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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wild Apples, by Henry David Thoreau
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wild Apples
+
+Author: Henry David Thoreau
+
+Posting Date: June 13, 2009 [EBook #4066]
+Release Date: May, 2003
+First Posted: November 1, 2001
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILD APPLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Charles Franks and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team. HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Wild Apples.
+
+
+By
+
+Henry David Thoreau
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  THE HISTORY OF THE APPLE-TREE.
+  THE WILD APPLE.
+  THE CRAB.
+  HOW THE WILD APPLE GROWS.
+  THE FRUIT, AND ITS FLAVOR.
+  THEIR BEAUTY.
+  THE NAMING OF THEM.
+  THE LAST GLEANING.
+  THE "FROZEN-THAWED" APPLE.
+
+
+
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE APPLE-TREE.
+
+It is remarkable how closely the history of the Apple-tree is connected
+with that of man. The geologist tells us that the order of the
+Rosaceae, which includes the Apple, also the true Grasses, and the
+Labiatae, or Mints, were introduced only a short time previous to the
+appearance of man on the globe.
+
+It appears that apples made a part of the food of that unknown
+primitive people whose traces have lately been found at the bottom of
+the Swiss lakes, supposed to be older than the foundation of Rome, so
+old that they had no metallic implements. An entire black and
+shrivelled Crab-Apple has been recovered from their stores.
+
+Tacitus says of the ancient Germans that they satisfied their hunger
+with wild apples, among other things.
+
+Niebuhr[1] observes that "the words for a house, a field, a plough,
+ploughing, wine, oil, milk, sheep, apples, and others relating to
+agriculture and the gentler ways of life, agree in Latin and Greek,
+while the Latin words for all objects pertaining to war or the chase
+are utterly alien from the Greek." Thus the apple-tree may be
+considered a symbol of peace no less than the olive.
+
+[1] A German historical critic of ancient life.
+
+The apple was early so important, and so generally distributed, that
+its name traced to its root in many languages signifies fruit in
+general. Maelon (Melon), in Greek, means an apple, also the fruit of
+other trees, also a sheep and any cattle, and finally riches in general.
+
+The apple-tree has been celebrated by the Hebrews, Greeks, Romans, and
+Scandinavians. Some have thought that the first human pair were tempted
+by its fruit. Goddesses are fabled to have contended for it, dragons
+were set to watch it, and heroes were employed to pluck it.[2]
+
+[2] The Greek myths especially referred to are The Choice of Paris and
+The Apples of the Hesperides.
+
+The tree is mentioned in at least three places in the Old Testament,
+and its fruit in two or three more. Solomon sings, "As the apple-tree
+among the trees of the wood, so is my beloved among the sons." And
+again, "Stay me with flagons, comfort me with apples." The noblest part
+of man's noblest feature is named from this fruit, "the apple of the
+eye."
+
+The apple-tree is also mentioned by Homer and Herodotus. Ulysses saw in
+the glorious garden of Alcinous "pears and pomegranates and apple-trees
+bearing beautiful fruit." And according to Homer, apples were among the
+fruits which Tantalus could not pluck, the wind ever blowing their
+boughs away from him. Theophrastus knew and described the apple-tree as
+a botanist.
+
+According to the prose Edda,[3] "Iduna keeps in a box the apples which
+the gods, when they feel old age approaching, have only to taste of to
+become young again. It is in this manner that they will be kept in
+renovated youth until Ragnarok" (or the destruction of the Gods).
+
+[3] The stories of the early Scandinavians.
+
+I learn from Loudon[4] that "the ancient Welsh bards were rewarded for
+excelling in song by the token of the apple-spray;" and "in the
+Highlands of Scotland the apple-tree is the badge of the clan Lamont."
+
+[4] An English authority on the culture of orchards and gardens.
+
+The apple-tree belongs chiefly to the northern temperate zone. Loudon
+says, that "it grows spontaneously in every part of Europe except the
+frigid zone, and throughout Western Asia, China and Japan." We have
+also two or three varieties of the apple indigenous in North America.
+The cultivated apple-tree was first introduced into this country by the
+earliest settlers, and is thought to do as well or better here than
+anywhere else. Probably some of the varieties which are now cultivated
+were first introduced into Britain by the Romans.
+
+Pliny, adopting the distinction of Theophrastus, says, "Of trees there
+are some which are altogether wild, some more civilized." Theophrastus
+includes the apple among the last; and, indeed, it is in this sense the
+most civilized of all trees. It is as harmless as a dove, as beautiful
+as a rose, and as valuable as flocks and herds. It has been longer
+cultivated than any other, and so is more humanized; and who knows but,
+like the dog, it will at length be no longer traceable to its wild
+original? It migrates with man, like the dog and horse and cow; first,
+perchance, from Greece to Italy, thence to England, thence to America;
+and our Western emigrant is still marching steadily toward the setting
+sun with the seeds of the apple in his pocket, or perhaps a few young
+trees strapped to his load. At least a million apple-trees are thus set
+farther westward this year than any cultivated ones grew last year.
+Consider how the Blossom-Week, like the Sabbath, is thus annually
+spreading over the prairies; for when man migrates he carries with him
+not only his birds, quadrupeds, insects, vegetables, and his very
+sward, but his orchard also.
+
+The leaves and tender twigs are an agreeable food to many domestic
+animals, as the cow, horse, sheep, and goat; and the fruit is sought
+after by the first, as well as by the hog. Thus there appears to have
+existed a natural alliance between these animals and this tree from the
+first. "The fruit of the Crab in the forests of France" is said to be
+"a great resource for the wild boar."
+
+Not only the Indian, but many indigenous insects, birds, and
+quadrupeds, welcomed the apple-tree to these shores. The
+tent-caterpillar saddled her eggs on the very first twig that was
+formed, and it has since shared her affections with the wild cherry;
+and the canker-worm also in a measure abandoned the elm to feed on it.
+As it grew apace, the bluebird, robin, cherry-bird, king-bird, and many
+more, came with haste and built their nests and warbled in its boughs,
+and so became orchard-birds, and multiplied more than ever. It was an
+era in the history of their race. The downy woodpecker found such a
+savory morsel under its bark, that he perforated it in a ring quite
+round the tree before he left it,--a thing which he had never done
+before, to my knowledge. It did not take the partridge long to find out
+how sweet its buds were, and every winter eve she flew, and still
+flies, from the wood, to pluck them, much to the farmer's sorrow. The
+rabbit, too, was not slow to learn the taste of its twigs and bark; and
+when the fruit was ripe, the squirrel half-rolled, half-carried it to
+his hole; and even the musquash crept up the bank from the brook at
+evening, and greedily devoured it, until he had worn a path in the
+grass there; and when it was frozen and thawed, the crow and the jay
+were glad to taste it occasionally. The owl crept into the first
+apple-tree that became hollow, and fairly hooted with delight, finding
+it just the place for him; so, settling down into it, he has remained
+there ever since.
+
+My theme being the Wild Apple, I will merely glance at some of the
+seasons in the annual growth of the cultivated apple, and pass on to my
+special province.
+
+The flowers of the apple are perhaps the most beautiful of any tree, so
+copious and so delicious to both sight and scent. The walker is
+frequently tempted to turn and linger near some more than usually
+handsome one, whose blossoms are two thirds expanded. How superior it
+is in these respects to the pear, whose blossoms are neither colored
+nor fragrant!
+
+By the middle of July, green apples are so large as to remind us of
+coddling, and of the autumn. The sward is commonly strewed with little
+ones which fall still-born, as it were,--Nature thus thinning them for
+us. The Roman writer Palladius said: "If apples are inclined to fall
+before their time, a stone placed in a split root will retain them."
+Some such notion, still surviving, may account for some of the stones
+which we see placed to be overgrown in the forks of trees. They have a
+saying in Suffolk, England,--
+
+    "At Michaelmas time, or a little before,
+     Half an apple goes to the core."
+
+Early apples begin to be ripe about the first of August; but I think
+that none of them are so good to eat as some to smell. One is worth
+more to scent your handkerchief with than any perfume which they sell
+in the shops. The fragrance of some fruits is not to be forgotten,
+along with that of flowers. Some gnarly apple which I pick up in the
+road reminds me by its fragrance of all the wealth of
+Pomona,[5]--carrying me forward to those days when they will be
+collected in golden and ruddy heaps in the orchards and about the
+cider-mills.
+
+[5] The Roman goddess of fruit and fruit-trees.
+
+A week or two later, as you are going by orchards or gardens,
+especially in the evenings, you pass through a little region possessed
+by the fragrance of ripe apples, and thus enjoy them without price, and
+without robbing anybody.
+
+There is thus about all natural products a certain volatile and
+ethereal quality which represents their highest value, and which cannot
+be vulgarized, or bought and sold. No mortal has ever enjoyed the
+perfect flavor of any fruit, and only the godlike among men begin to
+taste its ambrosial qualities. For nectar and ambrosia are only those
+fine flavors of every earthly fruit which our coarse palates fail to
+perceive,--just as we occupy the heaven of the gods without knowing it.
+When I see a particularly mean man carrying a load of fair and fragrant
+early apples to market, I seem to see a contest going on between him
+and his horse, on the one side, and the apples on the other, and, to my
+mind, the apples always gain it. Pliny says that apples are the
+heaviest of all things, and that the oxen begin to sweat at the mere
+sight of a load of them. Our driver begins to lose his load the moment
+he tries to transport them to where they do not belong, that is, to any
+but the most beautiful. Though he gets out from time to time, and feels
+of them, and thinks they are all there, I see the stream of their
+evanescent and celestial qualities going to heaven from his cart, while
+the pulp and skin and core only are going to market. They are not
+apples, but pomace. Are not these still Iduna's apples, the taste of
+which keeps the gods forever young? and think you that they will let
+Loki or Thjassi carry them off to Jotunheim,[6] while they grow
+wrinkled and gray? No, for Ragnarok, or the destruction of the gods, is
+not yet.
+
+[6] Jotunheim (Ye(r)t'-un-hime) in Scandinavian mythology was the home
+of the Jotun or Giants. Loki was a descendant of the gods, and a
+companion of the Giants. Thjassi (Tee-assy) was a giant.
+
+There is another thinning of the fruit, commonly near the end of August
+or in September, when the ground is strewn with windfalls; and this
+happens especially when high winds occur after rain. In some orchards
+you may see fully three quarters of the whole crop on the ground, lying
+in a circular form beneath the trees, yet hard and green,--or, if it is
+a hillside, rolled far down the hill. However, it is an ill wind that
+blows nobody any good. All the country over, people are busy picking up
+the windfalls, and this will make them cheap for early apple-pies.
+
+In October, the leaves falling, the apples are more distinct on the
+trees. I saw one year in a neighboring town some trees fuller of fruit
+than I remember to have ever seen before, small yellow apples hanging
+over the road. The branches were gracefully drooping with their weight,
+like a barberry-bush, so that the whole tree acquired a new character.
+Even the topmost branches, instead of standing erect, spread and
+drooped in all directions; and there were so many poles supporting the
+lower ones, that they looked like pictures of banian-trees. As an old
+English manuscript says, "The mo appelen the tree bereth the more sche
+boweth to the folk."
+
+Surely the apple is the noblest of fruits. Let the most beautiful or
+the swiftest have it. That should be the "going" price of apples.
+
+Between the fifth and twentieth of October I see the barrels lie under
+the trees. And perhaps I talk with one who is selecting some choice
+barrels to fulfil an order. He turns a specked one over many times
+before he leaves it out. If I were to tell what is passing in my mind,
+I should say that every one was specked which he had handled; for he
+rubs off all the bloom, and those fugacious ethereal qualities leave
+it. Cool evenings prompt the farmers to make haste, and at length I see
+only the ladders here and there left leaning against the trees.
+
+It would be well if we accepted these gifts with more joy and
+gratitude, and did not think it enough simply to put a fresh load of
+compost about the tree. Some old English customs are suggestive at
+least. I find them described chiefly in Brand's "Popular Antiquities."
+It appears that "on Christmas eve the farmers and their men in
+Devonshire take a large bowl of cider, with a toast in it, and carrying
+it in state to the orchard, they salute the apple-trees with much
+ceremony, in order to make them bear well the next season." This
+salutation consists in "throwing some of the cider about the roots of
+the tree, placing bits of the toast on the branches," and then,
+"encircling one of the best bearing trees in the orchard, they drink
+the following toast three several times:--
+
+      "'Here's to thee, old apple-tree,
+     Whence thou mayst bud, and whence thou mayst blow,
+     And whence thou mayst bear apples enow!
+        Hats-full! caps-full!
+        Bushel, bushel, sacks-full!
+        And my pockets full, too! Hurra!'"
+
+
+Also what was called "apple-howling" used to be practised in various
+counties of England on New-Year's eve. A troop of boys visited the
+different orchards, and, encircling the apple-trees, repeated the
+following words:--
+
+    "Stand fast, root! bear well, top!
+     Pray God send us a good howling crop:
+     Every twig, apples big;
+     Every bow, apples enow!"
+
+
+"They then shout in chorus, one of the boys accompanying them on a
+cow's horn. During this ceremony they rap the trees with their sticks."
+This is called "wassailing" the trees, and is thought by some to be "a
+relic of the heathen sacrifice to Pomona."
+
+Herrick sings,--
+
+    "Wassaile the trees that they may beare
+     You many a plum and many a peare;
+     For more or less fruits they will bring
+     As you so give them wassailing."
+
+Our poets have as yet a better right to sing of cider than of wine; but
+it behooves them to sing better than English Phillips did, else they
+will do no credit to their Muse.
+
+
+
+
+THE WILD APPLE.
+
+
+So much for the more civilized apple-trees (urbaniores, as Pliny calls
+them). I love better to go through the old orchards of ungrafted
+apple-trees, at whatever season of the year,--so irregularly planted:
+sometimes two trees standing close together; and the rows so devious
+that you would think that they not only had grown while the owner was
+sleeping, but had been set out by him in a somnambulic state. The rows
+of grafted fruit will never tempt me to wander amid them like these.
+But I now, alas, speak rather from memory than from any recent
+experience, such ravages have been made!
+
+Some soils, like a rocky tract called the Easterbrooks Country in my
+neighborhood, are so suited to the apple, that it will grow faster in
+them without any care, or if only the ground is broken up once a year,
+than it will in many places with any amount of care. The owners of this
+tract allow that the soil is excellent for fruit, but they say that it
+is so rocky that they have not patience to plough it, and that,
+together with the distance, is the reason why it is not cultivated.
+There are, or were recently, extensive orchards there standing without
+order. Nay, they spring up wild and bear well there in the midst of
+pines, birches, maples, and oaks. I am often surprised to see rising
+amid these trees the rounded tops of apple-trees glowing with red or
+yellow fruit, in harmony with the autumnal tints of the forest.
+
+Going up the side of a cliff about the first of November, I saw a
+vigorous young apple-tree, which, planted by birds or cows, had shot up
+amid the rocks and open woods there, and had now much fruit on it,
+uninjured by the frosts, when all cultivated apples were gathered. It
+was a rank wild growth, with many green leaves on it still, and made an
+impression of thorniness. The fruit was hard and green, but looked as
+if it would be palatable in the winter. Some was dangling on the twigs,
+but more half-buried in the wet leaves under the tree, or rolled far
+down the hill amid the rocks. The owner knows nothing of it. The day
+was not observed when it first blossomed, nor when it first bore fruit,
+unless by the chickadee. There was no dancing on the green beneath it
+in its honor, and now there is no hand to pluck its fruit,--which is
+only gnawed by squirrels, as I perceive. It has done double duty,--not
+only borne this crop, but each twig has grown a foot into the air. And
+this is such fruit! bigger than many berries, we must admit, and
+carried home will be sound and palatable next spring. What care I for
+Iduna's apples so long as I can get these?
+
+When I go by this shrub thus late and hardy, and see its dangling
+fruit, I respect the tree, and I am grateful for Nature's bounty, even
+though I cannot eat it. Here on this rugged and woody hillside has
+grown an apple-tree, not planted by man, no relic of a former orchard,
+but a natural growth, like the pines and oaks. Most fruits which we
+prize and use depend entirely on our care. Corn and grain, potatoes,
+peaches, melons, etc., depend altogether on our planting; but the apple
+emulates man's independence and enterprise. It is not simply carried,
+as I have said, but, like him, to some extent, it has migrated to this
+New World, and is even, here and there, making its way amid the
+aboriginal trees; just as the ox and dog and horse sometimes run wild
+and maintain themselves.
+
+Even the sourest and crabbedest apple, growing in the most unfavorable
+position, suggests such thoughts as these, it is so noble a fruit.
+
+
+
+
+THE CRAB.
+
+
+Nevertheless, our wild apple is wild only like myself, perchance, who
+belong not to the aboriginal race here, but have strayed into the woods
+from the cultivated stock. Wilder still, as I have said, there grows
+elsewhere in this country a native and aboriginal Crab-Apple, "whose
+nature has not yet been modified by cultivation." It is found from
+Western New York to Minnesota and southward. Michaux[7] says that its
+ordinary height "is fifteen or eighteen feet, but it is sometimes found
+twenty-five or thirty feet high," and that the large ones "exactly
+resemble the common apple-tree." "The flowers are white mingled with
+rose-color, and are collected in corymbs." They are remarkable for
+their delicious odor. The fruit, according to him, is about an inch and
+a half in diameter, and is intensely acid. Yet they make fine
+sweet-meats, and also cider of them. He concludes, that "if, on being
+cultivated, it does not yield new and palatable varieties, it will at
+least be celebrated for the beauty of its flowers, and for the
+sweetness of its perfume."
+
+[7] Pronounced mee-sho; a French botanist and traveller.
+
+I never saw the Crab-Apple till May, 1861. I had heard of it through
+Michaux, but more modern botanists, so far as I know, have not treated
+it as of any peculiar importance. Thus it was a half-fabulous tree to
+me. I contemplated a pilgrimage to the "Glades," a portion of
+Pennsylvania, where it was said to grow to perfection. I thought of
+sending to a nursery for it, but doubted if they had it, or would
+distinguish it from European varieties. At last I had occasion to go to
+Minnesota, and on entering Michigan I began to notice from the cars a
+tree with handsome rose-colored flowers. At first I thought it some
+variety of thorn; but it was not long before the truth flashed on me,
+that this was my long-sought Crab-Apple. It was the prevailing
+flowering shrub or tree to be seen from the cars at that season of the
+year,--about the middle of May. But the cars never stopped before one,
+and so I was launched on the bosom of the Mississippi without having
+touched one, experiencing the fate of Tantalus. On arriving at St.
+Anthony's Falls, I was sorry to be told that I was too far north for
+the Crab-Apple. Nevertheless I succeeded in finding it about eight
+miles west of the Falls; touched it and smelled it, and secured a
+lingering corymb of flowers for my herbarium. This must have been near
+its northern limit.
+
+
+
+
+HOW THE WILD APPLE GROWS.
+
+
+But though these are indigenous, like the Indians, I doubt whether they
+are any hardier than those back-woodsmen among the apple-trees, which,
+though descended from cultivated stocks, plant themselves in distant
+fields and forests, where the soil is favorable to them. I know of no
+trees which have more difficulties to contend with, and which more
+sturdily resist their foes. These are the ones whose story we have to
+tell. It oftentimes reads thus:--
+
+Near the beginning of May, we notice little thickets of apple-trees
+just springing up in the pastures where cattle have been,--as the rocky
+ones of our Easter-brooks Country, or the top of Nobscot Hill in
+Sudbury. One or two of these perhaps survive the drought and other
+accidents,--their very birthplace defending them against the
+encroaching grass and some other dangers, at first.
+
+    In two years' time 't had thus
+     Reached the level of the rocks,
+    Admired the stretching world,
+     Nor feared the wandering flocks.
+
+    But at this tender age
+     Its sufferings began:
+    There came a browsing ox
+     And cut it down a span.
+
+This time, perhaps, the ox does not notice it amid the grass; but the
+next year, when it has grown more stout, he recognizes it for a
+fellow-emigrant from the old country, the flavor of whose leaves and
+twigs he well knows; and though at first he pauses to welcome it, and
+express his surprise, and gets for answer, "The same cause that brought
+you here brought me," he nevertheless browses it again, reflecting, it
+may be, that he has some title to it.
+
+Thus cut down annually, it does not despair; but, putting forth two
+short twigs for every one cut off, it spreads out low along the ground
+in the hollows or between the rocks, growing more stout and scrubby,
+until it forms, not a tree as yet, but a little pyramidal, stiff,
+twiggy mass, almost as solid and impenetrable as a rock. Some of the
+densest and most impenetrable clumps of bushes that I have ever seen,
+as well, on account of the closeness and stubbornness of their branches
+as of their thorns, have been these wild-apple scrubs. They are more
+like the scrubby fir and black spruce on which you stand, and sometimes
+walk, on the tops of mountains, where cold is the demon they contend
+with, than anything else. No wonder they are prompted to grow thorns at
+last, to defend themselves against such foes. In their thorniness,
+however, there is no malice, only some malic acid.
+
+The rocky pastures of the tract I have referred to--for they maintain
+their ground best in a rocky field--are thickly sprinkled with these
+little tufts, reminding you often of some rigid gray mosses or lichens,
+and you see thousands of little trees just springing up between them,
+with the seed still attached to them.
+
+Being regularly clipped all around each year by the cows, as a hedge
+with shears, they are often of a perfect conical or pyramidal form,
+from one to four feet high, and more or less sharp, as if trimmed by
+the gardener's art. In the pastures on Nobscot Hill and its spurs they
+make fine dark shadows when the sun is low. They are also an excellent
+covert from hawks for many small birds that roost and build in them.
+Whole flocks perch in them at night, and I have seen three robins'
+nests in one which was six feet in diameter.
+
+No doubt many of these are already old trees, if you reckon from the
+day they were planted, but infants still when you consider their
+development and the long life before them. I counted the annual rings
+of some which were just one foot high, and as wide as high, and found
+that they were about twelve years old, but quite sound and thrifty!
+They were so low that they were unnoticed by the walker, while many of
+their contemporaries from the nurseries were already bearing
+considerable crops. But what you gain in time is perhaps in this case,
+too, lost in power,--that is, in the vigor of the tree. This is their
+pyramidal state.
+
+The cows continue to browse them thus for twenty years or more, keeping
+them down and compelling them to spread, until at last they are so
+broad that they become their own fence, when some interior shoot, which
+their foes cannot reach, darts upward with joy: for it has not
+forgotten its high calling, and bears its own peculiar fruit in triumph.
+
+Such are the tactics by which it finally defeats its bovine foes. Now,
+if you have watched the progress of a particular shrub, you will see
+that it is no longer a simple pyramid or cone, but out of its apex
+there rises a sprig or two, growing more lustily perchance than an
+orchard-tree, since the plant now devotes the whole of its repressed
+energy to these upright parts. In a short time these become a small
+tree, an inverted pyramid resting on the apex of the other, so that the
+whole has now the form of a vast hour-glass. The spreading bottom,
+having served its purpose, finally disappears, and the generous tree
+permits the now harmless cows to come in and stand in its shade, and
+rub against and redden its trunk, which has grown in spite of them, and
+even to taste a part of its fruit, and so disperse the seed.
+
+Thus the cows create their own shade and food; and the tree, its
+hour-glass being inverted, lives a second life, as it were.
+
+It is an important question with some nowadays, whether you should trim
+young apple-trees as high as your nose or as high as your eyes. The ox
+trims them up as high as he can reach, and that is about the right
+height, I think.
+
+In spite of wandering kine and other adverse circumstance, that
+despised shrub, valued only by small birds as a covert and shelter from
+hawks, has its blossom-week at last, and in course of time its harvest,
+sincere, though small.
+
+By the end of some October, when its leaves have fallen, I frequently
+see such a central sprig, whose progress I have watched, when I thought
+it had forgotten its destiny, as I had, bearing its first crop of small
+green or yellow or rosy fruit, which the cows cannot get at over the
+bushy and thorny hedge which surrounds it; and I make haste to taste
+the new and undescribed variety. We have all heard of the numerous
+varieties of fruit invented by Van Mons[9] and Knight.[10] This is the
+system of Van Cow, and she has invented far more and more memorable
+varieties than both of them.
+
+[9] A Belgian chemist and horticulturist.
+
+[10] An English vegetable physiologist.
+
+Through what hardships it may attain to bear a sweet fruit! Though
+somewhat small, it may prove equal, if not superior, in flavor to that
+which has grown in a garden,--will perchance be all the sweeter and
+more palatable for the very difficulties it has had to contend with.
+Who knows but this chance wild fruit, planted by a cow or a bird on
+some remote and rocky hillside, where it is as yet unobserved by man,
+may be the choicest of all its kind, and foreign potentates shall hear
+of it, and royal societies seek to propagate it, though the virtues of
+the perhaps truly crabbed owner of the soil may never be heard of,--at
+least, beyond the limits of his village? It was thus the Porter and the
+Baldwin grew.
+
+Every wild-apple shrub excites our expectation thus, somewhat as every
+wild child. It is, perhaps, a prince in disguise. What a lesson to man!
+So are human beings, referred to the highest standard, the celestial
+fruit which they suggest and aspire to bear, browsed on by fate; and
+only the most persistent and strongest genius defends itself and
+prevails, sends a tender scion upward at last, and drops its perfect
+fruit on the ungrateful earth. Poets and philosophers and statesmen
+thus spring up in the country pastures, and outlast the hosts of
+unoriginal men.
+
+Such is always the pursuit of knowledge. The celestial fruits, the
+golden apples of the Hesperides, are ever guarded by a hundred-headed
+dragon which never sleeps, so that it is an herculean labor to pluck
+them.
+
+This is one and the most remarkable way in which the wild apple is
+propagated; but commonly it springs up at wide intervals in woods and
+swamps, and by the sides of roads, as the soil may suit it, and grows
+with comparative rapidity. Those which grow in dense woods are very
+tall and slender. I frequently pluck from these trees a perfectly mild
+and tamed fruit. As Palladius says, "And the ground is strewn with the
+fruit of an unbidden apple-tree."
+
+It is an old notion, that, if these wild trees do not bear a valuable
+fruit of their own, they are the best stocks by which to transmit to
+posterity the most highly prized qualities of others. However, I am not
+in search of stocks, but the wild fruit itself, whose fierce gust has
+suffered no "inteneration." It is not my
+
+     "highest plot
+   To plant the Bergamot."
+
+
+
+
+THE FRUIT, AND ITS FLAVOR.
+
+
+The time for wild apples is the last of October and the first of
+November. They then get to be palatable, for they ripen late, and they
+are still, perhaps, as beautiful as ever. I make a great account of
+these fruits, which the farmers do not think it worth the while to
+gather,--wild flavors of the Muse, vivacious and inspiriting. The
+farmer thinks that he has better in his barrels; but he is mistaken,
+unless he has a walker's appetite and imagination, neither of which can
+he have.
+
+Such as grow quite wild, and are left out till the first of November, I
+presume that the owner does not mean to gather. They belong to children
+as wild as themselves,--to certain active boys that I know,--to the
+wild-eyed woman of the fields, to whom nothing comes amiss, who gleans
+after all the world,--and, moreover, to us walkers. We have met with
+them, and they are ours. These rights, long enough insisted upon, have
+come to be an institution in some old countries, where they have
+learned how to live. I hear that "the custom of grippling, which may be
+called apple-gleaning, is, or was formerly, practised in Herefordshire.
+It consists in leaving a few apples, which are called the gripples, on
+every tree, after the general gathering, for the boys, who go with
+climbing-poles and bags to collect them."
+
+As for those I speak of, I pluck them as a wild fruit, native to this
+quarter of the earth,--fruit of old trees that have been dying ever
+since I was a boy and are not yet dead, frequented only by the
+wood-pecker and the squirrel, deserted now by the owner, who has not
+faith enough to look under their boughs. From the appearance of the
+tree-top, at a little distance, you would expect nothing but lichens to
+drop from it, but your faith is rewarded by finding the ground strewn
+with spirited fruit,--some of it, perhaps, collected at squirrel-holes,
+with the marks of their teeth by which they carried them,--some
+containing a cricket or two silently feeding within, and some,
+especially in damp days, a shelless snail. The very sticks and stones
+lodged in the tree-top might have convinced you of the savoriness of
+the fruit which has been so eagerly sought after in past years.
+
+I have seen no account of these among the "Fruits and Fruit-Trees of
+America," though they are more memorable to my taste than the grafted
+kinds; more racy and wild American flavors do they possess, when
+October and November, when December and January, and perhaps February
+and March even, have assuaged them somewhat. An old farmer in my
+neighborhood, who always selects the right word, says that "they have a
+kind of bow-arrow tang."
+
+Apples for grafting appear to have been selected commonly, not so much
+for their spirited flavor, as for their mildness, their size, and
+bearing qualities,--not so much for their beauty, as for their fairness
+and soundness. Indeed, I have no faith in the selected lists of
+pomological gentlemen. Their "Favorites" and "Non-suches" and
+"Seek-no-farthers," when I have fruited them, commonly turn out very
+tame and forgetable. They are eaten with comparatively little zest, and
+have no real tang nor smack to them.
+
+What if some of these wildings are acrid and puckery, genuine verjuice,
+do they not still belong to the Pomaceae, which are uniformly innocent
+and kind to our race? I still begrudge them to the cider-mill. Perhaps
+they are not fairly ripe yet.
+
+No wonder that these small and high-colored apples are thought to make
+the best cider. Loudon quotes from the Herefordshire Report that
+"apples of a small size are always, if equal in quality, to be
+preferred to those of a larger size, in order that the rind and kernel
+may bear the greatest proportion to the pulp, which affords the weakest
+and most watery juice." And he says, that, "to prove this, Dr. Symonds
+of Hereford, about the year 1800, made one hogshead of cider entirely
+from the rinds and cores of apples, and another from the pulp only,
+when the first was found of extraordinary strength and flavor, while
+the latter was sweet and insipid."
+
+Evelyn[11] says that the "Red-strake" was the favorite cider-apple in
+his day; and he quotes one Dr. Newburg as saying, "In Jersey 't is a
+general observation, as I hear, that the more of red any apple has in
+its rind, the more proper it is for this use. Pale-faced apples they
+exclude as much as may be from their cider-vat." This opinion still
+prevails.
+
+[11] An English writer of the seventeenth century.
+
+All apples are good in November. Those which the farmer leaves out as
+unsalable, and unpalatable to those who frequent the markets, are
+choicest fruit to the walker. But it is remarkable that the wild apple,
+which I praise as so spirited and racy when eaten in the fields or
+woods, being brought into the house, has frequently a harsh and crabbed
+taste. The Saunter-er's Apple not even the saunterer can eat in the
+house. The palate rejects it there, as it does haws and acorns, and
+demands a tamed one; for there you miss the November air, which is the
+sauce it is to be eaten with. Accordingly, when Tityrus, seeing the
+lengthening shadows, invites Meliboeus to go home and pass the night
+with him, he promises him mild apples and soft chestnuts. I frequently
+pluck wild apples of so rich and spicy a flavor that I wonder all
+orchardists do not get a scion from that tree, and I fail not to bring
+home my pockets full. But perchance, when I take one out of my desk and
+taste it in my chamber I find it unexpectedly crude,--sour enough to
+set a squirrel's teeth on edge and make a jay scream.
+
+These apples have hung in the wind and frost and rain till they have
+absorbed the qualities of the weather or season, and thus are highly
+seasoned, and they pierce and sting and permeate us with their spirit.
+They must be eaten in season, accordingly,--that is, out-of-doors.
+
+To appreciate the wild and sharp flavors of these October fruits, it is
+necessary that you be breathing the sharp October or November air. The
+out-door air and exercise which the walker gets give a different tone
+to his palate, and he craves a fruit which the sedentary would call
+harsh and crabbed. They must be eaten in the fields, when your system
+is all aglow with exercise, when the frosty weather nips your fingers,
+the wind rattles the bare boughs or rustles the few remaining leaves,
+and the jay is heard screaming around. What is sour in the house a
+bracing walk makes sweet. Some of these apples might be labelled, "To
+be eaten in the wind."
+
+Of course no flavors are thrown away; they are intended for the taste
+that is up to them. Some apples have two distinct flavors, and perhaps
+one-half of them must be eaten in the house, the other out-doors. One
+Peter Whitney wrote from Northborough in 1782, for the Proceedings of
+the Boston Academy, describing an apple-tree in that town "producing
+fruit of opposite qualities, part of the same apple being frequently
+sour and the other sweet;" also some all sour, and others all sweet,
+and this diversity on all parts of the tree.
+
+There is a wild apple on Nawshawtuck Hill in my town which has to me a
+peculiarly pleasant bitter tang, not perceived till it is
+three-quarters tasted. It remains on the tongue. As you eat it, it
+smells exactly like a squash-bug. It is a sort of triumph to eat and
+relish it.
+
+I hear that the fruit of a kind of plum-tree in Provence is "called
+Prunes sibarelles, because it is impossible to whistle after having
+eaten them, from their sourness." But perhaps they were only eaten in
+the house and in summer, and if tried out-of-doors in a stinging
+atmosphere, who knows but you could whistle an octave higher and
+clearer?
+
+In the fields only are the sours and bitters of Nature appreciated;
+just as the wood-chopper eats his meal in a sunny glade, in the middle
+of a winter day, with content, basks in a sunny ray there, and dreams
+of summer in a degree of cold which, experienced in a chamber, would
+make a student miserable. They who are at work abroad are not cold, but
+rather it is they who sit shivering in houses. As with temperatures, so
+with flavors; as with cold and heat, so with sour and sweet. This
+natural raciness, the sours and bitters which the diseased palate
+refuses, are the true condiments.
+
+Let your condiments be in the condition of your senses. To appreciate
+the flavor of these wild apples requires vigorous and healthy senses,
+papillae[12] firm and erect on the tongue and palate, not easily
+flattened and tamed.
+
+[12] A Latin word, accent on the second syllable, meaning here the
+rough surface of the tongue and palate.
+
+From my experience with wild apples, I can understand that there may be
+reason for a savage's preferring many kinds of food which the civilized
+man rejects. The former has the palate of an outdoor man. It takes a
+savage or wild taste to appreciate a wild fruit.
+
+What a healthy out-of-door appetite it takes to relish the apple of
+life, the apple of the world, then!
+
+    "Nor is it every apple I desire,
+       Nor that which pleases every palate best;
+    'T is not the lasting Deuxan I require,
+       Nor yet the red-cheeked Greening I request,
+     Nor that which first beshrewed the name of wife,
+     Nor that whose beauty caused the golden strife:
+     No, no! bring me an apple from the tree of life."
+
+So there is one thought for the field, another for the house. I would
+have my thoughts, like wild apples, to be food for walkers, and will
+not warrant them to be palatable, if tasted in the house.
+
+
+
+
+THEIR BEAUTY.
+
+
+Almost all wild apples are handsome. They cannot be too gnarly and
+crabbed and rusty to look at. The gnarliest will have some redeeming
+traits even to the eye. You will discover some evening redness dashed
+or sprinkled on some protuberance or in some cavity. It is rare that
+the summer lets an apple go without streaking or spotting it on some
+part of its sphere. It will have some red stains, commemorating the
+mornings and evenings it has witnessed; some dark and rusty blotches,
+in memory of the clouds and foggy, mildewy days that have passed over
+it; and a spacious field of green reflecting the general face of
+Nature,--green even as the fields; or a yellow ground, which implies a
+milder flavor,--yellow as the harvest, or russet as the hills.
+
+Apples, these I mean, unspeakably fair,--apples not of Discord, but
+Concord! Yet not so rare but that the homeliest may have a share.
+Painted by the frosts, some a uniform clear bright yellow, or red, or
+crimson, as if their spheres had regularly revolved, and enjoyed the
+influence of the sun on all sides alike,--some with the faintest pink
+blush imaginable,--some brindled with deep red streaks like a cow, or
+with hundreds of fine blood-red rays running regularly from the
+stem-dimple to the blossom-end, like meridional lines, on a
+straw-colored ground,--some touched with a greenish rust, like a fine
+lichen, here and there, with crimson blotches or eyes more or less
+confluent and fiery when wet,--and others gnarly, and freckled or
+peppered all over on the stem side with fine crimson spots on a white
+ground, as if accidentally sprinkled from the brush of Him who paints
+the autumn leaves. Others, again, are sometimes red inside, perfused
+with a beautiful blush, fairy food, too beautiful to eat,--apple of the
+Hesperides, apple of the evening sky! But like shells and pebbles on
+the sea-shore, they must be seen as they sparkle amid the withering
+leaves in some dell in the woods, in the autumnal air, or as they lie
+in the wet grass, and not when they have wilted and faded in the house.
+
+
+
+
+THE NAMING OF THEM.
+
+
+It would be a pleasant pastime to find suitable names for the hundred
+varieties which go to a single heap at the cider-mill. Would it not tax
+a man's invention,--no one to be named after a man, and all in the
+lingua vernacula?[13] Who shall stand god-father at the christening of
+the wild apples? It would exhaust the Latin and Greek languages, if
+they were used, and make the lingua vernacula flag. We should have to
+call in the sunrise and the sunset, the rainbow and the autumn woods
+and the wild flowers, and the woodpecker and the purple finch, and the
+squirrel and the jay and the butterfly, the November traveller and the
+truant boy, to our aid.
+
+[13] Lingua vernacula, common speech.
+
+In 1836 there were in the garden of the London Horticultural Society
+more than fourteen hundred distinct sorts. But here are species which
+they have not in their catalogue, not to mention the varieties which
+our Crab might yield to cultivation. Let us enumerate a few of these. I
+find myself compelled, after all, to give the Latin names of some for
+the benefit of those who live where English is not spoken,--for they
+are likely to have a world-wide reputation.
+
+There is, first of all, the Wood-Apple (Malus sylvatica); the Blue-Jay
+Apple; the Apple which grows in Dells in the Woods (sylvestrivallis),
+also in Hollows in Pastures (campestrivallis); the Apple that grows in
+an old Cellar-Hole (Malus cellaris); the Meadow-Apple; the
+Partridge-Apple; the Truant's Apple (Cessatoris), which no boy will
+ever go by without knocking off some, however late it may be; the
+Saunterer's Apple,--you must lose yourself before you can find the way
+to that; the Beauty of the Air (Decks Aeris); December-Eating; the
+Frozen-Thawed (gelato-soluta), good only in that state; the Concord
+Apple, possibly the same with the Musketa-quidensis; the Assabet Apple;
+the Brindled Apple; Wine of New England; the Chickaree Apple; the Green
+Apple (Malus viridis);--this has many synonyms; in an imperfect state,
+it is the Cholera morbifera aut dysenterifera, puerulis
+dilectissima;[14]--the Apple which Atalanta stopped to pick up; the
+Hedge-Apple (Malus Sepium); the Slug-Apple (limacea); the
+Railroad-Apple, which perhaps came from a core thrown out of the cars;
+the Apple whose Fruit we tasted in our Youth; our Particular Apple, not
+to be found in any catalogue,--Pedestrium Solatium;[15] also the Apple
+where hangs the Forgotten Scythe; Iduna's Apples, and the Apples which
+Loki found in the Wood;[16] and a great many more I have on my list,
+too numerous to mention,--all of them good. As Bodaeus exclaims,
+referring to the culti-vated kinds, and adapting Virgil to his case, so
+I, adapting Bodaeus,--
+
+   "Not if I had a hundred tongues, a hundred mouths,
+    An iron voice, could I describe all the forms
+    And reckon up all the names of these wild apples."
+
+
+[14] The apple that brings the disease of cholera and of dysentery, the
+fruit that small boys like best.
+
+[15] The tramp's comfort.
+
+[16] See p. 172 (Proof readers note: paragraph 25)
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST GLEANING.
+
+
+By the middle of November the wild apples have lost some of their
+brilliancy, and have chiefly fallen. A great part are decayed on the
+ground, and the sound ones are more palatable than before. The note of
+the chickadee sounds now more distinct, as you wander amid the old
+trees, and the autumnal dandelion is half-closed and tearful. But
+still, if you are a skilful gleaner, you may get many a pocket-full
+even of grafted fruit, long after apples are supposed to be gone
+out-of-doors. I know a Blue-Pearmain tree, growing within the edge of a
+swamp, almost as good as wild. You would not suppose that there was any
+fruit left there, on the first survey, but you must look according to
+system. Those which lie exposed are quite brown and rotten now, or
+perchance a few still show one blooming cheek here and there amid the
+wet leaves. Nevertheless, with experienced eyes, I explore amid the
+bare alders and the huckleberry-bushes and the withered sedge, and in
+the crevices of the rocks, which are full of leaves, and pry under the
+fallen and decaying ferns, which, with apple and alder leaves, thickly
+strew the ground. For I know that they lie concealed, fallen into
+hollows long since and covered up by the leaves of the tree itself,--a
+proper kind of packing. From these lurking-places, anywhere within the
+circumference of the tree, I draw forth the fruit, all wet and glossy,
+maybe nibbled by rabbits and hollowed out by crickets and perhaps with
+a leaf or two cemented to it (as Curzon[17] an old manuscript from a
+monastery's mouldy cellar), but still with a rich bloom on it, and at
+least as ripe and well kept, if not better than those in barrels, more
+crisp and lively than they. If these resources fail to yield anything,
+I have learned to look between the bases of the suckers which spring
+thickly from some horizontal limb, for now and then one lodges there,
+or in the very midst of an alder-clump, where they are covered by
+leaves, safe from cows which may have smelled them out. If I am
+sharp-set, for I do not refuse the Blue-Pearmain, I fill my pockets on
+each side; and as I retrace my steps in the frosty eve, being perhaps
+four or five miles from home, I eat one first from this side, and then
+from that, to keep my balance.
+
+[17] Robert Curzon was a traveller who searched for old manuscripts in
+the monasteries of the Levant. See his book, Ancient Monasteries of the
+East.
+
+I learn from Topsell's Gesner, whose authority appears to be Albertus,
+that the following is the way in which the hedgehog collects and
+carries home his apples. He says: "His meat is apples, worms, or
+grapes: when he findeth apples or grapes on the earth, he rolleth
+himself upon them, until he have filled all his prickles, and then
+carrieth them home to his den, never bearing above one in his mouth;
+and if it fortune that one of them fall off by the way, he likewise
+shaketh off all the residue, and walloweth upon them afresh, until they
+be all settled upon his back again. So, forth he goeth, making a noise
+like a cart-wheel; and if he have any young ones in his nest, they pull
+off his load wherewithal he is loaded, eating thereof what they please,
+and laying up the residue for the time to come."
+
+
+
+
+THE "FROZEN-THAWED" APPLE.
+
+
+Toward the end of November, though some of the sound ones are yet more
+mellow and perhaps more edible, they have generally, like the leaves,
+lost their beauty, and are beginning to freeze. It is finger-cold, and
+prudent farmers get in their barrelled apples, and bring you the apples
+and cider which they have engaged; for it is time to put them into the
+cellar. Perhaps a few on the ground show their red cheeks above the
+early snow, and occasionally some even preserve their color and
+soundness under the snow throughout the winter. But generally at the
+beginning of the winter they freeze hard, and soon, though undecayed,
+acquire the color of a baked apple.
+
+Before the end of December, generally, they experience their first
+thawing. Those which a month ago were sour, crabbed, and quite
+unpalatable to the civilized taste, such at least as were frozen while
+sound, let a warmer sun come to thaw them, for they are extremely
+sensitive to its rays, are found to be filled with a rich, sweet cider,
+better than any bottled cider that I know of, and with which I am
+better acquainted than with wine. All apples are good in this state,
+and your jaws are the cider-press. Others, which have more substance,
+are a sweet and luscious food,--in my opinion of more worth than the
+pine-apples which are imported from the West Indies. Those which lately
+even I tasted only to repent of it,--for I am semi-civilized,--which
+the farmer willingly left on the tree, I am now glad to find have the
+property of hanging on like the leaves of the young oaks. It is a way
+to keep cider sweet without boiling. Let the frost come to freeze them
+first, solid as stones, and then the rain or a warm winter day to thaw
+them, and they will seem to have borrowed a flavor from heaven through
+the medium of the air in which they hang. Or perchance you find, when
+you get home, that those which rattled in your pocket have thawed, and
+the ice is turned to cider. But after the third or fourth freezing and
+thawing they will not be found so good.
+
+What are the imported half-ripe fruits of the torrid South to this
+fruit matured by the cold of the frigid North? These are those crabbed
+apples with which I cheated my companion, and kept a smooth face that I
+might tempt him to eat. Now we both greedily fill our pockets with
+them,--bending to drink the cup and save our lappets from the
+overflowing juice,--and grow more social with their wine. Was there one
+that hung so high and sheltered by the tangled branches that our sticks
+could not dislodge it?
+
+It is a fruit never carried to market, that I am aware of,--quite
+distinct from the apple of the markets, as from dried apple and
+cider,--and it is not every winter that produces it in perfection.
+
+"Hear this, ye old men, and give ear, all ye in-habitants of the land!
+Hath this been in your days, or even in the days of your fathers?...
+
+"That which the palmer-worm hath left hath the locust eaten; and that
+which the locust hath left hath the canker-worm eaten; and that which
+the canker-worm hath left hath the caterpillar eaten.
+
+"Awake, ye drunkards, and weep! and howl, all ye drinkers of wine,
+because of the new wine! for it is cut off from your mouth.
+
+"For a nation is come up upon my land, strong, and without number,
+whose teeth are the teeth of a lion, and he hath the cheek-teeth of a
+great lion.
+
+"He hath laid my vine waste, and barked my fig-tree; he hath made it
+clean bare, and cast it away; the branches thereof are made white....
+
+"Be ye ashamed, O ye husbandmen! howl, O ye vine-dressers!...
+
+"The vine is dried up, and the fig-tree languisheth; the
+pomegranate-tree, the palm tree also, and the apple-tree, even all the
+trees of the field, are withered: because joy is withered away from the
+sons of men."[18]
+
+[18] Joel, chapter i., verses 1-12.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wild Apples, by Henry David Thoreau
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+Produced by Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
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+
+
+Wild Apples.
+
+By Henry David Thoreau
+
+
+
+
+
+THE HISTORY OF THE APPLE-TREE.
+
+
+
+
+It is remarkable how closely the history of the Apple-tree is
+connected with that of man. The geologist tells us that the order of
+the Rosaceae, which includes the Apple, also the true Grasses, and
+the Labiatae, or Mints, were introduced only a short time previous
+to the appearance of man on the globe.
+
+It appears that apples made a part of the food of that unknown
+primitive people whose traces have lately been found at the bottom
+of the Swiss lakes, supposed to be older than the foundation of
+Rome, so old that they had no metallic implements. An entire black
+and shrivelled Crab-Apple has been recovered from their stores.
+
+Tacitus says of the ancient Germans that they satisfied their hunger
+with wild apples, among other things.
+
+Niebuhr [Footnote: A German historical critic of ancient life.]
+observes that "the words for a house, a field, a plough, ploughing,
+wine, oil, milk, sheep, apples, and others relating to agriculture
+and the gentler ways of life, agree in Latin and Greek, while the
+Latin words for all objects pertaining to war or the chase are
+utterly alien from the Greek." Thus the apple-tree may be considered
+a symbol of peace no less than the olive.
+
+The apple was early so important, and so generally distributed, that
+its name traced to its root in many languages signifies fruit in
+general. maelon (Melon), in Greek, means an apple, also the fruit of
+other trees, also a sheep and any cattle, and finally riches in
+general.
+
+The apple-tree has been celebrated by the Hebrews, Greeks, Romans,
+and Scandinavians. Some have thought that the first human pair were
+tempted by its fruit. Goddesses are fabled to have contended for it,
+dragons were set to watch it, and heroes were employed to pluck it.
+[Footnote: The Greek myths especially referred to are The Choice of
+Paris and The Apples of the Hesperides.]
+
+The tree is mentioned in at least three places in the Old Testament,
+and its fruit in two or three more. Solomon sings, "As the apple-
+tree among the trees of the wood, so is my beloved among the sons."
+And again, "Stay me with flagons, comfort me with apples." The
+noblest part of man's noblest feature is named from this fruit, "the
+apple of the eye."
+
+The apple-tree is also mentioned by Homer and Herodotus. Ulysses saw
+in the glorious garden of Alcinous "pears and pomegranates and
+apple-trees bearing beautiful fruit." And according to Homer, apples
+were among the fruits which Tantalus could not pluck, the wind ever
+blowing their boughs away from him. Theophrastus knew and described
+the apple-tree as a botanist.
+
+According to the prose Edda, [Footnote: The stories of the early
+Scandinavians.] "Iduna keeps in a box the apples which the gods,
+when they feel old age approaching, have only to taste of to become
+young again. It is in this manner that they will be kept in
+renovated youth until Ragnarok" (or the destruction of the Gods).
+
+I learn from Loudon [Footnote: An English authority on the culture
+of orchards and gardens.] that "the ancient Welsh bards were
+rewarded for excelling in song by the token of the apple-spray;" and
+"in the Highlands of Scotland the apple-tree is the badge of the
+clan Lamont."
+
+The apple-tree belongs chiefly to the northern temperate zone.
+Loudon says, that "it grows spontaneously in every part of Europe
+except the frigid zone, and throughout Western Asia, China and
+Japan." We have also two or three varieties of the apple indigenous
+in North America. The cultivated apple-tree was first introduced
+into this country by the earliest settlers, and is thought to do as
+well or better here than anywhere else. Probably some of the
+varieties which are now cultivated were first introduced into
+Britain by the Romans.
+
+Pliny, adopting the distinction of Theophrastus, says, "Of trees
+there are some which are altogether wild, some more civilized."
+Theophrastus includes the apple among the last; and, indeed, it is
+in this sense the most civilized of all trees. It is as harmless as
+a dove, as beautiful as a rose, and as valuable as flocks and herds.
+It has been longer cultivated than any other, and so is more
+humanized; and who knows but, like the dog, it will at length be no
+longer traceable to its wild original? It migrates with man, like
+the dog and horse and cow; first, perchance, from Greece to Italy,
+thence to England, thence to America; and our Western emigrant is
+still marching steadily toward the setting sun with the seeds of the
+apple in his pocket, or perhaps a few young trees strapped to his
+load. At least a million apple-trees are thus set farther westward
+this year than any cultivated ones grew last year. Consider how the
+Blossom-Week, like the Sabbath, is thus annually spreading over the
+prairies; for when man migrates he carries with him not only his
+birds, quadrupeds, insects, vegetables, and his very sward, but his
+orchard also.
+
+The leaves and tender twigs are an agreeable food to many domestic
+animals, as the cow, horse, sheep, and goat; and the fruit is sought
+after by the first, as well as by the hog. Thus there appears to
+have existed a natural alliance between these animals and this tree
+from the first. "The fruit of the Crab in the forests of France" is
+said to be "a great resource for the wild boar."
+
+Not only the Indian, but many indigenous insects, birds, and
+quadrupeds, welcomed the apple-tree to these shores. The tent-
+caterpillar saddled her eggs on the very first twig that was formed,
+and it has since shared her affections with the wild cherry; and the
+canker-worm also in a measure abandoned the elm to feed on it. As it
+grew apace, the bluebird, robin, cherry-bird, king-bird, and many
+more, came with haste and built their nests and warbled in its
+boughs, and so became orchard-birds, and multiplied more than ever.
+It was an era in the history of their race. The downy woodpecker
+found such a savory morsel under its bark, that he perforated it in
+a ring quite round the tree before be left it,--a thing which he had
+never done before, to my knowledge. It did not take the partridge
+long to find out how sweet its buds were, and every winter eve she
+flew, and still flies, from the wood, to pluck them, much to the
+farmer's sorrow. The rabbit, too, was not slow to learn the taste of
+its twigs and bark; and when the fruit was ripe, the squirrel half-
+rolled, half-carried it to his hole; and even the musquash crept up
+the bank from the brook at evening, and greedily devoured it, until
+he had worn a path in the grass there; and when it was frozen and
+thawed, the crow and the jay were glad to taste it occasionally. The
+owl crept into the first apple-tree that became hollow, and fairly
+hooted with delight, finding it just the place for him; so, settling
+down into it, he has remained there ever since.
+
+My theme being the Wild Apple, I will merely glance at some of the
+seasons in the annual growth of the cultivated apple, and pass on to
+my special province.
+
+The flowers of the apple are perhaps the most beautiful of any tree,
+so copious and so delicious to both sight and scent. The walker is
+frequently tempted to turn and linger near some more than usually
+handsome one, whose blossoms are two thirds expanded. How superior
+it is in these respects to the pear, whose blossoms are neither
+colored nor fragrant!
+
+By the middle of July, green apples are so large as to remind us of
+coddling, and of the autumn. The sward is commonly strewed with
+little ones which fall still-born, as it were,--Nature thus thinning
+them for us. The Roman writer Palladius said: "If apples are
+inclined to fall before their time, a stone placed in a split root
+will retain them." Some such notion, still surviving, may account
+for some of the stones which we see placed to be overgrown in the
+forks of trees. They have a saying in Suffolk, England,--
+
+    "At Michaelmas time, or a little before,
+     Half an apple goes to the core."
+
+Early apples begin to be ripe about the first of August; but I think
+that none of them are so good to eat as some to smell. One is worth
+more to scent your handkerchief with than any perfume which they
+sell in the shops. The fragrance of some fruits is not to be
+forgotten, along with that of flowers. Some gnarly apple which I
+pick up in the road reminds me by its fragrance of all the wealth of
+Pomona, [Footnote: The Roman goddess of fruit and fruit-trees.]--
+carrying me forward to those days when they will be collected in
+golden and ruddy heaps in the orchards and about the cider-mills.
+
+A week or two later, as you are going by orchards or gardens,
+especially in the evenings, you pass through a little region
+possessed by the fragrance of ripe apples, and thus enjoy them
+without price, and without robbing anybody.
+
+There is thus about all natural products a certain volatile and
+ethereal quality which represents their highest value, and which
+cannot be vulgarized, or bought and sold. No mortal has ever enjoyed
+the perfect flavor of any fruit, and only the godlike among men
+begin to taste its ambrosial qualities. For nectar and ambrosia are
+only those fine flavors of every earthly fruit which our coarse
+palates fail to perceive,--just as we occupy the heaven of the gods
+without knowing it. When I see a particularly mean man carrying a
+load of fair and fragrant early apples to market, I seem to see a
+contest going on between him and his horse, on the one side, and the
+apples on the other, and, to my mind, the apples always gain it.
+Pliny says that apples are the heaviest of all things, and that the
+oxen begin to sweat at the mere sight of a load of them. Our driver
+begins to lose his load the moment he tries to transport them to
+where they do not belong, that is, to any but the most beautiful.
+Though he gets out from time to time, and feels of them, and thinks
+they are all there, I see the stream of their evanescent and
+celestial qualities going to heaven from his cart, while the pulp
+and skin and core only are going to market. They are not apples, but
+pomace. Are not these still Iduna's apples, the taste of which keeps
+the gods forever young? and think you that they will let Loki or
+Thjassi carry them off to Jotunheim, [Footnote: Jotunheim (Ye(r)t'-
+un-hime) in Scandinavian mythology was the home of the Jotun or
+Giants. Loki was a descendant of the gods, and a companion of the
+Giants. Thjassi (Tee-assy) was a giant.] while they grow wrinkled
+and gray? No, for Ragnarok, or the destruction of the gods, is not
+yet.
+
+There is another thinning of the fruit, commonly near the end of
+August or in September, when the ground is strewn with windfalls;
+and this happens especially when high winds occur after rain. In
+some orchards you may see fully three quarters of the whole crop on
+the ground, lying in a circular form beneath the trees, yet hard and
+green,--or, if it is a hillside, rolled far down the hill. However,
+it is an ill wind that blows nobody any good. All the country over,
+people are busy picking up the windfalls, and this will make them
+cheap for early apple-pies.
+
+In October, the leaves falling, the apples are more distinct on the
+trees. I saw one year in a neighboring town some trees fuller of
+fruit than I remember to have ever seen before, small yellow apples
+hanging over the road. The branches were gracefully drooping with
+their weight, like a barberry-bush, so that the whole tree acquired
+a new character. Even the topmost branches, instead of standing
+erect, spread and drooped in all directions; and there were so many
+poles supporting the lower ones, that they looked like pictures of
+banian-trees. As an old English manuscript says, "The mo appelen the
+tree bereth the more sche boweth to the folk."
+
+Surely the apple is the noblest of fruits. Let the most beautiful or
+the swiftest have it. That should be the "going" price of apples.
+
+Between the fifth and twentieth of October I see the barrels lie
+under the trees. And perhaps I talk with one who is selecting some
+choice barrels to fulfil an order. He turns a specked one over many
+times before he leaves it out. If I were to tell what is passing in
+my mind, I should say that every one was specked which he had
+handled; for he rubs off all the bloom, and those fugacious ethereal
+qualities leave it. Cool evenings prompt the farmers to make haste,
+and at length I see only the ladders here and there left leaning
+against the trees.
+
+It would be well if we accepted these gifts with more joy and
+gratitude, and did not think it enough simply to put a fresh load of
+compost about the tree. Some old English customs are suggestive at
+least. I find them described chiefly in Brand's "Popular
+Antiquities." It appears that "on Christmas eve the farmers and
+their men in Devonshire take a large bowl of cider, with a toast in
+it, and carrying it in state to the orchard, they salute the apple-
+trees with much ceremony, in order to make them bear well the next
+season." This salutation consists in "throwing some of the cider
+about the roots of the tree, placing bits of the toast on the
+branches," and then, "encircling one of the best bearing trees in
+the orchard, they drink the following toast three several times:--
+
+      "'Here's to thee, old apple-tree,
+     Whence thou mayst bud, and whence thou mayst blow,
+     And whence thou mayst bear apples enow!
+        Hats-full! caps-full!
+        Bushel, bushel, sacks-full!
+        And my pockets full, too! Hurra!'"
+
+
+Also what was called "apple-howling" used to be practised in various
+counties of England on New-Year's eve. A troop of boys visited the
+different orchards, and, encircling the apple-trees, repeated the
+following words:--
+
+    "Stand fast, root! bear well, top!
+     Pray God send us a good howling crop:
+     Every twig, apples big;
+     Every bow, apples enow!"
+
+
+"They then shout in chorus, one of the boys accompanying them on a
+cow's horn. During this ceremony they rap the trees with their
+sticks." This is called "wassailing" the trees, and is thought by
+some to be "a relic of the heathen sacrifice to Pomona."
+
+  Herrick sings,--
+
+    "Wassaile the trees that they may beare
+     You many a plum and many a peare;
+     For more or less fruits they will bring
+     As you so give them wassailing."
+
+Our poets have as yet a better right to sing of cider than of wine;
+but it behooves them to sing better than English Phillips did, else
+they will do no credit to their Muse.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE WILD APPLE.
+
+
+
+
+So much for the more civilized apple-trees (urbaniores, as Pliny
+calls them). I love better to go through the old orchards of
+ungrafted apple-trees, at whatever season of the year,--so
+irregularly planted: sometimes two trees standing close together;
+and the rows so devious that you would think that they not only had
+grown while the owner was sleeping, but had been set out by him in a
+somnambulic state. The rows of grafted fruit will never tempt me to
+wander amid them like these. But I now, alas, speak rather from
+memory than from any recent experience, such ravages have been made!
+
+Some soils, like a rocky tract called the Easterbrooks Country in my
+neighborhood, are so suited to the apple, that it will grow faster
+in them without any care, or if only the ground is broken up once a
+year, than it will in many places with any amount of care. The
+owners of this tract allow that the soil is excellent for fruit, but
+they say that it is so rocky that they have not patience to plough
+it, and that, together with the distance, is the reason why it is
+not cultivated. There are, or were recently, extensive orchards
+there standing without order. Nay, they spring up wild and bear well
+there in the midst of pines, birches, maples, and oaks. I am often
+surprised to see rising amid these trees the rounded tops of apple-
+trees glowing with red or yellow fruit, in harmony with the autumnal
+tints of the forest.
+
+Going up the side of a cliff about the first of November, I saw a
+vigorous young apple-tree, which, planted by birds or cows, had shot
+up amid the rocks and open woods there, and had now much fruit on
+it, uninjured by the frosts, when all cultivated apples were
+gathered. It was a rank wild growth, with many green leaves on it
+still, and made an impression of thorniness. The fruit was hard and
+green, but looked as if it would be palatable in the winter. Some
+was dangling on the twigs, but more half-buried in the wet leaves
+under the tree, or rolled far down the hill amid the rocks. The
+owner knows nothing of it. The day was not observed when it first
+blossomed, nor when it first bore fruit, unless by the chickadee.
+There was no dancing on the green beneath it in its honor, and now
+there is no hand to pluck its fruit,--which is only gnawed by
+squirrels, as I perceive. It has done double duty,--not only borne
+this crop, but each twig has grown a foot into the air. And this is
+such fruit! bigger than many berries, we must admit, and carried
+home will be sound and palatable next spring. What care I for
+Iduna's apples so long as I can get these?
+
+When I go by this shrub thus late and hardy, and see its dangling
+fruit, I respect the tree, and I am grateful for Nature's bounty,
+even though I cannot eat it. Here on this rugged and woody hillside
+has grown an apple-tree, not planted by man, no relic of a former
+orchard, but a natural growth, like the pines and oaks. Most fruits
+which we prize and use depend entirely on our care. Corn and grain,
+potatoes, peaches, melons, etc., depend altogether on our planting;
+but the apple emulates man's independence and enterprise. It is not
+simply carried, as I have said, but, like him, to some extent, it
+has migrated to this New World, and is even, here and there, making
+its way amid the aboriginal trees; just as the ox and dog and horse
+sometimes run wild and maintain themselves.
+
+Even the sourest and crabbedest apple, growing in the most
+unfavorable position, suggests such thoughts as these, it is so
+noble a fruit.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE CRAB.
+
+
+
+
+Nevertheless, our wild apple is wild only like myself, perchance,
+who belong not to the aboriginal race here, but have strayed into
+the woods from the cultivated stock. Wilder still, as I have said,
+there grows elsewhere in this country a native and aboriginal Crab-
+Apple, "whose nature has not yet been modified by cultivation." It
+is found from Western New York to Minnesota and southward. Michaux
+[Footnote: Pronounced mee-sho; a French botanist and traveller.]
+says that its ordinary height "is fifteen or eighteen feet, but it
+is sometimes found twenty-five or thirty feet high," and that the
+large ones "exactly resemble the common apple-tree." "The flowers
+are white mingled with rose-color, and are collected in corymbs."
+They are remarkable for their delicious odor. The fruit, according
+to him, is about an inch and a half in diameter, and is intensely
+acid. Yet they make fine sweet-meats, and also cider of them. He
+concludes, that "if, on being cultivated, it does not yield new and
+palatable varieties, it will at least be celebrated for the beauty
+of its flowers, and for the sweetness of its perfume."
+
+I never saw the Crab-Apple till May, 1861. I had heard of it through
+Michaux, but more modern botanists, so far as I know, have not
+treated it as of any peculiar importance. Thus it was a half-
+fabulous tree to me. I contemplated a pilgrimage to the "Glades," a
+portion of Pennsylvania, where it was said to grow to perfection. I
+thought of sending to a nursery for it, but doubted if they had it,
+or would distinguish it from European varieties. At last I had
+occasion to go to Minnesota, and on entering Michigan I began to
+notice from the cars a tree with handsome rose-colored flowers. At
+first I thought it some variety of thorn; but it was not long before
+the truth flashed on me, that this was my long-sought Crab-Apple. It
+was the prevailing flowering shrub or tree to be seen from the cars
+at that season of the year,--about the middle of May. But the cars
+never stopped before one, and so I was launched on the bosom of the
+Mississippi without having touched one, experiencing the fate of
+Tantalus. On arriving at St. Anthony's Falls, I was sorry to be told
+that I was too far north for the Crab-Apple. Nevertheless I
+succeeded in finding it about eight miles west of the Falls; touched
+it and smelled it, and secured a lingering corymb of flowers for my
+herbarium. This must have been near its northern limit.
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW THE WILD APPLE GROWS.
+
+
+
+
+But though these are indigenous, like the Indians, I doubt whether
+they are any hardier than those back-woodsmen among the apple-trees,
+which, though descended from cultivated stocks, plant themselves in
+distant fields and forests, where the soil is favorable to them. I
+know of no trees which have more difficulties to contend with, and
+which more sturdily resist their foes. These are the ones whose
+story we have to tell. It oftentimes reads thus :--
+
+Near the beginning of May, we notice little thickets of apple-trees
+just springing up in the pastures where cattle have been,--as the
+rocky ones of our Easter-brooks Country, or the top of Nobscot Hill
+in Sudbury. One or two of these perhaps survive the drought and
+other accidents,--their very birthplace defending them against the
+encroaching grass and some other dangers, at first.
+
+    In two years' time 't had thus
+     Reached the level of the rocks,
+    Admired the stretching world,
+     Nor feared the wandering flocks.
+
+    But at this tender age
+     Its sufferings began:
+    There came a browsing ox
+     And cut it down a span.
+
+This time, perhaps, the ox does not notice it amid the grass; but
+the next year, when it has grown more stout, he recognizes it for a
+fellow-emigrant from the old country, the flavor of whose leaves and
+twigs he well knows; and though at first he pauses to welcome it,
+and express his surprise, and gets for answer, "The same cause that
+brought you here brought me," he nevertheless browses it again,
+reflecting, it may be, that he has some title to it.
+
+Thus cut down annually, it does not despair; but, putting forth two
+short twigs for every one cut off, it spreads out low along the
+ground in the hollows or between the rocks, growing more stout and
+scrubby, until it forms, not a tree as yet, but a little pyramidal,
+stiff, twiggy mass, almost as solid and impenetrable as a rock. Some
+of the densest and most impenetrable clumps of bushes that I have
+ever seen, as well, on account of the closeness and stubbornness of
+their branches as of their thorns, have been these wild-apple
+scrubs. They are more like the scrubby fir and black spruce on which
+you stand, and sometimes walk, on the tops of mountains, where cold
+is the demon they contend with, than anything else. No wonder they
+are prompted to grow thorns at last, to defend themselves against
+such foes. In their thorniness, however, there is no malice, only
+some malic acid.
+
+The rocky pastures of the tract I have referred to--for they
+maintain their ground best in a rocky field--are thickly sprinkled
+with these little tufts, reminding you often of some rigid gray
+mosses or lichens, and you see thousands of little trees just
+springing up between them, with the seed still attached to them.
+
+Being regularly clipped all around each year by the cows, as a hedge
+with shears, they are often of a perfect conical or pyramidal form,
+from one to four feet high, and more or less sharp, as if trimmed by
+the gardener's art. In the pastures on Nobscot Hill and its spurs
+they make fine dark shadows when the sun is low. They are also an
+excellent covert from hawks for many small birds that roost and
+build in them. Whole flocks perch in them at night, and I have seen
+three robins' nests in one which was six feet in diameter.
+
+No doubt many of these are already old trees, if you reckon from the
+day they were planted, but infants still when you consider their
+development and the long life before them. I counted the annual
+rings of some which were just one foot high, and as wide as high,
+and found that they were about twelve years old, but quite sound and
+thrifty! They were so low that they were unnoticed by the walker,
+while many of their contemporaries from the nurseries were already
+bearing considerable crops. But what you gain in time is perhaps in
+this case, too, lost in power,--that is, in the vigor of the tree.
+This is their pyramidal state.
+
+The cows continue to browse them thus for twenty years or more,
+keeping them down and compelling them to spread, until at last they
+are so broad that they become their own fence, when some interior
+shoot, which their foes cannot reach, darts upward with joy: for it
+has not forgotten its high calling, and bears its own peculiar fruit
+in triumph.
+
+Such are the tactics by which it finally defeats its bovine foes.
+Now, if you have watched the progress of a particular shrub, you
+will see that it is no longer a simple pyramid or cone, but out of
+its apex there rises a sprig or two, growing more lustily perchance
+than an orchard-tree, since the plant now devotes the whole of its
+repressed energy to these upright parts. In a short time these
+become a small tree, an inverted pyramid resting on the apex of the
+other, so that the whole has now the form of a vast hour-glass. The
+spreading bottom, having served its purpose, finally disappears, and
+the generous tree permits the now harmless cows to come in and stand
+in its shade, and rub against and redden its trunk, which has grown
+in spite of them, and even to taste a part of its fruit, and so
+disperse the seed.
+
+Thus the cows create their own shade and food; and the tree, its
+hour-glass being inverted, lives a second life, as it were.
+
+It is an important question with some nowadays, whether you should
+trim young apple-trees as high as your nose or as high as your eyes.
+The ox trims them up as high as he can reach, and that is about the
+right height, I think.
+
+In spite of wandering kine and other adverse circumstance, that
+despised shrub, valued only by small birds as a covert and shelter
+from hawks, has its blossom-week at last, and in course of time its
+harvest, sincere, though small.
+
+By the end of some October, when its leaves have fallen, I
+frequently see such a central sprig, whose progress I have watched,
+when I thought it had forgotten its destiny, as I had, bearing its
+first crop of small green or yellow or rosy fruit, which the cows
+cannot get at over the bushy and thorny hedge which surrounds it;
+and I make haste to taste the new and undescribed variety. We have
+all heard of the numerous varieties of fruit invented by Van Mons
+[Footnote: A Belgian chemist and horticulturist.] and Knight.
+[Footnote: An English vegetable physiologist.] This is the system of
+Van Cow, and she has invented far more and more memorable varieties
+than both of them.
+
+Through what hardships it may attain to bear a sweet fruit! Though
+somewhat small, it may prove equal, if not superior, in flavor to
+that which has grown in a garden,--will perchance be all the sweeter
+and more palatable for the very difficulties it has had to contend
+with. Who knows but this chance wild fruit, planted by a cow or a
+bird on some remote and rocky hillside, where it is as yet
+unobserved by man, may be the choicest of all its kind, and foreign
+potentates shall hear of it, and royal societies seek to propagate
+it, though the virtues of the perhaps truly crabbed owner of the
+soil may never be heard of,--at least, beyond the limits of his
+village? It was thus the Porter and the Baldwin grew.
+
+Every wild-apple shrub excites our expectation thus, somewhat as
+every wild child. It is, perhaps, a prince in disguise. What a
+lesson to man! So are human beings, referred to the highest
+standard, the celestial fruit which they suggest and aspire to bear,
+browsed on by fate; and only the most persistent and strongest
+genius defends itself and prevails, sends a tender scion upward at
+last, and drops its perfect fruit on the ungrateful earth. Poets and
+philosophers and statesmen thus spring up in the country pastures,
+and outlast the hosts of unoriginal men.
+
+Such is always the pursuit of knowledge. The celestial fruits, the
+golden apples of the Hesperides, are ever guarded by a hundred-
+headed dragon which never sleeps, so that it is an herculean labor
+to pluck them.
+
+This is one and the most remarkable way in which the wild apple is
+propagated; but commonly it springs up at wide intervals in woods
+and swamps, and by the sides of roads, as the soil may suit it, and
+grows with comparative rapidity. Those which grow in dense woods are
+very tall and slender. I frequently pluck from these trees a
+perfectly mild and tamed fruit. As Palladius says, "And the ground
+is strewn with the fruit of an unbidden apple-tree."
+
+It is an old notion, that, if these wild trees do not bear a
+valuable fruit of their own, they are the best stocks by which to
+transmit to posterity the most highly prized qualities of others.
+However, I am not in search of stocks, but the wild fruit itself,
+whose fierce gust has suffered no "inteneration." It is not my
+
+     "highest plot
+   To plant the Bergamot."
+
+
+
+
+
+THE FRUIT, AND ITS FLAVOR.
+
+
+
+
+The time for wild apples is the last of October and the first of
+November. They then get to be palatable, for they ripen late, and
+they are still, perhaps, as beautiful as ever. I make a great
+account of these fruits, which the farmers do not think it worth the
+while to gather,--wild flavors of the Muse, vivacious and
+inspiriting. The farmer thinks that he has better in his barrels;
+but he is mistaken, unless he has a walker's appetite and
+imagination, neither of which can he have.
+
+Such as grow quite wild, and are left out till the first of
+November, I presume that the owner does not mean to gather. They
+belong to children as wild as themselves,--to certain active boys
+that I know,--to the wild-eyed woman of the fields, to whom nothing
+comes amiss, who gleans after all the world,--and, moreover, to us
+walkers. We have met with them, and they are ours. These rights,
+long enough insisted upon, have come to be an institution in some
+old countries, where they have learned how to live. I hear that "the
+custom of grippling, which may be called apple-gleaning, is, or was
+formerly, practised in Herefordshire. It consists in leaving a few
+apples, which are called the gripples, on every tree, after the
+general gathering, for the boys, who go with climbing-poles and bags
+to collect them."
+
+As for those I speak of, I pluck them as a wild fruit, native to
+this quarter of the earth,--fruit of old trees that have been dying
+ever since I was a boy and are not yet dead, frequented only by the
+wood-pecker and the squirrel, deserted now by the owner, who has not
+faith enough to look under their boughs. From the appearance of the
+tree-top, at a little distance, you would expect nothing but lichens
+to drop from it, but your faith is rewarded by finding the ground
+strewn with spirited fruit,--some of it, perhaps, collected at
+squirrel-holes, with the marks of their teeth by which they carried
+them,--some containing a cricket or two silently feeding within, and
+some, especially in damp days, a shelless snail. The very sticks and
+stones lodged in the tree-top might have convinced you of the
+savoriness of the fruit which has been so eagerly sought after in
+past years.
+
+I have seen no account of these among the "Fruits and Fruit-Trees of
+America," though they are more memorable to my taste than the
+grafted kinds; more racy and wild American flavors do they possess,
+when October and November, when December and January, and perhaps
+February and March even, have assuaged them somewhat. An old farmer
+in my neighborhood, who always selects the right word, says that
+"they have a kind of bow-arrow tang."
+
+Apples for grafting appear to have been selected commonly, not so
+much for their spirited flavor, as for their mildness, their size,
+and bearing qualities,--not so much for their beauty, as for their
+fairness and soundness. Indeed, I have no faith in the selected
+lists of pomological gentlemen. Their "Favorites" and "Non-suches"
+and "Seek-no-farthers," when I have fruited them, commonly turn out
+very tame and forgetable. They are eaten with comparatively little
+zest, and have no real tang nor smack to them.
+
+What if some of these wildings are acrid and puckery, genuine
+verjuice, do they not still belong to the Pomaceae, which are
+uniformly innocent and kind to our race? I still begrudge them to
+the cider-mill. Perhaps they are not fairly ripe yet.
+
+No wonder that these small and high-colored apples are thought to
+make the best cider. Loudon quotes from the Herefordshire Report
+that "apples of a small size are always, if equal in quality, to be
+preferred to those of a larger size, in order that the rind and
+kernel may bear the greatest proportion to the pulp, which affords
+the weakest and most watery juice." And he says, that, "to prove
+this, Dr. Symonds of Hereford, about the year 1800, made one
+hogshead of cider entirely from the rinds and cores of apples, and
+another from the pulp only, when the first was found of
+extraordinary strength and flavor, while the latter was sweet and
+insipid."
+
+Evelyn [Footnote: An English writer of the seventeenth century.]
+says that the "Red-strake" was the favorite cider-apple in his day;
+and he quotes one Dr. Newburg as saying, "In Jersey 't is a general
+observation, as I hear, that the more of red any apple has in its
+rind, the more proper it is for this use. Pale-faced apples they
+exclude as much as may be from their cider-vat." This opinion still
+prevails.
+
+All apples are good in November. Those which the farmer leaves out
+as unsalable, and unpalatable to those who frequent the markets, are
+choicest fruit to the walker. But it is remarkable that the wild
+apple, which I praise as so spirited and racy when eaten in the
+fields or woods, being brought into the house, has frequently a
+harsh and crabbed taste. The Saunter-er's Apple not even the
+saunterer can eat in the house. The palate rejects it there, as it
+does haws and acorns, and demands a tamed one; for there you miss
+the November air, which is the sauce it is to be eaten with.
+Accordingly, when Tityrus, seeing the lengthening shadows, invites
+Meliboeus to go home and pass the night with him, he promises him
+mild apples and soft chestnuts. I frequently pluck wild apples of so
+rich and spicy a flavor that I wonder all orchardists do not get a
+scion from that tree, and I fail not to bring home my pockets full.
+But perchance, when I take one out of my desk and taste it in my
+chamber I find it unexpectedly crude,--sour enough to set a
+squirrel's teeth on edge and make a jay scream.
+
+These apples have hung in the wind and frost and rain till they have
+absorbed the qualities of the weather or season, and thus are highly
+seasoned, and they pierce and sting and permeate us with their
+spirit. They must be eaten in season, accordingly,--that is, out-of-
+doors.
+
+To appreciate the wild and sharp flavors of these October fruits, it
+is necessary that you be breathing the sharp October or November
+air. The out-door air and exercise which the walker gets give a
+different tone to his palate, and he craves a fruit which the
+sedentary would call harsh and crabbed. They must be eaten in the
+fields, when your system is all aglow with exercise, when the frosty
+weather nips your fingers, the wind rattles the bare boughs or
+rustles the few remaining leaves, and the jay is heard screaming
+around. What is sour in the house a bracing walk makes sweet. Some
+of these apples might be labelled, "To be eaten in the wind."
+
+Of course no flavors are thrown away; they are intended for the
+taste that is up to them. Some apples have two distinct flavors, and
+perhaps one-half of them must be eaten in the house, the other out-
+doors. One Peter Whitney wrote from Northborough in 1782, for the
+Proceedings of the Boston Academy, describing an apple-tree in that
+town "producing fruit of opposite qualities, part of the same apple
+being frequently sour and the other sweet;" also some all sour, and
+others all sweet, and this diversity on all parts of the tree.
+
+There is a wild apple on Nawshawtuck Hill in my town which has to me
+a peculiarly pleasant bitter tang, not perceived till it is three-
+quarters tasted. It remains on the tongue. As you eat it, it smells
+exactly like a squash-bug. It is a sort of triumph to eat and relish
+it.
+
+I hear that the fruit of a kind of plum-tree in Provence is "called
+Prunes sibarelles, because it is impossible to whistle after having
+eaten them, from their sourness." But perhaps they were only eaten
+in the house and in summer, and if tried out-of-doors in a stinging
+atmosphere, who knows but you could whistle an octave higher and
+clearer?
+
+In the fields only are the sours and bitters of Nature appreciated;
+just as the wood-chopper eats his meal in a sunny glade, in the
+middle of a winter day, with content, basks in a sunny ray there,
+and dreams of summer in a degree of cold which, experienced in a
+chamber, would make a student miserable. They who are at work abroad
+are not cold, but rather it is they who sit shivering in houses. As
+with temperatures, so with flavors; as with cold and heat, so with
+sour and sweet. This natural raciness, the sours and bitters which
+the diseased palate refuses, are the true condiments.
+
+Let your condiments be in the condition of your senses. To
+appreciate the flavor of these wild apples requires vigorous and
+healthy senses, papillae [Footnote: A Latin word, accent on the
+second syllable, meaning here the rough surface of the tongue and
+palate.] firm and erect on the tongue and palate, not easily
+flattened and tamed.
+
+From my experience with wild apples, I can understand that there may
+be reason for a savage's preferring many kinds of food which the
+civilized man rejects. The former has the palate of an outdoor man.
+It takes a savage or wild taste to appreciate a wild fruit.
+
+What a healthy out-of-door appetite it takes to relish the apple of
+life, the apple of the world, then!
+
+    "Nor is it every apple I desire,
+       Nor that which pleases every palate best;
+    'T is not the lasting Deuxan I require,
+       Nor yet the red-cheeked Greening I request,
+     Nor that which first beshrewed the name of wife,
+     Nor that whose beauty caused the golden strife:
+     No, no! bring me an apple from the tree of life."
+
+So there is one thought for the field, another for the house. I
+would have my thoughts, like wild apples, to be food for walkers,
+and will not warrant them to be palatable, if tasted in the house.
+
+
+
+
+
+THEIR BEAUTY.
+
+
+
+
+Almost all wild apples are handsome. They cannot be too gnarly and
+crabbed and rusty to look at. The gnarliest will have some redeeming
+traits even to the eye. You will discover some evening redness
+dashed or sprinkled on some protuberance or in some cavity. It is
+rare that the summer lets an apple go without streaking or spotting
+it on some part of its sphere. It will have some red stains,
+commemorating the mornings and evenings it has witnessed; some dark
+and rusty blotches, in memory of the clouds and foggy, mildewy days
+that have passed over it; and a spacious field of green reflecting
+the general face of Nature,--green even as the fields; or a yellow
+ground, which implies a milder flavor,--yellow as the harvest, or
+russet as the hills.
+
+Apples, these I mean, unspeakably fair,--apples not of Discord, but
+Concord! Yet not so rare but that the homeliest may have a share.
+Painted by the frosts, some a uniform clear bright yellow, or red,
+or crimson, as if their spheres had regularly revolved, and enjoyed
+the influence of the sun on all sides alike,--some with the faintest
+pink blush imaginable,--some brindled with deep red streaks like a
+cow, or with hundreds of fine blood-red rays running regularly from
+the stem-dimple to the blossom-end, like meridional lines, on a
+straw-colored ground,--some touched with a greenish rust, like a
+fine lichen, here and there, with crimson blotches or eyes more or
+less confluent and fiery when wet,--and others gnarly, and freckled
+or peppered all over on the stem side with fine crimson spots on a
+white ground, as if accidentally sprinkled from the brush of Him who
+paints the autumn leaves. Others, again, are sometimes red inside,
+perfused with a beautiful blush, fairy food, too beautiful to eat,--
+apple of the Hesperides, apple of the evening sky! But like shells
+and pebbles on the sea-shore, they must be seen as they sparkle amid
+the withering leaves in some dell in the woods, in the autumnal air,
+or as they lie in the wet grass, and not when they have wilted and
+faded in the house.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE NAMING OF THEM.
+
+
+
+
+It would be a pleasant pastime to find suitable names for the
+hundred varieties which go to a single heap at the cider-mill. Would
+it not tax a man's invention,--no one to be named after a man, and
+all in the lingua vernacula?[Footnote: Lingua vernac'ula, common
+speech.] Who shall stand god-father at the christening of the wild
+apples? It would exhaust the Latin and Greek languages, if they were
+used, and make the lingua vernacula flag. We should have to call in
+the sunrise and the sunset, the rainbow and the autumn woods and the
+wild flowers, and the woodpecker and the purple finch, and the
+squirrel and the jay and the butterfly, the November traveller and
+the truant boy, to our aid.
+
+In 1836 there were in the garden of the London Horticultural Society
+more than fourteen hundred distinct sorts. But here are species
+which they have not in their catalogue, not to mention the varieties
+which our Crab might yield to cultivation. Let us enumerate a few of
+these. I find myself compelled, after all, to give the Latin names
+of some for the benefit of those who live where English is not
+spoken,--for they are likely to have a world-wide reputation.
+
+There is, first of all, the Wood-Apple (Malus sylvatica); the Blue-
+Jay Apple; the Apple which grows in Dells in the Woods
+(sylvestrivallis), also in Hollows in Pastures (campestrivallis);
+the Apple that grows in an old Cellar-Hole (Malus cellaris); the
+Meadow-Apple; the Partridge-Apple; the Truant's Apple (Cessatoris),
+which no boy will ever go by without knocking off some, however late
+it may be; the Saunterer's Apple,--you must lose yourself before you
+can find the way to that; the Beauty of the Air (Decks Aeris);
+December-Eating; the Frozen-Thawed (gelato-soluta), good only in
+that state; the Concord Apple, possibly the same with the Musketa-
+quidensis; the Assabet Apple; the Brindled Apple; Wine of New
+England; the Chickaree Apple; the Green Apple (Malus viridis);--this
+has many synonyms; in an imperfect state, it is the Cholera
+morbifera aut dysenterifera, puerulis dilectissima; [Footnote:The
+apple that brings the disease of cholera and of dysen-tery, the
+fruit that small boys like best.]--the Apple which Atalanta stopped
+to pick up; the Hedge-Apple (Malus Sepium); the Slug-Apple
+(limacea); the Railroad-Apple, which perhaps came from a core thrown
+out of the cars; the Apple whose Fruit we tasted in our Youth; our
+Particular Apple, not to be found in any catalogue,--Pedestrium
+Solatium; [Footnote: The tramp's comfort.] also the Apple where
+hangs the Forgotten Scythe; Iduna's Apples, and the Apples which
+Loki found in the Wood; [Footnote See p. 172 (Proof readers note:
+paragraph 25)] and a great many more I have on my list, too numerous
+to mention,--all of them good. As Bodaeus exclaims, referring to the
+culti-vated kinds, and adapting Virgil to his case, so I, adapting
+Bodaeus,--
+
+   "Not if I had a hundred tongues, a hundred mouths,
+    An iron voice, could I describe all the forms
+    And reckon up all the names of these wild apples."
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST GLEANING.
+
+
+
+
+By the middle of November the wild apples have lost some of their
+brilliancy, and have chiefly fallen. A great part are decayed on the
+ground, and the sound ones are more palatable than before. The note
+of the chickadee sounds now more distinct, as you wander amid the
+old trees, and the autumnal dandelion is half-closed and tearful.
+But still, if you are a skilful gleaner, you may get many a pocket-
+full even of grafted fruit, long after apples are supposed to be
+gone out-of-doors. I know a Blue-Pearmain tree, growing within the
+edge of a swamp, almost as good as wild. You would not suppose that
+there was any fruit left there, on the first survey, but you must
+look according to system. Those which lie exposed are quite brown
+and rotten now, or perchance a few still show one blooming cheek
+here and there amid the wet leaves. Nevertheless, with experienced
+eyes, I explore amid the bare alders and the huckleberry-bushes and
+the withered sedge, and in the crevices of the rocks, which are full
+of leaves, and pry under the fallen and decaying ferns, which, with
+apple and alder leaves, thickly strew the ground. For I know that
+they lie concealed, fallen into hollows long since and covered up by
+the leaves of the tree itself,--a proper kind of packing. From these
+lurking-places, anywhere within the circumference of the tree, I
+draw forth the fruit, all wet and glossy, maybe nibbled by rabbits
+and hollowed out by crickets and perhaps with a leaf or two cemented
+to it (as Curzon [Footnote: Robert Curzon was a traveller who
+searched for old manuscripts in the monasteries of the Levant. See
+his book, Ancient Monasteries of the East.] an old manuscript from a
+monastery's mouldy cellar), but still with a rich bloom on it, and
+at least as ripe and well kept, if not better than those in barrels,
+more crisp and lively than they. If these resources fail to yield
+anything, I have learned to look between the bases of the suckers
+which spring thickly from some horizontal limb, for now and then one
+lodges there, or in the very midst of an alder-clump, where they are
+covered by leaves, safe from cows which may have smelled them out.
+If I am sharp-set, for I do not refuse the Blue-Pearmain, I fill my
+pockets on each side; and as I retrace my steps in the frosty eve,
+being perhaps four or five miles from home, I eat one first from
+this side, and then from that, to keep my balance.
+
+I learn from Topsell's Gesner, whose authority appears to be
+Albertus, that the following is the way in which the hedgehog
+collects and carries home his apples. He says: "His meat is apples,
+worms, or grapes: when he findeth apples or grapes on the earth, he
+rolleth himself upon them, until he have filled all his prickles,
+and then carrieth them home to his den, never bearing above one in
+his mouth; and if it fortune that one of them fall off by the way,
+he likewise shaketh off all the residue, and walloweth upon them
+afresh, until they be all settled upon his back again. So, forth he
+goeth, making a noise like a cart-wheel; and if he have any young
+ones in his nest, they pull off his load wherewithal he is loaded,
+eating thereof what they please, and laying up the residue for the
+time to come."
+
+
+
+
+
+THE "FROZEN-THAWED" APPLE.
+
+
+
+
+Toward the end of November, though some of the sound ones are yet
+more mellow and perhaps more edible, they have generally, like the
+leaves, lost their beauty, and are beginning to freeze. It is
+finger-cold, and prudent farmers get in their barrelled apples, and
+bring you the apples and cider which they have engaged; for it is
+time to put them into the cellar. Perhaps a few on the ground show
+their red cheeks above the early snow, and occasionally some even
+preserve their color and soundness under the snow throughout the
+winter. But generally at the beginning of the winter they freeze
+hard, and soon, though undecayed, acquire the color of a baked
+apple.
+
+Before the end of December, generally, they experience their first
+thawing. Those which a month ago were sour, crabbed, and quite
+unpalatable to the civilized taste, such at least as were frozen
+while sound, let a warmer sun come to thaw them, for they are
+extremely sensitive to its rays, are found to be filled with a rich,
+sweet cider, better than any bottled cider that I know of, and with
+which I am better acquainted than with wine. All apples are good in
+this state, and your jaws are the cider-press. Others, which have
+more substance, are a sweet and luscious food,--in my opinion of
+more worth than the pine-apples which are imported from the West
+Indies. Those which lately even I tasted only to repent of it,--for
+I am semi-civilized,--which the farmer willingly left on the tree, I
+am now glad to find have the property of hanging on like the leaves
+of the young oaks. It is a way to keep cider sweet without boiling.
+Let the frost come to freeze them first, solid as stones, and then
+the rain or a warm winter day to thaw them, and they will seem to
+have borrowed a flavor from heaven through the medium of the air in
+which they hang. Or perchance you find, when you get home, that
+those which rattled in your pocket have thawed, and the ice is
+turned to cider. But after the third or fourth freezing and thawing
+they will not be found so good.
+
+What are the imported half-ripe fruits of the torrid South to this
+fruit matured by the cold of the frigid North? These are those
+crabbed apples with which I cheated my companion, and kept a smooth
+face that I might tempt him to eat. Now we both greedily fill our
+pockets with them,--bending to drink the cup and save our lappets
+from the overflowing juice,--and grow more social with their wine.
+Was there one that hung so high and sheltered by the tangled
+branches that our sticks could not dislodge it?
+
+It is a fruit never carried to market, that I am aware of,--quite
+distinct from the apple of the markets, as from dried apple and
+cider,--and it is not every winter that produces it in perfection.
+
+"Hear this, ye old men, and give ear, all ye in-habitants of the
+land! Hath this been in your days, or even in the days of your
+fathers? . . .
+
+"That which the palmer-worm hath left hath the locust eaten; and
+that which the locust hath left hath the canker-worm eaten; and that
+which the canker-worm hath left hath the caterpillar eaten.
+
+"Awake, ye drunkards, and weep! and howl, all ye drinkers of wine,
+because of the new wine! for it is cut off from your mouth.
+
+"For a nation is come up upon my land, strong, and without number,
+whose teeth are the teeth of a lion, and he hath the cheek-teeth of
+a great lion.
+
+"He hath laid my vine waste, and barked my fig-tree; he hath made
+it clean bare, and cast it away; the branches thereof are made
+white. . . .
+
+"Be ye ashamed, O ye husbandmen! howl, O ye vine-dressers! . . .
+
+"The vine is dried up, and the fig-tree languisheth; the
+pomegranate-tree, the palm tree also, and the apple-tree, even all
+the trees of the field, are withered: because joy is withered away
+from the sons of men." [Footnote: Joel, chapter i., verses 1-12.]
+
+
+End of The Project Gutenberg Etext of Wild Apples
+by Henry David Thoreau
+
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