have +not mentioned. But these omitted forms are mostly of local use or +adaptation, and they are usually only modifications of the main types +here explained. It is impossible to describe all the variations in grape +training in a book of pocket size; neither is it necessary. Nearly +every grower who has given grape raising careful attention has +introduced into his own vineyard some modifications which he thinks are +of special value to him. There are various curious and instructive old +books to which the reader can go if he desires to know the history and +evolution of grape training in America. He will find that we have now +passed through the long and costly experiment with European systems. And +we have also outgrown the gross or long-wood styles, and now prune close +with the expectation of obtaining superior and definite results. + +I have not attempted to rely upon my own resources in the preparation of +this book. All the manuscript has been read by three persons--by George +C. Snow, Penn Yan, N. Y., William D. Barns, Middle Hope, N. Y., and L. +C. Corbett, my assistant in the Cornell Experiment Station. Mr. Snow is +a grower in the lake region of western New York, and employs the High +Renewal system; Mr. Barns is a grower in the Hudson River valley, and +practices the Kniffin system; while Mr. Corbett has been a student of +all the systems and has practiced two or three of them in commercial +plantations. These persons have made many suggestions of which I have +been glad to avail myself, and to them very much of the value of the +book is to be attributed. + + L. H. BAILEY, + + ITHACA, N. Y., _Feb. 1, 1893_. + + + + +John Adlum, of the District of Columbia, appears to have been the first +person to systematically undertake the cultivation and amelioration of +the native grapes. His method of training, as described in 1823, is as +follows: One shoot is allowed to grow the first year, and this is cut +back to two buds the first fall. The second year two shoots are allowed +to grow, and they are tied to "two stakes fixed down to the side of each +plant, about five or six feet high;" in the fall each cane is cut back +to three or four buds. In the third spring, these two short canes are +spread apart "so as to make an angle of about forty-five degrees with +the stem," and are tied to stakes; this season about two shoots are +allowed to grow from each branch, making four in all, and in the fall +the outside ones are cut back to three or four buds and the inner ones +to two. These outside shoots are to bear the fruit the fourth year, and +the inside ones give rise to renewal canes. These two outer canes or +branches are secured to two stakes set about sixteen inches upon either +side of the vine, and the shoots are tied up to the stakes, as they +grow. The renewal shoots from the inside stubs are tied to a third stake +set near the root of the vine. The outside branches are to be cut away +entirely at the end of the fourth year. This is an ingenious renewal +post system, and it is easy to see how the Horizontal Arm and High +Renewal systems may have sprung from it. + + + + +AMERICAN GRAPE TRAINING. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +INTRODUCTION--PRUNING. + + +Pruning and training the grape are perplexed questions, even to those +who have spent a lifetime in grape growing. The perplexity arises from +several diverse sources, as the early effort to transplant European +methods, the fact that many systems present almost equally good results +for particular purposes and varieties, and the failure to comprehend the +fundamental principles of the operations. + +It is sufficient condemnation of European methods when applied in +eastern America, to say that the American grapes are distinct species +from the European grapes, and that they are consequently different in +habit. This fact does not appear to have been apprehended clearly by the +early American grape-growers, even after the native varieties had begun +to gain prominence. American viticulture, aside from that upon the +Pacific slope which is concerned with the European grape, is an industry +of very recent development. It was little more than a century ago that +the first American variety gained favor, and so late as 1823 that the +first definite attempt was made, in Adlum's "Memoir on the Cultivation +of the Vine in America," to record the merits of native grapes for +purposes of cultivation. Even Adlum's book was largely given to a +discussion of European varieties and practices. In 1846 "Thomas' Fruit +Culturist" mentioned only six "American hardy varieties," and all of +these, save the Catawba, are practically not in cultivation at the +present time. The Concord appeared in 1853. American grape training is, +therefore, a very recent development, and we are only now outgrowing the +influence of the practices early imported from Europe. The first decided +epoch in the evolution of our grape training was the appearance of +Fuller's "Grape Culturist," in 1864; for while the system which he +depicted and which yet often bears his name, was but a modification of +some European methods and had been outlined by earlier American writers, +it was at that time placed clearly and cogently before the public and +became an accepted practice. The fundamental principles of pruning are +alike for both European and American grapes, but the details of pruning +and training must be greatly modified for different species. We must +understand at the outset that American species of grapes demand an +American system of treatment. + +The great diversity of opinion which exists amongst the best grape +growers concerning the advantages of different systems of training is +proof that many systems have merit, and that no one system is better +than others for all purposes. The grower must recognize the fact that +the most important factor in determining the merits of any system of +training is the habit of the vine--as its vigor, rate of growth, normal +size, relative size and abundance of leaves, and season and character of +fruit. Nearly every variety differs from others in habit in some +particular, and it therefore requires different treatment in some +important detail. Varieties may thrive equally well upon the same +general system of training, but require minor modifications; so it comes +that no hard and fast lines can be laid down, either for any system or +any variety. One system differs from another in some one main principle +or idea, but the modifications of all may meet and blend. If two men +practice the Kniffin system, therefore, this fact does not indicate that +they prune and train their vines exactly alike. It is impossible to +construct rules for grape training; it is, therefore, important that we +understand thoroughly the philosophy of pruning and training, both in +general and in the different systems which are now most popular. These +points we shall now consider. + + +PRUNING. + +Pruning and training are terms which are often confounded when speaking +of the grape, but they represent distinct operations. Pruning refers to +such removal of branches as shall insure better and larger fruit upon +the remaining portions. Training refers to the disposition of the +different parts of the vine. It is true that different methods of +training demand different styles of pruning, but the modification in +pruning is only such as shall adapt it to the external shape and size of +the vine, and does not in any way affect the principle upon which it +rests. Pruning is a necessity, and, in essence, there is but one method; +training is largely a convenience, and there are as many methods as +there are fancies among grape growers. + +[Illustration: 1. GRAPE SHOOT.] + +All intelligent pruning of the grape rests upon the fact that _the fruit +is borne in a few clusters near the base of the growing shoots of the +season, and which spring from wood of last year's growth_. It may be +said here that a growing, leafy branch of the grape vine is called a +_shoot_; a ripened shoot is called a _cane_; a branch or trunk two or +more years old is called an _arm_. Fig. 1 is a shoot as it appears in +the northern states in June. The whole shoot has grown within a month, +from a bud. As it grew, flower clusters appeared and these are to bear +the grapes. Flowering is now over, but the shoot will continue to grow, +perhaps to the length of ten or twenty feet. At picking time, therefore, +the grapes all hang near the lower end or base of the shoots or new +canes, as in fig. 2. Each bud upon the old cane, therefore, produces a +new cane, which may bear fruit as well as leaves. At the close of the +season, this long ripened shoot or cane has produced a bud every foot or +less, from which new fruit-bearing shoots are to spring next year. But +if all these buds were allowed to remain, the vine would be overtaxed +with fruit the coming year and the crop would be a failure. The cane is, +therefore, cut off until it bears only as many buds as experience has +taught us the vine should carry. The cane may be cut back to five or ten +buds, and perhaps some of these buds will be removed, or "rubbed off," +next spring if the young growth seems to be too thick, or if the plant +is weak. Each shoot will bear, on an average, two or three clusters. +Some shoots will bear no clusters. From one to six of the old canes, +each bearing from five to ten buds, are left each spring. The number of +clusters which a vine can carry well depends upon the variety, the age +and size of the vine, the style of the training, and the soil and +cultivation. Experience is the only guide. A strong vine of Concord, +which is a prolific variety, trained upon any of the ordinary systems +and set nine or ten feet apart each way, will usually carry from thirty +to sixty clusters. The clusters will weigh from a fourth to a half pound +each. Twelve or fifteen pounds of marketable grapes is a fair or average +crop for such a Concord vine, and twenty-five pounds is a very heavy +crop. + +[Illustration: 2. THE BEARING WOOD.] + +The pruning of the grape vine, therefore, is essentially a thinning +process. In the winter pruning, all the canes of the last season's +growth are cut away except from two to six, which are left to make the +fruit and wood of the next year; and each of these remaining canes is +headed back to from three to ten buds. The number and length of the +canes which are left after the pruning depend upon the style of training +which is practiced. A vine which may completely cover a trellis in the +fall, will be cut back so severely that a novice will fear that the +plant is ruined. But the operator bears in mind the fact that the grape, +unlike the apple, pear and peach, does not bear distinct fruit-buds in +the fall, but buds which produce both fruit and wood the following +season. + +[Illustration: 3. DIAGRAM.] + +Let us now suppose, therefore, that we have pruned our vine in the fall +of 1891 to two canes, each bearing ten buds. We will call these canes A +and B, respectively. (Fig. 3.) In 1892, therefore, twenty shoots grow +from them, and each of these shoots or new canes branches, or produces +laterals. We will call these new canes of 1892, A 1, A 2, A 3, B 1, B 2, +and so on. Each of the new canes bears at the base about two clusters of +grapes, giving a total yield of about forty clusters. These clusters +stand opposite the leaves, as seen in fig. 1. In the axil of each leaf a +bud is formed which will produce a cane, and perhaps fruit, in 1893. If +each of these new canes, A 1, A 2, etc., produce ten buds--which is a +moderate number--the vine would go into the winter of 1892-3 with 200 +buds for the next year's growth and crop; but these buds should be +reduced to about twenty, as they were in the fall of 1891. That is, +every year we go back again to the same number of buds, and the top of +the vine gets no larger from year to year. We must, therefore, cut back +again to two canes. We cut back each of the original canes, A and B, to +one new cane. That is, we leave only A 1 and B 1, cutting off A 2, A 3, +etc., and B 2, B 3, etc. This brings the vine back to very nearly its +condition in the fall of 1891; but the new canes, A 1 and B 1, which are +now to become the main canes by being bent down horizontally, were borne +at some distance--say three or four inches--from the base of the +original canes, A and B, so that the permanent part of the vine is +constantly lengthening itself. This annually lengthening portion is +called a _spur_. Spurs are rarely or never made in this exact position, +however, although this diagrammatic sketch illustrates clearly the +method of their formation. The common method of spurring is that +connected with the horizontal arm system of training, in which the canes +A and B are allowed to become permanent arms, and the upright canes, A +1, A 2, B 1, B 2, B 3, etc., are cut back to within two or three buds of +the arms each year. The cane A 1, for instance, is cut back in the fall +of 1892 to two or three buds, and in 1893 two or three canes will grow +from this stub. In the fall of 1893 only one cane is left after the +pruning, and this one is cut back to two or three buds; and so on. So +the spur grows higher every year, although every effort is made to keep +it short, both by reducing the number of buds to one or two and by +endeavoring to bring out a cane lower down on the spur every few years. +Fig. 4 shows a short spur of two years' standing. The horizontal portion +shows the permanent arm. The first upright portion is the remains of the +first-year cane and the upper portion is the second-year cane after it +is cut back in the fall. In this instance, the cane is cut back to one +fruiting bud, _b_, the small buds, _a a_, being rubbed out. There are +serious objections to spurs in any position. They become hard and +comparatively lifeless after a time, it is often difficult to replace +them by healthy fresh wood, and the bearing portion of the vine is +constantly receding from the main trunk. The bearing wood should spring +from near the central portions of the vine, or be kept "near the head," +as the grape-growers say. In order to do this, it is customary to allow +two canes to grow out each year back of the canes A 1 and B 1, or from +the head of the vine; these canes may be designated C and D. (Fig. 3.) +These canes, C and D, are grown during 1892--when they may bear fruit +like other canes--for the sole purpose of forming the basis of the +bearing top in 1893, while all the old top, A and B, with the secondary +canes, A 1, A 2, B 1, B 2, B 3, etc., is cut entirely away. Here, then, +are two distinct methods of forming the bearing top for the succeeding +year: either from _spurs_, which are the remains of the previous top; or +from _renewals_, which are taken each year from the old wood near the +head of the vine, or even from the ground. Renewals from the ground are +now little used, however, for they seldom give a sufficient crop unless +they are headed in the first fall and are allowed to bear the second +year. It should be borne in mind that the spur and renewal methods refer +entirely to pruning, not to training, for either one can be used in any +system of training. Spur pruning, however, is growing in disfavor +amongst commercial grape-growers, and the renewal is more or less used +in all systems of training. + +[Illustration: 4. SPUR.] + +Fig. 5 illustrates a renewal pruning. This engraving shows the head of a +vine seven years old, and upon which two canes are allowed to remain +after each annual pruning. The portion extending from _b_ to _f_ and _d_ +is the base of the bearing cane of 1892. In the winter of 1892-3, this +cane is cut off at _d_, and the new cane, _e_, is left to make the +bearing wood of 1893. Another cane sprung from _f_, but it was too weak +to leave for fruiting. It was, therefore, cut away. The old stub, _b_, +_f_, _d_, will be cut away a year hence, in the winter of 1893-4. In the +meantime, a renewal cane will have grown from the stub _c_, which is +left for that purpose, and the old cane, _b d_, will be cut off just +beyond it, between _c_ and _f_. In this way, the bearing wood is kept +close to the head of the vine. The wound _a_ shows where an old stub +was cut away this winter, 1892-3, while _b_ shows where one was cut off +the previous winter. A scar upon the back of the head, which does not +show in the illustration, marks the spot where a stub was cut away two +years ago, in the winter of 1890-1. This method of pruning can be kept +up almost indefinitely, and if care is exercised in keeping the stubs +short, the head will not enlarge out of proportion to the growth of the +stock or trunk. + +[Illustration: 5. RENEWAL PRUNING.] + + +_Pruning Young Vines._--The time required after planting to get the vine +onto the wires or trellis varies with the strength of the vine when set, +the variety, the soil and cultivation, and the system of training; but, +as a rule, the training begins the second or third year, previous to +which time the vine is pruned, not trained. Two-year-old vines are most +popular for planting, although in the strong varieties, like Concord and +Niagara, well-grown yearling vines are probably as good, if not better. +The strong-growing kinds are commonly set from eight to ten feet apart +in the row, and the rows eight or nine feet apart. Delawares and other +small vines may be set closer, although eight feet is preferable. When +set, the vine is cut back to two or three buds. During the first year, +the young canes are usually allowed to lie upon the ground at will, as +seen in fig. 6. In the fall or winter, all the canes but one are cut +off, and this one is cut back to two or three buds. The vine is, +therefore, no larger at the expiration of a year's growth than it was +when planted; but in the meantime the plant has become thoroughly +established in the soil, and the second year's growth should be strong +enough to form the basis for the permanent trunk or arm. If, however, +the second year's growth is weak, it may be cut back as before, and the +third season's growth used for the trunk. On the other hand, the growth +of the first year is sometimes carried onto the wires to form the +permanent trunk and arms, but it is only with extra strong vines in good +soil that this practice is admissible. From this point, the treatment +of the vine is discussed under training. + +[Illustration: 6. A NEWLY SET VINEYARD.] + + +_When to Prune._--Grape vines may be pruned at any time during the +winter. It is the practice among most grape-growers in the north to +prune as time permits from November to late in February, or even early +March. The sap flows very freely from cuts made in spring and early +summer, causing the phenomenon known as "bleeding," or in Europe as +"weeping," and in order to prevent this loss, pruning is stopped six +weeks or more before the time at which the buds usually swell. It is yet +a moot point if this bleeding injures the vine, but it is a safe +practice to prune early. The vine is cut off an inch or two beyond the +last bud which it is desired to leave, in order to avoid injury to the +bud from the drying out of the end of the cane. + +The pruning is done with small hand pruning-shears. The canes are often +allowed to remain tied to the wires until the pruning is accomplished, +although it is the practice with most growers who use the Kniffin system +to cut the strings before pruning. The removal of the severed canes is +known as "stripping." In large vineyards, the pruner sometimes leaves +the stripping to boys or other cheap labor. The stripping may be done at +any time after the pruning is performed until spring. It must be done +before the growth starts on the remaining portions of the vine, however, +to avoid injury to the young buds when tearing the vines off the +trellis. + + +_Summer Pruning._--There is much discussion as to the advisability of +summer pruning. It is essential to the understanding of the question +that the grower bear in mind that this summer pruning is of two +kinds--the removal or "breaking out" of the superfluous shoots, and +heading-in or "stopping" the main canes to keep them within limits. The +superfluous shoots are such as spring from small, weak buds or those +which break from the old arms or trunk of the vine. Shoots which start +from the very base of the old cane are usually weak and should be +removed. Buds in this position are shown at _a a_, in fig. 4. The +secondary or axillary branches, which often start from the base of the +season's shoots, should be removed or broken out. These superfluous +shoots are pulled off from time to time as they appear, or the buds may +be rubbed off before the shoots begin to grow. + +The heading-in of the main canes, while desirable for the purpose of +keeping the vine within bounds, is apt to cause a growth of laterals +which choke up the vine and which do not mature, and in those styles of +training in which very little wood is allowed to grow, the practice may +prevent the development of a sufficient amount of leaf surface to +properly sustain the vine. Vines are often weakened by summer pruning. +These dangers can be overcome by careful attention, however, especially +by heading-in very lightly and by doing it as late in the season as +possible, when new lateral growth does not start readily. The necessity +of much heading-in has been largely obviated in late years by the +adoption of high or drooping systems of training, and by setting the +vines far apart. The strong varieties, like Concord, Brighton and +Niagara, should be set ten feet apart in the row, especially if grown +upon the Kniffin system. Catawba, being a very upright grower and +especially well adapted to upright training, may be set eight feet +apart, and Delawares are often set as close as six or eight feet. It is +doubtful, however, if any variety should be set less than eight feet +apart for trellis culture. In Virginia and southward, where the growth +is large because of the long seasons, vines are often set more than ten +feet apart. In the South, the rows should run north and south, that the +fruit may be shaded from midday sun. The only summer heading-in now +generally recommended is the clipping of the tips when they fall over +and begin to touch the ground. This clipping is often done with a sickle +or sharp corn-cutter. + + +_Objects of Pruning._--The objects of pruning the grape, as of other +fruits, are five: + + 1. To produce larger and better fruit. + + 2. To maintain or augment the vigor of the vine. + + 3. To keep the vine within manageable limits. + + 4. To facilitate cultivation. + + 5. To facilitate spraying. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS FOR TRAINING--THE TRELLIS--TYING. + + +Training the grape vine is practiced for the purpose of keeping the vine +in convenient shape and to allow each cluster to receive its full amount +of space and light. A well trained vine is easily cultivated and +sprayed, and the grapes are readily harvested, and it is only upon such +vines that the best and fairest fruit is uniformly produced. Some kind +of training is essential, for a vine will not often bear good fruit when +it lies upon the ground. In essence, there are three general types or +styles of training, which may be designated as the upright, drooping and +horizontal, these terms designating the direction of the bearing shoots. +The upright systems carry two or more canes or arms along a low +horizontal wire, or sometimes obliquely across a trellis from below +upwards, and the shoots are tied up as they grow to the wires above. The +horizontal systems carry up a perpendicular cane or arm, or sometimes +two or more, from which the shoots are carried out horizontally and are +tied to perpendicular wires or posts. The drooping systems, represented +in the Kniffin and post-training, carry the canes or arms upon a high +horizontal wire or trellis and allow the shoots to hang without tying. +To one or another of these types all the systems of American +grape-training can be referred. + +There is no system of training which is best for all purposes and all +varieties. The strong-growing varieties more readily adapt themselves to +the high drooping systems than the weaker varieties, although the +Delaware is often trained on a comparatively low Kniffin with good +effect. The high or drooping systems are of comparatively recent date, +and their particular advantages are the saving of labor in summer tying, +cheapness of the trellis, and the facility with which the ground can be +cultivated without endangering the branches of the vine. The upright +training distributes the bearing wood more evenly upon the vine and is +thought, therefore, to insure more uniform fruit, it keeps the top near +the root, which is sometimes thought to be an advantage, and it is +better suited to the stature of the small-growing varieties. There is, +perhaps, a greater temptation to neglect the vines in the drooping +systems than in the others, because the shoots need no tying and do not, +therefore, demand frequent attention; while in the upright systems the +shoots soon become broken or displaced if not watched. For very large +areas, or circumstances in which the best of care cannot be given the +vineyard, the Kniffin or drooping systems are perhaps always to be +recommended. Yet the Kniffin profits as much from diligence and skill as +the other systems; but it will give better results than the others +under partial neglect. The strong varieties, especially those making +long and drooping canes, are well adapted to the Kniffin styles; but the +smaller sorts, and those stronger sorts which, like Catawba, make an +upright and stocky growth, are usually trained upon the upright systems. +But the merits of both systems are so various and even so little +understood, that it is impossible to recommend either one unqualifiedly. +The advantages in either case are often little more than matters of +personal opinion. It should be said, however, that the Kniffin or +drooping systems are gaining in favor rapidly, and are evidently +destined to overthrow much of the older upright training. This fact does +not indicate, however, that the upright system is to be entirety +superseded, but rather that it must be confined to those varieties and +conditions for which it is best adapted. The two systems will +undoubtedly supplement each other. The horizontal systems are +occasionally used for choice varieties, but they are little known. + + +_Making the Trellis._--The fall or winter following the planting of the +vineyard, the trellis is begun if the upright systems are used; but this +operation is usually delayed a year longer in the Kniffin systems, and +stakes are commonly used, or at least recommended, during the second +season. In the South the trellis is made the first year. The style of +trellis will depend upon the style of training, but the main features +are the same for all. Strong posts of some durable timber, as cedar, +locust or oak, are placed at such distance apart that two vines can be +set between each two. If the vines are set nine feet apart, the posts +maybe eighteen or twenty feet apart, and a vine will then stand four or +five feet from each post. If the posts in the row are eighteen feet +apart and the rows eight feet apart, about 330 posts will be required to +the acre. Except in very hard and stony lands, the posts are driven with +a heavy maul, although many people prefer to set the end posts in holes, +thinking that they endure the strain better. In all loose soils, +however, posts can be made as firm by driving as by setting with a +spade. All posts should be as firm as possible, in order to hold up the +heavy loads of vines and fruit. In setting posts on hillsides, it is a +common practice to lean them slightly uphill, for there is always a +tendency for the posts to tilt down the slope. For the Kniffin systems, +especially for the strong-growing grapes, the posts must stand six or +six and one-half feet high when set, but a foot less will usually be +sufficient for the upright and horizontal systems. The posts should +stand higher at first than is necessary for the support of the wires, +for they will need to be driven down occasionally as they become loose. +The end posts of each row should be well braced, as shown in several of +the illustrations in this volume. + +The wire ordinarily used is No. 12, except for the top wire in the +Kniffin training, which is usually No. 10, as the greater part of the +weight is then upon the top wire. No. 9 is sometimes used, but it is +heavier than necessary. No. 14 is occasionally used for the middle and +upper rows in the upright systems, but it is not strong enough. The +following figures show the sizes and weights of these and similar iron +and steel wires: + + No. Diameter in inches. Weight of 100 feet. Feet in 2,000 pounds. + + 9 .148 5.80 pounds. 34,483 + 10 .135 4.83 " 41,408 + 11 .120 3.82 " 52,356 + 12 .105 2.92 " 68,493 + 13 .092 2.24 " 89,286 + 14 .080 1.69 " 118,343 + 15 .072 1.37 " 145,985 + 16 .063 1.05 " 190,476 + +The plain annealed iron wire costs about 3 cents per pound, and the +galvanized--which is less used for vineyards--3-1/2 cents. Of No. 12 +wire, about 160 pounds is required per acre for a single run on rows +eight feet apart, and about 500 pounds for three runs. The cost of No. +12 wire per acre, for three runs, therefore, is about $15. + +The wire is secured to the intermediate posts by staples driven in +firmly so that the wire will not pull through readily of its own weight, +but still loosely enough to allow of the tightening of the wires. In +other words, the head of the staple should not quite touch the wire. +Grape staples are of three lengths, about an inch, inch and a quarter, +and an inch and a half respectively. The shortest length is little +used. The medium length is used for hard-wood posts and the longest for +soft posts, like chestnut and cedar. These staples cost five cents per +pound usually, and a pound of the medium length contains from 90 to 100 +of the No. 10 wire size. An acre, for three wires, will therefore +require, for this size, about nine or ten pounds of staples. In windy +regions, the wires should be placed upon the windward side of the posts. + +There are various devices for securing the wire to the end posts, but +the commonest method is to wind them about the post once and secure them +with a staple, or twist the end of the wire back upon itself, forming a +loop. The wires should be drawn taut to prevent sagging with the weight +of fruit and leaves. In order to allow for the contraction of the wires +in winter, some growers loosen the wires after harvest and others +provide some device which will relieve the strain. The Yeoman's Patent +Grape-Vine Trellis is a simple and effective lever-contrivance attached +to each wire, and which is operated to loosen the wires in fall and to +tighten them in spring. The end post is sometimes provided upon the back +with a square-headed pin which works tightly in an inch and a half augur +hole and about which the end of the wire is wound. A square-headed iron +wrench operates the pin, while the tension of the wire around the side +of the post keeps the pin from slipping. This device is not durable, +however. An ingenious man can easily contrive some device for relieving +the tension, if he should think it necessary. As a matter of practice, +however, the wires soon stretch and sag enough with the burden of fruit +and vines to take up the winter contraction, and most growers do not +release the wires in fall. It will be found necessary, in fact, to +tighten the wires and to straighten up the posts from year to year, as +they become loose. It is always a profitable labor to tamp the ground +firmly about all the posts every spring. The wires should always be kept +tight during the growing season to prevent the whipping of the vines by +wind. This is especially important in white grapes, which are discolored +by the rubbing of leaves and twigs. Unless the vines are very strong it +will be necessary to stretch only one wire the first winter. + +Trellises are often made of slats, as shown in Fig. 18, but these are +always less durable than the wire trellises and more expensive to keep +in repair; and in the older portions of the country, where timber is +dear, they are also more expensive at the outset. They catch the wind, +and, not being held together by continuous strands, are likely to blow +down in sections. Fuller particulars concerning the styles of trellis +are given in the discussions of the different systems of training. + + +_Tying._--Probably the best material for tying the canes and shoots to +the trellis is raffia. This is a bast-like material which comes in +skeins and which can be bought of seedsmen and nurserymen for about 20 +cents a pound. A pound will suffice to tie a quarter of an acre of +upright training throughout the season. Raffia is obtained from the +strippings of an oriental palm (_Raphia Ruffia_). Wool-twine is also +still largely used for tying, but it is not so cheap and handy as +raffia, and it usually has to be cut when the trellis is stripped at the +winter pruning, while the raffia breaks with a quick pull of the vine. +Some complain that the raffia is not strong enough to hold the vine +during the season, but it can easily be doubled. Osier willows are much +used for tying up the canes in the spring, and also for summer tying, +especially in the nursery regions where the slender trimmings of the +cultivated osier willows are easily procured. Wild willows are often +used if they can be obtained handily. These willows are tied up in a +small bundle, which is held upon the back above the hips by a cord +passed about the body. The butts project under the right hand, if the +person is right-handed, and the strands are pulled out as needed. The +butt is first used, the tie being made with a twist and tuck, the strand +is then cut off with a knife, and the twig is operated in like manner +until it is used up. When wool-twine is used, the ball is often held in +front of the workman by a cord which is tied about it and then passed +about the waist. The ball is unwound from the inside, and it will hold +its shape until the end becomes so short that it will easily drag upon +the ground. Some workmen carry the ball in a bag, after the manner of +carrying seed-corn. Raffia is not so easily carried in the field as the +wool-twine or the willow, and this fact interferes with its popularity. +Green rye-straw, cut directly from the field, is much used for tying the +shoots in summer. Small wire, about two-thirds the size of broom-wire, +is used occasionally for tying up the canes in spring, but it must be +used with care or it will injure the vine. Corn-husks are also employed +for this purpose when they can be secured. Bass-bark is sometimes used +for tying, but in most of the grape regions it is difficult to secure, +and it has no advantage over raffia. + +It is very important that the canes be tied up early in spring, for the +buds are easily broken after they begin to swell. These canes are tied +rather firmly to the wires to hold them steady; but the growing shoots, +which are tied during the summer, are fastened more loosely, to allow of +the necessary increase in diameter. + +[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes)] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE UPRIGHT SYSTEMS. + + +The upright systems are the oldest and best known of the styles of +American grape training. They consist, essentially, in carrying out two +horizontal canes, or sometimes arms, upon a low wire and training the +shoots from them vertically upwards. These shoots are tied to the upper +wires as they grow. This type was first clearly and forcibly described +in detail by A. S. Fuller, in his "Grape Culturist," in 1864, and it +became known as the Fuller system, although it was practiced many years +previous to this time. + + +_Horizontal Arm Spur System._--There are two types or styles of this +upright system. The older type and the one described in the books, is +known as the Horizontal Arm Spur training. In this method, the two +horizontal branches are permanent, or, in other words, they are true +arms. The canes are cut back each fall to upright spurs upon these arms, +as explained on page 15 (fig. 4.) Two shoots are often allowed to grow +from each of these spurs, as shown in fig. 7. These spurs become +overgrown and weak after a few years, and they are renewed from new +shoots which spring from near their base or from the arm itself. +Sometimes the whole arm is renewed from the head of the vine, or even +from the ground. + +[Illustration: 7. HORIZONTAL ARM SPUR TRAINING.] + +The number of these upright canes and their distance apart upon these +permanent arms depend upon the variety, the strength of the vine and +soil and the fancy of the grower. From twelve to twenty inches apart +upon the arm is the common distance. If a vine is strong enough to carry +five canes and the vines are eight feet apart, then the canes are +distributed at intervals of about twenty inches. Some very strong vines +of vigorous varieties will carry eight canes upon the two arms +together, and in this case the canes stand about a foot apart. In the +fall or winter, the cane is cut away and the strongest new cane which +springs from its base is left for the bearing wood of the following +year. This new cane is itself headed in to the height of the trellis; +that is, if the uppermost and lowermost wires are 34 inches apart--as +they are in the Brocton vineyards of western New York, where this system +is largely used--this new cane is shortened in to 34 inches long. Upon +this length of cane there will be about seven good buds in the common +varieties. + +[Illustration: 8. HORIZONTAL ARM. (Diagram.)] + +A modification of this horizontal arm system is shown in fig. 9. It is +used about Forestville, in Chautauqua county, New York. The arms in this +case are very short, and canes are taken out only at two or three +places. The picture shows a vine in which two canes are taken from the +end of each arm, making four canes for the bearing top of the vine. +These canes are cut back to spurs in the fall, as explained in the above +paragraph. Sometimes one or two other canes are taken out of these arms +nearer the main trunk. The advantages urged for this style of training +are the stronger growth which is insured by so few canes, and the small +amount of old or permanent wood which is left to each vine. + +[Illustration: 9. SHORT ARM SPUR TRAINING.] + +The horizontal arm training is less popular than it was twenty years +ago. It has serious faults, especially in the persistence of the old +spurs, and probably will eventually give place to other systems. Aside +from the spur pruning, the system is much like the following, which is a +modification to allow of a renewal pruning and to which the reader is +referred for further details. This modification, which may be called the +High Renewal, and which is one of the most serviceable of any of the +styles of training, although it has never been fully described, we shall +now consider. + + +_The High Renewal_, or upright training which is now very extensively +employed in the lake regions of New York and elsewhere, starts the head +or branches of the vine from eighteen to thirty inches from the ground. +The ideal height for most varieties is probably about two feet to the +first wire, although thirty inches is better than eighteen. If the vines +are lower than two feet, they are liable to be injured by the plow or +cultivator, the earth is dashed against the clusters by heavy rains, and +if the shoots become loose they strike the ground and the grapes are +soon soiled. A single trunk or arm is carried up to the required height, +or if good branches happen to form lower down, two main canes are +carried from this point up to the required distance to meet the lower +wire, so that the trunk becomes Y-shaped, as seen in figs. 10, 16 and +17. In fact, vineyardists usually prefer to have this head or crotch a +few inches below the lowest wire, to facilitate the spreading and +placing of the canes. The trellis for the upright systems nearly always +comprises three wires, although only two are sometimes used for the +smaller growing varieties, and very rarely four are used for the +strongest kinds, although this number is unnecessary. The lowest wire is +stretched at eighteen, twenty-four or thirty inches from the ground, and +the two upper ones are placed at distances of eighteen or twenty inches +apart. + +[Illustration: 10. THE SECOND SEASON OF UPRIGHT TRAINING.] + +[Illustration: 11. MAKING THE T-HEAD.] + +The second season after planting should see the vine tied to the first +wire. Fig. 10 is a photograph taken in July, 1892, of a Concord vine +which was set in the spring of 1891. In the fall of 1891 the vine was +cut back to three or four buds, and in the spring of 1892 two of these +buds were allowed to make canes. These two canes are now tied to the +wire, which was stretched in the spring of 1892. In this case, the +branches start near the surface of the ground. Sometimes only a single +strong shoot grows, and in order to secure the two branches it is broken +over where it passes the wire, and is usually tied to a stake to afford +support. Fig. 11 shows this operation. A bud will develop at the bend or +break, from which a cane can be trained in the opposite direction from +the original portion, and the T-head is secured. + +[Illustration: 12. THE THIRD SEASON OF HIGH RENEWAL.--CONCORD.] + +[Illustration: 13. HIGH RENEWAL, BEFORE PRUNING.--CATAWBA.] + +The close of the second season after planting, therefore, will usually +find the vine with two good canes extending in opposite directions and +tied to the wire. The pruning at that time will consist in cutting off +the ends of these canes back to firm and strong wood, which will leave +them bearing from five to eight buds. The third season, shoots will grow +upright from these buds and will be tied to the second wire, which has +now been supplied. Late in the third season the vine should have much +the appearance of that shown in fig. 12. The third wire is usually added +to the trellis at the close of the second season, at the same time that +the second wire is put on; but occasionally this is delayed until the +close of the third season. Some of the upright shoots may bear a few +grapes this third season, but unless the vines are very strong the +flower clusters should be removed; and a three-year-old vine should +never be allowed to bear heavily. It must be remembered, however, that +both these horizontal canes, with all their mass of herbage, are to be +cut away in the fall or winter of the third year. Some provision must +have been made, therefore, for the top for the fourth year. It will be +recalled that in discussing the renewal pruning (page 16, fig. 5), it +was found that two or more shoots are allowed to grow each year to form +the basis of the top the following year. In fig. 12 three or four such +shoots can be seen springing from the Y-shaped portion in the center of +the vine. These shoots or canes are to be bent down to the lowest wire +next spring, and the bearing shoots will arise from them. This process +will be seen at a glance from figs. 13, 14 and 15. The first shows a +full grown old vine, trained on three wires. Fig. 14 shows the same vine +when pruned. Two long canes, with six or eight buds each, are left to +form the top of the following year. The two stubs from which the renewal +canes are to grow for the second year's top are seen in the center. In +the fall of the next year, therefore, these two outside canes will be +cut away to the base of these renewal stubs; and the renewal canes, in +the meantime, will have made a year's growth. These renewal stubs in +this picture are really spurs, as will be seen; that is, they contain +two ages of wood. It is the purpose, however, to remove these stubs or +spurs every two or three years at most, and to bring new canes +directly from the old wood or head. If possible, the renewal cane is +brought from a new place on the old wood every year in order to avoid a +spur. Such was the case in the vine shown in fig. 5, page 19. Fig. 15 +shows the same vine tied down to the lowest wire. Two ties have been +made upon each cane. Fig. 16 shows a vine in which four canes have been +left to form the top for the following year. The stubs for the renewals +can be seen in the Y. It is customary to leave more than two canes, +occasionally, in strong-growing varieties like Concord. Sometimes four +and occasionally six are left. If four canes are left, two may be tied +together in each direction upon the bottom wire. If six are used, the +two extra ones should be tied along the second wire, parallel with the +lowest ones. These extra canes are sometimes tied obliquely across the +trellis, but this practice should be discouraged, for the usual tendency +of the vine is to make its greatest growth at the top, and the lower +buds may fail to bear. + +[Illustration: 14. HIGH RENEWAL, PRUNED.] + +[Illustration: 15. HIGH RENEWAL, PRUNED AND TIED.] + +The ideal length of the two canes varies with different varieties and +the distance apart at which the vines are set. Very strong kinds, like +Concord and Niagara, can carry ten or twelve buds on each cane, +especially if the vines are set more than eight feet apart. Fig. 17 +shows half of a Concord vine in which about ten buds were left on each +cane. These strong sorts can often carry forty or fifty buds to the vine +to advantage, but when this number is left the canes should be four, as +explained in the last paragraph. In Delaware and other weak-growing +varieties, twenty or twenty-five buds to the vine should be the maximum +and only two canes should be left. In short-jointed varieties, the canes +are usually cut to the desired length--four to six feet--even if too +great a number of buds is left, but the shoots which spring from these +extra buds are broken out soon after they start. A Delaware vine which +has made an unusually short or weak growth will require fewer buds to be +left for next year's top than a neighboring vine of the same variety +which has made a strong growth. The Catawba, which is a short but very +stiff grower, is usually cut back to six or eight buds, as seen in figs. +13, 14 and 15. The grower soon learns to adjust the pruning to the +character of the vine without effort. He has in his mind a certain ideal +crop of grapes, perhaps about so many bunches, and he leaves enough buds +to produce this amount, allowing, perhaps, ten per cent. of the buds for +accidents and barren shoots. He knows, too, that the canes should always +be cut back to firm, well-ripened wood. It should be said that mere +size of cane does not indicate its value as a fruit-bearing branch. +Hard, smooth wood of medium size usually gives better results than the +very large and softer canes which are sometimes produced on soils rich +in nitrogenous manures. This large and overgrown wood is known as a +"bull cane." A cane does not attain its full growth the first year, but +will increase in diameter during the second season. The tying therefore, +should be sufficiently loose or elastic to allow of growth, although it +should be firm enough to hold the cane constantly in place. The cane +should not be hung from the wire, but tied close to it, provision being +made for the swelling of the wood to twice its diameter. + +[Illustration: 16. HIGH RENEWAL WITH FOUR CANES.] + +[Illustration: 17. HIGH RENEWAL COMPLETE.--CONCORD.] + +The shoots are tied to the second wire soon after they pass it, or have +attained firmness enough to allow of tying, and the same shoots are tied +again to the top wire. All the shoots do not grow with equal rapidity, +and the vineyard must be gone over more than twice if the shoots are +kept properly tied. Perhaps four times over the vineyard will be all +that is necessary for careful summer tying. Many vineyardists tie only +once or twice, but this neglect should be discouraged. This tying is +mostly done with green rye straw or raffia. A piece of straw about ten +inches long is used for each tie, it usually being wrapped but once +about the shoot. The knot is made with a twist and tuck. If raffia is +used, a common string-knot is made. When the shoots reach the top of +the trellis, they are usually allowed to take care of themselves. The +Catawba shoots stand nearly erect above the top wire and ordinarily need +no attention. The long-growing varieties will be likely to drag the +shoots upon the ground before the close of the season. If these tips +interfere with the cultivation, they may be clipped off with a sickle or +corn-cutter, although this practice should be delayed as long as +possible to prevent the growth of laterals (see page 21). It is probably +better to avoid cutting entirely. Some growers wind or tie the longest +shoots upon the top wire, as seen in fig. 17. It is probably best, as a +rule, to allow the shoots to hang over naturally, and to clip them only +when they seriously interfere with the work of the hoe and cultivator. +The treatment for slat trellises, as shown in fig. 18, is the same as on +wire trellises, except that longer strings must be used in tying. + +[Illustration: 18. A SLAT TRELLIS, WITH UPRIGHT TRAINING.] + +It is apparent that nearly or quite all the fruit in the High Renewal is +borne between the first and second wires, at the bottom of the trellis. +If the lower wire is twenty-four or thirty inches high, this fruit will +hang at the most convenient height for picking. The fruit trays are set +upon the ground, and both hands are free. The fruit is also protected +from the hot suns and from frost; and if the shoots are properly tied, +the clusters are not shaken roughly by the wind. It is, of course, +desirable that all the clusters should be fully exposed to light and +air, and all superfluous shoots should, therefore, be pulled off, as +already explained (page 21). In rare cases it may also be necessary, for +this purpose, to prune the canes which droop over from the top of the +trellis. + +After a few years, the old top or head of the vine becomes more or less +weak and it should be renewed from the root. The thrifty vineyardist +anticipates this circumstance, and now and then allows a thrifty shoot +which may spring from the ground to remain. This shoot is treated very +much like a young vine, and the head is formed during the second year +(page 16, bottom). If it should make a strong growth during the first +year and develop stout laterals, it may be cut back only to the lowest +wire the first fall; but in other cases, it should be cut back to two or +three buds, from one of which a strong and permanent shoot is taken the +second year. When this new top comes into bearing, the old trunk is cut +off at the surface of the ground, or below if possible. A top will +retain its vigor for six or eight years under ordinary treatment, and +sometimes much longer. These tops are renewed from time to time as +occasion permits or demands, and any vineyard which has been bearing a +number of years will nearly always have a few vines in process of +renewal. The reader should not receive the impression, however, that the +life or vitality of a vine is necessarily limited. Vines often continue +to bear for twenty years or more without renewal; but the head after a +time comes to be large and rough and crooked, and often weakened by +scars, and better results are likely to be obtained if a new, clean vine +takes its place. + +The High Renewal is extensively used in the lake region of Western New +York, for all varieties. It is particularly well adapted to Delaware, +Catawba, and other weak or short varieties. When systematically pursued, +it gives fruit of the highest excellence. This High Renewal training, +like all the low upright systems, allows the vines to be laid down +easily in winter, which is an important consideration in many parts of +Canada and in the colder northern states. + + +_Fan Training._--A system much used a few years ago and still sometimes +seen, is one which renews back nearly to the ground each year, and +carries the fruiting canes up in a fan-shaped manner. This system has +the advantages of dispensing with much of the old wood, or trunk, and +facilitating laying down the vine in winter in cold climates. On the +other hand, it has the disadvantages of bearing the fruit too +low--unless the lower clusters are removed--and making a vine of +inconvenient shape for tying. It is little used at present. Fig. 19 +shows a vine pruned for fan-training, although it is by no means an +ideal vine. This vine has not been properly renewed, but bears long, +crooked spurs, from which the canes spring. One of these spurs will be +seen to extend beyond the lower wire. The spurs should be kept very +short, and they should be entirely removed every two or three years, as +explained in the above discussion of the High Renewal training. + +The shoots are allowed to take their natural course, being tied to any +wire near which they chance to grow, finally lopping over the top wire. +Sometimes the canes are bent down and tied horizontally to the wires, +and this is probably the better practice. Two canes may be tied in each +direction on the lower wire, or the two inner canes may be tied down to +the second wire. In either case, the vine is essentially like the High +Renewal, except that the trunk is shorter. + +[Illustration: 19. FAN TRAINING, AFTER PRUNING.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE DROOPING SYSTEMS. + + +In 1845 William T. Cornell planted a vineyard in the Hudson River +Valley. A neighbor, William Kniffin, was a stone mason with a few acres +of land to which he devoted his attention during the leisure seasons of +his trade. Cornell induced Kniffin to plant a few grapes. He planted the +Isabella, and succeeding beyond his expectations, the plantation was +increased into a respectable vineyard and Kniffin came to be regarded as +a local authority upon grape culture. Those were the pioneer days in +commercial grape growing in North America, and there were no undisputed +maxims of cultivation and training. If any system of close training and +pruning was employed, it was probably the old horizontal arm spur +system, or something like it. One day a large limb broke from an +apple-tree and fell upon a grape-vine, tearing off some of the canes and +crushing the vine into a singular shape. The vine was thought to be +ruined, but it was left until the fruit could be gathered. But as the +fruit matured, its large size and handsome appearance attracted +attention. It was the best fruit in the vineyard! Mr. Kniffin was an +observant man, and he inquired into the cause of the excellent fruit. +He noticed that the vine had been pruned and that the best canes stood +out horizontally. From this suggestion he developed the four-cane system +of training which now bears his name. A year or two later, in 1854, the +system had attracted the attention of those of his neighbors who +cultivated grapes, and thereafter it spread throughout the Hudson +valley, where it is to-day, with various modifications, the chief method +of grape training. Its merits have become known beyond its original +valley, and it is now spreading more rapidly than any other system. The +ground upon which the old Isabellas grew is now occupied by Concords, +which are as vigorous and productive as those grown upon newer soils. +William Kniffin died at his home in Clintondale, Ulster county, New +York, June 13, 1876, at fifty-seven years of age. The portrait is from a +photograph which was taken two or three years before his death. + +[Illustration: 20. WILLIAM KNIFFIN.] + + +_The True or Four-Cane Kniffin System._--Figure 21 shows the true +Kniffin system, very nearly as practiced by its originator. A single +stem or trunk is carried directly to the top wire, and two canes are +taken out from side spurs at each wire. Mr. Kniffin believed in short +canes, and cut them back to about six buds on both wires. But most +growers now prefer to leave the upper canes longer than the lower ones, +as seen in illustration. The bearing shoots are allowed to hang at will, +so that no summer tying is necessary; this is the distinguishing mark of +the various Kniffin systems. The main trunk is tied to each wire, and +the canes are tied to the wires in spring. This system possesses the +great advantage, therefore, of requiring little labor during the busy +days of the growing season; and the vines are easily cultivated, and if +the rows are nine or ten feet apart, currants or other bush-fruits can +be grown between. The system is especially adapted to the strong +varieties of grapes. For further comparisons of the merits of different +systems of training, the reader should consult Chapter II. + +[Illustration: 21. THE TRUE KNIFFIN TRAINING.] + +[Illustration: 22. NO. 21 WHEN PRUNED.] + +The pruning of the Kniffin vine consists in cutting off all the wood +save a single cane from each spur. Fig. 22 illustrates the process. This +is the same vine which is shown with the full amount of wood on in fig. +21. The drooping shoots shown in that illustration bore the grapes of +1892; and now, in the winter of 1892-93, they are all to be cut away, +with the horizontal old canes from which they grew, save only the four +canes which hang nearest the main trunk. Fig. 22 shows the vine after it +had been pruned. It is not obligatory that the canes which are left +after the pruning should be those nearest the trunk, for it may happen +that these may be weak; but, other things being equal, these canes are +preferable because their selection keeps the old spurs short. The +careful grower will take pains to remove the weak shoots which start +from this point, in order that a strong cane may be obtained. It is +desirable that these side spurs be removed entirely every three or four +years, a new cane being brought out again from the main body or trunk. +There is little expectation, however, that there shall be such a +complete renewal pruning as that practiced in the High Renewal, which we +discussed in the last chapter. + +It will be seen that the drooping canes in fig. 22 are shorter than they +were originally, as shown in fig. 21. They have been cut back. The +length at which these canes shall be left is a moot point. Much depends +upon the variety, the distance between the wires, the strength of the +soil, and other factors. Nearly all growers now agree that the upper +canes should be longer than the lower ones, although equal canes are +still used in some places. In strong varieties, like Worden, each of the +upper canes may bear ten buds and each of the lower ones five. This +gives thirty buds to the vine. Some growers prefer to leave twelve buds +above and only four below. + +These four pruned canes are generally allowed to hang during winter, but +are tied onto the wires before the buds swell in spring. They are +stretched out horizontally and secured to the wire by one or two ties +upon each cane. The shoots which spring from these horizontal canes +stand upright or oblique at first but they soon fall over with the +weight of foliage and fruit. If they touch the ground, the ends may be +clipped off with a sickle, corn-cutter or scythe, although this is not +always done, and is not necessary unless the canes interfere with +cultivation. There is no summer-pinching nor pruning, although the +superfluous shoots should be broken out, as in other systems. (See page +23). + +Only two wires are used in the true Kniffin trellis. The end posts are +usually set in holes, rather than driven, to render them solid, and they +should always be well braced. The intermediate posts are driven, and +they usually stand between every alternate vine, or twenty feet apart if +the vines are ten feet apart--which is a common distance for the most +vigorous varieties. For the strong-growing varieties, the top wire is +placed from five and one-half to six feet above the ground. Five feet +nine inches is a popular height. The posts will heave sufficiently to +bring the height to six feet, although it is best to "tap" the posts +every spring with a maul in order to drive them back and make them firm. +The lower wire is usually placed at three and one-half feet. Delawares, +if trained Kniffin, should not stand above five feet four inches, or at +most five feet six inches. Strong vines on good soil are often put onto +the trellis the second year, although it is a commoner practice, +perhaps, to stake them the second season, as already explained (page +27), and put them on the wires the third season. The year following the +tying to the trellis, the vine should bear a partial crop. The vine is +usually carried directly to the top wire the first season of training, +although it is the practice of some growers, especially outside the +Hudson valley, to stop the trunk at the lower wire the first year of +permanent training, and to carry it to the top wire the following year. + +Yields from good Kniffin vines will average fully as high and perhaps +higher than from other species of training. W. D. Barns, of Orange +county, New York, has had an annual average of twenty-six pounds of +Concords to the vine for nine years, 1,550 vines being considered in the +calculation. While the Delaware is not so well suited to the Kniffin +system as stronger varieties, it can nevertheless be trained in this +manner with success, as the following average yields obtained by Mr. +Barns from 200 vines set in 1881 will show: + + 1886 8-1/2 pounds to the vine. + 1887 11-3/4 " " " " + 1888 8 " " " " + 1889 9-1/2 " " " " + 1890 7 " " " " + 1891 16 " " " " + 1892 13 " " " " + + +_Modifications of the Four-Cane Kniffin._--Various modifications of this +original four-cane Kniffin are in use. The Kniffin idea is often +carelessly applied to a rack trellis. In such cases, several canes were +allowed to grow where only two should have been left. Fig. 23 is a +common but poor style of Kniffin used in some of the large new +vineyards of western New York. It differs from the type in the training +of the young wood. These shoots, instead of being allowed to hang at +will, are carried out horizontally and either tied to the wire or +twisted around it. The advantage urged for this modification is the +little injury done by wind, but, as a matter of practice, it affords +less protection than the true drooping Kniffin, for in the latter the +shoots from the upper cane soon cling to the lower wire, and the shoots +from both tiers of canes protect each other below the lower wire. There +are three serious disadvantages to this holding up of the shoots,--it +makes unnecessary labor, the canes are likely to make wood or "bull +canes" (see page 50) at the expense of fruit, and the fruit is bunched +together on the vines. + +[Illustration: 23. A POOR TYPE OF KNIFFIN.] + +Another common modification of the four-cane Kniffin is that shown in +fig. 24, in which a crotch or Y is made in the trunk. This crotch is +used in the belief that the necessary sap supply is thereby more readily +deflected into the lower arms than by the system of side spurring on a +straight or continuous trunk. This is probably a fallacy, and may have +arisen from the attempt to grow as heavy canes on the lower wire as on +the upper one. Nevertheless, this modification is in common use in +western New York and elsewhere. + +[Illustration: 24. THE Y-TRUNK KNIFFIN.] + +If it is desired to leave an equal number of buds on both wires, the +Double Kniffin will probably be found most satisfactory. Two distinct +trunks are brought from the root, each supplying a single wire only. The +trunks are tied together to hold them in place. This system, under the +name of Improved Kniffin, is just coming into notice in restricted +portions of the Hudson valley. + + +_The Two-Cane Kniffin, or Umbrella System._--Inasmuch as the greater +part of the fruit in the Four-Cane Kniffin is born upon the upper wire, +the question arises if it would not be better to dispense with the +lower canes and cut the upper ones longer. This is now done to a +considerable extent, especially in the Hudson valley. Fig. 25 explains +the operation. This shows a pruned vine. The trunk is tied to the lower +wire to steady it, and two canes, each bearing from nine to fifteen +buds, are left upon the upper wire. These canes are tied to the upper +wire and they are then bent down, hoop-like, to the lower wire, where +the ends are tied. In some instances, the lower wire is dispensed with, +but this is not advisable. This wire holds the vine in place against the +winds and prevents the too violent whipping of the hanging shoots. +During the growing season, renewal canes are taken from the spurs in +exactly the same manner as in the ordinary Kniffin. This species of +training reduces the amount of leaf-surface to a minimum, and every +precaution must be taken to insure a healthy leaf-growth. This system +of training will probably not allow of the successful girdling of the +vine for the purpose of hastening the maturity and augmenting the size +of the fruit. Yet heavy crops can be obtained from it, if liberal +fertilizing and good cultivation are employed, and the fruit is nearly +always first-class. A Concord vine trained in this manner produced in +1892 eighty clusters of first quality grapes, weighing forty pounds. + +[Illustration: 25. UMBRELLA TRAINING.] + +Another type of Umbrella training is shown in fig. 26, before pruning. +Here five main canes were allowed to grow, instead of two. Except in +very strong vines, this top is too heavy, and it is probably never so +good as the other (fig. 25), if the highest results are desired; but for +the grower who does not care to insure high cultivation it is probably a +safer system than the other. + +[Illustration: 26. A POOR UMBRELLA SYSTEM.] + + +_The Low, or One-Wire Kniffin._--A modification of this Umbrella system +is sometimes used, in which the trellis is only three or four feet high +and comprises but a single wire. A cane of ten or a dozen buds is tied +out in each direction, and the shoots are allowed to hang in essentially +the same manner as in the True or High Kniffin system. The advantages +urged for this system are the protection of the grapes from wind, the +large size of the fruit due to the small amount of bearing wood, the +ease of laying down the vines, the readiness with which the top can be +renewed from the root as occasion demands, and the cheapness of the +trellis. + + +_The Six-Cane Kniffin._--There are many old vineyards in eastern New +York which are trained upon a six-cane or three-wire system. The general +pruning and management of these vines do not differ from that of the +common Kniffin. Very strong varieties which can carry an abundance of +wood, may be profitable upon this style of training, but it cannot be +recommended. A Concord vineyard over thirty years old, comprising 295 +vines, trained in this fashion, is still thrifty and productive. Twice +it has produced crops of six tons. + +[Illustration: 27. EIGHT-CANE KNIFFIN. (Diagram.)] + + +_Eight-Cane Kniffin._--Eight and even ten canes are sometimes left upon +a single trunk, and are trained out horizontally or somewhat obliquely, +as shown in the accompanying diagram (fig. 27). Unless these canes are +cut back to four or five buds each, the vine carries too much wood and +fruit. This system allows of close planting, but the trellis is too +expensive. The trunk soon becomes overgrown with spurs, and it is likely +to become prematurely weak. This style is very rarely used. + +[Illustration: 28. OVERHEAD KNIFFIN.] + +[Illustration: 29. OVERHEAD KNIFFIN.] + + +_Overhead, or Arbor Kniffin._--A curious modification of the Kniffin is +employed somewhat on the Hudson, particularly by Sands Haviland at +Marlboro'. The vines are carried up on a kind of overhead arbor, as +shown in figs. 28, 29 and 30. The trellis is six feet above the ground, +and is composed of three horizontal wires lying in the same plane. The +central wire runs from post to post, and one upon either side is +attached to the end of a three-foot cross-bar, as represented in fig. +28. The rows are nine feet apart, and the vines and posts twelve feet +apart in the row. Contiguous rows are braced by a connecting-pole, as in +fig. 29. The trunk of the vine ends in a T-shaped head, which is well +displayed in the vine at the extreme right in the foreground in fig. 30. +From this T-head, five canes are carried out from spurs. It was formerly +the practice to carry out six canes, one in each direction upon each +wire, but this was found to supply too much wood. Now two canes are +carried in one direction and three in the other; and the positions of +these sets are alternated each year, if possible. The canes which are +left after the winter pruning are tied along the wires in spring, as in +the Kniffin, and the shoots hang over the wires. The chief advantage of +this training is that it allows of the growing of bush-fruits between +the rows, as seen in fig. 29. It is also said that the clusters hang so +free that the bloom is not injured by the twigs or leaves, and the fruit +is protected from sun and frost. Every post must be large and firmly +set, however, adding much to the cost of the trellis. Several styles +similar to this are in use, one of the best being the Crittenden system, +of Michigan. In this system, the trellis is low, not exceeding four or +five feet, and the vines cover a flat-topped platform two or three feet +wide. + +[Illustration: 30. OVERHEAD KNIFFIN, BEFORE PRUNING.] + + +_The Cross-Wire System._--Another high Kniffin training, and which is +also confined to the vicinity of Marlboro', New York, is the Cross-Wire, +represented in figs. 31 and 32. Small posts are set eight feet apart +each way, and a single wire runs from the top of post to post--six and +one-half feet from the ground--in each direction, forming a check-row +system of overhead wires. The grape-vine is set at the foot of the +stake, to which the trunk is tied for support. Four canes are taken from +spurs on the head of the trunk, one for each of the radiating wires. +These canes are cut to three and one-half or four feet in length, and +the bearing shoots droop as they grow. Fig. 31 shows this training as it +appears some time after the leaves start in spring. Later in the season +the whole vineyard becomes a great arbor, and a person standing at a +distance sees an almost impenetrable mass of herbage, as in fig. 32. +This system appears to have little merit, and will always remain local +in application. It possesses the advantage of economy in construction of +the trellis, for very slender posts are used, even at the ends of the +rows. The end posts are either braced by a pole or anchored by a wire +taken from the top and secured to a stake or stone eight or ten feet +beyond, outside the vineyard. + +[Illustration: 31. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING.] + +[Illustration: 32. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING. OUTSIDE VIEW.] + + +_Renewal Kniffin._--It is an easy matter to adapt the Kniffin principle +of free hanging shoots to a true renewal method of pruning. There are a +few modifications in use in which the wood is annually renewed to near +the ground. The trellises comprise either two or three wires, and are +made in the same manner as for the upright systems, as the High Renewal. +At the annual pruning only one cane is left. This comprises twelve or +fifteen buds, and is tied up diagonally across the trellis, the point or +end of the cane usually being bent downward somewhat, in order to check +the strong growth from the uppermost parts. The shoots hang from this +cane, and they may be pinched back when they reach the ground. In the +meantime a strong shoot is taken out from the opposite side of the +head--which usually stands a foot or less from the ground--to make the +bearing wood of the next year; and this new cane will be tied in an +opposite direction on the trellis from the present bearing cane, and the +next renewal shoot will be taken from the other side of the head, or the +side from which the present bearing wood sprung; so that the bearing top +of the vine is alternated in either direction upon the trellis. This +system, and similar ones, allow of laying down the vines easily in +winter, and insure excellent fruit because the amount of bearing wood +is small; but the crop is not large enough to satisfy most demands. + + +_The Munson System._--An unique system of training, upon the Kniffin +principle, has been devised by T. V. Munson, of Denison, Texas, a +well-known authority upon grapes. Two posts are set in the same hole, +their tops diverging. A wire is stretched along the top of these posts +and a third one is hung between them on cross-wires. The trunk of the +vine, or its head, is secured to this middle lower wire and the shoots +lop over the side wires. The growth, therefore, makes a V-shaped or +trough-like mass of herbage. Fig. 33 is an end view of this trellis, +showing the short wire connecting the posts and which also holds the +middle trellis-wire at the point of the V. Fig. 34 is a side view of the +trellis. The bearing canes, two or four, in number, which are left after +the annual pruning, are tied along this middle wire. The main trunk +forks just under the middle wire, as seen at the left in fig. 34. A head +is formed at this place not unlike like that which characterizes the +High Renewal, for this system also employs renewal pruning. The trellis +stands six feet high. The shoots stand upright at first, but soon fall +down and are supported by the side wires. The following account of this +system of training is written for this occasion by Mr. Munson: + +"After the vines have flowered, the bearing laterals have their tips +pinched off, and that is all the summer pruning the vine gets, except to +rub off all eyes that start on the body below the crotch. Two to four +shoots, according to strength of vine, are started from the forks or +crotch and allowed to bear no fruit, but are trained along over the +lower central wire for renewal canes. When pruning time arrives, the +entire bearing cane of the present year, with all its laterals, is cut +away at a point near where the young renewal shoots have started, and +these shoots are shortened back, according to strength of vine; some, +such as Herbemont, being able at four years to fill four shoots six or +eight feet long with fine fruit, while Delaware could not well carry +over three or four feet each way of one shoot only. The different +varieties are set at various distances apart, according as they are +strong or weak growers. + +[Illustration: 33. MUNSON TRAINING. END VIEW.] + +"Thus the trellis and system of pruning are reduced to the simplest +form. A few cuts to each vine cover all the pruning, and a few ties +complete the task. A novice can soon learn to do the work well. The +trunk or main stem is secured to the middle lower wire, along which all +bearing canes are tied after pruning, and from which the young laterals +which produce the crop are to spring. These laterals strike the two +outer wires, soon clinging to them with their tendrils, and are safe +from destruction, while the fruit is thrown in the best possible +position for spraying and gathering, and is still shaded with the canopy +of leaves. I have now used this trellis five years upon ten acres of +mixed vines, and I am more pleased with it every year. + +[Illustration: 34. MUNSON TRAINING. SIDE VIEW.] + +"The following advantages are secured by this system: + +"1. The natural habit of the vine is maintained, which is a canopy to +shade the roots and body of vine and the fruit, without smothering. + +"2. New wood, formed by sap which has never passed through bearing wood, +is secured for the next crop--a very important matter. + +"3. Simplicity and convenience of trellis, allowing free passage in any +direction through the vineyard; circulation of air without danger of +breaking tender shoots; ease of pruning, spraying, cultivation, +harvesting. + +"4. Perfect control in pruning of amount of crop to suit capacity of +vine. + +"5. Long canes for bearing, which agrees exactly with the nature of +nearly all our American species far better than short spurs. + +"6. Ease of laying down in winter. The vine being pruned and not tied, +standing away from posts, can be bent down to one side between the rows, +and earth thrown upon it, and can be quickly raised and tied in +position. + +"7. Cheapness of construction and ease of removing trellis material and +using it again. + +"8. Durability of both trellis and vineyard." + +[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes)] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +MISCELLANEOUS SYSTEMS. + + +_Horizontal Training._--There are very few types of horizontal shoot +training now in use. The best is probably that shown in fig. 35. This +particular vine is a Delaware, to which this training is well adapted. +It will be noticed that this picture represents the end of a trellis, +and the diagonal stick seen near the ground is a brace for the end post. +Two wires run from post to post, one about two and one-half feet above +the ground and the other five and one-half feet high. The posts are set +at the ordinary distance of 16 or 18 feet apart. The vines are set six +or eight feet apart, if Delawares. A strong stake is driven in the +ground behind each vine, standing as high as the top of the trellis when +set. The permanent trunk or head of the vine stands about a foot high. +The vine is renewed back to the top of this trunk every year. One cane +is left at each pruning, which, when tied up to the stake, is as high as +the trellis. From this perpendicular cane, the bearing shoots are +carried out horizontally. About six of these shoots are allowed to grow +upon either side of the cane. As the shoots grow, they are tied to +perpendicular slats which are fastened on the wires. These slats do not +touch the ground. Two slats are provided upon either side, making four +to a vine. They stand a foot or fifteen inches apart. The clusters hang +free from the horizontal shoots. If the shoots grow too long, they are +pinched in when they have passed the second slat. While these shoots are +covering the trellis, another shoot is taken out from the head or trunk +of the vine and, without being allowed to fruit, is tied up along the +central stake. This shoot is to form the top next year, for all the +present vine is to be entirely cut away at the winter's pruning. So the +vine starts every spring with but a single cane. + +[Illustration: 35. HORIZONTAL TRAINING.] + +Excellent results are obtained from the slender growing varieties by +this method of training, but it is too expensive in trellis and in labor +of tying to make it generally practicable. Delaware, however, thrives +remarkably well when trained in this fashion. + + +_Post Training._--There are various methods of training to posts, all of +which possess two advantages--the saving of the expense of trellis and +allowing of cultivation both ways. But they also have grave +disadvantages, especially in the thickness of the head of foliage which +harbors rot and mildew and prevents successful spraying, and hinders the +fruit from coloring and ripening well. These faults are so serious that +post training is now little used for the American grapes. The saving in +cost of trellis is not great, for more posts are required to the acre +than in the trellis systems, and they do not endure long when standing +alone with the whole weight of the vines thrown upon them. + +[Illustration: 36. LOW POST TRAINING.] + +There are various methods of pruning for the stake training, but nearly +all of them agree in pruning to side spurs upon a permanent upright arm +which stands the full height of the vine. There may be one or two sets +of these spurs. We might suppose the Kniffin vine, shown in fig. 22, to +be tied to a post instead of stretched on a trellis; in that event, +the four canes would hang at will, or they might be wrapped about the +post, the shoots hanging out unsupported in all directions. The post +systems are essentially Kniffin in principle, for the shoots hang free. +In low styles of post training, the permanent head of the vine may be +only three or four feet high. This head will have a ring of spurs on it, +and at the annual pruning three to five canes with from six to ten buds +each are left. Fig. 36 is a view in such a post vineyard. + +The main trunk is usually tied permanently to the post. The canes left +after pruning are variously disposed. Sometimes they are bent upwards +and tied to the post above the head of the vine, but they are oftenest +either wound loosely about the post, or are allowed to hang loose. Two +trunks are frequently used to each post, both coming from the ground +from a common root. These are wound about the post in opposite +directions, one outside the other, and if the outside one is secured at +the top by a small nail driven through it, or by a cord, no other tying +will be necessary. Sometimes two or three posts are set at distances of +one foot or more apart, and the vines are wrapped about them, but this +only augments the size and depth of the mass of foliage. Now and then +one sees a careful post training, in which but little wood is left and +vigorous breaking out of shoots practiced, which gives excellent +results; but on the whole, it cannot be recommended. The European post +and stake systems or modifications of them, are yet occasionally +recommended for American vines, but under general conditions, especially +in commercial grape growing, they rarely succeed long. One of the latest +recommendations of any of these types is that of the single pole system +of the Upper Rhine Valley, by A. F. Hofer, of Iowa, in a little treatise +published in 1878. + + +_Arbors._--Arbors and bowers are usually formed with little reference to +pruning and training. The first object is to secure shade and seclusion, +and these are conditions which may seriously interfere with the +production of fine grapes. As a rule, too much wood must be allowed to +grow, and the soil about arbors is rarely ever cultivated. Still, fair +results in fruit can be obtained if the operator makes a diligent use of +the pruning shears. It is usually best to carry one main or permanent +trunk up to the top or center of the arbor. Along this trunk at +intervals of two feet or less, spurs may be left to which the wood is +renewed each year. If the vines stand six feet apart about the +arbor--which is a satisfactory distance--one cane three feet long may be +left on each spur when the pruning is done. The shoots which spring from +these canes will soon cover up the intermediate spaces. At the close of +the season, this entire cane with its laterals is cut away at the spur, +and another three-foot cane--which grew during the season--is left in +its place. This pruning is essentially that of the Kniffin vine in fig. +22. Imagine this vine, with as many joints or tiers as necessary, laid +upon the arbor. The canes are tied out horizontally to the slats instead +of being tied on wires. This same system--running up a long trunk and +cutting in to side spurs--will apply equally well to tall walls and +fences which it is desired to cover. Undoubtedly a better plan, so far +as yield and quality of fruit is concerned, is to renew back nearly to +the root, bringing up a strong new cane, or perhaps two or three every +year, and cutting the old ones off; but as the vines are desired for +shade one does not care to wait until midsummer for the vines to reach +and cover the top of the arbor. + + +_Remodeling Old Vines._--Old and neglected tops can rarely be remodeled +to advantage. If the vine is still vigorous, it will probably pay to +grow an entirely new top by taking out a cane from the root. If the old +top is cut back severely for a year or two, this new cane will make a +vigorous growth, and it can be treated essentially like a new or young +vine. If it is very strong and ripens up well, it can be left long +enough the first fall to make the permanent trunk; but if it is rather +weak and soft, it should be cut back in the fall or winter to two or +three buds, from one of which the permanent trunk is to be grown the +second season. Thereafter, the instructions which are given in the +preceding pages for the various systems, will apply to the new vine. +The old trunk should be cut away as soon as the new one is permanently +tied to the wires, that is, at the close of either the first or second +season of the new trunk. Care must be exercised to rub off all sprouts +which spring from the old root or stump. If this stump can be cut back +into the ground and covered with earth, better results may be expected. +Old vines treated in this manner often make good plants, but if the +vines are weak and the soil is poor, the trouble will scarcely pay for +itself. + +These old vines can be remodeled easily by means of grafting. Cut off +the trunk five or six inches below the surface of the ground, leaving an +inch or two of straight wood above the roots. Into this stub insert two +cions exactly as for cleft-grafting the apple. Cions of two or three +buds, of firm wood the size of a lead-pencil, should be inserted. The +top bud should stand above the ground. The cleft will need no tying nor +wax, although it is well to place a bit of waxed cloth or other material +over the wound to keep the soil out of it. Fill the earth tightly about +it. Fig. 37 shows the first year's growth from two cions of Niagara set +in a Red Wyoming root. Great care must be taken in any pruning which is +done this first year, or the cions may be loosened. If the young shoots +are tied to a stake there will be less danger from wind and careless +workmen. In the vine shown in the illustration, no pruning nor rubbing +out was done, but the vine would have been in better shape for +training if only one or two shoots had been allowed to grow. Such a vine +as this can be carried onto the trellis next year; or it may be cut back +to three or four buds, one of which is allowed to make the permanent +trunk next year, like a two-year set vine. + +[Illustration: 37. A YEARLING GRAFT.] + +If it is desired, however, to keep the old top, it will be best to cut +back the annual growth heavily at the winter pruning. The amount of wood +which shall be left must be determined by the vigor of the plant and the +variety, but three or four canes of six to ten buds each may be left at +suitable places. During the next season a strong shoot from the base of +each cane may be allowed to grow, which shall form the wood of the +following season, while all the present cane is cut away at the end of +the year. So the bearing wood is renewed each year, as in the regular +systems of training. Much skill and experience are often required to +properly rejuvenate an old vine; and in very many cases the vine is not +worth the trouble. + +[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes}] + + + + +INDEX. + + + Page + + Adlum, quoted, 10 + + Arbor Kniffin, 72 + + Arbors, 88 + + Arm, defined, 13 + + + Barns, W. D., quoted, 63 + + Bass bark, 33 + + Bleeding, 22 + + Breaking-out, 23 + + Brocton, Training at, 37 + + Bull cane, 50, 66 + + + Cane, defined, 13 + + Chautauqua County, Training in, 37 + + Contraction of wires, 30 + + Cornell, William T., 56 + + Cornhusks, for tying, 33 + + Crittenden training, 74 + + Cross-wire training, 74 + + Crotch Kniffin, 66 + + + Double Kniffin, 66 + + Drooping systems, 56 + + + Eight-cane Kniffin, 70 + + + Fan training, 54 + + Forestville, Training at, 37 + + Four-cane Kniffin, 58 + + Fuller, quoted, 10, 34 + + + Girdling, 69 + + Grafting, 90 + + + Haviland, Sands, 72 + + Heading-in, 23 + + High Renewal training, 39 + + Hofer, A. F., 88 + + Horizontal Arm training, 34 + + Horizontal training, 83 + + Husks, for tying, 33 + + + Improved Kniffin, 66 + + + Kniffin systems, 58 + + Kniffin training, Comparison of, 26 + + Kniffin, William, 56 + + + Low Kniffin, 69 + + + Marlboro', Training at, 72, 74 + + Modified Kniffin, 63 + + Munson training, 78 + + Munson, T. V., 78 + + + Objects of pruning, 24 + + Old vines, Remodeling of, 89 + + One-wire Kniffin, 69 + + Overhead Kniffin, 72 + + + Planting, 20 + + Posts, 28 + + Post training, 85 + + Pruning, 11 + + Pruning, Objects of, 24 + + " of young vines, 20 + + " Summer, 23 + + " Time for, 22 + + + Raffia, 32 + + Raphia Ruffia, 32 + + Reasons for pruning, 24 + + Remodeling old vines, 89 + + Renewal, defined, 18 + + Renewal Kniffin, 77 + + Rubbing off, 14, 23 + + Rye straw for tying, 33 + + + Sagging of wires, 30 + + Setting, 20 + + Shoot, defined, 13 + + Six-cane Kniffin, 70 + + Spur, defined, 17 + + Spur training, 34 + + Staples, 29 + + Stopping, 23 + + Stripping, 22 + + Summer pruning, 23 + + Superfluous shoots, 23 + + Systems compared, 25 + + + T-head, 41 + + Thomas' Fruit Culturist, quoted, 10 + + Tightening wires, 31 + + Trellis, Making, 27 + + True Kniffin, 58 + + Twine for tying, 32 + + Two-cane Kniffin, 66 + + Tying, 31 + + + Umbrella training, 66 + + Upright training, 34 + + + Walls, Training on, 89 + + Weeping, 22 + + Willows, for tying, 32 + + Wire, for trellis, 28 + + " for tying, 33 + + " weights and sizes, 29 + + Wool-twine, 32 + + + Y-trunk Kniffin, 66 + + Yeoman's patent trellis, 30 + + Yields of grapes, 14, 63, 69, 70 + + Young vines, Pruning of, 20 + +[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes}] + + + + +[Illustration] + +=THIS ILLUSTRATION= was made from a photograph of fair +samples of the different grades of our grape vines, reduced to one-tenth +their natural size. + +We take great pride and comfort in our ability to furnish _strong_, +_fibrous-rooted_ stock, so well appreciated by intelligent and +experienced fruit growers. + +WHOLESALE TRADE ESPECIALLY SOLICITED. CATALOGUE FREE. + +LEWIS ROESCH, FREDONIA, N. Y., + +Grape Vine Specialist And General Nurseryman. + +When writing name this book. + + + + +Hardy + +Native + +Grapes. + + +We desire to call the attention of planters to our large and complete +stock of Grape Vines. + +We propagate and offer for sale upwards of sixty varieties, embracing +the popular old sorts as well as the new ones which seem to have merit. +Our catalogue contains accurate descriptions, and classifies the +different varieties according to color. + +Besides the above we offer an immense collection of all kinds of Fruit +and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Hardy Plants, etc. Our General +Catalogue (160 pages), embellished with numerous engravings of the most +popular Trees, Shrubs, etc., and enclosed in an illuminated cover, will +be mailed free to all who have not received it. + +Our Supplementary Catalogue (28 pages) of Rare and Choice Trees, Shrubs, +etc., including several valuable novelties and many specialties of +superior merit, will also be mailed free. + +ELLWANGER & BARRY, + + Mount Hope Nurseries, + +53rd Year. ROCHESTER, N. Y. + + + + +Pleasant Valley Nurseries + +PEAR TREES.--Lincoln, Coreless, Bessemianka, Japan Golden Russet, +Kieffer, LeConte, etc., Nut Trees in variety. Fruit Trees of all sorts. +Ornamentals, Eleagnus Longipes, Japanese Wineberry Juneberry, Trifoliate +Orange and other valued novelties. + +[Illustration: FRUIT TREES! BERRY PLANTS!] + +STRAWBERRIES, Van Deman, E. P. Roe, and other new varieties; all the old +standard sorts, Gooseberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, +Asparagus Roots and Grape Vines. + +J. S. COLLINS & SON, Moorestown, N. J. + +Send for Catalogue. + + +MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS. + +For the Farm and Household. + +Any one of these valuable books will be sent, postpaid, direct, on +receipt of price. + +Be careful to write name and post office plain, so that there may be no +mistake in mailing. + +Address + +_The Rural Publishing Co., New York._ + +POPULAR ERRORS ABOUT PLANTS.--By A. A. CROZIER. A collection of errors +and superstitions entertained by farmers, gardeners and others, together +with brief scientific refutations. Highly interesting to students and +intelligent readers of the new and attractive in rural literature, and +of real value to practical cultivators who want to know the truth about +their work. + +Price, cloth, $1. + + +THE NURSERY BOOK.--By L. H. BAILEY. A complete handbook of Propagation +and Pollination of Plants. _Profusely illustrated._ This valuable little +manual has been compiled with great pains. The author has had unusual +facilities for its preparation, having been aided by many experts. The +book is absolutely devoid of theory and speculation. It has nothing to +do with plant physiology or abstruse reasoning about plant growth. It +simply tells, plainly and briefly, what every one who sows a seed, makes +a cutting, sets a graft, or crosses a flower wants to know. It is +entirely new and original in method and matter. The cuts number 107, and +are made expressly for it, direct from nature. The book treats all kinds +of cultivated plants, fruits, vegetables, greenhouse plants, hardy +herbs, ornamental trees, shrubs and forest trees. + +CONTENTS: + +I.--SEEDAGE. On Propagation by Seed. + +II.--SEPARATION. + +III.--LAYERAGE. Propagation by Layering. + +IV.--CUTTAGE. Propagation by Cuttings. + +V.--GRAFTAGE.--Including Grafting, Budding, Inarching, etc. + +VI.--NURSERY LIST.--This is the great feature of the book. It is an +alphabetical list of all kinds of plants, with a short statement telling +which of the operations described in the first five chapters are +employed in propagating them. _Over 2,000 entries_ are made in the list. +The following entries will give an idea of the method: + +=Acer= (MAPLE). _Sapindaceae._ Stocks are grown from stratified seeds, +which should be sown an inch or two deep; or some species, as _A. +dasycarpum_, come readily if seeds are sown as soon as ripe. Some +cultural varieties are layered, but better plants are obtained by +grafting. Varieties of native species are worked upon common or native +stocks. The Japanese sorts are winter-worked upon imported _A. +polymorphum_ stocks, either by whip or veneer grafting. Maples can also +be budded in summer, and they grow readily from cuttings of both ripe +and soft wood. + +=Phyllocactus, Phyllocereus, Disocactus= (LEAF CACTUS). _Cacteae._ Fresh +seeds grow readily. Sow in rather sandy soil which is well drained, and +apply water as for common seeds. When the seedlings appear, remove to a +light position. Cuttings from mature shoots, three to six inches in +length, root readily in sharp sand. Give a temperature of about 60 deg., and +apply only sufficient water to keep from flagging. If the cuttings are +very juicy they may be laid on dry sand for several days before +planting. + +VII.--POLLINATION. + +Price, in Library Style, cloth, wide margins, $1 Pocket Style, paper, +narrow margins, 50 cents. + + +THE MODIFICATION OF PLANTS BY CLIMATE.--By A. A. CROZIER. An essay on +the influence of climate upon size, form, color, fruitfulness, etc., +with a discussion on the question of acclimation. 35 pp. + +Price, paper, 25 cents. + + +FRUIT CULTURE, and the Laying Out and Management of a Country Home.--By +W. C. STRONG, Ex-President of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, +and Vice-President of the American Pomological Society. Illustrated. New +revised edition, with many additions, making it the latest and freshest +book on the subject. + +CONTENTS: + +Rural Homes--Choice of Locality--Treatment--A Good Lawn--The Approach. +Fruits--Location of the Fruit Garden--Success in Fruit-Culture--Profit +in Fruit-Culture. How to Procure Trees--Quality--How to Plant--Time to +Plant--Preparing the Land--Fertilizers--Cutting Back--Distances for +Planting. Care of the Fruit-Garden--Irrigation--Application of +Fertilizers--Thinning the Fruit--Labels. The Apple--Insects Injurious to +the Apple. The Pear--Dwarf Pears--Situation and Soil--Pruning--Ripening +the Fruit--Insects Injurious to the Pear--Diseases. The Peach--Injurious +Insects and Diseases of the Peach--Nectarines. The Plum--Insects and +Diseases of the Plum--Apricots. The Cherry--Insects Injurious to the +Cherry. The Quince--Insects Injurious to the Quince. The +Grape--Grape-Houses--Varieties--Insects Injurious to the Grape--Mildew. +The Currant--Insects Attacking the Currant--The Gooseberry. The +Raspberry--The Blackberry. The Strawberry. The Mulberry--The +Fig--Rhubarb--Asparagus. Propagating Fruit-Trees--From the Seed--By +Division--By Cuttings--By Layers--By Budding--By Grafting. +Insecticides--Fungicides--Recipes. Price, in one volume, 16mo., cloth, +$1. + + +CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE FOR AMERICA.--By JAMES MORTON. An excellent and +thorough book; especially adapted to the culture of Chrysanthemums in +America. The contents include Propagation by Grafting. Inarching and +Seed. American History. Propagation by Cuttings. Exhibition Plants. +Classification. Exhibition Blooms. Soil for Potting. Watering and Liquid +Manure. Selection of Plants. Top-Dressing. Hints on Exhibitions. List of +Synonyms. Staking and Tying. General Culture. Insects and Diseases. +Standard Chrysanthemums. Sports and Variations. Disbudding and Thinning. +Oriental and European History. Calendar of Monthly Operations. +Chrysanthemum Shows and Organizations. National Chrysanthemum +Society. Early and Late-Flowering Varieties. Chrysanthemums as +House-Plants--Varieties for Various Purposes. Price, cloth, $1; paper, +60 cents. + + +IMPROVING THE FARM, or Methods of Culture that shall afford a profit, +and at the same time increase the fertility of the soil.--By LUCIUS D. +DAVIS, of Conanicut Park Farm. The contents treat exhaustively on +renewing run-down farms, and comprise the following chapters: +Book-Farming. The Run-Down Farm. Will It Pay to Improve the Farm? How +Farms Become Exhausted. Thorough Tillage. Rotation of Crops. Green +Manuring. More About Clover. Barn-Yard Manure--How Made, Its Cost and +Value. How Prepared and Applied. The Use of Wood-Ashes. Commercial +Fertilizers. Special Fertilizers. Complete Manures. Experiments with +Fertilizers. Stock on the Farm. Providing Food for Stock. Specialties in +Farming. Price, cloth, $1. + + +LANDSCAPE-GARDENING.--By ELIAS A. LONG. A practical treatise comprising +32 diagrams of actual grounds and parts of grounds, with copious +explanations. Of the diagrams, all but nine have appeared in the serial, +"Taste and Tact in Arranging Ornamental Grounds," which has been so +attractive a feature of _Popular Gardening_ and _American Gardening_ +during the past year. But in the new form the matter has been entirely +rewritten. Printed on heavy plate paper, it is unsurpassed for beauty by +any other work on Landscape Gardening. + +Price, 50 cents. + + +THE BUSINESS HEN.--Breeding and Feeding Poultry for Profit. The pat +title of a unique book is The Business Hen. A condensed and, practical +little encyclopedia of profitable poultry-keeping. P. H. Jacobs, Henry +Hale, James Rankin, J. H. Drevenstedt and others equally well known have +written chapters on their specialties, the whole being skillfully +arranged and carefully edited by H. W. Collingwood, managing editor of +_The Rural New-Yorker_. Starting with the question, "What is an Egg?" +the book goes on step by step to indicate the most favorable conditions +for developing the egg into a "Business Hen." Incubation, care of +chicks, treatment of diseases, selection and breeding, feeding and +housing, are all discussed in a clear and simple manner. Two successful +egg-farms are described in detail. On one of these farms the owner has +succeeded in developing a flock of 600 hens that average over 200 eggs +each per year. + +Price, cloth, 75 cents; paper, 40 cents. + + +FIRST LESSONS IN AGRICULTURE. (_2nd Edition, Revised and Enlarged._)--By +F. A. Gulley, M. S., Professor of Agriculture in the Agricultural +College of Mississippi. This book discusses the more important +principles which underlie agriculture in a plain, simple way, within the +comprehension of students and readers who have not studied chemistry, +botany, and other branches of science related to agriculture. It +supplies a much-needed text-book for common schools, and is useful for +the practical farmer. Includes all the latest developments in +agricultural science as applied to the subject. + +Price, cloth, $1. Special prices for Schools and Colleges. + + +THE NEW POTATO CULTURE.--By ELBERT S. CARMAN. This book gives the result +of 15 years' experiment work on The Rural ground. It treats particularly +of: How to increase the crop without corresponding cost of production. +Manures and fertilizers: kinds and methods of application. The soil, and +how to put it in right condition. Depth of planting. How much seed to +plant. Methods of culture. The Rural trench system. Varieties, etc., +etc. + +Nothing old or worn-out about this book. It treats of new and profitable +methods; in fact, of _The NEW Potato Culture_. It is respectfully +submitted that these experiments at The Rural grounds have, directly and +indirectly, thrown more light upon the various problems involved in +successful potato-culture than any other experiments that have been +carried on in America. + +Price, cloth, 75 cents; paper, 40 cents. + + +HORTICULTURIST'S RULE-BOOK.--By Professor L. H. BAILEY, Editor of +_American Gardening_, Horticulturist of the Cornell Experiment Station, +and Professor of Horticulture in Cornell University. It contains in +handy and concise form, a great number of Rules and Recipes required by +gardeners, fruit-growers, truckers, florists, farmers, etc. + +Synopsis of Contents: Injurious insects, with preventives and remedies. +Fungicides for plant diseases. Plant diseases, with preventives and +remedies. Injuries from mice, rabbits, birds, etc., with preventives and +remedies. Waxes and washes for grafting and for wounds. Cements, paints, +etc. _Seed Tables_: Quantities required for sowing given areas. Weight +and size of seeds. Longevity of seeds. Time required for seeds to +germinate. _Planting Tables_: Dates for sowing seeds in different +latitudes. Tender and hardy vegetables. Distances apart for planting. +_Maturity and Yields_: Time required for maturity of vegetables; for +bearing of fruit plants. Average yields of crops. Keeping and storing +fruits and vegetables. _Propagation of Plants_: Ways of grafting and +budding. Methods by which fruits are propagated. Stocks used for fruits. +_Standard Measures and Sizes_: Standard flower-pots. Standard and legal +measures. English measures for sale of fruits and vegetables. Quantities +of water held in pipes and tanks. Effect of wind in cooling off glass +roofs. Per cent. of light reflected from glass at various angles of +inclination. Weights of various varieties of apples per bushel. Amount +of various products yielded by given quantities of fruit. Labels. +Loudon's rules of horticulture. Rules of nomenclature. Rules for +exhibition. Weather signs and protection from frost. _Collecting and +Preserving_: How to make an herbarium. Preserving and printing of +flowers and other parts of plants. Keeping cut-flowers. How to collect +and preserve insects. Chemical composition of fruits and vegetables, and +seeds, fertilizers, soils and vegetables. _Names and Histories_: +Vegetables which have different names in England and America. Derivation +of names of various fruits and vegetables. Names of fruits and +vegetables in various languages. Glossary. Calendar. + +Price, cloth, $1; paper, 60 cents. + + +CROSS-BREEDING AND HYBRIDIZING:--The Philosophy of the Crossing of +Plants considered with reference to their Cultivation--How to Improve +plants by Hybridizing.--By L. H. BAILEY. It is the only book accessible +to American horticulture which gives the reasons, discouragements, +possibilities and limitations of Cross-Breeding. Every man who owns a +plant should have it, if for no other reason than to post himself upon +one of the leading practices of the day. The pamphlet contains also a +bibliography of the subject, including over 400 entries. + +Price, paper, 40 cents. + + +CHEMICALS AND CLOVER.--By H. W. COLLINGWOOD, Managing Editor of _The +Rural New-Yorker_. A concise and practical discussion of the +all-important topic of commercial fertilizers in connection with green +manuring in bringing up worn-out soils, and in general farm practice. + +Price, paper, 20 cents. + + +ANNALS OF HORTICULTURE, Vol. IV.--Bright, New, Clean and Fresh. These +Annals are entirely rewritten every year. They are the _only records_ of +the progress in horticulture. Exhaustive lists of all the plants +introduced in 1892, with descriptions, directories, full accounts of all +new discoveries, new tools, and a wealth of practical matter for +_Gardeners_, _Fruit-Growers_, _Florists_, _Vegetable-Gardeners and +Landscape-Gardeners_, comprise its contents. + +Ready soon. Illustrated. Vol. IV., cloth $1. Vols. I., II. and III. at +the same price. + + +INSECTS AND INSECTICIDES.--A practical Manual concerning Noxious +Insects and the Methods of Preventing their Injuries. By CLARENCE M. +WEED, Professor of Entomology and Zoology, New Hampshire State College. + +I think that you have gotten together a very useful and valuable little +book.--DR. C. V. RILEY, _U.S. Entomologist_. + +It is excellent. I must congratulate you on the skill you have displayed +in putting in the most important insects, and the complete manner in +which you have done the work.--JAMES FLETCHER, _Dominion Entomologist_. + +I am well pleased with it. There is certainly a demand for just such a +work.--DR. F. M. HEXAMER, _Editor American Agriculturist_. + +Price, cloth, $1.25. + + +THE CAULIFLOWER.--BY A. A. CROZIER. Teacher and Practical Origin and +History of this increasingly important and always delicious vegetable. + +The Cauliflower Industry.--In Europe. In the United States. Importation +of Cauliflowers. + +Management of the Crop.--Soil. Fertilizers. Planting. Cultivating. +Harvesting. Keeping. Marketing. + +The Early Crop.--Caution against planting it largely. Special +directions. Buttoning. + +Cauliflower Regions of the United States.--Upper Atlantic Coast. Lake +Region. Prairie Region. Cauliflowers in the South. The Pacific Coast. + +Insect and Fungous Enemies.--Flea-beetle. Cut-worms. Cabbage-maggot. +Cabbage-worm. Stem-rot. Damping-off. Black-leg. + +Cauliflower Seed.--Importance of careful selection. Where the seed is +grown. Influence of climate. American-grown seed. + +Varieties.--Descriptive catalogue. Order of earliness. Variety tests. +Best varieties. + +Broccoli.--Difference between Broccoli and Cauliflower. Cultivation, use +and varieties of Broccoli. + +Cooking Cauliflower.--Digestibility. Nutritive value. Chemical +composition. Recipes. + +Price, cloth, $1. + + +PRACTICAL FARM CHEMISTRY.--A Practical Handbook of Profitable +Crop-Feeding, written for Practical Men. By T. GREINER. + +Part I. The Raw Materials of Plant-Food. + +Part II. The Available Sources of Supply. + +Part III. Principles of Economic Application, or Manuring for Money. + +This work, written in plainest language, is intended to assist the +farmer in the selection, purchase and application of plant-foods. If you +wish to learn ways how to save money in procuring manurial substances, +and how to make money by their proper use, read this book. If you want +your boy to learn the principle of crop-feeding, and become a successful +farmer, give him a copy of this book. The cost of the book will be +returned a hundred-fold to every reader who peruses its pages with care +and applies its teachings to practice. + +Price, cloth, $1. + + +SPRAYING CROPS.--Why, When and How to Do It.--By PROF. CLARENCE M. +WEED. A handy volume of about 100 pages; illustrated. Covers the whole +field of the insect and fungous enemies of crops for which the spray is +used. The following topics are discussed in a concise, practical manner: + +Spraying Against Insects. Feeding Habits of Insects. Spraying Against +Fungous Diseases. The Philosophy of Spraying. Spraying Apparatus. +Spraying Trees in Blossom. Precautions in Spraying. Insecticides used in +Spraying. Fungicides used in Spraying. Combining Insecticides and +Fungicides. Cost of Spraying Materials. Prejudice Against Spraying. +Spraying the Larger Fruits. Spraying Small Fruits and Nursery Stock. +Spraying Shade Trees, Ornamental Plants and Flowers. Spraying +Vegetables, Field Crops and Domestic Animals. + +Price in stiff paper cover, 50 cents; flexible cloth, 75 cents. + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE: + +Illustrations have been moved to the nearest appropriate paragraph +break. For the benefit of readers of the text version of this e-book, +a small description was added to 5 decorative line drawings which have +no caption or description in the original text. This addition appears +in parentheses as: "(Drawing of grapes)". + +An asterism in the text is represented as: *.* + +Inconsistencies in the author's spelling and use of punctuation are +unchanged in this e-text. + +Obvious typographical and printer errors have been corrected without +comment. + +In addition to obvious errors, the following changes have been made: + + 1. On page 87: "arguments" was changed to "augments" in the phrase, + "... this only augments the size and depth...." + + 2. On page 90: "side" was changed to "size" in the phrase, "... + wood the size of a lead-pencil...." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of American Grape Training, by +Liberty Hyde (L.H.) Bailey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICAN GRAPE TRAINING *** + +***** This file should be named 39779.txt or 39779.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/7/7/39779/ + +Produced by Cathy Maxam and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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